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This cruise will change your mind","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","height":450,"url":"https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.3588%2C$multiply_0.7554%2C$ratio_1.776846%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_37/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26","width":800},"keywords":"","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/inspiration/feel-like-you-ve-seen-it-all-this-cruise-will-change-your-mind-20240927-p5ke0p.html","@type":"WebPage"},"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","height":"628","url":"https://www.theage.com.au/theage.png","width":"1200"},"name":"The Age"},"isAccessibleForFree":false,"hasPart":{"@type":"WebPageElement","isAccessibleForFree":false,"cssSelector":".paywall"},"isPartOf":{"@type":["CreativeWork","Product"],"name":"The Age","productID":"theage.com.au:webonly"}}</script><title data-rh="true">South America cruise through Argentina, Uruguay, Chile and Falklands: For those who think they’ve seen it 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This cruise will change your mind</h1></div></div></header><section class="_3OhA4"><div class="_2h56q _2bGxr"><div class="_3J1te _2NJ_s"><h5 class="_3-xPQ"><span class="_3pGt1">By </span><span><span data-testid="byline"><a href="/traveller/by/brian-johnston-hvf4e" title="Articles by Brian Johnston">Brian Johnston</a></span></span></h5><div class=""> <span class="_2xetH"><time class="_2_zR-" data-testid="datetime" dateTime="2024-11-23T08:45:00+11:00">November 23, 2024 — 8.45am</time></span></div></div></div><div class="_2CSKo noPrint"><div class="_1KqZ_ _3Eavl"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>,<!-- --> <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://theage.myfairfax.com.au/channel/4vLxp6nBuWVKEPLaQuUKwA/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> <!-- -->or <a href="https://subscribe.theage.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> <!-- -->to save articles for later.</div><div><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz WUf_a _1pHo1" id="onboardingTooltip" role="tooltip"><h3>Save articles for later</h3><p>Add articles to your saved list and come back to them any time.</p><button class="_2YSi8 _17BTN _3_hLE" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="save onboarding" data-ffx-event-label="got it - part 1" data-ffx-hittype="event">Got it</button></div></div></div><div class="_2Cn91"><div class="_2KkCz"><button class="_30X7v _2-NUy" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size normal" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Normal text size</button><button class="_3Rq_0" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size large" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Larger text size</button><button class="_3VkdU" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size extra large" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Very large text size</button></div></div></div></div></section><section class="_1Rw6X" data-testid="article-body-top"><aside class="_2GZaf"><div class="_1q-_I _3sCHz"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-160x600_300x250_300x600-pos2-desktop"></div></div></div></div></aside><div class="_1ysFk" data-testid="article-body"><div><div class="_3Bdnp"><span class="_39jZS">This article is part of Traveller’s Holiday Guide to ocean cruising.</span><a class="Ad23A" data-testid="collection-promo" data-ffx-event-action="collection promo action" data-ffx-event-category="collections" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event" href="/traveller/inspiration/ocean-cruising-20230314-p5crxl.html">See all <!-- -->stories<!-- -->.</a></div><div class="_5JLqO"><div class="_1Ld7U" id="beyondwords-player"></div><div class="_3Fhwk" data-testid="showPlayerOverlay"></div></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Day one on the cruise ship Viking Jupiter in Buenos Aires and the atmosphere quivers with passion. Tango Cervila dance company has come on board. The music moans, high heels rattle the stage of the ship’s theatre, long legs extend from red dresses. I’m electrified out of my jet lag. A short pause, like the sigh of the unrequited, and then the audience stands to applaud.</p><p>This is a worthy opener to a cruise from Buenos Aires around the toe of South America to Valparaiso in Chile. I’ll find abundant passion of all sorts on this cruise. Next day we meet our local guide Agostina, who is passionate about Argentine history. She’s a diminutive firecracker with an eyebrow ring; she rolls her Rs as if about to burst into song.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Local colour in Beunos Aires." src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.246%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/1e375ce5b7bcbca009f268b2594b3b40dd7c32d2 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Local colour in Beunos Aires.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>Down in La Boca district, she and other locals are obsessed with Argentinian football heroes. Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi are plastered on T-shirts and fridge magnets, and depicted like church icons on building walls brightly painted in team colours.</p><p>Next day, I discover Uruguayans are passionate about their version of carnival, and lose themselves in drumming and dancing. We’ve docked in Montevideo, a capital with character. The old town has down-at-heel Mediterranean squares and dusty bakeries, but its stirring statues of revolutionary generals are distinctively South American.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Our guide Mirtha, whose husband is Australian, endearingly talks everything up in the habit of people from obscure countries. The Uruguayan carnival lasts longer than Brazil’s. The parliament building is a world wonder. That obelisk is beautiful! We Uruguayans are great at football!</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="A statue of Uruguayan hero General Artigas in Plaza Independencia, Montevideo." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.294%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_56%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/43308d84655f67f8dcaad19b82296f3184501a31 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">A statue of Uruguayan hero General Artigas in Plaza Independencia, Montevideo.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Alamy</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>Who doesn’t enjoy such passion? I feel I’m a convert to all things Uruguayan and, as we sail away and I tuck into a hearty Florentine steak in the ship’s Manfredi’s restaurant, I feel I must come back to Uruguay one day for more.</p><p>This Viking cruise connects disparate places: big cities, windblown ports, isolated islands. It opens on the warm, sluggish, muddy River Plate but culminates in frozen Patagonia. It sails out into the Atlantic and finishes in the Pacific. I’ve been on many cruises, but none quite like this one for variety and unexpectedness.</p><p>Buenos Aires was hot and steamy: buildings have sub-tropical stains, jacarandas flourish, lovers slump on park benches. But as Viking Jupiter slides southwards, the Argentine coast becomes dry and scrubby.</p></div></div></div></section><div class="_1FVfK"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-728x90_970x250-pos3-desktop"></div></div></div></div><section class="vPaWe" data-testid="article-body-bottom"><div class="_1ysFk"><div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>The surrounds of Puerto Madryn could be South Australia if it weren’t for the snooty guanacos, and flamingos bent like question marks above small lagoons. It could equally be a flat Wales. In Puerto Madryn I encounter another unexpected passion on a shore excursion: locals fiercely proud of their Welsh immigrant heritage.</p><p>But wistful, weary Argentina doesn’t really feel like anywhere else. It’s one of those one-of-a-kind places every traveller hopes for. Its capital has old-world glamour and dainty coffee shops, while its countryside celebrates macho cowboy culture and barbecues.</p><p>Its people are proud and passionate and don’t forget their history. At every port, we’re fervently reminded that the Islas Malvinas, or Falkland Islands, ought to be Argentine. Monuments to dead soldiers sit on every windy waterfront like sore teeth the Argentines can’t help poking.</p><p>I detect passion in the subjects of our onboard lectures: working-class heroine and president’s wife Eva Peron, legendary tango singer Carlos Gardel, former revolutionary and prisoner turned Uruguayan president Jose “Pepe” Mujica.</p><p>As we sail the Atlantic on a day at sea, guest Argentinian lecturer Kevin Saslavchik provides a balanced view of the 1982 Falklands War and its causes, in which he includes fascinating video clips including the opinions of a Falklands islander and an Argentine war veteran.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>And then we’re sailing into the Falkland Islands themselves. Low, scraped lumps of rock recede to high hills. We tender into Port Stanley past fishing ships: 50 per cent of Spain’s calamari comes from these waters.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Gentoo penguins on the beach in the Falkland Islands." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/35295305f631ccd9aa23f0e0f3f5bd60de641797 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Gentoo penguins on the beach in the Falkland Islands.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Getty Images</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>Port Stanley is, much like everywhere else in the South Atlantic – eccentric. Locals celebrate a midwinter plunge into 5C water to get a Certificate of Lunacy signed by the governor. Red pillar post boxes are still stamped with George VI’s initials. Our guide Tim lost an eye when the RAF accidentally bombed his farmhouse. Local ladies sell jam made from red teaberries, and penguins waddle on the beaches.</p><p>As we leave, two sea lions appear on the pier to bask in the sun. The light is beautiful as the ship sails, giving a glow to the low green vegetation, and a yellow sheen to the Falklands’ exposed rock, teasing out the beauty of this wild and grim place.</p><p>Patagonia is nipping at my ears and sneaking under my jacket as I pace the deck on our way back to continental South America. Viking Jupiter’s relaxed spa – a retreat of style without fuss – is the place to warm up with a plunge into its Scandinavian-style hot tub or a session in its sauna. Then I flop into the warm-water swimming pool.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>South America ends in scoured rock and salty winds, snowy mountains and smelly sea lions. We dock in Ushuaia, where tours and restaurants and shops all market themselves as The End of the World.</p><p>Buenos Aires is 3000 kilometres away, Antarctica 1000 kilometres, and a sky swollen with dark clouds presses down like a lid.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Ushuaia – the southernmost city in Argentina." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.269%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_19%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0d2e0f382e8ee36e1e5bbcf4032b7b3b10c20c26 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Ushuaia – the southernmost city in Argentina.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>The scenery is Alaskan, but Ushuaia’s bright yellow church and red-roofed buildings might have been teleported from Mexico. The wind is on a mission to blow me into the harbour. I’m surprised to discover Ushuaia was established as a penal colony. A Viking guide takes us to the old prison, a grim, cramped and frigid place that must have seemed as remote as Port Arthur in Tasmania to its 19th-century inmates.</p><p>Ushuaia is an unprepossessing town of ankle-breaking pavements, shabby buildings and an air of neglect, but it exhilarates me. The landscapes here have chilly passion. They can seduce you or, as they did to early European explorers, chew you up and spit you out.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Viking Jupiter isn’t shaken by the Strait of Magellan nor the Chilean fjords. We glide through scenery of distant mountains, volcanoes like witch’s hats, glaciers like crumbled meringue. Seabirds gather like extras in a Hitchcock movie.</p><p>I barely see a house, a boat, a sign of life. Only in the Australian outback have I seen such empty vastness. Even the ship’s officers come out on deck to stare, as if mesmerised.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Valparaiso – a rickety madness of time-worn buildings." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.256%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3fad598c66098f591c5cc5911ef0c2161e42bb4d 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Valparaiso – a rickety madness of time-worn buildings.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>Distances are big, and this cruise has quite a few days at sea. The hours seem short, however. Viking is the thinking person’s cruise company. Bookshelves are well stocked with history and travel books, and every ship hosts a resident historian. Ours is Geoff Peters, formerly of the Royal Australian Navy, who covers local history and maritime exploits and engages guest in Q&A sessions.</p><p>Guests scurry from wildlife watching to astronomy lectures, mahjong competitions to afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. One day at the Pool Grill, waiters serve churrascaria-style grilled meat as a band plays.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Chile feels different from Argentina. Punta Arenas, Ushuaia’s rival, is more polished. The tour coaches are better, the sights more tourist-trim. The town centre is full of weatherbeaten old mansions built on the wool and gold booms of the 19th century.</p><div class="ymInT _3uJpn _3by58 noPrint"><span class="_2wzgv D5idv _3lVFK"><span class="_29Qt8"></span><span class="_3qqDc">Loading</span></span></div><p>I hike into Magellan’s Strait Park with enthusiastic guide Bartolo. His passion is for birds and endemic plants, and such is his enthusiasm that I find myself becoming entranced by meadowlarks and lichens amid the outsized scenery.</p><p>Our final port, Valparaiso, in contrast to Punta Arenas, is a rickety madness of time-worn buildings, street markets and graffitied neighbourhoods that cling to steep hillsides. There’s no city planning at all, observes our local Viking guide Ervands with a chuckle, as if he approves.</p><p>But who cares? Valparaiso too has passion. You can see it in the explosion of street art, the wanton bougainvillaea, the blaring music and mad clamour in every plaza. This is a city unlike any of the others we’ve visited: a suitable end to a cruise for those who think they’ve seen it all.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><h3><b>THE DETAILS</b></h3><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Viking Jupiter at sea." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.565%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_313/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/0667986f6122ac551cdcce3e372f897096f070d4 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Viking Jupiter at sea.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p><b>CRUISE<br/></b>Viking Cruises’ 18-day South America & Chilean Fjords cruise between Buenos Aires and Santiago (Valparaiso) visits Argentina, Uruguay, the Falkland Islands and Chile, and sails iconic maritime destinations such as the Beagle Channel, Cape Horn and the Strait of Magellan.</p><p><b>BOOK<br/></b>There are eight departures between November 2024 and March 2025, from $9995 a person including accommodation, all meals and meal-time drinks, Wi-Fi, gratuities and a complimentary shore excursion in each port. See<a href="https://www.vikingcruises.com.au/oceans/cruise-destinations/caribbean-americas/south-america-chilean-fjords/index.html"> vikingcruises.com.au</a></p><p><b>MORE<br/></b><a href="https://www.argentina.travel/en">argentina.travel</a><br/><a href="https://uruguaynatural.com/en/">uruguaynatural.com</a><br/><a href="https://www.falklandislands.com/">falklandislands.com</a><br/><a href="https://www.chile.travel/en/">chile.travel</a></p></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p><i>The writer was a guest of Viking Cruises.</i></p></div></div><div class="noPrint"><div></div><div></div><div class="_1vwTE _2cBGs"><button class="YmeiI" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O" focusable="false" height="12" width="12"><use xlink:href="#icon-info"></use></svg><span>How we travel</span></button></div><div class="_1JIy2 rZpFN"><p class="VCnAR">Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter</p><p>Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your 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America is an overlooked cruise destination, but nowhere gives you the chance to sail to more varied destinations.\",\"allowComments\":false,\"body\":\"<p>Day one on the cruise ship Viking Jupiter in Buenos Aires and the atmosphere quivers with passion. Tango Cervila dance company has come on board. The music moans, high heels rattle the stage of the ship\\u2019s theatre, long legs extend from red dresses. I\\u2019m electrified out of my jet lag. A short pause, like the sigh of the unrequited, and then the audience stands to applaud.</p><p>This is a worthy opener to a cruise from Buenos Aires around the toe of South America to Valparaiso in Chile. I\\u2019ll find abundant passion of all sorts on this cruise. Next day we meet our local guide Agostina, who is passionate about Argentine history. She\\u2019s a diminutive firecracker with an eyebrow ring; she rolls her Rs as if about to burst into song.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"cac45c2cdd422afeffab974cbfe135921ab4764f\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Down in La Boca district, she and other locals are obsessed with Argentinian football heroes. Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi are plastered on T-shirts and fridge magnets, and depicted like church icons on building walls brightly painted in team colours.</p><p>Next day, I discover Uruguayans are passionate about their version of carnival, and lose themselves in drumming and dancing. We\\u2019ve docked in Montevideo, a capital with character. The old town has down-at-heel Mediterranean squares and dusty bakeries, but its stirring statues of revolutionary generals are distinctively South American.</p><p>Our guide Mirtha, whose husband is Australian, endearingly talks everything up in the habit of people from obscure countries. The Uruguayan carnival lasts longer than Brazil\\u2019s. The parliament building is a world wonder. That obelisk is beautiful! We Uruguayans are great at football!</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"c4a15f13b35e0a16d5a3b65e91ae6413f6a20d7a\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Who doesn\\u2019t enjoy such passion? I feel I\\u2019m a convert to all things Uruguayan and, as we sail away and I tuck into a hearty Florentine steak in the ship\\u2019s Manfredi\\u2019s restaurant, I feel I must come back to Uruguay one day for more.</p><p>This Viking cruise connects disparate places: big cities, windblown ports, isolated islands. It opens on the warm, sluggish, muddy River Plate but culminates in frozen Patagonia. It sails out into the Atlantic and finishes in the Pacific. I\\u2019ve been on many cruises, but none quite like this one for variety and unexpectedness.</p><p>Buenos Aires was hot and steamy: buildings have sub-tropical stains, jacarandas flourish, lovers slump on park benches. But as Viking Jupiter slides southwards, the Argentine coast becomes dry and scrubby.</p><p>The surrounds of Puerto Madryn could be South Australia if it weren\\u2019t for the snooty guanacos, and flamingos bent like question marks above small lagoons. It could equally be a flat Wales. In Puerto Madryn I encounter another unexpected passion on a shore excursion: locals fiercely proud of their Welsh immigrant heritage.</p><p>But wistful, weary Argentina doesn\\u2019t really feel like anywhere else. It\\u2019s one of those one-of-a-kind places every traveller hopes for. Its capital has old-world glamour and dainty coffee shops, while its countryside celebrates macho cowboy culture and barbecues.</p><p>Its people are proud and passionate and don\\u2019t forget their history. At every port, we\\u2019re fervently reminded that the Islas Malvinas, or Falkland Islands, ought to be Argentine. Monuments to dead soldiers sit on every windy waterfront like sore teeth the Argentines can\\u2019t help poking.</p><p>I detect passion in the subjects of our onboard lectures: working-class heroine and president\\u2019s wife Eva Peron, legendary tango singer Carlos Gardel, former revolutionary and prisoner turned Uruguayan president Jose \\u201CPepe\\u201D Mujica.</p><p>As we sail the Atlantic on a day at sea, guest Argentinian lecturer Kevin Saslavchik provides a balanced view of the 1982 Falklands War and its causes, in which he includes fascinating video clips including the opinions of a Falklands islander and an Argentine war veteran.</p><p>And then we\\u2019re sailing into the Falkland Islands themselves. Low, scraped lumps of rock recede to high hills. We tender into Port Stanley past fishing ships: 50 per cent of Spain\\u2019s calamari comes from these waters.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"985dcc17d5ee1f54af362514d42c611e2a6f9007\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Port Stanley is, much like everywhere else in the South Atlantic \\u2013 eccentric. Locals celebrate a midwinter plunge into 5C water to get a Certificate of Lunacy signed by the governor. Red pillar post boxes are still stamped with George VI\\u2019s initials. Our guide Tim lost an eye when the RAF accidentally bombed his farmhouse. Local ladies sell jam made from red teaberries, and penguins waddle on the beaches.</p><p>As we leave, two sea lions appear on the pier to bask in the sun. The light is beautiful as the ship sails, giving a glow to the low green vegetation, and a yellow sheen to the Falklands\\u2019 exposed rock, teasing out the beauty of this wild and grim place.</p><p>Patagonia is nipping at my ears and sneaking under my jacket as I pace the deck on our way back to continental South America. Viking Jupiter\\u2019s relaxed spa \\u2013 a retreat of style without fuss \\u2013 is the place to warm up with a plunge into its Scandinavian-style hot tub or a session in its sauna. Then I flop into the warm-water swimming pool.</p><p>South America ends in scoured rock and salty winds, snowy mountains and smelly sea lions. We dock in Ushuaia, where tours and restaurants and shops all market themselves as The End of the World.</p><p>Buenos Aires is 3000 kilometres away, Antarctica 1000 kilometres, and a sky swollen with dark clouds presses down like a lid.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"f01729afe96e8af656fb9b693bcd37e21a2af6aa\\\"></x-placeholder><p>The scenery is Alaskan, but Ushuaia\\u2019s bright yellow church and red-roofed buildings might have been teleported from Mexico. The wind is on a mission to blow me into the harbour. I\\u2019m surprised to discover Ushuaia was established as a penal colony. A Viking guide takes us to the old prison, a grim, cramped and frigid place that must have seemed as remote as Port Arthur in Tasmania to its 19th-century inmates.</p><p>Ushuaia is an unprepossessing town of ankle-breaking pavements, shabby buildings and an air of neglect, but it exhilarates me. The landscapes here have chilly passion. They can seduce you or, as they did to early European explorers, chew you up and spit you out.</p><p>Viking Jupiter isn\\u2019t shaken by the Strait of Magellan nor the Chilean fjords. We glide through scenery of distant mountains, volcanoes like witch\\u2019s hats, glaciers like crumbled meringue. Seabirds gather like extras in a Hitchcock movie.</p><p>I barely see a house, a boat, a sign of life. Only in the Australian outback have I seen such empty vastness. Even the ship\\u2019s officers come out on deck to stare, as if mesmerised.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"0c9d62ecc67f18b667df4179f8d8af70096a2610\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Distances are big, and this cruise has quite a few days at sea. The hours seem short, however. Viking is the thinking person\\u2019s cruise company. Bookshelves are well stocked with history and travel books, and every ship hosts a resident historian. Ours is Geoff Peters, formerly of the Royal Australian Navy, who covers local history and maritime exploits and engages guest in Q&A sessions.</p><p>Guests scurry from wildlife watching to astronomy lectures, mahjong competitions to afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. One day at the Pool Grill, waiters serve churrascaria-style grilled meat as a band plays.</p><p>Chile feels different from Argentina. Punta Arenas, Ushuaia\\u2019s rival, is more polished. The tour coaches are better, the sights more tourist-trim. The town centre is full of weatherbeaten old mansions built on the wool and gold booms of the 19th century.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"ec5e019770c2a0fb41cfdbd8458a90e4996474ff\\\"></x-placeholder><p>I hike into Magellan\\u2019s Strait Park with enthusiastic guide Bartolo. His passion is for birds and endemic plants, and such is his enthusiasm that I find myself becoming entranced by meadowlarks and lichens amid the outsized scenery.</p><p>Our final port, Valparaiso, in contrast to Punta Arenas, is a rickety madness of time-worn buildings, street markets and graffitied neighbourhoods that cling to steep hillsides. There\\u2019s no city planning at all, observes our local Viking guide Ervands with a chuckle, as if he approves.</p><p>But who cares? Valparaiso too has passion. You can see it in the explosion of street art, the wanton bougainvillaea, the blaring music and mad clamour in every plaza. This is a city unlike any of the others we\\u2019ve visited: a suitable end to a cruise for those who think they\\u2019ve seen it all.</p><h3><b>THE DETAILS</b></h3><x-placeholder id=\\\"958e5bee0ed60f55af224bf22808cecd782bfafc\\\"></x-placeholder><p><b>CRUISE<br /></b>Viking Cruises\\u2019 18-day South America & Chilean Fjords cruise between Buenos Aires and Santiago (Valparaiso) visits Argentina, Uruguay, the Falkland Islands and Chile, and sails iconic maritime destinations such as the Beagle Channel, Cape Horn and the Strait of Magellan.</p><p><b>BOOK<br /></b>There are eight departures between November 2024 and March 2025, from $9995 a person including accommodation, all meals and meal-time drinks, Wi-Fi, gratuities and a complimentary shore excursion in each port. 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