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Hanfu - Wikipedia
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id="toc-Shang_dynasty,_2nd_millennium_BCE" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Shang_dynasty,_2nd_millennium_BCE"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.1</span> <span>Shang dynasty, 2nd millennium BCE</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Shang_dynasty,_2nd_millennium_BCE-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Zhou_dynasty,_1046_-_256_BCE" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Zhou_dynasty,_1046_-_256_BCE"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.2</span> <span>Zhou dynasty, 1046 - 256 BCE</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Zhou_dynasty,_1046_-_256_BCE-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Spring_and_Autumn_period,_Warring_States_period" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Spring_and_Autumn_period,_Warring_States_period"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.3</span> <span>Spring and Autumn period, Warring States period</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Spring_and_Autumn_period,_Warring_States_period-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Qin_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Qin_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.4</span> <span>Qin dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Qin_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Han_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Han_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.5</span> <span>Han dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Han_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Three_Kingdoms,_Jin_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Three_Kingdoms,_Jin_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.6</span> <span>Three Kingdoms, Jin dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Three_Kingdoms,_Jin_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Sixteen_Kingdoms,_Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Sixteen_Kingdoms,_Northern_and_Southern_dynasties"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.7</span> <span>Sixteen Kingdoms, Northern and Southern dynasties</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Sixteen_Kingdoms,_Northern_and_Southern_dynasties-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Sui,_Tang,_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Sui,_Tang,_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.8</span> <span>Sui, Tang, Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Sui,_Tang,_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Sui_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Sui_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.8.1</span> <span>Sui dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Sui_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Tang_dynasty_and_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Tang_dynasty_and_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.8.2</span> <span>Tang dynasty and Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Tang_dynasty_and_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Song_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Song_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.9</span> <span>Song dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Song_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Liao,_Western_Xia,_and_Jin_dynasties" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Liao,_Western_Xia,_and_Jin_dynasties"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.10</span> <span>Liao, Western Xia, and Jin dynasties</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Liao,_Western_Xia,_and_Jin_dynasties-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Liao_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Liao_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.10.1</span> <span>Liao dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Liao_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Jin_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Jin_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.10.2</span> <span>Jin dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Jin_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Western_Xia" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Western_Xia"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.10.3</span> <span>Western Xia</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Western_Xia-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Yuan_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Yuan_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.11</span> <span>Yuan dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Yuan_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Ming_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Ming_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.12</span> <span>Ming dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Ming_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Ban_of_hufu,_return_to_hanfu,_and_cultural_integration" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Ban_of_hufu,_return_to_hanfu,_and_cultural_integration"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.12.1</span> <span>Ban of hufu, return to hanfu, and cultural integration</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Ban_of_hufu,_return_to_hanfu,_and_cultural_integration-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Establishing_new_dress_regulations" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Establishing_new_dress_regulations"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.12.2</span> <span>Establishing new dress regulations</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Establishing_new_dress_regulations-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Qing_dynasty" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Qing_dynasty"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13</span> <span>Qing dynasty</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Qing_dynasty-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Development_of_Qing_imperial_court_clothing" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Development_of_Qing_imperial_court_clothing"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.1</span> <span>Development of Qing imperial court clothing</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Development_of_Qing_imperial_court_clothing-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Clothing_reform_by_Qianlong" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Clothing_reform_by_Qianlong"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.1.1</span> <span>Clothing reform by Qianlong</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Clothing_reform_by_Qianlong-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Ban_of_Chinese_clothing_and_hairstyle" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Ban_of_Chinese_clothing_and_hairstyle"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.2</span> <span>Ban of Chinese clothing and hairstyle</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Ban_of_Chinese_clothing_and_hairstyle-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Tifayifu_exemptions" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Tifayifu_exemptions"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3</span> <span>Tifayifu exemptions</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Tifayifu_exemptions-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Rebellion_and_resistance_to_Qing" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Rebellion_and_resistance_to_Qing"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.1</span> <span>Rebellion and resistance to Qing</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Rebellion_and_resistance_to_Qing-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Taoist_and_buddhist_priests/monks" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Taoist_and_buddhist_priests/monks"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.2</span> <span>Taoist and buddhist priests/monks</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Taoist_and_buddhist_priests/monks-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Burial_practices" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Burial_practices"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.3</span> <span>Burial practices</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Burial_practices-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Chinese_opera_and_drama_performers" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Chinese_opera_and_drama_performers"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.4</span> <span>Chinese opera and drama performers</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Chinese_opera_and_drama_performers-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Women's_clothing" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Women's_clothing"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.5</span> <span>Women's clothing</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Women's_clothing-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Children" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-4"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Children"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1.13.3.6</span> <span>Children</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Children-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-20th_century" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#20th_century"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2</span> <span>20th century</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-20th_century-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle 20th century subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-20th_century-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Hanfu_in_popular_media_and_opera_(20th_century_–_present)" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Hanfu_in_popular_media_and_opera_(20th_century_–_present)"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.1</span> <span>Hanfu in popular media and opera (20th century – present)</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Hanfu_in_popular_media_and_opera_(20th_century_–_present)-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Hanfu_in_modern_Taoism_(20th_century_–_present)" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Hanfu_in_modern_Taoism_(20th_century_–_present)"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.2</span> <span>Hanfu in modern Taoism (20th century – present)</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Hanfu_in_modern_Taoism_(20th_century_–_present)-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-21st_century" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#21st_century"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3</span> <span>21st century</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-21st_century-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle 21st century subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-21st_century-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Hanfu_Movement" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Hanfu_Movement"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.1</span> <span>Hanfu Movement</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Hanfu_Movement-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Growing_popularity_and_market_trend" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Growing_popularity_and_market_trend"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.2</span> <span>Growing popularity and market trend</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Growing_popularity_and_market_trend-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Modern_hanfu" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Modern_hanfu"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.3</span> <span>Modern hanfu</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Modern_hanfu-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Characteristics_and_design" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-3"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Characteristics_and_design"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.3.1</span> <span>Characteristics and design</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Characteristics_and_design-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Garments" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Garments"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4</span> <span>Garments</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Garments-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Footwear" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Footwear"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">5</span> <span>Footwear</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Footwear-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Headwear_and_hairstyles" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Headwear_and_hairstyles"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6</span> <span>Headwear and hairstyles</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Headwear_and_hairstyles-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Accessories" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Accessories"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">7</span> <span>Accessories</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Accessories-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Influences_and_derivatives" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Influences_and_derivatives"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">8</span> <span>Influences and derivatives</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Influences_and_derivatives-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Gallery" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Gallery"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">9</span> <span>Gallery</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Gallery-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-See_also" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#See_also"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">10</span> <span>See also</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-See_also-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle See also subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-See_also-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Sub-categories_of_hanfu" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Sub-categories_of_hanfu"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">10.1</span> <span>Sub-categories of hanfu</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Sub-categories_of_hanfu-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Traditional_Chinese_clothing_and_culture" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Traditional_Chinese_clothing_and_culture"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">10.2</span> <span>Traditional Chinese clothing and culture</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Traditional_Chinese_clothing_and_culture-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Notes" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Notes"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">11</span> <span>Notes</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Notes-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-References" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#References"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">12</span> <span>References</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-References-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Bibliography" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Bibliography"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">13</span> <span>Bibliography</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Bibliography-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-External_links" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#External_links"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">14</span> <span>External links</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-External_links-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div class="mw-content-container"> <main id="content" class="mw-body"> <header class="mw-body-header vector-page-titlebar"> <nav aria-label="Contents" class="vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown vector-page-titlebar-toc vector-button-flush-left" title="Table of Contents" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Toggle the table of contents" > <label id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-label" for="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-listBullet mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-listBullet"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Toggle the table of contents</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading mw-first-heading"><i>Hanfu</i></h1> <div id="p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown mw-portlet mw-portlet-lang" > <input type="checkbox" id="p-lang-btn-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox mw-interlanguage-selector" aria-label="Go to an article in another language. Available in 29 languages" > <label id="p-lang-btn-label" for="p-lang-btn-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--action-progressive mw-portlet-lang-heading-29" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-language-progressive mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-language-progressive"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">29 languages</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ar mw-list-item"><a href="https://ar.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D9%87%D8%A7%D9%86%D9%81%D9%88" title="هانفو – Arabic" lang="ar" hreflang="ar" data-title="هانفو" data-language-autonym="العربية" data-language-local-name="Arabic" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>العربية</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-zh-min-nan mw-list-item"><a href="https://zh-min-nan.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A0n-ho%CC%8Dk" title="Hàn-ho̍k – Minnan" lang="nan" hreflang="nan" data-title="Hàn-ho̍k" data-language-autonym="閩南語 / Bân-lâm-gú" data-language-local-name="Minnan" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>閩南語 / Bân-lâm-gú</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-bcl mw-list-item"><a href="https://bcl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Central Bikol" lang="bcl" hreflang="bcl" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Bikol Central" data-language-local-name="Central Bikol" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Bikol Central</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ca mw-list-item"><a href="https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Catalan" lang="ca" hreflang="ca" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Català" data-language-local-name="Catalan" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Català</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-de mw-list-item"><a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – German" lang="de" hreflang="de" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Deutsch" data-language-local-name="German" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Deutsch</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-es mw-list-item"><a href="https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Spanish" lang="es" hreflang="es" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Español" data-language-local-name="Spanish" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Español</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-eo mw-list-item"><a href="https://eo.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Esperanto" lang="eo" hreflang="eo" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Esperanto" data-language-local-name="Esperanto" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Esperanto</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-fr mw-list-item"><a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – French" lang="fr" hreflang="fr" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Français" data-language-local-name="French" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Français</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-gan mw-list-item"><a href="https://gan.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D" title="漢服 – Gan" lang="gan" hreflang="gan" data-title="漢服" data-language-autonym="贛語" data-language-local-name="Gan" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>贛語</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ko mw-list-item"><a href="https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%ED%95%9C%ED%91%B8" title="한푸 – Korean" lang="ko" hreflang="ko" data-title="한푸" data-language-autonym="한국어" data-language-local-name="Korean" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>한국어</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-hy mw-list-item"><a href="https://hy.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D5%80%D5%A1%D5%B6%D6%86%D5%B8%D6%82" title="Հանֆու – Armenian" lang="hy" hreflang="hy" data-title="Հանֆու" data-language-autonym="Հայերեն" data-language-local-name="Armenian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Հայերեն</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-id mw-list-item"><a href="https://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Indonesian" lang="id" hreflang="id" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Bahasa Indonesia" data-language-local-name="Indonesian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Bahasa Indonesia</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-it mw-list-item"><a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Italian" lang="it" hreflang="it" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Italiano" data-language-local-name="Italian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Italiano</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-hu mw-list-item"><a href="https://hu.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Hungarian" lang="hu" hreflang="hu" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Magyar" data-language-local-name="Hungarian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Magyar</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ms mw-list-item"><a href="https://ms.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Malay" lang="ms" hreflang="ms" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Bahasa Melayu" data-language-local-name="Malay" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Bahasa Melayu</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ja mw-list-item"><a href="https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D" title="漢服 – Japanese" lang="ja" hreflang="ja" data-title="漢服" data-language-autonym="日本語" data-language-local-name="Japanese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>日本語</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-no mw-list-item"><a href="https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Norwegian Bokmål" lang="nb" hreflang="nb" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Norsk bokmål" data-language-local-name="Norwegian Bokmål" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Norsk bokmål</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-nn mw-list-item"><a href="https://nn.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Norwegian Nynorsk" lang="nn" hreflang="nn" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Norsk nynorsk" data-language-local-name="Norwegian Nynorsk" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Norsk nynorsk</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-pt mw-list-item"><a href="https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Portuguese" lang="pt" hreflang="pt" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Português" data-language-local-name="Portuguese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Português</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ru mw-list-item"><a href="https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A5%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%84%D1%83" title="Ханьфу – Russian" lang="ru" hreflang="ru" data-title="Ханьфу" data-language-autonym="Русский" data-language-local-name="Russian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Русский</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-fi mw-list-item"><a href="https://fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Finnish" lang="fi" hreflang="fi" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Suomi" data-language-local-name="Finnish" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Suomi</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-th mw-list-item"><a href="https://th.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9D%E0%B8%B9" title="ฮั่นฝู – Thai" lang="th" hreflang="th" data-title="ฮั่นฝู" data-language-autonym="ไทย" data-language-local-name="Thai" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>ไทย</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-tr mw-list-item"><a href="https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu" title="Hanfu – Turkish" lang="tr" hreflang="tr" data-title="Hanfu" data-language-autonym="Türkçe" data-language-local-name="Turkish" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Türkçe</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-za mw-list-item"><a href="https://za.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buhgun" title="Buhgun – Zhuang" lang="za" hreflang="za" data-title="Buhgun" data-language-autonym="Vahcuengh" data-language-local-name="Zhuang" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Vahcuengh</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-vi mw-list-item"><a href="https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1n_ph%E1%BB%A5c" title="Hán phục – Vietnamese" lang="vi" hreflang="vi" data-title="Hán phục" data-language-autonym="Tiếng Việt" data-language-local-name="Vietnamese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Tiếng Việt</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-zh-classical mw-list-item"><a href="https://zh-classical.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D" title="漢服 – Literary Chinese" lang="lzh" hreflang="lzh" data-title="漢服" data-language-autonym="文言" data-language-local-name="Literary Chinese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>文言</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-wuu mw-list-item"><a href="https://wuu.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B1%89%E6%9C%8D" title="汉服 – Wu" lang="wuu" hreflang="wuu" data-title="汉服" data-language-autonym="吴语" data-language-local-name="Wu" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>吴语</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-zh-yue mw-list-item"><a href="https://zh-yue.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D" title="漢服 – Cantonese" lang="yue" hreflang="yue" data-title="漢服" data-language-autonym="粵語" data-language-local-name="Cantonese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>粵語</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-zh mw-list-item"><a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B1%89%E6%9C%8D" title="汉服 – Chinese" lang="zh" hreflang="zh" data-title="汉服" data-language-autonym="中文" data-language-local-name="Chinese" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>中文</span></a></li> </ul> <div class="after-portlet after-portlet-lang"><span class="wb-langlinks-edit wb-langlinks-link"><a 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</div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-column-end"> <div class="vector-sticky-pinned-container"> <nav class="vector-page-tools-landmark" aria-label="Page tools"> <div id="vector-page-tools-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> </div> </nav> <nav class="vector-appearance-landmark" aria-label="Appearance"> <div id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> <div id="vector-appearance" class="vector-appearance vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-appearance-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-pinned" data-feature-name="appearance-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-appearance" data-pinned-container-id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-appearance-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Appearance</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" 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div.hatnote{padding-left:1.6em;margin-bottom:0.5em}.mw-parser-output .hatnote i{font-style:normal}.mw-parser-output .hatnote+link+.hatnote{margin-top:-0.5em}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .hatnote{display:none!important}}</style><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">This article is about the clothing. For the movement, see <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_Movement" title="Hanfu Movement">Hanfu Movement</a>. For other uses, see <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_(disambiguation)" class="mw-redirect mw-disambig" title="Hanfu (disambiguation)">Hanfu (disambiguation)</a>.</div> <p class="mw-empty-elt"> </p> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti">.mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner{display:flex;flex-direction:column}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow{display:flex;flex-direction:row;clear:left;flex-wrap:wrap;width:100%;box-sizing:border-box}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle{margin:1px;float:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .theader{clear:both;font-weight:bold;text-align:center;align-self:center;background-color:transparent;width:100%}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .thumbcaption{background-color:transparent}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-left{text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-right{text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-center{text-align:center}@media all and (max-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .tmulti .thumbinner{width:100%!important;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:none!important;align-items:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow{justify-content:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle{float:none!important;max-width:100%!important;box-sizing:border-box;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle .thumbcaption{text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow>.thumbcaption{text-align:center}}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner span:not(.skin-invert-image):not(.skin-invert):not(.bg-transparent) img{background-color:white}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner span:not(.skin-invert-image):not(.skin-invert):not(.bg-transparent) img{background-color:white}}</style><div class="thumb tmulti tright"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:392px;max-width:392px"><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:151px;max-width:151px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:182px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Confucius_Family_Relic,_Ming_Dynasty_Aoqun.png" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/de/Confucius_Family_Relic%2C_Ming_Dynasty_Aoqun.png/250px-Confucius_Family_Relic%2C_Ming_Dynasty_Aoqun.png" decoding="async" width="149" height="182" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/de/Confucius_Family_Relic%2C_Ming_Dynasty_Aoqun.png/330px-Confucius_Family_Relic%2C_Ming_Dynasty_Aoqun.png 2x" data-file-width="1188" data-file-height="1454" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center title = Hanfu">Ming <i><a href="/wiki/Aoqun" class="mw-redirect" title="Aoqun">Aoqun</a></i> stored by the <a href="/wiki/Duke_Yansheng" title="Duke Yansheng">House of Confucius</a></div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:237px;max-width:237px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:182px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels,_Detail_1.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg/235px-Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg" decoding="async" width="235" height="182" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg/353px-Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg/470px-Gu_Hongzhong%27s_Night_Revels%2C_Detail_1.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4977" data-file-height="3857" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center title = Hanfu">A section of <i><a href="/wiki/The_Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai" title="The Night Revels of Han Xizai">The Night Revels of Han Xizai</a></i>, 10th century CE.</div></div></div><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:262px;max-width:262px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:173px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_(11865362735).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg/330px-Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="260" height="173" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg/500px-Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg/960px-Five_Dynasties_Relief_of_Musicians_%2811865362735%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4752" data-file-height="3168" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center title = Hanfu">Court musicians in <i><a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">Qixiong Ruqun</a></i>; decorative stone relief, <a href="/wiki/Five_dynasties" class="mw-redirect" title="Five dynasties">Five dynasties</a>.</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:126px;max-width:126px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:173px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wanli-Emperor.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Wanli-Emperor.jpg/124px-Wanli-Emperor.jpg" decoding="async" width="124" height="174" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Wanli-Emperor.jpg/186px-Wanli-Emperor.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Wanli-Emperor.jpg/248px-Wanli-Emperor.jpg 2x" data-file-width="496" data-file-height="695" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center title = Hanfu"><a href="/wiki/Wanli_Emperor" title="Wanli Emperor">Wanli Emperor</a> in <i>Mianfu</i> regalia</div></div></div></div></div> <p><i><b>Hanfu</b></i> (<a href="/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters" title="Simplified Chinese characters">simplified Chinese</a>: <span lang="zh-Hans">汉服</span>; <a href="/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters" title="Traditional Chinese characters">traditional Chinese</a>: <span lang="zh-Hant">漢服</span>; <a href="/wiki/Pinyin" title="Pinyin">pinyin</a>: <i><span lang="zh-Latn">Hànfú</span></i>, lit. "<a href="/wiki/Han_Chinese" title="Han Chinese">Han</a> clothing") are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the <a href="/wiki/Han_Chinese" title="Han Chinese">Han Chinese</a> since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of <i>hanfu</i>, such as the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i></span> (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Aoqun" class="mw-redirect" title="Aoqun">aoqun</a></i></span> (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt), the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">beizi</a></i></span> and the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span>,<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">shanku</a></i></span> (an upper-body garment with <a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku trousers</a>).<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 24">: 24 </span></sup> </p><p>Traditionally, <i>hanfu</i> consists of a <a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu"><i>paofu</i> robe</a>, or a <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)"><i>ru</i> jacket</a> worn as the upper garment with a <a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun"><i>qun</i> skirt</a> commonly worn as the lower garment. In addition to clothing, hanfu also includes several forms of accessories, such as <a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu_headwear" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu headwear">headwear</a>, <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_footwear" title="Hanfu footwear">footwear</a>, <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories#Waist_Ornaments" title="Hanfu accessories">belts</a>, <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories#Jewellery" title="Hanfu accessories">jewellery</a>, <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Yupei" title="Yupei">yupei</a></i></span> and <a href="/wiki/Hand_fan" title="Hand fan">handheld fans</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Nowadays, the hanfu is gaining recognition as the traditional clothing of the Han ethnic group, and has experienced a growing fashion revival among young Han Chinese people in China and in the <a href="/wiki/Overseas_Chinese" title="Overseas Chinese">overseas Chinese</a> diaspora.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>After the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a>, <i>hanfu</i> developed into a variety of styles using fabrics that encompassed a number of complex textile production techniques, particularly with rapid advancements in <a href="/wiki/Sericulture" title="Sericulture">sericulture</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <i>Hanfu</i> has influenced the traditional clothing of many <a href="/wiki/Chinese_cultural_sphere" class="mw-redirect" title="Chinese cultural sphere">neighbouring cultures</a>, including the Korean <a href="/wiki/Hanbok" title="Hanbok">Hanbok</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-7"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> the Japanese <a href="/wiki/Kimono" title="Kimono">kimono</a> (<i><a href="/wiki/Wafuku" class="mw-redirect" title="Wafuku">wafuku</a></i>),<sup id="cite_ref-Benn_8-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Benn-8"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Dalby_9-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Dalby-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> the Ryukyuan <a href="/wiki/Ryusou" title="Ryusou">ryusou</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-10"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>10<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-11"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>11<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and the Vietnamese <a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh" title="Áo giao lĩnh">áo giao lĩnh</a> (<i><a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing" title="Vietnamese clothing">Vietnamese clothing</a></i>).<sup id="cite_ref-《大南實錄・正編・第一紀・世祖實錄》,越南阮朝,國史館_12-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-《大南實錄・正編・第一紀・世祖實錄》,越南阮朝,國史館-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-ReferenceA_13-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ReferenceA-13"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Elements of <i>hanfu</i> design have also influenced <a href="/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion" title="History of Western fashion">Western fashion</a>, especially through <a href="/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion" title="Chinoiserie in fashion">Chinoiserie fashion</a>, due to the popularity of <a href="/wiki/Chinoiserie" title="Chinoiserie">Chinoiserie</a> since the 17th century in <a href="/wiki/Europe" title="Europe">Europe</a> and in the <a href="/wiki/United_States" title="United States">United States</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:132_14-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:132-14"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <meta property="mw:PageProp/toc" /> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="History">History</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section: History"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Woven_silk,_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6a/Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="112" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6a/Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg/330px-Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6a/Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg/500px-Woven_silk%2C_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1116" data-file-height="566" /></a><figcaption>Han-era silk piece from the <a href="/wiki/Mawangdui" title="Mawangdui">Mawangdui</a> tomb, 2nd century BCE</figcaption></figure> <p><i>Hanfu</i> comprises all traditional clothing classifications of the Han Chinese with a recorded history of more than three millennia.<sup id="cite_ref-Evenson_15-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Evenson-15"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-16"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>16<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Each succeeding dynasty produced their own distinctive dress codes, reflecting the socio-cultural environment of the times.<sup id="cite_ref-:45_17-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:45-17"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:76_18-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:76-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Clothing made of silk was initially used for decorative and ceremonial purposes. The cultivation of silk, however, ushered the development of <a href="/wiki/Weaving" title="Weaving">weaving</a>, and by the time of the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a>, <a href="/wiki/Brocade" title="Brocade">brocade</a>, <a href="/wiki/Damask" title="Damask">damask</a>, <a href="/wiki/Satin" title="Satin">satin</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Gauze" title="Gauze">gauze</a> had been developed.<sup id="cite_ref-:56_19-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:56-19"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Yellowemperor.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Yellowemperor.jpg/220px-Yellowemperor.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="297" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Yellowemperor.jpg/330px-Yellowemperor.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Yellowemperor.jpg/440px-Yellowemperor.jpg 2x" data-file-width="556" data-file-height="750" /></a><figcaption>Han dynasty tomb wall carving depicting the legendary <a href="/wiki/Yellow_Emperor" title="Yellow Emperor">Yellow Emperor</a>, who was said to have lived in the <a href="/wiki/Longshan_culture" title="Longshan culture">3rd millennium BCE</a>.</figcaption></figure> <p>From the beginning of its history, <i>hanfu</i> (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk and the art of <a href="/wiki/Sericulture" title="Sericulture">sericulture</a>, supposedly discovered by the <a href="/wiki/Yellow_Emperor" title="Yellow Emperor">Yellow Emperor</a>'s consort <a href="/wiki/Leizu" title="Leizu">Leizu</a>, who was also revered as the Goddess of sericulture.<sup id="cite_ref-:118_20-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:118-20"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-21"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> There is even a saying in the <a href="/wiki/Book_of_Change" class="mw-redirect" title="Book of Change">Book of Change</a>, which says that:<sup id="cite_ref-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-22"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>22<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1244412712">.mw-parser-output .templatequote{overflow:hidden;margin:1em 0;padding:0 32px}.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{line-height:1.5em;text-align:left;margin-top:0}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{padding-left:1.6em}}</style><blockquote class="templatequote"><p>"Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their upper and lower garments [衣裳; <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">yī cháng</a>] (as patterns to the people), and good order was secured all under heaven".</p></blockquote> <p><i>Hanfu</i> had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the <a href="/wiki/Shang_dynasty" title="Shang dynasty">Shang dynasty</a>. Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simpler in cut than later examples. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates the body's natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist.<sup class="noprint Inline-Template Template-Fact" style="white-space:nowrap;">[<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed" title="Wikipedia:Citation needed"><span title="This claim needs references to reliable sources. (March 2022)">citation needed</span></a></i>]</sup> </p><p>From ancient times, the <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)"><i>ru</i> upper garments</a> of <i>hanfu</i> were typically worn wrapped over the front, in a style known as <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Jiaoling_youren" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">jiaoling youren</a></i></span>; the left side covering the right side and extend to the wearer's right waist. Initially, the style was used because of the habit of the right-handed wearer to wrap the right side first. Later, the people of the <a href="/wiki/Zhongyuan" title="Zhongyuan">Central Chinese Plain</a> discouraged left-handedness, considering it unnatural, barbarian, uncivilized, and unfortunate. The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Youren/_right_lapel" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">youren</a></i></span> collar follows the <a href="/wiki/Yin_and_yang" title="Yin and yang">yin and yang theory</a>, wherein the left lapel represents the yang (which symbolizes life) suppresses the yin (which symbolizes death); therefore, <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">youren</i></span> is the clothing of the living while if it is worn in the opposite way in a style called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Zuoren/_left_lapel" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">zuoren</a></i></span>, the clothing then becomes burial clothing and is therefore considered a taboo.<sup id="cite_ref-:76_18-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:76-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Zuoren</i></span> is also used by some minority ethnic groups in China.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:80_24-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:80-24"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Many factors have contributed to the fashion of <a href="/wiki/History_of_China" title="History of China">ancient China</a>: beliefs, religions, wars, and the emperor's personal liking.<sup id="cite_ref-:54_25-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:54-25"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Following the <a href="/wiki/Qin_dynasty" title="Qin dynasty">Qin dynasty</a>, colours used in the <a href="/wiki/Sumptuary_law" title="Sumptuary law">sumptuary laws</a> of the Han Chinese held symbolic meaning, based on the Taoist <a href="/wiki/Wuxing_(Chinese_philosophy)" title="Wuxing (Chinese philosophy)">Five Elements Theory</a> and the yin and yang theory; each dynasty favoured certain colours.<sup id="cite_ref-26" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-26"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural clothing, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and <a href="/wiki/Central_Asia" title="Central Asia">Central Asian</a> cultures to the west by way of the <a href="/wiki/Silk_Road" title="Silk Road">Silk Road</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-27"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 44–46">: 44–46 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-bbc.co.uk_29-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-bbc.co.uk-29"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 312">: 312 </span></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Shang_dynasty,_2nd_millennium_BCE"><span id="Shang_dynasty.2C_2nd_millennium_BCE"></span>Shang dynasty, 2nd millennium BCE</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section: Shang dynasty, 2nd millennium BCE"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tright"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:292px;max-width:292px"><div class="trow"><div class="theader">Hanfu in Shang dynasty</div></div><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:125px;max-width:125px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:262px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Statuette_of_a_Standing_Dignitary,_China,_Shang_dynasty,_12th-11th_century_BC,_nephrite_-_Arthur_M._Sackler_Museum,_Harvard_University_-_DSC00742.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/00/Statuette_of_a_Standing_Dignitary%2C_China%2C_Shang_dynasty%2C_12th-11th_century_BC%2C_nephrite_-_Arthur_M._Sackler_Museum%2C_Harvard_University_-_DSC00742.jpg/250px-Statuette_of_a_Standing_Dignitary%2C_China%2C_Shang_dynasty%2C_12th-11th_century_BC%2C_nephrite_-_Arthur_M._Sackler_Museum%2C_Harvard_University_-_DSC00742.jpg" decoding="async" width="123" height="263" class="mw-file-element" data-file-width="1259" data-file-height="2694" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center">A standing dignitary wearing <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">yichang</a> and <a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">bixi</a>, 12th century BCE</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:163px;max-width:163px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:262px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Shang_Jade_Human_Figure.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7b/Shang_Jade_Human_Figure.jpg/250px-Shang_Jade_Human_Figure.jpg" decoding="async" width="161" height="262" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7b/Shang_Jade_Human_Figure.jpg/330px-Shang_Jade_Human_Figure.jpg 2x" data-file-width="800" data-file-height="1301" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center">Jade figurine with sartorial details; <a href="/wiki/Fu_Hao" title="Fu Hao">Fu Hao</a> mausoleum, <a href="/wiki/2nd_millennium_BC" title="2nd millennium BC">2nd millennium BC</a></div></div></div></div></div> <p>In China, a systemic structure of clothing was first developed during the <a href="/wiki/Shang_dynasty" title="Shang dynasty">Shang dynasty</a>, where colours, designs, and rules governing use was implemented across the social strata.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Only primary colours (i.e. red, blue, and yellow) and green were used due to the degree of technology at the time.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_31-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The rudiments of <i>hanfu</i> was developed in this period; the combination of upper and lower garments, called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">yichang</a></i></span>, was usually worn with a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">bixi</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:102_32-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:102-32"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>31<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:0_31-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Jiaoling_youren" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">jiaoling youren</a> <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">yi</a></i></span> a style of upper garment, started to be worn during this period.<sup id="cite_ref-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-34"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>33<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In winter, padded jackets were worn.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_31-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i></span> or <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">jingyi</a></i></span></i>, which were knee-high trousers tied onto the calves but left the thighs exposed, were worn under the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun">chang</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During this period, this clothing style was unisex.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_31-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Only rich people wore silk; poor people continued to wear loose shirts and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i></span> made of <a href="/wiki/Hemp" title="Hemp">hemp</a> or <a href="/wiki/Ramie" title="Ramie">ramie</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_31-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> An example of a Shang dynasty attire can be seen on an anthropomorphic jade figurine excavated from the <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Fu_Hao" title="Tomb of Fu Hao">Tomb of Fu Hao</a> in <a href="/wiki/Anyang" title="Anyang">Anyang</a>, which shows a person wearing a long narrow-sleeved <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">yi</i></span> with a wide band covering around waist, and a skirt underneath.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-37"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>36<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-38" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-38"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>37<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> This <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">yichang</i></span> attire appears to have been designed for the aristocratic class.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Zhou_dynasty,_1046_-_256_BCE"><span id="Zhou_dynasty.2C_1046_-_256_BCE"></span>Zhou dynasty, 1046 - 256 BCE</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section: Zhou dynasty, 1046 - 256 BCE"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tleft"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:392px;max-width:392px"><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:202px;max-width:202px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:275px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Changshadragon.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/20/Changshadragon.jpg/250px-Changshadragon.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="275" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/20/Changshadragon.jpg/330px-Changshadragon.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/20/Changshadragon.jpg/500px-Changshadragon.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1300" data-file-height="1789" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Eastern Zhou <a href="/wiki/Silk_painting_depicting_a_man_riding_a_dragon" title="Silk painting depicting a man riding a dragon">silk painting featuring a man wearing <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> and a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">guan</i></span> with a dragon.</a></div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:186px;max-width:186px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:275px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica,_Chu_State_(10162703463).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg/184px-Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="184" height="276" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg/276px-Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg/368px-Warring_States_Silk_Painting_Replica%2C_Chu_State_%2810162703463%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3168" data-file-height="4752" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Woman wearing a shenyi (side view), from the Silk painting with female figure, dragon and phoenix patterns</div></div></div></div></div> <p>Following the Shang dynasty, the <a href="/wiki/Western_Zhou_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Western Zhou dynasty">Western Zhou dynasty</a> established new system of etiquette and rites on clothing, placing new ceremonial, political and cultural significance on clothing. This tied fashion to the rites and culture of its people, which became the basis for the <a href="/wiki/Li_(Confucianism)" title="Li (Confucianism)"><i>Li</i> (禮) orthodoxy</a> of <a href="/wiki/Confucianism" title="Confucianism">Confucianism</a> that dominated <a href="/wiki/Sinosphere" title="Sinosphere">East Asian culture</a> for 2000 years. In reference to this, <a href="/wiki/Ruist" class="mw-redirect" title="Ruist">Ruist</a> writings such as <a href="/wiki/Kong_Yingda" title="Kong Yingda">Kong Yingda</a>'s "True Meaning of <i><a href="/wiki/Spring_and_Autumn_Annals" title="Spring and Autumn Annals">Chunqiu</a>- <a href="/wiki/Zuo_zhuan" class="mw-redirect" title="Zuo zhuan">Zuo zhuan</a></i>" suggest that the term <i><a href="/wiki/Huaxia" title="Huaxia">huaxia</a></i> (華夏) referred to both the ceremonial etiquettes of the central states and the clothing that those states' denizens wore.<sup id="cite_ref-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-39"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>38<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-40"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>39<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-41" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-41"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>40<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-42" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-42"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>41<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Principle of this practice was the standardization of a garment style called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Shangyi Xiachang</i></span> (上衣下裳, "<a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">upper top</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun">lower garnment</a>", meaning separating the upper and lower garments into two items).<sup id="cite_ref-43" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-43"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>42<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-44" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-44"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>43<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Though the fashion gradually evolved and was replaced by styles such as <i><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i>, the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Shangyi Xiachang</i></span> still maintained as the basis for formal and ceremonial wear such as the <i><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a></i> and <i><a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9C%9D%E6%9C%8D" class="extiw" title="zh:朝服">chaofu</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-45" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-45"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>44<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p> This created a strict hierarchical society that used clothing as a status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one's rank influenced the ornateness of a costume. Costumes would also be distinguished by their ceremonial usage. This became the antecedent for the complex system of clothing for all succeeding eras and dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup> Importance were hence placed on items such as the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i></span> and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a></i></span>, as recorded in <a href="/wiki/Rites_of_Zhou" title="Rites of Zhou">Rites of Zhou</a> and <a href="/wiki/Book_of_Rites" title="Book of Rites">Book of Rites</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-47" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-47"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>46<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">guan</i></span> was used to distinguish social ranks; the use of <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">guan</i></span></i> was one of the distinctive features of the Hanfu system, and men could only wear it after the Adulthood ceremony known as <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Guan Li</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup> Other markers of status included the fabric materials, the shape, size, colour of the clothing, the decorative pattern, the length of a skirt, the wideness of a sleeve, and the degree of ornamentation.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup> There were strict regulations on the clothing of the emperor, feudal dukes, senior officials, soldiers, ancestor worshippers, brides, and mourners.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:94_48-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:94-48"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>47<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Chinese_silk,_4th_Century_BC.JPG" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3b/Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG/250px-Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG" decoding="async" width="220" height="232" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3b/Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG/330px-Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3b/Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG/500px-Chinese_silk%2C_4th_Century_BC.JPG 2x" data-file-width="608" data-file-height="640" /></a><figcaption>4th Century BCE silk gauze; the <a href="/wiki/Sericulture" title="Sericulture">sericultural</a> industry of the Zhou Dynasty was highly advanced.</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg/220px-Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="330" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg/330px-Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg/440px-Man_in_early_hanfu_Western_Zhou_Bronze_Chariot_Ornament2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a><figcaption>Western Zhou (c. 9th Century BCE) bronze chariot ornament of a man wearing a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">juling</i></span> (矩领, "square collar") robe and an early type of <i>guan</i>.</figcaption></figure> <p>The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a></i></span> was the most distinguished type of formal dress, worn for worshipping and memorial ceremonies; it had a complex structure and there were various decorations which bore symbolic meaning; there were six ranked types of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">mianfu</i></span> which were worn by emperors, princes and officials according to their titles.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The emperors also wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Pien_Fu" class="mw-redirect" title="Pien Fu">bianfu</a></i></span> (only second to <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">mianfu</i></span>) when meeting with officials or if they had to work on official business.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> When the emperor were not at court, they wore the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Xuanduan" title="Xuanduan">xuanduan</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:81_49-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:81-49"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>48<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Xuanduan</i></span> could also worn by princes during sacrificial occasions and by scholars who would go pay respect to their parents in the morning.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">mianfu</i></span>, <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">bianfu</i></span>, and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">xuanduan</i></span> all consisted of four separate parts: a skirt underneath, a robe in the middle, a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">bixi</a></i></span> on top, and a long cloth belt <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories#Belts,_girdles,_and_sashes" title="Hanfu accessories">dadai</a></i></span> (<a href="/wiki/Chinese_language" title="Chinese language">Chinese</a>: <span lang="zh">大带</span>).<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Similarly to the Western Zhou dynasty, the dress code of the early <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Zhou_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Zhou dynasty">Eastern Zhou dynasty</a> was governed by strict rules which was used maintain social order and to distinguish social class.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In addition to these class-oriented developments, the daily <i>hanfu</i> in this period became slightly looser while maintaining the basic form the Shang dynasty<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> in the wearing of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">yichang</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:95_50-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:95-50"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Broad and narrow sleeves both co-existed. The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">yi</i></span> was closed with a sash which was tied around the waist; jade decorations were sometimes hung from the sash.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The length of the skirts and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i></span> could vary from knee-length to ground-length.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Common people in the Zhou dynasty, including the <a href="/wiki/Ethnic_minorities_in_China" title="Ethnic minorities in China">minority groups</a> in Southwest China, wore <a href="/wiki/Hemp" title="Hemp">hemp</a>-based clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:56_19-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:56-19"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The Zhou dynasty also formalized women's wearing of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">ji</a></i></span> with a coming-of-age ceremony called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Ji Li</a></i></span>, which was performed after a girl was engaged and the wearing of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">ji</i></span> showed a girl was already promised to a marriage.<sup id="cite_ref-52" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-52"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Men could also wear <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">ji</i></span> alone, however more commonly men wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">ji</i></span> with the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i></span> to fix the headwear.<sup id="cite_ref-53" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-53"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>52<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Spring_and_Autumn_period,_Warring_States_period"><span id="Spring_and_Autumn_period.2C_Warring_States_period"></span>Spring and Autumn period, Warring States period</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section: Spring and Autumn period, Warring States period"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/Hufu" title="Hufu">Hufu</a>, <a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">Shanku</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">Paofu</a></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg/175px-%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg" decoding="async" width="175" height="219" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg/263px-%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg/350px-%E6%88%B0%E5%9C%8B_%E9%9D%92%E9%8A%85%E9%A6%AD%E6%89%8B-Figure_of_a_Charioteer_MET_DT7095.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2978" data-file-height="3722" /></a><figcaption>Charioteer figure wearing a short <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">juling</i></span></i> <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a></i></span>, <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Zhou" title="Eastern Zhou">Eastern Zhou dynasty</a>.</figcaption></figure> <p>During the <a href="/wiki/Spring_and_Autumn_period" title="Spring and Autumn period">Spring and Autumn period</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Warring_States_period" title="Warring States period">Warring States period</a>, numerous schools of thought emerged in China, including <a href="/wiki/Confucianism" title="Confucianism">Confucianism</a>; those different schools of thoughts naturally influenced the development of the clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Moreover, due to the frequent wars occurring during the Warring States period, various etiquette were slowly revoked.<sup id="cite_ref-chinastyle.cn_54-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-chinastyle.cn-54"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>53<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Zhou" title="Eastern Zhou">Eastern Zhou dynasty</a> dress code started to erode by the middle of Warring States period.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Later, many regions decided not to follow the system of Zhou dynasty; the clothing during this period were differentiated among the seven major states (i.e. the states of <a href="/wiki/Chu_(state)" title="Chu (state)">Chu</a>, <a href="/wiki/Han_(Warring_States)" title="Han (Warring States)">Han</a>, <a href="/wiki/Qin_(state)" title="Qin (state)">Qin</a>, <a href="/wiki/Wei_(state)" title="Wei (state)">Wei</a>, <a href="/wiki/Yan_(state)" title="Yan (state)">Yan</a>, <a href="/wiki/Qi_(state)" title="Qi (state)">Qi</a> and <a href="/wiki/Zhao_(state)" title="Zhao (state)">Zhao</a>).<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-chinastyle.cn_54-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-chinastyle.cn-54"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>53<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Moreover, the year 307 B.C. also marked an important year with the first reform of the military uniform implemented by <a href="/wiki/King_Wuling_of_Zhao" title="King Wuling of Zhao">King Wuling of Zhao</a>. This reform, commonly referred to as <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Hufu#Hufuqishe" title="Hufu">Hufuqishe</a></i></span>, required all Zhao soldiers to wear the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Hufu" title="Hufu">Hufu</a></i></span>-style uniforms of the <a href="/wiki/Donghu_people" title="Donghu people">Donghu</a>, Linhu and Loufan people in battle to facilitate fighting capability.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 257">: 257 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">hedangku</a></i></span> with a loose rise was then introduced.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-56" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-56"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>55<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tleft"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:242px;max-width:242px"><div class="trow"><div class="theader">Ruqun</div></div><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:107px;max-width:107px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:157px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Two_Tone_Set-bells_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng_(10166194704).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Two_Tone_Set-bells_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng_%2810166194704%29.jpg/120px-Two_Tone_Set-bells_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng_%2810166194704%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="105" height="158" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Two_Tone_Set-bells_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng_%2810166194704%29.jpg/250px-Two_Tone_Set-bells_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng_%2810166194704%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3168" data-file-height="4752" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">A warrior wearing a quju youren shanqun, <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng" title="Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng">Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng</a>, Warring States Period, 6th century BC</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:131px;max-width:131px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:157px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Pair_of_shamans_or_attendants,_Chu_culture,_Jiangling,_Hubei_province,_China,_Warring_States_period,_4th-3rd_century_BC,_wood,_cinnabar,_black_lacquer_-_Portland_Art_Museum_-_Portland,_Oregon_-_DSC08570.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Pair_of_shamans_or_attendants%2C_Chu_culture%2C_Jiangling%2C_Hubei_province%2C_China%2C_Warring_States_period%2C_4th-3rd_century_BC%2C_wood%2C_cinnabar%2C_black_lacquer_-_Portland_Art_Museum_-_Portland%2C_Oregon_-_DSC08570.jpg/250px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="129" height="158" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Pair_of_shamans_or_attendants%2C_Chu_culture%2C_Jiangling%2C_Hubei_province%2C_China%2C_Warring_States_period%2C_4th-3rd_century_BC%2C_wood%2C_cinnabar%2C_black_lacquer_-_Portland_Art_Museum_-_Portland%2C_Oregon_-_DSC08570.jpg/330px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3595" data-file-height="4405" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Shamans wearing jiaoling yoren ruqun, Chu culture, Warring States period, 4th-3rd century BC</div></div></div></div></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="170" height="311" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/330px-Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/340px-Confucius_Tang_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="350" data-file-height="640" /></a><figcaption>8th century depiction of Confucius donning what was perceived as typical fashion of pre-imperial China</figcaption></figure> <p>Based on the archaeological artifacts dating from the Eastern Zhou dynasty, ordinary men, peasants and labourers, were wearing a long <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Youren/_right_lapel" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">youren</a> <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">yi</a></i></span> with narrow-sleeves, with a narrow silk band called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">sitao</i></span> (<a href="/wiki/Chinese_language" title="Chinese language">Chinese</a>: <span lang="zh">丝套</span>) being knotted at the waist over the top.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:95_50-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:95-50"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">youren yi</i></span> was also worn with <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i></span></i> (in a style generally referred as <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">shanku</a></i></span></i>) to allow greater ease of movement, but was made of plain cloth instead of silk cloth.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shanku</i></span></i> of this period also influenced the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Hufu</i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Aristocratic figures did not wear those kind of clothing however, they were wearing wider-sleeved long <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a></i></span></i> which was belted at the waist; one example can be seen from the wooden figures from a <a href="/wiki/Xingyang" title="Xingyang">Xingyang</a> Warring States period tomb.<sup id="cite_ref-57" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-57"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:95_50-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:95-50"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Youren/_right_lapel" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">youren</a></i></span> closures could be found in different shapes, such as <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Jiaoling_youren" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">jiaoling youren</a></i></span> and <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">quju youren</i></span></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_36-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Skirts also appear to have been worn during the Warring States period based on archaeological artifacts and sculpted bronze figures,<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and was worn in the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">shanqun</a></i></span> or <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-59" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-59"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:44_60-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:44-60"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>57<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> An archeological example of a bronze figure wearing <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shanqun</i></span> is the bronze armed warrior holding up chime bells from the <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Marquis_Yi_of_Zeng" title="Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng">Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:44_60-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:44-60"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>57<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A dark yellow-skirt, dating from the late Warring States period, was also found in the Chu Tomb (M1) at the Mashan site in <a href="/wiki/Jiangling_County" title="Jiangling County">Jiangling County</a>, <a href="/wiki/Hubei" title="Hubei">Hubei province</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:83_61-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:83-61"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>58<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:85_62-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:85-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>59<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-63" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-63"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>60<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tleft"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:692px;max-width:692px"><div class="trow"><div class="theader">Shenyi</div></div><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:167px;max-width:167px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:219px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Shanghai_Museum_2006_17-14.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Shanghai_Museum_2006_17-14.jpg/250px-Shanghai_Museum_2006_17-14.jpg" decoding="async" width="165" height="220" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Shanghai_Museum_2006_17-14.jpg/330px-Shanghai_Museum_2006_17-14.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1944" data-file-height="2592" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Attendant wearing a qujupao shenyi, a typical clothing of its period, Warring States Period</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:371px;max-width:371px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:219px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ab/Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg/500px-Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg" decoding="async" width="369" height="220" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ab/Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg/554px-Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Lacquer_painting_from_Ch%27u_State.jpg 2x" data-file-width="697" data-file-height="415" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Women and men wearing shenyi, Jingmen Tomb of the State of Chu (1030 BC – 223 BC)</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:148px;max-width:148px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:219px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_(10341957803).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg/146px-Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="146" height="219" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg/219px-Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg/292px-Warring_States_Bronze_Oil_Lamp_%2810341957803%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3168" data-file-height="4752" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">A bronze oil lamp stand shaped like a man in shenyi, Warring States.</div></div></div></div></div> <div style="clear:both;" class=""></div><p> During the Warring States period, the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span> was also developed.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 9–14">: 9–14 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi#Qujupao" title="Shenyi">qujupao</a></i></span><i>,</i> a type of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> which wrapped in a spiral effect and had fuller sleeves, was found to be worn by tomb figurines of the same period.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 24">: 24 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-65" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-65"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>62<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Unearthed clothing from tombs show that the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> was worn by aristocrats in the state of Chu.<sup id="cite_ref-66" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-66"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>63<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The increased popularity of the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> may have been partially due to the influence of Confucianism.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> remained the dominant form of <i>Hanfu</i> from the Zhou dynasty to the <a href="/wiki/Qin_dynasty" title="Qin dynasty">Qin dynasty</a> and further to the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-67" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-67"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>64<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup></p><div style="clear:both;" class=""></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Qin_dynasty">Qin dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section: Qin dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Dinastia_qin,_garzone_inginocchiato,_dal_sito_del_mausoleo_di_xi%27an,_221-206_ac.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/de/Dinastia_qin%2C_garzone_inginocchiato%2C_dal_sito_del_mausoleo_di_xi%27an%2C_221-206_ac.jpg/250px-Dinastia_qin%2C_garzone_inginocchiato%2C_dal_sito_del_mausoleo_di_xi%27an%2C_221-206_ac.jpg" decoding="async" width="139" height="269" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/de/Dinastia_qin%2C_garzone_inginocchiato%2C_dal_sito_del_mausoleo_di_xi%27an%2C_221-206_ac.jpg/330px-Dinastia_qin%2C_garzone_inginocchiato%2C_dal_sito_del_mausoleo_di_xi%27an%2C_221-206_ac.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1476" data-file-height="2844" /></a><figcaption>A kneeling figurine wearing <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span> or <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">jiaolingpao</a></i></span>, Qin dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>Although the <a href="/wiki/Qin_dynasty" title="Qin dynasty">Qin dynasty</a> was short-lived, it set up a series of systems that impacted the later generations greatly. Following the unification of the seven states, Emperor <a href="/wiki/Qin_Shihuang" class="mw-redirect" title="Qin Shihuang">Qin Shihuang</a> ordered his people, regardless of distance and class, to follow a series of regulations in all forms of cultural aspects, including clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The clothing style in Qin was therefore unitary.<sup id="cite_ref-:23_68-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:23-68"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>65<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Qin dynasty adopted a coloured-clothing system, which stipulated people who held higher position (officials of the third rank and above) wore green <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span> while common people wore normal white <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 183">: 183 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Han Chinese wore the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">shenyi</i></span> as a formal dress and was worn together with a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i></span> and shoes.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup> The Qin dynasty also abolished Zhou dynasty's <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a></i></span> ranking system, replaced with a uniform type of black <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span> called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">junxuan</i></span>(袀玄) <sup id="cite_ref-:1_70-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-70"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">tongtianguan</a></i></span> instead of the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">mianguan</i></span> for the emperor,<sup id="cite_ref-71" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-71"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>67<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-72" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-72"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>68<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> with the officials following suit and wearing the same black robes.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 24">: 24 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 183">: 183 </span></sup> In court, the officials wore hats, loose robes with carving knives hanging from the waist, holding <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Hu_(ritual_baton)" title="Hu (ritual baton)">hu</a></i></span>, and stuck <a href="/wiki/Ink_brush" title="Ink brush">ink brush</a> between head and ears.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 24">: 24 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 183">: 183 </span></sup> There was an increase in the popularity of robes with large sleeves with cuff laces among men.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 24">: 24 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 183">: 183 </span></sup> </p> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tright"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:342px;max-width:342px"><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:231px;max-width:231px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:151px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Some_of_the_figures_are_put_in_a_showcase_for_a_closer_look_(35557414921).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/57/Some_of_the_figures_are_put_in_a_showcase_for_a_closer_look_%2835557414921%29.jpg/250px-Some_of_the_figures_are_put_in_a_showcase_for_a_closer_look_%2835557414921%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="229" height="152" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/57/Some_of_the_figures_are_put_in_a_showcase_for_a_closer_look_%2835557414921%29.jpg/500px-Some_of_the_figures_are_put_in_a_showcase_for_a_closer_look_%2835557414921%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="4928" data-file-height="3264" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">A kneeling <a href="/wiki/Terracotta_Army" title="Terracotta Army">Terracotta Army</a> archer wearing with a shirt, an armoured jacket, a short skirt with underneath trousers, and a shallow-mouth shoes, Qin dynasty</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:107px;max-width:107px"><div class="thumbimage" style="height:151px;overflow:hidden"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg/105px-China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg" decoding="async" width="105" height="152" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg/158px-China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/03/China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg/210px-China.Terracotta_statues042.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1517" data-file-height="2191" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption">Terracotta Army soldiers in colours wearing shangru under their daru with ku trousers, Qin dynasty.</div></div></div></div></div><p> In ordinary times, men wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">ruku</a></i></span> whereas the women wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i></span>.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup> <a href="/wiki/Merchant" title="Merchant">Merchants</a>, regardless of their wealth, were never allowed to wear clothing made of <a href="/wiki/Silk" title="Silk">silk</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-73" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-73"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>69<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The commoners and labourers wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">jiaolingpao</a></i></span> with narrow sleeves, <a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">trousers</a>, and skirts; they braided their hairs or simply wore skull caps and kerchiefs.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 23–33">: 23–33 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 183">: 183 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:83_61-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:83-61"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>58<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The making of different kinds of <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun">qun</a></i></span> (<span lang="zh">裙</span>; 'skirt'; called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">xie</i></span> (<span lang="zh">衺</span>) in Qin dynasty), <i>shangru</i> (<span lang="zh">上襦</span>; 'jacket'), <i>daru</i> (<span lang="zh">大襦</span>; 'outwear') and <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i></span>-trousers is recorded in a Qin dynasty's <a href="/wiki/Bamboo_and_wooden_slips" title="Bamboo and wooden slips">bamboo slip</a> called <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Zhiyi</i></span></i> (<span lang="zh">制衣</span>; 'Making clothes').<sup id="cite_ref-:83_61-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:83-61"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>58<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:85_62-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:85-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>59<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Terracotta_Army" title="Terracotta Army">Terracotta Army</a> also show the differences between soldiers and officers' clothing wherein the elites wore long gown while all the commoners wore shorter jackets; they also wore headgears which ranged from simple head cloths to formal official caps.<sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Cavalry riders were also depicted wearing long-sleeved, hip-length jackets and padded trousers.<sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><div style="clear:both;" class=""></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Han_dynasty">Han dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section: Han dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_(10112546006).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg/250px-Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="147" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg/330px-Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg/500px-Elite_Family_with_Entertainers_%2810112546006%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4752" data-file-height="3168" /></a><figcaption>Banqueting and dancing figurines in Han style <i>Shenyi</i>, the colouring has mostly decayed; 2nd century BCE</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg/250px-Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="498" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg/330px-Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg/500px-Mawangdui_silk_banner_from_tomb_no1.jpg 2x" data-file-width="903" data-file-height="2250" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Sericulture" title="Sericulture">Sericulture</a> and silk embroidery reached a new high in the Han</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg/250px-Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg" decoding="async" width="210" height="141" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg/330px-Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg/500px-Beijing.China_printing_museum.Han_dynasty.pattern_printing.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4006" data-file-height="2686" /></a><figcaption>Silk with intricate hand drawn motif; <a href="/wiki/Mawangdui" title="Mawangdui">Mawangdui</a>, 2nd century BCE</figcaption></figure><p> By the time of <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a>, the <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></span></i> remained popular and developed further into two types: <i><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Shenyi#Qujupao" title="Shenyi">qujupao</a></i></span></i> and <a href="/wiki/Shenyi#Zhijupao" title="Shenyi"><i>zhijupao</i></a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 9–14">: 9–14 </span></sup> The robes appeared to be similar, regardless of gender, in cut and construction: a wrap closure, held by a belt or a sash, with large sleeves gathered in a narrower cuff; however, the fabric, colours and ornaments of the robes were different between gender.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, later during the <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a>, very few people wore <i>shenyi</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:4_75-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:4-75"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>71<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mawangdui_Painted_Figurines_(10112640664).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Mawangdui Painted Figurines wearing qujupao shenyi, Han dynasty"><img alt="Mawangdui Painted Figurines wearing qujupao shenyi, Han dynasty" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6f/Mawangdui_Painted_Figurines_%2810112640664%29.jpg/120px-Mawangdui_Painted_Figurines_%2810112640664%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6f/Mawangdui_Painted_Figurines_%2810112640664%29.jpg/250px-Mawangdui_Painted_Figurines_%2810112640664%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3168" data-file-height="4752" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mawangdui Painted Figurines wearing <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi"><i>qujupao</i> shenyi</a>, Han dynasty</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A female servant and a male advisor in Chinese shenyi, ceramic figurines from the Western Han period (202 BCE – 9 CE)"><img alt="A female servant and a male advisor in Chinese shenyi, ceramic figurines from the Western Han period (202 BCE – 9 CE)" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg/104px-China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg" decoding="async" width="104" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg/156px-China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg/208px-China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1512" data-file-height="1741" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A female servant and a male advisor in Chinese <i>shenyi</i>, ceramic figurines from the <a href="/wiki/History_of_the_Han_dynasty" title="History of the Han dynasty">Western Han period</a> (202 BCE – 9 CE)</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Changguan_of_Hatted_man_male_figurine,_Han_dynasty,_Hunan_Museum2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Wooden figurine of a male servant wearing a changguan(长冠) and shenyi."><img alt="Wooden figurine of a male servant wearing a changguan(长冠) and shenyi." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/84/Changguan_of_Hatted_man_male_figurine%2C_Han_dynasty%2C_Hunan_Museum2.jpg/120px-Changguan_of_Hatted_man_male_figurine%2C_Han_dynasty%2C_Hunan_Museum2.jpg" decoding="async" width="65" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/84/Changguan_of_Hatted_man_male_figurine%2C_Han_dynasty%2C_Hunan_Museum2.jpg/250px-Changguan_of_Hatted_man_male_figurine%2C_Han_dynasty%2C_Hunan_Museum2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2020" data-file-height="3718" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Wooden figurine of a male servant wearing a <i>changguan</i>(长冠) and <i>shenyi</i>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mawangdui_Han_Embroidered_Fabric_(10113178246).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Silk from the Mawangdui tomb 2nd century BCE."><img alt="Silk from the Mawangdui tomb 2nd century BCE." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3d/Mawangdui_Han_Embroidered_Fabric_%2810113178246%29.jpg/120px-Mawangdui_Han_Embroidered_Fabric_%2810113178246%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3d/Mawangdui_Han_Embroidered_Fabric_%2810113178246%29.jpg/250px-Mawangdui_Han_Embroidered_Fabric_%2810113178246%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="4752" data-file-height="3168" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Silk from the <a href="/wiki/Mawangdui" title="Mawangdui">Mawangdui</a> tomb 2nd century BCE.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Flower-patterned silk piece; 2nd century BCE, Mawangdui."><img alt="Flower-patterned silk piece; 2nd century BCE, Mawangdui." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/68/Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg/120px-Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="91" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/68/Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg/180px-Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/68/Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg/240px-Silk_from_Mawangdui.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="778" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Flower-patterned silk piece; 2nd century BCE, Mawangdui.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Eastern Han mural of husband and wife."><img alt="Eastern Han mural of husband and wife." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/120px-Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="86" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/180px-Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/240px-Eastern_han_husband_and_wife_banquet_mural_BM2_Zhucun_Luoyang_%E6%B4%9B%E9%98%B3%E6%9C%B1%E6%9D%91%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E5%A2%93BM2%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1200" data-file-height="864" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Eastern Han mural of husband and wife.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Fresco_of_two_Men_from_a_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_in_Sian,_Shensi.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Fresco of two Men from a Western Han Dynasty Tomb in modern-day Xi'an, Shaanxi"><img alt="Fresco of two Men from a Western Han Dynasty Tomb in modern-day Xi'an, Shaanxi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Fresco_of_two_Men_from_a_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_in_Sian%2C_Shensi.jpg/120px-Fresco_of_two_Men_from_a_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_in_Sian%2C_Shensi.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="75" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Fresco_of_two_Men_from_a_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_in_Sian%2C_Shensi.jpg/250px-Fresco_of_two_Men_from_a_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_in_Sian%2C_Shensi.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="690" data-file-height="433" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Fresco of two Men from a Western Han Dynasty Tomb in modern-day <a href="/wiki/Xi%27an" title="Xi'an">Xi'an</a>, Shaanxi</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Han_Dynasty_Tomb_Mural_in_Chin-hsiang_County_(%E9%87%91%E9%84%95%E7%B8%A3),_Chi-ning_City_(%E6%BF%9F%E5%AF%A7%E5%B8%82).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Mural painting of a male figure wearing wuguan (武冠), discovered in a Western Han dynasty (206 B.C. – 8 A.D.) tomb in Jinxiang County"><img alt="Mural painting of a male figure wearing wuguan (武冠), discovered in a Western Han dynasty (206 B.C. – 8 A.D.) tomb in Jinxiang County" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b9/Han_Dynasty_Tomb_Mural_in_Chin-hsiang_County_%28%E9%87%91%E9%84%95%E7%B8%A3%29%2C_Chi-ning_City_%28%E6%BF%9F%E5%AF%A7%E5%B8%82%29.jpg/120px-Han_Dynasty_Tomb_Mural_in_Chin-hsiang_County_%28%E9%87%91%E9%84%95%E7%B8%A3%29%2C_Chi-ning_City_%28%E6%BF%9F%E5%AF%A7%E5%B8%82%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b9/Han_Dynasty_Tomb_Mural_in_Chin-hsiang_County_%28%E9%87%91%E9%84%95%E7%B8%A3%29%2C_Chi-ning_City_%28%E6%BF%9F%E5%AF%A7%E5%B8%82%29.jpg/250px-Han_Dynasty_Tomb_Mural_in_Chin-hsiang_County_%28%E9%87%91%E9%84%95%E7%B8%A3%29%2C_Chi-ning_City_%28%E6%BF%9F%E5%AF%A7%E5%B8%82%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="533" data-file-height="800" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mural painting of a male figure wearing <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">wuguan</i></span> (武冠), discovered in a <a href="/wiki/Western_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Western Han">Western Han</a> dynasty (206 B.C. – 8 A.D.) tomb in <a href="/wiki/Jinxiang_County" title="Jinxiang County">Jinxiang County</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wall_Mural_of_a_Male_Figure,_Han_Tomb_from_Hou-t%27un_Village_(%E5%BE%8C%E5%B1%AF%E6%9D%91),_Tung-p%27ing_County_(%E6%9D%B1%E5%B9%B3%E7%B8%A3).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A man dressing in the Han dynasty style shenyi"><img alt="A man dressing in the Han dynasty style shenyi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/Wall_Mural_of_a_Male_Figure%2C_Han_Tomb_from_Hou-t%27un_Village_%28%E5%BE%8C%E5%B1%AF%E6%9D%91%29%2C_Tung-p%27ing_County_%28%E6%9D%B1%E5%B9%B3%E7%B8%A3%29.jpg/60px-Wall_Mural_of_a_Male_Figure%2C_Han_Tomb_from_Hou-t%27un_Village_%28%E5%BE%8C%E5%B1%AF%E6%9D%91%29%2C_Tung-p%27ing_County_%28%E6%9D%B1%E5%B9%B3%E7%B8%A3%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="50" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/Wall_Mural_of_a_Male_Figure%2C_Han_Tomb_from_Hou-t%27un_Village_%28%E5%BE%8C%E5%B1%AF%E6%9D%91%29%2C_Tung-p%27ing_County_%28%E6%9D%B1%E5%B9%B3%E7%B8%A3%29.jpg/120px-Wall_Mural_of_a_Male_Figure%2C_Han_Tomb_from_Hou-t%27un_Village_%28%E5%BE%8C%E5%B1%AF%E6%9D%91%29%2C_Tung-p%27ing_County_%28%E6%9D%B1%E5%B9%B3%E7%B8%A3%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="261" data-file-height="620" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A man dressing in the Han dynasty style <i><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors,_2_of_2,_China,_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard,_Pixian_County,_Sichuan,_Eastern_Han_dynasty,_25-220_AD,_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu,_China_-_DSC04747.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="An Eastern Han carved stone tomb door showing a man wearing trousers underneath a long robe with a jinze hat, stored in Sichuan Provincial Museum in Chengdu"><img alt="An Eastern Han carved stone tomb door showing a man wearing trousers underneath a long robe with a jinze hat, stored in Sichuan Provincial Museum in Chengdu" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/41/Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors%2C_2_of_2%2C_China%2C_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard%2C_Pixian_County%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04747.jpg/120px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="78" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/41/Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors%2C_2_of_2%2C_China%2C_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard%2C_Pixian_County%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04747.jpg/250px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3457" data-file-height="5281" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">An <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> carved stone tomb door showing a man wearing trousers underneath a long robe with a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jinze</i></span> hat, stored in <a href="/wiki/Sichuan" title="Sichuan">Sichuan</a> Provincial Museum in <a href="/wiki/Chengdu" title="Chengdu">Chengdu</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors,_1_of_2,_China,_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard,_Pixian_County,_Sichuan,_Eastern_Han_dynasty,_25-220_AD,_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu,_China_-_DSC04745.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="An Eastern Han carved stone tomb door showing a man carrying a shield, wearing a long robe with apron and a wuguan (武冠)/wubian (武弁) on jieze (介帻), stored in Sichuan Provincial Museum in Chengdu."><img alt="An Eastern Han carved stone tomb door showing a man carrying a shield, wearing a long robe with apron and a wuguan (武冠)/wubian (武弁) on jieze (介帻), stored in Sichuan Provincial Museum in Chengdu." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors%2C_1_of_2%2C_China%2C_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard%2C_Pixian_County%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04745.jpg/120px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/Holding_Shield_and_Holding_Broom_tomb_doors%2C_1_of_2%2C_China%2C_unearthed_from_Lanjia_Yard%2C_Pixian_County%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_stone_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04745.jpg/250px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3648" data-file-height="5472" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">An <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> carved stone tomb door showing a man carrying a shield, wearing a long robe with apron and a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">wuguan</i></span> (武冠)/<span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">wubian</i></span> (武弁) on <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jieze</i></span> (介帻), stored in <a href="/wiki/Sichuan" title="Sichuan">Sichuan</a> Provincial Museum in <a href="/wiki/Chengdu" title="Chengdu">Chengdu</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines,_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2(%E4%B9%9D)2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Tracing of stone-relief depicting scholar-officials on Wu Family Shrines."><img alt="Tracing of stone-relief depicting scholar-officials on Wu Family Shrines." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg/120px-Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="117" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg/180px-Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg/240px-Confucian_scholars_of_Wu_Family_Shrines%2C_tracing_from_Jinshisuo_CADAL09010673_%E9%87%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%B4%A2%28%E4%B9%9D%292.jpg 2x" data-file-width="934" data-file-height="914" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Tracing of stone-relief depicting scholar-officials on <a href="/wiki/Wu_Family_Shrines" title="Wu Family Shrines">Wu Family Shrines</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>In the beginning of the Han dynasty, there was no restrictions on the clothing worn by common people.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During the <a href="/wiki/Western_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Western Han">Western Han</a>, the imperial edicts on the use of general clothing were not specific enough to be restrictive to the people, and were not enforced to a great degree.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The clothing was simply differed accordingly to the seasons: blue or green for spring, red for summer, yellow for autumn and black for winter.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:94_48-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:94-48"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>47<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 4">: 4 </span></sup> It was the <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Ming_of_Han" title="Emperor Ming of Han">Emperor Ming of Han</a> formalized the dress code of Han dynasty in 59 AD, during the Eastern Han, restoring the ceremonial use of <i><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a></i> system from the prior <i>junxuan</i> of the Qin dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:2_76-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-76"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> According to the new dress code, the emperor had to be dressed in a black-coloured upper garment and in an ocher yellow-coloured lower garment.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Book_of_Documents" title="Book of Documents">Shangshu</a></i> – <i>Yiji</i> 《尚书益稷》records the <a href="/wiki/Twelve_Ornaments" title="Twelve Ornaments">12 ornaments</a> used on the sacrificial garments which were used to differentiate social ranks in the earlier times.<sup id="cite_ref-:31_77-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:31-77"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>72<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-78" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-78"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>73<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In addition, regulations on the ornaments used by emperors, councillors, dukes, princes, ministers and officials were specified.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 255–261">: 255–261 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:31_77-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:31-77"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>72<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> There were distinct styles of clothing based on social ranks, these regulations were accompanied with Confucian rituals.<sup id="cite_ref-:23_68-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:23-68"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>65<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Different kind of headgear, weaving and fabric material, as well as ribbons attached to officials seals, were also used to distinguish the officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:23_68-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:23-68"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>65<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The official seal was then placed in a leather pouch, was put on its wearer's waist and the ribbon, which came in different colours, size, and texture to indicate ranking, would hang outside the pouch.<sup id="cite_ref-:23_68-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:23-68"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>65<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Throughout the years, Han dynasty women commonly also wore <i>ruqun</i> of various colours.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The combination of upper and lower garments in women's wardrobe eventually became the clothing model of the Han ethnicity of the later generations.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 4">: 4 </span></sup> During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 36">: 36 </span></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A married couple drinks and dines, Eastern Han tomb."><img alt="A married couple drinks and dines, Eastern Han tomb." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/64/%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/120px-%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="51" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/64/%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/250px-%E5%A4%AB%E5%A6%87%E5%AE%B4%E9%A5%AE%E5%9B%BE.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="500" data-file-height="212" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A married couple drinks and dines, Eastern Han tomb.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Dahuting_mural,_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Mural from Dahuting Han Tomb of the late Eastern Han dynasty, in Henan, China"><img alt="Mural from Dahuting Han Tomb of the late Eastern Han dynasty, in Henan, China" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Dahuting_mural%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Dahuting_mural%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="86" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Dahuting_mural%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Dahuting_mural%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="480" data-file-height="342" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mural from <a href="/wiki/Dahuting" title="Dahuting">Dahuting Han Tomb</a> of the late <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han dynasty">Eastern Han dynasty</a>, in <a href="/wiki/Henan" title="Henan">Henan</a>, China</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Woman_with_a_mirror,_China,_unearthed_at_Songjialin,_Pixian,_Sichuan,_Eastern_Han_dynasty,_25-220_AD,_ceramic_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu,_China_-_DSC04768.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Chinese ceramic statue of a woman holding a bronze mirror, Eastern Han period (25-220 AD), Sichuan Museum, Chengdu"><img alt="A Chinese ceramic statue of a woman holding a bronze mirror, Eastern Han period (25-220 AD), Sichuan Museum, Chengdu" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Woman_with_a_mirror%2C_China%2C_unearthed_at_Songjialin%2C_Pixian%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_ceramic_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04768.jpg/80px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Woman_with_a_mirror%2C_China%2C_unearthed_at_Songjialin%2C_Pixian%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_ceramic_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04768.jpg/120px-thumbnail.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Woman_with_a_mirror%2C_China%2C_unearthed_at_Songjialin%2C_Pixian%2C_Sichuan%2C_Eastern_Han_dynasty%2C_25-220_AD%2C_ceramic_-_Sichuan_Provincial_Museum_-_Chengdu%2C_China_-_DSC04768.jpg/160px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3648" data-file-height="5472" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Chinese_ceramics" title="Chinese ceramics">Chinese ceramic</a> statue of a woman holding a <a href="/wiki/Bronze_mirror" title="Bronze mirror">bronze mirror</a>, <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> period (25-220 AD), <a href="/wiki/Sichuan" title="Sichuan">Sichuan</a> Museum, <a href="/wiki/Chengdu" title="Chengdu">Chengdu</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A female dancer from Eastern Han dynasty"><img alt="A female dancer from Eastern Han dynasty" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg/80px-Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg/120px-Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg/160px-Eastern_Han_Pottery_Dancer.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A female dancer from <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Eastern Han dynasty</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Thin_silk_skirt,_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png" class="mw-file-description" title="A Western Han skirt made of thin silk, composed of four pieces sewn together. Excavated from the Mawangdui Tomb No.1. Now stored in the Hunan Museum."><img alt="A Western Han skirt made of thin silk, composed of four pieces sewn together. Excavated from the Mawangdui Tomb No.1. Now stored in the Hunan Museum." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png/120px-Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png" decoding="async" width="120" height="71" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png/180px-Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png/240px-Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png 2x" data-file-width="2440" data-file-height="1434" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Western_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Western Han">Western Han</a> skirt made of thin silk, composed of four pieces sewn together. Excavated from the <a href="/wiki/Mawangdui#Tombs_1_and_2" title="Mawangdui">Mawangdui Tomb No.1</a>. Now stored in the <a href="/wiki/Hunan_Museum" title="Hunan Museum">Hunan Museum</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>The male farmers, workers, businessmen and scholars, were all dressed in similar fashion during the Han dynasty; <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">jackets</a>, aprons, and <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">dubikun</a></i> or leggings were worn by male labourers.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:4_75-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:4-75"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>71<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The jackets worn by men who engaged in physical work is described as being a shorter version of <a href="/wiki/Shenyi#Zhijupao" title="Shenyi"><i>zhijupao</i></a> and it was worn with trousers.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">jingyi</a></i> continued to be worn in the early period of Han dynasty; other forms of trousers in this period were the <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">dakouku</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">dashao</a></i>; both were developed from the <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">hedangku</a></i></span> loose rise introduced by King Wuling.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Men in the Han dynasty also wore a kerchief or a <a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a> on their heads.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i> was used as a symbol of higher status and could only be worn by people of distinguished background.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup> The emperors wore <i><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">tongtianguan</a></i> (通天冠) when meeting with their imperial subjects, <a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)"><i>yuanyouguan</i></a> (遠遊冠) were worn by dukes and princes; <a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)"><i>jinxianguan</i></a> (進賢冠) was worn by civil officials while military officials wore <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">wuguan</a></i> (武冠).<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 16">: 16 </span></sup> The kerchief was a piece of clothing that wrapped around the head, and it symbolized the status of adulthood in men.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> One form of kerchief was <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">ze</i></span> (帻); it was a headband that keep the head warm during cold weather. Over time the <i>ze</i> was attached with a head covering scarf, or <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jin</i></span> (巾), and developed into a full cap called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jinze</i></span> (巾帻).<sup id="cite_ref-:3_79-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-79"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>jinze</i> was adopted into widespread use and worn commonly by military personnel and commoners. Military <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jinze</i></span> was red in color, also called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">chize</i></span> (赤帻). Another variant with a roof-shaped top called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jieze</i></span>(介帻) is used by civil servants, usually greenish black in colour until summer seasons.<sup id="cite_ref-80" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-80"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>74<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:4_81-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:4-81"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Men and women also wore a lined, long robe called <a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 12–13">: 12–13 </span></sup> </p><p>As Buddhism arrived in China during late period of Han dynasty, robes of Buddhist monks started to be produced.<sup id="cite_ref-:54_25-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:54-25"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The attire worn in the Han dynasty laid the foundation for the clothing development in the succeeding dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_a_dancer,_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A male dancer wearing a black jiaolingpao over a pair of red trousers, Dahuting tomb, Eastern Han dynasty"><img alt="A male dancer wearing a black jiaolingpao over a pair of red trousers, Dahuting tomb, Eastern Han dynasty" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/99/Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_a_dancer%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_a_dancer%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/99/Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_a_dancer%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_a_dancer%2C_Eastern_Han_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="664" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A male dancer wearing a black <a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">jiaolingpao</a> over a pair of red trousers, Dahuting tomb, Eastern Han dynasty</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A reconstruction of the Daoyin tu (an exercise chart showing "Guiding and Pulling Chart"), excavated from the Mawangdui Tomb 3 (sealed in 168BC) in the former kingdom of Changsha"><img alt="A reconstruction of the Daoyin tu (an exercise chart showing "Guiding and Pulling Chart"), excavated from the Mawangdui Tomb 3 (sealed in 168BC) in the former kingdom of Changsha" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg/120px-Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="67" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg/180px-Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg/240px-Daoyin_tu_-_chart_for_leading_and_guiding_people_in_exercise_Wellcome_L0036007.jpg 2x" data-file-width="8000" data-file-height="4449" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A reconstruction of the Daoyin tu (an exercise chart showing "Guiding and Pulling Chart"), excavated from the Mawangdui Tomb 3 (sealed in 168BC) in the former kingdom of Changsha</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Western_Han_Pottery_Warrior.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Western Han warrior figure."><img alt="A Western Han warrior figure." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Western_Han_Pottery_Warrior.jpg/120px-Western_Han_Pottery_Warrior.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Western_Han_Pottery_Warrior.jpg/250px-Western_Han_Pottery_Warrior.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Western_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Western Han">Western Han</a> warrior figure.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:EasternHan-ColouredPotteryFigurine-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="An Eastern Han male figure wearing a wubian (武弁), Shanghai Museum"><img alt="An Eastern Han male figure wearing a wubian (武弁), Shanghai Museum" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/22/EasternHan-ColouredPotteryFigurine-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg/60px-EasternHan-ColouredPotteryFigurine-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg" decoding="async" width="57" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/22/EasternHan-ColouredPotteryFigurine-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg/120px-EasternHan-ColouredPotteryFigurine-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1434" data-file-height="2994" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">An <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> male figure wearing a <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">wubian</i></span> (武弁), <a href="/wiki/Shanghai_Museum" title="Shanghai Museum">Shanghai Museum</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Funerary_figurines_from_the_mausoleum_of_Lu_Wu,_Prince_of_Liang.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Funerary terracotta soldiers wearing wubian."><img alt="Funerary terracotta soldiers wearing wubian." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e6/Funerary_figurines_from_the_mausoleum_of_Lu_Wu%2C_Prince_of_Liang.jpg/120px-Funerary_figurines_from_the_mausoleum_of_Lu_Wu%2C_Prince_of_Liang.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e6/Funerary_figurines_from_the_mausoleum_of_Lu_Wu%2C_Prince_of_Liang.jpg/250px-Funerary_figurines_from_the_mausoleum_of_Lu_Wu%2C_Prince_of_Liang.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3888" data-file-height="2592" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Funerary terracotta soldiers wearing <i>wubian</i>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A late Eastern Han Chinese tomb mural showing lively scenes of a banquet, dance and music, acrobatics, and wrestling, from the Dahuting Han Tomb in Henan, China"><img alt="A late Eastern Han Chinese tomb mural showing lively scenes of a banquet, dance and music, acrobatics, and wrestling, from the Dahuting Han Tomb in Henan, China" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cf/Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg/120px-Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cf/Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg/180px-Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cf/Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg/240px-Mural_Painting_of_a_Banquet_Scene_from_the_Han_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Ta-hu-t%27ing.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="664" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A late <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> Chinese tomb mural showing lively scenes of a banquet, dance and music, acrobatics, and wrestling, from the <a href="/wiki/Dahuting" title="Dahuting">Dahuting Han Tomb</a> in <a href="/wiki/Henan" title="Henan">Henan</a>, China</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Han_stone_relief_guard_found_in_Deng_county_Henan_%E6%B2%B3%E5%8D%97%E9%82%93%E5%8E%BF%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E7%94%BB%E5%83%8F%E7%A0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%A9%E5%89%91%E6%89%A7%E7%AC%8F%E6%AD%A6%E5%90%8F.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Military official depicted on Han dynasty stone relief found in Deng county, Henan. Wuguan hat with pheasant-tail decorations denominates martial status.[後漢書 5][75]"><img alt="Military official depicted on Han dynasty stone relief found in Deng county, Henan. Wuguan hat with pheasant-tail decorations denominates martial status.[後漢書 5][75]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/23/Han_stone_relief_guard_found_in_Deng_county_Henan_%E6%B2%B3%E5%8D%97%E9%82%93%E5%8E%BF%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E7%94%BB%E5%83%8F%E7%A0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%A9%E5%89%91%E6%89%A7%E7%AC%8F%E6%AD%A6%E5%90%8F.jpg/60px-Han_stone_relief_guard_found_in_Deng_county_Henan_%E6%B2%B3%E5%8D%97%E9%82%93%E5%8E%BF%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E7%94%BB%E5%83%8F%E7%A0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%A9%E5%89%91%E6%89%A7%E7%AC%8F%E6%AD%A6%E5%90%8F.jpg" decoding="async" width="48" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/23/Han_stone_relief_guard_found_in_Deng_county_Henan_%E6%B2%B3%E5%8D%97%E9%82%93%E5%8E%BF%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E7%94%BB%E5%83%8F%E7%A0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%A9%E5%89%91%E6%89%A7%E7%AC%8F%E6%AD%A6%E5%90%8F.jpg/120px-Han_stone_relief_guard_found_in_Deng_county_Henan_%E6%B2%B3%E5%8D%97%E9%82%93%E5%8E%BF%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E7%94%BB%E5%83%8F%E7%A0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%A9%E5%89%91%E6%89%A7%E7%AC%8F%E6%AD%A6%E5%90%8F.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="239" data-file-height="588" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Military official depicted on Han dynasty stone relief found in Deng county, Henan. <i>Wuguan</i> hat with pheasant-tail decorations denominates martial status.<sup id="cite_ref-:5_82-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-82"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-83" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-83"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>75<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Han_dynasty_scholars_relief_%E8%AE%B2%E5%AD%A6%E7%94%BB_%E7%A0%96%E5%9B%9B%E5%B7%9D%E6%88%90%E9%83%BD%E9%9D%92%E6%9D%A0%E5%9D%A1%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F_%E9%87%8D%E5%BA%86%E5%B8%82%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A6%86%E8%97%8F.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Scholars depicted on Han dynasty pictorial brick, discovered in Chengdu. Scholars wore hats called Jinxian Guan (进贤冠) to denominate educational status.[後漢書 6]"><img alt="Scholars depicted on Han dynasty pictorial brick, discovered in Chengdu. Scholars wore hats called Jinxian Guan (进贤冠) to denominate educational status.[後漢書 6]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Han_dynasty_scholars_relief_%E8%AE%B2%E5%AD%A6%E7%94%BB_%E7%A0%96%E5%9B%9B%E5%B7%9D%E6%88%90%E9%83%BD%E9%9D%92%E6%9D%A0%E5%9D%A1%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F_%E9%87%8D%E5%BA%86%E5%B8%82%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A6%86%E8%97%8F.jpg/120px-Han_dynasty_scholars_relief_%E8%AE%B2%E5%AD%A6%E7%94%BB_%E7%A0%96%E5%9B%9B%E5%B7%9D%E6%88%90%E9%83%BD%E9%9D%92%E6%9D%A0%E5%9D%A1%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F_%E9%87%8D%E5%BA%86%E5%B8%82%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A6%86%E8%97%8F.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="99" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Han_dynasty_scholars_relief_%E8%AE%B2%E5%AD%A6%E7%94%BB_%E7%A0%96%E5%9B%9B%E5%B7%9D%E6%88%90%E9%83%BD%E9%9D%92%E6%9D%A0%E5%9D%A1%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F_%E9%87%8D%E5%BA%86%E5%B8%82%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A6%86%E8%97%8F.jpg/250px-Han_dynasty_scholars_relief_%E8%AE%B2%E5%AD%A6%E7%94%BB_%E7%A0%96%E5%9B%9B%E5%B7%9D%E6%88%90%E9%83%BD%E9%9D%92%E6%9D%A0%E5%9D%A1%E5%87%BA%E5%9C%9F_%E9%87%8D%E5%BA%86%E5%B8%82%E5%8D%9A%E7%89%A9%E9%A6%86%E8%97%8F.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="998" data-file-height="822" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Scholars depicted on Han dynasty pictorial brick, discovered in Chengdu. Scholars wore hats called <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Jinxian Guan</i></span> (进贤冠) to denominate educational status.<sup id="cite_ref-:6_84-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:6-84"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="jieze (介帻), as worn by a ceramic xiao-flute player."><img alt="jieze (介帻), as worn by a ceramic xiao-flute player." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/85/Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg/104px-Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg" decoding="async" width="104" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/85/Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg/156px-Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/85/Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg/208px-Jieze_Chengdu_Museum_%E4%B8%9C%E6%B1%89%E9%99%B6%E4%BA%BA%E4%BF%91.jpg 2x" data-file-width="311" data-file-height="359" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">jieze</i></span> (介帻), as worn by a ceramic xiao-flute player.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Czinke.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Jieze worn by man (left)"><img alt="Jieze worn by man (left)" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Czinke.jpg/120px-Czinke.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="109" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Czinke.jpg/180px-Czinke.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Czinke.jpg/240px-Czinke.jpg 2x" data-file-width="399" data-file-height="361" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn">Jieze</i></span> worn by man (left)</div> </li> </ul> <p>Ornaments and jewelries, such as rings, earrings, bracelets, necklace, and <a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">hairpins</a>, and hair sticks were common worn in China by the time of Han dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The original hair sticks <i>ji</i> evolved to <i><a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">zanzi</a></i> with more decorations.<sup id="cite_ref-87" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-87"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>78<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> And a new type of women hair ornament invented during Han dynasty was the <i><a href="/wiki/Buyao" title="Buyao">buyao</a></i>, which was <i>zanzi</i> added with dangling decorations that would sway when the wearer walk and was unique to the Han Chinese women.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-88" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-88"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>79<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:7_89-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:7-89"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>後漢書 7<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Three_Kingdoms,_Jin_dynasty"><span id="Three_Kingdoms.2C_Jin_dynasty"></span>Three Kingdoms, Jin dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=7" title="Edit section: Three Kingdoms, Jin dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The <i><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a></i> worn in the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a> continued to evolve. During this period, 220–589 AD, the robe became loose on the wearer's body so a wide band functioned as belt was in use to organise the fitting, and the sleeves of the robe changed to "wide-open" instead of cinched at the wrist; this style is referred as <i><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">bao yi bo dai</a></i>, and usually worn with inner shirt and trousers.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In some instances, the upper part of the robe was loose and open with no inner garment worn; men wearing this style of robe was featured in the painting <a href="/wiki/Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove" title="Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove">Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> The <i>bao yi bo dai</i> style appears to have been a northern Han Chinese style, and the popularity of the robe was a result of the widespread <a href="/wiki/Taoism" title="Taoism">Taoism</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Jin dynasty</a>, in particular, while many clothing of the Han dynasty were maintained, scholars and adherents of <a href="/wiki/Neo-Taoism" class="mw-redirect" title="Neo-Taoism">Neo-Taoism</a> rejected the traditional court dress and retreated from the rigid Confucian system; this showed up in how they would dress themselves.<sup id="cite_ref-:127_90-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:127-90"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>80<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The style of men's <i>paofu</i> gradually changed into a more simple and casual style, while the style of women's <i>paofu</i> increased in complexity.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During the <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms</a> and Jin period, especially during the <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Eastern Jin</a> period (317 – 420 AD), aristocratic women sought for a carefree life style after the collapse of the <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Han" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Han">Eastern Han</a> dynasty's ethical code; this kind of lifestyle influenced the development of women's clothing, which became more elaborate.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Typical women attire during this period is the <i><a href="/wiki/Swallow-tailed_Hems_and_Flying_Ribbons_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing">guiyi</a>,</i> a wide-sleeved <i><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a></i> adorned with <i>xian</i> (髾; long swirling silk ribbons) and <i>shao</i> (襳; a type of triangular pieces of decorative embroidered-cloth) on the lower hem of the robe that hanged like banners and formed a "layered effect".<sup id="cite_ref-91" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-91"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>81<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-92" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-92"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>82<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-93" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-93"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>83<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The robe continued to be worn in the <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Northern and Southern dynasties</a> by both men and women, as seen in the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.comuseum.com/arts/beiwei-lacquer-screen/">lacquered screen found in the Northern Wei tomb of Sima Jinlong (ca. 483 A.D)</a>; however, there were some minor alterations to the robe, such as higher waistline and the sleeves are usually left open in a dramatic flare.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Pictura_CARPE_DIEM.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A mural painting showing man and women wearing loose robes, from the Northern Liang's Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5 of the Sixteen Kingdoms period"><img alt="A mural painting showing man and women wearing loose robes, from the Northern Liang's Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5 of the Sixteen Kingdoms period" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/64/Pictura_CARPE_DIEM.jpg/120px-Pictura_CARPE_DIEM.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="72" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/64/Pictura_CARPE_DIEM.jpg/250px-Pictura_CARPE_DIEM.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="700" data-file-height="418" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A mural painting showing man and women wearing loose robes, from the <a href="/wiki/Northern_Liang" title="Northern Liang">Northern Liang</a>'s <a href="/wiki/Dingjiazha_Tomb_No._5" title="Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5">Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5</a> of the <a href="/wiki/Sixteen_Kingdoms" title="Sixteen Kingdoms">Sixteen Kingdoms</a> period</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove wearing bao yi bo dai, from rubbing of Eastern Jin molded tomb bricks"><img alt="Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove wearing bao yi bo dai, from rubbing of Eastern Jin molded tomb bricks" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bb/Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove.jpg/120px-Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="93" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bb/Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove.jpg/250px-Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3052" data-file-height="2360" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Seven_Sages_of_the_Bamboo_Grove" title="Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove">Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove</a> wearing <i>bao yi bo dai</i>, from rubbing of <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Jin" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Jin">Eastern Jin</a> molded tomb bricks</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_(detalle)_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Duke Yi of Wey (衞懿公) wearing paofu, from Wise and Benevolent Women (列女仁智圖) by Jin dynasty's Gu Kaizhi"><img alt="Duke Yi of Wey (衞懿公) wearing paofu, from Wise and Benevolent Women (列女仁智圖) by Jin dynasty's Gu Kaizhi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5c/Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg/87px-Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5c/Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg/131px-Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5c/Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg/175px-Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih_-_Duque_Yi_de_Wey.jpg 2x" data-file-width="421" data-file-height="577" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Duke Yi of <a href="/wiki/Wey_(state)" title="Wey (state)">Wey</a> (衞懿公) wearing <i>paofu</i>, from <i>Wise and Benevolent Women</i> (列女仁智圖) by <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Jin dynasty</a>'s <a href="/wiki/Gu_Kaizhi" title="Gu Kaizhi">Gu Kaizhi</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Male_figure_from_a_lacquer_painting_over_wood,_Northern_Wei.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A man wearing paofu."><img alt="A man wearing paofu." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/18/Male_figure_from_a_lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/120px-Male_figure_from_a_lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/18/Male_figure_from_a_lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/250px-Male_figure_from_a_lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="450" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A man wearing paofu.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Male_Figure_from_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood,_Northern_Wei.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Back view of a man wearing paofu with trousers under his robe"><img alt="Back view of a man wearing paofu with trousers under his robe" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b4/Male_Figure_from_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/120px-Male_Figure_from_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg" decoding="async" width="96" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b4/Male_Figure_from_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/250px-Male_Figure_from_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="386" data-file-height="480" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Back view of a man wearing paofu with trousers under his robe</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Detail_of_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood,_Northern_Wei.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A man wearing paofu and a woman wearing guiyi; lacquer painting, Tomb of Sima Jinlong, Northern Wei, c.484 AD"><img alt="A man wearing paofu and a woman wearing guiyi; lacquer painting, Tomb of Sima Jinlong, Northern Wei, c.484 AD" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Detail_of_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/120px-Detail_of_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="99" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Detail_of_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg/250px-Detail_of_%E2%80%9CVirtuous_Women_of_Ancient_Cathay%E2%80%9C._Lacquer_painting_over_wood%2C_Northern_Wei.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="582" data-file-height="480" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A man wearing <i>paofu</i> and a woman wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Swallow-tailed_Hems_and_Flying_Ribbons_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing">guiyi</a></i>; lacquer painting, Tomb of Sima Jinlong, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Wei" title="Northern Wei">Northern Wei</a>, c.484 AD</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Ku_K%27ai-chih_001.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Court ladies wearing ruqun and guiyi, from Admonitions of the Instructress to the Palace Ladies (女史箴图) by Gu Kaizhi, c.380"><img alt="Court ladies wearing ruqun and guiyi, from Admonitions of the Instructress to the Palace Ladies (女史箴图) by Gu Kaizhi, c.380" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Ku_K%27ai-chih_001.jpg/120px-Ku_K%27ai-chih_001.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="78" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Ku_K%27ai-chih_001.jpg/250px-Ku_K%27ai-chih_001.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2048" data-file-height="1334" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Court ladies wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Swallow-tailed_Hems_and_Flying_Ribbons_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing">guiyi</a></i>, from <i><a href="/wiki/Admonitions_Scroll" title="Admonitions Scroll">Admonitions of the Instructress to the Palace Ladies</a></i> (女史箴图) by <a href="/wiki/Gu_Kaizhi" title="Gu Kaizhi">Gu Kaizhi</a>, c.380</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tunhwang_Fresco_of_a_Woman_dressing_in_Tsa-ch%C3%BC-ch%27ui-shao-fu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Dunhuang Fresco of a Woman dressing in guiyi"><img alt="Dunhuang Fresco of a Woman dressing in guiyi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/Tunhwang_Fresco_of_a_Woman_dressing_in_Tsa-ch%C3%BC-ch%27ui-shao-fu.jpg/120px-Tunhwang_Fresco_of_a_Woman_dressing_in_Tsa-ch%C3%BC-ch%27ui-shao-fu.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/Tunhwang_Fresco_of_a_Woman_dressing_in_Tsa-ch%C3%BC-ch%27ui-shao-fu.jpg/250px-Tunhwang_Fresco_of_a_Woman_dressing_in_Tsa-ch%C3%BC-ch%27ui-shao-fu.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="417" data-file-height="573" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Mogao_Caves" title="Mogao Caves">Dunhuang</a> Fresco of a Woman dressing in <a href="/wiki/Swallow-tailed_Hems_and_Flying_Ribbons_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing">guiyi</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chu_Wuwang_and_Deng_Man.png" class="mw-file-description" title="King Wu of Chu wearing paofu and tongtianguan, from Wise and Benevolent Women (列女仁智圖) by Jin dynasty's Gu Kaizhi"><img alt="King Wu of Chu wearing paofu and tongtianguan, from Wise and Benevolent Women (列女仁智圖) by Jin dynasty's Gu Kaizhi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Chu_Wuwang_and_Deng_Man.png/120px-Chu_Wuwang_and_Deng_Man.png" decoding="async" width="120" height="116" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Chu_Wuwang_and_Deng_Man.png/250px-Chu_Wuwang_and_Deng_Man.png 1.5x" data-file-width="742" data-file-height="715" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/King_Wu_of_Chu" title="King Wu of Chu">King Wu</a> of <a href="/wiki/Chu_(state)" title="Chu (state)">Chu</a> wearing <i>paofu</i> and <i>tongtianguan</i>, from <i>Wise and Benevolent Women</i> (列女仁智圖) by <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Jin dynasty</a>'s <a href="/wiki/Gu_Kaizhi" title="Gu Kaizhi">Gu Kaizhi</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E9%95%82%E7%A9%BA%E5%B1%B1%E8%A1%8C%E9%87%91%E9%A5%B0%E4%BB%B606330.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Golden cicada-patterned dāng (珰), used to decorate official headwears such as longguan / wuguan and tongtianguan.[84]"><img alt="Golden cicada-patterned dāng (珰), used to decorate official headwears such as longguan / wuguan and tongtianguan.[84]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E9%95%82%E7%A9%BA%E5%B1%B1%E8%A1%8C%E9%87%91%E9%A5%B0%E4%BB%B606330.jpg/120px-%E9%95%82%E7%A9%BA%E5%B1%B1%E8%A1%8C%E9%87%91%E9%A5%B0%E4%BB%B606330.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E9%95%82%E7%A9%BA%E5%B1%B1%E8%A1%8C%E9%87%91%E9%A5%B0%E4%BB%B606330.jpg/250px-%E9%95%82%E7%A9%BA%E5%B1%B1%E8%A1%8C%E9%87%91%E9%A5%B0%E4%BB%B606330.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2848" data-file-height="2136" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Golden cicada-patterned <i>dāng</i> (珰), used to decorate official headwears such as <i>longguan</i> / <i>wuguan</i> and <i>tongtianguan</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-94" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-94"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>84<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Ornamental_plaque,_Eastern_Jin_dynasty,_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Eastern Jin dynasty cicada-patterned dāng (珰) plaque ornament, with embedded gemstones."><img alt="Eastern Jin dynasty cicada-patterned dāng (珰) plaque ornament, with embedded gemstones." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f6/Ornamental_plaque%2C_Eastern_Jin_dynasty%2C_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art.JPG/120px-Ornamental_plaque%2C_Eastern_Jin_dynasty%2C_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art.JPG" decoding="async" width="110" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f6/Ornamental_plaque%2C_Eastern_Jin_dynasty%2C_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art.JPG/250px-Ornamental_plaque%2C_Eastern_Jin_dynasty%2C_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art.JPG 1.5x" data-file-width="2388" data-file-height="2598" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Eastern_Jin_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Jin dynasty">Eastern Jin dynasty</a> cicada-patterned <i>dāng</i> (珰) plaque ornament, with embedded gemstones.</div> </li> </ul> <p>Shoes worn during this period included <i>lü</i> (履; regular shoes for formal occasions), <i>ji</i> (屐; high, wooden clogs for informal wear), and shoes with tips which would curl upward.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The shoes with tips curled upward would later become a very popular fashion in the Tang dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Leather boots (靴, <i>xue</i>), <i>quekua</i> (缺胯; an open-collared robe with tight sleeves; it cannot cover the undershirt), hood and cape ensemble were introduced by northern nomads in China.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> Tomb inventories found during this period include: <i>fangyi</i> (方衣; square garment), <i>shan</i> (衫; shirt), <i><a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun">qun</a></i>, <i>hanshan</i> (汗衫; sweatshirt), <i>ru</i> (襦; lined jacket), <a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a> (裤), <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">kun</a></i> (裈), <i>liangdang</i> (两裆; vest), <i>ao</i> (袄; multi-layered lined jacket), <i>xi</i> (褶; a type of jacket), <i><a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">bixi</a></i>; while women's clothing style were usually <i><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i> (lined jacket with long skirt) and <i><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">shanqun</a></i> (衫裙; shirt with long skirt), men's clothing styles are robes, <i><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">shanku</a></i>, and <i>xiku</i> (褶裤; jacket with trousers).<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> During this period, the black gauze hats with a flat top and an ear at either side appeared and were popular for both men and women.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Although they had their own cultural identity, the <a href="/wiki/Cao_Wei" title="Cao Wei">Cao Wei</a> (220–266 AD) and the <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Western Jin</a> (266–316 AD) dynasties continued the cultural legacy of the Han dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup> Clothing during the <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms</a> era and the clothing in <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Jin dynasty</a> (266–420 AD) roughly had the same basic forms as the Han dynasty with special characteristics in their styles; the main clothing worn during those times are: <i><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a></i> (jacket and skirt), <i>ku</i>, and <i>qiu</i> (裘; a fur coat).<sup id="cite_ref-Chinastyle_95-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinastyle-95"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>85<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During this period, elites generally wore <a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">paofu</a> while peasants wore shanku consisting of short jackets and ku.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 23–33">: 23–33 </span></sup> Male commoners wore similar dress as Han dynasty male commoner did; archeological artefacts of this period depict male commoners wearing a full-sleeved, knee-length <i>youren</i> jacket; man's hairstyle is usually a topknot or a flat cap used for head covering.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> Female commoners dressed in similar fashion as their male counterpart but their jacket was sometimes depicted longer; they also wore long skirt or trousers. Attendants (not to be confused with servants) on the other hand are depicted wearing two layers of garment and wore a long skirt reaching the ground with long flowing sleeved jacket.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> The jacket is sometimes closed with a belt or a fastener.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> White colour was the colour worn by commoner people during the Three Kingdoms and Jin period.<sup id="cite_ref-Chinastyle_95-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinastyle-95"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>85<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Commoner-style clothing from this period can be seen on the <a href="/wiki/Jiayu_Pass" title="Jiayu Pass">Jiayuguan</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.topchinatravel.com/china-attractions/weijin-tomb-murals.htm">bricks painting</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Cao Zhi and attendants wearing a liangguan and longguan respectively, depicted on "Nymph of Luo River" by Gu Kaizhi of Eastern Jin dynasty."><img alt="Cao Zhi and attendants wearing a liangguan and longguan respectively, depicted on "Nymph of Luo River" by Gu Kaizhi of Eastern Jin dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/86/Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg/62px-Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg" decoding="async" width="62" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/86/Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg/94px-Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/86/Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg/125px-Portrait_full-length_Cao_Zhi.jpg 2x" data-file-width="950" data-file-height="1822" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Cao Zhi and attendants wearing a <i>liangguan</i> and <i>longguan</i> respectively, depicted on <i>"Nymph of Luo River"</i> by <a href="/wiki/Gu_Kaizhi" title="Gu Kaizhi">Gu Kaizhi</a> of <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Jin_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Eastern Jin dynasty">Eastern Jin dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin,_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Brick painting of a peasant wearing a full-sleeved youren jacket that reached to knees, Three Kingdoms to Jin, found in Jiayuguan, Gansu."><img alt="Brick painting of a peasant wearing a full-sleeved youren jacket that reached to knees, Three Kingdoms to Jin, found in Jiayuguan, Gansu." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG/120px-Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG/180px-Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG/240px-Brick_painting_Wei_to_Jin%2C_Gansu.NationalMuseumBeijing.JPG 2x" data-file-width="912" data-file-height="608" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Brick painting of a peasant wearing a full-sleeved <i>youren</i> jacket that reached to knees, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms</a> to <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Jin</a>, found in <a href="/wiki/Jiayu_Pass" title="Jiayu Pass">Jiayuguan</a>, <a href="/wiki/Gansu" title="Gansu">Gansu</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick2.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Brick painting of a woman wearing ruqun and a man wearing long robe, Three Kingdoms period."><img alt="Brick painting of a woman wearing ruqun and a man wearing long robe, Three Kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7e/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick2.JPG/120px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick2.JPG" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7e/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick2.JPG/250px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick2.JPG 1.5x" data-file-width="912" data-file-height="608" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Brick painting of a woman wearing <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a> and a man wearing long robe, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Brick painting of two women wearing ruqun and a female attendant wearing a jacket with skirt, Three Kingdoms period."><img alt="Brick painting of two women wearing ruqun and a female attendant wearing a jacket with skirt, Three Kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG/120px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG/180px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG/240px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick3.JPG 2x" data-file-width="912" data-file-height="608" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Brick painting of two women wearing <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a> and a female attendant wearing a jacket with skirt, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Brick painting of group of women wearing jacket and skirt, Three Kingdoms period."><img alt="Brick painting of group of women wearing jacket and skirt, Three Kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3f/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG/120px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3f/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG/180px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3f/Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG/240px-Three_Kingdoms_tomb_brick.JPG 2x" data-file-width="912" data-file-height="608" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Brick painting of group of women wearing jacket and skirt, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Celadon_standing_man_figure,_Haidian_Museum,_Wei_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Figure wearing a shanqun, and two male figures with upper garment and trousers, Cao Wei, Three Kingdoms period."><img alt="Figure wearing a shanqun, and two male figures with upper garment and trousers, Cao Wei, Three Kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg/180px-Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg/240px-Celadon_standing_man_figure%2C_Haidian_Museum%2C_Wei_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1020" data-file-height="765" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Figure wearing a <i>shanqun</i>, and two male figures with upper garment and trousers, <a href="/wiki/Cao_Wei" title="Cao Wei">Cao Wei</a>, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Yanju%27s_tomb,_dancer.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A dancer wearing ruqun from Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5, Gansu Province, China."><img alt="A dancer wearing ruqun from Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5, Gansu Province, China." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg/90px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg/135px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg/180px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_dancer.jpg 2x" data-file-width="450" data-file-height="601" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A dancer wearing <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a> from <a href="/wiki/Dingjiazha_Tomb_No._5" title="Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5">Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5</a>, <a href="/wiki/Gansu" title="Gansu">Gansu</a> Province, China.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Fresco_of_a_Young_Girl,_Western_Wei.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Fresco of a Young Girl, Western Wei."><img alt="Fresco of a Young Girl, Western Wei." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Fresco_of_a_Young_Girl%2C_Western_Wei.jpg/120px-Fresco_of_a_Young_Girl%2C_Western_Wei.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="89" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Fresco_of_a_Young_Girl%2C_Western_Wei.jpg/250px-Fresco_of_a_Young_Girl%2C_Western_Wei.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="785" data-file-height="585" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Fresco of a Young Girl, <a href="/wiki/Western_Wei" title="Western Wei">Western Wei</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Cao_Wei_Dynasty_Fresco_Tomb_04.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Mural painting of men wearing robes, Cao Wei, Three Kingdoms period."><img alt="Mural painting of men wearing robes, Cao Wei, Three Kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Cao_Wei_Dynasty_Fresco_Tomb_04.jpg/120px-Cao_Wei_Dynasty_Fresco_Tomb_04.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Cao_Wei_Dynasty_Fresco_Tomb_04.jpg/250px-Cao_Wei_Dynasty_Fresco_Tomb_04.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3888" data-file-height="2592" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mural painting of men wearing robes, <a href="/wiki/Cao_Wei" title="Cao Wei">Cao Wei</a>, <a href="/wiki/Three_Kingdoms" title="Three Kingdoms">Three Kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>The <i>dakouku</i> remained popular.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <i>Dakouku</i> that were bounded with strings at the knees were also called <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">fuku</a></i>, During the <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Western Jin</a>, it was popular to use a felt cord to bind <i>dakouku.</i><sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was worn with a knee-length tight cotton-padded robe as a set of attire called <i><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">kuzhe</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>kuzhe</i> was a very popular style of clothing during the Northern and Southern dynasties and was a Hanfu created by assimilating non-Han Chinese cultures.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> New forms of belts with buckles, dubbed as "Jin style", were also designed during the Western Jin.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup> The "Jin style" belts were later exported to several foreign ethnicities (including the <a href="/wiki/Murong" title="Murong">Murong Xianbei</a>, the Kingdom of <a href="/wiki/Buyeo" title="Buyeo">Buyeo</a>, the early <a href="/wiki/Turkic_peoples" title="Turkic peoples">Türks</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Pannonian_Avars" title="Pannonian Avars">Eurasian Avars</a>); these belts was later imitated by the Murong Xianbei and Buyeo before evolving into the golden parade belts with hanging metal straps of <a href="/wiki/Goguryeo" title="Goguryeo">Goguryeo</a> and <a href="/wiki/Silla" title="Silla">Silla</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Sixteen_Kingdoms,_Northern_and_Southern_dynasties"><span id="Sixteen_Kingdoms.2C_Northern_and_Southern_dynasties"></span>Sixteen Kingdoms, Northern and Southern dynasties</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=8" title="Edit section: Sixteen Kingdoms, Northern and Southern dynasties"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg/250px-%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="330" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg/330px-%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg/500px-%E5%89%8D%E7%A7%A6%E7%B4%AB%E7%BC%AC%E8%A5%A6%E7%BB%AF%E7%A2%A7%E8%A3%99.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3632" data-file-height="5456" /></a><figcaption>Ruqun, from a <a href="/wiki/Former_Qin" title="Former Qin">Former Qin</a> tomb</figcaption></figure> <p>Due to the frequent wars in this era, mass migration occurred and resulted in several ethnics living together with communication exchange; as such, this period marked an important time of cultural integration and cultural blending, including the cultural exchange of clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-96" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-96"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>86<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Han Chinese living in the south favoured the driving dress of the northern minorities, <a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">trousers and <i>xi</i></a> (褶; a tight sleeved, close fitting long jacket, length reaching below crotch and above knees), while the rulers from northern minorities favoured the court dress of the Han Chinese.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Near the areas of the <a href="/wiki/Yellow_River" title="Yellow River">Yellow River</a>, the popularity of the ethnic minorities' <i>hufu</i> was high, almost equal to the Han Chinese clothing, in the <a href="/wiki/Sixteen_Kingdoms" title="Sixteen Kingdoms">Sixteen Kingdoms</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Northern and Southern dynasties</a> period.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p><i>Liangdang</i> (<span lang="zh-Hans">两裆</span>; <span lang="zh-Hant">兩襠</span>) is a type of undershirt or <a href="/wiki/Waistcoat" title="Waistcoat">waistcoat</a> worn in Northern China during the Sixteen Kingdoms period;<sup id="cite_ref-97" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-97"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>87<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-98" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-98"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>88<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> it is not to be confused with a type of doubled-faced cuirass <a href="/wiki/Armour" title="Armour">armour</a>, also named <i>liangdang</i>, which was worn during this period.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 333–334">: 333–334 </span></sup> </p><p>During the Northern and Southern dynasties, the dressing style followed the style of the Three Kingdoms and Jin dynasty; robes, skirts, trousers, short jackets, sleeveless jackets were worn while fur coats, especially marten coats, were very rare.<sup id="cite_ref-:12_99-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:12-99"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>89<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Young people liked to be dressed in trousers; however, it was not well-perceived for women to wear trousers; women wore skirts.<sup id="cite_ref-:12_99-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:12-99"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>89<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Based on tomb figures dating from the Southern dynasties, it is known that the robes worn during those period continued the long, wide-sleeves, <i>youren</i> opening tradition.<sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The robes continued to be fastened with a girdle and was worn over a straight-neck undergarment.<sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Tomb figures depicted as servants in this period are also shown wearing skirts, aprons, trousers and upper garments with vertical opening or <i>youren opening</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Servants wore narrow-sleeved upper garment whereas attendants had wider sleeves which could be knotted above the wrist.<sup id="cite_ref-:90_86-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:90-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The court dress was still <i>xuanyi</i> (玄衣; dark cloth); however, there were regulations in terms of fabric materials used.<sup id="cite_ref-:12_99-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:12-99"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>89<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Yanju%27s_tomb,_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Portrait of an official wearing shenyi and jinxianguan from Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5."><img alt="Portrait of an official wearing shenyi and jinxianguan from Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2d/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg/88px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg" decoding="async" width="88" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2d/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg/131px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2d/Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg/175px-Yanju%27s_tomb%2C_portrait_of_Lord_Yanju.jpg 2x" data-file-width="450" data-file-height="616" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Portrait of an official wearing <i>shenyi</i> and <i>jinxianguan</i> from <a href="/wiki/Dingjiazha_Tomb_No._5" title="Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5">Dingjiazha Tomb No. 5</a>. </div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men wearing kuzhe with xi depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief, unearthed in Dengxian, Henan, 1958. depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief, unearthed in Dengxian, Henan, 1958."><img alt="Men wearing kuzhe with xi depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief, unearthed in Dengxian, Henan, 1958. depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief, unearthed in Dengxian, Henan, 1958." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/ff/Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg/120px-Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/ff/Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg/180px-Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/ff/Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg/240px-Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_16.jpg 2x" data-file-width="5184" data-file-height="3456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men wearing <i>kuzhe</i> with <i>xi</i> depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief, unearthed in Dengxian, Henan, 1958. depicted on a <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a> brick relief, unearthed in <a href="/wiki/Dengzhou" title="Dengzhou">Dengxian</a>, <a href="/wiki/Henan" title="Henan">Henan</a>, 1958.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_06.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Scholars (and maids) wearing xi with robes (and shirt with long skirt) underneath, depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief."><img alt="Scholars (and maids) wearing xi with robes (and shirt with long skirt) underneath, depicted on a Southern dynasty brick relief." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_06.jpg/120px-Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_06.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_06.jpg/250px-Southern_Dynasties_Brick_Relief_06.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="5184" data-file-height="3456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Scholars (and maids) wearing <i>xi</i> with robes (and shirt with long skirt) underneath, depicted on a <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a> brick relief.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Southern_Dynasty_(420-589_AD)-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="A candle stick holder depicting a man in a robe with a youren opening, Southern dynasty (420-589 AD)."><img alt="A candle stick holder depicting a man in a robe with a youren opening, Southern dynasty (420-589 AD)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG/90px-Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG/135px-Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG/180px-Southern_Dynasty_%28420-589_AD%29-Candle_Stick_Holder.JPG 2x" data-file-width="2448" data-file-height="3264" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A candle stick holder depicting a man in a robe with a <i>youren</i> opening, <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a> (420-589 AD).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A female figure wearing a shanqun; the upper garment has a vertical opening, Liang dynasty, Southern dynasty."><img alt="A female figure wearing a shanqun; the upper garment has a vertical opening, Liang dynasty, Southern dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/07/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg/120px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/07/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg/250px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2760" data-file-height="4912" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A female figure wearing a <i>shanqun</i>; the upper garment has a vertical opening, <a href="/wiki/Liang_dynasty" title="Liang dynasty">Liang dynasty</a>, <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B7%E4%BF%91.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A male figure wearing a youren opening upper garment and trousers, Liang dynasty, Southern dynasty."><img alt="A male figure wearing a youren opening upper garment and trousers, Liang dynasty, Southern dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B7%E4%BF%91.jpg/120px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B7%E4%BF%91.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B7%E4%BF%91.jpg/250px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%BB%91%E7%9F%B3%E7%94%B7%E4%BF%91.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2678" data-file-height="4765" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A male figure wearing a <i>youren</i> opening upper garment and trousers, <a href="/wiki/Liang_dynasty" title="Liang dynasty">Liang dynasty</a>, <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Earthenware Nanjing female figure wearing youren upper garment and a skirt with a straight-necked undergarment; d. Southern dynasty.[90]"><img alt="Earthenware Nanjing female figure wearing youren upper garment and a skirt with a straight-necked undergarment; d. Southern dynasty.[90]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg/80px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg/120px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg/160px-%E5%8D%97%E6%9C%9D%E9%99%B6%E5%A5%B3%E4%BF%91.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3127" data-file-height="4697" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Earthenware <a href="/wiki/Nanjing" title="Nanjing">Nanjing</a> female figure wearing <i>youren</i> upper garment and a skirt with a straight-necked undergarment; d. <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Southern dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-100" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-100"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>90<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> </ul> <p>In the <a href="/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties" title="Northern and Southern dynasties">Northern dynasties</a> (386 - 581 AD), ordinary women always wore short jackets and coats.<sup id="cite_ref-:12_99-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:12-99"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>89<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The ethnic <a href="/wiki/Xianbei" title="Xianbei">Xianbei</a> founded the Northern Wei dynasty in 398 A.D. and continued to wear their traditional, tribal nomadic clothing to denote themselves as members of the ruling elite until c. 494 A.D. when <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Xiaowen_of_Northern_Wei" title="Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei">Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei</a> decreed a prohibition of Xianbei clothing among many other prohibition on Xianbei culture (e.g. language, Xianbei surnames) as a form of sinicization policies and allowed the intermarriage between Xianbei and Chinese elites.<sup id="cite_ref-:45_17-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:45-17"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-101" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-101"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>91<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:34_102-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:34-102"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>92<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Wei_shu" class="mw-redirect" title="Wei shu">Wei shu</a> even claimed that the Xianbei rulers were descendants of <a href="/wiki/Yellow_Emperor" title="Yellow Emperor">Yellow Emperor</a>, just like the Han Chinese, despite being non-Chinese.<sup id="cite_ref-:34_102-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:34-102"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>92<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Wei shu also records that Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei promoted Chinese-style long robes and official crowns in the court to display the wearer's rank and his hierarchical position in the court and ritual functions.<sup id="cite_ref-103" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-103"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>93<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, both male and female patrons appeared in Xianbei-style attire during the 5th century AD, this can be seen particular at the <a href="/wiki/Yungang_Grottoes" title="Yungang Grottoes">Yungang caves temples</a> near <a href="/wiki/Datong" title="Datong">Datong</a> and in the earliest carvings at <a href="/wiki/Longmen_Grottoes" title="Longmen Grottoes">Longmen</a>, whereas in the first third of the 6th century, the patrons tend to appear in Chinese-style clothing in the majority of Northern Wei caves at Longmen; this change in clothing style has been suggested to be the result of sinicization policies regarding the adoption of Chinese-style clothing in the Northern Wei court.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><i><sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup></i> Earliest images of <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2012080911">nomadic Xianbei-style dress</a> in China tend to be depicted as a knee-length tunic with narrow sleeves, with a front opening, which can typically be collarless, round-collared, and sometimes be V-neck collared; men and women tend to wear that knee-length tunic over trousers for men and long, ground-length skirts for women.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:34_102-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:34-102"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>92<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-104" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-104"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>94<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> When their tunics had lapelled, the lapel opening was typically <i>zuoren.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup></i><sup id="cite_ref-105" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-105"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>95<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Xianbei people also wore Xianbei-style cloaks and <i>xianbei hat</i> (鮮卑帽; xianbei mao).<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:34_102-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:34-102"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>92<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:China_yungang_grotto_relief.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Emperor Xiaowen with his entourage, Central Bingyang cave, Longmen, Zhejiang; Northern Wei c.522-523."><img alt="Emperor Xiaowen with his entourage, Central Bingyang cave, Longmen, Zhejiang; Northern Wei c.522-523." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/China_yungang_grotto_relief.jpg/120px-China_yungang_grotto_relief.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/China_yungang_grotto_relief.jpg/250px-China_yungang_grotto_relief.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2272" data-file-height="1704" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Emperor_Xiaowen_of_Northern_Wei" title="Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei">Emperor Xiaowen</a> with his entourage, Central Bingyang cave, Longmen, Zhejiang; Northern Wei c.522-523.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Procession_of_the_Empress_as_Donor_with_Her_Court,_Chinese,_from_the_Binyang_Cave,_Longmen,_Henan_Province,_Norther_Wei_Dynasty,_about_522_-_Nelson-Atkins_Museum_of_Art_-_DSC09118.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Procession of the Empress as Donor with Her Court, Chinese, from the Binyang Cave, Longmen, Henan Province, Northern Wei Dynasty, c. 522 AD."><img alt="Procession of the Empress as Donor with Her Court, Chinese, from the Binyang Cave, Longmen, Henan Province, Northern Wei Dynasty, c. 522 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ec/Procession_of_the_Empress_as_Donor_with_Her_Court%2C_Chinese%2C_from_the_Binyang_Cave%2C_Longmen%2C_Henan_Province%2C_Norther_Wei_Dynasty%2C_about_522_-_Nelson-Atkins_Museum_of_Art_-_DSC09118.JPG/120px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="86" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ec/Procession_of_the_Empress_as_Donor_with_Her_Court%2C_Chinese%2C_from_the_Binyang_Cave%2C_Longmen%2C_Henan_Province%2C_Norther_Wei_Dynasty%2C_about_522_-_Nelson-Atkins_Museum_of_Art_-_DSC09118.JPG/180px-thumbnail.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ec/Procession_of_the_Empress_as_Donor_with_Her_Court%2C_Chinese%2C_from_the_Binyang_Cave%2C_Longmen%2C_Henan_Province%2C_Norther_Wei_Dynasty%2C_about_522_-_Nelson-Atkins_Museum_of_Art_-_DSC09118.JPG/240px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4030" data-file-height="2891" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Procession of the Empress as Donor with Her Court, Chinese, from the Binyang Cave, Longmen, Henan Province, Northern Wei Dynasty, c. 522 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wall-Painting_from_the_Tomb_of_Ts%27ui_F%C3%AAn.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Procession of tomb occupant and his wives, mural painting from the tomb of General Cui Fen; Northern Qi."><img alt="Procession of tomb occupant and his wives, mural painting from the tomb of General Cui Fen; Northern Qi." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/52/Wall-Painting_from_the_Tomb_of_Ts%27ui_F%C3%AAn.jpg/120px-Wall-Painting_from_the_Tomb_of_Ts%27ui_F%C3%AAn.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="79" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/52/Wall-Painting_from_the_Tomb_of_Ts%27ui_F%C3%AAn.jpg/250px-Wall-Painting_from_the_Tomb_of_Ts%27ui_F%C3%AAn.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="396" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Procession of tomb occupant and his wives, mural painting from the tomb of General Cui Fen; Northern Qi.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Gongyi_Grottoes_-_14.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Procession, Gongyi, Henan Province, Northern Wei dynasty."><img alt="Procession, Gongyi, Henan Province, Northern Wei dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7f/Gongyi_Grottoes_-_14.jpg/120px-Gongyi_Grottoes_-_14.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7f/Gongyi_Grottoes_-_14.jpg/250px-Gongyi_Grottoes_-_14.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="4752" data-file-height="3168" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Procession, Gongyi, Henan Province, Northern Wei dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Northern_Wei_dynasty_statue_depicting_Han_Chinese_clothing_in_Xianbei_kingdom.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A pottery figure wearing Han Chinese style attire, Northern Wei (471 - 499 AD). The garment has a youren opening."><img alt="A pottery figure wearing Han Chinese style attire, Northern Wei (471 - 499 AD). The garment has a youren opening." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/7/78/Northern_Wei_dynasty_statue_depicting_Han_Chinese_clothing_in_Xianbei_kingdom.jpg/120px-Northern_Wei_dynasty_statue_depicting_Han_Chinese_clothing_in_Xianbei_kingdom.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/7/78/Northern_Wei_dynasty_statue_depicting_Han_Chinese_clothing_in_Xianbei_kingdom.jpg/250px-Northern_Wei_dynasty_statue_depicting_Han_Chinese_clothing_in_Xianbei_kingdom.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="384" data-file-height="512" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A pottery figure wearing Han Chinese style attire, Northern Wei (471 - 499 AD). The garment has a <i>youren</i> opening.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_Xianbei_warrior.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Male xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty."><img alt="Male xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_Xianbei_warrior.jpg/120px-CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_Xianbei_warrior.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_Xianbei_warrior.jpg/250px-CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_Xianbei_warrior.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2321" data-file-height="3481" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Male xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Female xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty."><img alt="Female xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg/80px-CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg/120px-CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg/160px-CMOC_Treasures_of_Ancient_China_exhibit_-_figure_of_a_female_warrior.jpg 2x" data-file-width="500" data-file-height="750" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Female xianbei warrior wearing a cloak and xianbei hat, Northern Wei dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Northern_Wei_Pottery_Figure,_Tomb_of_Sima_Jinlong,_484_AD_(10100552803).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Example of a female attendant wearing an early Xianbei garb, the opening is zuoren, unearthed in Sima Jinlong tomb, Northern Wei, 484 AD.[96]"><img alt="Example of a female attendant wearing an early Xianbei garb, the opening is zuoren, unearthed in Sima Jinlong tomb, Northern Wei, 484 AD.[96]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9b/Northern_Wei_Pottery_Figure%2C_Tomb_of_Sima_Jinlong%2C_484_AD_%2810100552803%29.jpg/120px-Northern_Wei_Pottery_Figure%2C_Tomb_of_Sima_Jinlong%2C_484_AD_%2810100552803%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9b/Northern_Wei_Pottery_Figure%2C_Tomb_of_Sima_Jinlong%2C_484_AD_%2810100552803%29.jpg/250px-Northern_Wei_Pottery_Figure%2C_Tomb_of_Sima_Jinlong%2C_484_AD_%2810100552803%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Example of a female attendant wearing an early <a href="/wiki/Xianbei" title="Xianbei">Xianbei</a> garb, the opening is <i>zuoren,</i> unearthed in Sima Jinlong tomb, Northern Wei, 484 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-106" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-106"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>96<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> </ul> <p>Despite the sinicization policies attempted by the <a href="/wiki/Northern_Wei" title="Northern Wei">Northern Wei</a> court, the nomadic style clothing continued to exist in China until <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 312–330">: 312–330 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:91_107-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:91-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, narrow and tight sleeves, which was well adapted to nomadic life-style, started to be favoured and was adopted by Han Chinese.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_30-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 424">: 424 </span></sup> In the Shuiyusi temple of <a href="/wiki/Xiangtangshan_Caves" title="Xiangtangshan Caves">Xiangtangshan Caves</a> dated back to Northern dynasties, male worshippers are usually dressed in Xianbei style attire while women are dressed in Han Chinese style attire wearing skirts and high-waisted, wrap-style robes with wide sleeves.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Moreover, after the fall of the Northern Wei, tensions started to rise between the <a href="/wiki/Western_Wei" title="Western Wei">Western Wei</a> (which was more sinicized) and the <a href="/wiki/Eastern_Wei" title="Eastern Wei">Eastern Wei</a> (which was less sinicized and resented the sinicized court of Northern Wei).<sup id="cite_ref-:91_107-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:91-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Due to the shift in politics, Han and non-Han Chinese ethnic tensions arose between the successor states of Northern Wei;<sup id="cite_ref-:91_107-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:91-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and Xianbei-style clothing reappeared; however, their clothing had minor changes.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup> </p><p>At the end of the Northern and Southern dynasties, foreign immigrants started to settle in China; most of those foreign immigrants were traders and buddhists missionaries from <a href="/wiki/Central_Asia" title="Central Asia">Central Asia</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-108" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-108"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>98<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Cultural_diversity" title="Cultural diversity">Cultural diversity</a> was also the most striking feature in China in the sixth-century AD.<sup id="cite_ref-:91_107-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:91-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> From the mural paintings found in the <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Xu_Xianxiu" title="Tomb of Xu Xianxiu">Tomb of Xu Xianxiu</a> of the <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a>, various types of attire are depicted which reflect the <a href="/wiki/Internationalism_(politics)" title="Internationalism (politics)">internationalism</a> and <a href="/wiki/Multiculturalism" title="Multiculturalism">multiculturalism</a> of the Northern Qi; many of the attire styles are derived from Central Asia or nomadic designs.<sup id="cite_ref-:66_109-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:66-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The wife of Xu Xianxiu is depicted with a <i>flying-bird bun</i>; she is wearing a Han Chinese cross-collared, wide-sleeves attire which has the basic clothing design derived from the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a> attire with some altered designs, such as a high waistline and wide standing collar.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:66_109-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:66-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Xu Xianxiu is depicted wearing a Central Asian-style coat, Xianbei-style tunic, trousers, and boots.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:66_109-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:66-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some of the female servants depicted from the tomb murals of Xu Xianxiu are wearing what appears to be Sogdian dresses, which tend to be associated with dancing girls and low-status entertainers during this period, while the <a href="/wiki/Ladies-in-waiting" class="mw-redirect" title="Ladies-in-waiting">ladies-in-waiting</a> of Xu Xianxiu's wife are wearing narrow-sleeved clothing which look more closely related to Xianbei-style or Central Asian-style clothing; yet this Xianbei style of attire is different from the depictions of Xianbei-style attire worn before 500 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:66_109-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:66-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The men (i.e. soldiers, grooms and male attendants) in the mural paintings of Xu Xianxiu tomb are depicted wearing high black or brown boots, belts, headgears, and clothing which follows the Xianbei-style, i.e. V-neck, long tunic which is below knee-length, with the left lapel of the front covering the right; narrow-sleeved tunic which is worn on top of round-collared undergarment are also depicted.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:66_109-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:66-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> High-waisted skirt style, which likely came from Central Asia, was also introduced to Han Chinese during the Northern Wei dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:37_110-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:37-110"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>100<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mural_of_a_Gate_Guard_(%E9%96%80%E5%90%8F)_from_Tomb_of_Lou_Jui_(%E5%A9%81%E5%8F%A1).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Northern Qi dynasty mural of a gate guard from the tomb of Lou Rui (婁叡)."><img alt="A Northern Qi dynasty mural of a gate guard from the tomb of Lou Rui (婁叡)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b9/Mural_of_a_Gate_Guard_%28%E9%96%80%E5%90%8F%29_from_Tomb_of_Lou_Jui_%28%E5%A9%81%E5%8F%A1%29.jpg/120px-Mural_of_a_Gate_Guard_%28%E9%96%80%E5%90%8F%29_from_Tomb_of_Lou_Jui_%28%E5%A9%81%E5%8F%A1%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="78" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b9/Mural_of_a_Gate_Guard_%28%E9%96%80%E5%90%8F%29_from_Tomb_of_Lou_Jui_%28%E5%A9%81%E5%8F%A1%29.jpg/250px-Mural_of_a_Gate_Guard_%28%E9%96%80%E5%90%8F%29_from_Tomb_of_Lou_Jui_%28%E5%A9%81%E5%8F%A1%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="500" data-file-height="767" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a> dynasty mural of a gate guard from the tomb of Lou Rui (婁叡).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Riders_on_Horseback,_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Riders on Horseback; Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi dynasty."><img alt="Riders on Horseback; Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="113" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg/180px-Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg/240px-Riders_on_Horseback%2C_Northern_Qi_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1353" data-file-height="1273" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Riders on Horseback; Tomb of Lou Rui, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Paintings_on_north_wall_of_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="The wife of Xu Xianxiu is wearing Han Chinese style clothing which derived from Han prototype with altered details such as high-waist and wide standing collar; Mural from Xu Xianxiu Tomb, Northern Qi, 571 AD."><img alt="The wife of Xu Xianxiu is wearing Han Chinese style clothing which derived from Han prototype with altered details such as high-waist and wide standing collar; Mural from Xu Xianxiu Tomb, Northern Qi, 571 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/66/Paintings_on_north_wall_of_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb.jpg/120px-Paintings_on_north_wall_of_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="75" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/66/Paintings_on_north_wall_of_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb.jpg/250px-Paintings_on_north_wall_of_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1856" data-file-height="1164" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">The wife of Xu Xianxiu is wearing Han Chinese style clothing which derived from Han prototype with altered details such as high-waist and wide standing collar; Mural from <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Xu_Xianxiu" title="Tomb of Xu Xianxiu">Xu Xianxiu Tomb</a>, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a>, 571 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Paintings_in_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb_5.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="The wife of the Xu Xianxiu in Han Chinese-style clothing, Mural painting from Xu Xianxiu Tomb, Northern Qi, 571 AD."><img alt="The wife of the Xu Xianxiu in Han Chinese-style clothing, Mural painting from Xu Xianxiu Tomb, Northern Qi, 571 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4f/Paintings_in_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb_5.jpg/120px-Paintings_in_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb_5.jpg" decoding="async" width="103" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4f/Paintings_in_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb_5.jpg/250px-Paintings_in_Xu_Xianxiu_Tomb_5.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="666" data-file-height="778" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">The wife of the Xu Xianxiu in Han Chinese-style clothing, Mural painting from <a href="/wiki/Tomb_of_Xu_Xianxiu" title="Tomb of Xu Xianxiu">Xu Xianxiu Tomb</a>, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a>, 571 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Northern_Qi_Pottery_Warrior_(9832768635).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A warrior in Xianbei-style costume, Northern Qi. The opening of the upper garment is zuoren."><img alt="A warrior in Xianbei-style costume, Northern Qi. The opening of the upper garment is zuoren." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Northern_Qi_Pottery_Warrior_%289832768635%29.jpg/120px-Northern_Qi_Pottery_Warrior_%289832768635%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Northern_Qi_Pottery_Warrior_%289832768635%29.jpg/250px-Northern_Qi_Pottery_Warrior_%289832768635%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A warrior in Xianbei-style costume, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a>. The opening of the upper garment is <i>zuoren</i>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Northern_Dynasties_Pottery_Figure_(11865509226).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Northern dynasties attendant wearing pingshangze and liangdang (裲裆)"><img alt="Northern dynasties attendant wearing pingshangze and liangdang (裲裆)" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4e/Northern_Dynasties_Pottery_Figure_%2811865509226%29.jpg/120px-Northern_Dynasties_Pottery_Figure_%2811865509226%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4e/Northern_Dynasties_Pottery_Figure_%2811865509226%29.jpg/250px-Northern_Dynasties_Pottery_Figure_%2811865509226%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Northern dynasties attendant wearing <a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu_headwear" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu headwear"><i>pingshangze</i></a> and <i>liangdang</i> (裲裆)</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sogdian_figures_on_the_Tomb_of_An_Jia_579_CE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Sogdian figures, wearing Sogdian clothing, Tomb of An Jia, 579 CE."><img alt="Sogdian figures, wearing Sogdian clothing, Tomb of An Jia, 579 CE." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/Sogdian_figures_on_the_Tomb_of_An_Jia_579_CE.jpg/120px-Sogdian_figures_on_the_Tomb_of_An_Jia_579_CE.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="42" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/Sogdian_figures_on_the_Tomb_of_An_Jia_579_CE.jpg/250px-Sogdian_figures_on_the_Tomb_of_An_Jia_579_CE.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1910" data-file-height="664" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Sogdian figures, wearing Sogdian clothing, Tomb of An Jia, 579 CE.</div> </li> </ul><p>Of note, significant changes occurred to the form of the garments which had been originally introduced by the Xianbei and other <a href="/wiki/Turkic_peoples" title="Turkic peoples">Turkic</a> people who had settled in northern China after the fall of the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han dynasty</a>; for example, in the arts and literature which dates from the 5th century, their male clothing appeared to represent the ethnicity of its wearer, but in the 6th century, the attire lost its ethnic significance and did not denote its wearer as Xianbei or non-Chinese.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Instead, the nomadic dress had turned into a type of male ordinary dress in the <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui</a> and early <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasties</a> regardless of ethnicity.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:86_111-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:86-111"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>101<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> On the other hand, the Xianbei women gradually abandoned their ethnic Xianbei clothing and adopted Han Chinese-style and Central Asian-style clothing to the point that by the Sui dynasty, women in China were no longer wearing <a href="/wiki/Steppe" title="Steppe">steppe</a> clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:86_111-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:86-111"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>101<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Sui,_Tang,_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period"><span id="Sui.2C_Tang.2C_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period"></span>Sui, Tang, Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=9" title="Edit section: Sui, Tang, Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main articles: <a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">Qixiong ruqun</a> and <a href="/wiki/Tanling_ruqun" title="Tanling ruqun">Tanling ruqun</a></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/Popular_fashion_in_ancient_China" title="Popular fashion in ancient China">Popular fashion in ancient China</a></div> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang</a> dynasties developed the <i>pinsefu</i> (品色服), which was a colour grading clothing system to differentiate social ranking; this colour grading system for clothing then continued to be developed in the subsequent dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-112" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-112"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>102<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-113" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-113"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>103<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Sui_dynasty">Sui dynasty</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=10" title="Edit section: Sui dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Following the unification of China under the <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui dynasty</a>, the Sui court abolished the <a href="/wiki/Northern_Zhou" title="Northern Zhou">Northern Zhou</a> rituals and adopted the rituals, practices and ideas of the <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han</a> and <a href="/wiki/Cao_Wei" title="Cao Wei">Cao Wei dynasties</a>, and the clothing code of the Han dynasty was restored.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:91_107-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:91-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Sui system was also based on the system of <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(266%E2%80%93420)" title="Jin dynasty (266–420)">Western Jin</a> and <a href="/wiki/Northern_Qi" title="Northern Qi">Northern Qi</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The first emperor of Sui, <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Wen_of_Sui" title="Emperor Wen of Sui">Emperor Gaozu</a>, would wear <i><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">tongtianfu</a></i> on grand occasions, <i>gunyi</i> (衮衣; <i>dragon robe</i>) on suburban rites and visits to ancestral temple.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> He also set the colour red as the authoritative colour of the court imperial robes; this included the clothing of emperors and the ceremonial clothing of the princes.<sup id="cite_ref-:92_115-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:92-115"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>105<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Crimson was the colour of martial clothing (i.e. chamber guards, martial guards, generals and duke generals) whereas servants would wear purple clothing, which consisted of hood and loose trousers.<sup id="cite_ref-:92_115-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:92-115"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>105<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During Emperor Gaozu's time, the court official garment was similar to the clothing attire of the commoners, except that it was yellow in colour.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Court censors during Emperor Gaozu wore the <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">quefeiguan</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p><a href="/wiki/Emperor_Yang_of_Sui" title="Emperor Yang of Sui">Emperor Yangdi</a> later reformed the dress code in accordance of the ancient customs and news sets of imperial clothing were made.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 605 AD, it was decreed that officials over the fifth-ranks had to dress in crimson or purple, and in 611 AD, any officials who would follow the emperor in expedition together had to wear martial clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:92_115-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:92-115"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>105<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 610 AD, the <i><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">kuzhe</a></i> attire worn by attending officials worn during imperial expeditions was replaced by the <i>rongyi</i> (戎衣) attire.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Emperor Yangdi also wore several kind of imperial headgears, such as <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">wubian</a>,</i> <i>baishamao</i> (白紗帽; <i>white gauze cap</i>), and the <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">wushamao</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Civil officials wore <span title="Chinese-language romanization"><i lang="zh-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">jinxianguan</a></i></span>, and the <i>wushamao</i> was popular and was worn from court officials to commoners.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>quefeiguan</i> was also replaced by the <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">xiezhiguan</a></i>, which could also be used to denote the censor's rank based on the material used.<sup id="cite_ref-:93_114-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:93-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>During the Sui dynasty, an imperial decree which regulated clothing colour stated that lower class could only wear muted blue or black clothing; upper class on the other hand were allowed to wear brighter colours, such as red and blue.<sup id="cite_ref-116" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-116"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>106<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women wore <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a> consisting of short jackets and long skirts.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The women's skirts were characterized with high waistline which created a silhouette which looked similar to the <a href="/wiki/Empire_silhouette" title="Empire silhouette">Empire dresses</a> of <a href="/wiki/First_French_Empire" title="First French Empire">Napoleonic France</a>; however, the construction of the assemble differed from the ones worn in Western countries as Han Chinese women assemble consisted of a separate skirt and upper garment which show low décolletage.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 23–33">: 23–33 </span></sup> In this period, ordinary men did not wear skirts anymore.<sup id="cite_ref-117" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-117"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>107<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_04.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Painted pottery of a female attendant, Sui dynasty (581–618 AD)"><img alt="Painted pottery of a female attendant, Sui dynasty (581–618 AD)" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_04.jpg/120px-Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_04.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_04.jpg/250px-Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_04.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Painted pottery of a female attendant, <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui dynasty</a> (581–618 AD)</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_05.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Painted pottery of a male attendant, Sui dynasty (581–618 AD)"><img alt="Painted pottery of a male attendant, Sui dynasty (581–618 AD)" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/35/Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_05.jpg/120px-Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_05.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/35/Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_05.jpg/250px-Sui_Painted_Pottery_Attendant_05.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3456" data-file-height="5184" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Painted pottery of a male attendant, <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui dynasty</a> (581–618 AD)</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sui_Figurines_of_Musicians_-_a.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Female figurines of musicians, Sui dynasty from Zhang Sheng's Tomb"><img alt="Female figurines of musicians, Sui dynasty from Zhang Sheng's Tomb" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/Sui_Figurines_of_Musicians_-_a.jpg/120px-Sui_Figurines_of_Musicians_-_a.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/Sui_Figurines_of_Musicians_-_a.jpg/250px-Sui_Figurines_of_Musicians_-_a.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3888" data-file-height="2592" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Female figurines of musicians, <a href="/wiki/Sui_dynasty" title="Sui dynasty">Sui dynasty</a> from Zhang Sheng's Tomb</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Jinxianguan_%E4%BA%94%E6%98%9F%E4%BA%8C%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AE%BF%E7%9C%9F%E5%BD%A2%E5%9B%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Jinxianguan, from Five Stars and Twenty-Eight Mansions (五星二十八宿真形图) painting by Liang Lingzan."><img alt="Jinxianguan, from Five Stars and Twenty-Eight Mansions (五星二十八宿真形图) painting by Liang Lingzan." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Jinxianguan_%E4%BA%94%E6%98%9F%E4%BA%8C%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AE%BF%E7%9C%9F%E5%BD%A2%E5%9B%BE.jpg/120px-Jinxianguan_%E4%BA%94%E6%98%9F%E4%BA%8C%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AE%BF%E7%9C%9F%E5%BD%A2%E5%9B%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="94" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Jinxianguan_%E4%BA%94%E6%98%9F%E4%BA%8C%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AE%BF%E7%9C%9F%E5%BD%A2%E5%9B%BE.jpg/250px-Jinxianguan_%E4%BA%94%E6%98%9F%E4%BA%8C%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AE%BF%E7%9C%9F%E5%BD%A2%E5%9B%BE.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="365" data-file-height="464" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><i>Jinxianguan</i>, from <i>Five Stars and Twenty-Eight Mansions</i> (五星二十八宿真形图) painting by Liang Lingzan.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:1810px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston,_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Thirteen Emperors Scroll (歷代帝王圖), depicting emperors in full regalia spanning several dynasties before and after the Sui"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6f/Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg/1800px-Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg" decoding="async" width="1800" height="184" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6f/Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg/2700px-Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6f/Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg/3600px-Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston%2C_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg 2x" data-file-width="8400" data-file-height="858" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption" style="text-align:center"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:Yan_Liben._Thirteen_Emperors._Boston,_Museum_of_the_Fine_Arts.jpg" title="File:Yan Liben. Thirteen Emperors. Boston, Museum of the Fine Arts.jpg"> </a></div><i>Thirteen Emperors Scroll</i> (歷代帝王圖), depicting emperors in full regalia spanning several dynasties before and after the Sui</div></div></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Tang_dynasty_and_Five_dynasties_and_Ten_kingdoms_period">Tang dynasty and Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=11" title="Edit section: Tang dynasty and Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:TangTaizong.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b6/TangTaizong.jpg/250px-TangTaizong.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="311" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b6/TangTaizong.jpg/330px-TangTaizong.jpg 2x" data-file-width="9717" data-file-height="20133" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Emperor_Taizong_of_Tang" title="Emperor Taizong of Tang">Emperor Taizong of Tang</a> in <a href="/wiki/Xianbei" title="Xianbei">Xianbei</a>-influenced Tang fashion. Taizong himself was half <a href="/wiki/Xianbei" title="Xianbei">Xianbei</a> by blood.</figcaption></figure> <p>Many elements of the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> clothing traditions was inherited from the Sui dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> During the Tang dynasty, yellow-coloured robes and shirts were reserved for emperors; a tradition which was kept until the <a href="/wiki/Qing_dynasty" title="Qing dynasty">Qing dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> Moreover, the subjects of the Tang dynasty were forbidden from using <a href="/wiki/Ochre" title="Ochre">ochre</a> yellow colour as <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Gaozu_of_Tang" title="Emperor Gaozu of Tang">Emperor Gaozu</a> used this colour for his informal clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:92_115-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:92-115"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>105<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i> was replaced by <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">futou</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Scholars and officials wore the <i>futou</i> along with the <a href="/wiki/Panling_Lanshan" title="Panling Lanshan">panling lanshan</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:11_118-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:11-118"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>108<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Clothing colours and fabric materials continued to play a role in differentiating ranks; for example, officials of the three upper levels and princes had to wear purple robes; officials above the fifth level had to wear red robes; officials of the sixth and seventh level had to wear green robes; and officials of the eighth and ninth levels had to wear cyan robes.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> Dragons-with-three-claws emblems also started to be depicted on the clothing of court officials above third ranks and on the clothing of princes; these <a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">dragon robes</a> were first documented in 694 AD during the reign of <a href="/wiki/Wu_Zetian" title="Wu Zetian">Empress Wu Zetian</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:53_119-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:53-119"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>109<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 33">: 33 </span></sup> Common people wore white and soldiers wore black.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:810px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Segment of Yan Liben's painting of scholar-officials wearing futou and yuanlingpao typical of Tang dynasty fashion."><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg/960px-K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg" decoding="async" width="800" height="177" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg/1200px-K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg/1600px-K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg 2x" data-file-width="5576" data-file-height="1235" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2_%E5%94%90%E9%96%BB%E7%AB%8B%E6%9C%AC%E5%8D%81%E5%85%AB%E5%AD%B8%E5%A3%AB%E4%BA%8E%E5%BF%97%E5%AF%A7%E6%9B%B8%E8%AE%9A_%E5%8D%B7.jpg" title="File:K2A001545N000000000SDAAA2 唐閻立本十八學士于志寧書讚 卷.jpg"> </a></div>Segment of <a href="/wiki/Yan_Liben" title="Yan Liben">Yan Liben</a>'s painting of scholar-officials wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">futou</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Yuanlingpao" class="mw-redirect" title="Yuanlingpao">yuanlingpao</a></i> typical of Tang dynasty fashion.</div></div></div> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:810px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._(46x180)_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum,_Shenyang..jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses, 7th Century"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/06/Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg/800px-Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg" decoding="async" width="800" height="171" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/06/Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg/1200px-Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/06/Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg/1600px-Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._%2846x180%29_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum%2C_Shenyang..jpg 2x" data-file-width="6455" data-file-height="1378" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:Zhou_Fang._Court_Ladies_Wearing_Flowered_Headdresses._(46x180)_Liaoning_Provincial_Museum,_Shenyang..jpg" title="File:Zhou Fang. Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses. (46x180) Liaoning Provincial Museum, Shenyang..jpg"> </a></div>Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses, 7th Century</div></div></div> <p>Common women's attire in the Tang dynasty included <i>shan</i> (衫; a long overcoat or long blouse), <i>ru</i> (襦; a short sweater), <i><a href="/wiki/Banbi" title="Banbi">banbi</a></i>, <i><a href="/wiki/Pibo" title="Pibo">pibo</a></i> (披帛), and <i>qun</i> (裙; a usually wide, loose skirt which was almost ankle-length). The <i>pibo</i> (披帛), also known as <i>pei</i> (帔) in the Tang dynasty, is a long silk scarf; however it is not used to cover the neck, sometimes it covers the shoulders and other times just hangs from the elbows.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-120" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-120"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>110<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-121" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-121"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>111<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:5_122-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Regardless of social status, women in the Tang dynasty tend to be dressed in 3-parts clothing: the upper garment, the skirt, and the <i>pibo</i> (披帛).<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> During the Tang dynasty, there were 4 kinds of waistline for women's skirts: natural waistline; low waistline; high waistline which reached the bust; and, high waistline above the bust, which could create different kind of women's silhouettes and reflected the ideal images of women of this period.<sup id="cite_ref-:35_123-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:35-123"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>113<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> This Tang dynasty-style ensemble would reappear several times even after the Tang dynasty, notably during the <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> One of the Tang dynasty's ensembles which consisted of a very short, tight-sleeved jackets and an <a href="/wiki/Empire_silhouette" title="Empire silhouette">empire-waisted skirt</a> tied just below the bust-line with ribbons also strongly influenced the Korean <a href="/wiki/Hanbok" title="Hanbok">Hanbok</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The women's clothing in the early Tang dynasty were quite similar to the clothing in the Sui dynasty; the upper garment was a short-sleeved short jacket with a low-cut; the lower garment was a tight-fitting skirt which was tied generally above the waist, but sometimes as high as the armpits, and a scarf was wrapped around the shoulders.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 23–33">: 23–33 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:16_124-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:16-124"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>114<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-125" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-125"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>115<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>banbi</i> was commonly worn on top of a plain top and was worn together with high-waisted, striped or one-colour <a href="/wiki/A-line_(clothing)" title="A-line (clothing)">A-line skirt</a> in the seventh century.<sup id="cite_ref-:5_122-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Red coloured skirts were very popular during the Tang dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 5">: 5 </span></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Early Tang embroidery, from Mogao caves."><img alt="Early Tang embroidery, from Mogao caves." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/51/Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg/120px-Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="97" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/51/Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg/180px-Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/51/Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg/240px-Dunhuang_Mogao_textile_embroidery.jpg 2x" data-file-width="593" data-file-height="479" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Early Tang embroidery, from <a href="/wiki/Mogao_caves" class="mw-redirect" title="Mogao caves">Mogao caves</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tonfigur_T%C3%A4nzerin_Liebieghaus_885.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Female dancer wearing a tanling ruqun, early Tang, 7th century AD."><img alt="Female dancer wearing a tanling ruqun, early Tang, 7th century AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3c/Tonfigur_T%C3%A4nzerin_Liebieghaus_885.jpg/120px-Tonfigur_T%C3%A4nzerin_Liebieghaus_885.jpg" decoding="async" width="78" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3c/Tonfigur_T%C3%A4nzerin_Liebieghaus_885.jpg/250px-Tonfigur_T%C3%A4nzerin_Liebieghaus_885.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2176" data-file-height="3360" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Female dancer wearing a <a href="/wiki/Tanling_ruqun" title="Tanling ruqun">tanling ruqun</a>, early Tang, 7th century AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_Group_of_T%27ang_Dynasty_Musicians_from_the_Tomb_of_Li_Shou_(%E6%9D%8E%E5%A3%BD).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Group of Tang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou (李壽) (577-630 AD), early Tang dynasty."><img alt="A Group of Tang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou (李壽) (577-630 AD), early Tang dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/A_Group_of_T%27ang_Dynasty_Musicians_from_the_Tomb_of_Li_Shou_%28%E6%9D%8E%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg/120px-A_Group_of_T%27ang_Dynasty_Musicians_from_the_Tomb_of_Li_Shou_%28%E6%9D%8E%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/A_Group_of_T%27ang_Dynasty_Musicians_from_the_Tomb_of_Li_Shou_%28%E6%9D%8E%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg/250px-A_Group_of_T%27ang_Dynasty_Musicians_from_the_Tomb_of_Li_Shou_%28%E6%9D%8E%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="740" data-file-height="1017" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Group of Tang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou (李壽) (577-630 AD), early <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_T%27ang_Dynasty_Woman_with_Flower.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Tang Dynasty Woman with Flower, dressed in ruqun."><img alt="A Tang Dynasty Woman with Flower, dressed in ruqun." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/A_T%27ang_Dynasty_Woman_with_Flower.jpg/120px-A_T%27ang_Dynasty_Woman_with_Flower.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/A_T%27ang_Dynasty_Woman_with_Flower.jpg/250px-A_T%27ang_Dynasty_Woman_with_Flower.jpg 2x" data-file-width="540" data-file-height="960" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Tang Dynasty Woman with Flower, dressed in <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Court_Ladies_of_the_Tang.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Court ladies of the Tang from Li Xianhui's tomb, Qianling Mausoleum, dated 706."><img alt="Court ladies of the Tang from Li Xianhui's tomb, Qianling Mausoleum, dated 706." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Court_Ladies_of_the_Tang.jpg/120px-Court_Ladies_of_the_Tang.jpg" decoding="async" width="109" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Court_Ladies_of_the_Tang.jpg/250px-Court_Ladies_of_the_Tang.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1181" data-file-height="1298" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Court ladies of the Tang from Li Xianhui's tomb, <a href="/wiki/Qianling_Mausoleum" title="Qianling Mausoleum">Qianling Mausoleum</a>, dated 706.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_Young_Girl,_Fresco_from_the_Tomb_of_An_Y%C3%BCen-shou_(%E5%AE%89%E5%85%83%E5%A3%BD).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Young Girl, Fresco from the Tomb of An Yüen-shou (安元壽) (607-683 A.D.), early Tang dynasty."><img alt="A Young Girl, Fresco from the Tomb of An Yüen-shou (安元壽) (607-683 A.D.), early Tang dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1c/A_Young_Girl%2C_Fresco_from_the_Tomb_of_An_Y%C3%BCen-shou_%28%E5%AE%89%E5%85%83%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg/120px-A_Young_Girl%2C_Fresco_from_the_Tomb_of_An_Y%C3%BCen-shou_%28%E5%AE%89%E5%85%83%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1c/A_Young_Girl%2C_Fresco_from_the_Tomb_of_An_Y%C3%BCen-shou_%28%E5%AE%89%E5%85%83%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg/250px-A_Young_Girl%2C_Fresco_from_the_Tomb_of_An_Y%C3%BCen-shou_%28%E5%AE%89%E5%85%83%E5%A3%BD%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="919" data-file-height="1635" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Young Girl, Fresco from the Tomb of An Yüen-shou (安元壽) (607-683 A.D.), early <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%94%90%E5%90%8E%E8%A1%8C%E5%BE%9E%E5%9C%96_(%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8)_-_%E6%AD%A6%E5%89%87%E5%A4%A9.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Wu Zetian depicted on Tang Empress' Travel-painting."><img alt="Wu Zetian depicted on Tang Empress' Travel-painting." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/25/%E5%94%90%E5%90%8E%E8%A1%8C%E5%BE%9E%E5%9C%96_%28%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8%29_-_%E6%AD%A6%E5%89%87%E5%A4%A9.png/120px-%E5%94%90%E5%90%8E%E8%A1%8C%E5%BE%9E%E5%9C%96_%28%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8%29_-_%E6%AD%A6%E5%89%87%E5%A4%A9.png" decoding="async" width="68" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/25/%E5%94%90%E5%90%8E%E8%A1%8C%E5%BE%9E%E5%9C%96_%28%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8%29_-_%E6%AD%A6%E5%89%87%E5%A4%A9.png/250px-%E5%94%90%E5%90%8E%E8%A1%8C%E5%BE%9E%E5%9C%96_%28%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8%29_-_%E6%AD%A6%E5%89%87%E5%A4%A9.png 2x" data-file-width="1080" data-file-height="1912" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Wu Zetian depicted on <i>Tang Empress' Travel</i>-painting.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:810px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto;direction:rtl"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_(cropped).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="8th Century Court Ladies Preparing Silk"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3a/Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg/960px-Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="800" height="206" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3a/Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg/1200px-Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3a/Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg/1600px-Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_%28cropped%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="11692" data-file-height="3010" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:Court_Ladies_Preparing_Newly_Woven_Silk_(cropped).jpg" title="File:Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk (cropped).jpg"> </a></div>8th Century Court Ladies Preparing Silk</div></div></div> <p>In the middle of the Tang dynasty, women who had a plump appearance were favoured; thus, the clothing became looser, the sleeves became longer and wider, the upper garment became strapless, and a silk unlined upper garment was worn; they wore <i><a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">"breast dresses"</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:14_126-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:14-126"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>116<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> This change in the ideal corporal shape of women's bodies has been attributed to a beloved consort of <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Xuanzong_of_Tang" title="Emperor Xuanzong of Tang">Emperor Xuanzong of Tang</a>, called <a href="/wiki/Yang_Guifei" title="Yang Guifei">Yang Guifei</a>, although archeological evidence shows that this ideal of the female body had emerged before Yang Guifei's ascension to power in the imperial court.<sup id="cite_ref-:9_127-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:9-127"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>117<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tang_Dynasty-Fat_Lady_holding_a_Dog.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="A sancai figurine of a plump lady holding a Dog, Tang dynasty."><img alt="A sancai figurine of a plump lady holding a Dog, Tang dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/Tang_Dynasty-Fat_Lady_holding_a_Dog.JPG/120px-Tang_Dynasty-Fat_Lady_holding_a_Dog.JPG" decoding="async" width="61" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/Tang_Dynasty-Fat_Lady_holding_a_Dog.JPG/250px-Tang_Dynasty-Fat_Lady_holding_a_Dog.JPG 2x" data-file-width="1665" data-file-height="3262" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <i>sancai</i> figurine of a plump lady holding a Dog, Tang dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sancai_glazed_female_figurine_Tang_dynasty_618-907.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Sancai glazed female figurine Tang dynasty 618–907."><img alt="Sancai glazed female figurine Tang dynasty 618–907." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a0/Sancai_glazed_female_figurine_Tang_dynasty_618-907.jpg/120px-Sancai_glazed_female_figurine_Tang_dynasty_618-907.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a0/Sancai_glazed_female_figurine_Tang_dynasty_618-907.jpg/250px-Sancai_glazed_female_figurine_Tang_dynasty_618-907.jpg 2x" data-file-width="572" data-file-height="1024" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Sancai glazed female figurine Tang dynasty 618–907.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tang_Dynasty,_sancai_pottery,_woman_figurine.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Tang Dynasty, sancai pottery, woman figurine."><img alt="Tang Dynasty, sancai pottery, woman figurine." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Tang_Dynasty%2C_sancai_pottery%2C_woman_figurine.JPG/120px-Tang_Dynasty%2C_sancai_pottery%2C_woman_figurine.JPG" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Tang_Dynasty%2C_sancai_pottery%2C_woman_figurine.JPG/250px-Tang_Dynasty%2C_sancai_pottery%2C_woman_figurine.JPG 2x" data-file-width="427" data-file-height="640" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Tang Dynasty, sancai pottery, woman figurine.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Courtesan1.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Anonymous-Astana Graves Courtesan, c. 744, Tang dynasty."><img alt="Anonymous-Astana Graves Courtesan, c. 744, Tang dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b5/Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Courtesan1.jpg/120px-Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Courtesan1.jpg" decoding="async" width="89" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b5/Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Courtesan1.jpg/250px-Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Courtesan1.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1425" data-file-height="1917" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Anonymous-Astana Graves Courtesan, <abbr title="circa">c.</abbr><span style="white-space:nowrap;"> 744</span>, Tang dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_palace_concert.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Women wearing qixiong ruqun, Painting of "A palace concert", Tang dynasty, c.836 - 907."><img alt="Women wearing qixiong ruqun, Painting of "A palace concert", Tang dynasty, c.836 - 907." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/A_palace_concert.jpg/120px-A_palace_concert.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="84" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/A_palace_concert.jpg/250px-A_palace_concert.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2714" data-file-height="1904" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Women wearing <a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">qixiong ruqun</a>, Painting of <a href="/wiki/A_Palace_Concert" title="A Palace Concert">"A palace concert"</a>, Tang dynasty, c.836 - 907.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:1410px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto;direction:rtl"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_(or_Lady_With_Fan)._(33,7x204,8)_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Lady With Servants attributed to Zhou Fang, 8th century CE."><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg/1400px-Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg" decoding="async" width="1400" height="240" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg/2100px-Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg/2800px-Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_%28or_Lady_With_Fan%29._%2833%2C7x204%2C8%29_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg 2x" data-file-width="5625" data-file-height="966" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:Zhou_Fang._Lady_With_Servants_(or_Lady_With_Fan)._(33,7x204,8)_Beijing_Palace_Museum.jpg" title="File:Zhou Fang. Lady With Servants (or Lady With Fan). (33,7x204,8) Beijing Palace Museum.jpg"> </a></div><i>Lady With Servants</i> attributed to Zhou Fang, 8th century CE.</div></div></div> <p>Another form of popular fashion in women's attire during the Tang dynasty was the wearing of male clothing; it was fashionable for women to dress in male attire in public and in everyday live, especially during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao (742 -756 AD) periods; this fashion started among the members of the nobility and the court maids and gradually spread in the community.<sup id="cite_ref-128" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-128"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>118<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:14_126-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:14-126"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>116<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Men's attire during the Tang dynasty usually included robes which was worn with trousers, <i><a href="/wiki/Yuanlingshan" title="Yuanlingshan">yuanlingpao</a></i>, belt worn at the waist, <i>futou</i>, and dark leather boots.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:6_129-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:6-129"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>119<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Tang dynasty inherited all the forms of belts which were worn in the <a href="/wiki/Six_Dynasties" title="Six Dynasties">Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties</a> and adopted them in the official costumes of the military and civil officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:89_85-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:89-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 384–417">: 384–417 </span></sup> In some instances, however, Han Chinese-style robes continued to be depicted in art showing court officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:39_55-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:39-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the Tang dynasty, the <i>yuanlingpao</i> was worn by both men and women.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Prince_Zhanghuai%27s_tomb,_eunuchs.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="A group of eunuchs, Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, Tang dynasty, 706 AD."><img alt="A group of eunuchs, Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, Tang dynasty, 706 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Prince_Zhanghuai%27s_tomb%2C_eunuchs.JPG/120px-Prince_Zhanghuai%27s_tomb%2C_eunuchs.JPG" decoding="async" width="118" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Prince_Zhanghuai%27s_tomb%2C_eunuchs.JPG/250px-Prince_Zhanghuai%27s_tomb%2C_eunuchs.JPG 1.5x" data-file-width="2628" data-file-height="2666" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A group of eunuchs, <a href="/wiki/Prince_Zhanghuai" title="Prince Zhanghuai">Prince Zhanghuai</a>'s tomb, <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>, 706 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Figures_in_a_cortege,_tomb_of_Li_Xian,_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Figures in a cortege wearing round-collar robe, from a wall mural in the Tang Dynasty Chinese tomb of Li Xian, 706 AD."><img alt="Figures in a cortege wearing round-collar robe, from a wall mural in the Tang Dynasty Chinese tomb of Li Xian, 706 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/85px-Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="85" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/128px-Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/171px-Figures_in_a_cortege%2C_tomb_of_Li_Xian%2C_Tang_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1693" data-file-height="2374" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Figures in a cortege wearing round-collar robe, from a wall mural in the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang Dynasty</a> Chinese tomb of Li Xian, 706 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Li_Xian%27s_tomb,_palace_ladies.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Palace ladies; from Li Xian's tomb, Tang dynasty, 706 AD. The girl in the middle is wearing a yuanlingpao."><img alt="Palace ladies; from Li Xian's tomb, Tang dynasty, 706 AD. The girl in the middle is wearing a yuanlingpao." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Li_Xian%27s_tomb%2C_palace_ladies.jpg/120px-Li_Xian%27s_tomb%2C_palace_ladies.jpg" decoding="async" width="113" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Li_Xian%27s_tomb%2C_palace_ladies.jpg/250px-Li_Xian%27s_tomb%2C_palace_ladies.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2887" data-file-height="3065" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Palace ladies; from Li Xian's tomb, <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>, 706 AD. The girl in the middle is wearing a <i>yuanlingpao</i>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Servant_Girl1.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Female servant in Tang dynasty dressed in a yuanlingpao; mid 8th century AD."><img alt="Female servant in Tang dynasty dressed in a yuanlingpao; mid 8th century AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Servant_Girl1.jpg/60px-Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Servant_Girl1.jpg" decoding="async" width="41" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Servant_Girl1.jpg/120px-Anonymous-Astana_Graves_Servant_Girl1.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="612" data-file-height="1798" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Female servant in <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> dressed in a <i>yuanlingpao</i>; mid 8th century AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB5.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men wearing round collar gowns with boots, belt, trousers; Mural painting from the Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period."><img alt="Men wearing round collar gowns with boots, belt, trousers; Mural painting from the Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB5.jpg/120px-%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB5.jpg" decoding="async" width="78" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB5.jpg/250px-%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB5.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1492" data-file-height="2300" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men wearing round collar gowns with boots, belt, trousers; Mural painting from the Tomb of <a href="/wiki/Wang_Chuzhi" title="Wang Chuzhi">Wang Chuzhi</a>, <a href="/wiki/Five_Dynasties_and_Ten_Kingdoms_period" title="Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period">Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms period</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>The shoes worn by Han Chinese were <i>lü</i> (履)<i>,</i> <i>xi</i> (shoes with thick soles), women's boots, and <i>ji</i> (屐; wooden clogs) with two spikes were worn when walking outside on muddy roads; in the South, <i>xueji</i> (靴屐; a type of boot-like clog) was developed.<sup id="cite_ref-:6_129-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:6-129"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>119<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some shoes were commonly curved in the front and were phoenix-shaped.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 5">: 5 </span></sup> </p><p>The Tang dynasty represents a golden age in China's history, where the arts, sciences and economy were thriving. Female dress and personal adornments in particular reflected the new visions of this era, which saw unprecedented trade and interaction with cultures and philosophies alien to Chinese borders. Although it still continues the clothing of its predecessors such as Han and Sui dynasties, fashion during the Tang dynasty was also influenced by its cosmopolitan culture and art. Where previously Chinese women had been restricted by the old Confucian code to closely wrapped, concealing outfits, female dress in the Tang dynasty gradually became more relaxed, less constricting and even more revealing.<sup id="cite_ref-130" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-130"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>120<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Tang dynasty also saw the ready acceptance, and syncretisation with Chinese practices, of elements of foreign culture by the Han Chinese. The foreign influences prevalent during Tang China included cultures from <a href="/wiki/Gandhara" title="Gandhara">Gandhara</a>, <a href="/wiki/Turkestan" title="Turkestan">Turkestan</a>, <a href="/wiki/Persian_culture" class="mw-redirect" title="Persian culture">Persia</a> and <a href="/wiki/Hellenistic_civilization" class="mw-redirect" title="Hellenistic civilization">Greece</a>. The stylistic influences of these cultures were fused into Tang-style clothing without any one particular culture having special prominence.<sup id="cite_ref-:55_74-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:55-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-131" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-131"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>121<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Tang-PolychromeGlazedFigurineOfWomanWithParrot-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/Tang-PolychromeGlazedFigurineOfWomanWithParrot-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg/250px-Tang-PolychromeGlazedFigurineOfWomanWithParrot-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg" decoding="async" width="152" height="323" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/Tang-PolychromeGlazedFigurineOfWomanWithParrot-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg/330px-Tang-PolychromeGlazedFigurineOfWomanWithParrot-ShanghaiMuseum-May27-08.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1638" data-file-height="3474" /></a><figcaption>Woman wearing <a href="/wiki/Fanlingpao" title="Fanlingpao">fanlingpao</a>, Tang dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Woman_wearing_hufu_in_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/87/Woman_wearing_hufu_in_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Woman_wearing_hufu_in_Tang_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="81" height="261" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/87/Woman_wearing_hufu_in_Tang_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Woman_wearing_hufu_in_Tang_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="442" data-file-height="1413" /></a><figcaption>Woman wearing <a href="/wiki/Fanlingpao" title="Fanlingpao">kuapao-style</a> hufu, Tang dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>An example of foreign influence on Tang women's clothing is the use of garments with a low-cut neckline.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women were also allowed to fashion themselves in <i>hufu</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-132" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-132"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:7_133-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:7-133"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>122<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:10_134-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:10-134"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>123<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:5_122-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Popular menswear such as Persian-style round collared robes with tight sleeves and a central band decorated with flowers on the front was also popular among the Tang dynasty's women;<sup id="cite_ref-:37_110-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:37-110"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>100<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> this Persian-style round collared robe is different from the local worn <i>yuanlingpao</i>. Long Persian trousers and knickers were also worn by women as a result of the cultural and economic exchanges which took place.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Striped trousers were also worn.<sup id="cite_ref-:35_123-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:35-123"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>113<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Chinese trousers during this period were narrow compared to the <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">dashao</a></i> and the <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">dakouku</a></i> which were worn in the preceding dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the 7th and 8th centuries, the <i><a href="/wiki/Fanlingpao" title="Fanlingpao">kuapao</a>,</i> which originated from <a href="/wiki/Central_Asia" title="Central Asia">Central Asia</a> could be worn by men and were also used as main garment for cross-dressing attendants or could be draped across the shoulders like a cloak.<sup id="cite_ref-:37_110-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:37-110"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>100<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 311">: 311 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-135" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-135"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>124<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The headwear of women during the Tang dynasty also demonstrates evidence of foreign clothing inclusion in their attire. In the Taizong era, women wore a burqa-like <i><a href="/wiki/Mili_(veil)" title="Mili (veil)">mili</a></i> which concealed the entire body when horse back riding; the trend changed to the use of <i><a href="/wiki/Weimao_(hat)" class="mw-redirect" title="Weimao (hat)">weimao</a></i> during the reign of <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Gaozong_of_Tang" title="Emperor Gaozong of Tang">Emperor Gaozong of Tang</a> and Wu Zetian; and after that, during the early reign of <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Xuanzong_of_Tang" title="Emperor Xuanzong of Tang">Emperor Xuanzong of Tang</a>, women started wearing a veil-less hat called <i><a href="/wiki/Humao" title="Humao">humao</a></i>; women eventually stopped wearing hats when horse riding, and by the 750's, women dressing in men's garments became popular.<sup id="cite_ref-:7_133-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:7-133"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>122<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:6_129-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:6-129"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>119<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:125_136-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:125-136"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>125<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Noble women of the Tang dynasty wore the veil, and after the <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Gaozong_of_Tang#Yonghui_era_(650–656)" title="Emperor Gaozong of Tang">Yonghui reign</a> the veil with hat was worn.<sup id="cite_ref-137" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-137"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>126<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-138" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-138"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>127<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-139" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-139"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>128<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> After the mid-seventh century, the social expectation that women had to hide their faces in public disappeared.<sup id="cite_ref-:86_111-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:86-111"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>101<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>It was also fashionable for noble women to wear <i><a href="/wiki/Fanlingpao#Huihuzuang" title="Fanlingpao">Huihuzhuang</a></i> after the <a href="/wiki/An_Lushan_Rebellion" class="mw-redirect" title="An Lushan Rebellion">An Lushan Rebellion</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:8_140-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:8-140"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>129<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:5_122-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:9_127-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:9-127"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>117<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-中国传统服饰_141-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-中国传统服饰-141"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>130<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Another trend which emerged after the An Lushan Rebellion is the sad and depressed-look while looking exquisite which reflected the instability of the political situation in this period.<sup id="cite_ref-142" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-142"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>131<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Of note, just like women in the Tang dynasty period incorporated Central Asian-styles in their clothing, Central Asian women were also wearing some Hanfu-style clothing from the Tang dynasty and/or would combine elements of the Han Chinese-style attire and ornamental aesthetic in their ethnic attire.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 74">: 74 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-144" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-144"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>133<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 840 AD, the <a href="/wiki/Uyghur_Khaganate" title="Uyghur Khaganate">Uyghur empire</a> collapsed, the Uyghur refugees fled to <a href="/wiki/Xinjiang" title="Xinjiang">Xinjiang</a> and to the Southeast of Tang frontier to seek refuge, and in 843 AD, all the Uighur living in China had to wear Chinese-style clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-145" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-145"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>134<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The influence of <i>hufu</i> eventually faded after the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">High Tang period</a>, and women's clothing gradually regained a broad, loose fitting, and more traditional Han style.<sup id="cite_ref-:10_134-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:10-134"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>123<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:16_124-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:16-124"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>114<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The sleeve width of garments for ordinary women was more than 1.3 meters.<sup id="cite_ref-:10_134-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:10-134"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>123<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Daxiushan" title="Daxiushan">daxiushan</a>,</i> for example, was made of an almost transparent, thin silk; it featured beautiful designs and patterns and its sleeves were so broad that it was more than 1.3 meters.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Based on the painting, "<i>Court ladies adorning their hair with flowers</i>" <i>(簪花仕女圖; Zanhua shinü tu</i>), a painting attributed to the painter <a href="/wiki/Zhou_Fang_(Tang_dynasty)" title="Zhou Fang (Tang dynasty)">Zhou Fang</a>, women's clothing was depicted as a sleeveless gown which was worn under a robe with wide sleeves, with the use of a shawl as an ornament; some of the women painted are fashioned with skirts while others are seen wearing an overskirt above an underskirt; it is speculated that shawls and cloaks during this period were made from a silk-netted sheer gauze fabric material.<sup id="cite_ref-:9_127-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:9-127"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>117<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:5_122-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:5-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tang-4_(cropped).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Tang dynasty noblewoman"><img alt="Tang dynasty noblewoman" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Tang-4_%28cropped%29.jpg/120px-Tang-4_%28cropped%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="94" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Tang-4_%28cropped%29.jpg/250px-Tang-4_%28cropped%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="618" data-file-height="790" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Tang dynasty noblewoman</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chou_Fang_003.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A painting of Tang dynasty women playing with a dog, by artist Zhou Fang, 8th century."><img alt="A painting of Tang dynasty women playing with a dog, by artist Zhou Fang, 8th century." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Chou_Fang_003.jpg/120px-Chou_Fang_003.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="92" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Chou_Fang_003.jpg/250px-Chou_Fang_003.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="670" data-file-height="515" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A painting of <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> women playing with a dog, by artist <a href="/wiki/Zhou_Fang_(Tang_Dynasty)" class="mw-redirect" title="Zhou Fang (Tang Dynasty)">Zhou Fang</a>, 8th century.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Buddhist_donors_from_Cave_98_at_Mo-kao.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Buddhist donors"><img alt="Buddhist donors" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Buddhist_donors_from_Cave_98_at_Mo-kao.jpg/120px-Buddhist_donors_from_Cave_98_at_Mo-kao.jpg" decoding="async" width="105" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Buddhist_donors_from_Cave_98_at_Mo-kao.jpg/250px-Buddhist_donors_from_Cave_98_at_Mo-kao.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="982" data-file-height="1118" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Buddhist donors</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume,_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Buddhist donors of late Tang dynasty."><img alt="Buddhist donors of late Tang dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg/82px-Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg" decoding="async" width="82" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg/123px-Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg/165px-Buddhist_donors_in_T%27ang_costume%2C_Mo-kao_Cave.jpg 2x" data-file-width="690" data-file-height="1005" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Buddhist donors of late <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way,_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao,_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A noble lady from the painting Bodhisattva Who Leads the Way, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms."><img alt="A noble lady from the painting Bodhisattva Who Leads the Way, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e9/Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg/67px-Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e9/Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg/100px-Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e9/Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg/134px-Female_figure_from_Bodhisattva_Who_Leads_the_Way%2C_from_Cave_17_at_Mo-kao%2C_Mus%C3%A9e_Guimet.jpg 2x" data-file-width="269" data-file-height="482" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A noble lady from the painting <i>Bodhisattva Who Leads the Way</i>, <a href="/wiki/Five_Dynasties_and_Ten_Kingdoms" class="mw-redirect" title="Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms">Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Buddhist_donatress_Chang,_Mo-kao_Caves.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Buddhist donatress Chang, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms."><img alt="Buddhist donatress Chang, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/Buddhist_donatress_Chang%2C_Mo-kao_Caves.jpg/120px-Buddhist_donatress_Chang%2C_Mo-kao_Caves.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="108" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/Buddhist_donatress_Chang%2C_Mo-kao_Caves.jpg/250px-Buddhist_donatress_Chang%2C_Mo-kao_Caves.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1438" data-file-height="1291" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Buddhist donatress Chang, <a href="/wiki/Five_Dynasties_and_Ten_Kingdoms" class="mw-redirect" title="Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms">Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:CapitalMuseum18.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Lady musicians in a raised-relief, Tomb of Wang Chuzhi (d. 923AD) from the Capital Museum in Beijing, dated to the Five Dynasties and the Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960 AD)."><img alt="Lady musicians in a raised-relief, Tomb of Wang Chuzhi (d. 923AD) from the Capital Museum in Beijing, dated to the Five Dynasties and the Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960 AD)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/CapitalMuseum18.jpg/120px-CapitalMuseum18.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="82" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/CapitalMuseum18.jpg/250px-CapitalMuseum18.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1600" data-file-height="1088" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Lady musicians in a raised-relief, Tomb of Wang Chuzhi (d. 923AD) from the Capital Museum in Beijing, dated to the <a href="/wiki/Five_Dynasties_and_the_Ten_Kingdoms_Period" class="mw-redirect" title="Five Dynasties and the Ten Kingdoms Period">Five Dynasties and the Ten Kingdoms Period</a> (907-960 AD).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB3.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Mural of Wang Chuzhi tomb, Southern Tang."><img alt="Mural of Wang Chuzhi tomb, Southern Tang." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/91/%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB3.jpg/120px-%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB3.jpg" decoding="async" width="83" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/91/%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB3.jpg/250px-%E7%8E%8B%E8%99%95%E7%9B%B4%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB3.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="532" data-file-height="765" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mural of <a href="/wiki/Wang_Chuzhi" title="Wang Chuzhi">Wang Chuzhi</a> tomb, Southern Tang.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%D0%A7%D0%B6%D0%BE%D1%83_%D0%92%D1%8D%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%86%D0%B7%D1%8E%D0%B9_2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Women of Southern Tang holding a baby, 10th century AD."><img alt="Women of Southern Tang holding a baby, 10th century AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/%D0%A7%D0%B6%D0%BE%D1%83_%D0%92%D1%8D%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%86%D0%B7%D1%8E%D0%B9_2.jpg/120px-%D0%A7%D0%B6%D0%BE%D1%83_%D0%92%D1%8D%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%86%D0%B7%D1%8E%D0%B9_2.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/%D0%A7%D0%B6%D0%BE%D1%83_%D0%92%D1%8D%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%86%D0%B7%D1%8E%D0%B9_2.jpg/250px-%D0%A7%D0%B6%D0%BE%D1%83_%D0%92%D1%8D%D0%BD%D1%8C%D1%86%D0%B7%D1%8E%D0%B9_2.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="380" data-file-height="566" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Women of <a href="/wiki/Southern_Tang" title="Southern Tang">Southern Tang</a> holding a baby, 10th century AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Gu_Hongzhong_13.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men and women in the Night Revels of Han Xizai painting, copy after the original painting of Southern Tang painter, Gu Hongzhong."><img alt="Men and women in the Night Revels of Han Xizai painting, copy after the original painting of Southern Tang painter, Gu Hongzhong." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Gu_Hongzhong_13.jpg/120px-Gu_Hongzhong_13.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="35" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Gu_Hongzhong_13.jpg/250px-Gu_Hongzhong_13.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3057" data-file-height="900" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men and women in the <a href="/wiki/The_Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai" title="The Night Revels of Han Xizai">Night Revels of Han Xizai</a> painting, copy after the original painting of <a href="/wiki/Southern_Tang" title="Southern Tang">Southern Tang</a> painter, <a href="/wiki/Gu_Hongzhong" title="Gu Hongzhong">Gu Hongzhong</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai_pipa_player.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men and women in the Night Revels of Han Xizai painting, copy after the original painting of Southern Tang painter, Gu Hongzhong."><img alt="Men and women in the Night Revels of Han Xizai painting, copy after the original painting of Southern Tang painter, Gu Hongzhong." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai_pipa_player.jpg/120px-Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai_pipa_player.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="45" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai_pipa_player.jpg/250px-Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai_pipa_player.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1060" data-file-height="396" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men and women in the <a href="/wiki/The_Night_Revels_of_Han_Xizai" title="The Night Revels of Han Xizai">Night Revels of Han Xizai</a> painting, copy after the original painting of <a href="/wiki/Southern_Tang" title="Southern Tang">Southern Tang</a> painter, <a href="/wiki/Gu_Hongzhong" title="Gu Hongzhong">Gu Hongzhong</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg/69px-A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg" decoding="async" width="69" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg/104px-A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg/138px-A_late_T%27ang_dynasty_Buddhist_donatress.jpg 2x" data-file-width="192" data-file-height="333" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Buddhist_donors,_Guiyi_era.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Buddhist donor from early Northern Song dynasty."><img alt="A Buddhist donor from early Northern Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Buddhist_donors%2C_Guiyi_era.jpg/120px-Buddhist_donors%2C_Guiyi_era.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="87" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Buddhist_donors%2C_Guiyi_era.jpg/250px-Buddhist_donors%2C_Guiyi_era.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="750" data-file-height="541" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Buddhist donor from early <a href="/wiki/Northern_Song_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Northern Song dynasty">Northern Song dynasty</a>. </div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Song_dynasty">Song dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=12" title="Edit section: Song dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/Popular_fashion_in_ancient_China" title="Popular fashion in ancient China">Popular fashion in ancient China</a></div> <figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Zhezong.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Zhezong.jpg/330px-Zhezong.jpg" decoding="async" width="300" height="365" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Zhezong.jpg/500px-Zhezong.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Zhezong.jpg/960px-Zhezong.jpg 2x" data-file-width="13206" data-file-height="16082" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Emperor_Zhezong" title="Emperor Zhezong">Emperor Zhezong</a>(1077-1100); in accordance with the <a href="/wiki/Culture_of_the_Song_dynasty" title="Culture of the Song dynasty">Song's governing philosophy</a>, its <a href="/wiki/List_of_emperors_of_the_Song_dynasty" title="List of emperors of the Song dynasty">emperors</a> wore the same clothing as their ministers.</figcaption></figure> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a> clothing system was established at the beginning of the <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty#Northern_Song,_960–1127" title="Song dynasty">Northern Song dynasty</a>. Clothes could be classified into two major types: officials garments (further differentiated between court clothing and daily wear), and the garment for ordinary people.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> Some features of <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> clothing were carried into the Song dynasty, such as court dress.<sup id="cite_ref-:18_147-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:18-147"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>136<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Song dynasty court dress often used red colour, with accessories made of different colours and materials, black leather shoes and hats.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:18_147-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:18-147"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>136<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The officials had specific clothing for different occasions: (1) the sacrificial dress, a vermillion colour garment worn when attending ancestral temple or grand ceremonies, which they had to wear with the proper hats, i.e. <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">jinxianguan</a></i>, <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">diaochanguan</a>, and</i> <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">xiezhiguan</a>;</i> (2) the court dress, which was worn when attending court meeting held by the Emperor and sometimes during sacrificial rituals; and (3) the official gown, worn daily by officials who held ranks.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> </p><p> The form of officials' daily dresses had the same design regardless of rank: <a href="/wiki/Yuanlingshan" title="Yuanlingshan">yuanlingpao</a> with long and loose sleeves; however, the officials were bound to wear different colours according to ranks.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> As the Song dynasty followed the Tang dynasty's clothing system, officials of third ranks and above wore purple gown; fifth ranks officials wore vermillion gown; seventh ranks officials and above wore green gowns; and the ninth rank officials and above wore black gown.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> However, after the <i>Yuanfeng period</i>, changes were imposed on the colour system of the official gowns: officials of the fourth rank and above wore purple gown, the sixth rank and above wore crimson gown; and the ninth rank and above officials wore green gown; this noted the removal of black colour as a colour for the official dress.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> Officials also wore leather belts and kerchiefs as ornaments.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> If senior officials were allowed to wear purple or crimson official garments, they had to wear a silver or gold <a href="/wiki/Fu_(tally)#Fish_tally/_yufu/_yudai" title="Fu (tally)">fish-shaped bag</a> as ornament.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-20" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> The official gown were worn with different styles of <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">futou</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i>. For example, <i>jinxianguan</i> was worn by general officials; <i>diaochanguan</i> was worn by senior officials; and <i>xiezhiguan</i> was worn by enforcement officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> Flowers pinning was a well-liked custom in the Song dynasty; people regardless of their age, gender, and social ranks would pin flowers on themselves; these flowers could be either artificial flowers (i.e. made of silk, rice-paper plant flower, coloured glaze flower, etc.) or natural fresh flowers.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 645–648">: 645–648 </span></sup> Since the early Song dynasty, the Emperor would bestow valuable flowers to his officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 645–648">: 645–648 </span></sup> Court eunuchs would pin flowers on the futou of the Princes and the Grand councillors whereas other officials would also ornate their futou with flowers by themselves.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 645–648">: 645–648 </span></sup> This custom was developed and extended up until Southern Song, when regulations on the number of flowers which could be worn based on the official's rank were made.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 645–648">: 645–648 </span></sup> These rules on these flower ornaments on <i>futou</i> could not be broken without permission.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 645–648">: 645–648 </span></sup> The apparels for court gathering in the Song dynasty was <i><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">tongtianguanfu</a></i>; it was worn by the most senior officials who served the emperor directly; it was the most important clothing after the clothing worn by the emperor.<sup id="cite_ref-中国传统服饰_141-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-中国传统服饰-141"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>130<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Male_Buddhist_Donor,_Northern_Sung_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Male Buddhist Donor, Northern Song dynasty, 981 AD."><img alt="Male Buddhist Donor, Northern Song dynasty, 981 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d1/Male_Buddhist_Donor%2C_Northern_Sung_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Male_Buddhist_Donor%2C_Northern_Sung_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d1/Male_Buddhist_Donor%2C_Northern_Sung_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Male_Buddhist_Donor%2C_Northern_Sung_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="449" data-file-height="675" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Male Buddhist Donor, <a href="/wiki/Northern_Song_Dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Northern Song Dynasty">Northern Song dynasty</a>, 981 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Ma_Yuan_-_Dancing_and_Singing-_Peasants_Returning_from_Work_-_Detail_3.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Peasants returning from work, Song dynasty."><img alt="Peasants returning from work, Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Ma_Yuan_-_Dancing_and_Singing-_Peasants_Returning_from_Work_-_Detail_3.jpg/120px-Ma_Yuan_-_Dancing_and_Singing-_Peasants_Returning_from_Work_-_Detail_3.jpg" decoding="async" width="84" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Ma_Yuan_-_Dancing_and_Singing-_Peasants_Returning_from_Work_-_Detail_3.jpg/250px-Ma_Yuan_-_Dancing_and_Singing-_Peasants_Returning_from_Work_-_Detail_3.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="900" data-file-height="1280" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Peasants returning from work, <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chao_Yen_001.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Polo players, Song dynasty."><img alt="Polo players, Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7a/Chao_Yen_001.jpg/99px-Chao_Yen_001.jpg" decoding="async" width="99" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7a/Chao_Yen_001.jpg/149px-Chao_Yen_001.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7a/Chao_Yen_001.jpg/198px-Chao_Yen_001.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1576" data-file-height="1905" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Polo players, <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Song dynasty imperial procession, Northern Song."><img alt="Song dynasty imperial procession, Northern Song." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1e/Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg/98px-Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg" decoding="async" width="98" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1e/Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg/147px-Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1e/Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg/197px-Sung_dynasty_imperial_procession4.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1225" data-file-height="1495" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Song dynasty imperial procession, Northern Song.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_(%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Song dynasty ritual ceremony, with officials attending in ceremonial chaofu (朝服)."><img alt="Song dynasty ritual ceremony, with officials attending in ceremonial chaofu (朝服)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg/120px-The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="93" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg/180px-The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg/240px-The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E6%84%9F%E6%87%89%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1161" data-file-height="900" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Song dynasty ritual ceremony, with officials attending in ceremonial <a href="/wiki/List_of_hanfu#Court_dress_of_officials" title="List of hanfu"><i>chaofu</i></a> (朝服).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Two men wearing daopao."><img alt="Two men wearing daopao." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg/86px-Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg" decoding="async" width="86" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg/129px-Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg/171px-Two_men_in_daopao_from_liu_songnian_painting.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1709" data-file-height="2390" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Two men wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">daopao</a></i>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>The clothes worn by Song dynasty emperors are collectively called <i>tianzi apparel</i> (天子服饰; the emperor's apparel).<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> The apparels worn when attending sacrificial and worshipping ceremonies were <i>daqiumian</i> (大裘冕; a type of <a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">mianfu</a>), <i>gunmian</i> (衮冕; a type of mianfu), and <i>lüpao</i> (履袍).<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> The emperor's daily wears were <i>shanpao</i> (衫袍) and <i>zhaipao</i> (窄袍). The <i>yuyue fu</i> (御阅服) was the formal military uniform worn by the Song dynasty Emperors and only came into existence in the <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty#Southern_Song,_1127–1279" title="Song dynasty">Southern Song dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> The crown prince would wear the <i>gunmian</i> (衮冕) when he would accompanied the emperor to sacrificial ceremonies, and he would wear <i>yuanyouguanfu</i> (远游冠服) and <i>zhumingfu</i> (朱明衣) on less formal but important occasions such as nobility conferring and appointment, when paying visits to the founding ancestor's temple and when attending court meetings which are held by the Emperor.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> The Crown prince also wear purple official dress, gold and jade waistband, and wore a folding-up black muslin scarf on his head.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7">: 1–7 </span></sup> </p><p>Although some of clothing in the Song dynasty have similarities with previous dynasties, some unique characteristics separate it from the rest.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:18_147-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:18-147"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>136<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> While most of them following the Tang dynasty style,<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> the revival of <a href="/wiki/Confucianism" title="Confucianism">Confucianism</a> influenced the women clothing of the Song dynasty; Confucians in the Song dynasty revered antiquity and wanted to revive some old ideas and customs and encouraged women to reject the extravagance of the Tang dynasty fashion.<sup id="cite_ref-:19_148-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:19-148"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>137<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Due to the shift in philosophical thought, the aesthetics of the Song dynasty clothing showed simplicity and became more traditional in style.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Palace ladies searched for guidance in the <a href="/wiki/Rites_of_Zhou" title="Rites of Zhou">Rites of Zhou</a> on how to dress accordingly to ceremonial events and carefully chose ornaments which were graded for each occasion based on the classic rituals.<sup id="cite_ref-:19_148-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:19-148"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>137<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> While women of the Tang dynasty liked clothing which emphasized on body curves and sometimes revealed décolletage, women in the Song dynasty perceived such styles as obscene and vulgar and preferred slender body figure.<sup id="cite_ref-:19_148-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:19-148"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>137<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Donning clothing which looked simple and humble instead of extravagant was interpreted as expressing sober virtue.<sup id="cite_ref-:19_148-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:19-148"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>137<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Song dynasty clothing system also specified how women of the imperial court had to dress themselves and this included the Song empresses, the imperial concubines, and the titled gentlewomen; their clothing would also change depending on occasions.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7, 31">: 1–7, 31 </span></sup> Song dynasty empresses wear the <i><a href="/wiki/Diyi" title="Diyi">huiyi</a></i>;<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> they often had three to five distinctive jewelry-like marks on their face (two side of the cheek, other two next to the eyebrows and one on the forehead).<sup id="cite_ref-:32_149-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:32-149"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>138<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The everyday clothing of the Empresses and Imperial concubines included: long skirts, loose-sleeves garments, tasselled capes and <i><a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">beizi</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 1–7, 31">: 1–7, 31 </span></sup> Imperial concubines like the colour yellow and red; the pomegranate colour skirt was also popular in the Song dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 5">: 5 </span></sup> Collar edges and sleeve edges of all clothes that have been excavated were decorated with laces or embroidered patterns. Such clothes were decorated with patterns of <a href="/wiki/Peony" title="Peony">peony</a>, <a href="/wiki/Camellia" title="Camellia">camellia</a>, <a href="/wiki/Plum_blossom" class="mw-redirect" title="Plum blossom">plum blossom</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Lily" class="mw-redirect" title="Lily">lily</a>, etc.<sup id="cite_ref-:18_147-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:18-147"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>136<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Pleated skirts were introduced and became the characteristic skirts of the upper social class.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 5">: 5 </span></sup> </p> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:1510px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto;direction:rtl"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Painting of famous ministers dressed in typical Song dynasty clothing."><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png/1500px-%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png" decoding="async" width="1500" height="166" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png/2250px-%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png/3000px-%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png 2x" data-file-width="36703" data-file-height="4060" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%AE%8B%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%BB%E5%85%AB%E7%9B%B8%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7.png" title="File:宋人画八相图卷.png"> </a></div>Painting of famous ministers dressed in typical Song dynasty clothing.</div></div></div> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Song_Taizu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Portrait of Song Taizu wearing a white round-collar gown and a zhanchi futou (展翅幞頭; lit. spread wings hat), c.1000 AD."><img alt="Portrait of Song Taizu wearing a white round-collar gown and a zhanchi futou (展翅幞頭; lit. spread wings hat), c.1000 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Song_Taizu.jpg/120px-Song_Taizu.jpg" decoding="async" width="107" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/Song_Taizu.jpg/250px-Song_Taizu.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="22645" data-file-height="25422" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Portrait of <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Taizu_of_Song" title="Emperor Taizu of Song">Song Taizu</a> wearing a white round-collar gown and a <i>zhanchi futou</i> (展翅幞頭; lit. spread wings hat), c.1000 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Empress_of_Renzong_of_Song.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Empress Cao wearing a huiyi with two court ladies wearing a round-collar gown with red pleated skirts, Song dynasty."><img alt="Empress Cao wearing a huiyi with two court ladies wearing a round-collar gown with red pleated skirts, Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Empress_of_Renzong_of_Song.jpg/120px-Empress_of_Renzong_of_Song.jpg" decoding="async" width="116" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Empress_of_Renzong_of_Song.jpg/250px-Empress_of_Renzong_of_Song.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1999" data-file-height="2067" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Empress_Cao_(Song_dynasty)" title="Empress Cao (Song dynasty)">Empress Cao</a> wearing a <i><a href="/wiki/Diyi" title="Diyi">huiyi</a></i> with two court ladies wearing a round-collar gown with red pleated skirts, Song dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Fresco_from_the_Temple_of_Enlightenment_-_Life_of_Buddha.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Emperor and empress, Fresco from the Temple of Enlightenment - Life of Buddha, Song dynasty."><img alt="Emperor and empress, Fresco from the Temple of Enlightenment - Life of Buddha, Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5e/Fresco_from_the_Temple_of_Enlightenment_-_Life_of_Buddha.jpg/120px-Fresco_from_the_Temple_of_Enlightenment_-_Life_of_Buddha.jpg" decoding="async" width="67" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5e/Fresco_from_the_Temple_of_Enlightenment_-_Life_of_Buddha.jpg/250px-Fresco_from_the_Temple_of_Enlightenment_-_Life_of_Buddha.jpg 2x" data-file-width="540" data-file-height="960" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Emperor and empress, Fresco from the Temple of Enlightenment - Life of Buddha, <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_(%E5%8D%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%A4%AB%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Official paying respects to emperor in tongtianguanfu (通天冠服)."><img alt="Official paying respects to emperor in tongtianguanfu (通天冠服)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d8/The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E5%8D%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%A4%AB%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg/120px-The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E5%8D%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%A4%AB%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="97" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d8/The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E5%8D%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%A4%AB%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg/250px-The_Classic_of_Filial_Piety_%28%E5%8D%BF%E5%A4%A7%E5%A4%AB%E7%AB%A0_%E7%95%AB%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1111" data-file-height="900" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Official paying respects to emperor in <i><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">tongtianguanfu</a></i> (通天冠服).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:EmperorWenOfHan.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Song dynasty period painting of Emperor Wen of Han in casual wear, or bianfu."><img alt="A Song dynasty period painting of Emperor Wen of Han in casual wear, or bianfu." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/EmperorWenOfHan.jpg/120px-EmperorWenOfHan.jpg" decoding="async" width="72" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/EmperorWenOfHan.jpg/250px-EmperorWenOfHan.jpg 2x" data-file-width="817" data-file-height="1350" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a> period painting of <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Wen_of_Han" title="Emperor Wen of Han">Emperor Wen of Han</a> in casual wear, or <i>bianfu</i>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>According to the Song dynasty's regulations, ordinary people were only allowed to wear white clothes; but at some point, the regulations changed and ordinary people, as well as administrative clerks and intellectuals, were able to wear black clothes.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 272, 275">: 272, 275 </span></sup> However, in reality, the clothing worn by civilians were much more colourful than what was stipulated as many colours were used in the garments and skirts.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Ordinary people also dressed differently accordingly to their social status and occupations.<sup id="cite_ref-:57_51-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:57-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>One of the common clothing styles for woman during the Song dynasty was <i>beizi</i>, which were usually regarded as shirt or jacket and could be matched with <i><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">ru</a></i>, which was a necessary clothing for daily life of commoners, a <i>qun</i> (裙; skirt) or <i><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">ku</a></i> (袴; trousers).<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-20" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> There are two size of <i>beizi</i>: the short one is crown rump length and the long one extended to the knees.<sup id="cite_ref-:32_149-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:32-149"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>138<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> According to the sacrificial and ceremonial apparel system drafted by <a href="/wiki/Zhu_Xi" title="Zhu Xi">Zhu Xi</a>, women should wear an overcoat, a long skirt, and the <i>beizi</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> Women also wore the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/zggd/info_21.aspx?itemid=1840"><i>liangpian qun</i> (两片裙)</a>, a wrap skirt which consist of two pieces of fabric sewn to a separate, single waistband with ties.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-150" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-150"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>139<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Commoners as seen on Along the River During the Qingming Festival."><img alt="Commoners as seen on Along the River During the Qingming Festival." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg/120px-Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="70" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg/180px-Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg/240px-Qingming_Festival_Detail_12.jpg 2x" data-file-width="468" data-file-height="272" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Commoners as seen on <i><a href="/wiki/Along_the_River_During_the_Qingming_Festival" title="Along the River During the Qingming Festival">Along the River During the Qingming Festival</a></i>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%C2%B7_%E6%96%97%E6%B5%86%E5%9B%BE_Tea_Fighting_Southern_Song_dynasty.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Commoners engaged in "tea fighting"."><img alt="Commoners engaged in "tea fighting"." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%C2%B7_%E6%96%97%E6%B5%86%E5%9B%BE_Tea_Fighting_Southern_Song_dynasty.png/120px-%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%C2%B7_%E6%96%97%E6%B5%86%E5%9B%BE_Tea_Fighting_Southern_Song_dynasty.png" decoding="async" width="120" height="100" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%C2%B7_%E6%96%97%E6%B5%86%E5%9B%BE_Tea_Fighting_Southern_Song_dynasty.png/250px-%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%C2%B7_%E6%96%97%E6%B5%86%E5%9B%BE_Tea_Fighting_Southern_Song_dynasty.png 1.5x" data-file-width="1696" data-file-height="1417" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Commoners engaged in "tea fighting".</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:The_Knickknack_Peddler2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A "Knickknack Peddler", by Su Hanchen."><img alt="A "Knickknack Peddler", by Su Hanchen." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/The_Knickknack_Peddler2.jpg/120px-The_Knickknack_Peddler2.jpg" decoding="async" width="79" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/The_Knickknack_Peddler2.jpg/250px-The_Knickknack_Peddler2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="843" data-file-height="1280" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A "Knickknack Peddler", by <a href="/wiki/Su_Hanchen" title="Su Hanchen">Su Hanchen</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Scholars wearing zhiduo-robes and rujin (儒巾) headscarf. Various kinds of headscarves became fashionable among the commoners and the educated gentry."><img alt="Scholars wearing zhiduo-robes and rujin (儒巾) headscarf. Various kinds of headscarves became fashionable among the commoners and the educated gentry." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png/66px-%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png" decoding="async" width="66" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png/99px-%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png/132px-%E5%84%92%E5%B7%BE_%E4%BA%94%E7%99%BE%E7%BD%97%E6%B1%89%E5%83%8F%E8%BD%B4%E4%B9%8B%E4%B8%80_%E5%8D%97%E5%AE%8B_%E5%91%A8%E5%AD%A3%E5%B8%B8%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E5%A4%A7%E5%BE%B7%E5%AF%BA%E8%97%8F.png 2x" data-file-width="385" data-file-height="697" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Scholar-gentry" class="mw-redirect" title="Scholar-gentry">Scholars</a> wearing <a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)"><i>zhiduo</i></a>-robes and <a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu_headwear" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu headwear"><i>rujin</i></a> (儒巾) headscarf. Various kinds of headscarves became fashionable among the commoners and the educated gentry.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%89%8E%E5%B7%BE_%E5%B7%BE%E7%8E%AF_%E7%81%B8%E8%89%BE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.[140]"><img alt="In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.[140]" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/%E6%89%8E%E5%B7%BE_%E5%B7%BE%E7%8E%AF_%E7%81%B8%E8%89%BE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/120px-%E6%89%8E%E5%B7%BE_%E5%B7%BE%E7%8E%AF_%E7%81%B8%E8%89%BE%E5%9B%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="116" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/%E6%89%8E%E5%B7%BE_%E5%B7%BE%E7%8E%AF_%E7%81%B8%E8%89%BE%E5%9B%BE.jpg/250px-%E6%89%8E%E5%B7%BE_%E5%B7%BE%E7%8E%AF_%E7%81%B8%E8%89%BE%E5%9B%BE.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1122" data-file-height="1157" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.<sup id="cite_ref-151" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-151"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>140<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Looking_in_the_Mirror_and_dabs_on_Rouge_Powder.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Song dynasty women wearing beizi; Northern Song dynasty."><img alt="Song dynasty women wearing beizi; Northern Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Looking_in_the_Mirror_and_dabs_on_Rouge_Powder.jpg/120px-Looking_in_the_Mirror_and_dabs_on_Rouge_Powder.jpg" decoding="async" width="107" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Looking_in_the_Mirror_and_dabs_on_Rouge_Powder.jpg/250px-Looking_in_the_Mirror_and_dabs_on_Rouge_Powder.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="537" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Song dynasty women wearing <i>beizi</i>; Northern Song dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Song Dynasty Tomb Painting Found in Tengfeng City 6."><img alt="Song Dynasty Tomb Painting Found in Tengfeng City 6." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d4/Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg/80px-Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d4/Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg/120px-Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d4/Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg/159px-Sung_Dynasty_Tomb_Painting_Found_in_Tengfeng_City_6.jpg 2x" data-file-width="399" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Song Dynasty Tomb Painting Found in Tengfeng City 6.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E7%91%A4%E8%87%BA%E6%AD%A5%E6%9C%88%E5%9C%962.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/%E7%91%A4%E8%87%BA%E6%AD%A5%E6%9C%88%E5%9C%962.jpg/120px-%E7%91%A4%E8%87%BA%E6%AD%A5%E6%9C%88%E5%9C%962.jpg" decoding="async" width="82" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/%E7%91%A4%E8%87%BA%E6%AD%A5%E6%9C%88%E5%9C%962.jpg/250px-%E7%91%A4%E8%87%BA%E6%AD%A5%E6%9C%88%E5%9C%962.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="312" data-file-height="456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> </ul><p>A painting, called <i><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.clevelandart.org/art/1977.5">Sericulture</a></i>, by the painter <a href="/wiki/Liang_Kai" title="Liang Kai">Liang Kai</a> in Southern Song dynasty depicts rural labourers in the process of making silk.<sup id="cite_ref-152" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-152"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>141<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Foot_binding" title="Foot binding">Foot binding</a> also became popular in the Song dynasty at the end of the dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:19_148-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:19-148"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>137<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Weighing_and_sorting_the_cocoons_(Sericulture_by_Liang_Kai,_1200s).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Man wearing shanku, Weighing and sorting the cocoons, from the painting Sericulture, Southern Song dynasty, c.1200 AD."><img alt="Man wearing shanku, Weighing and sorting the cocoons, from the painting Sericulture, Southern Song dynasty, c.1200 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e7/Weighing_and_sorting_the_cocoons_%28Sericulture_by_Liang_Kai%2C_1200s%29.jpg/120px-Weighing_and_sorting_the_cocoons_%28Sericulture_by_Liang_Kai%2C_1200s%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="92" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e7/Weighing_and_sorting_the_cocoons_%28Sericulture_by_Liang_Kai%2C_1200s%29.jpg/250px-Weighing_and_sorting_the_cocoons_%28Sericulture_by_Liang_Kai%2C_1200s%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="998" data-file-height="761" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Man wearing <a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">shanku</a>, Weighing and sorting the cocoons, from the painting <i><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.clevelandart.org/art/1977.5">Sericulture</a></i>, Southern Song dynasty, c.1200 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Women wearing ruqun. Trousers could be worn under the skirt."><img alt="Women wearing ruqun. Trousers could be worn under the skirt." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg/120px-%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="95" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg/180px-%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg/240px-%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A85.jpg 2x" data-file-width="471" data-file-height="374" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Women wearing <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a>. Trousers could be worn under the skirt.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Song dynasty painting, 12th century."><img alt="Song dynasty painting, 12th century." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8.jpg/120px-%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8.jpg" decoding="async" width="72" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8.jpg/250px-%E8%A0%B6%E7%B9%94%E5%9C%96%E5%B1%80%E9%83%A8.jpg 2x" data-file-width="324" data-file-height="535" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Song dynasty painting, 12th century.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wang_Juzheng%27s_Spinning_Wheel,_Close_Up_2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A working woman who is wearing trousers, Song dynasty painting."><img alt="A working woman who is wearing trousers, Song dynasty painting." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bd/Wang_Juzheng%27s_Spinning_Wheel%2C_Close_Up_2.jpg/120px-Wang_Juzheng%27s_Spinning_Wheel%2C_Close_Up_2.jpg" decoding="async" width="79" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bd/Wang_Juzheng%27s_Spinning_Wheel%2C_Close_Up_2.jpg/250px-Wang_Juzheng%27s_Spinning_Wheel%2C_Close_Up_2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="334" data-file-height="504" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A working woman who is wearing trousers, Song dynasty painting.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Song_dynasty_women.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Rural women wearing pleated skirts with a shan and ru, Song dynasty."><img alt="Rural women wearing pleated skirts with a shan and ru, Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/Song_dynasty_women.jpg/103px-Song_dynasty_women.jpg" decoding="async" width="103" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/Song_dynasty_women.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="110" data-file-height="128" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Rural women wearing pleated skirts with a shan and ru, <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>Other casual forms of clothing included: the <i>pao</i> (袍; the gown which could be broad or narrow-sleeved), <i><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">ao</a></i> (襖; a necessary coat for commoner in their daily lives), <i><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">duanhe</a></i> (短褐; a short, coarse cloth jacket worn by people of low socioeconomic status), <i><a href="/wiki/Panling_Lanshan" title="Panling Lanshan">lanshan</a></i>, and <i><a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)">zhiduo</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:18_147-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:18-147"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>136<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Children_Playing_in_an_Autumn_Courtyard_(detail).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Children Playing in an Autumn Courtyard, 12th century AD, Song Dynasty."><img alt="Children Playing in an Autumn Courtyard, 12th century AD, Song Dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Children_Playing_in_an_Autumn_Courtyard_%28detail%29.jpg/120px-Children_Playing_in_an_Autumn_Courtyard_%28detail%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="104" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Children_Playing_in_an_Autumn_Courtyard_%28detail%29.jpg/250px-Children_Playing_in_an_Autumn_Courtyard_%28detail%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1254" data-file-height="1450" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Children Playing in an Autumn Courtyard, 12th century AD, Song Dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Su_Hanchen,_Playing_Children.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Playing Children, Painting from the mid-12th century; Song dynasty."><img alt="Playing Children, Painting from the mid-12th century; Song dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg/70px-Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg" decoding="async" width="70" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg/105px-Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg/140px-Su_Hanchen%2C_Playing_Children.jpg 2x" data-file-width="274" data-file-height="468" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Playing Children, Painting from the mid-12th century; Song dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title=""A Children's Puppet Show", a painting by the Song-dynasty era Chinese artist, Early 12th century AD."><img alt=""A Children's Puppet Show", a painting by the Song-dynasty era Chinese artist, Early 12th century AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg/88px-A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg" decoding="async" width="88" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg/132px-A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg/176px-A_Children%27s_Puppet_Show.jpg 2x" data-file-width="942" data-file-height="1280" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">"A Children's Puppet Show", a painting by the Song-dynasty era Chinese artist, Early 12th century AD.</div> </li> </ul> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Su_shi.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/Su_shi.jpg/98px-Su_shi.jpg" decoding="async" width="98" height="231" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/Su_shi.jpg/147px-Su_shi.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/Su_shi.jpg/196px-Su_shi.jpg 2x" data-file-width="750" data-file-height="1766" /></a><figcaption>Su shi, also known as Su Dongpo, wearing the <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">Confucian shenyi</a>, Song dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>In addition, <a href="/wiki/Neo-Confucianism" title="Neo-Confucianism">Neo-Confucian</a> philosophies also determined the conduct code of the scholars.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> The Neo-Confucians re-constructed the meaning of the <i><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i>, restored, and re-invented it as the attire of the scholars.<sup id="cite_ref-:68_153-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:68-153"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>142<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some Song dynasty scholars, such as <a href="/wiki/Zhu_Xi" title="Zhu Xi">Zhu Xi</a> and <a href="/wiki/Shao_Yong" title="Shao Yong">Shaoyong</a>, made their own version of the scholar gown, <i>shenyi</i>, based on <a href="/wiki/Book_of_Rites" title="Book of Rites">The book of Rites</a>, while scholars such as Jin Lüxiang promoted it among his peers.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> However, the <i>shenyi</i> used as a scholar gown was not popular in the Song dynasty and was even considered as "strange garment" despite some scholar-officials appreciated it.<sup id="cite_ref-:68_153-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:68-153"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>142<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg/220px-%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="215" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg/330px-%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg/440px-%E9%9B%9C%E5%8A%87%E4%BA%BA%E7%89%A9%E5%9C%96.jpg 2x" data-file-width="800" data-file-height="780" /></a><figcaption><i><a href="/wiki/Zaju" title="Zaju">Zaju</a></i> actresses in theatrical clothing playing men, wearing headscarf with ring, Xiku and Waku trousers and leggings, Song dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>In the capital of Southern Song, clothing-style from Northern China were popular.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 5">: 5 </span></sup> The Song dynasty court repeatedly banned people (i.e. common people, literati, and women) from wearing clothing and ornaments worn by <a href="/wiki/Khitan_people" title="Khitan people">Khitan people</a>, such as felt hats, and from the wearing of exotic clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> They also banned clothing with colours which was associated to Khitan clothing; such as aeruginous or yellowish-black.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> They also banned people, except for drama actors, from wearing <a href="/wiki/Jurchen_people" title="Jurchen people">Jurchen</a> and Khitan <i>diaodun</i> (釣墩; a type of lower garment where the socks and trousers were connected to each other) due to its foreign ethnic nature.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-26" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Song dynasty women also wore the Song-dynasty <i><a href="/wiki/Weimao" title="Weimao">gaitou</a></i>, when they would ride animals, such as <a href="/wiki/Horse" title="Horse">horses</a> and <a href="/wiki/Donkey" title="Donkey">donkeys</a>, in order to relieve embarrassment and to conceal their bodies.<sup id="cite_ref-:125_136-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:125-136"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>125<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> These veils originated from the Tang dynasty women's <i><a href="/wiki/Weimao" title="Weimao">weimao</a></i> which covered the head and upper body; they were revived in Song after they fell out of fashion in Tang dynasty and were worn despite its masculine and barbarian origin, probably because Song women were unaware of its origins.<sup id="cite_ref-:125_136-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:125-136"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>125<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Many of Song dynasty clothing was later adopted in the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan</a> and <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming</a> dynasties. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Liao,_Western_Xia,_and_Jin_dynasties"><span id="Liao.2C_Western_Xia.2C_and_Jin_dynasties"></span>Liao, Western Xia, and Jin dynasties</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=13" title="Edit section: Liao, Western Xia, and Jin dynasties"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Liao_dynasty">Liao dynasty</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=14" title="Edit section: Liao dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_Liao_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Fashion in Liao dynasty">Fashion in Liao dynasty</a></div> <p>The rulers of the <a href="/wiki/Liao_dynasty" title="Liao dynasty">Liao dynasty</a> adopted a clothing system which allowed the coexistence of Han Chinese and <a href="/wiki/Khitan_people" title="Khitan people">Khitan</a> clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> The Khitan court adopted both the <i>guofu</i> (國服; Khitan National garments) and hanfu, which the Khitan inherited from the <a href="/wiki/Later_Jin_(Five_Dynasties)" title="Later Jin (Five Dynasties)">Later Jin dynasty</a> and were actually clothing from the Tang dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:462_155-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:462-155"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>144<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>guofu</i> of the Liao dynasty was also heavily influenced by the Hanfu system.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-28" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 57">: 57 </span></sup> </p><p>The Han Chinese men living in the Liao dynasty were not required to wear the shaved Khitan hairstyle which Khitan men wore to distinguish their ethnicity, unlike the <a href="/wiki/Qing_dynasty" title="Qing dynasty">Qing dynasty</a> which mandated wearing of the Manchu hairstyle for men.<sup id="cite_ref-:51_156-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:51-156"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>145<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In Han Chinese tombs dating from Liao dynasty, there are tombs murals which depicts purely Chinese customs and Chinese clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:48_157-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:48-157"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>146<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Tombs in <i>haner</i> families, for example the Zhang and Hann families, often depicts men dressed in Khitan clothing in corridors and antechambers while inner culture shows <i>haner</i> culture.<sup id="cite_ref-158" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-158"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some Han Chinese or <i>Haner</i> men adopted and/or combined Hanfu with Khitan clothing and boots, wore Hanfu or wore Khitan clothes. Han women on the other hand did not adopt Khitan dress and continued wearing Hanfu.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 48, 52–53">: 48, 52–53 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-160" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-160"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>148<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, the tomb of Hann Shixun (a man from distinguished <i>haner</i> families) who died in the early 12th century during the late Liao dynasty depict Khitan-style clothing in the antechamber whereas <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2006120182">women in Hanfu-style clothing</a> is seen in the painting found in the inner chamber.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 44–45">: 44–45 </span></sup> Another example can be seen in a <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2005011759">mural painting found in the tomb of Zhao Wenzao</a>, where children and servants are depicted wearing Khitan hairstyles and Khitan-style clothing, while the woman who is standing behind the table is depicted in Han Chinese clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 46–47">: 46–47 </span></sup> Han Chinese women living in the Southern Division and <i>Haner</i> women were culture bearers, who generally preserved Han Chinese culture and continued to wear Hanfu which was worn prior to the conquest.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Both Khitan women and Han Chinese women in the Liao wore Han style Tang-Song dress.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:KhitanMural.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Children and servants wear Khitan-style clothing and hairstyle; the standing women wears Song-style hanfu, Mural painting from the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng (M10), Liao dynasty, 1058-1093 AD."><img alt="Children and servants wear Khitan-style clothing and hairstyle; the standing women wears Song-style hanfu, Mural painting from the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng (M10), Liao dynasty, 1058-1093 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/52/KhitanMural.jpg/120px-KhitanMural.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="78" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/52/KhitanMural.jpg/180px-KhitanMural.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/52/KhitanMural.jpg/240px-KhitanMural.jpg 2x" data-file-width="721" data-file-height="470" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Children and servants wear Khitan-style clothing and hairstyle; the standing women wears Song-style hanfu, Mural painting from the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng (M10), Liao dynasty, 1058-1093 AD. </div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mural_in_liao_tomb.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Women wearing Song-style clothing, consisting of shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and beizi, inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty."><img alt="Women wearing Song-style clothing, consisting of shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and beizi, inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/97/Mural_in_liao_tomb.jpg/120px-Mural_in_liao_tomb.jpg" decoding="async" width="92" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/97/Mural_in_liao_tomb.jpg/250px-Mural_in_liao_tomb.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="783" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Women wearing Song-style clothing, consisting of shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and <a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">beizi</a>, inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_(%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E5%AF%84%E9%8C%A6%E5%9C%97).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Khitan women wearing Tang-style ruqun; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty."><img alt="Khitan women wearing Tang-style ruqun; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ad/Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E5%AF%84%E9%8C%A6%E5%9C%97%29.jpg/120px-Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E5%AF%84%E9%8C%A6%E5%9C%97%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ad/Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E5%AF%84%E9%8C%A6%E5%9C%97%29.jpg/250px-Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E5%AF%84%E9%8C%A6%E5%9C%97%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="900" data-file-height="675" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Khitan women wearing Tang-style ruqun; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_(%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E9%A0%8C%E7%B6%93%E5%9C%97).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Khitan women wearing Tang-style qixiong ruqun, Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty."><img alt="Khitan women wearing Tang-style qixiong ruqun, Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E9%A0%8C%E7%B6%93%E5%9C%97%29.jpg/120px-Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E9%A0%8C%E7%B6%93%E5%9C%97%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="104" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E9%A0%8C%E7%B6%93%E5%9C%97%29.jpg/250px-Pao-Shan_Tomb_Wall-Painting_of_Liao_Dynasty_%28%E5%AF%B3%E5%B1%B1%E9%81%BC%E5%A2%93%E5%A3%81%E7%95%AB%EF%BC%9A%E9%A0%8C%E7%B6%93%E5%9C%97%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1039" data-file-height="901" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Khitan women wearing Tang-style <a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">qixiong ruqun</a>, Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Jin_dynasty">Jin dynasty</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=15" title="Edit section: Jin dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Jurchen_Jin_dynasty" title="Fashion in the Jurchen Jin dynasty">Fashion in the Jurchen Jin dynasty</a></div> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(1115%E2%80%931234)" title="Jin dynasty (1115–1234)">Jin dynasty</a> rulers imitated the <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a> and decided to establish their own carriages and apparel system.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-29" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> In the early period of the Jin dynasty, the Jin dynasty court first attempted to impose Jurchen hairstyle and clothes on the Han Chinese population in 1126 AD and in 1129 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-:50_161-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:50-161"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>149<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 281">: 281 </span></sup> The Hanfu-style clothing was prohibited and the people had to wear a short scarf and left-lapelled clothing; if they did not obey, they were put to death.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-30" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> The Jurchen queue and shaving hairstyle was not enforced on the Han Chinese in the Jin after an initial attempt to do so which was a rebuke to Jurchen values.<sup id="cite_ref-:51_156-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:51-156"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>145<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-162" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-162"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>150<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, the rules were not observed and the order was taken back under the Emperor <a href="/wiki/Wanyan_Liang" title="Wanyan Liang">Wanyan Liang</a> who was Pro-Chinese allowing the Han Chinese to wear their Han clothing by lifting the ban in 1150 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-:50_161-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:50-161"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>149<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 281">: 281 </span></sup> After the occupation of the <a href="/wiki/Northern_Song_Dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Northern Song Dynasty">Northern Song</a> territories by the Jurchens in 1127 AD, the Han Chinese who were living in Northern Song territories became the majority while the Jurchen became an ethnic minority; this led the Jurchens to make political concessions allowing the Han Chinese to practice Han Chinese culture.<sup id="cite_ref-:82_163-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:82-163"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>151<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 1138 AD, the Jin court adopted the Chinese robes for the emperor and the officials.<sup id="cite_ref-:82_163-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:82-163"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>151<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 1161-1189 AD, many Jurchens appear to have begun adopting Han Chinese behavior and forgetting their own traditions and languages; therefore, the <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Shizong_of_Jin" title="Emperor Shizong of Jin">Emperor Shizong of Jin</a> prohibited the Jurchens from dressing like the Han Chinese in 1191 AD as he wanted to revitalize the old Jurchen culture.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:50_161-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:50-161"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>149<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 281">: 281 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:82_163-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:82-163"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>151<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, despite his efforts, the influence of the Han Chinese living in the Northern Song territories had a significant influence and by the mid-twelve century, the Jurchens were <a href="/wiki/Sinicization" title="Sinicization">sinicized</a> so much that they were almost indistinguishable from the Han Chinese in terms of dress, literacy and social customs.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Based on Han Chinese tombs of the Jin dynasty, it appears that ordinary Jurchen clothing may have been a symbol of lower class status as servants and lower-class women tend to be portrayed as wearing modified Jurchen-style clothing whereas women from the upper class wear Hanfu-style clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Yet despite the Han Chinese influence on Jurchens, travellers from the <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Southern Song dynasty</a> who visited the former territories of the Song dynasty noted that there have been changes in the people's culture and that the Han Chinese's clothing style had also been influenced by the Jurchens in terms of adoption of items; they also noted that the only thing which had not changed much was the women's clothing style.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-31" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, the clothing-style of the Han Chinese women living the Jin dynasty was outdated compared to those living in the Southern Song territories.<sup id="cite_ref-:47_159-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:47-159"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>147<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Cloud_collar" class="mw-redirect" title="Cloud collar">yunjian</a></i> was worn in the Jin dynasty and was adopted in the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a> as a signature pattern on men's and women's clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 51">: 51 </span></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Standing_official_with_tablet,_China,_possibly_Handan,_Hebei,_Jin_dynasty,_early_1200s_AD,_Cizhou_ware,_white_and_black_slip,_iron-red_and_copper-green_overglaze_-_Peabody_Essex_Museum_-_Salem,_MA_-_DSC05137.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Standing official with tablet, China, possibly Handan, Hebei, Jin dynasty, early 1200s AD."><img alt="Standing official with tablet, China, possibly Handan, Hebei, Jin dynasty, early 1200s AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Standing_official_with_tablet%2C_China%2C_possibly_Handan%2C_Hebei%2C_Jin_dynasty%2C_early_1200s_AD%2C_Cizhou_ware%2C_white_and_black_slip%2C_iron-red_and_copper-green_overglaze_-_Peabody_Essex_Museum_-_Salem%2C_MA_-_DSC05137.jpg/120px-thumbnail.jpg" decoding="async" width="72" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Standing_official_with_tablet%2C_China%2C_possibly_Handan%2C_Hebei%2C_Jin_dynasty%2C_early_1200s_AD%2C_Cizhou_ware%2C_white_and_black_slip%2C_iron-red_and_copper-green_overglaze_-_Peabody_Essex_Museum_-_Salem%2C_MA_-_DSC05137.jpg/250px-thumbnail.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3155" data-file-height="5219" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Standing official with tablet, China, possibly Handan, Hebei, Jin dynasty, early 1200s AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu,_1199_AD_04.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD."><img alt="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f4/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_04.jpg/120px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_04.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f4/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_04.jpg/250px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_04.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="5184" data-file-height="3456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu,_1199_AD_08.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD."><img alt="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/38/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_08.jpg/120px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_08.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/38/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_08.jpg/250px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_08.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="5184" data-file-height="3456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu,_1199_AD_05.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu"><img alt="Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/73/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_05.jpg/120px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_05.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/73/Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_05.jpg/250px-Jin_Dynasty_Tomb_of_Zou_Fu%2C_1199_AD_05.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="5184" data-file-height="3456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Western_Xia">Western Xia</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=16" title="Edit section: Western Xia"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_Western_Xia" title="Fashion in Western Xia">Fashion in Western Xia</a></div> <p><a href="/wiki/Emperor_Jingzong_of_Western_Xia" title="Emperor Jingzong of Western Xia">Emperor Jingzong</a>, the first emperor of <a href="/wiki/Western_Xia" title="Western Xia">Western Xia</a>, rejected Han Chinese silk clothing over the leather and wool clothing of the nomadic people from the Steppe; he argued that the <a href="/wiki/Tangut_people" title="Tangut people">Tanguts</a> had traditionally worn leather-based and wool clothing and since the Tanguts men were military, they also had no use for silk materials.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> Yet, silk clothing was still worn in Western Xia during his reign.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> The Hanfu-style and the Tangut-style clothing were distinguished from each other, but both were used in the Western Xia.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> The Hanfu-style clothing was worn by officials whereas the Tangut-style clothing was worn by the military.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 15">: 15 </span></sup> Civil officials wore <a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">futou</a>, boots, purple or crimson gown.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-32" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> Emperor Jingzong also ordered that every people in Western Xia must be shaved in an attempt to restore old <a href="/wiki/Xianbei" title="Xianbei">Xianbei</a> customs, and disobedience was death penalty.<sup id="cite_ref-:41_146-33" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:41-146"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>135<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 32–59">: 32–59 </span></sup> However, in 1061 AD, <a href="/wiki/Emperor_Yizong_of_Western_Xia" title="Emperor Yizong of Western Xia">Emperor Yizong</a>, the son of Emperor Jingzong, decided to replace Tangut clothing with Hanfu in his court.<sup id="cite_ref-:72_164-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:72-164"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>152<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In his wish list to the Song dynasty court, Emperor Yizong asked permission to use Han Chinese rites and clothing to greet Song dynasty envoys and seek permission to buy Chinese official clothing; both of these requests were granted.<sup id="cite_ref-:72_164-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:72-164"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>152<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Hermitage_Museum_XX-2527_Two_Sitting_Figures.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Sitting figures, Western Xia painting, 13th century."><img alt="Sitting figures, Western Xia painting, 13th century." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/Hermitage_Museum_XX-2527_Two_Sitting_Figures.jpg/120px-Hermitage_Museum_XX-2527_Two_Sitting_Figures.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="67" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/Hermitage_Museum_XX-2527_Two_Sitting_Figures.jpg/250px-Hermitage_Museum_XX-2527_Two_Sitting_Figures.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1920" data-file-height="1075" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Sitting figures, Western Xia painting, 13th century.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E8%A5%BF%E5%A4%8F%E7%94%B7%E4%BE%9B%E9%A4%8A%E4%BA%BA%E5%83%8F.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Mural depicting men; Western Xia."><img alt="Mural depicting men; Western Xia." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/%E8%A5%BF%E5%A4%8F%E7%94%B7%E4%BE%9B%E9%A4%8A%E4%BA%BA%E5%83%8F.png/120px-%E8%A5%BF%E5%A4%8F%E7%94%B7%E4%BE%9B%E9%A4%8A%E4%BA%BA%E5%83%8F.png" decoding="async" width="120" height="93" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2b/%E8%A5%BF%E5%A4%8F%E7%94%B7%E4%BE%9B%E9%A4%8A%E4%BA%BA%E5%83%8F.png/250px-%E8%A5%BF%E5%A4%8F%E7%94%B7%E4%BE%9B%E9%A4%8A%E4%BA%BA%E5%83%8F.png 1.5x" data-file-width="388" data-file-height="300" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Mural depicting men; Western Xia.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Yuan_dynasty">Yuan dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=17" title="Edit section: Yuan dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_Yuan_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Fashion in Yuan dynasty">Fashion in Yuan dynasty</a></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground,_China,_Yuan_dynasty,_1200s-1300s_AD,_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo,_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg/250px-Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="293" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg/330px-Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg/500px-Kesi_fragment_with_dragon_design_on_purple_ground%2C_China%2C_Yuan_dynasty%2C_1200s-1300s_AD%2C_textile_-_Tokyo_National_Museum_-_Tokyo%2C_Japan_-_DSC08441.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3216" data-file-height="4288" /></a><figcaption>Textile with dragon design, 13th century. Dragon and <a href="/wiki/Fenghuang" title="Fenghuang">phoenix</a> motifs were strictly reserved for the top members of the Imperial family throughout China's history.</figcaption></figure> <p>During the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a>, Mongol dress was the clothing of elite for both genders.<sup id="cite_ref-:21_165-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:21-165"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>153<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Mongol attire for both men and women worn in the 13th-14th century was completely different from the Hanfu which had been worn in the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> and <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Mongol attire was shared by people of different social ranking due to its practicality which contrasted with the dress code of the Han Chinese; as such, Mongol attire was popular.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Mongols" title="Mongols">Mongols</a> never imposed Mongol customs on the <a href="/wiki/Han_Chinese" title="Han Chinese">Han Chinese</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:45_17-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:45-17"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p> Many Han Chinese and other ethnicities readily adopted Mongol clothing in Northern China to show their allegiance to the <a href="/wiki/Mongols" title="Mongols">Mongols</a>; however, in Southern China, Mongol clothing was rarely seen as both men and women continued to dress in Song-style garments.<sup id="cite_ref-:21_165-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:21-165"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>153<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the tomb of a woman from a Southern Song site, dating from the late-Yuan dynasty in <a href="/wiki/Fuzhou" title="Fuzhou">Fuzhou</a>, <a href="/wiki/Fujian" title="Fujian">Fujian</a>, the two-pieces system of Southern Song clothing (i.e., <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a>) has been found instead of the Mongol women's one-piece robe.<sup id="cite_ref-:21_165-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:21-165"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>153<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Burial clothing and tomb paintings in the southern territories of the Yuan dynasty also show that women wore the Song-style attire, which looked slimmer when compared to the Mongol court robe. The Song-style clothing is also depicted as consisting of jackets, which were open in the front and had long, narrow and thin sleeves, and sometimes women are depicted as wearing a sleeveless vest-type jackets with front openings.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, in the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2007031007">mural paintings from Dongercun from 1269 AD</a> in <a href="/wiki/Shaanxi" title="Shaanxi">Shaanxi</a> and in the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2010050306">mural painting in tomb M2 at Kangzhuangcun in Tunliu from 1276 AD</a>, maids and servants are seen wearing Song-style attire.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Shazishan_Tomb_Fresco,_Yuan_Dynasty,_Chifeng_Museum.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Chinese tomb occupants wearing Mongol-style clothing. The female tomb occupant is depicted wearing the woman's red Mongol robe under a short overjacket but does not wear the gugu hat, Shazishan Tomb Fresco, Yuan Dynasty."><img alt="Chinese tomb occupants wearing Mongol-style clothing. The female tomb occupant is depicted wearing the woman's red Mongol robe under a short overjacket but does not wear the gugu hat, Shazishan Tomb Fresco, Yuan Dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Shazishan_Tomb_Fresco%2C_Yuan_Dynasty%2C_Chifeng_Museum.jpg/120px-Shazishan_Tomb_Fresco%2C_Yuan_Dynasty%2C_Chifeng_Museum.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="87" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Shazishan_Tomb_Fresco%2C_Yuan_Dynasty%2C_Chifeng_Museum.jpg/250px-Shazishan_Tomb_Fresco%2C_Yuan_Dynasty%2C_Chifeng_Museum.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="500" data-file-height="364" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Chinese tomb occupants wearing Mongol-style clothing. The female tomb occupant is depicted wearing the woman's red Mongol robe under a <a href="/wiki/Banbi" title="Banbi">short overjacket</a> but does not wear the <a href="/wiki/Gugu_hat" title="Gugu hat">gugu hat</a>, Shazishan Tomb Fresco, <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan Dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9614.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="People in Hanfu"><img alt="People in Hanfu" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/49/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9614.jpg/120px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9614.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="64" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/49/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9614.jpg/250px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9614.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="640" data-file-height="341" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">People in Hanfu</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Yuan dynasty illustration of people wearing hanfu and playing Cuju (from the Shilin Guangji by Chen Yuanjing)"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG/120px-Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG/180px-Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG/240px-Cuju_in_Shilin_Guangji.JPG 2x" data-file-width="674" data-file-height="506" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Yuan dynasty illustration of people wearing hanfu and playing <a href="/wiki/Cuju" title="Cuju">Cuju</a> (from the <a href="/wiki/Shilin_Guangji" title="Shilin Guangji">Shilin Guangji</a> by <a href="/wiki/Chen_Yuanjing" title="Chen Yuanjing">Chen Yuanjing</a>)</div> </li> </ul> <p>The type of clothing worn in the Yuan dynasty may have also served as a political statement; for example, despite not being the clothing of the ruling elite, the Tang-Song style clothing worn in multiple layers continued to be worn by families who showed that they were resisting the rule of the Mongols.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A form of skirts worn in the Yuan dynasty is a skirt which consist of two parts sewn to a separate single waistband which may also be pleated.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_(detail_I)_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A female figure from Vimalakirti and the Doctrine of Nonduality, Yuan dynasty."><img alt="A female figure from Vimalakirti and the Doctrine of Nonduality, Yuan dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg/84px-Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg" decoding="async" width="84" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg/127px-Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg/169px-Vimalakirti_and_the_Doctrine_of_Nonduality_%28detail_I%29_by_Wang_Ch%C3%AAn-p%27%C3%AAng.jpg 2x" data-file-width="432" data-file-height="613" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A female figure from <i><a href="/wiki/Vimalakirti" title="Vimalakirti">Vimalakirti</a> and the Doctrine of Nonduality</i>, <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying,_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Fresco in the Hall of King Ming-ying, Hung-t'ung County, Yuan dynasty painting."><img alt="Fresco in the Hall of King Ming-ying, Hung-t'ung County, Yuan dynasty painting." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f7/Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg/91px-Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg" decoding="async" width="91" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f7/Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg/137px-Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f7/Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg/182px-Fresco_in_the_Hall_of_King_Ming-ying%2C_Hung-t%27ung_County.jpg 2x" data-file-width="471" data-file-height="620" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Fresco in the Hall of King Ming-ying, Hung-t'ung County, Yuan dynasty painting.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Three Daoist Figures Playing the Game of Go by Zhushi"><img alt="Three Daoist Figures Playing the Game of Go by Zhushi" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg/63px-Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg" decoding="async" width="63" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg/95px-Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg/127px-Three_Daoist_Figures_Playing_the_Game_of_Go_by_Zhushi.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1648" data-file-height="3120" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Three Daoist Figures Playing the Game of Go by Zhushi</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Yuan_Daoist_Temple_Mural.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Yuan Daoist Temple Mural"><img alt="Yuan Daoist Temple Mural" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/94/Yuan_Daoist_Temple_Mural.jpg/120px-Yuan_Daoist_Temple_Mural.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="113" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/94/Yuan_Daoist_Temple_Mural.jpg/250px-Yuan_Daoist_Temple_Mural.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="541" data-file-height="511" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Yuan Daoist Temple Mural</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:1a_Zhao_Mengfu_Man_Riding_a_Horse,_dated_1296_(31.5_x_620_cm)_Palace_Museum,_Beijing.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Man Riding a Horse in a round-collared gown, Yuan dynasty painting by Zhao Mengfu, dated 1296 AD."><img alt="Man Riding a Horse in a round-collared gown, Yuan dynasty painting by Zhao Mengfu, dated 1296 AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a4/1a_Zhao_Mengfu_Man_Riding_a_Horse%2C_dated_1296_%2831.5_x_620_cm%29_Palace_Museum%2C_Beijing.jpg/120px-1a_Zhao_Mengfu_Man_Riding_a_Horse%2C_dated_1296_%2831.5_x_620_cm%29_Palace_Museum%2C_Beijing.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="60" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a4/1a_Zhao_Mengfu_Man_Riding_a_Horse%2C_dated_1296_%2831.5_x_620_cm%29_Palace_Museum%2C_Beijing.jpg/250px-1a_Zhao_Mengfu_Man_Riding_a_Horse%2C_dated_1296_%2831.5_x_620_cm%29_Palace_Museum%2C_Beijing.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1395" data-file-height="694" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Man Riding a Horse in a round-collared gown, <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a> painting by <a href="/wiki/Zhao_Mengfu" title="Zhao Mengfu">Zhao Mengfu</a>, dated 1296 AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wang_Yi_1363_(cropped).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Portrait of Yang Zhuxi, dated 1363, Yuan dynasty."><img alt="Portrait of Yang Zhuxi, dated 1363, Yuan dynasty." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Wang_Yi_1363_%28cropped%29.jpg/120px-Wang_Yi_1363_%28cropped%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="94" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Wang_Yi_1363_%28cropped%29.jpg/250px-Wang_Yi_1363_%28cropped%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2534" data-file-height="3215" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Portrait of Yang Zhuxi, dated 1363, Yuan dynasty.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Puppeteers_draw_a_crowd,_Yuan_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Puppeteers draw a crowd, Yuan Dynasty, 14th century AD."><img alt="Puppeteers draw a crowd, Yuan Dynasty, 14th century AD." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Puppeteers_draw_a_crowd%2C_Yuan_Dynasty.jpg/120px-Puppeteers_draw_a_crowd%2C_Yuan_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="110" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Puppeteers_draw_a_crowd%2C_Yuan_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Puppeteers_draw_a_crowd%2C_Yuan_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1521" data-file-height="1658" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Puppeteers draw a crowd, Yuan Dynasty, 14th century AD.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg/120px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="83" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg/180px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e3/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg/240px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9605.jpg 2x" data-file-width="581" data-file-height="401" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9616.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/da/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9616.jpg/120px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9616.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="96" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/da/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9616.jpg/250px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9616.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="640" data-file-height="510" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9612.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fe/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9612.jpg/120px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9612.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="64" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fe/%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9612.jpg/250px-%E5%A4%AA%E5%B9%B3%E9%A2%A8%E6%9C%83%E5%9C%9612.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="640" data-file-height="340" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Ming_dynasty">Ming dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=18" title="Edit section: Ming dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Ban_of_hufu,_return_to_hanfu,_and_cultural_integration"><span id="Ban_of_hufu.2C_return_to_hanfu.2C_and_cultural_integration"></span>Ban of hufu, return to hanfu, and cultural integration</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=19" title="Edit section: Ban of hufu, return to hanfu, and cultural integration"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg/250px-Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="244" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg/330px-Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg/500px-Xu_Xianqing_part17.jpg 2x" data-file-width="872" data-file-height="969" /></a><figcaption>A gathering of government officials in <i>Changfu</i> in front of the emperor.</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg/250px-%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="165" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg/330px-%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg/500px-%E6%82%BC%E8%8E%8A%E4%B8%96%E5%AD%90%E5%A2%93%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9_037.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4032" data-file-height="3024" /></a><figcaption>Ming tomb figurines</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg/250px-%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="170" height="330" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg/330px-%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg/500px-%E5%BE%80%E5%8F%A4%E9%9B%87%E5%85%B8%E5%A9%A2%E5%A5%B4%E6%A3%84%E9%9B%A2%E5%A6%BB%E5%AD%90%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1331" data-file-height="2583" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a> painting depicting Han Chinese clothing and Mongolian-style clothing, unknown author</figcaption></figure> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a> had many Mongol clothes and cultural aspects abolished and enforced <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> style Han Chinese clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>As soon as the <a href="/wiki/Hongwu_Emperor" title="Hongwu Emperor">Hongwu Emperor</a> conquered the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a>, he decried the "barbarian customs" of the Yuan dynasty and how people imitated the Mongols for personal gains; and so, he called for the restoration of Han Chinese traditions, which included the proper forms of dress, hairstyles, and attires.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-169" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-169"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>157<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> According to the <i>Veritable Records of Hongwu Emperor (太祖實錄)</i>, a detailed official account of daily activities of Hongwu Emperor written by court historians, he restored the entire clothing system to the standard of the Tang dynasty shortly after the founding of Ming dynasty: </p> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png/220px-Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png" decoding="async" width="220" height="170" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png/330px-Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png/440px-Departure_herald_yesa_C2A000054N000000000PBD.png 2x" data-file-width="640" data-file-height="495" /></a><figcaption> Ming dynasty officials wearing <a href="/wiki/Yesa_robe" title="Yesa robe"><i>yesa</i> robes</a>.</figcaption></figure> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1244412712" /><blockquote class="templatequote"><p>"On the Renzi day in the second month of the first year of Hongwu era (Feb 29th, 1368 CE), Hongwu emperor decreed that all fashions of clothing and headwear shall be restored to the standard of Tang, all citizens shall gather their hairs on top of their heads, and officials shall wear the Wu Sha Mao (black-cloth hats), round-collar robes, belts, and black boots." ("洪武元年二月壬子...至是,悉命復衣冠如唐制,士民皆束髮於頂,官則烏紗帽,圓領袍,束帶,黑靴。")</p></blockquote> <p>The attempt was to signified the Han Chinese cultural identity after defeating the Yuan dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 44–46">: 44–46 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The new clothing system that the Hongwu Emperor formulated was based on the dress code of the previous dynasties, which included the dress codes of the <a href="/wiki/Zhou_dynasty" title="Zhou dynasty">Zhou</a>, <a href="/wiki/Han_dynasty" title="Han dynasty">Han</a>, <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song</a> dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-:46_69-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:46-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 181–203">: 181–203 </span></sup> He also promulgated several decrees to ban Mongol and nomadic clothing style.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, fashionable Mongol attire, items and hats were still sometimes worn by early Ming royals, such as Hongwu Emperor himself and <a href="/wiki/Zhengde_Emperor" title="Zhengde Emperor">Zhengde Emperor</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-bbc.co.uk_29-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-bbc.co.uk-29"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-170" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-170"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>158<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Thus, many Ming dynasty clothing styles absorbed elements of both Han Chinese and Mongol clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg/250px-Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg/330px-Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg/500px-Jinyiwei_Ming_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="703" data-file-height="383" /></a><figcaption>The Jinyiwei, also known "Brocade-clad guards", dressed in their uniforms (<a href="/wiki/Jis%C3%BCn" title="Jisün">jisün</a> and <a href="/wiki/Feiyufu" title="Feiyufu">feiyufu</a>) to guard the Emperor's treasures, Ming dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff/lossy-page1-220px-%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="284" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff/lossy-page1-330px-%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff/lossy-page1-440px-%E6%98%8E%E7%86%B9%E5%AE%97%E5%9D%90%E5%83%8F.tiff.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2328" data-file-height="3004" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Tianqi_Emperor" title="Tianqi Emperor">Tianqi Emperor</a> in court dress</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg/120px-%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg" decoding="async" width="118" height="208" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg/177px-%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b1/%E6%98%8E%E5%BC%8F%E6%AF%94%E7%94%B2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="232" data-file-height="408" /></a><figcaption>Lady wearing a <i><a href="/wiki/Bijia" title="Bijia">bijia</a></i>, which extends down the knees, Ming dynasty</figcaption></figure> <p>The Ming dynasty developed a new attire from Yuan dynasty's <i>terlig</i>: <i><a href="/wiki/Terlig" title="Terlig">tieli</a></i>; it is a cross-collared, long sleeved robe with dense and narrow pleats all around the lower hem.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:242_172-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:242-172"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>160<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>tieli</i> was mainly worn by the upper class and rarely worn by the lower class.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the <a href="/wiki/Veritable_Records_of_the_Joseon_Dynasty" title="Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty">Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty</a>, <i>tieli</i> were recorded as <i>ch'obli</i> (帖裡), bestowed as present by the Ming dynasty from the year 1424; however, the <i>terlig-style</i> attires found in both countries differed from each other in terms of form and historical development.<sup id="cite_ref-:242_172-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:242-172"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>160<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Zhisun_(clothing)" class="mw-redirect" title="Zhisun (clothing)">jisün</a></i> that had been popular in the Yuan dynasty was also worn by the court bodyguards, the <i>xiaowei</i> (校尉; guards of honour), the <a href="/wiki/Embroidered_Uniform_Guard" title="Embroidered Uniform Guard">brocade guards</a>, and by court servants.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Yesa_robe" title="Yesa robe">yesa robe</a></i>, which mixed Han and Mongol elements was worn as an informal attire by emperors, princes, ministers, and officials in early Ming dynasty; it was worn as a formal uniforms during the middle period of the Ming dynasty; it was worn as a casual dress worn by <a href="/wiki/Scholar-officials" class="mw-redirect" title="Scholar-officials">scholar-officials</a> during the mid-to-late period of the Ming dynasty; and eventually it was worn by Ming court eunuchs, servants and commoners in the late Ming.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The <i><a href="/wiki/Damao_(hat)#Yuan_dynasty" title="Damao (hat)">boli hat</a></i> worn by the Mongols in the Yuan dynasty influenced the Han Chinese and continued to be used widely in the Ming dynasty in the form of the <i><a href="/wiki/Damao_(hat)" title="Damao (hat)">damao</a></i>, which was worn by the government clerks and family servants. The use of the <i>damao</i> by the family servants of the Ming officials and the imperial family contributed popularity spread of that hat which eventually become a symbol of low-ranking servants.<sup id="cite_ref-:15_166-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:15-166"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>154<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Other new Ming dynasty attires influenced by the Yuan dynasty include the <i>small hat</i> (小帽; <i>xiaomao</i>) or <i><a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%85%AD%E5%90%88%E4%B8%80%E7%B5%B1%E5%B8%BD" class="extiw" title="zh:六合一統帽">liuheyitong mao</a></i> (六合一統帽), the <i><a href="/wiki/Dahu_(clothing)" title="Dahu (clothing)">dahu</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Archeological evidence from the tombs of Ming dynasty princes show that the Mongol-style attire continued to exist well until the 16th century.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Ming dynasty also adopted <i><a href="/wiki/Bijia" title="Bijia">bijia</a></i>, <i><a href="/wiki/Humao" title="Humao">humao</a></i>, and a waistcoat with buttons at the front from Yuan dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 44–46">: 44–46 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:22_173-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:22-173"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>161<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 31">: 31 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Establishing_new_dress_regulations">Establishing new dress regulations</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=20" title="Edit section: Establishing new dress regulations"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png/250px-Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png" decoding="async" width="220" height="175" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png/330px-Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png/500px-Segment_of_Elegant_Gathering_in_the_Apricot_Garden.png 2x" data-file-width="2002" data-file-height="1590" /></a><figcaption>Early Ming dynasty officials of the 1300-1400s, as painted by <a href="/wiki/Xie_Huan" title="Xie Huan">Xie Huan</a>.</figcaption></figure> <p>The founder of the Ming dynasty, the <a href="/wiki/Hongwu_Emperor" title="Hongwu Emperor">Hongwu Emperor</a>, saw the fundamentality of making a new dress code to consolidate his rule; he spent almost all his reigning years developing and institutionalizing dressing regulations, which were recorded in various compilation of texts, such as the <a href="/wiki/Collected_Statutes_of_the_Ming_Dynasty" title="Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty">Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The dressing regulations were based on the dressing system of the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang</a> and <a href="/wiki/Song_dynasty" title="Song dynasty">Song</a> dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Moreover, the Ming dynasty dressing regulations were strongly related to the ritual system; the Confucian codes and ideals that were popularized during the Ming dynasty also had a significant effect on those regulations.<sup id="cite_ref-:28_174-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:28-174"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>162<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The dressing regulations determined what attire and ornaments could be worn depending on one's social ranks.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:28_174-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:28-174"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>162<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, the Ming dynasty's basic dressing principles, announced in 1392, included the following:<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1244412712" /><blockquote class="templatequote"><p>"Officials’ robes should fit their bodies. The length of those worn by civil officials is one inch from the ground. The sleeves should be long enough to reach the elbows when they are folded back from the end of the hands; they should be one foot wide, with cuffs of nine inches wide. The sizes of nobles (gonghou), and imperial sons-in-law's robes are the same as civil officials’. So are the sizes of seniors and primary degree holders’ robe, except for the sleeves, which are three inches from the elbow when folded from the hands. A commoners’ robe is five inches from the ground. So is a military official's; their sleeves should be seven inches over their hands, with cuffs as broad as their fists. Soldiers’ clothes are seven inches from the ground, with sleeves five inches longer than their hands, and seven inches wide. Their cuffs are wide enough only for their fists to stretch out".</p></blockquote> <p>In the Ming dynasty, the inner garment that people wore were called <i>neidan</i> (内单).<sup id="cite_ref-:28_174-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:28-174"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>162<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The fabric material of the outer garment are determined by one's social status.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The emperors tend to wear yellow satin gown with dragon designs, jade belts, and <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">yishanguan</a></i> (翼善冠; philanthropy crown, with wings folded upwards).<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>yishanguan</i> were only worn by emperors and other members of the royal family on formal occasions.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-20" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 18">: 18 </span></sup> Officials wore different wore robes of various colours and patterns; they also wore gauze hats.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Civil and military officials wore different types of <a href="/w/index.php?title=Guanfu&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Guanfu (page does not exist)">guanfu</a> (官服), depending on occasions and events: <i>chaofu (</i>朝服; court dress), the <i>jifu</i> (祭服; sacrificial ceremony dress), the <i>gongfu</i> (公服; public service dress), the <i>changfu</i> (常服; everyday dress), and the <i>yanfu</i> (燕服; casual or leisure clothing).<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The officials' robes are usually patched with embroidered square pattern of animals on the back and the front; the patches are called the <a href="/wiki/Mandarin_square" title="Mandarin square">Mandarin square</a>, and were differentiated between officials' ranks. Minor differences can be observed between the Mandarin squares decreed by the <a href="/wiki/Hongwu_Emperor" title="Hongwu Emperor">Hongwu Emperor</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Jiajing_Emperor" title="Jiajing Emperor">Jiajing Emperor</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="thumb tnone" style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;overflow:hidden;width:auto;max-width:810px"><div class="thumbinner"><div class="noresize thumbimage" style="overflow:auto"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Ten Officials Who Passed The Imperial Examination In The Same Year of 1464 (甲申十同年圖), painted in 1503 during one of their reunions. The presence of yapai (牙牌; lit. 'Tusk Card'; the rectangular ornaments, that hanged from each official's left waist, are ivory plaques that engraved with the wearer's department, position, rank and instructions; Yapai were visitor's badge that granted passage into the Forbidden City for officials to have an audience with the emperor) implies that this scene was painted shortly after a court meeting. During the Ming dynasty, both civil and military officials were divided into nine Ranks (品), each Rank was further subdivided into Primary (正) and Secondary (從) so there were technically eighteen Ranks, with First Rank Primary (正一品) being the highest and the Ninth Rank Secondary (從九品) the lowest. Officials of the upper four Ranks (from First Rank Primary to Fourth Rank Secondary) were entitled to wear the red robes; mid-Ranks (Fifth Rank Primary to Seventh Rank Secondary) to wear blue robes and the lower Ranks (Eighth Rank Primary to Ninth Rank Secondary) to wear green robes. In addition, each exact Rank was indicated by a picture of unique animal (either real or legendary) sewn in a Mandarin square on both the front and back of the robe, so fellow officials could identify someone's Rank from afar."><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f6/%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg/800px-%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg" decoding="async" width="800" height="133" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f6/%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg/1200px-%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f6/%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg/1600px-%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg 2x" data-file-width="6573" data-file-height="1095" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"><a href="/wiki/File:%E7%94%B2%E7%94%B3%E5%8D%81%E5%90%8C%E5%B9%B4%E5%9B%BE.jpg" title="File:甲申十同年图.jpg"> </a></div><i>Ten Officials Who Passed The <a href="/wiki/Imperial_Examination" class="mw-redirect" title="Imperial Examination">Imperial Examination</a> In The Same Year of 1464</i> (甲申十同年圖), painted in 1503 during one of their reunions. The presence of <i>yapai</i> (牙牌; lit. 'Tusk Card'; the rectangular ornaments, that hanged from each official's left waist, are ivory plaques that engraved with the wearer's department, position, rank and instructions; <i>Yapai</i> were visitor's badge that granted passage into the <a href="/wiki/Forbidden_City" title="Forbidden City">Forbidden City</a> for officials to have an audience with the emperor) implies that this scene was painted shortly after a court meeting. During the Ming dynasty, both civil and military officials were divided into nine Ranks (品), each Rank was further subdivided into Primary (正) and Secondary (從) so there were technically eighteen Ranks, with First Rank Primary (正一品) being the highest and the Ninth Rank Secondary (從九品) the lowest. Officials of the upper four Ranks (from First Rank Primary to Fourth Rank Secondary) were entitled to wear the red robes; mid-Ranks (Fifth Rank Primary to Seventh Rank Secondary) to wear blue robes and the lower Ranks (Eighth Rank Primary to Ninth Rank Secondary) to wear green robes. In addition, each exact Rank was indicated by a picture of unique animal (either real or legendary) sewn in a <a href="/wiki/Mandarin_square" title="Mandarin square">Mandarin square</a> on both the front and back of the robe, so fellow officials could identify someone's Rank from afar.</div></div></div> <p>The Ming dynasty empresses appeared to be wearing similar dress as their Song dynasty counterparts.<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The queens wore crown with decorations of dragons and phoenixes, and wore a red large-sleeves upper garments also decorated with dragon and phoenixes.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The dressing of officials' wives and mothers who were bestowed the title of "appointed lady" (<a href="/wiki/Mingfu" title="Mingfu">mingfu</a>; 命妇) were also strictly regulated.<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Emperors could bestow special types of robes to people that he favoured, such as the <i><a href="/wiki/Mangfu" title="Mangfu">mangfu</a></i>, the <i><a href="/w/index.php?title=Douniufu&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Douniufu (page does not exist)">douniufu</a></i> (斗牛服; "fighting bull" robe; the "fighting bull" is a two-horned dragon-like creature), and the <i><a href="/wiki/Feiyufu" title="Feiyufu">feiyufu</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:31_77-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:31-77"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>72<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The illegal use and production of those special robes were prohibited by imperial decree and could result to severe punishment or death.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The <a href="/wiki/Jiajing_Emperor" title="Jiajing Emperor">Jiajing Emperor</a> was the last ruler of the Ming dynasty; he made significant changes to the Ming dynasty dressing code in order to consolidate his imperial authority.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Jiajing Emperor was very focused in reforming the <i>yanfu</i> (燕服; casual or leisure clothing), as he found his own <i>yanfu</i> too vulgar and too common to befit his imperial status.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> At the end of 1528 AD, <i>yanfu's</i> new statutes, adjusted from the ancient <i><a href="/wiki/Xuanduan" title="Xuanduan">xuanduan</a></i>, were decreed. The <i>yanbian guanfu</i> (燕弁冠服; "Dress of the Casual Hat"), designed for the emperor, was in colour black bordered with a green trim and featured 143 dragons, with a dragon medallion on the front of the clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>zhongjing guanfu</i> (忠靜冠服 or 忠靖冠服; "Dress of Loyalty and Tranquility"), designed for the ranked officials, was dark green in colour; while cloud patterns were granted to the robe for third-rank and above officials, fourth-rank and below officials had to wear plain robes.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>baohe guanfu</i> (保和冠服; "Dress of Preserving Harmony"), designed for the royal princes), was in colour green and bordered with a green trim, and had two rank badges that showed dragon designs.<i><sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></i> </p><p>The <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a> suddenly made a comeback among Han Chinese and became the formal scholar official robe when the Ming dynasty was founded in 1368 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-:68_153-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:68-153"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>142<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The scholar officials wore <i><a href="/w/index.php?title=Chengziyi&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Chengziyi (page does not exist)">chengziyi</a></i> (程子衣) as leisure clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:28_174-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:28-174"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>162<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:79_175-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:79-175"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>163<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Hats worn by the scholars and literati were: the <i>sifang pingding jin</i> (四方平定巾; flat-top square hat), the <i><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dongpo_jin&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Dongpo jin (page does not exist)">dongpo jin</a></i> (東坡巾; "Dongpo hat"), and the <i>fangjin</i> (方巾).<sup id="cite_ref-:79_175-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:79-175"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>163<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:11_118-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:11-118"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>108<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">daopao</a> was worn as a casual dress by all levels of society, including the External officials and eunuchs.<sup id="cite_ref-:79_175-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:79-175"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>163<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i><a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)">zhishen</a></i> was also worn by eunuchs sometimes to show their superiority.<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Commoner men usually wore plain-coloured clothing while commoner women wore upper garments and skirts of light colours.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Ricciportrait.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Matteo Ricci in a Ming-style daopao"><img alt="Matteo Ricci in a Ming-style daopao" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Ricciportrait.jpg/120px-Ricciportrait.jpg" decoding="async" width="91" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Ricciportrait.jpg/250px-Ricciportrait.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="740" data-file-height="974" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Matteo_Ricci" title="Matteo Ricci">Matteo Ricci</a> in a Ming-style <a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">daopao</a></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Wu_Weiye.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A scholar-bureaucrat in casual dress."><img alt="A scholar-bureaucrat in casual dress." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/97/Wu_Weiye.jpg/120px-Wu_Weiye.jpg" decoding="async" width="78" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/97/Wu_Weiye.jpg/250px-Wu_Weiye.jpg 2x" data-file-width="740" data-file-height="1135" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A scholar-bureaucrat in casual dress. </div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:The_Portrait_of_Koxinga.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Portrait of Koxinga in formal dress."><img alt="Portrait of Koxinga in formal dress." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/09/The_Portrait_of_Koxinga.jpg/120px-The_Portrait_of_Koxinga.jpg" decoding="async" width="71" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/09/The_Portrait_of_Koxinga.jpg/250px-The_Portrait_of_Koxinga.jpg 2x" data-file-width="537" data-file-height="900" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Portrait of <a href="/wiki/Koxinga" title="Koxinga">Koxinga</a> in formal dress.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Dinastia_ming,_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai,_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Ming-era clerks of various positions"><img alt="Ming-era clerks of various positions" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG/102px-Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG" decoding="async" width="102" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG/154px-Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG/205px-Dinastia_ming%2C_corteo_funerario_in_ceramica_sancai%2C_1368-1644_ca._03.JPG 2x" data-file-width="2424" data-file-height="2838" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Ming-era clerks of various positions</div> </li> </ul> <p>Though the Ming dynasty restored Hanfu, the dynasty also brought many changes.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, the formal robes of the early Ming emperors had close-fitting sleeves instead of the Song dynasty's voluminous sleeves.<sup id="cite_ref-:21_165-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:21-165"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>153<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The collar of the Ming dynasty clothing changed from the symmetrical type of the Song dynasty to the circular type.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Moreover, under the influence of the Yuan dynasty's court dress, the <i>xiongbei</i> (胸背; central badges) found on the official cloths became square in shape, different from Song dynasty's round shape.<sup id="cite_ref-:30_143-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:30-143"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>132<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 51">: 51 </span></sup> Compared with the clothing of the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a>, the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming dynasty was significantly inverted.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Since the upper garment was shorter and the lower garment was longer, the jacket gradually became longer to cover the exposed skirt.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The Ming dynasty implemented the use of gold and silver interlocking buckles to close clothing and collars.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:29_176-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:29-176"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>164<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the middle of the Ming dynasty, the interlocking buttons were often paired with the upper garment with standing collar; it was commonly used by women partially because they wanted to cover their bodies to show modesty and preserve their chastity and because of the cold climate period.<sup id="cite_ref-:29_176-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:29-176"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>164<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Skirts with pleats became very popular and the skirt colour tended to be light.<sup id="cite_ref-Ming:15_171-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>159<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Another form of skirt which was worn in the Ming dynasty is a skirt with two pieces which was deeply pleated and was sewn to a separate, single waistband.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the late Ming dynasty, Ming dynasty women wore the <a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">pifeng</a> daily, the <i>ru</i> (short jacket) with a skirt and a short over skirt (yaoqun), the <i>ao</i> (袄; a long jacket) which is worn with a skirt, and the <i><a href="/wiki/Bijia" title="Bijia">bijia</a></i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 48–51">: 48–51 </span></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Shuitianyi" title="Shuitianyi">shuitiany<i>i</i></a> was also worn in the late Ming dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 48–51">: 48–51 </span></sup> Han Chinese women also wore <a href="/wiki/Dudou" title="Dudou">dudou</a> as an underwear.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Mingbanbi.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Old lady in banbi accompanied by maid"><img alt="Old lady in banbi accompanied by maid" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Mingbanbi.jpg/120px-Mingbanbi.jpg" decoding="async" width="68" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Mingbanbi.jpg/250px-Mingbanbi.jpg 2x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="1054" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Old lady in <a href="/wiki/Banbi" title="Banbi">banbi</a> accompanied by maid</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A female ghost in typical Ming-style Hanfu, adapted from a Buddhist allegory"><img alt="A female ghost in typical Ming-style Hanfu, adapted from a Buddhist allegory" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg/45px-%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg" decoding="async" width="45" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg/67px-%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg/89px-%E5%A2%AE%E8%83%8E%E7%94%A2%E4%BA%A1%E5%9A%B4%E5%AF%92%E5%A4%A7%E6%9A%91%E5%AD%A4%E9%AD%82%E7%9C%BE2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="260" data-file-height="696" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A female ghost in typical Ming-style Hanfu, adapted from a Buddhist allegory </div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Minggirl.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Painting of a Ming dynasty woman."><img alt="Painting of a Ming dynasty woman." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Minggirl.jpg/60px-Minggirl.jpg" decoding="async" width="53" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/eb/Minggirl.jpg/120px-Minggirl.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="420" data-file-height="952" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Painting of a <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a> woman.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Ming_noble_woman.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Ming noble woman."><img alt="Ming noble woman." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/Ming_noble_woman.jpg/120px-Ming_noble_woman.jpg" decoding="async" width="64" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/Ming_noble_woman.jpg/250px-Ming_noble_woman.jpg 2x" data-file-width="506" data-file-height="942" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Ming noble woman.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%BC%86%E7%BA%B1%E7%8F%A0%E7%BF%A0%E5%BA%86%E4%BA%91%E5%86%A0.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Diji (䯼髻/狄髻), a type of decorative guan worn over topknot, became a common type of headwear among married women of status."><img alt="Diji (䯼髻/狄髻), a type of decorative guan worn over topknot, became a common type of headwear among married women of status." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/%E6%BC%86%E7%BA%B1%E7%8F%A0%E7%BF%A0%E5%BA%86%E4%BA%91%E5%86%A0.jpg/120px-%E6%BC%86%E7%BA%B1%E7%8F%A0%E7%BF%A0%E5%BA%86%E4%BA%91%E5%86%A0.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="68" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/%E6%BC%86%E7%BA%B1%E7%8F%A0%E7%BF%A0%E5%BA%86%E4%BA%91%E5%86%A0.jpg/250px-%E6%BC%86%E7%BA%B1%E7%8F%A0%E7%BF%A0%E5%BA%86%E4%BA%91%E5%86%A0.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="4221" data-file-height="2375" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><i>Diji</i> (䯼髻/狄髻), a type of decorative <i>guan</i> worn over topknot, became a common type of headwear among married women of status.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5a/%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg/90px-%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5a/%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg/135px-%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5a/%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg/180px-%E5%90%B3%E6%B0%8F%E5%85%88%E7%A5%96%E5%AE%B9%E5%83%8F%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80.jpg 2x" data-file-width="768" data-file-height="1024" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:X_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_Ma_of_Taizu.JPG" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/X_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_Ma_of_Taizu.JPG/120px-X_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_Ma_of_Taizu.JPG" decoding="async" width="86" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/X_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_Ma_of_Taizu.JPG/250px-X_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_Ma_of_Taizu.JPG 1.5x" data-file-width="7703" data-file-height="10714" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg/120px-China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg" decoding="async" width="96" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg/145px-China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg/193px-China%27s_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoKe.jpg 2x" data-file-width="225" data-file-height="280" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chinese_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoJie.JPG" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Chinese_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoJie.JPG/120px-Chinese_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoJie.JPG" decoding="async" width="97" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Chinese_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoJie.JPG/250px-Chinese_Ming_Dynasty_Empress_XiaoJie.JPG 1.5x" data-file-width="368" data-file-height="455" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"></div> </li> </ul> <p>While clothing regulation were strictly enforced in the early Ming dynasty; it started to weaken in the Mid-Ming dynasty (around the early 16th century) which has been attributed to the failing of ritual practice and the expansion of commercialization which has led to a weakened state control over the clothing system, and thus to an eventual dress code transgression.<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the late Ming, the dress code was widely transgressed by sons of officials and eunuchs who clothes which did not denote their real social status.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Fashion changed quickly relatively to the earlier years during the late Ming which caused distress to the literati.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The literati were also concerned about the wives of the elites who would parade and show off their clothing and ornaments without having anyone to reproach them.<sup id="cite_ref-:25_167-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:25-167"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>155<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Despite the attempts of Confucians scholars to urge the ban of illegal and/or improper dress, the dressing code was not enforced by the imperial court.<sup id="cite_ref-:26_168-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:26-168"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>156<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>When Han Chinese ruled the Vietnamese in the <a href="/wiki/Fourth_Chinese_domination_of_Vietnam" class="mw-redirect" title="Fourth Chinese domination of Vietnam">Fourth Chinese domination of Vietnam</a> due to the Ming dynasty's conquest during the <a href="/wiki/Ming%E2%80%93H%E1%BB%93_War" class="mw-redirect" title="Ming–Hồ War">Ming–Hồ War</a> they <a href="/wiki/Culture_of_Vietnam#Hairstyle_and_teeth_blackening" title="Culture of Vietnam">imposed the Han Chinese style of men wearing long hair on short haired Vietnamese men</a>. Vietnamese were ordered to stop cutting and instead grow their hair long and switch to Hanfu in only a month by a Ming official. Ming administrators said their mission was to civilized the unorthodox Vietnamese barbarians.<sup id="cite_ref-178" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-178"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>166<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Ming dynasty only wanted the Vietnamese to wear long hair and to stop <a href="/wiki/Ohaguro" title="Ohaguro">teeth blackening</a> so they could have white teeth and long hair like Chinese.<sup id="cite_ref-179" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-179"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>167<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A royal edict was issued by Vietnam in 1474 forbidding Vietnamese from adopting foreign languages, hairstyles and clothes like that of the Lao, Champa or the "Northerners" which referred to the Ming. The edict was recorded in the 1479 <a href="/wiki/%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i_Vi%E1%BB%87t_s%E1%BB%AD_k%C3%BD_to%C3%A0n_th%C6%B0" title="Đại Việt sử ký toàn thư">Complete Chronicle of Dai Viet</a> of <a href="/wiki/Ng%C3%B4_S%C4%A9_Li%C3%AAn" title="Ngô Sĩ Liên">Ngô Sĩ Liên</a> in the <a href="/wiki/Later_L%C3%AA_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Later Lê dynasty">Later Lê dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-180" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-180"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>168<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Vietnamese had adopted the Chinese political system and culture during the 1,000 years of Chinese rule so they viewed their surrounding neighbours like Khmer Cambodians as barbarians and themselves as a small version of China (the Middle Kingdom).<sup id="cite_ref-181" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-181"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>169<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> By the <a href="/wiki/Nguyen_dynasty" class="mw-redirect" title="Nguyen dynasty">Nguyen dynasty</a> the Vietnamese themselves were ordering Cambodian Khmer to adopt Han Chinese culture by ceasing "barbarous" habits like cropping hair and ordering them to grow it long besides making them replace skirts with trousers.<sup id="cite_ref-182" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-182"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>170<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Qing_dynasty">Qing dynasty</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=21" title="Edit section: Qing dynasty"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Development_of_Qing_imperial_court_clothing">Development of Qing imperial court clothing</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=22" title="Edit section: Development of Qing imperial court clothing"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">Dragon robe</a></div> <p>In the <a href="/wiki/Liao_dynasty" title="Liao dynasty">Liao</a>, <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(1115%E2%80%931234)" title="Jin dynasty (1115–1234)">Jin</a>, <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming</a> dynasties, <a href="/wiki/Jurchens_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Jurchens people">Jurchen people</a> mainly wore <i>Zuojun</i> gowns. The robes and clothes of the Manchus before entering the customs are called "yijie" in Manchu. They are clothes worn by men, women and children throughout the year. Each gown is cut from a whole piece of clothing. The basic structure is a round neck, a large flap, a left gusset, four-sided slits, a waistband and horseshoe sleeves.<sup id="cite_ref-Gu_Fanying_183-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Gu_Fanying-183"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>171<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>It was mistakenly thought that the hunting ancestors of the Manchus skin clothes became <a href="/wiki/Qing_dynasty" title="Qing dynasty">Qing dynasty</a> clothing, due to the contrast between Ming dynasty clothes unshaped cloth's straight length contrasting to the odd-shaped pieces of Qing dynasty <i><a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">longpao</a></i> and <i>chaofu</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:98_184-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:98-184"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>172<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 103">: 103 </span></sup> Scholars from the west initially wrongly thought these clothing were purely Manchu as the early Manchu rulers wrote several edicts stressing on maintaining their traditions and clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:98_184-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:98-184"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>172<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 103">: 103 </span></sup> However, there is evidence from excavated tombs which indicates that China had a long tradition of garments that led to the development of the Qing chaofu, and it was not invented or introduced by Manchus in the Qing dynasty or Mongols in the Yuan dynasty. In some cases, the Qing dynasty went further than the Ming dynasty in imitating ancient China to display legitimacy with resurrecting ancient Chinese rituals to claim the <a href="/wiki/Mandate_of_Heaven" title="Mandate of Heaven">Mandate of Heaven</a> after studying Chinese classics. Qing sacrificial ritual vessels deliberately resemble ancient Chinese ones even more than Ming vessels.<sup id="cite_ref-:98_184-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:98-184"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>172<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 106">: 106 </span></sup> <a href="/wiki/Tungusic_peoples" title="Tungusic peoples">Tungusic</a> people on the <a href="/wiki/Amur_river" class="mw-redirect" title="Amur river">Amur river</a> like <a href="/wiki/Udege_people" title="Udege people">Udeghe</a>, <a href="/wiki/Ulchi" class="mw-redirect" title="Ulchi">Ulchi</a> and <a href="/wiki/Nani_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Nani people">Nanai</a> adopted Chinese influences in their religion and clothing with Chinese dragons on ceremonial robes, scroll and spiral bird and monster mask designs, <a href="/wiki/Chinese_New_Year" title="Chinese New Year">Chinese New Year</a>, using silk and cotton, iron cooking pots, and heated house from China during the <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-185" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-185"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>173<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p> Moreover, the <a href="/wiki/Manchu_people" title="Manchu people">Manchus</a> originally did not have their own dragon robes or weave textiles and they had to obtain Ming <a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe#China" title="Dragon robe">dragon robes</a>, <i>Chaofu</i> and cloth when they paid tribute to the Ming or traded with the Ming.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Therefore, Manchu clothes were modified the Hanfu of Ming China to form their court costume, making it easier to use while hunting.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The development of Manchu clothing in the late Ming Dynasty mainly imitated Mongolian clothing, and the arrow sleeves are obviously characteristics of Mongolian clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-Liu_Fei_186-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Liu_Fei-186"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>174<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Ming dragon robes were simply modified, cut, and tailored by Manchus at the sleeves and waist to make them narrow around the arms and waist instead of wide and added a new narrow cuff to the sleeves;<sup id="cite_ref-:52_187-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:52-187"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>175<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 157">: 157 </span></sup> they also made slits in the skirt to make it suitable for falconry, horse riding and archery.<sup id="cite_ref-:52_187-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:52-187"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>175<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 158">: 158 </span></sup> The new cuff was made out of fur. The robe's jacket waist had a new strip of scrap cloth put on the waist while the waist was made snug by pleating the top of the skirt on the robe.<sup id="cite_ref-:52_187-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:52-187"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>175<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 159">: 159 </span></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Manchu_people" title="Manchu people">Manchus</a> added sable fur skirts, cuffs and collars to Ming dragon robes and trimming sable fur all over them before wearing them.<sup id="cite_ref-:22_173-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:22-173"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>161<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 25">: 25 </span></sup> However, some denied that the popular Manchu jackets in the Qing Dynasty originated from the Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-188" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-188"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>176<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-189" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-189"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>177<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Han Chinese court costume (<i>chaofu</i>) was modified by the Manchu by adding a ceremonial big collar (daling) or shawl collar (pijianling); the clothing was also reduced in bulk, the sleeves made narrower, and the side-fastening changed from cross-collared to a curved overlapping right front.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-190" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-190"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>178<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The clothing was fastened with loops and buttons.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Manchu also decorated their early Qing robes with dragons similarly to the Ming chaofu.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Kangxi_Emperor.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Kangxi Emperor in casual dress."><img alt="Kangxi Emperor in casual dress." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Kangxi_Emperor.jpg/120px-Kangxi_Emperor.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Kangxi_Emperor.jpg/250px-Kangxi_Emperor.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="827" data-file-height="1143" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Kangxi_Emperor" title="Kangxi Emperor">Kangxi Emperor</a> in casual dress.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E4%B9%BE%E9%9A%86%E7%9A%87%E5%B8%9D%E8%80%81%E5%B9%B4%E8%82%96%E5%83%8F.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Qianlong Emperor in chaofu (court dress), Qing dynasty"><img alt="Qianlong Emperor in chaofu (court dress), Qing dynasty" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/%E4%B9%BE%E9%9A%86%E7%9A%87%E5%B8%9D%E8%80%81%E5%B9%B4%E8%82%96%E5%83%8F.jpg/120px-%E4%B9%BE%E9%9A%86%E7%9A%87%E5%B8%9D%E8%80%81%E5%B9%B4%E8%82%96%E5%83%8F.jpg" decoding="async" width="83" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/%E4%B9%BE%E9%9A%86%E7%9A%87%E5%B8%9D%E8%80%81%E5%B9%B4%E8%82%96%E5%83%8F.jpg/250px-%E4%B9%BE%E9%9A%86%E7%9A%87%E5%B8%9D%E8%80%81%E5%B9%B4%E8%82%96%E5%83%8F.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1592" data-file-height="2304" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Qianlong_Emperor" title="Qianlong Emperor">Qianlong Emperor</a> in chaofu (court dress), Qing dynasty</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Qing dynasty Empress Robe, reign of Yongzheng Emperor."><img alt="Qing dynasty Empress Robe, reign of Yongzheng Emperor." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg/120px-Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg/180px-Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg/240px-Qing_Dynasty_Empress_Robe.jpg 2x" data-file-width="6438" data-file-height="4292" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Qing_dynasty" title="Qing dynasty">Qing dynasty</a> Empress Robe, reign of <a href="/wiki/Yongzheng_Emperor" title="Yongzheng Emperor">Yongzheng Emperor</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Spencer_Museum_of_Art" title="Spencer Museum of Art">Spencer Museum of Art</a> has six <i><a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">longpao</a></i> robes that belonged to Han Chinese <a href="/wiki/Royal_and_noble_ranks_of_the_Qing_dynasty" title="Royal and noble ranks of the Qing dynasty">nobility of the Qing dynasty</a> which shows the diversity of the late 18th and 19th century non-imperial dragon robes.<sup id="cite_ref-:98_184-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:98-184"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>172<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 115">: 115 </span></sup> Ranked officials and Han Chinese nobles had two slits in the skirts while Manchu nobles and the Imperial family had 4 slits in skirts. All first, second and third rank officials as well as Han Chinese and Manchu nobles were entitled to wear 9 dragons by the Qing Illustrated Precedents. Qing sumptuary laws only allowed four clawed dragons for officials, Han Chinese nobles and Manchu nobles while the Qing Imperial family, emperor and princes up to the second degree and their female family members were entitled to wear five clawed dragons. However officials violated these laws all the time and wore 5 clawed dragons and the Spencer Museum's 6 long pao worn by Han Chinese nobles have 5 clawed dragons on them.<sup id="cite_ref-:98_184-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:98-184"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>172<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 117">: 117 </span></sup> </p> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c0/Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg/250px-Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg" decoding="async" width="191" height="320" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c0/Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg/330px-Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c0/Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg/500px-Qing_Dynasty_Lady_in_a_red_robe.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2000" data-file-height="3346" /></a><figcaption>Lady in a red robe, with a <a href="/wiki/Xiapei" title="Xiapei">xiapei</a> on top of her robe, and a <a href="/wiki/Fengguan" title="Fengguan">coronet</a>, Qing dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>Wives of Han Chinese noblemen and high-ranking officials had to wear semi-official formal dresses on ceremonial events; their clothing consisted of a <i>mang ao</i> (a four-clawed dragon loose fitting jacket with wide sleeves), a <i><a href="/wiki/Xiapei" title="Xiapei">xiapei</a></i>, a <i>mang chu</i> (a dragon skirt which was embroidered with dragons and phoenixes on the front and back skirt panels), a <i>jiao dai</i> (a rigid hooped belt which was worn around the jacket) and a phoenix coronet.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The women <i>mang ao</i> was red in colour if the wearer was a man's principle wife; it was originally undecorated but started to be decorated with dragon by the 18th century.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>xiapei</i> was developed from the <i>xiapei</i> worn in Ming dynasty; the <i>xiapei</i> in Qing was first worn when the wedding day of a woman; after the wedding, she would wear it for special important events which were connected with her husband's status.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Clothing_reform_by_Qianlong">Clothing reform by Qianlong</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=23" title="Edit section: Clothing reform by Qianlong"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The Qing dynasty court continued to reform and regulate the clothing of its subjects, but discussion on ethnic clothing was a sensitive topic even after the Qing dynasty had consolidated its rule.<sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> By 1759 AD, the <a href="/wiki/Qianlong_Emperor" title="Qianlong Emperor">Qianlong Emperor</a> commissioned the <i>Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court</i> (<i>Huangchao Liqi Tushi</i>) which was published and enforced by 1766; this publication covered several aspects including the dressing and accessories of the emperors, princes, noblemen and their consorts, Manchu officials, their wives and daughters, and the dress codes for Han Chinese men officials who had reached the rank of mandarin and were employed and their wives; as well as Han Chinese men who were waiting for an official appointment.<sup id="cite_ref-:53_119-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:53-119"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>109<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 2–3">: 2–3 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The aim of this edict was made to preserve the Manchu identity once again, but at the same time, it also attempted to align the image of the emperor with Confucian ideas and codes of behaviours and manners.<sup id="cite_ref-191" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-191"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>179<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The dress code designed in the <i>Huangchao Liqi Tushi</i> continued to be used as the standard for the court attire until the end of the Qing dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:53_119-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:53-119"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>109<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 2–3">: 2–3 </span></sup> The Manchu continued to use the five colours symbolism in their clothing which was in line with the previous Han Chinese dynasties; however, they chose the colour blue as their dynasty colour and generally avoided the use of red colour in their clothing because red was the dynasty colour of Ming dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> On the other hand, Han Chinese continued to view red as a lucky colour because of its connection with rulers of Ming dynasty, and used it extensively in celebratory events and at weddings.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Ban_of_Chinese_clothing_and_hairstyle">Ban of Chinese clothing and hairstyle</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=24" title="Edit section: Ban of Chinese clothing and hairstyle"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/Tifayifu" title="Tifayifu">Tifayifu</a> and <a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">Qizhuang</a></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg/330px-%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg" decoding="async" width="282" height="168" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg/500px-%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg/960px-%E5%BA%B7%E7%86%99%E5%B8%9D%E5%8D%97%E5%B7%A1%E5%9B%BE%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8C%E6%B2%BB%E9%BB%83%E6%B2%B3.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1136" data-file-height="676" /></a><figcaption>Coexistence of Hanfu and <a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">Manchu clothing</a>, Qing dynasty</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg/250px-%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="440" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg/330px-%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e4/%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg/500px-%E6%B8%85%E5%8A%89%E9%96%AC%E6%98%A5%E7%B9%AA%E8%BE%B2%E6%9D%91%E6%BC%94%E6%88%B2%E5%9C%96.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1025" data-file-height="2048" /></a><figcaption>Hanfu, early Qing dynasty</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg/220px-Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="165" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg/330px-Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg/440px-Taoist_Priests_in_White_Cloud_Temple_Beijing_Qing_Dynasty.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3744" data-file-height="2808" /></a><figcaption>Hanfu continues to be worn by the Taoist clergy. Photo taken from between 1890 and 1910.</figcaption></figure> <p>When the Manchus established the Qing dynasty, the authorities issued decrees having Han Chinese men to adopt Manchu hairstyle by shaving their hair on the front of the head and braiding the hair on the back of the head into pigtails. The resistances against the hair shaving policy were suppressed.<sup id="cite_ref-192" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-192"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>180<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Han Chinese did not object to wearing the queue braid on the back of the head as they traditionally wore all their hair long, but fiercely objected to shaving the forehead so the Qing government exclusively focused on forcing people to shave the forehead rather than wear the braid. Han rebels in the first half of the Qing who objected to Qing hairstyle wore the braid but defied orders to shave the front of the head. One person was executed for refusing to shave the front but he had willingly braided the back of his hair.<sup id="cite_ref-:42_193-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:42-193"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>181<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg/220px-A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="147" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg/330px-A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg/440px-A_Night_Banquet_at_Peach_and_Plum_Garden_in_Spring.jpg 2x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="402" /></a><figcaption>Hanfu worn by men and women, from <i>A Night Banquet at Peach and Plum Garden in Spring</i> painting, Qing dynasty, before 1772</figcaption></figure> <p>The Qing imposed the shaved head hairstyle on men of all ethnicities under its rule even before 1644 like upon the <a href="/wiki/Nanai_people" title="Nanai people">Nanai people</a> in the 1630s who had to shave their foreheads.<sup id="cite_ref-194" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-194"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>182<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-195" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-195"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>183<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 1645, <a href="/wiki/Tifayifu" title="Tifayifu">tifayifu</a> edict was issued;<sup id="cite_ref-196" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-196"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>184<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> however it was strongly opposed by the Han Chinese, in particular those who belonged to the late Ming dynasty scholars class and literati.<sup id="cite_ref-:78_197-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:78-197"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>185<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Qing Manchu prince Dorgon initially canceled the order for all men in Ming territories south of the Great wall (post 1644 additions to the Qing) to shave. It was a Han official from Shandong, Sun Zhixie and Li Ruolin who voluntarily shaved their foreheads and demanded Qing Prince Dorgon impose the queue hairstyle on the entire population which led to the queue order.<sup id="cite_ref-198" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-198"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>186<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-199" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-199"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>187<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Even after a decade following <i>tifayifu</i> policy implementation, Han Chinese still resisted against the order of shaving the hair and changing into <a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">Manchu clothing</a> frequently.<sup id="cite_ref-:78_197-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:78-197"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>185<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Even during <a href="/wiki/Kangxi_Emperor" title="Kangxi Emperor">emperor Kangxi</a>'s reign, a large number of ordinary people continued to wear Ming dynasty hairstyles and clothing; however, the Han Chinese officials and military generals had to wear the queue and Manchu clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:78_197-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:78-197"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>185<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The men of certain ethnicities who came under Qing rule later like <a href="/wiki/Salar_people" title="Salar people">Salar people</a> and <a href="/wiki/Uyghur_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Uyghur people">Uyghur people</a> already shaved all their heads bald so the shaving order was redundant.<sup id="cite_ref-200" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-200"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>188<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, the shaving policy was not enforced in the <a href="/wiki/Tusi" title="Tusi">Tusi</a> autonomous chiefdoms in Southwestern China where many minorities lived. There was one Han Chinese Tusi, the <a href="/wiki/Chiefdom_of_Kokang" title="Chiefdom of Kokang">Chiefdom of Kokang</a> populated by Han <a href="/wiki/Kokang_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Kokang people">Kokang people</a>. </p> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:ZhangZhiyuan.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/ZhangZhiyuan.jpg/123px-ZhangZhiyuan.jpg" decoding="async" width="123" height="242" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/ZhangZhiyuan.jpg/184px-ZhangZhiyuan.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/ZhangZhiyuan.jpg/245px-ZhangZhiyuan.jpg 2x" data-file-width="927" data-file-height="1827" /></a><figcaption>Han Chinese general Zhang Zhiyuan wearing Manchu-style military outfit.<sup id="cite_ref-:52_187-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:52-187"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>175<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 149">: 149 </span></sup></figcaption></figure> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E9%BB%83%E9%81%B5%E6%86%B2.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/%E9%BB%83%E9%81%B5%E6%86%B2.jpg/250px-%E9%BB%83%E9%81%B5%E6%86%B2.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="241" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/%E9%BB%83%E9%81%B5%E6%86%B2.jpg/330px-%E9%BB%83%E9%81%B5%E6%86%B2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="430" data-file-height="691" /></a><figcaption>Portrait of <a href="/wiki/Huang_Zunxian" title="Huang Zunxian">Huang Zunxian</a> wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Changshan" title="Changshan">changshan</a></i>, the Han Chinese derivative of <i><a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">qizhuang</a></i> which combined features of the <i><a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">daopao</a>.</i></figcaption></figure> <p>During the <a href="/wiki/Qianlong_Emperor" title="Qianlong Emperor">Qianlong reign</a>, Liu Zhenyu was executed for urging the return of presumably Ming dynasty clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, during this period, Manchu style clothing was only required for scholar-official elite, such as the <a href="/wiki/Eight_Banners" title="Eight Banners">Eight Banners</a> members and Han men serving as government officials, but not the entire male population; therefore, Han Chinese men were allowed to continue to dress in Ming dynasty clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> But as time passed, Han civilian men eventually voluntarily adopted Manchu clothing like <a href="/wiki/Changshan" title="Changshan">changshan</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Magua_(clothing)" title="Magua (clothing)">magua</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Twitchett,_Denis_2008_p87-88_202-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Twitchett,_Denis_2008_p87-88-202"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>190<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the beginning of the Mid-Qing period, the discourses and resistance against the Manchu clothing regulations gradually disappeared.<sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> By the late Qing dynasty, not only officials and scholars, but a great many commoners as well, started to wear Manchu attire.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Twitchett,_Denis_2008_p87-88_202-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Twitchett,_Denis_2008_p87-88-202"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>190<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In the <a href="/wiki/Edo_period" title="Edo period">Edo period</a>, the <a href="/wiki/Tokugawa_Shogunate" class="mw-redirect" title="Tokugawa Shogunate">Tokugawa Shogunate</a> of Japan passed orders for Japanese men to shave the pate on the front of their head (the <span title="Japanese-language text"><i lang="ja-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Chonmage" title="Chonmage">chonmage</a></i></span> hairstyle) and shave their beards, facial hair and side whiskers.<sup id="cite_ref-:24_203-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:24-203"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>191<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 217">: 217 </span></sup> This was similar to the Qing dynasty queue order imposed by Dorgon making men shave the pates on the front of their heads.<sup id="cite_ref-:24_203-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:24-203"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>191<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 214">: 214 </span></sup> During the late Qing dynasty, the Vietnamese envoy to Qing were still wearing the official attire in Ming dynasty style. Some of the locals recognized their clothing, yet the envoy received both amusement and ridicule from those who did not.<sup id="cite_ref-204" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-204"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>192<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Tifayifu_exemptions">Tifayifu exemptions</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=25" title="Edit section: Tifayifu exemptions"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The implementation of <i>tifayifu</i> policy, the early Qing dynasty court also prohibited Han Chinese from wearing some specific Manchu items and prohibited banner-women from dressing as Han Chinese women in order to maintain ethnic distinction.<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The early Qing dynasty policies also mainly applied to Han Chinese men.<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Those who were exempted from such policies were women, children, <a href="/wiki/Buddhist_monks" class="mw-redirect" title="Buddhist monks">Buddhist</a> and <a href="/wiki/Daoshi" title="Daoshi">Taoist</a> monks, and Qing dynasty rebels; moreover, men in their living had to wear Manchu-clothing, but they could be buried in Hanfu after their death.<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Doolittle1876_206-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Doolittle1876-206"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>194<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Rebellion_and_resistance_to_Qing">Rebellion and resistance to Qing</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=26" title="Edit section: Rebellion and resistance to Qing"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg/220px-HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="165" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg/330px-HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg/440px-HK_%E7%81%A3%E4%BB%94%E5%8C%97_Wan_Chai_North_%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E6%9C%83%E5%B1%95_HKCEC_%E4%BD%B3%E5%A3%AB%E5%BE%97_%E6%8B%8D%E8%B3%A3_Christie%27s_Auction_%E9%A0%90%E5%B1%95_preview_art_Chinese_painting_n_calligraphy_May_2024_R12S_615.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4000" data-file-height="3000" /></a><figcaption>Taiping rebels being depicted as wearing <i>hanfu</i> and keeping long hair.</figcaption></figure> <p>Han Chinese rebels who went against the Qing dynasty even retained their queue braids on the back but the symbol of their rebellion against the Qing was the growing of hair on the front of the head, causing the Qing government to view shaving the front of the head as the primary sign of loyalty to the Qing rather than wearing the braid on the back which did not violate Han customs and which traditional Han did not object to.<sup id="cite_ref-Doolittle1876_206-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Doolittle1876-206"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>194<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-207" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-207"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>195<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Koxinga" title="Koxinga">Koxinga</a> insulted and criticized the Qing hairstyle by referring to the shaven pate looking like a fly.<sup id="cite_ref-:38_208-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:38-208"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>196<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 77">: 77 </span></sup> Koxinga and his men objected to shaving when the Qing demanded they shave in exchange for recognizing Koxinga as a feudatory.<sup id="cite_ref-:38_208-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:38-208"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>196<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 86">: 86 </span></sup>The Qing demanded that <a href="/wiki/Zheng_Jing" title="Zheng Jing">Zheng Jing</a> and his men on Taiwan shave in order to receive recognition as a fiefdom. His men and Ming prince <a href="/wiki/Zhu_Shugui" title="Zhu Shugui">Zhu Shugui</a> fiercely objected to shaving.<sup id="cite_ref-:38_208-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:38-208"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>196<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 187">: 187 </span></sup>His men and the last Ming dynasty prince, Zhu Shugui (1617 – 1683 AD), fiercely objected to the shaving decree.<sup id="cite_ref-:38_208-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:38-208"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>196<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 187">: 187 </span></sup> </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg/250px-Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="248" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg/330px-Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg/500px-Dragon_robe_-_Taiping_Kingdom_History_Museum.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3382" data-file-height="3820" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">Dragon robe</a>, Taiping Kingdom</figcaption></figure> <p>In the <a href="/wiki/Taiping_Heavenly_Kingdom" title="Taiping Heavenly Kingdom">Taiping Heavenly Kingdom</a>, Qing dynasty's clothing and queue braids were opposed and forbidden on cultural and nationalistic grounds, as many in the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom were of <a href="/wiki/Hakka" class="mw-redirect" title="Hakka">Hakka</a> descent who opposed the rule of <a href="/wiki/Manchu" class="mw-redirect" title="Manchu">Manchu</a>. In an attempt to restore the identity of the Han Chinese, the Taiping rebels established their own clothing system, which introduced dedicated uniforms and features of Hakka fashion, removing characteristics of <a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">qizhuang</a> such as the <i>matixiu</i> or horse-hoof cuffs and hats used by the Qing. <sup id="cite_ref-209" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-209"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>197<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The rebels let their hair grow, wearing headscarves or red turbans over them, while others kept their queues hidden under the turbans. Though many of the male fashion still retained many similarities with that of the Qing dynasty. <sup id="cite_ref-:59_210-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:59-210"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>198<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-211" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-211"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>199<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:123_212-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:123-212"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>200<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The kings and princes of the Heavenly Kingdom were the only people allowed to wear yellow <a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">dragon robe</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:123_212-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:123-212"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>200<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>At the same during the Taiping Rebellion, <a href="/wiki/Red_Turban_Rebellion_(1854%E2%80%931856)" title="Red Turban Rebellion (1854–1856)">the Red Turban Rebellion</a> broke out in the Guangdong region, whom among their leaders was the locally popular <a href="/wiki/Red_Boat_Opera_Company" title="Red Boat Opera Company">Red Boat Opera Company</a> performer Li Wenmao. Due to opera costumes being exempt from the ban on hanfu, and opera's role in the vernacular culture and identity of the Han Chinese, many of the rebels dressed in opera costumes and organized themselves in roles similar to that of historical opera plays, with Li Wenmao himself supposedly donning the Ming dynasty <i><a href="/wiki/Mangfu" title="Mangfu">mangfu</a></i>. Newly selected civil and military officials also wore respective opera costumes of civil official and military character roles that were analogous to their stations.<sup id="cite_ref-213" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-213"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>201<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-214" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-214"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>202<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The clothing worn by Taiping Heavenly Kingdom were similarly based on confiscated or repurposed <i>paofu</i> from the opera stages, including the dragon robes worn by the leaders of the rebellion.<sup id="cite_ref-215" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-215"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>203<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-216" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-216"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>204<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>As a result, Ming dynasty style clothing was even retained in some places in China during the <a href="/wiki/Xinhai_Revolution" class="mw-redirect" title="Xinhai Revolution">Xinhai Revolution</a> in 1911 AD.<sup id="cite_ref-217" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-217"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>205<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the late Qing dynasty, some members of the <a href="/wiki/White_Lotus_Societies" title="White Lotus Societies">White Lotus sect</a> cut down their queues in an act of defiance while most of them only remove a hair strand or unbraided their hair and let it loose.<sup id="cite_ref-:59_210-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:59-210"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>198<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> After the Qing dynasty was toppled in the 1911 Xinhai revolution, the Taoist dress and topknot was adopted by the ordinary gentry and "Society for Restoring Ancient Ways" (Fuguhui) on the <a href="/wiki/Sichuan" title="Sichuan">Sichuan</a> and <a href="/wiki/Hubei" title="Hubei">Hubei</a> border where the White Lotus and <a href="/wiki/Gelaohui" title="Gelaohui">Gelaohui</a> operated.<sup id="cite_ref-218" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-218"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>206<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was only later westernized revolutionaries, influenced by western hairstyle who began to view the braid as backward and advocated adopting short haired western hairstyles.<sup id="cite_ref-:42_193-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:42-193"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>181<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Taoist_and_buddhist_priests/monks"><span id="Taoist_and_buddhist_priests.2Fmonks"></span>Taoist and buddhist priests/monks</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=27" title="Edit section: Taoist and buddhist priests/monks"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main articles: <a href="/wiki/Taoist_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Taoist clothing">Taoist clothing</a>, <a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">Daopao</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)">Zhiduo</a></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA,_OR_BONZE.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg/250px-PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg" decoding="async" width="185" height="216" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg/330px-PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg/500px-PORTRAIT_OF_A_LAMA%2C_OR_BONZE.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2576" data-file-height="3003" /></a><figcaption>Portrait of a lama or a bonze, drawing by William Alexander, draughtsman of the Macartney Embassy to China in 1793.</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:WangChangyue.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ac/WangChangyue.jpg/168px-WangChangyue.jpg" decoding="async" width="168" height="276" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ac/WangChangyue.jpg/252px-WangChangyue.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ac/WangChangyue.jpg/337px-WangChangyue.jpg 2x" data-file-width="488" data-file-height="800" /></a><figcaption><a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wang_Changyue" class="extiw" title="fr:Wang Changyue">Wang Chanyue</a> (?-1680 AD), seventh patriarch of the Longmen branch of the taoist school Quanzhen Dao, Qing dynasty.</figcaption></figure> <p>Neither Taoist priests nor Buddhist monks were required to wear the queue by the Qing; they continued to wear their traditional hairstyles, completely shaved heads for Buddhist monks, and long hair in the traditional Chinese topknot for Taoist priests.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-Gulik2010_219-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Gulik2010-219"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>207<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-220" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-220"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>208<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:42_193-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:42-193"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>181<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Taoist priests also continued to wear Taoist traditional dress and did not adopt Qing Manchu dress. Remains of the Ming dynasty subjects also invented various ways to preserve their hairstyle and their Han-style clothing (for example, in remote places).<sup id="cite_ref-:40_154-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:40-154"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>143<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> To avoid wearing the queue and shaving the forehead, the Ming loyalist Fu Shan became a Daoist priest after the Qing took over <a href="/wiki/Taiyuan" title="Taiyuan">Taiyuan</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-221" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-221"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>209<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Burial_practices">Burial practices</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=28" title="Edit section: Burial practices"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>After death, their hair could also be combed into a topknot similar to the ones worn by the Han Chinese in Ming; a practice which was observed by the <a href="/wiki/Ethnic_groups_in_Europe" title="Ethnic groups in Europe">Europeans</a>;<sup id="cite_ref-:59_210-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:59-210"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>198<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> men who were wealthy but held no official rank were allowed to be buried in a deep-blue silk <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a> which was edged with bright blue or white band.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Men who were in mourning were also exempted;<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> however, since the mourners were not allowed to wear topknot in accordance to the Confucian rites, the men simply untied their queues and left their loose hair dishevelled.<sup id="cite_ref-:59_210-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:59-210"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>198<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women from wealthy families could also be buried in a variation of <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a> called the <i>bai shou yi</i> (lit. "longevity jacket"), a deep blue or black ao with the character <i>shou</i> for longevity embroidered in gold all over the ao.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>bai shou yi</i> was worn with a white pleated skirt which was edged with blue satin; the skirt was embroidered with the many blue shou character.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Chinese_opera_and_drama_performers">Chinese opera and drama performers</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=29" title="Edit section: Chinese opera and drama performers"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Xifu_(Costume)" class="mw-redirect" title="Xifu (Costume)">Xifu (Costume)</a></div> <p>The ban of Hanfu also did not apply to performers who wore and displayed Hanfu-style costumes when performing dramas.<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Women's_clothing"><span id="Women.27s_clothing"></span>Women's clothing</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=30" title="Edit section: Women's clothing"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>For women's clothing, Manchu and Han fashions of clothing coexisted.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 7">: 7 </span></sup> The Han Chinese women carefully maintained their pure Han Chinese ethnicity and did not wear Manchu clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Throughout the Qing dynasty, Han women continued to wear clothing from Ming dynasty; however, with time, the Ming dynasty customs started to be forgotten and influence from the Manchu started to influence the women's clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-222" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-222"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>210<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Yet, Manchu women and Han Chinese women never emulated each other's clothing; and as a result, by the end of the nineteenth century, Manchu and Han Chinese women had maintained distinctive clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>At the beginning of the Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women were expected to continue the Han Chinese clothing of the Ming dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Manchu women wore a long, one-piece robe with a curving robe whereas Han Chinese women continued to wear the combination upper and lower garment.<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 7">: 7 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-223" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-223"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>211<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 31">: 31 </span></sup> As Han Chinese women were not forced to change in to Manchu clothing, most of the clothing elements of the Han Chinese women in the Qing dynasty continued to follow the style of the Ming dynasty's <a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">ao coat</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Following the Ming dynasty customs, Han Chinese women would wear <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">ruqun</a> and <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">aoqun</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-:49_201-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:49-201"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>189<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 31">: 31 </span></sup> which was a popular fashion in the Qing dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-225" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-225"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>213<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Trousers were sometimes worn under the skirts if they were commoners or unmarried.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 31">: 31 </span></sup> Han Chinese women, who were unmarried or were peasants, would wear <a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">shanku</a> without any overskirt.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_2-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 31">: 31 </span></sup> Wearing skirts were generally considered a symbol of maturity and was reserved for married women.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In the middle of the Qing dynasty, Manchu and Han Chinese women started to influence each other's clothing; however, they still maintain the uniqueness of their respective clothing styles.<sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 7">: 7 </span></sup> The late Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women in the gentry and aristocratic classes started to imitate the clothing of the Manchu; similarly, the Manchu women started to imitate the clothing of the Han Chinese women; and thus, they influenced each other.<sup id="cite_ref-:78_197-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:78-197"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>185<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page: 7">: 7 </span></sup> </p><p>In the late Qing dynasty, Han Chinese's ao continued to share some similarities with the ao worn in the Ming dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, the clothing worn by the Han Chinese women was also influenced by Manchu culture to some degree; for example, in terms of clothing colour, embroidery and binding.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The late Qing dynasty <i>ao</i> had large sleeves, a <a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Pipa-shaped_collars" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">slant opening</a> and was waist-length.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Elderly Chinese women wore an <i>ao</i> with round standing collar, which had a planket by the right, flat sleeves, sleeves which were wrist-length and had a wide cuff.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The collar of the Han Chinese <i>ao</i> may be standing collar or low collar stand, and there were slits on both sides of the <i>ao</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The waist-length <i>ao</i> could also have narrow sleeves and a front opening.<sup id="cite_ref-:61_224-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:61-224"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>212<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women clothing in the late Qing dynasty also had piped edges.<sup id="cite_ref-:17_33-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:17-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The silk skirts which are indigenous to Han Chinese women are a representative garment of the Qing dynasty clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A popular form of skirts during the Qing dynasty was the <a href="/wiki/Mamianqun" title="Mamianqun">mamianqun</a>, a skirt made of two separate pieces of fabric which are not sewn together from the waistline to the hemline; this skirt allowed women with <a href="/wiki/Foot_binding" title="Foot binding">bounded feet</a> to walk with greater ease.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:64_226-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:64-226"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>214<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The mamianqun had very subtle changes in both the cut and decorations throughout the Qing dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-:63_58-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:63-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Other Han Chinese women skirts which were popular in the Qing dynasty were the <i>baijianqun</i> (百襇裙; hundred pleated skirt), the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/zggd/info_103.aspx?itemid=25856"><i>yuehuaqun</i> (月華裙; moonlight skirt)</a> which was popular in the early Qing, the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/zggd/info_103.aspx?itemid=25854">phoenix tail skirt</a> which was popular during the <a href="/wiki/Kangxi_Emperor" title="Kangxi Emperor">reign of Kangxi</a> and <a href="/wiki/Qianlong_Emperor" title="Qianlong Emperor">Qianlong</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 80–83">: 80–83 </span></sup> and the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/zggd/info_103.aspx?itemid=25862">‘fish-scale’ skirt</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:64_226-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:64-226"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>214<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> At the end of the Qing dynasty, a skirt decorated with sword-shaped ribbons with <a href="/wiki/Bell" title="Bell">bells</a> hanging at the sharp corner appear.<sup id="cite_ref-:36_64-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:36-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 80–83">: 80–83 </span></sup> Han Chinese women also wore <a href="/wiki/Dudou" title="Dudou">dudou</a>, which was developed from the Ming dynasty dudou.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-20" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Outside China in 1911, the magazine <a href="/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)" title="Vogue (magazine)">Vogue</a> recommended shopping for a set of attire called "boudoir set" which consisted of the Qing dynasty aoqun with wide hems and wide sleeves, and shoes.<sup id="cite_ref-:103_227-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:103-227"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>215<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, by the <a href="/wiki/1911_Revolution" title="1911 Revolution">Xinhai revolution</a> in 1911, the wide hemmed and wide sleeved Qing dynasty aoqun was no more popular among urban Han Chinese women in China; instead they started to make their clothing narrower.<sup id="cite_ref-:103_227-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:103-227"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>215<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Ready-to-wear Western clothing had little popularity among Chinese consumers as due to proportion misfit of Western clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:103_227-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:103-227"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>215<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Thomson,_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_(4)_(Zeno_Fotografie).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="On the left, a Han Chinese woman wearing Han Chinese clothing composed of an ao and a skirt; on the right, a Manchu woman wearing a one-piece long robe, which is the precursor of the qipao."><img alt="On the left, a Han Chinese woman wearing Han Chinese clothing composed of an ao and a skirt; on the right, a Manchu woman wearing a one-piece long robe, which is the precursor of the qipao." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg/120px-Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg/180px-Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg/240px-Thomson%2C_John_-_Braut_aus_Manchu_%284%29_%28Zeno_Fotografie%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="998" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">On the left, a <a href="/wiki/Han_Chinese" title="Han Chinese">Han Chinese</a> woman wearing Han Chinese clothing composed of an ao and a skirt; on the right, a <a href="/wiki/Manchu" class="mw-redirect" title="Manchu">Manchu</a> woman wearing a one-piece long robe, which is the precursor of the <a href="/wiki/Qipao" class="mw-redirect" title="Qipao">qipao</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:MET_DP241368.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Qing dynasty aoqun worn in theatre for female role, 18th century."><img alt="Qing dynasty aoqun worn in theatre for female role, 18th century." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/MET_DP241368.jpg/120px-MET_DP241368.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/MET_DP241368.jpg/250px-MET_DP241368.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3919" data-file-height="2941" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Qing dynasty aoqun worn in theatre for female role, 18th century.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Playing_a_small_drum.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A woman dressed in an ao and a trousers, she is playing a small drum, from 1800."><img alt="A woman dressed in an ao and a trousers, she is playing a small drum, from 1800." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Playing_a_small_drum.jpg/120px-Playing_a_small_drum.jpg" decoding="async" width="88" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Playing_a_small_drum.jpg/250px-Playing_a_small_drum.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="561" data-file-height="760" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A woman dressed in an ao and a trousers, she is playing a small drum, from 1800.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Playing_a_zheng.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A woman wearing an ao with a long skirt, Playing a zheng, from 1800."><img alt="A woman wearing an ao with a long skirt, Playing a zheng, from 1800." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b2/Playing_a_zheng.jpg/87px-Playing_a_zheng.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b2/Playing_a_zheng.jpg/131px-Playing_a_zheng.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b2/Playing_a_zheng.jpg/174px-Playing_a_zheng.jpg 2x" data-file-width="553" data-file-height="760" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A woman wearing an ao with a long skirt, Playing a zheng, from 1800.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A woman wearing an ao and trousers under an overskirt, she is playing a wind instrument with a curved bell, from 1800."><img alt="A woman wearing an ao and trousers under an overskirt, she is playing a wind instrument with a curved bell, from 1800." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dd/Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg/87px-Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg" decoding="async" width="87" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dd/Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg/130px-Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dd/Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg/174px-Playing_a_wind_instrument_with_a_curved_bell.jpg 2x" data-file-width="551" data-file-height="760" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A woman wearing an ao and trousers under an overskirt, she is playing a wind instrument with a curved bell, from 1800.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chinese_embroidered_silk_lady%27s_jacket_and_pleated_skirt,_c._1900,_East-West_Center.JPG" class="mw-file-description" title="Han Chinese embroidered silk lady's jacket and pleated skirt, c. 1900."><img alt="Han Chinese embroidered silk lady's jacket and pleated skirt, c. 1900." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Chinese_embroidered_silk_lady%27s_jacket_and_pleated_skirt%2C_c._1900%2C_East-West_Center.JPG/120px-Chinese_embroidered_silk_lady%27s_jacket_and_pleated_skirt%2C_c._1900%2C_East-West_Center.JPG" decoding="async" width="63" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Chinese_embroidered_silk_lady%27s_jacket_and_pleated_skirt%2C_c._1900%2C_East-West_Center.JPG/250px-Chinese_embroidered_silk_lady%27s_jacket_and_pleated_skirt%2C_c._1900%2C_East-West_Center.JPG 2x" data-file-width="1295" data-file-height="2460" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Han Chinese embroidered silk lady's jacket and pleated skirt, c. 1900.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Han_women_during_the_Manchu_Qing_dynasty.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="The clothing of Han women during the 19th century. The top ao from Ming dynasty was changed into a variation of the Manchu qizhuang, while skirt, which inherited the Ming style, was also influenced by Qing-style patterns."><img alt="The clothing of Han women during the 19th century. The top ao from Ming dynasty was changed into a variation of the Manchu qizhuang, while skirt, which inherited the Ming style, was also influenced by Qing-style patterns." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Han_women_during_the_Manchu_Qing_dynasty.jpg/120px-Han_women_during_the_Manchu_Qing_dynasty.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="84" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Han_women_during_the_Manchu_Qing_dynasty.jpg/250px-Han_women_during_the_Manchu_Qing_dynasty.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="650" data-file-height="456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">The clothing of Han women during the 19th century. The top ao from Ming dynasty was changed into a variation of the Manchu qizhuang, while skirt, which inherited the Ming style, was also influenced by Qing-style patterns.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:China,_Qing_Dynasty,_late_19th_century_-_Woman%27s_Bridal_Dress,_Pleated_Skirt_-_2005.135.2_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Qing Dynasty pleated skirt; late 19th century"><img alt="Qing Dynasty pleated skirt; late 19th century" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/China%2C_Qing_Dynasty%2C_late_19th_century_-_Woman%27s_Bridal_Dress%2C_Pleated_Skirt_-_2005.135.2_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.jpg/120px-China%2C_Qing_Dynasty%2C_late_19th_century_-_Woman%27s_Bridal_Dress%2C_Pleated_Skirt_-_2005.135.2_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="119" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/China%2C_Qing_Dynasty%2C_late_19th_century_-_Woman%27s_Bridal_Dress%2C_Pleated_Skirt_-_2005.135.2_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.jpg/250px-China%2C_Qing_Dynasty%2C_late_19th_century_-_Woman%27s_Bridal_Dress%2C_Pleated_Skirt_-_2005.135.2_-_Cleveland_Museum_of_Art.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3400" data-file-height="3383" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Qing Dynasty pleated skirt; late 19th century</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Skirt_(AM_1944.51-1).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Woman's two panels skirt, Qing dynasty (1644-1912), Late 19th Century-Early 20th Century."><img alt="Woman's two panels skirt, Qing dynasty (1644-1912), Late 19th Century-Early 20th Century." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bb/Skirt_%28AM_1944.51-1%29.jpg/120px-Skirt_%28AM_1944.51-1%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="69" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bb/Skirt_%28AM_1944.51-1%29.jpg/250px-Skirt_%28AM_1944.51-1%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2601" data-file-height="1497" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Woman's two panels skirt, Qing dynasty (1644-1912), Late 19th Century-Early 20th Century.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading5"><h5 id="Children">Children</h5><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=31" title="Edit section: Children"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Infants would wear <a href="/wiki/Dudou" title="Dudou">dudou</a>, which was embroidered with luck charms, as their only clothing in hot summer months until they reach the age of two to three years old.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Han Chinese children were spared from the <i>tifayifu</i> policy and could be dressed in Hanfu;<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> their clothing was fastened to the right side in the Ming dynasty-style.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Their daily clothing was made of silk, and they would wear satin and silk clothing for special occasions; the colours of the clothing were brights and the clothing were typically red and pink as these were auspicious colours.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>They also wore a <a href="/wiki/Baijiayi" title="Baijiayi">baijiayi</a> in the Qing dynasty to wish a child good fortune and as an evil protection.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>They also wore different style of hats, such as the "rice bowl hat", the "tiger head hat", the "dog head hat", which aim to protect against evil spirit and later on to attract good fortunes when they have to take important examinations.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:27_6-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:27-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="20th_century">20th century</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=32" title="Edit section: 20th century"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>In 1912, the republic was established and government ministers were required to western-style clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-26" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Official attire for both men and women were regulated and published in the government gazettes; the men had to wear western-style clothing on formal days and evening, and in informal time, they could Western suit or <a href="/wiki/Changshan" title="Changshan">changshan</a> <a href="/wiki/Magua_(clothing)" title="Magua (clothing)">magua</a>. Women had to wear Qing style <a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">aoqun</a><sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women started to wear more western-style clothing, <a href="/wiki/Foot_binding" title="Foot binding">Foot binding</a> was legally abolished.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-28" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 1914 AD during the early years of the republic, cutting off the queue was a pre-requisite for provincial election votes, and in the 1914, policemen cut off the queue of any anyone arrested wearing queues.<sup id="cite_ref-:59_210-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:59-210"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>198<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p> After the fall of the Qing dynasty, <a href="/wiki/Yuan_Shikai" title="Yuan Shikai">Yuan Shikai</a> revived the <i>Sacrifice at the Temple of Heaven</i> ceremony; he also proclaimed himself as Emperor Hongxian and the beginning of a new dynasty; the robe and hat which specially designed for him to wear on the day of this ceremony was based on the ceremonial dress worn by the Han and Ming dynasty emperors on sacrificial ceremonies.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-29" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, Yuan Shikai did not adhere to the Han dynasty and Ming dynasty fashion completely and these gowns showed differences in design, i.e. the use of roundels.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A manual, called the <i>Jisi guanfutu</i> (祭祀冠服圖; <i>The Illustrated Manual of Dress for Ritual Sacrifices</i>), was specially prepared and produced in 1914 AD by the <i>Zhengshitang lizhiguan</i> (政事堂禮制館; <i>Bureau of Rites of the Executive Affairs department</i>); this manual provided a detailed description of the attire worn by Yuan Shikai and the participants of the ceremony on this 1914 public, ceremonial event.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Yuan Shikai's ceremonial gown was <i>jiaoling youren</i> (i.e. fastened over the right side), made of black satin which was bordered with gold brocade and was decorated with twelve roundels which depicted the full twelve Imperial symbols (<i>shier zhang</i>; 十二章).<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-30" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Officials gowns were also designed for officials who had to participate in the ceremony; the officials gown were made of black satin and the edges were made with blue brocade.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-31" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Laws regarding the official dress were also decreed: (1) First-rank officials had to wear nine roundels with nine symbols on their gowns; (2) second-rank officials had to wear seven roundels with seven symbols; (3) Third-rank officials had to wear five roundels with five symbols; (4) fourth-rank officials had to wear three roundels with three symbols; and (5) fifth-rank officials and below had to wear a robe without any borders and without any roundels.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-32" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Those imperial emblems which were used in the roundels originated from the twelve emblems which were documented in the <a href="/wiki/Book_of_Documents" title="Book of Documents">Shangshu</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> This ceremonial gown was worn over a purple satin apron skirt which would be edged with either blue or gold brocade; a belt of matching colour was also worn around the waist.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-33" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> They also wore flat hats, and some of them had string of pearls which hung over their faces just like the hats which were worn by the Han Chinese emperors of the earlier dynasties.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Yuan Shikai's deliberate way of dressing up to pay respect to Heaven was not only made in accordance to the old imperial traditions, but it can also be considered as a public declaration to the Chinese people and to the world that the old Chinese customs were still relevant in modern society.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> When Yuan Shikai died in 1916, he was buried in imperial gown which was decorated with nine golden dragons.<sup id="cite_ref-:75_228-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:75-228"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>216<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, since his reign was short-lived, the attempts at restoring ancient Chinese ceremonial and official gowns failed and gradually disappeared.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-35" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p><ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Picture_of_Emperor_Yuan_Shih-kai.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Picture of Emperor Yuan Shikai."><img alt="Picture of Emperor Yuan Shikai." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a0/Picture_of_Emperor_Yuan_Shih-kai.jpg/120px-Picture_of_Emperor_Yuan_Shih-kai.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a0/Picture_of_Emperor_Yuan_Shih-kai.jpg/250px-Picture_of_Emperor_Yuan_Shih-kai.jpg 2x" data-file-width="477" data-file-height="716" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Picture of Emperor Yuan Shikai.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Ceremonial garnments of Yuan Shikai."><img alt="Ceremonial garnments of Yuan Shikai." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a8/047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg/120px-047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a8/047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg/180px-047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a8/047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg/240px-047_Yuan_Shikai%27s_Flag_Used_to_Proclaim_Himself_Emperor_and_Garments_Used_to_Worship_Heaven.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4752" data-file-height="3168" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Ceremonial garnments of Yuan Shikai.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Official_at_Yuan_Shikai%27s_1913_visit_to_the_Temple_of_Heaven.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Third-rank Official at Yuan Shikai's visit to the sacrificial ceremony at the Temple of Heaven; he is wearing a robe with five roundels."><img alt="Third-rank Official at Yuan Shikai's visit to the sacrificial ceremony at the Temple of Heaven; he is wearing a robe with five roundels." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/Official_at_Yuan_Shikai%27s_1913_visit_to_the_Temple_of_Heaven.jpg/120px-Official_at_Yuan_Shikai%27s_1913_visit_to_the_Temple_of_Heaven.jpg" decoding="async" width="64" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/Official_at_Yuan_Shikai%27s_1913_visit_to_the_Temple_of_Heaven.jpg/250px-Official_at_Yuan_Shikai%27s_1913_visit_to_the_Temple_of_Heaven.jpg 2x" data-file-width="553" data-file-height="1037" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Third-rank Official at Yuan Shikai's visit to the sacrificial ceremony at the Temple of Heaven; he is wearing a robe with five roundels.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E5%AE%98%E5%93%A1%E7%A5%AD%E6%9C%8D%E7%85%A71.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Official wearing sacrificial clothing."><img alt="Official wearing sacrificial clothing." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E5%AE%98%E5%93%A1%E7%A5%AD%E6%9C%8D%E7%85%A71.jpg/120px-%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E5%AE%98%E5%93%A1%E7%A5%AD%E6%9C%8D%E7%85%A71.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E5%AE%98%E5%93%A1%E7%A5%AD%E6%9C%8D%E7%85%A71.jpg/250px-%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E5%AE%98%E5%93%A1%E7%A5%AD%E6%9C%8D%E7%85%A71.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="408" data-file-height="544" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Official wearing sacrificial clothing.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Rochanfu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Part of the participants of the 17th Confucius Conference wear Hanfu, 1910s."><img alt="Part of the participants of the 17th Confucius Conference wear Hanfu, 1910s." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/Rochanfu.jpg/120px-Rochanfu.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="76" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/Rochanfu.jpg/180px-Rochanfu.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/Rochanfu.jpg/240px-Rochanfu.jpg 2x" data-file-width="897" data-file-height="570" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Part of the participants of the 17th Confucius Conference wear Hanfu, 1910s.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chinese_Upper_Class_Man_Sitting_at_a_Table_Playing_the_Qin.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Upper Class Man Sitting at a Table Playing the Qin, 1906-1912."><img alt="Upper Class Man Sitting at a Table Playing the Qin, 1906-1912." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Chinese_Upper_Class_Man_Sitting_at_a_Table_Playing_the_Qin.jpg/120px-Chinese_Upper_Class_Man_Sitting_at_a_Table_Playing_the_Qin.jpg" decoding="async" width="103" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Chinese_Upper_Class_Man_Sitting_at_a_Table_Playing_the_Qin.jpg/250px-Chinese_Upper_Class_Man_Sitting_at_a_Table_Playing_the_Qin.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1698" data-file-height="1984" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Upper Class Man Sitting at a Table Playing the Qin, 1906-1912.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Sjhhanfu2.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Sai Jinhua wearing a jiaoling youren clothing, 1920s."><img alt="Sai Jinhua wearing a jiaoling youren clothing, 1920s." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Sjhhanfu2.jpg/120px-Sjhhanfu2.jpg" decoding="async" width="100" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Sjhhanfu2.jpg/250px-Sjhhanfu2.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="375" data-file-height="450" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Sai_Jinhua" title="Sai Jinhua">Sai Jinhua</a> wearing a <i>jiaoling youren</i> clothing, 1920s.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%B0%E6%9C%8D%E5%88%B6_%E7%94%B3%E5%A0%B1_1912.06.22_-_14128.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Newspaper announcement for new national official attire, including clothing based on shenyi and xuanduan, from Shenbao (申報) 1912.06.22"><img alt="Newspaper announcement for new national official attire, including clothing based on shenyi and xuanduan, from Shenbao (申報) 1912.06.22" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%B0%E6%9C%8D%E5%88%B6_%E7%94%B3%E5%A0%B1_1912.06.22_-_14128.png/120px-%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%B0%E6%9C%8D%E5%88%B6_%E7%94%B3%E5%A0%B1_1912.06.22_-_14128.png" decoding="async" width="120" height="85" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%B0%E6%9C%8D%E5%88%B6_%E7%94%B3%E5%A0%B1_1912.06.22_-_14128.png/250px-%E6%B0%91%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%B0%E6%9C%8D%E5%88%B6_%E7%94%B3%E5%A0%B1_1912.06.22_-_14128.png 1.5x" data-file-width="2876" data-file-height="2034" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Newspaper announcement for new national official attire, including clothing based on <i><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Xuanduan" title="Xuanduan">xuanduan</a></i>, from <a href="/wiki/Shenbao" class="mw-redirect" title="Shenbao">Shenbao</a> (申報) 1912.06.22</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Eminence Taixu, a buddhist monk, wearing a youren gown in the streets of London, 1929."><img alt="Eminence Taixu, a buddhist monk, wearing a youren gown in the streets of London, 1929." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/76/Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg/83px-Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg" decoding="async" width="83" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/76/Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg/124px-Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/76/Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg/165px-Tai_hsu_Hanfu.jpg 2x" data-file-width="340" data-file-height="493" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Eminence <a href="/wiki/Taixu" title="Taixu">Taixu</a>, a buddhist monk, wearing a <i>youren</i> gown in the streets of London, 1929.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Graduate of the Fu Jen Catholic University, 1947"><img alt="Graduate of the Fu Jen Catholic University, 1947" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/46/FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg/120px-FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="63" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/46/FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg/180px-FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/46/FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg/240px-FJU_Graduate_1947.jpg 2x" data-file-width="800" data-file-height="417" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Graduate of the <a href="/wiki/Fu_Jen_Catholic_University" title="Fu Jen Catholic University">Fu Jen Catholic University</a>, 1947</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Graduate of Yenching University, 1930."><img alt="Graduate of Yenching University, 1930." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5b/YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg/60px-YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg" decoding="async" width="60" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5b/YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg/90px-YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5b/YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg/120px-YCU_Graduate_1947.jpg 2x" data-file-width="307" data-file-height="615" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Graduate of <a href="/wiki/Yenching_University" title="Yenching University">Yenching University</a>, 1930.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Dr. Chen Huanzhang (1880-1933), founder of the Confucian Academy, wearing shenyi."><img alt="Dr. Chen Huanzhang (1880-1933), founder of the Confucian Academy, wearing shenyi." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg/96px-Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg" decoding="async" width="96" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg/144px-Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg/191px-Chen_Huanzhang_Hanfu.jpg 2x" data-file-width="431" data-file-height="540" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Dr. Chen Huanzhang (1880-1933), founder of the <a href="/wiki/Confucian_Academy" title="Confucian Academy">Confucian Academy</a>, wearing shenyi.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Hanfu worn during a ceremony at Jinzhou Confucian Temple."><img alt="Hanfu worn during a ceremony at Jinzhou Confucian Temple." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg/120px-%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="86" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg/180px-%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg/240px-%E4%BA%9C%E7%B4%B0%E4%BA%9C%E5%A4%A7%E8%A6%B3_12_085_%22%E6%AD%A6%E5%8A%9F%E4%B9%8B%E8%88%9E%22.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2211" data-file-height="1587" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Hanfu worn during a ceremony at <a href="/wiki/Jinzhou" title="Jinzhou">Jinzhou</a> <a href="/wiki/Confucian_Temple" class="mw-redirect" title="Confucian Temple">Confucian Temple</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:YSK_jitian3.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="People wearing hanfu and mian at the official ceremony held at Beijing at December 23rd, 1914."><img alt="People wearing hanfu and mian at the official ceremony held at Beijing at December 23rd, 1914." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/YSK_jitian3.jpg/120px-YSK_jitian3.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="70" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/YSK_jitian3.jpg/180px-YSK_jitian3.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/YSK_jitian3.jpg/240px-YSK_jitian3.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">People wearing <i>hanfu</i> and <i>mian</i> at the official ceremony held at Beijing at December 23rd, 1914.</div> </li> </ul> <p>In 1919, women aoqun evolved; the ao became slimmer and longer until it reached below the narrow; the sleeves became narrower to the wrists, and the side slits were shortened; the collars became very high with some corners turning down sometimes and other collars reaching up to the ears.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-36" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The edges of the ao became narrow contrasting to the wide bands of embroidery which was popular in the past.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The ao was worn with a one-piece ankle length skirt.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-38" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In the early 1920s, the ao became more fitted and was shortened reaching only the top of the hip with a rounded hem, the sleeves were also shortened to three quarter of its length. The skirt became plainer, cut with a simple flared style, and wide waistband was replaced by narrow band in which a cord or elastic was threaded.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The qipao, also known as <a href="/wiki/Cheongsam" title="Cheongsam">cheongsam</a>, was eventually created in the middle of 1920s.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 1927, <a href="/wiki/Changshan" title="Changshan">changshan</a> and <a href="/wiki/Magua_(clothing)" title="Magua (clothing)">magua</a> was established as the formal, official wear for men, and they were worn for important ceremonies, such as weddings, temple and ancestral halls worship.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-41" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Women's formal wear was either a black ao and blue skirt with the same style as the earlier outfit or the cheongsam.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-42" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In the mid-1930s as men started to adopt more Western clothing. Under the <a href="/wiki/Second_Sino-Japanese_War" title="Second Sino-Japanese War">Japanese occupation</a>, more men started to wear even more Western suits and ties, and the men traditional clothing was worn on informal occasions.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-43" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 1932, the <a href="/wiki/Nationalist_government" title="Nationalist government">Nationalist government</a> began to force <a href="/wiki/Miao_people" title="Miao people">Miao</a>, <a href="/wiki/Yao_people" title="Yao people">Yao</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Kam_people" title="Kam people">Kam people</a> to wear hanfu.<sup id="cite_ref-229" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-229"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>217<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>During the <a href="/wiki/Cultural_Revolution" title="Cultural Revolution">Cultural Revolution</a>, traditional Chinese clothing, as a broad term, was considered as being part of one of the "four olds" and the <a href="/wiki/Mao_suit" title="Mao suit">Mao suit</a> was popularized for both genders.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-44" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Skirts also disappeared as they were considered being both impractical for manual work and ideologically inappropriate during this time period.<sup id="cite_ref-:104_177-45" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:104-177"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>165<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 1974, <a href="/wiki/Jiang_Qing" title="Jiang Qing">Jiang Qing</a>, the fourth wife of <a href="/wiki/Mao_Zedong" title="Mao Zedong">Mao Zedong</a>, wanted to make an attire, known as the <i><a href="/w/index.php?title=Jiang_Qing_dress&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Jiang Qing dress (page does not exist)">Jiang Qing dress</a>,</i> as the national dress for the Chinese women.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 248–255">: 248–255 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:88_230-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:88-230"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>218<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The <i>Jiang Qing dress</i>, which she personally designed, consisted of pleated skirts instead of trousers, the sleeves were nearly elbow-length, there was a central opening, and the neckline was V-shaped and was delineated by a wide, white band; the skirt was based on the pleated skirts (i.e. the "one hundred pleats" skirt) worn by the court ladies worn in Tang dynasty paintings.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 248–255">: 248–255 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:88_230-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:88-230"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>218<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The earliest form of <i>Jiang Qing dress</i> is documented and appear in the <a href="/wiki/1974_Asian_Games" title="1974 Asian Games">1974 Asian Games</a> photos.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 248–255">: 248–255 </span></sup> Jiang Qing tried to popularize the dress in diverse ways through public and foreign avenues; however, her dress failed to win popularity and was disliked.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 248–255">: 248–255 </span></sup> Since the late 1970s, skirts and dresses reappeared and western-style clothing became popular in daily lives.<sup id="cite_ref-:33_28-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:33-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Pages: 257–265">: 257–265 </span></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Hanfu_in_popular_media_and_opera_(20th_century_–_present)"><span id="Hanfu_in_popular_media_and_opera_.2820th_century_.E2.80.93_present.29"></span>Hanfu in popular media and opera (20th century – present)</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=33" title="Edit section: Hanfu in popular media and opera (20th century – present)"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main articles: <a href="/wiki/Guzhuang_(costume)" title="Guzhuang (costume)">Guzhuang (costume)</a> and <a href="/wiki/Xifu_(Costume)" class="mw-redirect" title="Xifu (Costume)">Xifu (Costume)</a></div> <p>Since the 20th century, hanfu and hanfu-style clothing has been used frequently as ancient costumes in Chinese and foreign television series, films and other forms of entertainment media, and was widely popularized since the late 1980s dramas.<sup id="cite_ref-:13_23-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:13-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-231" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-231"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>219<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:80_24-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:80-24"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-:124_232-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:124-232"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>220<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> One example of historically inaccurate hanfu-style costume is the costume worn by <a href="/wiki/Mulan_(Disney_character)" title="Mulan (Disney character)">Disney's Mulan</a>, where the wide sleeves of the hanfu were reduced to narrow sleeves reflecting modern fashion and to reflect the character of Disney's Mulan.<sup id="cite_ref-:124_232-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:124-232"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>220<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Romance_of_the_Western_Chamber_poster.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A movie poster of Romance of the Western Chamber, a 1927 silent movie."><img alt="A movie poster of Romance of the Western Chamber, a 1927 silent movie." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Romance_of_the_Western_Chamber_poster.jpg/120px-Romance_of_the_Western_Chamber_poster.jpg" decoding="async" width="88" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Romance_of_the_Western_Chamber_poster.jpg/250px-Romance_of_the_Western_Chamber_poster.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="605" data-file-height="827" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A movie poster of <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0ZeTiQHUzs">Romance of the Western Chamber</a>, a 1927 <a href="/wiki/Silent_film" title="Silent film">silent movie</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_aka_Pan_Si_Dong_(1927)_02.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A scene from the silent film, The Cave of the Silken Web (1927). Various forms of hanfu-style costumes are depicted in the movie."><img alt="A scene from the silent film, The Cave of the Silken Web (1927). Various forms of hanfu-style costumes are depicted in the movie." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a4/The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_aka_Pan_Si_Dong_%281927%29_02.jpg/120px-The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_aka_Pan_Si_Dong_%281927%29_02.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="99" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a4/The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_aka_Pan_Si_Dong_%281927%29_02.jpg/250px-The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_aka_Pan_Si_Dong_%281927%29_02.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="824" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A scene from the <a href="/wiki/Silent_film" title="Silent film">silent film</a>, <a href="/wiki/The_Cave_of_the_Silken_Web_(1927_film)" title="The Cave of the Silken Web (1927 film)">The Cave of the Silken Web</a> (1927). Various forms of hanfu-style costumes are depicted in the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQMGXw7-rvM">movie</a>.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Liang_Shanbo_and_Zhu_Yingtai_(1954).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="1954 film adaptation of the legend of the Butterfly Lovers."><img alt="1954 film adaptation of the legend of the Butterfly Lovers." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/Liang_Shanbo_and_Zhu_Yingtai_%281954%29.jpg/120px-Liang_Shanbo_and_Zhu_Yingtai_%281954%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="91" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/79/Liang_Shanbo_and_Zhu_Yingtai_%281954%29.jpg/250px-Liang_Shanbo_and_Zhu_Yingtai_%281954%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="456" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">1954 film adaptation of the legend of the <a href="/wiki/Butterfly_Lovers" title="Butterfly Lovers">Butterfly Lovers</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <p>Many elements and costumes styles worn in <a href="/wiki/Chinese_opera" title="Chinese opera">Chinese opera</a> are derived from the Ming dynasty clothing and may be blended with the clothing style from the Tang to Qing dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-233" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-233"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>221<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The opera costumes worn in <a href="/wiki/Kunqu" title="Kunqu">Kunqu</a> opera is primarily based on the clothing worn in Ming dynasty.<sup id="cite_ref-234" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-234"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>222<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> And, most of the style of costumes depicted in <a href="/wiki/Cantonese_opera" title="Cantonese opera">Cantonese opera</a> are also derived from the clothing of the Ming dynasty, with a few exception being derived from the Qing dynasty clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-235" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-235"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>223<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-236" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-236"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>224<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Costumes of Cantonese opera uses the Ming-style clothing for opera which are set in all dynasties, except for the ones set in the Qing dynasty; those costumes follow the Qing-style.<sup id="cite_ref-237" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-237"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>225<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-238" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-238"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>226<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Pekinguniversitykunqu5.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Hanfu in a Kunqu performance."><img alt="Hanfu in a Kunqu performance." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Pekinguniversitykunqu5.jpg/120px-Pekinguniversitykunqu5.jpg" decoding="async" width="88" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Pekinguniversitykunqu5.jpg/250px-Pekinguniversitykunqu5.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="565" data-file-height="768" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><i>Hanfu</i> in a <a href="/wiki/Kunqu" title="Kunqu">Kunqu</a> performance.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Cantonese_Opera_Happy_Valley_(2482628173).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Cantonese Opera Happy Valley (2008)."><img alt="Cantonese Opera Happy Valley (2008)." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Cantonese_Opera_Happy_Valley_%282482628173%29.jpg/120px-Cantonese_Opera_Happy_Valley_%282482628173%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Cantonese_Opera_Happy_Valley_%282482628173%29.jpg/250px-Cantonese_Opera_Happy_Valley_%282482628173%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="3872" data-file-height="2592" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Cantonese Opera Happy Valley (2008).</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:DSC_0880_(4888403910).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Kunqu opera of the Ming-dynasty play The Peony Pavilion."><img alt="Kunqu opera of the Ming-dynasty play The Peony Pavilion." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/DSC_0880_%284888403910%29.jpg/120px-DSC_0880_%284888403910%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="80" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/DSC_0880_%284888403910%29.jpg/250px-DSC_0880_%284888403910%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="685" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext"><a href="/wiki/Kunqu" title="Kunqu">Kunqu opera</a> of the Ming-dynasty play <a href="/wiki/The_Peony_Pavilion" title="The Peony Pavilion">The Peony Pavilion</a>.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Hanfu_in_modern_Taoism_(20th_century_–_present)"><span id="Hanfu_in_modern_Taoism_.2820th_century_.E2.80.93_present.29"></span>Hanfu in modern Taoism (20th century – present)</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=34" title="Edit section: Hanfu in modern Taoism (20th century – present)"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Daojiao_fushi" title="Daojiao fushi">Daojiao fushi</a></div> <p>Modern <a href="/wiki/Daoshi" title="Daoshi">Taoist monks</a> and Taoism practitioners continue to style their long hair into a <a href="#Style">touji</a> (頭髻; a topknot hairstyle) and wear traditional clothing.<sup id="cite_ref-239" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-239"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>227<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-240" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-240"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>228<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-241" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-241"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>229<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-242" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-242"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>230<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Some modern taoist abbess and priests also wear cross-collared <i><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Jiaoling_youren" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">jiaoling youren</a></i> robes and hats.<sup id="cite_ref-243" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-243"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>231<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-244" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-244"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>232<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E4%B8%87%E5%AF%BF%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Taoist clergy of Baxian Temple [zh], Xi'an, wearing daopao and hechang, 1910-1911."><img alt="Taoist clergy of Baxian Temple [zh], Xi'an, wearing daopao and hechang, 1910-1911." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9e/%E4%B8%87%E5%AF%BF%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB.jpg/120px-%E4%B8%87%E5%AF%BF%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="75" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9e/%E4%B8%87%E5%AF%BF%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB.jpg/250px-%E4%B8%87%E5%AF%BF%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2322" data-file-height="1453" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Taoist clergy of <a href="/w/index.php?title=Baxian_Temple&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Baxian Temple (page does not exist)">Baxian Temple</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%85%AB%E4%BB%99%E5%AE%AB" class="extiw" title="zh:八仙宫">zh</a>]</span>, <a href="/wiki/Xi%27an" title="Xi'an">Xi'an</a>, wearing <i><a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">daopao</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Hechang" class="mw-redirect" title="Hechang">hechang</a></i>, 1910-1911.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png" class="mw-file-description" title="Taoist priest at a monastery, 1923."><img alt="Taoist priest at a monastery, 1923." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/92/Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png/70px-Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png" decoding="async" width="70" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/92/Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png/106px-Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/92/Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png/141px-Priest_at_Monastery_in_Soochow.png 2x" data-file-width="573" data-file-height="975" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Taoist priest at a monastery, 1923.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Soothsayer-outside-of-Changchun-Temple-0352.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Taoist soothsayer advising a woman; he has a topknot hairstyle, a surviving male hairstyle of Han people. Photo taken in 2008 outside the Changchun Temple (長春觀) in Wuhan, China."><img alt="A Taoist soothsayer advising a woman; he has a topknot hairstyle, a surviving male hairstyle of Han people. Photo taken in 2008 outside the Changchun Temple (長春觀) in Wuhan, China." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Soothsayer-outside-of-Changchun-Temple-0352.jpg/120px-Soothsayer-outside-of-Changchun-Temple-0352.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d2/Soothsayer-outside-of-Changchun-Temple-0352.jpg/250px-Soothsayer-outside-of-Changchun-Temple-0352.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2048" data-file-height="1536" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A <a href="/wiki/Taoist" class="mw-redirect" title="Taoist">Taoist</a> soothsayer advising a woman; he has a <a href="#Style">topknot</a> hairstyle, a surviving male hairstyle of <a href="/wiki/Han_Chinese" title="Han Chinese">Han</a> people. Photo taken in 2008 outside the Changchun Temple (長春觀) in <a href="/wiki/Wuhan" title="Wuhan">Wuhan</a>, China.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Taoist_monk.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Taoist monk; he has a topknot hairstyle and wears a tangzhuang-style upper garment. The upper garment is not considered as being hanfu; Beijing, date unknown."><img alt="A Taoist monk; he has a topknot hairstyle and wears a tangzhuang-style upper garment. The upper garment is not considered as being hanfu; Beijing, date unknown." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0d/Taoist_monk.jpg/120px-Taoist_monk.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0d/Taoist_monk.jpg/250px-Taoist_monk.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2592" data-file-height="3872" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Taoist monk; he has a topknot hairstyle and wears a <a href="/wiki/Tangzhuang" title="Tangzhuang">tangzhuang</a>-style upper garment. The upper garment is not considered as being hanfu; <a href="/wiki/Beijing" title="Beijing">Beijing</a>, date unknown.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6_-_Taoist_(8003104242).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A Taoist man with a topknot and cross-collared robe."><img alt="A Taoist man with a topknot and cross-collared robe." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6_-_Taoist_%288003104242%29.jpg/120px-%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6_-_Taoist_%288003104242%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="80" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6_-_Taoist_%288003104242%29.jpg/250px-%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6_-_Taoist_%288003104242%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2089" data-file-height="3133" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A Taoist man with a topknot and cross-collared robe.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Taoist_ceremony_at_Xiao_ancestral_temple_in_Chaoyang,_Shantou,_Guangdong_(daoshi)_(1).jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Taoist ceremony at Xiao ancestral temple in Chaoyang, Shantou, Guangdong (daoshi), April 2010."><img alt="Taoist ceremony at Xiao ancestral temple in Chaoyang, Shantou, Guangdong (daoshi), April 2010." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/Taoist_ceremony_at_Xiao_ancestral_temple_in_Chaoyang%2C_Shantou%2C_Guangdong_%28daoshi%29_%281%29.jpg/120px-Taoist_ceremony_at_Xiao_ancestral_temple_in_Chaoyang%2C_Shantou%2C_Guangdong_%28daoshi%29_%281%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/Taoist_ceremony_at_Xiao_ancestral_temple_in_Chaoyang%2C_Shantou%2C_Guangdong_%28daoshi%29_%281%29.jpg/250px-Taoist_ceremony_at_Xiao_ancestral_temple_in_Chaoyang%2C_Shantou%2C_Guangdong_%28daoshi%29_%281%29.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="768" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Taoist ceremony at Xiao ancestral temple in Chaoyang, Shantou, Guangdong (daoshi), April 2010.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="21st_century">21st century</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=35" title="Edit section: 21st century"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Hanfu_Movement">Hanfu Movement</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=36" title="Edit section: Hanfu Movement"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_Movement" title="Hanfu Movement">Hanfu Movement</a></div> <p>The Hanfu Movement is an ongoing social movement which aims at popularizing hanfu and integrating traditional Chinese elements into the design of modern clothing, as a way to promote traditional Chinese culture. </p><p>On 22 November 2003, a man named Wang Letian wore a DIY <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a> in public; his hanfu story was published in <a href="/wiki/Lianhe_Zaobao" title="Lianhe Zaobao">Lianhe Zaobao newspaper</a> and attracted the public attention. This is commonly perceived as the beginning of the modern Hanfu Movement.<sup id="cite_ref-:68_153-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:68-153"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>142<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-245" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-245"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>233<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Growing_popularity_and_market_trend">Growing popularity and market trend</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=37" title="Edit section: Growing popularity and market trend"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg/250px-Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="146" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg/330px-Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg/500px-Han_Chinese_wearing_Hanfu_in_streets.jpg 2x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="397" /></a><figcaption>Han Chinese wearing hanfu in streets</figcaption></figure> <p>Entering the 21st century, hanfu has become a fashion trend and lucrative business sector. In 2018, it was estimated that the hanfu market consisted of 2 million potential consumers.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The estimated revenue sales for 2019 was 1.4 billion yuan (US$199.3 million).<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> According to the iiMedia 2018 survey, women make up 88.2% of the hanfu enthusiasts and 75.8% of the hanfu stores on <a href="/wiki/Taobao" title="Taobao">Taobao</a> and <a href="/wiki/Tmall" title="Tmall">Tmall platforms</a> only sell hanfu for women.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 2019, it was estimated that there were 1,188 online hanfu stores on Tmall and Taobao which shows an increase of 45.77% over the previous year.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The hanfu stores <i>Chong Hui Han Tang</i> ranked third on Tmall in 2019 after the hanfu store <i>Hanshang Hualian</i> and <i>Shisanyu</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the 2019 edition of the <i>Xitang Hanfu Culture Week</i>, it was estimated that it attracted 40,000 Hanfu enthusiast participants.<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>A study done by <i>Forward Industry Research Institute</i> (a Chinese research institute) shows that by 2020, the number of hanfu enthusiasts in China has reached 5.163 million, creating a market size equivalent to 6.36 billion yuan (US$980 million), a proportional increase of over 40% compared to the previous year. Meanwhile, it is projected that by the end of 2021, the total number of hanfu enthusiasts across China will exceed 7 million, and that the market size of hanfu will exceed 9 billion yuan (US$1.39 billion).<sup id="cite_ref-246" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-246"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>234<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Modern_hanfu">Modern hanfu</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=38" title="Edit section: Modern hanfu"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The 21st century hanfu is still referred as hanfu within the Hanfu cultural community for ease of expression.<sup id="cite_ref-:76_18-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:76-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> On March 8, 2021, the <a href="/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)" title="Vogue (magazine)">magazine Vogue</a> published an article on <i>modern hanfu</i> defining it as a "type of dress from any era when Han Chinese ruled" and reported that the styles based on the Tang, Song, Ming periods were the most popular.<sup id="cite_ref-247" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-247"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>235<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>According to some contemporary scholars, modern day hanfu can be classified into three categories: </p> <ol><li>Reproductions that are made strictly following the styles depicted on ancient paintings, murals, and/or archaeological finds.</li> <li>"Contemporary Hanfu" (also known as <i>modern hanfu</i>, <i>new hanfu</i>, <i>restored hanfu<sup id="cite_ref-:76_18-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:76-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></i> and <i>improved hanfu</i><sup id="cite_ref-:20_248-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:20-248"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>236<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>) which refers to those that are developed based on historical styles of hanfu, and largely retain the ancient styles (can still be classified into existing categories of historical hanfu, such as <i>ruqun</i>, <i>beizi</i> etc.), but with modern aesthetics and technologies introduced into their designs.<sup id="cite_ref-:20_248-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:20-248"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>236<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></li> <li><i>"Hanyuansu"</i> (漢元素), or "Clothes with Hanfu Elements", refers to modern/everyday clothing with <i>hanfu style</i> features and/or elements in their design, but cannot be classified into existing categories of ancient hanfu<i>.</i><sup id="cite_ref-249" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-249"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>237<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></li></ol> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Characteristics_and_design">Characteristics and design</h4><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=39" title="Edit section: Characteristics and design"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Most <i>modern hanfu</i> are based on sculptures, paintings, art objects, historical records, and historical clothing.<a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a> Han Chinese robes given by the Ming Emperors to the Chinese noble <a href="/wiki/Duke_Yansheng" title="Duke Yansheng">Dukes Yansheng</a> descended from <a href="/wiki/Confucius" title="Confucius">Confucius</a> are still preserved in the <a href="/wiki/Confucius_Mansion" class="mw-redirect" title="Confucius Mansion">Confucius Mansion</a> after over five centuries. Robes from the Qing emperors are also preserved there.<sup id="cite_ref-250" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-250"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>238<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-251" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-251"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>239<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-252" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-252"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>240<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-253" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-253"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>241<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Jurchens in the <a href="/wiki/Jin_dynasty_(1115%E2%80%931234)" title="Jin dynasty (1115–1234)">Jin dynasty</a> and Mongols in the <a href="/wiki/Yuan_dynasty" title="Yuan dynasty">Yuan dynasty</a> continued to patronize and support the Confucian Duke Yansheng.<sup id="cite_ref-254" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-254"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>242<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Around the year 2007 or 2008, a group of young people from Minghang district, <a href="/wiki/Shanghai" title="Shanghai">Shanghai</a>, started a project to restore Chinese clothing from ancient dynasties based on rigorous research, spending their days reading ancient documents and looking at paintings to find detailed information about the styles, materials, colours and patterns used in ancient times; this group is called the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.zhuangshufuyuan.com/"><i>Ancient Chinese Clothing Restoration Team</i></a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20210415114631/https://www.zhuangshufuyuan.com/">Archived</a> 15 April 2021 at the <a href="/wiki/Wayback_Machine" title="Wayback Machine">Wayback Machine</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-255" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-255"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>243<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>It is also worth noting that an important feature of the modern hanfu (regardless of the three categories it belongs to) is its <a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Jiaoling_youren" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">jiaoling youren</a> characteristic. In fact, this design bear special cultural moral and ethical values. It is said the left collar covering the right represents the perfection of human culture on human nature and the overcoming of bodily forces by the spiritual power of ethical ritual teaching; the expansive cutting and board sleeve represents a moral, concordant relation between nature and human creative power; the use of the girdle to fasten the garment over the body represents the constraints of Han culture to limit human's desire that would incur amoral deed.<sup id="cite_ref-256" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-256"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>244<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> As a result, jiaoling youren has become an inseparable part of modern hanfu design. </p><p>The <i>modern hanfu</i> also changes to a style that can be worn daily, and these styles combined with western clothing or even clothing from other cultures.<sup id="cite_ref-257" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-257"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>245<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> For example, the recent emergence of Christmas-theme <i>hanfu</i> trend (which occurred especially for Christmas season) on social media and online shops combines <i>hanfu</i> with Christmas elements and Christmas colour hues.<sup id="cite_ref-258" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-258"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>246<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-{{Cite_news}}..._259-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-{{Cite_news}}...-259"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>247<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Another trend is the incorporation of (western-style) lace elements to the hanfu; however, those designs are not considered as <i>authentic hanfu</i> but are considered being clothing with Han elements (or <i>hanyuansu</i>).<sup id="cite_ref-auto789_1-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-traditional"> <li class="gallerycaption">Modern hanfu</li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%85%A9%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D%E4%BA%BAhanfu.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="A woman wearing qujupao and a man wearing a zhiqupao, Chinese Cultural Festival in Guangzhou, 2008."><img alt="A woman wearing qujupao and a man wearing a zhiqupao, Chinese Cultural Festival in Guangzhou, 2008." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/%E5%85%A9%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D%E4%BA%BAhanfu.jpg/120px-%E5%85%A9%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D%E4%BA%BAhanfu.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/%E5%85%A9%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D%E4%BA%BAhanfu.jpg/250px-%E5%85%A9%E6%BC%A2%E6%9C%8D%E4%BA%BAhanfu.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="450" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">A woman wearing <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">qujupao</a> and a man wearing a <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">zhiqupao</a>, Chinese Cultural Festival in Guangzhou, 2008.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Hanfu_1.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men wearing shenyi, panling lanshan, and zhiduo, date unknown."><img alt="Men wearing shenyi, panling lanshan, and zhiduo, date unknown." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Hanfu_1.jpg/120px-Hanfu_1.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="90" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Hanfu_1.jpg/250px-Hanfu_1.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="650" data-file-height="488" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men wearing <a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">shenyi</a>, <a href="/wiki/Panling_Lanshan" title="Panling Lanshan">panling lanshan</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)">zhiduo</a>, date unknown.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Xuanduan.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Men and women in xuanduan, possibly during a Guan Li ceremony, 2007."><img alt="Men and women in xuanduan, possibly during a Guan Li ceremony, 2007." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Xuanduan.jpg/120px-Xuanduan.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="85" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Xuanduan.jpg/180px-Xuanduan.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Xuanduan.jpg/240px-Xuanduan.jpg 2x" data-file-width="523" data-file-height="371" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Men and women in <i><a href="/wiki/Xuanduan" title="Xuanduan">xuanduan</a>,</i> possibly during a <a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Guan Li ceremony</a>, 2007.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:HANFU_in_Clothing_store_2018.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Two ruqun in a clothing store; on the left is a hanfu with a red ru and a white skirt; on the right, the hanfu is composed of a green ru and a green skirt; 2018."><img alt="Two ruqun in a clothing store; on the left is a hanfu with a red ru and a white skirt; on the right, the hanfu is composed of a green ru and a green skirt; 2018." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/HANFU_in_Clothing_store_2018.jpg/120px-HANFU_in_Clothing_store_2018.jpg" decoding="async" width="90" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/HANFU_in_Clothing_store_2018.jpg/250px-HANFU_in_Clothing_store_2018.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2448" data-file-height="3264" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Two ruqun in a clothing store; on the left is a hanfu with a red ru and a white skirt; on the right, the hanfu is composed of a green ru and a green skirt; 2018.</div> </li> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 155px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 150px; height: 150px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%9B%B2%E9%98%9C%E5%B8%AB%E7%AF%84%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%A6%E3%81%AE%E6%B4%99%E6%B3%97%E9%83%A8%E3%81%AE%E5%86%99%E7%9C%9F.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="Some students wearing diverse forms of Hanfu during a spring outing."><img alt="Some students wearing diverse forms of Hanfu during a spring outing." src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/76/%E6%9B%B2%E9%98%9C%E5%B8%AB%E7%AF%84%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%A6%E3%81%AE%E6%B4%99%E6%B3%97%E9%83%A8%E3%81%AE%E5%86%99%E7%9C%9F.jpg/120px-%E6%9B%B2%E9%98%9C%E5%B8%AB%E7%AF%84%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%A6%E3%81%AE%E6%B4%99%E6%B3%97%E9%83%A8%E3%81%AE%E5%86%99%E7%9C%9F.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="94" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/76/%E6%9B%B2%E9%98%9C%E5%B8%AB%E7%AF%84%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%A6%E3%81%AE%E6%B4%99%E6%B3%97%E9%83%A8%E3%81%AE%E5%86%99%E7%9C%9F.jpg/250px-%E6%9B%B2%E9%98%9C%E5%B8%AB%E7%AF%84%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%A6%E3%81%AE%E6%B4%99%E6%B3%97%E9%83%A8%E3%81%AE%E5%86%99%E7%9C%9F.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="2053" data-file-height="1600" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">Some students wearing diverse forms of Hanfu during a spring outing.</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Garments">Garments</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=40" title="Edit section: Garments"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu">List of Hanfu</a></div> <p>The style of historical Han clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. A complete set of garment is assembled from several pieces of clothing into an attire: </p> <table class="wikitable" style="width:80%;"> <tbody><tr> <th>Component</th> <th>Romanization</th> <th>Hanzi</th> <th>Definition </th></tr> <tr> <td rowspan="2"><b>Upper Garment</b></td> <td>Yi</td> <td>衣</td> <td>Open cross-collar shirt. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Ru</td> <td>襦</td> <td>Open cross-collar shirt, only worn by women. </td></tr> <tr> <td rowspan="3"><b>Lower Garment</b></td> <td>Ku</td> <td>裤</td> <td>Trousers or pants. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Chang</td> <td>裳</td> <td>Skirt for men. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Qun</td> <td>裙</td> <td>Skirt for women. </td></tr> <tr> <td rowspan="2"><b>Full-body Cloth</b></td> <td>Pao</td> <td>袍</td> <td>Closed full-body garment. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Chang ru</td> <td>长襦</td> <td>Long skirt, only worn by women. </td></tr> <tr> <td rowspan="8"><b>Outer Garment</b></td> <td>Ao</td> <td>袄</td> <td>Multi-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Shan</td> <td>衫</td> <td>Single-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Banbi</td> <td>半臂</td> <td>A half-sleeved waistcoat. </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">Bixi</a></td> <td>蔽膝</td> <td>A cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Dou Peng</td> <td>斗篷</td> <td>Cape. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Pifeng</td> <td>披风</td> <td>Cloak. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Pibo</td> <td>披帛</td> <td>A long silk scarf, however not used to cover neck. Sometimes covering shoulders, other times just hanging from elbow. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Zhao shan</td> <td>罩衫</td> <td>Cloaking coat. Usually open at the front. </td></tr> <tr> <td rowspan="3"><b>Inner Garment</b></td> <td>Dudou</td> <td>肚兜</td> <td>Belly Cover. Covers front upper body. Worn by women and children. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Moxiong</td> <td>抹胸</td> <td>Tube top. Worn by women. </td></tr> <tr> <td>Zhongyi</td> <td>中衣</td> <td>Inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk. Also called <i>zhongdan</i> (中单). </td></tr></tbody></table> <p>There is differences between traditional garment of Han ethnic and other ethnic groups in China, most notably the <a href="/wiki/Manchu_people" title="Manchu people">Manchu</a>-influenced clothes, <i><a href="/wiki/Qipao" class="mw-redirect" title="Qipao">qipao</a></i>, which is popularly considered to be the de facto traditional Han Chinese garb. A general comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides:<sup id="cite_ref-Cui_Rongrong_260-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Cui_Rongrong-260"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>248<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <table class="wikitable" style="width:80%;"> <tbody><tr> <th>Component</th> <th>Han</th> <th>Manchu </th></tr> <tr> <td><b>Collars</b> </td> <td>Crossing diagonally. Loose lapels, front opened. </td> <td>Parallel vertical overlapping collars, with paralleled secured lapels, no front openings. </td></tr> <tr> <td><b>Sleeves</b> </td> <td>Long and loose </td> <td>Narrow and tight </td></tr> <tr> <td><b>Buttons</b> </td> <td>Sparingly used and concealed inside the garment </td> <td>Numerous and prominently displayed </td></tr> <tr> <td><b>Fittings</b> </td> <td>Belts and sashes are used to close, secure, and fit the garments around the waist </td> <td>Flat ornate buttoning systems are typically used to secure the collar and fit the garment around the neck and upper torso </td></tr></tbody></table> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Footwear">Footwear</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=41" title="Edit section: Footwear"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_footwear" title="Hanfu footwear">Hanfu footwear</a></div> <p>There were many etiquettes which rule people's daily lives, and this included the use and etiquettes of shoes and socks wearing.<sup id="cite_ref-:115_261-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:115-261"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>249<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The rules of <a href="/wiki/Zhou_dynasty" title="Zhou dynasty">Zhou</a> stipulated that shoes had to be removed before entering a house; shoes and socks had to be removed at banquets, and ministers who had to meet with the emperor had to remove both their shoes and socks.<sup id="cite_ref-:115_261-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:115-261"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>249<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Being <a href="/wiki/Barefoot" title="Barefoot">barefoot</a> was considered a taboo on ceremonial worship occasions.<sup id="cite_ref-:115_261-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:115-261"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>249<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Headwear_and_hairstyles">Headwear and hairstyles</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=42" title="Edit section: Headwear and hairstyles"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/List_of_hanfu_headwear" title="List of hanfu headwear">List of hanfu headwear</a></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1273380762/mw-parser-output/.tmulti" /><div class="thumb tmulti tright"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:308px;max-width:308px"><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:152px;max-width:152px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Crossbowman1.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Crossbowman1.jpg/250px-Crossbowman1.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="200" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Crossbowman1.jpg/330px-Crossbowman1.jpg 2x" data-file-width="450" data-file-height="600" /></a></span></div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:152px;max-width:152px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Archer_head.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/Archer_head.jpg/250px-Archer_head.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="200" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/Archer_head.jpg/330px-Archer_head.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2448" data-file-height="3264" /></a></span></div></div></div><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:152px;max-width:152px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Terrakottaarm%C3%A9n-11.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/Terrakottaarm%C3%A9n-11.jpg/250px-Terrakottaarm%C3%A9n-11.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="222" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d3/Terrakottaarm%C3%A9n-11.jpg/330px-Terrakottaarm%C3%A9n-11.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2386" data-file-height="3527" /></a></span></div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:152px;max-width:152px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Qin_Terracotta_Warrior_08.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Qin_Terracotta_Warrior_08.jpg/250px-Qin_Terracotta_Warrior_08.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="225" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Qin_Terracotta_Warrior_08.jpg/330px-Qin_Terracotta_Warrior_08.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3168" data-file-height="4752" /></a></span></div></div></div><div class="trow" style="display:flex"><div class="thumbcaption">Ways of tying the topknot seen on Qin <a href="/wiki/Terracotta_soldiers" class="mw-redirect" title="Terracotta soldiers">Terracotta soldiers</a>. Hairs were partially tied at the back of the head with braids, sometimes having no topknot at all.</div></div></div></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/db/%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg/250px-%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg" decoding="async" width="220" height="169" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/db/%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg/330px-%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/db/%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg/500px-%E6%BC%A2_%E5%BD%A9%E7%B9%AA%E9%99%B6%E5%85%AD%E5%8D%9A%E4%BF%91-Pair_of_Seated_Figures_Playing_Liubo_MET_1992_165_23ab_B.jpeg 2x" data-file-width="2000" data-file-height="1535" /></a><figcaption>Han dynasty pottery figure showing topknot partially folded into a tail with braid behind the back of the head.</figcaption></figure> <p>On top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called <i>jin</i> (巾) for soft caps, <i>mao</i> (帽) for stiff hats and <i><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">guan</a></i> for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats, typically the <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">putou</a></i>, the <i><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">wushamao</a></i>, the <i>si-fang pingding jin</i> (四方平定巾; or simply, <i>fangjin</i>: 方巾) and the <i>Zhuangzi jin</i> (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for women is the hairpin called <i><a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">ji</a></i> (笄) that appeared since Neolithic time, and there are more elaborate hairpieces. </p><p>In addition, managing hair was also a crucial part of ancient Han people's daily life. Commonly, males and females would stop cutting their hair once they reached adulthood. This was marked by the Chinese coming of age ceremony <a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Guan Li</a>, usually performed between ages 15 to 20. They allowed their hair to grow long naturally until death, including facial hair. This was due to Confucius' teaching "<i>Shenti fa fu, shou zhu fumu, bu gan huishang, xiaozhi shi ye</i> (身體髮膚,受諸父母,不敢毀傷,孝之始也)" – which can be roughly translated as 'My body, hair and skin are bestowed by my father and mother, I dare not damage any of them, as this is the least I can do to honor and respect my parents'. In fact, cutting one's hair off in ancient China was considered a legal punishment called 'Kun (髡)',<sup id="cite_ref-:43_205-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:43-205"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>193<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> designed to humiliate criminals, as well as applying a character as a facial tattoo to notify one's criminality, the punishment is referred to as 'Qing (黥)', since regular people wouldn't have tattoos on their skin attributed to the same philosophy. </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu,_Eastern_Han_period.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/41/Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg/250px-Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="146" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/41/Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg/330px-Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/41/Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg/500px-Dahuting_tomb_mural_detail_of_women_wearing_hanfu%2C_Eastern_Han_period.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="664" /></a><figcaption>Mural of two women with Han hairstyles, <a href="/wiki/Dahuting" title="Dahuting">Dahuting</a> Tomb</figcaption></figure> <p>Children were exempt from the above commandment; they could cut their hair short, make different kinds of knots or braids, or simply just let them hang without any care, especially because such a decision was usually made by the parents rather than the children themselves; therefore, parental respect was not violated. However, once they entered adulthood, every male was obliged to tie his long hair into a bun called <i>ji</i> (髻) either on or behind his head and always cover the bun up with different kinds of headdresses (except <a href="/wiki/Buddhist" class="mw-redirect" title="Buddhist">Buddhist</a> monks, who would always keep their heads completely shaved to show that they're "cut off from the earthly bonds of the mortal world"; and <a href="/wiki/Taoist" class="mw-redirect" title="Taoist">Taoist</a> monks, who would usually just use hair sticks called <a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">zan</a> to hold the buns in place without concealing them). Thus the 'disheveled hair', a common but erring depiction of ancient Chinese male figures seen in most modern Chinese period dramas or movies with hair (excluding facial hair) hanging down from both sides and/or in the back are historically inaccurate.<sup id="cite_ref-262" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-262"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>250<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Females on the other hand, had more choices in terms of decorating their hair as adults. They could still arrange their hair into as various kinds of hairstyles as they pleased. There were different fashions for women in various dynastic periods. </p><p>Such strict "no-cutting" hair tradition was implemented all throughout Han Chinese history since Confucius' time up until the end of <a href="/wiki/Ming_dynasty" title="Ming dynasty">Ming dynasty</a> (1644 CE), when the Qing Prince <a href="/wiki/Dorgon" title="Dorgon">Dorgon</a> forced the male Han people to adopt the hairstyle of Manchu men, which was shave their foreheads bald and gather the rest of the hair into the <a href="/wiki/Queue_(hairstyle)" title="Queue (hairstyle)">queue</a> to show that they submitted to Qing authority, the so-called "Queue Order" (薙髮令). Han children and females were spared from this order, also Taoist monks were allowed to keep their hair and Buddhist monks were allowed to keep all their hair shaven. <a href="/wiki/Qing_conquest_of_the_Ming#Han_defectors" class="mw-redirect" title="Qing conquest of the Ming">Han defectors to the Qing</a> like Li Chengdong and Liu Liangzuo and their Han troops carried out the queue order to force it on the general population. Han Chinese soldiers in 1645 under Han General Hong Chengchou forced the queue on the people of Jiangnan while Han people were initially paid silver to wear the queue in <a href="/wiki/Fuzhou" title="Fuzhou">Fuzhou</a> when it was first implemented.<sup id="cite_ref-:42_193-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:42-193"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>181<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Accessories">Accessories</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=43" title="Edit section: Accessories"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236090951" /><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Main article: <a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories" title="Hanfu accessories">Hanfu accessories</a></div> <p>Hanfu also consists of many forms of accessories, such as jewelry, waist ornaments, ribbons, shawls, scarves, and other hand-held items. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Influences_and_derivatives">Influences and derivatives</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=44" title="Edit section: Influences and derivatives"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hanbok" title="Hanbok">Hanbok</a> (<a href="/wiki/Korea" title="Korea">Korean</a> traditional clothing)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kimono" title="Kimono">Kimono</a> (<a href="/wiki/Wafuku" class="mw-redirect" title="Wafuku">Wafuku</a> – <a href="/wiki/Japan" title="Japan">Japanese</a> traditional clothing)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ryusou" title="Ryusou">Ryusou</a> (<a href="/wiki/Okinawa_Island" title="Okinawa Island">Okinawan</a> traditional clothing)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_people" title="Vietnamese people">Vietnamese</a> <span title="Vietnamese-language text"><i lang="vi"><a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh" title="Áo giao lĩnh">áo giao lĩnh</a></i></span> (<a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing" title="Vietnamese clothing">Vietnamese clothing</a> – <a href="/wiki/Vietnam" title="Vietnam">Vietnamese</a> traditional clothing)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion" title="Chinoiserie in fashion">Chinoiserie fashion</a>, including <a href="/wiki/Wrap_dress" title="Wrap dress">wrap dress and top</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qizhuang" title="Qizhuang">Qizhuang</a> (traditional clothing of the <a href="/wiki/Manchu_people" title="Manchu people">Manchu people</a>, especially the <a href="/wiki/Qing_dynasty" title="Qing dynasty">Qing dynasty</a> court dress)</li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Gallery">Gallery</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=45" title="Edit section: Gallery"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul class="gallery mw-gallery-packed"> <li class="gallerybox" style="width: 153.33333333333px"> <div class="thumb" style="width: 151.33333333333px;"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg" class="mw-file-description" title="The Tang dynasty clothing, a form of Hanfu"><img alt="The Tang dynasty clothing, a form of Hanfu" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg/227px-%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg" decoding="async" width="152" height="120" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg/341px-%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg/454px-%E5%94%90%E4%BB%A3%E6%96%87%E7%89%A9%E6%8E%80%E8%B5%B7%E5%B1%B1%E8%A5%BF%E2%80%9C%E5%9B%BD%E9%A3%8E%E7%83%AD%E2%80%9D.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1363" data-file-height="1080" /></a></span></div> <div class="gallerytext">The <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> clothing, a form of Hanfu</div> </li> </ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="See_also">See also</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=46" title="Edit section: See also"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1266661725">.mw-parser-output .portalbox{padding:0;margin:0.5em 0;display:table;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:175px;list-style:none}.mw-parser-output .portalborder{border:1px solid var(--border-color-base,#a2a9b1);padding:0.1em;background:var(--background-color-neutral-subtle,#f8f9fa)}.mw-parser-output .portalbox-entry{display:table-row;font-size:85%;line-height:110%;height:1.9em;font-style:italic;font-weight:bold}.mw-parser-output .portalbox-image{display:table-cell;padding:0.2em;vertical-align:middle;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .portalbox-link{display:table-cell;padding:0.2em 0.2em 0.2em 0.3em;vertical-align:middle}@media(min-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .portalleft{margin:0.5em 1em 0.5em 0}.mw-parser-output .portalright{clear:right;float:right;margin:0.5em 0 0.5em 1em}}</style><ul role="navigation" aria-label="Portals" class="noprint portalbox portalborder portalright"> <li class="portalbox-entry"><span class="portalbox-image"><span class="mw-image-border noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="flag" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fa/Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg/32px-Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg.png" decoding="async" width="32" height="21" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fa/Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg/48px-Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fa/Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg/64px-Flag_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="900" data-file-height="600" /></span></span></span><span class="portalbox-link"><a href="/wiki/Portal:China" title="Portal:China">China portal</a></span></li><li class="portalbox-entry"><span class="portalbox-image"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/73/BathingSuit1920s.jpg/40px-BathingSuit1920s.jpg" decoding="async" width="32" height="20" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/73/BathingSuit1920s.jpg/60px-BathingSuit1920s.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/73/BathingSuit1920s.jpg/120px-BathingSuit1920s.jpg 2x" data-file-width="768" data-file-height="490" /></span></span></span><span class="portalbox-link"><a href="/wiki/Portal:Fashion" title="Portal:Fashion">Fashion portal</a></span></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Sub-categories_of_hanfu">Sub-categories of hanfu</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=47" title="Edit section: Sub-categories of hanfu"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_academic_dress" title="Chinese academic dress">Chinese academic dress</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fengguan" title="Fengguan">Fengguan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Guan Li</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories" title="Hanfu accessories">Hanfu accessories</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_footwear" title="Hanfu footwear">Hanfu footwear</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_hanfu" title="List of hanfu">List of hanfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_hanfu_headwear" title="List of hanfu headwear">List of hanfu headwear</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mandarin_square" title="Mandarin square">Mandarin square</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">Qixiong Ruqun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">Shanku</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yuanlingshan" title="Yuanlingshan">Yuanlingshan</a></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Traditional_Chinese_clothing_and_culture">Traditional Chinese clothing and culture</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=48" title="Edit section: Traditional Chinese clothing and culture"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_clothing" title="Chinese clothing">Chinese Clothing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_culture" title="Chinese culture">Chinese Culture</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_China" title="History of China">History of China</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_Movement" title="Hanfu Movement">Hanfu Movement</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Guzhuang_(costume)" title="Guzhuang (costume)">Guzhuang</a></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Notes">Notes</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=49" title="Edit section: Notes"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-27"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-27">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">see <a href="/wiki/Hufu" title="Hufu">Hufu</a>.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-57"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-57">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">For wooden figures from a Xingyang warring-state period tomb, see external links.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-59"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-59">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">In this context, the shanqun refers to the upper garment covering the skirt, while ruqun refers to the covering of upper garment by the skirt.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-132"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-132">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Hufu in the <a href="/wiki/Tang_dynasty" title="Tang dynasty">Tang dynasty</a> included clothing styles from the Tartars or clothing of the people who lived in the Western Regions during this period.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-158"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-158">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The term 'haner' refers to Han Chinese of mixed origins or who have adopted some Khitan customs.</span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=50" title="Edit section: References"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1251242444">.mw-parser-output .ambox{border:1px solid #a2a9b1;border-left:10px solid #36c;background-color:#fbfbfb;box-sizing:border-box}.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+style+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+style+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+link+.ambox{margin-top:-1px}html body.mediawiki .mw-parser-output .ambox.mbox-small-left{margin:4px 1em 4px 0;overflow:hidden;width:238px;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:88%;line-height:1.25em}.mw-parser-output .ambox-speedy{border-left:10px solid #b32424;background-color:#fee7e6}.mw-parser-output .ambox-delete{border-left:10px solid #b32424}.mw-parser-output .ambox-content{border-left:10px solid #f28500}.mw-parser-output .ambox-style{border-left:10px solid #fc3}.mw-parser-output .ambox-move{border-left:10px solid #9932cc}.mw-parser-output .ambox-protection{border-left:10px solid #a2a9b1}.mw-parser-output .ambox .mbox-text{border:none;padding:0.25em 0.5em;width:100%}.mw-parser-output .ambox .mbox-image{border:none;padding:2px 0 2px 0.5em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .ambox .mbox-imageright{border:none;padding:2px 0.5em 2px 0;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .ambox .mbox-empty-cell{border:none;padding:0;width:1px}.mw-parser-output .ambox .mbox-image-div{width:52px}@media(min-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .ambox{margin:0 10%}}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .ambox{display:none!important}}</style><table class="box-Not_English plainlinks metadata ambox ambox-content ambox-not_English" role="presentation"><tbody><tr><td class="mbox-image"><div class="mbox-image-div"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Translation_to_english_arrow.svg" class="mw-file-description" title="Translation to english arrow icon"><img alt="Translation to english arrow icon" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8a/Translation_to_english_arrow.svg/50px-Translation_to_english_arrow.svg.png" decoding="async" width="50" height="17" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8a/Translation_to_english_arrow.svg/75px-Translation_to_english_arrow.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8a/Translation_to_english_arrow.svg/100px-Translation_to_english_arrow.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="60" data-file-height="20" /></a></span></div></td><td class="mbox-text"><div class="mbox-text-span"><b>This reference list needs <a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Translation" title="Wikipedia:Translation">translation</a> from Chinese to English.</b> <br /> <p>This reference list is written in Chinese. If it is intended for readers from the Chinese language community, it should be contributed to the <a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/" class="extiw" title="zh:">Chinese Wikipedia</a>. See the <a href="https://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/List_of_Wikipedias" class="extiw" title="meta:List of Wikipedias">list of Wikipedias</a>. Please see <b><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Pages_needing_translation_into_English#Hanfu" title="Wikipedia:Pages needing translation into English">this article's entry</a></b> on <a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Pages_needing_translation_into_English" title="Wikipedia:Pages needing translation into English">Pages needing translation into English</a> for discussion. If the reference list is not <a class="external text" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit">rewritten in English</a> within the next two weeks it will be <a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Articles_for_deletion" title="Wikipedia:Articles for deletion">listed for deletion</a> and/or moved to the <a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/" class="extiw" title="zh:">Chinese Wikipedia</a>. </p> <hr />If you want to assess this article, you may want to check its <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://translate.google.com/translate?u=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu&sl=zh&tl=en&hl=en">Google translation</a>. However, <b>please do not add an automated translation to the article</b>, since these are generally of very poor quality.</div></td></tr></tbody></table> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239543626" /><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap mw-references-columns"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-auto789-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto789_1-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite id="CITEREFWangColbertLegoux2020" class="citation journal cs1">Wang, Xinyi; Colbert, François; Legoux, Renaud (2020). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.proquest.com/openview/94841c5430526c8b27950e1e941835fe/1?pq-origsite=gscholar&cbl=26212">"From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China"</a>. <i>International Journal of Arts Management</i>. <b>23</b> (1)<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">1 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=International+Journal+of+Arts+Management&rft.atitle=From+Niche+Interest+to+Fashion+Trend%3A+Hanfu+Clothing+as+a+Rising+Industry+in+China&rft.volume=23&rft.issue=1&rft.date=2020&rft.aulast=Wang&rft.aufirst=Xinyi&rft.au=Colbert%2C+Fran%C3%A7ois&rft.au=Legoux%2C+Renaud&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.proquest.com%2Fopenview%2F94841c5430526c8b27950e1e941835fe%2F1%3Fpq-origsite%3Dgscholar%26cbl%3D26212&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:2-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_2-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSteele1999" class="citation book cs1">Steele, Valerie (1999). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/40135301"><i>China chic : East meets West</i></a>. John S. Major. 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Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-137-53775-1" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-137-53775-1"><bdi>978-1-137-53775-1</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/946357865">946357865</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Luxury+the+Chinese+way+%3A+new+competitive+scenarios&rft.place=Houndmills%2C+Basingstoke%2C+Hampshire&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F946357865&rft.isbn=978-1-137-53775-1&rft.aulast=Rovai&rft.aufirst=Serena&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F946357865&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Evenson-15"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Evenson_15-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSandra_Lee_Evenson2014" class="citation encyclopaedia cs1">Sandra Lee Evenson (2014). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=tiEvBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA135">"Hanfu Chinese robes"</a>. 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Retrieved <span class="nowrap">28 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=you.stonybrook.edu&rft.atitle=Ancient+China+%7C+Chinese+Culture%3A+Communicating+through+Fashion&rft.aulast=Gardner&rft.aufirst=Eric&rft.au=Lin%2C+Shuning&rft.au=Tan%2C+Qiuye&rft.au=Ma%2C+Antonia&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fyou.stonybrook.edu%2Fchinesefashion%2Fancient-china%2F&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-26"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-26">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSim2019" class="citation book cs1">Sim, Cheryl (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1109390790"><i>Wearing the cheongsam : dress and culture in a Chinese diaspora</i></a>. London. p. 149. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-350-10987-2" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-350-10987-2"><bdi>978-1-350-10987-2</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1109390790">1109390790</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Wearing+the+cheongsam+%3A+dress+and+culture+in+a+Chinese+diaspora&rft.place=London&rft.pages=149&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1109390790&rft.isbn=978-1-350-10987-2&rft.aulast=Sim&rft.aufirst=Cheryl&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1109390790&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:33-28"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:33_28-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFFinnane2008" class="citation book cs1">Finnane, Antonia (2008). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/84903948"><i>Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation</i></a>. New York: Columbia University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-231-14350-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-231-14350-9"><bdi>978-0-231-14350-9</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/84903948">84903948</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Changing+clothes+in+China+%3A+fashion%2C+history%2C+nation&rft.place=New+York&rft.pub=Columbia+University+Press&rft.date=2008&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F84903948&rft.isbn=978-0-231-14350-9&rft.aulast=Finnane&rft.aufirst=Antonia&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F84903948&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-bbc.co.uk-29"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-bbc.co.uk_29-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-bbc.co.uk_29-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b06yglnh">"Ancestors, The Story of China – BBC Two"</a>. <i>BBC</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=BBC&rft.atitle=Ancestors%2C+The+Story+of+China+%E2%80%93+BBC+Two&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.co.uk%2Fprogrammes%2Fb06yglnh&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:3-30"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:3_30-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDien2007" class="citation book cs1">Dien, Albert E. (2007). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/72868060"><i>Six dynasties civilization</i></a>. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-300-07404-8" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-300-07404-8"><bdi>978-0-300-07404-8</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/72868060">72868060</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Six+dynasties+civilization&rft.place=New+Haven%2C+Conn.&rft.pub=Yale+University+Press&rft.date=2007&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F72868060&rft.isbn=978-0-300-07404-8&rft.aulast=Dien&rft.aufirst=Albert+E.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F72868060&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:0-31"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:0_31-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_31-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_31-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_31-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_31-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLüsted2017" class="citation book cs1">Lüsted, Marcia Amidon (2017). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/957525459"><i>Ancient Chinese daily life</i></a> (1 ed.). New York: New York : Rosen Publishing. pp. <span class="nowrap">14–</span>22. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-4777-8889-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-4777-8889-9"><bdi>978-1-4777-8889-9</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/957525459">957525459</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Ancient+Chinese+daily+life&rft.place=New+York&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E14-%3C%2Fspan%3E22&rft.edition=1&rft.pub=New+York+%3A+Rosen+Publishing&rft.date=2017&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F957525459&rft.isbn=978-1-4777-8889-9&rft.aulast=L%C3%BCsted&rft.aufirst=Marcia+Amidon&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F957525459&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:102-32"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:102_32-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=WK-1DwAAQBAJ&dq=aoqun%20clothing&pg=PA47"><i>Styling Shanghai</i></a>. Christopher Breward, Juliette MacDonald. London, UK: Bloomsbury. 2020. pp. <span class="nowrap">47–</span>50, 54. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-350-05114-0" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-350-05114-0"><bdi>978-1-350-05114-0</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1029205918">1029205918</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Styling+Shanghai&rft.place=London%2C+UK&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E47-%3C%2Fspan%3E50%2C+54&rft.pub=Bloomsbury&rft.date=2020&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1029205918&rft.isbn=978-1-350-05114-0&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DWK-1DwAAQBAJ%26dq%3Daoqun%2520clothing%26pg%3DPA47&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: others (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others" title="Category:CS1 maint: others">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:17-33"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-17"><sup><i><b>r</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-18"><sup><i><b>s</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-19"><sup><i><b>t</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-20"><sup><i><b>u</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-21"><sup><i><b>v</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-22"><sup><i><b>w</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-23"><sup><i><b>x</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-24"><sup><i><b>y</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:17_33-25"><sup><i><b>z</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFFengDu2015" class="citation book cs1">Feng, Ge; Du, Zhengming (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=wAz5DAAAQBAJ&q=shenyi+zhou+dynasty&pg=PA15"><i>Traditional Chinese rites and rituals</i></a>. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781443887830" title="Special:BookSources/9781443887830"><bdi>9781443887830</bdi></a><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">4 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Traditional+Chinese+rites+and+rituals&rft.place=Newcastle+upon+Tyne&rft.pub=Cambridge+Scholars+Publishing&rft.date=2015&rft.isbn=9781443887830&rft.aulast=Feng&rft.aufirst=Ge&rft.au=Du%2C+Zhengming&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DwAz5DAAAQBAJ%26q%3Dshenyi%2Bzhou%2Bdynasty%26pg%3DPA15&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-34"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-34">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhao2014" class="citation book cs1">Zhao, Yin (2014). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20210524154125/https://www.google.ca/books/edition/Snapshots_of_Chinese_Culture/vwdaAgAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=shang+dynasty+skirt&pg=PT158&printsec=frontcover&bsq=shang+dynasty+skirt"><i>Snapshots of Chinese culture</i></a>. Xinzhi Cai. Los Angeles: Bridge21 Publications. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-62643-003-7" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-62643-003-7"><bdi>978-1-62643-003-7</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/912499249">912499249</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=vwdaAgAAQBAJ&dq=shang%20dynasty%20skirt&pg=PT158">the original</a> on 24 May 2021.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Snapshots+of+Chinese+culture&rft.place=Los+Angeles&rft.pub=Bridge21+Publications&rft.date=2014&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F912499249&rft.isbn=978-1-62643-003-7&rft.aulast=Zhao&rft.aufirst=Yin&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DvwdaAgAAQBAJ%26dq%3Dshang%2520dynasty%2520skirt%26pg%3DPT158&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/912499249">Alt URL</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-dx.doi.org-35"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-dx.doi.org_35-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFXuSparks2011" class="citation journal cs1">Xu, Rui; Sparks, Diane (2011). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-15-01-2011-b002">"Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume"</a>. <i>Research Journal of Textile and Apparel</i>. <b>15</b> (1): <span class="nowrap">11–</span>21. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1108%2Frjta-15-01-2011-b002">10.1108/rjta-15-01-2011-b002</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/1560-6074">1560-6074</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Research+Journal+of+Textile+and+Apparel&rft.atitle=Symbolism+and+Evolution+of+Ku-form+in+Chinese+Costume&rft.volume=15&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E11-%3C%2Fspan%3E21&rft.date=2011&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1108%2Frjta-15-01-2011-b002&rft.issn=1560-6074&rft.aulast=Xu&rft.aufirst=Rui&rft.au=Sparks%2C+Diane&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1108%2Frjta-15-01-2011-b002&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:1-36"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_36-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSheng1995" class="citation journal cs1">Sheng, Angela (1995). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/43290485">"The Disappearance of Silk Weaves with Weft Effects in Early China"</a>. <i>Chinese Science</i> (12): <span class="nowrap">41–</span>76. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0361-9001">0361-9001</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/43290485">43290485</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Chinese+Science&rft.atitle=The+Disappearance+of+Silk+Weaves+with+Weft+Effects+in+Early+China&rft.issue=12&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E41-%3C%2Fspan%3E76&rft.date=1995&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F43290485%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft.issn=0361-9001&rft.aulast=Sheng&rft.aufirst=Angela&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F43290485&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-37"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-37">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFThe_National_Museum_of_China" class="citation web cs1">The National Museum of China. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://123.119.65.169/portals/0/web/zt/gudai/en/detail2.html">"Xia, Shang, and Western Zhou Dynasties : II Economy"</a>. <i>The National Museum of China</i>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20210211152328/http://123.119.65.169/portals/0/web/zt/gudai/en/detail2.html">Archived</a> from the original on 11 February 2021<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=The+National+Museum+of+China&rft.atitle=Xia%2C+Shang%2C+and+Western+Zhou+Dynasties+%3A+II+Economy&rft.au=The+National+Museum+of+China&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2F123.119.65.169%2Fportals%2F0%2Fweb%2Fzt%2Fgudai%2Fen%2Fdetail2.html&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-38"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-38">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.chinafetching.com/shang-dynasty">"Shang Dynasty (1600 B. C. — 1046 B. C.) — Empire of Bronze Age and Scripts on Oracle Bones"</a>. <i>chinafetching.com</i>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20210211152328/http://www.chinafetching.com/shang-dynasty">Archived</a> from the original on 11 February 2021<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">8 March</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=chinafetching.com&rft.atitle=Shang+Dynasty+%281600+B.+C.+%E2%80%94+1046+B.+C.%29+%E2%80%94+Empire+of+Bronze+Age+and+Scripts+on+Oracle+Bones&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinafetching.com%2Fshang-dynasty&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-39"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-39">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Zuozhuan, <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E6%98%A5%E7%A7%8B%E5%B7%A6%E6%B0%8F%E5%82%B3/%E5%AE%9A%E5%85%AC#%E5%82%B3_10">"Duke Ding - 10th year - zhuan"</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-40"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-40">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><i>Chunqiu Zuozhuan Zhengyi</i>, "vol. 56" quote: "夏,大也。中國有禮儀之大,故稱夏;有服章之美,謂之華。華、夏一也。" <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://ctext.org/library.pl?if=gb&file=80244&page=70#%E5%A4%8F%E5%A4%A7%E4%B9%9F%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E6%9C%89%E7%A6%AE%E5%84%80%E4%B9%8B%E5%A4%A7%E6%95%85%E7%A8%B1%E5%A4%8F%E6%9C%89%E6%9C%8D%E7%AB%A0%E4%B9%8B%E7%BE%8E%E8%AC%82%E4%B9%8B%E8%8F%AF%E8%8F%AF%E5%A4%8F%E4%B8%80%E4%B9%9F">p. 70</a> of 118</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-41"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-41">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLiu2005" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source">Liu, Xuediao [劉學銚] (2005). <bdi lang="zh">中國文化史講稿</bdi> (in Chinese). Taipei: 知書房出版集團. p. 9. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-986-7640-65-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-986-7640-65-9"><bdi>978-986-7640-65-9</bdi></a>. <q>古時炎黃之胄常自稱,「華夏」有時又作「諸夏」《左傳》定公十年(西元前 500 年)有:裔不謀夏,夷不亂華。對於此句其疏曰:中國有禮儀之大,故稱夏;有服章之美,謂之華。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E5%8F%B2%E8%AC%9B%E7%A8%BF&rft.place=Taipei&rft.pages=9&rft.pub=%E7%9F%A5%E6%9B%B8%E6%88%BF%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E9%9B%86%E5%9C%98&rft.date=2005&rft.isbn=978-986-7640-65-9&rft.aulast=Liu&rft.aufirst=Xuediao+%5B%E5%8A%89%E5%AD%B8%E9%8A%9A%5D&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-42"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-42">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhuZhangLiuCai2016" class="citation book cs1">Zhu, Ruixi; Zhang, Bangwei; Liu, Fusheng; Cai, Chongbang; Wang, Zengyu (2016). <i>A Social History of Medieval China</i>. Cambridge University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-107-16786-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-107-16786-5"><bdi>978-1-107-16786-5</bdi></a>. <q>To quote an ancient text, "there is grand ceremonial etiquette so it is called xia (<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">夏</span></span>), and there is the beauty of apparel which is called hua (<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">华</span></span>)."[1] (And that's how China is also called huaxia [<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">华夏</span></span>].) [...] [1] 'The Tenth Year of Duke Ding of Lu' (<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">定公十年</span></span>), Zuo Qiuming's Commentary on Spring and Autumn Annals (<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">左傳</span></span>), explained by Yan Shigu (<span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh">顏師古</span></span>, 581–645).</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+Social+History+of+Medieval+China&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2016&rft.isbn=978-1-107-16786-5&rft.aulast=Zhu&rft.aufirst=Ruixi&rft.au=Zhang%2C+Bangwei&rft.au=Liu%2C+Fusheng&rft.au=Cai%2C+Chongbang&rft.au=Wang%2C+Zengyu&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-43"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-43">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF阮衛萍1992" class="citation journal cs1">阮衛萍 (1992). "從今话古談襦裙". <i>紫禁城</i> (5): <span class="nowrap">26–</span>30. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/1003-0328">1003-0328</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=%E7%B4%AB%E7%A6%81%E5%9F%8E&rft.atitle=%E5%BE%9E%E4%BB%8A%E8%AF%9D%E5%8F%A4%E8%AB%87%E8%A5%A6%E8%A3%99&rft.issue=5&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E26-%3C%2Fspan%3E30&rft.date=1992&rft.issn=1003-0328&rft.au=%E9%98%AE%E8%A1%9B%E8%90%8D&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-44"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-44">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">(<i>“所以称深衣者,以余服则,上衣下裳不相连,此深衣衣裳相连,被体深邃,故谓之深衣。”</i>) <i>Liji Zhengyi</i> (礼记正义·深衣) vol. 65, of <i>Wujing Zhengyi</i> (五经正义).</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-45"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-45">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">故宮博物院《紫禁城》(1992年第05期),紫禁城雜誌編輯部,第28-32頁</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Zhang_2015-46"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-17"><sup><i><b>r</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-18"><sup><i><b>s</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-19"><sup><i><b>t</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-20"><sup><i><b>u</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-21"><sup><i><b>v</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-22"><sup><i><b>w</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-23"><sup><i><b>x</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-24"><sup><i><b>y</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Zhang_2015_46-25"><sup><i><b>z</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhang2015" class="citation book cs1">Zhang, Qizhi (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=1QhJCAAAQBAJ"><i>An introduction to Chinese history and culture</i></a>. Heidelberg: Heidelberg Springer. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-662-46482-3" title="Special:BookSources/978-3-662-46482-3"><bdi>978-3-662-46482-3</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/909065833">909065833</a><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">4 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=An+introduction+to+Chinese+history+and+culture&rft.place=Heidelberg&rft.pub=Heidelberg+Springer&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F909065833&rft.isbn=978-3-662-46482-3&rft.aulast=Zhang&rft.aufirst=Qizhi&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D1QhJCAAAQBAJ&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-47"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-47">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><i><a href="/wiki/Book_of_Rites" title="Book of Rites">Book of Rites</a></i>, "vol. 43" <i>冠義</i> quote: "凡人之所以為人者,禮義也。禮義之始,在於正容體、齊顏色、順辭令。容體正,顏色齊,辭令順,而後禮義備。以正君臣、親父子、和長幼。君臣正,父子親,長幼和,而後禮義立。故冠而後服備,服備而後容體正、顏色齊、辭令順。故曰:冠者,禮之始也。是故古者聖王重冠。" <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://ctext.org/liji/guan-yi">1 of 4</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:94-48"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:94_48-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:94_48-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSnodgrass2015" class="citation book cs1">Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/910448387"><i>World Clothing and Fashion : an Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence</i></a>. Hoboken: Taylor and Francis. pp. <span class="nowrap">121–</span>122. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-317-45167-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-317-45167-9"><bdi>978-1-317-45167-9</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/910448387">910448387</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=World+Clothing+and+Fashion+%3A+an+Encyclopedia+of+History%2C+Culture%2C+and+Social+Influence.&rft.place=Hoboken&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E121-%3C%2Fspan%3E122&rft.pub=Taylor+and+Francis&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F910448387&rft.isbn=978-1-317-45167-9&rft.aulast=Snodgrass&rft.aufirst=Mary+Ellen&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F910448387&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:81-49"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:81_49-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFMilburnYan2015" class="citation book cs1">Milburn, Olivia; Yan, Ying (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/933295487"><i>The Spring and autumn annals of Master Yan</i></a>. Leiden: Brill. p. 319. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-90-04-30966-1" title="Special:BookSources/978-90-04-30966-1"><bdi>978-90-04-30966-1</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/933295487">933295487</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Spring+and+autumn+annals+of+Master+Yan&rft.place=Leiden&rft.pages=319&rft.pub=Brill&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F933295487&rft.isbn=978-90-04-30966-1&rft.aulast=Milburn&rft.aufirst=Olivia&rft.au=Yan%2C+Ying&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F933295487&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:95-50"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:95_50-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:95_50-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:95_50-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFWang2019" class="citation book cs1">Wang, Ningning (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=-le9DwAAQBAJ&dq=Western%20Zhou%20period%20dress&pg=PA139"><i>A HISTORY OF ANCIENT CHINESE MUSIC AND DANCE</i></a>. American Academic Press. p. 139. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9781631816345" title="Special:BookSources/9781631816345"><bdi>9781631816345</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+HISTORY+OF+ANCIENT+CHINESE+MUSIC+AND+DANCE&rft.pages=139&rft.pub=American+Academic+Press&rft.date=2019&rft.isbn=9781631816345&rft.aulast=Wang&rft.aufirst=Ningning&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D-le9DwAAQBAJ%26dq%3DWestern%2520Zhou%2520period%2520dress%26pg%3DPA139&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:57-51"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:57_51-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZang臧迎春.2003" class="citation book cs1">Zang, Yingchun; 臧迎春. (2003). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&dq=%E4%B8%AD%E5%9B%BD%E4%BC%A0%E7%BB%9F%E6%9C%8D%E9%A5%B0&pg=PA43"><i>Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi</i></a>. 李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/7-5085-0279-5" title="Special:BookSources/7-5085-0279-5"><bdi>7-5085-0279-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/55895164">55895164</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Zhongguo+chuan+tong+fu+shi&rft.place=Beijing&rft.edition=Di+1+ban&rft.pub=Wu+zhou+chuan+bo+chu+ban+she&rft.date=2003&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F55895164&rft.isbn=7-5085-0279-5&rft.aulast=Zang&rft.aufirst=Yingchun&rft.au=%E8%87%A7%E8%BF%8E%E6%98%A5.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Dm7Qf-bjLfA4C%26dq%3D%25E4%25B8%25AD%25E5%259B%25BD%25E4%25BC%25A0%25E7%25BB%259F%25E6%259C%258D%25E9%25A5%25B0%26pg%3DPA43&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/55895164">Alt URL</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-52"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-52">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"2". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%84%80%E7%A6%AE/%E5%A3%AB%E6%98%AC%E7%A6%AE"><i>Li yi</i></a>. <q>女子許嫁,笄而醴之,稱字。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=2&rft.btitle=Li+yi&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fwiki%2F%25E5%2584%2580%25E7%25A6%25AE%2F%25E5%25A3%25AB%25E6%2598%25AC%25E7%25A6%25AE&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-53"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-53">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"2". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%84%80%E7%A6%AE/%E5%A3%AB%E5%86%A0%E7%A6%AE"><i>Li yi</i></a>. <q>皮弁笄,爵弁笄,緇組紘,纁邊,同篋。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=2&rft.btitle=Li+yi&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fwiki%2F%25E5%2584%2580%25E7%25A6%25AE%2F%25E5%25A3%25AB%25E5%2586%25A0%25E7%25A6%25AE&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-chinastyle.cn-54"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-chinastyle.cn_54-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-chinastyle.cn_54-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChina_Style" class="citation web cs1">China Style. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinastyle.cn/clothing/history/spring-autumn-warring.htm">"Garments during the Spring & Autumn and Warring States Period – – China Style"</a>. <i>www.chinastyle.cn</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Jefferson, North Carolina: McFarland, Incorporated, Publishers. p. 50. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-4766-6332-6" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-4766-6332-6"><bdi>978-1-4766-6332-6</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/933520702">933520702</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Textiles+and+clothing+of+Viet+Nam+%3A+a+history&rft.place=Jefferson%2C+North+Carolina&rft.pages=50&rft.pub=McFarland%2C+Incorporated%2C+Publishers&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F933520702&rft.isbn=978-1-4766-6332-6&rft.aulast=Howard&rft.aufirst=Michael+C.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F933520702&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:46-69"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:46_69-17"><sup><i><b>r</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1030303372"><i>Introduction to Chinese culture : cultural history, arts, festivals and rituals</i></a>. Guobin Xu, Yanhui Chen, Lianhua Xu, Kaiju Chen, Xiyuan Xiong, Wenquan Wu. Singapore. 2018. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-981-10-8156-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-981-10-8156-9"><bdi>978-981-10-8156-9</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1030303372">1030303372</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Introduction+to+Chinese+culture+%3A+cultural+history%2C+arts%2C+festivals+and+rituals&rft.place=Singapore&rft.date=2018&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1030303372&rft.isbn=978-981-10-8156-9&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1030303372&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>) CS1 maint: others (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others" title="Category:CS1 maint: others">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-71"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-71">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"25". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%99%89%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7025"><i>Book of Jin</i></a>. <q><span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"通天冠,本秦制。高九寸,正竖,顶少斜却,乃直下,铁为卷梁,前有展筒,冠前加金博山述,乘舆所常服也。 "<span class="cs1-kern-right"></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=25&rft.btitle=Book+of+Jin&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E6%2599%2589%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7025&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-72"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-72">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFFeng2015" class="citation book cs1">Feng, Ge (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/935642485"><i>Traditional Chinese rites and rituals</i></a>. Zhengming Du. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. pp. <span class="nowrap">15–</span>16. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-4438-8783-0" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-4438-8783-0"><bdi>978-1-4438-8783-0</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/935642485">935642485</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Traditional+Chinese+rites+and+rituals&rft.place=Newcastle+upon+Tyne&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E15-%3C%2Fspan%3E16&rft.pub=Cambridge+Scholars+Publishing&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F935642485&rft.isbn=978-1-4438-8783-0&rft.aulast=Feng&rft.aufirst=Ge&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F935642485&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-73"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-73">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFvan_SomerenSomeren-Wang2013" class="citation book cs1">van Someren, Taco C. R. van; Someren-Wang, Shuhua (2013). "Chinese Culture, Strategy, and Innovation". <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/842903195"><i>Innovative China : innovation race between East and West</i></a>. Shuhua Someren-Wang. Berlin: Springer. pp. <span class="nowrap">27–</span>56. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-642-36237-8" title="Special:BookSources/978-3-642-36237-8"><bdi>978-3-642-36237-8</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/842903195">842903195</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chinese+Culture%2C+Strategy%2C+and+Innovation&rft.btitle=Innovative+China+%3A+innovation+race+between+East+and+West&rft.place=Berlin&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E27-%3C%2Fspan%3E56&rft.pub=Springer&rft.date=2013&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F842903195&rft.isbn=978-3-642-36237-8&rft.aulast=van+Someren&rft.aufirst=Taco+C.+R.+van&rft.au=Someren-Wang%2C+Shuhua&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F842903195&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:55-74"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:55_74-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/china-history-dress">"China: History of Dress | Encyclopedia.com"</a>. <i>www.encyclopedia.com</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">28 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=www.encyclopedia.com&rft.atitle=China%3A+History+of+Dress+%7C+Encyclopedia.com&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.encyclopedia.com%2Ffashion%2Fencyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps%2Fchina-history-dress&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:4-75"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:4_75-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:4_75-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinastyle.cn/clothing/history/han.htm">"Costume in the Han Dynasty – - China Style"</a>. <i>www.chinastyle.cn</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg. pp. <span class="nowrap">391–</span>392. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1007%2F978-3-662-44166-4">10.1007/978-3-662-44166-4</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-662-44165-7" title="Special:BookSources/978-3-662-44165-7"><bdi>978-3-662-44165-7</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:106930105">106930105</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+History+of+Chinese+Science+and+Technology&rft.place=Berlin%2C+Heidelberg&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E391-%3C%2Fspan%3E392&rft.pub=Springer+Berlin+Heidelberg&rft.date=2015&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A106930105%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1007%2F978-3-662-44166-4&rft.isbn=978-3-662-44165-7&rft.aulast=Zhao&rft.aufirst=Feng&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Flink.springer.com%2F10.1007%2F978-3-662-44166-4&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-78"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-78">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://ctext.org/shang-shu/yi-and-ji">"Shang Shu : Yu Shu : Yi and Ji – Chinese Text Project"</a>. <i>ctext.org</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">17 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=ctext.org&rft.atitle=Shang+Shu+%3A+Yu+Shu+%3A+Yi+and+Ji+%E2%80%93+Chinese+Text+Project&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fctext.org%2Fshang-shu%2Fyi-and-ji&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-80"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-80">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"26". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%99%89%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7025"><i>晋书</i></a>. <q><span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"介帻服文吏,平上帻服武官也"<span class="cs1-kern-right"></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=26&rft.btitle=%E6%99%8B%E4%B9%A6&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E6%2599%2589%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7025&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-83"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-83">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E7%A6%BD%E7%B6%93"><i>禽经</i></a>. <q><span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"鹖,毅鸟也,毅不知死。状类鸡,首有冠,性敢于斗,死犹不置,是不知死也。《左传》:鹖冠,武土戴之,象其勇也。 "<span class="cs1-kern-right"></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E7%A6%BD%E7%BB%8F&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E7%25A6%25BD%25E7%25B6%2593&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:89-85"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:89_85-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFMüller2019" class="citation book cs1">Müller, Shing (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/2424772"><i>The Cambridge history of China</i></a>. 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Cambridge [England]: Cambridge University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8"><bdi>978-0-521-24327-8</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/2424772">2424772</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Cambridge+history+of+China&rft.place=Cambridge+%5BEngland%5D&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F2424772&rft.isbn=978-0-521-24327-8&rft.aulast=M%C3%BCller&rft.aufirst=Shing&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F2424772&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:90-86"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:90_86-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFKieser2019" class="citation book cs1">Kieser, Annette (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/2424772"><i>The Cambridge history of China</i></a>. Vol. 2. Denis Crispin Twitchett, John King Fairbank. Cambridge [England]: Cambridge University Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">418–</span>442. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8"><bdi>978-0-521-24327-8</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/2424772">2424772</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Cambridge+history+of+China&rft.place=Cambridge+%5BEngland%5D&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E418-%3C%2Fspan%3E442&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F2424772&rft.isbn=978-0-521-24327-8&rft.aulast=Kieser&rft.aufirst=Annette&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F2424772&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-87"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-87">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"15". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E9%87%8B%E5%90%8D#%E9%87%8B%E9%A6%96%E9%A3%BE%E7%AC%AC%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%94"><i>Shiming</i></a>. <q>簪珥。珥。耳珰垂珠也。簪以玳瑁为擿,长一尺,端为华胜,上为凤皇爵,以翡翠为毛羽,下有白珠,垂黄金镊。左右一横簪之,以安蔮结。诸簪珥皆同制,其擿有等级焉。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=15&rft.btitle=Shiming&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fwiki%2F%25E9%2587%258B%25E5%2590%258D%23%25E9%2587%258B%25E9%25A6%2596%25E9%25A3%25BE%25E7%25AC%25AC%25E5%258D%2581%25E4%25BA%2594&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-88"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-88">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"15". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E9%87%8B%E5%90%8D#%E9%87%8B%E9%A6%96%E9%A3%BE%E7%AC%AC%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%94"><i>Shiming</i></a>. <q>步搖,上有垂珠,步則搖也。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=15&rft.btitle=Shiming&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fwiki%2F%25E9%2587%258B%25E5%2590%258D%23%25E9%2587%258B%25E9%25A6%2596%25E9%25A3%25BE%25E7%25AC%25AC%25E5%258D%2581%25E4%25BA%2594&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:127-90"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:127_90-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLaursen2019" class="citation book cs1">Laursen, Sarah (2019). "10 Dressing the Dead in Jin China". <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1090702934"><i>The art and archaeology of bodily adornment : studies from Central and East Asian mortuary contexts</i></a>. Sheri Lullo, Leslie V. Wallace. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. pp. <span class="nowrap">176–</span>195. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-351-26832-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-351-26832-5"><bdi>978-1-351-26832-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1090702934">1090702934</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=10+Dressing+the+Dead+in+Jin+China&rft.btitle=The+art+and+archaeology+of+bodily+adornment+%3A+studies+from+Central+and+East+Asian+mortuary+contexts&rft.place=Abingdon%2C+Oxon&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E176-%3C%2Fspan%3E195&rft.pub=Routledge&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1090702934&rft.isbn=978-1-351-26832-5&rft.aulast=Laursen&rft.aufirst=Sarah&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1090702934&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-91"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-91">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhouBian2018" class="citation web cs1">Zhou, Fang; Bian, Xiangyang (2018). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.cnsilk.cn/en/oa/darticle.aspx?type=view&id=201709025">"LUO GUI XU ZHUAN HONG XIU YANG: – some questions about GUIYI"</a>. <i>China Silk Information Center</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=China+Silk+Information+Center&rft.atitle=LUO+GUI+XU+ZHUAN+HONG+XIU+YANG%3A+%E2%80%93+some+questions+about+GUIYI&rft.date=2018&rft.aulast=Zhou&rft.aufirst=Fang&rft.au=Bian%2C+Xiangyang&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cnsilk.cn%2Fen%2Foa%2Fdarticle.aspx%3Ftype%3Dview%26id%3D201709025&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><sup class="noprint Inline-Template"><span style="white-space: nowrap;">[<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Link_rot" title="Wikipedia:Link rot"><span title=" Dead link tagged May 2021">dead link</span></a></i><span style="visibility:hidden; color:transparent; padding-left:2px">‍</span>]</span></sup> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.airitilibrary.com/Publication/alDetailedMesh?docid=sichou201806016">Alt URL</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-92"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-92">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLullo2019" class="citation journal cs1">Lullo, Sheri A. (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2019.0122">"Trailing Locks and Flowing Robes: Dimensions of Beauty during China's Han dynasty (206 bc–ad 220)"</a>. <i>Edinburgh University Press</i>. <b>53</b> (2): <span class="nowrap">231–</span>255. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.3366%2Fcost.2019.0122">10.3366/cost.2019.0122</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0590-8876">0590-8876</a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:204710548">204710548</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Edinburgh+University+Press&rft.atitle=Trailing+Locks+and+Flowing+Robes%3A+Dimensions+of+Beauty+during+China%27s+Han+dynasty+%28206+bc%E2%80%93ad+220%29&rft.volume=53&rft.issue=2&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E231-%3C%2Fspan%3E255&rft.date=2019&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A204710548%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft.issn=0590-8876&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.3366%2Fcost.2019.0122&rft.aulast=Lullo&rft.aufirst=Sheri+A.&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.3366%2Fcost.2019.0122&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-93"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-93">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDuong" class="citation web cs1">Duong, Nancy. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://nannaia.tumblr.com/post/42640184651/evolution-of-chinese-clothing-and-cheongsam-the">"Evolution of Chinese Clothing and Cheongsam"</a>. <i>Nancy Duong Art</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=Nancy+Duong+Art&rft.atitle=Evolution+of+Chinese+Clothing+and+Cheongsam&rft.aulast=Duong&rft.aufirst=Nancy&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fnannaia.tumblr.com%2Fpost%2F42640184651%2Fevolution-of-chinese-clothing-and-cheongsam-the&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-94"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-94">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"25". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%99%89%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7025"><i>Book of Jin</i></a>. <q><span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"通天冠,本秦制。高九寸,正竖,顶少斜却,乃直下,铁为卷梁,前有展筒,冠前加金博山述,乘舆所常服也。 " "武冠,一名武弁,一名大冠,一名繁冠,一名建冠,一名笼冠,即古之惠文冠。或曰赵惠文王所造,因以为名。亦云,惠者蟪也,其冠文轻细如蝉翼,故名惠文。或云,齐人见千岁涸泽之神,名曰庆忌,冠大冠,乘小车,好疾驰,因象其冠而服焉。汉幸臣闳孺为侍中,皆服大冠。天子元服亦先加大冠,左右侍臣及诸将军武官通服之。侍中、常侍则加金珰,附蝉为饰,插以貂毛,黄金为竿,侍中插左,常侍插右。"<span class="cs1-kern-right"></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=25&rft.btitle=Book+of+Jin&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E6%2599%2589%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7025&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Chinastyle-95"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Chinastyle_95-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Chinastyle_95-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChinastyle" class="citation web cs1">Chinastyle. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.chinastyle.cn/clothing/history/wei.htm">"Costume of Wei and Jin Periods – - China Style"</a>. <i>www.chinastyle.cn</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Cambridge [England]: Cambridge University Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">436–</span>439. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-521-24327-8"><bdi>978-0-521-24327-8</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/2424772">2424772</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Cambridge+history+of+China&rft.place=Cambridge+%5BEngland%5D&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E436-%3C%2Fspan%3E439&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F2424772&rft.isbn=978-0-521-24327-8&rft.aulast=Kieser&rft.aufirst=Annette&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F2424772&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-101"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-101">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLewis2009" class="citation book cs1">Lewis, Mark Edward (2009). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/432671549"><i>China between empires : the northern and southern dynasties</i></a>. 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Lanham, Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield. p. 149. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-5381-3489-4" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-5381-3489-4"><bdi>978-1-5381-3489-4</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1122686753">1122686753</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Women+in+Tang+China&rft.place=Lanham%2C+Maryland&rft.pages=149&rft.pub=Rowman+%26+Littlefield&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1122686753&rft.isbn=978-1-5381-3489-4&rft.aulast=Hinsch&rft.aufirst=Bret&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D9XS7DwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dsui%2Bdynasty%2Bclothing%26pg%3DPA149&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-112"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-112">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHanQuye2018" class="citation journal cs1">Han, Jing; Quye, Anita (2 January 2018). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1440099">"Dyes and Dyeing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties in China: Preliminary Evidence Based on Primary Sources of Documented Recipes"</a>. <i>Textile History</i>. <b>49</b> (1): <span class="nowrap">44–</span>70. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1080%2F00404969.2018.1440099">10.1080/00404969.2018.1440099</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0040-4969">0040-4969</a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:192360196">192360196</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Textile+History&rft.atitle=Dyes+and+Dyeing+in+the+Ming+and+Qing+Dynasties+in+China%3A+Preliminary+Evidence+Based+on+Primary+Sources+of+Documented+Recipes&rft.volume=49&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E44-%3C%2Fspan%3E70&rft.date=2018-01-02&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A192360196%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft.issn=0040-4969&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1080%2F00404969.2018.1440099&rft.aulast=Han&rft.aufirst=Jing&rft.au=Quye%2C+Anita&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1080%2F00404969.2018.1440099&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-113"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-113">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://you.stonybrook.edu/changanculture/clothing/">"2. 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State University of New York Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">132–</span>134. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-7914-8268-1" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-7914-8268-1"><bdi>978-0-7914-8268-1</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1042816832">1042816832</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Emperor+Yang+of+the+Sui+Dynasty+%3A+His+Life%2C+Times%2C+and+Legacy.&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E132-%3C%2Fspan%3E134&rft.pub=State+University+of+New+York+Press&rft.date=2006&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1042816832&rft.isbn=978-0-7914-8268-1&rft.aulast=Cunrui&rft.aufirst=Victor+Xiong&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fworldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1042816832&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:92-115"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:92_115-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:92_115-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:92_115-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:92_115-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLang2017" class="citation book cs1">Lang, Qing (2017). 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Armonk, N.Y.: Routledge, 2015. p. 27. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1317470939" title="Special:BookSources/978-1317470939"><bdi>978-1317470939</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/907525912">907525912</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Everyday+life%3A+Inside+ancient+China&rft.place=Armonk%2C+N.Y.&rft.pages=27&rft.edition=1&rft.pub=Routledge%2C+2015&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F907525912&rft.isbn=978-1317470939&rft.aulast=Croy&rft.aufirst=Anita&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F907525912&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-117"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-117">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFMa2020" class="citation book cs1">Ma, Boying (2020). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=9rnVDwAAQBAJ&q=sui+dynasty+clothing&pg=PA40"><i>History Of Medicine In Chinese Culture, A (In 2 Volumes)</i></a>. Singapore: World Scientific. p. 40. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-981-323-799-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-981-323-799-5"><bdi>978-981-323-799-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1147841857">1147841857</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=History+Of+Medicine+In+Chinese+Culture%2C+A+%28In+2+Volumes%29&rft.place=Singapore&rft.pages=40&rft.pub=World+Scientific&rft.date=2020&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1147841857&rft.isbn=978-981-323-799-5&rft.aulast=Ma&rft.aufirst=Boying&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D9rnVDwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dsui%2Bdynasty%2Bclothing%26pg%3DPA40&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:11-118"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:11_118-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:11_118-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFKa_Shing2014" class="citation journal cs1">Ka Shing, Charles (1 January 2014). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://newprairiepress.org/burgonsociety/vol14/iss1/7">"The Development of Academic Dress in China"</a>. <i>Transactions of the Burgon Society</i>. <b>14</b> (1): <span class="nowrap">60–</span>68. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<span class="id-lock-free" title="Freely accessible"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.4148%2F2475-7799.1119">10.4148/2475-7799.1119</a></span>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/2475-7799">2475-7799</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Transactions+of+the+Burgon+Society&rft.atitle=The+Development+of+Academic+Dress+in+China&rft.volume=14&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E60-%3C%2Fspan%3E68&rft.date=2014-01-01&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.4148%2F2475-7799.1119&rft.issn=2475-7799&rft.aulast=Ka+Shing&rft.aufirst=Charles&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fnewprairiepress.org%2Fburgonsociety%2Fvol14%2Fiss1%2F7&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:53-119"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:53_119-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:53_119-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:53_119-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFVollmer2007" class="citation book cs1">Vollmer, John E. 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Paris, France: Atlantis Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">352–</span>355. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2991%2Ficcessh-16.2016.90">10.2991/iccessh-16.2016.90</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-94-6252-215-2" title="Special:BookSources/978-94-6252-215-2"><bdi>978-94-6252-215-2</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=The+Implicit+Beauty+and+Open+Beauty+of+Tang+Dynasty%27s+Aesthetic+Taste+from+Tang+Dynasty+Noble+Women%27s+Clothing+Features&rft.btitle=Proceedings+of+the+2016+International+Conference+on+Contemporary+Education%2C+Social+Sciences+and+Humanities&rft.place=Paris%2C+France&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E352-%3C%2Fspan%3E355&rft.pub=Atlantis+Press&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2991%2Ficcessh-16.2016.90&rft.isbn=978-94-6252-215-2&rft.aulast=Wan&rft.aufirst=Li&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.2991%2Ficcessh-16.2016.90&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-125"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-125">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLin2018" class="citation book cs1">Lin, Lin (2018). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://dx.doi.org/10.2991/cesses-18.2018.109">"Design Comparison of Creative Tang Suit and European Imperial Costume"</a>. <i>Proceedings of the International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Ecological Studies (CESSES 2018)</i>. 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University of Hawai'i Press: <span class="nowrap">255–</span>266. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1353%2Fcri.2017.0064">10.1353/cri.2017.0064</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/26892132">26892132</a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:217042987">217042987</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=China+Review+International&rft.atitle=Changing+Clothes+in+Chang%27an&rft.volume=24&rft.issue=4&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E255-%3C%2Fspan%3E266&rft.date=2017&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A217042987%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F26892132%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1353%2Fcri.2017.0064&rft.aulast=Yang&rft.aufirst=Shao-yun&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F26892132&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:10-134"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:10_134-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:10_134-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:10_134-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChinaculture.org" class="citation news cs1">Chinaculture.org. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/life/2011-03/10/content_12150999_2.htm">"Woman's costume in the Tang Dynasty"</a>. <i>China Daily</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 93. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-295-74531-2" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-295-74531-2"><bdi>978-0-295-74531-2</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1101879641">1101879641</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Empire+of+style+%3A+silk+and+fashion+in+Tang+China&rft.place=Seattle&rft.pages=93&rft.pub=University+of+Washington+Press&rft.date=2019&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1101879641&rft.isbn=978-0-295-74531-2&rft.aulast=Chen&rft.aufirst=Buyun&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1101879641&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:125-136"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:125_136-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:125_136-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:125_136-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFXu2016" class="citation book cs1">Xu, Man (2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=t1VQDQAAQBAJ&q=tang+dynasty+veil&pg=PA72"><i>Crossing the Gate: Everyday Lives of Women in Song Fujian (960–1279)</i></a>. 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Greenwood Publishing Group. p. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/dailylifeintradi00benn/page/n133">106</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0313309558" title="Special:BookSources/0313309558"><bdi>0313309558</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/1080-4749">1080-4749</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Daily+Life+in+Traditional+China%3A+The+Tang+Dynasty&rft.series=Greenwood+Press+%22Daily+life+through+history%22+series&rft.pages=106&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Greenwood+Publishing+Group&rft.date=2002&rft.issn=1080-4749&rft.isbn=0313309558&rft.aulast=Benn&rft.aufirst=Charles+D.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Fdailylifeintradi00benn&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-中国传统服饰-141"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-中国传统服饰_141-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-中国传统服饰_141-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF臧2003" class="citation book cs1">臧, 迎春 (2003). 臧, 迎春 (ed.). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&q=tang+dynasty+veil&pg=PT17"><i>中国传统服饰</i></a>. 臧迎春, 李竹润. 五洲传播出版社. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/7508502795" title="Special:BookSources/7508502795"><bdi>7508502795</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E4%B8%AD%E5%9B%BD%E4%BC%A0%E7%BB%9F%E6%9C%8D%E9%A5%B0&rft.pub=%E4%BA%94%E6%B4%B2%E4%BC%A0%E6%92%AD%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E7%A4%BE&rft.date=2003&rft.isbn=7508502795&rft.aulast=%E8%87%A7&rft.aufirst=%E8%BF%8E%E6%98%A5&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Dm7Qf-bjLfA4C%26q%3Dtang%2Bdynasty%2Bveil%26pg%3DPT17&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-142"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-142">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDing2016" class="citation book cs1">Ding, Ying (2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/emcm-15/25849632">"The Effects of Foreign Cultures to the Women Clothes in the Tang Dynasty"</a>. <i>Proceedings of the International Conference on Electronics, Mechanics, Culture and Medicine</i>. 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Atlantis Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">497–</span>502. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2991%2Femcm-15.2016.94">10.2991/emcm-15.2016.94</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-94-6252-163-6" title="Special:BookSources/978-94-6252-163-6"><bdi>978-94-6252-163-6</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=The+Effects+of+Foreign+Cultures+to+the+Women+Clothes+in+the+Tang+Dynasty&rft.btitle=Proceedings+of+the+International+Conference+on+Electronics%2C+Mechanics%2C+Culture+and+Medicine&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E497-%3C%2Fspan%3E502&rft.pub=Atlantis+Press&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2991%2Femcm-15.2016.94&rft.isbn=978-94-6252-163-6&rft.aulast=Ding&rft.aufirst=Ying&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.atlantis-press.com%2Fproceedings%2Femcm-15%2F25849632&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:30-143"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:30_143-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFShea2020" class="citation book cs1">Shea, Eiren L. 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Routledge. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1000027891" title="Special:BookSources/978-1000027891"><bdi>978-1000027891</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Mongol+Court+Dress%2C+Identity+Formation%2C+and+Global+Exchange&rft.series=Routledge+Research+in+Art+History&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Routledge&rft.date=2020&rft.isbn=978-1000027891&rft.aulast=Shea&rft.aufirst=Eiren+L.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DM6nODwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dhairstyle%2Bkhitan%2Bhan%26pg%3DPT81&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-144"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-144">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFRussell-Smith2003" class="citation journal cs1">Russell-Smith, Lilla Bikfalvy (2003). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/23659378">"Wives and Patrons: Uygur Political and Artistic Influence in Tenth-Century Dunhuang"</a>. <i>Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae</i>. <b>56</b> (2/4): <span class="nowrap">401–</span>428. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1556%2FAOrient.56.2003.2-4.20">10.1556/AOrient.56.2003.2-4.20</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0001-6446">0001-6446</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/23659378">23659378</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Acta+Orientalia+Academiae+Scientiarum+Hungaricae&rft.atitle=Wives+and+Patrons%3A+Uygur+Political+and+Artistic+Influence+in+Tenth-Century+Dunhuang&rft.volume=56&rft.issue=2%2F4&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E401-%3C%2Fspan%3E428&rft.date=2003&rft.issn=0001-6446&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F23659378%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1556%2FAOrient.56.2003.2-4.20&rft.aulast=Russell-Smith&rft.aufirst=Lilla+Bikfalvy&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F23659378&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-145"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-145">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDardess2010" class="citation book cs1">Dardess, John W. 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Co. p. 31. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-60384-447-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-60384-447-5"><bdi>978-1-60384-447-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/669127176">669127176</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Governing+China%2C+150-1850.&rft.place=Indianapolis&rft.pages=31&rft.pub=Hackett+Pub.+Co&rft.date=2010&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F669127176&rft.isbn=978-1-60384-447-5&rft.aulast=Dardess&rft.aufirst=John+W.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F669127176&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:41-146"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-17"><sup><i><b>r</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-18"><sup><i><b>s</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-19"><sup><i><b>t</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-20"><sup><i><b>u</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-21"><sup><i><b>v</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-22"><sup><i><b>w</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-23"><sup><i><b>x</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-24"><sup><i><b>y</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-25"><sup><i><b>z</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-26"><sup><i><b>aa</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-27"><sup><i><b>ab</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-28"><sup><i><b>ac</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-29"><sup><i><b>ad</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-30"><sup><i><b>ae</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-31"><sup><i><b>af</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-32"><sup><i><b>ag</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:41_146-33"><sup><i><b>ah</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhu朱瑞熙2016" class="citation book cs1">Zhu, Ruixi; 朱瑞熙 (2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345"><i>A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties</i></a>. Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-107-16786-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-107-16786-5"><bdi>978-1-107-16786-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345">953576345</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+social+history+of+middle-period+China+%3A+the+Song%2C+Liao%2C+Western+Xia+and+Jin+dynasties&rft.place=Cambridge%2C+United+Kingdom&rft.edition=Updated&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F953576345&rft.isbn=978-1-107-16786-5&rft.aulast=Zhu&rft.aufirst=Ruixi&rft.au=%E6%9C%B1%E7%91%9E%E7%86%99&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F953576345&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:18-147"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:18_147-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:18_147-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:18_147-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:18_147-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:18_147-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28394.htm">Costume in the Song Dynasty</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20081205015611/http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28394.htm">Archived</a> 5 December 2008 at the <a href="/wiki/Wayback_Machine" title="Wayback Machine">Wayback Machine</a> chinaculture.org retrieved 7 January 2010</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:19-148"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:19_148-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:19_148-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:19_148-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:19_148-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:19_148-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHinsch2021" class="citation book cs1">Hinsch, Bret (2021). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1184122156"><i>Women in Song and Yuan China</i></a>. Lanham, Maryland. pp. <span class="nowrap">127–</span>129. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-5381-4492-3" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-5381-4492-3"><bdi>978-1-5381-4492-3</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1184122156">1184122156</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Women+in+Song+and+Yuan+China&rft.place=Lanham%2C+Maryland&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E127-%3C%2Fspan%3E129&rft.date=2021&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1184122156&rft.isbn=978-1-5381-4492-3&rft.aulast=Hinsch&rft.aufirst=Bret&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1184122156&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:32-149"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:32_149-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:32_149-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChou_XiBao2011" class="citation book cs1">Chou XiBao (2011). <i>History of Chinese Ancient Clothing</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=History+of+Chinese+Ancient+Clothing&rft.date=2011&rft.au=Chou+XiBao&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-150"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-150">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.newhanfu.com/7721.html">"Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing – Hanfu"</a>. <i>Newhanfu</i>. 2020<span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Columbia University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0231549578" title="Special:BookSources/978-0231549578"><bdi>978-0231549578</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Staging+Personhood%3A+Costuming+in+Early+Qing+Drama&rft.pub=Columbia+University+Press&rft.date=2020&rft.isbn=978-0231549578&rft.aulast=Wang&rft.aufirst=Guojun&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DOT62DwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dhairstyle%2Bkhitan%2Bhan%26pg%3DPT23&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:462-155"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:462_155-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFKuhn2000" class="citation journal cs1">Kuhn, Dieter (2000). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/4528851">"<span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"Liao Architecture": Qidan Innovations and Han-Chinese Traditions?"</a>. <i>T'oung Pao</i>. <b>86</b> (4/5): <span class="nowrap">325–</span>362. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1163%2F15685320051072744">10.1163/15685320051072744</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0082-5433">0082-5433</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/4528851">4528851</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=T%27oung+Pao&rft.atitle=%22Liao+Architecture%22%3A+Qidan+Innovations+and+Han-Chinese+Traditions%3F&rft.volume=86&rft.issue=4%2F5&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E325-%3C%2Fspan%3E362&rft.date=2000&rft.issn=0082-5433&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F4528851%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1163%2F15685320051072744&rft.aulast=Kuhn&rft.aufirst=Dieter&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F4528851&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:51-156"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:51_156-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:51_156-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFTackett2017" class="citation book cs1">Tackett, Nicolas (2017). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=oa4_DwAAQBAJ&q=hairstyle+khitan+han&pg=PA241"><i>The Origins of the Chinese Nation: Song China and the Forging of an East Asian World Order</i></a>. Cambridge University Press. p. 241. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1108186926" title="Special:BookSources/978-1108186926"><bdi>978-1108186926</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Origins+of+the+Chinese+Nation%3A+Song+China+and+the+Forging+of+an+East+Asian+World+Order&rft.pages=241&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2017&rft.isbn=978-1108186926&rft.aulast=Tackett&rft.aufirst=Nicolas&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Doa4_DwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dhairstyle%2Bkhitan%2Bhan%26pg%3DPA241&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:48-157"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:48_157-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFRorex1984" class="citation journal cs1">Rorex, Robert Albright (1984). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/3249729">"Some Liao Tomb Murals and Images of Nomads in Chinese Paintings of the Wen-Chi Story"</a>. <i>Artibus Asiae</i>. <b>45</b> (2/3): <span class="nowrap">174–</span>198. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2307%2F3249729">10.2307/3249729</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0004-3648">0004-3648</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/3249729">3249729</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Artibus+Asiae&rft.atitle=Some+Liao+Tomb+Murals+and+Images+of+Nomads+in+Chinese+Paintings+of+the+Wen-Chi+Story&rft.volume=45&rft.issue=2%2F3&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E174-%3C%2Fspan%3E198&rft.date=1984&rft.issn=0004-3648&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F3249729%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2307%2F3249729&rft.aulast=Rorex&rft.aufirst=Robert+Albright&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F3249729&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:47-159"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:47_159-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFJohnson2011" class="citation book cs1">Johnson, Linda Cooke (2011). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/794925381"><i>Women of the conquest dynasties : gender and identity in Liao and Jin China</i></a>. Honolulu: University of Hawaiʻi Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-8248-6024-0" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-8248-6024-0"><bdi>978-0-8248-6024-0</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/794925381">794925381</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Women+of+the+conquest+dynasties+%3A+gender+and+identity+in+Liao+and+Jin+China&rft.place=Honolulu&rft.pub=University+of+Hawai%CA%BBi+Press&rft.date=2011&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F794925381&rft.isbn=978-0-8248-6024-0&rft.aulast=Johnson&rft.aufirst=Linda+Cooke&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F794925381&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-160"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-160">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=3A79dyvJIkQC&q=hairstyle+kitan+haner"><i>China Review International, Volume 19</i></a>. 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title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+world+of+Khubilai+Khan+%3A+Chinese+art+in+the+Yuan+Dynasty&rft.place=New+York&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E82-%3C%2Fspan%3E83&rft.pub=Metropolitan+Museum+of+Art&rft.date=2010&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F606786260&rft.isbn=978-1-58839-402-6&rft.aulast=Watt&rft.aufirst=James+C.+Y.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F606786260&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:15-166"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:15_166-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link 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href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:149138176">149138176</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Social+Sciences+in+China&rft.atitle=A+Preliminary+Study+of+Mongol+Costumes+in+the+Ming+Dynasty&rft.volume=39&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E165-%3C%2Fspan%3E185&rft.date=2018-01-02&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A149138176%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft.issn=0252-9203&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1080%2F02529203.2018.1414417&rft.aulast=Wei&rft.aufirst=Luo&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1080%2F02529203.2018.1414417&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:25-167"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:25_167-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:25_167-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:25_167-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a 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Retrieved <span class="nowrap">4 May</span> 2016</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Culture%2C+Courtiers%2C+and+Competition+The+Ming+Court+%281368-1644%29&rft.date=2008&rft.aulast=Robinson&rft.aufirst=David&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.history.ubc.ca%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fdocuments%2Freadings%2Frobinson_culture_courtiers_ch.8.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Ming:15-171"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Ming:15_171-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28364.htm">Clothing in the Ming Dynasty</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20081205015326/http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28364.htm">Archived</a> 5 December 2008 at the <a href="/wiki/Wayback_Machine" title="Wayback Machine">Wayback Machine</a> chinaculture.org retrieved 7 January 2010</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:242-172"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:242_172-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:242_172-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChoYiKim2015" class="citation journal cs1">Cho, Woohyun; Yi, Jaeyoon; Kim, Jinyoung (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/206512781.pdf">"The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. <i>Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae</i>. <b>68</b> (3): <span class="nowrap">22–</span>29. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1556%2F062.2015.68.3.2">10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0001-6446">0001-6446</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Acta+Orientalia+Academiae+Scientiarum+Hungaricae&rft.atitle=The+dress+of+the+Mongol+Empire%3A+Genealogy+and+diaspora+of+the+Terlig&rft.volume=68&rft.issue=3&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E22-%3C%2Fspan%3E29&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1556%2F062.2015.68.3.2&rft.issn=0001-6446&rft.aulast=Cho&rft.aufirst=Woohyun&rft.au=Yi%2C+Jaeyoon&rft.au=Kim%2C+Jinyoung&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fcore.ac.uk%2Fdownload%2Fpdf%2F206512781.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><sup class="noprint Inline-Template"><span style="white-space: nowrap;">[<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Link_rot" title="Wikipedia:Link rot"><span title=" Dead link tagged September 2023">permanent dead link</span></a></i><span style="visibility:hidden; color:transparent; padding-left:2px">‍</span>]</span></sup></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:22-173"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:22_173-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:22_173-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFSchlesinger2017" class="citation book cs1">Schlesinger, Jonathan (2017). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/949669739"><i>A world trimmed with fur : wild things, pristine places, and the natural fringes of Qing rule</i></a>. Stanford, California: Stanford University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-5036-0068-3" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-5036-0068-3"><bdi>978-1-5036-0068-3</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/949669739">949669739</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+world+trimmed+with+fur+%3A+wild+things%2C+pristine+places%2C+and+the+natural+fringes+of+Qing+rule&rft.place=Stanford%2C+California&rft.pub=Stanford+University+Press&rft.date=2017&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F949669739&rft.isbn=978-1-5036-0068-3&rft.aulast=Schlesinger&rft.aufirst=Jonathan&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F949669739&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:28-174"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:28_174-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:28_174-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:28_174-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:28_174-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFWang2014" class="citation journal cs1">Wang, Chen (1 September 2014). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1179/204705814X13975704319154">"Conservation study of Ming dynasty silk costumes excavated in Jiangsu region, China"</a>. <i>Studies in Conservation</i>. <b>59</b> (sup1): <span class="nowrap">S177 –</span> <span class="nowrap">S180</span>. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1179%2F204705814X13975704319154">10.1179/204705814X13975704319154</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0039-3630">0039-3630</a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:191384101">191384101</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Studies+in+Conservation&rft.atitle=Conservation+study+of+Ming+dynasty+silk+costumes+excavated+in+Jiangsu+region%2C+China&rft.volume=59&rft.issue=sup1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3ES177+-%3C%2Fspan%3E+%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3ES180%3C%2Fspan%3E&rft.date=2014-09-01&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A191384101%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft.issn=0039-3630&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1179%2F204705814X13975704319154&rft.aulast=Wang&rft.aufirst=Chen&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1179%2F204705814X13975704319154&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:79-175"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:79_175-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:79_175-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:79_175-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFWeststeijnGesterkamp2016" class="citation journal cs1">Weststeijn, Thijs; Gesterkamp, Lennert (22 October 2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://brill.com/view/journals/nkjo/66/1/article-p142_7.xml">"A new identity for Rubens's 'Korean man': Portrait of the Chinese merchant Yppong"</a>. <i>Netherlands Yearbook for History of Art / Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek Online</i>. <b>66</b> (1): <span class="nowrap">142–</span>169. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1163%2F22145966-90000784">10.1163/22145966-90000784</a>. <a href="/wiki/Hdl_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Hdl (identifier)">hdl</a>:<span class="id-lock-free" title="Freely accessible"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://hdl.handle.net/1874%2F350837">1874/350837</a></span>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/2214-5966">2214-5966</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Netherlands+Yearbook+for+History+of+Art+%2F+Nederlands+Kunsthistorisch+Jaarboek+Online&rft.atitle=A+new+identity+for+Rubens%27s+%27Korean+man%27%3A+Portrait+of+the+Chinese+merchant+Yppong&rft.volume=66&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E142-%3C%2Fspan%3E169&rft.date=2016-10-22&rft_id=info%3Ahdl%2F1874%2F350837&rft.issn=2214-5966&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1163%2F22145966-90000784&rft.aulast=Weststeijn&rft.aufirst=Thijs&rft.au=Gesterkamp%2C+Lennert&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbrill.com%2Fview%2Fjournals%2Fnkjo%2F66%2F1%2Farticle-p142_7.xml&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:29-176"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:29_176-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:29_176-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHaoYin2020" class="citation book cs1">Hao, Xiao’ang; Yin, Zhihong (7 September 2020). "Research on Design Aesthetics and Cultural Connotation of Gold and Silver Interlocking Buckle in the Ming Dynasty". <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-20/125944399"><i>Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2020)</i></a>. Atlantis Press. pp. <span class="nowrap">166–</span>171. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2991%2Fassehr.k.200907.030">10.2991/assehr.k.200907.030</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-94-6239-051-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-94-6239-051-5"><bdi>978-94-6239-051-5</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:221756137">221756137</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Research+on+Design+Aesthetics+and+Cultural+Connotation+of+Gold+and+Silver+Interlocking+Buckle+in+the+Ming+Dynasty&rft.btitle=Proceedings+of+the+4th+International+Conference+on+Art+Studies%3A+Science%2C+Experience%2C+Education+%28ICASSEE+2020%29&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E166-%3C%2Fspan%3E171&rft.pub=Atlantis+Press&rft.date=2020-09-07&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A221756137%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2991%2Fassehr.k.200907.030&rft.isbn=978-94-6239-051-5&rft.aulast=Hao&rft.aufirst=Xiao%E2%80%99ang&rft.au=Yin%2C+Zhihong&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.atlantis-press.com%2Fproceedings%2Ficassee-20%2F125944399&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:104-177"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-17"><sup><i><b>r</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-18"><sup><i><b>s</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-19"><sup><i><b>t</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-20"><sup><i><b>u</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-21"><sup><i><b>v</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-22"><sup><i><b>w</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-23"><sup><i><b>x</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-24"><sup><i><b>y</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-25"><sup><i><b>z</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-26"><sup><i><b>aa</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-27"><sup><i><b>ab</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-28"><sup><i><b>ac</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-29"><sup><i><b>ad</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-30"><sup><i><b>ae</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-31"><sup><i><b>af</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-32"><sup><i><b>ag</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-33"><sup><i><b>ah</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-34"><sup><i><b>ai</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-35"><sup><i><b>aj</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-36"><sup><i><b>ak</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-37"><sup><i><b>al</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-38"><sup><i><b>am</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-39"><sup><i><b>an</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-40"><sup><i><b>ao</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-41"><sup><i><b>ap</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-42"><sup><i><b>aq</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-43"><sup><i><b>ar</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-44"><sup><i><b>as</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:104_177-45"><sup><i><b>at</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFGarrett2007" class="citation book cs1">Garrett, Valery M. 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Tokyo: Tuttle Pub. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-8048-3663-0" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-8048-3663-0"><bdi>978-0-8048-3663-0</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/154701513">154701513</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Chinese+dress+%3A+from+the+Qing+Dynasty+to+the+Present&rft.place=Tokyo&rft.pub=Tuttle+Pub&rft.date=2007&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F154701513&rft.isbn=978-0-8048-3663-0&rft.aulast=Garrett&rft.aufirst=Valery+M.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F154701513&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-178"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-178">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=YtFuAAAAMAAJ&q=Month+hair+"><i>The Vietnam Review: VR., Volume 3</i></a>. Vietnam Review. 1997. p. 35.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Vietnam+Review%3A+VR.%2C+Volume+3&rft.pages=35&rft.pub=Vietnam+Review&rft.date=1997&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DYtFuAAAAMAAJ%26q%3DMonth%2Bhair%2B&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-179"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-179">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFBaldanza2016" class="citation book cs1">Baldanza, Kathlene (2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=MAXFDAAAQBAJ&q=vietnam+long++hair+barbarians&pg=PA110"><i>Ming China and Vietnam: Negotiating Borders in Early Modern Asia</i></a>. Cambridge University Press. p. 110. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1316531310" title="Special:BookSources/978-1316531310"><bdi>978-1316531310</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Ming+China+and+Vietnam%3A+Negotiating+Borders+in+Early+Modern+Asia&rft.pages=110&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2016&rft.isbn=978-1316531310&rft.aulast=Baldanza&rft.aufirst=Kathlene&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DMAXFDAAAQBAJ%26q%3Dvietnam%2Blong%2B%2Bhair%2Bbarbarians%26pg%3DPA110&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-180"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-180">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDuttonWernerWhitmore2012" class="citation book cs1">Dutton, George; Werner, Jayne; Whitmore, John K., eds. (2012). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=ZHD4Asj0FagC&q=vietnam+long++hair+barbarians&pg=PA87"><i>Sources of Vietnamese Tradition</i></a>. Introduction to Asian Civilizations (illustrated ed.). Columbia University Press. p. 87. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0231511100" title="Special:BookSources/978-0231511100"><bdi>978-0231511100</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Sources+of+Vietnamese+Tradition&rft.series=Introduction+to+Asian+Civilizations&rft.pages=87&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Columbia+University+Press&rft.date=2012&rft.isbn=978-0231511100&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DZHD4Asj0FagC%26q%3Dvietnam%2Blong%2B%2Bhair%2Bbarbarians%26pg%3DPA87&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-181"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-181">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChanda1986" class="citation book cs1">Chanda, Nayan (1986). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=dW1uAAAAMAAJ&q=vietnam+long+hair+barbarians"><i>Brother Enemy: The War After the War</i></a> (illustrated ed.). Harcourt Brace Jovanovich. pp. 53, 111. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780151144204" title="Special:BookSources/9780151144204"><bdi>9780151144204</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Brother+Enemy%3A+The+War+After+the+War&rft.pages=53%2C+111&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Harcourt+Brace+Jovanovich&rft.date=1986&rft.isbn=9780151144204&rft.aulast=Chanda&rft.aufirst=Nayan&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DdW1uAAAAMAAJ%26q%3Dvietnam%2Blong%2Bhair%2Bbarbarians&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-182"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-182">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChandler2018" class="citation book cs1">Chandler, David (2018). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=xZSpDwAAQBAJ&q=vietnam+cropped+hair+barbarians&pg=PA153"><i>A History of Cambodia</i></a> (4 ed.). Routledge. p. 153. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0429964060" title="Special:BookSources/978-0429964060"><bdi>978-0429964060</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+History+of+Cambodia&rft.pages=153&rft.edition=4&rft.pub=Routledge&rft.date=2018&rft.isbn=978-0429964060&rft.aulast=Chandler&rft.aufirst=David&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DxZSpDwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dvietnam%2Bcropped%2Bhair%2Bbarbarians%26pg%3DPA153&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Gu_Fanying-183"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Gu_Fanying_183-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF顧凡穎2018" class="citation book cs1">顧凡穎 (2018). <i>歷史的衣櫥</i>. 北京日報出版社.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E6%AD%B7%E5%8F%B2%E7%9A%84%E8%A1%A3%E6%AB%A5&rft.pub=%E5%8C%97%E4%BA%AC%E6%97%A5%E5%A0%B1%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E7%A4%BE&rft.date=2018&rft.au=%E9%A1%A7%E5%87%A1%E7%A9%8E&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:98-184"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:98_184-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:98_184-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:98_184-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:98_184-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:98_184-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDusenburyBier2004" class="citation book cs1">Dusenbury, Mary M.; Bier, Carol (2004). Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art (ed.). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=566AlluiHT0C&q=wanli+magistrates+attire+prototypes&pg=PA103"><i>Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art</i></a> (illustrated ed.). Hudson Hills. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/1555952380" title="Special:BookSources/1555952380"><bdi>1555952380</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Flowers%2C+Dragons+%26+Pine+Trees%3A+Asian+Textiles+in+the+Spencer+Museum+of+Art&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Hudson+Hills&rft.date=2004&rft.isbn=1555952380&rft.aulast=Dusenbury&rft.aufirst=Mary+M.&rft.au=Bier%2C+Carol&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D566AlluiHT0C%26q%3Dwanli%2Bmagistrates%2Battire%2Bprototypes%26pg%3DPA103&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-185"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-185">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFForsyth1994" class="citation book cs1">Forsyth, James (1994). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=nzhq85nPrdsC&pg=PA214"><i>A History of the Peoples of Siberia: Russia's North Asian Colony 1581–1990</i></a> (illustrated, reprint, revised ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 214. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0521477719" title="Special:BookSources/0521477719"><bdi>0521477719</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+History+of+the+Peoples+of+Siberia%3A+Russia%27s+North+Asian+Colony+1581%E2%80%931990&rft.pages=214&rft.edition=illustrated%2C+reprint%2C+revised&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=1994&rft.isbn=0521477719&rft.aulast=Forsyth&rft.aufirst=James&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Dnzhq85nPrdsC%26pg%3DPA214&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Liu_Fei-186"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Liu_Fei_186-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF劉菲2017" class="citation book cs1">劉菲 (2017). <i>清前期皇室及貴族服飾研究</i>. 山東大學出版社.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E6%B8%85%E5%89%8D%E6%9C%9F%E7%9A%87%E5%AE%A4%E5%8F%8A%E8%B2%B4%E6%97%8F%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6&rft.pub=%E5%B1%B1%E6%9D%B1%E5%A4%A7%E5%AD%B8%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E7%A4%BE&rft.date=2017&rft.au=%E5%8A%89%E8%8F%B2&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:52-187"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:52_187-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:52_187-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:52_187-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:52_187-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFKeliher2020" class="citation book cs1">Keliher, Macabe (2020). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1090283580"><i>The Board of Rites and the making of Qing China</i></a>. Oakland, California. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-520-97176-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-520-97176-9"><bdi>978-0-520-97176-9</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1090283580">1090283580</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Board+of+Rites+and+the+making+of+Qing+China&rft.place=Oakland%2C+California&rft.date=2020&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1090283580&rft.isbn=978-0-520-97176-9&rft.aulast=Keliher&rft.aufirst=Macabe&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.worldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1090283580&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-188"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-188">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF梁啟超1989" class="citation book cs1">梁啟超 (1989). <i>飲冰室合集·論不變法之害</i>. 中華書局. <q>上觀百世,下觀百世,經世大法,惟本朝為善變。入關之初,即下剃髮之令,頂戴翎枝,端罩馬褂,古無有也,則變服色矣。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E9%A3%B2%E5%86%B0%E5%AE%A4%E5%90%88%E9%9B%86%C2%B7%E8%AB%96%E4%B8%8D%E8%AE%8A%E6%B3%95%E4%B9%8B%E5%AE%B3&rft.pub=%E4%B8%AD%E8%8F%AF%E6%9B%B8%E5%B1%80&rft.date=1989&rft.au=%E6%A2%81%E5%95%9F%E8%B6%85&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-189"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-189">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF章太炎1996" class="citation book cs1">章太炎 (1996). <i>中國現代學術經典.章太炎卷.訄書.訂礼俗第五十一</i>. 河北教育出版社. <q>滿洲之服,其筩袖鎧之緒也。軍容入國,以便趨走,亡咎。若其右方重衽,溫暖不均。於左削袂上起而合手者,如拼矣。嬰絡以效桑門,絳繩以被氈笠,比是觀之,將相驚以精鬽。物極而移,異服者眾,猶曰西服者,苟以隨時。諸解辮有常刑,幸其若是,胡漢猶彌以相惡。蒙古朝祭以冠幞,私燕以質孫,胡服隱也。滿洲遊學以短衣,常居以嬰絳,胡服箸也。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E7%8F%BE%E4%BB%A3%E5%AD%B8%E8%A1%93%E7%B6%93%E5%85%B8%EF%BC%8E%E7%AB%A0%E5%A4%AA%E7%82%8E%E5%8D%B7%EF%BC%8E%E8%A8%84%E6%9B%B8%EF%BC%8E%E8%A8%82%E7%A4%BC%E4%BF%97%E7%AC%AC%E4%BA%94%E5%8D%81%E4%B8%80&rft.pub=%E6%B2%B3%E5%8C%97%E6%95%99%E8%82%B2%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E7%A4%BE&rft.date=1996&rft.au=%E7%AB%A0%E5%A4%AA%E7%82%8E&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-190"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-190">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFChung2005" class="citation book cs1">Chung, Young Yang Chung (2005). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=ND3rAAAAMAAJ&q=chao+fu+codified+modified+attire"><i>Silken threads: a history of embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam</i></a> (illustrated ed.). Harry N. Abrams. p. 148. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780810943308" title="Special:BookSources/9780810943308"><bdi>9780810943308</bdi></a><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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China Heritage Project, ANU College of Asia & the Pacific (CAP), The Australian National University. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/1833-8461">1833-8461</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=China+Heritage+Quarterly&rft.atitle=The+End+of+the+Queue%3A+Hair+as+Symbol+in+Chinese+History&rft.issue=27&rft.date=2011-09&rft.issn=1833-8461&rft.aulast=Godley&rft.aufirst=Michael+R.&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinaheritagequarterly.org%2Ffeatures.php%3Fsearchterm%3D027_queue.inc%26issue%3D027&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-194"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-194">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFForsyth1994" class="citation book cs1">Forsyth, James (1994). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=nzhq85nPrdsC&dq=nanai+shave&pg=PA217"><i>A History of the Peoples of Siberia: Russia's North Asian Colony 1581-1990</i></a> (illustrated, reprint, revised ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 217. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0521477719" title="Special:BookSources/0521477719"><bdi>0521477719</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=A+History+of+the+Peoples+of+Siberia%3A+Russia%27s+North+Asian+Colony+1581-1990&rft.pages=217&rft.edition=illustrated%2C+reprint%2C+revised&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=1994&rft.isbn=0521477719&rft.aulast=Forsyth&rft.aufirst=James&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Dnzhq85nPrdsC%26dq%3Dnanai%2Bshave%26pg%3DPA217&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-195"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-195">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFMajewicz2011" class="citation book cs1">Majewicz, Alfred F., ed. 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(1985). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=8nXLwSG2O8AC&dq=sun+queue+order+dorgon&pg=PA868"><i>The Great Enterprise: The Manchu Reconstruction of Imperial Order in Seventeenth-century China, Volume 1</i></a>. Vol. 2 of Great Enterprise (illustrated ed.). University of California Press, l. p. 868. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0520048040" title="Special:BookSources/0520048040"><bdi>0520048040</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Great+Enterprise%3A+The+Manchu+Reconstruction+of+Imperial+Order+in+Seventeenth-century+China%2C+Volume+1&rft.pages=868&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=University+of+California+Press%2C+l&rft.date=1985&rft.isbn=0520048040&rft.aulast=Wakeman&rft.aufirst=Frederic+E.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D8nXLwSG2O8AC%26dq%3Dsun%2Bqueue%2Border%2Bdorgon%26pg%3DPA868&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-199"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-199">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFLui1989" class="citation book cs1">Lui, Adam Yuen-chung (1989). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=OtJwAAAAMAAJ&q=sun+queue+order+dorgon"><i>Two Rulers in One Reign: Dorgon and Shun-chih, 1644-1660</i></a>. Faculty of Asian Studies monographs // The Australian National University (illustrated ed.). Faculty of Asian Studies, Australian National University. p. 37. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0731506545" title="Special:BookSources/0731506545"><bdi>0731506545</bdi></a>. <q>Dorgon did not want to see anything go wrong in a province and this might be the main reason why the government ... When the Chinese were ordered to wear the queue, Sun and Li took the initiative in changing their Ming hairstyle to ...</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Two+Rulers+in+One+Reign%3A+Dorgon+and+Shun-chih%2C+1644-1660&rft.series=Faculty+of+Asian+Studies+monographs+%2F%2F+The+Australian+National+University&rft.pages=37&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Faculty+of+Asian+Studies%2C+Australian+National+University&rft.date=1989&rft.isbn=0731506545&rft.aulast=Lui&rft.aufirst=Adam+Yuen-chung&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DOtJwAAAAMAAJ%26q%3Dsun%2Bqueue%2Border%2Bdorgon&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-200"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-200">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDwyer2007" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-long-vol">Dwyer, Arienne M. (2007). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=ciShtCrJijIC&dq=salar+men+shaved&pg=PA22"><i>Salar: A Study in Inner Asian Language Contact Processes, Part 1</i></a>. Vol. 37 of Turcologica Series (illustrated ed.). Otto Harrassowitz Verlag. p. 22. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3447040914" title="Special:BookSources/978-3447040914"><bdi>978-3447040914</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Salar%3A+A+Study+in+Inner+Asian+Language+Contact+Processes%2C+Part+1&rft.pages=22&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Otto+Harrassowitz+Verlag&rft.date=2007&rft.isbn=978-3447040914&rft.aulast=Dwyer&rft.aufirst=Arienne+M.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DciShtCrJijIC%26dq%3Dsalar%2Bmen%2Bshaved%26pg%3DPA22&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:49-201"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:49_201-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFRhoads2000" class="citation book cs1">Rhoads, Edward J. 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BRILL. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-9004393516" title="Special:BookSources/978-9004393516"><bdi>978-9004393516</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Engaging+the+Other%3A+%27Japan%27+and+Its+Alter-Egos%2C+1550%E2%80%931850&rft.series=Brill%27s+Japanese+Studies+Library&rft.pub=BRILL&rft.date=2019&rft.isbn=978-9004393516&rft.aulast=Toby&rft.aufirst=Ron+P.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DdZGFDwAAQBAJ%26q%3Dtonsorial%2Bdifference%2B%2Bedo%26pg%3DPA217&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-204"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-204">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFTrần_Quang_Đức2013" class="citation book cs1">Trần Quang Đức (2013). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20210707174516/http://vannghiep.vn/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Ng%C3%A0n-n%C4%83m-%C3%A1o-m%C5%A9.pdf"><i>Ngàn năm áo mũ</i></a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. Nhã Nam. p. 31. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://vannghiep.vn/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Ng%C3%A0n-n%C4%83m-%C3%A1o-m%C5%A9.pdf">the original</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span> on 7 July 2021<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">1 January</span> 2018</span>. <q><span title="Chinese-language text"><span lang="zh-Hant">清朝承平日久…唯衣服之製度不改,滿俗終乏雅觀…自清朝入帝中國,四方薙髮變服,二百年來,人已慣耳目[…]不曾又識初來華夏樣矣。我國使部來京,穿戴品服,識者亦有竊羨華風,然其不智者,多群然笑異,見襆頭網巾衣帶,便皆指為倡優樣格,胡俗之移人,一至浩歎如此</span></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Ng%C3%A0n+n%C4%83m+%C3%A1o+m%C5%A9&rft.pages=31&rft.pub=Nh%C3%A3+Nam&rft.date=2013&rft.au=Tr%E1%BA%A7n+Quang+%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fvannghiep.vn%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F09%2FNg%25C3%25A0n-n%25C4%2583m-%25C3%25A1o-m%25C5%25A9.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:43-205"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:43_205-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFWang2019" class="citation journal cs1">Wang, Guojun (2019). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://muse.jhu.edu/article/759116">"Absent Presence: Costuming and Identity in the Qing Drama A Ten-Thousand Li Reunion"</a>. <i>Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies</i>. <b>79</b> (<span class="nowrap">1–</span>2): <span class="nowrap">97–</span>130. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1353%2Fjas.2019.0005">10.1353/jas.2019.0005</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/1944-6454">1944-6454</a>. <a href="/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="S2CID (identifier)">S2CID</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:228163567">228163567</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Harvard+Journal+of+Asiatic+Studies&rft.atitle=Absent+Presence%3A+Costuming+and+Identity+in+the+Qing+Drama+A+Ten-Thousand+Li+Reunion&rft.volume=79&rft.issue=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E1%E2%80%93%3C%2Fspan%3E2&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E97-%3C%2Fspan%3E130&rft.date=2019&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fapi.semanticscholar.org%2FCorpusID%3A228163567%23id-name%3DS2CID&rft.issn=1944-6454&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.1353%2Fjas.2019.0005&rft.aulast=Wang&rft.aufirst=Guojun&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fmuse.jhu.edu%2Farticle%2F759116&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Doolittle1876-206"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Doolittle1876_206-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Doolittle1876_206-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFJustus_Doolittle1876" class="citation book cs1">Justus Doolittle (1876). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=We3NAAAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA241"><i>Social Life of the Chinese: With Some Account of Their Religious, Governmental, Educational, and Business Customs and Opinions. 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Harpers. pp. <span class="nowrap">241–</span>246.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Social+Life+of+the+Chinese%3A+With+Some+Account+of+Their+Religious%2C+Governmental%2C+Educational%2C+and+Business+Customs+and+Opinions.+With+Special+But+Not+Exclusive+Reference+to+Fuhchau&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E241-%3C%2Fspan%3E246&rft.pub=Harpers&rft.date=1876&rft.au=Justus+Doolittle&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DWe3NAAAAMAAJ%26pg%3DRA1-PA241&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-207"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-207">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFMeyer-Fong2013" class="citation book cs1">Meyer-Fong, Tobie (2013). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=IyD00vXZlfkC&q=As+Philip+Kuhn+points+out+in+a+book+centered+on+a+case+of+queue-clipping%2C+the+tonsure+decree+was%2C+and+remained%2C+%E2%80%9Ca+touchstone+whereby+the+Throne+tested+its+servants.%E2%80%9D+Kuhn+further+identifies+shaving+of+the+forehead%2C+not+retention+of+the+braid%2C+as+the+key+site+of+political+and+emotional+contention%2C+even+as+he+points+to+a+general+sensitivity+about+hair+and+its+purported+magical+powers.&pg=PA83"><i>What Remains: Coming to Terms with Civil War in 19th Century China</i></a> (illustrated ed.). Stanford University Press. p. 83. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0804785594" title="Special:BookSources/978-0804785594"><bdi>978-0804785594</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=What+Remains%3A+Coming+to+Terms+with+Civil+War+in+19th+Century+China&rft.pages=83&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Stanford+University+Press&rft.date=2013&rft.isbn=978-0804785594&rft.aulast=Meyer-Fong&rft.aufirst=Tobie&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DIyD00vXZlfkC%26q%3DAs%2BPhilip%2BKuhn%2Bpoints%2Bout%2Bin%2Ba%2Bbook%2Bcentered%2Bon%2Ba%2Bcase%2Bof%2Bqueue-clipping%252C%2Bthe%2Btonsure%2Bdecree%2Bwas%252C%2Band%2Bremained%252C%2B%25E2%2580%259Ca%2Btouchstone%2Bwhereby%2Bthe%2BThrone%2Btested%2Bits%2Bservants.%25E2%2580%259D%2BKuhn%2Bfurther%2Bidentifies%2Bshaving%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bforehead%252C%2Bnot%2Bretention%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bbraid%252C%2Bas%2Bthe%2Bkey%2Bsite%2Bof%2Bpolitical%2Band%2Bemotional%2Bcontention%252C%2Beven%2Bas%2Bhe%2Bpoints%2Bto%2Ba%2Bgeneral%2Bsensitivity%2Babout%2Bhair%2Band%2Bits%2Bpurported%2Bmagical%2Bpowers.%26pg%3DPA83&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:38-208"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:38_208-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:38_208-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:38_208-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:38_208-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHang2016" class="citation book cs1">Hang, Xing (2016). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://worldcat.org/oclc/1021375081"><i>Conflict and commerce in maritime East Asia : the Zheng family and the shaping of the modern world, c. 1620-1720</i></a>. Cambridge University Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1316453841" title="Special:BookSources/978-1316453841"><bdi>978-1316453841</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/1021375081">1021375081</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Conflict+and+commerce+in+maritime+East+Asia+%3A+the+Zheng+family+and+the+shaping+of+the+modern+world%2C+c.+1620-1720.&rft.pub=Cambridge+University+Press&rft.date=2016&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F1021375081&rft.isbn=978-1316453841&rft.aulast=Hang&rft.aufirst=Xing&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fworldcat.org%2Foclc%2F1021375081&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-209"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-209">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFGuo_DanYouzhou_Zhang1995" class="citation book cs1">Guo Dan; Youzhou Zhang (1995). <i>客家服饰文化</i>. 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Zhonghua Book Company. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9787101003932" title="Special:BookSources/9787101003932"><bdi>9787101003932</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=History+of+the+Taiping+Heavenly+Kingdom&rft.pub=Zhonghua+Book+Company&rft.date=1991&rft.isbn=9787101003932&rft.aulast=Luo&rft.aufirst=Ergang&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:123-212"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:123_212-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:123_212-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFKimCho2015" class="citation journal cs1">Kim, Sun; Cho, Woo Hyun (30 June 2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201521052964301.page">"Ideological symbols of Heavenly Kingdom's Dress"</a>. <i>International Journal of Costume and Fashion</i>. <b>15</b> (1): <span class="nowrap">39–</span>49. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.7233%2Fijcf.2015.15.1.039">10.7233/ijcf.2015.15.1.039</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/2233-9051">2233-9051</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=International+Journal+of+Costume+and+Fashion&rft.atitle=Ideological+symbols+of+Heavenly+Kingdom%27s+Dress&rft.volume=15&rft.issue=1&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E39-%3C%2Fspan%3E49&rft.date=2015-06-30&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.7233%2Fijcf.2015.15.1.039&rft.issn=2233-9051&rft.aulast=Kim&rft.aufirst=Sun&rft.au=Cho%2C+Woo+Hyun&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.koreascience.or.kr%2Farticle%2FJAKO201521052964301.page&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-213"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-213">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFDaphne_Pi-Wei_Lei2006" class="citation book cs1">Daphne Pi-Wei Lei (2006). <i>Operatic China; Staging Chinese Identity Across the Pacific</i>. 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SUNY Press. 1998. p. 137. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0791437418" title="Special:BookSources/0791437418"><bdi>0791437418</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Hair%3A+Its+Power+and+Meaning+in+Asian+Cultures&rft.pages=137&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=SUNY+Press&rft.date=1998&rft.isbn=0791437418&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DPRPymT12c40C%26pg%3DPA137&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Gulik2010-219"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Gulik2010_219-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFRobert_van_Gulik2010" class="citation book cs1">Robert van Gulik (15 November 2010). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=ChdDYCc2smwC&pg=PA174"><i>Poets and Murder: A Judge Dee Mystery</i></a>. University of Chicago Press. p. 174. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-226-84896-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-226-84896-9"><bdi>978-0-226-84896-9</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Poets+and+Murder%3A+A+Judge+Dee+Mystery&rft.pages=174&rft.pub=University+of+Chicago+Press&rft.date=2010-11-15&rft.isbn=978-0-226-84896-9&rft.au=Robert+van+Gulik&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DChdDYCc2smwC%26pg%3DPA174&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-220"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-220">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=dj9uAAAAMAAJ&q=Revd+Doolittle+discovered+that+Taoist+priests+dared+to+leave+their+hair+long,+and+rather+than+braiding+it,+massed+it+on+the+top+of+the+head.+Anothe"><i>East Asian History</i></a>. Institute of Advanced Studies, Australian National University. 1994. p. 63.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=East+Asian+History&rft.pages=63&rft.pub=Institute+of+Advanced+Studies%2C+Australian+National+University&rft.date=1994&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3Ddj9uAAAAMAAJ%26q%3DRevd%2BDoolittle%2Bdiscovered%2Bthat%2BTaoist%2Bpriests%2Bdared%2Bto%2Bleave%2Btheir%2Bhair%2Blong%2C%2Band%2Brather%2Bthan%2Bbraiding%2Bit%2C%2Bmassed%2Bit%2Bon%2Bthe%2Btop%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bhead.%2BAnothe&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-221"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-221">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFBai2003" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-long-vol">Bai, Qianshen (2003). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=TrQYAAAAYAAJ&q=disguise+priest"><i>Fu Shan's World: The Transformation of Chinese Calligraphy in the Seventeenth Century</i></a>. 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Harvard University Asia Center. p. 85. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0674010922" title="Special:BookSources/0674010922"><bdi>0674010922</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISSN (identifier)">ISSN</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/issn/0073-0483">0073-0483</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Fu+Shan%27s+World%3A+The+Transformation+of+Chinese+Calligraphy+in+the+Seventeenth+Century&rft.pages=85&rft.edition=illustrated&rft.pub=Harvard+University+Asia+Center&rft.date=2003&rft.issn=0073-0483&rft.isbn=0674010922&rft.aulast=Bai&rft.aufirst=Qianshen&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DTrQYAAAAYAAJ%26q%3Ddisguise%2Bpriest&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-222"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-222">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREF周2002" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script">周, 锡保 (1 January 2002). <bdi lang="zh">《中国古代服饰史》</bdi>. 中国戏剧出版社. p. 449. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/9787104003595" title="Special:BookSources/9787104003595"><bdi>9787104003595</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E3%80%8A%E4%B8%AD%E5%9B%BD%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%A3%E6%9C%8D%E9%A5%B0%E5%8F%B2%E3%80%8B&rft.pages=449&rft.pub=%E4%B8%AD%E5%9B%BD%E6%88%8F%E5%89%A7%E5%87%BA%E7%89%88%E7%A4%BE&rft.date=2002-01-01&rft.isbn=9787104003595&rft.aulast=%E5%91%A8&rft.aufirst=%E9%94%A1%E4%BF%9D&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span>.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-223"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-223">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://mnk.pl/collection/the-collection-of-chinese-clothing-from-the-qing-dynasty">"The collection of Chinese clothing from the Qing Dynasty – National Museum in Krakow"</a>. <i>mnk.pl</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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"Analysis on Evolution, Design and Application of Women's Traditional Coats in Beijing in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China: Based on the Collection of Ethnic Custom Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology". <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icadce-20/125950848"><i>Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on Arts, Design and Contemporary Education (ICADCE 2020)</i></a>. 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href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B72"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>显宗遂就大业,初服旒冕,衣裳文章,赤舄絇屦,以祠天地,养三老五更于三雍,于时致治平矣。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fwiki%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B72&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span> <p><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"2". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q><span class="cs1-kern-left"></span>"二年春正月辛未,宗祀光武皇帝於明堂,帝及公卿列侯始服冠冕、衣裳、玉佩、絇屨以行事</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=2&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span> </p> </span></li> <li id="cite_note-:3-79"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:3_79-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>古者有冠無幘,其戴也,加首有頍,所以安物。故詩曰「有頍者弁」,此之謂也。三代之世,法制滋彰,下至戰國,文武並用。秦雄諸侯,乃加其武將首飾為絳袙,以表貴賤,其後稍稍作顏題。漢興,續其顏,卻摞之,施巾連題,卻覆之,今喪幘是其制也。名之曰幘。幘者,賾也,頭首嚴賾也。至孝文乃高顏題,續之為耳,崇其巾為屋,合後施收,上下群臣貴賤皆服之。文者長耳,武者短耳,稱其冠也。尚書幘收,方三寸,名曰納言,示以忠正,顯近職也。迎氣五郊,各如其色,從章服也。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:4-81"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:4_81-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>皁衣群吏春服青幘,立夏乃止,助微順氣,尊其方也。武吏常赤幘,成其威也。未冠童子幘無屋者,示未成人也。入學小童幘也句卷屋者,示尚幼少,未遠冒也。喪幘卻摞,反本禮也。升數如冠,與冠偕也。期喪起耳有收,素幘亦如之,禮輕重有制,變除從漸,文也。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:5-82"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:5_82-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>武冠,俗谓之大冠,环缨无蕤,以青系为绲,加双鹖尾,竖左右,为鹖冠云"<span class="cs1-kern-right"></span></q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:6-84"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:6_84-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>进贤冠,古缁布冠也,文儒者之服也。前高七寸,后高三寸,长八寸。公侯三梁,中二千石以下至博士两梁,自博士以下至小史私学弟子,皆一梁。宗室刘氏亦两梁冠,示加服也。</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:7-89"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:7_89-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite class="citation book cs1">"120". <a class="external text" href="https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120"><i>Book of Later Han</i></a>. <q>步摇以黄金为山题,贯白珠为桂枝相缪...</q></cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=120&rft.btitle=Book+of+Later+Han&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fzh.wikisource.org%2Fzh-hans%2F%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%25BC%25A2%25E6%259B%25B8%2F%25E5%258D%25B7120&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Bibliography">Bibliography</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=51" title="Edit section: Bibliography"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHua2004" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script">Hua, Mei (華梅) (2004). <bdi lang="zh">【古代服飾】</bdi> [<i>Ancient Costume</i>]. Beijing: Wenmu Chubanshe. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-7-5010-1472-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-7-5010-1472-9"><bdi>978-7-5010-1472-9</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E3%80%90%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%A3%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E3%80%91&rft.place=Beijing&rft.pub=Wenmu+Chubanshe&rft.date=2004&rft.isbn=978-7-5010-1472-9&rft.aulast=Hua&rft.aufirst=Mei+%28%E8%8F%AF%E6%A2%85%29&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFHuangChen1999" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script">Huang, Nengfu (黃能馥); Chen, Juanjuan (陳娟娟) (1999). <bdi lang="zh">【中華歷代服飾藝術】</bdi> [<i>The Art of Chinese Clothing Through the Ages</i>]. Beijing.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E3%80%90%E4%B8%AD%E8%8F%AF%E6%AD%B7%E4%BB%A3%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E8%97%9D%E8%A1%93%E3%80%91&rft.place=Beijing&rft.date=1999&rft.aulast=Huang&rft.aufirst=Nengfu+%28%E9%BB%83%E8%83%BD%E9%A6%A5%29&rft.au=Chen%2C+Juanjuan+%28%E9%99%B3%E5%A8%9F%E5%A8%9F%29&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/wiki/Template:Cite_book" title="Template:Cite book">cite book</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (<a href="/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher" title="Category:CS1 maint: location missing publisher">link</a>)</span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFShen2006" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script"><a href="/wiki/Shen_Congwen" title="Shen Congwen">Shen, Congwen</a> (2006). <span class="id-lock-registration" title="Free registration required"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/zhongguogudaifus0000shen"><i>Zhongguo gu dai fu shi yan jiu</i> <bdi lang="zh">【中國古代服飾研究】</bdi></a></span> [<i>Researches on Ancient Chinese Costumes</i>]. Shanghai: Shanghai Century Publishing Group. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-7-80678-329-0" title="Special:BookSources/978-7-80678-329-0"><bdi>978-7-80678-329-0</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Zhongguo+gu+dai+fu+shi+yan+jiu+%E3%80%90%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%A3%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E7%A0%94%E7%A9%B6%E3%80%91&rft.place=Shanghai&rft.pub=Shanghai+Century+Publishing+Group&rft.date=2006&rft.isbn=978-7-80678-329-0&rft.aulast=Shen&rft.aufirst=Congwen&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Fzhongguogudaifus0000shen&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFXu1991" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script">Xu, Jialu (許嘉璐) (1991). <bdi lang="zh">【中國古代禮俗辭典】</bdi> [<i>Dictionary of Rituals and Customs of Ancient China</i>].</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E3%80%90%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%A3%E7%A6%AE%E4%BF%97%E8%BE%AD%E5%85%B8%E3%80%91&rft.date=1991&rft.aulast=Xu&rft.aufirst=Jialu+%28%E8%A8%B1%E5%98%89%E7%92%90%29&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhang2015" class="citation book cs1">Zhang, Qizhi (2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=1QhJCAAAQBAJ"><i>An introduction to Chinese history and culture</i></a>. Heidelberg: Heidelberg Springer. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-662-46482-3" title="Special:BookSources/978-3-662-46482-3"><bdi>978-3-662-46482-3</bdi></a>. <a href="/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="OCLC (identifier)">OCLC</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://search.worldcat.org/oclc/909065833">909065833</a><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">4 February</span> 2021</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=An+introduction+to+Chinese+history+and+culture&rft.place=Heidelberg&rft.pub=Heidelberg+Springer&rft.date=2015&rft_id=info%3Aoclcnum%2F909065833&rft.isbn=978-3-662-46482-3&rft.aulast=Zhang&rft.aufirst=Qizhi&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3D1QhJCAAAQBAJ&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhouGao1984" class="citation book cs1">Zhou, Xun; Gao, Chunming (1984). <i>5000 Years of Chinese Costume</i>. The Chinese Costumes Research Group. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/962-07-5021-7" title="Special:BookSources/962-07-5021-7"><bdi>962-07-5021-7</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=5000+Years+of+Chinese+Costume&rft.place=Hong+Kong&rft.pub=The+Commercial+Press&rft.date=1984&rft.isbn=962-07-5021-7&rft.aulast=Zhou&rft.aufirst=Xun&rft.au=Gao%2C+Chunming&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span> <ul><li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhouGao1988" class="citation book cs1">Zhou, Xun; Gao, Chunming (1988). <i>5000 years of Chinese costumes</i>. San Francisco: China Books & Periodicals. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-8351-1822-4" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-8351-1822-4"><bdi>978-0-8351-1822-4</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=5000+years+of+Chinese+costumes&rft.place=San+Francisco&rft.pub=China+Books+%26+Periodicals&rft.date=1988&rft.isbn=978-0-8351-1822-4&rft.aulast=Zhou&rft.aufirst=Xun&rft.au=Gao%2C+Chunming&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li></ul></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222" /><cite id="CITEREFZhou1984" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-script">Zhou, Xibao (1984). <bdi lang="zh">【中國古代服飾史】</bdi> [<i>History of Ancient Chinese Costume</i>]. Beijing: Zhongguo Xiju.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=%E3%80%90%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%A3%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E5%8F%B2%E3%80%91&rft.place=Beijing&rft.pub=Zhongguo+Xiju&rft.date=1984&rft.aulast=Zhou&rft.aufirst=Xibao&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3AHanfu" class="Z3988"></span></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="External_links">External links</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Hanfu&action=edit&section=52" title="Edit section: External links"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1235681985">.mw-parser-output .side-box{margin:4px 0;box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #aaa;font-size:88%;line-height:1.25em;background-color:var(--background-color-interactive-subtle,#f8f9fa);display:flow-root}.mw-parser-output .side-box-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{padding:0.25em 0.9em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-image{padding:2px 0 2px 0.9em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-imageright{padding:2px 0.9em 2px 0;text-align:center}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .side-box-flex{display:flex;align-items:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{flex:1;min-width:0}}@media(min-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .side-box{width:238px}.mw-parser-output .side-box-right{clear:right;float:right;margin-left:1em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-left{margin-right:1em}}</style><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1237033735">@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox{display:none!important}}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}</style><div class="side-box side-box-right plainlinks sistersitebox"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1126788409">.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul{line-height:inherit;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol li,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul li{margin-bottom:0}</style> <div class="side-box-flex"> <div class="side-box-image"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Commons-logo.svg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/40px-Commons-logo.svg.png" decoding="async" width="30" height="40" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/60px-Commons-logo.svg.png 1.5x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="1376" /></a></span></div> <div class="side-box-text plainlist">Wikimedia Commons has media related to <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hanfu" class="extiw" title="commons:Category:Hanfu">Hanfu</a></span>.</div></div> </div> <ul><li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://hdl.library.upenn.edu/1017/d/fisher/n2007091889">Wooden figures from a Xingyang warring-state period tomb</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://author.today/work/318371/">Рубрикатор ханьфу. Китайский костюм, история, культура - самая полная база знаний о ханьфу</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://vk.com/@chinesehanfu-rubrikator-hanfu">Рубрикатор ханьфу на ВК</a></li></ul> <div class="navbox-styles"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ul{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist 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mw-collapsible mw-collapsed navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="2"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239400231">.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:inline;font-size:88%;font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .navbar-collapse{float:left;text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .navbar-boxtext{word-spacing:0}.mw-parser-output .navbar ul{display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;line-height:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::before{margin-right:-0.125em;content:"[ "}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::after{margin-left:-0.125em;content:" ]"}.mw-parser-output .navbar li{word-spacing:-0.125em}.mw-parser-output .navbar a>span,.mw-parser-output .navbar a>abbr{text-decoration:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-mini abbr{font-variant:small-caps;border-bottom:none;text-decoration:none;cursor:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-full{font-size:114%;margin:0 7em}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-mini{font-size:114%;margin:0 4em}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Types_of_Han_Chinese_clothing" title="Template:Types of Han Chinese clothing"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Types_of_Han_Chinese_clothing" title="Template talk:Types of Han Chinese clothing"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Types_of_Han_Chinese_clothing" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Types of Han Chinese clothing"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Traditional_Han_Chinese_clothing312" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Traditional Han Chinese clothing</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Characteristics</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">Garment and neckline (list)</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Garment_collars_in_Hanfu#Cross-collars" class="mw-redirect" title="Garment collars in Hanfu">Jiaoling youren</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mandarin_collar" title="Mandarin collar">Mandarin collar</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Fastening</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Frog_(fastening)" title="Frog (fastening)">Pankou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_button_knot" title="Chinese button knot">Chinese button knot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Frog_(fastening)" title="Frog (fastening)">Zimukou</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Styles</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Paofu#Baoyi_bodai" title="Paofu">Baoyi bodai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ruqun#Shangjian_xiafeng" title="Ruqun">Shangjian xiafeng</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fuyao_(fashion)" title="Fuyao (fashion)">Fuyao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hufu" title="Hufu">Hufu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_hanfu" title="List of hanfu">List of hanfu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Textile decoration and craft</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Tian-tsui" title="Tian-tsui">Diancui</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_knotting" title="Chinese knotting">Chinese knotting</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_embroidery" title="Chinese embroidery">Chinese embroidery</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_auspicious_ornaments_in_textile_and_clothing" title="Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing">Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing (list)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xiangyun_(Auspicious_clouds)" title="Xiangyun (Auspicious clouds)">Xiangyun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lishui_(sea-waves)" title="Lishui (sea-waves)">Lishui (sea-waves)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mandarin_square" title="Mandarin square">Mandarin square</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_ornamental_gold_silk" title="Chinese ornamental gold silk">Chinese ornamental gold silk</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Goldwork_(embroidery)" title="Goldwork (embroidery)">Goldwork</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_patchwork" title="Chinese patchwork">Chinese patchwork</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Belief system and social movement</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Confucianism" title="Confucianism">Confucianism</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Taoism" title="Taoism">Taoism</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wufu" title="Wufu">Wufu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wuxing_(Chinese_philosophy)" title="Wuxing (Chinese philosophy)">Wuxing (Chinese philosophy)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yin_and_Yang" class="mw-redirect" title="Yin and Yang">Yin and Yang</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_movement" class="mw-redirect" title="Hanfu movement">Hanfu movement</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Sumptuary laws</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Tifayifu" title="Tifayifu">Tifayifu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Related rituals</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Guan_Li" title="Guan Li">Guan Li</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ji_Li_(ceremony)" title="Ji Li (ceremony)">Ji Li (ceremony)</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Garments</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Set of attire</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ruqun" title="Ruqun">Ruqun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tanling_ruqun" title="Tanling ruqun">Tanling ruqun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun" title="Qixiong ruqun">Qixiong ruqun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qungua" title="Qungua">Qungua</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xiuhefu" title="Xiuhefu">Xiuhefu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mianfu" title="Mianfu">Mianfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bianfu" title="Bianfu">Bianfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">Tongtianguanfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xuanduan" title="Xuanduan">Xuanduan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Diyi" title="Diyi">Diyi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu" title="Zaju chuishao fu">Zaju chuishao fu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shanku" title="Shanku">Shanku</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Upper garment</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">Ru</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">Yi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">Shan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ru_(upper_garment)" title="Ru (upper garment)">Ao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chang%27ao" title="Chang'ao">Chang'ao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Baijiayi" title="Baijiayi">Baijiayi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Daxiushan" title="Daxiushan">Daxiushan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bijia" title="Bijia">Bijia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Banbi" title="Banbi">Banbi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dahu_(clothing)" title="Dahu (clothing)">Dahu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">Beizi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">Pifeng</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Beizi" title="Beizi">Hechang</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shuitianyi" title="Shuitianyi">Shuitianyi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yuanlingshan" title="Yuanlingshan">Yuanlingshan</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Robe</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">Shenyi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">Zhiju</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shenyi" title="Shenyi">Quju</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Paofu" title="Paofu">Paofu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Daopao" title="Daopao">Daopao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Zhiduo_(clothing)" title="Zhiduo (clothing)">Zhiduo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yuanlingshan" title="Yuanlingshan">Yuanlingpao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fanlingpao" title="Fanlingpao">Fanlingpao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Panling_Lanshan" title="Panling Lanshan">Panling Lanshan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dragon_robe" title="Dragon robe">Longpao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mangfu" title="Mangfu">Mangfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Terlig" title="Terlig">Tieli</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yesa_robe" title="Yesa robe"> Yesa</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jis%C3%BCn" title="Jisün">Zhisun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Feiyufu" title="Feiyufu">Feiyufu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Inner and undergarment</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Dudou" title="Dudou">Dudou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hezi_(clothing)" title="Hezi (clothing)">Hezi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hezi_(clothing)" title="Hezi (clothing)">Moxiong</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Maweiqun" title="Maweiqun">Maweiqun</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Lower garment</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ku_(trousers)" title="Ku (trousers)">Ku</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qun" title="Qun">Qun</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Baidiequn" title="Baidiequn">Baidiequn</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mamianqun" title="Mamianqun">Mamianqun</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Religious clothing</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Daojiao_fushi" title="Daojiao fushi">Daojiao fushi</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu_headwear" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu headwear">Headwear (list)</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Guan_(headwear)" title="Guan (headwear)">Guan</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Mianguan" title="Mianguan">Mianguan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fengguan" title="Fengguan">Fengguan</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">Futou</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Tang_official_headwear" title="Tang official headwear">Tang official headwear</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Song_official_headwear" class="mw-redirect" title="Song official headwear">Song official headwear</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Mao</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Humao" title="Humao">Humao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Damao_(hat)" title="Damao (hat)">Damao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Liangmao" title="Liangmao">Liangmao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Weimao" title="Weimao">Weimao</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Jin</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Fujin_(headgear)" title="Fujin (headgear)">Fujin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wangjin" title="Wangjin">Wangjin</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Hairpin</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_hairpin" title="Chinese hairpin">Chinese hairpin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Buyao" title="Buyao">Buyao</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Comb</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Shubi_(comb)" title="Shubi (comb)">Shubi</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Veil</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Honggaitou" title="Honggaitou">Honggaitou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mili_(veil)" title="Mili (veil)">Mili</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_footwear" title="Hanfu footwear">Footwear (list)</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Xiuhuaxie" title="Xiuhuaxie">Xiuhuaxie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tiger-head_shoes" title="Tiger-head shoes">Tiger-head shoes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lotus_shoes" class="mw-redirect" title="Lotus shoes">Lotus shoes</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_accessories" title="Hanfu accessories">Accessories (list)</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Head</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Lingzi" title="Lingzi">Lingzi</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Neck</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Yingluo_(ornament)" title="Yingluo (ornament)">Yingluo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yunjian" title="Yunjian">Yunjian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tongtianguanfu" title="Tongtianguanfu">Fangxingquling</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Shoulders</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Pibo" title="Pibo">Pibo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xiapei" title="Xiapei">Xiapei</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Chest</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Yajin" title="Yajin">Yajin</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Waist</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Yaoqun" title="Yaoqun">Yaoqun</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Lap</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bixi_(clothing)" title="Bixi (clothing)">Bixi</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Ribbons and knots</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/L%C3%A0o_zi" title="Lào zi">Lào zi</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Portable</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hebao" title="Hebao">Hebao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hebao" title="Hebao">Xiangnang (fragrant sachet)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hu_(ritual_baton)" title="Hu (ritual baton)">Hu (ritual baton)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fu_(tally)" title="Fu (tally)">Fu (tally)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fu_(tally)#Fish_tally/_yufu" title="Fu (tally)">Yufu (fish tally)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fu_(tally)#Yudai" title="Fu (tally)">Yudai (fish bag)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hand_fan" title="Hand fan">Folding fan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tuanshan" title="Tuanshan">Tuanshan</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Jewellery</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Lock_charm" title="Lock charm">Longevity lock</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yupei" title="Yupei">Yupei</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yupei#Jinbu_(禁步)" title="Yupei">Jinbu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Influenced clothing</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Traditional clothing</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kimono" title="Kimono">Kimono</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanbok" title="Hanbok">Hanbok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ryusou" title="Ryusou">Ryusou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing" title="Vietnamese clothing">Vietnamese clothing</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Performance costume</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Xifu_(Costume)" class="mw-redirect" title="Xifu (Costume)">Xifu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Guzhuang_(costume)" title="Guzhuang (costume)"> Guzhuang</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Cosmetics</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Huadian_(make-up)" title="Huadian (make-up)">Huadian</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="2"><div> <ul><li><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span title="List-Class article"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/d/db/Symbol_list_class.svg/16px-Symbol_list_class.svg.png" decoding="async" width="16" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/d/db/Symbol_list_class.svg/23px-Symbol_list_class.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/d/db/Symbol_list_class.svg/31px-Symbol_list_class.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="180" data-file-height="185" /></span></span> <a href="/wiki/List_of_Hanfu" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Hanfu">List of Hanfu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236075235" /></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="Folk_costumes89" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks mw-collapsible mw-collapsed navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="2"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239400231" /><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Folk_costumes" title="Template:Folk costumes"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Folk_costumes" title="Template talk:Folk costumes"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Folk_costumes" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Folk costumes"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Folk_costumes89" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/Folk_costume" title="Folk costume">Folk costumes</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa" title="Clothing in Africa">Africa</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Balgha" title="Balgha">Balgha</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Agbada" title="Agbada">Boubou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dashiki" title="Dashiki">Dashiki</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Djellaba" title="Djellaba">Djellaba</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Head_tie" title="Head tie">Head tie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jellabiya" title="Jellabiya">Jellabiya</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kanzu" title="Kanzu">Kanzu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kente_cloth" title="Kente cloth">Kente cloth</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kufi" title="Kufi">Kufi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Litham" title="Litham">Litham</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pareo" title="Pareo">Pareo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan" title="Senegalese kaftan">Senegalese kaftan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tagelmust" class="mw-redirect" title="Tagelmust">Tagelmust</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)" title="Wrapper (clothing)">Wrapper</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Asia</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Central</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Pashtun_clothing" title="Pashtun clothing">Afghanistan</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Pakol" title="Pakol">Pakol</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chapan" title="Chapan">Chapan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Deel_(clothing)" title="Deel (clothing)">Deel</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Malahai" title="Malahai">Malahai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Paranja" title="Paranja">Paranja</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">East</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chinese_clothing" title="Chinese clothing">China</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Cheongsam" title="Cheongsam">Cheongsam</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Hanfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mao_suit" title="Mao suit">Mao suit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tangzhuang" title="Tangzhuang">Tangzhuang</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Japanese_clothing" title="Japanese clothing">Japan</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hachimaki" title="Hachimaki">Hachimaki</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kimono" title="Kimono">Kimono</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Obi_(sash)" title="Obi (sash)">Obi</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Korean_clothing" title="List of Korean clothing">Korea</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Cheopji" title="Cheopji">Cheopji</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Daenggi" title="Daenggi">Daenggi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gache" title="Gache">Gache</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanbok" title="Hanbok">Hanbok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hwagwan" title="Hwagwan">Hwagwan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jokduri" title="Jokduri">Jokduri</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wangjin" title="Wangjin">Manggeon</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">South</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li>Bhutan <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Gho" title="Gho">Gho</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)" title="Kira (Bhutan)">Kira</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dhoti" title="Dhoti">Dhoti</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dupatta" title="Dupatta">Dupatta</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_India" title="Clothing in India">India</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lungi" title="Lungi">Lungi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Newar_traditional_clothing" title="Newar traditional clothing">Nepal</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pakistani_clothing" title="Pakistani clothing">Pakistan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pathin" title="Pathin">Pathin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Perak_(headdress)" title="Perak (headdress)">Perak</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peshawari_turban" title="Peshawari turban">Peshawari pagri</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sari" title="Sari">Sari</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shalwar_kameez" title="Shalwar kameez">Shalwar kameez</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sherwani" title="Sherwani">Sherwani</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Southeast</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Burmese_clothing" title="Burmese clothing">Burma</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Longyi" title="Longyi">Longyi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gaung_baung" title="Gaung baung">Gaung baung</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Khmer_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Khmer clothing">Cambodia</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben" title="Sompot Chong Kben">Chong Kben</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Krama" title="Krama">Krama</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sompot" class="mw-redirect" title="Sompot">Sompot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sbai" title="Sbai">Sbai</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia" title="National costume of Indonesia">Indonesia</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bodo_blouse" title="Bodo blouse">Baju bodo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Batik" title="Batik">Batik</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Blangkon" title="Blangkon">Blangkon</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ikat" title="Ikat">Ikat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kebaya" title="Kebaya">Kebaya</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kemben" title="Kemben">Kemben</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kupiah" title="Kupiah">Kupiah</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Songket" title="Songket">Songket</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Songkok" title="Songkok">Songkok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tengkolok" title="Tengkolok">Tanjak</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ulos" title="Ulos">Ulos</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Culture_of_Laos#Traditional_clothing" title="Culture of Laos">Laos</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Xout_lao" title="Xout lao">Xout lao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Suea_pat" title="Suea pat">Suea pat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)" title="Sinh (clothing)">Sinh</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits" title="Malaysian cultural outfits">Malaysia</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Baju_Kurung" title="Baju Kurung">Baju Kurung</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Baju_Melayu" title="Baju Melayu">Baju Melayu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Songket" title="Songket">Songket</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Songkok" title="Songkok">Songkok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tengkolok" title="Tengkolok">Tengkolok</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fashion_and_clothing_in_the_Philippines" title="Fashion and clothing in the Philippines">Philippines</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Barong_tagalog" title="Barong tagalog">Barong tagalog</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Baro%27t_saya" title="Baro't saya">Baro't saya</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Buntal_hat" title="Buntal hat">Buntal hat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Malong" title="Malong">Malong</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown" title="Maria Clara gown">Maria Clara gown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Patadyong" title="Patadyong">Patadyong</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Salakot" title="Salakot">Salakot</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing" title="Traditional Thai clothing">Thailand</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Banong" title="Traditional Thai clothing">Banong</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chong_kraben" class="mw-redirect" title="Chong kraben">Chong kraben</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing" title="Traditional Thai clothing">Chut Thai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume" title="Formal Thai national costume">Formal Chut Thai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Pha_khao_ma" title="Traditional Thai clothing">Pha khao ma</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pha_nung" class="mw-redirect" title="Pha nung">Pha nung</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Raj_pattern" title="Raj pattern">Raj pattern</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sabai" class="mw-redirect" title="Sabai">Sabai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)" title="Sinh (clothing)">Sinh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Suea_pat" title="Suea pat">Suea pat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Tabengman" title="Traditional Thai clothing">Tabengman</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tudong" title="Tudong">Tudong</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing" title="Vietnamese clothing">Vietnam</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba" title="Áo bà ba">Áo bà ba</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i" title="Áo dài">Áo dài</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh" title="Áo giao lĩnh">Áo giao lĩnh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n" title="Áo tứ thân">Áo tứ thân</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Middle East</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Abaya" title="Abaya">Abaya</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Agal_(accessory)" title="Agal (accessory)">Agal</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Assyrian_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Assyrian clothing">Assyria</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)" title="Bisht (clothing)">Bisht</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Boshiya" title="Boshiya">Boshiya</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Burqa" title="Burqa">Burqa</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chador" title="Chador">Chador</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Izaar" title="Izaar">Izaar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing" title="Jewish religious clothing">Jewish</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kippah" title="Kippah">Kippah</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sheitel" class="mw-redirect" title="Sheitel">Sheitel</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tallit" title="Tallit">Tallit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tallit_katan" class="mw-redirect" title="Tallit katan">Tallit katan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tefillin" title="Tefillin">Tefillin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tzitzit" title="Tzitzit">Tzitzit</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b" title="Jilbāb">Jilbāb</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Keffiyeh" title="Keffiyeh">Keffiyeh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kurdish_clothing" class="mw-redirect" title="Kurdish clothing">Kurdish</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Niq%C4%81b" title="Niqāb">Niqāb</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Palestinian_costumes" class="mw-redirect" title="Palestinian costumes">Palestine</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pandama" title="Pandama">Pandama</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Thawb" title="Thawb">Thawb</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Turban" title="Turban">Turban</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hejazi_turban" title="Hejazi turban">Hejazi</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Europe</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Balkan</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Albanian_clothing" title="Traditional Albanian clothing">Traditional Albanian clothing</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Brez_(clothing)" title="Brez (clothing)">Brez</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/%C3%87orape" title="Çorape">Çorape</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Opinga" title="Opinga">Opinga</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qeleshe" title="Qeleshe">Qeleshe</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xhamadan" title="Xhamadan">Xhamadan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xhubleta" title="Xhubleta">Xhubleta</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/w/index.php?title=Aromanian_traditional_clothing&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Aromanian traditional clothing (page does not exist)">Aromanian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Croatian_national_costume" title="Croatian national costume">Croatia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fustanella" title="Fustanella">Fustanella</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Greek_dress" title="Greek dress">Greek</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chiton_(costume)" class="mw-redirect" title="Chiton (costume)">Chiton</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chlamys" title="Chlamys">Chlamys</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Himation" title="Himation">Himation</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume" title="Macedonian national costume">Macedonia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Romanian_dress" class="mw-redirect" title="Romanian dress">Romania</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing" title="Serbian traditional clothing">Serbia</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo" title="Traditional clothing of Kosovo">Kosovo</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">British Isles</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li>Britain <ul><li><a href="/wiki/British_country_clothing" title="British country clothing">Country</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom" title="Court uniform and dress in the United Kingdom">Court</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Windsor_uniform" title="Windsor uniform">Windsor uniform</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Irish_clothing" title="Irish clothing">Ireland</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Highland_dress" title="Highland dress">Scottish highlands</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Aboyne_dress" title="Aboyne dress">Aboyne</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Feather_bonnet" title="Feather bonnet">Feather bonnet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kilt" title="Kilt">Kilt</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sporran" title="Sporran">Sporran</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_Welsh_costume" title="Traditional Welsh costume">Wales</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Central</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Dirndl" title="Dirndl">Dirndl</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lederhosen" title="Lederhosen">Lederhosen</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland" title="National costumes of Poland">Poland</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tracht" title="Tracht">Tracht</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Eastern</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Armenian_dress" title="Armenian dress">Armenia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Azerbaijani_traditional_clothing" title="Azerbaijani traditional clothing">Azerbaijan</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kelaghayi" title="Kelaghayi">Kelaghayi</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ukrainian_national_clothing" title="Ukrainian national clothing">Ukraine</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kobeniak" title="Kobeniak">Kobeniak</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kozhukh" title="Kozhukh">Kozhukh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kozhushanka" title="Kozhushanka">Kozhushanka</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ochipok" title="Ochipok">Ochipok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sharovary" title="Sharovary">Sharovary</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vyshyvanka" title="Vyshyvanka">Vyshyvanka</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath" title="Ukrainian wreath">Ukrainian wreath</a></li></ul></li> <li>Russia <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kokoshnik" title="Kokoshnik">Kokoshnik</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kosovorotka" title="Kosovorotka">Kosovorotka</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bast_shoe" title="Bast shoe">Lapti</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Orenburg_shawl" title="Orenburg shawl">Orenburg shawl</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sarafan" title="Sarafan">Sarafan</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Western</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li>Netherlands <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Poffer" title="Poffer">Poffer</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kraplap" title="Kraplap">Kraplap</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Oorijzer" title="Oorijzer">Oorijzer</a></li></ul></li> <li>France <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Breton_costume" title="Breton costume">Breton costume</a></li></ul></li> <li>Spain <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca" title="Traje de flamenca">Traje de flamenca</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Barretina" title="Barretina">Barretina</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cachirulo" title="Cachirulo">Cachirulo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cordovan_hat" title="Cordovan hat">Cordovan hat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite" title="Sombrero de catite">Sombrero de catite</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mantilla" title="Mantilla">Mantilla</a></li></ul></li> <li>Italy <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ciocia" title="Ciocia">Ciocia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Coppola_cap" title="Coppola cap">Coppola cap</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Scandinavian</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bunad" title="Bunad">Bunad</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/G%C3%A1kti" title="Gákti">Gákti</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume" title="Icelandic national costume">Iceland</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming" title="Culture of Sweden">Sweden</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten" title="Nationella dräkten">Nationella dräkten</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten" title="Bäckadräkten">Bäckadräkten</a></li> <li><a href="/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Sverigedräkten (page does not exist)">Sverigedräkten</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">South America</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)" title="Aguayo (cloth)">Aguayo</a></li> <li>Chile <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chamanto" title="Chamanto">Chamanto</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chilote_cap" title="Chilote cap">Chilote cap</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chilote_poncho" title="Chilote poncho">Chilote poncho</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chupalla" title="Chupalla">Chupalla</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chullo" title="Chullo">Chullo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Guayabera" title="Guayabera">Guayabera</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Liqui_liqui" title="Liqui liqui">Liqui liqui</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lliklla" title="Lliklla">Lliklla</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Panama_hat" title="Panama hat">Panama hat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pollera" title="Pollera">Pollera</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Poncho" title="Poncho">Poncho</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ruana" title="Ruana">Ruana</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">North America</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Inuit_clothing" title="Inuit clothing">Inuit skin clothing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tignon" title="Tignon">Tignon</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e" title="Ceinture fléchée">Ceinture fléchée</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Western_wear" title="Western wear">Western wear</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bolo_tie" title="Bolo tie">Bolo tie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chaps" title="Chaps">Chaps</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Huipil" title="Huipil">Huipil</a></li> <li>Mexico <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)" title="Huarache (shoe)">Huarache</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots" title="Mexican pointy boots">Mexican pointy boots</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rebozo" title="Rebozo">Rebozo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Serape" title="Serape">Serape</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sombrero" title="Sombrero">Sombrero</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Quechquemitl" title="Quechquemitl">Quechquemitl</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Oceania</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Grass_skirt" title="Grass skirt">Grass skirt</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Feather_cloak" title="Feather cloak">Feather cloak</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/I-sala" title="I-sala">I-sala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lap-lap" title="Lap-lap">Lap-lap</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lavalava" title="Lavalava">Lavalava</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)" title="Kiekie (clothing)">Kiekie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pareo" title="Pareo">Pareo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)" title="Sulu (skirt)">Sulu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala" title="Taʻovala">Taʻovala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/T%C4%93fui" title="Tēfui">Tēfui</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tupenu" title="Tupenu">Tupenu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236075235" /></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="Historical_clothing437" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks hlist mw-collapsible mw-collapsed navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="3"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239400231" /><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Historical_clothing" title="Template:Historical clothing"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Historical_clothing" title="Template talk:Historical clothing"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Historical_clothing" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Historical clothing"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Historical_clothing437" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles" title="History of clothing and textiles">Historical clothing</a></div></th></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="3"><div>Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Body-length</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Abolla" title="Abolla">Abolla</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)" title="Banyan (clothing)">Banyan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)" title="Brunswick (clothing)">Brunswick</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan" title="Court uniform and dress in the Empire of Japan">Court dress (Empire of Japan)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chiton_(costume)" class="mw-redirect" title="Chiton (costume)">Chiton</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Frock" title="Frock">Frock</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Frock_coat" title="Frock coat">Frock coat</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Hanfu</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Justacorps" title="Justacorps">Justacorps</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Paenula" title="Paenula">Paenula</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peplos" title="Peplos">Peplos</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Stola" title="Stola">Stola</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Toga" title="Toga">Toga</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tunic" title="Tunic">Tunic</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Xout_lao" title="Xout lao">Xout lao</a></li></ul> </div></td><td class="noviewer navbox-image" rowspan="10" style="width:1px;padding:0 0 0 2px"><div><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Clothes.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Clothes.jpg/250px-Clothes.jpg" decoding="async" width="150" height="236" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Clothes.jpg/330px-Clothes.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1566" data-file-height="2460" /></a></span></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Top_(clothing)" title="Top (clothing)">Tops</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Basque_(clothing)" title="Basque (clothing)">Basque</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bedgown" title="Bedgown">Bedgown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bodice" title="Bodice">Bodice</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)" title="Doublet (clothing)">Doublet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peascod_belly" title="Peascod belly">Peascod belly</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Poet_shirt" title="Poet shirt">Poet shirt</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sbai" title="Sbai">Sbai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Suea_pat" title="Suea pat">Suea pat</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Trousers" title="Trousers">Trousers</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Braccae" title="Braccae">Braccae</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Breeches" title="Breeches">Breeches</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben" title="Sompot Chong Kben">Sompot Chong Kben</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Culottes" title="Culottes">Culottes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Harem_pants" title="Harem pants">Harem</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)" title="Knickerbockers (clothing)">Knickerbockers</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pedal_pushers" title="Pedal pushers">Pedal pushers</a></li> <li><a href="/w/index.php?title=Zarag%C3%BCelles&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Zaragüelles (page does not exist)">Zaragüelles</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zarag%C3%BCelles_(calzones)" class="extiw" title="es:Zaragüelles (calzones)">es</a>]</span></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Skirt" title="Skirt">Skirts</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hobble_skirt" title="Hobble skirt">Hobble</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Poodle_skirt" title="Poodle skirt">Poodle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)" title="Safeguard (costume)">Safeguard</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sompot" class="mw-redirect" title="Sompot">Sompot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)" title="Sinh (clothing)">Sinh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Train_(clothing)" title="Train (clothing)">Train</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Dress" title="Dress">Dresses</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bliaut" title="Bliaut">Bliaut</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Close-bodied_gown" title="Close-bodied gown">Close-bodied gown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Debutante_dress" title="Debutante dress">Debutante</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gown" title="Gown">Gown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kirtle" title="Kirtle">Kirtle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)" title="Mantua (clothing)">Mantua</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)" title="Polonaise (clothing)">Polonaise</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Robe_de_cour" title="Robe de cour">Robe de cour</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sack-back_gown" title="Sack-back gown">Sack-back gown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sailor_dress" title="Sailor dress">Sailor</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tea_gown" title="Tea gown">Tea gown</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu" title="Zaju chuishao fu">Zaju chuishao fu</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_outerwear" title="List of outerwear">Outerwear</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Capote_(garment)" title="Capote (garment)">Capote</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Car_coat" title="Car coat">Car coat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Caraco" title="Caraco">Caraco</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cardinal_cloak" title="Cardinal cloak">Cardinal cloak</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)" title="Chamail (clothing)">Chamail</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chlamys" title="Chlamys">Chlamys</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cloak" title="Cloak">Cloak</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kinsale_cloak" title="Kinsale cloak">Kinsale cloak</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dolman" title="Dolman">Dolman</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)" title="Doublet (clothing)">Doublet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Duster_(clothing)" title="Duster (clothing)">Duster</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Exomis" title="Exomis">Exomis</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Greatcoat" title="Greatcoat">Greatcoat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Himation" title="Himation">Himation</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Houppelande" title="Houppelande">Houppelande</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Inverness_cape" title="Inverness cape">Inverness cape</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jerkin" title="Jerkin">Jerkin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kandys" title="Kandys">Kandys</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket" title="Mackinaw jacket">Mackinaw jacket</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Nadiri" title="Nadiri">Nadiri</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Norfolk_jacket" title="Norfolk jacket">Norfolk jacket</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Over-frock_coat" title="Over-frock coat">Overfrock</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo" title="Pañuelo">Pañuelo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Palla_(garment)" title="Palla (garment)">Palla</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)" title="Pallium (Roman cloak)">Pallium</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pelisse" title="Pelisse">Pelisse</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Poncho" title="Poncho">Poncho</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shadbelly" title="Shadbelly">Shadbelly</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shawl" title="Shawl">Shawl</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Galway_shawl" title="Galway shawl">Galway shawl</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kullu_shawl" title="Kullu shawl">Kullu</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Smock-frock" title="Smock-frock">Smock-frock</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)" title="Spencer (clothing)">Spencer</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Surcoat" title="Surcoat">Surcoat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Surtout" title="Surtout">Surtout</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ulster_coat" title="Ulster coat">Ulster coat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Visite" title="Visite">Visite</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Witzchoura" title="Witzchoura">Witzchoura</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Undergarment" class="mw-redirect" title="Undergarment">Underwear</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Basque_(clothing)" title="Basque (clothing)">Basque</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bustle" title="Bustle">Bustle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chausses" title="Chausses">Chausses</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chemise" title="Chemise">Chemise</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Codpiece" title="Codpiece">Codpiece</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Corselet" title="Corselet">Corselet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Corset" title="Corset">Corset</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Waist_cincher" title="Waist cincher">Waist cincher</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dickey_(garment)" title="Dickey (garment)">Dickey</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Garter" title="Garter">Garter</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hoop_skirt" title="Hoop skirt">Hoop skirt</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Crinoline" title="Crinoline">Crinoline</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Farthingale" title="Farthingale">Farthingale</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)" title="Pannier (clothing)">Pannier</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hose_(clothing)" title="Hose (clothing)">Hose</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Liberty_bodice" title="Liberty bodice">Liberty bodice</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Loincloth" title="Loincloth">Loincloth</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Open_drawers" title="Open drawers">Open drawers</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pantalettes" title="Pantalettes">Pantalettes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Petticoat" title="Petticoat">Petticoat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peignoir" title="Peignoir">Peignoir</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pettipants" title="Pettipants">Pettipants</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Union_suit" title="Union suit">Union suit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm" title="Yếm">Yếm</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Headgear" title="Headgear">Headwear</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat" title="Anthony Eden hat">Anthony Eden</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Apex_(headdress)" title="Apex (headdress)">Apex</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Arakhchin" title="Arakhchin">Arakhchin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Attifet" title="Attifet">Attifet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Aviator_hat" class="mw-redirect" title="Aviator hat">Aviator</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ba_t%E1%BA%A7m" title="Ba tầm">Ba tầm</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Berg%C3%A8re_hat" title="Bergère hat">Bergère</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Blessed_sword_and_hat" title="Blessed sword and hat">Blessed hat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)" title="Bonnet (headgear)">Bonnet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Calathus_(basket)" title="Calathus (basket)">Calath crown (headdress)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Capotain" title="Capotain">Capotain</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Caubeen" title="Caubeen">Caubeen</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cavalier_hat" title="Cavalier hat">Cavalier</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Coif" title="Coif">Coif</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Coonskin_cap" title="Coonskin cap">Coonskin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cornette" title="Cornette">Cornette</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dunce_cap" class="mw-redirect" title="Dunce cap">Dunce</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fillet_(clothing)" title="Fillet (clothing)">Fillet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/French_hood" title="French hood">French hood</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fontange" title="Fontange">Fontange</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Futou" title="Futou">Futou</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gable_hood" title="Gable hood">Gable hood</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hennin" title="Hennin">Hennin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jeongjagwan" title="Jeongjagwan">Jeongjagwan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jewish_hat" title="Jewish hat">Jewish</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kausia" title="Kausia">Kausia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kokoshnik" title="Kokoshnik">Kokoshnik</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Llawt%27u" title="Llawt'u">Llawt'u</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Malahai" title="Malahai">Malahai</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Matron%27s_badge" title="Matron's badge">Matron's badge</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Miner%27s_cap" title="Miner's cap">Miner's</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mobcap" title="Mobcap">Mob</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Modius_(headdress)" title="Modius (headdress)">Modius</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Monmouth_cap" title="Monmouth cap">Monmouth</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mooskappe" title="Mooskappe">Mooskappe</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Motoring_hood" title="Motoring hood">Motoring hood</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mounteere_Cap" class="mw-redirect" title="Mounteere Cap">Mounteere</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Nemes" title="Nemes">Nemes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Nightcap_(garment)" title="Nightcap (garment)">Nightcap</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ochipok" title="Ochipok">Ochipok</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pahlavi_hat" title="Pahlavi hat">Pahlavi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Petasos" title="Petasos">Petasos</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Phrygian_cap" title="Phrygian cap">Phrygian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pileus_(hat)" title="Pileus (hat)">Pileus</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Printer%27s_hat" title="Printer's hat">Printer's</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Baby_bumper_headguard_cap" title="Baby bumper headguard cap">Pudding</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qeleshe" title="Qeleshe">Qeleshe</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qing_official_headwear" title="Qing official headwear">Qing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Salakot" title="Salakot">Salakot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Snood_(headgear)" title="Snood (headgear)">Snood</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Smoking_cap" title="Smoking cap">Smoking</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Stephane_(headdress)" title="Stephane (headdress)">Stephane (headdress)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tainia_(costume)" title="Tainia (costume)">Tainia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Taranga_(clothing)" title="Taranga (clothing)">Taranga</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Welsh_Wig" title="Welsh Wig">Welsh Wig</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wimple" title="Wimple">Wimple</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Footwear" title="Footwear">Footwear</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Buskin" title="Buskin">Buskins</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Calcei" class="mw-redirect" title="Calcei">Calcei</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Caligae" title="Caligae">Caligae</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Carbatina" title="Carbatina">Carbatina</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanfu_footwear" title="Hanfu footwear">Chinese styles</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chopine" title="Chopine">Chopines</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Duckbill_shoe" title="Duckbill shoe">Duckbills</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Episcopal_sandals" title="Episcopal sandals">Episcopal sandals</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hessian_(boot)" title="Hessian (boot)">Hessian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lotus_shoes" class="mw-redirect" title="Lotus shoes">Lotus shoes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Manchu_platform_shoes" title="Manchu platform shoes">Manchu platform shoes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pampootie" title="Pampootie">Pampooties</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Patten_(shoe)" title="Patten (shoe)">Pattens</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pigache" title="Pigache">Pigaches</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Poulaine" title="Poulaine">Poulaines</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Socci" class="mw-redirect" title="Socci">Socci</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tiger-head_shoes" title="Tiger-head shoes">Tiger-head shoes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Turnshoe" title="Turnshoe">Turnshoes</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Fashion_accessory" title="Fashion accessory">Accessories</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ascot_tie" title="Ascot tie">Ascot tie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Belt_hook" title="Belt hook">Belt hook</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cointoise" title="Cointoise">Cointoise</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cravat_(early)" title="Cravat (early)">Cravat (early)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hairpin" title="Hairpin">Hairpin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hatpin" title="Hatpin">Hatpin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)" title="Jabot (neckwear)">Jabot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pussy_bow" title="Pussy bow">Lavallière</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)" title="Muff (handwarmer)">Muff</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Oes" title="Oes">Oes</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Partlet" title="Partlet">Partlet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Perfumed_gloves" title="Perfumed gloves">Perfumed gloves</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)" title="Ruff (clothing)">Ruff</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shoe_buckle" title="Shoe buckle">Shoe buckle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Visard" title="Visard">Visard</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="3"><div><span class="nowrap"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Emojione_1F458.svg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="icon" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/28px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png" decoding="async" width="28" height="28" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/42px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/56px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="512" data-file-height="512" /></a></span> </span><a href="/wiki/Portal:Clothing" title="Portal:Clothing">Clothing portal</a></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236075235" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion435" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks mw-collapsible autocollapse navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="3"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374" /><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239400231" /><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion" title="Template:Timeline of clothing and fashion"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion" title="Template talk:Timeline of clothing and fashion"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Timeline of clothing and fashion"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion435" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology" title="Timeline of clothing and textiles technology">Timeline</a> of clothing and fashion</div></th></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="3"><div><div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles" title="History of clothing and textiles">History of clothing and textiles</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_fashion_design" title="History of fashion design">History of fashion design</a></li></ul> </div></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_world" title="Clothing in the ancient world">Ancient</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Prehistory_of_nakedness_and_clothing" title="Prehistory of nakedness and clothing">Prehistory of nakedness and clothing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Popular_fashion_in_ancient_China" title="Popular fashion in ancient China">China</a> <ul><li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Han Chinese</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Shu" title="Clothing in ancient Shu">Shu</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt" title="Clothing in ancient Egypt">Egyptian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Inuit_clothing" title="Inuit clothing">Inuit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Biblical_clothing" title="Biblical clothing">Biblical</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Greece" title="Clothing in ancient Greece">Greek</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Rome" title="Clothing in ancient Rome">Roman</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Thracian_clothing" title="Thracian clothing">Thracian</a></li></ul> </div></td><td class="noviewer navbox-image" rowspan="9" style="width:1px;padding:0 0 0 2px"><div><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:LA2-NSRW-2-0065_trimmed.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ad/LA2-NSRW-2-0065_trimmed.jpg/120px-LA2-NSRW-2-0065_trimmed.jpg" decoding="async" width="120" height="179" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ad/LA2-NSRW-2-0065_trimmed.jpg/250px-LA2-NSRW-2-0065_trimmed.jpg 1.5x" data-file-width="1625" data-file-height="2419" /></a></span></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Middle Ages</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dress" title="Anglo-Saxon dress">Anglo-Saxon</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Byzantine_dress" title="Byzantine dress">Byzantine</a></li> <li>Chinese <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Liao_dynasty" title="Fashion in the Liao dynasty">Liao</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Jurchen_Jin_dynasty" title="Fashion in the Jurchen Jin dynasty">Jurchen Jin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Yuan_dynasty" title="Fashion in the Yuan dynasty">Yuan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fashion_in_Western_Xia" title="Fashion in Western Xia">Western Xia</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/English_medieval_clothing" title="English medieval clothing">English</a></li> <li>Europe <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dress" title="Early medieval European dress">400s–1000s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_European_fashion" title="1100–1200 in European fashion">1100s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1200%E2%80%931300_in_European_fashion" title="1200–1300 in European fashion">1200s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1300%E2%80%931400_in_European_fashion" title="1300–1400 in European fashion">1300s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion" title="1400–1500 in European fashion">1400s</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hanbok#History" title="Hanbok">Korean</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ottoman_clothing" title="Ottoman clothing">Ottoman</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tocharian_clothing" title="Tocharian clothing">Tocharian</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing#Lý_dynasty_to_Trần_dynasty_(1009–1400)" title="Vietnamese clothing">Vietnamese</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">1500s–1820s Western fashion</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_European_fashion" title="1500–1550 in European fashion">1500–1550</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_European_fashion" title="1550–1600 in European fashion">1550–1600</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_Western_fashion" title="1600–1650 in Western fashion">1600–1650</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_Western_fashion" title="1650–1700 in Western fashion">1650–1700</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion" title="1700–1750 in Western fashion">1700–1750</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion" title="1750–1775 in Western fashion">1750–1775</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1775%E2%80%931795_in_Western_fashion" title="1775–1795 in Western fashion">1775–1795</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion" title="1795–1820 in Western fashion">1795–1820</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Directoire_style" title="Directoire style">Directoire style</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1820s_in_Western_fashion" title="1820s in Western fashion">1820s</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">1830s–1910s Western fashion</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Victorian_fashion" title="Victorian fashion">Victorian</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1830s_in_Western_fashion" title="1830s in Western fashion">1830s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1840s_in_Western_fashion" title="1840s in Western fashion">1840s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1850s_in_Western_fashion" title="1850s in Western fashion">1850s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1860s_in_Western_fashion" title="1860s in Western fashion">1860s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1870s_in_Western_fashion" title="1870s in Western fashion">1870s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1880s_in_Western_fashion" title="1880s in Western fashion">1880s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1890s_in_Western_fashion" title="1890s in Western fashion">1890s</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Edwardian_era#Fashion" title="Edwardian era">Edwardian</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1900s_in_Western_fashion" title="1900s in Western fashion">1900s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1910s_in_Western_fashion" title="1910s in Western fashion">1910s</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">1920s–1950s Western fashion</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Women%27s_suffrage_and_Western_women%27s_fashion_through_the_early_20th_century" title="Women's suffrage and Western women's fashion through the early 20th century">Suffrage Movement period</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1920s_in_Western_fashion" title="1920s in Western fashion">1920s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1930%E2%80%931945_in_Western_fashion" title="1930–1945 in Western fashion">1930–1945</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1945%E2%80%931960_in_Western_fashion" title="1945–1960 in Western fashion">1945–1960</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">1960s–1990s fashion</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1960s_in_fashion" title="1960s in fashion">1960s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1970s_in_fashion" title="1970s in fashion">1970s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1980s_in_fashion" title="1980s in fashion">1980s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1990s_in_fashion" title="1990s in fashion">1990s</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">2000–present fashion</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/2000s_in_fashion" title="2000s in fashion">2000s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2010s_in_fashion" title="2010s in fashion">2010s</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2020s_in_fashion" title="2020s in fashion">2020s</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Impact_of_the_COVID-19_pandemic_on_the_fashion_industry" title="Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the fashion industry">impact of the COVID-19 pandemic</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">By country and region</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/History_of_clothing_in_the_Indian_subcontinent" title="History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent">Indian subcontinent</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_Italian_fashion" title="History of Italian fashion">Italy</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Japanese_clothing#History" title="Japanese clothing">Japan</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Japanese_clothing_during_the_Meiji_period" title="Japanese clothing during the Meiji period">Meiji</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_Thai_clothing" title="History of Thai clothing">Thailand</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion" title="History of Western fashion">Western world</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">By clothing</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/History_of_the_bikini" title="History of the bikini">Bikini</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_corsets" title="History of corsets">Corset</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_hide_materials" title="History of hide materials">Hide</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_swimwear" title="History of swimwear">Swimwear</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <!-- NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐66cb474b5d‐klfl8 Cached time: 20250407165525 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 4.899 seconds Real time usage: 5.552 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 62675/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 820043/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 20953/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 51/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1347637/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 2.496/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 23511406/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 --> <!-- Transclusion expansion time report 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