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article__layout article__layout--header "> <h1 class="e-headline u-heading-1" data-test="headline" itemprop="headline"> 9 style lessons from New York Fashion Week </h1> </header> <div class="grid-col grid-col-12 article__layout article__layout--header-meta article__separator"> <div class="article__byline-date"> <span class="e-byline e-byline--multi" data-test="byline"> <span class="e-byline__meta" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/Person" itemprop="author"> <a href="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/authors/avril-mair/" class="e-byline__link" rel="author"> <span class="e-byline__bytext">By</span> <span class="e-byline__author" itemprop="name" content="Avril Mair">Avril Mair</span> </a> </span> </span> <time class="e-published-date u-meta" itemprop="datePublished" datetime="2020-02-14T13:25+0000" data-test="time"> 14 February 2020 • 1:25pm </time> </div> <div class="article__subscriber article__separator"> <span class="e-subscriber-label e-subscriber-label--box" data-test="subscriber-label">Premium</span> </div> </div> <span class="grid-col grid-col-12 article__separator article__separator--show-xs" aria-hidden="true"></span> <div class="grid-col grid-col-12 u-full-bleed u-full-bleed--reset-sm article__lead-asset " data-lead-asset-layout="small"> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-48_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqxnlSljj15z1o8iKqMGA7tyH0-jRUT4rHK8EgtaGoQwQ.jpg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1712"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="1072"/> <meta itemprop="representativeOfPage" content="true"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <img class="responsive article-body-image__source" 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/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-48_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqxnlSljj15z1o8iKqMGA7tyH0-jRUT4rHK8EgtaGoQwQ.jpg?imwidth=1280 1280w" alt="Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Kate Spade, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta" sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw"/> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Oscar de la Renta and Kate Spade </span> </figcaption> </figure> </div> <span class="grid-col grid-col-12 article__separator article__separator--hide-xs" aria-hidden="true"></span> <div class="grid-col grid-col-12 article__layout article__layout--content"> <div itemprop="articleBody" data-js="article-body"> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text version-2 section"> <p>New York is the first stop on the biannual fashion month calendar - and our first glimpse of what autumn/winter 2020 has in store. Here are the takeaways from the ground. </p> <h4>It's lonely on the front row</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1133"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="1929"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.06%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Tom Ford"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801615_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq1TPhR1FfkXbFlBTAWgiUa3qzn362d4WMJi3qux6Slj4.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Tom Ford"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Tom Ford </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>The most talked about show during New York Fashion Week actually happened in LA. <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/tom-ford-botox-marriage-2bn-brand-mario-testino-sexual-misconduct/">Designer Tom Ford, chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of American (CFDA)</a> - the body in charge of NYFW, as it happens – issued the hottest ticket in Hollywood with an event whose front row rivaled that of <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/events/oscars-2020-best-dressed-charlize-theron-laura-dern-margot-robbie/">the Oscars</a>. This was, clearly, the whole point: when your USP is celebrity dressing, where else would you be on the eve of the Academy Awards? Though none of his crystal-strewn gowns made it onto the red carpet – those deals are struck months in advance – it was a marketing masterstroke. He wasn’t the only one playing truant from the NYFW schedule, however.</p> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1464"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:149.97%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Tibi"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801590_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Tibi"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Tibi </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>Other brands made their excuses too: Tommy Hilfiger is showing tonight in London, while <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/ralph-lauren-never-thought-fashion-designer-values/">Ralph Lauren</a> will host a special event in April instead, the first time he’s skipped NYFW in over 50 years. Also missing in action were Joseph Altuzurra, Rosie Assoulin and Jeremy Scott, who have all decamped to Paris, while Kate Spade and Tibi put on small presentations instead. As a result, the week felt somewhat lacking in energy as well as glamour - though Katie Holmes did her bit, valiantly attending as many shows as she could, single-handedly upping the celeb quotient. We’re practically BFFs now.</p> <h4>Working girl</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1464"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:149.97%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Tory Burch"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801604_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-5Dg7ACGJPdPR4xgCzbOV8A.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Tory Burch"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Tory Burch </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>It feels like fashion now has to say something or run the risk of seeming irrelevant. In a show season that’s happening alongside Harvey Weinstein’s trial, feminism is a good place to start. And who better to do it than <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/tory-burch-meet-woman-built-25-billion-fashion-brand-no-business/">Tory Burch</a>? A self-made billionaire with a fashion empire to rival Ralph Lauren, she’s also a philanthropist who campaigns passionately for female entrepreneurship. This is the side of her which came to the fore here, perhaps for the first time. Held in the halls of Sotheby’s, the show was a collaboration with artist Francesca DiMattio, around whose sly, colourful ceramic sculptures - fusing abstract female forms with flowers - models walked. “She challenges the traditional norms of femininity,” Burch said afterwards. The same could be said of the clothing, which took preconceived ideas of power dressing and subtly subverted them – a grey plaid trouser suit had a soft slope to its shoulders and a gentle nip at its waist, worn with a silk lace blouse and tucked into supple over-the-knee boots, while high-necked Edwardian jackets were teamed with lean pants and those same elongated boots. "I was thinking about how I would want a woman that I admired to go into a boardroom,” the designer said. She could, of course, be talking about herself.</p> <h4>Burning the house down</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1467"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.24%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Carolina Herrera"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801621_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Carolina Herrera"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Carolina Herrera </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>There are other kinds of power dressing at play in New York. The houses of Carolina Herrera and Oscar De La Renta have traditionally catered for the woman who wants a skirt suit for lunch at Mortimer’s and a gown for her gala at the Plaza. But luxury has a different face now and both brands are designed by young creatives who get this new world order. Wes Gordon is just 33 but helms Herrera with a clear, concise eye: this is maximalism by a minimalist, the overblown shapes of his dresses executed in confident colour instead of print. The opening look said it all: a pink chiffon high-neck dress swept the floor beneath a crimson cashmere cape coat, edged in the same pink and belted at the waist like a dressing gown (capes, cape coats and robes also happen to be three of this week’s biggest trends).</p> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1469"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.33%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Bella Hadid at Oscar De La Renta"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801627_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhJpcTaDycYqZzDAOAUJ79XNpOZpJj6VP0Ce2udBdczw.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Bella Hadid at Oscar De La Renta"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Bella Hadid walking the Oscar De La Renta show </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>Laura Kim, 37, plus partner Fernando Garcia, 32, took to New York’s Public Library for their show – models strode along its marble halls in skirts that stretched the width of a corridor, fuchsia silk brushing the audience’s feet. Scarlett Johansson wore a gown by the brand to the Oscars, carefully cut to expose the tattoo across her rib cage; such is their modernity. Though the designers’ moodboard was full of images from Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball, the apex of old school glamour, this collection was bold and sculptural – a pair of immaculately cut black cocktail pants worn with a strapless silver sequin top, tied at the waist with velvet ribbon, was lovely in its simplicity. </p> <h4>Don't look back in anger</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1466"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.06%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Kaia Gerber walking for Michael Kors"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801630_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Kaia Gerber walking for Michael Kors"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Kaia Gerber walking at the Michael Kors show </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>The word of the season is sustainability. <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/womens-style/michael-kors-building-empire-dressing-melania-art-knowing-women/">Michael Kors</a> has been thinking about this a lot. At a preview of his terrific town-and-country, equestrian-inspired collection, he wasn’t talking about carbon neutral shows or fabric upcycling; rather, about buying clothes to keep forever. “My approach to fashion has always been about a sense of timelessness and investment,” he says. “It’s the pride of owning something that lasts.” With the brand’s 40th anniversary coming up, Kors has been looking back at his own heritage and drawing direct influence from it: a double face beige cashmere cape with a bold stripe of orange and brown at its hem, paired with suede riding boots and worn in the show by Kaia Gerber, was first modelled by Naomi Campbell in 1999, then worn by Joan Didion in a famous Tina Barney photograph. Which rather proves his point about longevity. There were plenty of pieces here which looked like future heirlooms: grey cashmere sweatshirts, more delicious capes, tailored tweed suiting and a very, very desirable black sequin smock dress that had a wool polo neck underneath. “The best clothes should make you feel like you are in a chic security blanket,” he says. </p> <h4>Reality bites</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1080"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="1080"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:100%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpgimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Gabriela Hearst and The Row"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-49_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpgimwidth=480" alt="Gabriela Hearst and The Row"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Gabriela Hearst, The Row </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>The heart wants what it wants, to quote Selena Gomez, and that’s not Justin Bieber here but rather the understated luxury shown by The Row and Gabriela Hearst. This isn’t fashion but clothes for living: immaculate suiting in a season where everyone’s obsessed by it, seemingly effortless but cut with razor sharp precision.</p> <h4>Little Women</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1466"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.06%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Coach 1941"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801632_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Coach 1941"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Coach 1941 </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>Forget modernity. It’s not surprising that the most fashionable place to be right now is the Marches’ drawing room. Yes,<em> </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/story-behind-little-womens-sumptuous-costumes-look-right-now/"><em>Little Women</em> is having an impact</a> on the autumn/winter 2020 season – how could it not? – with its influence felt both on and off the runway. Long tiered dresses worn with clompy boots and romantic capes: amongst the Bottega bags and beige leather culottes, a pleasing primness took over the street style set.</p> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1080"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="1080"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:100%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpgimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Zimmermann and Kate Spade"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/FotoJet-50_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqqVzuuqpFlyLIwiB6NTmJwfSVWeZ_vEN7c6bHu2jJnT8.jpgimwidth=480" alt="Zimmermann and Kate Spade"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Zimmermann, Kate Spade </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>This kind of historical theatricality has always had a place in London – see Erdem, for example – but here in New York, it was evident at brands like Brock Collection, Ulla Johnson and Zimmermann, all of whom excel at a really good frock. If what your heart desires for autumn is some Victoriana then Kate Spade has a dreamy little day dress with white lace cuffs and a matching collar that clasps the throat. If you prefer your vintage with an East Village edge then look to Coach, where Stuart Vevers made a convincing case for the printed shirtwaister, long-sleeved and belted, just the right side of retro.</p> </div> <div class="html-embed section"> <span></span> <aside id="c3ca279b-5463-4aeb-be96-d56f9251ed1d" data-data-uri="https://particle-api.eip.telegraph.co.uk/particles/c3ca279b-5463-4aeb-be96-d56f9251ed1d" data-html-uri="https://cf-particle-html.eip.telegraph.co.uk/c3ca279b-5463-4aeb-be96-d56f9251ed1d.html" class="tmg-particle puff" data-reg-required="false" data-reg-redirect="" data-sub-required="false" data-sub-redirect="" data-widget-type="puff" data-widget-title="New York Fashion Week: see the best street style looks, from tailoring to tonal dressing" data-widget-size="inline" data-widget-static="false" data-expandable="false" data-embeddable="true"><a title="New York Fashion Week: see the best street style looks, from tailoring to tonal dressing" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://cf-particle-html.eip.telegraph.co.uk/c3ca279b-5463-4aeb-be96-d56f9251ed1d.html">New York Fashion Week: see the best street style looks, from tailoring to tonal dressing</a></aside><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117js_/https://cf.eip.telegraph.co.uk/particle-embed/js/particle.js" defer></script> </div> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <h4>The it accessory</h4> <p>Newsflash: the front row’s new must-have accessory is currently on special offer at Boots. There wasn’t a British editor who didn’t stock up on Carex anti-bacterial hand gel as they passed through Heathrow en route to New York. It’s not that we’re paranoid about <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/coronavirus-affecting-fashion/">Coronavirus</a>, but when you’re spending a month squashed together like battery chickens, why take the chance? Personal hygiene is very autumn/winter 2020.</p> <h4>Divine dresses</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1467"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.24%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Rodarte"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801628_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqSOSrow2dp9q0oap3culGc4ruEuLnfWioJFqE4iaQuA4.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Rodarte"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Rodarte </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>Along with sustainability and $2,000 cashmere jumpers, NYFW also had a brief moment that illustrated the power of fashion to utterly transport its audience. Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte put on a candle-lit presentation in a Fifth Avenue church that brought their rain sodden audience close to tears. Maybe it was the evocative Nick Cave soundtrack (‘everyone has a heart and it’s calling for something’) but there was beauty and drama in this gothic show, which spoke of female strength and magic. It also had some seriously great dresses, another New York trend: anyone seeking an unconventional wedding outfit should look no further than the pailette-embellished white tiered tulle.</p> <h4>Fash-mob</h4> </div> <figure itemscope="true" data-test="article-body-image" itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" data-js="article-body-image" itemprop="image" class="article-body-image section"> <meta itemprop="url" content="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="1466"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="2502"/> <div class="article-body-image__container"> <div class="lazy-image article-body-image__source " style="padding-top:150.06%;" data-js="LazyImage" data-class="lazy-image__img" data-src="/web/20200215114117oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" data-srcset=" /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=350 350w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=480 480w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=680 680w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=960 960w, /content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpeg?imwidth=1280 1280w" data-sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 960px, (min-width: 768px) 680px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 100vw" data-alt="Marc Jacobs"> <noscript> <img class="responsive lazy-image__img article-body-image__source" src="/web/20200215114117im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224801631_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bqx1rGucoo2J_ExhuM2sOt-2KkiXth0yvs1prgxg7PzaA.jpegimwidth=480" alt="Marc Jacobs"/> </noscript> </div> <button class="e-caption-trigger" aria-label="Open caption" data-aria-open="Open caption" data-aria-close="Close caption" data-js="caption-trigger" data-test="caption-trigger"> <svg class="e-caption-trigger__icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewbox="0 0 20 20"> <path d="M9.375 15V8.75H10.625V15H9.375ZM8.75 6.25L10 5L11.25 6.25L10 7.5L8.75 6.25Z"/> <path d="M10 1.25C12.3125 1.25 14.5625 2.1875 16.1875 3.8125C17.8125 5.4375 18.75 7.6875 18.75 10C18.75 12.3125 17.8125 14.5625 16.1875 16.1875C14.5625 17.8125 12.3125 18.75 10 18.75C7.6875 18.75 5.4375 17.8125 3.8125 16.1875C2.1875 14.5625 1.25 12.3125 1.25 10C1.25 7.6875 2.1875 5.4375 3.8125 3.8125C5.4375 2.1875 7.6875 1.25 10 1.25ZM10 0C4.5 0 0 4.5 0 10C0 15.5 4.5 20 10 20C15.5 20 20 15.5 20 10C20 4.5 15.5 0 10 0Z"/> </svg> </button> </div> <figcaption class="e-caption u-meta " data-js="caption"> <span itemprop="caption" data-test="caption"> Marc Jacobs </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div data-test="article-body-text" class="article-body-text section"> <p>Marc Jacobs knows how to entertain. This is a man, after all, who once had an actual steam train pull into his Louis Vuitton show. He brought NYFW to a close with an electrifying piece of theatre: his models, dressed in conservative mid-century clothes, found themselves surrounded by a flashmob of dancers, leaping and prancing and bringing the house down. It was so transfixing that the runway debut of one Miley Cyrus went almost entirely unnoticed. </p> <p><em>Avril Mair is Fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar and Elle magazines</em></p> <p><em><b>For more news, analysis and advice from The Telegraph's fashion desk, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://secure.telegraph.co.uk/secure/newsletter/fashion/?icid=Fashion_Fashion_text_newsletter_endofarticle">click here</a> to sign up to get our weekly newsletter, straight to your inbox every Friday. Follow our Instagram <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200215114117/https://www.instagram.com/telegraphfashion/?hl=en">@Telegraphfashion</a></b></em></p> </div> </div> <div class="article__end-meta"> <div class="article__related"> <div class="related-topics" data-test="related-topics"> <div class="related-topics__title u-meta">Related Topics</div> <ul class="related-topics__list"> <li class="related-topics__item u-meta"> <a class="related-topics__link" href="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/ageless-style/"> Ageless style, </a> </li> <li class="related-topics__item u-meta"> <a class="related-topics__link" href="/web/20200215114117/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/autumn-winter-trends/"> Autumn and winter trends </a> </li> </ul> </div> </div> <div class="article__social"> <ul class="e-social-share" data-test="social-share"> <li class="e-social-share__provider e-social-share__provider--twitter"> <a 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