CINXE.COM

<!doctype html> <html lang="en" class="no-js b-pw-1280 b-reith-sans-font b-reith-serif-font b-reith-serif-loaded b-reith-sans-loaded"> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=HxkREWBo" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("https://www.bbc.com/travel","20211027090810","https://web.archive.org/","web","/_static/", "1635325690"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=S1zqJCYt" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta data-rh="true" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/><meta data-rh="true" charset="utf-8"/><meta data-rh="true" name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta data-rh="true" name="google-site-verification" content="I0_h0oRDIOewanIX2SQEN0-dHGdH6uBQT7V9l_WqRY8"/><meta data-rh="true" name="keywords" content="INDEX"/><meta data-rh="true" name="description" content="The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing."/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:type" content="website"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:width" content="624"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:height" content="351"/><meta data-rh="true" property="fb:pages" content="147105585468223"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:site" content="@bbc_travel"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/> <title data-rh="true">Home - BBC Travel</title> <link data-rh="true" rel="canonical" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><link data-rh="true" rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="180x180" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/travel/apple-touch-icon.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="32x32" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/travel/favicon-32x32.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="16x16" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/travel/favicon-16x16.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="shortcut icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/travel/favicon.ico"/><link data-rh="true" rel="mask-icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/travel/safari-pinned-tab.svg" color="#063d90"/><link data-rh="true" rel="manifest" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/worklife/assets/travel/site.webmanifest"/> <script> window.orb_fig_blocking = true; </script> <script type="text/javascript"> /* IE11 polyfills */ if (!('values' in Object)) { Object.prototype.constructor.values = function(o) { if (typeof o !== 'object') return console.error('not an object') return Object.keys(o).map(function(k) { return o[k] }) } } if (!('find' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.find = function(fn) { for (let i = 0; i < this.length; i += 1) { if (fn.call(this, this[i], i)) return this[i]; } return undefined; } } if (!('includes' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.includes = function(search) { return this.indexOf(search) > -1 } } </script> <script>document.documentElement.className = document.documentElement.className.replace('no-js', '');</script>   <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"> <style> :root { --bbc-font: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; --bbc-font-legacy: Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; } </style> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/css/orb-ltr.min.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/require.min.js"></script> <script> // nav-orbit-pollyfills // Promise polyfill from https://github.com/bramstein/promis (function(){'use strict';var f,g=[];function l(a){g.push(a);1==g.length&&f()}function m(){for(;g.length;)g[0](),g.shift()}f=function(){setTimeout(m)};function n(a){this.a=p;this.b=void 0;this.f=[];var b=this;try{a(function(a){q(b,a)},function(a){r(b,a)})}catch(c){r(b,c)}}var p=2;function t(a){return new n(function(b,c){c(a)})}function u(a){return new n(function(b){b(a)})}function q(a,b){if(a.a==p){if(b==a)throw new TypeError;var c=!1;try{var d=b&&b.then;if(null!=b&&"object"==typeof b&&"function"==typeof d){d.call(b,function(b){c||q(a,b);c=!0},function(b){c||r(a,b);c=!0});return}}catch(e){c||r(a,e);return}a.a=0;a.b=b;v(a)}} function r(a,b){if(a.a==p){if(b==a)throw new TypeError;a.a=1;a.b=b;v(a)}}function v(a){l(function(){if(a.a!=p)for(;a.f.length;){var b=a.f.shift(),c=b[0],d=b[1],e=b[2],b=b[3];try{0==a.a?"function"==typeof c?e(c.call(void 0,a.b)):e(a.b):1==a.a&&("function"==typeof d?e(d.call(void 0,a.b)):b(a.b))}catch(h){b(h)}}})}n.prototype.g=function(a){return this.c(void 0,a)};n.prototype.c=function(a,b){var c=this;return new n(function(d,e){c.f.push([a,b,d,e]);v(c)})}; function w(a){return new n(function(b,c){function d(c){return function(d){h[c]=d;e+=1;e==a.length&&b(h)}}var e=0,h=[];0==a.length&&b(h);for(var k=0;k<a.length;k+=1)u(a[k]).c(d(k),c)})}function x(a){return new n(function(b,c){for(var d=0;d<a.length;d+=1)u(a[d]).c(b,c)})};window.Promise||(window.Promise=n,window.Promise.resolve=u,window.Promise.reject=t,window.Promise.race=x,window.Promise.all=w,window.Promise.prototype.then=n.prototype.c,window.Promise.prototype["catch"]=n.prototype.g);}()); // Polyfill Event constructor for IE ref: ORBITEN-919 // see: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/26596123 (function () { if (typeof window.CustomEvent === "function") { return false; } function CustomEvent(event, params) { params = params || { bubbles: false, cancelable: false, detail: undefined }; var evt = document.createEvent('CustomEvent'); evt.initCustomEvent(event, params.bubbles, params.cancelable, params.detail); return evt; } CustomEvent.prototype = window.Event.prototype; window.Event = CustomEvent; })(); //Element.prototype.matches polyfill //from https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/Element/matches#Polyfill if (!Element.prototype.matches) { Element.prototype.matches = Element.prototype.msMatchesSelector || Element.prototype.webkitMatchesSelector; } //NodeList.forEach Polyfill //from https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/NodeList/forEach#Polyfill if (window.NodeList && !NodeList.prototype.forEach) { NodeList.prototype.forEach = Array.prototype.forEach; } // Object.assign polyfill from https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/JavaScript/Reference/Global_Objects/Object/assign#Polyfill if (typeof Object.assign != 'function') { // Must be writable: true, enumerable: false, configurable: true Object.defineProperty(Object, "assign", { value: function assign(target, varArgs) { // .length of function is 2 'use strict'; if (target == null) { // TypeError if undefined or null throw new TypeError('Cannot convert undefined or null to object'); } var to = Object(target); for (var index = 1; index < arguments.length; index++) { var nextSource = arguments[index]; if (nextSource != null) { // Skip over if undefined or null for (var nextKey in nextSource) { // Avoid bugs when hasOwnProperty is shadowed if (Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(nextSource, nextKey)) { to[nextKey] = nextSource[nextKey]; } } } } return to; }, writable: true, configurable: true }); } // window.fetch polyfill https://github.com/github/fetch/blob/v0.11.0/fetch.js - chosen for IE9 compatibility if(typeof window.fetch !== 'function') { (function(self){"use strict";if(self.fetch){return}function normalizeName(name){if(typeof name!=="string"){name=String(name)}if(/[^a-z0-9\-#$%&'*+.\^_`|~]/i.test(name)){throw new TypeError("Invalid character in header field name")}return name.toLowerCase()}function normalizeValue(value){if(typeof value!=="string"){value=String(value)}return value}function Headers(headers){this.map={};if(headers instanceof Headers){headers.forEach(function(value,name){this.append(name,value)},this)}else if(headers){Object.getOwnPropertyNames(headers).forEach(function(name){this.append(name,headers[name])},this)}}Headers.prototype.append=function(name,value){name=normalizeName(name);value=normalizeValue(value);var list=this.map[name];if(!list){list=[];this.map[name]=list}list.push(value)};Headers.prototype["delete"]=function(name){delete this.map[normalizeName(name)]};Headers.prototype.get=function(name){var values=this.map[normalizeName(name)];return values?values[0]:null};Headers.prototype.getAll=function(name){return this.map[normalizeName(name)]||[]};Headers.prototype.has=function(name){return this.map.hasOwnProperty(normalizeName(name))};Headers.prototype.set=function(name,value){this.map[normalizeName(name)]=[normalizeValue(value)]};Headers.prototype.forEach=function(callback,thisArg){Object.getOwnPropertyNames(this.map).forEach(function(name){this.map[name].forEach(function(value){callback.call(thisArg,value,name,this)},this)},this)};function consumed(body){if(body.bodyUsed){return Promise.reject(new TypeError("Already read"))}body.bodyUsed=true}function fileReaderReady(reader){return new Promise(function(resolve,reject){reader.onload=function(){resolve(reader.result)};reader.onerror=function(){reject(reader.error)}})}function readBlobAsArrayBuffer(blob){var reader=new FileReader;reader.readAsArrayBuffer(blob);return fileReaderReady(reader)}function readBlobAsText(blob){var reader=new FileReader;reader.readAsText(blob);return fileReaderReady(reader)}var support={blob:"FileReader"in self&&"Blob"in self&&function(){try{new Blob;return true}catch(e){return false}}(),formData:"FormData"in self,arrayBuffer:"ArrayBuffer"in self};function Body(){this.bodyUsed=false;this._initBody=function(body){this._bodyInit=body;if(typeof body==="string"){this._bodyText=body}else if(support.blob&&Blob.prototype.isPrototypeOf(body)){this._bodyBlob=body}else if(support.formData&&FormData.prototype.isPrototypeOf(body)){this._bodyFormData=body}else if(!body){this._bodyText=""}else if(support.arrayBuffer&&ArrayBuffer.prototype.isPrototypeOf(body)){}else{throw new Error("unsupported BodyInit type")}if(!this.headers.get("content-type")){if(typeof body==="string"){this.headers.set("content-type","text/plain;charset=UTF-8")}else if(this._bodyBlob&&this._bodyBlob.type){this.headers.set("content-type",this._bodyBlob.type)}}};if(support.blob){this.blob=function(){var rejected=consumed(this);if(rejected){return rejected}if(this._bodyBlob){return Promise.resolve(this._bodyBlob)}else if(this._bodyFormData){throw new Error("could not read FormData body as blob")}else{return Promise.resolve(new Blob([this._bodyText]))}};this.arrayBuffer=function(){return this.blob().then(readBlobAsArrayBuffer)};this.text=function(){var rejected=consumed(this);if(rejected){return rejected}if(this._bodyBlob){return readBlobAsText(this._bodyBlob)}else if(this._bodyFormData){throw new Error("could not read FormData body as text")}else{return Promise.resolve(this._bodyText)}}}else{this.text=function(){var rejected=consumed(this);return rejected?rejected:Promise.resolve(this._bodyText)}}if(support.formData){this.formData=function(){return this.text().then(decode)}}this.json=function(){return this.text().then(JSON.parse)};return this}var methods=["DELETE","GET","HEAD","OPTIONS","POST","PUT"];function normalizeMethod(method){var upcased=method.toUpperCase();return methods.indexOf(upcased)>-1?upcased:method}function Request(input,options){options=options||{};var body=options.body;if(Request.prototype.isPrototypeOf(input)){if(input.bodyUsed){throw new TypeError("Already read")}this.url=input.url;this.credentials=input.credentials;if(!options.headers){this.headers=new Headers(input.headers)}this.method=input.method;this.mode=input.mode;if(!body){body=input._bodyInit;input.bodyUsed=true}}else{this.url=input}this.credentials=options.credentials||this.credentials||"omit";if(options.headers||!this.headers){this.headers=new Headers(options.headers)}this.method=normalizeMethod(options.method||this.method||"GET");this.mode=options.mode||this.mode||null;this.referrer=null;if((this.method==="GET"||this.method==="HEAD")&&body){throw new TypeError("Body not allowed for GET or HEAD requests")}this._initBody(body)}Request.prototype.clone=function(){return new Request(this)};function decode(body){var form=new FormData;body.trim().split("&").forEach(function(bytes){if(bytes){var split=bytes.split("=");var name=split.shift().replace(/\+/g," ");var value=split.join("=").replace(/\+/g," ");form.append(decodeURIComponent(name),decodeURIComponent(value))}});return form}function headers(xhr){var head=new Headers;var pairs=xhr.getAllResponseHeaders().trim().split("\n");pairs.forEach(function(header){var split=header.trim().split(":");var key=split.shift().trim();var value=split.join(":").trim();head.append(key,value)});return head}Body.call(Request.prototype);function Response(bodyInit,options){if(!options){options={}}this.type="default";this.status=options.status;this.ok=this.status>=200&&this.status<300;this.statusText=options.statusText;this.headers=options.headers instanceof Headers?options.headers:new Headers(options.headers);this.url=options.url||"";this._initBody(bodyInit)}Body.call(Response.prototype);Response.prototype.clone=function(){return new Response(this._bodyInit,{status:this.status,statusText:this.statusText,headers:new Headers(this.headers),url:this.url})};Response.error=function(){var response=new Response(null,{status:0,statusText:""});response.type="error";return response};var redirectStatuses=[301,302,303,307,308];Response.redirect=function(url,status){if(redirectStatuses.indexOf(status)===-1){throw new RangeError("Invalid status code")}return new Response(null,{status:status,headers:{location:url}})};self.Headers=Headers;self.Request=Request;self.Response=Response;self.fetch=function(input,init){return new Promise(function(resolve,reject){var request;if(Request.prototype.isPrototypeOf(input)&&!init){request=input}else{request=new Request(input,init)}var xhr=new XMLHttpRequest;function responseURL(){if("responseURL"in xhr){return xhr.responseURL}if(/^X-Request-URL:/m.test(xhr.getAllResponseHeaders())){return xhr.getResponseHeader("X-Request-URL")}return}xhr.onload=function(){var status=xhr.status===1223?204:xhr.status;if(status<100||status>599){reject(new TypeError("Network request failed"));return}var options={status:status,statusText:xhr.statusText,headers:headers(xhr),url:responseURL()};var body="response"in xhr?xhr.response:xhr.responseText;resolve(new Response(body,options))};xhr.onerror=function(){reject(new TypeError("Network request failed"))};xhr.open(request.method,request.url,true);if(request.credentials==="include"){xhr.withCredentials=true}if("responseType"in xhr&&support.blob){xhr.responseType="blob"}request.headers.forEach(function(value,name){xhr.setRequestHeader(name,value)});xhr.send(typeof request._bodyInit==="undefined"?null:request._bodyInit)})};self.fetch.polyfill=true})(typeof self!=="undefined"?self:this); } if (typeof window.CustomEvent !== 'function') { function CustomEvent(event, params) { params = params || { bubbles: false, cancelable: false, detail: null }; var evt = document.createEvent('CustomEvent'); evt.initCustomEvent(event, params.bubbles, params.cancelable, params.detail); return evt; } CustomEvent.prototype = window.Event.prototype; window.CustomEvent = CustomEvent; } </script> <script> window.orbitData = {}; var additionalPageProperties = {}; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_5'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_1'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_3'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_9'] = '1' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_10'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_6'] = '' || null; window.orbitData.userProfileUrl = "https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/userprofile"; window.page = { name: 'travel.page' || null, destination: 'FEATURE_SITES_GNL' || null, producer: 'GNL_TRAVEL' || null, section: '' || null, site: '' || null, contentId: '' || null, contentType: 'index-home' || null, edition: '' || null, additionalProperties: additionalPageProperties }; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.modal = false; !function(){var t={3053:function(t,r,e){function n(t,r){var e=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);r&&(n=n.filter((function(r){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,r).enumerable}))),e.push.apply(e,n)}return e}function o(t){for(var r=1;r<arguments.length;r++){var e=null!=arguments[r]?arguments[r]:{};r%2?n(Object(e),!0).forEach((function(r){i(t,r,e[r])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(e)):n(Object(e)).forEach((function(r){Object.defineProperty(t,r,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(e,r))}))}return t}function i(t,r,e){return r in t?Object.defineProperty(t,r,{value:e,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[r]=e,t}var c=e(1391),a=e(9135);window.bbcpage=c.init(o({},window.page)),window.page=void 0,window.bbcuser=a.init(window,o({},window.user))},1391:function(t){function r(t,r){var e=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);r&&(n=n.filter((function(r){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,r).enumerable}))),e.push.apply(e,n)}return e}function e(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var o=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?r(Object(o),!0).forEach((function(r){n(t,r,o[r])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(o)):r(Object(o)).forEach((function(r){Object.defineProperty(t,r,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(o,r))}))}return t}function n(t,r,e){return r in t?Object.defineProperty(t,r,{value:e,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[r]=e,t}t.exports={init:function(t){var r=e({},t);return document.addEventListener("bbc-page-reset",(function(t){var e;t.detail&&t.detail.page&&(e=t.detail.page,r=Object.assign(r,e)),document.dispatchEvent(new Event("bbc-page-updated"))})),{getName:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.name||function(){if("file:"===window.location.protocol)return"local.file";var t=window.location.pathname.replace(/\/$/,"").replace(/^\//,"").replace(/\//g,".");return"".concat(t,".page")}())},getLanguage:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.language)},getDestination:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.destination)},getProducer:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.producer)},getSection:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.section)},getContentType:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.contentType)},getContentId:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.contentId)},getReferrer:function(){return Promise.resolve(window.orb&&null!==window.orb.referrer&&void 0!==window.orb.referrer?window.orb.referrer:document.referrer)},getAdditionalProperties:function(){return Promise.resolve(e({},r.additionalProperties))},loadCSS:function(t){return new Promise((function(r,e){var n=document.createElement("link");n.type="text/css",n.rel="stylesheet",n.onload=function(){r()},n.href=t,document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(n)}))},isModal:function(){return Promise.resolve(r.modal)}}}}},9135:function(t){function r(t){return(r="function"==typeof Symbol&&"symbol"==typeof Symbol.iterator?function(t){return typeof t}:function(t){return t&&"function"==typeof Symbol&&t.constructor===Symbol&&t!==Symbol.prototype?"symbol":typeof t})(t)}function e(t,r){var e=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);r&&(n=n.filter((function(r){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,r).enumerable}))),e.push.apply(e,n)}return e}function n(t){for(var r=1;r<arguments.length;r++){var n=null!=arguments[r]?arguments[r]:{};r%2?e(Object(n),!0).forEach((function(r){o(t,r,n[r])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(n)):e(Object(n)).forEach((function(r){Object.defineProperty(t,r,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(n,r))}))}return t}function o(t,r,e){return r in t?Object.defineProperty(t,r,{value:e,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[r]=e,t}function i(t,r){if(!(t instanceof r))throw new TypeError("Cannot call a class as a function")}function c(t,e){return!e||"object"!==r(e)&&"function"!=typeof e?function(t){if(void 0===t)throw new ReferenceError("this hasn't been initialised - super() hasn't been called");return t}(t):e}function a(t){var r="function"==typeof Map?new Map:void 0;return(a=function(t){if(null===t||(e=t,-1===Function.toString.call(e).indexOf("[native code]")))return t;var e;if("function"!=typeof t)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");if(void 0!==r){if(r.has(t))return r.get(t);r.set(t,n)}function n(){return u(t,arguments,l(this).constructor)}return n.prototype=Object.create(t.prototype,{constructor:{value:n,enumerable:!1,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),f(n,t)})(t)}function u(t,r,e){return(u=s()?Reflect.construct:function(t,r,e){var n=[null];n.push.apply(n,r);var o=new(Function.bind.apply(t,n));return e&&f(o,e.prototype),o}).apply(null,arguments)}function s(){if("undefined"==typeof Reflect||!Reflect.construct)return!1;if(Reflect.construct.sham)return!1;if("function"==typeof Proxy)return!0;try{return Boolean.prototype.valueOf.call(Reflect.construct(Boolean,[],(function(){}))),!0}catch(t){return!1}}function f(t,r){return(f=Object.setPrototypeOf||function(t,r){return t.__proto__=r,t})(t,r)}function l(t){return(l=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.getPrototypeOf:function(t){return t.__proto__||Object.getPrototypeOf(t)})(t)}var p=function(t){!function(t,r){if("function"!=typeof r&&null!==r)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");t.prototype=Object.create(r&&r.prototype,{constructor:{value:t,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),r&&f(t,r)}(o,t);var r,e,n=(r=o,e=s(),function(){var t,n=l(r);if(e){var o=l(this).constructor;t=Reflect.construct(n,arguments,o)}else t=n.apply(this,arguments);return c(this,t)});function o(){return i(this,o),n.apply(this,arguments)}return o}(a(Error));function h(t){return new Promise((function(r,e){window.require(t,(function(){r.apply(this,arguments)}),(function(t){e(t)}))}))}t.exports={init:function(t,r){var e,o=n({},r),i=null;function c(){if(["X-Country","X-Ip_is_advertise_combined","X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].every((function(t){return!!o[t]})))return Promise.resolve(o);if(!i){var r=t.location.hostname.endsWith(".com")?"com":"co.uk";i=t.fetch("https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.".concat(r,"/userinfo")).then((function(t){return t.json()}))}return i}function a(t){if(t.status>=200&&t.status<300)return t;var r=new Error(t.statusText);throw r.response=t,r}function u(t){return t.json()}function s(){if(o.ageBand)return Promise.resolve(o);if(!e){if("undefined"==typeof XMLHttpRequest||!("withCredentials"in new XMLHttpRequest))return Promise.resolve(o);e=h(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(r){return r.initiateTokenRefresh().then((function(){return t.fetch(t.orbitData.userProfileUrl,{credentials:"include"}).then(a).then(u).then((function(t){return o=n(n({},o),t)}))}))}))}return e}var f={getHashedId:function(){return h(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t.getCookieInstance().getHidFromCookie()}))},isSignedIn:function(){return h(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t&&t.getCookieInstance().hasCookie()}))},getCountry:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Country"]||"gb"}))},isUKCombined:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"])throw new p("missing isUKCombined from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},canSeeAdverts:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"])throw new p("missing canSeeAdverts from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},getAgeBand:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Age-Band"]?Promise.resolve(t["X-Age-Band"]):f.isSignedIn().then((function(t){if(t)return s().then((function(t){return o["X-Age-Band"]=t["X-Age-Band"],o["X-Age-Band"]||void 0})).catch((function(){return o["X-Age-Band"]||void 0}))}))}))},allowsPerformanceCookies:function(){return h(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("performance")}))},allowsFunctionalCookies:function(){return h(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("personalisation")}))},getCookieValue:function(t){return h(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(r){return r.get(t)}))}};return f},BBCUserError:p}},7633:function(t,r,e){e(9170),e(6992),e(1539),e(8674),e(7922),e(4668),e(7727),e(8783);var n=e(857);t.exports=n.Promise},1111:function(t,r,e){e(1539),e(4916),e(4953),e(8992),e(9841),e(4506),e(7852),e(2023),e(4723),e(6373),e(6528),e(3112),e(2481),e(5306),e(8757),e(4765),e(3123),e(3157),e(3650),e(3210),e(5674),e(8702),e(8783),e(5218),e(4475),e(7929),e(915),e(9253),e(2125),e(8830),e(8734),e(9254),e(7268),e(7397),e(86),e(623);var n=e(857);t.exports=n.String},9662:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614),o=e(6330);t.exports=function(t){if(n(t))return t;throw TypeError(o(t)+" is not a function")}},9483:function(t,r,e){var n=e(4411),o=e(6330);t.exports=function(t){if(n(t))return t;throw TypeError(o(t)+" is not a constructor")}},6077:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614);t.exports=function(t){if("object"==typeof t||n(t))return t;throw TypeError("Can't set "+String(t)+" as a prototype")}},1223:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5112),o=e(30),i=e(3070),c=n("unscopables"),a=Array.prototype;null==a[c]&&i.f(a,c,{configurable:!0,value:o(null)}),t.exports=function(t){a[c][t]=!0}},1530:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(8710).charAt;t.exports=function(t,r,e){return r+(e?n(t,r).length:1)}},5787:function(t){t.exports=function(t,r,e){if(t instanceof r)return t;throw TypeError("Incorrect "+(e?e+" ":"")+"invocation")}},9670:function(t,r,e){var n=e(111);t.exports=function(t){if(n(t))return t;throw TypeError(String(t)+" is not an object")}},1318:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5656),o=e(7466),i=e(1400),c=function(t){return function(r,e,c){var a,u=n(r),s=o(u.length),f=i(c,s);if(t&&e!=e){for(;s>f;)if((a=u[f++])!=a)return!0}else for(;s>f;f++)if((t||f in u)&&u[f]===e)return t||f||0;return!t&&-1}};t.exports={includes:c(!0),indexOf:c(!1)}},7072:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5112)("iterator"),o=!1;try{var i=0,c={next:function(){return{done:!!i++}},return:function(){o=!0}};c[n]=function(){return this},Array.from(c,(function(){throw 2}))}catch(t){}t.exports=function(t,r){if(!r&&!o)return!1;var e=!1;try{var i={};i[n]=function(){return{next:function(){return{done:e=!0}}}},t(i)}catch(t){}return e}},4326:function(t){var r={}.toString;t.exports=function(t){return r.call(t).slice(8,-1)}},648:function(t,r,e){var n=e(1694),o=e(614),i=e(4326),c=e(5112)("toStringTag"),a="Arguments"==i(function(){return arguments}());t.exports=n?i:function(t){var r,e,n;return void 0===t?"Undefined":null===t?"Null":"string"==typeof(e=function(t,r){try{return t[r]}catch(t){}}(r=Object(t),c))?e:a?i(r):"Object"==(n=i(r))&&o(r.callee)?"Arguments":n}},9920:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6656),o=e(3887),i=e(1236),c=e(3070);t.exports=function(t,r){for(var e=o(r),a=c.f,u=i.f,s=0;s<e.length;s++){var f=e[s];n(t,f)||a(t,f,u(r,f))}}},4964:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5112)("match");t.exports=function(t){var r=/./;try{"/./"[t](r)}catch(e){try{return r[n]=!1,"/./"[t](r)}catch(t){}}return!1}},8544:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293);t.exports=!n((function(){function t(){}return t.prototype.constructor=null,Object.getPrototypeOf(new t)!==t.prototype}))},4230:function(t,r,e){var n=e(4488),o=e(1340),i=/"/g;t.exports=function(t,r,e,c){var a=o(n(t)),u="<"+r;return""!==e&&(u+=" "+e+'="'+o(c).replace(i,""")+'"'),u+">"+a+"</"+r+">"}},4994:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(3383).IteratorPrototype,o=e(30),i=e(9114),c=e(8003),a=e(7497),u=function(){return this};t.exports=function(t,r,e){var s=r+" Iterator";return t.prototype=o(n,{next:i(1,e)}),c(t,s,!1,!0),a[s]=u,t}},8880:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(3070),i=e(9114);t.exports=n?function(t,r,e){return o.f(t,r,i(1,e))}:function(t,r,e){return t[r]=e,t}},9114:function(t){t.exports=function(t,r){return{enumerable:!(1&t),configurable:!(2&t),writable:!(4&t),value:r}}},654:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(1913),i=e(6530),c=e(614),a=e(4994),u=e(9518),s=e(7674),f=e(8003),l=e(8880),p=e(1320),h=e(5112),d=e(7497),v=e(3383),y=i.PROPER,g=i.CONFIGURABLE,b=v.IteratorPrototype,m=v.BUGGY_SAFARI_ITERATORS,x=h("iterator"),w="keys",O="values",E="entries",S=function(){return this};t.exports=function(t,r,e,i,h,v,j){a(e,r,i);var P,T,A,_=function(t){if(t===h&&C)return C;if(!m&&t in L)return L[t];switch(t){case w:case O:case E:return function(){return new e(this,t)}}return function(){return new e(this)}},I=r+" Iterator",R=!1,L=t.prototype,k=L[x]||L["@@iterator"]||h&&L[h],C=!m&&k||_(h),B="Array"==r&&L.entries||k;if(B&&(P=u(B.call(new t)))!==Object.prototype&&P.next&&(o||u(P)===b||(s?s(P,b):c(P[x])||p(P,x,S)),f(P,I,!0,!0),o&&(d[I]=S)),y&&h==O&&k&&k.name!==O&&(!o&&g?l(L,"name",O):(R=!0,C=function(){return k.call(this)})),h)if(T={values:_(O),keys:v?C:_(w),entries:_(E)},j)for(A in T)(m||R||!(A in L))&&p(L,A,T[A]);else n({target:r,proto:!0,forced:m||R},T);return o&&!j||L[x]===C||p(L,x,C,{name:h}),d[r]=C,T}},9781:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293);t.exports=!n((function(){return 7!=Object.defineProperty({},1,{get:function(){return 7}})[1]}))},317:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(111),i=n.document,c=o(i)&&o(i.createElement);t.exports=function(t){return c?i.createElement(t):{}}},8324:function(t){t.exports={CSSRuleList:0,CSSStyleDeclaration:0,CSSValueList:0,ClientRectList:0,DOMRectList:0,DOMStringList:0,DOMTokenList:1,DataTransferItemList:0,FileList:0,HTMLAllCollection:0,HTMLCollection:0,HTMLFormElement:0,HTMLSelectElement:0,MediaList:0,MimeTypeArray:0,NamedNodeMap:0,NodeList:1,PaintRequestList:0,Plugin:0,PluginArray:0,SVGLengthList:0,SVGNumberList:0,SVGPathSegList:0,SVGPointList:0,SVGStringList:0,SVGTransformList:0,SourceBufferList:0,StyleSheetList:0,TextTrackCueList:0,TextTrackList:0,TouchList:0}},8509:function(t,r,e){var n=e(317)("span").classList,o=n&&n.constructor&&n.constructor.prototype;t.exports=o===Object.prototype?void 0:o},7871:function(t){t.exports="object"==typeof window},1528:function(t,r,e){var n=e(8113),o=e(7854);t.exports=/ipad|iphone|ipod/i.test(n)&&void 0!==o.Pebble},6833:function(t,r,e){var n=e(8113);t.exports=/(?:ipad|iphone|ipod).*applewebkit/i.test(n)},5268:function(t,r,e){var n=e(4326),o=e(7854);t.exports="process"==n(o.process)},1036:function(t,r,e){var n=e(8113);t.exports=/web0s(?!.*chrome)/i.test(n)},8113:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5005);t.exports=n("navigator","userAgent")||""},7392:function(t,r,e){var n,o,i=e(7854),c=e(8113),a=i.process,u=i.Deno,s=a&&a.versions||u&&u.version,f=s&&s.v8;f?o=(n=f.split("."))[0]<4?1:n[0]+n[1]:c&&(!(n=c.match(/Edge\/(\d+)/))||n[1]>=74)&&(n=c.match(/Chrome\/(\d+)/))&&(o=n[1]),t.exports=o&&+o},748:function(t){t.exports=["constructor","hasOwnProperty","isPrototypeOf","propertyIsEnumerable","toLocaleString","toString","valueOf"]},2109:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(1236).f,i=e(8880),c=e(1320),a=e(3505),u=e(9920),s=e(4705);t.exports=function(t,r){var e,f,l,p,h,d=t.target,v=t.global,y=t.stat;if(e=v?n:y?n[d]||a(d,{}):(n[d]||{}).prototype)for(f in r){if(p=r[f],l=t.noTargetGet?(h=o(e,f))&&h.value:e[f],!s(v?f:d+(y?".":"#")+f,t.forced)&&void 0!==l){if(typeof p==typeof l)continue;u(p,l)}(t.sham||l&&l.sham)&&i(p,"sham",!0),c(e,f,p,t)}}},7293:function(t){t.exports=function(t){try{return!!t()}catch(t){return!0}}},7007:function(t,r,e){"use strict";e(4916);var n=e(1320),o=e(2261),i=e(7293),c=e(5112),a=e(8880),u=c("species"),s=RegExp.prototype;t.exports=function(t,r,e,f){var l=c(t),p=!i((function(){var r={};return r[l]=function(){return 7},7!=""[t](r)})),h=p&&!i((function(){var r=!1,e=/a/;return"split"===t&&((e={}).constructor={},e.constructor[u]=function(){return e},e.flags="",e[l]=/./[l]),e.exec=function(){return r=!0,null},e[l](""),!r}));if(!p||!h||e){var d=/./[l],v=r(l,""[t],(function(t,r,e,n,i){var c=r.exec;return c===o||c===s.exec?p&&!i?{done:!0,value:d.call(r,e,n)}:{done:!0,value:t.call(e,r,n)}:{done:!1}}));n(String.prototype,t,v[0]),n(s,l,v[1])}f&&a(s[l],"sham",!0)}},9974:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9662);t.exports=function(t,r,e){if(n(t),void 0===r)return t;switch(e){case 0:return function(){return t.call(r)};case 1:return function(e){return t.call(r,e)};case 2:return function(e,n){return t.call(r,e,n)};case 3:return function(e,n,o){return t.call(r,e,n,o)}}return function(){return t.apply(r,arguments)}}},6530:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(6656),i=Function.prototype,c=n&&Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor,a=o(i,"name"),u=a&&"something"===function(){}.name,s=a&&(!n||n&&c(i,"name").configurable);t.exports={EXISTS:a,PROPER:u,CONFIGURABLE:s}},5005:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(614),i=function(t){return o(t)?t:void 0};t.exports=function(t,r){return arguments.length<2?i(n[t]):n[t]&&n[t][r]}},1246:function(t,r,e){var n=e(648),o=e(8173),i=e(7497),c=e(5112)("iterator");t.exports=function(t){if(null!=t)return o(t,c)||o(t,"@@iterator")||i[n(t)]}},8554:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9662),o=e(9670),i=e(1246);t.exports=function(t,r){var e=arguments.length<2?i(t):r;if(n(e))return o(e.call(t));throw TypeError(String(t)+" is not iterable")}},8173:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9662);t.exports=function(t,r){var e=t[r];return null==e?void 0:n(e)}},647:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7908),o=Math.floor,i="".replace,c=/\$([$&'`]|\d{1,2}|<[^>]*>)/g,a=/\$([$&'`]|\d{1,2})/g;t.exports=function(t,r,e,u,s,f){var l=e+t.length,p=u.length,h=a;return void 0!==s&&(s=n(s),h=c),i.call(f,h,(function(n,i){var c;switch(i.charAt(0)){case"$":return"$";case"&":return t;case"`":return r.slice(0,e);case"'":return r.slice(l);case"<":c=s[i.slice(1,-1)];break;default:var a=+i;if(0===a)return n;if(a>p){var f=o(a/10);return 0===f?n:f<=p?void 0===u[f-1]?i.charAt(1):u[f-1]+i.charAt(1):n}c=u[a-1]}return void 0===c?"":c}))}},7854:function(t,r,e){var n=function(t){return t&&t.Math==Math&&t};t.exports=n("object"==typeof globalThis&&globalThis)||n("object"==typeof window&&window)||n("object"==typeof self&&self)||n("object"==typeof e.g&&e.g)||function(){return this}()||Function("return this")()},6656:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7908),o={}.hasOwnProperty;t.exports=Object.hasOwn||function(t,r){return o.call(n(t),r)}},3501:function(t){t.exports={}},842:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854);t.exports=function(t,r){var e=n.console;e&&e.error&&(1===arguments.length?e.error(t):e.error(t,r))}},490:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5005);t.exports=n("document","documentElement")},4664:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(7293),i=e(317);t.exports=!n&&!o((function(){return 7!=Object.defineProperty(i("div"),"a",{get:function(){return 7}}).a}))},8361:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(4326),i="".split;t.exports=n((function(){return!Object("z").propertyIsEnumerable(0)}))?function(t){return"String"==o(t)?i.call(t,""):Object(t)}:Object},2788:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614),o=e(5465),i=Function.toString;n(o.inspectSource)||(o.inspectSource=function(t){return i.call(t)}),t.exports=o.inspectSource},9909:function(t,r,e){var n,o,i,c=e(8536),a=e(7854),u=e(111),s=e(8880),f=e(6656),l=e(5465),p=e(6200),h=e(3501),d="Object already initialized",v=a.WeakMap;if(c||l.state){var y=l.state||(l.state=new v),g=y.get,b=y.has,m=y.set;n=function(t,r){if(b.call(y,t))throw new TypeError(d);return r.facade=t,m.call(y,t,r),r},o=function(t){return g.call(y,t)||{}},i=function(t){return b.call(y,t)}}else{var x=p("state");h[x]=!0,n=function(t,r){if(f(t,x))throw new TypeError(d);return r.facade=t,s(t,x,r),r},o=function(t){return f(t,x)?t[x]:{}},i=function(t){return f(t,x)}}t.exports={set:n,get:o,has:i,enforce:function(t){return i(t)?o(t):n(t,{})},getterFor:function(t){return function(r){var e;if(!u(r)||(e=o(r)).type!==t)throw TypeError("Incompatible receiver, "+t+" required");return e}}}},7659:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5112),o=e(7497),i=n("iterator"),c=Array.prototype;t.exports=function(t){return void 0!==t&&(o.Array===t||c[i]===t)}},614:function(t){t.exports=function(t){return"function"==typeof t}},4411:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(614),i=e(648),c=e(5005),a=e(2788),u=[],s=c("Reflect","construct"),f=/^\s*(?:class|function)\b/,l=f.exec,p=!f.exec((function(){})),h=function(t){if(!o(t))return!1;try{return s(Object,u,t),!0}catch(t){return!1}};t.exports=!s||n((function(){var t;return h(h.call)||!h(Object)||!h((function(){t=!0}))||t}))?function(t){if(!o(t))return!1;switch(i(t)){case"AsyncFunction":case"GeneratorFunction":case"AsyncGeneratorFunction":return!1}return p||!!l.call(f,a(t))}:h},4705:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(614),i=/#|\.prototype\./,c=function(t,r){var e=u[a(t)];return e==f||e!=s&&(o(r)?n(r):!!r)},a=c.normalize=function(t){return String(t).replace(i,".").toLowerCase()},u=c.data={},s=c.NATIVE="N",f=c.POLYFILL="P";t.exports=c},111:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614);t.exports=function(t){return"object"==typeof t?null!==t:n(t)}},1913:function(t){t.exports=!1},7850:function(t,r,e){var n=e(111),o=e(4326),i=e(5112)("match");t.exports=function(t){var r;return n(t)&&(void 0!==(r=t[i])?!!r:"RegExp"==o(t))}},2190:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614),o=e(5005),i=e(3307);t.exports=i?function(t){return"symbol"==typeof t}:function(t){var r=o("Symbol");return n(r)&&Object(t)instanceof r}},408:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(7659),i=e(7466),c=e(9974),a=e(8554),u=e(1246),s=e(9212),f=function(t,r){this.stopped=t,this.result=r};t.exports=function(t,r,e){var l,p,h,d,v,y,g,b=e&&e.that,m=!(!e||!e.AS_ENTRIES),x=!(!e||!e.IS_ITERATOR),w=!(!e||!e.INTERRUPTED),O=c(r,b,1+m+w),E=function(t){return l&&s(l,"normal",t),new f(!0,t)},S=function(t){return m?(n(t),w?O(t[0],t[1],E):O(t[0],t[1])):w?O(t,E):O(t)};if(x)l=t;else{if(!(p=u(t)))throw TypeError(String(t)+" is not iterable");if(o(p)){for(h=0,d=i(t.length);d>h;h++)if((v=S(t[h]))&&v instanceof f)return v;return new f(!1)}l=a(t,p)}for(y=l.next;!(g=y.call(l)).done;){try{v=S(g.value)}catch(t){s(l,"throw",t)}if("object"==typeof v&&v&&v instanceof f)return v}return new f(!1)}},9212:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(8173);t.exports=function(t,r,e){var i,c;n(t);try{if(!(i=o(t,"return"))){if("throw"===r)throw e;return e}i=i.call(t)}catch(t){c=!0,i=t}if("throw"===r)throw e;if(c)throw i;return n(i),e}},3383:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n,o,i,c=e(7293),a=e(614),u=e(30),s=e(9518),f=e(1320),l=e(5112),p=e(1913),h=l("iterator"),d=!1;[].keys&&("next"in(i=[].keys())?(o=s(s(i)))!==Object.prototype&&(n=o):d=!0),null==n||c((function(){var t={};return n[h].call(t)!==t}))?n={}:p&&(n=u(n)),a(n[h])||f(n,h,(function(){return this})),t.exports={IteratorPrototype:n,BUGGY_SAFARI_ITERATORS:d}},7497:function(t){t.exports={}},5948:function(t,r,e){var n,o,i,c,a,u,s,f,l=e(7854),p=e(1236).f,h=e(261).set,d=e(6833),v=e(1528),y=e(1036),g=e(5268),b=l.MutationObserver||l.WebKitMutationObserver,m=l.document,x=l.process,w=l.Promise,O=p(l,"queueMicrotask"),E=O&&O.value;E||(n=function(){var t,r;for(g&&(t=x.domain)&&t.exit();o;){r=o.fn,o=o.next;try{r()}catch(t){throw o?c():i=void 0,t}}i=void 0,t&&t.enter()},d||g||y||!b||!m?!v&&w&&w.resolve?((s=w.resolve(void 0)).constructor=w,f=s.then,c=function(){f.call(s,n)}):c=g?function(){x.nextTick(n)}:function(){h.call(l,n)}:(a=!0,u=m.createTextNode(""),new b(n).observe(u,{characterData:!0}),c=function(){u.data=a=!a})),t.exports=E||function(t){var r={fn:t,next:void 0};i&&(i.next=r),o||(o=r,c()),i=r}},3366:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854);t.exports=n.Promise},133:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7392),o=e(7293);t.exports=!!Object.getOwnPropertySymbols&&!o((function(){var t=Symbol();return!String(t)||!(Object(t)instanceof Symbol)||!Symbol.sham&&n&&n<41}))},8536:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(614),i=e(2788),c=n.WeakMap;t.exports=o(c)&&/native code/.test(i(c))},8523:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(9662),o=function(t){var r,e;this.promise=new t((function(t,n){if(void 0!==r||void 0!==e)throw TypeError("Bad Promise constructor");r=t,e=n})),this.resolve=n(r),this.reject=n(e)};t.exports.f=function(t){return new o(t)}},3929:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7850);t.exports=function(t){if(n(t))throw TypeError("The method doesn't accept regular expressions");return t}},30:function(t,r,e){var n,o=e(9670),i=e(6048),c=e(748),a=e(3501),u=e(490),s=e(317),f=e(6200),l=f("IE_PROTO"),p=function(){},h=function(t){return"<script>"+t+"</"+"script>"},d=function(t){t.write(h("")),t.close();var r=t.parentWindow.Object;return t=null,r},v=function(){try{n=new ActiveXObject("htmlfile")}catch(t){}var t,r;v="undefined"!=typeof document?document.domain&&n?d(n):((r=s("iframe")).style.display="none",u.appendChild(r),r.src=String("javascript:"),(t=r.contentWindow.document).open(),t.write(h("document.F=Object")),t.close(),t.F):d(n);for(var e=c.length;e--;)delete v.prototype[c[e]];return v()};a[l]=!0,t.exports=Object.create||function(t,r){var e;return null!==t?(p.prototype=o(t),e=new p,p.prototype=null,e[l]=t):e=v(),void 0===r?e:i(e,r)}},6048:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(3070),i=e(9670),c=e(1956);t.exports=n?Object.defineProperties:function(t,r){i(t);for(var e,n=c(r),a=n.length,u=0;a>u;)o.f(t,e=n[u++],r[e]);return t}},3070:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(4664),i=e(9670),c=e(4948),a=Object.defineProperty;r.f=n?a:function(t,r,e){if(i(t),r=c(r),i(e),o)try{return a(t,r,e)}catch(t){}if("get"in e||"set"in e)throw TypeError("Accessors not supported");return"value"in e&&(t[r]=e.value),t}},1236:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9781),o=e(5296),i=e(9114),c=e(5656),a=e(4948),u=e(6656),s=e(4664),f=Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor;r.f=n?f:function(t,r){if(t=c(t),r=a(r),s)try{return f(t,r)}catch(t){}if(u(t,r))return i(!o.f.call(t,r),t[r])}},8006:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6324),o=e(748).concat("length","prototype");r.f=Object.getOwnPropertyNames||function(t){return n(t,o)}},5181:function(t,r){r.f=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols},9518:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6656),o=e(614),i=e(7908),c=e(6200),a=e(8544),u=c("IE_PROTO"),s=Object.prototype;t.exports=a?Object.getPrototypeOf:function(t){var r=i(t);if(n(r,u))return r[u];var e=r.constructor;return o(e)&&r instanceof e?e.prototype:r instanceof Object?s:null}},6324:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6656),o=e(5656),i=e(1318).indexOf,c=e(3501);t.exports=function(t,r){var e,a=o(t),u=0,s=[];for(e in a)!n(c,e)&&n(a,e)&&s.push(e);for(;r.length>u;)n(a,e=r[u++])&&(~i(s,e)||s.push(e));return s}},1956:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6324),o=e(748);t.exports=Object.keys||function(t){return n(t,o)}},5296:function(t,r){"use strict";var e={}.propertyIsEnumerable,n=Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor,o=n&&!e.call({1:2},1);r.f=o?function(t){var r=n(this,t);return!!r&&r.enumerable}:e},7674:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(6077);t.exports=Object.setPrototypeOf||("__proto__"in{}?function(){var t,r=!1,e={};try{(t=Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(Object.prototype,"__proto__").set).call(e,[]),r=e instanceof Array}catch(t){}return function(e,i){return n(e),o(i),r?t.call(e,i):e.__proto__=i,e}}():void 0)},288:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(1694),o=e(648);t.exports=n?{}.toString:function(){return"[object "+o(this)+"]"}},2140:function(t,r,e){var n=e(614),o=e(111);t.exports=function(t,r){var e,i;if("string"===r&&n(e=t.toString)&&!o(i=e.call(t)))return i;if(n(e=t.valueOf)&&!o(i=e.call(t)))return i;if("string"!==r&&n(e=t.toString)&&!o(i=e.call(t)))return i;throw TypeError("Can't convert object to primitive value")}},3887:function(t,r,e){var n=e(5005),o=e(8006),i=e(5181),c=e(9670);t.exports=n("Reflect","ownKeys")||function(t){var r=o.f(c(t)),e=i.f;return e?r.concat(e(t)):r}},857:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854);t.exports=n},2534:function(t){t.exports=function(t){try{return{error:!1,value:t()}}catch(t){return{error:!0,value:t}}}},9478:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(111),i=e(8523);t.exports=function(t,r){if(n(t),o(r)&&r.constructor===t)return r;var e=i.f(t);return(0,e.resolve)(r),e.promise}},2248:function(t,r,e){var n=e(1320);t.exports=function(t,r,e){for(var o in r)n(t,o,r[o],e);return t}},1320:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(614),i=e(6656),c=e(8880),a=e(3505),u=e(2788),s=e(9909),f=e(6530).CONFIGURABLE,l=s.get,p=s.enforce,h=String(String).split("String");(t.exports=function(t,r,e,u){var s,l=!!u&&!!u.unsafe,d=!!u&&!!u.enumerable,v=!!u&&!!u.noTargetGet,y=u&&void 0!==u.name?u.name:r;o(e)&&("Symbol("===String(y).slice(0,7)&&(y="["+String(y).replace(/^Symbol$([^)]*)$/,"$1")+"]"),(!i(e,"name")||f&&e.name!==y)&&c(e,"name",y),(s=p(e)).source||(s.source=h.join("string"==typeof y?y:""))),t!==n?(l?!v&&t[r]&&(d=!0):delete t[r],d?t[r]=e:c(t,r,e)):d?t[r]=e:a(r,e)})(Function.prototype,"toString",(function(){return o(this)&&l(this).source||u(this)}))},7651:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(614),i=e(4326),c=e(2261);t.exports=function(t,r){var e=t.exec;if(o(e)){var a=e.call(t,r);return null!==a&&n(a),a}if("RegExp"===i(t))return c.call(t,r);throw TypeError("RegExp#exec called on incompatible receiver")}},2261:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n,o,i=e(1340),c=e(7066),a=e(2999),u=e(2309),s=e(30),f=e(9909).get,l=e(9441),p=e(7168),h=RegExp.prototype.exec,d=u("native-string-replace",String.prototype.replace),v=h,y=(n=/a/,o=/b*/g,h.call(n,"a"),h.call(o,"a"),0!==n.lastIndex||0!==o.lastIndex),g=a.UNSUPPORTED_Y||a.BROKEN_CARET,b=void 0!==/()??/.exec("")[1];(y||b||g||l||p)&&(v=function(t){var r,e,n,o,a,u,l,p=this,m=f(p),x=i(t),w=m.raw;if(w)return w.lastIndex=p.lastIndex,r=v.call(w,x),p.lastIndex=w.lastIndex,r;var O=m.groups,E=g&&p.sticky,S=c.call(p),j=p.source,P=0,T=x;if(E&&(-1===(S=S.replace("y","")).indexOf("g")&&(S+="g"),T=x.slice(p.lastIndex),p.lastIndex>0&&(!p.multiline||p.multiline&&"\n"!==x.charAt(p.lastIndex-1))&&(j="(?: "+j+")",T=" "+T,P++),e=new RegExp("^(?:"+j+")",S)),b&&(e=new RegExp("^"+j+"$(?!\\s)",S)),y&&(n=p.lastIndex),o=h.call(E?e:p,T),E?o?(o.input=o.input.slice(P),o[0]=o[0].slice(P),o.index=p.lastIndex,p.lastIndex+=o[0].length):p.lastIndex=0:y&&o&&(p.lastIndex=p.global?o.index+o[0].length:n),b&&o&&o.length>1&&d.call(o[0],e,(function(){for(a=1;a<arguments.length-2;a++)void 0===arguments[a]&&(o[a]=void 0)})),o&&O)for(o.groups=u=s(null),a=0;a<O.length;a++)u[(l=O[a])[0]]=o[l[1]];return o}),t.exports=v},7066:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(9670);t.exports=function(){var t=n(this),r="";return t.global&&(r+="g"),t.ignoreCase&&(r+="i"),t.multiline&&(r+="m"),t.dotAll&&(r+="s"),t.unicode&&(r+="u"),t.sticky&&(r+="y"),r}},2999:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(7854).RegExp;r.UNSUPPORTED_Y=n((function(){var t=o("a","y");return t.lastIndex=2,null!=t.exec("abcd")})),r.BROKEN_CARET=n((function(){var t=o("^r","gy");return t.lastIndex=2,null!=t.exec("str")}))},9441:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(7854).RegExp;t.exports=n((function(){var t=o(".","s");return!(t.dotAll&&t.exec("\n")&&"s"===t.flags)}))},7168:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293),o=e(7854).RegExp;t.exports=n((function(){var t=o("(?<a>b)","g");return"b"!==t.exec("b").groups.a||"bc"!=="b".replace(t,"$<a>c")}))},4488:function(t){t.exports=function(t){if(null==t)throw TypeError("Can't call method on "+t);return t}},6029:function(t){t.exports=Object.is||function(t,r){return t===r?0!==t||1/t==1/r:t!=t&&r!=r}},3505:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854);t.exports=function(t,r){try{Object.defineProperty(n,t,{value:r,configurable:!0,writable:!0})}catch(e){n[t]=r}return r}},6340:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(5005),o=e(3070),i=e(5112),c=e(9781),a=i("species");t.exports=function(t){var r=n(t),e=o.f;c&&r&&!r[a]&&e(r,a,{configurable:!0,get:function(){return this}})}},8003:function(t,r,e){var n=e(3070).f,o=e(6656),i=e(5112)("toStringTag");t.exports=function(t,r,e){t&&!o(t=e?t:t.prototype,i)&&n(t,i,{configurable:!0,value:r})}},6200:function(t,r,e){var n=e(2309),o=e(9711),i=n("keys");t.exports=function(t){return i[t]||(i[t]=o(t))}},5465:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(3505),i="__core-js_shared__",c=n[i]||o(i,{});t.exports=c},2309:function(t,r,e){var n=e(1913),o=e(5465);(t.exports=function(t,r){return o[t]||(o[t]=void 0!==r?r:{})})("versions",[]).push({version:"3.18.0",mode:n?"pure":"global",copyright:"© 2021 Denis Pushkarev (zloirock.ru)"})},6707:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9670),o=e(9483),i=e(5112)("species");t.exports=function(t,r){var e,c=n(t).constructor;return void 0===c||null==(e=n(c)[i])?r:o(e)}},3429:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7293);t.exports=function(t){return n((function(){var r=""[t]('"');return r!==r.toLowerCase()||r.split('"').length>3}))}},8710:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9958),o=e(1340),i=e(4488),c=function(t){return function(r,e){var c,a,u=o(i(r)),s=n(e),f=u.length;return s<0||s>=f?t?"":void 0:(c=u.charCodeAt(s))<55296||c>56319||s+1===f||(a=u.charCodeAt(s+1))<56320||a>57343?t?u.charAt(s):c:t?u.slice(s,s+2):a-56320+(c-55296<<10)+65536}};t.exports={codeAt:c(!1),charAt:c(!0)}},4986:function(t,r,e){var n=e(8113);t.exports=/Version\/10(?:\.\d+){1,2}(?: [\w./]+)?(?: Mobile\/\w+)? Safari\//.test(n)},6650:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7466),o=e(1340),i=e(8415),c=e(4488),a=Math.ceil,u=function(t){return function(r,e,u){var s,f,l=o(c(r)),p=l.length,h=void 0===u?" ":o(u),d=n(e);return d<=p||""==h?l:(s=d-p,(f=i.call(h,a(s/h.length))).length>s&&(f=f.slice(0,s)),t?l+f:f+l)}};t.exports={start:u(!1),end:u(!0)}},8415:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(9958),o=e(1340),i=e(4488);t.exports=function(t){var r=o(i(this)),e="",c=n(t);if(c<0||c==1/0)throw RangeError("Wrong number of repetitions");for(;c>0;(c>>>=1)&&(r+=r))1&c&&(e+=r);return e}},6091:function(t,r,e){var n=e(6530).PROPER,o=e(7293),i=e(1361);t.exports=function(t){return o((function(){return!!i[t]()||"᠎"!=="᠎"[t]()||n&&i[t].name!==t}))}},3111:function(t,r,e){var n=e(4488),o=e(1340),i="["+e(1361)+"]",c=RegExp("^"+i+i+"*"),a=RegExp(i+i+"*$"),u=function(t){return function(r){var e=o(n(r));return 1&t&&(e=e.replace(c,"")),2&t&&(e=e.replace(a,"")),e}};t.exports={start:u(1),end:u(2),trim:u(3)}},261:function(t,r,e){var n,o,i,c,a=e(7854),u=e(614),s=e(7293),f=e(9974),l=e(490),p=e(317),h=e(6833),d=e(5268),v=a.setImmediate,y=a.clearImmediate,g=a.process,b=a.MessageChannel,m=a.Dispatch,x=0,w={},O="onreadystatechange";try{n=a.location}catch(t){}var E=function(t){if(w.hasOwnProperty(t)){var r=w[t];delete w[t],r()}},S=function(t){return function(){E(t)}},j=function(t){E(t.data)},P=function(t){a.postMessage(String(t),n.protocol+"//"+n.host)};v&&y||(v=function(t){for(var r=[],e=arguments.length,n=1;e>n;)r.push(arguments[n++]);return w[++x]=function(){(u(t)?t:Function(t)).apply(void 0,r)},o(x),x},y=function(t){delete w[t]},d?o=function(t){g.nextTick(S(t))}:m&&m.now?o=function(t){m.now(S(t))}:b&&!h?(c=(i=new b).port2,i.port1.onmessage=j,o=f(c.postMessage,c,1)):a.addEventListener&&u(a.postMessage)&&!a.importScripts&&n&&"file:"!==n.protocol&&!s(P)?(o=P,a.addEventListener("message",j,!1)):o=O in p("script")?function(t){l.appendChild(p("script")).onreadystatechange=function(){l.removeChild(this),E(t)}}:function(t){setTimeout(S(t),0)}),t.exports={set:v,clear:y}},1400:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9958),o=Math.max,i=Math.min;t.exports=function(t,r){var e=n(t);return e<0?o(e+r,0):i(e,r)}},5656:function(t,r,e){var n=e(8361),o=e(4488);t.exports=function(t){return n(o(t))}},9958:function(t){var r=Math.ceil,e=Math.floor;t.exports=function(t){return isNaN(t=+t)?0:(t>0?e:r)(t)}},7466:function(t,r,e){var n=e(9958),o=Math.min;t.exports=function(t){return t>0?o(n(t),9007199254740991):0}},7908:function(t,r,e){var n=e(4488);t.exports=function(t){return Object(n(t))}},7593:function(t,r,e){var n=e(111),o=e(2190),i=e(8173),c=e(2140),a=e(5112)("toPrimitive");t.exports=function(t,r){if(!n(t)||o(t))return t;var e,u=i(t,a);if(u){if(void 0===r&&(r="default"),e=u.call(t,r),!n(e)||o(e))return e;throw TypeError("Can't convert object to primitive value")}return void 0===r&&(r="number"),c(t,r)}},4948:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7593),o=e(2190);t.exports=function(t){var r=n(t,"string");return o(r)?r:String(r)}},1694:function(t,r,e){var n={};n[e(5112)("toStringTag")]="z",t.exports="[object z]"===String(n)},1340:function(t,r,e){var n=e(648);t.exports=function(t){if("Symbol"===n(t))throw TypeError("Cannot convert a Symbol value to a string");return String(t)}},6330:function(t){t.exports=function(t){try{return String(t)}catch(t){return"Object"}}},9711:function(t){var r=0,e=Math.random();t.exports=function(t){return"Symbol("+String(void 0===t?"":t)+")_"+(++r+e).toString(36)}},3307:function(t,r,e){var n=e(133);t.exports=n&&!Symbol.sham&&"symbol"==typeof Symbol.iterator},5112:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(2309),i=e(6656),c=e(9711),a=e(133),u=e(3307),s=o("wks"),f=n.Symbol,l=u?f:f&&f.withoutSetter||c;t.exports=function(t){return i(s,t)&&(a||"string"==typeof s[t])||(a&&i(f,t)?s[t]=f[t]:s[t]=l("Symbol."+t)),s[t]}},1361:function(t){t.exports="\t\n\v\f\r     　\u2028\u2029\ufeff"},9170:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(9518),i=e(7674),c=e(30),a=e(8880),u=e(9114),s=e(408),f=e(1340),l=function(t,r){var e=this;if(!(e instanceof l))return new l(t,r);i&&(e=i(new Error(void 0),o(e))),void 0!==r&&a(e,"message",f(r));var n=[];return s(t,n.push,{that:n}),a(e,"errors",n),e};l.prototype=c(Error.prototype,{constructor:u(5,l),message:u(5,""),name:u(5,"AggregateError")}),n({global:!0},{AggregateError:l})},6992:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(5656),o=e(1223),i=e(7497),c=e(9909),a=e(654),u="Array Iterator",s=c.set,f=c.getterFor(u);t.exports=a(Array,"Array",(function(t,r){s(this,{type:u,target:n(t),index:0,kind:r})}),(function(){var t=f(this),r=t.target,e=t.kind,n=t.index++;return!r||n>=r.length?(t.target=void 0,{value:void 0,done:!0}):"keys"==e?{value:n,done:!1}:"values"==e?{value:r[n],done:!1}:{value:[n,r[n]],done:!1}}),"values"),i.Arguments=i.Array,o("keys"),o("values"),o("entries")},1539:function(t,r,e){var n=e(1694),o=e(1320),i=e(288);n||o(Object.prototype,"toString",i,{unsafe:!0})},7922:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(9662),i=e(8523),c=e(2534),a=e(408);n({target:"Promise",stat:!0},{allSettled:function(t){var r=this,e=i.f(r),n=e.resolve,u=e.reject,s=c((function(){var e=o(r.resolve),i=[],c=0,u=1;a(t,(function(t){var o=c++,a=!1;i.push(void 0),u++,e.call(r,t).then((function(t){a||(a=!0,i[o]={status:"fulfilled",value:t},--u||n(i))}),(function(t){a||(a=!0,i[o]={status:"rejected",reason:t},--u||n(i))}))})),--u||n(i)}));return s.error&&u(s.value),e.promise}})},4668:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(9662),i=e(5005),c=e(8523),a=e(2534),u=e(408),s="No one promise resolved";n({target:"Promise",stat:!0},{any:function(t){var r=this,e=c.f(r),n=e.resolve,f=e.reject,l=a((function(){var e=o(r.resolve),c=[],a=0,l=1,p=!1;u(t,(function(t){var o=a++,u=!1;c.push(void 0),l++,e.call(r,t).then((function(t){u||p||(p=!0,n(t))}),(function(t){u||p||(u=!0,c[o]=t,--l||f(new(i("AggregateError"))(c,s)))}))})),--l||f(new(i("AggregateError"))(c,s))}));return l.error&&f(l.value),e.promise}})},7727:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(1913),i=e(3366),c=e(7293),a=e(5005),u=e(614),s=e(6707),f=e(9478),l=e(1320);if(n({target:"Promise",proto:!0,real:!0,forced:!!i&&c((function(){i.prototype.finally.call({then:function(){}},(function(){}))}))},{finally:function(t){var r=s(this,a("Promise")),e=u(t);return this.then(e?function(e){return f(r,t()).then((function(){return e}))}:t,e?function(e){return f(r,t()).then((function(){throw e}))}:t)}}),!o&&u(i)){var p=a("Promise").prototype.finally;i.prototype.finally!==p&&l(i.prototype,"finally",p,{unsafe:!0})}},8674:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n,o,i,c,a=e(2109),u=e(1913),s=e(7854),f=e(5005),l=e(3366),p=e(1320),h=e(2248),d=e(7674),v=e(8003),y=e(6340),g=e(9662),b=e(614),m=e(111),x=e(5787),w=e(2788),O=e(408),E=e(7072),S=e(6707),j=e(261).set,P=e(5948),T=e(9478),A=e(842),_=e(8523),I=e(2534),R=e(9909),L=e(4705),k=e(5112),C=e(7871),B=e(5268),D=e(7392),F=k("species"),M="Promise",U=R.get,N=R.set,G=R.getterFor(M),X=l&&l.prototype,$=l,H=X,q=s.TypeError,W=s.document,V=s.process,z=_.f,Y=z,K=!!(W&&W.createEvent&&s.dispatchEvent),J=b(s.PromiseRejectionEvent),Q="unhandledrejection",Z=!1,tt=L(M,(function(){var t=w($),r=t!==String($);if(!r&&66===D)return!0;if(u&&!H.finally)return!0;if(D>=51&&/native code/.test(t))return!1;var e=new $((function(t){t(1)})),n=function(t){t((function(){}),(function(){}))};return(e.constructor={})[F]=n,!(Z=e.then((function(){}))instanceof n)||!r&&C&&!J})),rt=tt||!E((function(t){$.all(t).catch((function(){}))})),et=function(t){var r;return!(!m(t)||!b(r=t.then))&&r},nt=function(t,r){if(!t.notified){t.notified=!0;var e=t.reactions;P((function(){for(var n=t.value,o=1==t.state,i=0;e.length>i;){var c,a,u,s=e[i++],f=o?s.ok:s.fail,l=s.resolve,p=s.reject,h=s.domain;try{f?(o||(2===t.rejection&&at(t),t.rejection=1),!0===f?c=n:(h&&h.enter(),c=f(n),h&&(h.exit(),u=!0)),c===s.promise?p(q("Promise-chain cycle")):(a=et(c))?a.call(c,l,p):l(c)):p(n)}catch(t){h&&!u&&h.exit(),p(t)}}t.reactions=[],t.notified=!1,r&&!t.rejection&&it(t)}))}},ot=function(t,r,e){var n,o;K?((n=W.createEvent("Event")).promise=r,n.reason=e,n.initEvent(t,!1,!0),s.dispatchEvent(n)):n={promise:r,reason:e},!J&&(o=s["on"+t])?o(n):t===Q&&A("Unhandled promise rejection",e)},it=function(t){j.call(s,(function(){var r,e=t.facade,n=t.value;if(ct(t)&&(r=I((function(){B?V.emit("unhandledRejection",n,e):ot(Q,e,n)})),t.rejection=B||ct(t)?2:1,r.error))throw r.value}))},ct=function(t){return 1!==t.rejection&&!t.parent},at=function(t){j.call(s,(function(){var r=t.facade;B?V.emit("rejectionHandled",r):ot("rejectionhandled",r,t.value)}))},ut=function(t,r,e){return function(n){t(r,n,e)}},st=function(t,r,e){t.done||(t.done=!0,e&&(t=e),t.value=r,t.state=2,nt(t,!0))},ft=function(t,r,e){if(!t.done){t.done=!0,e&&(t=e);try{if(t.facade===r)throw q("Promise can't be resolved itself");var n=et(r);n?P((function(){var e={done:!1};try{n.call(r,ut(ft,e,t),ut(st,e,t))}catch(r){st(e,r,t)}})):(t.value=r,t.state=1,nt(t,!1))}catch(r){st({done:!1},r,t)}}};if(tt&&(H=($=function(t){x(this,$,M),g(t),n.call(this);var r=U(this);try{t(ut(ft,r),ut(st,r))}catch(t){st(r,t)}}).prototype,(n=function(t){N(this,{type:M,done:!1,notified:!1,parent:!1,reactions:[],rejection:!1,state:0,value:void 0})}).prototype=h(H,{then:function(t,r){var e=G(this),n=z(S(this,$));return n.ok=!b(t)||t,n.fail=b(r)&&r,n.domain=B?V.domain:void 0,e.parent=!0,e.reactions.push(n),0!=e.state&&nt(e,!1),n.promise},catch:function(t){return this.then(void 0,t)}}),o=function(){var t=new n,r=U(t);this.promise=t,this.resolve=ut(ft,r),this.reject=ut(st,r)},_.f=z=function(t){return t===$||t===i?new o(t):Y(t)},!u&&b(l)&&X!==Object.prototype)){c=X.then,Z||(p(X,"then",(function(t,r){var e=this;return new $((function(t,r){c.call(e,t,r)})).then(t,r)}),{unsafe:!0}),p(X,"catch",H.catch,{unsafe:!0}));try{delete X.constructor}catch(t){}d&&d(X,H)}a({global:!0,wrap:!0,forced:tt},{Promise:$}),v($,M,!1,!0),y(M),i=f(M),a({target:M,stat:!0,forced:tt},{reject:function(t){var r=z(this);return r.reject.call(void 0,t),r.promise}}),a({target:M,stat:!0,forced:u||tt},{resolve:function(t){return T(u&&this===i?$:this,t)}}),a({target:M,stat:!0,forced:rt},{all:function(t){var r=this,e=z(r),n=e.resolve,o=e.reject,i=I((function(){var e=g(r.resolve),i=[],c=0,a=1;O(t,(function(t){var u=c++,s=!1;i.push(void 0),a++,e.call(r,t).then((function(t){s||(s=!0,i[u]=t,--a||n(i))}),o)})),--a||n(i)}));return i.error&&o(i.value),e.promise},race:function(t){var r=this,e=z(r),n=e.reject,o=I((function(){var o=g(r.resolve);O(t,(function(t){o.call(r,t).then(e.resolve,n)}))}));return o.error&&n(o.value),e.promise}})},4916:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(2261);n({target:"RegExp",proto:!0,forced:/./.exec!==o},{exec:o})},5218:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("anchor")},{anchor:function(t){return o(this,"a","name",t)}})},4506:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4488),i=e(9958),c=e(7466),a=e(1340);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(7293)((function(){return"\ud842"!=="𠮷".at(0)}))},{at:function(t){var r=a(o(this)),e=c(r.length),n=i(t),u=n>=0?n:e+n;return u<0||u>=e?void 0:r.charAt(u)}})},4475:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("big")},{big:function(){return o(this,"big","","")}})},7929:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("blink")},{blink:function(){return o(this,"blink","","")}})},915:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("bold")},{bold:function(){return o(this,"b","","")}})},9841:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(8710).codeAt;n({target:"String",proto:!0},{codePointAt:function(t){return o(this,t)}})},7852:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n,o=e(2109),i=e(1236).f,c=e(7466),a=e(1340),u=e(3929),s=e(4488),f=e(4964),l=e(1913),p="".endsWith,h=Math.min,d=f("endsWith");o({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:!!(l||d||(n=i(String.prototype,"endsWith"),!n||n.writable))&&!d},{endsWith:function(t){var r=a(s(this));u(t);var e=arguments.length>1?arguments[1]:void 0,n=c(r.length),o=void 0===e?n:h(c(e),n),i=a(t);return p?p.call(r,i,o):r.slice(o-i.length,o)===i}})},9253:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("fixed")},{fixed:function(){return o(this,"tt","","")}})},2125:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("fontcolor")},{fontcolor:function(t){return o(this,"font","color",t)}})},8830:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("fontsize")},{fontsize:function(t){return o(this,"font","size",t)}})},4953:function(t,r,e){var n=e(2109),o=e(1400),i=String.fromCharCode,c=String.fromCodePoint;n({target:"String",stat:!0,forced:!!c&&1!=c.length},{fromCodePoint:function(t){for(var r,e=[],n=arguments.length,c=0;n>c;){if(r=+arguments[c++],o(r,1114111)!==r)throw RangeError(r+" is not a valid code point");e.push(r<65536?i(r):i(55296+((r-=65536)>>10),r%1024+56320))}return e.join("")}})},2023:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(3929),i=e(4488),c=e(1340);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:!e(4964)("includes")},{includes:function(t){return!!~c(i(this)).indexOf(c(o(t)),arguments.length>1?arguments[1]:void 0)}})},8734:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("italics")},{italics:function(){return o(this,"i","","")}})},8783:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(8710).charAt,o=e(1340),i=e(9909),c=e(654),a="String Iterator",u=i.set,s=i.getterFor(a);c(String,"String",(function(t){u(this,{type:a,string:o(t),index:0})}),(function(){var t,r=s(this),e=r.string,o=r.index;return o>=e.length?{value:void 0,done:!0}:(t=n(e,o),r.index+=t.length,{value:t,done:!1})}))},9254:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("link")},{link:function(t){return o(this,"a","href",t)}})},6373:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4994),i=e(4488),c=e(7466),a=e(1340),u=e(9670),s=e(4326),f=e(7850),l=e(7066),p=e(8173),h=e(1320),d=e(7293),v=e(5112),y=e(6707),g=e(1530),b=e(7651),m=e(9909),x=e(1913),w=v("matchAll"),O="RegExp String",E="RegExp String Iterator",S=m.set,j=m.getterFor(E),P=RegExp.prototype,T="".matchAll,A=!!T&&!d((function(){"a".matchAll(/./)})),_=o((function(t,r,e,n){S(this,{type:E,regexp:t,string:r,global:e,unicode:n,done:!1})}),O,(function(){var t=j(this);if(t.done)return{value:void 0,done:!0};var r=t.regexp,e=t.string,n=b(r,e);return null===n?{value:void 0,done:t.done=!0}:t.global?(""===a(n[0])&&(r.lastIndex=g(e,c(r.lastIndex),t.unicode)),{value:n,done:!1}):(t.done=!0,{value:n,done:!1})})),I=function(t){var r,e,n,o,i,s,f=u(this),p=a(t);return r=y(f,RegExp),void 0===(e=f.flags)&&f instanceof RegExp&&!("flags"in P)&&(e=l.call(f)),n=void 0===e?"":a(e),o=new r(r===RegExp?f.source:f,n),i=!!~n.indexOf("g"),s=!!~n.indexOf("u"),o.lastIndex=c(f.lastIndex),new _(o,p,i,s)};n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:A},{matchAll:function(t){var r,e,n,o=i(this);if(null!=t){if(f(t)&&!~a(i("flags"in P?t.flags:l.call(t))).indexOf("g"))throw TypeError("`.matchAll` does not allow non-global regexes");if(A)return T.apply(o,arguments);if(void 0===(e=p(t,w))&&x&&"RegExp"==s(t)&&(e=I),e)return e.call(t,o)}else if(A)return T.apply(o,arguments);return r=a(o),n=new RegExp(t,"g"),x?I.call(n,r):n[w](r)}}),x||w in P||h(P,w,I)},4723:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(7007),o=e(9670),i=e(7466),c=e(1340),a=e(4488),u=e(8173),s=e(1530),f=e(7651);n("match",(function(t,r,e){return[function(r){var e=a(this),n=null==r?void 0:u(r,t);return n?n.call(r,e):new RegExp(r)[t](c(e))},function(t){var n=o(this),a=c(t),u=e(r,n,a);if(u.done)return u.value;if(!n.global)return f(n,a);var l=n.unicode;n.lastIndex=0;for(var p,h=[],d=0;null!==(p=f(n,a));){var v=c(p[0]);h[d]=v,""===v&&(n.lastIndex=s(a,i(n.lastIndex),l)),d++}return 0===d?null:h}]}))},6528:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(6650).end;n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(4986)},{padEnd:function(t){return o(this,t,arguments.length>1?arguments[1]:void 0)}})},3112:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(6650).start;n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(4986)},{padStart:function(t){return o(this,t,arguments.length>1?arguments[1]:void 0)}})},8992:function(t,r,e){var n=e(2109),o=e(5656),i=e(7908),c=e(7466),a=e(1340),u=Array.prototype,s=u.push,f=u.join;n({target:"String",stat:!0},{raw:function(t){for(var r=o(i(t).raw),e=c(r.length),n=arguments.length,u=[],l=0;e>l;)s.call(u,a(r[l++])),l<n&&s.call(u,a(arguments[l]));return f.call(u,"")}})},2481:function(t,r,e){e(2109)({target:"String",proto:!0},{repeat:e(8415)})},8757:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4488),i=e(614),c=e(7850),a=e(1340),u=e(8173),s=e(7066),f=e(647),l=e(5112),p=e(1913),h=l("replace"),d=RegExp.prototype,v=Math.max,y=function(t,r,e){return e>t.length?-1:""===r?e:t.indexOf(r,e)};n({target:"String",proto:!0},{replaceAll:function(t,r){var e,n,l,g,b,m,x,w,O=o(this),E=0,S=0,j="";if(null!=t){if((e=c(t))&&!~a(o("flags"in d?t.flags:s.call(t))).indexOf("g"))throw TypeError("`.replaceAll` does not allow non-global regexes");if(n=u(t,h))return n.call(t,O,r);if(p&&e)return a(O).replace(t,r)}for(l=a(O),g=a(t),(b=i(r))||(r=a(r)),m=g.length,x=v(1,m),E=y(l,g,0);-1!==E;)w=b?a(r(g,E,l)):f(g,l,E,[],void 0,r),j+=l.slice(S,E)+w,S=E+m,E=y(l,g,E+x);return S<l.length&&(j+=l.slice(S)),j}})},5306:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(7007),o=e(7293),i=e(9670),c=e(614),a=e(9958),u=e(7466),s=e(1340),f=e(4488),l=e(1530),p=e(8173),h=e(647),d=e(7651),v=e(5112)("replace"),y=Math.max,g=Math.min,b="$0"==="a".replace(/./,"$0"),m=!!/./[v]&&""===/./[v]("a","$0");n("replace",(function(t,r,e){var n=m?"$":"$0";return[function(t,e){var n=f(this),o=null==t?void 0:p(t,v);return o?o.call(t,n,e):r.call(s(n),t,e)},function(t,o){var f=i(this),p=s(t);if("string"==typeof o&&-1===o.indexOf(n)&&-1===o.indexOf("$<")){var v=e(r,f,p,o);if(v.done)return v.value}var b=c(o);b||(o=s(o));var m=f.global;if(m){var x=f.unicode;f.lastIndex=0}for(var w=[];;){var O=d(f,p);if(null===O)break;if(w.push(O),!m)break;""===s(O[0])&&(f.lastIndex=l(p,u(f.lastIndex),x))}for(var E,S="",j=0,P=0;P<w.length;P++){O=w[P];for(var T=s(O[0]),A=y(g(a(O.index),p.length),0),_=[],I=1;I<O.length;I++)_.push(void 0===(E=O[I])?E:String(E));var R=O.groups;if(b){var L=[T].concat(_,A,p);void 0!==R&&L.push(R);var k=s(o.apply(void 0,L))}else k=h(T,p,A,_,R,o);A>=j&&(S+=p.slice(j,A)+k,j=A+T.length)}return S+p.slice(j)}]}),!!o((function(){var t=/./;return t.exec=function(){var t=[];return t.groups={a:"7"},t},"7"!=="".replace(t,"$<a>")}))||!b||m)},4765:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(7007),o=e(9670),i=e(4488),c=e(6029),a=e(1340),u=e(8173),s=e(7651);n("search",(function(t,r,e){return[function(r){var e=i(this),n=null==r?void 0:u(r,t);return n?n.call(r,e):new RegExp(r)[t](a(e))},function(t){var n=o(this),i=a(t),u=e(r,n,i);if(u.done)return u.value;var f=n.lastIndex;c(f,0)||(n.lastIndex=0);var l=s(n,i);return c(n.lastIndex,f)||(n.lastIndex=f),null===l?-1:l.index}]}))},7268:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("small")},{small:function(){return o(this,"small","","")}})},3123:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(7007),o=e(7850),i=e(9670),c=e(4488),a=e(6707),u=e(1530),s=e(7466),f=e(1340),l=e(8173),p=e(7651),h=e(2261),d=e(2999),v=e(7293),y=d.UNSUPPORTED_Y,g=[].push,b=Math.min,m=4294967295;n("split",(function(t,r,e){var n;return n="c"=="abbc".split(/(b)*/)[1]||4!="test".split(/(?:)/,-1).length||2!="ab".split(/(?:ab)*/).length||4!=".".split(/(.?)(.?)/).length||".".split(/()()/).length>1||"".split(/.?/).length?function(t,e){var n=f(c(this)),i=void 0===e?m:e>>>0;if(0===i)return[];if(void 0===t)return[n];if(!o(t))return r.call(n,t,i);for(var a,u,s,l=[],p=(t.ignoreCase?"i":"")+(t.multiline?"m":"")+(t.unicode?"u":"")+(t.sticky?"y":""),d=0,v=new RegExp(t.source,p+"g");(a=h.call(v,n))&&!((u=v.lastIndex)>d&&(l.push(n.slice(d,a.index)),a.length>1&&a.index<n.length&&g.apply(l,a.slice(1)),s=a[0].length,d=u,l.length>=i));)v.lastIndex===a.index&&v.lastIndex++;return d===n.length?!s&&v.test("")||l.push(""):l.push(n.slice(d)),l.length>i?l.slice(0,i):l}:"0".split(void 0,0).length?function(t,e){return void 0===t&&0===e?[]:r.call(this,t,e)}:r,[function(r,e){var o=c(this),i=null==r?void 0:l(r,t);return i?i.call(r,o,e):n.call(f(o),r,e)},function(t,o){var c=i(this),l=f(t),h=e(n,c,l,o,n!==r);if(h.done)return h.value;var d=a(c,RegExp),v=c.unicode,g=(c.ignoreCase?"i":"")+(c.multiline?"m":"")+(c.unicode?"u":"")+(y?"g":"y"),x=new d(y?"^(?:"+c.source+")":c,g),w=void 0===o?m:o>>>0;if(0===w)return[];if(0===l.length)return null===p(x,l)?[l]:[];for(var O=0,E=0,S=[];E<l.length;){x.lastIndex=y?0:E;var j,P=p(x,y?l.slice(E):l);if(null===P||(j=b(s(x.lastIndex+(y?E:0)),l.length))===O)E=u(l,E,v);else{if(S.push(l.slice(O,E)),S.length===w)return S;for(var T=1;T<=P.length-1;T++)if(S.push(P[T]),S.length===w)return S;E=O=j}}return S.push(l.slice(O)),S}]}),!!v((function(){var t=/(?:)/,r=t.exec;t.exec=function(){return r.apply(this,arguments)};var e="ab".split(t);return 2!==e.length||"a"!==e[0]||"b"!==e[1]})),y)},3157:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n,o=e(2109),i=e(1236).f,c=e(7466),a=e(1340),u=e(3929),s=e(4488),f=e(4964),l=e(1913),p="".startsWith,h=Math.min,d=f("startsWith");o({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:!!(l||d||(n=i(String.prototype,"startsWith"),!n||n.writable))&&!d},{startsWith:function(t){var r=a(s(this));u(t);var e=c(h(arguments.length>1?arguments[1]:void 0,r.length)),n=a(t);return p?p.call(r,n,e):r.slice(e,e+n.length)===n}})},7397:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("strike")},{strike:function(){return o(this,"strike","","")}})},86:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("sub")},{sub:function(){return o(this,"sub","","")}})},3650:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4488),i=e(9958),c=e(1340),a="".slice,u=Math.max,s=Math.min;n({target:"String",proto:!0},{substr:function(t,r){var e,n,f=c(o(this)),l=f.length,p=i(t);return p===1/0&&(p=0),p<0&&(p=u(l+p,0)),(e=void 0===r?l:i(r))<=0||e===1/0||p>=(n=s(p+e,l))?"":a.call(f,p,n)}})},623:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(4230);n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(3429)("sup")},{sup:function(){return o(this,"sup","","")}})},8702:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(3111).end,i=e(6091)("trimEnd"),c=i?function(){return o(this)}:"".trimEnd;n({target:"String",proto:!0,name:"trimEnd",forced:i},{trimEnd:c,trimRight:c})},5674:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(3111).start,i=e(6091)("trimStart"),c=i?function(){return o(this)}:"".trimStart;n({target:"String",proto:!0,name:"trimStart",forced:i},{trimStart:c,trimLeft:c})},3210:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n=e(2109),o=e(3111).trim;n({target:"String",proto:!0,forced:e(6091)("trim")},{trim:function(){return o(this)}})},3948:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7854),o=e(8324),i=e(8509),c=e(6992),a=e(8880),u=e(5112),s=u("iterator"),f=u("toStringTag"),l=c.values,p=function(t,r){if(t){if(t[s]!==l)try{a(t,s,l)}catch(r){t[s]=l}if(t[f]||a(t,f,r),o[r])for(var e in c)if(t[e]!==c[e])try{a(t,e,c[e])}catch(r){t[e]=c[e]}}};for(var h in o)p(n[h]&&n[h].prototype,h);p(i,"DOMTokenList")},1150:function(t,r,e){var n=e(7633);e(3948),t.exports=n},9712:function(t,r,e){var n=e(1111);t.exports=n},5666:function(t){var r=function(t){"use strict";var r,e=Object.prototype,n=e.hasOwnProperty,o="function"==typeof Symbol?Symbol:{},i=o.iterator||"@@iterator",c=o.asyncIterator||"@@asyncIterator",a=o.toStringTag||"@@toStringTag";function u(t,r,e){return Object.defineProperty(t,r,{value:e,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}),t[r]}try{u({},"")}catch(t){u=function(t,r,e){return t[r]=e}}function s(t,r,e,n){var o=r&&r.prototype instanceof y?r:y,i=Object.create(o.prototype),c=new A(n||[]);return i._invoke=function(t,r,e){var n=l;return function(o,i){if(n===h)throw new Error("Generator is already running");if(n===d){if("throw"===o)throw i;return I()}for(e.method=o,e.arg=i;;){var c=e.delegate;if(c){var a=j(c,e);if(a){if(a===v)continue;return a}}if("next"===e.method)e.sent=e._sent=e.arg;else if("throw"===e.method){if(n===l)throw n=d,e.arg;e.dispatchException(e.arg)}else"return"===e.method&&e.abrupt("return",e.arg);n=h;var u=f(t,r,e);if("normal"===u.type){if(n=e.done?d:p,u.arg===v)continue;return{value:u.arg,done:e.done}}"throw"===u.type&&(n=d,e.method="throw",e.arg=u.arg)}}}(t,e,c),i}function f(t,r,e){try{return{type:"normal",arg:t.call(r,e)}}catch(t){return{type:"throw",arg:t}}}t.wrap=s;var l="suspendedStart",p="suspendedYield",h="executing",d="completed",v={};function y(){}function g(){}function b(){}var m={};m[i]=function(){return this};var x=Object.getPrototypeOf,w=x&&x(x(_([])));w&&w!==e&&n.call(w,i)&&(m=w);var O=b.prototype=y.prototype=Object.create(m);function E(t){["next","throw","return"].forEach((function(r){u(t,r,(function(t){return this._invoke(r,t)}))}))}function S(t,r){function e(o,i,c,a){var u=f(t[o],t,i);if("throw"!==u.type){var s=u.arg,l=s.value;return l&&"object"==typeof l&&n.call(l,"__await")?r.resolve(l.__await).then((function(t){e("next",t,c,a)}),(function(t){e("throw",t,c,a)})):r.resolve(l).then((function(t){s.value=t,c(s)}),(function(t){return e("throw",t,c,a)}))}a(u.arg)}var o;this._invoke=function(t,n){function i(){return new r((function(r,o){e(t,n,r,o)}))}return o=o?o.then(i,i):i()}}function j(t,e){var n=t.iterator[e.method];if(n===r){if(e.delegate=null,"throw"===e.method){if(t.iterator.return&&(e.method="return",e.arg=r,j(t,e),"throw"===e.method))return v;e.method="throw",e.arg=new TypeError("The iterator does not provide a 'throw' method")}return v}var o=f(n,t.iterator,e.arg);if("throw"===o.type)return e.method="throw",e.arg=o.arg,e.delegate=null,v;var i=o.arg;return i?i.done?(e[t.resultName]=i.value,e.next=t.nextLoc,"return"!==e.method&&(e.method="next",e.arg=r),e.delegate=null,v):i:(e.method="throw",e.arg=new TypeError("iterator result is not an object"),e.delegate=null,v)}function P(t){var r={tryLoc:t[0]};1 in t&&(r.catchLoc=t[1]),2 in t&&(r.finallyLoc=t[2],r.afterLoc=t[3]),this.tryEntries.push(r)}function T(t){var r=t.completion||{};r.type="normal",delete r.arg,t.completion=r}function A(t){this.tryEntries=[{tryLoc:"root"}],t.forEach(P,this),this.reset(!0)}function _(t){if(t){var e=t[i];if(e)return e.call(t);if("function"==typeof t.next)return t;if(!isNaN(t.length)){var o=-1,c=function e(){for(;++o<t.length;)if(n.call(t,o))return e.value=t[o],e.done=!1,e;return e.value=r,e.done=!0,e};return c.next=c}}return{next:I}}function I(){return{value:r,done:!0}}return g.prototype=O.constructor=b,b.constructor=g,g.displayName=u(b,a,"GeneratorFunction"),t.isGeneratorFunction=function(t){var r="function"==typeof t&&t.constructor;return!!r&&(r===g||"GeneratorFunction"===(r.displayName||r.name))},t.mark=function(t){return Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf(t,b):(t.__proto__=b,u(t,a,"GeneratorFunction")),t.prototype=Object.create(O),t},t.awrap=function(t){return{__await:t}},E(S.prototype),S.prototype[c]=function(){return this},t.AsyncIterator=S,t.async=function(r,e,n,o,i){void 0===i&&(i=Promise);var c=new S(s(r,e,n,o),i);return t.isGeneratorFunction(e)?c:c.next().then((function(t){return t.done?t.value:c.next()}))},E(O),u(O,a,"Generator"),O[i]=function(){return this},O.toString=function(){return"[object Generator]"},t.keys=function(t){var r=[];for(var e in t)r.push(e);return r.reverse(),function e(){for(;r.length;){var n=r.pop();if(n in t)return e.value=n,e.done=!1,e}return e.done=!0,e}},t.values=_,A.prototype={constructor:A,reset:function(t){if(this.prev=0,this.next=0,this.sent=this._sent=r,this.done=!1,this.delegate=null,this.method="next",this.arg=r,this.tryEntries.forEach(T),!t)for(var e in this)"t"===e.charAt(0)&&n.call(this,e)&&!isNaN(+e.slice(1))&&(this[e]=r)},stop:function(){this.done=!0;var t=this.tryEntries[0].completion;if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return this.rval},dispatchException:function(t){if(this.done)throw t;var e=this;function o(n,o){return a.type="throw",a.arg=t,e.next=n,o&&(e.method="next",e.arg=r),!!o}for(var i=this.tryEntries.length-1;i>=0;--i){var c=this.tryEntries[i],a=c.completion;if("root"===c.tryLoc)return o("end");if(c.tryLoc<=this.prev){var u=n.call(c,"catchLoc"),s=n.call(c,"finallyLoc");if(u&&s){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0);if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}else if(u){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0)}else{if(!s)throw new Error("try statement without catch or finally");if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}}}},abrupt:function(t,r){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var o=this.tryEntries[e];if(o.tryLoc<=this.prev&&n.call(o,"finallyLoc")&&this.prev<o.finallyLoc){var i=o;break}}i&&("break"===t||"continue"===t)&&i.tryLoc<=r&&r<=i.finallyLoc&&(i=null);var c=i?i.completion:{};return c.type=t,c.arg=r,i?(this.method="next",this.next=i.finallyLoc,v):this.complete(c)},complete:function(t,r){if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return"break"===t.type||"continue"===t.type?this.next=t.arg:"return"===t.type?(this.rval=this.arg=t.arg,this.method="return",this.next="end"):"normal"===t.type&&r&&(this.next=r),v},finish:function(t){for(var r=this.tryEntries.length-1;r>=0;--r){var e=this.tryEntries[r];if(e.finallyLoc===t)return this.complete(e.completion,e.afterLoc),T(e),v}},catch:function(t){for(var r=this.tryEntries.length-1;r>=0;--r){var e=this.tryEntries[r];if(e.tryLoc===t){var n=e.completion;if("throw"===n.type){var o=n.arg;T(e)}return o}}throw new Error("illegal catch attempt")},delegateYield:function(t,e,n){return this.delegate={iterator:_(t),resultName:e,nextLoc:n},"next"===this.method&&(this.arg=r),v}},t}(t.exports);try{regeneratorRuntime=r}catch(t){Function("r","regeneratorRuntime = r")(r)}},7147:function(t,r,e){"use strict";var n="undefined"!=typeof globalThis&&globalThis||"undefined"!=typeof self&&self||void 0!==n&&n,o="URLSearchParams"in n,i="Symbol"in n&&"iterator"in Symbol,c="FileReader"in n&&"Blob"in n&&function(){try{return new Blob,!0}catch(t){return!1}}(),a="FormData"in n,u="ArrayBuffer"in n;if(u)var s=["[object Int8Array]","[object Uint8Array]","[object Uint8ClampedArray]","[object Int16Array]","[object Uint16Array]","[object Int32Array]","[object Uint32Array]","[object Float32Array]","[object Float64Array]"],f=ArrayBuffer.isView||function(t){return t&&s.indexOf(Object.prototype.toString.call(t))>-1};function l(t){if("string"!=typeof t&&(t=String(t)),/[^a-z0-9\-#$%&'*+.^_`|~!]/i.test(t)||""===t)throw new TypeError('Invalid character in header field name: "'+t+'"');return t.toLowerCase()}function p(t){return"string"!=typeof t&&(t=String(t)),t}function h(t){var r={next:function(){var r=t.shift();return{done:void 0===r,value:r}}};return i&&(r[Symbol.iterator]=function(){return r}),r}function d(t){this.map={},t instanceof d?t.forEach((function(t,r){this.append(r,t)}),this):Array.isArray(t)?t.forEach((function(t){this.append(t[0],t[1])}),this):t&&Object.getOwnPropertyNames(t).forEach((function(r){this.append(r,t[r])}),this)}function v(t){if(t.bodyUsed)return Promise.reject(new TypeError("Already read"));t.bodyUsed=!0}function y(t){return new Promise((function(r,e){t.onload=function(){r(t.result)},t.onerror=function(){e(t.error)}}))}function g(t){var r=new FileReader,e=y(r);return r.readAsArrayBuffer(t),e}function b(t){if(t.slice)return t.slice(0);var r=new Uint8Array(t.byteLength);return r.set(new Uint8Array(t)),r.buffer}function m(){return this.bodyUsed=!1,this._initBody=function(t){var r;this.bodyUsed=this.bodyUsed,this._bodyInit=t,t?"string"==typeof t?this._bodyText=t:c&&Blob.prototype.isPrototypeOf(t)?this._bodyBlob=t:a&&FormData.prototype.isPrototypeOf(t)?this._bodyFormData=t:o&&URLSearchParams.prototype.isPrototypeOf(t)?this._bodyText=t.toString():u&&c&&((r=t)&&DataView.prototype.isPrototypeOf(r))?(this._bodyArrayBuffer=b(t.buffer),this._bodyInit=new Blob([this._bodyArrayBuffer])):u&&(ArrayBuffer.prototype.isPrototypeOf(t)||f(t))?this._bodyArrayBuffer=b(t):this._bodyText=t=Object.prototype.toString.call(t):this._bodyText="",this.headers.get("content-type")||("string"==typeof t?this.headers.set("content-type","text/plain;charset=UTF-8"):this._bodyBlob&&this._bodyBlob.type?this.headers.set("content-type",this._bodyBlob.type):o&&URLSearchParams.prototype.isPrototypeOf(t)&&this.headers.set("content-type","application/x-www-form-urlencoded;charset=UTF-8"))},c&&(this.blob=function(){var t=v(this);if(t)return t;if(this._bodyBlob)return Promise.resolve(this._bodyBlob);if(this._bodyArrayBuffer)return Promise.resolve(new Blob([this._bodyArrayBuffer]));if(this._bodyFormData)throw new Error("could not read FormData body as blob");return Promise.resolve(new Blob([this._bodyText]))},this.arrayBuffer=function(){if(this._bodyArrayBuffer){var t=v(this);return t||(ArrayBuffer.isView(this._bodyArrayBuffer)?Promise.resolve(this._bodyArrayBuffer.buffer.slice(this._bodyArrayBuffer.byteOffset,this._bodyArrayBuffer.byteOffset+this._bodyArrayBuffer.byteLength)):Promise.resolve(this._bodyArrayBuffer))}return this.blob().then(g)}),this.text=function(){var t,r,e,n=v(this);if(n)return n;if(this._bodyBlob)return t=this._bodyBlob,r=new FileReader,e=y(r),r.readAsText(t),e;if(this._bodyArrayBuffer)return Promise.resolve(function(t){for(var r=new Uint8Array(t),e=new Array(r.length),n=0;n<r.length;n++)e[n]=String.fromCharCode(r[n]);return e.join("")}(this._bodyArrayBuffer));if(this._bodyFormData)throw new Error("could not read FormData body as text");return Promise.resolve(this._bodyText)},a&&(this.formData=function(){return this.text().then(O)}),this.json=function(){return this.text().then(JSON.parse)},this}d.prototype.append=function(t,r){t=l(t),r=p(r);var e=this.map[t];this.map[t]=e?e+", "+r:r},d.prototype.delete=function(t){delete this.map[l(t)]},d.prototype.get=function(t){return t=l(t),this.has(t)?this.map[t]:null},d.prototype.has=function(t){return this.map.hasOwnProperty(l(t))},d.prototype.set=function(t,r){this.map[l(t)]=p(r)},d.prototype.forEach=function(t,r){for(var e in this.map)this.map.hasOwnProperty(e)&&t.call(r,this.map[e],e,this)},d.prototype.keys=function(){var t=[];return this.forEach((function(r,e){t.push(e)})),h(t)},d.prototype.values=function(){var t=[];return this.forEach((function(r){t.push(r)})),h(t)},d.prototype.entries=function(){var t=[];return this.forEach((function(r,e){t.push([e,r])})),h(t)},i&&(d.prototype[Symbol.iterator]=d.prototype.entries);var x=["DELETE","GET","HEAD","OPTIONS","POST","PUT"];function w(t,r){if(!(this instanceof w))throw new TypeError('Please use the "new" operator, this DOM object constructor cannot be called as a function.');var e,n,o=(r=r||{}).body;if(t instanceof w){if(t.bodyUsed)throw new TypeError("Already read");this.url=t.url,this.credentials=t.credentials,r.headers||(this.headers=new d(t.headers)),this.method=t.method,this.mode=t.mode,this.signal=t.signal,o||null==t._bodyInit||(o=t._bodyInit,t.bodyUsed=!0)}else this.url=String(t);if(this.credentials=r.credentials||this.credentials||"same-origin",!r.headers&&this.headers||(this.headers=new d(r.headers)),this.method=(e=r.method||this.method||"GET",n=e.toUpperCase(),x.indexOf(n)>-1?n:e),this.mode=r.mode||this.mode||null,this.signal=r.signal||this.signal,this.referrer=null,("GET"===this.method||"HEAD"===this.method)&&o)throw new TypeError("Body not allowed for GET or HEAD requests");if(this._initBody(o),!("GET"!==this.method&&"HEAD"!==this.method||"no-store"!==r.cache&&"no-cache"!==r.cache)){var i=/([?&])_=[^&]*/;if(i.test(this.url))this.url=this.url.replace(i,"$1_="+(new Date).getTime());else{this.url+=(/\?/.test(this.url)?"&":"?")+"_="+(new Date).getTime()}}}function O(t){var r=new FormData;return t.trim().split("&").forEach((function(t){if(t){var e=t.split("="),n=e.shift().replace(/\+/g," "),o=e.join("=").replace(/\+/g," ");r.append(decodeURIComponent(n),decodeURIComponent(o))}})),r}function E(t,r){if(!(this instanceof E))throw new TypeError('Please use the "new" operator, this DOM object constructor cannot be called as a function.');r||(r={}),this.type="default",this.status=void 0===r.status?200:r.status,this.ok=this.status>=200&&this.status<300,this.statusText=void 0===r.statusText?"":""+r.statusText,this.headers=new d(r.headers),this.url=r.url||"",this._initBody(t)}w.prototype.clone=function(){return new w(this,{body:this._bodyInit})},m.call(w.prototype),m.call(E.prototype),E.prototype.clone=function(){return new E(this._bodyInit,{status:this.status,statusText:this.statusText,headers:new d(this.headers),url:this.url})},E.error=function(){var t=new E(null,{status:0,statusText:""});return t.type="error",t};var S=[301,302,303,307,308];E.redirect=function(t,r){if(-1===S.indexOf(r))throw new RangeError("Invalid status code");return new E(null,{status:r,headers:{location:t}})};var j=n.DOMException;try{new j}catch(t){(j=function(t,r){this.message=t,this.name=r;var e=Error(t);this.stack=e.stack}).prototype=Object.create(Error.prototype),j.prototype.constructor=j}function P(t,r){return new Promise((function(e,o){var i=new w(t,r);if(i.signal&&i.signal.aborted)return o(new j("Aborted","AbortError"));var a=new XMLHttpRequest;function s(){a.abort()}a.onload=function(){var t,r,n={status:a.status,statusText:a.statusText,headers:(t=a.getAllResponseHeaders()||"",r=new d,t.replace(/\r?\n[\t ]+/g," ").split("\r").map((function(t){return 0===t.indexOf("\n")?t.substr(1,t.length):t})).forEach((function(t){var e=t.split(":"),n=e.shift().trim();if(n){var o=e.join(":").trim();r.append(n,o)}})),r)};n.url="responseURL"in a?a.responseURL:n.headers.get("X-Request-URL");var o="response"in a?a.response:a.responseText;setTimeout((function(){e(new E(o,n))}),0)},a.onerror=function(){setTimeout((function(){o(new TypeError("Network request failed"))}),0)},a.ontimeout=function(){setTimeout((function(){o(new TypeError("Network request failed"))}),0)},a.onabort=function(){setTimeout((function(){o(new j("Aborted","AbortError"))}),0)},a.open(i.method,function(t){try{return""===t&&n.location.href?n.location.href:t}catch(r){return t}}(i.url),!0),"include"===i.credentials?a.withCredentials=!0:"omit"===i.credentials&&(a.withCredentials=!1),"responseType"in a&&(c?a.responseType="blob":u&&i.headers.get("Content-Type")&&-1!==i.headers.get("Content-Type").indexOf("application/octet-stream")&&(a.responseType="arraybuffer")),!r||"object"!=typeof r.headers||r.headers instanceof d?i.headers.forEach((function(t,r){a.setRequestHeader(r,t)})):Object.getOwnPropertyNames(r.headers).forEach((function(t){a.setRequestHeader(t,p(r.headers[t]))})),i.signal&&(i.signal.addEventListener("abort",s),a.onreadystatechange=function(){4===a.readyState&&i.signal.removeEventListener("abort",s)}),a.send(void 0===i._bodyInit?null:i._bodyInit)}))}P.polyfill=!0,n.fetch||(n.fetch=P,n.Headers=d,n.Request=w,n.Response=E)}},r={};function e(n){var o=r[n];if(void 0!==o)return o.exports;var i=r[n]={exports:{}};return t[n](i,i.exports,e),i.exports}e.d=function(t,r){for(var n in r)e.o(r,n)&&!e.o(t,n)&&Object.defineProperty(t,n,{enumerable:!0,get:r[n]})},e.g=function(){if("object"==typeof globalThis)return globalThis;try{return this||new Function("return this")()}catch(t){if("object"==typeof window)return window}}(),e.o=function(t,r){return Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(t,r)},e(5666),e(1150),e(9712),e(7147);e(3053)}(); window.page = undefined; window.user = undefined; </script> <script> window.orb = { worldwideNavlinks: '<li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/">Home</a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/news">News</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/sport">Sport</a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/reel">Reel</a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/worklife">Worklife</a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel">Travel</a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/future">Future</a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/culture">Culture</a></li><li class="orb-nav-music"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/culture/music">Music</a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m">TV</a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/weather">Weather</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds">Sounds</a></li>', } </script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/api-forge-free.min.js"></script> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Rg.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Bd.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin>        <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.54.4/style/id-cta.css"/><script type="text/javascript">(function () {if (!window.require) {throw new Error('idcta: could not find require module');}if (typeof (map) == 'undefined') {var map = {};}if (!!document.createElementNS && !!document.createElementNS('http://www.w3.org/2000/svg', 'svg').createSVGRect) {document.documentElement.className += ' id-svg';}var ptrt = new RegExp("[\\?&]ptrt=([^&]*)").exec(document.location.href);var ENDPOINT_URL = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://idcta.api.bbc.co.uk';var ENDPOINT_CONFIG = ('/idcta/config?callback=&ptrt=' + (ptrt ? ptrt[1] : encodeURIComponent(document.location.href))).replace(/\&/g, '&');var ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS = '/idcta/translations?callback=';function hasPromise() {var P = window.Promise;var promiseToString = null;if (P) {try {promiseToString = Object.prototype.toString.call(P.resolve());} catch (e) {/*silently ignored*/}}return (promiseToString === '[object Promise]' && !P.cast);}if (hasPromise()) {define('idcta/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});define('idcta-v2/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});}map['idcta-v2'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.54.4/modules/idcta-v2';map['idcta-v2/config'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_CONFIG;map['idcta-v2/translations'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS;map['idcta'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.8.2/modules/idcta';map['idcta-v2/idcta-1'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.54.4/modules/idcta-v2/dist/idcta-1.min';map['idcta-v2/experiment-snippet'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/idcta_live';const idctaShim = {deps: ['idcta-v2/idcta-1'],};require({shim: {'idcta-v2/statusbar': idctaShim,'idcta-v2/id-config': idctaShim},map: {'*': {'idcta/idcta-1': 'idcta-v2/idcta-1','idcta': 'idcta-v2',}},paths: map});window.idctaBaseUrl = ENDPOINT_URL;define('idcta/config', ['idcta-v2/config'], function (data) { return data; });define('idcta/translations', ['idcta-v2/translations'], function (data) { return data; });})();</script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810cs_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/d3c099a283f4be8102b8b0bba5796dd7/css/box.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6868f40b6841deedfcf9895de775e1ab/cookie-banner/cookie-library.bundle.js"></script><script type="text/javascript">void 0!==window.define&&define("orb/cookies",function(){return window.bbccookies})</script> <script type="text/javascript">window.__detectview={clickManagementEnabled:false};</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";!function(){window.__reverbStaticLocation="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/",window.__smarttagVersion="5.29.1",window.__reverb={},window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise=new Promise(function(e,i){window.__reverb.__resolveReverbLoaded=e,window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded=i}),window.__reverb.__reverbTimeout=setTimeout(function(){window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded()},5e3);var i=function(d,a){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){if(d&&d.detail){var i=!!d.detail.item,n=d.detail.label,t=i?"viewability":d.detail.type,o=d.detail.elem,r=d.detail.originalEvent;d.detail.isClick&&(a=d.detail.isClick),e.userActionEvent(t,n,d.detail,o,r,a)}},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})},n=function(){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})};document.addEventListener("bbc-user-event",function(e){i(e,!1)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-user-click",function(e){i(e,!0)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",n),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&n()})}();</script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/reverb-3.3.0.js" async></script> <script type="text/javascript">const adsDebug=/[?|&]ads-debug/.test(window.location.href);var bbcdotcomConfig={},bbcdotcomForgeAsync=!0,googletag=window.googletag||{};googletag.cmd=window.googletag.cmd||[],bbcdotcomScripts=[],tp=window.tp||[],_comscore=window._comscore||[];var bbcdotcom={test:/test/.test(window.location.hostname),adverts:{keyValues:{},breakpoints:{}},advert:{write:function(){},show:function(){},isActive:function(){return!1},layout:function(){return{reset:function(){}}}},config:{init:function(){},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.push(o):o(!1)})},isAdsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.adsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},isAnalyticsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.analyticsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},setSections:function(){},setAdsEnabled:function(){},setAnalyticsEnabled:function(){},setAssetPrefix:function(){},setFlagpoles:function(){},setVersion:function(){},setJsPrefix:function(){},setSwfPrefix:function(){},setCssPrefix:function(){},setConfig:function(){},getAssetPrefix:function(){},getJsPrefix:function(){},getSwfPrefix:function(){},getCssPrefix:function(){},isOptimizelyEnabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabledEU:function(){},setEU:function(){}},survey:{init:function(){return!1}},data:{},init:function(){},objects:function(o){return!1},locale:{set:function(){},get:function(){}},setAdKeyValue:function(){},utils:{addEvent:function(){},addHtmlTagClass:function(){},log:function(){}},addLoadEvent:function(){},resolves:{isAvailable:[],adsEnabled:[],analyticsEnabled:[]},resolvePromises:function(){if(bbcdotcom.resolves){for(var o=0;o<bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.length;o++)bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable[o](!1);delete bbcdotcom.resolves}},flag:{a:!1,s:!1},asyncCmd:[],isSportApp:function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},init:function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.init(o)})},slotAsync:function(o,n,t,c){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.slotAsync(o,n,t,c)})}};bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync=function(o,n,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync(o,n,t)})},bbcdotcom.config.isAdsEnabled=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isActive=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!0},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,n,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.registerAd(o,n,t)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit={},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid(o)})},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setConfig(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds=function(){bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds=!0},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset(o)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={},bbcdotcom.pubsub.on=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub.off=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.analytics={},bbcdotcom.analytics.page=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.analytics.page(o)})},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.config.isContinuousPlayPage=function(){return!1},bbcdotcom.config.isSportApp=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart(o,n)})},"undefined"!=typeof require&&require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/script"}}),window.bbcdotcom&&bbcdotcom.isSportApp&&!bbcdotcom.isSportApp()&&window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(o){return o&&!adsDebug?(adsDebug&&console.log("UK location, not ads debug mode, don't load flags, don't load ads."),(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void o.resolvePromises()):void window.bbcuser.canSeeAdverts().then(function(o){if(!o&&!adsDebug)return adsDebug&&console.log("canSeeAdverts false, not ads debug mode, don't load ads."),(n=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},n.config.isActive=function(){return!1},n.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},n.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void n.resolvePromises();var n=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops":"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops",e=new XMLHttpRequest;e.open("GET",n),e.onload=function(){var n,o,t=JSON.parse(e.responseText),c=window.bbcdotcom||{};c.flag.a="true"===t.adverts?1:0,c.flag.s="true"===t.analytics?1:0,c.flag.a||c.flag.s?(o=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom":"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom",(n=new XMLHttpRequest).open("GET",o),n.onload=function(){var c=JSON.parse(n.responseText),e=window.bbcdotcom||{};[{tp:"thirdPartyEEA"},{d:"adsense"},{asa:"adsportapp"},{l:"lotame"},{p:"platinum"},{g:"grapeshot"},{sh:"sherlock"},{pe:"permutive"},{si:"signin"},{sis:"signinSport"},{sin:"signinNews"},{siw:"signinWWHP"},{piano:"piano"},{fundingchoices_cmp:"fundingchoices_cmp"},{storyworks_cmp:"storyworks_cmp"},{content_rec:"content_rec"},{ias_publisher:"ias_publisher"},{fpd:"fpd"}].forEach(function(o,n){for(var t in o)e.flag[t]="true"===c[o[t]]?1:0}),e.data={ads:e.flag.a,stats:e.flag.s,statsProvider:"",country:""},function(){const o=document.createElement("link");o.href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/style/bbcdotcom-async.css",o.rel="stylesheet",o.type="text/css",document.head.appendChild(o)}();var o=document.createElement("script"),t=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/script/bbcdotcom.js",o.onload=function(){window.bbcuser.getCountry().then(function(o){e.data.country=o,e.assetPrefix="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/",bbcdotcomConfig={assetPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/",staticVersion:"20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0",staticPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20211005-115145-f94ae3cc3-4.56.0/"},e.config.init(bbcdotcomConfig,e.data,window.location,window.document),e.config.setAssetPrefix(bbcdotcomConfig.assetPrefix),e.config.setVersion(bbcdotcomConfig.staticVersion),e.config.setFlagpoles(e.flag);o=!!o&&-1!==["AT","BE","BG","HR","CY","CZ","DK","EE","FI","FR","DE","GR","HU","IE","IT","LV","LT","LU","MT","NL","PL","PT","RO","SK","SI","ES","SE","IS","LI","NO","CH"].indexOf(o.toUpperCase());e.config.setEU(o);var n,o=function(o){var n=document.createElement("link"),t=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];n.href=o,n.rel="dns-prefetch",t.appendChild(n)};e.flag.s&&(o("//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://secure-us.imrworldwide.com/"),o("//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://me-cdn.effectivemeasure.net/")),e.flag.a&&(o("//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.googletagservices.com/"),o("//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/"),(n=document.createElement("meta")).setAttribute("name","google-site-verification"),n.setAttribute("content","auTeTTwSt_KBY_4iDoR00Lwb7-qzx1IgzJy6ztaWgEI"),t.appendChild(n)),e.flag.a&&(e.config.isGrapeshotEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(n=window.location.href.split("?")[0],bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/?url="+encodeURIComponent(n)})),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js"}),e.config.isIASEnabled()&&(window.__iasPET=window.__iasPET||{},window.__iasPET.queue=window.__iasPET.queue||[],window.__iasPET.pubId="9708",bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://cdn.adsafeprotected.com/iasPET.1.js"}))),(e.flag.s||e.flag.a)&&(e.config.isPermutiveEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(function(t){if(!t){t=t||{},(window.permutive=t).q=[],t.config={consentRequired:!0},t.config.projectId="e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491",t.config.apiKey="1bb84885-9325-4fef-adda-a208032b2715",t.config.environment=t.config.environment||"production";for(var o=["addon","identify","track","trigger","query","segment","segments","ready","on","once","user","consent"],n=0;n<o.length;n++){var c=o[n];t[c]=function(n){return function(){var o=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0);t.q.push({functionName:n,arguments:o})}}(c)}}}((document,window.permutive)),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://cdn.permutive.com/e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491-web.js"})),bbcdotcomScripts.forEach(function(o){var n=document.createElement("script");n.async=!1,o.id&&(n.id=o.id),n.src=o.src,t.appendChild(n)}),window.bbcdotcom.config.isCmpEnabled()?(window.googlefc=window.googlefc||{},window.googlefc.callbackQueue=window.googlefc.callbackQueue||[],new Promise(function(t){window.googlefc.callbackQueue.push({CONSENT_DATA_READY:function(){window.__tcfapi("getTCData",2,function(o,n){n&&o.gdprApplies&&(window.bbcdotcom.consent={},window.bbcdotcom.gdprApplies=!0,window.bbcdotcom.consent.comscore=o.vendor.consents[77],window.bbcdotcom.consent.permutive=o.vendor.consents[360]&&o.vendor.consents[361],window.bbcdotcom.consent.googleads=o.vendor.consents[755],window.bbcdotcom.consent.nielsen=o.vendor.consents[373]&&o.vendor.consents[812],t(!0)),t(!0)},[77,164,360,361,373,755,812])}})}).then(function(){for(window.bbcdotcom.consentChecked=!0,window.bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds&&window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.unshift(function(){window.bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds()});window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}),function(){const o=document.createElement("script");o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/vendor/fundingchoices/cmp.js",document.head.appendChild(o)}()):function(){for(;window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}()),window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom up and running...")})},t.appendChild(o)},n.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},n.send()):((o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises())},e.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},e.send()})});</script> <style>/* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-line { background-color: #8beed9; height: 3px; width: 72px; } .styled-line--small { width: 45px; } .styled-line--medium { width: 135px; } .styled-line--large { height: 1px; width: auto; } .styled-line--height--large { height: 5px; } .styled-line--height--small { height: 1px; } .styled-line--xs-small { width: 25px; } .styled-line--worklife { background-color: #8beed9; } .styled-line--future { background-color: #ffc857; } .styled-line--culture { background-color: #472479; } .styled-line--earth { background-color: #002856; } .styled-line--travel { background-color: #002856; } .styled-line--white { background-color: #fff; } .styled-line--dark-grey { background-color: #6a6a6a; } .styled-line--light-grey { background-color: #4b4b4b; } .styled-line--grey { background-color: #dedede; } .article-intro { position: relative; } .article-intro__line { margin-top: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ @font-face { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/curious-sans-bold.b389ec59.eot), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/curious-sans-bold.b389ec59.eot) format("embedded-opentype"), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/curious-sans-bold.ba46d70f.ttf) format("truetype"); } @font-face { font-family: 'gelicons-core'; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-core.cc52df12.eot); src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-core.cc52df12.eot) format("embedded-opentype"), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-core.5435c223.ttf) format("truetype"); } @font-face { font-family: 'gelicons-media'; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-media.41063609.eot); src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-media.41063609.eot) format("embedded-opentype"), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-media.28e9b877.ttf) format("truetype"); } @font-face { font-family: 'gelicons-social'; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-social.523533c6.eot); src: url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-social.523533c6.eot) format("embedded-opentype"), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/media/gelicons-social.407b297d.ttf) format("truetype"); } .gelicon { font-family: 'gelicons-core'; } .gelicon, .gelicon::before { -moz-osx-font-smoothing: grayscale; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-style: normal !important; font-weight: normal !important; speak: none; text-decoration: none !important; } .gelicon--leading::before { margin-right: 8px; } .gelicon--trailing::before { margin-left: 8px; } .gelicon--social { font-family: 'gelicons-social' !important; } .gelicon--core { font-family: 'gelicons-core' !important; } /* Set font on all icons (need to do this as Opera doesn't fallback per Glyph) */ /* On the icon, not ::before as IE7 hack injects the icon into the element instead of a pseudo element */ .gelicon--iplayer, .gelicon--iplayer-radio, .gelicon--previous, .gelicon--up, .gelicon--down, .gelicon--next, .gelicon--tobottom, .gelicon--totop, .gelicon--zoomin, .gelicon--zoomout, .gelicon--search, .gelicon--print, .gelicon--print-invert, .gelicon--yes, .gelicon--no, .gelicon--add, .gelicon--help, .gelicon--info, .gelicon--alert, .gelicon--expires, .gelicon--duration, .gelicon--alarm, .gelicon--countdown, .gelicon--grid, .gelicon--chapters, .gelicon--list, .gelicon--listthumb, .gelicon--lock, .gelicon--unlock, .gelicon--home, .gelicon--new, .gelicon--vocab, .gelicon--degraded, .gelicon--calendar-mini, .gelicon--calendar, .gelicon--mail, .gelicon--location, .gelicon--load, .gelicon--settings, .gelicon--embed, .gelicon--external, .gelicon--traffic, .gelicon--refresh, .gelicon--link, .gelicon--point, .gelicon--upload, .gelicon--download, .gelicon--finder, .gelicon--stations, .gelicon--untitled, .gelicon--untitled-2, .gelicon--quote, .gelicon--calendar-30, .gelicon--download-desktop, .gelicon--map, .gelicon--previous-alternative, .gelicon--next-alternative, .gelicon--arrow-down { font-family: 'gelicons-core' !important; } /* Begin Icons */ .gelicon--iplayer::before { content: '\e000'; } .gelicon--iplayer-radio::before { content: '\e001'; } .gelicon--previous::before { content: '\e002'; } .gelicon--up::before { content: '\e003'; } .gelicon--down::before { content: '\e004'; } .gelicon--next::before { content: '\e005'; } .gelicon--tobottom::before { content: '\e006'; } .gelicon--totop::before { content: '\e007'; } .gelicon--zoomin::before { content: '\e008'; } .gelicon--zoomout::before { content: '\e00a'; } .gelicon--search::before { content: '\e009'; } .gelicon--print::before { content: '\e00b'; } .gelicon--print-invert::before { content: '\e00c'; } .gelicon--yes::before { content: '\e00d'; } .gelicon--no::before { content: '\e00e'; } .gelicon--add::before { content: '\e00f'; } .gelicon--help::before { content: '\e010'; } .gelicon--info::before { content: '\e011'; } .gelicon--alert::before { content: '\e012'; } .gelicon--expires::before { content: '\e013'; } .gelicon--duration::before { content: '\e014'; } .gelicon--alarm::before { content: '\e015'; } .gelicon--countdown::before { content: '\e016'; } .gelicon--grid::before { content: '\e017'; } .gelicon--chapters::before { content: '\e018'; } .gelicon--list::before { content: '\e019'; } .gelicon--listthumb::before { content: '\e01a'; } .gelicon--lock::before { content: '\e01b'; } .gelicon--unlock::before { content: '\e01c'; } .gelicon--home::before { content: '\e01d'; } .gelicon--new::before { content: '\e01e'; } .gelicon--vocab::before { content: '\e01f'; } .gelicon--degraded::before { content: '\e020'; } .gelicon--calendar-mini::before { content: '\e021'; } .gelicon--calendar::before { content: '\e022'; } .gelicon--mail::before { content: '\e023'; } .gelicon--location::before { content: '\e024'; } .gelicon--load::before { content: '\e025'; } .gelicon--settings::before { content: '\e026'; } .gelicon--embed::before { content: '\e027'; } .gelicon--external::before { content: '\e028'; } .gelicon--traffic::before { content: '\e029'; } .gelicon--refresh::before { content: '\e02a'; } .gelicon--link::before { content: '\e02b'; } .gelicon--point::before { content: '\e02c'; } .gelicon--upload::before { content: '\e02d'; } .gelicon--download::before { content: '\e02e'; } .gelicon--finder::before { content: '\e02f'; } .gelicon--stations::before { content: '\e030'; } .gelicon--untitled::before { content: '\42'; } .gelicon--untitled-2::before { content: '\43'; } .gelicon--quote::before { content: '\22'; } .gelicon--playlister-add::before { content: '\e031'; } .gelicon--calendar-30::before { content: '\e032'; } .gelicon--download-desktop::before { content: '\e033'; } .gelicon--map::before { content: '\e034'; } .gelicon--previous-alternative::before { content: '\e035'; } .gelicon--next-alternative::before { content: '\e036'; } .gelicon--arrow-down::before { content: '\e038'; } /* Media icons */ .gelicon--menu, .gelicon--live, .gelicon--subtitles, .gelicon--ws, .gelicon--sd, .gelicon--hd, .gelicon--bsl, .gelicon--ad, .gelicon--3d, .gelicon--tv, .gelicon--radio, .gelicon--mobile, .gelicon--desktop, .gelicon--game, .gelicon--tablet, .gelicon--quiz, .gelicon--guidance, .gelicon--record, .gelicon--listen, .gelicon--play, .gelicon--pause, .gelicon--rewind, .gelicon--forward, .gelicon--restart, .gelicon--image, .gelicon--document, .gelicon--slideshow, .gelicon--activity, .gelicon--360, .gelicon--podcast, .gelicon--newsletter, .gelicon--rss, .gelicon--fullscreen, .gelicon--expand, .gelicon--popout, .gelicon--mute, .gelicon--music-on, .gelicon--music-off, .gelicon--windows, .gelicon--apple, .gelicon--interactive { font-family: 'gelicons-media' !important; } /* Begin Icons */ .gelicon--menu::before { content: '\e900'; } .gelicon--live::before { content: '\e100'; } .gelicon--subtitles::before { content: '\e101'; } .gelicon--ws::before { content: '\e102'; } .gelicon--sd::before { content: '\e103'; } .gelicon--hd::before { content: '\e104'; } .gelicon--bsl::before { content: '\e105'; } .gelicon--ad::before { content: '\e106'; } .gelicon--3d::before { content: '\e107'; } .gelicon--tv::before { content: '\e108'; } .gelicon--radio::before { content: '\e109'; } .gelicon--mobile::before { content: '\e10a'; } .gelicon--desktop::before { content: '\e10b'; } .gelicon--game::before { content: '\e10c'; } .gelicon--tablet::before { content: '\e10d'; } .gelicon--quiz::before { content: '\e10e'; } .gelicon--guidance::before { content: '\e10f'; } .gelicon--record::before { content: '\e110'; } .gelicon--listen::before { content: '\e111'; } .gelicon--play::before { content: '\e112'; } .gelicon--pause::before { content: '\e113'; } .gelicon--rewind::before { content: '\e114'; } .gelicon--forward::before { content: '\e115'; } .gelicon--restart::before { content: '\e116'; } .gelicon--image::before { content: '\e117'; } .gelicon--document::before { content: '\e118'; } .gelicon--slideshow::before { content: '\e119'; } .gelicon--activity::before { content: '\e11a'; } .gelicon--360::before { content: '\e11b'; } .gelicon--podcast::before { content: '\e11c'; } .gelicon--newsletter::before { content: '\e11d'; } .gelicon--rss::before { content: '\e11e'; } .gelicon--fullscreen::before { content: '\e11f'; } .gelicon--expand::before { content: '\e120'; } .gelicon--popout::before { content: '\e121'; } .gelicon--mute::before { content: '\e122'; } .gelicon--music-on::before { content: '\e123'; } .gelicon--music-off::before { content: '\e124'; } .gelicon--windows::before { content: '\e125'; } .gelicon--apple::before { content: '\e126'; } .gelicon--interactive::before { content: '\e900'; } /* Social Icons */ .gelicon--share, .gelicon--recommend, .gelicon--comments, .gelicon--blog, .gelicon--smiley, .gelicon--love, .gelicon--twitter, .gelicon--facebook, .gelicon--google-plus, .gelicon--google, .gelicon--spotify, .gelicon--pinterest, .gelicon--tumblr, .gelicon--stumbleupon, .gelicon--linkedin, .gelicon--reddit, .gelicon--digg, .gelicon--instagram, .gelicon--whatsapp { font-family: 'gelicons-social' !important; } /* GEL */ .gelicon--share::before { content: '\e200'; } .gelicon--recommend::before { content: '\e201'; } .gelicon--comments::before { content: '\e202'; } .gelicon--blog::before { content: '\e203'; } .gelicon--smiley::before { content: '\e204'; } .gelicon--love::before { content: '\e205'; } /* THIRD PARTY */ .gelicon--twitter::before { content: '\e300'; } .gelicon--facebook::before { content: '\e301'; } .gelicon--google-plus::before { content: '\e700'; } .gelicon--google::before { content: '\e701'; } .gelicon--spotify::before { content: '\e304'; } .gelicon--pinterest::before { content: '\e305'; } .gelicon--tumblr::before { content: '\e306'; } .gelicon--stumbleupon::before { content: '\e307'; } .gelicon--linkedin::before { content: '\e308'; } .gelicon--reddit::before { content: '\e309'; } .gelicon--digg::before { content: '\e30a'; } .gelicon--instagram::before { content: '\e30b'; } .gelicon--whatsapp::before { content: '\e600'; } .mapboxgl-map { font: 12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); } .mapboxgl-canvas { position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; } .mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen { width: 100%; height: 100%; } .mapboxgl-canary { background-color: salmon; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass { cursor: -webkit-grab; cursor: grab; -moz-user-select: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer { cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active { cursor: -webkit-grabbing; cursor: grabbing; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pan-x pan-y; touch-action: pan-x pan-y; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pinch-zoom; touch-action: pinch-zoom; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: none; touch-action: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { position: absolute; pointer-events: none; z-index: 2; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left { bottom: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right { right: 0; bottom: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl { clear: both; pointer-events: auto; -webkit-transform: translate(0); transform: translate(0); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 0 0 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 10px 0 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 0 10px 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 10px 10px 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group { border-radius: 4px; background: #fff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button { width: 29px; height: 29px; display: block; padding: 0; outline: none; border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: transparent; cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid #ddd; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: 50%; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner { border: 0; padding: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled { cursor: not-allowed; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { opacity: .25; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible) { -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child { border-radius: 4px 4px 0 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child { border-radius: 0 0 4px 4px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child { border-radius: inherit; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); } } @keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); transform: rotate(1turn); } } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { width: 88px; height: 23px; margin: 0 0 -4px -4px; display: block; background-repeat: no-repeat; cursor: pointer; overflow: hidden; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20211027090810im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact { width: 23px; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { background-color: transparent; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20211027090810im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='3' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20211027090810im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib { padding: 0 5px; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); margin: 0; } @media screen { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact { min-height: 20px; padding: 0; margin: 10px; position: relative; background-color: #fff; border-radius: 3px 12px 12px 3px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 24px 2px 4px; visibility: visible; margin-top: 6px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 4px 2px 24px; border-radius: 12px 3px 3px 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: block; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { content: ""; cursor: pointer; position: absolute; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); width: 24px; height: 24px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; left: 0; } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a { color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.75); text-decoration: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover { color: inherit; text-decoration: underline; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map { font-weight: 700; margin-left: 2px; } .mapboxgl-attrib-empty { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-scale { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.75); font-size: 10px; border: 2px solid #333; border-top: #333; padding: 0 5px; color: #333; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .mapboxgl-popup { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; will-change: transform; pointer-events: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right { -ms-flex-direction: column-reverse; flex-direction: column-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right { -ms-flex-direction: row-reverse; flex-direction: row-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-tip { width: 0; height: 0; border: 10px solid transparent; z-index: 1; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-top: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-top: none; border-left: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-top: none; border-right: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-bottom: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-bottom: none; border-left: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-bottom: none; border-right: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-left: none; border-right-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-right: none; border-left-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button { position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; border: 0; border-radius: 0 3px 0 0; cursor: pointer; background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-popup-content { position: relative; background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); padding: 10px 10px 15px; pointer-events: auto; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer * { pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-marker { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; will-change: transform; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot, .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { background-color: #1da1f2; width: 15px; height: 15px; border-radius: 50%; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { content: ""; position: absolute; -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after { border-radius: 50%; border: 2px solid #fff; content: ""; height: 19px; left: -2px; position: absolute; top: -2px; width: 19px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } @keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale { background-color: #aaa; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after { display: none; } .mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle { background-color: rgba(29, 161, 242, 0.2); width: 1px; height: 1px; border-radius: 100%; } .mapboxgl-crosshair, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active { cursor: crosshair; } .mapboxgl-boxzoom { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 0; height: 0; background: #fff; border: 2px dotted #202020; opacity: .5; } @media print { .mapbox-improve-map { display: none; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .partner-module { border-bottom: 1px solid #472479; border-top: 0; } .partner-module__link, .partner-module__link:visited { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; padding: 0; text-decoration: none; } .partner-module__link:hover { background-color: #f5f5f5; } .partner-module__heading { display: inline-block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: 16px 0; } .partner-module__partner-name { font-weight: bold; } .partner-module__partner-logo { display: block; height: 31px; margin: 12px 0; margin-left: 17px; width: 88px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .author-unit { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; } .author-unit--small-mobile { line-height: 30px; } .author-unit .author-unit__container { color: #4a4a4a; margin: 0 auto; } .author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop { margin: 0; } .author-unit__container { -ms-flex-align: baseline; align-items: baseline; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 10px 0; } .author-unit__text { font-style: italic; font-weight: 600; padding-right: 10px; text-decoration: none; } .author-unit__icon { color: #6a6a6a; padding-right: 14px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; top: 1px; } .author-unit__icon:hover { color: #00bbf2; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .uppercase-label { color: #8f8d8d; font-size: 12px; font-style: condensed; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .uppercase-label--small { font-size: 11px; font-weight: 400; line-height: 14px; margin: 0; } .uppercase-label--medium { font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--reith-condensed { font-weight: 400; } .uppercase-label--white { color: #ebebeb; } .uppercase-label--light-grey { color: #999; } .uppercase-label--dark-grey { color: #444; } .uppercase-label--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--true-white { color: #fff; text-shadow: 0 1px 1px #193e6d; } .uppercase-label--arial { font-family: Arial; } .label-with-line { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .label-with-line__label { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .body-text-card-inline-video { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } .spinner { fill: #444; } .spinner__image { -webkit-animation: spin 1s linear infinite; animation: spin 1s linear infinite; } .spinner--worklife { fill: #8beed9; } .spinner--future { fill: #ffc857; } .spinner--culture { fill: #472479; } .spinner--travel { fill: #002856; } .spinner--earth { fill: #002856; } .spinner--white { fill: #fff; } .spinner--audio { height: 32px; width: 32px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-video { height: 100%; } .inline-video__container { position: relative; } .inline-video__border-line { padding: 0 10px; } .inline-video .play-button__inline-video { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 1000; } .inline-video__smp { background-color: #000; padding-bottom: 56.25%; } .inline-video__smp--loaded { background-color: unset; padding-bottom: unset; } .inline-video__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin: 0 10px 0 3%; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-video__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 28px 0 18px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-image__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); font-style: italic; margin: 0 10px; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-image__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 20px 0 18px; } .inline-image img { border-radius: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-quote { border-left: 3px solid #575757; color: #575757; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; margin: 0; padding-left: 22px; } .inline-quote--worklife { border-left: 3px solid #8beed9; } .inline-quote--future { border-left: 3px solid #ffc857; } .inline-quote--culture { border-left: 3px solid #472479; } .inline-quote--earth { border-left: 3px solid #002856; } .inline-quote h2 { font-weight: 300; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-audio-player { background: none; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container { display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div { /* CreateSMPAudio */ display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div { height: 50px; position: relative; /* stylelint-disable-next-line selector-max-compound-selectors */ } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div > div { padding: 0 !important; } .inline-audio-player__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-holder { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #ededed; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-right: 8px; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising * { cursor: initial; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button { opacity: 0.6; } .inline-audio-player__text { background: none; border: 0; color: #222; cursor: pointer; font-size: 18px; height: 25px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 25px; margin-left: 12px; outline: inherit; padding: 0; } .inline-audio-player__text--offline { cursor: default; pointer-events: none; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; left: -110px; line-height: 12px; margin-left: 0; padding: 0 7px; position: relative; top: 25px; width: 66px; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .inline-audio-player__inner-arrow { color: #4d4d49; font-size: 10px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button { background-color: transparent; border: 0; margin-left: auto; outline: none; -webkit-transition: all 0.5s ease; transition: all 0.5s ease; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open { -webkit-transform: rotate(180deg); transform: rotate(180deg); } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .inline-audio-player__hidden { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container { background-color: #ededed; color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding: 1rem; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .inline-audio-player__line { margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-media-button { height: 50px; margin-right: 1px; width: 50px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .copyright__text { color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center; } @media (max-width: 767px) { .copyright__text { margin-top: 12px; } } .content-embed { width: 100%; } .infographic-embed__frame { width: 100%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-video { height: 100%; position: relative; } .article-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-video__overlay { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; left: 50%; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); z-index: 1500; } .article-video__label { margin-bottom: 16px; } .article-video__image { bottom: 0; height: 100%; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__image--hide { opacity: 0; } .article-video__playercore { display: block; } .article-video__playercore--mobile { display: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__playercore--show { display: block; } .article-video--bordered { border-radius: 4px; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 180px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .hero-video__video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 80%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; width: 80%; z-index: 2; } .hero-video__video--desktop { left: 0; top: 65px; width: 71.5% !important; } .hero-video__video--mobile { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .hero-video__video--small-desktop { height: 70%; left: 0; top: 78px; width: 67%; } .hero-video--small-desktop, .hero-video--desktop { display: block; height: 720px; } .hero-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; -webkit-filter: brightness(40%); filter: brightness(40%); } @media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .hero-video img { opacity: 0.5; } } .hero-video--mobile { height: 280px; } .hero-video--medium-mobile { height: 430px; } .hero-video--tablet { height: 574px; } .hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video { margin-bottom: 10px; } .hero-video__play-button { position: absolute; z-index: 100; } .hero-video__video div div { position: inherit !important; position: unset !important; } .share-tools-popout { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 30px 0 20px; position: relative; width: 300px; } .share-tools-popout__text { color: #444; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 18px 18px; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .share-tools-popout__url-container { padding: 0 18px; width: 100%; } .share-tools-popout__articleurl { border: 1px solid #979797; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #a39f9f; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-top: 0; padding: 12px 10px; text-align: center; width: 262px; } .share-tools-popout__close { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: absolute; right: 8px; top: 20px; } .share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #888; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #000; font-size: 16px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .share-tools-popout__border-arrow { background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; border-bottom: 0; border-right: 0; height: 12px; left: 40px; position: absolute; top: -7px; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 12px; } .share-tools-popout__tools { margin-bottom: 13px; } .share-tools-popout__details { -ms-flex-item-align: normal; -ms-grid-row-align: normal; align-self: normal; color: #444; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; max-width: 180px; padding-left: 14px; } .share-tools-popout__copied, .share-tools-popout__copy { background-color: #000; border: unset; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding: 12px 6px; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; width: 110px; } .share-tools-popout__copy:hover { background-color: #555; } .share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes { color: #ff9700; margin-left: 8px; } .share-button-with-popout { position: relative; z-index: 9999; } .share-button-with-popout__popout { max-width: 330px; padding-right: 8px; position: absolute; top: 53px; width: 100%; } .share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop { width: auto; } .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-end__share-tools { margin-bottom: 0; } .article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 36px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 44px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-bottom: 50px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share { margin-top: 0; } .article-end__share { margin-top: 5px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-share-tools a, .article-share-tools button { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 52px; margin-right: 2px; width: 52px; } .article-share-tools--dark a, .article-share-tools--dark button { color: #444; height: 54px; width: 54px; } .article-share-tools--dark a svg, .article-share-tools--dark button svg { stroke: #444; } .article-share-tools a:hover, .article-share-tools button:hover { background-color: #fff; } .article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover { color: #3b5898; } .article-share-tools .email-icon:hover { color: #615f5d; } .article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover { color: #47c7fa; } .article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover { color: #0077b5; } .article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover { color: #25d366; } .article-share-tools .facebook-messenger { color: #0184ff; } .article-share-tools .ticked-icon { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; font-size: 11px; margin-right: 2px; padding: 3px; } .article-share-tools--popout > *, .article-share-tools--popout a { color: #020203; margin-bottom: 3px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .domestic-disclaimer { background-color: #333; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__content { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 990px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small { max-width: 976px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop { max-width: 1248px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 13px; line-height: 14px; margin: auto; padding: 8px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; padding: 16px 54px 16px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin-left: 0; max-width: 890px; padding: 14px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 16px 0 0; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop { font-size: 22px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-text__text { background-color: #fff; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); margin: 0 8px; opacity: 0.95; padding: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 3; } .section-header-text__text--no-margin { margin: 0; } .section-header-text__ad { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin: 0 8px 8px; position: relative; top: unset; } .section-header-text__ad--desktop { margin: 0 0 8px; } .section-header-text__title { display: inline-block; } .section-header-text__title--large-margin { margin: 0 40px 16px 0; } .section-header-text__title--premium { border: 1.78px solid; padding: 8px; } .section-header-text__title-content { color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; } .section-header-text__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; } .section-header-text__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .section-header-text__description { color: #555; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; } .section-header-text__description--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-unit { max-width: 1280px; position: relative; } .section-header-unit--tablet { height: 320px; } .section-header-unit--desktop { border-radius: 4px; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; } .section-header-unit__image { height: 320px; max-height: 320px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .section-header-unit__image img { left: 50%; position: relative; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .section-header-unit__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__content { position: relative; -webkit-transform: translateY(-50%); transform: translateY(-50%); } .section-header-unit__content--desktop { bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; max-width: 420px; position: absolute; right: 32px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .section-header-unit__content--advert { -webkit-transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); /* - half the height of the advert so the text is still centered. */ } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .label-list { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; position: relative; } .label-list__line { width: 100%; } .label-list__content { margin: 30px 0 0 16px; width: 100%; } .label-list__content--tablet { margin: 34px 0 0 38px; } .label-list__content--desktop { margin: 42px 0 0 32px; } .label-list__list-item { margin: 0; padding: 0; } .label-list__link { color: #444; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; text-decoration: none; } .label-list__link:hover { color: #adadad; } .label-list__link--large { font-size: 22px; line-height: 29px; } .label-list__link:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 8px; } .label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 12px; } .label-list__list-items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 36px; } .label-list__list-items--tablet { margin-top: 52px; } .label-list__list-items--desktop { margin-top: 46px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .offline-reading { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .offline-reading__header { font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 16px; max-width: 220px; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__header--desktop { font-size: 18px; max-width: 460px; } .offline-reading__buttons { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__buttons--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .offline-reading__top-stories { margin-bottom: 24px; } .offline-reading__top-stories--desktop { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .offline-reading__icon { display: block; height: auto; margin-bottom: 24px; width: 120px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-image { background-size: cover; height: 74px; max-width: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 132px; } .rectangle-image img { height: 100%; left: 50%; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: auto; } .rectangle-image--small { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 32px; width: 56px; } .rectangle-image--large { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 162px; width: 288px; } .rectangle-image--medium { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 126px; width: 222px; } .rectangle-image--full-screen { padding-top: 56.25%; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image img { -webkit-transition: all 0.4s ease; transition: all 0.4s ease; } .rectangle-image__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-image:hover img { height: 108%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 100%; width: 288px; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img { height: 108%; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container { position: relative; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item--tablet { width: 222px; } .rectangle-story-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1 auto; flex: 1 1 auto; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 3px; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; padding-bottom: 3px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__line { display: block; margin: 16px 0; } .rectangle-story-item__author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); display: block; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; bottom: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; height: 44px; line-height: 44px; position: absolute; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.4s ease; transition: 0.4s ease; width: 44px; } .rectangle-story-item__title--white, .rectangle-story-item__author--white, .rectangle-story-item__label--white { color: #fff; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover { border-bottom: 0; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #fff; } .rectangle-article-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-article-group--tablet, .rectangle-article-group--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .rectangle-article-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-top: 12px; } .rectangle-article-group__article--tablet { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .rectangle-article-group__article--desktop { padding: 0 24px 0 0; } .fake-ad { -ms-flex-line-pack: center; align-content: center; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #f6f6f6; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding: 8px; } .fake-ad__body { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #5ae9cb; color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 0 0 auto; flex: 0 0 auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .fake-ad__text { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; color: #444; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.5; text-align: right; text-transform: uppercase; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body { height: 320px; width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text { width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 50px; width: 300px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 300px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 90px; width: 728px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 728px; } .body-text-card-inline-image { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .body-text-card { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5; } .body-text-card__image, .body-text-card__video { margin: 24px 0; } .body-text-card__text { display: block; } .body-text-card__advert { margin: 20px 0; } .body-text-card__text div a { cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .body-text-card__text a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } .body-text-card__text > div > p { margin: 0 20px 16px; } .body-text-card__text > div > p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; padding-bottom: 0; } .body-text-card__drop-capped { float: left; margin: 0 8px 0 20px; padding-top: 6px; } .body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter { color: transparent; font-size: 0; } .body-text-card__text--flush-text > div > p { margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0; } .body-text-card__text--future div a:visited { color: #666; } .body-text-card__text--future div a { color: #002856; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #002856; text-decoration-color: #002856; } .body-text-card__text--travel div a { color: #589e50; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #589e50; text-decoration-color: #589e50; } .body-text-card__text--worklife div a { color: #0052a1; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0052a1; text-decoration-color: #0052a1; } .body-text-card__text--earth div a { color: #0fbb56; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; } .body-text-card__text--culture div a { color: #472479; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #472479; text-decoration-color: #472479; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .branding { -webkit-box-sizing: content-box !important; box-sizing: content-box !important; display: inline-block; height: 24px; padding: 12px 16px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon { display: inline-block; height: 24px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon g { fill: #fff; } .branding--medium { padding: 16px; } .branding--large { padding: 16px 24px; } .branding--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .branding--future { background-color: #002856; } .branding--culture { background-color: #472479; } .branding--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .branding--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .branding--travel svg, .branding--earth svg, .branding--culture svg, .branding--future svg, .branding--worklife svg { height: 24px; } .branding--small, .branding--small svg { height: 17px; } .branding__icon--medium, .branding--medium, .branding--medium svg { height: 22px; } .branding__icon--large, .branding--large, .branding--large svg { height: 24px; } .branding__icon--largest, .branding--largest, .branding--largest svg { height: 32px; } .branding__icon--small, .branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--future .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg { height: 17px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .swimlane-inner { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: auto 100%; display: block; padding: 24px 16px; } .swimlane-inner--small { padding: 24px 8px; } .swimlane-inner--tablet { padding: 28px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--small-desktop { padding: 30px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--desktop { padding: 38px 16px 42px; } .swimlane { overflow: hidden; position: relative; z-index: 0; } .swimlane__black { background-color: #0e0e0e; } .swimlane__background-image { height: 500px; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 915px; z-index: -1; } .swimlane__background-image--mobile { height: 181px; width: 320px; } .swimlane__background-image--tablet { height: 421px; width: 752px; } .swimlane__background-image--desktop { height: 500px; width: 915px; } .swimlane__background-image--atb { background-color: rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.8); background-size: cover; height: 100%; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item { margin: 0 0 25px; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item--desktop { margin: 0; } .swimlane__item--tablet { margin: 0 16px 25px 0; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 3); } .swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n + 3) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__item--two-columns { margin-right: 0 !important; max-width: 572px; width: 50%; } .swimlane__item--four-columns { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 25px; margin-right: 16px; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 4); } .swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n + 4) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 24px; text-align: left; } .swimlane__items--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-top: 42px; } .swimlane__items--small-desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--tablet { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--no-title { margin-top: 0; } .swimlane__content { margin: auto; max-width: 942px; text-align: center; } .swimlane__content--desktop { max-width: 1216px; } .swimlane__title { color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .swimlane__title--black { color: #010101; font-weight: 400; } .see-more-button-container-alt { color: #0e0e0e; } .follow-us-on { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .follow-us-on__text { color: #fff; font-size: 16px; font-style: condensed; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .follow-us-on__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .follow-us-on__link:first-child { margin-right: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-bar { background-color: #fff; } .nav-bar__hidden-menu { display: none; } .nav-bar__visible-menu { display: block; } .nav-bar__no-scroll { max-height: 100vh; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .dot-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .dot-with-label__text { padding-left: 8px; } .dot-with-label__text a { text-decoration: none; } .dot-with-label__text:hover h2 { color: #adadad; } .sponsor-section { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; max-width: 530px; } .sponsor-section--menu { padding: 20px 0 16px 24px; } .sponsor-section__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; } .sponsor-section__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .sponsor-section__sponsor { color: #fff; padding-right: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 26px; margin: 0; white-space: nowrap; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile { padding-bottom: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop { font-size: 22px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu { color: #fff; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop { font-size: 32px; } .sponsor-section__summary { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-top: 16px; } .sponsor-section__advert { display: inline-block; } .icon-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .icon-with-label__icon { padding-right: 10px; } .full-width-image-article { width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__container { min-height: 325px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .full-width-image-article__container--desktop { min-height: 400px; } .full-width-image-article__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #fff; left: 50%; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label { display: inline-block; font-size: 14.4px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 11px; text-transform: uppercase; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop { font-size: 33.6px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author { font-size: 16.6px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.13px; line-height: 42px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 28px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop { margin-top: 32px; } .full-width-image-article__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__link { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .more-articles { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: cover; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-transition: background-image 0.4s; transition: background-image 0.4s; } .more-articles__heading { display: inline-block; margin: auto; max-width: 1272px; padding: 20px 0 0 16px; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__stories { margin: 10px 16px 42px; max-width: 1232px; padding: 8px; position: relative; z-index: 4; } .more-articles__stories--small { padding: 0; } .more-articles__stories--tablet { margin: 24px 16px 72px; max-width: 1216px; } .more-articles__stories--desktop { margin: 56px 48px 92px; max-width: 1152px; } .more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 16px; } .more-articles__line { opacity: 0.3; padding-top: 16px; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__image-overlay { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.3); bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; z-index: 1; } .more-articles__image { opacity: 0; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .more-articles__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .more-articles__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--visible { opacity: 1; } .more-articles__story--two-columns, .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 16px; width: 310px; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n + 3) .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns, .more-articles__stories--three-columns { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; padding: 16px; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link, .more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link { pointer-events: all; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50%; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 33%; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n + 3) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__heading--small { padding: 20px 0 0 8px; } .more-articles__heading--desktop { max-width: 1264px; padding: 38px 0 0 16px; } .more-articles__heading--tablet { max-width: 1264px; padding: 24px 0 0 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .more-articles-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles-item__link { text-decoration: none; } .more-articles-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; width: 100%; } .more-articles-item__label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 8px; } .more-articles-item__type { margin-right: 16px; position: relative; } .more-articles-item__icon { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; margin-right: 8px; } .more-articles-item__text { color: #fff; font-size: 20px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; padding: 0; position: relative; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .more-articles-item__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .more-articles-item__text--large { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 30px; line-height: 37px; } .more-articles-item__container--column { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .more-articles-item__image-container { position: relative; } .more-articles-item--two-columns { margin-right: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--desktop { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--tablet { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text { color: #adadad; } .most-popular { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .most-popular__inner { margin: 0 auto; max-width: 894px; padding: 45px 24px 21px; } .most-popular__inner--desktop { padding: 47px 0 86px; } .most-popular__header { color: #010101; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular__items { display: block; } .most-popular__items--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 57px; } .most-popular-item { box-sizing: border-box; padding-top: 33px; } .most-popular-item:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 42px; } .most-popular-item--desktop { padding: 0 20px; width: calc(33.333%); } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 2) { -ms-flex-order: 2; order: 2; padding: 38px 20px; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 3) { -ms-flex-order: 3; order: 3; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4) { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; } .most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 0; } .most-popular-item a { text-decoration: none; } .most-popular-item__content { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 5px; } .most-popular-item__number { color: #cbcbcb; font-size: 40px; font-style: italic; font-weight: bold; line-height: 32px; margin: 0 20px 0 0; width: 25px; } .most-popular-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 0 45px; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular-item__title { color: #2e2e2ecc; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.17px; line-height: 22px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; } .most-popular-item__title--desktop { font-size: 16px; } .StickyElementContent { -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s, -webkit-transform 0.5s; } .StickyElementContent--is-undocked { left: 0; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100%; } .StickyElementContent--is-hidden { -webkit-transform: translateY(-100%); transform: translateY(-100%); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-page-header { position: relative; } .error-page-header__headers { margin-bottom: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page-header__description { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 20px; } .error-page-header__play-icon { margin-right: 16px; } .error-page-header__play-icon button { color: #adadad; } .error-page-header__dot-label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .styled-list__item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 8px; } .styled-list__item a { font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .styled-list__item--worklife a { color: #8beed9; } .styled-list__item--future a { color: #ffc857; } .styled-list__item--culture a { color: #472479; } .styled-list__item--earth a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__item--travel a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__text { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-left: 20px; } .styled-list__dot { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 8px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .image-gallery-item { margin: 26px 0; } .image-gallery-item img { height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -3%; width: 106%; } @media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -16%; width: 116%; } } @media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -8%; width: 108%; } } @media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -42%; width: 142%; } } @media (min-width: 1366px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -55%; width: 155%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin: 20px 0; width: 100%; } @media (max-width: 599px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin-left: -3%; width: 106%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { max-height: 507px; min-height: 463px; } @media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { min-height: 818px; } } .error-page { position: relative; } .error-page__container { margin-bottom: 16px; } .error-page__container--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page__title { margin-bottom: 12px; } .error-page__title--desktop { margin-bottom: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-labels { font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-labels a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 1px; text-decoration: none; } .article-labels__text:first-child { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin: auto; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet { -ms-flex-pack: unset; justify-content: unset; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen { display: block; } .rectangle-story-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-left: 18px; padding-top: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--tablet { padding-left: 20px; padding-top: 22px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop { padding-left: 22px; padding-top: 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type { padding-left: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; width: 50%; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen { display: block; padding: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type { padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop { padding-left: 10px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type { padding-right: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__articles-container { margin: auto; max-width: 950px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 16px 16px 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; display: block; padding: 0 0 0 16px; padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop { display: block; padding: 0 0 0 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-title-card-rectangle { width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { opacity: 1; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease, -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; width: 100%; will-change: transform; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .article-title-card-rectangle__image { margin-right: 40px; max-height: 390px; max-width: 620px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: auto; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image img { display: block; min-height: 194px; min-width: 344px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop { margin-right: 0; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img { width: 110%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article { margin-right: 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--index { margin-right: 0; max-width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article { margin-right: 8px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--index { -ms-flex-align: initial; align-items: initial; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box { background-color: #fff; margin-left: 40px; padding: 16px 22px 0; position: relative; top: -22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index { color: #000; font-size: 20px; font-weight: 300; letter-spacing: -0.53px; line-height: 30px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet { font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.74px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header { color: #2e2e2e; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 30px; margin-top: 12px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet { font-size: 26px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index { color: #3d3d3d; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; margin-top: 4px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 8px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet { margin: 14px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { left: -40px; margin: 0; padding: 40px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet { padding: 35px 22px 22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index { left: 0; margin-right: 40px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet { margin-left: 50px; margin-right: 50px; padding: 30px 36px 0; top: -80px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop { margin-left: 50px; max-width: 560px; top: -88px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__link { color: #000; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container { display: block; max-width: 252px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop { max-width: 320px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container { color: #4d4d4d; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text { display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin-top: 27px; max-width: 396px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__read-more { display: inline-block; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 4px; margin: 25px 16px 0 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-title-card-rectangle__arrow { color: #bababa; display: inline-block; -webkit-transform: rotate(-90deg); transform: rotate(-90deg); } .article-headline { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 43px 0; } .article-headline .article-labels { text-align: center; } .article-headline__line--short { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--tablet { padding: 31px 0; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; margin: 0 15px 23px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile { padding: 20px 0; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.63px; margin: 0 15px 15px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline__collection a { color: #242424; } .article-headline__text { font-size: 45px; letter-spacing: -1.26px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 44px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .loading-spinner { margin: 0 auto; text-align: center; } .loading-spinner__message { color: #002756; display: block; font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: bold; margin: 12px 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .loading-spinner__image { display: block; margin: 0 auto; width: 48px; } @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 900px; position: relative; } .hero-image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 0; overflow: hidden; padding-top: 56.25%; position: relative; } .hero-image img { height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-hero { height: 672px; margin: 0; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 100%; } .article-hero--small-mobile { height: 373px; } .article-hero--mobile { height: 486px; } .article-hero--small-tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 15px 0; } .article-hero__content { margin: auto; max-width: 1004px; pointer-events: none; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .article-hero--desktop { height: 573px; } .article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content { padding: 50px 30px 0; } .article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content { max-width: 1276px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 10px 0; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title { font-size: 24px; line-height: 30px; max-width: 220px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line { margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 16px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta { line-height: 22px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a { letter-spacing: 3px; } .article-hero__ambient-hidden { display: none; } .article-hero__background-ambient { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; z-index: -1; } .article-hero__background::after { background-image: linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 0%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.06) 24%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2) 51%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.32) 67%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.51) 100%); content: ''; height: 100%; left: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background--parallax img { -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); transform: scale(1.1); } .article-hero a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 3px; text-decoration: none; } .article-hero__content-cta { clear: both; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 4px; line-height: 20px; max-width: 170px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 2px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5); text-transform: uppercase; } .article-hero__content-cta a { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; letter-spacing: 4px; } .article-hero__content-labels { font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 20px; pointer-events: all; } .article-hero__content-line { background-color: #fff; border: 0; display: block; float: left; height: 1px; margin-bottom: 18px; margin-right: 300px; margin-top: 25px; width: 120px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow { position: relative; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::before { background: #fff; content: ''; height: 2px; left: 5px; margin-top: -1px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease; transition: all 0.3s ease; width: 20px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::after { border-right: 2px solid #fff; border-top: 2px solid #fff; content: ''; display: inline-block; height: 10px; left: 16px; margin-top: 5px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 10px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before { opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after { margin-top: 6px; opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow img { height: 11px; margin-left: 10px; width: 19px; } .article-hero__content-title { color: #fff; font-size: 50px; line-height: 54px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 450px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.7); } .article-hero__content-title a { letter-spacing: -1.32px; } .article-hero__title-text { display: inline; } .article-hero__content-title > a:hover > div, .article-hero__content-subtitle > a:hover { background-image: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, color-stop(100%, currentColor), color-stop(0%, transparent)); background-image: linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%); background-position: 0 1.15em; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 2px; } .article-hero__content-subtitle { clear: both; color: #fff; font-size: 23px; font-weight: 500; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 440px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.5); } .article-hero__content-subtitle a { letter-spacing: -1px; } .article-hero__content-title--small { font-size: 30px; line-height: 35px; } .article-hero__content-title--tablet { clear: both; font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 42px; max-width: 264px; } .article-hero__content-title--small a { letter-spacing: -0.63px; } .article-hero__down-arrow { background-color: transparent; border: 0; bottom: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; left: calc(50% - 29px); margin: 0; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 0; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: scale(0.5); transform: scale(0.5); } .see-more-button-container { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable */ @media screen and (min-width: 1000px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 900px; } } @media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 600px; } } @media screen and (max-width: 600px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 300px; } } .related-articles { position: relative; } .related-articles__header { text-align: center; background-color: #000; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 8px; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-articles__header--bright { margin: 20px 0 1.15ex; font-size: 13px; background-color: #d8d8d8; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.7); letter-spacing: 2px; line-height: 3; } .related-articles__list { list-style: none; padding: 0 0 1.5ex 0; margin: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; /* .with-numbers */ } .related-articles__list li { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; -ms-flex-line-pack: stretch; align-content: stretch; } .related-articles__list li > div { -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers { counter-reset: related-numbers; list-style-image: url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7); margin: 0 35px; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before { counter-increment: related-numbers; content: counter(related-numbers); font-weight: bold; font-size: 40px; -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; line-height: 1.85; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.18); -ms-flex: 0.1 0.1; flex: 0.1 0.1; -ms-flex-preferred-size: 1ex; flex-basis: 1ex; padding-right: 1ex; text-align: center; display: block; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li { margin-bottom: 10px; } .related-articles--wide-layout { background-color: initial; margin-top: 20px; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li { max-width: 100%; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type) { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li { max-width: 49.8%; } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } .related-article { -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 16px; min-height: 90px; } .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); -ms-flex: 0.3 0.3; flex: 0.3 0.3; min-width: 90px; max-width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); margin: 0; display: block; line-height: 0; -ms-flex-order: -1; order: -1; } .related-article__image img { width: 100%; border: 0; margin: 0 12px 0 0; } .related-article__text { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column nowrap; flex-flow: column nowrap; width: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-line-pack: start; align-content: flex-start; position: relative; padding: 12px 6px 12px 0; line-height: 1.5; } .related-article__text a { width: 100%; padding-left: 12px; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; text-decoration: none; } .related-article__text a + a { margin-top: 1ex; } .related-article__text br { display: none; } .related-article__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); letter-spacing: -0.01em; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-article__title:hover { color: #2e2e2e; } .related-article__collection { display: block; color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.5px; line-height: 1.2; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-article__collection span { display: none; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article { margin: 0.75ex 0; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images a:hover { color: #000; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title { padding-left: 10px; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 15px); max-width: calc(90px + 15px); margin: 0; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img { border-radius: 50%; } .related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.75ex 1.75ex; } .vertical-story-card-item { cursor: pointer; font-family: 'ReithSans'; height: 456px; margin: 20px 10px; position: relative; width: 297px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } .vertical-story-card-item img { width: 100%; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { background-color: #fff; bottom: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 111px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: absolute; right: 0; width: 275px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { width: 261px; } } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1 { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 0.75rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; text-transform: uppercase; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2 { color: #3d3d3d; font-size: 1.3125rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.06px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button__inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: linear 0.6s; transition: linear 0.6s; } .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; -webkit-transition: linear 0.3s; transition: linear 0.3s; } .see-more-button__inner-text { margin-right: 24px; } .see-more-button__inner:hover { color: #4a4a4a; } .see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #4a4a4a; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .vertical-story-group { font-family: 'ReithSans'; position: relative; } .vertical-story-group img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container { height: 370px; position: relative; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container img { height: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-mask { background: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, from(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6)), to(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0))); background: linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6), rgba(0, 0, 0, 0)); bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container { top: 120px; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-bottom: 20px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 0; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 65px; width: 70%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { margin-top: 50px; } } .vertical-story-group__container { display: -ms-grid; display: grid; grid-auto-rows: minmax(auto, auto); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px)); height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; justify-items: center; margin-top: -210px; width: 100%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__container { margin-top: -120px; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .mapContainer .mapTitle { background: transparent; color: #fff; display: block; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 1.1875em; margin-top: 2%; min-width: 25%; padding: 2%; padding-bottom: 0.375em; padding-left: 8px; padding-right: 16px; padding-top: 0.375em; position: relative; text-align: center; z-index: 100; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapTitle { font-size: 2.4em; } } .mapContainer .styled-line { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } .mapContainer button { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.9); border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 60px; outline: none; padding: 2px; width: 60px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { color: #589e50; font-size: 2.5em; vertical-align: middle; } .mapContainer button:hover { background-color: #f2f2f2; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer button { height: 50px; width: 50px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { font-size: 2em; } } .mapContainer .navigationPanel { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; max-width: 1200px; padding: 10px; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, 0); transform: translate(-50%, 0); width: 100%; } .mapContainer .zoomControls { background-color: #fff; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; cursor: default; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; max-width: 300px; padding: 0 !important; text-align: left; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 300px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { max-width: 190px; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 190px; } } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { display: none !important; } .mapContainer .map-marker svg { -webkit-transition: all 0.1s ease-out; transition: all 0.1s ease-out; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(0.75); transform: scale(0.75); } } .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { -webkit-transform: scale(1.3); transform: scale(1.3); } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); } } .mapContainer__articleInfo { padding: 0 18px; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin: 0.725em 0; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); text-decoration: none; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 1.7em; } } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 1.45em 0; text-decoration: none; } .location-header { font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .temperature-switcher { background: transparent; border: 0; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; font-weight: 300; white-space: nowrap; } .temperature-switcher:active { color: currentColor; } .temperature-switcher__active { font-weight: bold; } .temperature-switcher span { margin: 0 0.2ex; } .day { --w-day-font-size: 14px; --w-day-temp-font-size: 20px; --w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: 600; --w-day-name-font-weight: 500; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #959595; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: var(--w-day-font-size); } .day--desktop { --w-day-temp-font-size: 24px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: normal; --w-day-name-font-weight: 600; } .day:first-of-type { color: #4b4b4b; } .day__name { font-weight: var(--w-day-name-font-weight); line-height: 1; margin-bottom: 0.75em; text-transform: uppercase; } .day__symbol-header { display: block; height: 80px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 98px; } .day__symbol { display: block; height: 40px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 50px; } .day--desktop .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-top: 15px; width: 70px; } .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size); font-weight: var(--w-day-temp-font-weight); line-height: 1.2; margin-top: 0.75em; text-transform: lowercase; } .day__temp--header { color: #4b4b4b; font-size: 32px; font-weight: bold; } .day--mobile:first-of-type { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 3em; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-right: 10px; overflow: visible; width: 80px; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big); font-weight: bold; margin-top: 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location { font-size: 120%; font-weight: 500; margin: 1em 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { color: #959595; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location, .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { text-align: center; width: 100%; } .weather { --w-height: 50px; --w-wrapper-margin: 24px; --w-days-flexbasis: 33%; margin-bottom: 2rem; } .weather--desktop { --w-height: 80px; --w-wrapper-margin: 50px; --w-days-flexbasis: initial; margin-bottom: 1rem; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days { -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; width: auto; } .weather__separator { border-right: 1px solid #dcdcdc; display: block; height: var(--w-height); } .weather__days { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-preferred-size: var(--w-days-flexbasis); flex-basis: var(--w-days-flexbasis); -ms-flex-pack: space-evenly; justify-content: space-evenly; margin-top: 2.5rem; } .weather__days--desktop { margin-top: 4rem; } .weather__header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column; flex-flow: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: var(--w-wrapper-margin); } .weather__header button { margin-top: 1.5rem; } .weather__header--desktop { /* position the temperature switcher on desktop */ position: relative; } .weather__header--desktop button { margin: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .beta-btn { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; line-height: 12px; padding: 0 7px; width: 66px; } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow { cursor: pointer; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(-35deg); transform: rotate(-35deg); } .beta-btn__copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin: 16px auto; max-width: 50%; } .beta-btn__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .image-card { position: relative; } .image-card img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-card__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .image-card__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .image-card__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 90%; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } .destination-header { width: 100%; } .destination-header__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 380px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0 16px; position: relative; } .destination-header__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .destination-header__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text { color: #fff; font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.95px; line-height: 37.4px; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text a { color: #fff; font-weight: 300; text-decoration: none; } .destination-header__text--desktop { font-size: 36px; } .destination-header__text-container { border-bottom: solid 1px #fff; display: inline-block; line-height: 1.3; padding-bottom: 17px; } .destination-header__text-container--desktop { padding-bottom: 0.75ex; } .destination-header__link-page, .destination-header__advert { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.5px; margin-top: 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; } .destination-header__link-page span, .destination-header__advert span { display: block; width: 100%; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop, .destination-header__advert--desktop { margin-top: 40px; } .destination-header__link-page { left: 14px; margin: 0; position: absolute; text-transform: uppercase; top: 20px; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop { left: 25px; top: 36px; } .destination-header__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .destination-header a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .filter { display: inline-block; max-width: 160px; position: relative; } .filter__button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 16px; padding: 16px; width: 160px; } .filter__content { background-color: #000; display: none; position: absolute; width: 160px; z-index: 1; } .filter:focus .filter__content, .filter:hover .filter__content { display: block; } .filter__content--open { display: block; } .filter__content button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-style: italic; padding: 12px 16px; text-decoration: none; width: 100%; } .filter__content button:hover { background-color: #494848; } .callout-box-card { background-color: #eaeaea; color: #4a4a4a; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left; } .callout-box-card img { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .callout-box-card__container { padding: 0.2rem 1.5rem; } .callout-box-card__container h3 { font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin: 1rem 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .callout-box-card__container h4 { font-size: 28px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 35px; } .callout-box-card__container .body { font-size: 16px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; } .callout-box-card__container .body a { color: #4a4a4a; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button-inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; } .see-more-button-inner--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__text { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .load-more-button { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { margin-right: 16px; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .load-more-button__downarrow { color: #adadad; font-size: 22px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { -webkit-animation: spin 2s linear infinite; animation: spin 2s linear infinite; } .load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type { padding-right: 16px; } .load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type) { padding-left: 16px; } @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .basic-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #adadad; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); color: #193e6d; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; height: 54px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-width: 222px; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button__text { color: #444; font-family: 'BBC Reith Sans Cd'; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button__text--white { color: #fff; } .basic-button__text--curious { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } .basic-button__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button__text--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button::before { padding-right: 16px; } .basic-button:hover { background-color: #dedede; } .basic-button--background-light-blue:hover { background-color: #dfe8ff; } .basic-button--background-worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--background-future { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-culture { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--background-travel { background-color: #589e50; } .basic-button--background-worklife:hover { background-color: #4494e4; } .basic-button--background-future:hover { background-color: #ffc857; } .basic-button--background-culture:hover { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-travel:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--bold { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .read-more-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-weight: bold; position: relative; width: 224px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .AdFrame { display: -ms-inline-flexbox; display: inline-flex; } .AdFrame--default { background-color: #f6f6f6; } .AdFrame--dark-grey { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); } .AdFrame--centre-aligned { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-with-styled-background { height: inherit; position: relative; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background--collection { display: inline-block; width: unset; } .text-with-styled-background--center-align { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .text-with-styled-background__text { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #444; display: block; font-size: 20px; line-height: 24px; padding: 0 0 0 10px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__text--large { font-size: 26px; line-height: 30px; padding: 0 0 0 24px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding { padding: 0; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__text--largest { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--future { color: #002856; } .text-with-styled-background__text--culture { color: #472479; } .text-with-styled-background__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .text-with-styled-background__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .text-with-styled-background__text--blue { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; padding: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium { font-size: 32px; line-height: 38px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container { bottom: 0; margin-left: 13px; position: absolute; width: calc(100% - 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.05); height: 26px; max-width: 240px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__line--large { bottom: -10px; height: 42px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--narrow { height: 26px; max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line--medium { bottom: -10px; height: 36px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--largest { max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection { width: calc(100% + 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin { margin: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__line--collection { height: 26px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .previous-media-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .previous-media-button__icon--white svg { fill: #fff; } .previous-media-button span { height: 18px; width: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-header { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-header--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-header--simple { font-size: 18px; line-height: 22px; } .simple-header--small { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--smallest { font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; } .simple-header--medium { font-size: 24px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--regular { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold { font-stretch: condensed; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large { line-height: 37px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular { line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--white { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .play-button__inline-audio, .play-button__inline-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 49px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 49px; } .play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play { color: #ececec; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; } .play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play { color: #8beed9; } .play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play { color: #ffc857; } .play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play { color: #472479; } .play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-video:hover { background-color: #ececec; } .play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play { color: #000; } .play-button__inline-audio { color: #fff; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; padding: 0; width: 50px; } .play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); border: 2px solid #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 80px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 80px; } .play-button:hover { color: #5ae9cb; } .play-button--white { border: 4px solid #fff; } .play-button--white:hover { color: #fff; } .play-button--white .gelicon--play { color: inherit; } .play-button--worklife { border: 2px solid #8beed9; } .play-button--worklife:hover { color: #8beed9; } .play-button--travel { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--travel:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--future { border: 2px solid #ffc857; } .play-button--future:hover { color: #ffc857; } .play-button--culture { border: 2px solid #472479; } .play-button--culture:hover { color: #472479; } .play-button--earth { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--earth:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--desktop { font-size: 30px; height: 76px; width: 76px; } .play-button--background-hover:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .error-button .gelicon--alert { color: #ececec; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-p-tag { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-p-tag--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-p-tag--medium { font-size: 27px; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; } .simple-p-tag--quote { color: #575757; } .simple-header--serif-light-italic { font-style: italic; line-height: inherit; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-summary__text { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--blue { color: #193e6d; } .text-summary__text--black { color: #000; } .text-summary__text--grey { color: #6a6a6a; } .text-summary__text--dark-grey { color: #444; } .text-summary__text--left { text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--right { text-align: right; } .screen-reader-only { border: 0; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); -webkit-clip-path: inset(50%); clip-path: inset(50%); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0; position: absolute !important; width: 1px; word-wrap: normal !important; } .inline-html { display: block; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .drop-capped { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; border: 2px solid #444; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; float: left; font-size: 58px; font-weight: bold; height: 84px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin: 8px 10px 4px 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: 84px; } .drop-capped--worklife { border-color: #8beed9; } .drop-capped--future { border-color: #ffc857; } .drop-capped--culture { border-color: #444; } .drop-capped--earth { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--travel { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--desktop { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav__icon { color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon { color: #cecece; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .close-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-label { color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .nav-label:hover { color: #8e8e8e; } .nav-label--menu { color: #ebebeb; } .nav-label--menu:hover { color: #cecece; } .nav-label--white { color: #fff; } .nav-label--curiousSans { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-links__link { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding-right: 24px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-links__link--active p { border-bottom: 2px solid #002856; font-weight: bold; } .nav-links__link--active--menu p { border-bottom: unset; } .nav-links__link--active--worklife p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0052a1; } .nav-links__link--active--culture p { border-bottom: 2px solid #472479; } .nav-links__link--active--earth p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0fbb56; } .nav-links__link--active--travel p { border-bottom: 2px solid #589e50; } .nav-links__icon { background-color: #0052a1; bottom: 10px; height: 2px; position: absolute; width: 80px; } .nav-links__link--menu { display: block; padding-right: unset; } .nav-links__icon--menu { display: none; } .nav-links__icon--menu-tablet { width: 60px; } .nav-links__icon--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-links__icon--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-links__icon--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-links__icon--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-links__icon--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-links__link--menu p { font-size: 26px; padding: 0 0 32px 24px; } .nav-links__link--menu-desktop p { font-size: 32px; line-height: 42px; padding: 0 0 44px 100px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .burger-nav { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #0052a1; cursor: pointer; font-size: 20px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .burger-nav--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .burger-nav--future { color: #002856; } .burger-nav--culture { color: #472479; } .burger-nav--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .burger-nav--travel { color: #589e50; } .burger-nav--medium { font-size: 16px; } .burger-nav--small { font-size: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-menu { background-color: #0052a1; display: block; height: 100%; left: 0; min-height: 100vh; opacity: 0.98; overflow: auto; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100vw; } .nav-menu--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-menu--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-menu--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-menu--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-menu--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-menu__close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; padding: 16px 8px 60px; } .nav-menu__close-nav--desktop { padding: 20px 16px 70px; } .nav-menu__sponsored { background-color: rgba(34, 34, 34, 0.5); height: 100%; margin-bottom: 32px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop { margin-bottom: 44px; } .nav-menu__sponsored-container { padding: 20px 16px 16px 24px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container { margin: auto; max-width: 1264px; padding: 20px 16px 20px 100px; } .nav-menu__follow-us { padding: 52px 0 34px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .ad-slot { display: inline-block; } .ad-slot__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .ad-slot__label { max-width: 120px; min-width: 112px; padding-right: 8px; text-align: right; } .ad-slot--leaderboard { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .ad-slot__label--mpu, .ad-slot__label--leaderboard { margin-bottom: 8px; max-width: unset; padding-right: unset; text-align: right; } .ad-slot__container--mpu, .ad-slot__container--leaderboard { display: inline-block; -ms-flex-wrap: unset; flex-wrap: unset; } .ad-slot__fake--sponsor { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 31px; min-width: 88px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 250px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 600px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 90px; min-width: 728px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 320px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__label--dark { color: #dcdcdc; } .ad-slot--dark { background-color: #f6f6f6; padding: 8px; } .ad-slot--black { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); padding: 8px; } .open-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; padding: 0; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .open-nav__icon { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .open-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } .play-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .play-icon--red { color: #f00; } .play-icon--grey { color: #999; } .play-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .play-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } .camera-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .camera-icon--red { color: #f00; } .camera-icon--grey { color: #999; } .camera-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .camera-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-build-bar { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: auto; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; width: 100%; } .nav-build-bar--mobile { height: auto; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content { white-space: pre-wrap; } .nav-build-bar--tablet { height: 58px; } .nav-build-bar--desktop { height: 60px; } .nav-build-bar__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin-left: auto; overflow: hidden; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-left: 8px; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand { margin-left: 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 8px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--tablet { padding: 0 30px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--desktop { padding: 0 80px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__title-content { border: 1.78px solid; color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; padding: 8px; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 48px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav-button { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-left: 8px; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored { background-color: #f6f6f6; border: 1px solid #d3d3d3; height: 48px; padding: 0 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop { padding-right: 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile { -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; max-width: 100px; width: 100%; } .info-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .info-icon--red { color: #f00; } .info-icon--grey { color: #999; } .info-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .info-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-dot { background-color: #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; height: 6px; width: 6px; } .styled-dot--no-cursor { cursor: unset; } .styled-dot--medium { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 10px; width: 10px; } .styled-dot--dark-blue { background-color: #193e6d; } .styled-dot--purple { background-color: #362e67; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--black { background-color: #000; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--grey-green { background-color: #008e9b; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--dark-green { background-color: #589e50; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--worklife { background-color: #8beed9; } .styled-dot--future { background-color: #ffc857; } .styled-dot--culture { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--travel { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--worklife-prime { background-color: #0052a1; } .styled-dot--future-prime { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--culture-prime { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth-prime { background-color: #0fbb56; } .styled-dot--travel-prime { background-color: #589e50; } .styled-dot--large { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); height: 16px; width: 16px; } .styled-dot--small { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 8px; width: 8px; } .styled-dot--grey { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .email-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 11px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .email-icon:hover { background-color: #000; } .email-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .facebook-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 15px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .facebook-icon:hover { background-color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #3b5998; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue:hover { background-color: #3b5998; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #fff; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white:hover { background-color: #fff; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--small { font-size: 20px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .hero-header__header { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #fff; font-size: 38px; line-height: 40px; margin: 0; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); } .hero-header__header--large { font-size: 44px; line-height: 48px; } .hero-header__header--medium { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .hero-header__header--small { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .hero-header__header--black { color: #000; text-shadow: unset; } .hero-header__header--grey { color: #adadad; text-shadow: unset; } .ticked-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #13de99; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .ticked-icon--small { font-size: 12px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .google-plus-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .google-plus-icon:hover { background-color: #d34836; } .google-plus-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .reddit-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .reddit-icon:hover { background-color: #ff4500; } .reddit-icon__hide { display: none; } .reddit-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .linkedin-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .linkedin-icon:hover { background-color: #0077b5; } .linkedin-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } .share-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; color: #444; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; letter-spacing: 3px; padding: 18px 16px; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; width: 110px; z-index: 55; } .share-button .gelicon--share { margin-right: 10px; -webkit-transition: 0.3s ease-in; transition: 0.3s ease-in; } .share-button:hover .gelicon--share, .share-button .gelicon--share-sharing { -webkit-transform: rotate(-180deg); transform: rotate(-180deg); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .whatsapp-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .whatsapp-icon:hover { background-color: #25d366; } .whatsapp-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .twitter-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .twitter-icon:hover { background-color: #1da1f2; } .twitter-icon--light-blue { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #1da1f2; color: #1da1f2; } .twitter-icon--light-blue:hover { background-color: #1da1f2; color: #fff; } .twitter-icon--white { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #fff; color: #fff; } .twitter-icon--white:hover { background-color: #fff; color: #1da1f2; } .twitter-icon--small { font-size: 18px; height: 38px; width: 38px; }/* stylelint-disable */ html, body { margin: 0; padding: 0; } #root *, #root *::before, #root *::after { box-sizing: border-box; } #root article, #root aside, #root figure, #root footer, #root header, #root nav, #root section { display: block; } body { background: #fff; } .app__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; min-height: 100vh; overflow: visible; position: relative; } .app__domestic-disclaimer { bottom: 0; position: fixed; width: 100%; z-index: 5000; } .main { display: flex; flex: 1 0 auto; flex-direction: column; } .navigation { background-color: #fff; display: none; margin: auto; max-width: 1248px; padding: 4px 16px 0; position: relative; z-index: 1000; } @media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px) { .navigation { max-width: 976px; } } @media (min-width: 600px) { .navigation { padding: 0 16px 1px; } } @media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px) { .navigation { max-width: 990px; } } @media (min-width: 300px) and (max-width: 399px) { .navigation { padding: 4px 8px; } } .navigation--display { display: block; } .navigation-sticky--undocked { background-color: #fff; width: 100%; z-index: 10000; } .StickyElement { position: relative; z-index: 1501; } .loader { display: none; height: 100%; left: -99999px; opacity: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; transition: 0.2s opacity; width: 100%; z-index: 1000; } .loader--is-active { background: white; display: block; left: 0; opacity: 1; } .loader__body { display: none; left: 50%; position: fixed; top: 50%; transform: translateX(-50%) translateY(-50%); } .loader__body--show-loader { display: block; } .no-js .loader { display: none; } .vertical-index { display: flex; flex: 1 0 auto; flex-direction: column; } .vertical-index__collection-swimlane { min-height: 400px; } .vertical-index .article-hero__content { margin-top: 106px; padding-left: 25px; } .vertical-index__full-width-ad { background-color: #f1f1f1; padding: 25px; } .vertical-index__latest-articles { margin-top: 35px; } .vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile { margin-top: 28px; } .vertical-index__storyworks-section { margin: auto; max-width: 1248px; padding: 16px 0 0; } @media (min-width: 1008px) { .vertical-index__storyworks-section { padding: 16px 16px 0; } } @media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-index__storyworks-section { margin: auto; max-width: 990px; padding: 8px 16px 0; } } @media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px) { .vertical-index__storyworks-section { max-width: 976px; } } .vertical-index__storyworks-section > div > div.bbccom_visible > div { background: #f1f1f1; display: inline-block; padding: 8px !important; } .vertical-index__full-width-ad .bbccom_standard_slot, .vertical-index__hero-article-leaderboard .bbccom_standard_slot { background-color: transparent !important; } .latest-articles__container { margin-bottom: 24px; } .latest-articles__container--tablet { margin-bottom: 26px; } .latest-articles__container--desktop { margin-bottom: 32px; } .latest-articles__articles { margin: auto; } .latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle { margin: auto; } .latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle { margin: auto 8px; } .latest-articles__editor { color: #020202; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 2.92px; margin: 0 0 22px; } .latest-articles__editor--tablet { margin-bottom: 32px; } .latest-articles__editor--desktop { margin-bottom: 36px; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu > div { padding: 0 8px 8px !important; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert { background: #f1f1f1; padding: 0 8px 8px; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert > div { padding: 0; } .latest-articles__rectangle .bbccom_mpu_bottom { background: #f1f1f1; padding: 0 8px 8px; padding-bottom: 8px !important; } .latest-articles__container { margin-bottom: 24px; } .latest-articles__container--tablet { margin-bottom: 26px; } .latest-articles__container--desktop { margin-bottom: 32px; } .latest-articles__articles { margin: auto; } .latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle { margin: auto; } .latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle { margin: auto 8px; } .latest-articles__editor { color: #020202; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 2.92px; margin: 0 0 22px; } .latest-articles__editor--tablet { margin-bottom: 32px; } .latest-articles__editor--desktop { margin-bottom: 36px; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu > div { padding: 0 8px 8px !important; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert { background: #f1f1f1; padding: 0 8px 8px; } .latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert > div { padding: 0; } .latest-articles__rectangle .bbccom_mpu_bottom { background: #f1f1f1; padding: 0 8px 8px; padding-bottom: 8px !important; } .around-the-bbc-swimlane { margin-top: auto; } </style> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/features_prod.js"></script> </head> <body> <div id="cookiePrompt"></div> <noscript><p style="position: absolute; top: -999em"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://a1.api.bbc.co.uk/hit.xiti?&col=1&from=p&ptag=js&s=598253&p=travel.page&x2=[responsive]&x3=[bbc_website]&x4=[en]&x7=[index-home]&x8=[reverb-3.3.0-nojs]&x11=[FEATURE_SITES_GNL]&x12=[GNL_TRAVEL]" height="1" width="1" alt=""></p></noscript><div id="bbccom_interstitial_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_interstitial" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper" class="bbccom_display_none"></div> <header id="orb-banner" role="banner" aria-label="BBC"><div id="orb-header" class="orb-nav-pri orb-nav-pri-white orb-nav-empty" dir="ltr"><div class="orb-nav-pri-container b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-blocks new-logo"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/">Homepage</a></div><section><div class="orb-skip-links"><h2>Accessibility links</h2><ul><li><a href="#orb-modules">Skip to content</a></li><li><a id="orb-accessibility-help" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li></ul></div></section><div id="mybbc-wrapper" class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-id orb-nav-focus orb-nav-id-default"> <div id="idcta-statusbar" class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-focus" data-bbc-container="id-cta" data-bbc-event-type="click" data-bbc-ignore-views="1" data-bbc-metadata="{"id-cta-type": "statusbar-orb"}" data-bbc-source="responsive_web" data-bbc-title="id-cta-sign-in"><a id="idcta-link" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://account.bbc.com/account"><span id="idcta-username">BBC Account</span></a></div><script type="text/javascript">require(['idcta/statusbar'], function (statusbar) {new statusbar.Statusbar({id: 'idcta-statusbar', publiclyCacheable: true});});</script><a id="notification-link" class="js-notification-link animated three" href="#" style="display: none"><span class="hidden-span">Notifications</span><div class="notification-link--triangle"></div><div class="notification-link--triangle"></div><span id="not-num"></span></a> </div><nav role="navigation" aria-label="BBC" class="orb-nav"><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-links orb-nav-focus" id="orb-nav-links"><ul><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/">Home</a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news">News</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport">Sport</a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather">Weather</a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer">iPlayer</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds">Sounds</a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc">CBBC</a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies">CBeebies</a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food">Food</a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize">Bitesize</a></li><li class="orb-nav-arts"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/arts">Arts</a></li><li class="orb-nav-taster"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/taster">Taster</a></li><li class="orb-nav-local"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/localnews">Local</a></li><li class="orb-nav-three"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcthree">Three</a></li><li id="orb-nav-more" style="width: 88px" aria-controls="orb-panel-more"><a href="#orb-footer" data-alt="More" class="istats-notrack">Menu<span class="orb-icon orb-icon-arrow"></span></a></li></ul></div></nav><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-search"> <a class="orb-search__button" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search" title="Search the BBC">Search</a><form class="b-f" id="orb-search-form" role="search" method="get" action="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search" accept-charset="utf-8"><div><label for="orb-search-q">Search the BBC</label><input id="orb-search-q" type="text" autocomplete="off" autocorrect="off" autocapitalize="off" spellcheck="false" maxlength="100" name="q" placeholder="Search"><button id="orb-search-button" class="orb-search__button">Search the BBC</button><input type="hidden" name="suggid" id="orb-search-suggid"></div></form><form id="orbit-search-form" role="search" method="get" action="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search" accept-charset="utf-8"><div> <button id="orbit-search-button"><svg class="search-button-icon" width="1.75rem" height="1.8125rem" viewbox="0 0 28 29" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><title>Search BBC</title><path d="M11,0 C17.0751322,0 22,4.92486775 22,11 C22,13.5277632 21.1473793,15.8563862 19.7140404,17.7139664 L28,26.0001 L25,29.0001 L16.518046,20.5179339 C14.8960209,21.4603385 13.0110328,22 11,22 C4.92486775,22 0,17.0751322 0,11 C0,4.92486775 4.92486775,0 11,0 Z M11,2.5001 C6.30557963,2.5001 2.5,6.30567963 2.5,11.0001 C2.5,15.6945204 6.30557963,19.5001 11,19.5001 C15.6944204,19.5001 19.5,15.6945204 19.5,11.0001 C19.5,6.30567963 15.6944204,2.5001 11,2.5001 Z" id="Shape"></path></svg><svg class="search-box-icon" width="1rem" height="1rem" viewbox="0 0 20 20" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><path d="M4.31263591,11.9770508 C3.26116255,10.925 2.68223368,9.52721354 2.68223368,8.04036458 C2.68223368,6.55351563 3.26116255,5.15572917 4.31325442,4.10491536 C5.36410928,3.05286458 6.76133182,2.47395833 8.24823886,2.47395833 C9.7351459,2.47395833 11.1336055,3.05348307 12.1850788,4.10491536 C14.3548251,6.27457682 14.3554436,9.80615234 12.1850788,11.9770508 C11.1336055,13.0278646 9.7351459,13.6067708 8.24823886,13.6067708 C6.76195034,13.6067708 5.36410928,13.0278646 4.31263591,11.9770508 L4.31263591,11.9770508 Z M20,17.6059245 L14.9195281,12.525651 C17.0268044,9.39980469 16.7002292,5.12171224 13.9348542,2.35520833 C12.3644478,0.785481771 10.3066526,0 8.24823886,0 C6.19106215,0 4.13264841,0.785481771 2.56347904,2.35520833 C-0.576715236,5.49589844 -0.576715236,10.5860677 2.56347904,13.7255208 C4.13326692,15.2964844 6.19106215,16.0807292 8.24823886,16.0807292 C9.81555269,16.0807292 11.3816295,15.6230469 12.733082,14.7120117 L17.8129354,19.7916667 L20,17.6059245 Z"></path></svg><span>Search BBC</span></button></div></form> </div></div><div id="orb-panels"></div></div></header>  <div id="orb-modules"> <div id="root"><div id="ad-portal"></div><nav class="navigation navigation--display"><div class="nav-bar"><div class="nav-build-bar nav-build-bar--mobile"><div class="nav-build-bar__branding"><a class="branding branding--travel branding--medium" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span class="branding__icon branding__icon--travel branding__icon--medium"><svg version="1.1" id="Layer_1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 84.8 15.8" style="enable-background:new 0 0 84.8 15.8;" xml:space="preserve"><style type="text/css"> .st0{fill:#FFFFFF;} </style><g><path class="st0" d="M0,0h13.1v2.4H7.9v13.4H5.1V2.4H0V0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M18.1,9.7v6h-2.8V0h5.4c2,0,3.6,0.4,4.7,1.3c1.1,0.8,1.6,2,1.6,3.6c0,1-0.3,1.9-0.8,2.7 C25.7,8.3,25,8.9,24,9.2c0.7,1.1,1.4,2.1,2.1,3.2s1.3,2.2,2,3.3h-3.2c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.2,0-0.4,0-0.6,0 H18.1z M18.1,2.2v5.3h2.5c1.2,0,2.1-0.2,2.8-0.6c0.6-0.4,0.9-1.1,0.9-2s-0.3-1.6-0.9-2s-1.5-0.6-2.7-0.6h-2.6V2.2z"></path><path class="st0" d="M42.2,15.8c-0.2-0.6-0.4-1.3-0.7-1.9c-0.2-0.6-0.5-1.3-0.7-1.9h-6.9c-0.2,0.6-0.5,1.3-0.7,1.9 c-0.2,0.6-0.4,1.3-0.7,1.9h-3c1-2.8,2-5.5,3.1-8.1C33.7,5,34.8,2.5,35.9,0h3c1.1,2.6,2.2,5.3,3.3,7.9s2.1,5.3,3.1,7.9H42.2z M34.7,9.6h5.2c-0.4-1.2-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4c-0.4-1.1-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4C36.9,3.9,36.4,5,36,6.2C35.6,7.3,35.2,8.5,34.7,9.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M58.6,0c-1,2.6-2,5.3-3,7.9s-2.1,5.3-3.1,7.9h-3c-1.1-2.6-2.1-5.2-3.2-7.9c-1-2.6-2-5.3-3-7.9h3 c0.8,2.2,1.5,4.3,2.3,6.5s1.6,4.3,2.4,6.5c0.8-2.1,1.6-4.3,2.4-6.5c0.8-2.2,1.5-4.3,2.3-6.5H58.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M60.7,0h10.6v2.4h-7.7v4.1h6.9v2.4h-6.9v4.6h8.2v2.4h-11L60.7,0L60.7,0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M74.3,0h2.8v13.4h7.8v2.4H74.3V0z"></path></g></svg></span></a></div><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile"><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav-button"><button class="open-nav" aria-label="Open more navigation" aria-haspopup="true" aria-expanded="false" id="open-nav"><div class="open-nav__label"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Menu</p></div><div class="open-nav__icon"><div class="burger-nav gelicon--menu burger-nav--travel"></div></div></button></div></div></div></div></nav><div class="app__body"><div class="loader loader--is-active"><div class="loader__body loader__body--show-loader"><div class="loading-spinner"><span class="loading-spinner__image"><span class="spinner--travel"><svg class="spinner__image" viewbox="0 0 32 32" id="gel-icon-loading" width="100%" height="100%"><path d="M29.8 8l-3.5 2c1 1.8 1.6 3.8 1.6 6 0 6.6-5.4 12-12 12S4 22.6 4 16 9.4 4 16 4V0C7.2 0 0 7.2 0 16s7.2 16 16 16 16-7.2 16-16c0-2.9-.8-5.6-2.2-8z"></path></svg></span></span><span class="loading-spinner__message b-reith-sans-font">Loading</span></div></div></div><main class="main"><div class="vertical-index"><div class="vertical-index__article-hero"><div data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="A new look at the eighth World Wonder" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient article-hero--small-mobile article-hero--small-tablet article-hero--desktop article-hero--large-desktop"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><span>Adventure & Experience</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/history">History</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 article-hero__content-title--small article-hero__content-title--tablet"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism"><div class="article-hero__title-text"> A new look at the eighth World Wonder </div><hr class="article-hero__content-line"/></a></div><div class="article-hero__content-cta"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism">Read More<div class="article-hero__content-right-arrow article-hero__content-right-arrow--small"></div></a></div></div><button tabindex="0" class="article-hero__down-arrow"><img src="data:image/png;base64,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" alt="down-arrow"/></button><div class="article-hero__background"><picture><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p09wg29p.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p09wg29p.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09wg29p.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09wg29p.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Quagga/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09wg29p.jpg" alt="(Credit: Quagga/Alamy)" id="article-hero-img-js"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--tablet"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--tablet">Editor's Picks</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--tablet latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle"><div class="rectangle-story-group"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="China's ancient 'stairways to heaven'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zmvzx.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zmvzx.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zmvzx.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zmvzx.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zmvzx.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zmvzx.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zmvzx.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zmvzx.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in clouds in Yuanyang, China" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zmvzx.jpg" alt="Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in clouds in Yuanyang, China" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/ancient-engineering-marvels"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Ancient Engineering Marvels</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">China's ancient 'stairways to heaven'</h2></a><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--light-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif b-reith-sans-font">By Gary Jones</p></div></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Canada's 6,000-year-old 'Silk Road'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zswgq.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zswgq.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zswgq.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zswgq.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zswgq.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zswgq.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zswgq.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zswgq.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The little-known hiking trail that built Canada (Credit: Rosemary Behan/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zswgq.jpg" alt="The little-known hiking trail that built Canada (Credit: Rosemary Behan/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/slowcomotion"><span>Slowcomotion</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada"><span>Canada's 6,000-year-old 'Silk Road'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Diane Selkirk</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The unique culture of Berlin spätis" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zlhfy.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09zlhfy.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zlhfy.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09zlhfy.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zlhfy.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zlhfy.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zlhfy.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09zlhfy.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="While many spätis sell similar items, they each have their own distinct personalities (Credit: Krystin Arneson)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09zlhfy.jpg" alt="While many spätis sell similar items, they each have their own distinct personalities (Credit: Krystin Arneson)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culture-identity"><span>Culture & Identity</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin"><span>The unique culture of Berlin spätis</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Krystin Arneson</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The island made of edible soil" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09z1y91.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09z1y91.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09z1y91.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09z1y91.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09z1y91.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09z1y91.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09z1y91.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09z1y91.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Multi-coloured soil on Hormuz Island, south Iran" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09z1y91.jpg" alt="Multi-coloured soil on Hormuz Island, south Iran" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/geological-marvels"><span>Geological Marvels</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know"><span>The island made of edible soil</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Misbaah Mansuri</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="50 Reasons to Love the World" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09lrtz6.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09lrtz6.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09lrtz6.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09lrtz6.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09lrtz6.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09lrtz6.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09lrtz6.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09lrtz6.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Frederic Desmoulins/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09lrtz6.jpg" alt="(Credit: Frederic Desmoulins/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.in/3zIcZMd" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021</span></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.in/3zIcZMd" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">50 Reasons to Love the World</h2></a></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--tablet"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--tablet">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--tablet latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle"><div class="rectangle-story-group"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The world's safest cities in 2021" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xr9sn.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xr9sn.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xr9sn.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xr9sn.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xr9sn.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xr9sn.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xr9sn.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xr9sn.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xr9sn.jpg" alt="Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Adventure & Experience</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The world's safest cities in 2021</h2></a><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--light-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif b-reith-sans-font">By Lindsey Galloway</p></div></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The blue men of the Sahara" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09x2k4x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09x2k4x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09x2k4x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09x2k4x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09x2k4x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09x2k4x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09x2k4x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09x2k4x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09x2k4x.jpg" alt="Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/in-pictures"><span>In Pictures</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara"><span>The blue men of the Sahara</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Juan Martinez</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A lake with the oldest evidence of life" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09qqv0v.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09qqv0v.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09qqv0v.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09qqv0v.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09qqv0v.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09qqv0v.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09qqv0v.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09qqv0v.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09qqv0v.jpg" alt="Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/natures-curiosities"><span>Nature’s Curiosities</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms"><span>A lake with the oldest evidence of life</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Emma Elsworthy</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--tablet rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Untold America" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item--tablet"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.in/3jXnK59" class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id=""><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--medium" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p08qwhwf.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p08qwhwf.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p08qwhwf.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p08qwhwf.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p08qwhwf.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p08qwhwf.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p08qwhwf.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p08qwhwf.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Halbergman/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p08qwhwf.jpg" alt="(Credit: Halbergman/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/bespoke/untold-america/" class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--tablet rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id=""><span>The spirit of the US</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://bbc.in/3jXnK59" class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id=""><span>Untold America</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><a class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__most-popular-container"><div class="most-popular"><div class="most-popular__inner"><h2 class="most-popular__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-800">Most Popular</h2><div class="most-popular__items"><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The unearthing of Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::0"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culture-identity"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Culture & Identity</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">1</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The unearthing of Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="How a Scottish mountain weighed the planet" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">2</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">How a Scottish mountain weighed the planet</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Chhurpi: The world's hardest cheese?" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/50-reasons-to-love-the-world"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">50 Reasons to Love the World</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">3</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">Chhurpi: The world's hardest cheese?</h2></a></div></div></div><div class="see-more-button-container"><div class="see-more-button"><button class="see-more-button-inner b-reith-sans-font"><span class="see-more-button-inner__text">See more</span><i class="see-more-button-inner__arrow gelicon gelicon--down"></i></button></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__collection-swimlane"></div><div class="vertical-index__collection-swimlane"></div><div class="vertical-index__collection-swimlane"></div><div class="around-the-bbc-swimlane"><div class="swimlane"><div class="swimlane-inner swimlane-inner--small"><div class="swimlane__content"><span class="swimlane__title b-reith-sans-font">Around the BBC</span><div class="swimlane__items"></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__background-image swimlane__background-image--atb" style="background-image:linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(0,0,0,0.50) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.50) 100%), url(https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p099tg7y.jpg);background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:cover"></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = {"router":{"location":{"pathname":"\u002Ftravel","search":"","hash":"","state":undefined,"key":"mgvyhh"},"action":"POP"},"config":{"version":"2.1.3","adsEnabled":false,"domain":"www.bbc.com","env":"live","clientApiUrl":"\u002Fdata","faqsUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffaqs","mapboxAccessToken":"pk.eyJ1IjoiYmJjd29ybGR3aWRlIiwiYSI6ImNpemp2dWZ0OTAwNGkyd3I0bHV6ems3eDMifQ.Vxn6FQ8xNwEltlVVvwpCjw","imageRecipe":{"recipePrefix":"live\u002F"},"analytics":{"ati":{"destination":"FEATURE_SITES_GNL","producer":"GNL_HOMEPAGE"},"chartbeat":{"uid":50924,"domain":"bbc.co.uk"}},"entityRouterProtocol":"https","swimlanes":true,"future":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Future","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_FUTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCFuture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbcfuture_official","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official"}},"facebookPageIds":"279678448760878"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"BBC Future Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp08gp0tv.jpg"},"future-planet":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp0836dcl.jpg","collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqy6.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09sbm5d.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.future","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"future"},"metaData":{"description":"You’ll find stories on BBC Future on almost every topic that matters: psychology, food, climate change, health, social trends, technology and more.","titleDefault":"BBC Future","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_FUTURE"}}},"worklife":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCWorklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCWorklife"},"instagram":{"username":"BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"}},"facebookPageIds":"133536249999517"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"image"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06dkks1.jpg"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.worklife","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"worklife"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest insight and advice from BBC Worklife: careers, milestones, leadership, personal finance, economy, future of work, wellness, professional life abroad - everything you need to upgrade yourself.","titleDefault":"BBC Worklife","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CAPITAL"}},"swimlanes":[{"id":"office-space","title":"Office Space","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp00sm03v.jpg"},{"id":"work-ethic","title":"Work Ethic","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06yflr4.jpg"}]},"culture":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_CULTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCCulture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCCulture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_culture"}},"facebookPageIds":"237388053065908"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"BBC Culture Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp08bmlwb.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.culture","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"culture"},"metaData":{"description":"Covering the latest in global arts and culture in all its forms, BBC Culture gives an international view of film and TV, books, art, music and style.","titleDefault":"BBC Culture","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CULTURE"}}},"travel":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_TRAVEL"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCTravel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel"}},"facebookPageIds":"147105585468223"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"BBC Travel Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp099tg7y.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"destination":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq1x8.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq221.jpg","title":"Tag background image"},"destinationImageCard":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F2000x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination Image Card Background"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.travel","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"travel"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing.","titleDefault":"BBC Travel","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_TRAVEL"}}},"moduleId":"travel","isUk":false,"cacheExpiryMs":600000},"entities":{"authors":{"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdani-wright":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdani-wright","_id":"616ff66f45ceed41c0577b91","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Dani Wright","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-09-20T10:02:10.359242Z","entity":"author","guid":"c39331db-2708-4bd4-ba12-3e105d11a582","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdani-wright","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-20T10:02:10.359242Z","project":"travel","slug":"dani-wright","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgary-jones":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgary-jones","_id":"6175ffa745ceed483e245099","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Gary Jones","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-10-25T00:51:44.399792Z","entity":"author","guid":"414e99a9-a6c3-4919-b96b-b40c0de9ef73","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgary-jones","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-25T00:51:44.399792Z","project":"travel","slug":"gary-jones","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk","_id":"616ff69c45ceed50123d75a8","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Diane Selkirk","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","entity":"author","guid":"a3d45370-1190-47db-a0d4-2c27dc1d65ba","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk","modifiedDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","project":"travel","slug":"diane-selkirk","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkrystin-arneson":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkrystin-arneson","_id":"616ff69a45ceed4a1f55f52c","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Krystin Arneson","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2020-10-28T19:07:38.76502Z","entity":"author","guid":"4e56c70c-4e1c-4eba-926e-a0055d8aba62","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkrystin-arneson","modifiedDateTime":"2020-10-28T19:07:38.76502Z","project":"travel","slug":"krystin-arneson","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmisbaah-mansuri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmisbaah-mansuri","_id":"616ff69645ceed51e161e2c3","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Misbaah Mansuri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:47:05.770772Z","entity":"author","guid":"5599d035-7d4f-4bcd-8a2c-c5529b144baf","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmisbaah-mansuri","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:47:05.770772Z","project":"travel","slug":"misbaah-mansuri","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway","_id":"616ff6dc45ceed6d493292bb","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Lindsey Galloway","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","entity":"author","guid":"02866b57-59f0-48f0-8b41-8cd2c3f504fa","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway","modifiedDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","project":"travel","slug":"lindsey-galloway","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjuan-martinez":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjuan-martinez","_id":"616ff69445ceed50be2c0a64","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Juan Martinez","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2018-02-02T21:18:25.117817Z","entity":"author","guid":"4856c38a-3915-438b-bdc0-af6a9b073c7f","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjuan-martinez","modifiedDateTime":"2018-02-02T21:18:25.117817Z","project":"travel","slug":"juan-martinez","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femma-elsworthy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femma-elsworthy","_id":"616ff69645ceed50562731b8","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Emma Elsworthy","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-07-29T07:25:23.184004Z","entity":"author","guid":"fa90a6dc-e42a-4a90-98d2-4b51ebb5be10","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femma-elsworthy","modifiedDateTime":"2021-07-29T07:25:23.184004Z","project":"travel","slug":"emma-elsworthy","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell","_id":"616ff69d45ceed55112db062","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Ronan O'Connell","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2015-05-08T10:53:42.818134Z","entity":"author","guid":"6bf93e07-e127-4ea6-93da-8ac7d4ec5a3b","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell","modifiedDateTime":"2015-05-08T10:53:42.818134Z","project":"travel","slug":"ronan-oconnell","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-stafford":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-stafford","_id":"616ff68145ceed486f615b25","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Paul Stafford","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-10-07T02:06:21.80378Z","entity":"author","guid":"a7fe09d7-3476-47ae-8265-68f22f726899","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-stafford","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-07T02:06:21.80378Z","project":"travel","slug":"paul-stafford","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fneelima-vallangi":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fneelima-vallangi","_id":"616ff6a145ceed4dff5e232f","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Neelima Vallangi","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","entity":"author","guid":"9124ad5f-a9cc-4f1e-ae49-4a8ed3941d20","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fneelima-vallangi","modifiedDateTime":"2015-02-10T17:49:03Z","project":"travel","slug":"neelima-vallangi","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fulrike-lemmin-woolfrey":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fulrike-lemmin-woolfrey","_id":"616ff6d945ceed6d5a02c3a0","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2020-06-24T06:19:36.370012Z","entity":"author","guid":"c4c458bd-3af6-4d9a-96f4-759f14f7d7c6","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fulrike-lemmin-woolfrey","modifiedDateTime":"2020-06-24T06:19:36.370012Z","project":"travel","slug":"ulrike-lemmin-woolfrey","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjack-palfrey":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjack-palfrey","_id":"616ff67a45ceed2d0a57c434","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Jack Palfrey","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2017-01-31T14:52:36.048693Z","entity":"author","guid":"9f8525fe-1745-42d4-8102-b0854231d9b1","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjack-palfrey","modifiedDateTime":"2017-01-31T14:52:36.048693Z","project":"travel","slug":"jack-palfrey","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjessica-vincent":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjessica-vincent","_id":"616ff6d745ceed6d493292a9","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Jessica Vincent","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2019-09-03T22:25:21.637389Z","entity":"author","guid":"1b3ef7db-1e93-4598-97e3-19186e991339","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjessica-vincent","modifiedDateTime":"2019-09-03T22:25:21.637389Z","project":"travel","slug":"jessica-vincent","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbahira-amin":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbahira-amin","_id":"616ff67045ceed420d336361","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Bahira Amin","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-09-22T13:02:43.135513Z","entity":"author","guid":"b5a848c3-6d4a-41bd-94e6-dde1087e94be","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbahira-amin","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-22T13:02:43.135513Z","project":"travel","slug":"bahira-amin","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri","_id":"616ff6e245ceed5fb451c054","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Stephanie Zubiri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-09-20T14:22:14.285847Z","entity":"author","guid":"3488f970-c8ac-4a5c-b68e-7ae7c68103e2","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-20T14:22:14.285847Z","project":"travel","slug":"stephanie-zubiri","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri","_id":"616ff69a45ceed4dff5e2324","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":null,"name":"Amy Bizzarri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-09-17T17:29:57.384421Z","entity":"author","guid":"143662f4-cb0e-4fa9-9dec-1882c241c27e","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-17T17:29:57.384421Z","project":"travel","slug":"amy-bizzarri","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806}},"collections":{"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","_id":"616ff6b545ceed5f490f3763","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Journey to all corners of the planet to uncover secret worlds, lost treasures and extraordinary locations – and meet the people along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Adventure & Experience","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Adventure & Experience","creationDateTime":"2017-08-03T17:37:01.660775Z","entity":"collection","guid":"7a457878-4baf-4a02-82b9-0b3f407bd073","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:11:36.845304Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fadventure-experience","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Ftravel-journeys":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Ftravel-journeys","_id":"616ff68b45ceed4b5c3ea057","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"premium-collection","description":"Be transported to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A woman standing on a scenic lookout overlooking Moraine Lake in Alberta, Canada.","isPremiumCollection":true,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Travel Journeys","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"229F09","title":"Travel Journeys","creationDateTime":"2021-09-22T15:03:38.172087Z","entity":"collection","guid":"b99d0514-6299-404f-8add-975785e24338","id":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Ftravel-journeys","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:50:31.394175Z","project":"travel","slug":"premium-collection\u002Ftravel-journeys","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","_id":"616ff68a45ceed4884574160","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Ancient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-07-16T02:28:12.584423Z","entity":"collection","guid":"19882d18-7b3e-4707-9881-6c30dc4841f0","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:11:44.15941Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","image":["p09pldr6"],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","_id":"616ff6a945ceed59f66231d8","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate slow, self-propelled travel and head outside to reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Slowcomotion","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Slowcomotion","creationDateTime":"2021-04-16T16:15:54.626979Z","entity":"collection","guid":"cfef0817-cbe9-41c3-8674-b84f751f83ba","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:13:45.890022Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fslowcomotion","image":["p09dxbd3"],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","_id":"616ff68c45ceed486f615b2d","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Capture the essence of a place through its culture, language and people – and change your perceptions of the world.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Culture & Identity","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Culture & Identity","creationDateTime":"2017-08-02T17:49:47.728761Z","entity":"collection","guid":"b6186a2c-c139-4b80-b3ed-0f393559a050","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:12:14.472084Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fculture-identity","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","_id":"616ff6e045ceed5bd10bdf1b","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Geological Marvels is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural phenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Phong Nha, Vietnam","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Geological Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Geological Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:40:56.445195Z","entity":"collection","guid":"b83511aa-a4ef-477c-9601-56c14c59fa98","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:58:14.012064Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fgeological-marvels","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","_id":"616ff6d345ceed6d6649e052","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Fall in love with the world just by looking at it, with BBC Travel’s stunning images from around the globe.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"In Pictures","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"In Pictures","creationDateTime":"2019-05-06T14:39:19.691056Z","entity":"collection","guid":"c6c2c33e-a808-4d56-8cbe-026b470bbbd9","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:12:56.564992Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fin-pictures","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities","_id":"616ff6ac45ceed4dff5e233e","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Get a close-up look at the natural world and go on an unexpected journey of exploration.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Nature’s Curiosities","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Nature’s Curiosities","creationDateTime":"2020-10-26T17:35:04.098469Z","entity":"collection","guid":"eb59978a-c6f3-4535-aaf8-35504c0231bc","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:13:18.941802Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fnatures-curiosities","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world","_id":"616ff6b145ceed575f0621ae","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"premium-collection","description":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mangrove de Voh if located in Nouvelle-Calédonie","isPremiumCollection":true,"moreArticles":[],"name":"50 Reasons to Love the World","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"#0F79A7","title":"50 Reasons to Love the World","creationDateTime":"2021-06-14T20:50:51.732617Z","entity":"collection","guid":"bf2e3a2b-50fd-462f-b548-2bfb5078693b","id":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:15:17.33684Z","project":"travel","slug":"premium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","_id":"616ff6af45ceed53f83dcae0","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Immerse yourself in local food, drink, traditions and customs, while experiencing a shared humanity.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Food & Hospitality","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Food & Hospitality","creationDateTime":"2017-08-03T16:14:19.253078Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e61b2885-5eb8-45f1-a6eb-96b493b11e7f","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:12:34.159101Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Ffood-hospitality","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffuture-of-travel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffuture-of-travel","_id":"616ff6df45ceed6d493292d4","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Investigate what the world might look like to travellers in the coming years and meet the people living on the frontlines of change.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Future of Travel","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Future of Travel","creationDateTime":"2020-06-16T12:57:55.361091Z","entity":"collection","guid":"4e3f019a-5f97-4c18-a283-680bb41003f9","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffuture-of-travel","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:12:49.297193Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Ffuture-of-travel","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain","_id":"616ff6a845ceed5adf5f1541","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Uncover the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Hidden Britain","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Hidden Britain","creationDateTime":"2021-05-06T18:45:00.50274Z","entity":"collection","guid":"9d7c5e0f-d052-4306-b9bc-fade961b5b46","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-26T08:12:53.022929Z","project":"travel","slug":"column\u002Fhidden-britain","image":["p09gvtjv"],"cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812}},"images":{"p09wg23h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wg23h","_id":"616ff54245ceed301d4652d5","copyright":"Jesper Bülow\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1277627,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fg2\u002Fp09wg23h.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jesper Bülow\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The Waiotapu geothermal area is home to some of New Zealand's most unique geothermal and volcanic features (Credit: Jesper Bülow\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Steaming hot spring at Champagne Pool, Rotorua","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg23h.jpg","title":"GettyImages-139553546.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wg23h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg23h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"p09wg1xl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wg1xl","_id":"616ff53e45ceed19c67b54d9","copyright":"Waimangu Volcanic Valley","fileSizeBytes":1685378,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fg1\u002Fp09wg1xl.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Waimangu Volcanic Valley)","synopsisMedium":"In 1886, Mount Tarawera erupted and destroyed the Pink and White Terraces (Credit: Waimangu Volcanic Valley)","synopsisShort":"Picture of Mount Tarawera erupting in 1886","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg1xl.jpg","title":"Tarawera-Eruption-10-June-1886.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wg1xl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg1xl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"p09wg1tw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wg1tw","_id":"616ff5fe45ceed0c4a4053fd","copyright":"Jon Lovette\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1140950,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1172,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fg1\u002Fp09wg1tw.jpg","sourceWidth":2084,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jon Lovette\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The new Lake Rotomahana is 10 times larger and deeper than the old lake (Credit: Jon Lovette\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"View towards Lake Rotomahana, Waimangu Valley Volcanic Park","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg1tw.jpg","title":"GettyImages-609217813.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wg1tw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg1tw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"p09wg29p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wg29p","_id":"616ff53e45ceed36e85dcca5","copyright":"Quagga\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2343234,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2658,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fg2\u002Fp09wg29p.jpg","sourceWidth":4726,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Quagga\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Quagga\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Old photograph of the Pink and White Terraces in New Zealand","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg29p.jpg","title":"JYF3CF (1).jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wg29p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wg29p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"p09zmvzv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zmvzv","_id":"6176025f45ceed483e24509e","copyright":"Gary Jones","fileSizeBytes":1150719,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1441,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fmv\u002Fp09zmvzv.jpg","sourceWidth":2560,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Gary Jones)","synopsisMedium":"Hani farmers began carving the terraces out of the mountains during the Tang dynasty (Credit: Gary Jones)","synopsisShort":"Hani man working on the Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzv.jpg","title":"Hani farmers began carving the terraces out of the mountains during the Tang dynasty","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zmvzv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"p09zmvzq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zmvzq","_id":"6176026145ceed483e2450a0","copyright":"Jef Wodniack\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1296217,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fmv\u002Fp09zmvzq.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jef Wodniack\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The hand-carved terraces slot together like a giant jigsaw puzzle (Credit: Jef Wodniack\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Close up of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzq.jpg","title":"The hand-carved terraces slot together like a giant jigsaw puzzle","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zmvzq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"p09zmvzn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zmvzn","_id":"6176026045ceed483e24509f","copyright":"Gary Jones","fileSizeBytes":1320355,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2332,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fmv\u002Fp09zmvzn.jpg","sourceWidth":2332,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Gary Jones)","synopsisMedium":"Almost 90% of the population of Yuanyang county is made up of tribal groups (Credit: Gary Jones)","synopsisShort":"Portrait of an elderly Hani woman in Yunnan, China","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzn.jpg","title":"Almost 90% of the population of Yuanyang county is made up of tribal groups","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zmvzn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"p09zmvy9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zmvy9","_id":"6176026245ceed483e2450a1","copyright":"Aphotostory\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1451536,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1259,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fmv\u002Fp09zmvy9.jpg","sourceWidth":2238,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Aphotostory\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The multi-generational engineering project spreads over more than 160sq km (Credit: Aphotostory\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvy9.jpg","title":"The multi-generational engineering project spreads over more than 160sq km","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zmvy9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvy9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"p09zmvzx":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zmvzx","_id":"6176025e45ceed483e24509d","copyright":"Chaiyun Damkaew\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1118456,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1192,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fmv\u002Fp09zmvzx.jpg","sourceWidth":2119,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Chaiyun Damkaew\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Chaiyun Damkaew\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in clouds in Yuanyang, China","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzx.jpg","title":"(Credit: Chaiyun Damkaew\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zmvzx","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zmvzx.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"p09zszy4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zszy4","_id":"617304bf45ceed6304039efb","copyright":"Diane Selkirk","fileSizeBytes":1058508,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fsz\u002Fp09zszy4.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisMedium":"The trail starts by the glacier-fed Bella Coola River and extends for 279 miles (Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisShort":"The Bella Coola River Valley","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zszy4.jpg","title":"The trail starts by the glacier-fed Bella Coola River and extends for 279 miles","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zszy4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zszy4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zt0lv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zt0lv","_id":"617304c045ceed6304039efc","copyright":"Diane Selkirk","fileSizeBytes":591378,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Ft0\u002Fp09zt0lv.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisMedium":"\"Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was lost in the clouds,\" wrote MacKenzie of the trail's timeless view (Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisShort":"A view of a cloud-shrouded mountain summit on the trail","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt0lv.jpg","title":"\"Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was lost in the clouds,\" wrote MacKenzie of the trail's view","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zt0lv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt0lv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zt1sh":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zt1sh","_id":"617304bf45ceed6304039ef9","copyright":"Diane Selkirk","fileSizeBytes":1618918,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Ft1\u002Fp09zt1sh.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisMedium":"First Nations communities used hundreds of grease trails to transport goods, and as settlers arrived, they used them to help unite modern-day Canada (Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisShort":"An image of the woods along a grease trail","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt1sh.jpg","title":"First Nations communities used hundreds of grease trails to transport goods","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zt1sh","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt1sh.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zt2bb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zt2bb","_id":"617304c045ceed6110159ae5","copyright":"Diane Selkirk","fileSizeBytes":806836,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Ft2\u002Fp09zt2bb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisMedium":"The Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail goes through six First Nations (Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisShort":"A First Nation sign below a towering mountain peak","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt2bb.jpg","title":"The Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail goes through six First Nations","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zt2bb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt2bb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zt37z":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zt37z","_id":"617304c245ceed6304039efd","copyright":"Diane Selkirk","fileSizeBytes":620969,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Ft3\u002Fp09zt37z.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisMedium":"Like the communities who have long lived here, the land surrounding the grease trails is enduring (Credit: Diane Selkirk)","synopsisShort":"A mountain summit seen from a grease trail","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt37z.jpg","title":"Like the communities who have long lived here, the land surrounding the grease trails is enduring","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zt37z","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zt37z.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zswgq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zswgq","_id":"617304c045ceed61450ffead","copyright":"Rosemary Behan\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":704283,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Fsw\u002Fp09zswgq.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Rosemary Behan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The little-known hiking trail that built Canada (Credit: Rosemary Behan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"An image of the Bella Coola Valley","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zswgq.jpg","title":"The little-known hiking trail that built Canada","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zswgq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zswgq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"p09zlh8x":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zlh8x","_id":"6171c48e45ceed63384e026d","copyright":"Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":1182973,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Flh\u002Fp09zlh8x.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"There are around 1,000 spätis in central Berlin, and they often reflect the area around them (Credit: Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Men sitting outside a späti drinking","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlh8x.jpg","title":"There are around 1,000 spätis in central Berlin, and they often reflect the area around them","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zlh8x","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlh8x.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"p09zlh77":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zlh77","_id":"6171c48d45ceed681f36538c","copyright":"Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":1170766,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Flh\u002Fp09zlh77.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The unique culture of Berlin spätis (Credit: Eden Breitz\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"The outside of a späti","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlh77.jpg","title":"The unique culture of Berlin spätis","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zlh77","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlh77.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"p09zlj0r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zlj0r","_id":"6171c48d45ceed681f36538f","copyright":"Krystin Arneson","fileSizeBytes":885794,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Flj\u002Fp09zlj0r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Krystin Arneson)","synopsisMedium":"Berlin's modern-day spätis were born from specialty shops set up to accommodate late-night East German workers (Credit: Krystin Arneson)","synopsisShort":"The outside of a späti","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlj0r.jpg","title":"Berlin's modern-day spätis were born from specialty shops set up to accommodate late-night East German workers","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zlj0r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlj0r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"p09zljq7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zljq7","_id":"6171c48d45ceed681f36538e","copyright":"ullstein picture\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":656198,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Flj\u002Fp09zljq7.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: ullstein picture\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Regardless of location, all spätis sell local to-go beers like Berliner Kindl for as little as €1 (Credit: ullstein picture\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A close-up of local beers for sale at a späti","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zljq7.jpg","title":"Regardless of location, all spätis sell local to-go beers like Berliner Kindl for as little as €1","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zljq7","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zljq7.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"p09zlhfy":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09zlhfy","_id":"6171c48d45ceed63384e026b","copyright":"Krystin Arneson","fileSizeBytes":883235,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002Flh\u002Fp09zlhfy.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Krystin Arneson)","synopsisMedium":"While many spätis sell similar items, they each have their own distinct personalities (Credit: Krystin Arneson)","synopsisShort":"A cat sitting on a späti counter","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlhfy.jpg","title":"While many spätis sell similar items, they each have their own distinct personalities","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09zlhfy","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09zlhfy.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"p09z1y8x":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09z1y8x","_id":"616ff59045ceed5cbb50ade2","copyright":"Saeed Abdolizadeh\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":1818370,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3384,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002F1y\u002Fp09z1y8x.jpg","sourceWidth":6016,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Saeed Abdolizadeh\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Locals believe that the salt found at the Goddess of Salt mountain has the power to release any negative energy (Credit: Saeed Abdolizadeh\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Salt dome (salt goddess) in hormuz island.southern iran.","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y8x.jpg","title":"Locals believe that the salt found at the Goddess of Salt mountain has the power to release any negative energy","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09z1y8x","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y8x.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"p09z1y8c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09z1y8c","_id":"616ff58845ceed544d7356f4","copyright":"Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2082093,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3072,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002F1y\u002Fp09z1y8c.jpg","sourceWidth":5461,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The island glows in shades of red, yellow and orange due to the more than 70 minerals found here (Credit: Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Coastline and orange beach at Hormuz Island, south Iran","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y8c.jpg","title":"The island glows in shades of red, yellow and orange due to the more than 70 minerals found here","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09z1y8c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y8c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"p09z1y91":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09z1y91","_id":"616ff55b45ceed3a1e335ee5","copyright":"Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2279973,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3071,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9z\u002F1y\u002Fp09z1y91.jpg","sourceWidth":5460,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Multi-coloured soil on Hormuz Island, south Iran","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y91.jpg","title":"(Credit: Lukas Bischoff\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09z1y91","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09z1y91.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"p09lrtz6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09lrtz6","_id":"616ff57945ceed5181523b02","copyright":"Frederic Desmoulins\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":3390255,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9l\u002Frt\u002Fp09lrtz6.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Frederic Desmoulins\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Frederic Desmoulins\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A Mangrove de Voh in Nouvelle-Calédonie","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09lrtz6.jpg","title":"Mangrove de Voh, Nouvelle-Calédonie","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09lrtz6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09lrtz6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09xr9td":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xr9td","_id":"616ff56245ceed446b5ed3f2","copyright":"Tim E White\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1229231,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fr9\u002Fp09xr9td.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tim E White\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Copenhagen’s abundant parks and open spaces played a key role in how residents coped with pandemic restrictions (Credit: Tim E White\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"People relaxing in park at sunset, Copenhagen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9td.jpg","title":"Copenhagen’s abundant parks and open spaces played a key role in how residents coped with pandemic restrictions","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xr9td","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9td.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09xr9sr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xr9sr","_id":"616ff59945ceed6164017c02","copyright":"Istvan Kadar Photography\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1450910,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fr9\u002Fp09xr9sr.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Istvan Kadar Photography\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Toronto ranked highly in the Safe Cities Index due to its inclusive culture and environmental security (Credit: Istvan Kadar Photography\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"People boating in Lake Ontario, Toronto, with cityscape behind","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sr.jpg","title":"Toronto ranked highly in the Safe Cities Index due to its inclusive culture and environmental security","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xr9sr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09xr9sq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xr9sq","_id":"616ff54f45ceed36eb5d248f","copyright":"Tonnaja\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1171571,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fr9\u002Fp09xr9sq.jpg","sourceWidth":2122,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tonnaja\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"To remain as safe as possible, Singapore is using crowd-tracking software and mobile apps for check ins (Credit: Tonnaja\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Merlion statue on waterfront at Merlion Park and city buildings in Singapore","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sq.jpg","title":"To remain as safe as possible, Singapore is using crowd-tracking software and mobile apps for check ins","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xr9sq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09xr9sn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xr9sn","_id":"616ff5a245ceed651d07e044","copyright":"Andrew Merry\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1193541,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fr9\u002Fp09xr9sn.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Andrew Merry\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Although Australia's international border has been closed since March 2020, new freedoms are on the horizon (Credit: Andrew Merry\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sn.jpg","title":"Although Australia's international border has been closed since March 2020, new freedoms are on the horizon","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xr9sn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09xr9sk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xr9sk","_id":"616ff53345ceed2fc8261e8f","copyright":"Uji Ozeki\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1038848,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fr9\u002Fp09xr9sk.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Uji Ozeki\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Tokyo ranked fifth in the overall Safe Cities Index and top of the health security index (Credit: Uji Ozeki\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Two women wearing masks wipe and disinfect café counter in Tokyo","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sk.jpg","title":"Tokyo ranked fifth in the overall Safe Cities Index and top of the health security index","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xr9sk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xr9sk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"p09x2kbs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2kbs","_id":"616ff54e45ceed3e970736f5","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1135919,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2kbs.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"The daraa and tagelmusts are two key clothing staples for the Sahara's traditionally nomadic men (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"The daraa and tagelmusts are two key clothing staples for the Sahara's nomadic men","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2kbs.jpg","title":"The daraa and tagelmusts are two key clothing staples for the Sahara's traditionally nomadic men","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2kbs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2kbs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k9y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k9y","_id":"616ff54245ceed36cf2f168a","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1085604,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k9y.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"The trans-Saharan trade era brought many different ethnic groups into Mauritania (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"The trans-Saharan trade era brought many different ethnic groups into Mauritania","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k9y.jpg","title":"The trans-Saharan trade era brought many different ethnic groups into Mauritania","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k9y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k9y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k9l":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k9l","_id":"616ff54b45ceed38f423edd7","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":918636,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k9l.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Books from around the Sahara made their way into libraries during the trans-Saharan trade era (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Books from around the Sahara made their way into libraries during the trans-Saharan trade","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k9l.jpg","title":"Books from around the Sahara made their way into libraries during the trans-Saharan trade era","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k9l","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k9l.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k94":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k94","_id":"616ff55245ceed3a47748943","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1209968,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k94.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"The Tuareg people are considered the \"blue men of the Sahara\" (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"The Tuareg people are considered the \"blue men of the Sahara\"","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k94.jpg","title":"The Tuareg people are considered the \"blue men of the Sahara\"","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k94","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k94.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k8r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k8r","_id":"616ff54445ceed361c415d27","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1178791,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k8r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Today, people wear light blue daraas for their similarity to traditional white daraas (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Today, people wear light blue daraas for their similarity to traditional white daraas","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k8r.jpg","title":"Today, people wear light blue daraas for their similarity to traditional white daraas","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k8r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k8r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k89":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k89","_id":"616ff55b45ceed422713857e","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1072131,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1081,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k89.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Many blue items are for sale in Nouakchott's central market (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Many blue items are for sale in Nouakchott's central market","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k89.jpg","title":"Many blue items are for sale in Nouakchott's central market","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k89","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k89.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k75":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k75","_id":"616ff54b45ceed3e8c30e4e2","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1166595,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k75.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Many daraas in Mauritania are embellished with gold and white embroidery (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Many daraas in Mauritania are embellished with gold and white embroidery","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k75.jpg","title":"Many daraas in Mauritania are embellished with gold and white embroidery","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k75","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k75.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k5k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k5k","_id":"616ff54445ceed3a680b41c4","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1215209,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k5k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k5k.jpg","title":"Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k5k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k5k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k55":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k55","_id":"616ff61945ceed15cb2e9e7f","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1025909,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k55.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"In Mauritania, younger generations regularly wear blue daraas (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"In Mauritania, younger generations regularly wear blue daraas","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k55.jpg","title":"In Mauritania, younger generations regularly wear blue daraas","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k55","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k55.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09x2k4x":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09x2k4x","_id":"616ff54745ceed361659096a","copyright":"Juan Martinez","fileSizeBytes":1059854,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002F2k\u002Fp09x2k4x.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisMedium":"Fashion styles symbolise the Tuareg's nomadic culture and traditions (Credit: Juan Martinez)","synopsisShort":"Fashion styles symbolise the Tuareg's nomadic culture and traditions","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k4x.jpg","title":"Fashion styles symbolise the Tuareg's nomadic culture and traditions","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09x2k4x","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09x2k4x.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"p09qqv0h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09qqv0h","_id":"616ff53445ceed2fc8261e94","copyright":"Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1212015,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9q\u002Fqv\u002Fp09qqv0h.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Lake Bacalar is known as the \"Lake of Seven Colours\" due to its vibrant thalassic hues (Credit: Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of stromatolites at Laguna Bacalar, Mexico","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqv0h.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1199078896.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09qqv0h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqv0h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"p09qqtzv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09qqtzv","_id":"616ff53f45ceed33dd079616","copyright":"Gerard Puigmal\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1132540,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9q\u002Fqt\u002Fp09qqtzv.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Gerard Puigmal\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The lake is home to an ancient population of stromatolites that are the oldest evidence of life on Earth (Credit: Gerard Puigmal\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Stomatolites floating in Lake Balacar, Mexico","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqtzv.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1204145790.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09qqtzv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqtzv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"p09qqtyn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09qqtyn","_id":"616ff52845ceed2cde1d5b18","copyright":"Medios y Media\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1257732,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1813,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9q\u002Fqt\u002Fp09qqtyn.jpg","sourceWidth":3223,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Medios y Media\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Due to a lack of measures to keep it safe from pollution, the lake's vibrant hues are turning brown (Credit: Medios y Media\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Drone photo of Bacalar Lagoon with brown and green-hued water","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqtyn.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1255658999.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09qqtyn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqtyn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"p09qqttf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09qqttf","_id":"616ff59545ceed55d44ff8ab","copyright":"Benedicte Desrus\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2200101,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3240,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9q\u002Fqt\u002Fp09qqttf.jpg","sourceWidth":5760,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Benedicte Desrus\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Slowed tourist activity during Covid has given the 42km-long lake a chance to recover (Credit: Benedicte Desrus\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"People kayaking down the the Bacalar rapids in Mexico","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqttf.jpg","title":"2F1HD78.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09qqttf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqttf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"p09qqv0v":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09qqv0v","_id":"61756f7f45ceed594055fc67","copyright":"Pola Damonte\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1372095,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1230,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9q\u002Fqv\u002Fp09qqv0v.jpg","sourceWidth":2186,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Pola Damonte\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Pola Damonte\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqv0v.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1177139284.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09qqv0v","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09qqv0v.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"p08qwhwf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p08qwhwf","_id":"616ff4ea45ceed12505ed353","copyright":"Halbergman\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1374044,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F8q\u002Fwh\u002Fp08qwhwf.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Halbergman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Halbergman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A woman standing behind the counter in a colorful taqueria holds a plate of food","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp08qwhwf.jpg","title":"A woman standing behind the counter in a colorful taqueria holds a plate of food","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p08qwhwf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp08qwhwf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xxynw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xxynw","_id":"616ff54545ceed2cc05dd857","copyright":"Ronan O'Connell","fileSizeBytes":2159673,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fxy\u002Fp09xxynw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisMedium":"According to Harte, we still don't fully know why the Irish used sweathouses (Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisShort":"Harte standing next to the ruins of an Irish sweathouse","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxynw.jpg","title":"According to Harte, we still don't fully know why the Irish used sweathouses","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xxynw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxynw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xxysv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xxysv","_id":"616ff59745ceed5f886212a4","copyright":"Aidan Harte","fileSizeBytes":2086673,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fxy\u002Fp09xxysv.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Aidan Harte)","synopsisMedium":"Sweathouses were made using uncut rock that was piled and bonded into a beehive-like dome with a low entrance and an opening at the top for steam (Credit: Aidan Harte)","synopsisShort":"The inside of an Irish sweathouse","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxysv.jpg","title":"Sweathouses were made using uncut rock that was piled and bonded into a beehive-like dome","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xxysv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxysv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xxz37":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xxz37","_id":"61759ff845ceed45a2465dcd","copyright":"Ronan O'Connell","fileSizeBytes":2032022,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fxz\u002Fp09xxz37.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisMedium":"Sweathouses were primarily used in rural areas, and more than one-third of all identified ones are located in picturesque County Leitrim (Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisShort":"A view of a lake in County Leitrim","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxz37.jpg","title":"Sweathouses were primarily used in rural areas, and many are located in picturesque County Leitrim","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xxz37","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxz37.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xxzgr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xxzgr","_id":"616ff53a45ceed34521f73ba","copyright":"Ronan O'Connell","fileSizeBytes":1631808,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fxz\u002Fp09xxzgr.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisMedium":"The sweathouse at Parke's Castle sits next to Lough Gill (Credit: Ronan O'Connell)","synopsisShort":"The sun setting near Parke's Castle in County Leitrim","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxzgr.jpg","title":"The sweathouse at Parke's Castle sits next to Lough Gill","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xxzgr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxzgr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xxyf9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xxyf9","_id":"616ff62145ceed1ee320b4c3","copyright":"Holmes Garden Photos\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2769787,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fxy\u002Fp09xxyf9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Holmes Garden Photos\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses (Credit: Holmes Garden Photos\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"An image of an Irish sweathouse","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxyf9.jpg","title":"Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xxyf9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xxyf9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"p09xyk6v":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xyk6v","_id":"616ff55e45ceed4252511764","copyright":"Julie Fryer Images\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":1727839,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2772,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fyk\u002Fp09xyk6v.jpg","sourceWidth":4928,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Julie Fryer Images\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Although Schiehallion's north and south slopes are extremely steep, its eastern flank is much gentler (Credit: Julie Fryer Images\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Schiehallion seen across a small loch at Glengoulandie in Perthshire on an Autumn day","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6v.jpg","title":"Although Schiehallion's north and south slopes are extremely steep, its eastern flank is much gentler","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xyk6v","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6v.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"p09xyk6s":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xyk6s","_id":"616ff57f45ceed5135716eb1","copyright":"Stan Pritchard\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":1816448,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4847,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fyk\u002Fp09xyk6s.jpg","sourceWidth":3878,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Stan Pritchard\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"A commemorative cairn at the start of the hike celebrates the work of Maskelyne and his team (Credit: Stan Pritchard\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Cairn at Schiehallion commemorating Maskelyne's gravitational force experiment in 1774","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6s.jpg","title":"A commemorative cairn at the start of the hike celebrates the work of Maskelyne and his team","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xyk6s","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6s.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"p09xyk6r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xyk6r","_id":"616ff58d45ceed54cf0aa569","copyright":"Paul Stafford","fileSizeBytes":2247642,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3375,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fyk\u002Fp09xyk6r.jpg","sourceWidth":6000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Paul Stafford)","synopsisMedium":"Schiehallion has no nearby peaks exerting their own force, which made it the perfect candidate for the experiment (Credit: Paul Stafford)","synopsisShort":"Empty hiking path leading up Schiehallion, Perthshire","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6r.jpg","title":"Schiehallion has no nearby peaks exerting their own force, which made it the perfect candidate for the experiment","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xyk6r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"p09xyk6y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xyk6y","_id":"616ff53b45ceed36532d7413","copyright":"Lucentius\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1285611,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1270,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fyk\u002Fp09xyk6y.jpg","sourceWidth":2258,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lucentius\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Lucentius\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"The cone shaped summit of Schiehallion, Perthshire above the east end of Loch Rannoch","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6y.jpg","title":"(Credit: Lucentius\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xyk6y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xyk6y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"p09xqt54":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xqt54","_id":"616ff56045ceed44ab703d2e","copyright":"Neelima Vallangi","fileSizeBytes":1456186,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fqt\u002Fp09xqt54.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Neelima Vallangi)","synopsisMedium":"Chhurpi is made high in the remote reaches of the Himalayas and is considered the world's hardest cheese (Credit: Neelima Vallangi)","synopsisShort":"A landscape shot of the Himalayan mountains","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqt54.jpg","title":"Chhurpi is made high in the remote reaches of the Himalayas and is considered the world's hardest cheese","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xqt54","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqt54.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xqtcp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xqtcp","_id":"616ff54545ceed39d7274967","copyright":"Neelima Vallangi","fileSizeBytes":1755402,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fqt\u002Fp09xqtcp.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Neelima Vallangi)","synopsisMedium":"Chhurpi is very dry, and when stored properly in animal skin, it can remain edible for up to 20 years (Credit: Neelima Vallangi)","synopsisShort":"Blocks of rectangular chhurpi cheese drying in a makeshift structure","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtcp.jpg","title":"Chhurpi is very dry, and when stored properly in animal skin, it can remain edible for up to 20 years","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xqtcp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtcp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xqtjw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xqtjw","_id":"616ff60345ceed10b64aa544","copyright":"Bijayabar Pradhan","fileSizeBytes":1263640,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fqt\u002Fp09xqtjw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisMedium":"Pasang and his family collect fresh milk daily that is then turned into chhurpi cheese (Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisShort":"Milk boiling over an open fire in Pasang's tent","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtjw.jpg","title":"Pasang and his family collect fresh milk daily that is then turned into chhurpi cheese","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xqtjw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtjw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xqtb1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xqtb1","_id":"616ff53145ceed28e073427c","copyright":"Bijayabar Pradhan","fileSizeBytes":1032524,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fqt\u002Fp09xqtb1.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisMedium":"For centuries, chauris have been vital to the livelihoods of many nomadic communities in the Himalayas (Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisShort":"A nomadic farmer walks along a mountain trail with his chauris","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtb1.jpg","title":"For centuries, chauris have been vital to the livelihoods of many nomadic communities in the Himalayas","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xqtb1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqtb1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xqt75":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xqt75","_id":"616ff54f45ceed3a47748940","copyright":"Bijayabar Pradhan","fileSizeBytes":1846395,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fqt\u002Fp09xqt75.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisMedium":"Pasang wakes up each morning at 04:00 to begin milking his chauris (Credit: Bijayabar Pradhan)","synopsisShort":"Pasang milking one of his chauris","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqt75.jpg","title":"Pasang wakes up each morning at 04:00 to begin milking his chauris","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xqt75","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xqt75.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xnjgd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xnjgd","_id":"616ff54a45ceed2b167fc722","copyright":"MaciejStangreciak\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1159971,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fnj\u002Fp09xnjgd.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: MaciejStangreciak\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"At street level, buildings are often windowless due to their use as animal shelters or working spaces (Credit: MaciejStangreciak\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Two women in traditional clothing in the old town of Sana'a, Yemen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjgd.jpg","title":"At street level, buildings are often windowless due to their use as animal shelters or working spaces","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xnjgd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjgd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xnjg3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xnjg3","_id":"616ff59645ceed5895031dc8","copyright":"Craig Pershouse\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1114451,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3478,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fnj\u002Fp09xnjg3.jpg","sourceWidth":2782,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Craig Pershouse\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Yemen’s monumental Dar al-Hajar palace is built on top of a natural rock spire (Credit: Craig Pershouse\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Palace of Dar al-Haja, Yemen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjg3.jpg","title":"Yemen’s monumental Dar al-Hajar palace is built on top of a natural rock spire","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xnjg3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjg3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xnjfs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xnjfs","_id":"616ff54e45ceed3bc96904fd","copyright":"DavorLovincic\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1876054,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2052,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fnj\u002Fp09xnjfs.jpg","sourceWidth":3648,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: DavorLovincic\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Known as \"The Manhattan of the Desert\", the 16th-Century walled city of Shibam was given World Heritage status in 1982 (Credit: DavorLovincic\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A city of skyscrapers in the middle of Hadramaut valley, Shibam, Yemen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjfs.jpg","title":"Known as \"The Manhattan of the Desert\", the 16th-Century walled city of Shibam was given World Heritage status in 1982","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xnjfs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjfs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xnjgm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xnjgm","_id":"616ff54345ceed33e76f2c89","copyright":"","fileSizeBytes":1472532,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fnj\u002Fp09xnjgm.jpg","sourceWidth":2120,"synopsisLong":"Credit: Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Credit: Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Mud houses in Sanaa in Yemen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjgm.jpg","title":"Credit: Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xnjgm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xnjgm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"p09xg580":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xg580","_id":"616ff54c45ceed3a6409a643","copyright":"Saiko3p\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1235250,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fg5\u002Fp09xg580.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Saiko3p\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Lake Titicaca on the border of Bolivia and Peru is home to the cultivated reed islands of the Uru people (Credit: Saiko3p\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Floating reed island on Lake Titicaca with colourful boats and houses","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg580.jpg","title":"Lake Titicaca on the border of Bolivia and Peru is home to the cultivated reed islands of the Uru people","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xg580","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg580.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"p09xg57c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xg57c","_id":"616ff54345ceed3a142feac4","copyright":"Ashley Cooper\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1469252,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fg5\u002Fp09xg57c.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ashley Cooper\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Ijburg, a suburb of Amsterdam, is the floating house capital, with increasing numbers of floating houses being constructed (Credit: Ashley Cooper\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Floating houses with boats outside in Ijburg, Amsterdam","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg57c.jpg","title":"Ijburg, a suburb of Amsterdam, is the floating house capital, with increasing numbers of floating houses being constructed","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xg57c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg57c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"p09xg55z":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xg55z","_id":"616ff58a45ceed589b3ef808","copyright":"Jack Palfrey","fileSizeBytes":1456600,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2403,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fg5\u002Fp09xg55z.jpg","sourceWidth":4272,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jack Palfrey)","synopsisMedium":"The Netherlands is home to a climate adaptive farm– and the floating facility is the first of its kind in the world (Credit: Jack Palfrey)","synopsisShort":"Cows eating hay on floating farm in Amsterdam","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg55z.jpg","title":"The Netherlands is home to a climate adaptive farm– and the floating facility is the first of its kind in the world","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xg55z","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg55z.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"p09xg536":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xg536","_id":"616ff58045ceed54521f16b9","copyright":"Bengal Pix\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":2152843,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3074,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fg5\u002Fp09xg536.jpg","sourceWidth":5464,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Bengal Pix\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Bangladesh's remarkable floating gardens rise and fall with the swelling waters (Credit: Bengal Pix\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Floating vegetable beds in waterlogged soil in Bangladesh","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg536.jpg","title":"Bangladesh's remarkable floating gardens rise and fall with the swelling waters","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xg536","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg536.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"p09xg58t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xg58t","_id":"616ff54545ceed36e942dd00","copyright":"OCEANIX\u002FBIG-Bjarke Ingels Group","fileSizeBytes":1273718,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1554,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fg5\u002Fp09xg58t.jpg","sourceWidth":2762,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: OCEANIX\u002FBIG-Bjarke Ingels Group)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: OCEANIX\u002FBIG-Bjarke Ingels Group)","synopsisShort":"Rendering of floating homes in ocean","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg58t.jpg","title":"(Credit: OCEANIX\u002FBIG-Bjarke Ingels Group)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xg58t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xg58t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"p09wtx2g":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wtx2g","_id":"616ff54a45ceed3a1d466e7d","copyright":"Wherry Yacht Charter","fileSizeBytes":1476075,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":957,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Ftx\u002Fp09wtx2g.jpg","sourceWidth":1702,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Wherry Yacht Charter)","synopsisMedium":"A quant is used to propel or turn a boat in the shallow waters of the Norfolk Broads (Credit: Wherry Yacht Charter)","synopsisShort":"Quant being used to turn a wherry on the Norfolk Broads","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx2g.jpg","title":"The art of quanting aboard a Norfolk Wherry_D9A4189.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wtx2g","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx2g.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"p09wtx0s":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wtx0s","_id":"616ff59845ceed592452f9fd","copyright":"Wherry Yacht Charter","fileSizeBytes":1304105,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":957,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Ftx\u002Fp09wtx0s.jpg","sourceWidth":1702,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Wherry Yacht Charter)","synopsisMedium":"Wherries are unique to the Norfolk Broads – and White Moth is among the last sailable vessels (Credit: Wherry Yacht Charter)","synopsisShort":"White Moth wherry sailing in the Norfolk Broads","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx0s.jpg","title":"Wherry yacht White Moth_D9A4127.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wtx0s","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx0s.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"p09wtwzy":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wtwzy","_id":"616ff55345ceed3e9e0d2fe5","copyright":"The Museum of the Broads","fileSizeBytes":1477197,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3217,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Ftw\u002Fp09wtwzy.jpg","sourceWidth":5720,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: The Museum of the Broads)","synopsisMedium":"Wherries were the primary form of transportation in Norfolk and Suffolk for two centuries (Credit: The Museum of the Broads)","synopsisShort":"Wherry at The Museum of the Broads, Norfolk","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtwzy.jpg","title":"5-DSC_0086.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wtwzy","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtwzy.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"p09wtx2n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wtx2n","_id":"616ff59145ceed50f36284fa","copyright":"Helen Storer\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1392666,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Ftx\u002Fp09wtx2n.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Helen Storer\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Helen Storer\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Abandoned windmill on the Norfolk Broads at sunset","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx2n.jpg","title":"GettyImages-851996838 (1).jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wtx2n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wtx2n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"p09wmpd8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wmpd8","_id":"616ff59845ceed60366c9263","copyright":"Mai Farouk","fileSizeBytes":867412,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fmp\u002Fp09wmpd8.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisMedium":"For thousands of years, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture (Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisShort":"For millennia, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmpd8.jpg","title":"For thousands of years, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wmpd8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmpd8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"p09wmnvc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wmnvc","_id":"616ff54145ceed36cf2f1688","copyright":"Mai Farouk","fileSizeBytes":832306,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fmn\u002Fp09wmnvc.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisMedium":"Amberkab uses a traditional copper weight to explain the traditional barter economy to Tarek and Merghany (Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisShort":"Hafsa Amberkab explains Nubia's traditional barter economy to Tarek and Merghany","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmnvc.jpg","title":"Amberkab uses a traditional copper weight to explain the traditional barter economy to Tarek and Merghany","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wmnvc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmnvc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"p09wmrbz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wmrbz","_id":"616ff53c45ceed33db1a4c5e","copyright":"Mai Farouk","fileSizeBytes":966475,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fmr\u002Fp09wmrbz.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisMedium":"Filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is helping to connect younger generations to their Nubian culture (Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisShort":"Filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is connecting younger generations to their Nubian culture","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmrbz.jpg","title":"Filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is helping to connect younger generations to their Nubian culture","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wmrbz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmrbz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"p09wmph6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wmph6","_id":"616ff54745ceed3c7f4f48b2","copyright":"Mai Farouk","fileSizeBytes":905266,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fmp\u002Fp09wmph6.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisMedium":"Sailboats pass over the shimmering Nile river (Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisShort":"Sailboats pass over the shimmering Nile","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmph6.jpg","title":"Sailboats pass over the shimmering Nile","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wmph6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmph6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"p09wmpm0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wmpm0","_id":"616ff54445ceed33da2fdabb","copyright":"Mai Farouk","fileSizeBytes":1171128,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fmp\u002Fp09wmpm0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisMedium":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture (Credit: Mai Farouk)","synopsisShort":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmpm0.jpg","title":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wmpm0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wmpm0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"p09whcp6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09whcp6","_id":"616ff55245ceed3bbb66e91b","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":1202580,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fhc\u002Fp09whcp6.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Rinpoche was one of Bhutan's youngest ever spiritual masters when he assumed the position in 2009 (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Rinpoche sitting outside","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whcp6.jpg","title":"Rinpoche was one of Bhutan's youngest ever spiritual masters when he assumed the position in 2009","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09whcp6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whcp6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"p09wh07c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09wh07c","_id":"616ff58a45ceed50e546ca28","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":1814316,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fh0\u002Fp09wh07c.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Rinpoche frequently visits his personal meditation cave in the forested hills behind the Sangchen Ogyen Tsuklag Monastery in Trongsa (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Rinpoche meditating near a cave","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wh07c.jpg","title":"Rinpoche frequently visits his personal meditation cave behind the Sangchen Ogyen Tsuklag Monastery in Trongsa","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09wh07c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09wh07c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"p09whcv7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09whcv7","_id":"616ff62645ceed1f7931b649","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":2309710,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fhc\u002Fp09whcv7.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Accepting that all things are impermanent is one of Rinpoche's pillars of happiness (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"A monk praying outside a temple","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whcv7.jpg","title":"Accepting that all things are impermanent is one of Rinpoche's pillars of happiness","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09whcv7","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whcv7.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"p09whd03":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09whd03","_id":"616ff54c45ceed36da5dd99e","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":1600446,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fhd\u002Fp09whd03.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"To find happiness, Rinpoche says we must accept that our actions have an impact on those around us (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Two monks walking over a suspension bridge","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whd03.jpg","title":"To find happiness, Rinpoche says we must accept that our actions have an impact on those around us","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09whd03","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whd03.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"p09whd6m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09whd6m","_id":"616ff59845ceed60c920b733","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":872727,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002Fhd\u002Fp09whd6m.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Bhutan may nationalise happiness, but it has its issues, just like everywhere else (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"A young monk looks through a window","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whd6m.jpg","title":"Bhutan may nationalise happiness, but it has its issues, just like everywhere else (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09whd6m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09whd6m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"p09w90zs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w90zs","_id":"616ff58e45ceed55d44ff8a5","copyright":"Randy Duchaine\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":660274,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F90\u002Fp09w90zs.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Randy Duchaine\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Most Chicagoans may not realise that it's still legal to ride a horse in the city (Credit: Randy Duchaine\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"A statue of a man on a horse in downtown Chicago","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w90zs.jpg","title":"Most Chicagoans may not realise that it's still legal to ride a horse in the city","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w90zs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w90zs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09w90v2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w90v2","_id":"616ff55345ceed3ed415d8be","copyright":"Amy Bizzarri","fileSizeBytes":720174,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F90\u002Fp09w90v2.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisMedium":"Located in Chicago Heights, Murdock's Broken Arrow Horseback Riding Club has become a second home for many inner-city kids (Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisShort":"Murdock at his Broken Arrow Horseback Riding Club","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w90v2.jpg","title":"Murdock's Broken Arrow Horseback Riding Club has become a second home for many inner-city kids","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w90v2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w90v2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09w912r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w912r","_id":"616ff53545ceed32170e6c7c","copyright":"Glasshouse Images\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":452849,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1277,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F91\u002Fp09w912r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Glasshouse Images\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Black cowboys were essential in helping to settle the western US (Credit: Glasshouse Images\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Historical photo of black cowboys in the US","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w912r.jpg","title":"Black cowboys were essential in helping to settle the western US","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w912r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w912r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09w91dk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w91dk","_id":"616ff54045ceed36e942dcf9","copyright":"Amy Bizzarri","fileSizeBytes":468285,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F91\u002Fp09w91dk.jpg","sourceWidth":1280,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisMedium":"Murdock's stable is beloved by Chicago's black cowboys, many of whom compete in local and national rodeos (Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisShort":"Two riders inside Murdock's stable","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91dk.jpg","title":"Murdock's stable is beloved by Chicago's black cowboys, many of whom compete in local and national rodeos","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w91dk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91dk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09w91hc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w91hc","_id":"616ff54045ceed36eb5d247a","copyright":"Amy Bizzarri","fileSizeBytes":348944,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F91\u002Fp09w91hc.jpg","sourceWidth":1080,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisMedium":"Taking care of horses is proven to have many positive effects on kids (Credit: Amy Bizzarri)","synopsisShort":"A young cowboy wearing a hat inside Murdock's stable","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91hc.jpg","title":"Taking care of horses is proven to have many positive effects on kids","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w91hc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91hc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09w91k0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09w91k0","_id":"616ff58d45ceed5a9e797d96","copyright":"Brigette Supernova\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":527096,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9w\u002F91\u002Fp09w91k0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brigette Supernova\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"In addition to offering inner-city kids an alternative to the street, Murdock hopes to honour Chicago's horse-riding legacy (Credit: Brigette Supernova\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"A black cowboy competes in a rodeo competition outside Chicago","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91k0.jpg","title":"n addition to offering inner-city kids an alternative to the street, Murdock hopes to honour Chicago's horse-riding legacy","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09w91k0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09w91k0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"616ff54045ceed36e942dcf8","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1604316,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3078,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9p\u002Fld\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","sourceWidth":5472,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"p09dxbd3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09dxbd3","_id":"616ff57245ceed49b30a1bb6","copyright":"SolStock\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":1538071,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9d\u002Fxb\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: SolStock\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Two young adults walking along Hadrian's Wall in the Northumberland, UK, countryside (Credit: SolStock\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Two young adults walking along Hadrian's Wall in the Northumberland, UK, countryside","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","title":"Two young adults walking along Hadrian's Wall in the Northumberland, UK, countryside","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09dxbd3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"p09gvtjv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09gvtjv","_id":"616ff52d45ceed23e5645ebd","copyright":"Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":2561182,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9g\u002Fvt\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Remote house and jetty with a boat in the Highlands of Scotland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","title":"Remote house and jetty with a boat in the Highlands of Scotland","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09gvtjv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive","_id":"616ff69645ceed48857848f8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"New Zealanders like to see themselves as practical, coping with anything thrown at them, with good life-skills and a co-operative “can-do” spirit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Evening everyone, thought I would jump online and just check in with everyone as we all prepare to hunker down for a few weeks,” said the New Zealand woman \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002Flive\u002F?v=147109069954329&ref=watch_permalink\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evia Facebook Live\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as the country prepared for its month-long Covid-19 shutdown. She pointed to her grubby sweatshirt. “It can be a messy business putting a toddler to bed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe wasn’t the only Kiwi mother checking in with their \u003Cem\u003Ewhānau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (family) that evening. But this woman was Jacinda Ardern, New Zealand’s prime minister, and the one who had decided – on expert advice – to “go hard and go early”, mandating one of the world’s earliest and toughest bans on international and internal travel and locking down her country for roughly a month from midnight on 25 March.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn three years, the 39-year-old has risen from a minor player in the low-polling opposition Labour Party to a global figure on Time magazine’s list of the world’s 100 most influential people. The New York Times \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2019\u002F03\u002F19\u002Fopinion\u002Fjacinda-ardern-new-zealand.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edescribed her\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as “the progressive antithesis to right-wing strongmen like Trump, Orban and Modi”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHer empathetic leadership after the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Ftopics\u002Fc966094wvmqt\u002Fchristchurch-mosque-shootings\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChristchurch mosques’ attack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in March 2019 was highlighted in images of a hijab-wearing Ardern embracing Muslim New Zealanders; consoling bereaved families after the Whakaari White Island eruption that December; and addressing the UN General Assembly while fiancé Clarke Gayford cuddled their four-month-old daughter Neve in September 2018. Her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-47630129\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecompassionate approach to politics\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – where “success is measured not only by the nation’s GDP but by better lives lived by its people” – has caused many to see New Zealand as a bastion of progressive government.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Pacific nation, soon to reach a population of five million, lays claim to a number of social and political advances: creating indigenous parliamentary seats (1857); granting women the vote (1893); advocating an eight-hour working day (1840); state-funded old-age pensions (1898); the world’s most extensive system of pensions and welfare (1938); and its unique no-fault accident compensation scheme (1974).   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1890 to 1920, New Zealand was regarded by foreign observers as a “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wgtn.ac.nz\u002Fsog\u002Fabout\u002Fevents\u002Fpast-events-archived\u002Fnew-zealand-as-a-social-laboratory2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esocial laboratory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” due to its progressive policy initiatives, and Ardern’s determination to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Fagenda\u002F2019\u002F05\u002Fnew-zealand-is-publishing-its-first-well-being-budget\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emeasure national progress in “wellbeing” targets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – raising income, improving environmental and social good – has been characterised as a return to that aspiration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut how did such a remote country come to have such apparently progressive politics? Stephen Levine, professor of political science at Victoria University of Wellington, writing in Te Ara, the nation’s official online encyclopaedia – another world first – says early British settlers and politicians were driven by notions of equality, fairness and honesty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In 1948, New Zealand’s first professor of political science, Leslie Lipson, wrote that if New Zealanders chose to erect a statue like the Statue of Liberty, embodying the nation’s political outlook, it would probably be a Statue of Equality,” he writes. “This reflected New Zealanders’ view that equality (rather than freedom) was the most important political value and the most compelling goal for the society to strive for and protect.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other British colonies, the islands were not conquered, but founded on a treaty between Māori and the Crown: the 1840 Te Tiriti o Waitangi \u002F Treaty of Waitangi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s not a constitution (New Zealand doesn’t have a written document); rather, it was an arrangement to ensure the safety of settlers and, many would say, a fig leaf to lay claim to land and resources for Pākehā – the term for non-Māori, English-speaking arrivals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOverwhelming the indigenous people and their culture, often at gunpoint, merchants, farmers and tradespeople (mostly from the United Kingdom) imported their view of politics and government and their chance for new lives free from Europe’s conflicts and prejudices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECrucially, they felt entitled to self-government and that everyone should be equal under the law in their proposed fair, equal and honest society. They also rejected having an official church; today New Zealand is one of the world’s most secular societies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unexpected philosophy Icelanders live by\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200506-wheres-san-franciscos-spirit-of-tolerance-came-from\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere San Francisco's spirit of tolerance came from\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191027-the-word-that-encapsulates-frenchness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe word that encapsulates Frenchness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese early settlers were faced with remote mountains and valleys, into which they began carving farms. It was quickly apparent that they would need to create or repair machines from whatever scrap was lying around. This skill has become part of the national psyche, known as “the No8 wire mentality” after isolated farmers’ ability to use a length of fence wire to fix any misbehaving machine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEgalitarianism bred another national characteristic. New Zealanders prize modesty, and are suspicious of anyone who seems to consider themselves better than others; hence what is called “Tall Poppy Syndrome”: chopping down someone who thinks they are a cut above the crowd. In typical Kiwi black humour, the unofficial national anthem celebrates complacency: John Clarke’s We Don’t Know How Lucky We Are.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo this day, New Zealanders like to see themselves as practical, coping with anything thrown at them, with good life skills and a cooperative “can-do” spirit. New Zealand, Levine writes, is not a large or powerful country but has an “attractive self-image” of inspiring others, leading by example, idealism and pragmatic innovation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat positive outlook sees New Zealand ranked as the eighth-most-happy country in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fworldhappiness.report\u002Fed\u002F2019\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 UN World Happiness Report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the seventh year in a row, the only nation outside Europe in the top 10.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the same survey, Wellington was ranked as the third-happiest city. Auckland and Christchurch are in the top 20, despite Christchurch’s decade of devastating earthquakes and the attack that took 51 lives last year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EReaders of Britain’s Telegraph have named it their favourite country seven years in a row; and after  Donald Trump’s 2016 election, US migration inquiries to New Zealand immediately rose 24-fold, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002F2016\u002Fnov\u002F10\u002Fmove-to-new-zealand-us-migration-inquiries-rise-24-fold-after-election-day\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETravellers are lured here by a world of constantly changing scenery packed into a comparatively small space: primordial forest; lakes; waterfalls; fiords; active volcanoes; hot-water springs; geysers; white- and black-sand beaches; alps and glaciers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd they often return home noting the warmth and sincerity of the laidback Kiwi welcome and the local respect for Māori culture – \u003Cem\u003Etikanga Māori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a living, breathing and inclusive force that’s part of the fabric of New Zealand society, not turned on for tourists or a rugby test warmup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this remote nation is not as perfect as it seems. The treaty partnership and prominence of te reo Māori (one of New Zealand's three official languages, alongside English and signing) indicate little racial tension. However, racism does exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Massey University sociologist Dr Paul Spoonley, when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rnz.co.nz\u002Fnational\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fmediawatch\u002Faudio\u002F2018640394\u002Ftaika-s-blurt-makes-media-mad-as-f\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einterviewed for Radio New Zealand\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018, “Our race relations when seen globally are not too bad. We don't have hate crimes to the extent that you would find in European countries,” he said. “But we do have everyday and often casual racism around the country and you’d be naive if you don’t think it's there.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESocial and racial stresses arose from widely differing interpretations of the treaty, which led to 135 years of conflict and grievance until the document was enshrined in law in 1975 and a truth and reconciliation commission formed. Today, the nation has shamefully unequal rates of Māori health, educational and judicial outcomes, and youth suicide statistics are tragically high.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause of this disparity, many contemporary local commenters view the country’s progressive label with scepticism. They suggest many advances didn’t happen because of a conscious desire to bring forth change, but because of the nation’s values of fairness and equality – society simply thought they were the fair or decent thing to do at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you look at the right of women to vote, in the 1890s, no-one was saying, ‘We want to be the first…’,” said Professor Paul Moon, respected historian and social commentator. “The concern was, ‘This is an important right because it will enfranchise women or be more representative, more democratic and so on’. ”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMoon explained that these notions of equality and fairness continued until the 1970s and ‘80s. “I think there are some people who still hold to that – it lasted a very long time and that’s the base-level of the notion of New Zealand identity,” Moon said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the multicultural nation continues to pass socially progressive laws – marriage equality, decriminalising prostitution, treating abortion as a health not criminal issue – Moon senses a change in motivation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Now a lot of the rhetoric goes, ‘Well, if we do this, we’ll be a world leader’. That has overtaken the importance of the progressive initiative in a lot of cases.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAotearoa, to use New Zealand's Māori name, is not Utopia. The national response to the coronavirus pandemic, however, so far appears to lead the world. On 28 April, after five weeks of that severe lockdown, Ardern eased the restrictions slightly, announcing that her country had “done what few countries have been able to do” and contained the community spread of Covid-19. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-52344299\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal attention once again turned to the nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: while there was some criticism over how the government reacted, others said New Zealand offered a model response of empathy, clarity and trust in science.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd, perhaps invoking those earlier ideals of fairness and equality, the prime minister and ministers have taken a 20% pay cut for six months in solidarity with those whose income has been affected by coronavirus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If there were ever a time to close the gap between groups of people across New Zealand in different positions, it is now,” Ardern said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003Cem\u003EA previous version of this story had the incorrect start date of New Zealand's nationwide lockdown. That information has been updated.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-19T21:07:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why is New Zealand so progressive?","headlineShort":"Why is New Zealand so progressive?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"New Zealanders like to see themselves as practical, coping with anything thrown at them, with good life-skills and a co-operative “can-do” spirit.","summaryShort":"The nation's ideals of equality and fairness persists to this day","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-05-18T20:12:36.210006Z","entity":"article","guid":"5a1eced1-e917-4dca-9a7c-8cf11fb21180","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:44:33.626638Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest","_id":"616ff69345ceed50132a3743","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Te Urewera, one of the country’s most isolated rainforests, was the world’s first natural resource to be granted the same rights as a legal person.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Jacqui Gibson\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA forlorn scrap of white mist hovered in the bush flanking the only road into Te Urewera, one of the most isolated rainforests in New Zealand. It was a sign I was in Tūhoe country, the tribal region whose people were named “Children of the Mist” by ethnographer Elsdon Best in the 1890s due to an ancient oral tradition linking Tūhoe to Hine-pūkohu-rangi, the mist maiden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside my window, views of pasture and rundown farmhouses gave way to dense emerald forest and waterfalls gushing from cliffs cloaked in cloud and shadow. Turning a bend in the road, two stocky ponies with unkempt forelocks appeared on the dusty verge in front of me. Slowing down, I scanned the bush for \u003Cem\u003Ekererū\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the native wood pigeon long associated with this fertile landscape, and instead locked eyes with a lone palomino chewing on ferns as the asphalt road turned to earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETe Urewera is the largest rainforest of New Zealand’s North Island, spanning 2,127 sq km of rugged hill country, vast blue-green lakes and fast-running, north-flowing rivers. In 2014, a world-first law brought an end to government ownership of Te Urewera National Park and recognised the rainforest as its own legal entity and the Tūhoe people as its legal guardians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Tūhoe – who number approximately 40,000, with around 7,000 living in Te Urewera’s river valleys and bush clearings – are legally responsible for the rainforest’s care. They protect the precious site through an ancient Maori practice known as \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which can roughly be translated to mean “guardianship” and is a way of managing the environment based on a Māori worldview.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200525-why-first-nations-communities-are-uninviting-visitors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy First Nations are uninviting visitors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten indigenous people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is New Zealand so progressive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKaitiakitanga involves understanding the close connection between people and nature, seeing humans as part of the natural world and protecting the \u003Cem\u003Emauri,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or life force, of the forests, rivers and lakes under their care. On a day-to-day level, it includes monitoring the health of the forest, lakes and rivers through observation and data collection, native tree planting, controlling pests such as possums and deer and maintaining the health of important fish stocks such as river tuna (Māori for eels).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETribal leader Tamati Kruger told me that increasing numbers of people are coming to Te Urewera to hunt, fish and hike around its most popular lake, Lake Waikaremoana. Although the Tūhoe welcome visitors, the challenge, he said, is to manage tourist numbers and the impact of tourism on the environment, while taking over the care of the former national park after nearly 70 years of government management.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“For many visitors to Te Urewera, a national park system is all they know,” Kruger said. “They have this idea that you save up for a holiday in a beautiful part of the world, you go there, pay for a service such as access to a night in a clean, dry hut, and then you return home and plan your next trip to the next destination. For many people, that’s the extent of their experience of travelling in nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’re asking people to completely change that approach. Instead of seeing nature as a set of discrete resources to be managed and used, we’re asking people to see Te Urewera as a living system that others depend on for survival, culture, recreation and inspiration. It’s about relating to Te Urewera as its own identity in a physical, environmental, cultural and spiritual sense.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For many visitors to Te Urewera, a national park system is all they know","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiaki \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(guardians), this is how the Tūhoe have always experienced Te Urewera, Kruger said, and that visitors need to be prepared to do things differently here. “Maybe it’s not about getting the best photo of yourself near a waterfall or the ultimate deal on a hunting trip. Maybe it’s about meeting the locals, staying with us, learning some of our history and hearing some of the stories and values that make up our lifestyle.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith Te Urewera now reopened to domestic travellers post-lockdown, tourism guides throughout the rainforest increasingly offer an opportunity to do just that. In Tāneatua, at the Tūhoe’s tribal headquarters located at the northern entrance of Te Urewera, visitors can take a self-guided walking tour of the site for an overview of the tribe’s history, culture and an introduction to its environmental approach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWithin the rainforest itself, staying on \u003Cem\u003Emarae\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Māori meeting grounds) and experiencing a traditional settling-in ceremony, or taking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.teureweratreks.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea bush walk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with Tūhoe guides who understand local \u003Cem\u003Etīkanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (protocols) are other ways outsiders can immerse themselves in Tūhoe culture and learn how to relate to Te Urewera in a different way. More options include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpg\u002FBlackHouseUwhiarae\u002Fabout\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehoney tasting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpg\u002FBlackHouseUwhiarae\u002Fabout\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehome-cooked dining experiences\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ahureiadventures.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehunting and horse riding adventures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd while with New Zealand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-52961539\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edeclaring the country to be coronavirus-free\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tourism providers are hoping the country’s borders will open to international travellers from “safe travel zone” countries such as Australia as soon as September.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI got to experience a bit of \u003Cem\u003ETūhoetanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (culture) for myself prior to lockdown."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETe Urewera is divided into distinct tribal areas, or \u003Cem\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Erohe\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E; each \u003Cspan\u003Erohe\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E has its own information, tours and services\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EVisit a Tūhoe information hub at Taneatua, Waikaremoana or Ruatahuna to find out where to go and why in each rohe\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EHike, fish, hunt, go horse-riding or take a food tour with a local Tūhoe guide who can tell you about Te Urewera and the local culture\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAsk your guide to tell you the ‘real’ story of how Te Urewera got its name\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tips for visiting","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"In Ngāputahi, a small village about an hour’s drive from Tāneatua, I was introduced to a traditional welcome ceremony with Tūhoe guide Hinewai McManus, who performed a \u003Cem\u003Emihi whakatau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a ritual designed to transition newcomers from the everyday world into the spiritual world of the rainforest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003EKia ora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (hello) and welcome to Te Urewera,” she said when I pulled into the carpark. Today, McManus explained, two trees would play a role in the ceremony: a Californian pine planted by her grandmother would represent me as \u003Cem\u003Emanuhiri \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(visitor), while a native \u003Cem\u003Ekanuka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (found throughout Te Urewera) would embody Hinewai’s ancestors as \u003Cem\u003Etangata whenua\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the people of the land).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the ceremony unfolded, I walked slowly from one tree to the other, guided by McManus as she spoke and sang quietly in te reo Māori, her native tongue (and one of New Zealand’s three official languages; the others being English and New Zealand Sign Language).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The [mihi] whakatau is a less-formal Māori welcome,” she told me. “It’s a way of introducing you to this place – all of you, your physical, psychic and spiritual self.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMcManus told me that I’m one of few New Zealanders who come to Te Urewera to understand the tribe’s culture and relationship with nature. More common are visitors from Europe (Germany and the Netherlands, particularly), China and the United States – travellers keen to tap indigenous knowledge for inspiration on how to live in a world straining under mounting environmental pressure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo teach me more about the role of guardians, McManus led a guided tree planting and kaitiakitanga experience called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.teureweratreks.co.nz\u002Fte-urewera-tree-planting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETāne Mahuta – God of the Forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she recounted the Māori creation story that framed the experience, explaining Tāne Mahuta, son of Ranginui (sky father) and Papatūanuku (earth mother), was the father of all the birds and trees of the forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn our tree-planting prayer, we addressed Tāne Mahuta for guidance on what tree species to plant where. In the end, we translocated two \u003Cem\u003Ehohoeka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (lancewood) saplings from a cramped, tangle of undergrowth in the bush to an open, sunlit area on the riverbank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur two saplings, said McManus, added to the rising tally of more than 12,000 trees planted or translocated since the Te Urewera Rainforest Restoration Project began in 2008. “It’s about growing the global oxygen supply, offsetting carbon miles and boosting the habitat and food available to our native birds. But people are drawn to the spiritual side of things too. They want to know why my tribe feels so much respect for the environment. Is it just because we live here or is there something more to it?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBrenda Tahi, Tūhoe guide and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.manawahoney.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManawa Honey Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is sure there’s more to it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We respect the environment because of our \u003Cem\u003Etīpuna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ancestors) and the knowledge about sustainability and living alongside nature handed down to us,” she told me at her family home in Ruātahuna on the western edge of Te Urewera. “But we also respect nature because we want to live amongst it and it needs our help right now.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe explained her family business is a case in point. The company produces native tree honey from 1,000 hives located throughout Te Urewera, drawing on a nearly 200-year-old tribal tradition of wild honey-gathering known as \u003Cem\u003Ete nanao miere.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Honey became a revered food for our people when the honeybee was introduced to New Zealand in the 1830s. Our ancestors harvested it quite differently though, climbing high up into trees, using buckets. Keeping bees is integral to our commitment to maintaining our indigenous ecosystems in Te Urewera,” she said. “They help pollinate so many of our plant species. But farming honey is also about economic self-reliance and giving our people a reason to stay or return to Te Urewera.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETrekking Te Urewera’s steep ravines on horseback with Tahi’s son and tour guide, Maaka Tamaki, and beekeeper Nick Mitai, I was invited to clamber into a protective suit and check out Manawa hives first-hand. Later, we picnicked by the river, visited a historical marae and that night set up camp by the river under the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These things are all part of falling in love with this place. They’re the things that keep you coming back for more.”","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EServing me a hot lime and honey tea after dinner, Tahi explained that she designed Manawa Honey Tours to help visitors bond with the place as they might bond with a new friend. She wants to wow visitors with the rainforest’s beauty. She wants them to delight in hearing the rush of the river and breathing in the rainforest’s fresh, clean air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There’s nothing like the silky feel of river water on your skin after a long day hiking or the taste of our bush \u003Cem\u003Ekai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (food) – be it a simple pork boil up or flash compote of orchard plums and \u003Cem\u003Etawhero\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bush) honey,” she told me. “To me, these things are all part of falling in love with this place. They’re the things that keep you coming back for more.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKruger agrees, believing this approach has the added benefit of strengthening people’s experience of Te Urewera: “It will move you beyond a way of thinking that says: ‘I’ve paid my fee, I want a service’, to a mindset that says: ‘I love this place, I feel a connection to it. Now, what can I do to care for it?’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-09T20:48:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Māori tribe protecting New Zealand’s sacred rainforest","headlineShort":"An ancient way to save the Earth","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Te Urewera, one of the country’s most isolated rainforests, was the world’s first natural resource to be granted the same rights as a legal person.","summaryShort":"Kaitiakitanga is an ancient Maori practice of “guardianship”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-06-08T19:49:13.249337Z","entity":"article","guid":"982e25ed-1656-46b8-aaa9-8f5e843d9df3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T03:48:20.49356Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world","_id":"616ff65f45ceed27637d6fb9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Coveted by Russian royalty, the jewel-studded Amber Room disappeared during World War Two. But two clues gave it new life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELuminous and fragile, amber has long inspired reverence. Protected by Prussian law starting in the 13th Century, the fossilised resin was a sought-after substance for crafting royal and religious objects throughout Eastern Europe. The Amber Room, a series of panels crafted from six tonnes of amber mounted on gold-leaf walls and adorned with mosaics and mirrors, was a paean to the material’s beauty and status.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDesigned for royalty in Prussia and Russia, lost to war in Germany and eventually reborn in a St Petersburg palace, the room remains a mystery as captivating as amber itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Amber Room was originally designed in the early 18th Century as an opulent 16sq m showpiece chamber for Frederick I, the King of Prussia. In 1716, the chamber was gifted to the Russian Tsar Peter the Great, and it was eventually was moved to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.visit-petersburg.ru\u002Fen\u002Fshowplace\u002F196857\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECatherine Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near St Petersburg. To match the spacious rooms of the palace, Italian architect Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli was called upon to expand the room. Under his guidance, the original panels were incorporated into a 55sq m room decorated with more amber, candelabras, mosaics and gilded figures. The Russian Baroque marvel became known as the \"eighth wonder of the world\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Nazis invaded Russia in 1941, they dismantled the Amber Room and moved it to Königsberg castle in what was the German state of Prussia. According to Anatoly Valuev of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwestrussia.org\u002Fenglish\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaliningrad History and Arts Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Königsberg was a \"transfer base for [looted] cultural objects, which would be stored in the city for the further transportation to other parts of Germany\". But when the Red Army seized the city in 1945, no traces of the Amber Room were found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Russian town built by apples\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200803-russias-beloved-healing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia's beloved healing ritual\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200625-the-ussrs-secret-siberian-democracy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe USSR's secret Siberian democracy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome thought the room might have been destroyed by fire. \"But no traces of burning amber were found,\" said Valuev. \"And it was assumed that the room survived after all, and it was hidden in the castle's basement or it was taken somewhere else.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe search for the fabled Amber Room continued. In 1946, Koningsberg became part of Russia and was renamed Kaliningrad. Two major investigations yielded no sign of the room. Soviet specialists continued to explore hundreds of locations around the city and in the ruins of the town's castle. In the 2000s, teams with more advanced equipment continued the search and found artworks and jewellery in a hidden part of the castle's basement. But still no Amber Room. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven if the Amber Room were found, said Tatyana Suvorova of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ambermuseum.ru\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaliningrad Regional Amber Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it would likely be a shadow of its former self. \"Amber is a complex material; it is quite fragile, and it changes over time,\" she said, adding that if the chamber was to be rediscovered, \"This would be the greatest happiness, [but] it would be a fact of history not a work of art. Because such artworks made of a fragile material require very delicate handling – they require a museum environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs hope faded that the Amber Room would be found, a new idea emerged. In 1979, the former USSR began reconstructing the room guided by two remaining original items: a single box of relics from the room; and 86 black-and-white photos of the space taken just before World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reconstruction took 23 years, but today the recreated Amber Room is on display at Catherine Palace in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tzar.ru\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETsarskoye Selo State Museum and Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in St Petersburg. With walls glowing orange and gold, this new Amber Room brings the ancient allure of fossilised resin to life once more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video by \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIrina Sedunova; text by Christine Sarkis)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fhidden-histories\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Reel’s Hidden Histories\u003C\u002Fa\u003E playlist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-07T21:11:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Russia's \"eighth wonder of the world\"","headlineShort":"The Amber Room stolen by Nazis","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Coveted by Russian royalty, the jewel-studded Amber Room disappeared during World War Two. But two clues gave it new life.","summaryShort":"It became known as the \"eighth wonder of the world\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-05-06T21:13:29.784569Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1f9cf20-4f97-4a47-860c-6dfedf44a5f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:07:35.362747Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","_id":"6175df4b45ceed483e245095","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdani-wright"],"bodyIntro":"Although New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces were destroyed in a volcanic eruption in 1886, travellers can still explore this bubbling, boiling landscape today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce known as \"the eighth Wonder of the World\", the Pink and White Terraces that cascaded down a hillside in New Zealand's geothermal Rotorua region would have been a spectacular sight to behold. Created by geothermal waters flowing from the Earth's core that crystallised over hundreds of years, the silica terraces formed tumbling pools, staircases and waterfalls that were filled with warm, mineral-rich waters and steeped in historical and cultural significance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore the eruption that destroyed them in the late 19th Century, these natural wonders were New Zealand's most famous tourist attraction, luring wealthy travellers from around the world to bathe in the salmon-pink waters of the Te Otukapuarangi (Pink) Terraces (\"The fountain of the clouded sky\" in Māori); and visit the Te Tarata (White) Terraces (also known as \"the tattooed rock\" due to the patterns created by the crystallised silica), which covered seven acres and descended 30m into Lake Rotomahana.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeople were also drawn by the tantalising health benefits of the world's youngest geothermal valley's healing waters, famed to aid arthritis, rheumatics, eczema and other debilitating skin conditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wouldn't have been an easy trip to get there – intrepid travellers had to undergo a 75-day sea voyage from Britain to New Zealand, followed by a 200km steam train trip from Auckland to Tauranga and a horse-drawn carriage ride to Lake Rotomahana via Rotorua.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut these enormous silica terraces would have been a truly impressive sight for these adventurous tourists, who admired the tiers of basins, gazed in awe at the boiling geysers and climbed up the hillsides to have their photos taken and pictures painted for posterity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey were welcomed by the women of Rotorua's Tūhourangi tribe of Te Arawa Māori, who have occupied this volcanic valley since 1325 and who guided the international visitors by \u003Cem\u003Ewaka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (canoe) to the terraces. This was the birthplace of international tourism in New Zealand, and these Māori were New Zealand's first tour guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wg23h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Steaming hot spring at Champagne Pool, Rotorua","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe original female tourism guides won the hearts of visitors with their grace, intelligence and warm hospitality. One guide, Sophia Hinerangi-Gray, also known as Guide Sophia, became the most famous woman in Rotorua and established a reputation not only as the principal guide to the Pink and White Terraces, but also as an educated philosopher and trusted friend to thousands of tourists. She was a role model in her community and encouraged local women to also become financially independent through their work as guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe Sophia and all our tribal guides, who were all women, are to be admired,\" said Karen Walmsley, head guide at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.totallytarawera.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETotally Tarawera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a family-owned Tūhourangi business in the greater Rotorua region. Guide Sophia was not only her role model, but her \u003Cem\u003Ekuia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ancestral grandmother). \"These wonderful Māori women managed their \u003Cem\u003Ewhanau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (family), work and tribal commitments with grace and were known for their organisational and entrepreneurial skills, their tenacity and for hosting with care people of many different cultures from all over the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient way to save the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is New Zealand so progressive?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia's 'eighth wonder of the world'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDavid Blackmore, general manager at eco-tourism provider \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu Volcanic Valley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which covers the region where the Pink and White Terraces were located, agrees: \"The early tour guides were innovative, ground-breaking, hospitable, entrepreneurial and hard working. Visitors coming to the Tarawera\u002FRotorua area were New Zealand's first tourists, so they really led the way.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe guides had a strong spiritual connection to the land and a deep desire to look after it. Blackmore's team of local Te Awara guides still abides by three values that he says were very apparent in the early tourism efforts of guides such as Sophia. These are \u003Cem\u003Emanaakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (welcoming, sharing valued time together), \u003Cem\u003Ewhanaungatanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (respect for each other and openness) and \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (looking after this special place in the world).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Although it was a natural phenomenon and designated the eighth Wonder of the World, that's not how our people saw it – we knew nothing about other countries at that time and our concerns were about taking care of the land,\" said Walmsley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the openness to invite others in and the responsibility to care for the land were sometimes at odds. In 1886, on a guiding tour to the Terraces, Guide Sophia witnessed a dire premonition of impending tragedy when she saw the water level in the lake dip sharply and then rise again. Historical records make note of her hearing an \"eerie whimpering sound\" shortly afterwards.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wg1xl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Picture of Mount Tarawera erupting in 1886","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the story goes, she then noticed a phantom canoe with a sole paddler. As the canoe came closer, she saw it had a crew of 13, each with a dog's head. These visions were seen as an omen and warning; a foreboding sign that ancestors were unhappy at the exploitation of their culture and healing powers of the land for monetary gain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Although the terraces are now gone, travellers can still explore this geologically fascinating landscape, often guided by descendants of the original Te Arawa tour guides","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, on 10 June 1886, the so-called eighth Wonder of the World was destroyed when a volcanic eruption at Mount Tarawera shook the lands, and Te Wairoa, the village founded in 1848 to service tourists, was buried under choking layers of scoria, ash and mud. More than 150 people lost their lives and the terraces were swallowed by a 100m-deep crater caused by the blast, which later filled to form a new Lake Rotomahana, 10 times larger and deeper than the old lake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the terraces are now gone, travellers can still explore this geologically fascinating landscape, often guided by descendants of the original Te Arawa tour guides, such as Warmsley, who are continuing this legacy of hospitality and sharing of culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHalfway between Rotorua and Waimangu Volcanic Valley, is Te Wairoa, now known as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.buriedvillage.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EBuried Village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, whose archaeological sites have been excavated to the original floor levels and show the depth of mud and volcanic ash that ejected upon the village, and visitors can hear personal accounts of the eruption on a guided tour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu Volcanic Valley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, travellers can retrace the journey Guide Sophia took through the geothermal valley and follow in the footsteps of the first tourists, uncovering the stories of the Pink and White Terraces and the Tarawera eruption, and seeing the geothermal attractions and stunning crater lakes uncovered by the blast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechnology is also bringing the Pink and White Terraces back to life through the augmented reality \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002Fplan\u002Fapp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was launched in December 2018. Using a slider feature that compares the present-day views to how the scenery looked back in the 1800s, travellers can experience the size, scale and beauty of the natural wonder for themselves while immersed in the real-life bubbling, boiling landscape sights and smells.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wg1tw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View towards Lake Rotomahana, Waimangu Valley Volcanic Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For New Zealanders, almost all of us learnt about the famous Pink and White Terraces at school,\" said Blackmore. \"The fact you can now revisit and see and touch and smell and feel the area makes the augmented reality experience very compelling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalmsley offers guests her own, personal insights into this geothermal wonderland, honouring the traditions of her ancestors by demonstrating how to use the hot sand and naturally boiling water to cook. She tells guests about the healing waters, which are still attracting tourists to soak in natural hot pools in the bush around Mount Tarawera, where the Tūhourangi people have lived for many generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The geothermal waters still help ease ailments and leaves skin soft,\" said Walmsley. \"In Guide Sophia's time, our people allowed visitors to come as long as they were under our guidance – we knew the geothermal waters were dangerous if care was not taken, and we're still helping to guide them today in the same way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as Blackmore says, you don't even need to bathe in the water to feel the healing powers: \"People who visit the spot where the Terraces were always tell us the same thing. They tell us they feel something very special here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Ftravel-journeys"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:33:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The birthplace of New Zealand tourism","headlineShort":"A new look at the eighth World Wonder","image":["p09wg29p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Old photograph of the Pink and White Terraces in New Zealand","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.2678","longitude":"176.4339","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Old photograph of the Pink and White Terraces in New Zealand","promoImage":["p09wg29p"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces were destroyed in a volcanic eruption in 1886, travellers can still explore this bubbling, boiling landscape today.","summaryShort":"New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces lured travellers from across the globe","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:33:39.818116Z","entity":"article","guid":"1d5fe172-ba00-4f7b-92eb-3fcd779af27b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-25T22:27:12.913389Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnew-zealand","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_new-zealand_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","_id":"616ff65f45ceed394812dcf3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"China's biang biang noodles are taking the world by storm – yet the dish's name doesn't officially exist.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA rhythmic thumping sound echoed through the restaurant-lined street in north-west China, emanating from multiple directions, their cadences briefly falling into sync before disbanding once again. I reflexively turned my head in the direction of the nearest thud to see a chef working in front of his shop, swinging a hefty rope of dough between his hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The noodles were as wide as a belt","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe raised the strand and, firmly, deftly, slapped it repeatedly against the countertop, each dexterous motion coinciding with a resounding thwack. As he continued slamming it, the dough stretched and elongated to the length of his wingspan. Pinching the centre of the strand, he then split the dough down the middle to form a loop, before tossing it nimbly into a waiting pot of bubbling water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECuriosity piqued by this display, I approached the chef to request a serving and, minutes later, tucked into a bowl of thick noodles drenched in hot chilli oil and vinegar and sprinkled with spring onions and garlic. The noodles were as wide as a belt and nearly as long as one too, their firm texture offering a satisfyingly substantial bite. The slapping technique, as it turns out, generates a chewy consistency that absorbs the rich flavours of the seasonings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHere in Xi'an, the capital of China's Shaanxi province and one of the country's oldest cities, the craft of noodle-pulling is so intertwined with that slapping sound that the distinctive noise ended up inspiring this dish's curious name: \u003Cem\u003Ebiang biang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \"biang\" character is onomatopoeic, meant to mimic the sound of dough hitting a counter. It is also more complex to write than any character in the Chinese language, with a whopping 58 strokes (though, depending on whom you ask, this number may vary slightly). Given how much thought must go into writing it, I was surprised to discover that the character doesn't actually exist – at least, not according to official dictionaries. That's because the character is entirely a folk creation. Upon closer inspection of the symbol, I realised that it is also comprised of many distinct elements that, together, paint a picture of Xi'an's rich history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHiding in this intricate biang diagram, for example, is the Chinese character for silk. Xi'an was the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, the vast ancient network of East-West trade routes that facilitated the exchange of goods, ideas and technologies for centuries. Along those roads, horses not only provided a primary means of transport, but were traded as a commodity. It makes sense, then, that the biang character additionally contains the symbol for horse and appears to pay homage to these animals' important historical role in the region. On either side of the horse symbol, the Chinese character meaning \"long\" or \"length\" also appears; whether interpreted as a reference to the Silk Road or to the noodles, both would seem appropriate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's unclear exactly how the complex biang character originated, but its creation is steeped in legend. One widely told story credits it to a young scholar from the Qin Dynasty (221-207 BC) who didn't have enough money for his bowl of biang biang noodles and offered to invent a character in lieu of payment. Today, there are amusing poems and riddles people can recite to help recall of the complicated character's numerous strokes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210201-langkawi-the-curious-island-of-the-strange-colugos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow kimchi rekindled a decades-long feud\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171115-hong-kongs-rare-noodles-made-by-seesaw\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's rare noodles made by seesaw\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"[They're] kind of a mnemonic of how to write it,\" explained Jason Wang, whose family originates from Xi'an and owns the New York City restaurant chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.xianfoods.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Famous Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But [the riddles are] also just quirky. It's just for fun. I think people in Shaanxi have a good sense of humour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe mystery of the character, coupled with the shape of the noodle – whose sheer girth sets it apart from the predominantly thinner noodle varieties in China – has given biang biang a permanent place among Shaanxi province's so-called \"Eight Curiosities\", as Wang refers to them. These are regional penchants and customs that have historically been commonplace among Shaanxi residents, but may have been puzzling to outsiders. Among them is the practice of building houses with half a roof, the habit of squatting on top of stools and a tradition of eating noodles as wide as belts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's kind of like this self-mockery, but in a positive way. And that's just part of the culture,\" said Wang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2005, Wang's father, David Shi, began cooking this culinary \"curiosity\" at what was then a small bubble-tea shop in New York City. His food items, rather than the drinks, began to steadily amass a loyal following. Over the years, Wang and Shi grew their little eatery into what is now an eight-restaurant empire across the city, specialising in dishes from their hometown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's a lot of pride in our traditions and in our heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There's a lot of pride in our traditions and in our heritage,\" said Wang. Over the years, their restaurants have not only attracted fellow immigrants from north-west China, but also more and more diverse patrons. \"The food is not just for people who know it. It's for people who want to know it and want to try it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, restaurants like Xi'an Famous Foods that specialise in regional dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eliangpi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“cold-skin” noodles), spicy cumin lamb burgers and – of course – biang biang noodles are giving international diners an increasingly nuanced and sophisticated understanding of Chinese food. While many Chinese restaurants overseas serve familiar Cantonese favourites like dim sum or Shanghai-style dishes like braised pork belly and \u003Cem\u003Exiaolongbao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (soup dumplings), Shaanxi is one region whose flavours have not seen as much global representation. In fact, for many diners who have never set foot in China, Xi'an Famous Foods may be their first taste of Shaanxi cuisine, which is known for its potent and complex aromas, partly influenced by the sour, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espicy food of Sichuan province\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the south-west and the salty cuisine of the neighbouring Shanxi province to the north-east – as well as its wide array of noodles and lamb and mutton dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWang believes that increased tourism (before the pandemic) and an expanding Chinese diaspora has generated a burgeoning international interest in China's diverse regional cooking styles. Travellers enjoy certain dishes in China and want to experience them in their home countries; simultaneously Chinese students and immigrants move abroad and search for the flavours of their hometown. The result has been a growing awareness about the multifarious regional differences in Chinese cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is a growing awareness about the multifarious regional differences in Chinese cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sichuan cuisine has become a lot more popular,\" said Sarah Leung, who lives in New York and has recreated many regional recipes for her family’s Chinese food blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthewoksoflife.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Woks of Life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In recent years, restaurant chains like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.malubianbianhouston.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalubianbian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haidilao.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaidilao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have brought the famously numbing spiciness of Sichuan-style hot pot to hundreds of locations across the globe. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwap.shimiaodao.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShimiaodao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another well-known establishment, serves Yunnan Province's \"crossing-the-bridge\" noodle dish at locations in North America, introducing the flavours of that Chinese region to diners overseas. \"It was interesting to see that [development], to see a wider swath of people becoming aware of these foods,\" said Leung.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow, biang biang noodles may be serving as a similar entry point for international eaters to discover the gastronomic specialties of north-west China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother chef spreading Shaanxi-style cuisine is Chao Zhang, owner of London's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.xianimpression.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Impression\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and its sister restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fxianbiangbiangnoodles.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Biang Biang Noodles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"People now are getting more globalised than before,\" he told me. After moving to London for school, Zhang wound up opening his own restaurant in the capital. \"I felt really, really homesick for the food,\" he recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn past centuries, Shaanxi's biang biang noodles were little more than a humble local dish, mostly consumed by time-strapped workers who didn't have occasion to artfully pull thin noodles. Compared to other noodle varieties from north-west China, biang biang were less known outside of Xi'an. But they were a comforting and beloved staple among locals, for whom the backstory and written character were common knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As a Xi'anese, you will talk about [biang biang] all the time when you're a kid, and your grandma will tell you stories about it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"As a Xi'anese, you will talk about [biang biang] all the time when you're a kid, and your grandma will tell you stories about it,\" said Ruixi Hu, who founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flostplate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost Plate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a tour company that organises food excursions around Xi'an. \"You know how to write the character from the beginning.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, biang biang noodles and its associated folklore have become more widely known across China, driven in part by social media interest in the made-up biang character. \"Internet really helps [with] getting more and more publicity for interesting things, interesting cuisines,\" Hu said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, the dish is traversing land and sea from its humble beginnings to reach the hearts and mouths of diners the world over – a breakthrough that, for many, has been as unexpected as it has been delightful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"My hometown food brought to the UK – that's my dream, actually,\" said Zhang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECommitted to recreating the dish the way he grew up with it, Zhang explains that biang biang noodles can never be made in advance, and shortcuts aren't an option. \"This is the only noodle [from Shaanxi] that is still handmade,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The act of pulling these noodles by hand is, after all, a craft that requires practiced skill","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWang seconds this. \"It's freshly made, it has to be freshly made,\" he said. \"We're not far enough in tech right now for robots to make this stuff yet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe act of pulling these noodles by hand is, after all, a craft that requires practiced skill – something that the noodle shop cooks in Xi'an who, shaping their dough outside in the open air, continually remind passersby. As they demonstrate the artistry of the age-old technique, the repetitive \"biang\" sound readily cuts through the aural hubbub of busy pedestrian avenues. It's the constant through-line of the urban symphony, its command over pedestrians' senses second only to the piquant scent of chilli oil in the air, summoning hungry diners from far and wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-14T22:13:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Chinese noodle dish whose name doesn't exist","headlineShort":"The noodle taking the world by storm","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"China's biang biang noodles are taking the world by storm – yet the dish's name doesn't officially exist.","summaryShort":"Its name doesn't officially exist, yet it represents the region's rich history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-04-13T22:43:47.344204Z","entity":"article","guid":"b14bbce3-7455-41f4-b077-bd3e04fe3d16","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:06:28.170909Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall","_id":"616ff65045ceed331132be33","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While a remote part of the Great Wall may soon attract more visitors, it remains a striking reminder of the centuries that shaped not only the fortification, but China itself.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Great Wall of China, which winds for 21,000km across the north of the country, is one of humanity’s most renowned creations. It has been listed as one of the “new” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fworld.new7wonders.com\u002Fwonders\u002Fgreat-wall-of-china-220-b-c-and-1368-1644-a-d-china\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeven Wonders of the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E alongside the Taj Mahal and the Colosseum. It was named a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F438\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 1987. When tourists come to Beijing, they head by busload to the wall’s most famous outposts. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFew of them come here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Jiankou section of the wall ribbons over the top of jagged green mountains for 20km. From the valley below, it looks like icing piped onto each peak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is located just 100km north of Beijing. But it is completely different from its better-known neighbours, like Badaling or Mutianyu. There is no souvenir shop or Starbucks, no cable car or gondola. No one is waiting to sell you tickets. No one is there to make your visit easier, either: to access this section of the wall, you must hike 45 minutes up a mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd there was – until recently – no restoration. Built in the 1500s and early 1600s, this section was left untouched for centuries. Around seven kilometres of it fared especially badly. Over time, the towers melted into mounds of rubble. Some parts of the wall tumbled down completely, rendering once-wide sections so narrow that only one person could walk at a time. Trees and bushes pushed through the ground, making the wall look more forest than fortification.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe lack of work on the wall made it picturesque, but dangerous. “Every year, maybe one or two people die hiking on this part of the wall,” said Ma Yao, project manager of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tencent.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fresponsibility\u002Ftencent-great-wall-restoration-project.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Wall Protection Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Tencent Charity Foundation, which funded the latest repair. “Some from hiking and falling down, dead. And some from being hit by lightning. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The technology helped us to repair the wall as traditionally as possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn order to prevent further tragedy – and to preserve the Jiankou wall for future generations – restoration began in 2015. This intensive phase, focusing on a 750m-long section, wrapped up in 2019.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn a sunny spring day towards the project’s end, I sat on the wall with Ma. We were surrounded by fortification-topped peaks as far as the eye could see. “You can see the mountains here. The machines can’t come here. We have to use people,” he told me. “But we should use technologies to help these people to do this work better.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor the 2019 phase of the project, that technology included drones, 3D mapping and a computer algorithm that could tell engineers whether they had to remove that tree or fix this crack – or whether they could safely leave them as they were, reminders of when the wall had once been wild.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The technology helped us to repair the wall as traditionally as possible,” Ma said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESnaking across northern China, from Manchuria to the Gobi Desert to the Yellow Sea, the Great Wall is vast. Its history is equally epic: it was built over more than 2,000 years, from the 3rd Century BC up to the 17th Century AD, by 16 different dynasties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe longest and most famous section belongs to the Ming dynasty, who built (and rebuilt) the wall from 1368 to 1644, including the Jiankou section. An \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F1\u002Fhi\u002Fworld\u002Fasia-pacific\u002F8008108.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Earchaeological survey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the State Administration of Cultural Heritage and the State Bureau of Surveying and Mapping calculated that the Ming wall ran for 8,851km – including 6,259km of wall, 359km of trenches, 2,232km of natural features and 25,000 watchtowers. Far from one line from A to B, the network includes loops, double walls, parallel walls and spurs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, about one-third of the original Ming fortifications have vanished. Only about 8% are considered to be well preserved. The threats have been many: natural erosion from wind and rain; human destruction from construction; and even people selling bricks. And, of course, the damage caused by footfall. That’s true even at Jiankou, despite having so many fewer visitors than stretches like Badaling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Just over the hill there are 20 million people,” said historian and conservationist William Lindesay, referring to Beijing. “So, the ‘leave nothing but footprints’ [advice] – even footprints can actually damage the wall.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELindesay has devoted his life to researching, writing about and fighting for conservation of the wall. Originally from England, Lindesay saw it on a map as a boy in 1967 and decided he had to explore it. In 1987, three years after a run of Hadrian’s Wall that inspired him to revive his childhood fascination, he walked the Great Wall on foot. He was the first foreigner to walk the Ming wall from end to end, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-china-38127250\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean undertaking he did again, albeit by Jeep, in 2016\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “It wasn’t this scenic footslog. I was stopped by the police nine times – you could call them arrests,” he told me. “I was eventually charged with repeated trespassing in closed areas and I was deported. So, I went to Hong Kong and [was later able to come back in]. I had the physical adventure, the political adventure – and I made three proposals of marriage to the same girl, so I had the romantic adventure.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“How did that turn out?” I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe laughed. “Very well. We celebrated our 33rd wedding anniversary three weeks ago.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"[It] actually constitutes the world’s greatest open-air museum","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe also fell in love with the Jiankou wall: the contrast of the grey fortifications against the green mountains; the trees growing through the bricks. He moved to the foot of Jiankou with his family in 1997 and coined the term “wild wall” to describe the difference between a spot like Jiankou and the reconstructed, touristed sections like Badaling. “The wild wall – and there are thousands of kilometres of it – actually constitutes the world’s greatest open-air museum,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHis library is dotted with photographs from his long treks. Every surface is laden with books on the wall, many of them written by him. He showed me some of the treasures he’s accumulated over the years: a 16th-Century “rock bomb”, hollowed out to hold gunpowder; a polished crossbow that’s a reconstruction of the kind that archers shot from the wall in its earliest days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the more than 20 years since moving here, he has seen the Jiankou wall degenerate. At first, he said, he would have classified the section as well-preserved. Not anymore. Where the wall steps were perfect, they’ve now been gouged out by footsteps. Towers have crumbled. The wall has become more dangerous to climb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You can’t make the Great Wall forbidden. It’s almost an impossible task. So, I think the government has had no option but to start to reconstruct and stabilise, for safety,” Lindesay said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe paused. “I love the wilderness wall,” he said. “But when the visitor levels reach a certain level, it doesn't work. Then it becomes a tragedy.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180919-in-china-a-great-wall-no-one-knows\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA great wall no one knows\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170912-the-man-who-built-a-chinese-utopia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe man who built a Chinese utopia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190512-chinas-ancient-city-thats-luring-expats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina’s ancient city that’s luring expats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe hike up to the wall passes through orchard, then forest. The path is punctuated with the occasional sign that pleads for preservation. “Chinese civilisation belongs to the world and everyone has a responsibility to protect the wall,” says one. “Take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints,” says another. I hiked up and back down again every day for four days, and only once did I run into other visitors in the forest: two women who I heard long before seeing them. One was singing a folk song. When they saw me, they insisted on a selfie together. There are not many American travellers in these parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the top, the repair project came into view before the wall itself did. A mass of scaffolding rose up before me. After several months, the final phase of the project was coming to an end.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The wall is a fortune and legacy for all of us,” said Zhao Peng, the restoration’s lead designer. “Repairing it and protecting it is not merely something we’re willing to do, but that we want to do – and it’s also a responsibility.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut repairing the wall can be opposed to protecting it. If a site is rebuilt too much, it can lose the flavour of what it once was. Many say that that was the fate of Badaling, the most popular part of the wall. During its overhaul, which started in the 1950s, it was rebuilt with new bricks, sandwiched together with modern cement. Many today are covered in graffiti. It’s been derided as a “Disneyfication” of the wall, a contemporary imagining of what once had been. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Jiankou restoration was planned to avoid those mistakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, I watched as a team of mules waited patiently near the scaffolding. They’d come up the same way I had, laden with enormous sacks of white ash. One of the workers mixed the ash into a thick white soup. There would be no modern concrete here. Other workers spread the mortar onto bricks with a trowel, placing them carefully into the wall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe 750m section that was the focus of this phase climbed up the hill before me. A few trees rose through the bricks. It was a far cry from the forested path that Jiankou had been before. Still, plenty of hints of wildness remained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I climbed up, one part was extremely steep and slippery, so much so that even in hiking boots I had to crab-walk to avoid falling. In another, the side of the wall had slid away completely. And at the end of the section, the wall just – stopped: it turned into a chute that tumbled down the mountain so steeply you couldn’t possibly survive the journey without climbing ropes or an abseil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Minimum intervention doesn’t mean no intervention at all","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EZhao pointed out the various interventions that had been made. Despite Lindesay’s concerns about footfall, the single biggest cause of damage to the Jiankou section is water erosion. Long-term, keeping the wall preserved meant changing the water flow from rainfall. The team introduced drainage holes and other channels for the water to pass through. And in sections where water tended to accumulate, they used new bricks – these were denser, so the water couldn’t penetrate, and flatter, so it could move. The new bricks look noticeably different from the old ones, a way for future generations to tell the difference between the original and the restoration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We have one principle – that is the minimum intervention principle,” Zhao said. “But minimum intervention doesn’t mean no intervention at all.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the ways that the project minimised its intervention was with modern technology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENormally, Zhao explained, designers would do a detailed inspection and survey of the wall and note any weaknesses . Back in their studio, they would work out how to manage those limitations to preserve the wall for the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis time, they were aided by something new. In Beijing, at Peking University’s School of Archaeology and Museology, engineer Shang Jinyu took me through the process. His team flew a drone over the section, taking around 800 images in a half a day. Using those images, they were able to build a detailed 3D model of the wall, down to every brick and crack. To get a complete picture of the restoration, they repeated the process halfway through, and again at the end.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have done many 3D models and panoramic photos like this in different heritage sites in China,” Shang Jinyu said. “But it’s the first project where we can use the system as part of the restoration project, and can combine it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat data helped inform how the design team would repair the wall with minimal intervention. One example is a crack on one of the towers. “This crack is hard to inspect by manual labour,” said Zhao. “By flying the drone, taking photos and then digitising the data, we are able to decide the size of the crack, how much the wall is tilted and pushed out. We then can decide how stable the wall is.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe data also provides a clear record of each restoration stage. “The main goal of the 3D is to monitor the whole repair process,” Ma said. One example was one of the towers. Its roof was covered in trees, which were uprooted to keep the tower intact. To remove the trees, the team had to remove the bricks. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the past, it would have been difficult to know how to replace the bricks with any precision. Now, they could imitate the original placements much more closely, leaving bricks out where they’d originally been missing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They repaired the top of the tower, but it still looks like something that’s been standing there for hundreds of years,” Ma said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the Peking University team wasn’t the only one to have this idea. The computer and technology behemoth Intel did their own 3D modelling – their drone captured 10,000 images – and shared their version with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fccrpf.org.cn\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Foundation for Cultural Heritage Conservation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was involved in the restoration project, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBoth projects were, largely, a proof of concept. Their data wasn’t incorporated as early, and as much, as it could have been. Still, they showed the construction and design teams just how the new technology could help them work faster in the future, and with less intervention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow, the teams are taking this knowledge into the next phase: restoration of a different part of the wall. “It’s in Xifengkou, about 300km from Jiankou,” Ma said. “The section is about 900m. And some of it is underwater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Like at Jiankou, we’ve used 3D modelling. And based on the experience of repairing the Jiankou section, the team adjusted some of their plans for the restoration because of the results of the modelling.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was lunchtime on my last day at the Jiankou wall. Chubby ants marched across stones. A furred bee as big as my thumb lolled past. It’s as if everything here was super-sized, epic, like the wall itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the shade of one of the towers, the workers slept. Their days began with a hike up the mountain at dawn. While drones and 3D modelling might have helped their design team, it didn’t replace the labouring work using chisels and hammers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe silence was broken only by two couples in hiking gear; the women had bandanas pulled up to their eyes to protect their skin from the sun. “Don’t go that way,” they told me, panting. “It’s too steep.” They gestured to a nearby section. A part of it had fallen down creating a sheer drop. Unless you were an adept free climber – like one of the builders, who I saw scramble up it like he was taking a stroll – the only way to the next part was by taking a dirt path around the side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo one seemed bothered by the two white signs with crisp red strokes that said, in Mandarin, “NO TOURISTS”. Technically, the wall isn’t officially “open” to the public, although no one can clarify exactly what that means, or explain why other signs aimed at tourists dot the hiking path.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith the restoration finished, it’s likely that this tranquillity will change. The “NO TOURIST” signs probably will, too. There will be less fear of the wild wall. More and more people will come, not only the most intrepid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe wall may be less derelict and dangerous than it once was. But it remains a striking reminder of the centuries that shaped not only the fortification, but China itself. And its spirit, if a wall can have a spirit, still has whispers of wild\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFilmed by Michelle Gao and Amanda Ruggeri \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReported, presented and produced by Amanda Ruggeri\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETranslations by Michelle Gao\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEdited by the BBC Travel Show\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWith thanks to the Tencent Charity Foundation, China Foundation for Cultural Heritage Conservation, Intel and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPeking University’s School of Archaeology and Museology \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffuture-of-the-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture of the Past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores important cultural heritage sites around the world that are under threat, and the innovations – both human and technological – being used to save them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall-26"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-10T00:13:33.493Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Jiankou: China’s remote and dangerous Great Wall","headlineShort":"China's remote and dangerous Great Wall","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While a remote part of the Great Wall may soon attract more visitors, it remains a striking reminder of the centuries that shaped not only the fortification, but China itself.","summaryShort":"It’s one of humanity’s most renowned creations","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-08-09T23:25:47.480741Z","entity":"article","guid":"0f4d34fd-8ee6-4ff0-8e2d-a5e87c020ca2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:48:49.108054Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language","_id":"616ff65e45ceed371656245a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Throughout history, women in rural Hunan Province used a coded script to express their most intimate thoughts to one another. Today, this once-“dead” language is making a comeback.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChina’s south-eastern Hunan province is a dramatic jigsaw puzzle of precipitous sandstone peaks, deeply incised river valleys and fog-shrouded rice paddy fields. Mountains cover more than 80% of the area, leaving many isolated hillside hamlets to develop independently of one another. It was here, hidden amongst the rocky slopes and rural river villages where Nüshu was born: the only writing system in the world created and used exclusively by women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeaning “women’s script” in Chinese, Nüshu rose to prominence in the 19th Century in Hunan’s Jiangyong County to give the ethnic Han, Yao and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171012-where-women-cant-marry-without-silver\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMiao women\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who live here a freedom of expression not often found in many communities of the time. Some experts believe the female-only language dates to the Song dynasty (960-1279) or even the Shang Dynasty more than 3,000 years ago. The script was passed down from peasant mothers to their daughters and practiced among sisters and friends in feudal-society China during a time when women, whose feet were often bound, were denied educational opportunities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of these women were illiterate, and to learn Nüshu, they would simply practise copying the script as they saw it. Over time, Nüshu gave rise to a distinct female culture that still exists today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was only learned of by the outside world in the 1980s","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERemarkably, for hundreds or possibly even thousands of years, this unspoken script remained unknown outside of Jiangyong, and it was only learned of by the outside world in the 1980s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, 16 years after the last known fluent native “speaker” of this ancient code passed away, this little-known written language is experiencing something of a rebirth. The centrepiece of its revival is in the tiny village of Puwei, which is surrounded by the Xiao river and only accessible via a small suspension bridge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Puwei resident Xin Hu, Nüshu was once widely spoken in the four townships and 18 villages closest to Puwei. After experts found three Nüshu writers in the 200-person village in the 1980s, Puwei became the focal point for Nüshu research. In 2006, the script was listed as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage by the State Council of China, and a year later, a museum was built on Puwei Island, where Xin began working as one of seven interpreters or “inheritors” of the language, learning to read, write, sing and embroider Nüshu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Each symbol represents a syllable and was written using sharpened bamboo sticks","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENüshu is a phonetic script read right to left that represents an amalgamation of four local dialects spoken across rural Jiangyong. Each symbol represents a syllable and was written using sharpened bamboo sticks and makeshift ink from the burnt remains left in a wok. Influenced by Chinese characters, its style is traditionally more elongated with curved, threadlike strokes sloping diagonally downwards and was sometimes referred to as “mosquito writing” by locals because of its spindly appearance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENüshu provided a way for women to cope with domestic and social hardships and helped to maintain bonds with friends in different villages. Convivial words of friendship and happiness were embroidered in Nüshu on handkerchiefs, headscarves, fans or cotton belts and exchanged. Though Nüshu wasn’t spoken, women at social gatherings sang and chanted songs or poems that varied from nursery rhymes to birthday tributes to personal regrets or marriage complaints using Nüshu phrases and expressions. Older women often composed autobiographical songs to tell their female friends about their miserable experiences or to promote morality and teach other women how to be good wives through chastity, piety and respect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough Nüshu is now understood as a means of communication for women who had not been afforded the privileges of reading and writing in Chinese, it was originally believed to be a code of defiance against the highly patriarchal society of the time. Historically, it was not socially acceptable for Chinese women to openly talk about personal regrets, the hardships of agricultural life or feelings of sadness and grief. Nüshu provided an outlet for the women and helped to create a bond of female friendship and support that was of great importance in a male-dominated society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was originally believed to be a code of defiance against the highly patriarchal society","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWomen who created this strong bond were known as “sworn sisters” and were typically a group of three or four young, non-related women who would pledge friendship by writing letters and singing songs in Nüshu to each other. While being forced to remain subservient to the males in their families, the sworn sisters would find solace in each other’s company.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2000, a Nüshu school opened in Puwei, and Xin decided to follow her mother and sister there to study. She now teaches Nüshu writing to students, guides visitors around the museum and has become the face of the language, embarking on publicity trips across Asia and Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Some inheritors have learned from their grandmothers since they were young, like our oldest Nüshu heir He Yanxin, who is in her 80s,” Xin said. “People like it because they think this culture is very unique and want to learn and understand [it].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut why the script originated and flourished in this remote part of China remains a mystery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Why the script originated and flourished in this remote part of China remains a mystery","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I think it has to do with a constellation of factors that exist in many places in southern China; non-Han peoples, sinicization (the process of assimilating non-ethnically Chinese communities under Chinese influence), remoteness,” said Cathy Silber, professor of Chinese at Skidmore College in New York who first learned of Nüshu in 1986 and has been researching and writing about it ever since. Silber spent months living with Yi Nianhua, one of the last writers of Nüshu in 1988-89, translating Yi’s work into standard Chinese and giving lectures on the subject.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, much of what we know about Nüshu is due to the work of male researcher Zhou Shuoyi, who heard about the script in the 1950s after his aunt was married off to a man who lived in a village with Nüshu speakers. Zhou began researching the coded language for the Jiangyong Cultural Bureau in 1954, but when Mao Zedong’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-china-36284297\u002Fwhat-was-china-s-cultural-revolution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECultural Revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E erupted in the 1960s, Zhou’s work became targeted by the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I was labelled a ‘rightist’ because of the research I had done on the language,” Zhou recalled to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinadaily.com.cn\u002Fenglish\u002Fdoc\u002F2004-11\u002F08\u002Fcontent_389530.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Daily\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2004. “They burned all of my research files, and I was sent to the labour camp and wasn't released until 1979, after spending 21 years there.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs part of the Revolution, China’s communist leaders were keen on eradicating the country’s feudal past and anyone found using Nüshu was denounced. And as women began to receive more formal education in the 1950s, the language further declined. But after his release, Zhou continued translating the script tirelessly into Chinese. In 2003, a year before his death and that of the last surviving fluent native “speaker”, Yang Huanyi, Zhou published the first Nüshu dictionary, helping to elevate and promote its significance around the world. Today, Zhou remains the only male to have ever mastered the female-only script.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171217-why-south-koreans-rarely-use-the-word-me\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the South Korean language was designed to unify\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy no-one speaks Indonesia's language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170731-greeces-disappearing-whistled-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreece's disappearing whistled language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFlanked by the Xiao river, the elegant Nüshu Garden and museum features a classroom and exhibition halls. Videos, paintings and cultural exhibits adorn the walls, while embroidery and calligraphy classes provide hands-on opportunities for cultural connection. The museum itself has recently been expanded and hosts an annual festival featuring poems and songs performed in Nüshu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery summer, free Nüshu training courses are set up at the museum and each of the inheritors takes turns explaining its history and demonstrating its calligraphy. But Xin explains that Nüshu is quite difficult to replicate. “There are some difficulties in learning. First of all, its writing method is different from the Chinese characters we use. The other is its pronunciation problem. If you can’t speak the local dialect, it’s difficult to read or sing Nüshu.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most important uses of Nüshu came as a result of marriage. Traditionally, after a wedding, the bride would leave her parents’ home and move into the home of the groom. The bride would often feel isolated in her new role, so Nüshu provided a means for women to express sadness and lament broken friendships among one another. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe newlyweds’ move-in process would involve the handing over of a Sanzhaoshu or “Third-Day Book” that was made from cloth and given to the bride three days after her wedding. The mother of the bride and her close friends would express their feelings of sorrow and loss in the book while good wishes for future happiness would be recorded in the first few pages. The remaining pages would be left blank for future thoughts and to serve as a personal diary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, original Nüshu artefacts are rare, as many were destroyed during the Revolution. But recent years have seen an increase in its representation in the form of film, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-34461741\u002Fa-symphony-for-china-s-dying-language-of-nu-shu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esymphony\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and literature. Additionally, young women across Jiangyong are now learning the script at the museum. There were 20 students enrolled in a summer course this year, and inheritors like Xin have started teaching online classes via the popular Chinese app WeChat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELiming Zhao, a leading scholar in the study of Nüshu, recently taught a course on the subject at Tsinghua University in Beijing. According to her, the role of Nüshu has evolved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Since the death of Yang Huanyi, [Nüshu] has entered the post-women's-calligraphy era. It is not inherited and used naturally but is deliberately studied and used for business and tourism. Of course, this is also a kind of preservation and inheritance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Liming believes that Nüshu remains an empowering means to appreciate women’s beauty and strength.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“[Nüshu] has completed her historical mission – a cultural tool for lower-class working women who did not have the right to education to write languages,” Liming said. “Now she only leaves beautiful calligraphy, wisdom and brave spirit to future generations.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-01T20:50:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Nüshu: China’s secret female-only language","headlineShort":"The world’s only women-only language","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"27.3682876","longitude":"109.2825663","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Throughout history, women in rural Hunan Province used a coded script to express their most intimate thoughts to one another. Today, this once-“dead” language is making a comeback.","summaryShort":"Once thought to be extinct, this “forbidden” language is making a comeback","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-09-30T19:58:16.43024Z","entity":"article","guid":"3239d64f-a92d-44cc-ab3b-15563e16e9a6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:54:04.155598Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces","_id":"61770b5345ceed48950621a7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgary-jones"],"bodyIntro":"Hacked from mountains in south-western China, the sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces stack up over more than 160sq km to create one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is often said that the Great Wall of China is the only man-made object visible from space. It's not true, of course; the crumbling, frequently overgrown structure is mostly no wider than a country road. But if the unaided human eye really can spot some of Earth's engineered marvels from low orbit, then in China they must surely include the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1111\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHonghe Hani Rice Terraces\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHacked from mountains in the country's south-western Yunnan province, the sprawling terraces – hundreds of thousands of them – stack up over more than 160sq km to create one of the most spectacular and jaw-dropping landscapes on the planet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat's more, through the massive, multi-generational engineering project that created the staircase-like terraces, the local Hani people – one of China's 55 officially recognised ethnic minorities – have harnessed the local environment for the benefit of the entire community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Since ancient times, Hani people have built ditches and canals to divert spring water from mountains and forests to irrigate terraced fields,\" said A Xiaoying, a Yunnan-based guide with specialist tour company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinahighlights.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Highlights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The amount of ditches required has been huge, needing a great deal of manpower and material resources, which individuals or villages could not afford independently.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERefined through trial and error over more than a millennium, the rice terraces are an inspiring example of an entire community working symbiotically with nature, with land use arranged by elevation into distinct ecological zones. Rainfall and moisture from dense mountain fog are collected in forested catchment areas high on the slopes, recharging ground water; spring water is channelled to irrigate the terraces; pooled water evaporates to form clouds; and clouds gather to shed rain on the high forests. The hydrologic cycle then repeats ad infinitum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zmvzv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hani man working on the Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The Hani people have always lived in harmony with nature, forming a living environment with forests on the top, villages in the middle, terraces lower down and water systems such as rivers running through, thus creating a unique ecosystem of 'four elements' – forests, villages, terraces and water systems,\" A said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis strategy offers sustainable benefits not only in rice cultivation, but also in everything from timber, vegetable and fruit production to duck breeding, fish farming and the gathering of herbs employed in traditional medicines. The terraces are, effectively, the Hani's year-round larder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is water flowing through the engineered landscape all the time,\" explained American ethnographer Jim Goodman, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FYunnan.html?id=NwuHIAAACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYunnan: China South of the Clouds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has decades of experience interacting with the area's tribal peoples. \"Most other terrace systems elsewhere in the world don't have that. So, in the winter months, outside of the rice-growing season, the Hani terraces are still useful as a place for fish and frogs, for snails, for good things that the Hani can eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is believed that the Hani arrived in the Ailao mountains, close to Yunnan's modern border with Vietnam, around the 3rd Century, having migrated south from the harsh, barren and unforgiving Qinghai-Tibetan plateau. They were so enamoured by what they found there – fertile land, mild climate, plentiful rainfall – they chose to put down roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Hani have engineered the landscape democratically, using a system of channels, dividers and dykes to ensure that the water moves through the space fairly","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith more than 80 villages served by the terraces today, water is the commodity that's not only crucial for the Hani's survival, but for community cohesion, too. Equality of supply, said Goodman, is the starting point of the group's success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Hani have engineered the landscape democratically, using a system of channels, dividers and dykes to ensure that the water moves through the space fairly,\" he said. \"Every village has an official 'water guardian', who ensures that the water is distributed evenly. The family whose land is at the bottom of the terrace gets the same water as whoever is at the top.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zmvzq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Close up of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EViewed from any lofty vantage point, the asymmetrical terraces – some as big as football pitches, others no larger than a casually thrown bed sheet, and all clearly defined by dark, curving walls of compacted mud – slot together like a colossal jigsaw puzzle. In winter and spring, the terraces fill with water to reflect the sky, each resembling a lozenge-like panel in a mighty, swirling stained-glass window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHani farmers began carving the terraces out of the mountains during the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD), with their distinctive use of land recounted in handed-down accounts. The terraces have been tended ever since, climbing from riverbank locations at less than 500m above sea level to cloud-shrouded heights of more than 1,800m, and on inclines as steep as 70 degrees. The oft-abused description \"stairways to heaven\" is most apt here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe noodle taking the world by storm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's remote and dangerous Great Wall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's secret female-only language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven more impressive, perhaps, is that the terraces have always been carved by hand, and that the construction methods used today are the same as those of the Hani's ancestors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can't mechanise the terraces,\" explained Goodman. \"You can't use tractors or other machines because of their shape and location. And they're often knee-deep with water. So, the Hani are still using buffalo or doing the hard work by hand, using the same picks and hoes and hand tools that they've used for hundreds of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being gradually extended with each planting season, the Hani's gargantuan engineering marvel-cum-abstract artwork remained largely hidden from the rest of the world for centuries. A rare outsider account came in the 1890s, when Prince Henri of Orléans led a French expedition from Vietnam to Yunnan, searching for the source of the Irrawaddy River that bisects Burma.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The hillsides here were covered two-thirds of their height with rice fields, rising in regular terraces, over which water trickled in a series of cascades that glittered like glass in the sun,\" Henri wrote, adding, \"This method of irrigation was quite a work of art, all the embankments being thrown up by hand or stomped by foot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 1920s, American Harry A Franck – one of the foremost travel writers of the time – also slipped into Yunnan from Vietnam, watching from the window as his train chugged through the rugged landscape along the French-built, narrow-gauge railway. \"There are terraces everywhere, steeper than stairways, long, but as narrow as they are high, the mountains about them mirrored in new rice fields,\" Franck gushed in his book Roving Through Southern China (1925).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zmvzn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Portrait of an elderly Hani woman in Yunnan, China","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut then, kicking off in the 1930s – with China's long war with Japan, followed by civil war and revolution and the shuttering of the newly communist country behind the so-called \"bamboo curtain\" – the mountainous region became off limits for foreigners, only reopening in the '80s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENobody paid much attention until the 2000s, with the arrival of new tarmac roads and a local authority determined to get the terraces highlighted on Unesco's World Heritage List. (This was finally achieved in 2013, the UN agency stating: \"The resilient land management system of the rice terraces demonstrates extraordinary harmony between people and their environment, both visually and ecologically.\")\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the past decade, keeping such a topographical oddity under wraps has been impossible, of course, with well-heeled photography enthusiasts – mostly from China's affluent cities – converging on the flooded terraces during China's Lunar New Year holiday in late January or early February, capturing the mind-blowing scenes in megapixels and then flooding social media with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the terraces shimmer a vibrant emerald in the summer growing season (the local micro-climate supports just one rice crop a year, if an abundant one), the landscape is at its most photogenic from November to late April, when the waterlogged terraces become natural mirrors that glow in shades of indigo and tangerine, in gold, turquoise and magenta, with every sunrise and sunset. Farmers and water buffalo occasionally lumber by in pleasing silhouette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hani villages are also postcard-perfect, their squat, ochre-hued houses of adobe and stone topped with mushroom-like thatched roofs. Thumping great black pigs and accompanying farrows of cute piglets roam freely, always accompanied by a reassuring soundtrack of gurgling streams and tinkling irrigation channels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zmvy9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yuanyang, China","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYuanyang county, the home of the terraces, has a population of some 370,000 people, with almost 90% coming from tribal groups. Come bustling market days in villages such as Shengcun, the Hani are joined by their Miao, Yao, Dai, Zhuang and Yi neighbours to trade and attend to regional business, to eat and drink, to gossip and smoke their distinctive, elongated bamboo pipes, the women often decked out in colourful and embroidered tribal costumes and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171012-where-women-cant-marry-without-silver\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echunky silver jewellery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWander 200m from Shencun in any direction, however, and the frantic buying and selling of the market is easily forgotten. Hike the meandering trails through the terraces – or even along their mud walls if nimble on your feet – and you will be absolutely alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Hani can give the world lessons in land management, as well as in how to live in harmony with the environment","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a time of shrinking natural resources globally, Goodman says the Hani can give the world lessons in land management, as well as in how to live in harmony with the environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They are proud of what they've achieved,\" he said. \"They accomplished something marvellous that has held firm for possibly 1,300 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe added: \"Show them a photo you took of Hani people dressed up in their traditional clothes, with their fancy jewellery and whatnot, and they'll shrug. Show them a picture of the rice terraces and you'll get a big smile and a thumbs-up.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-26T00:45:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The marvel of China's multi-generational rice terraces","headlineShort":"China's ancient 'stairways to heaven'","image":["p09zmvzx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in clouds in Yuanyang, China","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.3623","longitude":"103.3746","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in clouds in Yuanyang, China","promoImage":["p09zmvzx"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-jiankou-chinas-remote-and-dangerous-great-wall","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hacked from mountains in south-western China, the sprawling Honghe Hani Rice Terraces stack up over more than 160sq km to create one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.","summaryShort":"The topographical oddity was hidden from the rest of the world for centuries","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-25T19:53:48.403349Z","entity":"article","guid":"6f588c95-ced2-4496-a39b-93d646164397","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-26T02:37:40.026738Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fchina","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_china_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","_id":"616ff63645ceed10e528e500","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Swedish constitution allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim or camp almost anywhere in the country.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESwedish ice-climbing instructor Markus Nyman warms up his students with an off-piste ski tour, snaking past pine trees so thick with powder that locals describe them as \"snow ghosts\". They're only a few minutes' slalom from the main chair lift that takes alpine adventurers to the top of the slopes of Duved, a 17th-Century village 640km north of Stockholm. But soon they're swapping skis for crampons and poles for pickaxes as they prepare to scale a frozen waterfall in the middle of the forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Beginners as young as 12 aim to reach the top of an 8m near-vertical wall of thick ice","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The first feeling is so strange because you can walk on such slippery ice and have such a perfect grip,\" explained Nyman. Many of his clients, he says, are families who want to \"combine skiing in the resort with trying something challenging and new\". Beginners as young as 12 aim to reach the top of an 8m near-vertical wall of thick ice, using pickaxes to latch on to the frozen glaze and slowly haul themselves up the slippery crag. A top rope and harness keep them secure if they lose their hold. Star pupils can move on to an 18m icefall, if their muscles can take the strain while braving temperatures that can plummet to -20C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDemand for Nyman's services peaks during February and early March, as the days get longer and the ice hasn’t yet begun to melt. But the main reason he’s so busy is due to an annual Swedish tradition called \u003Cem\u003Esportlov\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a nationwide school holiday designed to enable Swedish children to get outside and embrace winter sports. Schools across the country shut down for a week at a time, efficiently spread over a month to make sure resorts don’t get too crowded. And, with most Swedes entitled to at least five weeks' holiday a year, many parents take time off to join them. Single 20- and 30-somethings continue the habit into adulthood too, renting mountain cabins with friends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESportlov originated during World War Two when the government-run energy commission recommended shutting down schools for a week to save money on heating in the midst of a European coal shortage. In order to keep children occupied while their parents worked, state-funded outdoor activities were offered instead. \"When everything went back to normal and the war was over, officials saw the good impact on the kids and came up with the idea that this was a good thing to keep,\" explained Emelie Thorngren, who organises children's activities for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.friluftsframjandet.se\u002Fin-english\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish Outdoor Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the country's biggest non-profit outdoor sports organisation. \"They wanted kids to do more physical activities and especially to make sure urban kids got to the mountains or the woods.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese days, some municipalities still lend out ice skates or toboggans or offer subsidised day trips to nature reserves during the week-long holiday. A range of non-profit groups also offers free or cheap outdoor experiences during sportlov and beyond, including the Swedish Outdoor Association, which consists of 300 local clubs. \"We have activities from zero to 100 years old and we are never about competition,\" said Thorngren. \"We welcome [everyone] to be in nature with us and take part in all the experiences and have all the good health benefits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis sporty take on spring break taps into a national love for nature that has long held a special place in the collective Swedish heart. Since medieval times, Swedes have embraced a concept called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fnature-outdoors\u002Fnature\u002Fsustainable-and-rural-tourism\u002Fthe-right-of-public-access\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eallemansrätten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the right to roam) pertaining to the country’s great outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A law allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim and camp almost anywhere in Sweden","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFormally enshrined in the Swedish constitution in the 1990s, this veritable national law of wanderlust means that Swedes and foreign visitors alike can ski, cycle, skate, swim, camp and – yes – even pick-axe up frozen waterfalls anywhere in Sweden that isn't on or near private property. And since \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsweden.se\u002Fnature\u002Fswedes-love-nature\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E97% of the nation is uninhabited\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and very few trails or beaches are private, there's no shortage of beautiful spots to explore: two-thirds of the country is covered in forest; there are 30 national parks and more than 4,000 nature reserves (together covering an area greater than neighbouring Denmark); nearly 270,000 islands and thousands of kilometres of bike paths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEmbracing Sweden’s great outdoors has also been a growing trend amongst foreign tourists in recent years, with nature-based adventures and events among the top-five activities for global visitors in 2019, according to Visit Sweden, the country’s national tourism organisation. In the 10 months prior to the pandemic, around 60% of international overnight stays were to destinations outside Sweden’s capital. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20190909-why-flight-shame-is-making-people-swap-planes-for-trains\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eglobal flight-shaming movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – started by Swedish activist Greta Thunberg – also boosted regional travel prior to Covid-19 restrictions, with a high demand for coastal and rural holidays from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mynewsdesk.com\u002Fse\u002Fegmont-publishing\u002Fpressreleases\u002Fresebarometern-2019-svenskarnas-resande-minskar-2858059\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.svt.se\u002Fnyheter\u002Flokalt\u002Fvarmland\u002Fnorska-turister-valjer-sverige\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorwegians\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oresundsinstituttet.org\u002Ffarre-flyger-inrikes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20200128-why-germans-are-flying-less\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E keen to explore the Swedish countryside by train, ferry or car, rather than travelling further afield.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EAllemansrätten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is also about rights and obligations that mean that you should take responsibility and show consideration for landowners and other visitors,\" explained Thorngren. \"We have this 'don't disturb, don't destroy' [mantra] and we teach all our kids that little saying... so you grow up with this, and you see the benefits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The freedom to roam... this is our monument","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Mid Sweden University in Östersund, a small lakeside city 90 minutes east of Duved’s ski slopes and waterfalls, Lusine Margaryan – an assistant professor specialising in nature-based tourism originally from Armenia – has been researching the obsession with outdoor pursuits in her adopted country. She says Swedes’ passion for spending time in nature is strongly linked to the fact that \"industrialisation happened in Scandinavia relatively late compared to most of mainland Europe.\" Once a nation of farmers, there were few urban areas in Sweden until the late 19th Century. Even today, there are no Swedish cities with more than one million people, and many Swedes still live in sparsely populated areas separated by vast tracts of wilderness. This has meant that \"traditions relating to the rural lifestyle and living off the land\" ended up sticking around. \"Hunting and fishing, berry picking, collecting timber... these skills have remained in the Scandinavian countries,\" Margaryan explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210201-langkawi-the-curious-island-of-the-strange-colugos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201203-why-swedes-dont-speak-to-strangers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Swedes don't speak to strangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200526-swedens-single-diner-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden's single-diner restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven the country’s prime minister, Stefan Löfven, says he likes to clear his mind by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fculture-history-and-art\u002Fculture\u002Flocal-people\u002Fprime-minister-top-5-things\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echopping wood, collecting cloudberries or skipping stones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the lakes around Örnsköldsvik, his home town on Sweden’s northern coast. And the country's official tourism website \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fnature-outdoors\u002Fnature\u002Fsustainable-and-rural-tourism\u002Ffreedomtoroam\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproudly states\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"Sweden has no Eiffel Towers. No Niagara Falls or Big Bens. Not even a little Sphinx. Sweden has something else – the freedom to roam. This is our monument.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's also common for countryside cottages to be passed down through generations, says Margaryan, enabling many urban Swedes to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20200813-the-swedish-staycation-obsession\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espend holidays in more rural areas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where their parents or grandparents grew up. Today, around one in five people own one, while more than half of Swedes have access to one via family or friends, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scb.se\u002Fen\u002FAbout-us\u002Fnews-and-press-releases\u002Fhundreds-of-thousands-swedes-own-holiday-homes-in-other-municipalities\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStatistics Sweden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the pandemic, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhealth-52479763\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evalue of spending time outdoors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to reduce stress and enhance mental wellbeing (rather than just to keep physically fit), has become a mantra of governments and public health charities around the world. But these kinds of discussions date back centuries in Scandinavia and provide further context for Swedes’ love of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA concept called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp08wwmfc\u002Fthe-scandinavian-way-to-tackle-winter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efriluftsliv\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which translates as \"open-air living\", was popularised across the region in the 1850s, after the Norwegian playwright and poet Henrik Ibsen advocated spending time in remote locations as a form of relaxation. \"It's kind of very close to what we mean nowadays by mindfulness,\" Margaryan explained. \"So it is a search for a deeper connection to the landscape and being in nature and going into this very self-reflexive, meditative mood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENyman agrees that his passion for ice-climbing (called \u003Cem\u003Eisklättring \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Swedish) is as much about keeping his mental health strong as it is about pushing his body's physical limits. \"You can't – even if you want to – think of something else like your day-to-day troubles, because you really have to focus,\" he said. \"And [from Duved] you can see down to the valley; you can see the mountains in the distance… really what most people think about when they get to the top is 'wow!'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Margaryan, who grew up in Armenia’s capital Jerevan, moving to Sweden has made it much easier to indulge her own lifelong passion for spending time outdoors. \"It's very ingrained in the local culture... and it's literally no effort to find some nature, because even the cities, they always have forests, big parks.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If [people] didn't grow up with the idea that they should go into the forest… the forest is perceived as a dangerous place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, she notes she’s the only immigrant in her local running club and believes improving access to the outdoors for Sweden’s increasingly diverse population is an important challenge. One in five people living in Sweden was born abroad or have parents from other countries, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmiun.diva-portal.org\u002Fsmash\u002Frecord.jsf?faces-redirect=true&aq2=%5B%5B%5D%5D&af=%5B%5D&searchType=LIST_LATEST&sortOrder2=title_sort_asc&query=&language=sv&pid=diva2%3A1532750&aq=%5B%5B%5D%5D&sf=all&aqe=%5B%5D&sortOrder=author_sort_asc&onlyFullText=false&noOfRows=50&dswid=3085\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Equalitative research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Mid Sweden University indicates that many are less engaged with annual traditions like sportlovor concepts such as allemansrätten and friluftsliv\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThis stems from a range of factors, like limited information about outdoor activities in languages other than Swedish, immigrants tending to have less disposable income for sports equipment, unfamiliarity with colder climates and cultural reasons that can affect their relationship with nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"If [people] didn't grow up with the idea that they should go into the forest… the forest is perceived as a dangerous place rather than where someone could go for a walk alone in the evening,\" said Margaryan.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut efforts are underway to better integrate immigrants and other vulnerable groups into Sweden’s outdoor lifestyle and improve their access to nature. Recent initiatives include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fritidsbanken.se\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFritidsbanken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the leisure bank), a nationwide non-profit organisation which works like a public library, loaning out donated sports equipment for up to 14 days. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-43845098\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHej Främling!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (\"Hey Stranger!) group puts migrants and locals in touch so they can do free outdoor activities like hiking or running together. Mid University Sweden has surveyed thousands of sports clubs to try and identify areas of improvement, and it’s involved in a new 56m kronor (£4.7m) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mistra.org\u002Fnyhet\u002Fmistra-sport-outdoors-ska-framja-ett-hallbart-idrotts-och-friluftsliv\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esustainable tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E project that will, over the next eight years, test fresh ways to make sports equipment and transportation more accessible, while also protecting the environment. The Swedish Outdoor Association – which has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.friluftsframjandet.se\u002Fdetta-gor-vi\u002Fsamhallspaverkan\u002FSamhallspaverkan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elong lobbied decision makers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and politicians to increase funding to enable even greater public participation in outdoor activities – is among those involved in the programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The more people who are given the opportunity to stay in nature, the more people want to protect it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It is important that all people are given the same opportunity to stay in nature and have access to outdoor life,\" said Thorngren. \"The more people who are given the opportunity to stay in nature, the more people want to protect it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd that, she hopes, will enable children in Sweden to keep enjoying the outdoors for generations to come, whether that’s scaling a frozen waterfall during sportlov, picking berries like the prime minister or just enjoying the benefits of a simple stroll around a city lake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-19T22:14:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Swedish law of wanderlust","headlineShort":"The Swedish law of wanderlust","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Swedish constitution allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim or camp almost anywhere in the country.","summaryShort":"Sweden has no Eiffel Towers or Big Bens – but it has the 'right to roam'","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-04-18T22:22:10.779598Z","entity":"article","guid":"fde7b43f-6c0d-43b6-84d6-4f9dee5cc9d2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:06:39.493735Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation","_id":"616ff6a245ceed56731deea3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Roughly 150 years ago, a priest led Americans to \"vacate\" cities and enjoy nature in the Adirondacks. Now, a brand-new trail connecting the US and Canada is hoping to do the same","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA red-tailed hawk dived into the underbrush lining the guardrail. Then, a blue jay flitted across the road, missing my car's windshield by a feather. There were no signs pointing the way to gas stations and fast-food drive-thrus. Towering trees blocked out most vestiges of civilisation. I was not yet off a major interstate, but I had already entered the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitadirondacks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdirondack Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I felt a hint of the wild that had drawn me from New York City, 200 miles away, that morning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Adirondacks are the largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELying entirely within the state of New York, the Adirondack Mountains are still largely mysterious to most, even those within easy driving distance like me. The Adirondack Park covers a staggering 6.1 million acres of land – making it bigger than Yellowstone, Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Glacier and the Great Smoky Mountain national parks combined – and is the largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States. But with no park fees, closing hours or entrance gates, it's easy to meander in and out of the US' largest National Historic Landmark and one of its oldest protected forests without ever knowing you'd entered in the first place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Adirondacks are bigger than Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Glacier and the Great Smoky Mountain national parks combined","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was following the footsteps of countless city-dwelling travellers before me, looking for fresh air, adventure and a break from the noise. Of those travellers, I was most interested in one: William Henry Harrison Murray, a charismatic clergyman from Boston who, 152 years ago, published the first how-to guide to camping in the Adirondacks – and set off a mad rush of city folk heading into these mountains to escape the pestilence and pollution of the big city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFilled with tales of his own travels, as well as practical information on what to wear, when to go and how to get there, Murray's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fbooks\u002Fedition\u002FAdventures_in_the_Wilderness\u002FUeY-AAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&printsec=frontcover\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdventures in the Wilderness; or, Camp-Life in the Adirondacks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was a sensation when it was released in 1869. As city folk \"vacated\" their New York apartments and fled to the Adirondacks in the thousands, Murray's guidebook in hand, journalists labelled it the \"Murray Rush\". That term may not have stuck around, but another one became increasingly common after that summer's mass migration into nature: \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smithsonianmag.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fwhere-was-the-birthplace-of-the-american-vacation-5520155\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evacation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As city folk 'vacated' their apartments and fled to the Adirondacks, the 'vacation' was born","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The practical advice made this book something that was a useful tool for people who maybe otherwise wouldn't have been likely to take a vacation at all,\" said Ivy Gocker, library director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theadkx.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdirondack Experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum in the hamlet of Blue Mountain Lake. She summed up Murray's argument: \"If you're someone who is slogging through a workday in the city, your life will improve if you give yourself time in the outdoors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Adirondacks draw Americans to venture into its wilderness","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a novel concept. Of course, people had visited and lived in even the most impenetrable sections of the Adirondacks for a long time. For starters, at least half a dozen different Indigenous groups have called the region home for millennia. In the centuries leading up to the publication of Murray's outdoor opus, the Adirondacks became a destination for \"sportsmen\", as Murray called the fishermen, hunters and trappers who made a living during long stints in the wild. The difference was that Murray was saying that anyone could do this, including – gasp! – women. To this day, Murray is still known as the father of the US' outdoor movement.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\"Murray was very intentionally setting out to democratise access to the Adirondacks,\" Gocker said. \"He explicitly said 'women should come up here too and these are the clothes they should pack.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201213-a-new-way-to-travel-across-the-us\"\u003EA new way to travel across the US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210504-the-plan-to-connect-every-british-town\"\u003EThe plan to connect every British town\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy\"\u003EA new hiking trail uniting Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, if the summer of 1869 saw the birth of the American vacation, it was a turbulent birth. Lured by Murray's evocative prose but not fully prepared for heavy rain, blood-sucking black flies and overbooked inns, many people came back disappointed. Critics labelled them \"Murray's Fools\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the Boston priest doubled down, insisting that the naysayers were just trying to keep all the beauty for themselves. Tourism in the Adirondacks continued to grow. There were many factors pushing city slickers into the wilderness, but chief among them was health. In his book, Murray wrote of a young man miraculously cured of tuberculosis consumption after time spent in the Adirondacks, countering the prevailing wisdom that time outside would lead to a cold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Murray believed that spending time in the Adirondacks was beneficial for people's health","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe that, all things being considered, no portion of our country surpasses, if indeed any equals, in health-giving qualities, the Adirondack Wilderness,\" he wrote in his guide. To anyone who over the course of a global pandemic has felt the urge to escape the city for somewhere where the air was clearer, this might all sound familiar.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAs I left my car in the town of Westport on the shores of Lake Champlain, I felt a sense of anticipation, of venturing into the challenging and the unknown, that many of Murray's Fools might have felt. In his book, Murray bragged that the trip into the Adirondacks – a combination of travel by rail, steamboat and carriage – was an \"easy and quick” 33 hours from Boston or New York City. Once in the mountains, he recommended travelling by boat down a dense network of rivers, shooting loons for sport and fishing for trout along the way. Part of the appeal of the Adirondacks in the 19th Century was the accessibility afforded by rail lines and steamboat routes. In the spirit of that original rush, I had come looking for an even newer way through the park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Empire State Trail extends from Manhattan to the Canadian border","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECompleted in December 2020, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fempiretrail.ny.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEmpire State Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a 750-mile bicycle route that extends from the southern tip of Manhattan north to the Canadian border and, via a perpendicular arm, between Buffalo and Albany – making it the longest multi-use state trail in the US. After passing through the Hudson Valley and the Catskills, often in the form of designated, car-free trails, it skirts the eastern edge of Adirondack Park, becoming a slender shoulder of a rolling parkway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Empire State Trail is the longest multi-use state trail in the US","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMurray emphasised the importance of a guide in the Adirondacks: \"A good guide, like a good wife, is indispensable to one's success, pleasure, and peace,\" he wrote in one of the many eye-rollingly 19th-Century turns of phrase in his book. I had planned to ride into the Adirondacks for a night of camping alone – it's a little easier to navigate road than river without a guide – but I did call on the expertise of a local. Doug Haney, owner and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bikeadirondacks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBikeADK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a company in the town of Saranac Lake that organises bike tours and events in the region, took one look at my proposed route and made it better.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EJust like Murray's book did some 150 years ago, Haney hopes that the new Empire State Trail will lure more visitors to the region, but he pointed out that it's not the best riding in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think you're a perfect example of what I think will happen in the Adirondacks,\" he said, when we caught up on the phone after my journey. \"People might build a ride around that north-to-south corridor of the Empire State Trail but may find that they want to jump off of it for a bit and really experience something that's special, something you don't get by going in a straight line.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAnd those people are coming in unprecedented numbers. \"With the pandemic, it was expected to be a down year, but it was the exact opposite,\" Haney said. While BikeADK had to cancel public cycling events, the company pivoted to organising more private tours. It was precisely what people were looking for, including a whole host of new cyclists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Some of the most scenic parts of the Empire State Trail are found just off the trail","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The cool thing has been that a lot of the people asking for our help are people that normally wouldn't do a cycling trip; they aren't your typical bicycling tourist,\" Haney said. \"I think the idea of being on your bike and being out and pedalling in a wilderness environment has been appealing to people trying to get away from the pandemic.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EVeering away from the straight line, my route snaked and dipped, curled and climbed. The northerly sections of the Empire State Trail, while beautiful, were the least fun stretches of my ride, preoccupied as I was by passing cars and trucks. On the best stretches, backroads that led me away from the sections of Route 22 designated part of the trail, I didn't see a person for 30 minutes at a time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter turning away from the lake and towards the mountains at Ausable Chasm, the \"Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks\", the scenery alternated between the pastoral and the wild; roadside companions switched between nonplussed cows and hyper-alert deer. It smelled like a barnyard on one curve, and pine needles the next. Towns appeared and, a mile later, disappeared. Gruelling climbs were rewarded with views of emerald-green valleys and mountain slopes so dense with tree coverage they looked like giant heads of broccoli. When the road was straight, I could see it for miles as it dipped and then took off like a ramp into eternity. \"What sports have we in house and city like those which the children of wood and stream enjoy?\" Murray wrote. What sports, indeed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ausable Chasm is known as the \"Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks\"","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBike travel is throwback travel. It slows the world down and allows you to drink it in, in a way that cars and planes don't. Strangers wave when you pass. If you stop long enough to chat, they will notice the pannier bags hanging off the back of your bicycle and the tent strapped to its rack. They'll ask where you're headed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey'll give you warnings about the weather or tips about butcher shops, water pumps and farm stands along the way. They tell you about how things have changed over the past year (\"busiest year I've seen\", \"you should see the weekend crowds in Lake Placid\"). They point the way to swimming holes and waterfalls where, dripping in sweat after pedalling across a mountain pass, you can dip your head in cold, clear water and feel reborn.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMy legs ached and my lungs burned as I rolled into a campsite in the shadow of Whiteface Mountain at the end of my first day, 70 miles from where I started. After setting up my tent and peeling myself out of sweat-soaked clothes, there was nothing to do but watch the light fade. Tomorrow, there were many more miles to go.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-28T23:25:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The birthplace of the US vacation","headlineShort":"The longest bike trail in the US","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Adirondacks are bigger than Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Glacier and the Great Smoky Mountain","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.3414238","longitude":"-74.2706652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Adirondacks are bigger than Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Glacier and the Great Smoky Mountain","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Roughly 150 years ago, a priest led Americans to \"vacate\" cities and enjoy nature in the Adirondacks. Now, a brand-new trail connecting the US and Canada is hoping to do the same.","summaryShort":"It's luring Americans back to where they first learned to love nature","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-28T00:00:46.064098Z","entity":"article","guid":"fd5932d1-f733-43e1-b27c-45d3e540f1d6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:11:47.597003Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","_id":"616ff69845ceed486f615b41","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the lowest tides, Canada's Comox estuary exposes a nearly forgotten story: the nubs of more than 150,000 wooden stakes are spread out across the intertidal zone, forming the remnants of hundreds of ancient fish traps. At peak use, it's believed the industrial-level installation provided food security for an estimated 10,000-12,000 K'ómoks People, the traditional inhabitants of the bountiful, mountain-fringed Comox Valley, located on the east side of Vancouver Island on the edge of the Salish Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, the sophisticated technology had been overlooked by Western science. Even though the stakes, which are thumb-sized in diameter in the shallows and increase to the size of small tree trunks in deeper water, are visible from busy shore-side roads, no-one thought much about them. For Cory Frank, manager of the K'ómoks Guardian Watchmen, a role that oversees all aspects of environmental stewardship for the coastal Nation, the stakes were just something he grew up with, playing and fishing among them at low tide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he asked elders about them, they didn't have much information.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrank says this began to change almost two decades ago. In 2002, Nancy Greene, then an undergraduate anthropology student, began researching the stakes for her senior thesis. Greene (now a research archaeologist) wanted to know what they were for. So, working with a team of volunteers, she began heading out at low tide and spent months recording the locations of 13,602 exposed tips of Douglas fir and western red cedar stakes. At the same time, she began asking the K'ómoks elders what she was looking at.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen she plotted them out, taking into account the oral history, the results were astounding. The stakes formed a constellation outlining one of the most extensive and sophisticated Indigenous fishing operations ever found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People monitoring and restoring clam gardens at Russell Island sea garden, BC, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreene realised that the 150,000 to 200,000 stakes, representing more than 300 fish traps, filled the shallow wetland. Radiocarbon dating placed the ages to range from 1,300 to just more than 100 years old. For Frank, the most impressive thing about the system is the precision of the designs. \"My ancestors were amazing engineers,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe explained that once he started studying how it all worked, he realised the traps are based on a deep knowledge of fish behaviour and the region's large tidal ranges. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fprojectwatershed.ca\u002F2017\u002F06\u002F14\u002Fancient-fish-traps\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaid out in two styles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – one heart shaped and one chevron shaped – the traps were lined with removable woven-wood panels that let water through but not the fish. During a rising tide, the fish followed the centreline of the trap, which mimicked the shoreline they'd naturally follow, through an entrance and into the enclosure. When the tide receded; the fish inside the trap were stranded in shallow pools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDepending on the trap style and season, the stewards of the traps could target either herring or salmon, and manage how many salmon went on to spawn in the local creek systems. By doing this they were able to ensure they only took enough fish to meet community and trade needs. If a fish run looked weak, they could opt not to fish it at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201123-canadas-forgotten-hawaiian-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's forgotten Hawaiian islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's mysterious loch dwellers  \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnswering the question about how such an elegant and sustainable fishing technology fell into forgotten disuse requires an understanding of some of the darkest parts of Canadian history. In what's now known as British Columbia, dozens of coastal nations thrived for thousands of years. But with the arrival of explorers, traders and settlers, disease and law were used to forcibly separate Indigenous people from their culture and land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When 80 to 90% of the population died, they lost their knowledge holders and the intricate skills and protocols that made these technologies work,\" said Anne Salomon, an applied marine ecologist who has been working alongside coastal Indigenous communities for 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Over thousands of years, they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESalomon explained that the Indian Act of 1876 forcibly removed people to reserves and cultural practices were outlawed. People lost physical access to their fish traps and sea gardens. \"Over thousands of years they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology,\" she said. \"When they lost agency over their land, they lost part of their identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beaches with lots of shell fragments in Gulf Island National Park Reserve","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the scientific community has been expressing surprise over the extensive nature of traditional coastal mariculture (information that's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcanada\u002Fbritish-columbia\u002Fclam-gardens-call-into-question-hunter-gatherer-past-of-b-c-first-nations-1.3068709\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esmashed the long-held stereotype\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that this was a population of unsophisticated hunter-gathers), Nicole Norris, a knowledge holder for the Hul'q'umi'num Nation and an aquaculture specialist, says the communities themselves had never forgotten. \"These were our grocery stores,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat \u003Cem\u003Ehas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E surprised Norris over the years she's spent exploring the British Columbia coast is how the technologies differ from nation to nation yet are perfectly adapted to each location. While the K'ómoks People used stakes with lattice fences to manage and sustain what was once one of the region's most productive fish runs, in her own territory around the Gulf Islands, the Hul'q'umi'num and W̱SÁNEĆ People stacked rocks \"like Tetris\" to build low walls running parallel to the shore. These walls were designed to trap silt, which changed the slope of the beach to create \"sea gardens\" – large, flat inter-tidal areas that, once cleared of large rocks, were carefully tended to create the ideal habitat for clams, crab, sea cucumbers, rockfish, octopus, whelks and other marine life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the winding inlets and islets of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Fbroughton\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBroughton Archipelago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Provincial Park, the technology changes again. Here, the Kwakwaka'wakw People built monumental rock walls, large enough to be seen from space, to create the ideal water depth to encourage clam growth in the shallow bays. Norris says they also built the rock walls into spiral-shaped gardens that created flattened areas that could take advantage of the region’s unique swirling currents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill further north, in the inner waterways and islands that make up part of Heiltsuk territory, Haíɫzaqv archaeologist Q̓íx̌itasu, also known as Elroy White, says his ancestors built stone-walled sea\u002Fclam gardens (called λápac̓i) and a wide variety of stone fish traps (called Ckvá) that were specifically designed depending on if they were \"on a tidal flat, or in a creek or at the mouth of a river\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were built so solidly that they wouldn't fall apart by actions of a river, or by the tide or if a canoe hit it,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor his thesis, \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsummit.sfu.ca\u002Fitem\u002F4240\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeiltsuk Stone Fish Traps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", White combined archaeology with oral history to gradually unravel the interconnection of rock-walled fish traps and his ancestors' relationship to salmon. He explained that when he began visiting the sites, he saw how the ancient fish trap technology and resource management system didn't just shape the tidal landscape, they shaped his culture and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rocky mounds in sea garden in Haida Gwaii, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I noticed a difference between archaeological and Heiltsuk views of the trap sites,\" he wrote in his thesis. He says traditional scientific research emphasised empirical data such as length, width and height and missed the human element; \"the important relationships my ancestors had with the environment, with salmon and with the fishing technology designed to capture them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe idea that you can't separate Indigenous culture from the lands that shaped them has been slowly taking hold in the scientific community on British Columbia's coast. Norris says that for a long time her people had no access to part of their lands because \"an arbitrary line was drawn making it a national park\". But after several rock walls were spotted at low tide in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGulf Island National Park Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (GINPR) and the decision was made in 2014 to restore a couple of the gardens, Norris says that Parks Canada did something profound: \"They asked for guidance from the First Nations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe abundance of even long-abandoned gardens found on British Columbia's coast is staggering. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC3949788\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EResearch shows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the terraced gardens, which Indigenous people have been building for at least 3,500 years, are 150 to 300% more productive than wild beaches in producing littleneck and butter clams, as well as other marine organisms. Erin Slade, a marine ecologist with the GINPR's sea garden restoration project, says this indicates that the techniques once used to steward the gardens have a lot to teach us. While national park scientists, like Slade, could have attempted to reverse-engineer the sea gardens through science alone, they opted to reinstate traditional management and stewardship practices by inviting the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\u002Fnature\u002Frestauration-restoration\u002Fjardins-de-la-mer-sea-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EW̱SÁNEĆ and Hul'q'umi'num Nations back to their lands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible,\" said Norris. So on the first gathering at a clam garden just off of Salt Spring Island, she told everyone to put their science away, asked for guidance from the ancestors and started at the beginning: \"This is how far you put your rake in. This is how wind or salinity or time of year affects the clams.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe moment Indigenous people returned to their sea gardens and fish traps was the moment the technology stopped being about the past and became about the future. In Heiltsuk territory, the fish traps are starting to support local tourism as a stop on \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hauyat.ca\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evirtual\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yuwala-marinecharters.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein person\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cultural tours and there are plans to integrate more traditional fishing methods into community life. Today, Haíɫzaqv visit the sites as a sacred reminder of their grandparents and great grandparents' strong connection to the land and sea and all it has to teach them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the GINPR, Slade says other communities have begun using their research to reestablish their own gardens – an ecological boost not just for the beaches being managed, but for the overall abundance of sea life on the coast that the biomass in the gardens can support. Slade says the expected increase in marine life is important, but the most significant part of restoring sea gardens has been in reinvigorating the teaching relationships between elders and youth. \"This knowledge has been generated over millennia of stewarding these places; it's something that was always meant to be passed on generation through generation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-14T19:35:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An underwater mystery on Canada's coast","headlineShort":"A mystery off Canada's coast","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.6506","longitude":"125.4494","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","summaryShort":"Until recently, these ancient sea gardens were overlooked by Western science","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-13T19:36:59.217233Z","entity":"article","guid":"118e63da-216e-4062-a300-ea0170e999db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-14T23:31:05.158475Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada","_id":"6175d34c45ceed393343438a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk"],"bodyIntro":"It was used by First Nations, fur traders and early westward-migrating settlers. Now, local communities are hoping it could become the world's next great long-distance hike.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPredating the Silk Road and the Amber Road, Canada's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.greasetrail.com\u002Ftrail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a narrow, little-known footpath that's been worn deeply into the earth by 6,000 years of walkers. From time immemorial, this 279-mile trail – which starts at a glacier-fed fjord near Bella Coola in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww2.gov.bc.ca\u002Fgov\u002Fcontent\u002Fenvironment\u002Fnatural-resource-stewardship\u002Fgreat-bear-rainforest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Bear Rainforest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, climbs east over mountain ranges and then fans out across what's now known as British Columbia – has been an overland trade route. Over the millennia, it's seen the exchange of goods such as jade, copper, basketry, food, hides, obsidian and the highly valued commodity the trail was named for: the nutritious oil or \"grease\" of the small eulachon fish that continues to be a delicacy among First Nations people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zszy4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETaking my first steps on the ancient pathway in the Bella Coola Valley, I half expected to feel something transcendent; echoes of the past perhaps. In 1793, this was the last section of the route that carried the first European, Alexander Mackenzie, from Montreal across what's now known as Canada to the Pacific Ocean – constituting the first known transcontinental crossing of the Americas north of Mexico. This \"great road\" as Mackenzie called the trail in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gutenberg.org\u002Febooks\u002F35659\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehis journal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"was very good and well traced\". It was also well populated. And as I hiked, I imagined encountering one of the Ulkatcho families he wrote of, who were heading \"to the great river to fish\"; or maybe a group of young Dene men on a trade journey. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClimbing upward, I left the valley's monumental cedars behind and entered a forest of stunted trees and bright green moss. By my thousandth (or so) uphill footstep, the forest around me had thinned and the past felt ever present. Stepping out of the woods and into a clearing, Mackenzie's 228-year-old words predicted the view: \"Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was lost in the clouds.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA hiking trail is a little like an unfolding story. And, like many stories, my hike had a prologue. I'd been sitting on a beach in the Broughton Archipelago, 200km south of Bella Coola, after spending the day spotting orcas and visiting long-abandoned Mamalilikulla First Nation villages. Sifting my fingers through the sun-warmed sand, I'd come up with an unexpected prize: a small, glassy shard of obsidian. Digging back in, I was soon inspecting a growing pile of volcanic glass. A kayaking mate declared the obsidian was from the area's many overland \"grease trails\", a term I was only vaguely familiar with.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zt0lv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to archaeologist Joanne Hammond, the scattering of obsidian flakes I'd found is known as debitage (waste flakes from tool making) and they are pretty widespread. \"You're looking at close to 15,000 years of continuous occupation on the [British Columbia] coast, that's upwards of 500 generations of people making stone tools. That leaves a lot of stone tool debris around,\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are no volcanoes in the Broughton Archipelago, but Hammond explained this is where the grease trails come in. \"Despite the fact there's only a few sources; obsidian was widely traded across all of BC. You can even find north-western obsidian in eastern Canada,\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurious about the path the obsidian must have taken, I made a plan to hike a grease trail. The most obvious contender was the Nuxalk-Carrier. It starts at what was once the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcanada\u002Fbritish-columbia\u002Fbella-coola-eulachon-grease-project-revives-tradition-1.4722780\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elargest eulachon run\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the region (the Bella Coola River), and traverses what are now known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Ftweeds_s\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETweedsmuir (South)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Fkluskoil_lk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKluskoil \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Fkluskoil_lk\u002F\"\u003ELake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Provincial Parks to reach \u003Cem\u003EBesbut'a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or Anahim Peak, one of only two locations in British Columbia where obsidian is found. From there, it continues to the Blackwater River, just west of the city of Quesnel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of the US vacation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210714-transcaucasian-trail-a-new-route-between-europe-and-asia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new hiking route between Europe and Asia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210504-the-plan-to-connect-every-british-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe plan to connect every British town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy other reason for choosing the Nuxalk-Carrier is that, unlike so many other grease trails, it still exists. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile no-one knows the exact number of these ancient trade routes that once crisscrossed British Columbia, it is believed there were hundreds of them. But according to Hammond, they have now mostly vanished, and only a handful are in their traditional state. \"The smallpox epidemic of 1862 to '63 was conducted along the same trade routes that had provided Indigenous people with wealth and commodities,\" she said. The epidemic killed an estimated 60-90% of a population that was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ictinc.ca\u002Fblog\u002Fthe-impact-of-smallpox-on-first-nations-on-the-west-coast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econservatively estimated at 200,000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and according to Canadian magazine \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macleans.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcanada\u002Fhow-a-smallpox-epidemic-forged-modern-british-columbia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaclean's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it resulted in \"a crisis that left mass graves, deserted villages, traumatized survivors and societal collapse and, in a real way, created the conditions for modern-day British Columbia\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zt1sh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the Indigenous population gone from their land, \"those trails disappeared,\" Hammond said. And as far as the trails that remained, \"impacts from industrial forestry have pretty much wiped out 90% of them.\" As for the rest, \"some trails were well established enough that when the Europeans and Americans first showed up, they were the obvious way to go. So, they were very heavily used.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst came the fur trappers who turned some of the remaining grease trails into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca\u002Fen\u002Ftimeline\u002Fthe-fur-trade\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efur brigade trails\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, connecting northern British Columbia with the Columbia River. Next came the gold rush, with the many prospectors who fanned out across British Columbia using these well-worn paths. Later many of the routes, which were usually the easiest way across plateaus, highlands and mountain ranges, were replaced by the railways and wagon routes that brought westward migrating settlers, creating the conditions for British Columbia to join Canada in 1871. Over the decades to come, the original usage of the trails was all but forgotten. \"Now many of them are provincial highways,\" Hammond said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELynda Price, Chief of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ulkatcho.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUlkatcho First Nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is aware of how rare it is to still have a grease trail in her territory. She explained that the trails and her culture have always been interconnected. Not only is her own heritage a mixture of the Nations found along the Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail, but her Nuxalk ancestors were traders who knew all the trails. When explorers, including Mackenzie, reached their territory, they acted as guides. \"You could say we have a tourism tradition that goes back to Mackenzie,\" Price said of the trail's first unofficial tourist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zt2bb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1985, the old Nuxalk-Carrier Trail was redesignated as the Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail – a name that excluded the six First Nations (the Nuxalk, Ulkatcho, Lhoosk’uz Dene, Lhtako Dene, Nazko and Lheidli T’enneh) who'd established it millennia before Mackenzie followed its course and subsequently received a knighthood from King George III. And while local tourism bodies initially hoped it could be the next great long-distance hike, there was remarkably little outside interest in actually doing the work to save the 6,000-year-old pathway. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Price, parts of the Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail had been steadily disappearing for decades. Even as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgreasetrail.com\u002Ftrail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eelder stories \u003C\u002Fa\u003Erevealed how members of her Nation continued to use it \"as a trail connecting several sacred sites including fishing and hunting spots as well as crematory and spiritual sites\", forestry roads, logging and forest fires had made sections of the path impassable. Since other portions of the trail had been turned into roads, through-hiking – already a three-week endeavour – became more challenging. As a result, shorter day hikes, guided packhorse journeys and weekend backpacking trips on the better-preserved sections became the norm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Local communities are hoping that this trail, which sustained them in the past, can offer a path into the future","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, the increasing effects of climate change have meant resource-based communities like the Ulkatcho First Nation are looking at expanding their economies away from logging. As a result, local communities are hoping that this trail, which sustained them in the past, can offer a path into the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EForming an Elder's Council in 2011, the six Nations that share the trail began looking for ways to preserve its legacy by seeking out funding, partnering with the provincial parks and engaging in\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnitep.educ.ubc.ca\u002Ffield-centres\u002Fwilliams-lake-quesnel\u002Fgreasetrail\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E storytelling projects\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help educate people about the trail's cultural value. The next step has been to get the trail back in shape. For the past three years, Price says her Nation has been clearing and rebuilding the trail, adding signage, reestablishing traditional place names and recording sacred archaeological sites. \"We now have young people who are looking at starting tourism businesses based on the trail,\" she said. The goal, she added, is to once again manage the territory and invite visitors in to explore it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor now, hikers who don't want to carry a pack and camp in the backcountry can stay in lodges in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flandwithoutlimits.com\u002Fpartners\u002Fnusatsum-river-guest-house\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBella Coola\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flandwithoutlimits.com\u002Fpartners\u002Ftweedsmuir-park-lodge\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETweedsmuir Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and do day hikes, or participate in one of the tours and programmes with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbellacoola.ca\u002Fportfolio\u002Ffirst-nations\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Nuxalk Nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There is also a wide range of frontcountry campsites in the region, and several of the communities, such as in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flandwithoutlimits.com\u002Fpartners\u002Fanahim-lake-resort\u002F?gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbb40N99AM14edPK6RABnPsRz697ereWNdywHZ6At2-zhs8sfzJ5b8hoC9LgQAvD_BwE\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnahim Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travel-british-columbia.com\u002Fcariboo-chilcotin-coast\u002Fcariboo\u002Fquesnel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuesnel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, offer lodging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zt37z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I continued my hike, I switch-backed down into a valley set deep in the woods. There, it was almost possible to imagine the grease trail winding on through the forests, across rivers and into the rainbow-coloured high plateaus, just as it had for millennia. Even as I followed the same path that traders, travellers and Canada's early settlers did, I knew this ancient trail had scars. But I also knew that, like its stewards, it's enduring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, I already have my next hike planned on the trail: I'm headed north to the Anahim Peak, the likely origin of the obsidian I found. According to Price, the elders once had a special campsite near the source of the sacred black rock, and like the trail itself, it had always lured travellers. \"People would have come from there from all around,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:32:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The little-known hiking trail that built Canada","headlineShort":"Canada's 6,000-year-old 'Silk Road'","image":["p09zswgq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.3896","longitude":"128.9304","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09zswgq"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It was used by First Nations, fur traders and early westward-migrating settlers. Now, local communities are hoping it could become the world's next great long-distance hike.","summaryShort":"It helped forge Canada, and could be the world's next great long-distance hike","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T21:42:29.025265Z","entity":"article","guid":"3d7e9481-e525-4817-8958-d459174810a3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-25T11:12:24.135867Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660792},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public","_id":"616ff65445ceed1bc8428f65","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"“Free-body culture” promotes harmony with nature, and today some Germans sunbathe nude, strip down to play sports and even hike in the buff.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter four years of living in Berlin, I’ve learned to embrace Germany’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanything-goes sprit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and more casual approach to nudity than where I grew up in the Midwestern US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You never forget your first time confronted by public nudity","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile nudity in mainstream American culture is generally considered to be sexual, here in Germany, stripping down isn’t uncommon in certain everyday situations. I’ve grown used to nude-by-default saunas; taken dips in pools where swimming suits were birthday suits; and surprised a massage therapist when I disrobed unprompted before a treatment, leading him to remark that Americans usually need to be asked to take off their clothes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut, as the saying kind of goes, you never forget your first time confronted by public nudity. My introduction came during a jog through Hasenheide, a park in Berlin’s southern Neukölln district, when I came across a cluster of nude bodies taking in the bright afternoon sun. Later, after speaking with friends and acquiring a fairly questionable Google search history, I found out that stumbling across an au naturel enclave in a city park or beach is practically a rite of passage in Berlin.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Stripping down to your essence in the natural world has historically been an act of both resistance and relief","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat I’d seen wasn’t part of Berlin’s hedonistic side, however, but an example of \u003Cem\u003EFreikörperkultur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or “free-body culture”. FKK, as it’s usually shortened to, is associated closely with life in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Ftopics\u002FHistory_of_East_Germany\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGerman Democratic Republic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (East Germany or “GDR”), but nudism in Germany as a public practice stretches back to the late 19th Century. And unlike, say, taking off your top at a beach in Spain, FKK encompasses a broader German movement with a distinct spirit, where stripping down to your essence in the natural world has historically been an act of both resistance and relief.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nudism has had a long tradition in Germany,” said Arnd Bauerkämper, associate professor of modern history at Freie University in Berlin. At the turn of the 20th Century, \u003Cem\u003ELebensreform\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“life reform”) was in the air, a philosophy that advocated for organic food, sexual liberation, alternative medicine and simpler living closer to nature. “Nudism is part of this broader movement, which was directed against industrial modernity, against the new society that emerged in the late 19th Century,” Bauerkämper said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Hanno Hochmuth, a historian at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fzzf-potsdam.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeibniz Centre for Contemporary History Potsdam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this reform movement took particular hold in larger cities, including Berlin, despite its romanticising of country living. During the Weimar Era (1918-1933), FKK beaches populated by “a very, very small minority” of sunbathing members of the bourgeois sprang up. According to Bauerkämper, there was a “sense of new freedom after the authoritarian society and suffocating conservative values of Imperial Germany (1871 to 1918).”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1926, Alfred Koch founded the Berlin School of Nudism to encourage mixed-gender nudist exercise, continuing the belief that outdoor nudity promoted harmony with nature and wellness benefits. And while Nazi ideology initially prohibited FKK, viewing it as a spring of immorality, by 1942 the Third Reich had softened its public nudity restrictions – though, of course, that tolerance wasn’t extended to groups the Nazis persecuted, like Jews and communists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat makes Germans so orderly?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190814-the-birthplace-of-modern-nature-healing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of modern nature healing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191106-the-german-village-split-by-a-wall\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe German village split by a wall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn’t until the decades after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-17299607\"\u003EGermany’s post-war division\u003C\u002Fa\u003E into East and West that FKK really blossomed, particularly in the East – though embracing getting naked was no longer restricted to the bourgeois class. For Germans living in the communist GDR, where travel, personal liberties and sales of consumer goods were curtailed, FKK functioned in part as a “safety valve,” according to Bauerkämper; a way to let off tension in a deeply restrictive state by providing a bit of “free movement”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHochmuth, who visited nude beaches with his parents as a child growing up in East Berlin agrees. “There was some sense of escapism,” he said. “[East Germans] were always exposed to all these demands of the Communist Party and what they had to do, like going to party rallies or being asked to perform communal tasks on weekends without pay.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There was some sense of escapism","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile rogue East Germans continued bathing in the buff in the GDR’s early years – while keeping an eye out for patrolling policemen – it wasn’t until after Erich Honecker took power in 1971 that FKK would officially be allowed again. According to Bauerkämper, under Honecker the GDR began a process of opening up foreign and domestic policies, a tactic meant to make itself look more favourable to the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“For the GDR it was quite useful to argue that, ‘OK, we are allowing and even encouraging nudism, we are kind of a free society’,” said Bauerkämper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince East Germany merged with the larger West in 1990 and restrictions lifted in the former communist state, FKK culture has declined. In the 1970s and ‘80s, hundreds of thousands of nudists packed campgrounds, beaches and parks. In 2019, the German Association for Free Body Culture counted only 30,000-plus registered members – many of whom were in their 50s and 60s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet today, FKK continues to leave an impression on German culture, particularly in the former East. It even manages to make the occasional viral headline, such as when a naked man in an FKK-designated area at a Berlin lake this summer was forced to give \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-53692475\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echase to a wild boar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that had run off with a bag containing his laptop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, FKK and Germany’s longer tradition of nudism has left a widespread tolerance across the country for clothing-free spaces and public nudity as a form of wellness. As I discovered, FKK spaces can still be found without looking too hard, and they’re often tied to health pursuits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you are used to seeing people naked, you don’t give much thought about appearances","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe listings site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nacktbaden.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENacktbaden.de\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers a well-organised list of beaches and parks throughout Germany where you can sunbathe nude; strip down at saunas and spas; or go for hikes in the buff in places like the Harz Mountains, Bavarian Alps or the forests of Saxony-Anhalt. Or, if you want to be a bit more formal about it, the sporting club \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adolf-koch.de\u002Fen_gb\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFSV Adolf Koch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers nude yoga, volleyball, badminton and table tennis in Berlin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn many ways, the FKK legacy gives travellers an insight into values that still unite many East Germans. For Sylva Sternkopf, who grew up going to FKK beaches in East Germany, the country’s free-body culture has both reflected and imparted certain values that she’s passing down to her children, particularly the country’s open-mindedness towards their own bodies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I think this is still very deeply rooted in my generation in East Germany,” she said. “I also try to give this on to my children, to raise them in this way of being open towards your own body and not being ashamed of being yourself and being naked, of showing yourself naked.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Sternkopf, seeing nude bodies in a non-sexualised way also helps people learn to see others beyond their outer appearances. By baring it all, it makes it easier to see not just a body, but the individual. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you are used to seeing people naked, you don’t give much thought about appearances,” she said. “I think this is something that is more widespread in East Germany in general: we try to judge people not for their outer appearance, but we always try to look underneath.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-09T22:23:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why Germans love getting naked in public","headlineShort":"The country that loves public nudity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"“Free-body culture” promotes harmony with nature, and today some Germans sunbathe nude, strip down to play sports and even hike in the buff.","summaryShort":"It is home to nude sports leagues, hiking trails, beaches and parks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-11-08T22:28:42.641797Z","entity":"article","guid":"e8ab04a9-3379-490c-b450-cfcce00be2e7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:57:45.649077Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly","_id":"616ff66045ceed2f5938674e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For centuries, Germany has been synonymous with order. So how can a rule-abiding nation also have an anything-goes spirit?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the high-speed train gliding smoothly from Berlin to Düsseldorf, a young man started chatting to me. He eventually asked, “What are some of the cultural differences you’ve noticed between Germans and Americans?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs if on cue, a middle-aged woman hovered over us and gave a harsh, “Shh!” with her finger pressed against her lips. She pointed to a sign of a mobile phone with a cross through it, indicating that we were in the \u003Cem\u003ERuhebereich\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the quiet carriage of the train.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You must be quiet,” she said, before returning to her seat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That,” I said to the man sitting next to me. “That’s different.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the nearly four years I’ve lived in Germany, that woman’s reprimand was just one of many examples I’ve experienced of Germans strictly adhering to the rules in the name of preserving \u003Cem\u003EOrdnung\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (order). Because in Germany, as the famous expression goes, “\u003Cem\u003EOrdnung muss sein\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (“there must be order”). In fact, this proverbial saying is so well-ingrained in the German psyche that it’s become a cultural cliché for Germans around the world, and a way of life for them at home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This proverbial saying is so well-ingrained in the German psyche that it’s become a cultural cliché for Germans around the world, and a way of life for them at home","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Germany, your brown bottles must be recycled separately from your clear ones. You must be quiet after 22:00. You must always obey the red man at a crossing, even if no cars are coming. And if you want to get anything done in this country, you need to print and fill out the proper forms, make an appointment, take your number and wait to be called to find out if you followed the rules or missed something in the fine print – which you probably did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the surface, “Ordnung muss sein” seems to be the foundation of German personal and social conduct. But, stereotypes aside, is Germany really “orderly”?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with many things “German”, the answer may go back to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171023-how-martin-luthers-ideas-lasted-500-years\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartin Luther\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In addition to forever changing how Germany (and the world) worships, many of the humble Reformationist’s personal preferences (from a love of beer to books to severe Bauhaus-inspiring design) have continued to shape German culture for the last 500 years. In fact, according to volume 67 of his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.de\u002Fbooks?id=egARAAAAIAAJ&dq=%22ordnung%20mu%C3%9F%20sein%22%20%22martin%20luther%22&pg=PA58#v=onepage&q=%22ordnung%20mu%C3%9F%20sein%22%20%22martin%20luther%22&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESämmtliche Werke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E text, it was the jowly monk himself who appears to have first written the earliest iteration of the expression.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"'Ordnung' is in the water supply","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELuther wrote, “\u003Cem\u003EOrdnung muss sein unter den Leuten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (literally: “There must be order among the people”). But Dr Wolfram Pyta, director of the Department of Modern History at the University of Stuttgart, contends that Luther wasn’t referring to the virtue highlighted in the contemporary use of “Ordnung muss sein”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Luther called for obedience to authority in his theological writings,” said Pyta. “But this isn't identical with … the expression ‘Ordnung muss sein’, which isn’t necessarily aimed at state order, but rather at order in one’s private life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there's not much documentation of the phrase in the centuries after Luther, a 1930 article published in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1930\u002F11\u002F09\u002Farchives\u002Fgerman-pilots-course-is-a-long-hard-grind-work-at-transport-school.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe New York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E claimed that Paul von Hindenburg, the last president of the Weimar Republic, had made the phrase “world famous”. The expression became further tied to German culture when Hindenburg graced the cover of TIME magazine in 1934 with the exclamation “Ordnung muss sein!” printed underneath his photo. The cover story, \"Germany: Crux of Crisis\", quotes Hindenburg shouting his “useful aphorism which serves him on all occasions” at Adolf Hitler while discussing politics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180213-in-germany-the-worlds-most-romantic-postbox\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's most romantic postbox\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191106-the-german-village-split-by-a-wall\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe German village split by a wall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Order is considered to be a Prussian value on equal standing with fulfilling obligations, punctuality, hard work and honesty,” said Christina Röttgers, a German culture expert who helps international companies understand the German mindset to work with them effectively.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Order is considered to be a Prussian value on equal standing with fulfilling obligations, punctuality, hard work and honesty","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhatever the expression’s true origins, “Ordnung muss sein” is certainly embedded within the fabric of German society. But interestingly, Germans don’t discuss it, because according to Röttgers, the values and rules associated with it have already been internalised. Nobody needs to talk about the rules because it’s assumed everyone already knows them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Ordnung is in the water supply,” quipped Joachim Krüger, a German professor of psychology at Brown University. “Every child learns this saying in the context of cleaning their room,” added Röttgers. “For Germans themselves, it's part of their everyday lives, but they don't think about it any more than someone thinks about grammar while they’re speaking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVerena Netscher, a personnel consultant from Cologne, agreed. “I think it’s something that exists in the minds of people in Germany,” she said. “But I don’t think anyone is especially striving to achieve this ideal.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAround the country, every German I asked agreed with Netscher’s sentiments. “There’s order and that’s a good thing,” Lukas Pietrek, a law student in Düsseldorf, wrote to me. “But a lot of people are nevertheless too orderly and stuffy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENeedless to say, Ordnung has slipped into everyday German vocabulary. If you seem distraught, a passerby might ask, “Alles in Ordnung?”. In English, that’s, “Are you OK?”, but literally, they’re asking, “Is everything in order?”. If everything is as it should be, then you’re “in Ordnung”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s also stitched on uniforms of the men and women who work for the \u003Cem\u003EOrdnungsamt\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Germany’s Public Order Office). This is essentially a special police force that focuses on misdemeanours, which in Germany includes playing loud music during quiet hours, parking violations and enforcing when and how long your dog is allowed to bark (10 minutes at a time and no more than 30 minutes a day outside of quiet hours, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhund-bellt.de\u002Fwie-lange-duerfen-hunde-bellen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecourt decision\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). If you’re caught on the wrong side of the Ordnungsamt, you’ll get an \u003Cem\u003EOrdnungswidrigkeit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a misdemeanour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, whenever you mention “Ordnung muss sein”, Germans are quick to mention another expression, “\u003Cem\u003EOrdnung ist das halbe Leben\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (“Order is half of life”). And when they tack on the rest of the expression, it turns Germans’ trademark tidiness on its head: “\u003Cem\u003EUnordnung die andere Hälfte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (“And disorder the other half”).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENobody will deny that there are splashes of disorder in Germany. Commuters across the country burst onto trains before people have a chance to get out; people routinely vandalise rubbish bins bearing the word, “Ordnung!” on them; and the nation’s “newest” airport is finally \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-52470012\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eset for take off\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in October after a nine-year delay due to design flaws, scandals and general chaos.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, for more than 100 years – from the hedonistic parties of the Weimar Republic to the boho-squat raves before unification to the techno temples of today – my home of Berlin has been renowned around the world as an anything-goes lab of cultural experimentation. Nearly 20 years after the city’s former mayor called it “poor but sexy”, people from around the world still move here precisely to free themselves of rigid life plans and to be whoever and whatever they want without a judgmental glance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut even in a city legendary for its libertine tolerance and anarchistic spirit, there are still strict, unwritten rules. Want to grab spray paint and tag part of the Berlin Wall? There’s a designated section of Mauerpark where you can do that. Want to go au natural? There are unmarked swaths of the city’s central Tiergarten park and surrounding lakes where clothing is severely frowned upon. And want to do drugs and have sex with strangers? No-one will bat an eye at most Berlin clubs – so long as you do your business in the right room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBerlin may be a special beast, but the deeper you dive, the more you’ll see this carefree cultural attitude across Germany. Frankfurt has its growing \u003Cem\u003EBahnhofsviertel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E neighbourhood full of brothels and clubs. Hamburg’s St Pauli area is one of Europe’s most raucous red-light districts. Even the most conservative corners of Bavaria and the former East Germany embrace the \u003Cem\u003EFreikörperkultur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (free-body culture) of relaxing in the buff at certain campsites, beaches and resorts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, each of these examples still fits neatly within Germany’s specific sense of order: it’s less about banning certain things and more about making sure you’re doing them in the proper, assigned place. Chat softly on the quiet carriage of a train and you’re likely to get scolded. But drink a beer on Berlin’s subway and no-one will say a word because of another unwritten rule that public drinking – and even public transit drinking – is generally deemed acceptable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Most hold themselves to the rules because they've learned that the rules are reasonable,” explained Röttgers. “But everyone has their own interpretation of the rules because people are individuals.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf course, if you run afoul of someone’s interpretation of the rules, many strangers may gladly let you know that you’ve disrupted their Ordnung. “Germans aren't shy about pointing out when others break the rules,” said Röttgers. “Strangers will rebuke you because there’s an expectation that everyone will follow the rules.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat explains why a neighbour of mine shared a video of how to properly deconstruct a cardboard box for the recycling bin in my apartment building’s WhatsApp chat. “In five seconds, a box is made small. If I can do it, you all can, too.” The message was signed with a kissy-face emoji.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut on the whole, German order is rather pragmatic. “Ordnung muss sein” doesn’t mean building a false reality. It means Germans demand that systems are in place to prevent the worst from happening, like \u003Cem\u003EKurzarbeit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (short work) – a programme that allows businesses to decrease the hours of their employees during times of crisis (like the 2008 financial crash and the ongoing coronavirus pandemic) and the government will pay 60% of the remaining salary to avoid mass unemployment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving travelled extensively through all of Germany’s 16 states, I have seen Ordnung operate swiftly and smoothly, from the Black Forest to the Baltic Sea. But I’ve also seen Germans throwing this order overboard at “acceptable” times – be it embracing their carnal core at Carnival, screaming at hordes of armoured guards at football matches or launching fireworks from crowded streets and balconies on New Year’s Eve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the end, Germany – like any country – is more than just one phrase.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are a lot of expressions that, when put together, build a picture of a culture,” Röttgers said. “‘Ordnung muss sein’ is just an excerpt.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow if you’ll excuse me, I have some cardboard boxes to “make small” and ensure my dog isn’t barking more than his daily allotted limit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-01T22:37:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What makes Germans so orderly?","headlineShort":"The world's most orderly nation?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For centuries, Germany has been synonymous with order. So how can a rule-abiding nation also have an anything-goes spirit?","summaryShort":"For a country synonymous with rules, Germany also has an anarchistic streak","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-05-31T21:44:56.482671Z","entity":"article","guid":"3588641b-b85d-4d61-95a5-166130ab870d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:45:12.310978Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture","_id":"616ff62d45ceed1f61758b53","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As the world bunkers in, the unique cultural ways that countries are coping with the coronavirus pandemic is revealing a lot about about each nation's distinct character.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s been said that a person’s true character is revealed in a crisis – and if the coronavirus pandemic has taught us anything so far, the same can be said for a country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the world increasingly bunkers in to help slow the virus’ spread, one of the most interesting phenomena taking place is the creative, quirky and inspiring ways that different cities and countries are coping with the pandemic and defining their own distinct “quarantine culture” along the way. In \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200325-italys-inspiring-response-to-the-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, self-isolating residents have been filmed belting opera from their balconies. In Belgium, the nation’s iconic \u003Cem\u003Efriteries\u003C\u002Fem\u003E are still doling out French fries. And throughout Scandinavia, some people are still pedalling to work on bikes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn many ways, this global pandemic is laying bare what really matters to different nations, and in the process, revealing a lot about a country’s character. It’s also reminding us of the many people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe recently asked a few of our contributors to talk about the emerging quarantine cultures where they live.\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFrance \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat is France without its boulangeries? While the beret may have fallen out of fashion, the traditional \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench baguette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E never will – not even in a pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFollowing Italy’s lead, the French government here in Paris has imposed strict lockdown measures which require anyone leaving their home to produce a signed form justifying why they’re outside. It has also shuttered all “non-essential” businesses. But while supermarkets and chemists have remained running in this time of need, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.legifrance.gouv.fr\u002FaffichTexte.do;jsessionid=0988773243DDED4434CBFE85C9B0A44A.tplgfr36s_2?cidTexte=JORFTEXT000041723302&dateTexte=&oldAction=rechJO&categorieLien=id&idJO=JORFCONT000041723291\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eofficial decree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E issued by the French Health Ministry lists some 40 exceptions that are also deemed “indispensable for the continuity of the life of the nation” – including boulangeries, butchers, wine and cheese shops and the much-beloved \u003Cem\u003Etabac\u003C\u002Fem\u003E corner stores.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, every morning from Paris to Provence, the scent of freshly baked bread wafts through France’s empty streets as some 33,000 bakeries throughout mainland France remain open. At my local boulangerie, neighbours continue their daily routine of picking up a fresh baguette, ensuring a safe social distance from one another.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dominique Anract, president of the National Confederation of French Patisseries and Bakeries (CNPBF), “the baguette is emblematic of French culture.” Anract explained the vital role boulangeries play in a French person’s life. “The first place you visit as a small child is the boulangerie to buy bread. While for the elderly, the only human contact during the day is often with the local \u003Cem\u003Eboulanger\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (baker).”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200325-italys-inspiring-response-to-the-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's inspiring response to the coronavirus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200323-the-travel-ache-you-cant-translate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe travel 'ache' you can't translate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200324-your-questions-answered-how-covid-19-has-affected-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYour questions answered: how Covid-19 has affected travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo Anract, the decision to keep bakeries open in a pandemic makes perfect sense. “Boulangeries are a basic necessity for feeding the French people, many of whom don’t live in close proximity to supermarkets.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHere in Paris, wine seems to be just as valuable as hand sanitizer these days. “The French cannot consider having a good meal without drinking wine. It’s like a meal without bread,” said Thierry Givone, a French wine instructor who runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.wine-tasting-in-paris.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWine Tasting In Paris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Some local wine shops have even started delivering “survival packs” of six or 12 bottles to quarantined residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOur newfound embrace of social distancing may interrupt the cheek-kiss practice of \u003Cem\u003Ebises\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, but no pandemic will deny us of our joyful joie de vivre spirit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Kasia Dietz \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGermany\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBerlin’s nightlife is nothing short of legendary. Over the decades, clubs like Tresor and Berghain have cemented the city’s status as the holy grail for hedonists everywhere, and the world capital of techno. But with the German government recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-51999080\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebanning meetings of more than two people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and even Chancellor Angela Merkel retreating to self-isolation, the question of where to party here on a Friday (or Tuesday, or Sunday) night has just one answer: home. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEnter \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funitedwestream.berlin\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnited We Stream\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (UWS). This government-backed initiative from Berlin’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clubcommission.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClubCommission\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an association of around 245 independent clubs and concert venues, is keeping the party alive via daily livestreamed DJ sets from the club floor as ravers self-isolate. Although we’d usually queue outside of a club at 02:00 or later here, the livestreams are held from 19:00 to midnight and viewers are also encouraged to \u003Cspan\u003Edonate\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E to help support the quarantine-affected clubs and artists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“This UWS online party demonstrates a deep solidarity among the Berlin clubs that we are all in the same boat,” said Dimitri Hegemann, who founded Tresor in 1991.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt may be unusual to have a night \u003Cem\u003Ein \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eat the club, but for Berliner Kaisa Berger, the chance to listen to her favourite DJs spin while sitting on her couch in her pyjamas as her dog snoozed next to her is the best of both worlds. “I really enjoyed my ‘party’. At some point, I was even dancing around my living room,” she said. “And then at midnight, the stream ends, and you can go to sleep and wake up the next day refreshed, ready for the next virtual club visit at 19:00 again.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERaquel Fedato, who organises the popular Berlin party Pornceptual sees UWS as a way for the community to come together. She and her partner recently livestreamed a set from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falte-muenze-berlin.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlte Münze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a club in Mitte where Pornceptual is held. “Seeing our DJ friends play again was an uplifting experience,” she said. “While it is still somewhat odd to dance in front of a screen, it took my head off the odd times we are going through.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStrange times though they are, the spirit of Berlin’s nightlife isn’t going away anytime soon – at least not while people can virtually come together. And once the pandemic is over? “In the long term I don’t know what will happen,” said Hegemann. “But I know after [Covid-19], people will take off, and the party won’t stop.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Krystin Arneson\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIndia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn an effort to slow the spread of coronavirus, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi announced a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-52027745\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E21-day lockdown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the world’s second-most populous country this week, ordering a nation of 1.3 billion people to stay indoors. People are still struggling to understand the ramifications of the lockdown and how to meet their essential shopping and medical needs, but in a country accustomed to bidets, so far, we have not been hoarding toilet paper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShortly after Modi’s announcement, India’s most famous celebrity couple – Indian cricket captain Virat Kohli and his beloved Bollywood actress wife, Anushka Sharma – took to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FimVkohli\u002Fstatus\u002F1242670175276556289\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to tell their legion of 55 million combined followers to “follow what’s been told to us and stand united.” Yet, what may be hardest for Indians these next three weeks is learning how to – literally – stand divided.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, we Indians may have many sterling qualities, but queuing up is not one of them. In a country with so many people, the notion of personal space is practically non-existent. And as anyone who has visited here knows, a straight line is usually a circle with dozens of strangers huddling together and shouting over each other to be heard at a shop counter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, amid the lockdown, supermarkets have started trying to teach Indians how to stand apart at a safe distance and proceed on a first-come-first-served basis by drawing numbered circles with chalk outside of shops. In the state of West Bengal, the Chief Minister \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ndtv.com\u002Findia-news\u002Fcoronavirus-lockdown-india-no-words-says-derek-obrien-on-mamata-banerjees-social-distancing-lesson-2201231\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMamata Banerjee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E even paid an unplanned visit to the local market to draw circles on the road herself and explain the concept of social distancing to the masses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EQueuing isn’t the only lesson we’re learning. For the past few days, anyone making a phone call in India has had to first listen to a recorded message about the importance of covering your mouth while coughing and washing your hands. But if this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-india-51957656\u002Findian-policemen-do-coronavirus-handwashing-dance\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eviral video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from the Kerala Police Department proves anything, it’s that we find the importance of hand hygiene much more delightful when it’s accompanied with an elaborately choreographed Bollywood-style song and dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Charukesi Ramadurai \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBritain\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven in an age of wellness booze and so-called “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-51833135\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enolo beer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” (no- and low-alcoholic drinks), the British pub remains as it always has been: a bastion of long-held traditions with atmosphere, ale and – of course – a lack of elbow room and social distancing. Why fix what ain’t broken? As UK Prime Minister and recent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Flive\u002Fworld-52058788\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovid-19 infectee Boris Johnson\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently said, it’s an inalienable, free-born right for us Brits “to go to the pub”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe coronavirus pandemic has put paid to all that. Boozers rang last orders on Friday 20 March and us frazzled Brits are having to be far more creative when it comes to post-work pints. But with apps like WhatsApp, Skype, Zoom and HouseParty giving us a platform to bevy and banter online with friends from St Ives to Swansea to Shetland, the age of digital drinking and the virtual happy hour has been born. One such pub, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F933986643684689\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJim the Janny’s Virtual Pub\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, based in Dundee, now has nearly 13,000 patrons and counting and is fine company of an evening.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd so, we’ve embraced the virtual birthday party, the online stag do and on-screen pub quiz. The Lancashire-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-lancashire-52065425\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVirtual Pub Quiz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for one, saw a world-enlarging 340,000 interested in taking part this week. Our latest digital baptism? \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fsearch?q=%23CovidCeilidh&src=typed_query\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Covid ceilidh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a traditional Scots gathering of folk music and Highland dancing, encouraging fiddlers, bagpipe players and accordionists to strike up the band at home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, what are you doing this lockdown weekend? There’s still time to open your own virtual pub, or you can jig to a Flying Scotsman, Gay Gordons or Highland Barn Dance. Me? I’ll be attending my first digital happy hour Saturday night with 12 friends from across Glasgow and Edinburgh. Not needing an excuse these days, we’ll take any spirit raiser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Mike MacEacheran\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf there is perhaps one tradition that combines Australians’ love for the outdoors, laid-back attitude and knack for surviving on an island swarming with crocodiles, sharks and deadly snakes and spiders, it’s Easter camping. Normally this time of year, hordes of Aussies would be preparing to spend the holiday weekend barbecuing around a campfire with friends and family before our cold winter settles in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Easter holidays may have been cancelled as the country \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-51992357\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eretreats indoors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but we Australians are an inventive bunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis week, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLetsGoCaravanCamping\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Caravan Industry of Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has started encouraging the more than 300,000 people who would otherwise be setting up camp over the Easter weekend to pitch a tent in their backyards (or living rooms) instead. Indoor campers can marvel at Australia’s wildlife via livestreams from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkoala.net\u002Fwebcams\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELone Pine Koala Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyoutu.be\u002FMNJsIXP8GgE\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMelbourne Zoo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ffacebook.com\u002FCairnsZoom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaPTA Group Wildlife Parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Queensland. And all Aussies can still enjoy that most iconic of Australian pastimes, backyard cricket, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cricket.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECricket Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E simulating matches and developing tips to ensure that future-world-champion Aussie kids maintain their form.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDown under, Covid-19 has largely confined many of us to our homes, but during an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftv\u002FB-KuZNUh6Kv\u002F?igshid=1682926a0jaav\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eimpromptu balcony rendition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of I Still Call Australia Home we’ve been reminded by Opera Australia performers Tom Hamilton and Tomas Dalton that it’s really not a bad place to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Catherine Marshall\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKorea\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBetween its bustling night markets, round-the-clock work schedules and seemingly indefatigable smartphone culture, Seoul is an unlikely capital for a country known as the Land of the Morning Calm. But during the last several weeks, South Korea’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-52001837\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaggressive social distancing measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have inspired a sweet, serenity-inducing global trend: the rise of soothing online videos showing how to make Korean \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Farticles\u002Fdalgona_coffee\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Edalgona\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESocialising in South Korea often means meeting up at a cafe, and according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-southkorea-coffee-idUSKCN0X12GF\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReuters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the nation actually has one of the \u003Cspan\u003Ehighest \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Edensities of \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Ecoffee shops per capita\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E in the world. But with fewer people out, Koreans have instead opted to recreate our cafe culture at home by uploading tutorials of how we whip instant coffee with sugar, milk and ice to make a fluffy, peanut-butter-coloured coffee known locally as dalgona.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftrends.google.com\u002Ftrends\u002Fexplore?q=Dalonga&geo=US\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoogle Trends\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this online craze started frothing higher and higher in late February. And as more people around the globe have been stuck at home making coffee themselves, more and more people around the world have been trying to whip Korean coffee themselves. There are now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=oENpvyppGEw\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EASMR-style dalgona videos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with 3.5 million views, a global #\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fsearch?q=%23dalgonacoffeechallenge&src=typeahead_click\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edalgonacoffeechallenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Twitter and more than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002Ftag\u002Fdalgonacoffee\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E64 million views\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the hashtag on TikTok.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe only thing sweeter than the dalgona coffees here may be the trend of leaving handwritten thank-you notes – sometimes accompanied with small gifts – that we have been giving to our nation’s hardworking delivery workers. In Korean culture, a handwritten thank you is a deeper sign of gratitude than a verbal or emailed thank you. The Korea Times once quoted a member of a Korean linguistic association as saying, “our ancestors believed handwritten letters showed a person’s emotions.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf the thousands of Instagram images showing handwritten thank-you notes and prayers in Korean for delivery men and women, one of the most popular phrases so far is, “I hope there are no more victims of the coronavirus.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E- Hahna Yoon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fneighbourly-love\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fneighbourly-love\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENeighbourly love\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis an uplifting and emotionally engaging BBC Travel series that shows how acts of generosity can have profound effects in destinations around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-28T13:39:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What coronavirus reveals about the world's culture","headlineShort":"How 6 countries are quarantining","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As the world bunkers in, the unique cultural ways that countries are coping with the coronavirus pandemic is revealing a lot about about each nation's distinct character.","summaryShort":"Some shops in France are delivering “survival packs” of wine","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-03-27T20:27:37.394201Z","entity":"article","guid":"119ce57e-e945-4932-a19c-dd38b9263801","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:40:01.055121Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin","_id":"6171c53345ceed6e4774ac74","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkrystin-arneson"],"bodyIntro":"A relic of the former East Germany, these \"late shops\" are located on most every street and are as \"Berlin\" as techno.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENew York City has its bodegas, Paris its tabacs, and Berlin its Spätis. Formally known as a \u003Cem\u003ESpätkauf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which translates-ish to \"late shop,\" a späti can be found on most blocks in the city and is open late into the night – if not all night. They supply locals and tourists with cigarettes, snacks and €1 after-work \u003Cem\u003Ewegbiers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"beers you drink on the go\"). But during the pandemic, and particularly during the warmer months, they became essential fuelling stations for outdoor gatherings, as shuttered bars and nightclubs turned social life inside out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like France's boulangeries and wine and cheese shops, which were deemed \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eindispensable for the continuity of the life of the nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", Berlin's spätis were also considered essential and allowed to stay open during the pandemic's hard lockdown. According to the city's official \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berlin.de\u002Fen\u002Fshopping\u002F4971123-2947095-spaeti-meeting-point-and-supermarket.en.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, there are around 1,000 spätis in Berlin's central districts, and like the city's \u003Cem\u003EBäckereien\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bakeries), they seem to be found on almost every street. Their density is so prolific that you wonder how each manages to stay in business selling the same things: colourful bags of Haribo gummies, Ritter Sport's square-shaped chocolate bars, shampoo forgotten during the day's errands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut look a little closer and each späti, often owned by immigrants to Berlin, has its own personality – one that's a reflection of its owner, clientele and location within the city. While the basic selection of goods tends to remain the same, there are those that differentiate themselves based on the preferences of locals in their \u003Cem\u003Ekiez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or the neighbourhood in the immediate blocks around them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zlh8x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It has been a niche for immigrant and ethnic populations to run a business and also to run a business that caters particularly to their own people, their own ethnicities,\" said Dr Paul Nolte, a historian at Freie Universität Berlin. \"So, there will be a Turkish späti that caters to Turkish immigrants in Berlin and so on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENear my home in the heavily Turkish neighbourhood of Neukölln, for example, most spätis stock Uludağ Gazoz, a fizzy Turkish lemonade, and little tubs of Turkish-style \u003Cem\u003Eayran\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a yoghurt-based beverage. If it's in a particularly touristy spot, spätis might also sell \"I <3 Berlin\" T-shirts, postcards and shot glasses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My local, the 'techno-späti' was the only place to grab a beer and feel a bit of normality during lockdown","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn other kiezes, some spätis have disco lights; others, reportedly, have drag queens. One, in the central neighbourhood of Mitte, is only open Thursdays through Sundays and hosts jazz nights, cementing itself as a fixture for locals' social lives. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My local, the 'techno-späti' was the only place to grab a beer and feel a bit of normality during lockdown,\" said Charly Machin, who lives near the airport-turned-public park Tempelhofer Feld. \"The music is often so loud that they have to basically shout the price at you over the music. It has lights and a disco ball over the fridges.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zlh77"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA späti and its kiez work in tandem, each supporting the other – it's no wonder many Berliners have a bit of a soft spot for their local outpost. \"This is important in Berlin: it has this community and neighbourhood component. It's close by and it's in walking distance, and with the supermarkets getting ever larger, it means that there are fewer of them,\" said Nolte. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When everyone streams out of the Templehofer Feld at night, they disperse into all the local spätis,\" said Machin. Her techno outpost is her hands-down favourite: \"They know everyone which is great, but they also remember all the times you were a drunken idiot.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Germans love getting naked in public\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's futuristic city set in a forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unique culture of Japanese convenience stores\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe business' late hours also give spätis a \"particularly German emphasis\", adds Nolte. \"Opening hours of stores have historically been very restricted in Germany, which leads us to the very name of the thing, the späti, that it's late opening hours.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Nolte was growing up in West Germany, \"All grocery stores and shops were mandated to close by 6:30pm and on Saturdays by 1 or 2pm,\" he said. While that's no longer the case – grocery stores are now usually open until at least 21:00, minus the usual Sunday closure – this is \"part of the origins of the späti, and it still plays a role, because the next-door Rewe [supermarket] might be closed when you need something at 10:30 in the night, and the späti next door is still open and will serve you.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zlj0r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpätis' origins date back to 1950 when \"Spätverkaufsstellen\" (literally: \"late outlets\"), opened to start serving late-night workers in the former East German communist state when their shifts ended. According to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bz-berlin.de\u002Fberlin\u002Fder-ur-spaeti-oeffnete-1950-fuer-ddr-schichtarbeiter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerliner Zeitung newspaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, more than 100 such stores dotted Berlin before the fall of the Berlin Wall – but they were only located in the East. In the West, those seeking a late-night beer or cigarettes would need to drive to a gas station, and it was only once the city reunified that modern-day spätis began to appear everywhere. Today, while the concept of a late shop exists in other areas of Germany, it's this history that makes them uniquely Berlin. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut spätis also provide something else for their customers, which is belied by the wobbly (but somehow indestructible) wood-topped tables and benches outside – and sometimes inside – their doors. For Berliners, spätis have a social function as a place to chat with friends over beers, soft drinks or coffees purchased inside. Due in part to the fact they're cheaper than bars, they're also an egalitarian spot: It's possible to find everyone from old East German construction workers, expat American start-up bros and college students to Tinder dates, groups of Turkish girls, and British stag parties on the benches outside of the same one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERight off Mitte's Rosenthaler Platz, Rosenback Kiosk boasts a prime location next to a busy U-Bahn subway line and Volkspark am Weinberg, a park popular for meeting friends and passing an afternoon stretched out on the grass with some cold Berliner Kindl pilsner. Open 24 hours, it serves fresh buns and pastries to morning commuters. At night, though, it transforms. It's what's known as a \"party späti\" and functions almost like a bar: it's a destination for friends to meet and for drinks to be drunk. On weekend nights, tables of Berliners and visitors sitting elbow to elbow spill onto the sidewalk outside its entrance. Inside, there's a constant queue at the register inside for more beers, more Fritz-kolas (Germany's answer to Coca-Cola), more pouches of tobacco. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother well-known club, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fdiskothekmelancholie2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMelancholie 2\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is accessed via a späti's refrigerator door in Mitte, begging the question of whether it's a späti-club or club-späti.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring the pandemic, when it wasn't possible to drink in loitering clusters outside spätis or bars selling takeaway drinks, spätis also became a place that sustained what remained of Berliners' legendary nightlife. With bars and clubs closed, Berliners would stock up on späti drinks and take them to the places they still could congregate to make their own parties – essentially parks, the banks of the Landwehr Canal and roaming strolls around town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09zljq7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike most parks in Berlin, Hasenheide is also bordered with spätis to refresh groups of people picnicking on its grassy fields – an activity that was legal or at least tolerated during most of the warm-weather days throughout the pandemic – or ravers gathering under the cover of night (which was not as legal or tolerated). The park became notorious for illegal techno raves that drew thousands of people during the wee hours, as many as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berliner-zeitung.de\u002Fnews\u002Fhasenheide-rave-polizei-loest-riesige-techno-party-auf-li.95132\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E5,000 in one night\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last summer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his father's store near Hasenheide Park, 17-year-old Ali Jaddouh said that working in a späti is less about the partiers and more about the connection with the bustling kiez around him. \"The whole neighbourhood comes over here and buys stuff. We know the people. They live here in front of us. They know my name,\" he said. \"A neighbourhood isn't a neighbourhood without the späti.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-22T19:52:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spätis: The convenience stores that rule Berlin","headlineShort":"The unique culture of Berlin spätis","image":["p09zlh77"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.5200","longitude":"13.4050","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09zlhfy"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200327-what-coronavirus-reveals-about-the-worlds-culture"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A relic of the former East Germany, these \"late shops\" are located on most every street and are as \"Berlin\" as techno.","summaryShort":"These \"late shops\" are a relic of the former East Germany","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-21T19:53:16.425149Z","entity":"article","guid":"b8dcf573-2878-4298-8229-f02b3f0b7ab9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-22T11:53:48.353332Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fberlin","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgermany","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_germany_berlin_europe_germany_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","_id":"616ff64945ceed2c5f6da18a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rocky, remote outcrop in Scotland inspired the realisation that the Earth was millions of years old – and led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution.","businessUnit":"public service","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Just a bit further, round the next bend,” my guide Jim said, as our fishing boat pitched and rolled in the choppy waters of the North Sea. It was hardly reassuring. But as we lurched from side to side, I reminded myself that the purpose of our trip was worth it. We were re-tracing a 230-year-old voyage that forever changed humanity’s perspective of the history of the Earth – and even of time itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur destination was Siccar Point. I’d visited earlier that day, but on foot. Standing on the cliffs high above the point, about an hour’s drive (and a short coastal walk) east of Edinburgh, I had felt the undeniable sense of being at a boundary. Far below, steep shards of grey rock plunged into the frothing sea. At the clifftops all around, though, the rocks took on a reddish tinge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut to really appreciate the wonder of Siccar Point, probably the most famous geological site in the world, you have to see it by boat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou ay also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161111-paint-from-ochre-rocks-in-staithes-north-yorkshire-england\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThese rocks are art’s greatest treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170721-why-you-ceynhallow-which-you-can-visit-one-day-a-year\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe abandoned island you can visit just one day a year \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20151210-were-these-remote-wild-islands-the-centre-of-everything%20\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWere these remote, wild islands the centre of everything?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuddenly Jim tapped me on the shoulder. “Up ahead,” he pointed. As we drew closer, I began to make out the outcrop’s telltale layers. Up close, the contrast between the vertical sheets of oceanic rock along the bottom of the cliff and the horizontal layers of sandstone high above were clearly visible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack in 1788, few people understood the significance of that contrast. It took an Enlightenment thinker – 62-year-old farmer James Hutton, who made this journey around Siccar Point more than two centuries ago – to realise that it proved the existence of ‘deep time’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELong before Hutton arrived, Siccar Point was a site of historical and geographic importance. More than 1,000 years earlier, the ancient Britons built a small hill fort here to warn off invaders from the north. But no-one had realised how Siccar Point illustrated the story of the Earth itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, almost everyone in 18th-Century society still believed the Earth was somewhere between 4,000 and 10,000 years old, an estimate based on literal Biblical interpretations. Hutton believed that the Earth was in fact far older. It was a realisation that would change the course of science.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many key figures of the 18th-Century Scottish Enlightenment, such as the economist Adam Smith, philosopher David Hume and poet Robert Burns, Hutton was a polymath. Born in 1726, he enrolled as a classics student at the University of Edinburgh at just 14, and by 23 he had both a medical degree from the University of Leiden in Holland and a burgeoning interest in chemistry. A couple of years later, he discovered how to isolate ammonium chloride from soot. He began a business manufacturing it for use in smelling salts, dyeing and metalworks, providing him with wealth for life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"No-one had realised how Siccar Point illustrated the story of the Earth itself","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut amidst this professional success, Hutton’s personal life had taken a turn for the worse. Perceived as a man of ‘loose character’ within upper-class Edinburgh society after fathering an illegitimate son, he retreated to a series of farms near the Scottish-English border that he had inherited from his father. This began a fascination with agriculture that he later described as “the study of my life”. Agriculture turned his ever-questioning mind to the processes that formed the Earth – and to the age of the Earth itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“One of the difficulties he faced was a lot of soil erosion,” said Colin Campbell, chief executive of research centre \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hutton.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe James Hutton Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “He was forever wondering how to keep the soil on the land and stop it disappearing off in rainstorms down the rivers. But he started to realise there was a renewal process, so while the soil would wash away, eventually new soil would form, and this cycle took large amounts of time.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton had begun to understand that the land was sculpted and shaped by gradual processes, all operating over immense timescales far longer than a few thousand years. After spending decades observing and slowly piecing together his thoughts, he presented his findings in 1785 to a small academic group of philosophers at the Royal Society of Edinburgh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was well received. But to convince a wider audience, Hutton knew he needed more evidence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe set off around Scotland seeking landscapes with clear junctions or unconformities, which he believed represented gaps in time between different geological features. The more visually striking the contrast, the easier it was to see that these features had been created separately over enormous time periods, even many millions of years apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs soon as Hutton set eyes upon Siccar Point, he knew he had found what he’d been searching for. As his companion that day, philosopher and mathematician John Playfair, later described the moment: “The mind seemed to grow giddy by looking so far back into the abyss of time.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton’s hunch was correct. Today we know the oceanic greywacke rock was formed some 435 million years ago. Over time, beds of mud on the sea floor were hardened, tilted vertical, lifted above the waves and then slowly eroded to reveal the layers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it was another 65 million years before the sandstone was formed. This happened in a vastly different climatic period, when Scotland was a tropical region lying just south of the equator. The rivers of the rainy season slowly deposited desert sands on top of the greywacke rock, over time consolidating them into stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hutton realised that the formation and movement of these rocks to create the coastline we see at Siccar Point couldn’t happen in sudden cataclysms over years or decades,” said Iain Stewart, geologist at the University of Plymouth. “He understood this concept of deep time: that you need tens of millions of years to effect big changes on the planet. And this is perfectly illustrated by the unconformity between these oceanic and terrestrial rock layers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHutton’s ideas started to become mainstream in the early 19th Century after Playfair published his 1802 book Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the Earth, summarising his friend’s theories. Included was an illustration of Siccar Point.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral decades later, the geologist Sir Charles Lyell wrote the then-groundbreaking three-volume Principles of Geology, bringing Hutton’s revolutionary ideas to the general public and proposing an indefinitely long age for the Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hutton himself, during his lifetime, was famous for giving these impenetrable talks,” Stewart said. “Much of his writing is also quite impenetrable. But to Playfair, and later Lyell, the logic of his thinking was quite compelling, and they played a key role in popularising it and getting people to accept the longevity of the Earth’s history.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you believe the Earth is only 4,000 years old, there’s not much time for natural selection and evolution","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese ideas heavily influenced a young Charles Darwin, providing much of the basis for his thinking that ultimately led to the Theory of Evolution. “If you believe the Earth is only 4,000 years old, there’s not much time for natural selection and evolution,” Campbell explained. “But if you believe the world is millions and millions of years old, it gives you all the time you need for evolution. This is why Hutton really had a massive impact in terms of people’s thinking in the centuries to come.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton himself never witnessed the legacy left by his ideas. He died in 1797 at the age of 70, nine years after his visit to Siccar Point. Mysteriously for one of Scotland’s greatest scientists, his death was barely commemorated and he was buried in an unmarked grave. It took another 100 years before a group of geologists raised the funds to erect a gravestone for him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody knows why this happened,” Campbell said. “There could have been a number of reasons – he wasn’t married, he did have an illegitimate son. Some people claim he drank a lot and womanised, but that may partly be a myth. Away from his scientific genius, there’s a lot of unexplained personal history with Hutton.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, within decades Hutton’s ideas had influenced popular culture and become widely accepted, even by the Church of England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of this is owed not only to Hutton, but to Siccar Point itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s such a massive, obvious contrast in terms of not just the angle but the colour of the rocks, and that leaves absolutely no room for anyone to argue about it,” Campbell said. “It so neatly summarises all of Hutton’s theories in one big way, and I think that’s one of the reasons why it’s so significant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Changed the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series looking into how a destination has made a significant impact on the entire planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis story is a part of BBC Britain – a series focused on exploring this extraordinary island, one story at a time. Readers outside of the UK can see every BBC Britain story by heading to the\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fbritain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBritain homepage\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E; you also can see our latest stories by following us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCBritain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eand\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmobile.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Britain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Travel, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-03-13T19:45:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The cliff that changed our understanding of time","headlineShort":"The cliff that revealed Earth’s history","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rocky, remote outcrop in Scotland inspired the realisation that the Earth was millions of years old – and led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution.","summaryShort":"It changed our understanding of time","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2018-03-12T20:54:01.999722Z","entity":"article","guid":"38d1a71c-0bf6-4fd4-a369-308ce95a9f43","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:57:35.442313Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","_id":"616ff66345ceed394812dcf9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret in its mysterious \"Gate to Hell\". But modern science has finally uncovered the truth behind the Roman myths.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Pamukkale in western Turkey, an enormous white rock formation towers over the surrounding plain. The gleaming mountain of petrified limestone cascades to the valley floor, creased with frozen stalactites and tessellated with hundreds of pools of sparkling turquoise water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese otherworldly formations are travertines, limestone cliffs slowly created over 400,000 years by the bubbling up of mineral springs. As the water flows down the hillside it degasses, leaving behind a vast deposit of bright white calcium carbonate that's almost 3km long and 160m high. This is not the only place where travertines occur – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F638\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHuanglong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in China and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fyell\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Fexplore-mammoth.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMammoth Hot Springs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Yellowstone National Park are other famous examples – but the ones at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190109-did-social-media-save-this-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPamukkale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are the largest and arguably the most magnificent in the world. They're one of the country's most popular visitor attractions, and are so spectacular that the Unesco World Heritage Site's name means \"cotton castle\" in Turkish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the pandemic hit, more than 2.5 million people a year made the journey here from Izmir or Istanbul, spilling out of tour buses at the top of the dazzling plateau and swarming across the landscape like ants on a gigantic mound of sugar before piling back on board and heading on to the beaches of Bodrum or the historic ruins of Ephesus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut visitors who simply dip their toes in the vivid mineral pools and take a selfie in front of the dripping natural columns before moving on are missing a trick. Because perched at the very top of Pamukkale's white crags sits an even more fascinating attraction: the ruins of the beautiful ancient city of Hierapolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHierapolis was founded by the Attalid kings of Pergamon at the end of the 2nd Century BC before being taken over by the Romans in 133 AD. Under Roman rule, it became a thriving spa town; by the 3rd Century, visitors were coming from all over the Empire to admire the landscape and bathe in the supposedly healing waters. The success of the city is still visible in its impressive arched entrance gate, its colonnaded main street and its beautifully restored amphitheatre, all built from the same local travertine that glows golden in the hot Turkish sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cascading blue and white travertine terrace formations in Pamukkale, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The thermal waters are likely one of the primary reasons for the city's foundation,\" said Dr Sarah Yeomans, an archaeologist at the University of Southern California who specialises in the Roman Empire. \"By the mid-2nd Century, Hierapolis would have been a beautiful, bustling spa-town with what I imagine was a more dynamic and diverse population than most, given the popularity of such places with visitors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Hierapolis was also known throughout the Roman world for another, more sinister reason. It was said to be the location of a \"Gate to Hell\", a portal to the underworld where the toxic breath of the three-headed hellhound Cerberus flowed out of the ground, claiming unsuspecting victims on behalf of his master, the god Pluto. A shrine – the Ploutonion – was built on the site, and pilgrims travelled from across the region to pay the priests of the temple to make sacrifices to Pluto on their behalf.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210405-the-enduring-allure-of-lost-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe enduring allure of lost cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180715-the-turkish-city-that-lives-for-breakfast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Turkish city that lives for breakfast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWriters of the time, including Pliny the Elder and the Greek geographer Strabo, described these sacrifices as a chilling spectacle. A priest would lead an animal, perhaps a sheep or a bull, into the shrine. As if by the hand of the god, the animal would instantly drop dead, while the priest would walk out alive. \"I threw in sparrows, and they immediately breathed their last and fell,\" wrote Strabo in Book 13 of his encyclopaedia Geography\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E clearly astonished by what he had just witnessed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen you visit the Ploutonion today it's hard to imagine these dramatic scenes being real. Now excavated and restored, it's a tranquil place: a rectangular enclosure filled with about 25cm of sparkling clear water topped with gently drifting mineral foam, and a small arched entrance on one side. Above it is stepped seating for spectators, and a replica statue of Pluto gazes benignly down into the arena. When I visited, I couldn't understand how this could be a place of death? Surely these are made-up stories, I thought. How could the priests survive while the animals die?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese were questions that also intrigued Hardy Pfanz, a volcano biologist from Germany's University of Duisburg-Essen who studies geogenic gases – gases given off during geological processes. \"When I read the descriptions from the ancient writers, I began wondering if there could be a scientific explanation,\" he said. \"I wondered, could this Gate to Hell be a volcanic vent?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ruins of the Plutonium shrine and Pluto statue at Hierapolis, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKeen to test his theory, Pfanz travelled to Hierapolis in 2013. \"We weren't sure what we would find. It could've been made up, could've been nothing,\" he laughed. \"We certainly weren't expecting to get an answer so quickly.\" But get an answer he did, almost immediately. \"We saw dozens of dead creatures around the entrance: mice, sparrows, blackbirds, many beetles, wasps and other insects. So, we knew right away that the stories were true.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Pfanz tested the air around the vent with a portable gas analyser he discovered the reason: toxic levels of carbon dioxide. Normal air contains just 0.04% CO2 but Pfanz was shocked to discover that the concentration around the shrine reached a staggering 80%. \"Just a few minutes exposure to 10% carbon dioxide can kill you,\" he said, \"so the levels here are really deadly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese ultra-high levels of carbon dioxide are caused by the same geological system that created the area's hot springs and dramatic travertine terraces. Hierapolis is built on the Pamukkale fault, a 35km-long active tectonic fault zone where cracks in the Earth's crust allow mineral-rich water and deadly gases to escape to the surface. One of them runs directly under the city centre and into the Ploutonion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Almost certainly the choice of the Ploutonion's location was directly related to the seismic gas vents that exist here,\" said Yeomans. \"Given that the underworld and the deities and myths associated with it were a significant part of their religious ethos, it makes sense that they would construct temples and shrines in places that most evoked the world that they believed lay beneath their feet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut such proximity to the forces of nature came at a price: an active fault zone also causes earthquakes, which levelled the city in 17 AD, 60 AD, and again in the 17th and 14th Centuries. Eventually, Hierapolis was abandoned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People bathing in the waters of Cleopatra's Pool natural spring pool in Hierapolis","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Pfanz was still mystified by one thing: if this area is so deadly, why did the priests in the Ploutonion not die too? He returned to Hierapolis the following year and this time he studied the concentrations of the gas at different times of the day. \"We noticed that during the day, when it's warm and sunny, the carbon dioxide quickly dissipates,\" he said. \"But because carbon dioxide is heavier than air, at night when it's cooler it pools in the arena, creating a lethal lake of gas at ground level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis conclusion: the animals, with their noses close to the ground, quickly suffocated in this toxic cloud, but the priests, standing taller, were breathing much lower levels of CO2 and were able to survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I realised we had solved this ancient mystery; it was a really fantastic feeling","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas this spectacle a massive money-making confidence trick, or did the priests really believe they were communicating with the gods? \"There's no question that the Ploutonion in Hierapolis was big business,\" said Yeomans, \"but it's hard to be sure if the priests really understood what was going on. Some may well have attributed their survival to the favour of the divine, while others may have regarded it as a natural – if enigmatic – phenomenon that could be observed and, at least to some extent, predicted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday the Ploutonion is bricked up, and a walkway has recently been built around the site to allow visitors a chance to view this legendary arena without getting too close to the source of the deadly gas. But even with these modern trimmings, it's thrilling to be able to walk in the footsteps of the Greek and Roman pilgrims and look down on the place where mythology and reality meet; where the ancient gods reached out and touched the lives of the people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I first recognised that the legendary breath of Cerberus is actually carbon dioxide, I was standing right in front of the archway,\" said Pfanz. \"In that moment, I realised we had solved this ancient mystery; it was a really fantastic feeling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Petrified limestone formations and turquoise water at Pamukkale, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural phenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-29T00:13:23.831Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Turkey's mysterious 'portal to the underworld'","headlineShort":"An ancient Roman mystery solved","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Latrine and Frontinus gate of Hierapolis, Turkey","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.9266","longitude":"29.1274","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Latrine and Frontinus gate of Hierapolis, Turkey","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret in its mysterious \"Gate to Hell\". But modern science has finally uncovered the truth behind the Roman myths.","summaryShort":"The beautiful ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-29T00:19:26.157849Z","entity":"article","guid":"83dff587-9874-4947-b174-2353b226d764","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:59:41.3164Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","_id":"616ff65745ceed36f17024f1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-stafford"],"bodyIntro":"The 18th-Century quest to weigh Earth was crucial to better understanding our Universe – and it took a lonely mountain in Scotland to help achieve the task.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the summer of 1774, the United Kingdom's Astronomer Royal, Nevil Maskelyne, stood on the side of a Scottish mountain contemplating something far more profound than the view. He was trying to work out exactly how much the Earth weighed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchiehallion, in Perthshire, is what's often referred to as a whaleback ridge. The mountain runs from east to west – the north and south slopes are extremely steep – with a tricky, precipitous west slope marking the head, and a much longer, gentler eastern slope marking the tail, up which most hikes are attempted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I got my first glimpse of the head-end of Schiehallion from the northern shores of Loch Rannoch, I realised that it could almost pass for a volcano, with its steep sides tapering upwards to a sharp point. This was exactly the kind of mountain requested by Maskelyne in 1772 when setting fellow astronomer Charles Mason about the task of finding something of suitable bulk to survey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Knowing the Earth's mass would allow scientists to predict the relative masses of every known object in the known Universe, such as the Sun.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMason also needed to measure the mountain's volume and predict its mean density based on the type of rock of which it was composed. From these figures, Maskelyne would then be able to calculate the mountain's mass. In turn, he could scale these finding up to ascertain the Earth's mass to an acceptable degree of accuracy, using the Earth's radius to calculate its volume and making the best educated guess of our planet's density possible at the time. Knowing the Earth's mass would allow scientists to predict the relative masses of every known object in the known Universe, such as the Sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason travelled extensively, eventually finding the 1,083m-high Schiehallion with the expert help of local \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eghillie outdoor guides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Although a distinguished surveyor, who had recently returned to Britain after settling an aristocratic land dispute in the United States by establishing the Mason-Dixon line (later co-opted as a line of division in the Civil War), the idea of spending more months in the Scottish Highlands did not appeal to him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xyk6v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Schiehallion seen across a small lochan at Glengoulandie in Highland Perthshire on a sunny Autumn day","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne thus elected to personally oversee the work that would eventually give Schiehallion something akin to celebrity status in the hiking world, as evidenced by the 20,000 hikers who visit each year. They each pass a commemorative cairn, celebrating the work of Maskelyne and his team, in the Braes of Foss carpark at the start of the hike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot long into my own ascent of Schiehallion, I saw my first fellow hiker trudging down a well-trodden path, looking somewhat dishevelled. Early autumn had rebranded the bracken-laced slopes in a burnt sienna, while above me there was only cloud and, presumably, the rest of the mountain. Already though, with no large mountains nearby, the view from the lower slopes exposed vast tracts of central Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the hiker neared me, I recognised an eager exhaustion in him. \"I did it,\" he said. \"My first Munro,\" referencing the 282 mountains across Scotland whose peaks lie above 3,000ft. With the carpark in sight, he was eager to get off the mountain. \"I'm glad it's over,\" he said. His shellshocked-looking springer spaniel followed after him, barely stopping to sniff my boot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient Roman mystery solved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a cliff changed our understanding of time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's mysterious 'loch dwellers'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGravity never seems quite as strong as when you're hiking uphill. In only a few minutes, I felt that sweet pull of the mountain drawing me in. Before long, the ground in front of me was all I saw; a morass of stone and hardy grasses, leading me on until we fell together like weary heavyweight boxers whenever I stopped for a water break.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESir Isaac Newton was the first to determine that everything has its own gravitational force. He also believed that gravity was too weak to measure at anything lower than a planetary level. But without having a measurement of Earth's gravity, it would be impossible to calculate its weight, because gravity is variable. For example, if I stood on a bathroom scale on Earth, I'd weigh more than on the same set of scales on Mercury, a smaller planet than Earth with a lower gravitational force, even though my mass would remain the same.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat Maskelyne and other scientists of his time had realised was that if you could get close enough to its centre of mass, a mountain's gravity might be actually strong enough to measure. That meant finding a mountain with steep slopes. But if one mountain has a gravitational pull, so do all the others, potentially distorting the measurements. For this reason, Schiehallion, which was located far from other similarly sized mountains, was the perfect fit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xyk6s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cairn at Schiehallion commemorating the Reverend Nevil Maskelyne's gravitational force experiment in 1774","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne requested that observation stations be built on Schiehallion's steep north and south slopes, at points closest to the mountain's centre of mass. From here, a pendulum was hung, pulled towards the centre of the Earth by our planet's own, superior gravitational force. Crucially, Maskelyne needed to prove that Schiehallion's gravity was drawing the bob of the pendulum away from its vertical position.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne did this by tracking the transit of 43 different stars from each observation station to triangulate what is known as \"true vertical\", ie, the angle of the pendulum, had it been suspended on a flat plain, affected only by the Earth's gravitational pull and nothing else. He discovered that from each observation station on either side of the mountain, there was a clear deviation of the pendulum away from true vertical, towards the mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchiehallion's gravitational pull was thus proven, but the work was just getting started. Next, the whole mountain was to be surveyed in order to calculate its volume, a task that fell to the team of mathematician Charles Hutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInclement weather is certainly no stranger to Schiehallion; it took Hutton's team almost two years to fully map the mountain because of it. As I reached the ridgetop, the clouds descended further, blotting everything out. Soon, the well-marked path disappeared into a challenging boulder field. Only the odd mist-obscured cairn indicated the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA spectral couple appeared through the gloom and told me that the peak was not too far off. Ten minutes later, the route I was on seemed to be heading downhill. But worse, the cairns had disappeared and the path was angling round towards the sheer north face. I found it difficult to tell whether the boulder I stood on was overhanging the abyss or just more stone, so I stopped to pull out my map and compass. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Hutton finished surveying the mountain, he had a map covered in thousands of precise longitudinal and elevation readings. In school we learn to compute a cube's volume by multiplying its length, width and height. But real life doesn't give us straight lines; it gives us curves, aberrations, knolls and fissures. These were exactly what Hutton's measurements showed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xyk6r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty hiking path leading up Schiehallion, Perthshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey were proving a little tricker to compute, and calculating the volume of the whole mountain seemed virtually impossible. Then Hutton had the ingenious idea of dividing the mountain up by bunching values at similar altitudes together. Taking a pencil, he connected those altitude points together, forming a series of imperfect rings. Inadvertently, he had just invented contour lines, which, to this day, remain one of the most valuable pieces of information on a map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I suspected, I was lost. After the correct path descended slightly from one of Schiehallion's many false peaks, I'd taken a wrong turn. My map showed densely packed contour lines right about where I judged myself to be standing, which meant it was about to get very steep, very soon. I abruptly retraced my steps, thanking Hutton and his contour lines for quite possibly saving me from falling over a cliff edge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1775, Maskelyne presented the final results to the Royal Society. We now know that the estimations of Maskelyne and his team were within 20% of what the Earth is now thought to have a mass of (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fspaceplace.nasa.gov\u002Fplanets-weight\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E5.97 x 10^24kg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in case you were wondering), a significant improvement on previous estimates at the time. Maskelyne and Hutton's measurements were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmedium.com\u002Froaming-physicist\u002Fusing-a-mountain-to-weigh-the-world-59eb2cfb3d2c\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eused as recently as 2007\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to obtain a closer estimate of the Earth's mass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientific discovery is not unlike hiking up a cold, damp, cloudy mountainside. But this 18th-Century feat cleared a great deal of mist for future astronomers and physicists, not to mention the many hikers who attempt to reach the peak of Schiehallion every day in homage to this geological marvel's contribution to our understanding of the cosmos. And thanks to those experiments, those ingenious contour lines will always give us a sense of a mountain's shape, even when our eyes cannot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-08T01:36:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How a Scottish mountain weighed the planet","headlineShort":"How much does the Earth weigh?","image":["p09xyk6y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The cone shaped summit of Schiehallion, Perthshire above the east end of Loch Rannoch","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.6668","longitude":"4.1001","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The cone shaped summit of Schiehallion, Perthshire above the east end of Loch Rannoch","promoImage":["p09xyk6y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The 18th-Century quest to weigh Earth was crucial to better understanding our Universe – and it took a lonely mountain in Scotland to help achieve the task.","summaryShort":"A Scottish mountain helped scientists find the answer","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-07T20:19:24.204202Z","entity":"article","guid":"2c17e167-ffa1-4e9f-8d68-d44bd201aeb8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-19T04:00:31.17951Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fscotland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_scotland_europe_great-britain_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know","_id":"6170929945ceed6e011498ce","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmisbaah-mansuri"],"bodyIntro":"With ochre-stained streams, crimson-hued beaches and enchanting salt caves, Iran's Hormuz Island is a geologist's Disneyland.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You should get a taste of this soil,\" said Farzad Kay, my tour guide on southern Iran's Hormuz Island, as we stood at the foot of a ruby-red mountain that loomed majestically over the shoreline, engulfing the beach and waves in a crimson shadow. I approached his suggestion with some trepidation, as I was yet to understand this mysterious, mineral-laden landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESet 8km off Iran's coast amid the murky blue waters of the Persian Gulf, Hormuz is a teardrop-shaped shimmering \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fimages\u002F147428\u002Firans-rainbow-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esalt dome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E embedded with layers of shale, clay and iron-rich volcanic rocks that glow in dazzling shades of red, yellow and orange due to the more than 70 minerals found here. Nearly every inch of Hormuz Island's 42 awe-invoking sq km imparts a story of its formation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Kathryn Goodenough, principal geologist at the British Geological Survey who has previously worked in Iran, hundreds of millions of years ago, shallow seas formed thick layers of salt around the margins of the Persian Gulf. These layers gradually collided and interlayered with mineral-rich volcanic sediment in the area, causing the formation of the colourful landmass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Over the last 500 million years, the salt layers were buried deeply by younger layers of volcanic sediment. Since the salt is buoyant, over time, it has risen through cracks in the overlying rocks to reach the surface and form salt domes,\" said Dr Goodenough. She added that these thick layers of salt, many kilometres below the land, are actually present across much of the Persian Gulf area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis geological makeup has resulted in ochre-stained streams, crimson-hued beaches and enchanting salt caves. In fact, Hormuz is often called the \"rainbow island\" because of the spectrum of chromatic hues that it exudes. It's also home to what's thought to be the only edible mountain in the world, which Kay was encouraging me to try.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09z1y8x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Salt dome (salt goddess) in hormuz island.southern iran.","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe red soil on the mountain I was standing near, called gelack, is caused by haematite, an iron oxide thought to be derived from the island's volcanic rocks. Not only is it a valuable mineral for industrial purposes, it also plays an important role in local cuisine. Used as a spice, it lends an earthy flavour to curries and goes perfectly with the local bread called \u003Cem\u003Etomshi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"a handful of something\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The red soil is used as a sauce,\" explained Maryam Peykani, Farzad's wife. \"This sauce is called \u003Cem\u003Esoorakh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and is spread on flatbread as it is almost cooked. Apart from its culinary usages, the red soil is also used [in paintings by] local artists, dyeing, creation of ceramics and cosmetics.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the ruby-red mountain, there's plenty else to explore on Hormuz. In the island's west there's a spectacular salt mountain known as the Goddess of Salt. Extending more than a kilometre, its pale caves and sharp-edged walls are covered by shimmering salt crystals that look like the giant columns of a marble palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a Scottish mountain weighed the planet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient Roman mystery solved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cliff that changed our understanding of time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals believe that the salt possesses the healing power to soak up and release any negative energy, and Kay advised me to take my shoes off so my feet touched the salt dome. \"The rock salt is known to release immense positive energy,\" he told me. \"After having spent [time] in this valley, you are bound to feel much more invigorated, which is why the valley is also called the Energy Valley.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilarly, in the island’s south-west is Rainbow Valley, a stunning display of multi-hued soil and vividly coloured mountains in shades of red, purple, yellow, ochre and blue. As I walked, I noticed patches of bright colours forming geometric patterns that glittered and gleamed as the sun's rays hit them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the nearby Valley of the Statues, rocks were weathered into fantastical shapes by thousands of years of wind erosion; with a bit of imagination, I could see birds, dragons and other mythical creatures. It was like admiring Earth's very own art gallery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09z1y8c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Coastline and orange beach at Hormuz Island, south Iran","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the island’s surreal, kaleidoscopic natural colours, most travellers don't know about it. According to the Ports and Maritime Organization of Iran, just 18,000 visitors came here in 2019.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This natural phenomenon is not fully discovered by world travellers despite its significant tourist attractions, historically and naturally,\" said Ershad Shan, another local, as I sank my teeth into a spicy, fragrant curry of sardines, red onion, lemon and orange, prepared using soorakh. \"If more attention is paid to the infrastructural development of Hormuz, this island can be changed to be an important attraction for tourists.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals have started to offer home-cooked meals for tourists and driving rickshaws and motorcycles to transport people around the island. \"We feel responsible for doing our bit for Hormuz. It's so rare and is a part of our identity,\" Shan said. \"We feel an urgent need to contribute towards getting the world to take notice of this eco-heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I devoured my curry, it struck me that while Hormuz is without doubt a geologist's Disneyland, it is the edible soil, which is literally runs through the veins of its inhabitants, that make it truly special.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know-4"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-21T22:04:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 'rainbow island' most travellers don't know","headlineShort":"The island made of edible soil","image":["p09z1y91"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Multi-coloured soil on Hormuz Island, south Iran","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"27.0593","longitude":"56.4608","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Multi-coloured soil on Hormuz Island, south Iran","promoImage":["p09z1y91"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With ochre-stained streams, crimson-hued beaches and enchanting salt caves, Iran's Hormuz Island is a geologist's Disneyland.","summaryShort":"Used as a spice, it lends an earthy flavour to curries","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-20T22:05:06.798148Z","entity":"article","guid":"51182bba-f588-4190-970f-97ba3b9b70e1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-20T23:49:16.522214Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Firan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_iran_middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660794},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","_id":"616ff6ca45ceed6821286789","name":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zIcZMd","summaryLong":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.","summaryShort":"50 Reasons to Love the World","tag":null,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-26T11:01:53.442245Z","entity":"external","guid":"1ab2b740-5be2-4174-a268-6069d6ef193a","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","modifiedDateTime":"2021-07-28T15:18:23.030725Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","image":["p09lrtz6"],"promoImage":["p09lrtz6"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"50 Reasons to Love the World","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zIcZMd","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","_id":"616ff71545ceed5cc35d3faa","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. China\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. India\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. Indonesia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Brazil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Russia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Mexico\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Japan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. Germany\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. UK\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESee the full list here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 economies in 2050, according to PwC’s The World in 2050 report","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrexit, coronavirus, and trade tiffs may be making economic headwinds, but despite immediate challenges, the world economy is projected to keep growing at a rapid pace over the next few decades. In fact, by 2050, the global market is projected to double its current size, even as the UN forecasts the world’s population will only grow by a modest 26%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis growth will bring with it plenty of changes. Though it can be challenging to predict exactly how the future will unfold, most economists agree on one thing: today’s developing markets will be tomorrow’s economic superpowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World in 2050\u003C\u002Fa\u003E report by international professional services firm PwC, in 30 years, six of the seven of the world’s largest economies will be today’s emerging economies, surpassing the US (dropping from 2nd to 3rd), Japan (dropping from 4th to 8th) and Germany (dropping from 5th to 9th). Even relativelysmaller economies like Vietnam, the Philippines and Nigeria will see huge leaps in their respective rankings over the next three decades, according to the report.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190818-whats-it-like-to-live-in-an-over-touristed-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat's it like to live in an overtouristed city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190630-five-countries-on-the-frontline-of-tech\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries on the frontline of tech\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving in a country that thinks green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe spoke to residents living in five countries with hyper-growth potential to find out how they’re navigating the rapid changes already occurring, what benefits come with living in these places and the challenges they face as their countries climb the rankings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChina\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs measured by GDP by purchasing power parity (PPP), which adjusts for price level differences across countries, China already has the largest economy in the world. The Asian behemoth has seen massive economic gains over the past decade, but economists promise that it is just the tip of the iceberg for what the future holds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe big economic changes are happening right in front of residents’ eyes. “My home for the last few years, the Industrial Park of Suzhou, is a glittering urban paradise of shopping malls, parks, restaurants and traffic. But when I first came to China [15 years ago], the whole area was swamp and farmland,” said Rowan Kohll, author of the \u003Cspan\u003E1-Minute Chinese\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E books.“This is a very common story in China. The whole country is changing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe changes are attracting a brand-new set of entrepreneurs and others looking for financial opportunity amid the seemingly unstoppable growth. China’s largest city, Shanghai, is where many newcomers make their start.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EShanghai is an entrepreneurial and very commercially minded city,” said American John Pabon, founder of Shanghai-based \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fulcrum22.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFulcrum Strategic Advisors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “From the early-morning traders at the wet markets to honking motorbikes at traffic lights to late nights in the office, everyone is here to get ahead.” But unlike New York City, where Pabon lived previously and found people usually held their cards close to their chest, residents here are “always willing to listen and provide sound advice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn order to work and live here, however, expats must learn Mandarin. “It’s no longer a nice-to-have in China,” Pabon said. “Without Mandarin, you’re going to find your options pretty limited for work and in social and cultural circles, and you may not even be allowed in at all.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIndia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe world’s second-most-populous country is expected to see massive growth over the next three decades, averaging 5% growth in GDP per year, according to the report – making it one of the fastest-growing economies in the world. By 2050, India is projected to be the world’s second-largest economy (overtaking the United States) and will account for 15% of the world’s total GDP. The positive outcomes of that growth have already started to make an impact for residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“From the end of 20th Century and start of 21st, I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes,” said native Saurabh Jindal, who runs the app \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftalktravelapp.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETalk Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The economy growing has led to manifold changes in people’s lifestyles, from the vibes in the city to the attitudes in society and eventually the overall walk and talk of the country and its inhabitants.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, there has been a “major upgrade” in the quality of televisions, mobile phones and car brands over the past 15 years, he said, while air travel has become increasingly accessible, and houses have become “more posh and rich”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe improvements haven’t come without challenges, though. Infrastructure spending has lagged, even as more cars take to the streets; and a lack of regulation enforcement has led to increased pollution levels, especially in urban centres like New Delhi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe growth also hasn’t always reached every citizen equality. “There are some sections of the society [that] are still living a very low quality of life,” said Jindal. “You can see slums next to high-rise buildings.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe attitudes toward women here also frustrate residents, as the country continues to grapple with an ongoing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-43782471\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erape and sexual harassment crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “A country’s growth is measured by how much it respects the rights of its citizens, so we still have a long way to go,” said Namita Kulkarni, who lives in Mysore and blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fradicallyeverafter.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadically Ever After\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Until women are safe in public spaces, no amount of ‘economic growth’ means a whit.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKulkarni recommends expats do their research before moving here, especially because the various parts of the county can be so different from each other. “Each state has its own unique languages, culture, cuisine and traditions,” she said. “The north-eastern states are my personal favourite.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents also advise not trying to replicate the creature comforts of home, but rather tune into how the country works. “Adapt to India,” said Jindal. “India will not adapt to you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBrazil\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis South American powerhouse is set to be the world’s fifth-largest economy by 2050, overtaking Japan, Germany and Russia in the process. With an abundance of natural resources, Brazil has grown its economy rapidly in the past few decades, but faces challenges as it struggles to control government corruption and inflation that has plagued the country in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I witnessed all the euphoria regarding the economy in the late 2000s and early 2010s. A new middle class emerged in Brazil, and the country as a whole was feeling proud of this new, hard-earned reputation,” said Caio Bersot, who was born in Brazil. “But at the same time, large cities like Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo grew more unaffordable. It got to a point that it felt like Brazil was growing faster than it should. There weren’t enough trade corridors, rail lines, roads and ports to keep up with all that growth.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of the challenges have enabled Brazil to be an early adopter of technology. “In many developing countries, high growth translates to high inflation. As a result of the high cost of protecting cash against inflation, Brazil became a fintech pioneer,” said intercultural strategist Annalisa Nash Fernandez, who previously lived in Sao Paulo. “Paypal and Venmo equivalents have been the daily routine in Brazil for 20-plus years, even before smartphones, via an ATM.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA 2016 recession hit the country hard, but the economy is showing some signs of re-growth, and with a new presidential administration inaugurated last year, 2020 is posed to be a “make-or-break” year for Brazil, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-brazil-economy-2020-analysis\u002Fbrazil-economic-stars-align-turning-2020-into-make-or-break-year-idUSKBN1YG1T7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to Reuters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The country still faces economic challenges but is definitely working towards a bright future,” said native Silvana Frappier. “Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing, and it has a strong and rapidly growing service sector. I’m also seeing an increase in tourism investment.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of the state of the economy, newcomers are typically welcomed here, especially if they learn the language. “Brazil is a very friendly country that loves to welcome foreigners. Brazilians are less individualists and more social people. They love when a foreigner shows interest in their culture and language,” said Frappier. “Learning Portuguese will make you feel right at home.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMexico\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy 2050, Mexico is poised to become the world’s seventh-largest economy, jumping up four spots from its current 11th place in the rankings. A focus on manufacturing and exports have driven much of its growth in recent years, though current economic conditions have hampered potential gains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“For the past 10 years, Mexico’s economy has grown, but not as much as I thought it would and definitely not as much as it could,” said travel blogger Federico Arrizabalaga, who lives in Puerto Vallarta. “The price of gasoline has doubled in the last eight years [and] the Mexican peso’s value has dropped around 50% versus the US dollar in the past 10 years. But if you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well, and your money still goes a long way compared to more expensive countries.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHealthcare and transportation are notably more affordable here than they are in the US, Canada and Europe. “I was just in Mexico City and the cost of an Uber to go anywhere in the city was about US$4 to $10 [approx. £3 to £8],” said American Suzan Haskins, senior editor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finternationalliving.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who currently lives in Merida, Yucatan. As with many developing economies, infrastructure and road conditions can be challenging, but the government just unveiled a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-mexico-infrastructure\u002Fmexico-to-spend-44-billion-on-infrastructure-in-first-phase-of-plan-idUSKBN1Y01UQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$44bn infrastructure investment\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to Reuters, to be spent over the next four years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach region of Mexico is very distinct in terms of climate and culture, so residents advise new expats to do their research and visit different cities before relocating. That said, the local hospitality makes fitting in a lot easier, especially when it comes to learning Spanish, a definite must.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People here will go out of their way to help you over communication hurdles,” said Haskins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENigeria\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Africa’s largest economies, Nigeria is poised to grow by leaps and bounds by 2050, at an average of 4.2% year-on-year, rising eight places from 22nd to 14thin the rankings. While the government has struggled with corruption, residents have an entrepreneurial attitude that keeps pushing the country forward. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fprofile\u002FOndrej_Dvoulety\u002Fpublication\u002F329512319_Entrepreneurial_Activity_and_Its_Determinants_Findings_from_African_Developing_Countries\u002Flinks\u002F5c0bcbc4299bf139c74826f2\u002FEntrepreneurial-Activity-and-Its-Determinants-Findings-from-African-Developing-Countries.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Entrepreneurship Monitor data\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, more than 30% of Nigerian residents are new entrepreneurs or the owner-manager of a new business, among the highest rate in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air,” said Nigerian native Colette Otusheso, CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facceleratetv.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAccelerate TV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who lives in Lagos. “Nigerians are hard workers and it almost comes naturally for us to be working on several things at once, which means there is always something going on.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven the country’s challenges, like minimal public transportation, have segued into business opportunities. “We now have an app very similar to Uber for \u003Cem\u003Eokadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (motorbike transport), which is the most used form of transport in Nigeria but in the past has not been very reliable,” said Otusheso. “Now we can track okada drivers and locations just as you do for transport and deliveries with Uber.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResidents mostly feel positive about the county’s future but are wary of government corruption and foreign investment. “We need to be careful what country we take money from, who we allow to help us improve our infrastructure and what strings are attached to it,” said Nigerian native Chizoba Anyaoha, Founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travsolo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravSolo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noting their history of other nations taking advantage of their natural resources and raw materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENewcomers should settle in Lagos or Abuja, both big cities with good schools and great nightlife and food. Just like any big city, street smarts are key. “The best way to acclimate here is to know someone currently living here you trust,” said Anyaoha. “It is quite easy to identify expats, making them easy targets. Keep a low profile, take precautions, always be aware of your surroundings and the people in it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it’s like to reside in some of the world’s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-23T20:27:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Five superpowers ruling the world in 2050","headlineShort":"The world’s next superpowers","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","summaryShort":"These five countries will shape the future of the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-03-22T20:30:50.104722Z","entity":"article","guid":"95b2ff41-6901-484d-b216-b9a83a74444e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:39:14.807698Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","_id":"616ff65445ceed1f61758b88","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the Covid-19 virus is contained, and which countries stand to bounce back best.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. Norway\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. Denmark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. Switzerland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. Germany\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Finland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Sweden\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Luxembourg\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Austria\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. US Central\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. United Kingdom\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fmglobal.com\u002Fresearch-and-resources\u002Ftools-and-resources\u002Fresilienceindex\u002Fexplore-the-data\u002F?&vd=1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESee the full list here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 most resilient countries, according to the 2019 Global Resilience Index","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Covid-19 pandemic has injected an unprecedented amount of uncertainty into the global economy, as countries across the world battle growing infections, implement wide-ranging social-distancing strategies and attempt early fiscal interventions to stabilise markets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile managing the immediate health crisis is vital and necessary for economic stability, experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the virus is contained and which countries stand to bounce back best.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo better understand this, we turned to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fmglobal.com\u002Fresearch-and-resources\u002Ftools-and-resources\u002Fresilienceindex\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 Global Resilience Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by insurance company FM Global, which ranks the resiliency of the business environment across 130 countries, based on factors like political stability, corporate governance, risk environment and supply chain logistics and transparency. Pairing these rankings with their country’s initial response to the virus, we identified the nations across the globe that have a high likelihood of maintaining stability and resilience through the crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe talked to residents and experts in these places to understand how they’re coping now and what they might look forward to in the hopefully near-term future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDenmark \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERanked second in the index, Denmark scores high marks for its supply chain tracking and low governmental corruption. The country also moved quickly when it came to enacting social-distancing measures in light of the spread of the virus. It announced a shutdown of schools and non-essential private businesses on 11 March and closed its borders to foreigners on 14 March, when the country only had a handful of positive cases. But the moves have already proven effective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Regular flu has dropped by 70% versus last year, which must be a good indicator of the effectiveness of the steps taken by the government,” said Rasmus Aarup Christiansen, managing partner of Pissup Tours, based in Copenhagen. “I was sceptical at first but seeing how almost all other countries have taken similar steps [like lockdowns and border closings] soon after Denmark, it seems the government was doing the right thing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Most people feel a moral duty to make sacrifices for the sake of public health","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDanish culture, which tends to be trusting of authority and willing to stand together for a common cause, has also had an impact on the effectiveness of the measures. “The word ‘\u003Cem\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’ (which roughly translates to “civic sense” or “civic duty”) is the new buzzword in Denmark on both social and traditional media, and most people feel a moral duty to make sacrifices for the sake of public health,” said Aarup Christiansen. “No-one wants to be called out for being responsible for endangering the lives of senior citizens just because they won’t give up their usual luxuries.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat doesn’t mean there haven’t been challenges, however. Aarup Christiansen has personally seen his travel business revenues plummet. While he appreciates the governmental financial aid packages, announced on 14 March (which include covering some of the costs of worker salaries), the rules and outputs have yet to be fully defined and put in place, leading to more uncertainty and layoffs. Still, the measures, like paying 90% of wages of hourly workers and 75% of those of salaried workers affected by the crisis, are being hailed as a model for the rest of the world, by essentially “freezing” the economy until the storm subsides. The model won’t come cheap however; the measures are expected to cost 13% of total GDP.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most inviting city in Africa?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries saving the planet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's next superpowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere’s also the sense here that this is a global crisis, and Denmark’s resilience will no doubt rely on how the rest of the world adapts and maintains open trade. “Denmark may be able to gain a relative advantage by having dodged some of the more serious consequences,” said Aarup Christiansen. In fact, the country is already talking about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002F2020-03-30\u002Fdenmark-raises-wage-compensation-scheme-ceiling-amid-high-demand\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eloosening some of the restrictions by Easter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E based on the containment so far, according to a Bloomberg report. “Denmark’s well-developed pharmaceutical sector may prove an advantage,” said Aarup Christiansen. “I would, however, find no pride in Denmark being better off if it comes from other countries having to suffer.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESingapore scores high in the index for its strong economy, low political risk, strong infrastructure and low corruption in the survey, pushing it to number 21 in the overall resilience ranking. The country also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-51866102\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoved fast to contain the virus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and has had one of the flattest curves in the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Surviving this will make everyone more resilient","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We have tremendous trust in our government, who are relatively transparent about every step they are taking to fight this crisis,” said resident Constance Tan, who works for data analysis platform Konigle. “As a general rule, if the government enforces something, we comply.” That said, there are still rule-flouters, and the country has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.channelnewsasia.com\u002Fnews\u002Fsingapore\u002Fcovid19-coronavirus-89-work-passes-revoked-mom-12563632\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etaken away passports and work passes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for those in violation, according to a 21 March report by Channel News Asia. “But as a whole, we work together, and we do not need to worry about social unrest, people dying on the streets or economic destabilisation,” said Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a small country, Singapore depends on the recovery of the rest of the world to have the most successful rebound, but residents generally believe in the strength of the future here. “As a people, like everywhere else, I think surviving this will make everyone more resilient,” said native Justin Fong. “One thing for sure, this has forced the adoption of technology which will bode well for Singaporeans.” Many businesses like Konigle implemented work-from-home policies quickly, and the government released the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrace Together app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help track the virus, which many residents have downloaded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUnited States \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo capture the United States’ broad geographic footprint, the index splits up the country into West, Central and East regions, but as a whole, the US ranks well (9th, 11th and 22nd, respectively) for its low-risk business environment and strong supply chain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EContaining the virus has proven challenging in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-52094331\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emajor metropolitan areas like New York\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and unemployment has already \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-52137727\"\u003Ejumped to historic levels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in large part due to the mandatory shutdowns of more than half of US states, which has particularly hit restaurant and retail workers and other businesses that rely on foot traffic. But the US government has moved quickly to pass \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-52070718\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estimulus measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to stabilise the economy, and social distancing strategies enacted elsewhere in the country, which seem to be having an effect, should lessen the overall impact of the virus, allowing for a quicker economic recovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinancial institutions like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cnbc.com\u002F2020\u002F03\u002F31\u002Fcoronavirus-update-goldman-sees-15percent-jobless-rate-followed-by-record-rebound.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoldman Sachs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.morganstanley.com\u002Fideas\u002Fcoronavirus-impact-on-global-growth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMorgan Stanley are predicting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a “V-shaped” recession and recovery, with an unprecedented negative immediate impacts (as is already being seen) but a relatively quick recovery in the later quarters of the year; while consultants like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mckinsey.com\u002Fbusiness-functions\u002Fstrategy-and-corporate-finance\u002Four-insights\u002Fsafeguarding-our-lives-and-our-livelihoods-the-imperative-of-our-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMcKinsey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are taking a more measured, but still optimistic view, on recovery based on the successful implementation of public health measures – like the lockdowns in place – and policy interventions like the already-announced $2t stimulus package, likely the first of many. The US is also critical to the world economy, representing a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.investopedia.com\u002Finsights\u002Fworlds-top-economies\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enearly a quarter of global GDP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the recovery of the global economy is highly dependent on how the US fares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We want money, goods, services, labour and ideas to flow as freely as possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Generally speaking, the US economy is better-positioned to recover from large shocks and potential longer-run shifts than much of the rest of the world. The population is on average younger than much of the rest of the world with more mobility, and labour market restrictions are generally lighter, thereby facilitating greater labour reallocation” said Eric Sims, professor of economics at the University of Notre Dame. “More immediately, the Federal Reserve in the US and the Bank of England in the UK (neither of which have yet gone to negative policy rates) have a bit more space to provide monetary accommodation than other central banks around the world, such as the ECB or the Bank of Japan.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo further enhance the US’ recovery, the presidential administration \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002F52053676\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehas proposed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dividing the nation into areas that are less hard hit and allowing normal economic activity to recur. “I think those measures would go long way towards ultimately setting up the conditions for strong recovery,” said Peter C Earle, research fellow at the American Institute for Economic Research, a not-for-profit academic think tank. “We want money, goods, services, labour and ideas to flow as freely as possible, not just domestically but internationally as well.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe US’ lack of universal healthcare has been one criticism of the county’s ability to handle the crisis, and one that needs to be addressed for future resiliency. “I think eventually the world can emerge stronger after the virus is contained and I believe the US can, too. But it all depends on the lessons we learn,” said Michael Merrill, an economist and labour historian in the Rutgers School of Management and Labor Relations. “We are going to have to invest in new forms of public health and create sustainable forms of social protection and institutional resiliency if we are to return to the commercially dense, interconnected, highly networked societies that were the norm only one month ago.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERwanda\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe felt confident that the Rwandan government would handle the situation way better than in our home countries\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDue to recent improvements in corporate governance, Rwanda has made some of the largest leaps in the index in recent years, jumping 35 spots to its current rank of 77th most resilient in the world (and fourth highest in Africa). Most importantly, it looks particularly well positioned to bounce back from this type of crisis as the country successfully contained Ebola from its borders after an outbreak from neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo in 2019. With its mix of universal health care, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Ftechnology-43886039\u002Fdrones-deliver-blood-and-medical-supplies-in-rwanda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedical supply-delivering drones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and thermometer checks at its borders, Rwanda stands to be well-equipped to maintain stability throughout the crisis, especially when compared to other countries in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A lot of foreign students like me stayed behind because we felt confident that the Rwandan government would handle the situation way better than in our home countries,” said Garnett Achieng, digital content curator for Baobab Consulting and student at the African Leadership University, who lives in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKigali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and is originally from Kenya. “Amongst foreign African students, the only anxiety comes with knowing that our families back home are not in the same situation we are in.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERwanda was the first country in sub-Saharan Africa to impose a total lockdown, and is already \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.africanexponent.com\u002Fpost\u002F7335-rwanda-distributes-free-food-social-services-in-response-to-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edistributing free food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E door-to-door to the country’s most vulnerable. While tourism is expected to be hit hard, as Rwanda is a popular destination for many international conferences and exhibitions, Achieng is hopeful that the country will have relatively few casualties to the virus, making it well-positioned to recover quickly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENew Zealand\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERanked 12th-most resilient in the index, New Zealand scores especially high in corporate governance and its supply chain. The country has also been able to move quickly to contain the spread of the virus by shutting borders to international travellers on 19 March and enacting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-52001578\u002Fcoronavirus-new-zealand-announces-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enon-essential-business lockdown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on 25 March.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s our time to sit down as a New Zealand family and decide who we want to be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAs an island nation, it is easier to control our borders, the main source of infections. So the effective border closure makes sense,” said Auckland resident Shamubeel Eaqub, economist at consultancy Sense Partners. “Compared to other countries, the response in New Zealand has been bold and decisive.” The measures are paying off, as some epidemiologists see it as having potential to be one of few \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002F2020\u002Fmar\u002F31\u002Ftougher-new-zealand-rules-on-covid-19-could-set-it-apart-as-normal-nation-after-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“normal” nations left\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to a Guardian report, eliminating all cases if measures remain strong for the coming weeks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith tourism and exports a major part of the economy, New Zealand will face some struggles to its economy in the near term, but this doesn’t necessarily have to be a bad thing. “By being insulated, we will have time to recalibrate,” said Dunedin resident Ron Bull, director of curriculum development at Otago Polytechnic. “We had already started talking about the impact of campers and backpackers on the environment, and this gives us time to weigh up what’s important against the waves of tourist dollars coming in.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOverall, the country is well-placed for a stable recovery, with low levels of government debt and the ability to enact quantitative easing to keep interest rates low. “We have fewer constraints to both blunt the impact of dealing with [the] pandemic and supercharge the recovery,” said Eaqub. “Most importantly, New Zealand remains a relatively high-trust country. This will be a strong foundation for recovery from the biggest health and economic shock in generations.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBull agrees the country has a likelihood to come out stronger. “Just like a family living in the same house, you have to get to know each other,” he said. “It’s our time to sit down as a New Zealand family and decide who we want to be and make some decisions to make us stronger and better.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it’s like to reside in some of the world’s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-06T22:43:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Five countries with the most resilient economies","headlineShort":"Which countries will recover first?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the Covid-19 virus is contained, and which countries stand to bounce back best.","summaryShort":"Five nations likely to maintain stability through the Covid-19 crisis","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-04-05T21:48:28.048536Z","entity":"article","guid":"3ceea73d-da22-4434-b0c3-f380b811c1cf","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:40:57.211081Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","_id":"616ff72645ceed6c8e772151","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Samfundssind – which is loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness” – has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETowards the end of each year, Dansk Sprognævn (the Danish Language Council) and P1 radio station select Denmark’s word of the year. Inevitably capturing the (sometimes unflattering) mood of the times, previous winners have included \u003Cem\u003Eklimatosse\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“climate idiot”) in 2019 and \u003Cem\u003Ehvidvask\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“money laundering”) in 2018.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn early contender for 2020’s title is surely \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdsn.dk\u002F?retskriv=samfundssind&ae=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which the Danish Language Council defines as “putting the concern of society higher than one’s own interests”. More loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness”, samfundssind has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis: by searching a database of Danish news, the language council found that usage of “samfundssind” increased from just 23 times in February to 2,855 in March.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“There is a strong tradition of community spirit in Denmark,” said Eva Skafte Jensen, senior researcher at the Danish Language Council. “In the 19th Century, this was seen in the way people in the countryside established \u003Cem\u003Eandelsbevægelsen\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (co-operatives) focused on common goals. Dairy farmers would team up to finance jointly owned dairies [and] farmers and other country people would form consumer co-ops, thus circumventing the monopoly of private merchants of groceries… This idea was also brought into the workers’ movements where it helped to build strong unions.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Samfundssind has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlso associated is the 19th-Century establishment of \u003Cem\u003Ehøjskole\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (folk schools), which aimed to give rural people a non-formal education in good citizenship – and still exist today. It was this association with folk schools, co-operatives and the worker’s movement, “when people pulling together achieved more than the individual,” Jensen believes, that helped samfundssind become a 2020 buzzword – as did its pointed use by the current prime minister.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEarly in the crisis, Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen appealed directly to Danes’ samfundssind. “We have to stand together by keeping our distance,” she said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.regeringen.dk\u002Fnyheder\u002F2020\u002Fstatsminister-mette-frederiksens-indledning-paa-pressemoede-i-statsministeriet-om-corona-virus-den-11-marts-2020\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eat a press conference\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on 11 March as the country locked down, one of the first in Europe to do so. “We need community spirit. We need help. I would like to thank… all who have so far shown that this is exactly what we have in Denmark – samfundssind.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDanes responded enthusiastically. Private companies helped ease pressure on healthcare services by procuring medical equipment through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flaegemiddelstyrelsen.dk\u002Fda\u002Fudstyr\u002Fdanmark-hjaelper-danmark\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenmark Helping Denmark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E campaign – the response to which showed “incredible goodwill and community spirit,” according to the Danish Medicines Agency's Director General Thomas Senderovitz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral of Denmark most-loved attractions also stepped up: the Lego factory began manufacturing visors for healthcare workers; amusement park \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcopenhagen.com\u002Fcopenhagen\u002Fplanning\u002Ftivoli-gardens-gdk424504\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETivoli Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E turned into a temporary kindergarten, with social distancing guidelines in place; and double Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falchemist.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlchemist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pivoted from serving exclusive 50-course tasting menus to cooking pasta for 12 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.un.org\u002Fen\u002Fun-coronavirus-communications-team\u002Fdanish-michelin-star-chef-cooks-make-difference\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehomeless shelters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around Copenhagen. As well as appearing often in the news, the word has proliferated as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fsearch?q=%23samfundssind&src=typed_query\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esocial media hashtag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlighting acts of solidarity and kindness. But perhaps most importantly, everyday people showed community spirit by following the rules.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhich countries will recover first?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200615-why-finnish-people-tell-the-truth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Finnish people tell the truth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190217-what-to-do-when-hygge-no-longer-works\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret to Danish happiness?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn her speech, Frederiksen emphasised the need to follow government guidelines, and to start as soon as possible. Danes largely complied without a fuss. Observing that daycares and schools were emptied the morning after the announcement, four days before the measures went into effect, associate professor David Olagnier and professor Trine H Mogensen from the Department of Biomedicine at Aarhus University, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC7217796\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that this illustrates that “the Danes have a strong sense of social responsibility for their community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOlagnier and Mogensen also observed that, “Denmark is a country where trust regulates everything.” So, does the key to samfundssind lie with the simple fact that Danes trust their government, and one another, to do the right thing?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESocial trust promotes cooperation, wrote Kim Mannemar Sønderskov, professor of Political Science at Aarhus University, and Peter Thisted Dinesen, professor of Political Science at the University of Copenhagen, in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F264574693_Danish_Exceptionalism_Explaining_the_Unique_Increase_in_Social_Trust_Over_the_Past_30_Years\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea 2014 paper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The authors found that the level of social trust in Denmark is among the highest in the world and, moreover, that it dramatically increased over the 30-year period between 1979 and 2009. “In 1979, 47% of Danes expressed that ‘most people can be trusted’, whereas this share had increased to 79% in 2009.” The authors attribute this partly to “improved quality of state institutions, and a concomitant increase in citizens’ trust in these institutions”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe anti-corruption NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fcpi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETransparency International\u003C\u002Fa\u003E publishes an annual ranking of the world’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Fcpi-2019-global-highlights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eleast-corrupt countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This year, Denmark topped the table, tied with New Zealand. With a responsible government, politicians in Denmark enjoy a relatively high level of trust. When politicians “behave in an incorrupt manner,” write Sønderskov and Dinesen, “they send the signal that… most people can be trusted.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany visitors to Denmark remark upon witnessing a level of trust in the country that is rarely seen elsewhere. Driving around rural areas in the summer, for example, you’ll likely spot unattended roadside stalls selling farm produce with only an honesty box to collect payment. It’s not uncommon, either, to see prams with sleeping babies inside parked outside restaurants or cafes: a widely reported story from 1997, when a Danish woman was arrested during a visit to New York City \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1997\u002F05\u002F14\u002Fnyregion\u002Ftoddler-left-outside-restaurant-is-returned-to-her-mother.html?\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efor leaving her baby\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outside a restaurant, illustrates this culture clash. The ease with which parents can leave children unattended in Denmark is a product of a society that is less anxious about its fellow citizens. In 2016, the Ministry of Culture held a public vote to decide \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.danmarkskanon.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe country’s official values\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: trust was determined to be one of the most important. “The Danish culture of trust is based on an expectation that one’s fellow citizens and public institutions are reliable,” stated the Ministry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s an observation that Matt Orlando, the American-born chef and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famassrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another of Copenhagen’s top restaurants, has shared. “The amount of control and trust in government has been amazing,” he said, reflecting on his experience of the pandemic in Denmark. “In the sense that society has kept itself under control, because of the trust of the government: in the trust of the decisions being made [and] the transparency of everything.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The word has proliferated as a social media hashtag highlighting acts of solidarity and kindness","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOrlando is one of those who are absorbing the spirit of samfundssind into their post-pandemic lives. Alongside others in the restaurant industry, he formed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bowline.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBowline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a collaborative platform aimed at strengthening and supporting the restaurant community through the crisis and beyond. His fine dining restaurant has also become more community minded by dedicating half its dining space to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famassrestaurant.com\u002Fafc\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmass Fried Chicken & Wine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which serves more approachable food at a lower price.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPeople who relocate to Denmark from elsewhere quickly become familiar with one of the clearest examples of social trust in Denmark: its infamous tax rates. Danish residents accept some of the world’s highest taxes in the confidence that, by everyone paying their fair share, tax money will be put to good use for the common social good – universal healthcare, free university tuition and generous maternal and paternal leave, to name just a few examples. A culture where everyone is well looked after fosters trust and a sense of all being in it together. A sense of equality is also important. Denmark, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdata.oecd.org\u002Finequality\u002Fincome-inequality.htm#indicator-chart\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrganisation for Economic Co-operation and Development\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (OECD), has one of the lowest levels of income inequality in the world. Sønderskov and Dinesen write that “citizens in more economically equal societies also tend to have higher levels of trust. This is explained by a stronger sense of community among citizens.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHeavily \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-38254474\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esubsidised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through taxes, Danish daycare centres foster social mindedness early in life. “Almost everyone goes to public daycare in Denmark,” said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.howtoliveindenmark.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKay Xander Mellish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of the books How to Live in Denmark and How to Work in Denmark. “Even Prince Christian, the future King Christian XI, attended public daycare.” Every child born in Denmark is guaranteed a place in daycare from six months to six years of age where the emphasis is on playing and socialising – formal education doesn’t begin until age eight or nine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A culture where everyone is well looked after fosters trust and a sense of all being in it together","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“In the first few years,” said Mellish, “children learn the basic rules for functioning as a society. They learn how to sit at a table at lunch time, wait until it is their turn to be served, and feed themselves. In the playground, they spend most of their time in “free play”, in which they make up rules for their own games.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStaff generally don’t lead play, she explained, which “allows the children to form their own groups and learn how to work together on their own.” Often, Mellish added, schools start the day by singing a song together from the popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstorbritannien.um.dk\u002Fen\u002Fabout%20great%20britain\u002Fdanish-traditions\u002Fthe-folk-high-school-songbook\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHøjskolesangbogen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, (the Folk High School Songbook), a cultural tradition that extends to universities, offices and, on Wednesday mornings, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finternational.kk.dk\u002Fartikel\u002Fcopenhagen-main-library#:~:text=Communal%20singing%20is%20deeply%20rooted,needed,%20and%20anyone%20can%20attend.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECopenhagen Main Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Singing together is a big part of life for Danes of all ages, as anyone who’s visited at midsummer or Christmas time knows well. \u003Cem\u003EMorgensang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, communal morning singing, is beloved for the feeling of togetherness and solidarity it fosters, especially during challenging times, which explains why, during lockdown, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dr.dk\u002Fom-dr\u002Fabout-dr\u002Fbroadcast-community-sing-along-gathers-danes-through-corona-isolation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea fifth of the country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tuned in to join the conductor Philip Faber in a daily televised communal sing-along.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The idea that they are part of a community is impressed on Danes at a very young age,” Mellish said. “You can often win an argument in Denmark by suggesting that your opponent is \u003Cem\u003Eusolidarisk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or “showing a lack of solidarity”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDenmark was the first in Europe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thelocal.com\u002F20200528\u002Fhow-denmark-got-its-children-back-to-school\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto reopen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E schools and daycare centres in mid-April. The number of Covid-19 deaths in Denmark stands at under 700 at time of writing and, despite an early-autumn surge, infection rates remain relatively low. The country’s long tradition of putting society over self-interest – of considering the community stronger than the individual – seems to have been its strength.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-19T22:25:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The single word that connects Denmark","headlineShort":"The single word that connects Denmark","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Samfundssind – which is loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness” – has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis.","summaryShort":"The Nordic country has a long tradition of putting society over self-interest","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-10-18T21:40:26.386453Z","entity":"article","guid":"2268a994-c3b1-45e6-b0ee-9253763e822d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:55:46.299987Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","_id":"616ff6b445ceed54a3160f18","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENothing in modern memory has changed city life quite like Covid has. From the closure of city-centre offices to mask mandates to restaurant restrictions, pandemic precautions have transformed the landscape of cities across the world, likely for the long term. In fact, the pandemic is the first of its scale to happen to us as an \"urbanised\" species. When the Spanish Flu hit in the early 1900s, only 14% of humans lived in cities, but today that figure has risen to 57%, according to estimates by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpopulation.un.org\u002Fwup\u002FArchive\u002FFiles\u002Fstudies\u002FUnited%20Nations%20(1969)%20-%20Growth%20of%20the%20World's%20Urban%20and%20Rural%20Population,%201920-2000.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUN Population Division\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, cities have had to become even more vigilant in terms of health protections and overall security to better protect their populations. To clarify what changes have led to higher safety, the Economist Intelligence Unit recently released the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsafecities.economist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2021 Safe Cities Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 60 cities based on 76 safety indicators across infrastructure, digital life, personal security, environmental factors and, of course, health – with pandemic preparedness and Covid-19 mortality included this year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose ranked at the top of the index – including Copenhagen, Toronto, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo – all had factors that illustrate how overall safety correlates to a strong sense of social cohesion, total population inclusion and societal trust. We talked to residents in these cities to see how the changes wrought by the pandemic have made their cities more secure, inclusive and resilient; and what travellers still need to know to stay safe when they're finally able to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9td"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing in park at sunset, Copenhagen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copcap.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ECopenhagen\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked at the top of the index, Denmark's capital ranked particularly well due to the index's new environmental security pillar, which measures sustainability (including renewable energy incentives), air quality, waste management and urban forest cover. The latter absolutely had an impact in how well the city and its residents were able to cope with pandemic restrictions, which have been completely lifted as of September 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The parks and green areas as well as waterways were extremely popular during the pandemic. Copenhageners were strolling around buying takeaway and enjoying the city's many breathing spaces,\" said resident Asbjørn Overgaard, CEO of non-profit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copcap.com\u002F\"\u003ECopenhagen Capacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The city also continues to provide \"Corona-guides\" to assist people, as well as extensive signage and clear markings to create space between groups outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe community spirit of the country, best summed up in the Danish word \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, also enables citizens of the country to work together and trust each other — including government officials – to create a safer living environment. The Safe Cities Index found a high correlation between control of corruption and safer cities, so it's no surprise that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fcpi\u002F2020\u002Findex\u002Fnzl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenmark's ranking as one of the world's least corrupt countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has enabled its citizens to trust its institutions and each other throughout the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECopenhagen also implemented a massive Covid testing programme, which remains free for everyone, including tourists. The data gathered allows for the detailed monitoring of outbreaks; in addition, the city will be implementing wastewater testing to catch outbreaks early.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People boating in Lake Ontario, Toronto, with cityscape behind","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fwith-more-than-65-per-cent-of-homebound-residents-vaccinated-team-toronto-vaccination-partners-launch-homebound-sprint-to-complete-first-doses\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EToronto\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECanada's largest city ranked a close second in the index in overall safety, with strong scores in infrastructure and environmental security. Residents credit an inclusive culture that values targeted communication across communities, especially when it comes to vaccine awareness and adoption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToronto resident Farida Talaat points to how the city initiated a number of community-specific vaccination programmes to help make the city safer. For instance, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fwith-more-than-65-per-cent-of-homebound-residents-vaccinated-team-toronto-vaccination-partners-launch-homebound-sprint-to-complete-first-doses\u002F\"\u003EThe Homebound Sprint Vaccination\u003C\u002Fa\u003E plan worked to complete first doses for residents who couldn't leave their homes; and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcity-of-toronto-unveils-the-black-community-covid-19-response-plan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Scientists' Task Force on Vaccine Equity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was established early in the vaccination effort to ensure a more equity-based approach to inoculation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECountries with the most resilient economies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe single word that connects Denmark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's next superpowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals also feel safe because of the city's long history of multiculturalism. \"In Toronto, it is normal to be born outside Canada. I've found that different ethnic and cultural groups actually interact with each other and do not live in silos,\" said Filipe Vernaza, who has lived in the city since 1998. \"A typical group of people likely has people from different ethnicities, sexual orientations and religions. Toronto is an extremely open-minded city where you can feel safe being who you are.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Merlion statue on waterfront at Merlion Park and city buildings in Singapore","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanking second in digital security, health security and infrastructure security, Singapore used those strengths to move fast during the early days of the pandemic, rolling out digital monitoring and contact tracing quickly. The country also boasts one of the world's highest vaccination rates (currently at 80%), but still requires strict monitoring and contact tracing in the face of new variants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Before they can enter the buildings or premises, all residents need to scan their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\"\u003ETraceTogether\u003C\u002Fa\u003E token or phone app for SafeEntry check-ins,\" said Singapore resident Sam Lee, who runs an eponymous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.samleetravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etravel blog\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"This allows the [authorities] to track down individuals who might have mingled or interacted with the infected ones quickly so that a quarantine order can be carried out to contain or break the virus transmission link.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers also need to install the TraceTogether token or rent a phone with it installed before they get into the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWorking from home has become standard across most workplaces to reduce interactions, which Lee notes has led to less crowded public transportation. Tourist attractions and shopping malls have limited entrances, and \"Safe Distancing Ambassadors'' monitor crowds to ensure the public complies with health orders; individuals who break them face hefty fines. The public can also track crowds at malls, post offices and grocery stores with the newly launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spaceout.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpace Out tool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58496667\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESydney\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia's largest city scored fifth overall in the index, and in the top 10 for health security. Australia was one of the first countries to completely shut its borders during the pandemic and has maintained strict lockdowns in the face of rising cases – to positive effect. The per capita Covid death rate in Australia continues to be one of the lowest in the world. As vaccinations reach \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58496667\"\u003E70% in New South Wales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of those restrictions are expected to lift and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58757888\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternational borders are set to open\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in November.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlong with feeling protected from the pandemic, residents have long felt a strong sense of personal safety in the streets of Sydney. \"I have truly never felt as safe in a country as I have living in Sydney,\" said Chloe Scorgie, founder of Australian travel website \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpassportdownunder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPassport Down Under\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who first moved to Sydney in 2018. \"I travelled around Sydney as a solo female traveller and never felt like I was in any danger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city also ranked number one in digital security, which includes a city's privacy policy, cybersecurity protections and threats and overall smart city plan. Sydney has led this effort in part with its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au\u002Fstrategies-action-plans\u002Fsmart-city-strategic-framework\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESmart City strategic framework\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which outlines some of the innovations recommended for more connected, safer cities. For instance, the plan outlines how smart sensors could be placed in waste bins, streetlamps and benches to collect information on overall usage, transportation flows and pedestrian activity. Similarly, smart lighting and CCTV networks could improve after-dark safety and the night-time economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of these ideas are already being put to work in south Sydney in the form of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.georgesriver.nsw.gov.au\u002FCouncil\u002FAbout-Your-Council\u002FSmart-Cities\u002FSmart-ChillOUT-Hubs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChillOUT hubs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: open-air spaces where residents can meet up under smart lighting, connect to WiFi and plug in electronics, with data on usage sent back to city leaders so they can better understand and adapt to how their citizens interact with the city's infrastructure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two women wearing masks wipe and disinfect café counter in Tokyo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcoronavirus-pandemic-sports-lifestyle-business-2020-tokyo-olympics-9ac68d89a4124116a0a8d6cfc5e48eb7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETokyo\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJapan's capital ranked fifth in the overall index and at the very top of the health security index, which measures factors like universal healthcare, pandemic preparedness, life expectancy, mental health and Covid-19 mortality. Though cases surged during the Olympics, rates have fallen dramatically as vaccinations have reached nearly 60% of the population. In light of the positive news, Japan announced the end of the federal state of emergency and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcoronavirus-pandemic-sports-lifestyle-business-2020-tokyo-olympics-9ac68d89a4124116a0a8d6cfc5e48eb7\"\u003Egradual lifting of restrictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as of the end of September 2021. In their place, the country plans to encourage the use of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2021\u002F07\u002F22\u002Fnational\u002Fvaccine-passports-explainer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evaccine passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for admittance to medical facilities and large events, and even encourage businesses to offer discounts or coupons to passport holders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETokyo also scored in the top five for its infrastructure security, which includes transport safety, pedestrian friendliness and transportation networks. As a walkable city connected by rail, Tokyo was built to encourage walking and community engagement – which has, in turn, led to a stronger citizen participation in security in the forms of neighbourhood crime prevention and watches, and a shared sense of responsibility for crime prevention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the various lost-and-found centres at train stations to the almost unnecessary bike locks, there's an immense amount of respect towards the wellbeing of others,\" said Sena Chang, Tokyo resident and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theglobalyouthreview.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Global Youth Review\u003C\u002Fa\u003E magazine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe recalls a time she lost her shopping bag in the heart of the city, only to find it in the same place she had left it, along with a kind note. \"A centuries-long culture of collectivism and a great amount of respect for each other makes Tokyo the safest city I've lived in,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-07T20:09:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's five safest cities post-pandemic","headlineShort":"The world's safest cities in 2021","image":["p09xr9sn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.6761","longitude":"12.5683","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","promoImage":["p09xr9sn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","summaryShort":"Covid-19 has forced cities to re-evaluate what security means for urban life","tag":["tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-06T20:09:39.15459Z","entity":"article","guid":"91abeff3-e56a-4c6d-9448-7d741aa832a3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-06T20:09:39.15459Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcopenhagen","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftoronto","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsingapore","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsydney","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftokyo"],"destinationStat":"europe_denmark_copenhagen_north-america_canada_toronto_asia_singapore_australia-and-pacific_australia_sydney_asia_japan_tokyo","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets","_id":"616ff68045ceed44851c9dd0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Azima Ag Mohamed Ali was born and raised in the desert but came to Timbuktu to share the stories of the Sahara with travellers.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the sun neared the horizon, before the day's final call to prayer, Azima Ag Mohamed Ali began his nightly walk through the sandy streets of Timbuktu in Mali. Along the way, first one, then a second friend fell into step alongside him. The greetings continued long after the friends met, with soft handshakes slipping together and apart, as each asked, over and again, after the health of their friends and families. This call-and-response carried deep into the conversation, as unhurried as their pace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESwathed in voluminous robes of indigo, they passed through the streets of Timbuktu and continued out into the sand dunes, just beyond the city's western outskirts. Finally free of the city, they sat down in the sand and brewed a pot of tea as the heat drained from the day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09txx3l.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because although life in Timbuktu can be hard, if I drink the water of Timbuktu, if I see the sand dunes of the Sahara and if I see the kids of Timbuktu and they call my name, I feel like a rich man.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Azima Ag Mohamed Ali, storyteller\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The first tea is always strong like death,\" Ag Mohamed Ali said. \"The second is mild like life. And the third\", he smiled, \"is sweet like love. You must drink all three.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike many Tuareg, the once-nomadic people of the Sahara Desert, Ag Mohamed Ali was born out in the desert, far beyond Timbuktu. His birth certificate states that he was born in 1970, but it is an estimate used only for official documents. No-one really knows for sure. \"I think I am much older than that,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a child in the Sahara, danger was never more than one big sandstorm away: \"One day, when I was a small boy, I went to find water on my camel. On my way back to the camp, there was a sandstorm,\" he said. \"The sky was black and I couldn't even see my hand. There was no warning, maybe five minutes at the most. I sat down and waited for the storm to end. It lasted maybe three hours. Then I went back to the camp. But then we had to go and find my father because he had gone to look for me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAg Mohamed Ali was a teenager when he first saw the city that would later become his home. \"I couldn't believe the lights!\" he remembered. Members of his family still live a semi-nomadic existence out in the desert. But when he became an adult, drought and the need to earn a living drove Ag Mohamed Ali into Timbuktu, where he set up a business as a guide for tourists who wanted to explore the Sahara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis heart remained in the desert even when he had to be in the city. He refused to get a fixed-line telephone lest he come to depend upon it and never be able to leave. When he had no clients, he would escape to the desert, spending months at a time camping out, drinking tea with friends and sleeping under the stars. Whenever he had to be in town, the nightly foray into the dunes just outside the city was his escape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Ag Mohamed Ali travelled between desert and town, he bridged geographic spaces and spanned the ages, moving between a time of ancient desert traditions and the demands of modern life. Before tourists stopped coming to the Sahara , he was a tour guide; but among his own people, he remains a keeper of traditions and a teller of stories. And passing on those stories has become an obsession.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Street, buildings and trees in the Saharan desert city of Timbuktu, Mali","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My children were born in the desert, as is our custom,\" he said. \"We live in Timbuktu and I want them to go to school, not like me.\" Ag Mohamed Ali can speak seven languages though he never learned to read or write. \"But one day I will also take them to the desert for a long time, so that they can learn about the desert and know it well, so they don't lose the connection.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"By the 16th Century, more people – 100,000 – lived in Timbuktu than lived in London","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt has been nearly a decade since Ag Mohamed Ali has been able to show the beauty of the region to travellers. Rebellions and conflict across the Sahel and Sahara have stopped the flow of tourists, causing great hardship to the peoples of the desert, especially guides like Ag Mohamed Ali. His stories now ring like echoes of the halcyon days of Saharan travel. Even confronted with such difficulties, Ag Mohamed Ali looks forward to the day when travellers can return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ag Mohamed Ali and his children, the Sahara and Timbuktu is home. For the outside world, these places have come to represent the outer reaches of the known world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Middle Ages, Timbuktu stood at the confluence of some of Africa's most lucrative trade routes. It was where the great salt caravans of the Sahara met the trade that coursed along the Niger River. Salt, gold, ivory and luxury European goods like linen, perfumes and glass all passed through a city that was, at the time, one of the richest on Earth. By the 16th Century, more people – 100,000 – lived in Timbuktu than lived in London. The city had nearly 200 schools and a university that drew scholars from as far away as Granada and Baghdad. It was known for its libraries of priceless manuscripts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscoushttps:\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe couscous meal built on generosity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tiny isle with an 'unspoken' language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210728-the-nest-custodians-protecting-a-toddler-sized-bird\"\u003EThe odd birds given funeral rites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAg Mohamed Ali initiated travellers into Timbuktu's secrets. He took them to the private family libraries that still held manuscripts from Timbuktu's golden age – biographies of the Prophet Muhammad on pages of gold leaf and scientific treatises from the great Islamic scholars of the day. He showed them the Dyingerey Ber Mosque, where no-one has dared to open an ancient palm-wood door since the 12th Century; when the door opens, a local legend warns, evil will escape into the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs he shared the stories of Timbuktu with visitors, Ag Mohamed Ali came to understand the outside world's obsession with the city. He watched as tourists tried to reconcile Timbuktu's storied past with the modern sand-blown streets and ramshackle mud dwellings. He took them to the markets where camels still arrived bearing slabs of salt from the deep-Saharan mines of Taoudenni. And he hurried them to shelter as the harmattan, a red desert wind, turned the sky dark in a blizzard of sand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A building in the Saharan town of Araouane and the desert background nearing sunset","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a guide, Ag Mohamed Ali made friends from around the world, and he visited some in Europe. It was, to him, an alien world, just as Timbuktu remains for many around the globe. \"The first time I was in Europe,\" he said, \"and I saw water just lying on the ground, I thought 'these people are crazy'.\" And everything moved at a speed that was unthinkable in the Sahara. \"In the desert we have infinite time but no water,\" he said. \"In Europe, you have plenty of water but no time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, even so far from the desert, Ag Mohamed Ali found a connection: \"The first time I saw the ocean in Barcelona, I cried because it is like the desert. You cannot see its end.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAg Mohamed Ali's travels also helped him understand the appeal of Timbuktu, because Paris and Barcelona were as unbelievable to him as Timbuktu is to much of the rest of the world. He went to a football match at Barcelona's Camp Nou stadium. \"In the one place there were more people than in all Timbuktu,\" he remembered. He would later found a Timbuktu chapter of the FC Barcelona fan club.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen travellers wanted to see more of the Sahara, Ag Mohamed Ali took them to deep-desert Araouane, a sand-drowned town 270km north of Timbuktu. To get to Araouane, travellers must cross the Taganet sand sheet, which stretches, uninterrupted, to the far horizon. For the last 100km, there isn't a single tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAraouane itself has the appearance of a shipwreck. A number of its buildings have disappeared beneath the sands. Many of the houses that remain, even a mosque, lie half-submerged by the dunes that envelope the town. For weeks on end, the wind blows without respite, and sounds like ocean waves breaking on the shore. Women carry water from the well, leaning into the wind. Without the wells, life would be impossible here; sometimes it doesn't rain in Araouane for decades. Sand is everywhere, and nothing of any value, save for a single, forlorn wild date tree, can grow here.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man in blue robes walking in the Saharan Desert town of Araouane","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Before, to show that you were strong, you were a nomad,\" Ag Mohamed Ali said, when asked why people would live in such a place. \"Now, to show you are strong, you stay in one place, you become sedentary. That is why the people of Araouane stay here. It is to show that Araouane exists.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, for the tourists who visited there was undoubtedly more to it than that. There was something here that produced a sensation akin to exhilaration. It was the awe of vast skies and big horizons. It was the intimacy of lantern light flickering on mud ceilings as Ag Mohamed Ali told stories of salt caravans lost in sandstorms, stories that told of the uncanny ability of desert guides to find their way home in a world devoid of landmarks; sometimes they did this by tasting the sand or assessing its colour. It was the sand ridges perfectly sculpted by ceaseless winds, or the runic patterns written by wind on sand. And in the delicious remoteness lay an austere, end-of-the-world beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven as conflicts across North and West Africa have prevented visitors from coming to Timbuktu and Araouane for now, Ag Mohamed Ali wouldn't change where he lives for anything. \"When I am in the desert, I feel like a free man. I feel safe and I am never afraid. Here I can think. Here I can see everything. It is who I am. I never want to leave. It is my home.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Freasons-to-love-the-world\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Eor follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-07T10:41:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The nomad guide who decodes the Sahara's secrets","headlineShort":"The keeper of Saharan secrets","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man in blue robes walking in the Saharan Desert town of Araouane","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"16.7666","longitude":"3.0026","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Man in blue robes walking in the Saharan Desert town of Araouane","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Azima Ag Mohamed Ali was born and raised in the desert but came to Timbuktu to share the stories of the Sahara with travellers.","summaryShort":"Swathed in blue robes, this nomad guide is a keeper of the desert's stories","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-06T21:53:03.101925Z","entity":"article","guid":"ce28b76f-1abb-414a-99a1-01d1a1573173","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-07T12:49:35.75249Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city","_id":"616ff63945ceed10e528e504","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Home to some of the world’s most important medieval Quranic texts, this desert oasis was once an intellectual hub. But after more than 1,200 years, it may soon vanish.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERising like a mirage on the edge of Mauritania’s vast Erg Warane sand dunes, the ancient city of Chinguetti has welcomed travellers seeking shelter from the blistering Saharan heat for more than 1,200 years. Founded in the 8th Century as a caravan stop for pilgrims en route to Mecca, this red-stone desert oasis eventually blossomed into one of the biggest centres of science, religion and mathematics in West Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs pilgrims and scholars came and went, many left religious texts, scientific studies and historical manuscripts. In fact, so many of these historical documents accumulated over the years that during Chinguetti’s peak between the 13th and 17th Centuries, this thriving city boasted 30 libraries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, five of these original libraries remain and a team of loyal custodians humbly guards more than 1,000 priceless medieval Quranic manuscripts from the sand, wind and heat. But as the Sahara continues to expand southward at an alarmingly fast rate and encroach on Chinguetti’s flat-roofed buildings, and with climate change recently causing seasonal flash flooding to rip through the town, the future of these Islamic treasures remains in jeopardy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fincredible-libraries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Reel’s Incredible Libraries playlist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-10T21:17:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Chinguetti: Mauritania’s ancient Saharan city","headlineShort":"An ancient desert city in the Sahara","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Home to some of the world’s most important medieval Quranic texts, this desert oasis was once an intellectual hub. But after more than 1,200 years, it may soon vanish.","summaryShort":"This West African treasure may soon vanish","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-07-09T20:19:51.297902Z","entity":"article","guid":"74a9b01c-d2b8-4806-bdc6-08f4e7918ff0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:47:20.495323Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","_id":"616ff69345ceed4e5d207d1a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Since 1963, Mauritania’s 2km-long Train du Desert has carried iron ore and brave passengers 704km across the Sahara Desert.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWrapping my Touareg scarf around my face to shield my eyes from the sand and dirt, I climbed the ladder, hoisted myself onto the lip of the freight wagon and surveyed the scene. An endless line of wagons stretched out to the horizon, rocking and swaying. To either side, a landscape of boundless sandy plains and low dunes was sliding past, pin-sharp in the limpid light of the Sahara. Figures sat atop the wagons ahead, facing into the wind, yelling to each other in Arabic above the deafening noise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne might imagine travelling through the Sahara by train to be a zen-like voyage. In some ways it is – but it is also an unforgiving and ceaseless assault on the body and senses. The booming and grinding; the constant tremors rippling through the body; the grit swirling through your hair in the hot breeze; the desert sun pricking your eyelids.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpened in 1963, Mauritania’s Train du Desert operates a daily service from the port at Nouadhibou on the Atlantic coast to the iron ore mines in Zouerat in the country’s north-west. The full journey, which runs along the border of the disputed territory of Western Sahara, takes around 20 hours and covers a total distance of 704km. More than 2km long, the train is made up of three or four diesel locomotives, one passenger carriage and between 200 and 210 freight cars. When loaded on the westward journey to Nouadhibou, each car can carry up to 84 tons of iron ore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180305-the-freedom-railway-an-1860km-journey-across-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 1,860km journey across Africa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180718-from-africa-to-tea-with-the-queen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrom Africa to tea with the Queen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190516-a-journey-into-yangons-vibrant-daily-routine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Myanmar rail journey not to be missed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe train also carries passengers to and from distant desert communities, cutting up to 500km off the inconvenient journey by road, which involves a lengthy detour south to Nouakchott, Mauritania’s capital. Many Mauritanians choose – like my companion Mike and I had done – to forgo the overcrowded passenger carriage and ride “second-class” in the freight cars, free of charge. It is a noisy, dirty and dangerous journey: falls are common, and the temperature can reach well over 40C during the day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHardly strangers to discomfort, Mike and I had endured sweaty trains, rickety bunkhouses and hikes through mosquito-infested swamps in subarctic Russia. But this steel desert caravan was a new lesson in austerity – an empty, open-topped metal box, completely exposed to a constant elemental symphony of heat, wind and noise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s one of the longest trains in the world,” my father would tell us at the dinner table. “Imagine travelling hundreds of miles into the Sahara desert in a cargo wagon, then getting off before dawn in the middle of the desert, praying you’ve got the right stop. Then, just as the sun’s coming up, a jeep comes over the brow of the hill.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, I was fascinated by the story of my parents’ journey on the iron ore train, a mysterious adventure that seemed incompatible with the world I knew. In 1971, they had sailed from the Canary Islands to a port in what is now Western Sahara, then travelled south down the coast into Mauritania. Somewhere along the way they heard it was possible to catch a freight train into the country’s austere interior, to settlements that were once stops on ancient Saharan trade routes. They disembarked roughly 400km inland at Choum, where a dirt road leads to the market town of Atar and the medieval holy city of Chinguetti.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe only visual record of their experience was a single Kodak slide, a relic of a pre-digital age in which every frame counted: figures in a sun-drenched freight car, peering over the rim into a sandy infinity. I never forgot that image, and often dreamt of riding the iron ore train myself one day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDecades later, I was sitting atop a steel wagon, rolling into the Sahara. Mike and I would attempt to retrace my parents’ journey by disembarking at Choum then going on to Atar and Chinguetti. For me this was to be a kind of homage to the spirit of my parents; the realisation of a childhood dream; the closing of a circle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Nouadhibou, a fortunate encounter prepared us for the realities of life aboard the train. Aiba, our hotel receptionist, turned out to be invaluable. His dark eyes brightened when we told him of our plans. “Ah, the train! I’ve travelled on it so many times,” he exclaimed. “My father works in the mines at Zouerat.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAiba gave us plastic bags and tape to cocoon our backpacks from the dirt and dust that would be swirling around us. Then he drove us to the station and ensured we boarded the wagon that would stop closest to our station. Given the length of the train and the tiny scale of the settlements where it stops, a traveller could end up walking more than a kilometre to reach the station on arrival if they choose their wagon unwisely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was an odd contradiction in passing through the vast spaces of the Sahara inside a windowless steel box just 8m by 4m. So whenever the wagon began to seem too claustrophobic, we would haul ourselves up the ladders in the corners and spend a while perched on the rim in our robes, watching the dunes and scrub scroll by.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELate in the afternoon, the train began to lose speed. The blinding oblong of sky above us had weakened in intensity as the winter sun slipped lower, and most of our wagon was now in shadow. Eventually the train came to a halt in the middle of a lonely plain, stretched out in a wide curve hundreds of wagons long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPeople climbed down and began to congregate at the rear of the train, exchanging handshakes and greetings. Others hung back on the peripheries or watched silently from the windows of the dirt-streaked passenger carriage, an old European-built model with the inscription “Le Train du Desert” unfurling across it. It was a convivial scene that seemed oddly out of place, as if they were chatting in a theatre foyer during an intermission rather than travelling through the desert on a cargo train.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Imagine travelling hundreds of miles into the Sahara desert in a cargo wagon, then getting off before dawn in the middle of the desert, praying you’ve got the right stop","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong them were the traders occupying the wagons ahead of us; black Africans and Arabs alike, lean young men in leather jackets and sportswear. We had seen them at Nouadhibou, hauling overstuffed bags onto the train. Then there were older men, presumably Bidan Moors from the country’s upper caste, standing aloof in their billowing white and azure \u003Cem\u003Eboubou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E robes, their heads swaddled in Touareg headscarves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe motley composition of the group reflected the complex ethnic realities of Mauritania, a country that sits at the fault line between the Arab and Sub-Saharan worlds and truly belongs to neither. Life in this nation, which only outlawed slavery in 1981, continues to be governed by a strict caste system in which there is little social contact between the paler Bidan elite and the Haratin underclass, largely composed of Mauritanians of Berber and African descent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I mingled with fellow passengers, the train’s role as an overland link between Nouadhibou and the remote desert communities of central Mauritania became ever clearer. Abdurahman, a young man with striking Moorish features and an intense gaze, informed me solemnly that he and his friends were travelling to Zouerat to look for work. An older man named Mohammed was on his way to visit his son in Atar, as he did several times a year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the sun sank, some walked out into the desert to pray, while others sprawled on the soft sand. Eventually a blast of the horn from the locomotive signalled that it was time to move on, and the passengers hastily sought the safety of the train, like sailors returning to their vessel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater, as darkness enveloped the landscape and the air grew chilly, the train’s human cargo hunkered down in their wagons. Soon the sky above us was glittering with stars. Mike laid out a blanket in a part of the wagon that was free of dirt, then we slumped down and tried to sleep, wrapped in Berber robes. Later, shivering in the cold, we understood why this area was clear of dust – not only was it the cleanest spot, it was also the windiest. We swiftly relocated to the dirtiest corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the middle of the night, tired of fruitless efforts to sleep, I sat up. The train was standing idle in the moonlight. A stillness seemed to have fallen across the world. Outside, the windows of the passenger carriage several wagons behind us were throwing an eerie halo of light into the darkened desert. In the distance, jagged black mountains rose incongruously out of the endless flat sands. I imagined my parents all those years ago, wondering anxiously if this was where they needed to disembark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen a whoosh, a roar and several gigantic locomotives shot by in the other direction. Wagons heaped with dark hills of iron ore thundered past, bathed eerily in the glow of our passenger carriage. I picked out three figures, crouched around a charcoal heater; then herds of goats, standing motionless on the ore. Seconds later, the wagons were gone, leaving only clouds of slowly settling dust. Our train jolted to life again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround 12 hours after leaving Nouadhibou, we shuddered to a halt in the frigid darkness at Choum. For a few seconds there was silence, then voices and torchlight. We peered over the lip of the wagon. Headlights were lazily swimming in the gloom below, and the sounds of urgent activity issued from the neighbouring wagons. Knowing we had only a few minutes, we hastily hauled our bags down the ladder to where an ancient Peugeot was waiting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA wrinkled face leaned out of the window: “Atar? Atar?” We gratefully tumbled in. Beside us, the wagons began to roll again, booming past us through the dust before vanishing into the night. The driver, who seemed to have mistaken us for locals in our robes, began chattering away in Arabic, but the gentle motion of the car soon lulled me to sleep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a guesthouse in Chinguetti the next evening, fronds of date palms whispering above us, my head still reverberated with the roar and rattle of rolling stock. I half-recalled fumbling with documents at police checkpoints in the darkness, wandering the dust-blown streets of Atar at dawn, stealing a couple of hours’ sleep on a carpet in the bare back room of a taxi garage, then bumping across a rocky wasteland in a creaking car, Mike dozing against the window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChinguetti was a place of fascinating dislocation, its ancient libraries and nameless streets collapsing slowly into piles of stones amid an endless sea of billowing golden dunes. Out of time, it was an elegiac picture of vanished glory, a place that was slowly forgetting itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd in the following days, as we languished here amid the ruins, the train that had brought us came to seem less and less real, as if the whole experience had just been the product of some feverish, chaotic dream, or perhaps an imaginary memory whose details were already beginning to blur imperceptibly with those of my parents’ journey all those years ago. But for almost a week, specks of iron ore dust continued to trickle from my ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-05T19:46:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"An exhilarating train journey across the Sahara","headlineShort":"The longest train in the world?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Since 1963, Mauritania’s 2km-long Train du Desert has carried iron ore and brave passengers 704km across the Sahara Desert.","summaryShort":"It is more than 2km long and covers a total distance of 704km","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-09-04T18:59:21.448659Z","entity":"article","guid":"49218a12-7c80-40aa-acd3-419661846444","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:20:26.545672Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara","_id":"616ff63645ceed20b57c53d6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjuan-martinez"],"bodyIntro":"While the Sahara's captivating blue attire is becoming a relic from the past, in Mauritania, the fashion tradition is still alive and looks like it's here to stay.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Saharan \u003Cem\u003Edaraa \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor \u003Cem\u003Eboubou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a long and loose gown, and \u003Cem\u003Etagelmusts\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cloth veil that is used as a turban, are two key clothing staples for the traditionally nomadic men of the Sahara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2kbs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The daraa and tagelmusts are two key clothing staples for the Sahara's nomadic men","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDressed for harsh conditions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe garments' northern African origins can be traced back hundreds of years, as far as the 7th and 8th Centuries, to the early times of the trans-Saharan trade between Sub-Saharan and North Africa. And while some locals will say the clothing symbolises a shyness and modesty of the people, most agree that its basic function is to protect against the sun, as well as the frequent sandstorms of the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The style and shape of our daraa not only allows the right airflow in these difficult environments, but also helps the Saharan men to conserve body water in the middle of the desert,\" said local Mauritanian guide Dahid Jdeidou (pictured).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, with more people settling in larger cities, and fashion styles trending towards those from the West, the attire the Saharan men once wore to traverse the hot desert has largely become a relic from the past. Yet, in Mauritania, where most men wear the daraa and tagelmusts in captivating shades of blue, it's still alive – and it looks like it's here to stay for quite some time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k9y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The trans-Saharan trade era brought many different ethnic groups into Mauritania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFashion born from trade\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring the trans-Saharan trade era, new commerce hubs sprang up on the outskirts of the desert, and various ethnic groups traded in-demand items across North Africa such as spices, minerals, animals and textiles. Over the centuries, the trade brought many different groups into Mauritania – including the nomadic Tuareg from the north-east, the Haratin from the south-east and the Haalpulaar from the south. As these different groups settled alongside the Berbers (known locally as Amazigh), who have lived in Mauritania since the 3rd Century, the Muslim faith and Arabic language prevailed, but new cultural traditions emerged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArchitectural designs evolved, books from around the Sahara made their way into local libraries, and fashion trends from across North Africa merged to make a new style in the form of the long, flowing, wide-sleeved tunic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k9l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Books from around the Sahara made their way into libraries during the trans-Saharan trade","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA melting pot of the Sahara\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike other tunic-style clothing such as the kimono from Japan or the kaftan originating in ancient Mesopotamia, the daraa has found a place in fashion history. The first versions of the clothing are thought to have come from the Haalpulaar, who resided along the Senegal River between modern-day Senegal and Mauritania.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEventually, populations from all social statuses wore daraas, but colours depended on one's station in life. Wealthy merchants wore chalk-white daraas and tagelmusts, as they could afford to clean their clothes every day, while enslaved people would typically wear black, as they often worked in unclean environments and had to wear the same clothing repeatedly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the lack of natural colourful dyes around the Sahara, coloured daraas appeared only after the Haalpulaar started trading natural indigo dye and indigo-dyeing techniques became popular. These dark blue-coloured daraas were perfect for people who couldn't afford white daraas, but who also didn't want to wear black ones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k94"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Tuareg people are considered the \"blue men of the Sahara\"","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Sahara's \"blue men\"\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the Haalpulaar might have established the indigo daraas, it was the Tuareg people who adopted and popularised the fashion, and are considered the \"blue men of the Sahara\" – a name they eventually got because the colour of their clothing rubbed off onto their skin while being under the hot sun. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Anja Fischer, researcher of Saharan studies at the University of Vienna, the influence of the Haalpulaar could have led to big changes for Tuareg fashion. \"Tuareg people used to wear leather clothes, and at some point, they switched to the blue fabrics they are mostly known for today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nomad guide who decodes the Sahara's secrets\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChinguetti: Mauritania's ancient Saharan city\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn exhilarating train journey across the Sahara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Tuareg, who now inhabit a vast area stretching from Libya to Algeria, Niger, Mali and Burkina Faso, were traditionally one of the largest populations of nomads in the Sahara and were influential in the spreading of Islam in Africa. They were known across the Sahara, and the fashion style they adopted in Mauritania became recognised across North Africa, and later around the world. To this day, their fashion styles express their nomadic culture and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k8r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Today, people wear light blue daraas for their similarity to traditional white daraas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA new standard in blue\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent decades, with the arrival of chemical dyes from Asia and Europe and low-cost dyeing techniques such as bale dyeing (an easy process in which the fabrics are put through a cold-water bath), a variety of blue shades became possible. And with the rise of the middle class in Mauritanian towns and cities, people have been increasingly choosing light blue daraas for their similarity to traditional white daraas and the social status they symbolise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A light blue daraa looks like the white one, but it only needs to be cleaned every three to four days,\" said Jdeidou.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k89"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Many blue items are for sale in Nouakchott's central market","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA world coloured in blue\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe central market in Mauritania's capital, Nouakchott, is truly a blue world. Many sellers offer only blue clothing, and at least one out of every four men wears some shade of a blue daraa. In Mauritania the blue colour extends beyond clothing, and can be found in blankets and stall umbrellas, but also in architectural elements such as doors, ceilings and fences.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the colour blue represents the sky and divinity in the Quran, local Mauritanians have a more practical reason to use it: it's the perfect colour for protection from the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k75"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Many daraas in Mauritania are embellished with gold and white embroidery","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDress to impress\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe very first daraas were made of silk, but were later considered to be \u003Cem\u003Eharam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an Arabic term meaning \"forbidden\" under Muslim law. Today, at shops in Nouakchott, it's common to see daraas made from polyester, muslin and the wool of camels and goats, in addition to silk versions for non-Muslims. Many daraas in Mauritania are also embellished with gold and white embroidery, and some even have several internal and external pockets – details that would have been rare centuries ago but are useful in today's modern, urban world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere have been attempts to introduce more Western clothing in Mauritania, however, most have failed. According to Hademine Ahmedou, a local guide from the town of Zouérat, teachers there were once told to avoid wearing a daraa while working and to start adopting the smart dress culture from Europe or North America. Nevertheless, many Mauritanians couldn't bear to leave their traditional daraa and its cultural importance behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k5k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EProud of their nomad heritage\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile elements of the traditional attire have been lost in most cities across the Sahara, men proudly wear their blue daraas in Nouakchott. They have become such an integral part of Mauritanian culture that even businessmen dressed in smart suits wear a custom daraa instead of a blazer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is comfortable, easy to clean and looks good\", said Jdeidou (pictured) with a smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09x2k55"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"In Mauritania, younger generations regularly wear blue daraas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA trend for generations to come\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile most Saharan countries now look to the West for fashion trends, in Mauritania, change seems a long way off. The younger generations are also proud of their traditions and regularly wear daraas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also hints of the clothing appearing in the modern fashion world. Recently, versions of Saharan tagelmusts have inspired trendy scarves in Europe. And this year, luxury Italian fashion house Valentino drew inspiration from the traditional Saharan daraa in designing its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.valentino.com\u002Fen-ar\u002Fdenim-shirts_cod2204324140530014.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espring\u002Fsummer 2021 collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs more and more cultural traditions are becoming endangered in today's fast-paced, ever-changing world, the blue daraa and tagelmusts – and the long-held traditions they represent – still continue to shine from the Sahara to the rest of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel’s \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fin-pictures\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIn Pictures\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series that highlights stunning images from around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-28T13:51:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The blue men of the Sahara","headlineShort":"The blue men of the Sahara","image":["p09x2k4x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Fashion styles symbolise the Tuareg's nomadic culture and traditions","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"18.0673211","longitude":"-16.0236014","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Men proudly wear blue daraas in Nouakchott","promoImage":["p09x2k4x"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200709-chinguetti-mauritanias-ancient-saharan-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While the Sahara's captivating blue attire is becoming a relic from the past, in Mauritania, the fashion tradition is still alive and looks like it's here to stay.","summaryShort":"Their traditional clothing has adapted to today's modern, urban world","tag":["tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-27T14:11:46.709236Z","entity":"article","guid":"2c292535-08ca-47ce-8d56-72d3299aaab6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-28T12:22:16.349207Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmauritania","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_mauritania_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","_id":"616ff66045ceed29461c7e62","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sunroof was open and the tinted windows were wound down. It was the closest I could get to soaking in the surrounds of desert and sea under the cloud-sailing sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was on Indian Ocean Drive heading a couple of hours north of Perth to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westaustralianexplorer.com\u002Fstromatolites-at-lake-thetis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Thetis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on Western Australia’s wildcard Coral Coast. Like an M C Escher drawing, the landscape morphs from market gardens to limestone-spotted scrub, soundtracked with clattering windmills drawing water from the Yarragadee Aquifer formed during the Jurassic era. There were white-trunked eucalypts and punk-haired grass trees sprouting in their thousands, flocks of black cockatoos in raucous flight and, sadly, dozens of kangaroos that had ended their days as roadkill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing on a road trip along the coast of the oldest continent on Earth was bound to be steeped in mysteries. As I passed green and yellow road signs warning to keep a look out for kangaroos, emus and echidnas, there was another rare life form I was seeking an audience with – one that traces its ancestry to the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStromatolites are living fossils and the oldest living lifeforms on our planet. The name derives from the Greek, \u003Cem\u003Estroma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “mattress”, and \u003Cem\u003Elithos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “rock”. Stromatolite literally means “layered rock”. The existence of these ancient rocks extends three-quarters of the way back to the origins of the Solar System.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith a citizen scientist’s understanding, stromatolites are stony structures built by colonies of microscopic photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria. As sediment layered in shallow water, bacteria grew over it, binding the sedimentary particles and building layer upon millimetre layer until the layers became mounds. Their empire-building brought with it their most important role in Earth’s history. They breathed. Using the sun to harness energy, they produced and built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELiving stromatolites are found in only a few salty lagoons or bays on Earth. Western Australia is internationally significant for its variety of stromatolite sites, both living and fossilised. Fossils of the earliest known stromatolites, about 3.5 billion years old, are found about 1,000km north, near Marble Bar in the Pilbara region. With Earth an estimated 4.5 billion years old, it’s staggering to realise we can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time when the continents were forming. Before plants. Before dinosaurs. Before humans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn extraordinary landscape at the edge of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fight to save Australia’s ancient dinosaur trees\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia’s answer to the Northern Lights\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Indian Ocean Drive beat along. Every now and then through the scrub I caught glimpses of the blowy, white-capped turquoise water. Then snatches of the stark white, rippling sand dunes of the town of Lancelin. This is a coastline of shipwrecks and lobster shacks, of the scouring Roaring Forties, the wild westerly \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20151009-where-is-the-windiest-place-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estorm-bearing winds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whipping the latitudes 40 and 50 degrees south, and the summer-soothing winds of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFremantle Doctor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, colloquially named for the relief it brings on a searing summer’s afternoon. This is a wild, weathered coast of enchantment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was almost at Cervantes, the rock lobster capital of the coast on the northern edge of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australiascoralcoast.com\u002Fdestination\u002Fcervantes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENambung National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A couple of kilometres down a dirt road, I reached Lake Thetis, the home of the stromatolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis was small, shallow and triangular. The bush track wound through thick-leaved, blue-petalled fanflower, seed-headed rushes and rashes of red-beaded samphire. Every now and then, the local kangaroos popped their heads up to check us out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then I saw them. There were thousands of pumice-hued stromatolites quasi-camouflaged beneath the ripples, submerged like migrations of ancient turtles holding their breaths under the slightly opaque water. I was awestruck. Blocking out the peripheral surrounds and imagining the sky methane orange from volcanic activity, this is what life looked like at the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis is just more than 2m deep and double the salinity of the sea. The lake became isolated about 4,800 years ago when the sea level fell during the last major glacial epoch. Shorelines receded and coastal dunes trapped the water inland, creating the lake. These stony oxygen givers are estimated to have been growing for about 3,500 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA metal walkway braces out over the lake so you can see the stromatolites beneath. On the 1.5km walk that circumnavigates the lake, it’s look, but don’t touch, as many of the these ancient relics have been damaged by people carelessly walking on them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut there’s another side of the stromatolite family that is present on this stretch of coast. Evolutionary progress around a billion years ago started a slow segue that saw the layered stromatolites disappear as another variation emerged. They were their younger cousins: the thrombolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour’s drive south of Perth, I took the Old Coast Road into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fyalgorup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYalgorup National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westernaustralia.com\u002Fen\u002FAttraction\u002FLake_Clifton_Thrombolites\u002F56b2671b2cbcbe7073ae0f3b#\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Clifton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, home to the largest lake-dwelling thrombolites in the Southern Hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the charismatic science presenter and University of Manchester’s rock star of particle physics, Professor Brian Cox, visited the thrombolites for his documentary series, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00zdhtg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonders of the Universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his awe for the “weird, rocky blobs in the shallows” inspired many travellers to seek out Lake Clifton, to see “the first life on Earth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrombolite derives from the same root as thrombosis, which means “clot”. Thrombolites are clotted in appearance, whereas stromatolites are layered. According to the late Dr Linda Moore from the University of Western Australia, stromatolites went into decline at a time where there was an explosion of more advanced marine life. Their ecosystem became challenged as the predator amoeba and other single-celled organisims called foraminifera used their finger-like extensions to engulf stromatolites, turning their fine, layered structures into clumps. To survive, stromatolites needed highly saline water that restricted other competing sea life, whereas thrombolites adapted. They survived and prospered in an environment less salty than the sea, their clotted texture providing a home where tiny fauna could coexist. With an impressive ancient lineal ancestry, Lake Clifton’s thrombolites are estimated to be a youthful 2,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere, too, a boardwalk ventures through the reeds and over the brackish lake, where beneath, the thrombolites can be viewed. With careful watching, you can see tiny strings of oxygen rising to the water’s surface. They are breathing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?v=881210708907989\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoongar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people of this region, their Dreamtime story tells the origin of the thrombolites. With the land dry, the Noongars prayed to the sea for the water to become fresh. Their creator left the sea in the form of the serpent, Woggaal Maadjit. She pushed through the sand dunes, creating an inlet. She laid her eggs (the thrombolites) and curled her body to protect them (the sand dunes protecting the lake). The baby serpents from the eggs that hatched carved out rivers, then when dying, they tunnelled underground forming subterranean springs on their way back to the Dreamtime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese springs provided fresh water for the Noongar people. From a scientific point of view, the microbial thrombolites use sunlight to photosynthesise for energy and to precipitate calcium carbonate (limestone) from the freshwater springs that bubble from the underlying aquifer. Groundwater flow that is low in salinity and nutrients and high in alkalinity is integral to their growth and survival; any alteration challenges their existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Clifton is a fragile environment. In 2009, the thrombolites were listed as critically endangered and are now protected under the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fwater\u002Fwetlands\u002Framsar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, placing this area in the same category as the Ramsar-listed, World Heritage \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnorthernterritory.com\u002Fkakadu-and-surrounds\u002Fdestinations\u002Fkakadu-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKakadu National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia’s largest national park that preserves the greatest variety of ecosystems on the continent. Conservation actions for Lake Clifton now include the construction of the boardwalk to prevent crushing the thrombolites, monitoring water quality and levels, protecting the buffer of native vegetation that helps filter nutrients and pollutants, monitoring the health of the thrombolite community and liaising with urban and agricultural landholders to manage and protect water quality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Survival for these ancient organisms is tenuous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese stepping stones of life are in need of protection. The change in climate is affecting the lake’s salinity. Encroaching urbanisation has increased the inflow of nutrients, causing algal bloom that blocks sunlight and smothers the thrombolites. In just more than 100 years of human-induced stresors on the lake, survival of these ancient organisms is tenuous. Like the Dreamtime serpent, Woggaal Maadjit, it is up to us to protect them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-18T20:42:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Stromatolites: The Earth’s oldest living lifeforms","headlineShort":"A billion-year-old living organism","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","summaryShort":"They date three-quarters of the way back to the Solar System’s origins","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-01-17T20:55:12.712206Z","entity":"article","guid":"35fe61a4-962b-4ce3-834c-7c7218d695d8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:02:19.53789Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food","_id":"616ff62a45ceed1e5f380bf1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"There’s no cure for a mysterious type of food poisoning known as ciguatera. But as our planet warms, it’s likely to become much more common.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne thing I’ve come to love about travelling around Mexico is that you’re rarely far from a toilet. Yes, it will cost you five pesos (£0.20), but it’s a small price to pay for a few folded squares of toilet paper, a clean seat and peace of mind (and bottom). But what I didn’t know as I explored Oaxaca last May, spending a few pesos to slowly, sweatily tour the bathrooms of the city’s cathedral, a few ceramics shops and the sprawling Mercado de Abastos, was that I didn’t have a typical, run-of-the-mill case of food poisoning. I had what I now lovingly call “my freaky fish poisoning”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome 12 hours after that first wave of nausea, as I was sitting alone in my holiday rental, the numbness in my fingers and toes crawled up to my wrists and ankles. The odd tingling felt as though I’d woken up in an odd position and my hands and feet were asleep – only instead of gradually improving and returning to normal, the numbness just steadily continued. It suddenly occurred to me that if it persisted, I might struggle to call for help by the time I needed it. So I did the only rational thing I could think of at the time: I walked down the street for ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe culprit, I would eventually find out, was \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fcaribbean\u002Fnews\u002Fstory\u002F2010\u002F12\u002F101213_fish.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eciguatera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: a strange, specific form of food poisoning stemming from a toxin in certain types of fish. It is acutely misirable for 12 hours and has effects that often last months and sometimes years. There’s no way to screen fish for it and no known cure, and it’s likely to become far more common as climate change warms our oceans and causes more storms, and more widespread as more fish is exported around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There’s no way to screen fish for it and no known cure, and it’s likely to become far more common as climate change warms our oceans","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGiven that I wasn’t exactly eating a ton of seafood as I chowed through the inland city of Oaxaca’s corn-based specialties – tlayudas, tetelas and tamales– I can take an educated guess and blame the illness on the ceviche I ordered from a high-end restaurant in the city centre. But, as in all food poisoning cases, without lab testing that specific dish, there’s no way to know for sure. And as I would soon learn, being aware of the danger would have been unlikely to stop me getting it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs someone who views food as an accessible entry point to a local culture, I consider eating anything and everything I encounter to be an informative and delightful way to learn about a place and its people. I’ve never exercised caution around what I eat while I travel – beyond smartly skipping an oddly grey hamburger on a regional South-East Asian airline that felled my husband for a few days. This has, of course, bitten me once or twice, usually resulting in a rough night, though nothing serious. But standing in El Llano Park that afternoon, licking my scoop of \u003Cem\u003Ezapote negro \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a persimmon-like black fruit) ice cream, I had no idea that months later I would still be feeling the repercussions: rolling around in my bed in Seattle, unable to sleep because of the numbness and tingling in my fingers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Mindy Richlen, a research specialist at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.whoi.edu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWoods Hole Oceanographic Institution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who studies harmful algal blooms, ciguatera poisoning comes from eating fish contaminated with ciguatoxins, which come from a tropical dinoflagellate (tiny single-cell organism) that lives on microalgae growing, mostly, on dead coral. More plainly: dead reefs breed infected fish food, and humans get sick when they eat the fish that eat it. While ciguatera initially presents itself as standard food poisoning, it eventually morphs into numbness in the fingers and toes that recurs for months or even years, and sometimes causes a switching of hot and cold sensations (a side effect I thankfully lucked out of, but which leads people to think their cold soda is burning them or causes them to drink far-too-hot coffee).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) states that up to 50,000 cases of ciguatera poisoning are reported annually worldwide, but nobody really knows how common it is","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite rising ocean temperatures and related weather phenomena bringing ciguatera \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-hereford-worcester-37718452\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto the headlines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the toxin is extremely common and has been around for a long time. Back in the 4th Century BC, Alexander the Great supposedly forbade his soldiers to eat fish because of an illness thought to be ciguatera. It was fascinating to read the 18th-Century description by one of Captain James Cook’s crewmates of what was likely ciguatera poisoning as they explored the South Pacific aboard the HMS Revolution and compare it to my own. “The fingers, legs and toes, felt often as if benumbed: nay the whole limbs became in some measure paralytic.” The following decade, Vice-Admiral William Bligh may have contracted ciguatera after eating mahi mahi while he and his loyalists were stranded on an island following the storied \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180517-the-island-fruit-that-caused-a-mutiny\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMutiny on the Bounty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwwnc.cdc.gov\u002Ftravel\u002Fyellowbook\u002F2020\u002Fpreparing-international-travelers\u002Ffood-poisoning-from-marine-toxins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that up to 50,000 cases of ciguatera poisoning are reported annually worldwide, but nobody really knows how common it is, because, like me, many people don’t realise what they have until long after they’ve consumed the fish. Plus, the only way to truly ascertain if the fish is contaminated is by testing it in a lab. Ciguatera has been blamed for a tiny number of deaths over the years – mostly due to complications stemming from the effects of the toxin on the neurological and digestive system – but it’s rarely fatal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fis-this-the-future-of-underwater-exploration\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the future of underwater exploration?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexico City's 'walking fish'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170608-a-sauce-made-from-flying-ants\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA sauce made from flying ants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Ciguatera is often overlooked,” said Richlen. “If you go in the literature, there will be these wild estimates like ’50 to 500,000 people are poisoned per year,’” because it’s hard to really know who has it. Fish carrying the ciguatoxin don’t look any different; there’s no feasible way to test fish for it; and neither cooking nor freezing the fish kills it. There’s also no known cure or antidote for ciguatera poisoning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe day after my poisoning, numbness lingered in my hands and feet as I boarded a plane to Mexico City. But it soon faded and I didn’t think about it again until a few weeks later. Lying in bed after a lavish sushi meal on the Baja Peninsula, I felt just like that night in Oaxaca, minus the digestive issues. So, like any good millennial, I consulted Dr Google to see what could be going on and finally landed on information about an illness that matched my symptoms. The timing of my initial digestive symptoms in Oaxaca and the related numbness tracked perfectly, but the clinching factor in my self-diagnosis was when I got to the segment about long-term effects.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe online info noted that recurrent episodes of the neurological effects of ciguatera – such as numbness – are thought to be tied to eating certain foods, including one of my personal sushi favourites, red snapper. A fun piece of the puzzle is that nobody really knows which foods, though fish is a likely one, particularly reef fish. Various sources list peanuts, chicken, pork, alcohol, caffeine and even exercise as likely triggers. Oddly, in the months since I first contracted ciguatera, I’ve found Sichuan food to be a particular one for me, though I have no idea what specific ingredient that might be related to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMost diagnoses of ciguatera are based on the type of fish the person eats and the region where the fish was caught. It’s particularly common in the tropical Caribbean, Indian and Pacific oceans – the kind of sunshine-filled, beach-boasting places that pepper travellers’ dreams – and from eating reef fish like snappers and groupers.  But after consulting my photo of the menu at the high-end Oaxaca restaurant where I think I contracted ciguatera, it only revealed that I ordered the “fish of the day”, served as a ceviche and marinated in “\u003Cem\u003Erecado negro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (black chilli sauce), served with cucumbers, red onions and habanero peppers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the latitudes of Oaxaca fall within the CDC’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwwnc.cdc.gov\u002Ftravel\u002Fyellowbook\u002F2020\u002Fpreparing-international-travelers\u002Ffood-poisoning-from-marine-toxins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eguidelines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of where most poisonings take place (between 35°S and 35°N), no instances have been officially reported here. Given the unknown origin of the fish I ate and the clarity of my symptoms, Richlen agreed that it was likely ciguatera. But since there’s nothing that can be done about it once you have it, an official diagnosis (were there a way to test for it) would be pretty useless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The areas where people are contracting ciguatera are changing due to another reason: climate change","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo Richlen, the lack of information about the fish that sickened me highlights one of the biggest issues with ciguatera. “With the increased export of fish around the world, you're going to have people [contracting it] in [landlocked] places like the [American] Midwest,” she said. Richlen cites a 2004 outbreak at a Hong Kong fish market from bringing in fish from the South Pacific. According to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002F3\u002Fi9540en\u002Fi9540en.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnited Nations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from 1976 to 2016, the amount of seafood exported around the world for human consumption grew by 514%, and it is projected to grow another 24% by 2030. Another researcher working on ciguatera at Florida Gulf Coast University, Dr Mike Parsons, mentions that he fielded a call from a lawyer whose clients contracted ciguatera from eating barracuda in New York City.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EParsons also believes that the areas where people are contracting ciguatera are changing due to another reason: climate change. “I think people will be catching toxic fish in areas [where] ciguatera was not prevalent before.” Richlen and Parsons explained that warming ocean temperatures have changed the range of where ciguatera grows: the water has become too warm for the toxic dinoflagellate to grow in places where it once did, while it now flourishes farther north where it used to be too cold. In places like the Gulf of Mexico, Parsons explained, the tropical and subtropical dinoflagellate used to die back in winter, but now stays and grows year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother element of prime ciguatera growth, though, is Parsons’ specific area of expertise: the relationship between the prevalence of ciguatoxins (and the marine life carrying it) and damaged coral reefs. Whether due to bleaching, increased hurricane activity or reef degradation from human activities, he said, “I would expect to see ciguatera flaring up as reef health declines.” Currently, he’s comparing the distribution of the toxic dinoflagellates in areas of the Bahamas that were hit and spared by Hurricane Dorian in August.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the ongoing study of ciguatoxins, there’s still not a ton of reliable information about why dead reefs breed them. According to Richlen, dinoflagellates live on a type of algae that thrives in dead reefs, and this algae is the preferred food for many reef fish. The fish think they wandered into the marine version of a candy shop, goble up the toxin-laced algae and spike the likelihood of humans contracting ciguatera. In the last 30 years, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Farticles\u002F3ShcTJ032pp1z2mmkBJMhLX\u002F10-amazing-facts-about-coral-reefs-and-one-terrible-truth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50% of all of the world’s corals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have died due in large part to climage change, and some predictions say 90% may die in the next century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs someone who travels around many of the areas where ciguatera is endemic, I asked Richlen and Parsons if there’s anything they would avoid when travelling help prevent contracting ciguatera. Both immediately cited barracuda, a prime ciguatera culprit because it eats the smaller, contaminated reef fish. But Richlen recommended not eating reef fish, in general, like snapper and grouper. “Reefs are under so much pressure from a variety of sources, including overfishing. I probably would just skip it for multiple reasons,” she said. Parsons said that he knows of resorts on St Thomas and St Croix, among other islands, that go so far as to import their fish. “They won't use the local fish because they don't trust it enough, they don't want their clientele to get sick.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe also noted out that bigger fish are more likely to accumulate the toxins that carry the disease, so smaller fish are likely to be safer to eat. “The important thing is to know what fish you’re eating and where it’s caught” and to know what fish in the area might carry it, he said. Richlen sent me a few \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fgahtong\u002Fstatus\u002F828477169730883584\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eposters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from around the world that warn people about problematic fish, such as giant sweetlips in Fiji or yellow jack in Guadeloupe, and Parsons suggested talking to local fishermen about which fish are safe as they will know best.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENearly eight months later, I still get recurrences. I no longer worry about my hands becoming permanently paralysed or that it might be fatal, as I did on the first day. Instead, I laugh about my freaky fish poisoning and marvel at how little we know, as eaters, about what we consume, particularly while travelling. Even armed with my newfound knowledge about ciguatera, I realise that still none of this would have helped me. I didn’t know what fish I was eating. I didn’t know where it came from. All I knew was that it was good, and I know now that I’d probably do it again. Of course, since getting ciguatera once makes you more susceptible to the toxin, I probably will get it again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-30T21:14:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How climate change poisons our food","headlineShort":"The mysterious illness with no cure","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"There’s no cure for a mysterious type of food poisoning known as ciguatera. But as our planet warms, it’s likely to become much more common.","summaryShort":"Up to 50,000 people report it each year","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-01-29T21:17:55.853045Z","entity":"article","guid":"9b073bd6-4515-45e4-a286-c7c2f92ae0af","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:33:05.989637Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish","_id":"616ff64a45ceed2c222c5260","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While gaining traction as a symbol of Mexico City, these curious amphibians offer hope for healing the human body, but face near extinction in the wild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbest-of-bbc-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrankie was missing half his face. A fungal infection had come over the little axolotl, a native amphibian of the waterways of Mexico City.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Frankie, along with other axolotls, have a special talent. Veterinarian and axolotl researcher Erika Servín Zamora, who was also Frankie’s caregiver, said she was astounded to see the animal’s remarkable regeneration abilities that she’d read about in her studies. Within two months, Frankie had grown a new, fully functional eye, and life was back to normal in his tank at the city’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdata.sedema.cdmx.gob.mx\u002Fzoo_chapultepec\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChapultepec Zoo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrankie might not have been so lucky in his native habitat, just about 30km south of the zoo. The axolotl, though gaining traction as a symbol of Mexico City, and specifically of the southern borough of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F412\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXochimilco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Unesco World Heritage site, is nearly extinct in the wild due to increases in invasive fish species and water pollution in the city’s troubled canals. Making things worse, Frankie is an albino axolotl, which means he’s light pink with frilly, pink gills coming off his head – he’d be easy prey for Xochimilco’s invasive tilapia in the dark, murky waters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150714-where-the-human-fish-lurks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere the human fish lurks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191007-mexico-citys-secret-underground-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexico City’s secret underground world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190826-mexicos-mysterious-uncharted-caves\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexico’s mysterious uncharted caves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnown locally as “water monsters”, axolotls have a love-them-or-leave-them appearance. For some, these 20cm-long, soft-skinned, water dwellers are considered adorable, with the appearance of a perpetual smile. For others, these four-toed amphibians are just plain odd.        \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite their somewhat polarising looks, they are of particular interest to scientists hoping that axolotls like Frankie just might teach us humans the regeneration trick someday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Scientists are looking to benefit from the regenerative properties of axolotls by applying them to people who are injured in accidents, wars or suffering illness – people who lose limbs,” Servín Zamora said. “Others are looking for ways that axolotl regeneration can benefit human organs, such as by healing the heart or the liver.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAxolotls are also helping Servín Zamora and other scientists understand the apparent resistance to cancer that all amphibians seem to have. “In 15 years, I have not seen any cases of malignant tumours in axolotls, which is interesting,” she said. “We suspect that their ability to regenerate cells and body parts helps them in that respect.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd that's not all. Axolotls have been used traditionally throughout Mexico as a remedy for conditions associated with things like pregnancy, frailty and respiratory illness. A group of nuns in Patzcuaro, Mexico, legally breeds one axolotl species, \u003Cem\u003Eambystoma dumerilii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and uses the animals as an ingredient in cough syrup, though traditionally they were consumed as part of a broth. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPerpetual teenagers – and representations of the divine\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrankie is an ambystoma mexicanum, one of the 17 species of axolotl in Mexico. Found primarily in the states of Mexico, Puebla and Michoacán, many are critically endangered. Some species transform themselves into earth-walking salamanders by losing their tadpole-like tails and gills from their heads. However, this too depends on the environment. Frankie, for instance, living in captivity and therefore void of predators, will stay an eternal teenager. Never transforming into salamanders, axolotls like him will keep the tail they developed as a larva and live completely underwater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Basically, they decide whether they will complete the metamorphosis","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Basically, they decide whether they will complete the metamorphosis, based on environmental stressors,” Servín Zamora said. “If they decide it would be better to live out of water, they will undergo the transformation into salamanders, but that can be a stressful undertaking in itself as they stop eating completely for that period. The current theory is that, for evolutionary reasons, the ambystoma mexicanum would remain in a juvenile state [somewhere between a tadpole and a salamander] because there was so much food in the water [such as \u003Cem\u003Echarales\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a small freshwater fish] and they had few predators, so there was little reason to emerge.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause of this tendency to change form, axolotls have a profound presence in Aztec (or Mexica) cosmogony. They were often recognised as a representation of Xolotl, god of the underworld and the malefic twin of the feathered serpent god Quetzacoatl, often represented as the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen various gods were asked to make a sacrifice in order to create the world, Xolotl fled into the water. For his cowardice and reluctance to help, he was damned to live forever in the water and to suffer from eternal youth. For the Aztecs, death was transcendence, and to not complete that cycle meant being banned from reaching a higher realm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA tourist attraction\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the axolotl’s endangered status, images of Frankie and his friends are plastered all over Mexico City, covering walls as street art and sold as plush toys in gift shops. An image of the ambystoma mexicanum axolotl will grace the 50-peso bill to be released in 2022. And Mexico City’s updated tour buses feature an image of an albino axolotl emblazoned on its double-decker sides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYears ago, if you wanted to find an axolotl, all you had to do was look for a canal. Mexico City was built on the bed of what was once a massive lake, which the Aztecs used to create canals – as well as \u003Cem\u003Echinampas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, floating islands made out of trees and mud that were used to grow food – for navigational and transportation purposes. Though the lake and much of the canal system have been drained over the years to make way for a growing population, more than 183km of canals remain in the Xochimilco borough, and 165 hectares of land and water are located in the protected area of the Xochimilco Ecological Park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut rather than axolotls, visitors today are likely to see numerous migratory bird species and revellers on boats in the canals. The area has become heavily touristed and is best known as a place to go for a ride in colourful wooden boats called \u003Cem\u003Etrajineras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where smaller boats come over full of mariachis, or to sell beer and refreshments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEnvironmental threats\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs trajineras are motorless boats, they are not thought to negatively impact the axolotls. However, the chinampas are not connected to the city’s sewage system, so waste often winds up in the canals. Other threats to the amphibians include the quick growth of non-native, ornamental aquatic plants, and pollution from industrial fertilisers, as well as invasive species such as carp and tilapia, which were introduced by the government in the 1970s to supply food to the formerly rural area. The latter idea was well-intentioned, Servín Zamora said, but not well thought out, as the carp and tilapia feast on young axolotls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The problems that Xochimilco faces are not just environmental, but social as well,” Servín Zamora said. “People do not have enough income from their chinampas or ecotourism, so they tend to build their homes there [on their chinampa land, which is an affordable option as they already own the property] and for that reason urbanization has grown so much in those areas. Unfortunately, all the drainage from those homes goes directly into the canals, and that has caused tremendous pollution.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2017, the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) did a study monitoring the canals. While the results are still under review, it was shown that the water pollution is very serious in Xochimilco’s rapidly growing urban zones. Servín Zamora said there is hope of recuperating spaces still devoted to agriculture and therefore less likely to be tainted by pollution caused by overpopulation. “If we work hard with education, research and working directly in the area, we can rescue it, even if it’s just one part.” Still, the study found just one axolotl living in the wild in Xochimilco.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESaving the axolotl\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, most axolotls live in captivity. Yanin Carbajal is the co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.casaxolotl.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa del Axolotl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum and aquarium dedicated to educating the public on axolotls, located in the town of Chignahuapan in Puebla. Her project started years ago with breeding tanks at her family’s ranch in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains. The museum space located in town opened last year, featuring 15 to 20 axolotls of four different species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECarbajal said she was motivated to care for axolotls because of their strong link to Mexico’s pre-Columbian history, their important implications for human health, and the goal to preserve the species and improve their habitats. However, she cautions potential pet owners that raising axolotls is no simple feat. While keeping them as pets around the world is legal, in Mexico it’s only legal to obtain them from a nursery accredited by the secretary of environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Ignorance is a big problem, with people taking them from the wild and keeping them as pets in some cases or selling them,” Carbajal said. “If people are able to breed them, well that is a positive. But if not, then that is not helping the species. As they live in still water lakes and lagoons, the temperatures tend not to fluctuate as quickly as they can in captivity [making captivity a serious undertaking].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMexico City has a few places where captive axolotls can be seen today, including Chapultepec Zoo, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdata.sedema.cdmx.gob.mx\u002Fzoo_coyotes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZoológico Los Coyotes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the headquarters of tour operators \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.axolotitlan.mx\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAxolotitlán\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faxochiatl3.wixsite.com\u002Fumbral-axochiatl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUmbral Axochiatl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, both in Xochimilco.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPamela Valencia is the founder of Axolotitlán, a Mexico City-based operator that aims to educate locals and travellers on Xochimilco’s delicate ecosystem and the need to support axolotls, through tours with a cooperative of local \u003Cem\u003Echinamperos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chinampa farmers) in the ecological park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The axolotl is a secret to save our city, our country and probably the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The axolotl is a theme in Mexico that has to do with politics, society, the use of resources, environmental and systemized education,” Valencia said on a warm afternoon at her axolotl refuge, where visitors can come to learn about the axolotls. “It’s a topic that touches on all the rubrics of society in one way or another. We believe that the axolotl is a secret to save our city, our country and probably the world. It’s an incredibly important animal that can inspire people to stop doing things [such as polluting] that we’ve been doing for a long time as a society, and to do better in many ways.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDionisio Eslava, president of Umbral Axochiatl, which works with Axolotitlán to organise tours in his native Xochimilco so that visitors can better understand the natural side of Xochimilco, said that closing the gap geographically, culturally and socioeconomically between central Mexico City folk and the farmers in the south is one way to help clean up the zone, and thus help the axolotls return to the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Ecosystems are a type of security, not only for food but also water, oxygen and as an ally for facing climate change,” he said. “The big cities should support our ecosystems by visiting us and accompanying us in this treasure that is a great inheritance of all of humanity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot only can this small and often overlooked animal guide us in protecting the planet, but it potentially holds the key to unlocking certain scientific mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrankie lived to be eight years old – though captive axolotls can live 12 years or more – dying of natural causes at Chapultepec Zoo in 2010. Servín Zamora holds a special place for him in her heart because he was one of the first axolotls she ever worked with and she learned quite a lot from him – hopefully, the rest of the world will, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}} \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-11-11T20:26:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Mexico City’s ‘walking fish’","headlineShort":"The animal resistant to cancer","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While gaining traction as a symbol of Mexico City, these curious amphibians offer hope for healing the human body, but face near extinction in the wild.","summaryShort":"“They’re the secret to save our city, our country and probably the world”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-11-10T20:28:46.583029Z","entity":"article","guid":"0d1f0b5a-ccf8-42ce-abec-fcb464e18e6e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:27:55.489503Z","project":"travel","slug":"20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","_id":"616ff67545ceed41c0577b98","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femma-elsworthy"],"bodyIntro":"Famous for its brilliant seven shades of blue, Lake Bacalar is home to an ancient population of stromatolites that are around 3.5 billion years old.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe beauty of Lake Bacalar, according to Claudio Del Valle, goes deeper than the Mexican lagoon's seven brilliant shades of blue, which range from bright turquoise to deep cobalt. Actually, the local tour guide says, up to 100m deeper – to the limestone bottom of the lake, which is home to the oldest life on the planet. Del Valle says that the most important thing when visiting the long, skinny lake near the Belize border is to leave no trace. He spent years taking groups on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.whatsupbacalar.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estand-up paddle boarding tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before dawn as the sun threw early light over the lagoon and sparkling thalassic hues matured out of the inky night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Thanks to the paddle boarding, I had the chance to explore most of the lagoon… it was so unique, so majestic, so beautiful,\" he said. \"The clarity of the water makes this unique colouration of blue to green; it was delightful just to appreciate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the \"Lake of Seven Colours\" is under grave threat, Del Valle says, which could not only permanently change the colour of the lake but also lead to the destruction of an ancient population of stromatolites, a living fossil that predates humans, dinosaurs and even plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle moved to Bacalar in 2017 following the 7.1-magnitude Puebla earthquake, which left him with post-traumatic stress. On the advice of a psychologist friend, he departed his home of San Cristóbal de las Casas, 700km south-west of Bacalar, in search of a more tranquil environment. He was blown away by what he found. \"It was paradise,\" he said, of seeing Bacalar's lagoon for the first time. \"You couldn't believe the sunrise and the sunset, every one was so unique. But now I can see what is happening… it breaks my heart, it is wrong.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09qqv0h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of stromatolites at Laguna Bacalar, Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Bacalar has been moving towards an ecological disaster for the past decade, according to Dr Luisa Falcón, a microbial ecologist at the National Autonomous University of Mexico in Merida. In November 2015, Mexico's federal environmental protection agency issued a pollution alert for the lake. The problem came to a head in June 2020, when Lake Bacalar's rich thalassic hues turned a dull brown. It still has not made a full recovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut if nothing is done, the damage could go far beyond the aesthetics of the brilliantly hued water, Falcón warns. Bacalar is home to the largest freshwater microbialite reef in the world – rock-like structures made by thousands of microbes that precipitate carbonate minerals. \"Bacalar's microbialites have an age range between decades to more than 9,000 years old,\" she said. But it's the microbialite's living fossil counterpart, the stromatolites, that date back to \"approximately 3.5 billion years old\", making Bacalar's population the oldest evidence of life on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stromatolites resemble cauliflower – big, pillowy beige structures that grow upwards from the lagoon's limestone bottom of the lake. They look like rocks, but they are actually living things. The sediment layers itself millimetre by millimetre, with the aid of photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria, until the structures turn into a rocky underwater growth that can be seen on the surface of shallow water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe animal resistant to cancer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow climate change poisons our food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cauliflower-like stromatolites only still exist in a few locations globally – and Bacalar's population reveal history frozen in time, such as the temperature or the geochemical composition of the water millions of years ago. That's because they actually preserve the physicochemical conditions of the water in their incredibly slow sedimentation process. Crucially, stromatolites also help recycle elements. The microbes that make up a stromatolite take carbon from the CO2 in the air and put it into the lake floor's carbonate to store it. Like trees, their above-water counterpart, stromatolites actively improve our environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the problem facing stromatolites is two-fold, Falcón said. The lake is fed by a 450km underground river that is part of the world's largest water cave and tunnel system along the Yucatan Peninsula. This is actually good for stromatolites – the carbonate rock of the tunnels is thought to make them grow larger than normal, pillowing out on the surface of the lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09qqtzv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stomatolites floating in Lake Bacalar, Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut karstic environments, where groundwater flows through fractures and cave systems interconnect water bodies, also leave the stromatolites more vulnerable to upstream change. And deforestation of the rainforest upstream from the lagoon has increased \"exponentially\" in the last decade due to unsustainable agricultural practices, says Falcón. That has led to a rise in sediments, pesticides and fertilisers making their way into the water during the rainy season. High levels of nitrogen and ammonium are being recorded in the lagoon, especially near the town. The makeup of the water is changing – and algae and molluscs are multiplying at a rapid rate. So far, no research has demonstrated that microbialite communities can recover from environmental damage in the short term.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe local tourism industry has played a role in Bacalar's degradation. \"Bacalar as a tourist destination has received increased attention but is without the necessary urban planning, including sufficient sewage treatment and sanitary facilities.\" A study Falcón co-authored found high amounts of Firmicutes, a bacteria found in the human intestine, in the lagoon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, De Valle says a roaring tourism industry on the lake, including boats, kayaks, jet skis, anchors, fin kicks and even people standing at the lagoon's edge, is seeing the surface of stromatolites broken. When their surface is punctured, they die, just like coral reefs. \"There are plenty of hostels, hotels, Airbnbs, many don't care about the stromatolites and the mangroves that allow the natural resources of the lagoon to regenerate,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a way, Del Valle says, as a former tour guide, he was part of the problem. Bacalar, just south of Quintana Roo's popular tourist spots Cancun, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, was attracting close to 100,000 tourists a season in recent years. And local operators have cashed in. \"We were making advertisements and publicity to make that place more famous and popular, knowing that it doesn't have the infrastructure, the plans, the project, to protect the lagoon,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09qqtyn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Drone photo of Bacalar Lagoon with brown and green-hued water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocal researcher and biologist Silvana Ibarra, member of the Citizen and Scientific Council for the Restoration and Preservation of the Bacalar Aquifer and Lagoon System, agrees. \"The growth of tourists in Bacalar is 600% in three years and the hosts are not prepared: they do not accept the carrying capacity of the ecosystem,\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut slowed tourist activity in the past 12 months has given the 42km-long expanse of lake a chance to recover. \"These problems started a decade ago and worsened two years ago, but the improvement during the pandemic was shown in that we again saw animals such as the river otter,\" Ibarra said. This slowed tourism activity has also seen the lagoon's colours stirring back to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith more sustainable tourism, Lake Bacalar can continue its recovery and restore its reputation as the \"Lake of Seven Colours\". And there are several easy ways for travellers to do this, Ibarra said. She advises never to touch, step or sit on the stromatolites in the lagoon. She says visitors should enter the lagoon barefoot, and never while wearing sunscreen or makeup, as both can bleach the stromatolites. More broadly, she said, \"stay in eco-friendly hotels, and very, very importantly: reduce your waste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With more sustainable tourism, Lake Bacalar can continue its recovery and restore its reputation as the \"Lake of Seven Colours\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Come knowing that it is a fragile natural sanctuary that must be treated with care,\" she said. \"It is important to protect the lagoon and especially to adapt to the territory, because otherwise, its beauty and natural services will be lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, before travel returns to pre-pandemic levels, Del Valle says it is up to the local tourism operators to save the crystalline lagoon – the largest in the Yucatan Peninsula. Del Valle has approached many of the operators surrounding the lagoon to help make their tourism offerings more sustainable. \"The locals, they own all the motorboats in the lagoon, they are in the hundreds. I have talked several times with many of them to persuade them,\" he said. \"I offered them, for free, to train them to do paddle tours, to do sailing tours, things that don't affect the lagoon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09qqttf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People kayaking down the the Bacalar rapids in Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"Hopefully when the time is right, there's going to be a change in society, and with that the most important thing, which is nature, will start to recover,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThinking back to his first impressions of the then-glorious Lake Bacalar, at a time when he was struggling with his own trauma, Del Valle pauses. \"It really started to make me well [again],\" he said. In a way, he continued, the now-threatened lagoon was a catalyst for his own healing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was the first time in my adult life that I was having this feeling of belonging to a ‘thing'.\" Hopefully, with a little help, he added, Mexico's lake of seven colours will heal too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-02T21:57:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Mexico's three-billion-year-old underwater lifeforms","headlineShort":"A lake with the oldest evidence of life","image":["p09qqv0v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"18.7671","longitude":"88.3069","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico","promoImage":["p09qqv0v"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Famous for its brilliant seven shades of blue, Lake Bacalar is home to an ancient population of stromatolites that are around 3.5 billion years old.","summaryShort":"It is home to the oldest life on the planet","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-01T22:02:15.710333Z","entity":"article","guid":"147c323c-b3b0-4e03-89bc-5eee1260e1a5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:12:00.04052Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmexico","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_mexico_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20200908-untold-america":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20200908-untold-america","_id":"616ff6ff45ceed6cc57d422c","name":"Untold America","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"The spirit of the US","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Funtold-america\u002F","summaryLong":"Untold America celebrates the many traditions and cultures within this vast country, and highlights the stunningly diverse cities and landscapes that have shaped America and the American spirit.","summaryShort":"Untold America","tag":null,"creationDateTime":"2020-09-08T15:59:02.737745Z","entity":"external","guid":"87e3d595-2fac-45b7-b181-2884c1890edc","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20200908-untold-america","modifiedDateTime":"2021-06-22T14:16:22.658754Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200908-untold-america","image":["p08qwhwf"],"promoImage":["p08qwhwf"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"Untold America","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3jXnK59","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen","_id":"616ff66145ceed2e9f177362","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As Ireland prepares for its 100th anniversary of independence, a little-known bandit – and rumours of his buried treasure – are remembered in a remote corner of the country.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy mother first told me the tale when I was three years old. Somewhere, in a forest near her hometown of Swinford, Ireland, lay the buried treasure of a folk hero who gave power to the powerless. More than 200 years ago, while Ireland’s County Mayo was patrolled by British soldiers, controlled by English gentry and riven by poverty, one group of Irish men launched an unconventional revolt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey didn't seek to end British rule, or even take back their families’ land. Instead, armed with blunderbusses and an intimate knowledge of Mayo’s mountains, bogs and rivers, these outlaws used surprise and force to reappropriate the wealth of Ireland's British landlords. Like England’s Robin Hood before them, they robbed the rich and gave to the poor. Irish legends soon developed about their ferocity, ingenuity and generosity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENone of these highwaymen was bolder than Mayo's Roger “Captain” Gallagher. As a young boy growing up in Australia, I cheered as my mother recounted the stories of him ambushing Ireland’s privileged British occupiers, winced when he was fired upon by soldiers, held my breath as he charged them on horseback and exhaled when he left them in his wake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Gallagher’s tale offers a little-known example of Irish dissent against the occupying British","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, as an adult, I’ve realised these stories revealed how my ancestors were subjugated by the British, and the way acts of rebellion gave hope to this downtrodden corner of western Ireland. As the Republic of Ireland prepares to celebrate the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-17480250\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E100th anniversary of the Irish Free State\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a century of independence from Britain in 2021, Gallagher’s tale offers a little-known example of Irish dissent against the occupying British.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith my 72-year-old mother by my side, I recently followed in Gallagher’s footsteps through Mayo. From Attymass to Barnalyra, Roosky to Lough Talt, we visited locations where Gallagher and his gang of bandits tormented affluent British landowners from the late 1700s until his death in 1818. It was a fascinating excuse to explore the verdant forests, pristine lakes and craggy hills of a county where I’d lived on and off for eight years. More importantly, it allowed me to bond with my mother and absorb her passion for Mayo’s wild landscape and rich history before I had to fly back to Australia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur pursuit of Gallagher’s ghost began in a place my mother and I knew well. Hemmed by mountains, the glassy lake of Lough Talt long is one of our most cherished locations in Mayo. It is a place where we walked and laughed with my late father, whose passing four years ago drew us even closer. Gallagher was also partial to this lake. As we sat on its shore, with the Ox Mountains peering over our shoulders, my mother explained how Gallagher and his men emerged from nearby trees, firearms cocked, and held up mail coaches laden with the valuables of local British gentry. Suddenly, the bandit was brought back to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My mother used Gallagher's tales to connect me with my Irish heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGallagher was a character so large that, as a child, I could see him clearly from 15,000km away in Perth. My mother used his tales to connect me with my Irish heritage and, when she felt marooned in her new home of Australia, to transport herself back to the wilderness of Mayo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a lead character of so many historical Mayo legends, there’s surprisingly little public recognition of Gallagher today. There are no statues of him anywhere in Ireland. Printed records of his life are limited. I contacted almost every university history department in Ireland and found that no-one knows much about the man’s life. One of the very few experts who does is Stephen Dunford, a historian and writer from Killala, a tiny Mayo village about 15km north-west of Gallagher’s old stomping grounds. Dunford wrote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abebooks.com\u002FIrish-Highwaymen-Dunford-Stephen-Merlin-Publishing\u002F17120839227\u002Fbd\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Irish Highwaymen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the definitive book on these bandits, so named because the robbers typically assailed their victims as they travelled the roads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo understand Gallagher and his colleagues, Dunford told me, you must first know the environment and era that birthed them. By the time Gallagher first raised a weapon, Ireland had been occupied by the British for 600 years. Recollections were fresh of the atrocities of the mid-1600s, when English general Oliver Cromwell invaded Ireland, quelled an Irish rebellion and his troops likely slaughtered thousands of civilians – including women and children – in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200622-the-ss-yongala-how-a-mysterious-wreck-became-a-destination\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA shipwreck undiscovered for 47 years\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190428-is-this-the-worlds-most-dangerous-sea-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the world's most dangerous sea route?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180214-a-father-and-son-pilgrimage-on-the-tour-du-mont-blanc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA father-and-son pilgrimage on the Tour du Mont Blanc\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnder Cromwell’s direction, many Irish landowners were dispossessed. Their farms were given to well-off Brits, who acted as landlords, charging the Irish to live on the same land that had been in their families for centuries. Income generated from these properties, through rent and agriculture, went into British pockets."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EStart your journey at one of County Mayo’s most beautiful lakes, Lough Talt, before driving south to Aclare. Then head west into the Ox Mountains to Roosky, where Gallagher often hid. On the other side of this range, you’ll reach Attymass, where Gallagher met his demise. Then head south to his birthplace of Ballycong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom here, it’s a 20-minute drive south-west to Lough Conn and Glass Island, and then a 30-minute drive south-east, through the historic towns of Foxford and Swinford, to the Barnalyra Forest, where you can hunt for Gallagher’s hidden treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Follow in the bandit’s footsteps on a trip through County Mayo","calloutTitle":"Captain Gallagher’s trail","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"According to Dunford, Mayo became one of the poorest corners of Europe and stayed that way for centuries thereafter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Irish people knew why they were destitute, they knew exactly who to blame,” Dunford said. “The British were villains. People in Mayo, who had nothing [and] couldn’t even feed themselves properly anymore, were looking at their old homes and old land and then seeing Brits living in them. Then along came Gallagher and his boys, plundering the rich Brits and everyone loved it. Ireland desperately needed some heroes at that time, they needed something to believe in, and the Highwaymen gave them that.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERobbing powerful Brits was, of course, a dangerous occupation. It earned the attention and wrath of police, British soldiers and armed mercenaries hired to protect these landlords. While being hunted, Gallagher needed somewhere to hide, to regroup, to plan his next heist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That’s a great spot to avoid detection, isn’t it,” my mother said to me, pointing at Glass Island in Lough Conn, which served as one of Gallagher’s safe havens. These days, the narrow, 13km-long lake is a popular swimming destination on the odd occasion it exceeds 20C in Mayo. A smile broke across my mother’s face as she recalled me wincing from the cold when I bathed here as a boy on holiday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Gallagher relied on refuges like Glass Island, he wasn’t intimidated by his pursuers, Dunford said. Gallagher had the skills, motivation and courage to survive his perilous trade for two decades. He and his cohorts had extensive military training and, crucially, the support of locals who related to Gallagher’s impoverished upbringings in Ballycong, a tiny farming community in the shadows of the Ox Mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Dunford, what really earned the respect and loyalty of locals was the generosity of Gallagher’s gang. After robbing mail coaches, they spread their spoils through the community. They also tried to protect Irish peasants bullied by British landlords.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"He was convinced to comply by the gun pressed to his temple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Gallagher made a British landlord eat his eviction notices right here,” my mother said, as we drove into Killasser, the tiny town where this bandit stood up for dozens of Mayo tenement farmers who were being unfairly tossed out of their homes. Ringed by gently sloping green pastures and boasting little more than a church and a pub, Killasser is indicative of dozens of quaint, idyllic villages sprinkled across County Mayo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Killasser itself may not be remarkable, according to Dunford, what Gallagher did here was extraordinary. When he and his men raided the plush home of this ruthless landlord, they discovered a stack of eviction notices, gathered them up, and demanded the Brit consume them. He was convinced to comply by the gun pressed to his temple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Highwaymen had dual motivations, Dunford said. First and foremost, they were driven by a desire to help the county’s impoverished residents. But they also knew this charity earned the allegiance of Mayo locals, who would warn them of pursuing authorities and offer them safe haven. Eventually, though, Gallagher’s fortune ran dry in a perpetually rain-soaked land. In 1818, he was hiding in a cabin in Attymass, a picturesque village in the foothills of the Ox Mountains, when he was spotted by a local man with British loyalties who tipped off the soldiers hunting him. Soon, Gallagher was surrounded by 200 British fighters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The lure of this concealed fortune continues to propel the legend of Gallagher","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs he faced execution, Dunford said that Gallagher made one final play. He told the soldiers of a haul of valuables he’d buried in the nearby Barnalyra forest and promised to reveal its location in exchange for freedom. It didn’t work. As soon as Gallagher had been killed, soldiers descended upon Barnalyra, combing the land for days to no avail. Many a treasure hunter has since entered those woods with lofty hopes and exited with vacant hands. The lure of this concealed fortune continues to propel the legend of Gallagher.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, more than a cartoonish hero or a colourful folk character, Gallagher is a symbol of Irish defiance. That’s what my mother reminded me as we drove beyond Attymass, through the mountain gap at Roosky, flanked by lakes, ridges and meadows so glorious it’s no wonder Mayo people didn’t want them occupied. “This is your land, too – your past,” she said to me, her tone and expression so earnest that I received it as a plea to keep Mayo with me when she’s gone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI grasped her hand and allayed her fears. Mayo might not be my full-time home, but its imprint on me is permanent. So, too, is Gallagher’s legacy. Forever this county’s sharp winds will carry the tale of an outlaw who challenged the British, galvanised Mayo and enthralled an Australian boy sitting on his Irish mother’s knee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ftravel-journeys\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series exploring travellers’ inner journeys of transformation and growth as they experience the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-29T01:15:17.763Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"'Captain' Gallagher: The legend of Ireland’s ‘Highwaymen’","headlineShort":"The legend of Ireland’s ‘Highwaymen’","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As Ireland prepares for its 100th anniversary of independence, a little-known bandit – and rumours of his buried treasure – are remembered in a remote corner of the country.","summaryShort":"“Ireland’s Robin Hood” stole from the rich and gave power to the powerless","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-10-29T01:16:35.415266Z","entity":"article","guid":"dfed27ff-d36a-49a2-a2f7-2b60dcef5230","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:56:52.275262Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times","_id":"616ff6a245ceed569572c8a4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As searches for quilting patterns surge and Covid quilt-alongs explode online, newcomers to the hobby are channelling a centuries-old Irish tradition: quilting for human connection.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sarah Harris moved from her home of 20 years in Ireland back to her native Colorado, she brought the quilting business she’d started in County Wicklow with her, making commissions of \"memory quilts\", patchwork designs composed of baby blankets, graduation gowns or old clothes from deceased loved ones. Before she’d turned it into a business, quilting was something she did for herself – a way of connecting with her mother and grandmother, both quilters in the US, in spirit and in practice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"My mom and I would make two of the same quilt,\" Harris said. \"We would start it together [in Colorado] when I would visit, and then continue to make them separately when I went back to Ireland, working on them at the same time, so we would each have one – the same, but separate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EQuilting with her mother over FaceTime or quilting alone and knowing that her mother was working on the very same project, Harris was participating in a centuries-long tradition, using quilts to connect with family across time and distance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the past year of pandemic lockdowns, Harris has been in increasingly robust company as she and others have turned to the internet – and Instagram, in particular – to take up the craft as their \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.huffingtonpost.ca\u002Fentry\u002Fquilting-pandemic-hobby-newfoundland_ca_600ec996c5b6fe97669e3c31\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epandemic hobby\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" of choice. Many people have found that quilting offers a meditative departure from anxiety or grief, an outlet for pent-up creative energy or \"an act of cultural reclamation and narrative-building\", as one quilter in Toronto, inspired by her great-grandmother’s patchwork practice, put it in a recent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chatelaine.com\u002Fliving\u002Freal-life-stories\u002Fmy-pandemic-quilt\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eessay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about how the pastime is getting her through the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Valerie Wilson, curator of textiles at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nmni.com\u002Fcollections\u002Fhistory\u002Ftextiles-and-costume?q=&count=75\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museums Northern Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Irish and American quilting culture is deeply interwoven. Together, they reveal a rich cultural narrative about scarcity, hardship, resourcefulness, perseverance and – especially pertinent to the hobby’s pandemic rise – human connection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170906-the-last-surviving-sea-silk-seamstress\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last surviving sea silk seamstress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe legend of Ireland's 'Highwaymen'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200524-victory-gardens-a-war-time-hobby-thats-back-in-fashion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA war-time hobby that's back in fashion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 19th Century, Wilson explains, Irish immigrants to the US took their customs with them, bringing quilts to wrap up and carry their belongings, to use for warmth and comfort on their journey and to remind them of home. Putting names and personal stories to this history, Roselind Shaw, a quilt ethnographer in Belfast, has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antiquequiltdating.com\u002FEarly_Irish_Patchwork_Quilts_and_Traditions.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edocumented accounts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Northern Irish families of quilts being washed and laid to dry on beach rocks when immigrants’ boats reached American shores, or of sending quilts from Derry as wedding presents to young immigrants who were making their way in the New World.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn turn, Irish settlers in the US would send patterns, fabrics and finished quilts to their families at home – or use them to wrap gifts perhaps more precious than the quilts themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Wilson, who oversees the historical collection of quilts at NMNI’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nmni.com\u002Four-museums\u002FUlster-Folk-Museum\u002FUlster-Folk-Museum-Were-Ready-For-You\u002FUlster-Folk-Museum-Were-Ready-For-You.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003EUlster Folk Museum\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just outside of Belfast, new styles began to emerge in Irish patchwork in the 1870s that showed this American influence – among them, Log Cabin, Kaleidoscope and Irish Chain patterns, the last of which \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.womenfolk.com\u002Fquilt_pattern_history\u002Firishchain.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emay or may not\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have originated in Ireland. In this exchange, Irish and Irish American families created a transatlantic correspondence of culture, design and tradition that carried on for generations, blurring the lines between Irish and American patterns and styles, and reinforcing the importance of the quilt in both cultures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Quilting was a 19th-Century take on a bachelorette and hen party","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs key as the quilt was in tying together families in Ireland and the US, Wilson added, it united local communities too. As immigration to the US increased and the quilt exchange continued, quilts became much more than just a utility for warmth or decorative items to dress up a room: with \"quilting parties\", the very act of quilting took a central role in the social life of rural Irish communities – as important a reason to gather as a wake, but on much happier terms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The social aspect of quilting has been very important here in Ireland in the past and still is,\" Wilson said. For example, Ireland’s 19th-Century take on the bachelorette or hen party was entirely quilt-centric: quilting frames were loaned between households; women gathered to make a quilt together for the bride; the host would put on food and drink as a thank you; and once the quilt was completed, it became the centrepiece of a number of customs. For example, Wilson said attendees would gather around holding onto a quilt’s edges, and the household cat – every rural house had a cat, she noted – would be thrown into the middle of the quilt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The cat would obviously jump up and run out the door,\" she said, \"and the nearest unmarried girl to the cat would be the next person to be married.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the past 100 years, tossing cats onto quilts of brides-to-be has gradually given way to other types of gathering. Before the pandemic, the communal culture around quilting was on the rise, both in the US and in Ireland, where local guilds for patchwork and quilting grow and where quilting exhibitions are among folk museums’ best-attended events. Especially in Northern Ireland, the practice thrives. For a look to the past, the NMNI are home to the country’s largest quilt and patchwork collection. For a look at the present, independent quilt shops across the country offer classes with local character (and, in some cases, local threads, from Bangor to Ballymena to the annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quiltfayre.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuilt Fayre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Belfast."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EStock up on your \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnymag.com\u002Fstrategist\u002Farticle\u002Fthings-you-need-to-quilt.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estarter supplies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at your local fabric or craft shop and head to YouTube for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fresults?search_query=sewing+machine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esewing machine tips\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, quilting terminology – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=-TyihOEvJ8E\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebasting, quilting, binding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and techniques. Next, find your \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthemqg\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evirtual community\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or dive right in with a social media event like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCMSIeT4n8vm\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E#IGQuiltFest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, offering daily prompts through March 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ready to quilt?","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"And now during the pandemic, a growing number of quilters around the world – both expert and inexperienced alike – are finding community in virtual circles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fexplore\u002Ftags\u002Fquiltalong\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Equilt-alongs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" or \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fexplore\u002Ftags\u002Fsewalong\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Esew-alongs\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" on Instagram, a group of quilters commits to making the same project together over a designated period of time, using an event-specific hashtag to share their progress as they go.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Instagram has been an amazing community,\" said Sarah Steiner, a self-described \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpandemicquilter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epandemic quilter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" in Northern Indiana who picked up the hobby for the first time last July and says it has helped her find calm, focus and relief. \"I had no idea that so \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblog.feedspot.com\u002Fquilting_instagram_influencers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emany creative people have accounts and post their quilts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. My mom, aunt and I did a sew-along together and it gave us something to talk about other than Covid.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis digital take on the quilting bee is also what drew Amari Thomsen in San Francisco to the craft. \"It’s like a book club, but instead you have a finished quilt at the end,\" Thomsen said of quilt-alongs. \"I thought this community-building activity was so clever, so I joined one and instantly became hooked.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThomsen’s connections in the quilt world grew quickly. \"The online quilting community has no demographic or geographic boundaries, and you can learn something new from every single quilter out there,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pinterest recently reported a 100% year-over-year increase in searches for 'Irish quilt patterns'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of these virtual quilt-alongs are intimate – a group of friends gathering virtually instead of in person – while others offer a glimpse of the large scale of participants. The month-long \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCLwjjxNj7Q9\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram Quilt Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (held each March in celebration of National Quilting Month) had 10 times the number of posts by the close of March 2020 as it did in March 2019, and in the first 10 days of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCLotKqvLSl3\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe 2021 edition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it had nearly as many posts – more than 10,000 – as were shared in all of March 2020’s #IGquiltfest combined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, Pinterest recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbusiness.pinterest.com\u002Fcontent\u002Fpinterest-predicts\u002Fworld-play\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a 100% year-over-year increase in searches for \"Irish quilt patterns\", like the Celtic Twist and the Connemara Star – many of which are more popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quiltingdaily.com\u002Fquilt\u002Fpattern-celtic-twist\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewith Americans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E crafting to connect with Irish culture than with the Irish themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile quilting in a strictly virtual world brings new opportunities for human connection, the age-old tug towards engaging face-to-face beckons even the newcomers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Buying supplies online and learning new techniques via virtual video tutorials is all I really know,\" Thomsen said, as she put the last touches on her 10th project in seven months – a half-square-triangle-pattern quilt she created from upcycled chambray shirts she excavated from her wardrobe during quarantine spring cleaning – and posted her progress to her Instagram account, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Finstagram.com\u002Fnextgenquilting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enextgenquilting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I can’t wait for the day when I can set foot in a local fabric shop or join a local quilt guild and interact with my peers in person.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome come for the community and stay for the stress relief, others vice versa – but for most quilters, those benefits are closely intertwined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Fifty percent of the reason for quilting get-togethers is having a cup of tea and a piece of cake and chatting and solving the problems of the world,\" said Stephanie Green, who left her career in nursing a little more than a decade ago to open the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgreenacresquilts.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen Acres Quilts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shop, which operates out of her home County Donegal, Ireland. \"It's probably just 20 minutes or half an hour that we break over the course of three to four hours of sewing, but it’s just vital.\" At Green's shop, classes have recently resumed with masks and social distancing measures in place, and tutorials have moved to local television broadcasts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in Colorado, Harris still misses her local patchwork society in Ireland as well as her local quilting shop, owned by a mother and her two daughters a couple towns away from her old home in County Wicklow. But she quilts every day, especially this year, turning to hashtags and comments for a virtual quilting community to stand in, for now, for the real-life one she once had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I’ve incorporated a lot more Irish design into my quilts, which I never would have done in Ireland – they would’ve laughed at me, [saying] 'That's so American!',\" she said. \"Funny, when I was in Ireland, I didn’t want to be associated with America at all. But now, I do a lot of Irish writing on my quilts. I think I’m homesick. So, I see things a little differently – and I reflect that in my quilts.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-17T19:42:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Quilting: An Irish tradition fit for pandemic times","headlineShort":"The hobby that's perfect for quarantine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As searches for quilting patterns surge and Covid quilt-alongs explode online, newcomers to the hobby are channelling a centuries-old Irish tradition: quilting for human connection.","summaryShort":"Many people are finding it to be a calming antidote in this anxious year","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-03-16T19:50:13.90681Z","entity":"article","guid":"f49bb5cc-473b-4200-b46d-4a59295d3fc8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:05:12.529097Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend","_id":"616ff65845ceed363e45c945","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Farmers in the Alps have sworn by “heubad” – or hay bathing – for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the beginning was the grass. Stephan Öfner, 44, has been sleeping in it, on and off, for more than four decades. At times, after a stressful week, the third-generation hotelier knows it’s time for another close encounter with the Alpine meadow he’s known since he was a boy. For this is where the magic happens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is where the magic happens","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe mountain grass, not too coarse and a mix of cuts, stems and blossoming wildflowers, is freshly mown at the beginning of summer in a secret location up a long and winding road in a unfertilised valley above the Tyrolean town of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.seefeld.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeefeld\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There are similar harvests throughout Austria and further south across the border in Italy’s South Tyrol, but this particular one is loaded with a peculiar air of joy and nostalgia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“My grandparents were farmers and they would sleep in the grass to ease their aches and pain,” said Öfner, wistfully. “So it became part of life as a little kid. They knew about the wellness benefits of the grass and passed what they learnt onto me. It was perfectly normal for me. And, in fact, it still is. It’s a way of life here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHay bathing – or \u003Cem\u003Eheubad\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, as German-speakers call it – is an idea that’s wild enough to fire the imagination of any child. Literally, it is bathing in hay, and I for one remember taking great pleasure in jumping on haystacks and ducking into barns brimming with sweet-smelling grass on hot summer days. Hay barns, where I grew up in rural Scotland, were prime territories for mischief-making.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustria's village of 10,000 daytrippers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200728-croatias-pristine-isle-of-wellness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECroatia's pristine isle of wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201008-is-cow-hugging-the-worlds-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy the Dutch are hugging cows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo when I read about a potential boom for heubad in the Alps, my interest was piqued. The mountain grass – cut during the blossoming period when it’s at its finest, then transported down the mountainside to be preserved in historical wooden barns – was cited by local spa operators and hotels as containing essential oils and 50 types of medicinal herbs, including lavender, lady’s mantle, thyme, gentian and arnica, all frequently used in medicine and homeopathy. And like Japan’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180823-shinrin-yoku-how-japan-is-fighting-stress-with-nature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshinrin-yoku\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or forest bathing, heubad was both a little-known therapy and preventative healthcare.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore than that: locals hoteliers, health practitioners and therapists claim it improves circulation, boosts all-round wellbeing, stimulates the metabolism and revitalises, detoxifies and purifies. It sounded like a miracle cure, underpinned by the sort of rhetoric written in a holy book. Certainly, the idea that our bodies – so complicated, so intelligent – are able to feel and appreciate the potency of such a simple thing is a powerful one. But did it work? I was keen to find out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the past decade, Seefeld has repositioned itself to become an unlikely wellness destination. In advocating a more considered approach to travel beyond the traditional Alpine lineup of skiing, biking and hiking, the town has welcomed a swelling number of spa hotels. In keeping with the pastoral vibe, all are half-timbered, the windows dressed with flower boxes garlanded with pink and white geraniums and petunias. And, naturally, many now offer specialised heubad treatments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETwenty minutes is how long it takes to try hay bathing for yourself. During such time, at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schoenruh-seefeld.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWellnesshotel Schönruh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for instance, guests strip bare and are then wrapped in layer after layer of pre-boiled mountain grass. A meditative experience is what’s promised, but the procedure – designed to open your pores, make you profusely sweat and stimulate your metabolism – has echoes of something else entirely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor me, there was plenty to absorb. The woody, fragrant perfume of the hay. The slosh of the water bed cushioned beneath me. The growing itch of the dried grass on my skin. The alien feeling of being tightly swaddled, like an Egyptian mummy. It made me wince and recoil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the casual observer, the concept might seem like madness. But Öfner, whose \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotel-diana.at\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Diana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also has a dedicated \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotel-diana.at\u002Fen\u002Fspa-baths\u002Fbaths\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eheubad spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is insistent the therapy has medical value. With the focus very much on wellness, he explained, hay bathing works most powerfully on those suffering from medical problems. Sciatica, rheumatism, arthrosis, sleep and digestive disorders, mental and physical exhaustion; the list of what locals say it alleviates goes on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Last winter, our hay baths and hay beds were booked all day, every day,” Öfner said, matter-of-factly. “It takes more than one hay bath to feel any long-lasting effect though – ideally, you need at least a week of treatments. So you’ll definitely need a few more.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"According to local folklore, hay bathing began here as a mistake 300 years ago","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESitting at the intersection where tradition and modern holistic medicine meets, hay bathing is now defined in medical publications as \"phytothermotherapy\", though clinical recognition and endorsement of the treatment’s benefits remain to be firmly established.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EItalian interest in hay bathing comes from the fact that much of heubad’s mythology was born in the country’s autonomous, German-speaking province of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.suedtirol.info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Tyrol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. According to local folklore, hay bathing began here as a mistake 300 years ago when local farmers slept overnight in Seiser Alm, the largest high-altitude Alpine meadow in Europe. Soon after sunrise, waking in a pasture far from any road and in the shadow of the razor-sharp Dolomites, every ache and pain had vanished. To them, the grass felt like an embrace – and the concept of hay bathing was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The idea was to turn it into a business and help local invalids,” said Elisabeth Kompatscher, co-owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotelheubad.com\u002Fen\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Heubad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an age-old property entirely built around the concept of the tradition. Located in the hilltop town of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.voels-am-schlern.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVöls am Schlern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the hotel is an unsung landmark, yet a beacon and sanctuary for those seeking alternative therapy. “Around 1900, the farmers here harnessed the idea – at first, digging holes in the ground, putting patients in and covering them with dry hay,” said Kompatscher.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce a working farm, the hotel’s story started in 1909 when Kompatscher’s great-great-grandfather-in-law, an early custodian of the tradition, began offering heubad treatments in collaboration with local doctors. “He was the first to get a licence to do this treatment,” she added. “He legitimised hay bathing in the Dolomites.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMore than a century later, Hotel Heubad now completes 16 treatments a day: the equivalent of almost 5,500 appointments a year. A standard weekly treatment of six baths is recommended, and the hotel has its stalwart clientele. Since dedicated heubad spas are a rarity, those seeking treatments loyally return year after year. And it’s fair to say that business is booming in the Covid era: the hotel has seen reservations skyrocket, and the spa is almost fully booked well into next spring. The theory in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.voels-am-schlern.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVöls am Schlern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E? Heubad is the perfect remedy for post-lockdown mental exhaustion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Over the past decade, Seefeld has repositioned itself to become an unlikely wellness destination","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven so, Kompatscher has her own perspective. “It’s still hard to beat the wider cultural stigma that people have,” she said. “Heubad isn’t a new trend. It’s a tried-and-tested alternative therapy and is so much more than rolling in grass. We see the results every year, otherwise our guests wouldn’t keep coming back.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is a strong sense, too, of a sustainable argument at the core of the practice. Heubad works without using much energy and is self-perpetuating: afterwards, the hay is reused as fertiliser to complete a natural cycle. “Everything is done in balance with nature,” said Kompatscher. “Long after the grass is first used, it will be harvested again and again for the next generation. Few other therapies can claim that.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA traveller visiting the area for the first time and keen to get a sense of the tradition could do worse than visit Seiser Alm. Up there, in that thin Alpine air, it seems as though everything is preserved in the grass: the history; the labour; the stories; the family secrets. It might be hard to imagine, but for committed believers, every blade is a glorious symbol of rebirth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel’s \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-12-09T20:54:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The birthplace of Alpine hay bathing","headlineShort":"An age-old Alpine detox tradition","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Farmers in the Alps have sworn by “heubad” – or hay bathing – for centuries.","summaryShort":"Farmers in the Alps have sworn by “heubad” for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-12-08T20:57:41.479588Z","entity":"article","guid":"fe1f0904-074f-4c75-9a22-8194d90ce2de","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:00:52.511741Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","_id":"616ff65645ceed3641603192","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell"],"bodyIntro":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaked and sweaty, they laid inside grass-covered stone igloo-like structures in the remote fields of Ireland. Some were ill, others may have been having hallucinations, hatching plans to distil illegal alcohol or imagining they were the Vikings who once raided this country. By the time these addled folk emerged from the structures back into the fresh air of 19th-Century Ireland, they had been through a jarring mental and physical journey. One that still holds many mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some people reckoned the cure was worse than the disease,\" archaeologist Aidan Harte told me of this sweltering experience, as he stood atop a 150-year-old Irish sweathouse in Killadiskert, an isolated corner of County Leitrim. \"Part of the reason there's crazy theories about hallucinations and making alcohol is because we just don't fully know the truth about sweathouses and all their uses. They're a bit of a riddle that we're now trying to work out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xxynw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte is leading the new \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimcoco.ie\u002Feng\u002FCommunity-Culture\u002FHeritage\u002FArchaelogical-Heritage\u002FSweat-House-Project\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeitrim Sweathouse Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with Leitrim County Council Heritage Officer Sarah Malone. Malone said their aim was to identify and demystify these timeworn structures, which are scattered across Ireland and were used as a sort of extreme stone sauna from the early 1600s to the early 1900s. She said they had so far recorded more than 100 sweathouses in Leitrim alone – more than anywhere else in Ireland, and a staggering concentration given that this tiny Greater London-sized county is home to fewer than 35,000 people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor generations, most of these mysterious beehive-shaped structures have sat dormant and forgotten in Leitrim, a whisper-quiet, picturesque county in Ireland's north-west characterised by sprawling farms, petite towns and the kind of intensely green, hilly landscape that's inspired countless Irish poems. According to Harte, that's because many of the sweathouses are on properties owned by farmers who know little about them, other than them being impediments to agriculture. This is just the way it is in Ireland. Inhabited for more than 10,000 years, the nation is laden with so many archaeological sites that they can't all be pinpointed, probed and preserved. Now, the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is seeking volunteers to collate information and oral histories on this little-known aspect of Ireland's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sweathouses represent a little-known aspect of Ireland's history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, Leitrim's stone mounds are still sturdy. Nothing shifted as I scaled the 2.2m-tall Killadiskert structure to earn striking views of the undulating farmland that surrounds it. \"It shouldn't cave in,\" Harte said, cheekily. \"Seriously though, these things were made to last.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce I stepped back onto the soggy earth, Harte ran his hand across the sweathouse's uneven surface as he explained its construction. As with the one in Killadiskert, most Irish sweathouses were built into hillsides or banks to bolster their foundation, and set in remote locations near a water source. Chunks of uncut rock, each a different shape and size, were carefully piled and then bonded with clay and sod to create a domed structure with a single low entrance, similar in appearance to an igloo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xxysv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurf or wood was lit inside the sweathouse, before its entrance and roof vent were blocked, Harte said. After a few hours, smoke would be released, the embers swept out and a naked person would crawl into the stifling space and sweat for as long as they could bear. Eventually, they would emerge to cleanse and cool themselves in the nearby stream. Sometimes their condition improved, Harte said. The sweathouse had unfurled its earthen magic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile sweating certainly has proven medical benefits – including helping to improve blood circulation and filter toxins out of the body – according to Dr Ronan Foley, a leading expert on Irish sweathouses from Ireland's Maynooth University, these naked sauna sessions were often nothing more than a placebo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Germans love getting naked in public\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200728-croatias-pristine-isle-of-wellness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECroatia's pristine isle of wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191015-japans-most-remote-onsen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's most remote onsen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It would be very reasonable to assume the sweathouse cure did not work all the time or for all people, even for the conditions it was recommended for, so it was never a panacea in that sense,\" Foley said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, in Ireland's isolated landscape, where modern medical facilities were few and far between, sweathouses remained popular for roughly 300 years. Foley said they were commonly used to treat rheumatism, arthritis, fevers and respiratory conditions, especially in rural areas like Leitrim, which is home to more than one-third of Ireland's identified sweathouses. By comparison, very few are located near the cities of Dublin, Cork and Limerick, which had far more sophisticated health services than Leitrim until recent decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xxz37"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot much has been documented about the historical use of sweathouses. But many Leitrim families have ancestral roots that stretch back centuries, and thanks to Ireland's strong tradition of oral history, many sweathouse myths survive. Harte said some Leitrim residents he'd interviewed believe sweathouses weren't just used to treat illnesses. According to some tales he'd heard, sweathouses were makeshift distilleries for circumventing Ireland's long ban on distilling \"\u003Cem\u003Epoitin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" moonshine. In another popular story, they once hosted drug-fuelled hallucination sessions aimed at connecting with the Celtic gods. Harte doesn't give much credence to these narratives, and has found no evidence to support them. But with so little known about sweathouses, he also said he also can't rule them out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin. According to Foley, there are four prevailing theories. One claims these structures can be traced to Scandinavia and the Vikings. Saunas have been used in northern Europe for more than 2,000 years, and Vikings had a major impact on Irish culture while occupying parts of the country between the 9th and 12th Centuries. Another theory posits they may have been imported from the US by returning Irish immigrants who'd studied Native American sweat lodges. Just as intriguing is the theory sweathouses were re-purposed \u003Cem\u003Efulacht fiadh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a type of ancient, outdoor Irish oven. Finally, some old antiquarian journals suggested the Irish creators of the sweathouse may have been inspired by seeing hammams while travelling in the Middle East, where the Islamic bathhouses have been used for more than a millennium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"An even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, none of these theories convince Foley. Instead, he believes Ireland's sweathouses emerged organically. \"I feel they were a sort of local variant of a global cultural production of sweating-cure places,\" he said. \"The healing value of sweating was well known. Building small buildings that induced sweating from local materials would have been sort of worked out by Irish rural dwellers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Ireland's ancient sweathouses are valuable artefacts of the country's rural history. Harte's project could even help these long-neglected structures become offbeat tourist attractions, according to Sarah McCarthy, a regional development officer for Fáilte Ireland, the country's national tourism body. \"We know that culture and heritage form a significant element of Ireland's appeal to overseas visitors,\" McCarthy said. \"The Leitrim sweathouses and the associated research project reveal a hidden part of our history and heritage, and add to the riches for the visitor to uncover.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xxzgr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte shares this hope. But as he bent down to peek into the tight opening of the Killadiskert sweathouse, he conceded most of these structures aren't yet ready to accommodate tourists. While tourists are able to gain direct access to the nearby sweathouses at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimireland.com\u002Flistings\u002Fit-is-located-just-before-the-village-of-ballinaglera-close-to-dowra-village-and-about-10-kilometres-from-drumshanbo-and-is-on-the-route-of-the-leitrim-way-walking-trail-st-hughes-sweathouse\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Hughes well\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fleitrimtourism.com\u002Fheritage\u002Fparkes-castle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParke's Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Killadiskert sweathouse and many others are on private land. Even as an archaeologist, Harte hadn't always found it easy getting permission from landowners to visit other sweathouses. A key aim of the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is to gain greater public recognition and heritage protection for these structures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne day, Ireland's sweaty, naked saunas may be renowned, preserved and pinned to a tourist trail. For now, however, they remain enigmatic stone humps hidden in the emerald landscape, waiting for someone to unravel their secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-11T10:57:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The unearthing of Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","headlineShort":"Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","image":["p09xxyf9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.1247","longitude":"8.0020","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09xxyf9"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210316-quilting-an-irish-tradition-fit-for-pandemic-times","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","summaryShort":"They're scattered across the country and testify to Ireland's steamy past","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology","tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-10T22:24:29.371729Z","entity":"article","guid":"7846a894-361d-4146-827d-983a934762bb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-10T22:24:29.371729Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands","_id":"616ff65145ceed24c3157100","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While no one is sure exactly why these ingenious islets were were constructed, they provide a unique window on human life all the way back to Neolithic times in Britain.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was simple curiosity that prompted retired Royal Navy diver Chris Murray a decade ago to plunge into the icy waters around a mysterious islet in a small loch on his home island of Lewis in the Scottish Hebrides. But when the extraordinarily well-preserved pottery he found in the islet's silty surround was radiocarbon dated to 3600 BC, it pushed our awareness of civilisation on the British Isles back to a time before both Stonehenge and the first pyramids in Egypt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe piece of land poking out of the Hebridean loch is an example of a remarkable form of a man-made island known as a crannog, which were created in multitudes via an inspiring blend of ingenuity and effort. Nearly 600 of these artificial islands have so far been recorded across mainland Scotland and its islands, built big enough to support large communal roundhouses or clusters of smaller dwellings, and linked by slender causeways or piers to the shorelines of myriad lochs in often stunning locations of wild beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEarly academic interest in ancient water dwellings was sparked around 1850 by the discovery of submerged Alpine structures that appeared when Swiss lakes were being drained for agricultural and water supply purposes. Unlike crannogs, however, these are now believed to have sat on what had been the lake shoreline in distant history, rather than being built out on the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHundreds of crannog-like islands also dot the lakes (loughs) of Ireland, but though some of these also date to before Christ, evidence suggests they were used for just for a few centuries – in contrast to the millennia of crannog occupation in Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"More ancient island dwellings","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the reason for building crannogs remains a subject of debate, no one doubts the ancient engineering energy they embody. \"These crannogs represent a monumental effort made thousands of years ago to build mini-islands by piling up many tons of rocks on the loch bed,\" said Professor Fraser Sturt, an archaeologist at the University of Southampton, who studies crannogs in collaboration with Dr Duncan Garrow at the University of Reading.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word crannog translates from Gaelic as \"son of tree\" or \"young tree\", referring to the fact that their foundations were built by driving long timber piles into the bed of a loch before filling in the interior with stones or other natural materials to create a solid foundation. People dwelled on these distinctive platforms for thousands of years – in some places, right up to the 17th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust gathering the rocks to form the solid in-fill for the new islets would have involved extensive scouring and gathering of material, then the deployment of flotillas of boats to ferry the material from the shore – a hard enough task even without factoring in the vagaries of the Scottish weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo put the work involved into perspective, when archaeologists set out to reconstruct one of the many crannogs discovered on Loch Tay in Perthshire in the 1990s – using modern tools to gather and cut the timber – construction time spanned three years. Challenges included working out how to drive 7m- to 9m-long timber piles made from local alder trees into the loch bed through several metres of water by hand. The modern-day reconstructors turned to complex wooden scaffolding from which each timber pile could be twisted back and forth until it pierced 2m into the loch bed. To build just one crannog – which became the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.crannog.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScottish Crannog Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – required 168 timber piles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Scottish Crannog Centre in Loch Tay, Scotland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EScottish crannog research was pioneered by Robert Munro, who swapped a career as a 19th-Century medical practitioner for a later life passion for archaeology and anthropology. Munro excavated sites revealed by Victorian land reclamation around lochs, collecting his findings in the 1882 publication \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gutenberg.org\u002Febooks\u002F52339\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Scottish Lake Dwellings\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Yet nearly 150 years later, only 20% of Scotland's crannogs so far have received any expert study, while only 10% have been carbon dated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We know that crannogs were dwellings, people lived on these islets. But for what reason remains stubbornly unclear,\" said underwater archaeologist Barrie Andrian, who – along with her partner Dr Nick Dixon – has been a pathfinder in crannog research since the 1980s. \"Crannogs may have been the high-status dwellings of local leaders. Perhaps they were trading posts located on waterways people used to move through the landscape. Or perhaps living on water held some spiritual or cosmological significance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGarrow has some further suggestions. \"Their uses may well have changed regionally or through time. Some would have been built as special-purpose ritual sites, but others may have been constructed in a loch for defensive reasons. I think that, overall, they were used for many different purposes, even within the same period.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We know that crannogs were dwellings, people lived on these islets. But for what reason remains stubbornly unclear","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ancient.eu\u002FStone_Age\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhat is certain, though, is that crannogs provide a unique window on human life all the way back to Neolithic times in Britain, an era also sometimes called the New Stone Age. That is because the silt-carpeted floors and still, icy waters of Scottish lochs preserve much that would be lost elsewhere. Pristine pottery, such as that found by Murray in the Hebrides, is often found in superb condition, having lain undisturbed for millennia, cradled by the soft silt of tide-free lochs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The underwater environment of crannogs slows decay processes,\" said Andrian. \"The preservation is so good that wooden tools are perfectly preserved. And it is not just artefacts. The great preservation of waterlogged materials include macro plant and pollen remains that give us details about diet, the environment and lifestyle.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial views of an islet in Loch Bhorgastail, Scotland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe explained that the ancient loch dwellers kept a variety of familiar livestock animals, while cultivating crops such as emmer, spelt and barley. They grew plants such as flax to make ropes and textiles and used opium poppy seeds and other plants for medicinal purposes. \"Weeds such as stinging nettles and fat hen were common pot herbs,\" she added. \"Nettles would also have been processed for rope, string and fibre for textiles. Fragments of woven woollen textile were found at Oakbank on Loch Tay – a rare and exciting find that indicated the early Iron Age crannog dwellers practiced highly skilled weaving.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a founder member of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscottishwetlandarchaeology.org\u002F\"\u003EScottish Wetland Archaeology Programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Anne Crone has been another key figure in crannog research, in the area of dendrochronology – the scientific study of ancient timbers – for which crannogs provide a wonderful case study.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180926-an-ancient-engineering-feat-that-harnessed-the-wind\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran's ancient air conditioner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's little-known Highlanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170110-indias-ancient-engineering-marvel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia's ancient engineering marvel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Crannogs are a dendrochronologists' delight because wood is so lavishly used in their construction, and because the wood survives so well in the anaerobic conditions within the crannog,\" she said. \"Dendrochronology is able to date the felling of timber to the calendar year, and consequently we can develop very precise chronologies for the construction and occupation of a crannog.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExplorations by Crone and others are discovering unique finds across Scotland. \"We often find objects that we never find on dry land archaeological sites, like leather, wooden artefacts and textiles,\" she said. \"There are fantastic finds, including assemblages from Loch Glashan in Argyll that are on display in Glasgow's \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glasgowlife.org.uk\u002Fmuseums\u002Fvenues\u002Fkelvingrove-art-gallery-and-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKelvingrove Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E, and finds from Buiston crannog in Ayrshire on display in the \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nms.ac.uk\u002Fnational-museum-of-scotland\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museum of Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E in Edinburgh. These both include an array of wooden artefacts, as well as a leather book satchel at Loch Glashan.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as traditional hands-on searches – think dry-suited divers patiently sifting through silt in icy lochs – crannog studiers are drawing on modern technology, too. \"Techniques we have applied include side-scan sonar, dual frequency single-beam echo-sounder [to determine water depth], underwater and aerial photogrammetry [to create 2D and 3D models], real-time kinematic GPS survey, palaeoenvironmental coring [to provide a cross-section of natural activity through time], terrestrial excavation and radiocarbon dating,\" said Garrow. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFollowing Murray's pottery discovery, Google Earth helped idenfity other potential Hebridean crannog sites, including Loch Arnish, Loch Langabhat and Loch Borgastail; while Andrian uses drone, planes and even kites with cameras attached to spot sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Diver Chris Murray holding up an Unstan vessel from Loch Arnish in 2012","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAndrian and Dixon also masterminded the magnificent reconstruction of the ancient crannog dwelling that formed the \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.crannog.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EScottish Crannog Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built over several years in the 1990s\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E to give visitors a sense of what the ancient loch dwellers' lives may have been like. Set a stone's throw out into the waters of ravishing Loch Tay, their recreation drew on years of underwater explorations at the 2,500 year-old Oakbank Crannog, located off the village of Fearnan on the loch's north shore. The act of reconstruction was an eye-opening experience, Andrian revealed. \"It was quite an engineering feat for us, so we appreciated how skilled the ancient builders must have been.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the crannog reconstruction was sadly destroyed by fire in June 2021, the intent is for a new £12 million Crannog Museum to be built at Dalerb on Loch Tay's north shore, near the spot where another of the loch's 18 known crannogs had once existed. \"There were already plans to relocate to the other side of the loch – actually where we had hoped to excavate at some point in the future,\" said Andrian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWorking to rebuild the Scottish Crannog Centre is just part of an ongoing exploration of these remarkable ancient engineering marvels. \"As Scotland has so many lochs waiting to be explored, there is a distinct possibility that more crannogs will be discovered,\" said Andrian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe is echoed by Garrow, who plans to return this summer to one of his favourite locations at Loch Bhorgastail on the Isle of Lewis. \"It's a beautiful location, and has enormous promise in terms of finds. I can't wait to get there and start digging,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As Scotland has so many lochs waiting to be explored, there is a distinct possibility that more crannogs will be discovered","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMurray, whose chance search so changed the timeline of crannogs and their place in Scottish history, is also still regularly plunging into tiny Hebridean lochs in search of nuggets of Neolithic remembrance. He described his 2020 discovery – a near-perfect 5,500-year-old drinking vessel – to the Scottish islands' publication \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northern-times.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fformer-dornoch-man-discovers-5500-year-old-cup-in-loch-203536\u002F\"\u003EThe Northern Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\"It was only about 4ft down and I saw this tiny fragment sticking about a quarter of an inch out of the mud... I did take a sip of water from it, and to think the last person to hold this and put it to their lips was thousands of years ago was just incredible. To think it is older than Stonehenge, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.historicenvironment.scot\u002Fvisit-a-place\u002Fplaces\u002Fcalanais-standing-stones\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECallanish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the pyramids is just fantastic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of entrance to the Scottish Crannog Centre in Loch Tay, Scotland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-19T10:00:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Scotland's mysterious ancient artificial islands","headlineShort":"Scotland's mysterious 'loch dwellers'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Trees growing on a crannog on Loch Freuchie, Perthshire, Scotland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.5238","longitude":"4.1361","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Scottish Crannog Centre in Loch Tay, Scotland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While no one is sure exactly why these ingenious islets were were constructed, they provide a unique window on human life all the way back to Neolithic times in Britain.","summaryShort":"Nearly 600 ancient artificial islands have been uncovered across Scotland","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-18T21:46:59.552183Z","entity":"article","guid":"834d59e4-0d25-4c9f-9f3d-142a0c747599","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:11:17.273335Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","_id":"616ff65445ceed343c625b97","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even the world's highest point gets overcrowded.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThrough the window of a bus one summer, I remember being awestruck by the faint outline of a giant triangular mass of rock and snow, shrouded in a swirl of clouds for a brief minute, towering over Nepal's famous Pokhara valley and its eponymous city. Seeing an imposing peak dominate the skyline of a bustling town was unlike any other first glimpse of a Himalayan mountain I had experienced in my decade-long exploration in the Himalayas, either in India or in Nepal. I was quite amused that I didn't have to trek for days to get a glimpse of the elusive beauty; I merely had to sit in a bus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe mountain that inadvertently captured my imagination was neither Everest nor any of the country's seven other peaks that are more 8,000m tall, but a relatively lowly peak whose height would easily betray its beauty. Turns out, I wasn't alone in my obsession. Decades before me, another man also fell in love with this mountain – and left behind a rather quirky legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal\"\u003EThe Kung Fu nuns of Nepal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture\"\u003EThe birthplace of Canada’s mountain culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160311-a-story-of-reincarnation-in-nepal\"\u003EA story of rebirth in Nepal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMachhapuchhare – which translates to \"fishtail\" – is an iconic 6,993m mountain in central Nepal's Annapurna range that contains three of the world's 10 highest peaks. And yet, Machhapuchhare effortlessly steals the show, thanks to its position far from the much higher peaks of the Annapurna range, where it stands isolated and appears tall despite its humbler height.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe peak’s geographic position affords easy views of its different profiles from several places, and the stunning prominence of its vertical relief is inescapable from any angle or distance. Rising like twin spires twisting into each other, Machhapuchhare's double summit is joined by a sharp ridge and has as much allure as the steep, symmetrical triangular tip – its other profile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter that initial sight, I returned to Nepal several times and always made time to see my favourite mountain. Some days were spent in Pokhara, watching the sublime reflection of Machhapuchhare in Phewa Lake. Others were spent watching the early morning and late-evening sun cast glorious light on the pointed peak towering over the rural slopes around Begnas Lake. On other days, I gazed at the mountain from ridgetops like Sarangkot or Astam around Pokhara valley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Turns out, I wasn't alone in my obsession","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne winter, I finally hiked to the basecamp of a smaller peak called Mardi Himal beneath Machhapuchhare. Established in 2012, the short five-day, 40km trek reaches a height of 4,500m and offers one of Machhapuchhare's finest and closest views. Another 1,000m upwards to Mardi Himal summit is the closest anyone can get to the peak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat's because climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55218443\"\u003Ethe world's highest point\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – Mt Everest's 8,848m summit – gets overcrowded. But the reason Machhapuchhare remains a virgin peak – as well as the explosion of commercial trekking and mountaineering in Nepal today – can be attributed to one man: Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts (1916-1997).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJimmy Roberts, as he was popularly known, was a celebrated British Army officer whose contributions to Nepal and Himalayan mountaineering are profound. Roberts was appointed as the first military attaché to Nepal in 1958. He used his position, passion and knowledge of the Himalayas to open up the country's remote mountains for commercial mountaineering and trekking, an industry that has gone on to contribute significantly to Nepal’s economy and local livelihoods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe not only pioneered a golden age of Himalayan exploration, but also made its beauty accessible to the rest of the world when he founded the country's first trekking agency called Mountain Travel in 1964. He even co-opted and popularised the term \"trek\", which has become synonymous with hiking in the Himalayas today. For that, he is still fondly remembered as the \"father of trekking\" in Nepal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERoberts' fascination with Pokhara and Machhapuchhare began after reading a dispatch from Nepal written in 1936 by an army officer, who wrote of the mountain and a curious town on the banks of a lake. \"To see Pokhara and Machapuchare [sic] and the villages in which my men lived, and especially the Gurungs [one of the main Gurkha tribes in the Himalayas] soon became an obsession,\" Roberts wrote in the preface to the book Climbing the Fish’s Tail by Wilfrid Noyce. \"But in those days, the interior of Nepal was a forbidden land, more securely closed than even Mecca or Lhasa in their hey-day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1950, he finally saw his beloved mountain from close quarters. \"I was the first Englishman into my private Mecca [Pokhara]. There was Machapuchare shining in the moonlight, a great white pyramid incredibly aloof,\" he wrote of his seminal encounter. \"So Machapuchare became for me the ideal of a mountain, a personal possession yet out of this world, unattainable but mine by illogical right, brooding over a country and a people which would shape the rest of my life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1957, after more than 20 years of fixating on Machhapuchhare, Roberts organised the first expedition to summit the mountain (led by Noyce and joined by a few other climbers), which had not been officially climbed till then. One thing that stands out in Noyce's account of the climb was the ease with which Roberts let go of his summit dream when logistical issues forced the summit team to be pared down to two. Roberts volunteered to take the support team down while Noyce and another climber went ahead with the final summit push. They, too, ended up abandoning the ascent, just 45m below the summit due to bad weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the expedition, Roberts made a rather uncharacteristic request to the Nepal government: to have the peak restricted and thus to make Machhapuchhare a Himalayan summit that would remain forever unclimbed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESurprisingly, they obliged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELisa Choegyal, a writer and veteran tourism industry professional based in Nepal who knew Roberts personally since 1974, told me, \"Jimmy was not a mountaineer with a huge ego. Even though in this case, it sounds a little bit like it was hubris that if he couldn't climb it, he didn't want anyone else to climb it. But that doesn't really represent the very gentle character that he was in real life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERoberts felt a strong kinship with the Gurungs, for whom Machhapuchhare is a sacred peak, and the people of Chomrong, the last Gurung village before Machhapuchhare, weren't particularly happy with the foreign climbers trying to summit it. However, several mountains are sacred for several communities in Nepal, and that hasn't stopped the government from issuing climbing permits, nor did it stop Roberts from climbing other mountains. But perhaps it was his love of the Gurung people and his unwavering enchantment with the mountain that led to Roberts’ unusual request.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Its forbidden summit, tantalisingly within reach, somehow made it more enticing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExactly how Roberts managed to get the Nepal government to agree to remains a mystery, too. The sentiment, however, seems to have resonated well, with widespread acceptance within Nepal that the virgin peak is illegal to climb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, Roberts' association with the peak being off limits has been largely forgotten. In his later years, \"He used to smilingly say, 'It's very nice that they have still taken my advice that the peak should remain sacred.' And by then it was sort of just generally accepted that it is sacred,\" said Choegyal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday the prevailing view is that the mountain is sacred and thus forbidden. \"Machhapuchhare's summit is not meant to be stepped upon; it is only to be adored by the eyes,\" Tirtha Shrestha, a poet and long-time resident of Pokhara, told me, explaining that locals are of the view that Machhapuchhare should not be opened for climbing. \"Any discourse, not just on Pokhara, but about the beauty of the entire Himalayas, would be incomplete without mentioning Machhapuchhare. Its beauty has greatly moved poets, authors and artists. In many folk songs, the mountain has been showered with praises. Machhapuchhare, for us, is the epitome of beauty,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENeither Roberts nor I would disagree. Nor would anyone who’s been on the Mardi Himal trek or in the general vicinity of Pokhara valley. While I walked through the rhododendron groves in the lower hills, floating above the clouds at times all the way to the highest viewpoint from where the Annapurna range comes into full view, Machhapuchhare’s pinnacle always dominated the horizon and held me in a strange thrall. And its forbidden summit, tantalisingly within reach, somehow made it more enticing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E While it never became clear why Roberts wanted the peak to remain inviolate forever, especially after he himself tried to summit it once and got very close, it's hard to find fault with Roberts' move, seeing how many places have been ravaged by overtourism and commercial mountaineering. It is perhaps rather apposite that while Nepal’s many other mountains generate much-needed revenue, one sublime mountain remains untainted by the touch and ego of humans, quietly watching over the world from its sacred, solitary abode.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-17T20:49:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Himalayan peak off limits to climbers","headlineShort":"The rare mountain you can't climb","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even the world's highest point gets overcrowded.","summaryShort":"Its forbidden summit remains tantalisingly within reach","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-02-16T20:55:08.116517Z","entity":"article","guid":"e5f10e3e-d561-4681-a964-234391087a93","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:03:45.026017Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village","_id":"616ff64145ceed2d257f90d2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"After Nepal’s 2015 devastating earthquake, Maila Lama came up with an ingenious solution. Two years on, his village has bounced back in a most remarkable way.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELife for Maila and Dawa Jangbo Lama came to a crashing halt when a 7.8-magnitude earthquake rocked Nepal in April 2015. The couple scurried out in the nick of time, but their house, which was also their boutique travel lodge and grocery store, was damaged beyond repair. It seemed that life would never be the same again. But the resilient pair came up with an ingenious solution – and two years on, their village has bounced back in a most remarkable way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPrior to the earthquake, Manekharka was a quiet, picturesque village of around 60 families perched on the mountains in Nepal's Sindupalchowk District. The name Manekharka means the land of many stupas and greenery. Although it's only 65km from the capital Kathmandu, the journey takes seven hours by bus along a treacherous, unpaved road. Like most Nepali villages, people scrape by, farming potatoes, maize and millet. The devastating earthquake wreaked havoc on their livelihoods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy heart sank as I flew over Sindupalchowk district towards Manekharka less than two weeks after the earthquake to help with the relief efforts. We looked down on dozens of tiny villages that were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=En4COqvZG6E\"\u003Ecompletely flattened\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It was heartbreaking to watch people lose what little they had: bed, clothes, food and cattle. According to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.un.org.np\u002Freports\u002Fnepal-earthquake-2015-post-disaster-needs-assessment-vol-b-sector-reports\"\u003EWorld Bank data\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the earthquake pushed an additional 2.5% to 3.5% of Nepalis into poverty – that’s around 700,000 people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore the earthquake, the Lama's travel lodge mostly catered to hikers on their way to the 4,100m peak of Panch Pokhari, or bus drivers who shuttled people back and forth from Kathmandu. Dawa Jangbo took great pride in providing them with a comfortable bed, hot meals and homemade millet-based wine after dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile most of the buildings in Manekharka were made of rocks held together by mud, the Lama's travel lodge was a sturdier wood-and-stone structure reinforced with concrete. Despite this, the roof caved in, several walls toppled over and it was on the verge of collapse. A few Buddhist paintings were found hanging on the few walls still standing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It will take 50 years to rebuild it – maybe more,” said 51-year-old Maila, as he looked over the remains of the lodge and wondered if he could ever return his life’s cherished work to its carefully nurtured glory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey – along with 23 other villagers – spent more than two weeks huddled under a plastic tarp to shelter from the nightly monsoon downpours. The rains dashed their hopes of retrieving any clothes or food reserves from the rubble. All Dawa Jangbo had was a bag of potatoes that she’d bought a few hours before the earthquake and placed by the front door. The family survived the entire ordeal eating \u003Cem\u003Ealoo tarkari\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a local curry made with boiled potatoes mixed with some vegetables and spices they borrowed from their neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELife was grim in Manekharka. But the Lamas were inspired by heart-warming acts of kindness around them. Suroj Koju, a 26-year-old lab technician, was returning to Manekharka by bus from his hometown, Bhaktapur, when the earthquake struck and triggered landslides around him. Rather than turning back, he hiked 10 hours to the village and immediately joined his small medical team at the Dhulikhel Hospital Manekharka Health Clinic, treating patients who were lying outside in the fields because no one dared to enter the building due to the aftershocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Manekharka community leaned on one another during those difficult weeks. They cooked and shared meals together as one family. Rather than the usual pleasantries, the village greeting became ‘Have you had food?’\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in Nepal, people living in poverty closely identify with their homes, since they often don’t have much else. And when the earthquake relegated many to sleeping under plastic tarps, it led to increased \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.europsy-journal.com\u002Farticle\u002FS0924-9338(16)00357-6\u002Fabstract\"\u003Emental health issues\u003C\u002Fa\u003E throughout the country, including anxiety, depression and even substance abuse. Many villagers in Manekharka replied to even the most basic questions with \u003Cem\u003EKe garne ghar chaina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning ‘What can I do? I have no home now’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter two weeks under the tarp, Maila started sifting through the rubble. An experienced carpenter, he salvaged some corrugated tin sheets, a doorframe and some mesh wiring to build a makeshift shed for his family with a borrowed hammer and nails. Within a couple days, he was able to protect his wife and three young children from the elements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuoyed by his achievement, Maila led a handful of villagers to replicate the process for the dozens of other homeless families over the next two months. His initiative: to put a roof over every family’s head. And his work gave the community a new lease on life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy June 2015, a few plots of land that were formerly farms were now lined with nearly 40 temporary shelters built by Maila and his team. This was particularly astonishing because even a whole year after the earthquake, the Nepal government \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002F2016\u002F04\u002F25\u002Fnepal-earthquake-anniversary-one-year-on-not-one-home-rebuilt-by\u002F\"\u003Estill had not rebuilt a single home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI returned to Manekharka on the first anniversary of the earthquake. The mountains were still scarred by landslides. Despite little government help, life in Manekharka had inched towards normalcy. Over the past few months, the Lamas had steadily built a series of temporary shelters that would act as a replacement for their travel lodge. Their first one housed two beds, and by the time I arrived, they’d returned to their pre-earthquake capacity of 12 beds. I booked a room to experience life first-hand in a shed made from salvaged rubble.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt obviously wasn’t luxury. The corrugated tin sheets on the roof amplified the sound of every raindrop, especially at night. The walls were thin sheets of plywood or more corrugated tin. The single window was made of mesh wiring with a thin curtain draped over it. But it was enough to make me feel safe and grateful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven though it’s almost two years since the earthquake, most people in Manekharka still live in these ‘temporary’ shelters that were supposed to last only six to eight months. Even so, they have plenty to celebrate. The village school has reopened, and the medical staff at the Manekharka Health Clinic continue to treat patients every day – even those who can't afford to pay. Trekkers and bus drivers have a place to rest. Life in Manekharka goes on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve made it through many challenges since we got married 27 years ago,” Dawa Jangbo said. “We will continue to do what we can and rebuild Manekharka.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-02-21T14:37:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The man who rebuilt a village","headlineShort":"The man who rebuilt a village","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"After Nepal’s 2015 devastating earthquake, Maila Lama came up with an ingenious solution. Two years on, his village has bounced back in a most remarkable way.","summaryShort":"An ingenious solution to a devastating earthquake","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2017-02-20T21:29:15.803714Z","entity":"article","guid":"6d6c759f-7001-4acb-a701-9233ad070fda","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:37:59.925765Z","project":"travel","slug":"20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","_id":"616ff62045ceed1e5e6fc495","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the nuns’ smiling faces conceal an incredible energy and strength.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was barely 5am, but at Druk Gawa Khilwa nunnery in Kathmandu, Nepal, the nuns were already practicing Kung Fu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith one leg folded forward and the other one stretched out backward, they lunged in the air repeatedly, striving for perfection in a series of impeccable kicks. Cries of energy punctuated each movement, a shrill accompaniment to the booming drums. Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the women’s smiling faces concealed an incredible energy and strength.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese are the Kung-Fu nuns: Nepal’s only female order to practice the deadly martial art made famous by Bruce Lee. In the inherently patriarchal Buddhist monastic system, women are considered inferior to men. Monks usually occupy all positions of leadership, leaving nuns to the household duties and other tedious chores. But in 2008, the leader of the 1,000-year-old Drukpa lineage, His Holiness The Gyalwang Drukpa, changed all that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a visit to Vietnam where he saw nuns receiving combat training, he decided to bring the idea back to Nepal by encouraging his nuns to learn self-defence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHis simple motive: to promote gender equality and empower the young women, who mostly come from poor backgrounds in India and Tibet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvery day, 350 nuns, aged between 10 and 25, take part in three intense training sessions where they practice the exercises taught to them by their teacher, who visits twice a year from Vietnam.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as perfecting their postures, they handle traditional weapons, such as the \u003Cem\u003Eki am\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sword), small \u003Cem\u003Edao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sabre), big \u003Cem\u003Edao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (halberd), \u003Cem\u003Etong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (lance) and \u003Cem\u003Enunchaku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chain attached to two metal bars).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThose with exceptional physical and mental strength are taught the brick-breaking technique, made famous in countless martial arts movies, which is only performed on special occasions like His Holiness’ birthday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe nuns, most of them with black belts, agree that Kung Fu helps them feel safe, develops self-confidence, gets them strong and keeps them fit. But an added bonus is the benefit of concentration, which allows them to sit and meditate for longer periods of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJigme Konchok, a nun in her early 20s who has been practicing Kung Fu for more than five years, explained the process:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I need to be constantly aware of my movement, know whether it is right or not, and correct it immediately if necessary. I must focus my attention on the sequence of movements that I have memorized and on each movement at once. If the mind wanders, then the movement is not right or the stick falls. It is the same in meditation.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the name of gender equality, The Gyalwang Drukpa also encourages his nuns to learn traditionally masculine skills, such as plumbing, electrical fitting, typing, cycling and English. Under his guidance, they’re taught to lead prayers and are given basic business skills – typically work done by monks – and they run the nunnery’s guesthouse and coffee shop. The progressive women even drive 4X4s down Druk Amitabha mountain to Kathmandu, about 30km away, to get supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EImbued with a new confidence, they are starting to use their skills and energy in community development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Nepal was hit with a massive earthquake in April 2015, the nuns refused to move to a safer area and instead trekked to nearby villages to help remove rubble and clear pathways. They distributed food to the survivors and helped pitch tents for shelter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEarly this year these nuns – led by His Holiness himself – cycled 2,200km from Kathmandu to Delhi to spread the message of environmental awareness and encourage people to use bicycles instead of cars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd when the nuns visit areas plagued by violence, like Kashmir, they deliver lectures on the importance of diversity and tolerance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EForemost on the nuns’ agenda, however, is the promotion of female empowerment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Kung Fu helps us to develop a certain kind of confidence to take care of ourselves and others in times of need.” Konchok explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E If you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-09-19T17:21:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Kung Fu nuns of Nepal","headlineShort":"The Kung Fu nuns of Nepal","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the nuns’ smiling faces conceal an incredible energy and strength.","summaryShort":"They’re black belts in the deadly martial art made famous by Bruce Lee","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2016-09-18T21:20:04.739761Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f0d3756-555a-4ee0-86b1-a6e7aeb297db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:25:58.317026Z","project":"travel","slug":"20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","_id":"616ff63745ceed2760040e19","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fneelima-vallangi"],"bodyIntro":"Created thousands of years ago in the remote reaches of the Himalayas, chhurpi can be eaten for up to 20 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnveloped in a thick veil of grey mist, Nepal's remote Himalayan village of Parvathy Kund was nearly deserted. One of the few people in sight was an old woman sitting in the doorway of a wooden house, who flashed a welcoming, toothless smile at my friend and I. \"Would you like to eat some \u003Cem\u003Echhurpi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?\" my friend asked the woman, having just bought a few kilograms of the local cheese from a factory opposite her home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09xqwhy.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when the monsoon starts, the green pastures with wildflowers and the Himalayas here look very beautiful. You can see the snow-covered mountains, you can see the animals, you can see the plentiful grasslands and our chauris everywhere.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Pasang Darche Tamang, cheesemaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't finish chewing that, even in a whole year!\" she responded with a hearty laugh. After all, chhurpi is considered to be the hardest cheese in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA traditional product prepared by pastoralists in the highlands of the Eastern Himalayas, chhurpi is a protein-rich cheese with a smoky flavour and hard consistency that gradually becomes chewier the longer you gnaw at it. It is made from the milk produced by \u003Cem\u003Echauri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a cross between a male yak and a female cow – and it's a favourite snack in pockets of eastern India and much of Nepal and Bhutan. People often chew on small cubes of the stuff for hours on end, like a rock-hard bubble gum that slowly softens with time and saliva. The solid snack's uniquely hard texture is a consequence of the high-altitude climate and the harsh lifestyle of the Himalayas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe previous day, at an altitude of 4,000m, high above the village of Parvathy Kund, a chhurpi maker from the nearby village of Gatlang named Pasang Darche Tamang patiently churned chauri milk in a makeshift tent perched at the end of a precipice. Fog rolled into the tent's opening from the green valley below as relentless rain pelted its blue canvas. Smoke from the wooden fire filled the tent, where dried pieces of meat hung over the boiling milk cauldron to extend its shelf life in the harsh, Himalayan altitudes. He had been turning the handle of the machine that separates milk from cream without a break for more than three hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It needs strength,\" Tamang said. \"Without force, the machine won't even turn.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xqt54"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery morning, Tamang wakes up at 04:00 to start milking his 25 chauris to make chhurpi. Several yak herders from nearby pastures visit Tamang's tent to deposit fresh milk from their own chauris throughout the day. Including the milk from his herd, Tamang collects more than 300 litres per day, which has to be turned into chhurpi immediately before it goes bad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELiving on the roof of the world with limited trade opportunities and arable land, animal husbandry has been the mainstay of many Himalayan communities for centuries. According to Mukta Singh Lama Tamang (no relation to Pasang), an anthropologist at Tribhuvan University in Kathmandu, dairy has been an inextricable part of Himalayan culture and livelihood throughout history. Mukta says chhurpi was concocted thousands of years ago out of the need to do something productive with the extra milk that can't be consumed or sold anymore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBhutan's 350-year-old recipe for wellbeing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people go to bars to drink milk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the unique features of chhurpi is that it has a very low moisture content. This makes it very hard to bite into, but it also helps the cheese stay edible for months, or even years, when fermented for six to 12 months, dried and stored properly in animal skin. In the remote Himalayan highlands, this has made chhurpi particularly desirable, as yak herders have been able to rely on it during long journeys, as well as transport and sell it at markets. Since both fermentation and dehydration extends a food's shelf life, chhurpi is particularly well suited to high altitudes where there are few fresh supplies and other protein-rich foods. Soft chhurpi, before it is smoked and dried, is often used in curries, soups and pickled along with cucumber and radish, while the hard variety is chewed by itself as a snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xqtcp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe previous night, a few hundred meters below his cheese-making tent, three young calves were packed inside Pasang's small stone shelter while his 25 chauris were tied up outside. Pasang's father, Finjo, boiled chauri milk on an open fire, and once it was ready, he, Pasang and Pasang's uncle slurped on the hot milk with great pleasure as the flickering flame illuminated the hardened lines on their sunburnt faces. The three men had been living in the alpine grasslands for weeks, grazing the chauris in the verdant pastures and collecting fresh milk that would be turned into chhurpi daily. Their lives revolved entirely around their animals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're grateful to have all the chauris and be able to make chhurpi because we are illiterate and this is the only way [we] can sustain ourselves. This is what we know, how to make chhurpi, and this is how we will survive. Not only do we get to carry on our ancient culture, but this also helps us economically,\" said Pasang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the rain outside gathered force, Finjo recounted his memories of the past: \"There was no road, and we had no provision to get essential supplies. We only had milk and nothing else. And we used to prepare whatever we could from it, like chhurpi and butter, and trade them in villages nearby in exchange for rice, grain, salt and oil. If we needed money, we'd go to a bigger market like Trishuli to get vegetables, which we would then bring back to our village and sell for money. It was tough.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xqtjw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven as roads have slowly cut through the mountainous valleys here, life is still difficult for pastoralists like Pasang. He has been rearing chauris for roughly 20 years, and has spent a considerable amount of his life away from family, staying high up in the pastures with his livestock for several months each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is a special kind of grass that only grows at this [3,500 to 4,000m] altitude, called \u003Cem\u003Ebuggi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, he said. \"The chauris don't lose weight in the winter when they eat buggi. And they produce thicker milk that tastes better when they graze here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot only is chhurpi organic, produced from the finest milk from chauri that exclusively graze on herbs and grass in the high alpine regions, it is also considered quite healthy and nutritious because of its very low fat content and high protein value. And no preservatives or additives are needed when following the ancient preparation method that has been perfected over centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xqtb1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter the cream is removed, the skimmed milk is thoroughly boiled and mixed with whey from previously curdled milk and other acidic agents like lime or citric acid. Cheese curds form almost instantly, coagulating and separating from the clear whey liquid. The solid mass is strained and collected in cotton or jute bags, and the blocks are beaten and pressed tight under big stones or other heavy weights for 24 hours to remove excess water. These solid blocks of cheese are left to ferment for a few days before being cut into rectangular blocks that are dried in the shade and smoked over kitchen fires, giving chhurpi its distinct taste and texture. Properly cured chhurpi will stay edible without becoming mouldy for up to 20 years. However, the longer it is cured, the drier and harder it gets. According to Pasang, chhurpi tastes best when it's eaten within the first five to six months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELong before visiting Pasang, I once tried to eat a chhurpi cube in Kathmandu, where it is often found in local shops, and I timed how long it would take for fun. My Nepali friend devoured a piece in six minutes 53 seconds, but after working on mine for just as long, my teeth hurt and my chhurpi had nary a scratch on it. Soft chhurpi tastes similar to crude paneer, but the harder it gets, the more flavour it loses. It Is said hard chhurpi takes anything between minutes to hours to soften, after which it tastes like a dense milky solid with a smoky flavour as it dissolves slowly. The so-called world's hardest cheese is admittedly not everyone's cup of tea, and I never could bite into one so far, but Nepalis across the country adore it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Pasang whether he liked chhurpi, despite all the hardships involved in making it, there was a spark in his eyes. \"\u003Cem\u003EEkdum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\" he replied – Nepali for, \"Absolutely!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xqt75"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-06T19:57:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Chhurpi: The world's hardest cheese?","headlineShort":"The world's hardest cheese?","image":["p09xqtb1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"28.15605","longitude":"85.26109","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09xqtcp"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170220-the-man-who-rebuilt-a-village","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Created thousands of years ago in the remote reaches of the Himalayas, chhurpi can be eaten for up to 20 years.","summaryShort":"It can be eaten for up to 20 years","tag":["tag\u002Ffood"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-05T20:04:48.454563Z","entity":"article","guid":"781eec95-1bb7-4847-acf3-86ffe1555ef4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-06T13:02:55.647411Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnepal"],"destinationStat":"asia_nepal","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","_id":"616ff67645ceed343f778b98","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tikal was the economic and ceremonial hub of the Maya civilisation. But its stone palaces and temples would never have been constructed without mastery over one vital substance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding in the ancient Mayan city of Tikal in Guatemala, visitors are surrounded by steep limestone pyramids nearly as tall as Notre Dame cathedral while the calls of howler monkeys and toucans emanate from the site's rainforest backdrop. Constructed without the aid of beasts of burden, metal tools or the wheel, these grandiose stoneworks served as the seats of power for the kings and priests who ruled over what was one of the most influential city states in the Maya realm, which spanned Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize as well as portions of Honduras and El Salvador.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETikal was an economic and ceremonial hub of a civilisation that, in light of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200914-in-guatemala-the-maya-world-untouched-for-centuries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent laser-based aerial surveys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that revealed more than 60,000 structures hidden for centuries by thick jungle, may have once encompassed as many as 10 to 15 million people in total.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the presence of Tikal's massive stone palaces and temples, each one oriented to attend to the sun's daily transit across the sky, the Maya's prowess as architects and astronomers looms large. But the Maya never would have accurately predicted eclipses and these monuments never would have risen up towards the sky without the mastery of something much more elemental to Mayan survival at Tikal: water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith no rivers or lakes nearby, the Maya had to create a network of huge reservoirs at Tikal to collect and store enough rainwater during the region's prodigious wet season to last its sizable population – estimates range from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-021-91620-6#ref-CR1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E40,000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to as many as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.sciencemag.org\u002Fcontent\u002F361\u002F6409\u002Feaau0137\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E240,000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people at the city's 8th Century peak – through the four- to six-month dry season. These reservoirs facilitated more than 1,000 years of Mayan presence at Tikal, from roughly 600 BC until the site's urban core was finally abandoned by the ruling class around 900 AD.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELast year, archaeologists using modern scientific techniques \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erevealed a new depth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the Maya's hydrological feats. Sediment cores taken from Tikal's reservoirs show that the Maya created the oldest known water filtration system in the western hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stone geometrical art design engraved at Tikal, Guatemala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Maya's water purification system was so advanced that one of its key materials, zeolite, is still widely used in water filters today. Zeolites are a type of volcanic mineral made mostly of aluminium, silicon and oxygen that forms when volcanic ash reacts with alkaline groundwater. They come in many forms and have unique physical and chemical properties that allow them to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwcponline.com\u002F2021\u002F03\u002F15\u002Fzeolite-a-superior-water-purification-material\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efilter out contaminants ranging from heavy metals to tiny microbes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Individual zeolite grains have a porous, cage-like structure, which makes them excellent physical filters, and they are also negatively charged, which means other elements will readily bind to them. This means that when water passes through zeolites, suspended particles can get physically or chemically stuck to the grains of zeolite while the water keeps flowing through the gaps.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200914-in-guatemala-the-maya-world-untouched-for-centuries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya world untouched for centuries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwiterland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180619-irans-ancient-engineering-marvel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran's ancient engineering marvel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough archaeologists only found zeolites in one of Tikal's reservoirs, now referred to as Corriental, shards of clay vessels found there suggest the purified waters of Corriental were used specifically for drinking. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe researchers behind this discovery say the Mayan use of zeolite is the oldest known use of the mineral for water purification in the world, predating its next appearance in a sand filtration system developed by British scientist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert Bacon in 1627\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by roughly 1,800 years. The Maya's zeolite-powered water filtration system, which scholars say looks to have first been constructed around 164 BC, is predated by a cloth filter known as the Hippocratic sleeve that was developed in ancient Greece around 500 BC, but the Maya's method would have been far more effective at removing invisible contaminants such as bacteria or lead. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm Native American and I've always been bothered that archaeologists and anthropologists have traditionally assumed that the Indigenous people of the Americas did not develop the technological muscle that was found elsewhere in the ancient world in places like Greece, Egypt, India or China,\" said Kenneth Tankersley, an archaeological geologist at the University of Cincinnati and lead author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E documenting the Maya's use of zeolite. \"This system provided the Maya with safe drinking water for more than 1,000 years and other filtration systems known from that era were primitive by comparison – the early Greek filtration method was just bags of cloth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've always been bothered that archaeologists and anthropologists have traditionally assumed that the Indigenous people of the Americas did not develop the technological muscle that was found elsewhere in the ancient world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETikal is located in what is now northern Guatemala, and in this part of the world there are only two seasons: very wet and very dry. To make matters even more challenging, the wet season's torrential downpours swiftly drain away because, as rainwater seeps through the thin topsoil, it becomes acidic enough to dissolve the calcium-rich limestone that makes up the region's bedrock. This creates what geologists call a karst landscape riddled with sinkholes and caves where the water table is roughly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z\"\u003E200m below the surface\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, well out of the Maya's reach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithout bodies of freshwater nearby to draw from, residents of this Central American metropolis had to devise ways of making water last when it arrived in the wet season. That's where the reservoirs came in – and because Tikal is centred around a hillock, the Maya were able to artfully utilise the slopes to funnel water into those reservoirs. Even the great central plaza, which sits between Temples One and Two and is flanked by the main acropolis, is paved with huge stones that were all placed at just the right incline to drain water into canals that emptied into the nearby Temple and Palace reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tikal ruins emerging out of dense rainforest","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EModern visitors to Tikal will need to make an extra effort to locate the reservoirs, which live on today mostly as depressions in the soil, but some of the dams and earthen berms used to impound the vast quantities of water that once slaked the city's thirst are still evident to the informed observer. The Palace reservoir is estimated to have once stored \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.sciencemag.org\u002Fcontent\u002F361\u002F6409\u002Feaau0137\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E31 million litres of water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the zeolite-purified \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECorriental is thought to have had a 58-million-litre capacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in its heyday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe discovery of Corriental's filtration system emerged from fieldwork conducted around 2010, when researchers collected 10 core samples of sediment from four of Tikal's reservoirs. These cores revealed that dangerous levels of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z#ref-CR2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtamination from the heavy metal mercury and the tell-tale signs of toxic algal blooms plagued the Palace and Temple reservoirs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Tikal's core around the time the ruling elites abandoned the city centree in the 9th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut almost as striking as the contamination itself was the fact that the Corriental reservoir stayed virtually pristine even as the Palace and Temple reservoirs grew toxic. When Tankersley looked more closely at the Corriental samples, he found four discrete layers of sand that featured bits of crystalline quartz and zeolites that didn't appear in any of the other reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the team surveyed the surrounding area there were no natural sources of this type of sand, let alone zeolites, leading the researchers to suggest the material had been intentionally brought in for use in some kind of filter at the entrance to the reservoir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy chance, one of the researchers on the project knew of a depression some 30km northeast of Tikal featuring similar-looking sand that is known as Bajo de Azúcar, which locals had told him has crystal-clear, sweet-tasting water. Testing revealed that Bajo de Azúcar's rocks and sand did contain zeolites and thus could have been Tikal's source for the zeolites at Corriental.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mayan gate in Tikal, Guatemala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Without a time machine we don' know what happened exactly,\" said Tankersley, \"but it doesn' take a lot of deduction to imagine someone from Tikal thinking: 'If sweet, clean water is coming out of this crystalline volcanic tuff, maybe we could break some off and use it to make our water clean as well.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Maya may not have understood what the zeolite in particular was doing, but they understood the importance of keeping water clean","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe researchers hypothesise that the zeolite sand might have been sandwiched between layers of woven plant leaves called \u003Cem\u003Epetates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to make filters. Those filters might have then been embedded in porous walls of limestone bricks that the Maya installed in the path of the water flowing into the reservoir. According to the study detailing the Maya's use of zeolite, sand by itself would have made the water look clear, but wouldn't have had any impact on microbes or mercury. With the addition of zeolite, the Maya got clear water that was also clean even by modern standards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Maya may not have understood what the zeolite in particular was doing, but they understood the importance of keeping water clean,\" said Lisa Lucero, an anthropologist at the University of Illinois who was not involved in the paper, \"and they employed their technology and their knowledge of the environment to purify their drinking water.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe four layers of zeolite-containing sand suggest that the filter was blasted out by flood waters during particularly violent rainy seasons and subsequently rebuilt several times over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough Corriental is the only place that this Mayan zeolite filtration system has been found, that doesn't rule out its use elsewhere. Liwy Grazioso, director of Guatemala's Miraflores Museum and co-author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z#ref-CR2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that discovered the contamination of the Palace and Temple reservoirs, says she hopes this finding will encourage more study of Mayan reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A partially excavated Mayan pyramid at Tikal with jungle stil covering parts of it","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't think Tikal was the only place with this technology,\" said Grazioso. \"Reservoirs were everywhere in the Maya world and only a handful have been studied, but if we don't study them, we'll never know.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Tankersley, these discoveries showcase the riches that can be found when researchers look beyond shiny material artefactse made of gold or jade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe suggests that visitors to Tikal should not just marvel at the structures, but also contemplate the people who built them 1,000 or even 2,000 years ago without machines or pack animals. \"Think about what their accomplishments were,\" he said, \"and remember that this is not an extinct people, those accomplishments are the heritage of Central America's modern Indigenous population.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-09T22:02:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Maya's ingenious secret to survival","headlineShort":"The Maya's ingenious secret to survival","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mayan ruins at Tikal National Park, Guatemala","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"17.2220","longitude":"89.6237","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mayan ruins at Tikal National Park, Guatemala","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tikal was the economic and ceremonial hub of the Maya civilisation. But its stone palaces and temples would never have been constructed without mastery over one vital substance.","summaryShort":"It proves the Indigenous people of the Americas were highly technological","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-08T22:11:47.629403Z","entity":"article","guid":"e7a89b55-d801-4839-87f9-e6cfdb392df8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T04:07:10.260363Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra","_id":"616ff63545ceed2544053b4e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As visitors flock to see the Yemen island’s Candyland-like features, the increase in tourism is both helping to ease poverty and straining traditional ways of life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENestled\nhigh on a plateau between the Haghier mountain range and the Arabian Sea, five\nSocotrans gathered in a stone hut devoid of electricity, running water and all\nbut the most essential supplies. After a fire-cooked dinner of goat, rice and\ntea, a group of Dixam plateau men settled in for a standard night of song,\npoetry and discussion about their island’s future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ffeature\u002F20120629-omans-underground-playgrounds\"\u003ERelated article: Oman’s underground playgrounds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESocotra is\nan island of roughly 50,000 people located 380km off the coast of Yemen, the country\nto which it only technically belongs. Far removed from the political and security\ninstability on the mainland, Socotra’s stunning microclimates,\nexceptional biodiversity and Candyland-like features make it an inimitable paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1263\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Socotra archipelago is home to hundreds of endemic or endangered\nplant and animal species. The iconic “Dragon’s Blood” tree (\u003Cem\u003EDracaena cinnabari\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), for instance,\ndefies expectations, with moisture-capturing canopies that reach toward the sky\nand sap that runs red, giving the plant its name. Socotran culture is equally\nunique, having been preserved by centuries of near total isolation. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EAs is\ntypical of the island’s residents, none of the men in Dixam know their age, let\nalone their birthdate. A few are fluent in Arabic, but most prefer to speak\nSocotri, a sharp yet pleasant native language spoken only on the island. Since\n1999 though, when a commercial airport was built on the outskirts of the\ncapital Hadibu, outsiders have started to discover Socotra, a trend that is\nhelping to ease poverty and diversify the economy, but is also putting the\ntraditional way of life at risk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E“We protect\nthe environment and nature because when visitors come they are comfortable,”\nsaid one man in the hut, unconsciously verbalising Socotra’s shift from a\nself-sufficient oasis to one increasingly reliant on external support. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the\nlast decade, tourism has been a boon to the economy. The pristine environment\nand untouched feel makes Socotra an alluring, yet under-travelled destination. Visitors\ncan wander over cragged peaks, through Dragon's Blood forests, deep into\nstalagmite caves and across white sand dunes before plunging into the crisp,\nblue ocean. They can hike the 1,520m-high Skand peak, swim alongside dolphins, rock\nclimb, lounge on world-class beaches or stop and try the locals’ fermented goat’s\nmilk; no doubt an acquired taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the western-most\ncity of Qalansiyah to the Dihamri Protected Area on the island’s northeastern\npoint, goats are a notably ubiquitous part of the landscape. Brought to Socotra\ncenturies ago by sailors, they reproduced rapidly and are now a staple of island\nlife, providing both food and income for their owners. Unfortunately, they also\neat virtually everything in their path, including the seedlings of rare plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EHarry Jans,\na passionate traveller and amateur botanist, learned about Socotra after seeing a\npicture of the Dragon’s Blood tree on the side of a garbage can at the Royal\nBotanic Garden Edinburgh. Intrigued, he typed the words into Google and was\nblown away by the strange images before him. A quick search for Socotra brings up\nnot only the Dragon’s Blood, but also the gnome of the plant world: the endemic\nDesert Rose (\u003Cem\u003EAdenium obesum sokotranum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E).\nWith its stout, branchless trunk topped with tufts of green leaves, the Desert\nRose is the island’s most well-known type of Bottle tree, a variety that survives\nin island’s drier regions by storing water in their trunks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E“This is an\ninspection tour to get more info about Socotra,” he explained less than a year\nlater, sitting on a beach during a break from snorkelling in Dihamri. Jans leads \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jansalpines.com\u002F\"\u003Ebotanical tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around the world, and\nplans to return to Socotra again in 2015 with, as he puts it, “20 plant freaks”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite an\ninflux of tourists, Socotra can hardly be described as crowded. Even prior to\nthe Arab Spring uprisings that swept Yemen in 2011, Socotra hosted a mere 4,000\ntourists per year, most of whom would visit between September and April to\navoid the island’s summer windy season. Due to the unrest, visitor numbers took\na precipitous drop into the hundreds, but this past season the figure climbed\nback up to 1,400, a sign that the industry is beginning to recover. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EYet as Mohammed\nAmer, the former head of Socotra’s environmental office, pointed out, any increase in visitors poses a\nchallenge. “The problem we always have, with the environment, is that we clash\nwith the interests of the people.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOutside\nmajor cities, one place this equilibrium could be jeopardised is at the massive\nsand dunes of Arher on the eastern coast. Ten storeys high, these wind-swept\npiles rise from the sea and abut steep, rocky cliffs. Tourists camp along the fresh-water\nstreams that flow between the dunes, and swim off the nearby Ras Irsal\npeninsula. Without proper management, the area is ripe for harmful development that\ncould disrupt the delicate ecosystem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EAside from\ntourists, foreign companies have also become interested in Socotra. They gather frankincense, endemic flora known for its powerful\nmedicinal qualities, and a variety of other natural wonders at unsustainable rates. Mahdi\nNaseeb, a local \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.socotra-island.net\u002Fvisit-socotra\"\u003Etour\nguide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E complained that\nunscrupulous harvesters “take Dragon Blood all the time, even if it is not the\nseason”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most\ndrastic change, however, may be still to come. Though the timeline remains\nunclear, plans for a new, vastly expanded port funded by Kuwait has stirred\ndebate, as it could\neventually bring thousands more people to Socotra each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the\nDixam plateau, the men huddled around the fire were of two minds. Protecting\nthe island for future generations while simultaneously accommodating modernisation and combating poverty will clearly\nbe a struggle. Those against the port outnumbered those in favour, but only by\na narrow three-to-two margin – an ominous sign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce lost,\nneither Socotra’s ecosystem nor its culture could be restored. Although the\nappearance of foreign bathers has at times chaffed the island’s generally\nconservative population, other issues are likely to prove more detrimental. Preserving\nthe Socotri language, for example, will be one barometer of the ability to strike\na balance between old and new.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike his\nfather, Naseeb speaks mostly Arabic with his friends. “It's difficult to find\nyoung people [who] greet in Socotri in the market in the city. I'm scared it\nwill be lost.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EFortunately,\nthe worries about the island’s fate remain largely conjecture. For now, Socotra’s\naura of envious simplicity and consummate natural beauty endure, begging to be\nadmired and protected by locals and outsiders alike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPracticalities\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EGetting to\nSocotra takes planning and bit of cooperation from Mother Nature. Unless you\nare citizen of Egypt, Syria, Jordan or an Arab Gulf country, you must have a\nvisa to enter Yemen. They can be obtained relatively easily at Yemeni embassies\nor consulates around the world, as well as through tour companies based in\nYemen, such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.eternal-yemen.com\u002F\"\u003EEternal Yemen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They take at least two weeks to process. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are\nregular flights to the island’s only airport, and disembarking on the Yemeni\nmainland is not necessary, though worth the detour. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fyemenia.com\u002F\"\u003EYemenia\nAirways\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers\nweekly flights from the capital Sana’a, and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.felixairways.com\u002F\"\u003EFelix Airways\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\nflies the route three days a week. Felix also offers a weekly flight from\nSharjah in the United Arab Emirates. Delays due to inclement\nweather are common.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is best\nto make arrangements for Socotra through a tour company or upon arrival. The United\nNations Development Programme lists a number of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.socotraproject.org\u002Findex.php?page=content&id=21\"\u003Etour\noperators\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"mailto:saqatriman@yahoo.com\"\u003EIsmael Mohammed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E comes particularly highly regarded – and other\nuseful travel tips on their \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.socotraproject.org\u002Findex.php?page=sections&id=4\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EAll the hotels\non Socotra are located in Hadibu. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.summerlandsocotra.com\u002F\"\u003ESummerland Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers debatably four-star accommodation, including a restaurant and\ntour services, while the others are more basic. Outside the city, tents and\neco-campsites are the law of the land. Even in Hadibu, the Adeeb eco-camp is\noften the preferred lodging option. Most gear (snorkels, tents, etc) can be\nrented through tour operators or on site. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EPublic transportation is virtually non-existent, so most travellers\neither trek on foot or hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle and driver. Transport,\nalong with the shuttling of luggage, full-service camping (complete with meals)\nand a guide, can be included in most tour packages or arranged separately. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra-1"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2013-05-10T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Stepping back in time in Socotra","headlineShort":"Stepping back in time in Socotra","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As visitors flock to see the Yemen island’s Candyland-like features, the increase in tourism is both helping to ease poverty and straining traditional ways of life.","summaryShort":"A culture preserved by centuries of isolation","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2013-05-09T19:59:28Z","entity":"article","guid":"293219a2-32af-441a-846e-137157cc4bb9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T21:44:39.425126Z","project":"travel","slug":"20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","_id":"616ff71c45ceed6c8e772132","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen German archaeologist Klaus Schmidt first began excavating on a Turkish mountaintop 25 years ago, he was convinced the buildings he uncovered were unusual, even unique.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAtop a limestone plateau near Urfa called Gobekli Tepe, Turkish for \"Belly Hill\", Schmidt discovered more than 20 circular stone enclosures. The largest was 20m across, a circle of stone with two elaborately carved pillars 5.5m tall at its centre. The carved stone pillars – eerie, stylised human figures with folded hands and fox-pelt belts – weighed up to 10 tons. Carving and erecting them must have been a tremendous technical challenge for people who hadn't yet domesticated animals or invented pottery, let alone metal tools. The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures, built not for shelter but for some other purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a decade of work, Schmidt reached a remarkable conclusion. When I visited his dig house in Urfa's old town in 2007, Schmidt – then working for the German Archaeological Institute – told me Gobekli Tepe could help rewrite the story of civilisation by explaining the reason humans started farming and began living in permanent settlements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stone tools and other evidence Schmidt and his team found at the site showed that the circular enclosures had been built by hunter-gatherers, living off the land the way humans had since before the last Ice Age. Tens of thousands of animal bones that were uncovered were from wild species, and there was no evidence of domesticated grains or other plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought these hunter-gatherers had come together 11,500 years ago to carve Gobekli Tepe's T-shaped pillars with stone tools, using the limestone bedrock of the hill beneath their feet as a quarry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site and hilltop near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarving and moving the pillars would have been a tremendous task, but perhaps not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The pillars are carved from the natural limestone layers of the hill's bedrock. Limestone is soft enough to work with the flint or even wood tools available at the time, given practice and patience. And because the hill's limestone formations were horizontal layers between 0.6m and 1.5m thick, archaeologists working at the site believe ancient builders just had to cut away the excess from the sides, rather than from underneath as well. Once a pillar was carved out, they then shifted it a few hundred metres across the hilltop, using rope, log beams and ample manpower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious sercret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETurkey's mysterious portal to the universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought that small, nomadic bands from across the region were motivated by their beliefs to join forces on the hilltop for periodic building projects, hold great feasts and then scatter again. The site, Schmidt argued, was a ritual centre, perhaps some sort of burial or death cult complex, rather than a settlement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was a big claim. Archaeologists had long thought complex ritual and organised religion were luxuries that societies developed only once they began domesticating crops and animals, a transition known as the Neolithic. Once they had a food surplus, the thinking went, they could devote their extra resources to rituals and monuments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGobekli Tepe, Schmidt told me, turned that timeline upside down. The stone tools at the site, backed up by radiocarbon dates, placed it firmly in the pre-Neolithic era. More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals. And Schmidt didn't think anyone lived at the site full-time. He called it a \"cathedral on a hill\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf that was true, it showed that complex ritual and social organisation actually came before settlement and agriculture. Over the course of 1,000 years, the demands of gathering nomadic bands together in one place to carve and move huge T-pillars and build the circular enclosures prompted people to take the next step: to regularly host large gatherings, people needed to make food supplies more predictable and dependable by domesticating plants and animals. Ritual and religion, it seemed, launched the Neolithic Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, I drove with Schmidt to the hilltop before dawn. I wandered, mystified and awestruck, among the pillars as Schmidt, his head wrapped in a white cloth to protect it from the blazing sun, oversaw a small team of German archaeologists and workers from the small village down the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESchmidt had just published his first reports on Gobekli Tepe the year before, setting the small world of Neolithic archaeology experts abuzz. But the site still had a sleepy, forgotten feel, with excavation areas covered by makeshift corrugated steel roofs and potholed dirt roads winding up to the mountaintop dig site from the valley below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt's take on the site's striking T-pillars and large, round \"special buildings\" captivated colleagues and journalists when they were first published in the mid-2000s. Breathless media reports called the site the birthplace of religion; the German magazine Der Spiegel compared the fertile grasslands around the site to the Garden of Eden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoon, people from around the world were flocking to see Gobekli Tepe for themselves. Within a decade, the hilltop was totally transformed. Until the civil war in nearby Syria disrupted tourism in the region in 2012, work on the site often slowed to a crawl as busloads of curious tourists crowded around open excavation trenches to see what some were calling the world's first temple and made it impossible to manoeuvre wheelbarrows on the narrow paths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past five years, the mountaintop on the outskirts of Urfa has been reshaped once again. Today, roads and car parks and a visitor's centre can accommodate curious travellers from around the world. In 2017, corrugated steel sheds were replaced by a state-of-the art, swooping fabric-and-steel shelter covering the central monumental buildings. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\"\u003EŞanlıurfa Archaeology and Mosaic Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built in 2015 in central Urfa, is one of Turkey's largest museums; it features a full-scale replica of the site's largest enclosure and its imposing T-pillars, allowing visitors to get a feel for the monumental pillars and examine their carvings up close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Gobekli Tepe was added to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1572\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage register\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and Turkish tourism officials declared 2019 the \"Year of Gobekli Tepe\", making the ancient site the face of its global promotion campaign. \"I still remember the site as a remote place on a mountaintop,\" said Jens Notroff, a German Archaeological Institute archaeologist who began working at the site as a student in the mid-2000s. \"It's changed completely.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Detail of animal sculpture at the Göbekli Tepe archaeological site","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt, who died in 2014, didn't live to see the site's transformation from dusty mountaintop dig to major tourist attraction. But his discoveries there spurred global interest in the Neolithic transition – and in the last few years, new discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site itself. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWork on foundations needed to support the site's swooping fabric canopy required archaeologists to dig deeper that Schmidt ever had. Under the direction of Schmidt's successor, Lee Clare, a German Archaeological Institute team dug several \"keyhole\" trenches down to the site's bedrock, several metres below the floors of the large buildings. \"We had a unique chance,\" Clare said, \"to go look in the lowest layers and deposits of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"New discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhat Clare and his colleagues found may rewrite prehistory yet again. The digs revealed evidence of houses and year-round settlement, suggesting that Gobekli Tepe wasn't an isolated temple visited on special occasions but a rather a thriving village with large special buildings at its centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe team also identified a large cistern and channels for collecting rainwater, key to supporting a settlement on the dry mountaintop, and thousands of grinding tools for processing grain for cooking porridge and brewing beer. \"Gobekli Tepe is still a unique, special site, but the new insights fit better with what we know from other sites,\" Clare said. \"It was a fully-fledged settlement with permanent occupation. It's changed our whole understanding of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003ETurkish archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E working in the rugged countryside around Urfa have identified at least a dozen other hill-top sites with similar – if smaller – T-pillars, dating from around the same time period. \"It's not a unique temple,\" said Austrian Archaeological Institute researcher Barbara Horejs, an expert on the Neolithic who was not part of the recent research efforts. \"That makes the story much more interesting and exciting.\" Turkish Culture and Tourism Minister Mehmet Nuri Ersoy went as far as saying that this area could be referred to as the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003Epyramids of south-east Turkey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERather than a centuries-long building project inspiring the transition to farming, Clare and others now think Gobekli Tepe was an attempt by hunter-gatherers clinging to their vanishing lifestyle as the world changed around them. Evidence from the surrounding region shows people at other sites were experimenting with domesticated animals and plants – a trend the people of \"Belly Hill\" might have been resisting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClare argues the site's stone carvings are an important clue. Elaborate carvings of foxes, leopards, serpents and vultures covering Gobekli Tepe's pillars and walls \"aren't animals you see every day,\" he said. \"They're more than just pictures, they're narratives, which are very important in keeping groups together and creating a shared identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I first wandered across the site more than 15 years ago, I remember a feeling of great distance. Gobekli Tepe was built 6,000 years before Stonehenge, and the exact meaning of its carvings – like the world the people there once inhabited – is impossible to fathom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat, of course, is part of the Gobekli Tepe's tremendous magnetism. As thousands of visitors marvel at a place most people had never heard of a decade ago, researchers will continue trying to understand why it was built in the first place. And each new discovery promises to change what we now know about the site and the story of human civilisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The new work isn't destroying Klaus Schmidt's thesis; it stands on his shoulders,\" said Horejs. \"There's been a huge gain of knowledge, in my view. The interpretation is changing, but that's what science is about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-16T21:51:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An immense mystery older than Stonehenge","headlineShort":"An immense mystery 11,000 years old","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.2232","longitude":"38.9224","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","summaryShort":"It has reshaped previous ideas on the story of civilisation","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-15T21:52:56.195374Z","entity":"article","guid":"da2379c5-f167-40ee-bf15-174c2b59c7e4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:12:40.479067Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","_id":"616ff63245ceed08ca0a457e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fulrike-lemmin-woolfrey"],"bodyIntro":"Constructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping through Bab-al-Yaman, the enormous gate allowing access into Yemen's old walled city of Sana'a, was like stepping through a portal into another world. Tall, skinny buildings were crammed into the narrow lanes that connected lush fruit and vegetable gardens with the ancient souq where donkeys are still sold. I saw locksmiths mending enormous metal keys that open imposing wooden doors; a vendor selling prickly pears from a cart, and the local baker pulling fresh bread from a hot-glowing hole in the ground. In a tiny room, a camel trudged in tight circles powering a millstone crushing sesame seeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut despite all the visual stimulus, it was the architecture that dominated the scene.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESana'a is filled with buildings unlike anywhere else in the world. At street level, where mud-brick walls are only broken up by large wooden doors, there was often not much to see. But when I looked up, I realised these slender buildings, some with just one or two rooms to a floor, soared high into the sky. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the lower floors, at street level, were windowless due to their use as animal shelters or working spaces, the ornate windows higher up were either covered by stained-glass or by delicate \u003Cem\u003Emashrabiya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E screens screens protecting the privacy of the women inside. The window frames and the friezes between the floors were marked in intricate white lime to contrast the mud-coloured background, creating a gingerbread house effect. Many had rooftop terraces, which doubled as entertainment spaces as well as outdoor bedrooms on warm nights. The magnificence of the buildings, together with their simple practicality, made for an inspiring architectural vision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the alleyway, it was practically impossible to appreciate the true height of these buildings, but when I reached the souq, I could see that some were up to seven storeys high. I climbed up to a seventh-floor rooftop that had been converted into a cafe; the Old Town lay below me, but the neighbouring buildings were mostly as tall as the one I was on, evoking the strange sensation of being surrounded by skyscrapers. I could almost have been in Dubai or New York, only that these constructions were somewhere between 300 and 500 years old and built from mud. Some of Yemen's skyscrapers can reach up to around 30m in height, and the first modern skyscrapers in Chicago were only slightly taller than that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xnjgd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two women in traditional clothing in the old town of Sana'a, Yemen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYemen is scattered with similar soaring constructions, from those in smaller villages to bigger towns, such as the famous Shibam, dubbed in the 1930s \"The Manhattan of the Desert\" by Anglo-Italian explorer Dame Freya Stark; or the exquisitely decorated Dar-al-Hajar, the Imam's Palace of the Rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Yemeni skyscraper style of architecture is so unique that the cities of Zabid, Shibam and the Old City of Sana'a have been recognised as Unesco World Heritage sites, with the tradition dating at least to the 8th and 9th Centuries, according to Trevor Marchand, professor of social anthropology at London's School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cambridge.org\u002Fcore\u002Fjournals\u002Fjournal-of-the-royal-asiatic-society\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Farchitectural-heritage-of-yemen-buildings-that-fill-my-eye-edited-by-trevor-h-j-marchand-foreword-by-shaykh-mohamed-bin-issa-aljaber-pp-231-london-gingko-library-2017\u002F14EF802062E1D913620BFDEABFD29A8B\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchitectural Heritage of Yemen - Buildings That Fill My Eye\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Exact dating is next to impossible, as these mud brick or adobe buildings need to be constantly patched up and restored to keep them from succumbing to the harsh elements, but \"medieval sources tell us that the Ghumdam Palace in Sana'a, allegedly built in the 3rd Century BC and the seat of Yemen's ancient Sabaean rulers, was 20 storeys high and elaborately decorated,\" Marchand said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStepping back in time in Socotra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn immense mystery 11,000 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat makes the Yemeni skyscrapers so unique is that they are still in use, just as they were hundreds of years ago. In the Old Town of Sana'a, for example, while a few have been converted into hotels and cafes, the majority are still used as private residences. \"As children, we would play soccer in the tight alleyways and as teens we would sip coffee under the bright stained glass,\" said Arwa Mokdad, peace advocate for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyemenfoundation.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen Relief and Reconstruction Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I travelled around the country, marvelling at these skyscaper cities, I could not help but wonder why the Yemenis built these high-rises, considering the vast desert expanses of their country. Salma Samar Damluji, architect and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachette.com.au\u002Fsalma-samar-damluji\u002Fthe-architecture-of-yemen-its-reconstruction\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Architecture of Yemen and its Reconstruction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E told me that construction was, in fact, traditionally restricted to small sites, meaning buildings needed to be vertical. \"Towns and cities had an outer wall, called Sur, and a further boundary from the desert,\" she said, explaining that not only were the wall and the surrounding desert a barrier to any urban development, but any agriculturally viable space was deemed too valuable to build on, so that building upwards, in tightly formed clusters, was the preferred option.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was also the need for protection that made Yemen's settlements huddle together rather than sprawl across the land. Living in an inhospitable desert, security and the ability to look out across the land for approaching enemies, together with the ability to lock the cities' gates at night, had to be considered in any town planning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xnjg3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Palace of Dar al-Haja, Yemen","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"An important contributing factor to Yemen's history of tower-house was the need for security against invading forces, as well as during times of local tribal dispute or civil war,\" Marchand explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConstructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate. Roof terraces double as open-air bedrooms, while screens on the windows invite even the slightest breeze to enter the house, while also allowing light but not too much heat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Unbaked earth is an exceptional thermal mass,\" added Ronald Rael, professor of architecture at UC Berkeley who specialises in buildings made from mud, and is himself living in his great grandfather's adobe house in southern Colorado. He explained that \"it both absorbs and releases heat slowly. During the day, as the sun beats upon the wall, the heat from the sun slowly absorbs into the wall. As night falls, that heat is slowly released, [helping] earthen buildings remain a comfortable temperature.\" This simple natural effect has made adobe building still popular today and explains the endurance of Yemen's mud-architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, construction usually didn't use scaffolding. Instead, master builders would start with a stone foundation, often some 2m deep, upon which mud bricks were laid in a running bond, meaning one brick is overlapped by two above. They then slowly built upwards, placing wooden joists for strength and adding floors made from wood and palm materials as they went higher up. Scaffolding was generally only used at a later date, once the house was finished and needed replastering or restoration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, according to Damluji, these building skills are on the brink of extinction. \"We are looking at structures that can stand for up to 300 years and more. Six and seven storey buildings built out of sun-dried mud brick in a way that no contemporary architect can build today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xnjfs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A city of skyscrapers in the middle of Hadramaut valley, Shibam, Yemen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo prevent this knowledge from being lost, Damluji works closely with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dawanarchitecturefoundation.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDawan Architecture Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is striving to preserve these methods of building, encouraging the use of traditional materials and methods over modern convenience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I cannot begin to describe the pride of living in a home preserved by generations of ancestors – they are our connection to the past","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe historical buildings are also under threat from constant wind erosion, war and the economic struggles that prevent families from looking after their fragile homes properly. In 2020, Unesco surveyed some 8,000 of these architectural marvels and restored 78 that were on the brink of collapse. Unesco is doing its utmost to save as many buildings as possible, but it is difficult under the current circumstances.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is a harrowing experience to witness history turn into rubble,\" said Mokdad. \"This destruction is a loss for all of humanity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"Anywhere else, these buildings would be museum pieces, but in Yemen they remain homes. I cannot begin to describe the pride of living in a home preserved by generations of ancestors – they are our connection to the past.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-05T05:57:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Yemen's ancient, soaring skyscraper cities","headlineShort":"Yemen's ancient skyscraper cities","image":["p09xnjgm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mud houses in Sanaa in Yemen","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"15.3694","longitude":"44.1910","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mud houses in Sanaa in Yemen","promoImage":["p09xnjgm"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Constructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate.","summaryShort":"Incredibly, construction usually didn't use scaffolding","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-04T19:55:26.926242Z","entity":"article","guid":"901297cb-8d9c-4b80-a06d-8a068643e471","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-05T12:56:30.904639Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","_id":"616ff69c45ceed540c683865","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Bangladesh, natural disasters seem to be the only constant. Living with such unpredictability means that resilience and adaptability have become the nation's default settings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the highland hinterlands of subtropical Sylhet, a city in north-eastern Bangladesh known for its lush tea gardens, getting to school requires more than just waking up on time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I remember we used to cross a bridge and it got washed away every other year,\" said Dr Monjour Mourshed, professor of sustainable engineering at Cardiff University who grew up in Bangladesh. \"We [the village children] were used to it; we'd just find a different path.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what's more fascinating than the constantly altering school route is the calmness with which he acknowledged it. Mourshed's experience is the norm, not the exception, as Sylhet's geomorphology is subject to frequent change. \"A mound of land in the floodplain of the Surma River... Sylhet inhabits nature-on-the-move,\" writes Dr \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsouthasiajournal.net\u002Fauthor\u002Fdavid\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDavid Ludden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, professor of history at New York University and former president of the Association for Asian Studies, in a 2003 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstor.org\u002Fstable\u002F4414346?read-now=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A76ce3e6e158f309757695ce1a911552c&seq=2#page_scan_tab_contents\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that underscores the temporal nature of the landscape. \"Tectonic shifts continue to lift the highlands and depress the deepest-flooding 'haor' basins [large, shallow, saucer-shaped depressions]... Thumping earthquakes periodically destabilise water's established pathways.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBangladesh as a whole is \"nature-on-the-move\", its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fworld-of-change\u002FPadmaRiver\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efluid geography\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the result of one of the most dynamic and extensive river networks in the world. The deltaic nation is literally a by-product of the rivers' processes:\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencemag.org\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002F03\u002Fsea-levels-rise-bangladeshi-islanders-must-decide-between-keeping-water-out-or-letting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E a giant sandbox\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created by millennia of alluvial deposits by the ever-flowing waters of the mighty Brahmaputra-Jamuna, Padma (the Ganges) and Meghna rivers. Approximately 80% of the nation consists of floodplains, and a new island – Bhasan Char, now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55177688\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe controversial home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of thousands of Rohingya refugees – was formed by enormous loads of Himalayan silt from the Meghna River in the past 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWater, and reverence for its creative and destructive powers, is so intrinsic to the nation that the Jatiyo Sangshad Bhaban (the Bangladesh National Parliament building) in Dhaka is surrounded on three sides by an artificially constructed lake as testimony to the country’s riverine beauty. But the stunning monument, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnijhoom.com\u002Fdhaka-tourist-attractions\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea popular attraction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has been called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farchitectuul.com\u002Farchitecture\u002Fnational-assembly-building-of-bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the greatest architectural achievements of the 20th Century\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, holds deeper cultural symbolism, according to Khondker Neaz Rahman, who has worked with the Bangladesh government and United Nations Development Programme on urban and regional planning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In Bangladesh, we see water as a sacred purifying element,\" he said. \"Water purifies you during ablution as a Muslim. If you are Hindu, your house is sprinkled with Ganga water. Buddhists cross a bridge or place a fountain in their space of meditation.\" He explained that crossing over water before entering the supreme legislative body is believed to create a conducive mindset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWater and nature are inextricable from life in the small but densely populated nation – perhaps understandably so. \"Look out the window when your plane crosses Bangladesh during monsoon,\" urged Rahman, \"You won't see rivers interrupting land. Our country is the space between rivers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd life, it seems, is lived out in the space between extreme events of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the past three decades, Bangladesh has braved more than 200 natural disasters, by some estimates. Its location at the triangular head of the Bay of Bengal, low-lying topography, susceptibility to tropical cyclones andvulnerability to floods is worsened by population density and rapid urbanisation. Its extreme \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef.org\u002Fpress-releases\u002Fclimate-change-threatens-lives-and-futures-over-19-million-children-bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evulnerability to climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E creates droughts at one end and erratic rainfall on the other; floodplain sediments may experience liquefaction during earthquakes; and salinity intrusion poses an existential threat to agriculture and available drinking water. Travellers will see navigable waterway networks serving as default (and sometimes, primary) methods of transportation, often crowded with both modern ferries and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20151103-a-romantic-window-into-a-half-drowned-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehistorical paddlewheel steamers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called Rockets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20201201-bangladesh-the-devastating-floods-essential-for-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation learning to embrace flooding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn island of hope rising from the ocean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOne country's endless war against water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, nearly 40% of the nation was submerged by floods, leaving \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fus-news\u002Fcommentisfree\u002F2020\u002Fsep\u002F22\u002Fclimate-change-action-bangladesh-paris-agreemen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1.5 million Bangladeshis displaced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This was almost in conjunction with super cyclone Amphan in May, which cost an estimated $13.2bn in damage. Sayda Yesmin, chief executive of the NGO Association For Alternative Development (AFAD), works with families in the flood-ravaged district of Kurigram in northern Bangladesh. \"It's the fifth time they've been displaced,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, they rebuild. Displaced but not disillusioned, Bangladeshis seem to acknowledge – perhaps even appreciate – the duality and complexity of nature. Learning to live in harmony with natural disasters is anancient preoccupation and visitors will be mesmerised by poignant, generations-old \u003Cem\u003EBhatiyali\u003C\u002Fem\u003E folk songs both romanticising and reckoning with life on the river. \"\u003Cem\u003ENaai ko dauriaar paari\u002FShaabdhaane chaalaaiyo maajhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" (The river has no limits\u002FSteer it most cautiously, boatman) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.movedbylove.org\u002Fprojects\u002Ftunes\u002F265\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproclaims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E one of the most iconic songs of the genre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Disasters are always man made,\" said Rahman, \"They can never be natural. When we meddle with nature without understanding it and do something wrong, we blame nature.\" In Bangladesh, there seems to be an innate acknowledgement of the overwhelming power of nature’s force and man’s need to live in tandem with its whims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Approximately 80% of the nation consists of floodplains","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome experts believe Bangladeshis' adaptability and resiliency comes from their unpredictable terrain. \"I have this wild theory: geography shapes people's psyche and ethos,\" said Dr Shafiul Azam Ahmad, water and sanitation specialist at the Water and Sanitation Program, World Bank, from 2000-2008, international consultant for the World Bank from 2015-2016 and now a freelance regional consultant for Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Nepal. \"When one bank of a river tumbles under the surging floodwater, another shoal rises on the opposite side. Flora and fauna revive with new vigour soon after. And so do people. You cannot battle against mighty rivers, but you can be resilient and coexist with nature's vagaries.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERinita Rezwana, a Dhaka resident, spoke with quiet dignity when I called her following the 2020 flood, bracing myself for what I thought would be a tragic exchange. To my surprise, I could almost hear her smile through the phone. \"My people are resilient, Aysha,\" she said, \"Villagers make bridges to stay connected to the mainland. Unused bales of fodder or straw become stepping-stones... There's lots of bamboo, so they build 'stilts' for their homes, [known as] a \u003Cem\u003Emacha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or raised refuge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese resilient houses dotting Bangladesh's terrain, built using materials like timber and bamboo, embody the fluidity of life. They're sometimes built in the wake of a disaster, as the wet season, when materials can be transported by boat, heralds a flurry of building. Until recently, houses had small ponds next to them, the excavated soil used to raise the house and the pond serving as a water reservoir for droughts. And a centuries-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=CONfhrASy44\"\u003Efloating-farm-bed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E technique using hyacinth plants increases arable land while allowing farmers to cultivate crops throughout the rainy season. The beds rise and fall with the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of Bangladeshi resilience is steeped in this understanding of nature being larger than all of us and working with – not against – it. Hasin Jahan, country director of the NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wateraid.org\u002Fbd\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaterAid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, explained how communities naturally adapt to confront crises. \"When you know it's inevitable, you plan for it, don't you?\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor example, households typically keep red bricks indoors, which are used to quickly elevate beds during floods. Portable stoves, she said, are popular because families use them to cook when they seek shelter in the highlands. Indigenous methods including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=CGNFBws3B3A\"\u003Epuffing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=n4C0nhHxYqs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eflattening\u003C\u002Fa\u003E rice and making \u003Cem\u003Eshutki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dried fish) preserve energy-dense food for the lean season. And \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.npr.org\u002Fsections\u002Fgoatsandsoda\u002F2018\u002F09\u002F12\u002F646378073\u002Ffloating-schools-make-sure-kids-get-to-class-when-the-water-rises\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efloating schools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bring education to students' doorsteps when they are marooned in flood-prone areas. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shidhulai.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esame non-profit organisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that created schools on water operates a fleet of floating libraries and clinics. Despite being one of the most vulnerable nations, it's one of the most resourceful and resilient, as evidenced by a finding from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ufz.de\u002Fexport\u002Fdata\u002F2\u002F80332_Akter_and_Mallick_2013_webversion.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresearch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the Helmholtz Centre for Environmental Research-UFZ in Germany that explores the nexus between vulnerability, poverty and resilience in Bangladesh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Bangladeshi resilience isn't stoicism and perennially rebuilding alone. Robust community-led disaster response mechanisms are emblematic of Bangladesh \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fsnnetwork.org\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002Fdfid_defining_disaster_resilience.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebouncing back better\u003C\u002Fa\u003E post-disaster. Since the 1970s, Mourshed explained, the nation has invested heavily in efficient early warning systems that are socially, not technologically, driven. \"It's the imam in the mosque, the school headmaster, the local government – authority figures the community trusts – who'll fan out on bicycles, rickshaws or even on foot, often with battery-operated megaphones,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Essentially, resilience is a function of time,\" continued Mourshed. He explained that schools in Bangladesh, which are regularly converted to cyclone shelters, are wonderful examples of resilient structures because the building is swiftly back in use and multiple uses for the same structure increase the return on investment. And when the shelter is the children's school, families already know the quickest route to reach it. \"It's like an emergency response drill every day,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMourshed recently reviewed a common resilience plan for Bangladesh and noticed modern innovation is now being integrated with indigenous knowledge. \"They're using more durable materials like RCC [reinforced cement concrete]; the structure may survive even if the partitions get blown away,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut artificially building resilience requires striking an elusive balance, he cautioned. For instance, a tin roof may provide protection from cyclones but increase temperatures on the inside, whereas traditional thatched roofs have \u003Cspan\u003Ehigher thermal performance\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E. \"With imminent global warming, infrastructure needs to be designed not just for today, but for the future,\" he said, \"And indigenous knowledge must be embedded.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps, then, the entrenched Bangladeshi tradition of designing life in harmony with the cadences of nature is ahead of its time. Disruption has been and still is so normal that Mourshed's school calendar reflected it. \"We had school holidays around the floods to minimise loss [of school days]. We called it the fruits and harvest break,\" he said, \"But it wasn't just summer break. It was a chance to enjoy nature's bounty.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Bangladesh knows, nature's bounty comes in many forms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-22T20:24:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A tenacious nation built on shape-shifting land","headlineShort":"A nation submerged under endless water","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Bangladesh, natural disasters seem to be the only constant. Living with such unpredictability means that resilience and adaptability have become the nation's default settings.","summaryShort":"In 2020, nearly 40% of the nation was submerged by floods","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-02-21T20:31:10.919969Z","entity":"article","guid":"48e8747c-c3d5-4a87-8729-614a4a2659ca","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:03:57.688882Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water","_id":"616ff63e45ceed2979465ffd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When nearly a quarter of your nation lies below sea level and another half sits less than a metre above, its very existence is under constant attack.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy mom and I caught our first glimpses of the Netherlands while driving to Rotterdam from the airport. Some sights were exactly as we’d imagined: the traditional windmills, humble constructions of brick and wood; the wide open spaces, unfolding flat and evenly; the bright colours. But then we spotted something curious. Among the patchwork of earth, there was a strip of water that rose higher than the grassy stretch beside it. It appeared as if the liquid might spill over, but it didn't. Confounding the eye and holding everything in place was a levee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis was our introduction to the Netherlands’ relationship with water: a complicated balance of inviting it in and keeping it out. It was our initial indication, too, that the country’s vast system of windmills, canals, ditches, dikes, dams and dunes isn’t just for aesthetics or utility – it’s a full-blown national security strategy. When nearly a quarter of your nation lies below sea level and another half sits less than a metre above, its very existence is under constant attack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELen Verdel, a sailing enthusiast studying business administration, remembers what it was like to grow up below sea level. His home near \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fontwikkelingzuidplaspolder.nl\u002F\"\u003EZuidplaspolder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the lowest point in the Netherlands, was surrounded by water and connected by a bridge to the mainland. “During heavy rain, the water level in the polder would rise,” he said. “Sometimes the water rose so much that the terrace flooded. We would ask my father: ‘What happens when the water rises even more? What do we do if the dike breaks?’”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs climate change carries on and sea levels rise, the Netherlands’ future is uncertain. Two-thirds of the country is at risk of flooding. Half of its people currently live on land threatened to be under water by the end of the century. And when measured by population percentage, it’s the world’s most endangered nation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe situation sounds bleak, but the Netherlands’ flood defence network is robust and broadly supported. More than 300 institutions, organizations and boards work together to devise comprehensive plans, continually assessing their effectiveness and keeping residents informed of their progress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"700\" src=\"\u002F\u002Fwww.thinglink.com\u002Fcard\u002F751119807042027520\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There is a strong realization that we have to do it together,” said Chris Zevenbergen, chair of the Flood Resilience Group of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unesco-ihe.org\u002F\"\u003EUnesco-IHE Institute for Water Education\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “There is a continuous effort to keep our feet dry, to keep our country safe. I think that is a bit at the heart of the Dutch people and in their DNA.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn our second day in the Netherlands, the Hiltermanns – the Dutch couple that fostered me many years ago when I was an orphan – took us to see \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kinderdijk.com\u002F\"\u003EKinderdijk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the World Heritage site of 19 windmills scattered a bit east of Rotterdam. Groups of bicyclers pedalled from idyllic windmill to idyllic windmill, rolling down reed-lined paths and over bridges that spanned lily-padded pools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped at a windmill to look inside, climbing up a steep and narrow stairway to the tiny quarters of the traditional millers who once lived there. From a small streaked window, I watched the mill’s sails spin round and round, the whip and the whirl absorbing my thoughts into a rhythmic white noise. On our way out, I saw a tired-looking man in canary clogs and a navy jumpsuit, likely a volunteer whose role it was to demonstrate for tourists how the windmill once operated. He made me wonder how gruelling it must have been for his predecessors to set and reset the sails each time the weather fluctuated, to pump an endless cycle of water to stay safe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the winter of 1953, the most haunting flood in the history of the Netherlands struck without warning, killing more than 1,800 people and displacing another 70,000. As the storm, named Watersnoodramp, brewed in the night, the sleeping residents did not know the sea levels were rising all around them. With no local radio stations broadcasting and most weather stations closed, people could not prepare. The dikes were overwhelmed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnnerie Houterman, an accounting firm manager living in Amsterdam, has always been keenly aware of this fact; her mother was born in the year of Watersnoodramp. To her family – and to everyone else in the Netherlands – the flood was so traumatic that it has become a way to measure time, marking births and deaths, dividing lifespans and generations. “People live with the sea as if it is their backyard, but they also think it is unacceptable that it takes lives,” she said. “It is essential to life, but also cunning. It creeps up on you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Dutch are resolved to never again be taken by surprise, proactively developing plans that reach a century or more into the future. One such plan is the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.deltacommissaris.nl\u002Fdelta-programme\"\u003EDelta Programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annually updated strategy that will implement even stronger standards for dike heights in 2016. At the same time, we’ll see the completion of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ruimtevoorderivier.nl\u002Fenglish\u002F\"\u003ERoom for the River\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a project that began in 2006 to provide space for rivers to flood safely at 30 locations across the country. Initiatives like these are working: since Watersnoodramp, there’s been no significant flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe day before our last in the Netherlands, the Hiltermanns show us \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.deltawerken.com\u002F\"\u003EDeltawerken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the flood defence system that emerged from the tragedy of Watersnoodramp. In Zeeland, where the North Sea meets the river estuaries, Deltawerken’s retractable storm surge barriers are designed to close in emergency conditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the development of this project has come tourist interest, and the area now includes a water park, aquarium, shows and exhibits. However, the defence system – a collection of concrete so huge it took more than 50 years to complete – is the thing to see. It’s been designated one of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ce.memphis.edu\u002F1101\u002Finteresting_stuff\u002F7wonders.html\"\u003ESeven Wonders of the Modern World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I ascended the massive structure and looked down: the water rushed below, free to flow today but ready to be stopped whenever the future demands it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey say God created the world, but the Dutch created the Netherlands. In fighting the flood waters again and again, the people have defined and redefined their nation’s borders. This struggle has been epic and endless, and its allegory is reflected in the Dutch ethos and psyche. It’s not surprising, then, that so many Dutch people cannot fathom who they’d be without it. “Water is connected to so many stories, memories and events that it automatically ties into my identity,” Houterman said. “Water is almost the constant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the days between our visits to Kinderdijk and Deltawerken, my mom and I witnessed this Dutch love for the water again and again – as we floated past sweethearts in boats along Amsterdam’s canals, as we revelled in ragtime music beside Leiden’s waterways, as we dined table-to-table with strangers celebrating family and friendship on Utrecht’s wharfs. We saw sailboats, houseboats and restaurant boats, where water rooted life as securely as any ground. One boat said “Just Married”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the Netherlands, the vast drifting space between a set of dualities is complex, edged by comforts and threats, blessings and curses. It is a people’s deepest love and greatest fear. In this space, the Dutch live their life to the fullest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water-19"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-02-04T17:09:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"One country’s endless war against water","headlineShort":"One country’s endless war against water","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When nearly a quarter of your nation lies below sea level and another half sits less than a metre above, its very existence is under constant attack.","summaryShort":"Experience a world where water is both an enemy – and a cherished friend","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2016-02-03T21:16:11.107001Z","entity":"article","guid":"b0fdea7f-6420-4b13-ae52-a772f8cf3655","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:12:21.186214Z","project":"travel","slug":"20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","_id":"616ff65a45ceed2df4114cec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EScattered across the Arabian Sea, south-west of Sri Lanka and India, the Maldives present the face of a dreamy, tropical idyll to travellers from all over the world, who fly in to savour picture-perfect coral atolls fringed with white sand, luxurious resorts and world-class water sport.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps no other nation faces an environmental threat quite like the Maldives. Its luxury beach resorts may be world-famous, but with more than 80% of its scattered 1,200 islands less than 1m above sea level, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fsouth_asia\u002F3930765.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erising oceans threaten its very existence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth and therefore need to adapt,” said the country’s vice president Mohammed Waheed Hassan in a 2010 World Bank \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Ffeature\u002F2010\u002F04\u002F06\u002Fclimate-change-in-the-maldives\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that warned how, at current predicted rates of sea level rise, all of the Maldives’ around 200 natural inhabited islands could be submerged by 2100.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Maldivians are determined to fight back to preserve their existence. Back in 2008, then-president Mohamed Nasheed made global headlines by announcing a plan to buy land elsewhere so his citizens could relocate should islands become submerged. That plan gave way to considering whether it might be best to work with the sea rather than against it, by building floating urban developments – as has been done \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-30412913\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein cities like Amsterdam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, the Maldives turned to a different form of geo-engineering: creating a 21st-Century city, dubbed the “City of Hope”, on a new, artificial island christened Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPre-Covid, curious tourists could visit the new island city as it takes shape around 8km from the capital city of Malé by hopping on a 20-minute bus from the airport over the bridge. Yet, few who come to the Maldives on short luxurious breaks will think about the pragmatic social issues Hulhumalé aims to solve. With more than 500,000 inhabitants scattered across the archipelago, delivery of services is one resource-draining logistical nightmare. Lack of job opportunities is another, driving youth unemployment to more than 15%, according to a 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fcountry\u002Fmaldives\u002Foverview\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the World Bank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as the long-term threat of submersion, increasing coastal erosion also threatens the 70% of infrastructure – homes, other buildings and utilities – located within 100m of present shorelines. There’s also worries over encroaching salty seas tainting precious fresh water sources, plus risks posed by unpredictable natural disasters, like the 2004 tsunami that killed more than 100 people in the Maldives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“After the 2004 tsunami, a programme for enhancing resiliency through safer islands was introduced,” explained Areen Ahmed, director of business development at the Housing Development Corporation (HDC) that oversees the City of Hope. “Hulhumalé is being developed through careful considerations of climate change in its architecture and communities.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOngoing land reclamation using millions of cubic metres of sand pumped from the seabed has raised the new island more than 2m above sea level, while the island’s growing City of Hope is seen as a vital new settlement to relieve the over-crowding that currently blights Malé, where more than 130,000 people cram into 1 square mile (just more than 2.5 sq km).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200628-is-the-future-of-travel-underwater\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs the future of travel underwater?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180905-nanjings-salted-duck-a-dish-fit-for-royaltyhttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150526-a-maldives-you-can-actually-afford\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Maldives you can actually afford\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200614-ascension-island-the-island-with-a-key-to-our-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island with a key to our future\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth,” said Kate Philpot, who worked as a science officer in the Maldives, researching reef fish for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.korallionlab.com\u002Fkorallion-lab\u002Fabout-us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorallion Lab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E marine station, before becoming senior ecologist at UK-based consultancy Ecology By Design.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhase one of Hulhumalé’s land reclamation, consisting of 188 hectares, began in 1997 and was completed in 2002. Two years later, the island celebrated the arrival of its first 1,000 residents. Further reclamation of 244 hectares of land was completed in 2015, and by late 2019, more than 50,000 people were living on Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut ambitions for Hulhumalé are far greater, eventually envisioned as hosting up to 240,000 people in well-designed style by the mid-2020s. This vision includes a diverse mix of quality housing, new employment opportunities plus open recreational space three times larger per person than Malé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Ahmed, in contrast to the unplanned and over-crowded nature of Malé, Hulhumalé was designed with many green urban planning initiatives. “Buildings are oriented north-south to reduce heat gain and improve thermal comfort. Streets are designed to optimise wind penetration, reducing reliance on air conditioning. And schools, mosques and neighbourhood parks are within 100-200m walking distance of residential developments, reducing car use.” Electric buses and bicycle lanes are also part of the new city landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVaried housing needs are also being catered for. “Hulhumalé comprises diverse housing projects: mid-range, luxury and social housing,” said Ahmed. “Sixty percent of mid-range housing units have to be sold under the pricing ceiling set by HDC.” Affordable social housing is available for specific groups, including single women and those affected by displacement and disasters. There has been detailed consultation to ensure housing and the wider built environment is accessible to those with disabilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEnviable digital infrastructure proposals complement green initiatives and social planning, said Ahmed, who describes Hulhumalé as “Asia’s first 100% gigabit-enabled smart city”, with fast digital access for residents based on widespread optical fibre technology known as GPON (Gigabit Passive Optical Networks).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The ultimate benefit of building a Smart City from scratch is that Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives,” said Professor Hassan Ugail, a Maldivian computer scientist who is helping to make Hulhumalé a smart city, alongside his work as director of the Centre for Visual Computing at the UK’s University of Bradford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHulhumalé aims to tick boxes with regard to sustainable urban development too, including drawing around a third of its energy from solar power and harvesting rainwater to boost water security. Yet isn’t the very act of building an artificial island something harmful to the environment – especially in a place famed for coral reefs and pristine white-sand shores?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Belgian company Dredging International completed the 244-hectare expansion of the island in 2015, the operation required sucking around six million cubic metres of sand from the surrounding seabed to then transport and pump onto Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Land reclamation work is particularly problematic,” said Dr Holly East from Northumbria University’s Department of Geography and Environmental Sciences, an expert in coral reef islands with experience conducting research in the Maldives. “Not only can it destroy coral reefs, but [it] also creates vast plumes of sediment that travel to other reef platforms. Sediment smother[s] corals and blocks out sunlight, impacting their capacity to feed, grow and reproduce.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut with its steadily growing population, land reclamation has become a simple fact of Maldivian life, with existing coral reef providing the obvious foundation. “Efforts have been made to reduce impacts of the development of Hulhumalé, including translocation of some corals,” said Philpot. “However, it can take a long time for them to become established elsewhere – and there is often a poor success rate.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet with her years of experience in the Maldives, Philpot is well aware of competing demands. Tourists may come and go, but local people need land to live on and jobs. She also makes the rather ironic observation that Hulhumalé is rising in an area that has already, to some extent, been spoiled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Construction is likely to be less damaging than elsewhere in the Maldives,” she said. “It seems preferable to develop an area with relatively high levels of boat traffic and pollution compared to anywhere else within the Maldives that remains relatively unspoilt.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn this view, she is backed by the World Bank’s 2020 report, which notes “the Greater Malé Region, particularly in Hulhumalé, do not have significant natural habitats – and the coral reefs are mostly degraded”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWaste disposal remains a key issue – both in terms of construction waste for Hulhumalé, as well as waste from its growing city of inhabitants. “Much of the waste has been transported and stored in the purpose-built island of Thilafushi,” explained Philpot wryly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaldivian authorities counter the idea that this is basically a tropical rubbish dump, albeit rather vaguely. “All measures to minimise the impact of construction on the environment are monitored by the Environment Protection Agency (EPA) of the Maldives,” Ahmed told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Hulhumalé is being fashioned primarily to improve the lives of Maldivians, its City of Hope also aims to be a beacon for a new cohort of tourists interested in more than just lying in a beachside resort bubble. A 2018 World Finance \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldfinance.com\u002Finfrastructure-investment\u002Fhousing-development-corporation-bringing-city-of-hulhumale-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, highlights the potential for medical and sports tourism tied into upcoming projects such as the Maldives’ first multi-specialist hospital, water theme park and yacht marina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhilpot also hopes the dreams driving Hulhumalé will extend to a greater appreciation of their surroundings by the next generation of Maldivians. “I taught coral ecology classes to Maldivian children between [the ages of] 14 and 17 – and more than half my class had never put their faces in the water with a snorkel on,” she said. “Their amazement at what they saw was so exciting – but also sad, that they lived so close to the sea but never got the opportunity to experience being underwater. Perhaps with more direct education aimed at marine biology there would be more interest in preserving and protecting the marine ecosystem amongst the young.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERather than just building a City of Hope, in other words, the people of the Maldives are taking an island-building path into the future that could make the Maldives a Nation of Hope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-world-of-tomorrow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World of Tomorrow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that visits ingenious communities around the world that are adapting to environmental change or who are finding new ways to live sustainably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-10T23:02:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A new island of hope rising from the Indian Ocean","headlineShort":"The nation being swallowed by the sea","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","summaryShort":"One of the most vulnerable countries on Earth has had to adapt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-09-09T22:05:19.007601Z","entity":"article","guid":"844ca032-8f8f-43b8-9da0-0d25a0a21e5d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:51:27.277692Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future","_id":"616ff65545ceed30c97a112a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjack-palfrey"],"bodyIntro":"Settlements that float on water have been touted as a potential solution to Earth's rising sea levels and increasing extreme weather events.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere was a faint drizzle in the afternoon air as I stepped onto the wide, white jetty that marks the boundary of Waterbuurt, Amsterdam's floating neighbourhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the threat of rain, residents, who live in compact, three-storey houses bobbing on a small lake on the Dutch capital's eastern edge, were busy enjoying the afternoon. A mother and daughter dangled fishing rods from their kitchen window while two young boys splashed in the water, taking turns on a swing strung from a bridge. Benches, bikes and barbecues lined the jetty's railings, interspersed every 10m or so by a bright orange life ring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was led on my tour of this unique semi-aquatic community by Ton van Namen, whose company, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.monteflore.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMonteflore\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, masterminded the project. But rather than waxing lyrical about the success of this envelope-pushing development, which now incorporates 100 floating homes, van Namen was more interested in discussing the seemingly endless string of problems that went into creating it. Issues that were once surely a cause of great frustration were now apparently a source of great amusement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Oh, and then there was the issue with the zoning plan,\" van Namen said as we walked the jetty, the afternoon breeze ruffling the sleeves of his blue shirt and tips of his long grey hair. \"Someone wrote all the homes would be a certain height above street level. But of course, here, the homes are going up and down.\" He let out such a roar of laughter that the mother and daughter glanced up from their rods, displeased by this disruption to their watery serenity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt makes sense that the Netherlands is the nation testing the waters when it comes to floating homes, given the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp08hppxt\u002Fhow-the-dutch-are-reshaping-their-post-pandemic-utopia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egreen ethos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171219-the-dutch-city-thats-more-like-dubai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehistory of innovative design\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The country is also the lowest lying in Europe, making sea level rise a very real threat. But it isn't just floating houses the Dutch are experimenting with.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xg580"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Floating reed island on Lake Titicaca with colourful boats and houses","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFifty-five kilometres to the south of Amsterdam, Minke Van Wingerden was leading her herd of dairy cows up a gangway and into their state-of-the-art stables, which sidles up to giant tankers and freight ships in the waters of Rotterdam Dock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The night before [the cows] came, I didn't sleep all night long,\" she said, holding out a palm-full of hay for one of the sepia-splodged dairy cows to munch on, \"but it went so smoothly. They got their sea legs straight away.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA nation built on shape-shifting land\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Dutch war against water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation being swallowed by the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe idea for a floating farm was born after Van Wingerden's partner, Peter, witnessed the disruption Hurricane Sandy caused to New York's transport links and food supplies in 2012, noting how supermarket shelves in Manhattan remained empty days after the disaster. Upon returning to the Netherlands, he and Van Wingerden set out to create a farm that would be climate adaptive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETheir farm, which opened in 2019, is home to 40 cows, who roam between a dock-side meadow and the floating facility – the first of its kind in the world. The farm produces milk, cheese and yoghurt (as well as manure), which travel the short distance to customers via bike or electric van; while waste products from the city supplement the cows' feed, ranging from leftover foodstuff from restaurants to surplus turf from the stadium of local football team, Feyenoord.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our location allows us to produce and sell healthy food right here in the city in a very circular, sustainable way,\" said Van Wingerden, who also has ideas for a floating vegetable farm and even a chicken farm. \"I think there's a big future for floating farms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Our location allows us to produce and sell healthy food right here in the city, in a very circular, sustainable way","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWitnessing the success people in the Netherlands are having both living and farming on the water, it begs the question of whether we'll soon be visiting entire cities that float.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xg57c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Floating houses with boats outside in Ijburg, Amsterdam","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBacked by the UN, US-company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Foceanixcity.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOceanix\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is leading the charge on large-scale floating human habitations, currently developing what it describes as the \"world's first resilient and sustainable floating community for 10,000 residents on 75 hectares\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When it comes to sea levels rising, coastal city decision makers basically have two options,\" said CEO of Oceanix, Marc Collins Chen. \"Build a big wall, which will likely never be tall enough; or look at the latest in engineering, which is floating in place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are building infrastructure that is able to cope with extreme climate events, as well as being highly sustainable","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough labelled as a \"floating city\", what Oceanix is proposing – initially, at least – is more akin to large floating districts; aquatic expansions to overcrowded coastal megacities that are already struggling with rising sea levels, such as Jakarta or Shanghai. These new \"cities\" will be made up of two hectare-wide, buoyant, triangular platforms, each of which is envisioned to be home to 300 people, with additional space for farming and recreation. They can be fastened together to form increasingly expansive settlements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are building infrastructure that is able to cope with extreme climate events, as well as being highly sustainable,\" said Chen. \"We want these settlements to use no fossil fuels. It's all renewable energy, and we're trying to grow 100% of our protein requirements on board.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt all sounds very impressive, but could these floating city expansions become a reality in our lifetimes?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Oh, it's happening,\" said Chen. \"We will see a floating prototype in the next few years. I'm very confident of that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xg55z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cows eating hay on floating farm in Amsterdam","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFloating cities might appear like something straight from the pages of science fiction, but in truth, humans have been living, and farming, on floating habitats for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We have compiled a list of 64 case studies of floating indigenous communities around the world,\" said Julia Watson, a lecturer in design at Harvard University and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.taschen.com\u002Fpages\u002Fen\u002Fcatalogue\u002Farchitecture\u002Fall\u002F04698\u002Ffacts.julia_watson_lotek_design_by_radical_indigenism.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELO-TEK. Design by Radical Indigenism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a book exploring design lessons we can learn from indigenous cultures. \"What's more, these indigenous systems have always been inherently sustainable, something our cities currently are not.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExamples of floating communities can still be found today, such as the cultivated reed islands of the Uru people on Lake Titicaca, on the border of Bolivia and Peru. Floating gardens are more common still, notably in Bangladesh, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-the-remarkable-floating-gardens-of-bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewhere farmers sow seeds on \"rafts\" made out of buoyant weeds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which rise and fall with flood waters following the annual monsoons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESomewhat ironically, it was the construction of large cities that led to the disappearance of many of these aquatic habitations and practices, which are now being touted as the future of urban living.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Europe and China, the development of cities and the filling of wetlands and lakes sadly erased a lot of these technologies,\" said Watson. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in Amsterdam, van Namen was rattling through yet another problem as we stood at the end of Waterbuurt's main jetty, watching one of the residents guide a paddleboard between two floating homes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The floating doubles [semi-detached houses] gave us a real headache. Especially in the beginning, when was one was occupied and the other was not,\" he said, a grin already flickering across his face. \"Now, a normal household has approximately a couple of tonnes of stuff being brought in, so you can imagine there was a lot of these doubles that looked a little... imbalanced.\" Van Namen held his arm at a 45-degree angle to illustrate his point, before slapping his knee at the memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xg536"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Floating vegetable beds in waterlogged soil in Bangladesh","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we made our way back along the jetty to the mainland, I was keen to find out if van Namen, who has experienced the – apparently manifold – pitfalls of working with floating architecture, thinks structures that float on water are destined to become an everyday sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's possible; there are a lot of cities in the world with harbours and ports where you can realise a project more or less like this,\" he said, noting how popular the houses here have proven with residents, and the interest shown in the development by city officials and architect firms around the world. \"And, of course, with all the problems we have with rising water levels it could be a solution,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen he paused.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not \u003Cem\u003Ethe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E solution of course,\" he said, an uncharacteristic sternness falling over his features, \"\u003Cem\u003EThe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E solution is to stop sea levels rising any higher.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnfortunately, that’s one problem not even van Namen can solve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffuture-of-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture of Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that investigates what the world might look like to travellers in the coming years and meets the people living on the frontlines of change.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffuture-of-travel","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2021-10-04T10:28:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Are floating cities our future?","headlineShort":"Why our future may be on the water","image":["p09xg58t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rendering of floating homes in ocean","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.3676","longitude":"4.9041","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Rendering of floating homes in ocean","promoImage":["p09xg58t"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Settlements that float on water have been touted as a potential solution to Earth's rising sea levels and increasing extreme weather events.","summaryShort":"The \"world's first sustainable floating community\" already exists","tag":["tag\u002Feco-tourism"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-03T22:29:13.578608Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0d67117-9e5d-4b97-93e8-7902b9c305a7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-04T12:42:59.090841Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Famsterdam","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fthe-netherlands","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_the-netherlands_amsterdam_europe_the-netherlands_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660801},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","_id":"616ff66445ceed3a496953e9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The sleepy Sussex market town of East Grinstead has gained a reputation in recent decades as a hotbed for offbeat religious activity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt has been described as Britain’s strangest town and the real-life answer to Twin Peaks. But East Grinstead hardly exudes a sense of dreamlike Lynchian terror. Elegant 14th-Century buildings house bookshops and jewellers; butchers hawk burgers and sausages from market stalls; and friends cluster cheerfully outside cafes. The scene is one of pleasant gentility. It all seems so… normal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeneath the surface, however, this otherwise unremarkable Sussex market town is charged with an unlikely religious zeal. A disproportionate number of spiritual organisations have made their home here; some are ancient and some modern, some orthodox and others unconventional. One group in particular has generated more column inches than the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a forested hill to the south-west of town sits Saint Hill Manor, an attractive country house built in 1792 in the Late Georgian style. Saint Hill has had a colourful life, serving variously as the headquarters of a Christian mission and the home of the Maharaja of Jaipur. When the latter moved out in 1959, Saint Hill’s most famous inhabitant moved in: L Ron Hubbard, science fiction writer and founder of the Church of Scientology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe estate served not only as Hubbard’s home but as Scientology’s worldwide headquarters until 1967. It is still owned by the Church, and, as is often the case in its enclaves around the world, zany stories abound. Tom Cruise has visited several times, and is even said to have chosen a wing of Saint Hill Manor as his lockdown sanctuary during the coronavirus pandemic, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tatler.com\u002Farticle\u002Finside-scientologys-swanky-london-hq\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas reported in Tatler\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Fellow A-list Scientologist John Travolta \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hollywoodreporter.com\u002Fnews\u002Fjohn-travolta-snubbed-at-uk-251865\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehit the headlines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2011 when he tried – unsuccessfully – to book a table for his entourage at the local branch of Kentucky Fried Chicken. In 2013, local Sussex newspaper The Argus \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theargus.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002F10479936.ufos-over-scientology-headquarters-in-east-grinstead\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that three airline pilots saw “two saucer shaped silver discs” hovering in the vicinity of Saint Hill – apparently unconnected to nearby Gatwick Airport, where the pilots were coming in to land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s not just Scientology making waves here, though. The mysterious Rosicrucians, a secret society that claims to guard a body of esoteric truths about the universe, maintain a palatial mock-Tudor lodge at nearby Greenwood Gate; while Opus Dei, a Catholic sect famous for wearing spiked chains and hair-shirts as an act of devotional self-mortification, host self-improvement retreats at the attractive Wickenden Manor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELess unconventional, the British home of Mormonism lies a few miles north of East Grinstead at the impressive \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.churchofjesuschrist.org\u002Ftemples\u002Fdetails\u002Flondon-england-temple?lang=eng\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon England Temple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while Jehovah’s Witnesses and Christian Scientists have also set up shop in town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlternative ways of thinking start early in life around here. The Michael Hall School in nearby Forest Row was the first example in Britain of a Waldorf school, where pupils are taught based on Rudolf Steiner’s spiritual concept of anthroposophy, with a curriculum that focuses on emotional and artistic development. The area’s bevy of biodynamic farms, which use progressive composting preparations such as cow’s skulls stuffed with oak bark and quartz, are also based on Steiner’s teachings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tiny 'nation' of British eccentricity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe eerie remains of a drowned village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200722-britains-newly-discovered-ancient-sites\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's newly discovered ancient sites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the south of East Grinstead, a Battenberg blanket of neat green fields gives way to the hazel, chestnut and oak trees of Ashdown Forest. The forest is most famous as the inspiration and setting for Winnie the Pooh, whose creator, AA Milne, lived on the northern fringes of the woods and would walk there with his son, Christopher Robin. Milne’s legacy lives on here – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gps-routes.co.uk\u002Froutes\u002Fhome.nsf\u002FRoutesLinksWalks\u002Fpooh-sticks-bridge-walking-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPooh Sticks Bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, runs across a stream in the woods and is the place where the author invented the eponymous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-34055084\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPoohsticks game\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his son – but Ashdown Forest harbours stranger, more intriguing secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhisperings of Wiccan rituals and druid gatherings in the woods are commonplace. “Druids and other pagans are sometimes to be found within the henges of the Scots pine groves at the top of the forest,” said Richard Creightmore, a geomancer who divines spiritual meaning from earth markings in Ashdown Forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe forest’s most bizarre occult episode, however, is rumoured to have taken place during World War Two, featuring a merry cast of warlocks, spies and Nazis. Cecil Williamson was a British screenwriter and prominent pagan who was hired by MI6 in 1938 to find out more about the apparent interest of senior Nazis in the occult. He conceived a propaganda exercise called Operation Mistletoe, which aimed to take advantage of the Nazis’ increasing fixation on the dark arts by staging a fake occult ritual in Ashdown Forest. The hope was that it would damage Nazi morale if they believed that supernatural forces were working against them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ceremony is said to have involved berobed Canadian soldiers dancing around burning effigies of Hitler and his colleagues. If it sounds like something from a James Bond film, perhaps that’s no surprise; according to biographer Mark Simmons, Ian Fleming was said to have been in attendance. While the exact details of Williamson’s ceremony may never be known, it is known that Ashdown Forest was the site of Aspidistra, a radio mast used to transmit this kind of wartime “black propaganda”. The site is now a Sussex Police training facility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo what is it about East Grinstead? Some of the locals will tell you the answer lies beneath the earth in the form of powerful \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20191104-the-ancient-network-that-links-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eley lines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and their intersection with the Greenwich Meridian, which passes through the centre of town. “We lie here at the intersection of the High Weald sandstone ridges – whose quartz crystalline structure enhances cognitive clarity – with the Greenwich Meridian,” said Creightmore. “Lots of good stuff has happened all along the meridian, as well as in the High Weald,” he added, “but the esoteric spirituality appears to be most concentrated at the conjunction of both, in the hub around East Grinstead and Forest Row.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven for the more mystically minded, though, this theory can be a little hard to swallow. Davina MacKail, a teacher of shamanism and feng shui, told me: “I believe the energy surrounding the East Grinstead area is enhanced by the ancient woodlands. There has been much reported about its plethora of ley lines, but I think the real reason for its attraction to weird religious sects has more to do with its close proximity to London, and the fact that since the Scientologists moved in in the late 1960s people accept alternative lifestyles here. It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury. People can carry out their alternative practices in peace and find support within the local community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther locals agree that the answer is more prosaic. “East Grinstead has traditionally been a meeting place over the millennia,” said the town’s tourism officer Dawn Spalding. “People met here, travelling along droving lanes to sell their wares. It was seen as quite a safe place to be.” Father Gaskin, of the Church of Our Lady and St Peter, explained it in even less romantic terms in the 1994 documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=EnIRDDXvWCg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy East Grinstead?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, claiming: “People have gravitated to this part of the world because of Gatwick Airport.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECertainly the area’s proximity to London, coupled with its abundance of stately homes with far-reaching views over the High Weald, makes it attractive to moneyed types of a bohemian bent. Saint Hill Manor, the reason the Scientologists came in the first place, is just one of these; another is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hammerwoodpark.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHammerwood Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the east of town, an elegantly crumbling Greek Revival pile once owned by Led Zeppelin. The comparison to Glastonbury’s boho brand of gentrification is apt; the fact that the area around East Grinstead and Forest Row is celebrated both for its biodynamic farms and its world-class golf course rather sums up the spirit of the place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne episode in East Grinstead’s history, though, predates the arrival of L Ron Hubbard and sheds more light on the town’s character than any wild theory about unconventional religions and supernatural energy. During World War Two, the town’s Queen Victoria Hospital was the site of pioneering plastic surgery by Sir Archibald McIndoe, a New Zealander employed by the Royal Air Force. McIndoe’s innovations in the field of cosmetic surgery (his speciality was the “McIndoe nose”) became foundational to the field and gave a new lease of life to dozens of airmen who had suffered horrific burns and other injuries in combat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They were told not to stare and it has become ingrained","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHis medical expertise, however, was matched by an understanding of his patients’ mental health that was decades ahead of its time. He did away with the clinical outfits traditionally worn by recovering patients – known, appropriately, as the Hospital Blues – and allowed the airmen to wear their own clothes instead. McIndoe formed a support group for them – which was christened, in the tradition of wartime gallows humour, the Guinea Pig Club – and set about ensuring that East Grinstead would be a tolerant and welcoming home during their rehabilitation. Encouraging those who were well enough to venture out into town, he implored the local residents to make them feel at ease – and they obliged so readily that East Grinstead became known as “the town that didn’t stare”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The work to rebuild the shattered minds of the badly burned airmen required East Grinstead people to accept the men with all their disfigurements without drawing attention to them,” explained Spalding. “They were told not to stare and it has become ingrained; many famous people come to town and shop quite happily without fear of being disturbed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe area’s attraction to well-heeled buyers in pursuit of peace and quiet shows no signs of abating; in 2017, Adele became the latest megastar to lay down roots here, in a Grade II-listed manor house. It seems that now, just as in the days of Archibald McIndoe and his Guinea Pigs, East Grinstead is a town that knows when to look away. It’s no wonder people of all stripes feel so at home here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-04T23:04:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"England’s sleepy ‘Scientology town’","headlineShort":"The English town that lured Tom Cruise","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The sleepy Sussex market town of East Grinstead has gained a reputation in recent decades as a hotbed for offbeat religious activity.","summaryShort":"“It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-01-03T23:05:21.347Z","entity":"article","guid":"fc6e3727-88b3-4770-a83e-44cbcc73c4b4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:01:40.667084Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth","_id":"616ff63745ceed27b40d7908","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This remote 145-island archipelago is always sunny, lapped by azure water and rumoured to be where King Arthur is buried.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe mere mention of King Arthur makes most people think of Guinevere, Lancelot and the sword in the stone. But what about the Isles of Scilly? This cluster of islands 28 miles off Cornwall’s tip is where some believe the legendary British king is buried, on the site of his final battle with Mordred in the 6th Century. That was in the mythical land of Lyonesse – a flooded country stretching west from Cornwall whose submerged peaks are believed by some to be the Isles of Scilly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scilly is an otherworldly, offbeat place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed there are tombs on the islands that date back millennia, and these once-lavish chambers would have been more than fitting for a fabled chieftain. But the likelihood Arthur ever lay in them (if he even existed) is very small. In fact, the legend yoking him to Scilly is much more recent – it’s the work of Alfred Lord Tennyson. The Victorian poet visited the islands on holiday with friends and was so smitten with the landscape, which he thought evocative of a simpler, pre-industrial time, that he co-opted the archipelago as a romantic backdrop when he dashed off his tribute to Arthur, Idylls of the King. This blockbuster piece of populist poetry brought the idea of Lyonesse to wider audiences, while simultaneously cementing its association with Scilly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrankly, it’s a shame to know those stories are likely nonsense as you arrive in Scilly. Flying in, the 145-island archipelago resembles dribbles of pancake batter flicked haphazardly onto a hot pan – or in this case, the sea. The tiny, oddly shaped islands shimmer into view almost unexpectedly, hovering on the edge of the modern world, like a real-life Brigadoon. Indeed, ask most Britons about them, and they’ll pause slightly, puzzled, before a flicker of recognition and a smile, much as you would remembering a distant relative you wish you knew better. And with good reason: Scilly is an otherworldly, offbeat place, somewhere it’s easy to imagine, as Tennyson did, King Arthur roaming the hills.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Strolling around Scilly after landing at the airport is like stepping into not-quite Britain","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStrolling around Scilly after landing at the airport is like stepping into not-quite Britain. Just five of its islands are now inhabited, though you’ll spot relics of former settlements on several others. Outside one store there’s a chalkboard on which the high tides and wind directions for the day are scrawled; after all, locals commute between islands by boat and need to plan ahead so they’re not marooned by the tides. Most of the houses are small, neat old fishermen’s cottages with tidy hedges in the front garden – not boxwood or yew, though, but supersized succulents that thrive, Triffid-style, thanks to the Mediterranean-like weather here. On Scilly, it’s as if the rules and laws of the rest of the UK seem not to apply, or at least only with an asterisk or two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat’s certainly what Colin Taylor found when he moved here to be a policeman. Taylor stayed for almost a decade and wrote a memoir documenting his experiences, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F111\u002F1111471\u002Fthe-life-of-a-scilly-sergeant\u002F9781784755157.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Life of a Scilly Sergeant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In it, he wrote about run-ins with burglars who left fried eggs as their calling card, or a short-sighted horse that was wrecking local cars. Taylor discovered the islands much as Tennyson did, when he decided to visit on his honeymoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I said, ‘Let’s go and find this mythical place which is Scilly’,” Taylor told me. Quickly smitten with the quirky way of life, he moved here – only to find himself in an unexpected position: several close encounters with Prince Charles, when the heir apparent flew into the islands and Taylor formed part of the team tasked with guiding and protecting him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EScilly – call it that, or the Isles of Scilly, but never the Scillies, or the locals will scoff – is part of the Duchy of Cornwall, a centuries-old fiefdom currently under the stewardship of the Prince of Wales. The Duchy supplies Charles with much of his personal income; in 2020, that was £22.2m. Those earnings include rents from almost every hectare of Scilly. Aside from a small patch of Hugh Town, the capital on the main island of St Mary’s, a significant percentage of residents don't own their house outright, but rather rent or lease it from the Prince. To move, these people must petition the Duchy, explaining why they need more space, then wait patiently until a potential new home becomes vacant and is offered to them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191008-the-british-isle-that-doesnt-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British Island that's not in the UK\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200720-an-abandoned-british-island-reclaimed-by-nature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn abandoned British island reclaimed by nature\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe locals, even in Hugh Town, don’t bristle at the system, though. Mention Prince Charles to most and they’ll shift slightly, lips tightening, ready to defend him against outsiders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People might say ‘Bloody Duchy!’,” newsagent and newspaper publisher Clive Mumford told me, sitting in his book-strewn study on the main street. “But I look at it differently. If all land and property was freehold, the whole place would be wrecked overnight. It’s anachronistic, but it’s a buffer against overdevelopment.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe fondness is mutual: Prince Charles visits most years and brought Princess Diana here several times, including a memorable visit with their young sons in 1989. Locals will still proudly tell you that paparazzi who hired boats to spy on the family found themselves taken out to the wrong islands by protective fishermen. This summer, when the pandemic nudged the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge to holiday domestically with their kids, they chose to return with their own children. William and Kate didn’t stay at Charles’ private home on St Mary’s, though – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.duchyofcornwallholidaycottages.co.uk\u002Fproperties\u002Ftamarisk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETamarisk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cottage that is now available for rent via the Duchy – but rather at another of the Scillonian houses booked for the prince’s personal use on a different island: Tresco.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scilly has startling communalities to the Galapagos Islands","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETresco is yet another Scillonian anomaly. Rather than a single house, the entire island is on long-term lease from the Duchy to an aristocratic British family. They first took it over in the 1830s when the ancestor of the current leaseholder, Robert Dorrien-Smith, came here with a fortune and a mind to transform what was then one of the poorest corners of the British Isles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“He was a philanthropist, and he was looking for somewhere he could try out an experiment, mainly with education, and wanted to find a community where he could rule it,” said Richard Larn, the islands’ foremost historian who also leads tours around the islands. That do-gooder, Augustus Smith, funded universal schooling for children up to age 11 on the islands – a first in England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESmith had other interests, too, in particular gardening. Because Scilly’s flora and fauna are cut off from the mainland, it has startling communalities to the Galapagos Islands, more than 6,000 miles away. The archipelago's isolatation has historically kept invasive animals, plants and even infections from disrupting the islands' equilibrium. (Indeed, the archipelago remained Covid-19-free until late September, when it detected its first – and so far only – non-lethal case). The highly endangered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-cornwall-18409551\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScilly bee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E remains free from any of the viruses that threaten bee survival elsewhere and is one of several endemic species on the archipelago, such as the Scilly shrew (a sub-species of the lesser white-toothed shrew, thanks to its darker fur and unusual beach habitat, it’s now often lumped in with that overall group). Native British red squirrels, which have largely been elbowed out by imported greys on the mainland, have a haven on Tresco, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are no predators, so they’re quite tame,” said head gardener Andrew Lawson as he stood in the middle of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tresco.co.uk\u002Fenjoying\u002Fabbey-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETresco Abbey Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, surveying it proudly. The 17-acre oasis has been Lawson’s turf for more than 30 years, and he works closely with the Dorrien-Smith family to maintain this ecological Eden of 20,000 plants from more than 80 countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELawson is tanned from those decades spent outdoors, his face lined from the sun – an unexpected danger in the UK, perhaps. But Scilly’s weather is also quirky: relentlessly, un-Britishly sunny, it averages 7.6 hours of sunshine per day in July, almost two hours more than London. The weather pattern is the result of the warming winds that cause the North Atlantic Drift. This is the reason why Mediterranean-type plants are able to thrive on Scilly, but it also ensures that it’s rarely frosty in winter – a boon for the Tresco Abbey Garden. If only this wind pattern had an effect on the waters here too; though bright blue and pollution free, pause before plunging in. Even on a hot summer day, expect them to be bracing, as they rush in from the Atlantic and remain ice-cold year-round as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe weather, of course, has helped burnish the islands’ reputation as a tourist spot; it also provided the archipelago’s main industry before tourism boomed in the last few decades. Back in the late 19th Century, an enterprising local farmer sent some narcissus flowers to a London market in early spring – see, he said, how much sooner flowers bloom in Scilly. There was a frenzied positive reaction, which helped flower farms and bulbs became the islands’ core industry for several decades. Even now, after globalisation upended the economics of that business, there are around two dozen flower farms still in operation – most of them on St Marys and a few on the northernmost inhabited island, St Martin's. Walk around St Martin's in the spring, as I did, and you’ll see wildflowers peeking through the grassy slopes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EClose to St Martin's are the uninhabited Eastern Isles. Excavations have revealed that Britons called this tiny cluster of islets home in the Bronze and Iron Ages, and a Roman shrine has even been unearthed here, showing the length of habitation. Back then, though, these islets would have been far larger and likely connected to most of the other landmasses – much of what’s now Scilly would have been a single, unnamed island in prehistoric times. They were separated only as sea levels rose; indeed, the harbour on the main island of St Mary’s came into use after the waters rose again in the 1550s and made it viable for shipping.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven now, during low tides, you can wade between several of the islands. Seeing that, it’s easy to see how Tennyson was inspired to suggest Scilly was once Lyonesse as Taylor explained to me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“On a really, really low tide, you can see for miles and miles, including all the jagged rocks and peaks that would normally be under the weather and the field systems and walls that vanished when they flooded,” he said, “It’s just like you’ve revealed an Arthurian, legendary world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-10T20:41:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Scilly: Britain’s Mediterranean-like isles steeped in myth","headlineShort":"The least British of the British Isles?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This remote 145-island archipelago is always sunny, lapped by azure water and rumoured to be where King Arthur is buried.","summaryShort":"It’s as if the rules and laws of the rest of the UK don’t apply here","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-11-09T20:45:49.214987Z","entity":"article","guid":"a355ba30-d00a-41d1-a53d-99166b3cda15","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:57:57.230421Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island","_id":"616ff64e45ceed2c222c5264","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Legend has it that author Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1869 visit to the Scottish island inspired his classic tale of adventure, Treasure Island.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom the northern tip of Unst, Shetland – the UK’s most northerly inhabited island – a dramatic view comes into sight. Encircled by gannets, the tiny isle of Muckle Flugga rises sheer out of the North Sea. Perched atop its serrated rocks, pointing upwards like a single candle stuck into a birthday cake and marking the end of the UK like an exclamation mark, is the most northerly of Scotland’s lighthouses. It wears the colours – creamy white with a ring of pale yellow – that identifies it as a Stevenson lighthouse. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson would have been familiar with this view. As a young man in 1869, he accompanied his father, the pioneering lighthouse engineer Thomas Stevenson, on a visit to Unst and Muckle Flugga to inspect the lighthouse that Thomas and his brother David had started building in 1854. The brothers each designed more than 30 lighthouses around Scotland’s coasts; Robert Louis was expected to follow his family into lighthouse engineering, and this trip was part of his preliminary education. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“They sailed around the east coast lights,” writes Bella Bathurst in The Lighthouse Stevensons, her biography of three generations of the Stevenson family, who all built beacons, “up to Scapa Flow and then to Muckle Flugga.” She continued, “But [Robert] Louis seemed far more interested in the scenery than he was in the lights.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERobert Louis never did become a lighthouse engineer, but legend has it that his visit to the area inspired his classic tale of adventure, Treasure Island, published in 1883.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191008-the-british-isle-that-doesnt-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British island that's not in the UK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190408-what-unicorns-mean-to-scottish-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat unicorns mean to Scottish identity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe renaissance of Northern Ireland's forgotten 'seafood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFew records remain of Stevenson’s visit, besides his brief entry in the visitor’s book for North Unst Lighthouse (as it was then known), which states simply: \"R L Stevenson, Edinburgh, 19 June 1869”. But the association is a plausible story: look at the fictional map of Treasure Island – described in the book as “like a fat dragon standing up” – and you’d be unable to miss its resemblance to that of Unst, an outline Stevenson would have seen on the maps used by the lighthouse engineers while sailing around Unst’s coast to the rocks of Muckle Flugga. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"[Robert] Louis seemed far more interested in the scenery than he was in the lights","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI’d heard of the Treasure Island association before I came to Unst, and sitting there at what felt like the wind-battered edge of the world, it was easy to understand how Unst could so inspire the imagination. It’s a place that lies at the furthest edge of the UK, closer to Tórshavn, Oslo, and the Arctic Circle than to London. Unst’s association with the book wasn’t why I’d come – I’ve long been drawn to far northern islands – but it intrigued me enough to pick up a copy of Treasure Island before I set out. Re-reading the book, I wondered if, when I’d first read it as a young girl, it was where I had found my love of the remote edges of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEarly on, waiting to begin his voyage to Treasure Island, Stevenson’s protagonist tells of “brooding” over the map he’d discovered in an old sea captain’s chest, “full of sea dreams and the most charming anticipations of strange islands and adventures”. These are words that could surely inspire even a committed landlubber to set sail for far-flung shores. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy own journey to Unst was easy. In the Shetlandic capital of Lerwick, where I’d disembarked after an overnight ferry from Aberdeen, I boarded a bus and was delivered to my destination two and a half hours later. Shetland may be sparsely populated, but it has an extensive bus network that efficiently links up with its ferries. After leaving my bag at a youth hostel that occupies an old Royal Air Force station, I set out on foot for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.scot\u002Fenjoying-outdoors\u002Fscotlands-national-nature-reserves\u002Fhermaness-national-nature-reserve\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHermaness National Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.  \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.scot\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002F2019-05\u002FPublication%202019%20-%20Visit%20Hermaness%20NNR%20-%20At%20the%20edge%20of%20the%20world.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScottish Natural Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the public body that manages the reserve, describes Hermaness in summer as “the New York of the seabird world: a noisy, bustling and often smelly metropolis that is home to more than 100,000 breeding seabirds”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPast the visitors centre inside the old Muckle Flugga Lighthouse Shore Station – where lighthouse keepers slept when not on duty – I walked through steep, grassy and boggy terrain, along a path clearly marked so as not to disturb nesting great skuas, the aggressive seabirds known in Shetland as “bonxies”. I reached the cliff edges around an hour later, turned south and could smell the guano before I arrived at the high gannetry on the cliffs, below woolly sheep clinging absurdly to the unprotected edges. Thousands of gannets, known in Shetland as “solans”, occupied each and every surface of the cliffs, while others, coming into land from a day spent fishing, glided above them, looking for a vacant patch of rock. On top of the cliffs, puffins (or, “tammie norries”) waddled in and out of their burrows. It was a place utterly humming with life, the noise, smell, sound and sight of it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A treasure of an island, then, but is Unst really Treasure Island?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI turned and headed north along the cliffs, down emerald-green grassy slopes. More gannets occupied the rocks and sea arch offshore. Their racket competed with the din of the wind-whipped sea. Rounding a bend, a small chain of skerries, like stones skimmed across the water, came into view: Vesta Skerry, Rumblings, Tipta Skerry, Muckle Flugga and finally Out Stack, which officially marks the very end of the UK. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe fantastic names added to my delight in being there; a feeling that seemed to be shared by the other few visitors I came across. “It’s glorious!” one woman sang, near giddy with joy, as I passed her returning along the cliffs. Another who had leaned on her walker all the way to the cliffs told me that she just wanted to sit there and wait for the sun to set – never mind that the Shetlandic high summer is the time of “simmer dim”, as it is known locally, when the sun only dips briefly below the horizon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf its coastline is the setting for high drama, Unst’s interior is captivating in a different way. The following day, I visited the large expanse of serpentine rock that is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.scot\u002Fenjoying-outdoors\u002Fsnh-nature-reserves\u002Fkeen-hamar-nature-reserve\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKeen of Hamar Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, east of the island’s largest settlement of Baltasound. A rocky, almost lunar-like landscape, the Keen of Hamar may appear barren but is home to an extraordinary array of plant life. On the cliffs, the elements had been a force that surrounded me, but here I had to crouch forward, leaning into the rocks to identify the area’s often minuscule plants: the bubblegum-pink flowers of moss campion; delicate Norwegian sandwort; and the mouse-eared Edmonston’s chickweed, Britain’s rarest plant, which flowers here (and nowhere else) in June and July.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome of the most idiosyncratic attractions I have ever visited revealed themselves in similarly subtle ways. I stopped into the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unstheritage.com\u002Fweb\u002Funst-boat-haven\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnst Boat Haven\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for a quick look and wound up staying well over an hour in the small museum, admiring its extensive collection of lovingly cared for small wooden fishing boats and learning about the resilient fishermen who went out in them, sometimes as far as 30 miles offshore. The reputation of the elaborately furnished \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unstbusshelter.shetland.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBobby’s Bus Shelter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a bus stop-turned-tourist attraction, which locals decorate every year to reflect a different theme – precedes it, but it was even more cosy and charming in real life. Wandering around small settlements, I’d see Shetland ponies grazing in gardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEverywhere I went on Unst, various businesses proclaimed themselves “Britain’s most northerly”: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fvictoriasvintagetearoomsltd\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etea rooms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, post office, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shetlandreel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edistillery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But I began to feel that nowhere needed these qualifications. The island, I thought, is full of treasures in its own right, all packed into an area of just 12 miles long and five miles wide – not far off Treasure Island’s “nine miles long and five across”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA treasure of an island, then, but is Unst really Treasure Island?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Robert Louis never followed his family into lighthouse engineering, it’s likely that their work lighting up the Scottish coast, surrounded by maps, nurtured a love of cartography in him. “I am told there are people who do not care for maps”, he wrote in his 1893 essay My First Book, “and I find it hard to believe.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI asked Paula Williams, curator of the Maps, Mountaineering and Polar Collections at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nls.uk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Library of Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to compare the two maps. The outline of Stevenson’s Treasure Island from the novel does resemble that of Unst, she agreed, “as if viewed from the south, complete with corresponding inlets and [the] small islet Skeleton Island, [as it is called in the novel], or Uya [its real name]”. The outline, Williams told me, is “no less accurate than on some early sea charts”, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaps.nls.uk\u002Fview\u002F74401123\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis map from 1787\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She added that Unst also has small hills on its headlands that could easily translate into the book’s Mizzen-mast and Foremast Hills, notable features of Treasure Island that Captain Smollett points out as the expedition schooner, the Hispianola, approaches in search of treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It is easy to imagine how something similar could have been sketched, perhaps, from memory,’ she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater charts, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaps.nls.uk\u002Fview\u002F101946716\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis 1833 map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the Shetland Islands, however, tell a different story, showing that the sea around Unst is significantly deeper than that of Treasure Island. Stevenson had taken the care to detail the depth of water around Treasure Island, Williams said, describing it to me as \"less than five fathoms until further out from the island where it deepens to 12 or so”. But on Unst charts, “it can be as deep as 26 in the bays and more than 40 fathoms deep off shore”. Finally, Williams added that “Unst is also narrower on the east-west axis than Treasure Island and longer north-south.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the legend persists. Much like the local businesses making the most of their “most northerly” selling point, the island seems keen to emphasise Unst’s resemblance to Treasure Island and the Stevenson connection, with it mentioned everywhere from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unst.org\u002F2010\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eofficial Unst website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nts.org.uk\u002Fstories\u002Fnorthern-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Trust for Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs for the island's setting in the book, the author in 1893 told the Sydney Morning Herald newspaper: “I only wish myself that I knew where it was”. Possibly anticipating the coming challenge of global “overtourism”, he said that he was “careful to give no indication as to its whereabouts for fear that there might be an undue rush towards it”, before adding that “it is generally supposed to be in the West Indies”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter leaving Unst, I realised that I’d neglected to make the most important Stevenson connection: to visit Unst’s equivalent spot marked by an “X” on the map of Treasure Island to indicate the buried treasure hidden by the infamous pirate Captain Flint. I made a rough approximation on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002F60%2525C2%2525B041'51.6%252522N+0%2525C2%2525B056'01.3%252522W\u002F@60.697677,-0.9358857,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m14!1m7!3m6!1s0x489faf7f563c4bd5:0x34e5bdde0c4e5e25!2sUnst,+Shetland,+UK!3b1!8m2!3d60.7575389!4d-0.860625!3m5!1s0x0:0x0!7e2!8m2!3d60.6976766!4d-0.9336968\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoogle Maps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – taking Unst's Clay Burn as the stream marked running inland from the bay containing Skeleton Island on the Stevenson map – and asked Williams if this seemed a likely place to stash treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis spot’s lack of notable features, she said, deems it unlikely. “You would imagine that a pirate would use some form of triangulation or dead-reckoning to remember the spot”. But, she added, “if it’s just daubed on an imaginary landscape that wouldn’t matter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy question, of course, was absurd. An attempt to force an association onto something Stevenson had left deliberately opaque. Better, instead, to let treasures reveal themselves on their own terms. Like a mysterious map, by chance, falling out of an old sea captain’s chest, or the idiosyncratic attractions of the island of Unst.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}} \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-12-10T20:57:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Unst: A real life Treasure Island","headlineShort":"The UK's real-life Treasure Island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Legend has it that author Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1869 visit to the Scottish island inspired his classic tale of adventure, Treasure Island.","summaryShort":"Legend has it that Robert Louis Stevenson’s visit inspired his tale of adventure","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-12-09T21:06:09.46239Z","entity":"article","guid":"de0e55d4-d53f-47ec-9754-65dbdacadc7b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:29:43.201718Z","project":"travel","slug":"20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice","_id":"616ff65745ceed1f61758b8c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjessica-vincent"],"bodyIntro":"Norfolk's seafaring traditions continue to shape the county's cultural identity, with passionate people on the Norfolk Broads working towards a greener, more sustainable future.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe were so close I could have touched it. The boat's enormous white sail, outstretched like the wing of a swan poised for battle, was pulled tight with an unexpected gust of wind and we were headed straight for a speedboat anchored on the riverbank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Quant!\" shouted Dean Howard, our skipper, from the helm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe crew sprang into action, running across the deck to haul a wooden stick the length of the boat into the water. Using their bodies as leverage, they pushed the quant into the muddy riverbed below in an attempt to turn 15 tonnes of solid wood in a few seconds. We held our breath: nothing. But a boat this size requires patience. With the grace of a ballet dancer, our 52ft wherry turned at the last possible moment, missing the stationary speedboat by an arm's length.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was sailing the Norfolk Broads, a wetland in the east of England with more navigable waterways than Venice or Amsterdam, aboard White Moth, a wide, solid oak wherry unique to the Norfolk Broads. With more than 125 miles of lock-free rivers and lakes stretching across the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, the Broads are a network so large that, up until the 1950s, they were thought to be a natural phenomenon. It was only when British botanist Joyce Lambert discovered that most of the lakes had perpendicular walls and a flat bottom that the Broads' history was rewritten. Further research by the University of Cambridge found that Britain's largest protected wetland had in fact been hand-dug by medieval peat diggers between the 12th and 14th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries that followed, flooded peat diggings became a vital trading network for what was then one of Britain's most prosperous counties (King's Lynn, an hour north of the Broads, was a major Hanseatic League port between the 13th and 15th Centuries, bringing many wealthy merchants to its shores). In the 17th Century, especially designed boats known as wherries were built to transport reeds, timber and, during England's Civil War, soldiers and ammunition up and down the Broads – and, if conditions were right, to and from ships anchored along the Norfolk coast. Capable of carrying up to 40 tonnes and perfectly designed for the Broads' shallow, sheltered waters, wherries remained the primary form of transportation in Norfolk and Suffolk for two centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wtx2g"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Quant being used to turn a wherry on the Norfolk Broads","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe introduction of more efficient modes of transport like the railway and steam-powered road lorries in the late 19th Century, however, marked the end for Norfolk's trading wherries. As trade opportunities decreased, forward-thinking wherrymen converted their boats during the summer, adding windows below deck and dividing the hold into cabins for the influx of Victorian holidaymakers arriving from London by steam train. The spacious boats were so popular that by World War Two, around 100 specially built wherry yachts, fitted with luxurious cabins and pianos for entertainment (White Moth still has hers), had replaced all trading wherries on the Broads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe least British of the British Isles?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's sleepy Scientology town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's real-life Treasure Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut even pleasure wherries couldn't stand the test of time. As holidays abroad became more popular in the 1960s and '70s, and expensive-to-maintain skippered wherries were replaced with hire-your-own speedboats, many were destroyed or left to deteriorate. Today, only eight sailable Norfolk wherries exist – five of which, including White Moth, are owned by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wherryyachtcharter.org\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWherry Yacht Charter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a not-for-profit organisation that runs chartered sailings aboard the wherries to fund their conservation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOut of danger and a calm, open river ahead, White Moth sailed us slowly down the River Bure as we stretched out on deck. Away from day-trippers churning the river in rented speedboats, I closed my eyes and strained to hear the Broads' music: the rustle of a fabric sail caught in a headwind; the gentle lapping of water against wood; the faint air swish of a bird, perhaps a reed warbler or copper-throated swallow, flitting between mist-shrouded trees, the grey-blue water rising and falling at their bottle-green leaves like liquid silver.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These boats are living history, but they're also a way to get closer to nature,\" said Bill Housden, who volunteered as a tea boy for Wherry Yacht Charter 20 years ago and is now the treasurer and one of the skippers. \"Wherries are so quiet and slow-moving that birds perch on the side and otters swim metres away from us. It's difficult to explain, but that feeling of being seamlessly part of nature is incredibly special.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There will be a time when we'll have to rethink the way we live in the UK. When that happens, we'll need the knowledge of people who lived more sustainably than us.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I ask why it's important for wherries to be on the water rather than in a museum, despite the cost of keeping them operational, he responded: \"There will be a time when we'll have to rethink the way we live in the UK. When that happens, we'll need the knowledge of people who lived more sustainably than us. Some say we're stuck in the past, but I think we're looking to the future – a greener, more sustainable future where we work with nature, not against it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wtx0s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"White Moth wherry sailing in the Norfolk Broads","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEqually as passionate about the Broad's role in creating a more eco-conscious culture in Britain is Nicola Hems, curator of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museumofthebroads.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Museum of the Broads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2011. \"Compared to other national parks in the UK, the Broads are underappreciated,\" Hems said, as she showed me the museum's wherry replicas and Norfolk Broads holiday posters from the 1950s. \"It's such a unique and fragile ecosystem with a rich history, yet we're not doing enough to protect it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Broads isn't just about nature and science – it's about people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite being home to more than a quarter of Britain's rarest animals and aquatic plants, including the swallowtail butterfly and holly-leaved naiad, decades of untreated sewage and fertilisers have polluted the water and endangered its endemic species. Flooding and rising sea levels are also a concern. Although the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk\u002Fnews-and-articles\u002Farticles\u002Fall-articles\u002Ftipping-the-balance\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorfolk Wildlife Trust has begun bio-manipulation and rewilding projects \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eto tackle the effects of pollution and climate change, Hems believes that getting the public to fall in love with the Broads is key to its survival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Broads isn't just about nature and science – it's about people. They were made by ordinary people, and they'll need to be protected by ordinary people, too. I hope that by bringing the Broads to life in this museum, more people will appreciate how special Norfolk's waterways are and want to protect them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked what role she thinks wherries play in the survival of the Broads, Hems responded: \"The museum can teach you its history, but getting out onto the water is what makes you fall in love with the Broads.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile wherries have only made their comeback as pleasure boats, an hour north of the Broads, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcoastalexplorationcompany.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoastal Exploration Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which offers sailing trips along the north Norfolk coast aboard 1950s wooden crab boats, is taking things one step further. Inspired by King's Lynn Hanseatic League history – a guild of merchants that traded wool, cloth and salt in the North and Baltic seas between the 13th and 15th Centuries – the adventure company recently delivered cargo under sail between Wells-next-the-sea and King's Lynn for the first time in 600 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wtwzy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Wherry at The Museum of the Broads, Norfolk","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The way we deliver goods in the UK has to change,\" said Henry Chamberlain, Coastal Exploration founder and Royal Marine, as we set sail into the lavender-purple salt marshes of north Norfolk. \"Our roads are full; our waters polluted. We need to find a way to do better.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoastal Exploration Company has so far only delivered Wells-based Barsham Brewery's craft ale to King's Lynn but hopes that this major milestone will encourage more local businesses to jump on board. \"There's lots of talk about sustainably sourced food in our country,\" said Chamberlain. \"But what about sustainably \u003Cem\u003Edelivered\u003C\u002Fem\u003E food? It's the missing link in our sustainability chain.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the challenges, Wherry Yacht Trust and Coastal Exploration Company believe that promoting carbon-free transportation, whether that be for pleasure or trade, is key to ensuring one of Britain's last great wildernesses is here for future generations. As we sailed into a churning grey sea, my hair matted with sea salt and my face splattered with rain, I finally understood something Chamberlain had said to me earlier: \"It's only when we experience nature in all its raw, unpredictable beauty that we'll truly want to save it.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-30T20:01:23Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The English county with more waterways than Venice","headlineShort":"England's unusual beer delivery","image":["p09wtx2n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Abandoned windmill on the Norfolk Broads at sunset","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.6049","longitude":"1.6089","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Abandoned windmill on the Norfolk Broads at sunset","promoImage":["p09wtx0s"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Norfolk's seafaring traditions continue to shape the county's cultural identity, with passionate people on the Norfolk Broads working towards a greener, more sustainable future.","summaryShort":"Norfolk's seafaring traditions continue to shape the county's cultural identity","tag":["tag\u002Feco-tourism"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-29T20:04:14.974493Z","entity":"article","guid":"883332e4-a0a2-4e8b-a0d8-0deb6bd15b87","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-30T15:55:20.818259Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","_id":"616ff65745ceed3641603193","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's easy to swallow, so Egyptian mothers feed their babies on it after nursing,\" remarked Emad Farag, an employee at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com.au\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fcaixr-the-st-regis-cairo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe St. Regis Cairo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as I slurped another spoonful of the mysterious moss-coloured soup. Of all the things I'd imagined I'd be dining on in Cairo's swankiest new hotel, \"posh baby food\" was not it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this uniquely gummy concoction \u003Cem\u003Eis no ordinary baby food. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPronounced \"mo-lo-h-i-a\", but spelt innumerable ways, the unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers. Originating from the word \u003Cem\u003Emulukia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"that which belongs to the royals\", legend has it that a healing soup made from the molokhia plant nursed an Egyptian ruler back to health in the 10th Century. And so, a stew worthy of pharaohs was born, and a royal veggie was crowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far back as you can trace the roots, people ate what was local, and what is local along the Nile is molokhia,\" food historian-cum-food health writer Michelle Berriedale-Johnson said. To this day, 95% of Egyptians live along the fabled river's life-giving banks and arc-shaped delta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They were eating \u003Cem\u003Eful \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty fava bean stew) and molokhia in pharaonic times, and they're eatingful and molokhia now, because that's what grows and what suits their diet and the climate,\" Berriedale-Johnson continued. \"You'll get leaves in some of the tomb paintings,\" she said of the saw-toothed leaf vegetable that belongs to the mallow family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.ch\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FTreasure_Trove_of_Benefits_and_Variety_a.html?id=fIJ1DwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&hl=en&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author Nawal Nasrallah writes: \"The ancient Egyptians left no culinary recipes, but food remains from their tombs and coffin murals, that depict baking and other food-related activities, testify to the sophisticated level of their cuisine… These depictions also reveal the abundance of their produce such as Jew's mallow (mulukhiyya).\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its plentiful supply, molokhia wasn't always available to the masses. According to folklore, the Caliph of Cairo (one of Egypt's rulers from the 10th Century Fatimid dynasty) outlawed consumption of the viscous soup because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect on women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The molokhia plant grows along the Nile is sold at markets in Egypt","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo longer the preserve of pharaohs, these days molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen. While the official national dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekoshary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a vegetarian medley of rice, chickpeas, macaroni and lentils) most Egyptians consider molokhia to be the country's emblematic meal. The earthy and grassy flavoured at-home dish is ordinarily eaten in the evening – paired with rice, bread or meat. However, some purists (and children) will consume molokhia neat, as a lunchtime soup. It's also a regular fixture on the menus of no-frills Egyptian restaurants like Cairo's El Prince on Talaat Harb Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not an expensive vegetable,\" Farag said. \"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor.\" In Aswan's Sharia as-Souq, I queued alongside a construction worker, bank manager and taxi driver to buy bunches of it from a rusty wheelbarrow manned by Mahmoud. The 15-year-old market vendor told me he sells 110 EGP ($7) of molokhia daily, harvested on his family's one-hectare plot in nearby \u003Cem\u003EAbu El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReesh.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EThe world's best falafel?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170323-the-deadly-dish-people-love-to-eat\"\u003EThe deadly dish people love to eat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuckier stallholders get to shelter from the stifling sun under rainbow parasols lining the bazaar's seven blocks, which run parallel to the Nile. I followed my nose to Al Reda spice store on Saad Zaghloul Street, where burlap sacks overflowed with dried hibiscus flowers, cumin and dried molokhia. The store's third-generation owner Moustafa Mohammed told me that while his ancestors made\u003Cem\u003Emolokhia nashfa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which uses dried versus fresh leaves, he mops up his molokhia with baladi (Egypt's ancient answer to pita).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner","imageOrientation":"portrait","pullQuote":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner\np09r4dc2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamily traditions and geography dictate how and what is eaten with molokhia. In coastal cities like Alexandria, locals devour \u003Cem\u003Emolokhia bel gambary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with shrimps. Meanwhile, in the country's rural hinterland, it's paired with poached rabbit – a meat of the privileged few in ancient Egypt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETarek Helmy – a semi-retired consultant from Cairo – folds the green gloop into rice, as his father did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even the eating of molokhia can be different from one house to another,\" Helmy told me over a lavish lunch at his home in a gated community on Cairo's fringes. The invitation came about after a serendipitous meeting with one of Helmy's close friends in Luxor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelmy is one of a growing number of upper middle-class Egyptians who've traded Cairo's relentless din and dust for greened suburbia. Despite having deep pockets, he still delights in eating the slimy soup twice a week. \"Good molokhia sticks to the rice rather than separating into a watery pool on the plate,\" he explained. \"I even flew my mother over to Dubai, when I lived there, to teach my cook how to make molokhia!\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The makhrata, a mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping into Helmy's spotless kitchen, I watched as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a \u003Cem\u003Emakhrata, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It's a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia's uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who can stomach the slime, their gut and waistline will thank them later. \"It (molokhia) has all kinds of good digestive virtues,\" Berriedale-Johnson said. A recent study published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874120301756\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Ethnopharmacology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals that its leaves can even prevent gut inflammation and obesity. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA superfood without the cult following or jacked-up prices, molokhia is packed with Vitamin C, E, potassium, iron and fibre. \"It [molokhia] also contains certain antioxidant carotenoids and antioxidant elements, making a well-rounded and highly beneficial addition to your diet,\" Cairo-based child nutritionist Mai Amer told me of the nutritional powerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarek Helmy (here, with a friend) eats molokhia twice a week with rice","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the kitchen, I joined Tarek over a sublime-smelling stove. \"If you hear the \u003Cem\u003Etsas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sizzle), you're doing it right,\" he said, ladling the molokhia into a simmering pan of garlic, ground coriander and melted ghee. \"I add in some tomato for tartness and sweetness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like molokhia's regional variations, chefs have their own riffs on the recipe. Mohammed Fatih, a chef at Aswan's Makka Restaurant (located on Abtal el Tahrir Street) revealed, \"My secret is to cook a broth base made with bones from the inside of a cow's tail and simmer it for three hours.\" The freshly-minced molokhia is then slowly added to the broth. Meanwhile, Luxor-born head chef Hussein Mustafa (who works on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanctuaryretreats.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanctuary Retreat's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E trio of luxury Nile river yachts) asserts the importance of provenance. \"The best molokhia is grown amongst sugar cane fields. That's why molokhia is better in the south (of Egypt) than the north.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you hear the tsas (a sizzle), you're doing it right","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFayoum, which lies 100km south-west of Cairo in Middle Egypt is a lush oasis, where desert dunes give way to swaying palms, natural sulphur springs and endless green fields. Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1818-1770 BCE) eyed up the area's agricultural potential, and 3,500 years later, Fayoum's glut of molokhia farmers continue to work its fertile land. Wall-to-wall sunshine and the well-drained soil are perfect conditions for molokhia, which grows here from May to August in as little as 60 days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two-metre-high, super-green is also cultivated on Cairo's dusty, abandoned roof terraces. Malik Tag, head of smart farming at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschaduf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchaduf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, gave me a tour of the social enterprise's rooftop headquarters (located in the upmarket neighbourhood of \u003Cem\u003EMaadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E),where new urban garden concepts are being trialled. Molokhia was one of the first vegetables to be grown as part of Schaduf's community-led hydroponic farming projects, he said. \"The initiative(s) enabled low-income families to sell leafy greens (including molokhia) to the city's high-end supermarkets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven kilometres away in the outlying city of Giza, I met with 27-year-old receptionist Mimi Melad, a self-proclaimed stickler for tradition when it comes to molokhia. \"I always cook with fresh (molokhia) from a stall on Al-Haram Street near my home,\" she said. \"And I do the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(pronounced \"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Echa-h'a\") every time,\" she continued, referring to an age-old cooking ritual still practised today by some Egyptian women. Believed to make the dish more flavoursome, the cook leaned over the steaming molokhia, mouthing the words \"\u003Cem\u003Eshahe't el mulukhiyah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile making an audible gasp, before clamping the pan's lid shut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My mother, grandmother and her mother all did the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" Melad said, brimming with pride. Something tells me the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E will be around in another four generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-03T17:06:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A superfood fit for a pharaoh","headlineShort":"The vegetable outlawed by royalty","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.8349263","longitude":"26.3814652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","summaryShort":"The unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-02T17:27:12.915103Z","entity":"article","guid":"01cd7f09-3422-48b4-a167-92e1e0b9f972","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:12:03.673872Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape","_id":"616ff65e45ceed2e9f17735e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Bahariya and Farafra depressions have some of the rarest landscapes in Egypt, making one forget, for a moment, that the Pyramids are the country’s biggest attraction.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-29T22:17:36.784Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bahariya and Farafra: Egypt’s bizarre, desert landscape","headlineShort":"The surreal side of the Sahara","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Bahariya and Farafra depressions have some of the rarest landscapes in Egypt, making one forget, for a moment, that the Pyramids are the country’s biggest attraction.","summaryShort":"It brings life to one of the harshest regions on Earth","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-03-29T21:18:19.169137Z","entity":"article","guid":"81f861fc-9447-4908-9cae-fd18b2fb9b4c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:40:11.092621Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world","_id":"616ff63345ceed22c75c46e7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Gone are the chickpeas so ubiquitous in most other countries; here, the main ingredient is broad beans, which fry better and result in a lighter, fluffier take on the popular snack.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s Wednesday afternoon in downtown Cairo, and the usual smorgasbord of humanity is going about its daily business. From sharp-suited businesspeople single-mindedly weaving through the capital’s notorious traffic to young men on bicycles perching wooden trays of fresh bread on their heads. Everyone, it seems, has somewhere to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDown a small alleyway in the Abdeen neighbourhood, I marvel at the graceful, 19th- to 20th-Century Belle Époque stylings of a faded apartment building, the intricate balconies and wooden shutters offering a glimpse of life in this teeming city many decades ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOpposite sits a small, metal food cart. A counter runs around it, offering somewhere for patrons to hurriedly eat their meal, and tins of corned beef – used in sandwiches or mixed with eggs – are stacked with care and uniformity on the top shelf. Below are eggs, metal pots, bags of the nation’s much-loved \u003Cem\u003Eaish baladi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of whole-wheat flatbread) and a few plates containing \u003Cem\u003Etaameya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Egypt’s glorious, but underappreciated, version of falafel. Many food lovers rate it as the best falafel in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171211-who-invented-hummus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWho invented hummus?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190519-meet-the-chefs-reinventing-palestinian-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chefs reinventing Palestinian cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180508-israels-millennia-old-biblical-diet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsrael’s millennia-old ‘biblical diet’\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe cart’s owner, Amir, smiles beneath his greying moustache as he works. He removes taameya mix from a large metal bowl, forms it into small discs using his fingertips and drops them into boiling oil. His hands are almost a blur; each disc takes about a second to make.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few minutes later I’m presented with the finished article: piping hot taameya served inside aish baladi with nothing more than tomatoes, lettuce and a drizzle of tahini. On the side sit crunchy pickled vegetables in a riot of colours – the highlight of which is whole green chillies caked in chilli powder, cumin and salt. The medium-hot chilli adds a welcome bite to proceedings, yet is offset by the bitter nuttiness of the attendant cumin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The taameya sandwich is a lesson in perfect simplicity","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe taameya sandwich is a lesson in perfect simplicity. Nearby countries such as Syria and Lebanon have a reputation for incorporating greater flair into their falafel sandwiches, experimenting with different fillings and sauces, such as coleslaw, tomato herb salad and pickled turnips. These no doubt have their place but, in my opinion, they’d be hard-pressed to beat the Egyptian version. In fact, falafel cooked by Egyptian fast-casual chain Zööba won ‘best falafel’ at 2016’s London Falafel Festival in Borough Market, beating Palestinian-Lebanese competitors and leading to more ‘best in the world’ talk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of that is thanks to a certain idiosyncrasy in the way Egyptians make their falafel. Gone are the chickpeas so ubiquitous in most other countries; here, the main ingredient is broad beans, which fry better and result in a lighter, fluffier take on the popular snack. Along with garlic, onion and coriander seeds, the Egyptian mix also incorporates a greater number of fresh herbs and vegetables – such as parsley, coriander and leeks – than its neighbours’, producing a pale green interior and greater depth of flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I totally agree that the best falafel in the world comes from Egypt, and I’ve certainly told people who went to Egypt that,” said Claudia Roden, the famed culinary anthropologist and serial Middle Eastern cookbook author. “It’s all down to the taste and texture. I think broad beans… have a better texture than chickpeas, because they’re softer and creamier, plus the Egyptian version has more herbs, which makes it greener. I think the overall flavouring is much better.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Egyptian love affair with broad beans – also known as fava beans – runs deep. Along with taameya and bread, the country’s other staple dish is \u003Cem\u003Eful medames\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, in which broad beans are stewed for more than 12 hours and mixed with garlic, olive oil, cumin and lemon juice. Taameya and ful medames are primarily breakfast dishes, though their unswerving popularity means they are often consumed at any time of day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn his book, Beans: A History, food historian Ken Albala writes that eating broad beans in Egypt “seems to be a conscious act of nationalism. Ful medames is an expression of identity for modern Egyptians who choose to resist the onslaught of contemporary breakfast foods; it is a way to remember who they are.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EExactly when and why the broad bean took hold in Egypt, while most of its neighbours became enamoured with the chickpea, remains something of a mystery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBoth ingredients feature in a medieval Egyptian cookbook titled Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook, though the chickpea surprisingly features in more recipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENawal Nasrallah, the researcher and food writer who translated the book into English, speculates that this is due to chickpeas being considered a higher-class ingredient at that time. Broad beans were seen as a poor man’s food, and, in medieval times as today, cookbook authors would have wanted to show off their most elegant dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough both ingredients do feature in most regional cuisines, she said that Egypt’s subsequent embrace of broad beans over chickpeas could simply be down to availability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I think it depends on what you have and what grows abundantly… I think chickpeas are more abundant in the Levant, which why they use them. Whereas from ancient times, broad beans were used more in northern Africa… It’s all about economics. It’s cheap, it’s available. In fact, they say that broad beans are ‘the kebab of the poor’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis link to ancient Egypt is regularly cited as key to the broad bean’s enduring popularity in the country. Everyday Egyptians will trumpet ful medames and taameya as ‘the food of the pharaohs’ – there are widely cited records of broad bean traces being found in ancient tombs and claims that paintings from ancient Egyptian times show people cooking taameya.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Mennat-Allah El Dorry, an Egyptologist and archaeobotanist at the University of Warsaw in Poland, has serious doubts about these assertions. She believes the broad beans found at ancient Egyptian sites were most likely modern contaminations; that the workmen on site at the excavations, some of which took place 100 years ago when methodologies were less stringent, could well have been eating ful medames and the beans found their way into the archaeological sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Eating broad beans in Egypt seems to be a conscious act of nationalism","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Then, later, they come find it again and think: ‘Oh, good, we have ancient Egyptian ful’,” she said. “I think it wasn’t until Roman times that it started becoming more common… By the Roman times you start to get broad beans much more commonly on archaeological sites and, as time goes by, by medieval Egypt, you have broad beans appearing archaeobotanically much more often.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe beans have also been found in places that don’t make sense, such as a fifth-dynasty (2465-2325 BCE) royal funerary setting in Abu Sir on the outskirts of Cairo. “There is absolutely no reason for broad beans to be there – it’s not a settlement context and it’s not a funerary food offering, so I’m very doubtful of the finds of broad beans in ancient Egypt,” El Dorry said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs for the ancient paintings, scholars have since questioned the original publication and say the ‘broad beans’ depicted were more likely to have been tiger nuts, also known as \u003Cem\u003Echufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a tuber that is believed to have been a staple in ancient Egypt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat is in less doubt is the ferocity of the debate over the origins – and mastery – of falafel. Lebanon, the Palestinian Territories, Syria and Egypt have all claimed to be its rightful ‘home’, while Israel has labelled it a national dish and firmly bound it to the country’s national identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn her book, Falafel Nation: Cuisine and the Making of National Identity in Israel, Yael Raviv writes that “Food is constantly implicated in economic and political processes, as well as in social and historical processes… Because of the recent events in the Middle East, even something as innocent looking as a ground chickpea ball can be used as a weapon of sorts.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStanding at his food cart in a green football shirt under a blue Nike jacket, Amir gesticulates enthusiastically when discussing his country’s take on falafel. He’s been serving it the Egyptian way for 48 years, he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People who try the Egyptian style made with [broad] beans always like the taste, but those who eat it with hommos [chickpeas] just have to get used to it. Since the pharaonic times, we have been planting [broad] beans, not hommos,” he said, once again espousing the possibly misguided belief that broad beans have been eaten here since ancient Egyptian times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there’s debate as to the origins of broad beans, most modern historians tend to agree that falafel was indeed likely born in Egypt. It has been traced to the country’s Coptic Christians, who used it to replace meat during Lent. Such dishes were known as ‘\u003Cem\u003Emuzawwarat’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means ‘counterfeit dishes’, because they did not contain meat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Nasrallah agrees falafel is likely to have originated in Egypt, she feels the whole discussion has become too politicised.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I don’t think dishes can be owned","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t tend to think of food in this narrow, nationalistic way,” she said. “Of course, the Israelis adopted it as one of the national dishes, but I don’t think dishes can be owned… I think food belongs to a region.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMost would agree that food is far too subjective for definitives like ‘best in the world’, but the brisk business being done by hundreds of taameya vendors all over Cairo testifies that Egyptians are in little doubt over the eminence of their broad bean-based formula. And as I bit through the doughy aish baladi bread to discover the toothsome crunch within, I found it hard to disagree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-07-16T21:23:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Does Egypt have the best falafel in the world?","headlineShort":"Is this the world’s best falafel?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gone are the chickpeas so ubiquitous in most other countries; here, the main ingredient is broad beans, which fry better and result in a lighter, fluffier take on the popular snack.","summaryShort":"‘It’s all down to the taste and texture’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-07-15T20:24:56.425166Z","entity":"article","guid":"576815fe-24c8-4714-a3b9-cffbc87e2040","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:17:31.726629Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","_id":"616ff65345ceed33326aa108","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbahira-amin"],"bodyIntro":"Nubian filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is reclaiming the power of narrative by connecting younger generations to their language and culture that was lost in their drowned ancestral land.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the opening lines of a forgotten song called Mshkomsy, 70-year-old Haseeba is transported back to her childhood on the banks of the Nile in southern Egypt. Two hundred kilometres north of her drowned ancestral land, Haseeba's daughter Hafsa has asked her to sing something in Kenzi (also known as Mattokki) – one of two Nubian languages spoken in Egypt along with Fadicca – and from somewhere deep in her memory, Haseeba extracts part of the song she loved when she was young.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fw.soundcloud.com\u002Fplayer\u002F?url=https%3A\u002F\u002Fapi.soundcloud.com\u002Ftracks\u002F1129118764&color=%23ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&show_teaser=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"BBC Travel\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E · \u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"Haseeba Singing Mshkomsy\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\u002Fhaseeba-singing-mshkomsy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaseeba Singing Mshkomsy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09wmp7y.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because even though I set out to preserve my heritage, which I could see disappearing bit by bit, I keep discovering that there's so much more beauty in Nubia that we still don't know about.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Hafsa Amberkab, filmmaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EI watch the boat come from afar, sails and flags rippling in the air. Where could I ever find another? I miss Nubia, I miss the mountains of Nubia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" the septuagenarian translates the only lines she remembers from an unrecorded song by Nubian artist Abdo El Saghirfor her daughter, filmmaker and organiser Hafsa Amberkab, whose chosen surname honours her family's ancestral home: the village of Amberkab. In 2019, Amberkab was making her first documentary exploring her Nubian heritage. Though she thought herself fluent in Kenzi, she didn't know her native tongue had a word for 'I miss': \u003Cem\u003Emshkomsy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Haseeba was a young girl in the 1950s, Amberkab was still a few years away from being flooded by the construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1964, which resulted in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fdams-ap-top-news-international-news-abdel-fattah-el-sissi-cultures-caa9384544df4f708de44f7be9a78221\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etens of thousands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of people displaced, and 44 Nubian villages submerged behind the mammoth megaproject.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndigenous to southern Egypt and northern Sudan, Nubians of the eastern Sahara have been closely connected to Egypt for millennia. The Twenty-Fifth Dynasty, for instance, consisted of Nubian pharaohs from the Kingdom of Kush who ruled Ancient Egypt in the 7th Century BCE. Though the foundation of modern Egypt included the area known as Lower Nubia, the ethno-linguistic group, which now mainly lives north of Lake Nasser (called Lake Nubia south of the Sudanese border), is historically and culturally distinct from other communities in Egypt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor thousands of years, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture – though rituals, ceremonies, music and economy – until 1964, when most villages, including Amberkab, were resettled into the government project Nasr El-Nuba, in the land-bound desert near Kom Ombo, 70km northeast of the High Dam. The initial relocation also led to thousands leaving for big cities like Cairo, Alexandria and Suez in search of opportunities. Others immigrated out of the country, creating diaspora communities in the Gulf countries, North America, Europe and Australia. Known colloquially as \"Nubian\", both Kenzi\u002FMattokki and Fadicca, which is also spoken in northern Sudan, have fallen into relative disuse as people dispersed and intermingled with non-Nubian communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wmpd8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"For millennia, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Nasr El-Nuba, stories of ancestral lands like Haseeba's are cherished by an aging generation, who hold a tighter grasp on the language, despite being completely disconnected from the Nile. Conversely, those closer to the city of Aswan, 50km to the south, who still live by the river and work in tourism have kept some Nubian customs alive by marketing them as touristic experiences. (The Nile crocodile, a culturally significant symbol of strength, can be seen in shallow pits in many Nubian guesthouses.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"mshkomsy\", and Amberkab's ignorance of it, is emblematic of the state of Nubian languages today: even those that do speak them often have glaring gaps in their knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The more songs my mother sang, the more we explored, and the more we realised I didn't know,\" Amberkab recalled. Camera in hand, the young filmmaker set out on an odyssey to find all she didn't know about her home and heritage and share it with the next generation of Nubian youth through Koma Waidi, an Aswan-based education initiative focused on workshops and heritage documentation, which means \"tales of the past\" in Kenzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\"\u003EA superfood fit for a pharaoh\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EDoes Egypt have the world's best falafel?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI met Amberkab on the sun-baked roof of a guesthouse on Elephantine Island, a two-minute boat ride across from Aswan. We took respite from the heat, watched the boats pass over the shimmering river, and contemplated the fear and wonder of crocodile taxidermy – strewn about the owner's collection of antiques lay 3m-long stuffed and mounted crocodiles. Above them, display shelves held delicate wooden carvings of traditional Nubian houses, a cabinet housed vintage 16mm cameras and British pocket-watches, and a wall was piled high with traditional clay pots, old wooden containers and a few mass-produced souvenirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab was deep in conversation with 13-year-old Koma Waidi participants Samaa Merghany and Doha Tarek, who had joined us to talk about their experience learning to make documentaries about their heritage. Picking up item after item from the guesthouse's shelves behind her, Amberkab taught the teenagers about the old barter economy, marriage rituals and how to make traditional kohl, the eyeliner prevalent in cultures across the Middle East, South Asia and parts of Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wmnvc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hafsa Amberkab explains Nubia's traditional barter economy to Tarek and Merghany","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe whole conversation took place in Arabic, not Kenzi, which none of the girls – Samaa, Doha or 18-year-old Koma Waidi volunteer Shahd El-Rawy – speak. \"Here on the island, because we're so close to the city, we're very assimilated,\" explained El-Rawy. \"Our parents and grandparents speak the language, but the new generation usually only understands it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis language gap is due to displacement, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgeographic.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F140131-egypt-nubia-dams-nile-constitution-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural marginalisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and, according to Amberkab and the three students, a perceived correlation between assimilation and career success. Amberkab also explained that parents don't want their children to be made fun of at school for being different, especially if they already have Nubian features, which tend to include a darker complexion than the average Egyptian, already marking them as \"other\" in a prevalent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fap-top-news-international-news-poverty-sudan-immigration-50f901e74759384266bf6a189805c8f2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanti-black society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If I could go back in time, knowing why he didn't want to teach me, I would defend my right to learn","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the only Nubian family in an Arabic-speaking neighbourhood and school, Merghany's father didn't want her to be outcast, but now the teenager is resolved to embrace her identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's who I am, how could I not know something like that?\" Merghany exclaimed in a shy but resolute tone. \"It's my language, it should be my mother tongue. If I could go back in time, knowing why he didn't want to teach me, I would defend my right to learn. I wouldn't ever let anyone make fun of me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking around Elephantine Island, as we spoke of agricultural lands long gone and submerged Nubian mountains only visible by their summits, we never steered far from the Nile. But today, according to Amberkab, only nine Nubian villages remain on the banks of the river, and the most robust experience of Nubian culture for outsiders is around Aswan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the popular Nubian village Gharb Suhail, a 30-minute boat ride south-west of Aswan, brightly-coloured houses market authentic homestays, owners advertise crocodile visits and bustling markets overflow with piles of spices against the hotels and lodges that bear Nubian names. During the high season from October to March, restaurants and guesthouses will host live music and dance performances, where local bands perform Nubian folk music. Much of what is on display isn't truly representative of Nubian culture, but rather the fulfilment of what tourists expect to see, including long-held Egyptian stereotypes of the smiling, singing, good-natured Nubian, a trope El-Rawy tells me the young generation is exceedingly tired of.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wmrbz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is connecting younger generations to their Nubian culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab's aim is to go beyond these tired tropes, both by reclaiming the power of narrative through filmmaking and by providing younger generations with points of connection to their Nubian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince 2018, Koma Waidi has organised the annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgate.ahram.org.eg\u002FNews\u002F2447765.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuardians of the Nile festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, centred around this affinity with the river, where Nubian children learn about and race modern versions of traditional \u003Cem\u003Egereidy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E boats through the same waters that their ancestors paddled through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps her most impactful activity has been a documentary film festival, where Amberkab brought in filmmakers from around Egypt to teach Nubian teenagers how to make documentaries about their heritage. The winning film, \u003Cem\u003EAno\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"grandfather\" in Kenzi) by Merghany and Tarek's team, features a young Nubian girl who discovers an old photo album. Curious, she goes down to the docks to ask her grandfather and his fellow boatmen about their community's history of sailing the Nile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMerghany and Tarek beam as they showed me the film, and it was easy to see how the pair – along with the rest of their filmmaking teenage cohort – can usher in a new generation of Nubian filmmakers. For Amberkab, this is integral to her mission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I can't possibly document everything myself","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't possibly document everything myself,\" said Amberkab. \"Even with 20 people, I could never know a fraction of the stories that can be told about Nubia. But when we invest in a generation or two like this one, they won't need me. Every one of their phones turns into a camera.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book The Nubian Language: How We Write It, Dr Mukhtar Khalil Kabbara – who pioneered modern Nubian orthography, and passed just before the book's publication – leaves an intangible will for those that succeed him. \"It is the duty of those that care for Nubian heritage, the sons and daughters of Nubia as well as others who are interested, to preserve this valuable and endangered heritage for humanity,\" he wrote. \"This is the imperative responsibility that rests on the shoulders of the next generations, for the next generations, in Nubia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's Amberkab's generation that Kabbara refers to, who are now carrying the torch for those that will succeed her in turn. The filmmaker is part of a generation of Nubian advocates, organisers, artists and researchers who are documenting, reviving and celebrating their home and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wmph6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sailboats pass over the shimmering Nile","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We try to correct misconceptions about Nubians and Nubia that are unfortunately very common,\" said Mohamed Kamal, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nubiangeographic.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENubian Geographic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a virtual museum on Nubian culture. \"It's on us to address media misrepresentation, and offer our own perspectives on our own heritage, instead of others doing it for us.\" What started for Kamal as a Facebook page in 2015 has since expanded into research coordination, outreach and on-ground programming. In 2018, they launched Nubian Heritage Month, which is commemorated every year in July by a large network of social media users, institutions and initiatives dedicated to Nubian heritage conservation and revival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome, like Amberkab, are barely 100km away from their ancestral land. Others, like software programmer Momen Talosh, who developed the mobile application Nubi as a way for tech-savvy Nubian children to learn their language, are in cities like Alexandria, where displaced Nubians relocated in search of opportunities. And still others, like the team behind London-based Taras Press' upcoming collection of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.middleeasteye.net\u002Fdiscover\u002Fnubian-sudan-egypt-books-discovering-language-new-generation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efour illustrated children's books\u003C\u002Fa\u003E promoting Old Nubian script and preserving Nubian visual culture, are strewn halfway across the world, but intimately connected to memories and dreams of home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fw.soundcloud.com\u002Fplayer\u002F?url=https%3A\u002F\u002Fapi.soundcloud.com\u002Ftracks\u002F1129120153&color=%23ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&show_teaser=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"BBC Travel\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E · \u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"Hafsa Singing Mshkomsy\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\u002Fhafsa-singing-mshkomsy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHafsa Singing Mshkomsy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn hour's drive away from her ancestral home, Amberkab now only speaks to her mother in Kenzi. Her grasp on the language and its history, which has been steadily deepening over the years, is such that she spent a full five minutes explaining the layers of meaning behind the single verse that started her odyssey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab tracked down singer Abdo El-Saghir in Alexandria to learn the rest of the song. The flags mentioned in it are actually \u003Cem\u003Etarrada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a fringed piece of fabric woven by Nubian sailors to mark their boats, which El-Saghir imagines hitting windows in the houses of his childhood as they pass, carried by the strong unimpeded wind, as \u003Cem\u003Edabes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– a freshwater fish native to the area – jump through the shallow waters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EWhere could I ever find another like this? I miss it,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" sung Amberkab, with both nostalgia and hope in a remembered song.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-15"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-23T13:01:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The woman reviving Egypt's Nubian heritage","headlineShort":"A revival of Egypt's Nubian culture","image":["p09wmpm0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"24.0866648","longitude":"32.8688361,14z","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","promoImage":["p09wmpm0"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nubian filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is reclaiming the power of narrative by connecting younger generations to their language and culture that was lost in their drowned ancestral land.","summaryShort":"\"I would defend my right to learn\"","tag":["tag\u002Flanguage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-22T13:26:39.931062Z","entity":"article","guid":"f6309133-acda-44bc-b0ec-15588c51068e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T13:30:43.414301Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fegypt"],"destinationStat":"africa_egypt","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing","_id":"616ff65345ceed34432477a4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In this secluded kingdom, a secret incense formula believed to promote healing and happiness is known by only two people.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09c98nt.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because incense invokes peace of mind, and that is the basis of happiness. So with every incense wand I make, I can share that happiness with the world.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Nado, incense maker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe bare-breasted woman was standing on one leg in a field of flowers. She wore a golden crown and a necklace of rubies and emeralds; in her right hand she held a single, smoking wand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"That's Dugpoema, the Buddhist goddess of incense offering,\" said Nado, pointing to the screen print of the deity on his office wall in the Bhutanese capital of Thimphu. \"It is said that the Lord Buddha first created incense, then disciples such as Dugpoema disseminated it around the world. In many ways I feel like a disciple myself. I am doing the same work.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENado – his only name, since the Bhutanese do not traditionally use surnames – then offered to show me around his incense-making workshop, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nadopoizokhang.com\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENado Poizokhang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The oldest and largest of its kind in the country, it produces sticks and powders that are sought-after in homes and monasteries across the Himalayan kingdom. Even the king personally requests incense from Nado Poizokhang to burn within the walls of the royal palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe one of the reasons my incense is so well-regarded and its effects are so powerful is because of the incredible purity of the ingredients,\" Nado said, before opening the door to a storeroom piled high with dried spices, botanicals and evergreens. \"Everything is 100% organic: from the great boughs of juniper – the base ingredient in all Bhutanese incense – to the most delicate of jatamansi flowers that render the richly scented essential oil spikenard. Other incense makers may use chemicals and low-grade materials to cut costs – but that just weakens the healing properties of incense and can leave you with a headache or feeling agitated upon burning. Here the focus is on quality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany of the medicinal plants and leaves that Nado uses are harvested by nomadic yak herders at high altitudes to ensure that they are free of toxins and contaminants. \"They live a hard life, but the harvest provides them with extra income,\" he said. \"That good deed sets ripples of good karma in motion before a single stick is made or burned.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In Bhutan, burning incense is an almost compulsory ritual","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe timing of the harvest is key. Nado explained that the optimal period is the month after \u003Cem\u003EThrue-Bab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the Blessed Rainy Day, which marks the end of the monsoon. \"During that time, the sun warms the leaves and petals after they've been nourished by months of rain; it helps me produce a wonderful, rich perfume. And that perfume is vital in order for incense sticks and powder to work their age-old magic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe offering of scent and smoke has a long history and a deep cultural significance in Bhutan, where it is traditionally burned twice daily. \"In other countries, incense may be used solely for ceremonies, but in Bhutan it's also how we start and end each day,\" said Nado. \"It's an almost compulsory ritual.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo this day, incense is still utilised as it has been for centuries, in one of two ways: powder or stick. The powdered version is the smokier of the two and is burned on hot embers in homes, monasteries and temples. It is used as both an offering to the gods and as a fumigant to cleanse sacred rooms and holy objects, placate malicious spirits, and eradicate negative energy. Incense sticks are similarly used to make offerings, but they are also burned for their therapeutic properties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The gentle release of scented smoke nourishes the mind and stimulates the senses,\" said Nado. \"That brings about pleasure and, in turn, mental tranquillity. My own recipe for incense can do all that, but also free blocked energy and cure many kinds of sickness, too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210202-hong-kongs-guardian-of-the-gods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's guardian of the gods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHunting the blue Yeti of Bhutan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170306-the-scent-thats-pricier-than-gold\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe scent that's pricier than gold\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENado's all-natural formula for good health and happiness remains a tightly guarded secret known only to him and his daughter, Lamdon. He explained that it is based on a widely known recipe from the Mindrolling Tibetan Bhuddist Monastery in India that is more than 350 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I've adapted it though, because the original quantities of saffron were so great that today it would make the incense extremely expensive and out of reach for ordinary people,\" he said. \"I've also blended it with another recipe from the Drukpa Kagyu school of Buddhism to enhance the perfume and maximise its healing powers. I use some 30 ingredients in my regular incense, and 108 in the version reserved for important religious ceremonies. The number 108 is auspicious for Buddhists and this special version can only be made on a holy day, according to Buddhist astrological charts.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo make the incense, the various ingredients (including bark, spices, woodchips, flowers and leaves) are powdered in the workshop's milling room. While the team members who help with this stage know roughly what goes into making incense, they don't know the exact proportions, Nado explained. \"And they certainly don't know what's in the cup that I put in at the end.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat he does reveal is that the powder intended for direct burning is mixed with extra medicinal herbs to guarantee more smoke before being sent for packaging; while the powder for sticks is blended with water, honey and a natural purple dye to form a dough that is left to gently ferment in a large vat for up to a week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Burning incense is as important as the food that we eat, the water we drink and the air that we breathe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I think of it like a treasure chest,\" Nado said, slowly lifting the lid to allow me to peek inside and inhale the yeasty-floral aroma. \"Many people would love to get their hands on the riches inside.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the dough ferments, Nado and his team keep close watch over it, since it is easy for a batch to spoil. \"It's why so much we do here is done by hand. It is craftsmanship, not mass production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENado then led me to the extruding room to see the next stage of the stick-making process. There, Gyenzang, one of Nado's team of 12 female production workers, was feeding handfuls of fermented dough into the hopper of a machine that transformed the clay-like paste into spools of soft incense within seconds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Making incense is a process that must come from the heart,\" she said, catching the plum-coloured coils on a tray as they spilled from the extruder's nozzles. \"This is a job that all of us love dearly. None of us received a good education; we'd have otherwise struggled to find work if it weren't for Nado,\" she added, before passing the tray to her co-worker, Yeshey, for straightening.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The job is empowering,\" said Yeshey, as she rolled the incense out flat along the edge of a wooden block. \"We can earn money and feel independent from our husbands and our families. The work has given us all greater self-esteem. We feel the benefit of Nado's kindness and are happy to know that all of the good deeds and positivity involved in the incense-making process will be passed on to the finished product and the people that burn it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter straightening is complete, the incense sticks are sent to be air-dried in the attic, then trimmed to size and tied into bundles ready for market. \"We make around 20,000 wands and 350kg of powder a month,\" Nado said. \"We now export to as far away as China, the US and the UK. But while this is a business that earns me a living, money in no way precedes the spiritual importance of what I do. Making incense has been part of my Buddhist devotion for more than 50 years. It is my calling. And it gives me great personal satisfaction because I see with my own eyes how the people benefit from incense. Come with me, I'll show you.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Within just a single stick there is enormous power","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENado and I set off down the forested hillside towards the centre of Thimphu, and en route, he told me how he had discovered his purpose in life. \"I joined the monkhood at 15 and stayed for 10 years,\" he said. \"I excelled at calligraphy, and when the third King of Bhutan asked for the Buddhist canon to be written in gold script, I was recruited for the task. After I'd finished, I wanted to find something equally fulfilling that mixed the creative with the sacred, and that led me on the path to making incense.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn downtown Thimphu we entered the vast Centenary Farmer's Market; its ground floor dedicated to fruit and vegetables, the upper level filled with incense products that promised to relieve abdominal pain, aid relaxation and assist in carrying out exorcisms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt one stall we chatted with a woman named Choden, who often burned Nado's incense in the temple shrine near her home and was purchasing a fresh supply of scented wands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Just as I brush my teeth, I also burn three incense sticks in the morning and three at night,\" she said. \"I would feel incomplete if I didn't do it. It is a ritual that was passed down to me by my ancestors, and I have passed it on to my children. Burning incense is as important as the food that we eat, the water we drink and the air that we breathe. It is a practice that unites us all – rich and poor.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe continued to a monastery that Nado supplies with his incense. There, in a sunlit prayer room, a monk was gently swinging a censer, the aromatic smoke spilling from its perforated lid to permeate the air and infiltrate the folds of his garments. \"When I perform the \u003Cem\u003Epuja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a cleansing ceremony using burning powder) it removes any negative energy from the room and makes me feel spiritually, bodily and mentally clean,\" he said. \"Incense helps me focus my mind for prayer and develop as a human being. It helps me to become the best possible version of myself.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDown the corridor in a study room, a group of monks were sitting cross-legged with their shaved heads buried deep inside their prayer books, each with a smoking wand by their side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe that within just a single stick there is enormous power,\" said one of the monks, named Wangchuk. Nado nodded in agreement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Incense can remove bad omens and obstacles from the path of life,\" Wangchuk continued. \"It creates a way for people to be kinder to each other. Incense is a key that can open the door to happiness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing-21"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-01T12:03:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bhutan's 350-year-old recipe for wellbeing","headlineShort":"A tightly guarded Himalayan secret","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"27.4661","longitude":"89.6419","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In this secluded kingdom, a secret incense formula believed to promote healing and happiness is known by only two people.","summaryShort":"It's a key that can \"open the door to happiness\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-03-31T12:07:50.568228Z","entity":"article","guid":"39bcf4a0-5a22-4fc2-9e71-2678787ed16b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:05:52.994006Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan","_id":"616ff64e45ceed21716d3b33","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once thought to be a Himalayan myth, Bhutan’s national flower is a once-in-a-lifetime find.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a clear day, the entire Jomolhari Range – including Bhutan’s second highest peak and one of the country’s most sacred places – should be visible from where I was standing. But on that cold and gloomy June afternoon, all I could see were a blinding mist and grey skies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was on the 3,780m-high Chele La mountain pass in west Bhutan, and despite the ominous monsoon weather, my guide Raj Lama sent me hiking up yet another trail to try to get a better view. I was not impressed, and I let him know.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELama and I often argued during my week-long stay in the Himalayan Kingdom. One of our first arguments, in fact, was over Lama’s belief that Indian girls are not good hikers. I proved him wrong, trekking to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20140707-trekking-to-bhutans-tigers-nest\"\u003ETiger’s Nest Monastery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with considerable ease the previous day. And in a “watch-what-you-wish-for” moment, that’s how I ended up on a nondescript trail with obscured views that afternoon, fielding subsequent prompts to hike every possible trail around.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut as it turned out, the constant bickering had an upside: it led me to one of the rarest flowers on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBhutan’s national flower, Meconopsis Grandis, or Himalayan blue poppy as is it popularly known, is a flower so enchantingly blue that it instantly commands undivided attention. Growing only above the tree line in a harsh high altitude environment of 3,500m to 4500m, it blooms just once during the monsoon between late May to July, after which it disperses its seeds and dies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis bloom is so rare, in fact, that it was once thought to be a Himalayan myth, like the Yeti. Its presence in Bhutan was only confirmed in 1933 by botanist George Sherriff, and to this day, it evokes similar intrigue to the snow leopard – the ghost of the Himalayas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I reluctantly trudged my way further up the misty mountain towards the western ridge above Chele La, hundreds of large white Darchor prayer flags fluttered in the fierce winds that buffeted the exposed slopes. The lush pine forest that covered every inch of these pristine mountains had been cleared here. Instead, small and dense shrubs packed the landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWalking along the trailside, annoyed at my cold, wet mission, I suddenly noticed a profusion of orange and yellow bell-shaped blooms growing on dwarf rhododendron bushes. As I traipsed on, I found myself gaping at thousands of those same flowers drooping gracefully from the hundreds of shrubs that lined the entire slope. When I turned my gaze away from the rhododendrons, vivid bursts of yellow, white and purple caught my eye: I had just walked into a patch of primulas and primroses. To my right, bright yellow piptanthus contrasted the dull sky. For the first time since arriving in Bhutan more than five days ago, the opulence of the country’s floral diversity was apparent. Of course, I should have expected nothing less from a Himalayan Kingdom that has set aside 60% of its land as protected nature reserves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI have always been an ardent admirer of wildflowers. To me, the blooms epitomise the untamed elegance of nature and remind me of my childhood dreams full of meadows carpeted with colourful blossoms. Lost in this reverie, I trod lightly in an attempt to not crush any of these delicate beauties – when a bright burst of blue stopped me in my tracks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EObscured under a thick shrub between the wildflowers, a large cerulean bloom with a dazzling amber core hung delicately from a 60cm-tall slender green stalk. Its fragile beauty and unexpected hue startled me. The blue was as deep as the late afternoon Himalayan skies on a bright sunny day. There were at least 10 more such flowers around, some fresh and others more withered, but the colour of the petals was striking on them all. As I gazed on, time passed as though in a dream. Without even realizing, I had already spent close to an hour engrossed in my serendipitous encounter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll annoyances forgotten, I cheerfully scampered back to the road where Lama was waiting, without an inkling of the rare privilege I had been blessed with. At that point, I had no idea it was the Himalayan Blue Poppy. I was just captivated by the intense colour, an effect I later learned it is often known to have on unwitting observers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs much as I enjoy wildflowers, I have little knowledge of them and simply take pleasure in their fleeting beauty. To me, a blue poppy could have been just as enticing as an orchid. But of the many beautiful flowers that grew in that small patch, none held my attention for as long as the blue poppy did – a true testament to its inescapable allure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater that evening, when we arrived at Haa Valley on the other side of Chele La, I read up on the flower and learned about its significance. When I learnt how uncommon it was to spot a Himalayan Blue Poppy in the wild, I couldn’t help but smile at the strange quarrels with my guide and the incredulity of the circumstances that landed me at that exact location at exactly the right time. I’d found the mythical Himalayan Blue Poppy in a country steeped in mysticism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan-9"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2015-08-10T21:43:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Hunting the blue Yeti of Bhutan","headlineShort":"Hunting a Himalayan myth","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once thought to be a Himalayan myth, Bhutan’s national flower is a once-in-a-lifetime find.","summaryShort":"A chance trail leads to a once-in-a-lifetime find","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2015-08-10T03:58:20.832877Z","entity":"article","guid":"425122e5-9946-4acb-92c0-b2e5d1a335a7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:01:29.417192Z","project":"travel","slug":"20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness","_id":"616ff63b45ceed276209eafd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Citizens of one of the happiest countries on Earth are surprisingly comfortable contemplating a topic many prefer to avoid. Is that the key to joy?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a visit to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, I found myself sitting across from a man named Karma Ura, spilling my guts. Maybe it was the fact that he was named Karma, or the thin air, or the way travel melts my defences, but I decided to confess something very personal. Not that long before, seemingly out of the blue, I had experienced some disturbing symptoms: shortness of breath, dizziness, numbness in my hands and feet. At first, I feared I was having a heart attack, or going crazy. Maybe both. So I went to the doctor, who ran a series of tests and found...\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nothing,” said Ura. Even before I could complete my sentence, he knew that my fears were unfounded. I was not dying, at least not as quickly as I feared. I was having a panic attack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat I wanted to know was: why now – my life was going uncharacteristically well – and what could I do about it?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You need to think about death for five minutes every day,” Ura replied. “It will cure you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“How?” I said, dumbfounded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It is this thing, this fear of death, this fear of dying before we have accomplished what we want or seen our children grow. This is what is troubling you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“But why would I want to think about something so depressing?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rich people in the West, they have not touched dead bodies, fresh wounds, rotten things. This is a problem. This is the human condition. We have to be ready for the moment we cease to exist.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPlaces, like people, have a way of surprising us, provided we are open to the possibility of surprise and not weighed down with preconceived notions. The Himalayan kingdom is best known for its innovative policy of Gross National Happiness; it’s a land where contentment supposedly reigns and sorrow is denied entry. Bhutan is indeed a special place (and Ura, director of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bhutanstudies.org.bt\u002F\"\u003Ethe Centre for Bhutan Studies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a special person) but that specialness is more nuanced and, frankly, less sunny than the dreamy Shangri-La image we project onto it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EActually, by suggesting I think about death once a day, Ura was going easy on me. In Bhutanese culture, one is expected to think about death five times a day. That would be remarkable for any nation, but especially for one so closely equated with happiness as Bhutan. Is this secretly a land of darkness and despair?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot necessarily. Some recent research suggests that, by thinking about death so often, the Bhutanese may be on to something. In a 2007 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpss.sagepub.com\u002Fcontent\u002F18\u002F11\u002F984\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, University of Kentucky psychologists Nathan DeWall and Roy Baumesiter divided several dozen students into two groups. One group was told to think about a painful visit to the dentist while the other group was instructed to contemplate their own death. Both groups were then asked to complete stem words, such as “jo_”. The second group – the one that had been thinking about death – was far more likely to construct positive words, such as “joy”. This led the researchers to conclude that “death is a psychologically threatening fact, but when people contemplate it, apparently the automatic system begins to search for happy thoughts”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENone of this, I’m sure, would surprise Ura, or any other Bhutanese. They know that death is a part of life, whether we like it or not, and ignoring this essential truth comes with a heavy psychological cost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELinda Leaming, author of the wonderful book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FField-Guide-Happiness-Learned-Bhutan\u002Fdp\u002F1401945090\u002Fref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427380737&sr=8-1&keywords=linda+leaming\"\u003EA Field Guide to Happiness: What I Learned in Bhutan About Living, Loving and Waking Up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E¸ \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eknows this too.“I realised thinking about death doesn’t depress me. It makes me seize the moment and see things I might not ordinarily see,” she wrote. “My best advice: go there. Think the unthinkable, the thing that scares you to think about several times a day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike many of us in the West, the Bhutanese don’t sequester death. Death – and images of death – are everywhere, especially in Buddhist iconography where you’ll find colourful, gruesome illustrations. No one, not even children, is sheltered from these images, or from ritual dances re-enacting death.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERitual provides a container for grief, and in Bhutan that container is large and communal. After someone dies, there’s a 49-day mourning period that involves elaborate, carefully orchestrated rituals. “It is better than any antidepressant,” Tshewang Dendup, a Bhutanese actor, told me. The Bhutanese might appear detached during this time. They are not. They are grieving through ritual.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhy such a different attitude toward death? One reason the Bhutanese think about death so often is that it is all around them. For a small nation, it offers many ways to die. You can meet your demise on the winding, treacherous roads. You can be mauled by a bear; eat poisonous mushrooms; or die of exposure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother explanation is the country’s deeply felt Buddhist beliefs, especially that of reincarnation. If you know you’ll get another shot at life, you’re less likely to fear the end of this particular one. As Buddhists say, you shouldn’t fear dying any more than you fear discarding old clothes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhich isn’t to say, of course, that the Bhutanese don’t experience fear, or sadness. Of course they do. But, as Leaming told me, they don’t flee from these emotions. “We in the West want to fix it if we’re sad,” she said. “We fear sadness. It’s something to get over, medicate. In Bhutan there’s an acceptance. It’s a part of life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUra’s lesson, meanwhile, stuck with me. I make it a point to think about death once a day. Unless I find myself especially stressed, or engulfed in an unexplained funk. Then I think about it twice a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEric Weiner is a recovering malcontent and philosophical traveler. He is the author of, among other books, The Geography of Bliss and the forthcoming The Geography of Genius. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Feric_weiner\"\u003EFollow him on Twitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhere do you rank in our tribe of worldly readers? Answer these questions to get a sense.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"792px\" name=\"os_frame\" src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.opinionstage.com\u002Fsets\u002F2156340\u002Fiframe\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" style=\"border: none; max-width: 1200px;\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2015-04-08T20:05:42.767Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bhutan’s dark secret to happiness","headlineShort":"Bhutan’s dark secret to happiness","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Citizens of one of the happiest countries on Earth are surprisingly comfortable contemplating a topic many prefer to avoid. Is that the key to joy?","summaryShort":"Can contemplating death lead to joy?","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2015-04-17T02:15:28.309724Z","entity":"article","guid":"995455c8-de93-48ee-bda3-891e24a84030","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T22:56:50.270359Z","project":"travel","slug":"20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness","_id":"616ff66145ceed3a505cf333","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri"],"bodyIntro":"As the Kingdom of Bhutan opens its borders, a Buddhist monk shares his secrets for understanding the nation's unique approach to happiness.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Happiness is the concern of everyone,\" said His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche. \"Whether or not you acknowledge it, this is the purpose of every human being.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Fifth Reincarnate and head of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkhedrupfoundation.org\u002Fsangchen-ogyen-tsuklag-monastery-trongsa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESangchen Ogyen Tsuklag Monastery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Trongsa, Bhutan, Rinpoche knows all about the pursuit of happiness. Ascending to his position at the age of 19 in 2009, he was one of the youngest ever Rinpoches (spiritual master) in Bhutan at the time. Now 31, he has dedicated the last 12 years of his life to teaching the world about Buddhist principles and how they can be applied to make life happier every day, regardless of one's culture or religion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09whcp6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESandwiched between the economic and political powerhouses of China and India, with a population of just more than 760,000, the Kingdom of Bhutan is known around the globe for its unconventional measure of national development: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gnhcentrebhutan.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGross National Happiness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (GNH). The concept was implemented in 1972 by the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Eschewing traditional economic quantifications, Bhutan assesses its country's overall wellbeing on the basis of sustainable and equitable socio-economic development; environmental conservation; preservation and promotion of culture; and good governance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Gross National Happiness is [a] set of collective conditions; one that [is] generally needed to live a good life,\" said Rinpoche.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore the pandemic, Rinpoche journeyed around the world giving lectures and workshops through his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.neykor.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENeykor Initiative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He was also working to build the first \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkhedrupfoundation.org\u002Fogyen-tsuklag-buddhist-academy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBuddhist Academy in Bhutan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that will be open to anyone interested in learning about Buddhist philosophy, regardless of background or religion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everything I was doing was put on hold. I decided to see this as an opportunity to deepen my own experience and isolate myself,\" Rinpoche said. \"I went to the mountains and lived there with very little food, in harsh weather conditions, with no shelter but a cave. It gave me the time to truly imbibe my own teachings. What became very clear was that true happiness has nothing to do with external phenomena; it is innate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09wh07c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf course, Rinpoche stressed that one does not need to go to such extremes to find peace: \"We must stop searching for happiness in experiences outside ourselves. There are, in my opinion, four pillars: loving kindness, compassion, non-attachment and karma, that can be easily embraced by any one at any point in their lives, from anywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Rinpoche, loving kindness \"is the key to generating happiness not just on a personal level, but for others as well.\" He stressed the importance of being kind to yourself first and how this leads to compassion to others. \"You must love yourself and truly know, that no matter the circumstance, you are good enough. From there, you can spread that [compassion] to others.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBhutan's 350-year-old recipe for wellbeing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210511-japans-mountain-ascetic-hermits\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's mountain ascetic hermits \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-where-buddha-was-born\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere Buddha was born\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChunjur Dozi, a former tour guide, believes that Bhutan's sense of collective compassion is rooted in religion. \"We have a strong communal sense of helping others, which comes from most of the population being Buddhist. I always consider if what I do will benefit the community.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter no longer being able to work as a guide during the pandemic, Dozi reevaluated his perspective and returned to his village of Tekizampa in May of 2020. \"The most difficult for me was coping with losing a job that I thought was secure,\" he said, \"However, I was not without any alternatives. I was able to go back to my village and return to the earth, farming and selling produce.\" He has since used his experience as a tour guide to engage his peers in finding ways to promote local culture to tourists now that the Kingdom has reopened its borders. \"I encouraged people to elaborate our homegrown recipes with red rice to make it as authentic as possible so people can learn about our local cuisine,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09whcv7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERinpoche's third pillar, non-attachment or impermanence, is a Buddhist concept that is at the root of Bhutanese culture. \"When something goes wrong, don't become depressed immediately because things will change,\" Rinpoche said. \"If we accept that all things are impermanent, then that means there can be change, and with change there is hope.\" Rinpoche explained that this also holds true for the positive things in life. \"Accepting that things don't last, including success and wealth, allows you to truly appreciate what you have at hand.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to embracing self-kindness and living compassionately towards others, the pandemic has also reinforced the importance of welcoming change to Dozi. Since returning to his village, he has learned carpentry and has been helping his neighbours repair their homes while embarking on a big communal project. \"We renovated a traditional farmhouse that was abandoned by a family and transformed it into a farm stay. I have been advocating a long time for a more immersive approach to tourism and for people to explore the culture and lifestyle of the more rural areas of Bhutan. At the end of the day, I learned to be happy with what I have and make the best of it.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Rinpoche, the fourth pillar, karma, isn't what it seems. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karma is totally misunderstood. Most people think it means that if you do something bad, then something bad will happen to you, like a form of universal revenge or punishment. It isn't that at all. It is about cause, condition and effect. Accepting that your actions and choices have an impact on the world around you. It is like planting a seed of a tree. If we plant a mango seed, we get a mango tree. We can't plant an apple seed and expect a mango tree to grow!\" he chuckled. \"Believing in karma is an opportunity for you to transform yourself, to shape yourself, to really work on who you want to become and do what you want to achieve.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09whd03"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough Rinpoche asserts that Bhutan is \"incredibly peaceful and has this majestic and pristine natural environment\", he also recognises that the Kingdom has its issues, just like everywhere else. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkuenselonline.com\u002Fincrease-in-prices-of-essentials-remains-unabated\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInflation continues to rise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with the overall consumer price index up by almost 9% in the past year. Food insecurity is also a reality (Bhutan imports about 50% of its food) and the country has seen a nearly 15% hike in food costs. The impact of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.drukasia.com\u002Fbhutan\u002Fupdates-on-covid-19-is-bhutan-safe-to-travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eclosing its borders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from March 2020 through August 2021 also meant that and at least 50,000 individuals working in the tourism industry lost their jobs and livelihoods, like Dozi. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, good governance, one of the cornerstones of GNH, has been crucial to Bhutan's survival throughout the pandemic. The government's swift response to coronavirus' socio-economic impact has been lauded by the international community, as it deferred the payment of taxes and issued financial aid to citizens. Parliament members donated one month's salary to the relief efforts. The government also prioritised the vaccination of its citizens and currently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bhutanfound.org\u002Fnews-information-on-covid-19\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E90.2% of the eligible population\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is fully vaccinated. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What is so special about being Bhutanese is that there is always a united sense of gratitude, communal well-being and national identity,\" added Thinley Choden, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sustainabilitybhutan.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esocial entrepreneur and consultant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09whd6m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChoden believes that part of the reason why the Bhutanese view happiness differently than other cultures is because of their ability to reconcile past and present. \"Bhutanese culture is strongly rooted in our traditions and spiritual values, but we are a very progressive and practical society. Generally, our culture and religion is not prescriptive, and not a black-and-white choice, but rather navigating the middle path in everyday living.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf there was one piece of advice Rinpoche could share with the world it would be this: \"Always remember that the most important thing is to live life in the present moment, and that happiness is not a by-product of external factors, but the result of positively conditioning your mind. Happiness is at the grasp of everyone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-21T14:18:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The key to Bhutan's happiness","headlineShort":"The four pillars of happiness","image":["p09whcp6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.870556","longitude":"90.485558","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09whcp6"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150630-hunting-the-blue-yeti-of-bhutan","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150408-bhutans-dark-secret-to-happiness"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As the Kingdom of Bhutan opens its borders, a Buddhist monk shares his secrets for understanding the nation's unique approach to happiness.","summaryShort":"A Bhutanese monk shares his secrets for lifelong satisfaction","tag":["tag\u002Freligion"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-20T19:56:08.35017Z","entity":"article","guid":"2bc4229a-3a27-4af2-90dd-8a7a90cf7871","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-21T12:16:58.265264Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbhutan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_bhutan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star","_id":"616ff69f45ceed545f3422b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Beneath Chicago’s dizzying skyline and urban parks is an airless, subterranean ‘neighbourhood’ that’s having its moment.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe only sounds came from strip lights fizzing in the ceiling and the slow, eerie echo of footsteps in the distance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAromas of coffee, grease and chlorine mingled in my nostrils as I pushed through heavy double doors, rounding a corner to a dizzyingly long magnolia-coloured corridor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo my right was the ground-floor entrance to Macy’s department store, its food hall, with few customers inside, visible through the glass. Opposite was a different kind of window display – a row of 22 rectangles of American Victorian stained glass, backlit and glowing dramatically from the inky black wall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was exploring Chicago's weirdest neighbourhood, the Pedway – an unlikely candidate for regeneration, and an even less likely design muse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170925-why-milan-is-covering-its-skyscrapers-in-plants\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Milan is covering its skyscrapers in plants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171122-harris-tweed-from-island-cloth-to-cutting-edge-fashion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British fabric that charmed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170817-the-secret-world-of-granadas-alhambra-palace\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret world of an opulent palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMazing for five miles under 40 blocks of The Loop (Chicago’s business district), this network of tunnels connects some of the city’s most famous buildings, including Macy’s, City Hall and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofchicago.org\u002Fcity\u002Fen\u002Fdepts\u002Fdca\u002Fsupp_info\u002Fchicago_culturalcenter.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChicago Cultural Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConstruction began in 1951 to provide safe, weatherproof passage between the buildings, and the hotchpotch of corridors has been built piecemeal ever since. Each section is independently owned and maintained by the corresponding building above, so each section has different lights, even different air temperatures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Most people don’t get it,” said Margaret Hicks, who runs tours of the Pedway with her company \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.chicagoelevated.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChicago Elevated\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “But I just love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Most people don't realise they are in the Pedway","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe stained glass display was installed in December 2013, a joint project between Macy’s and Chicago’s Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows before the latter closed the following October. It was unusual at the time, and it still feels incongruous in this empty subterranean stretch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThose who use the Pedway do so to escape sweltering summers and bitter winters, striding through on their daily commutes and lunch breaks. The busiest part is through Millennium Station, a Metra train hub with a wavy, fluorescent ceiling and floor lined like a race track. Scenes from the Batman film, The Dark Knight, were filmed here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut, Hicks reckons, most people who pass through the station don’t realise they are in the Pedway, or even know what the Pedway is. And it isn’t considered a place to linger, to stop and smell the daisies – or even to admire the daisies intricately fashioned from tiny triangles of glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe stained-glass panels include a gourd overspilling with blooms, a blackbird soaring against a patchwork sky of greys and blues, and an owl in the heart of a bold floral display. Many are by unknown artists but one – Spider Web – was created by renowned stained-glass artist Louis Comfort Tiffany, whose father founded jewellery giant Tiffany & Co. This window has tangles of blushing petals overlapping a watery, ethereal blue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s weird, right?” said Hicks, as we gazed at the display. “I mean, there’s nothing else down here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut that’s changing, as others are learning what Hicks has known for years – that the Pedway’s oddness is oddly alluring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe second \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fchicagoarchitecturebiennial.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChicago Architecture Biennial\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which runs from September 2017 to January 2018, spotted potential in these corridors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBetween the colonnaded entranceways to the Chicago Cultural Center – the main Biennial hub – neon tubes glow behind a panel of glass. Inspired by the Pedway’s fluorescent lighting, the installation hints at this mysterious underground world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Los Angeles architects behind the work, Fiona Connor and Erin Besler, scoured the tunnels, examining fixtures and fittings in granular detail and drawing inspiration from the lighting, the textures and the colour palette of off-white and grey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInside the centre, just behind the vitrine housing the neon installation, an elevator plunges to a section of the Pedway built in 1989.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn arrival, visitors might wonder if they pressed the right button. Stepping out, they are greeted by a mirror image of what lies above. Connor and Besler have painstakingly replicated one of the Cultural Center’s Beaux Arts doorways, right down to its brass patina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy turning the two worlds upside down, this piece and the light installation above ground – collectively titled ‘Front Door’ – highlight their connection and their separateness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The project connects unsuspecting users of the Pedway to the Biennial experience, by acknowledging the presence of a grand civic space in these somewhat forlorn corridors,” said Todd Palmer, Biennial executive director.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What is taken for granted is seen afresh, very much in the spirit of the Biennial theme, ‘Make New History’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELonger term, local nonprofit Environmental Law & Policy Center (ELPC) has raised $125,000 to transform the Pedway into a tourist attraction, and is seeking further investment from local businesses, tourism groups and owners of buildings linked to the tunnels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPlans include a farmers’ market and an underground library with a cafe and cosy reading nooks. Art galleries will be dotted about the tunnels, making the stained glass less of an anomaly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe most ambitious design element is to be displayed above ground in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofchicago.org\u002Fcity\u002Fen\u002Fdepts\u002Fdca\u002Fsupp_info\u002Fmillennium_park.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMillennium Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a glinting glass cube housing a lift to transport people below ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s certainly a step up from the existing entrance points, tucked around shady corners and down escalators that seem to lead into an abyss.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Chicago Pedway can be transformed from an under-utilised asset to a more vibrant part of downtown Chicago","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The Chicago Pedway can be transformed from an under-utilised asset to a more vibrant part of downtown Chicago, better used by Chicagoans and visitors alike,” said ELPC executive director Howard Learner. “Now we're working on finding the best paths to transform this better Pedway vision into reality.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHicks has mixed feelings about all this change. Dubbed ‘Mrs Pedway’, she knows everybody in her favourite locale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere’s the security guards, the shoe shiners, and Bill, a folk guitarist who has been ‘playing the Pedway’ for several years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHicks even lived down there for a week, sleeping at the Fairmont hotel – which has access to the Pedway – meeting friends at Starbucks (there are three of them down here), and using basement entrances to see films, use the gym and dine at restaurants. All without seeing the light of day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I really do think the Pedway is one of Chicago's neighbourhoods. I don't want to see it gentrified,” Hicks said. “Save the weird, you know? Obviously, there is lots of room for improvement in the Pedway – I don't want people to feel lost and confused in it. But what I love about it is its strangeness.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What I love about it is its strangeness","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two other guests on my tour, a Chicagoan and her mother, visiting from out of town, were unfamiliar with the Pedway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I never knew this existed,” the daughter said. “When I heard about the tour, I had to come. It’s just so strange.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHicks is used to that. “Even most locals don’t know about the Pedway,” she said. “They certainly don’t understand it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe weaved our way through the network, tiptoeing down dim stairwells and ducking through doorways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround one corner, photographer Ed sat slumped on a ledge, staring at the wall with glassy eyes. He perked up as we came into view. Then he slumped back, realising we were a tour group rather than a happy couple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEd stoically watches the doors of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cookcountycourt.org\u002FABOUTTHECOURT\u002FMunicipalDepartment\u002FFirstMunicipalDistrictChicago\u002FMarriageandCivilUnion.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarriage Court\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, whose entrance is in the Pedway beneath City Hall, almost every single day, waiting for newlyweds who might pay him to take some portraits. A mounted image of a beaming couple stands at his feet next to a bunch of balloons and a bouquet of flowers, props for a potential photo shoot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome days the corridors are teeming with giddy couples. But on this day, business was quiet. Asked how long Ed might wait there before giving up, Hicks shrugged and whispered: “I’ve never seen him in daylight.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I never knew this existed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we rounded another corner, she added: “I'd love to see more people here in the Pedway, because I want it to grow. I want it to get bigger and bigger.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf it does become one of Chicago’s must-sees, Hicks will be down here as usual – guiding tours, getting to know the new locals and reminiscing about the ‘good old days’, when the only excitement came from hearing a couple of newlyweds, giggling and skipping down the empty corridors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-11-29T17:00:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Chicago's underground city that’s becoming a design star","headlineShort":"A secret world below Chicago","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Beneath Chicago’s dizzying skyline and urban parks is an airless, subterranean ‘neighbourhood’ that’s having its moment.","summaryShort":"‘Even most locals don’t know about the Pedway’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2017-11-28T20:53:18.679922Z","entity":"article","guid":"62f59505-64b0-4216-b928-426f6c60a9e2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:53:33.04578Z","project":"travel","slug":"20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660807},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza","_id":"616ff70545ceed5cc35d3f7d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Starting with an ancient culinary tradition carried overseas by Neapolitan immigrants, pizza has evolved into a Windy City icon.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPizza in the United States is deeply embedded into the nation’s culinary\nconsciousness, from thin crust in New York to wood fired in San Francisco. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Chicago’s version took the concept in a much more indulgent\ndirection, filling a thick crust with inverted layers of cheese, meat and tomatoes,\nall of it creeping up the side of an oiled steel pan. Today, deep-dish pizza is\nas central to the Windy City as Wrigley Field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAn immigrant story\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ETo appreciate the story of deep-dish, you must first look back to the\nPhoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans. Flatbread, the ancestor to the\ncontemporary pizza, was first documented in a Latin text from 997 AD, in southern\nItaly near Lazio, with subsequent references noted throughout the\nMediterranean, from Spain to Greece.\n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fsearch\u002Frecipes?query=pizza+pie\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERelated recipes from BBC Good Food\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the 16\u003Csup\u003Eth\u003C\u002Fsup\u003E Century, modern-day\npizza (from the Italian word \u003Cem\u003Epinsere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\nwhich means to pound or stamp – a reference to the flat dough) began to take\nshape in the Italian city of Naples. The thriving port was home to throngs of\nworking class residents who lived in dense neighbourhoods around the Bay of\nNaples. Small rooms and cramped quarters meant most of their living was done\noutdoors, and people looked for food that was inexpensive and quick to eat. Baked\nin a hot oven and sold street-side, paper-thin pizza became the quintessential fare\nfor the Neapolitan poor. Tomatoes brought back by traders from the New World\ntopped the dough, along with an occasional smattering of anchovies, garlic or\ncheese. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the next decades, pizza grew in popularity, moving beyond Naples\nand spreading across both the country and social strata. In the 17\u003Csup\u003Eth\u003C\u002Fsup\u003E\nCentury, Queen Maria Carolina d'Asburgo Lorena, wife of the then King of\nNaples, Ferdinando IV, famously erected a pizza oven in their summer palace. In\n1889, Neapolitan pizza maker Raffaele Espisito created the infamous Pizza\nMargherita – a simple blend of tomatoes, mozzarella and basil – to honour the\nQueen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, birthing one of the most classic pizzas to\ndate. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChicagoland \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EThroughout the late 1800s and early 1900s, Neapolitan immigrants arrived\nin the US, like many Europeans of that time, in search of factory jobs. Before\nlong, Chicago was home to a thriving community of first and second-generation descendants,\nhungry for the thin pizzas that represented their culture and culinary roots. Eventually\ntwo entrepreneurs, Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo, decided to create something\ndifferent: an Italian-American version of pizza. In 1943, the pair opened \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002F761.unotogo.com\u002Fzgrid\u002Fthemes\u002F7\u002Fportal\u002Findex.jsp\"\u003EPizzeria Uno\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\nin the Chicago’s Near North Side neighbourhood, serving a new style pizza with a\ndeeper dish, crunchier crust and inverted layers – a far cry from the classic\nNeapolitan version. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESlice into a deep-dish pizza and your knife sinks through layers of meat\nand vegetables, thin tomato sauce, dense mozzarella cheese and finally, a resistant\ncracker-like crust. The cake-like pan is first coated in olive oil, then topped\nwith a white and semolina flour dough mixture, which gets pressed against the\ndeep pan’s round bottom and edges. The olive oil slightly fries the dough\nduring the baking process, giving it a distinct golden crunch. Before hitting\nthe oven, a layer of sliced mozzarella is covered with vegetables and meats,\ntypically Italian sausage, then topped with a sweet layer of crushed tomatoes.\nThe inverted layers of ingredients prevent the cheese from burning, while the\nmeat, vegetable, sauce and crust marry their flavours. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EMore like a savoury layer cake, Sewell and Riccardo achieved their dream\nto create a pizza unlike any other. And Chicagoans bit (literally). Soon,\ndeep-dish pizza was no longer considered an immigrant tradition, but a\nChicago-born icon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBirthright: Pizzeria\nUno\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EToday, Pizzeria Uno is a big brand with a changed name, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unos.com\u002F\"\u003EUno Chicago Grill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as well as more than 200\ncookie-cutter chain restaurants from Massachusetts to New Jersey, South Korea\nto Pakistan. But there is something special about stepping into the original location\nin downtown Chicago, still named Pizzeria Uno. Large groups of tourists circle the\nbuilding, waiting for their turn to enter the packed restaurant. Inside it is\ndark and boisterous, with a gilded ceiling, chequered floors and wooden tables.\nShakers of Parmesan cheese, red chilli flakes and oregano sit in empty\ndeep-dish pans on tabletops. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPizza is delivered dense and hot, with the server using the traditional\n“pan gripper”, an industrial-strength tong-meets-wrench tool used exclusively to\ntransport the scalding deep-dish pizza pans. With a heavy spatula, pre-cut\nslices of weighty pizza are dished out. Intense layers of cheese and tomato\nsauce fill the pie-like crust, inches high, to the browned edges. This is\nundeniably a knife-and-fork affair. A few bites satiate, and though it is\ntasty, it is not Chicago’s best. But people come here mostly for the tradition,\nnot the world’s finest slice. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Malnati family\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESeventy years after it opened its doors, Pizzeria Uno still stands as\nthe original home of the deep-dish. And while there is little disagreement that\nthe pizza was first served at here, there is great debate around Sewell and\nRiccardo as its true creators.\n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA particularly muddled detail involves one of Chicago’s most famous\npizza families, the Malnatis. Adolpho “Rudy” Malnati, Sr – a one-time employee at\nPizzeria Uno – claimed that it was his spark of genius that created the recipe.\nHe and Riccardo, according to the Malnati family, would hand out slices of Pizzeria\nUno’s deep-dish on Chicago street corners in the hopes that passersby would\ngive it a taste. Sewell, the Malnatis assert, came later. Records of either\nSewell or Riccardo making pizza, or even showing any ability in the kitchen are\nnoticeably absent, fuelling the claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the Malanti storyline, after Riccardo’s death, Rudy and his\nson, Lou, co-managed Pizzeria Uno until Rudy Malnati, Sr also passed away. Lou\nstruggled to find his place in the restaurant after being told he was an\nemployee, just like everyone else. Frustrated, he abandoned ship to open his\nown restaurant in 1971: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.loumalnatis.com\u002F\"\u003ELou Malnati’s Pizzeria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the North\nShore suburb of Lincolnwood. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELou’s versus Pizano’s\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ELou\nMalnati’s Pizzeria was quick to find success, and has sprouted locations throughout\nChicago and its suburbs. The pizza is noticeably less dense than Pizzeria\nUno’s, with a lighter hand of cheese and tangier crushed tomatoes. The pizza is\nfilled just below the crust’s top edge, leaving more room for its trademarked –\nliterally – Buttercrust. In is this rich crust – a departure from the\ntraditional dough used in deep-dish, which uses oil over butter – quality\ntomatoes and lean sausage come together in perfect, deep-dish harmony, forming their\nsignature pie, The Malnati Chicago Classic (also trademarked). \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story does not end here, however. Lou Malnati had a half brother,\nRudy Jr, who opened his own joint, Pizano’s, in 1991 in downtown Chicago. A\nwaiter at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pizanoschicago.com\u002F\"\u003EPizano’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E divulged that Rudy and\nLou’s mother, Donna Marie, gave Rudy Jr the original recipe developed by Rudy\nSr himself. So while Lou went off to Lincolnwood, Donna Marie spent her nights\nin the kitchen rolling out dough from the secret recipe at Pizano’s. Who is\nusing the original recipe today remains a point of debate. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EBut \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pizanoschicago.com\u002F\"\u003EPizano’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is good. \u003Cem\u003EReally\u003C\u002Fem\u003E good. The restaurant, like many Chicago pizza\nspots, is dim and its walls are covered in local paraphernalia: pictures of local\nbasketball legend Michael Jordan; stills from the iconic Chicago film, Blues\nBrothers; and signed headshots of the local Blackhawks hockey team.\nRed-and-white checked linens cover high tables and well-versed waiters spout\nlong lists of local beers and handcrafted sodas. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, the crust is lighter, a brilliantly buttery piecrust with a golden\ncaramelised outer layer giving in to a flaky, crumbly interior. The crust\ncrawls high on the pizza pan but the filling, like at Lou’s, is modest and of quality.\nSlices of Wisconsin mozzarella are topped with a garlicky, yet subtly sweet\ntomato sauce, and the fresh basil and homemade sausage pack a punch. It is, for\nall intents and purposes, a more refined deep-dish than the others, and\nultimately – at least for me – one of the most satisfying. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGino’s East\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFalling outside the Malnati-Riccardo-Sewell saga, yet intimately\nconnected to the origins of deep-dish, is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ginoseast.com\u002F\"\u003EGino’s\nEast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, just off Chicago’s famous Michigan Avenue. Opened in 1966, this is\nthe second-oldest deep-dish spot in town after Pizzeria Uno. The founders, Sam\nLevine and Fred Bartoli, hired former Uno cook Alice May Redmond and her sister\nRuth Hadley to run their kitchen with nearly instantaneous success. Today, the\noriginal spot still stands, famous for its wood and stucco walls covered in graffiti,\ncourtesy of decades of patrons’ scribbles. And the pizza? Delightful and thick,\nwith a cornmeal-tinted crust and lashings of sweet and chunky marinara sauce. Oozing\ncheese, heavy dashes of oregano and – if you so choose – crumbled Italian\nsausage round out Gino’s pizza, perfect for warming your insides on a Chicago\nwinter day. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETour for more\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EChicago’s windy streets are dotted with deep-dish, thin-crust, artisanal\nand wood-fired pizzas. To taste them all, book a tour with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.chicagopizzatours.com\u002F\"\u003EChicago Pizza Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and take a\nseat on their bus, aptly named “Dough Force One”. The bus traverses the city,\nbackstreets and neighbourhoods, guiding visitors on a tour of local spots,\ninside kitchens and through Chicago’s pizza history one knife-and-forkful at a\ntime.\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza-1"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2013-10-25T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The deep rooted history of Chicago’s deep-dish pizza","headlineShort":"Deep-dish pizza’s deep-rooted story","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Starting with an ancient culinary tradition carried overseas by Neapolitan immigrants, pizza has evolved into a Windy City icon.","summaryShort":"Ancient traditions lead to a Chicago-born icon","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2013-10-24T19:00:42Z","entity":"article","guid":"223624b3-d01d-491d-88bd-a6cc37ef9e5b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T22:18:15.578869Z","project":"travel","slug":"20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country","_id":"616ff65345ceed21716d3b38","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Great Hungarian Plain is Europe’s answer to the American West – complete with rough-and-tumble herdsmen, horses trained to lie flat on command and a history of highwaymen.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country-0"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2014-08-09T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Welcome to Europe’s cowboy country","headlineShort":"Welcome to Europe’s cowboy country","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Great Hungarian Plain is Europe’s answer to the American West – complete with rough-and-tumble herdsmen, horses trained to lie flat on command and a history of highwaymen.","summaryShort":"Explore a land of rough-and-tumble herdsmen","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2014-08-07T20:46:33Z","entity":"article","guid":"320d7e9d-7dbe-45cd-9820-2fd711c09d95","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T22:41:22.196555Z","project":"travel","slug":"20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side","_id":"616ff66245ceed375838fe3d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri"],"bodyIntro":"Most Americans don't realise that one in four cowboys was black – and they didn't just live in the Wild West.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the legendary black Chicago cowboy, Murdock \"The Man with No First Name\", rides one of his horses through Chicago's Hyde Park and along the South Shore segment of the lakefront path, he often finds himself explaining the rules of the road to questioning police officers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's perfectly legal to ride a horse in Chicago,\" said Murdock, who was himself a cop before founding one of the city's last remaining private equestrian clubs, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.brokenarrowhorsebackridingclub.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBroken Arrow Horseback Riding Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"so long as you obey the traffic rules.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the early 20th Century, it was a common sight to see horses prancing along Chicago's streets. The steady sounds of clip-clopping hooves gave rhythm to the day, as horse-drawn carts and carriages transported people and goods across the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w90zs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHorse racing also was among the city's most popular sports, and by the 1930s, Chicago boasted more horse racing venues than any other metropolitan area in the US, thanks to its legal gambling laws. Until the 1950s, dozens of livery stables rented horses by the hour for recreational riding along the more than 17 miles of bridle paths that stretched along Lake Michigan and through Chicago parks. But as the city and automobile traffic grew, recreational horse riding's popularity sank. The last city-sponsored public riding stable, Lincoln Park's New Parkway Riding Stables, closed in 1967.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut for the past 31 years, Murdock has been working to revive the Windy City's horse-riding heritage and make it more inclusive for the city's diverse residents. Currently located in the city's southern suburb of Chicago Heights, his Broken Arrow Horseback Riding Club is beloved by Chicago's black cowboys, who compete in the local Latting Rodeo just outside Chicago as well as national rodeos across the US. At 73, Murdock hasn't hung up his cowboy hat either. \"I was involved in calf and tie-down roping for a while, until I injured my back,\" he said. \"I still compete locally in Latting Rodeos, doing the less dangerous events, barrel and flag racing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMurdock, who chooses to only go by his surname, adding to his cowboy mystique, grew up in Chicago's predominantly African American South Side. He began riding as a boy at the city's 380-acre Washington Park, which once had its very own public riding stable. \"My dad owned a little printing shop nearby and in return for my helping him out on occasion, he paid for my riding lessons,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w90v2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough the popular narrative and imagery of the American West often ignores African American cowboys, historians estimate that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Funtold-america\u002Foklahoma\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone in four cowboys were black\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Black horsemen weren't only confined to the Wild West either. The American Black Cowboy Association held its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheundefeated.com\u002Ffeatures\u002Fblack-rodeo-cowboys-paraded-through-harlem-with-muhammad-ali\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efirst black rodeo in 1971\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in Harlem, New York City. In Philadelphia, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ffsurc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFletcher Street Urban Riding Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the inspiration behind the 2020 Netflix movie Concrete Cowboy starring Idris Elba, has been promoting black horsemanship for more than 100 years, raising awareness by simply riding through the city streets and parks and hosting regular races in Fairmount Park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChicago was first introduced to cowboys of colour when Buffalo Bill and his \"Congress of Rough Riders of the World\" galloped into the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893. The company, made up of more than 450 riders of Native American, Mexican, Arab, and African American descent, among other groups, performed to sellout crowds. An average of 16,000 spectators attended each of the 318 performances, inspiring Chicagoans of all backgrounds to dream about becoming cowboys in the big city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Funtold-america\u002Foklahoma\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe forgotten story of the US' black cowboys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210215-welcome-to-polebridge-one-of-the-us-last-frontiers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWelcome to Polebridge: one of the US' last frontiers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160602-where-people-become-real-life-cowboys\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people become real-life cowboys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThyrl Latting, often considered Chicago's original black cowboy, was the first to introduce Chicago's inner-city kids to horsemanship. In the early 1950s, Latting competed in rodeos across the country and developed a reputation as a star horseman. He launched the Thyrl Latting Rodeo Spectacular, a black cowboy-centred rodeo, at Chicago's International Amphitheater in 1964.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I grew up on Chicago's far South Side and went to Westerns on Saturday afternoons and always had cowboys as my heroes,\" Latting told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=w-oCAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA22&lpg=PA22&dq=thyrl+latting&source=bl&ots=0xHsyhk4l-&sig=ACfU3U0EWtVD30qiBZwSgOb13DMObnWKGQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjHj6HH5fTyAhXVUjUKHTwcCLEQ6AF6BAgZEAM#v=onepage&q=thyrl%20latting&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmerican Cowboy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E magazine in 1996. \"Nobody told me I couldn't be a cowboy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w912r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA celebrity in the cowboy community, Latting was also a high school shop teacher at Dunbar Vocational Career Academy, where Murdock attended high school. \"He was a good mentor to a lot of us. Because of him, it gave a lot of black people an opportunity to compete in the rodeo arena, where they didn't get an opportunity to do so before because it was in the arena of what the white folks were doing,\" Murdock said in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chicagonow.com\u002Fbonnies-eye-on-entertainment\u002F2020\u002F08\u002Fthe-mystique-of-the-black-cowboy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocal radio interview\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMurdock admired the show-stopping, predominantly white rodeo cowboys who competed locally in Washington Park and the city's six other racetracks, all of which are now defunct. But he had long assumed that becoming a cowboy in the Windy City was next to impossible for him. \"I badly wanted to own my very own horse, but financially, I just assumed the cost of boarding, training and equipment would be out of reach for my family's finances. It wasn't until I met Latting, who encouraged me that it was doable, noting, 'Never buy the first horse you see.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMurdock's first horse was a golden Palomino called Famous. The recently graduated 19-year-old worked as a police officer and security guard, enjoying riding in his free time until he eventually set out to accomplish his childhood dream and form a riding club.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn 15 January 1989, Murdock founded the Broken Arrow Horseback Riding Club to share the peace he found on horseback with others. \"On a horse, you're dealing with another brain. It's meditative. It's relaxing. It's all about dedication and commitment to the craft.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w91dk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe club's founding date, 15 January, was intentional. \"It's Martin Luther King, Jr's birthday. Peace. That's what it's all about. I do this because I love what I'm doing. I have a passion for giving back.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMurdock especially loves helping children build confidence through horse riding. \"Adults might ride with the fear of falling off the horse,\" he explained with a chuckle. \"Kids have an open mindset. They embrace the experience and bond immediately with the horses.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of the club's little cowboys live in Chicago's inner-city or areas long plagued with violence. \"I try to show these kids other outlets for their energy,\" Murdoch said. \"For so many of the kids that spend time here, riding and caring for the horses, the horse lifestyle replaces the street lifestyle.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the club's stables, five-year-old Dmitrius Branscomb, wearing a wide-brim cowboy hat and Western-style boots, approached the horses with remarkable confidence for a kindergartener. \"I love horses,\" he smiled. \"I like to ride them. And I like to take care of them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w91hc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"All 10 of my kids have benefited from learning to ride with Murdock,\" explained Dmitrius' father, Rashad. \"As they learn to care and ride a horse, they acquire so many skills. Patience. Trust. The value of hard work.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperts agree. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.keulseweg.nl\u002Fmedia\u002Fonderzoek15.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2013 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the benefits of a horse-education programme on children's social competence concluded that spending time with horses increases children's self-awareness, self-management, personal responsibility, decision-making, goal-directed behaviour and relationship skills. \"When a child is intently grooming, feeding or handling a horse, s\u002Fhe isn't thinking about themself. Caring for an animal like a horse allows children to learn how to care for others appropriately and at the same time can be a release from the stresses of home,\" explained \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.psychologytoday.com\u002Fus\u002Fblog\u002Fending-addiction-good\u002F201603\u002Fchildren-and-horses-equine-activities-improve-lives\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eauthor and therapist Constance Scharff\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, member of the American Psychological Association and World Federation for Mental Health.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClub member Neffer OA Kerr echoes this thought. \"For me, being around horses, working with them, and having a supportive horse community through this organisation gives me peace and adds to my overall mental health. Horseback riding has changed my life because when I am riding, I feel free.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Time flies when you're on a horse. You're dealing with another brain. You can teach a horse anything,\" Murdock said as he led one of his three Paint horses out of the stable and onto an adjacent, wide-open field. \"But you need to do it out of love.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09w91k0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Broken Arrow Riding Club boasts more than 100 active participants. In addition to offering year-round private lessons in its indoor arena and guided rides on the city's lakefront and park trails, the club hosts an annual \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.brokenarrowhorsebackridingclub.org\u002Fevents.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHigh Noon Ride & Picnic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Washington Park. As the club's cowboys and cowgirls ride en masse through the park and beyond, they naturally attract curious onlookers eager to catch a glimpse of Chicago's urban, black equestrian community. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor years, Murdock has been urging city officials and raising funds to bring a riding stable back to Washington Park. His ultimate mission is to honour Chicago's horse-riding legacy and to offer an alternative activity for inner-city riders of all ages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I thought horseback riding was just a fun little pastime, when I first took horseback riding lessons at 10 years old. But as I grew, I realised that it has been one of the most impactful, energetic communities I would ever be introduced to,\" explained long-time club member Jhorden Cherry. \"Through horses, we experience a world unlike what we see in front of us – a world of many companionships, silent communication, self-reflection, and most importantly, accountability. Horses taught me more about life than life itself did.\"\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-20T10:18:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The black cowboys of Chicago's South Side","headlineShort":"Chicago's black urban cowboys","image":["p09w90zs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.8781","longitude":"87.6298","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68c8293c02"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09w90zs"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171128-chicagos-underground-city-thats-becoming-a-design-star","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20131023-the-deep-rooted-history-of-chicagos-deep-dish-pizza","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140731-welcome-to-europes-cowboy-country"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Most Americans don't realise that one in four cowboys was black – and they didn't just live in the Wild West.","summaryShort":"One in four cowboys were black – and they didn't just live in the Wild West","tag":["tag\u002Fsports"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-19T22:56:01.22899Z","entity":"article","guid":"4c6f2e40-2e73-48f2-beb3-930d9d4366d5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-20T13:06:08.117624Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fchicago","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_illinois_chicago_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806}},"tags":{"tag\u002Fhistory":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhistory","_id":"616ff6b045ceed56fa7b57e0","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"History","creationDateTime":"2011-07-05T14:55:14Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6832b6dc-e349-43ec-af00-31e2e8025190","id":"tag\u002Fhistory","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:37:27.305164Z","project":"","slug":"history","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","_id":"616ff6b845ceed59f32da657","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest nature and outdoors stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Nature & Outdoors","creationDateTime":"2010-08-31T13:55:09Z","entity":"tag","guid":"87d24744-7f21-4467-b7db-d03e1ac9c1ca","id":"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:47:31.999433Z","project":"","slug":"nature-outdoors","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660797},"tag\u002Fhiking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhiking","_id":"616ff70945ceed5cc35d3f89","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest hiking stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Hiking","creationDateTime":"2011-05-23T11:59:21Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6a47b0fb-60c0-4b53-80cf-b56fb7a41163","id":"tag\u002Fhiking","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:37:15.659362Z","project":"","slug":"hiking","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660799},"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"616ff6c945ceed6110159abb","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & Drink","creationDateTime":"2010-08-31T13:55:09Z","entity":"tag","guid":"0b90e0cf-5bc4-45a8-9361-98ed75aae950","id":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:33:55.567841Z","project":"","slug":"food-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660793},"tag\u002Fcovid-19":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcovid-19","_id":"616ff6c345ceed5c5914f75e","assetImage":[],"description":"Evidence-based analysis and myth-busting stories about the new coronavirus","linkUrl":"","name":"Covid-19","creationDateTime":"2020-03-12T18:50:22.798892Z","entity":"tag","guid":"e7773612-18e8-4b40-a9ea-9cafc055663b","id":"tag\u002Fcovid-19","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:27:12.787538Z","project":"","slug":"covid-19","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","_id":"616ff6c545ceed5f4b0a48f2","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories on cultural traditions from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Cultural Traditions","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:28:57.916527Z","entity":"tag","guid":"62f2a0d9-399c-43a9-9833-3a4b45eb27dd","id":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:28:00.479567Z","project":"","slug":"cultural-traditions","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660796},"tag\u002Farchaeology":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Farchaeology","_id":"616ff6b545ceed50bd0cba69","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest stories about archaeology from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F18951655","name":"Archaeology","creationDateTime":"2015-11-13T11:43:20.892812Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ab6371bb-4852-41b3-8bde-45b308df886a","id":"tag\u002Farchaeology","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:18:18.218628Z","project":"","slug":"archaeology","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"tag\u002Fwellness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fwellness","_id":"616ff6d345ceed6c833d5aa5","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC's latest wellness stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Wellness","creationDateTime":"2020-02-28T21:13:24.535072Z","entity":"tag","guid":"13ba4b04-b3a2-4dee-8a3d-49c39c8fa6f4","id":"tag\u002Fwellness","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T17:05:55.899683Z","project":"","slug":"wellness","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"tag\u002Ffood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood","_id":"616ff6c445ceed5f46284052","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest food stories from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F10646","name":"Food","creationDateTime":"2014-11-18T09:16:00Z","entity":"tag","guid":"008f74c0-b17b-4954-b5a1-8df55b6dadc4","id":"tag\u002Ffood","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:33:52.034815Z","project":"","slug":"food","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"tag\u002Farts-architecture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Farts-architecture","_id":"616ff6ca45ceed5fb451bfed","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about arts and architecture from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Arts & Architecture","creationDateTime":"2010-08-31T13:55:08Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8ddc5269-0bdf-4120-a923-658aa981eba6","id":"tag\u002Farts-architecture","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:18:57.92817Z","project":"","slug":"arts-architecture","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660800},"tag\u002Feco-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Feco-tourism","_id":"616ff6c945ceed6144498697","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest eco-tourism stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Eco-tourism","creationDateTime":"2010-08-31T13:55:09Z","entity":"tag","guid":"5d87d5b2-58ba-422e-a643-264769cfffbe","id":"tag\u002Feco-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:30:52.161062Z","project":"","slug":"eco-tourism","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660802},"tag\u002Flanguage":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Flanguage","_id":"616ff6b845ceed5ef350958a","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest stories about the fascinating languages spoken around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Language","creationDateTime":"2015-02-16T14:57:27Z","entity":"tag","guid":"176287de-70e2-4f80-9870-3700471904e6","id":"tag\u002Flanguage","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:41:32.799638Z","project":"","slug":"language","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660803},"tag\u002Freligion":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Freligion","_id":"616ff6ca45ceed66ba57c73e","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about religions and traditional rituals from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F25414","name":"Religion","creationDateTime":"2014-10-10T09:04:11Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ca134ecd-06ce-4770-b25f-23ab864e1189","id":"tag\u002Freligion","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:53:13.978162Z","project":"","slug":"religion","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660804},"tag\u002Fsports":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsports","_id":"616ff6d345ceed6c033d2134","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Sports","creationDateTime":"2010-08-31T13:55:09Z","entity":"tag","guid":"76f4462b-1e05-4cac-b4da-26e888e9c3ee","id":"tag\u002Fsports","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T16:57:17.917244Z","project":"","slug":"sports","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660806}},"navigations":{"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:navigation:travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","_id":"616ff70545ceed6bb96b4777","item":[{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Culture","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculture-identity","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-0"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Food","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-hospitality","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-1"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Discovery","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fdiscovery","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-2"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Adventure","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fadventure-experience","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-3"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Destinations","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fdestinations","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-4"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Collections","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002F","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-5"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"About us","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F1JY27sX","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-6"},{"lineOne":"NEW!","lineTwo":"50 Reasons to Love the World","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zDE6sk","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-7"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Untold America","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20211027090810\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3jXnK59","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-8"}],"primaryVertical":"travel","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:02:23.756001Z","entity":"navigation","guid":"38bbc1f1-d8a5-4713-bfe2-6aaf1b656958","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","modifiedDateTime":"2021-07-20T15:03:56.961641Z","project":"travel","slug":"travel","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660762}},"partners":{},"modules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","_id":"616ff6c945ceed68173754e6","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hero","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hero","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:37:45.179269Z","entity":"module","guid":"79a0523a-7e5c-4be9-9a53-3f7e411d128a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-26T20:06:46.272217Z","project":"travel","slug":"hero","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","_id":"616ff70d45ceed6c8e7720ec","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index-picks","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211021-spatis-the-convenience-stores-that-rule-berlin","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know","schema":"article"}],"title":"Editor's Picks","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:38:42.775995Z","entity":"module","guid":"1d5e8e1e-8d0f-4691-a1b6-54bad73c98ce","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-26T20:07:44.205775Z","project":"travel","slug":"index-picks","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660791},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","_id":"616ff6fe45ceed6c8e7720a3","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"full-width-image","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","schema":"external"}],"title":"Full Width Image","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:34:40.11256Z","entity":"module","guid":"21620296-034a-40fe-8256-d6efcdd7e0bd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","modifiedDateTime":"2021-07-26T11:04:43.452595Z","project":"travel","slug":"full-width-image","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","_id":"616ff70245ceed6cc57d4248","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hot-topics","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210927-the-blue-men-of-the-sahara","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20200908-untold-america","schema":"external"}],"title":"Hot Topics","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:33:42.010517Z","entity":"module","guid":"d9a25593-c5ee-497d-8c03-249fa8f88385","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-18T18:08:08.71039Z","project":"travel","slug":"hot-topics","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660795},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","_id":"616ff6c845ceed692653ecc2","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"most-popular","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211003-are-floating-cities-our-future","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210929-the-english-county-with-more-waterways-than-venice","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210920-the-key-to-bhutans-happiness","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210919-the-black-cowboys-of-chicagos-south-side","schema":"article"}],"title":"Most Popular","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:40:32.013726Z","entity":"module","guid":"8b5e3bec-8106-4431-93f4-864352a65ddd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-18T18:12:56.295128Z","project":"travel","slug":"most-popular","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660798},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","_id":"616ff70845ceed6bb96b4782","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"swimlane","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain","schema":"collection"}],"title":"Swimlane","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:31:44.560665Z","entity":"module","guid":"7199c6f8-7f43-419a-b9d9-a3ab5e980a7a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","modifiedDateTime":"2021-08-19T14:26:01.815254Z","project":"travel","slug":"swimlane","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660812}},"indexModules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","_id":"616ff6c345ceed5f2a5524dd","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index","primaryVertical":"travel","title":"Index","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:36:37.38773Z","entity":"module","guid":"bf059652-7316-4b2b-b549-097e3ba7648b","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","modifiedDateTime":"2021-06-18T14:13:47.560035Z","project":"travel","slug":"index","cacheLastUpdated":1635324660790,"subModules":["travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane"]}},"aroundTheBBC":{},"weathers":{},"destinations":{}},"ads":{},"destinationsAZ":{"azIndexFilter":"Continent"},"collectionsAZ":{"indexFilter":"MOST_RECENT"},"relatedArticlesById":{},"article":{"currentActiveArticle":null,"primaryArticle":null},"loader":{"message":null,"show":false},"location":{"currentLocation":"\u002Ftravel","previousLocation":null,"isFirstRendering":true},"serverRender":true,"hasArticleHero":{"value":false},"visitedCollectionIndex":false,"visitedTagIndex":false,"metaData":{"title":null},"fetchArticleGroupByArticleId":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null,"endpoint":null},"fetchArticleById":{"isFetching":null,"error":null},"fetchTagsByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchCollectionsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchDestinationsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchNavigationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","error":null},"fetchCollectionById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchDestinationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchTagById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchWeatherById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchModuleByVertical":{"isFetching":{"site\u002Ftravel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":false},"error":null},"pagination":{"articleInfiniteScroll":{},"collectionArticlesIndex":{},"tagArticlesIndex":{},"verticalArticlesIndex":{},"premiumCollectionArticlesIndex":{},"swimlaneCollectionArticles":{},"destinationArticlesIndex":{}}}</script> <script>window.__ENTITY_ROUTES__ = {"article":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"previewArticle":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fpreview\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"premiumCollection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexColumn":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexSection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"tagArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftag\u002F:id"},"tagsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Ftags"},"verticalArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)"},"collectionsColumnsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"collectionsSectionsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"destinationsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations","entityMapping":"\u002Fdestinations"},"destinationIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations\u002F:destinationId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fdestination-guide\u002F:destinationId"}};</script> <script>window.__PWA_CLIENT_SIDE_ENABLED__=true</script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/1634747638-a2cc5a93355b82bc6d0adb06f35c07881e1e39b1/static/js/bundle.b06b9354.js"></script> <script>window.BBC_GNL_PWA_MAIN();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> (function() { /** CONFIGURATION START **/ var _sf_async_config = window._sf_async_config = (window._sf_async_config || {}); _sf_async_config.uid = '50924'; _sf_async_config.domain = 'bbc.co.uk'; _sf_async_config.flickerControl = false; _sf_async_config.useCanonical = true; _sf_async_config.sections = 'travel'; _sf_async_config.path = '/travel'; _sf_async_config.authors = false; /** CONFIGURATION END **/ function loadChartbeat() { var e = document.createElement('script'); var n = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; e.type = 'text/javascript'; e.async = true; e.src = '//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.chartbeat.com/js/chartbeat.js'; n.parentNode.insertBefore(e, n); } loadChartbeat(); })(); </script> </div> <div id="orb-footer" class="orb-footer" dir="ltr"> <div id="navp-orb-footer-promo"></div><aside role="complementary"><div id="orb-aside" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner" role="navigation" aria-label="BBC"><h2 class="orb-footer-lead">Explore the BBC</h2><div class="orb-footer-primary-links"><ul><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/">Home</a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news">News</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport">Sport</a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather">Weather</a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer">iPlayer</a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds">Sounds</a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc">CBBC</a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies">CBeebies</a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food">Food</a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize">Bitesize</a></li><li class="orb-nav-arts"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/arts">Arts</a></li><li class="orb-nav-taster"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/taster">Taster</a></li><li class="orb-nav-local"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/localnews">Local</a></li><li class="orb-nav-three"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcthree">Three</a></li></ul></div></div></div></aside><footer role="contentinfo"><div id="orb-contentinfo" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><script>window.orb = window.orb || {}; window.orb.worldwideFooterlinks = '<li class="orb-footer-ads"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbcglobalnews.com/">Advertise with us<' + '/a><' + '/li><li class="orb-footer-adchoices"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.com/usingthebbc/cookies/how-does-the-bbc-use-cookies-for-advertising/">AdChoices / Do Not Sell My Info<' + '/a><' + '/li>';</script><div class="orb-footer-inner"><div><ul><li class="orb-footer-terms"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/terms/">Terms of Use</a></li><li class="orb-footer-about"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/aboutthebbc">About the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-privacy"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/privacy/">Privacy Policy</a></li><li class="orb-footer-cookies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/cookies/">Cookies</a></li><li class="orb-footer-accessibility"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li><li class="orb-footer-parental"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/guidance">Parental Guidance</a></li><li class="orb-footer-contact"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/contact">Contact the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-newsletter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcnewsletter">Get Personalised Newsletters</a></li></ul><small><em class="orb-hilight">Copyright © 2021 BBC.</em> The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. <span class="orb-footer-links"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://www.bbc.co.uk/editorialguidelines/guidance/feeds-and-links" class="orb-hilight">Read about our approach to external linking.</a></span></small></div></div></div></footer></div><script type="importmap">{"imports":{"orbit-drawer":"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/drawer-api.bundle.js","bbccookies":"https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6868f40b6841deedfcf9895de775e1ab/cookie-banner/cookie-library.module.js"}}</script><script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/orbit.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/redirect.bundle.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/performance.bundle.js" data-release="3.0.0-1714.f397d719" data-ux="orb" async=""></script><script id="orb-js-script" data-assetpath="https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/orb.min.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript">/*<![CDATA[*/ require(['orb/nav'], function(nav) { window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { nav.loadJs('https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c2cacae46aac94e6bf2a24e94cb6efe1/js/edr.min.js'); } }); }); /*]]>*/</script> <script type="text/javascript">require.config({ paths: { "mybbc/templates": '//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.7/templates', "mybbc/notifications": '//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.7/js' } }); require(['mybbc/notifications/NotificationsMain', 'idcta/idcta-1'], function (NotificationsMain, idcta) { var loadNotifications = function (isUK) { if (isUK) { window.bbcpage.loadCSS('//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.7/css/main.min.css').then(function() { NotificationsMain.run(idcta, '//web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.7/'); }); } }; window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { loadNotifications(isUK); }); });</script> <script type="module">if (window.bbcuser && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined) { bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function (isUK) { if (isUK) { const isOrbUx = !!document.querySelector('.orb-nav-pri-container'); if (isOrbUx) { const script = document.createElement('script'); script.src = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/d3c099a283f4be8102b8b0bba5796dd7//js/old-search-suggest.js'; script.async = true; script.setAttribute('data-static-prefix', 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/d3c099a283f4be8102b8b0bba5796dd7/'); script.setAttribute('data-variant', 'default'); document.head.appendChild(script); } else { import('https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/d3c099a283f4be8102b8b0bba5796dd7//js/search-suggest.js').then(drawer => { drawer.setupSearchDrawer({ searchboxAppStaticPrefix: 'https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/d3c099a283f4be8102b8b0bba5796dd7/', variant: 'default', }); }); } } }); }</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/navpromo/34f98a4c8573fabed16dc8acea28feb8/js/footerpromo.js" data-base="https://navpromo.api.bbci.co.uk" data-variant="" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">window.COOKIES_STATIC_HOST="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6868f40b6841deedfcf9895de775e1ab/cookie-banner/cookie-prompt/"</script><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6868f40b6841deedfcf9895de775e1ab/cookie-banner/cookie-banners.bundle.js" async=""></script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk//user-activity-helper/5a08eeec4b85ac14cd5e09e2fab845eb/js/detectview.bundle.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript">"use strict";window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){return e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Failed to load reverb. No event sent")});</script><noscript><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20211027090810im_/https://sb.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=17986528&cs_ucfr=0&cv=2.0&cj=1"></noscript> </body> </html>