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Dans la cité champenoise, chefs et sommeliers puisent dans un large éventail de cépages pour créer d’inédites et parfois surprenantes associations de saveurs.</p></section> </section> </div> </section> <section class="article__content article__content--restricted"> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Reims connaît la même effervescence que son vin. L’office du tourisme évoque 7,5 millions de visiteurs en 2023 dans la ville et les vignobles alentour, soit 50 % de plus qu’en 2022. Et les pèlerins de la bulle voient naturellement s’ouvrir à eux de nouvelles offres, dans des établissements de haut standing comme dans des comptoirs bon marché, qui réinventent l’accord mets-champagne en toute décontraction.</p> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">La métamorphose la plus spectaculaire a lieu dans les grandes maisons viticoles. Face à l’afflux de touristes vers les crayères – les galeries souterraines où sont conservés les vins –, un peu excentrées, presque toutes ont récemment créé des espaces de restauration. G.H. Mumm a lancé en 2023 une<em> </em>Table des chefs, invitant de grandes toques à des résidences, inaugurées par Mallory Gabsi, révélé par « Top Chef » en 2020. Dans son tout nouveau bâtiment à l’impressionnante façade de verre, Ruinart propose aussi de picorer au bar du pâté croûte ou des madeleines maison en vidant quelques coupes. Taittinger compte pour sa part ouvrir un grand restaurant l’année prochaine.</p> <div id="inread_top" class="dfp-slot dfp__slot dfp__inread dfp-unloaded" data-format="inread_top" aria-hidden="true"></div> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Pour l’heure, la marque propose à ses visiteurs de s’asseoir autour d’une longue table à l’issue de la visite pour découvrir quelques verrines imaginées par le virtuose Philippe Mille. On se régale d’un <em>« caviar de bonbon »</em>, présenté dans une petite boîte en métal Kaviari, mais renfermant des perles de tapioca sur une compote de prune. Les bouchées sont proposées avec deux coupes, l’une de champagne millésimé, l’autre de champagne rosé, et une guide invite chaque convive à donner ses impressions sur les accords, sans porter de jugement sur les préférences de chacun.</p> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">C’est la philosophie qui commence à s’imposer : décomplexer la consommation du vin effervescent. Et à cet exercice, la maison Veuve Clicquot fait encore plus fort. On peut depuis l’année dernière se prélasser sur la grande terrasse en bois du Café Clicquot, à l’ombre de parasols jaune citron. Et que propose la marque pour accompagner son précieux liquide ? Des tartines ! Mais pas n’importe lesquelles, taillées largement dans un pain local, dense, parsemées, par exemple, de pleurotes, de noisettes et de magret de canard, parfumées à la truffe et à la crème de champignons. Le café fait un carton : près de 500 couverts par jour cet été.</p> <figure class="article__media article__media--wide"> <img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 664 443'%3E%3C/svg%3E" data-srcset=" https://img.lemde.fr/2024/10/29/0/0/4230/2953/1920/0/75/0/e51b1c4_1730212289973-web-veuvecliquot.jpg 1x, https://img.lemde.fr/2024/10/29/0/0/4230/2953/3840/0/45/0/e51b1c4_1730212289973-web-veuvecliquot.jpg 2x, https://img.lemde.fr/2024/10/29/0/0/4230/2953/5760/0/45/0/e51b1c4_1730212289973-web-veuvecliquot.jpg 3x, https://img.lemde.fr/2024/10/29/0/0/4230/2953/7680/0/45/0/e51b1c4_1730212289973-web-veuvecliquot.jpg 4x" width="664" height="443" alt="A gauche : la terrasse du Café Clicquot, à Reims, le 24 octobre 2024. A droite : tartine au potimarron, gorgonzola, noix, miel, cannelle et muscade, accompagnée d’un champagne rosé."> <noscript><img src="https://img.lemde.fr/2024/10/29/0/0/4230/2953/1920/0/75/0/e51b1c4_1730212289973-web-veuvecliquot.jpg" alt="A gauche : la terrasse du Café Clicquot, à Reims, le 24 octobre 2024. A droite : tartine au potimarron, gorgonzola, noix, miel, cannelle et muscade, accompagnée d’un champagne rosé."></noscript> <figcaption class="article__legend" aria-hidden="true">A gauche : la terrasse du Café Clicquot, à Reims, le 24 octobre 2024. A droite : tartine au potimarron, gorgonzola, noix, miel, cannelle et muscade, accompagnée d’un champagne rosé. <span class="article__credit" aria-hidden="true">ASTRID COURTIER POUR « LE MONDE »</span> </figcaption> </figure> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Dans les plus prestigieux établissements, nouveaux chefs et vétérans approfondissent le lien de l’assiette à la vigne. Christophe Moret, depuis quelques mois aux commandes des cuisines du domaine Les Crayères (comprenant le restaurant gastronomique Le Parc et la brasserie Le Jardin), est épaté par l’éventail des champagnes conservés sur place (près de 1 300 références !), souvent servis au verre. <em>« Le champagne offre plus de variétés et de possibilités que le vin</em>, estime le chef<em>. Lui peut fonctionner sur une vinaigrette, car son effervescence tranche dans l’acidité ; ou avec des asperges, si on joue sur la minéralité, le côté terreux, de certaines bouteilles. Mais un champagne rosé peut aussi fonctionner avec un gibier à plume : pour accompagner une quenelle de faisan sauce Albuféra, riche en foie gras, on propose un cru de Laurent Perrier qui donne beaucoup de vivacité au plat ! »</em></p> <p class="reading-mode-only "><strong>Il vous reste 59.62% de cet article à lire. 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