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Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens."/><meta data-react-helmet="true" name="medium" content="website"/><meta data-react-helmet="true" name="guid" content="drn:src:natgeo:unison::prod:df4596e0-67a7-4046-a283-2af340c81e9a"/><meta data-react-helmet="true" property="og:site_name" content="Travel"/><meta data-react-helmet="true" property="og:title" content="Where to eat in Fez, Morocco"/><meta data-react-helmet="true" property="og:description" content="The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens."/><meta data-react-helmet="true" property="og:url" content="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/where-to-eat-fez-morocco"/><meta data-react-helmet="true" property="og:image" 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ENhiS dQa-Du SVBll bpBbX GpQCA tuAKv xTell wdAqb ZqGqs LVAIE TnrRA uECag DcwSV XnBOJ cELRj SUAFz XzYk zkmjG aSyef pFen hoNVj TQOOL Haltu NafGB KpEhF jyjDy kZHqU FZKIw QddLR SKDYB UmcQM giepU cTjQC aRMla MMxXy fFMcX PbMFf hJRbU MRTyf iFJTR koyYF TkdYt DZNRX MALjb VUFMN " data-testid="prism-Tag" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel" data-pos="0"><span class="QXDKT rGjeC tuAKv iMbiE ">TRAVEL</span></a></li></ul></div></div></div></div><div class="kCTVx PPjDx pOKAh glxIO HfYhe vUYNV VGOqD nDkuk uCVfO eQSuB " data-testid="prism-headline"><h1 class="vMjAx nHBAb jzGdy QVPOi mTgUP qvleh psJCR kPFVD hqIuL "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Where to eat in Fez, birthplace of Morocco's finest food traditions</span></h1><p class="FRnbR Poyse uieav lqtkC glxIO HfYhe vUYNV kjxhK pUhmG hDCuW "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.</span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="pFYvw GpQCA pWDoc NAOo tRYWy vzGeY Zuecj ilnrB HZlx SHYeL "><div class="KwyL lZur ymbLA qTfbe "><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=374&h=249, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=748&h=498 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=413&h=275, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=826&h=550 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px) and (max-width: 767px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=767&h=511, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1534&h=1022 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1024&h=683, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2048&h=1366 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1025px) and (max-width: 1440px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1260&h=840, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2520&h=1680 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1441px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1440&h=960, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2880&h=1920 2x"/><img alt="A selection of Moroccan souks to contain tajine, painted with a variation of colours and designs." class="hsDdd DXqUA bmjsw TmzDJ " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" fetchpriority="high" loading="eager" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg" style="object-position:center center"/></picture></div></div><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU eEzcu lZur WNdIy TIUFF muhVV Xeksr xpas rvnTO LmJXV jDBqB JKtQY MjpIc FSYrT XDDX ejOTv UhnqP ppVJr pQPqS XZhpq IYEIp ErMbF ySNpZ AbxZJ TKjnq JZkow DqtYD HKcyL ElyAy wIHaZ cidaA " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heartland.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES</span></div></div><div class="GEuLh zbpuP xsxwB fJdcs pfFen lfEIF CdGew BPRMK XXMsk vnNgJ a-dSUk kdOz ghiUR JKtQY RONPx pQPqS klBqD LvuSi pVIYM "><div class="VZTD UeCOM jIRH oimqG DjbQm UwdmX Xmrlz ReShI KaJdY lqtkC ssImf HfYhe RTHNs DqtYD nfZnv wgEBU " data-testid="prism-GridContainer"><div class="Kiog kNVGM nvpSA qwdi bmjsw " data-testid="prism-GridRow"><div class="theme-e oBTii mrzah " data-testid="prism-GridColumn" style="--grid-column-span-xxs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-xs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-sm:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-md:20;--grid-column-span-lg:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-xl:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-xxl:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-start-xxs:1;--grid-column-start-xs:1;--grid-column-start-sm:1;--grid-column-start-md:3;--grid-column-start-lg:1;--grid-column-start-xl:1;--grid-column-start-xxl:1"><div class="QHblV nkdHX mHUQ kvZxL hTosT whbOj eBWOP oNdtD gexi tdcBn iruwX kInuP BWFmj qIZQX xvuSz RSdFn vjrKj YnDa ZMryK " data-testid="prism-byline"><div class="VZTD mLASH OcxMG oJce "><div class="kKfXc ubAkB VZTD rEPuv "><div class="TQPvQ fVlAg HUcap kxY REjk UamUc WxHIR HhZOB yaUf VOJBn KMpjV XSbaH Umfib ukdDD "><span class="tChGB zbFav ">By</span><span>Lorna Parkes</span></div><div class="VZTD mLASH gpiba "><div class="jTKbV zIIsP ZdbeE xAPpq QtiLO JQYD ">May 2, 2024</div></div></div></div><div class="RwkLV Wowzl FokqZ LhXlJ 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style="--grid-column-span-xxs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-xs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-sm:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-md:20;--grid-column-span-lg:14;--grid-column-span-xl:14;--grid-column-span-xxl:14;--grid-column-start-xxs:auto;--grid-column-start-xs:auto;--grid-column-start-sm:auto;--grid-column-start-md:3;--grid-column-start-lg:0;--grid-column-start-xl:0;--grid-column-start-xxl:2"><div style="--spacing-top:40px;--spacing-bottom:32px;--spacing-child-top:initial;--spacing-child-bottom:24px;--spacing-firstChild-top:initial;--spacing-firstChild-bottom:initial;--spacing-lastChild-top:initial;--spacing-lastChild-bottom:initial;--spacing-compact-top:24px;--spacing-compact-bottom:32px;--spacing-firstChild-compact-top:initial;--spacing-firstChild-compact-bottom:initial;--spacing-child-compact-top:initial;--spacing-child-compact-bottom:24px;--spacing-lastChild-compact-top:initial;--spacing-lastChild-compact-bottom:initial" class="dHdHP jLREf zXXje aGO eCClZ nTLv jLsYA gmuro TOSFd VmeZt sCkVm hkQai wGrlE MUuGM fciaN qQjt DhNVo Tgcqk IGLAf tWjkv "><div class="PrismArticleBody DoubleColumn StartsWithInline xvlfx ZRifP TKoO eaKKC EcdEg bOdfO qXhdi NFNeu UyHES " data-testid="prism-article-body"><div class="oLzSq MvWXB fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX ebVHC "><div class="SDgng miqYR PMJVQ QtdQF WYbZw hwQoR SkUsC UlTly FxKvG BOli LbgCH nvgXD qZlJZ hdCKb " data-testid="prism-editors-note"><div class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ fIerE gzgIi sbNwD wyNiH oGaak mIoBf HPTnC SyFCf KSVzn EMccI MTazT TWYO pxDKL syqKH AAxjg AGdf YLpQy UPQXr OWaqr MWqqQ rhuiH sYoWw jOwXI GfFUP iLdhU GuqqH UXCTR ExGxl CPrEb ">This article was produced by <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).</div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">“You need to be in a relaxed mood to make couscous,” says chef Nezha Bouayadi, hair neatly tucked into her black hijab. Arabic R&B music echoes around the walled patio of The Ruined Garden, a restaurant in Fez that champions local Fassi food culture. Like many businesses in the city’s eighth-century medina, this leafy patio restaurant is hard to find, but the successful are rewarded with dishes that rarely make it onto menus — and the chance to see couscous made from scratch every Friday. </p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Nezha massages grains of semolina through a fine wooden sieve. Then, alternating between fingertips and palms, she instinctively adds splashes of water and flour, rolling the grains around a rough basket until she’s got that couscous texture. Some 20 minutes later, it’s ready to be steamed and plated with saffron-flecked roast pumpkin and courgette, then scattered with sticky caramelised raisins and marinated chickpeas. The couscous is as light as air, absorbing all the rich sweet-savoury juices.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Nezha learnt to roll couscous when she was 16, in preparation for getting married. While the dish remains a Friday lunch staple — part of weekly holy day rituals — few Fez households still make it at home this way; most opt to buy bags in shops and markets.</p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div class="natgeo-ad" data-testid="prism-ad-wrapper" style="min-width:320px;min-height:50px;transition:min-height 0.3s linear 0s" data-ad-placeholder="true"><div data-box-type="fitt-adbox-fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-testid="prism-ad"><div class="Ad fitt-article-inline-outstream ad-slot " data-slot-type="fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-slot-kvps="pos=fitt-article-inline-outstream-1"></div></div></div></div><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div><div class="InlineImage GpQCA lZur asrEW " data-testid="prism-inline-image"><figure class="kzIjN GNmeK pYrtp dSqFO " data-testid="prism-figure"><div class="lZur " data-testid="prism-copyright-wrapper"><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=374&h=561, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=748&h=1122 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=413&h=620, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=826&h=1240 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=718&h=1077, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=1436&h=2154 2x"/><img alt="A chef rolling couscous at a restaurant in Fez." class="hsDdd vBqtr KrDt itslR zFTjo hakZw HlUVI UbGlr " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg" id="Chef Nezha"/></picture></div><button aria-label="Open Fullscreen" class="mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf XbEWk jIRH nkbp OJpwZ hUQGO wSPfd ofvJb lIDy YIauu gGlNh ARCOA kyjTO xqlN gWRci aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo UVTAB hswTp sXtkB AAqU fctVp ENhiS xjUSk NatTH NqeUA dZTKY QMxMQ LpcJi wardV kcRqD fhCRd MYLFX RkJsE iEOQC yaNWn ZUpvj HoXXr " data-testid="prism-ImageViewer_ExpandButton" type="button"><span class="CSJky pdAzW JSFPu "><svg aria-hidden="true" class=" " data-testid="prism-iconography" height="1em" role="presentation" viewBox="0 0 48 48" width="1em" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" data-icon="view-fullscreenEnter"><path fill="currentColor" d="M6.48 11.24V16h3.04V9.52H16V6.48H6.48v4.76M32 8v1.52h6.48V16h3.04V6.48H32V8M6.48 36.76v4.76H16v-3.04H9.52V32H6.48v4.76m32-1.52v3.24H32v3.04h9.52V32h-3.04v3.24"/></svg></span></button><figcaption><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU PriDW lZur " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Chef Nezha Bouayadi learnt to roll couscous when she was 16, in preparation for getting married.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by LORNA PARKES</span></div></div></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy "> While times change, tradition is not taken lightly in Fez’s medina. On first appearances, life in what’s the largest car-free urban area in the world looks little different to how it was a millennium ago. Along thousands of tiny medieval alleyways, whose mud-packed walls are propped up by wooden beams, artisans hammer, polish and paint in cubbyhole shops. Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heartland. Unlike in Marrakech, where many souks now cater to travellers, Fassis still come out in force to do their shopping here on Saturdays. </p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">“Everything you see is local, seasonal and brought to the market this morning,” says Loubna El Bouchikhi the next day, on a tour of Fez’s kissaria — covered markets where we’re buying ingredients for her cooking class. Negotiating laden donkeys and hand-pulled carts, we pass tables of coriander and parsley before turning into another section where a sea of olives glistens under naked bulbs. In keeping with tradition, everything in the market is halal, and different alleys are dedicated to specific foods — like ancient supermarket aisles. </p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">We arrive at Fez Cooking School later in the day, as muezzins are announcing the adhan (call to prayer) from a mountainside bristling with minarets and Imperial tombs. The school is set on the rooftop of an 18th-century merchant’s house-turned-hotel called Palais Amani, built by a family who grew wealthy trading goods such as wool, and leather from Fez’s tanneries.</p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div><div class="InlineImage GpQCA lZur asrEW " data-testid="prism-inline-image"><figure class="kzIjN GNmeK pYrtp dSqFO " data-testid="prism-figure"><div class="lZur " data-testid="prism-copyright-wrapper"><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=374&h=249, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=748&h=498 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=413&h=275, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=826&h=550 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=718&h=479, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=1436&h=958 2x"/><img alt="Fez, an old town in Morocco on a sunny day, with the Kairaouine Mosque Minaret landmark." class="hsDdd vBqtr KrDt itslR zFTjo hakZw HlUVI UbGlr " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg" id="Moroccan cityscape"/></picture></div><button aria-label="Open Fullscreen" class="mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf XbEWk jIRH nkbp OJpwZ hUQGO wSPfd ofvJb lIDy YIauu gGlNh ARCOA kyjTO xqlN gWRci aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo UVTAB hswTp sXtkB AAqU fctVp ENhiS xjUSk NatTH NqeUA dZTKY QMxMQ LpcJi wardV kcRqD fhCRd MYLFX RkJsE iEOQC yaNWn ZUpvj HoXXr " data-testid="prism-ImageViewer_ExpandButton" type="button"><span class="CSJky pdAzW JSFPu "><svg aria-hidden="true" class=" " data-testid="prism-iconography" height="1em" role="presentation" viewBox="0 0 48 48" width="1em" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" data-icon="view-fullscreenEnter"><path fill="currentColor" d="M6.48 11.24V16h3.04V9.52H16V6.48H6.48v4.76M32 8v1.52h6.48V16h3.04V6.48H32V8M6.48 36.76v4.76H16v-3.04H9.52V32H6.48v4.76m32-1.52v3.24H32v3.04h9.52V32h-3.04v3.24"/></svg></span></button><figcaption><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU PriDW lZur " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Kairaouine mosque's minaret stands out among the honeycomb rooftops of Fez medina.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES</span></div></div></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">“Fez is like a melting pot,” says Loubna, as we stand charring aubergines on an open flame to make zaalouk — a dip similar to baba ganoush that she says was brought to Morocco by Sephardic Jews. Considered holy by Arabs, Fez was the first Moroccan city to establish a mellah — Jewish quarter — in the 15th century, in response to southern Spain’s Jewish expulsion. This ancient mixing of cultures is at least partly responsible for Fez’s reputation as the birthplace of many of Morocco’s signature dishes — pastillas and tagines among them.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">“When the Sephardic Jewish people came to Morocco, they brought a lot of cooking techniques,” explains Loubna. Among them were the processing of olives and pickling of vegetables, along with the recipes for pastillas — pies stuffed with cinnamon and meats such as pigeon, dusted with icing sugar. “That combination of sweet and savoury is 100% Sephardic origin,” she says. </p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div class="natgeo-ad" data-testid="prism-ad-wrapper" style="min-width:300px;min-height:250px;transition:min-height 0.3s linear 0s" data-ad-placeholder="true"><div data-box-type="fitt-adbox-fitt-article-inline-box" data-testid="prism-ad"><div class="Ad fitt-article-inline-box ad-slot " data-slot-type="fitt-article-inline-box" data-slot-kvps="pos=fitt-article-inline-box"></div></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Tagines and pastillas are ubiquitous on Moroccan tourist menus, but this evening they’re refreshingly absent at Nur fine-dining restaurant. “We have no pork, no bread, no couscous and no tagine!” says chef-owner Najat Kaanache, ushering me into the kitchen. Najat tells me she’s been doing a photo shoot for her next cookbook, so she’s dressed not in chef’s whites but a richly coloured kaftan that gives her the air of a Moroccan Frida Kahlo. </p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">That impression of an artist at work follows through onto the plate, in all nine beautiful courses, beginning with tiny seaweed tacos of white fish and wakame. Najat’s take on zaalouk follows, with homemade Worcestershire sauce and deliciously crisp tentacles of fried octopus, with a finale of Moroccan halba cake made with fenugreek.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Najat is a remarkable woman. Raised in a simple house near San Sebastian, northern Spain, she went to university in London, and worked with chef Ferran Adrià at El Bulli, where she met Anthony Bourdain, who put her on CNN. She’s also filmed a food documentary for National Geographic with Gordon Ramsay in the Taza mountains north of Fez, where her family are from. Returning to her roots, she opened her first Moroccan restaurant, Nur, in 2017. Two years later the Fez establishment had earned a spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. </p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div><div class="InlineImage GpQCA lZur asrEW " data-testid="prism-inline-image"><figure class="kzIjN GNmeK pYrtp dSqFO " data-testid="prism-figure"><div class="lZur " data-testid="prism-copyright-wrapper"><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=374&h=249, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=748&h=498 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=413&h=275, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=826&h=550 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=718&h=479, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=1436&h=958 2x"/><img alt="A chef in Fez preparing Squid ceviche" class="hsDdd vBqtr KrDt itslR zFTjo hakZw HlUVI UbGlr " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg" id="Chef Fez"/></picture></div><button aria-label="Open Fullscreen" class="mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf XbEWk jIRH nkbp OJpwZ hUQGO wSPfd ofvJb lIDy YIauu gGlNh ARCOA kyjTO xqlN gWRci aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo UVTAB hswTp sXtkB AAqU fctVp ENhiS xjUSk NatTH NqeUA dZTKY QMxMQ LpcJi wardV kcRqD fhCRd MYLFX RkJsE iEOQC yaNWn ZUpvj HoXXr " data-testid="prism-ImageViewer_ExpandButton" type="button"><span class="CSJky pdAzW JSFPu "><svg aria-hidden="true" class=" " data-testid="prism-iconography" height="1em" role="presentation" viewBox="0 0 48 48" width="1em" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" data-icon="view-fullscreenEnter"><path fill="currentColor" d="M6.48 11.24V16h3.04V9.52H16V6.48H6.48v4.76M32 8v1.52h6.48V16h3.04V6.48H32V8M6.48 36.76v4.76H16v-3.04H9.52V32H6.48v4.76m32-1.52v3.24H32v3.04h9.52V32h-3.04v3.24"/></svg></span></button><figcaption><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU PriDW lZur " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Fez Cooking School is set on the rooftop of an 18th-century merchant’s house-turned-hotel called Palais Amani, built by a family who grew wealthy trading goods such as wool, and leather from Fez’s tanneries.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by PALAIS AMANI HOTEL</span></div></div></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Inspired by Nur’s exclusively Moroccan wine list, I head to the rooftop bar at hotel Riad Fes, one of the medina’s highest vantage points. Up here, across a patchwork of flat-roofed dwellings, I can single out two of Morocco’s holiest sites: the pea-green pyramid roof of Moulay Idriss’s mausoleum, and the tall minaret tower of Kairaouine mosque and university, established in 859 and considered the world’s oldest university.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">While alcohol is forbidden in Islam, Morocco’s winemaking heartland has nevertheless thrived around the country’s most sacred city, originating in vineyards established during the French protectorate era (1912-1956). Restaurants and hotels like Riad Fes are champions of local wineries such as Chateau Roslane, whose complex signature Cabernet Merlot is the standout of the five I try, including a Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay blend grown close to the UNESCO-listed Roman ruins of Volubilis nearby, a ‘gris’ dry rosé blush from Meknes and a peppery Syrah made near Casablanca.</p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div class="natgeo-ad" data-testid="prism-ad-wrapper" style="min-width:320px;min-height:50px;transition:min-height 0.3s linear 0s" data-ad-placeholder="true"><div data-box-type="fitt-adbox-fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-testid="prism-ad"><div class="Ad fitt-article-inline-outstream ad-slot " data-slot-type="fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-slot-kvps="pos=fitt-article-inline-outstream-2"></div></div></div></div><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div><div class="InlineImage GpQCA lZur asrEW " data-testid="prism-inline-image"><figure class="kzIjN GNmeK pYrtp dSqFO " data-testid="prism-figure"><div class="lZur " data-testid="prism-copyright-wrapper"><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=374&h=249, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=748&h=498 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=413&h=275, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=826&h=550 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=718&h=479, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=1436&h=958 2x"/><img alt="The roof terrace at Palais Amani Riad hotel on a sunny day, with views of the Fez Medina below" class="hsDdd vBqtr KrDt itslR zFTjo hakZw HlUVI UbGlr " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg" id="Roof Terrace Fez"/></picture></div><button aria-label="Open Fullscreen" class="mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf XbEWk jIRH nkbp OJpwZ hUQGO wSPfd ofvJb lIDy YIauu gGlNh ARCOA kyjTO xqlN gWRci aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo UVTAB hswTp sXtkB AAqU fctVp ENhiS xjUSk NatTH NqeUA dZTKY QMxMQ LpcJi wardV kcRqD fhCRd MYLFX RkJsE iEOQC yaNWn ZUpvj HoXXr " data-testid="prism-ImageViewer_ExpandButton" type="button"><span class="CSJky pdAzW JSFPu "><svg aria-hidden="true" class=" " data-testid="prism-iconography" height="1em" role="presentation" viewBox="0 0 48 48" width="1em" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" data-icon="view-fullscreenEnter"><path fill="currentColor" d="M6.48 11.24V16h3.04V9.52H16V6.48H6.48v4.76M32 8v1.52h6.48V16h3.04V6.48H32V8M6.48 36.76v4.76H16v-3.04H9.52V32H6.48v4.76m32-1.52v3.24H32v3.04h9.52V32h-3.04v3.24"/></svg></span></button><figcaption><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU PriDW lZur " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">The roof terrace at Palais Amani riad hotel allows for stunning views of the Fez medina.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by PALAIS AMANI HOTEL</span></div></div></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Ready for dinner, I head back to the medina where queues are starting to form at snack vendors along the ancient main street of Talaa Kebira. The throaty call of a drum guides me to an alleyway so dark I’m half convinced I’m lost. But this is the entrance to Cafe Clock. When Brit Mike Richardson opened this cultural hub in 2007, after a London career in hospitality that included time at The Wolseley, he wanted to create a bridge between travellers and the local community. Today, 40% of the cafe’s footfall is Moroccan — which is no mean feat for a foreign-owned business in Fez. Mike has since opened Clocks in Marrakech and Chefchaouen, but the original — which plays host to a cinema, art exhibitions and regular music performances — is still an institution.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">I nab the last seat as a group of musicians in white djellabas (robes) warm up instruments for an aissawa performance showcasing a celebratory form of call and response music from the nearby Middle Atlas mountains. People are drinking tea and milkshakes amid chatter in Darija, Morocco’s Arabic dialect, and I order Cafe Clock’s signature dish: the camel burger. </p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy ">Lean, nutritious and with its origins steeped in traditions of nomadic Arabic desert culture, camel meat is still sold along Talaa Kebira today — but it’s typically only eaten by Moroccans at celebrations. As I wait for food, the cafe feels like it’s gearing up for a fittingly raucous shindig. The burger arrives, patties piled high with gherkins and homemade tomato and cinnamon ketchup, just as the drumming picks up pace. It’s an unusual taste: gamey, but light. Around me, hands start to twirl, heads bob, people clear their throats to sing. And so, the beat goes on, as it has in Fez for a millennium — just with a few new rhythms. </p><h2 class="RxNCg ykkUm PvZ nIjPJ PMXYp LmsHF SfAHY mNgye lNbol LBPRq ">Where to eat in Fez, Morocco</h2><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div><div class="InlineImage GpQCA lZur asrEW " data-testid="prism-inline-image"><figure class="kzIjN GNmeK pYrtp dSqFO " data-testid="prism-figure"><div class="lZur " data-testid="prism-copyright-wrapper"><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 374px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=374&h=561, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=748&h=1122 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 375px) and (max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=413&h=620, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=826&h=1240 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=718&h=1077, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=1436&h=2154 2x"/><img alt="Moroccan squid ceviche, sprinkled with petals." class="hsDdd vBqtr KrDt itslR zFTjo hakZw HlUVI UbGlr " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg" id="Squid Ceviche Fez"/></picture></div><button aria-label="Open Fullscreen" class="mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf XbEWk jIRH nkbp OJpwZ hUQGO wSPfd ofvJb lIDy YIauu gGlNh ARCOA kyjTO xqlN gWRci aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo UVTAB hswTp sXtkB AAqU fctVp ENhiS xjUSk NatTH NqeUA dZTKY QMxMQ LpcJi wardV kcRqD fhCRd MYLFX RkJsE iEOQC yaNWn ZUpvj HoXXr " data-testid="prism-ImageViewer_ExpandButton" type="button"><span class="CSJky pdAzW JSFPu "><svg aria-hidden="true" class=" " data-testid="prism-iconography" height="1em" role="presentation" viewBox="0 0 48 48" width="1em" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" data-icon="view-fullscreenEnter"><path fill="currentColor" d="M6.48 11.24V16h3.04V9.52H16V6.48H6.48v4.76M32 8v1.52h6.48V16h3.04V6.48H32V8M6.48 36.76v4.76H16v-3.04H9.52V32H6.48v4.76m32-1.52v3.24H32v3.04h9.52V32h-3.04v3.24"/></svg></span></button><figcaption><div class="nMMea bNYiy Mjgpa dGwha DDmxa jgKNG RGHCC aBIU PriDW lZur " data-testid="prism-caption"><div class="HXPPJ barbu yKsXL IzgMt VcHIt uhSzI YGNMU cRAsZ xqMcl QtRul "><span class="hsDdd OOSI GpQCA lZur VlFaz " data-testid="prism-truncate"><span><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ ">Squid ceviche is just one of the speciality dishes prepared at fusion restaurant, Nur.</span></span></span></div><div class="qinlA IpWvx oqZz tylGM lyWxS nWcVF UhTug PPcLh "><span class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ YNujN JGtjI aZFDu rkKLh ">Photograph by JAVIER PEÑAS</span></div></div></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy "><b class="cXscX ">1. </b><a class="zZygg UbGlr iFzkS qdXbA WCDhQ DbOXS tqUtK GpWVU iJYzE " data-testid="prism-linkbase" href="https://nurfez.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><b class="cXscX ">Nur</b></a><br class=" "/>The food at this fusion medina restaurant is as cutting-edge as its off-the-wall monochrome decor. The menu by Spanish-Moroccan chef Najat Kaanache offers an eclectic mix of dishes, from calamari with lemongrass broth to duck with artichoke, truffle and Moroccan spices. Tasting menus from US$80 (£63) per person, excluding wine.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy "><b class="cXscX ">2. Abdullah's tea stall</b><br class=" "/>Affable Abdullah Touati has run a tea counter in Fez medina since 1969, just off the metal-workers’ Place Seffarine. He uses a blend of herbs — peppermint, spearmint, sage, marjoram, absinthe and lemon verbena — grown behind his house on the edge of the city. It’s served to locals and travellers at low plastic stools piled with cushions. 10 MAD (80p) a glass. </p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div class="natgeo-ad" data-testid="prism-ad-wrapper" style="min-width:320px;min-height:50px;transition:min-height 0.3s linear 0s" data-ad-placeholder="true"><div data-box-type="fitt-adbox-fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-testid="prism-ad"><div class="Ad fitt-article-inline-outstream ad-slot " data-slot-type="fitt-article-inline-outstream" data-slot-kvps="pos=fitt-article-inline-outstream-3"></div></div></div></div><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy "><b class="cXscX ">3. </b><a class="zZygg UbGlr iFzkS qdXbA WCDhQ DbOXS tqUtK GpWVU iJYzE " data-testid="prism-linkbase" href="https://www.facebook.com/fondoukbazaarfes" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><b class="cXscX ">Foundouk Bazaar</b></a><br class=" "/>Paper lanterns lead up to inviting roof terraces at this contemporary Moroccan cafe-restaurant above the ancient medina thoroughfare of Talaa Kebira. Popular with young Fassis, the menu runs from dishes such as shakshuka to tagliatelle with feta and olives. The orange-blossom and cinnamon lassi tastes like Morocco in a glass. 175 MAD (£14) for three courses.</p><p class="EkqkG IGXmU nlgHS yuUao lqtkC TjIXL aGjvy "><b class="cXscX ">4. Bissara soup stands</b><br class=" "/>In the Al Aachabin food section of Fez el Bali medina, split-pea soup is made the traditional way, the peas slow-cooked and smashed with a long wooden pole akin to a baseball bat. Popular at breakfast, it’s served with olive oil and ground cumin. 15 MAD (£1.15) per bowl. </p><div class="oLzSq QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX "><div class="LoCYw blgIc QcZAj wGwCE XfBPw McMna ubPuV pdYhu RBrva " role="complementary" data-testid="prism-listicle"><div class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ wMUi BSxhF Qcvvy Rmxn qLtV "><b>How to do it: <br></b>Ryanair is the only airline that flies direct to Fez from the UK, with twice-weekly departures from Stansted. Stays at the 21-room Palais Amani riad hotel, home to Fez Cooking School, start from €196 (£167) per night, B&B; market tours with cooking classes cost €165 (£141) per person.<a href="https://www.ryanair.com/gb/en" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> ryanair.com</a> <a href="https://www.palaisamani.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">palaisamani.com</a><br><br><i>This story was created with the support of Palais Amani.</i></div></div></div><div class="eTIW QrHMO fnRUo pvsTF EhJPu vPlOC zNYgW OsTsW RMeqy daRVX ISNQ sKyCY eRftA acPPc MENS nFwaT MCnQE mEeeY SmBjI xegrY rPLsU iulOd NIuqO zzscu lzDCc aHUBM IEgzD OjMNy eQqcx SVqKB GQmdz jaoD VWDdR ONJdw vrZxD OnRTz gbbfF roDbV GPGwb oMlSS gfNzt oJhud eXZcf zhVlX sUzSN "><div class="SDgng miqYR PMJVQ QtdQF WYbZw hwQoR SkUsC UlTly FxKvG BOli LbgCH nvgXD qZlJZ hdCKb " data-testid="prism-editors-note"><div class="gtOSm FbbUW tUtYa vOCwz EQwFq yCufu eEak Qmvg nyTIa SRXVc vzLa jgBfc WXDas CiUCW kqbG zrdEG txGfn ygKVe BbezD UOtxr CVfpq xijV soGRS XgdC sEIlf daWqJ fIerE gzgIi sbNwD wyNiH oGaak mIoBf HPTnC SyFCf KSVzn EMccI MTazT TWYO pxDKL syqKH AAxjg AGdf YLpQy UPQXr OWaqr MWqqQ rhuiH sYoWw jOwXI GfFUP iLdhU GuqqH UXCTR ExGxl CPrEb ">Published in the May 2024 issue of <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).<br><br>To subscribe to <i>National Geographic Traveller</i> (UK) magazine click <a href="https://subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">here</a>. (Available in select countries only).</div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="theme-e FITT_Article_main__sidebar oBTii mrzah pNwJE iWsMV vkle " data-testid="prism-GridColumn" style="--grid-column-span-xxs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-xs:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-sm:var(--grid-columns);--grid-column-span-md:20;--grid-column-span-lg:9;--grid-column-span-xl:8;--grid-column-span-xxl:8;--grid-column-start-xxs:auto;--grid-column-start-xs:auto;--grid-column-start-sm:auto;--grid-column-start-md:3;--grid-column-start-lg:16;--grid-column-start-xl:17;--grid-column-start-xxl:17"><div 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rTpcz EDgo SIwmX oIWqB mzm MbcTC sXtkB yayQB vXSTR ENhiS dQa-Du SVBll bpBbX GpQCA tuAKv xTell wdAqb ZqGqs LVAIE TnrRA uECag DcwSV XnBOJ cELRj SUAFz XzYk zkmjG aSyef pFen hoNVj TQOOL Haltu NafGB KpEhF jyjDy kZHqU FZKIw QddLR SKDYB UmcQM giepU cTjQC aRMla MMxXy fFMcX PbMFf hJRbU MRTyf iFJTR koyYF TkdYt DZNRX MALjb VUFMN " data-testid="prism-Tag" href="/related/0c58f641-5272-35ea-8276-e0ca993ce139/food-tourism" data-pos="0"><span class="QXDKT rGjeC tuAKv iMbiE ">FOOD TOURISM</span></a></li><li class=" "><a class="theme-iPcRv theme-HReFq mLASH egFzk qXWHA ScoIf zYXIH jIRH wNxoc OJpwZ eqFg wSPfd ofvJb bMrzT LaUnX EgONj ibBnq kyjTO lvyBv aANqO aNnIu GDslh LjPJo RpDvg YYtC rTpcz EDgo SIwmX oIWqB mzm MbcTC sXtkB yayQB vXSTR ENhiS dQa-Du SVBll bpBbX GpQCA tuAKv xTell wdAqb ZqGqs LVAIE TnrRA uECag DcwSV XnBOJ cELRj SUAFz XzYk zkmjG aSyef pFen hoNVj TQOOL Haltu NafGB KpEhF jyjDy kZHqU FZKIw QddLR SKDYB UmcQM giepU cTjQC aRMla MMxXy fFMcX PbMFf hJRbU MRTyf iFJTR koyYF TkdYt DZNRX MALjb VUFMN " 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srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=718&h=539, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=1436&h=1078 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1025px) and (max-width: 1260px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=300&h=225, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=600&h=450 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1261px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=612&h=459, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png?w=1224&h=918 2x"/><img alt="" class="hsDdd " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a43292a3-6f6b-4ee4-b1b6-caa80952cba0/busanstreetfoodresized3_4x3.png"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="QGHKv iVcn avodi rEPuv ICwhc ibBnq seFhp WtEci "><div class="VZTD rEPuv QXDKT sAjcO " data-testid="prism-meta"><div class="CJAFL gDeX "><div class="mLASH VZTD UeCOM wSnmx ltDkr MjHGf rmiAn vvBSK " id="WhyyoushouldtryBusantags"><div class="wXbPV YAJid wPGsL ">TRAVEL</div></div><h2 class="PFoxV eBpQD rcQBv bQtjQ lQUdN GpQCA mAkiF FvMyr WvoqU " id="WhyyoushouldtryBusanheadline">Why you should try Busan's street food</h2></div></div></div></a></div><div class="liAe uMOq zYIfP pYgZk Mxrkk hsDdd lZur TPpRg NoUSU igcMP DtJWr QgBvn DFdlJ MpFZk " data-testid="prism-card"><a class="iVcn UbGlr ibBnq qdXbA avodi DbOXS tqUtK GpWVU iJYzE QGHKv rEPuv ICwhc seFhp WtEci dVINO " data-testid="prism-linkbase" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/what-to-eat-in-hong-kong-china" aria-label="A taste of Hong Kong, the home of Cantonese food" aria-describedby="AtasteofHongKongthehtags"><div class="hsDdd GpQCA lZur BOsoU YMZw dihEb srtah LmIPo JzlZQ VbrfA zZsl kjmkg OwbFk QuuaM cBQOR "><div class="GpQCA lZur lIngG nFtJ GHKp awJgN EuJtJ " data-testid="prism-ratio-frame"><div class="FvQLF iLTd NqeUA UzzHi iWsMV "><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=300&h=225, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=600&h=450 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px) and (max-width: 767px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=612&h=459, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=1224&h=918 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=350&h=263, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=700&h=526 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1025px) and (max-width: 1260px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=195&h=146, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=390&h=292 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1261px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=400&h=300, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg?w=800&h=600 2x"/><img alt="" class="hsDdd " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/7ebf6757-eb04-418e-8af6-ddb36eab6282/atasteofhongkonglandscape_4x3.jpg"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="QGHKv iVcn avodi rEPuv ICwhc ibBnq seFhp WtEci "><div class="VZTD rEPuv QXDKT sAjcO " data-testid="prism-meta"><div class="CJAFL gDeX "><div class="mLASH VZTD UeCOM wSnmx ltDkr MjHGf rmiAn vvBSK " id="AtasteofHongKongthehtags"><div class="wXbPV YAJid wPGsL ">TRAVEL</div></div><h2 class="PFoxV eBpQD rcQBv bQtjQ lQUdN GpQCA mAkiF FvMyr WvoqU " id="AtasteofHongKongthehheadline">A taste of Hong Kong, the home of Cantonese food</h2></div></div></div></a></div><div class="liAe uMOq zYIfP pYgZk Mxrkk hsDdd lZur TPpRg NoUSU igcMP DtJWr QgBvn DFdlJ MpFZk " data-testid="prism-card"><a class="iVcn UbGlr ibBnq qdXbA avodi DbOXS tqUtK GpWVU iJYzE QGHKv rEPuv ICwhc seFhp WtEci dVINO " data-testid="prism-linkbase" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/where-to-eat-lisbons-best-pastel-de-nata" aria-label="Where to eat Lisbon’s best pastel de nata" aria-describedby="WheretoeatLisbonsbestags"><div class="hsDdd GpQCA lZur BOsoU YMZw dihEb srtah LmIPo JzlZQ VbrfA zZsl kjmkg OwbFk QuuaM cBQOR "><div class="GpQCA lZur lIngG nFtJ GHKp awJgN EuJtJ " data-testid="prism-ratio-frame"><div class="FvQLF iLTd NqeUA UzzHi iWsMV "><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=300&h=225, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=600&h=450 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px) and (max-width: 767px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=612&h=459, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=1224&h=918 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=350&h=263, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=700&h=526 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1025px) and (max-width: 1260px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=195&h=146, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=390&h=292 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1261px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=400&h=300, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg?w=800&h=600 2x"/><img alt="" class="hsDdd " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/e5f40919-0a44-4c82-ac89-b723ebf6cda4/pastelariaalomatray_4x3.jpg"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="QGHKv iVcn avodi rEPuv ICwhc ibBnq seFhp WtEci "><div class="VZTD rEPuv QXDKT sAjcO " data-testid="prism-meta"><div class="CJAFL gDeX "><div class="mLASH VZTD UeCOM wSnmx ltDkr MjHGf rmiAn vvBSK " id="WheretoeatLisbonsbestags"><div class="wXbPV YAJid wPGsL ">TRAVEL</div></div><h2 class="PFoxV eBpQD rcQBv bQtjQ lQUdN GpQCA mAkiF FvMyr WvoqU " id="WheretoeatLisbonsbesheadline">Where to eat Lisbon’s best pastel de nata</h2></div></div></div></a></div><div class="liAe uMOq zYIfP pYgZk Mxrkk hsDdd lZur TPpRg NoUSU igcMP DtJWr QgBvn DFdlJ MpFZk " data-testid="prism-card"><a class="iVcn UbGlr ibBnq qdXbA avodi DbOXS tqUtK GpWVU iJYzE QGHKv rEPuv ICwhc seFhp WtEci dVINO " data-testid="prism-linkbase" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/traditional-family-meal-liechtenstein" aria-label="This is what a family meal looks like in Liechtenstein" aria-describedby="Thisiswhatafamilymeatags"><div class="hsDdd GpQCA lZur BOsoU YMZw dihEb srtah LmIPo JzlZQ VbrfA zZsl kjmkg OwbFk QuuaM cBQOR "><div class="GpQCA lZur lIngG nFtJ GHKp awJgN EuJtJ " data-testid="prism-ratio-frame"><div class="FvQLF iLTd NqeUA UzzHi iWsMV "><picture data-testid="prism-picture"><source media="(max-width: 413px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=300&h=225, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=600&h=450 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 414px) and (max-width: 767px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=612&h=459, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=1224&h=918 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=350&h=263, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=700&h=526 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1025px) and (max-width: 1260px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=195&h=146, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=390&h=292 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 1261px)" srcSet="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=400&h=300, https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png?w=800&h=600 2x"/><img alt="" class="hsDdd " data-testid="prism-image" draggable="false" src="https://i.natgeofe.com/n/99bb84ff-1207-4239-8ee5-ce1238845008/familymeal2_4x3.png"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="QGHKv iVcn avodi rEPuv ICwhc ibBnq seFhp WtEci "><div class="VZTD rEPuv QXDKT sAjcO " data-testid="prism-meta"><div class="CJAFL gDeX "><div class="mLASH VZTD UeCOM wSnmx ltDkr MjHGf rmiAn vvBSK " id="Thisiswhatafamilymeatags"><div class="wXbPV YAJid wPGsL ">TRAVEL</div></div><h2 class="PFoxV eBpQD rcQBv bQtjQ lQUdN GpQCA mAkiF FvMyr WvoqU " id="Thisiswhatafamilymeaheadline">This is what a family meal looks like in Liechtenstein</h2></div></div></div></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div class="FrameBackgroundFull"><div 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selection of Moroccan souks to contain tajine, painted with a variation of colours and designs.","crdt":"Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES","dsc":"Assorted Moroccan tajines in a souk.","ttl":"Moroccan souk","rchDsc":{"markup":"Assorted Moroccan tajines in a souk."},"rchTtl":{"markup":"Moroccan souk "}},"imageAlt":"A selection of Moroccan souks to contain tajine, painted with a variation of colours and designs."},"hideEndBug":true,"positionMetaBottom":true,"showDownArrow":false,"ctaLinkDisplay":"textLink","description":"The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.","sectionLabels":[{"name":"Travel","type":"sources","uri":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel"}],"theme":"Light","tint":"noTint","title":"Where to eat in Fez, birthplace of Morocco's finest food 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1441px)"}]}]},{"id":"natgeo-template1-frame-1-module-1","cmsType":"StackModule","align":"left","edgs":[{"dvdr":{"hideLogo":true},"cmsType":"ArticleBodyTile","id":"natgeo-template1-frame-1-module-1","bdy":[{"id":"4657e794-8072-4833-aa95-d442dff4a97a","cntnt":{"id":"4657e794-8072-4833-aa95-d442dff4a97a","cmsType":"editorsNote","note":"This article was produced by <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK)."},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html0","cntnt":{"mrkup":"“You need to be in a relaxed mood to make couscous,” says chef Nezha Bouayadi, hair neatly tucked into her black hijab. Arabic R&B music echoes around the walled patio of The Ruined Garden, a restaurant in Fez that champions local Fassi food culture. Like many businesses in the city’s eighth-century medina, this leafy patio restaurant is hard to find, but the successful are rewarded with dishes that rarely make it onto menus — and the chance to see couscous made from scratch every Friday. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html1","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Nezha massages grains of semolina through a fine wooden sieve. Then, alternating between fingertips and palms, she instinctively adds splashes of water and flour, rolling the grains around a rough basket until she’s got that couscous texture. Some 20 minutes later, it’s ready to be steamed and plated with saffron-flecked roast pumpkin and courgette, then scattered with sticky caramelised raisins and marinated chickpeas. The couscous is as light as air, absorbing all the rich sweet-savoury juices."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html2","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Nezha learnt to roll couscous when she was 16, in preparation for getting married. While the dish remains a Friday lunch staple — part of weekly holy day rituals — few Fez households still make it at home this way; most opt to buy bags in shops and markets."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"32dad4b7-2391-43c0-b04d-d19b2e5c2f5e","cntnt":{"cmsType":"image","ariaLabel":"image","align":"contentWidth","belowParagraph":true,"envNme":"prod","flags":{"hideTitle":true},"qryStr":"userab=ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126&forceMode=fitt","mrkup":"","placement":"inline"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html3","cntnt":{"mrkup":" While times change, tradition is not taken lightly in Fez’s medina. On first appearances, life in what’s the largest car-free urban area in the world looks little different to how it was a millennium ago. Along thousands of tiny medieval alleyways, whose mud-packed walls are propped up by wooden beams, artisans hammer, polish and paint in cubbyhole shops. Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heartland. Unlike in Marrakech, where many souks now cater to travellers, Fassis still come out in force to do their shopping here on Saturdays. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html4","cntnt":{"mrkup":"“Everything you see is local, seasonal and brought to the market this morning,” says Loubna El Bouchikhi the next day, on a tour of Fez’s kissaria — covered markets where we’re buying ingredients for her cooking class. Negotiating laden donkeys and hand-pulled carts, we pass tables of coriander and parsley before turning into another section where a sea of olives glistens under naked bulbs. In keeping with tradition, everything in the market is halal, and different alleys are dedicated to specific foods — like ancient supermarket aisles. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html5","cntnt":{"mrkup":"We arrive at Fez Cooking School later in the day, as muezzins are announcing the adhan (call to prayer) from a mountainside bristling with minarets and Imperial tombs. The school is set on the rooftop of an 18th-century merchant’s house-turned-hotel called Palais Amani, built by a family who grew wealthy trading goods such as wool, and leather from Fez’s tanneries."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"1f03da11-d581-4af3-aa37-22ab97893959","cntnt":{"cmsType":"image","ariaLabel":"image","align":"contentWidth","belowParagraph":true,"envNme":"prod","flags":{"hideTitle":true},"qryStr":"userab=ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126&forceMode=fitt","mrkup":"","placement":"inline"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html6","cntnt":{"mrkup":"“Fez is like a melting pot,” says Loubna, as we stand charring aubergines on an open flame to make zaalouk — a dip similar to baba ganoush that she says was brought to Morocco by Sephardic Jews. Considered holy by Arabs, Fez was the first Moroccan city to establish a mellah — Jewish quarter — in the 15th century, in response to southern Spain’s Jewish expulsion. This ancient mixing of cultures is at least partly responsible for Fez’s reputation as the birthplace of many of Morocco’s signature dishes — pastillas and tagines among them."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html7","cntnt":{"mrkup":"“When the Sephardic Jewish people came to Morocco, they brought a lot of cooking techniques,” explains Loubna. Among them were the processing of olives and pickling of vegetables, along with the recipes for pastillas — pies stuffed with cinnamon and meats such as pigeon, dusted with icing sugar. “That combination of sweet and savoury is 100% Sephardic origin,” she says. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html8","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Tagines and pastillas are ubiquitous on Moroccan tourist menus, but this evening they’re refreshingly absent at Nur fine-dining restaurant. “We have no pork, no bread, no couscous and no tagine!” says chef-owner Najat Kaanache, ushering me into the kitchen. Najat tells me she’s been doing a photo shoot for her next cookbook, so she’s dressed not in chef’s whites but a richly coloured kaftan that gives her the air of a Moroccan Frida Kahlo. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html9","cntnt":{"mrkup":"That impression of an artist at work follows through onto the plate, in all nine beautiful courses, beginning with tiny seaweed tacos of white fish and wakame. Najat’s take on zaalouk follows, with homemade Worcestershire sauce and deliciously crisp tentacles of fried octopus, with a finale of Moroccan halba cake made with fenugreek."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html10","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Najat is a remarkable woman. Raised in a simple house near San Sebastian, northern Spain, she went to university in London, and worked with chef Ferran Adrià at El Bulli, where she met Anthony Bourdain, who put her on CNN. She’s also filmed a food documentary for National Geographic with Gordon Ramsay in the Taza mountains north of Fez, where her family are from. Returning to her roots, she opened her first Moroccan restaurant, Nur, in 2017. Two years later the Fez establishment had earned a spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"f6468882-5588-4e14-9818-069c42a0affd","cntnt":{"cmsType":"image","ariaLabel":"image","align":"contentWidth","belowParagraph":true,"envNme":"prod","flags":{"hideTitle":true},"qryStr":"userab=ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126&forceMode=fitt","mrkup":"","placement":"inline"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html11","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Inspired by Nur’s exclusively Moroccan wine list, I head to the rooftop bar at hotel Riad Fes, one of the medina’s highest vantage points. Up here, across a patchwork of flat-roofed dwellings, I can single out two of Morocco’s holiest sites: the pea-green pyramid roof of Moulay Idriss’s mausoleum, and the tall minaret tower of Kairaouine mosque and university, established in 859 and considered the world’s oldest university."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html12","cntnt":{"mrkup":"While alcohol is forbidden in Islam, Morocco’s winemaking heartland has nevertheless thrived around the country’s most sacred city, originating in vineyards established during the French protectorate era (1912-1956). Restaurants and hotels like Riad Fes are champions of local wineries such as Chateau Roslane, whose complex signature Cabernet Merlot is the standout of the five I try, including a Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay blend grown close to the UNESCO-listed Roman ruins of Volubilis nearby, a ‘gris’ dry rosé blush from Meknes and a peppery Syrah made near Casablanca."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"cd8bee0c-9bed-4bb8-8548-b87364636406","cntnt":{"cmsType":"image","ariaLabel":"image","align":"contentWidth","belowParagraph":true,"envNme":"prod","flags":{"hideTitle":true},"qryStr":"userab=ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126&forceMode=fitt","mrkup":"","placement":"inline"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html13","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Ready for dinner, I head back to the medina where queues are starting to form at snack vendors along the ancient main street of Talaa Kebira. The throaty call of a drum guides me to an alleyway so dark I’m half convinced I’m lost. But this is the entrance to Cafe Clock. When Brit Mike Richardson opened this cultural hub in 2007, after a London career in hospitality that included time at The Wolseley, he wanted to create a bridge between travellers and the local community. Today, 40% of the cafe’s footfall is Moroccan — which is no mean feat for a foreign-owned business in Fez. Mike has since opened Clocks in Marrakech and Chefchaouen, but the original — which plays host to a cinema, art exhibitions and regular music performances — is still an institution."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html14","cntnt":{"mrkup":"I nab the last seat as a group of musicians in white djellabas (robes) warm up instruments for an aissawa performance showcasing a celebratory form of call and response music from the nearby Middle Atlas mountains. People are drinking tea and milkshakes amid chatter in Darija, Morocco’s Arabic dialect, and I order Cafe Clock’s signature dish: the camel burger. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html15","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Lean, nutritious and with its origins steeped in traditions of nomadic Arabic desert culture, camel meat is still sold along Talaa Kebira today — but it’s typically only eaten by Moroccans at celebrations. As I wait for food, the cafe feels like it’s gearing up for a fittingly raucous shindig. The burger arrives, patties piled high with gherkins and homemade tomato and cinnamon ketchup, just as the drumming picks up pace. It’s an unusual taste: gamey, but light. Around me, hands start to twirl, heads bob, people clear their throats to sing. And so, the beat goes on, as it has in Fez for a millennium — just with a few new rhythms. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html16","cntnt":{"mrkup":"Where to eat in Fez, Morocco"},"type":"h2","style":{}},{"id":"c55db5cd-0788-413e-a787-d8f199f732a1","cntnt":{"cmsType":"image","ariaLabel":"image","align":"contentWidth","belowHeader":true,"envNme":"prod","flags":{"hideTitle":true},"qryStr":"userab=ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126&forceMode=fitt","mrkup":"","placement":"inline"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"html17","cntnt":{"mrkup":"<b>1. </b><a href=\"https://nurfez.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Nur</b></a><br>The food at this fusion medina restaurant is as cutting-edge as its off-the-wall monochrome decor. The menu by Spanish-Moroccan chef Najat Kaanache offers an eclectic mix of dishes, from calamari with lemongrass broth to duck with artichoke, truffle and Moroccan spices. Tasting menus from US$80 (£63) per person, excluding wine."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html18","cntnt":{"mrkup":"<b>2. Abdullah's tea stall</b><br>Affable Abdullah Touati has run a tea counter in Fez medina since 1969, just off the metal-workers’ Place Seffarine. He uses a blend of herbs — peppermint, spearmint, sage, marjoram, absinthe and lemon verbena — grown behind his house on the edge of the city. It’s served to locals and travellers at low plastic stools piled with cushions. 10 MAD (80p) a glass. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html19","cntnt":{"mrkup":"<b>3. </b><a href=\"https://www.facebook.com/fondoukbazaarfes\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Foundouk Bazaar</b></a><br>Paper lanterns lead up to inviting roof terraces at this contemporary Moroccan cafe-restaurant above the ancient medina thoroughfare of Talaa Kebira. Popular with young Fassis, the menu runs from dishes such as shakshuka to tagliatelle with feta and olives. The orange-blossom and cinnamon lassi tastes like Morocco in a glass. 175 MAD (£14) for three courses."},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"html20","cntnt":{"mrkup":"<b>4. Bissara soup stands</b><br>In the Al Aachabin food section of Fez el Bali medina, split-pea soup is made the traditional way, the peas slow-cooked and smashed with a long wooden pole akin to a baseball bat. Popular at breakfast, it’s served with olive oil and ground cumin. 15 MAD (£1.15) per bowl. "},"type":"p","style":{}},{"id":"8aa66b4d-32ce-4795-8f46-3cd220e5602f","cntnt":{"cmsType":"listicle","id":"8aa66b4d-32ce-4795-8f46-3cd220e5602f","hasCopyright":true,"showNumbering":true,"text":"<b>How to do it: <br></b>Ryanair is the only airline that flies direct to Fez from the UK, with twice-weekly departures from Stansted. Stays at the 21-room Palais Amani riad hotel, home to Fez Cooking School, start from €196 (£167) per night, B&B; market tours with cooking classes cost €165 (£141) per person.<a href=\"https://www.ryanair.com/gb/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> ryanair.com</a> <a href=\"https://www.palaisamani.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">palaisamani.com</a><br><br><i>This story was created with the support of Palais Amani.</i>"},"type":"inline","style":{}},{"id":"fdf89677-dd00-4a0b-920b-871ce27ffa0f","cntnt":{"id":"fdf89677-dd00-4a0b-920b-871ce27ffa0f","cmsType":"editorsNote","note":"Published in the May 2024 issue of <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).<br><br>To subscribe to <i>National Geographic Traveller</i> (UK) magazine click <a href=\"https://subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here</a>. (Available in select countries only)."},"type":"inline","style":{}}],"cid":"drn:src:natgeo:unison::prod:df4596e0-67a7-4046-a283-2af340c81e9a","cntrbGrp":[{"contributors":[{"displayName":"Lorna Parkes"}],"title":"By","rl":"Writer"}],"mode":"richtext","enableAds":true,"endbug":true,"hsImmrsvLd":true,"isMetered":false,"isUserAuthed":false,"isTruncated":false,"isEntitled":false,"freemiumContentGatingEnabled":true,"premiumContentGatingEnabled":false,"mdDt":"2024-04-30T15:06:27.742Z","schma":{"athrs":[{"name":"Lorna Parkes"}],"cnnicl":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/where-to-eat-fez-morocco","kywrds":"travel, food tourism, Fez, Morocco, where to eat in Fez, Fez Medina, Moroccan food, food, recipes, Moroccan wine, wine, Fez food, tour of Fez, local food Morocco, experimental kitchens, traditional food Fez, food traditions, Palais Amani, food history, tagine, Nur, fine-dining, Fondouk Bazaar, wineries, Marrakech, Cafe","lg":"https://assets-cdn.nationalgeographic.com/natgeo/static/default.NG.logo.dark.jpg","pblshr":"National Geographic","abt":"Food Tourism","sclDsc":"The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.","sclImg":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2_16x9.jpg?w=1200","sclTtl":"Where to eat in Fez, Morocco"},"sctn":"Travel","wrdcnt":1826,"dt":"2024-05-02T12:00:00.000Z","prismData":{"mainComponents":[{"name":"Body","props":{"body":[[{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"EditorsNote","props":{"body":"This article was produced by <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).","header":null},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":["“You need to be in a relaxed mood to make couscous,” says chef Nezha Bouayadi, hair neatly tucked into her black hijab. Arabic R","&","B music echoes around the walled patio of The Ruined Garden, a restaurant in Fez that champions local Fassi food culture. Like many businesses in the city’s eighth-century medina, this leafy patio restaurant is hard to find, but the successful are rewarded with dishes that rarely make it onto menus — and the chance to see couscous made from scratch every Friday."," "]},{"type":"p","content":["Nezha massages grains of semolina through a fine wooden sieve. Then, alternating between fingertips and palms, she instinctively adds splashes of water and flour, rolling the grains around a rough basket until she’s got that couscous texture. Some 20 minutes later, it’s ready to be steamed and plated with saffron-flecked roast pumpkin and courgette, then scattered with sticky caramelised raisins and marinated chickpeas. The couscous is as light as air, absorbing all the rich sweet-savoury juices."]},{"type":"p","content":["Nezha learnt to roll couscous when she was 16, in preparation for getting married. While the dish remains a Friday lunch staple — part of weekly holy day rituals — few Fez households still make it at home this way; most opt to buy bags in shops and markets."]}],{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Ad","props":{"ad":{"kvps":{"pos":"fitt-article-inline-outstream-1"},"type":"fitt-article-inline-outstream","className":"fitt-article-inline-outstream"},"className":"natgeo-ad","placeholders":{"compact":{"size":[320,50]},"regular":{"size":[320,50]}},"initSelf":true},"context":{},"config":{"gridDisplayMode":"none"}}},[{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Image","props":{"link":{},"caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by LORNA PARKES","source":"","text":"Chef Nezha Bouayadi learnt to roll couscous when she was 16, in preparation for getting married.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false},"image":{"id":"Chef Nezha","showCopyright":"Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"A chef rolling couscous at a restaurant in Fez.","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=374&h=561","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=748&h=1122"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=413&h=620","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=826&h=1240"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=718&h=1077","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/97ef9cbd-5c37-4457-a1bf-5977f194202b/fez3.jpg?w=1436&h=2154"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"disableFullscreen":false},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full","alignXxs":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":[" ","While times change, tradition is not taken lightly in Fez’s medina. On first appearances, life in what’s the largest car-free urban area in the world looks little different to how it was a millennium ago. Along thousands of tiny medieval alleyways, whose mud-packed walls are propped up by wooden beams, artisans hammer, polish and paint in cubbyhole shops. Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heartland. Unlike in Marrakech, where many souks now cater to travellers, Fassis still come out in force to do their shopping here on Saturdays."," "]},{"type":"p","content":["“Everything you see is local, seasonal and brought to the market this morning,” says Loubna El Bouchikhi the next day, on a tour of Fez’s kissaria — covered markets where we’re buying ingredients for her cooking class. Negotiating laden donkeys and hand-pulled carts, we pass tables of coriander and parsley before turning into another section where a sea of olives glistens under naked bulbs. In keeping with tradition, everything in the market is halal, and different alleys are dedicated to specific foods — like ancient supermarket aisles."," "]},{"type":"p","content":["We arrive at Fez Cooking School later in the day, as muezzins are announcing the adhan (call to prayer) from a mountainside bristling with minarets and Imperial tombs. The school is set on the rooftop of an 18th-century merchant’s house-turned-hotel called Palais Amani, built by a family who grew wealthy trading goods such as wool, and leather from Fez’s tanneries."]},{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Image","props":{"link":{},"caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES","source":"","text":"Kairaouine mosque's minaret stands out among the honeycomb rooftops of Fez medina.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false},"image":{"id":"Moroccan cityscape","showCopyright":"Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"Fez, an old town in Morocco on a sunny day, with the Kairaouine Mosque Minaret landmark.","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=374&h=249","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=748&h=498"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=413&h=275","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=826&h=550"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=718&h=479","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/49134868-7412-406f-9b8c-7e0ac1bed063/fez1.jpg?w=1436&h=958"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"disableFullscreen":false},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full","alignXxs":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":["“Fez is like a melting pot,” says Loubna, as we stand charring aubergines on an open flame to make zaalouk — a dip similar to baba ganoush that she says was brought to Morocco by Sephardic Jews. Considered holy by Arabs, Fez was the first Moroccan city to establish a mellah — Jewish quarter — in the 15th century, in response to southern Spain’s Jewish expulsion. This ancient mixing of cultures is at least partly responsible for Fez’s reputation as the birthplace of many of Morocco’s signature dishes — pastillas and tagines among them."]},{"type":"p","content":["“When the Sephardic Jewish people came to Morocco, they brought a lot of cooking techniques,” explains Loubna. Among them were the processing of olives and pickling of vegetables, along with the recipes for pastillas — pies stuffed with cinnamon and meats such as pigeon, dusted with icing sugar. “That combination of sweet and savoury is 100% Sephardic origin,” she says."," "]}],{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Ad","props":{"ad":{"type":"fitt-article-inline-box","className":"fitt-article-inline-box"},"className":"natgeo-ad","placeholders":{"compact":{"size":[300,250]},"regular":{"size":[300,250]}},"initSelf":true},"context":{},"config":{"gridDisplayMode":"none"}}},[{"type":"p","content":["Tagines and pastillas are ubiquitous on Moroccan tourist menus, but this evening they’re refreshingly absent at Nur fine-dining restaurant. “We have no pork, no bread, no couscous and no tagine!” says chef-owner Najat Kaanache, ushering me into the kitchen. Najat tells me she’s been doing a photo shoot for her next cookbook, so she’s dressed not in chef’s whites but a richly coloured kaftan that gives her the air of a Moroccan Frida Kahlo."," "]},{"type":"p","content":["That impression of an artist at work follows through onto the plate, in all nine beautiful courses, beginning with tiny seaweed tacos of white fish and wakame. Najat’s take on zaalouk follows, with homemade Worcestershire sauce and deliciously crisp tentacles of fried octopus, with a finale of Moroccan halba cake made with fenugreek."]},{"type":"p","content":["Najat is a remarkable woman. Raised in a simple house near San Sebastian, northern Spain, she went to university in London, and worked with chef Ferran Adrià at El Bulli, where she met Anthony Bourdain, who put her on CNN. She’s also filmed a food documentary for National Geographic with Gordon Ramsay in the Taza mountains north of Fez, where her family are from. Returning to her roots, she opened her first Moroccan restaurant, Nur, in 2017. Two years later the Fez establishment had earned a spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list."," "]},{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Image","props":{"link":{},"caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by PALAIS AMANI HOTEL","source":"","text":"Fez Cooking School is set on the rooftop of an 18th-century merchant’s house-turned-hotel called Palais Amani, built by a family who grew wealthy trading goods such as wool, and leather from Fez’s tanneries.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false},"image":{"id":"Chef Fez","showCopyright":"Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"A chef in Fez preparing Squid ceviche","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=374&h=249","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=748&h=498"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=413&h=275","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=826&h=550"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=718&h=479","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0dc87a0e-db19-4aa8-bf58-04e73227c3bc/fez8.jpg?w=1436&h=958"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"disableFullscreen":false},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full","alignXxs":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":["Inspired by Nur’s exclusively Moroccan wine list, I head to the rooftop bar at hotel Riad Fes, one of the medina’s highest vantage points. Up here, across a patchwork of flat-roofed dwellings, I can single out two of Morocco’s holiest sites: the pea-green pyramid roof of Moulay Idriss’s mausoleum, and the tall minaret tower of Kairaouine mosque and university, established in 859 and considered the world’s oldest university."]},{"type":"p","content":["While alcohol is forbidden in Islam, Morocco’s winemaking heartland has nevertheless thrived around the country’s most sacred city, originating in vineyards established during the French protectorate era (1912-1956). Restaurants and hotels like Riad Fes are champions of local wineries such as Chateau Roslane, whose complex signature Cabernet Merlot is the standout of the five I try, including a Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay blend grown close to the UNESCO-listed Roman ruins of Volubilis nearby, a ‘gris’ dry rosé blush from Meknes and a peppery Syrah made near Casablanca."]}],{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Ad","props":{"ad":{"kvps":{"pos":"fitt-article-inline-outstream-2"},"type":"fitt-article-inline-outstream","className":"fitt-article-inline-outstream"},"className":"natgeo-ad","placeholders":{"compact":{"size":[320,50]},"regular":{"size":[320,50]}},"initSelf":true},"context":{},"config":{"gridDisplayMode":"none"}}},[{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Image","props":{"link":{},"caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by PALAIS AMANI HOTEL","source":"","text":"The roof terrace at Palais Amani riad hotel allows for stunning views of the Fez medina.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false},"image":{"id":"Roof Terrace Fez","showCopyright":"Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"The roof terrace at Palais Amani Riad hotel on a sunny day, with views of the Fez Medina below","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=374&h=249","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=748&h=498"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=413&h=275","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=826&h=550"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=718&h=479","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/5512a58b-71d2-43bd-90d5-c8ef7ad7a6f6/fez7.jpg?w=1436&h=958"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"disableFullscreen":false},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full","alignXxs":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":["Ready for dinner, I head back to the medina where queues are starting to form at snack vendors along the ancient main street of Talaa Kebira. The throaty call of a drum guides me to an alleyway so dark I’m half convinced I’m lost. But this is the entrance to Cafe Clock. When Brit Mike Richardson opened this cultural hub in 2007, after a London career in hospitality that included time at The Wolseley, he wanted to create a bridge between travellers and the local community. Today, 40% of the cafe’s footfall is Moroccan — which is no mean feat for a foreign-owned business in Fez. Mike has since opened Clocks in Marrakech and Chefchaouen, but the original — which plays host to a cinema, art exhibitions and regular music performances — is still an institution."]},{"type":"p","content":["I nab the last seat as a group of musicians in white djellabas (robes) warm up instruments for an aissawa performance showcasing a celebratory form of call and response music from the nearby Middle Atlas mountains. People are drinking tea and milkshakes amid chatter in Darija, Morocco’s Arabic dialect, and I order Cafe Clock’s signature dish: the camel burger."," "]},{"type":"p","content":["Lean, nutritious and with its origins steeped in traditions of nomadic Arabic desert culture, camel meat is still sold along Talaa Kebira today — but it’s typically only eaten by Moroccans at celebrations. As I wait for food, the cafe feels like it’s gearing up for a fittingly raucous shindig. The burger arrives, patties piled high with gherkins and homemade tomato and cinnamon ketchup, just as the drumming picks up pace. It’s an unusual taste: gamey, but light. Around me, hands start to twirl, heads bob, people clear their throats to sing. And so, the beat goes on, as it has in Fez for a millennium — just with a few new rhythms."," "]},{"type":"h2","content":["Where to eat in Fez, Morocco"]},{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Image","props":{"link":{},"caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by JAVIER PEÑAS","source":"","text":"Squid ceviche is just one of the speciality dishes prepared at fusion restaurant, Nur.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false},"image":{"id":"Squid Ceviche Fez","showCopyright":"Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"Moroccan squid ceviche, sprinkled with petals.","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=374&h=561","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=748&h=1122"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=413&h=620","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=826&h=1240"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=718&h=1077","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=1436&h=2154"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"disableFullscreen":false},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full","alignXxs":"full"}}},{"type":"p","content":[{"type":"b","content":["1."," "]},{"type":"a","content":[{"type":"b","content":["Nur"]}],"attrs":{"href":"https://nurfez.com/","rel":"noopener noreferrer","target":"_blank"}},{"type":"br","content":[]},"The food at this fusion medina restaurant is as cutting-edge as its off-the-wall monochrome decor. The menu by Spanish-Moroccan chef Najat Kaanache offers an eclectic mix of dishes, from calamari with lemongrass broth to duck with artichoke, truffle and Moroccan spices. Tasting menus from US$80 (£63) per person, excluding wine."]},{"type":"p","content":[{"type":"b","content":["2. Abdullah's tea stall"]},{"type":"br","content":[]},"Affable Abdullah Touati has run a tea counter in Fez medina since 1969, just off the metal-workers’ Place Seffarine. He uses a blend of herbs — peppermint, spearmint, sage, marjoram, absinthe and lemon verbena — grown behind his house on the edge of the city. It’s served to locals and travellers at low plastic stools piled with cushions. 10 MAD (80p) a glass."," "]}],{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Ad","props":{"ad":{"kvps":{"pos":"fitt-article-inline-outstream-3"},"type":"fitt-article-inline-outstream","className":"fitt-article-inline-outstream"},"className":"natgeo-ad","placeholders":{"compact":{"size":[320,50]},"regular":{"size":[320,50]}},"initSelf":true},"context":{},"config":{"gridDisplayMode":"none"}}},[{"type":"p","content":[{"type":"b","content":["3."," "]},{"type":"a","content":[{"type":"b","content":["Foundouk Bazaar"]}],"attrs":{"href":"https://www.facebook.com/fondoukbazaarfes","rel":"noopener noreferrer","target":"_blank"}},{"type":"br","content":[]},"Paper lanterns lead up to inviting roof terraces at this contemporary Moroccan cafe-restaurant above the ancient medina thoroughfare of Talaa Kebira. Popular with young Fassis, the menu runs from dishes such as shakshuka to tagliatelle with feta and olives. The orange-blossom and cinnamon lassi tastes like Morocco in a glass. 175 MAD (£14) for three courses."]},{"type":"p","content":[{"type":"b","content":["4. Bissara soup stands"]},{"type":"br","content":[]},"In the Al Aachabin food section of Fez el Bali medina, split-pea soup is made the traditional way, the peas slow-cooked and smashed with a long wooden pole akin to a baseball bat. Popular at breakfast, it’s served with olive oil and ground cumin. 15 MAD (£1.15) per bowl."," "]},{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"Listicle","props":{"title":null,"body":"<b>How to do it: <br></b>Ryanair is the only airline that flies direct to Fez from the UK, with twice-weekly departures from Stansted. Stays at the 21-room Palais Amani riad hotel, home to Fez Cooking School, start from €196 (£167) per night, B&B; market tours with cooking classes cost €165 (£141) per person.<a href=\"https://www.ryanair.com/gb/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> ryanair.com</a> <a href=\"https://www.palaisamani.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">palaisamani.com</a><br><br><i>This story was created with the support of Palais Amani.</i>","description":null,"richTextElement":"div"},"context":{},"config":{"align":"full"}}},{"type":"inline","content":{"name":"EditorsNote","props":{"body":"Published in the May 2024 issue of <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).<br><br>To subscribe to <i>National Geographic Traveller</i> (UK) magazine click <a href=\"https://subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here</a>. 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Stays at the 21-room Palais Amani riad hotel, home to Fez Cooking School, start from €196 (£167) per night, B&B; market tours with cooking classes cost €165 (£141) per person.<a href=\"https://www.ryanair.com/gb/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> ryanair.com</a> <a href=\"https://www.palaisamani.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">palaisamani.com</a><br><br><i>This story was created with the support of Palais Amani.</i>","description":null,"inlineId":"8aa66b4d-32ce-4795-8f46-3cd220e5602f","richTextElement":"div"}},{"type":"editorsNote","data":{"articleConfig":{"align":"full"},"body":"Published in the May 2024 issue of <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).<br><br>To subscribe to <i>National Geographic Traveller</i> (UK) magazine click <a href=\"https://subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here</a>. (Available in select countries only).","header":null,"inlineId":"fdf89677-dd00-4a0b-920b-871ce27ffa0f"}}],"Blockquote":{"disableQuotationMark":true,"simple":true},"datelineSeparator":"—","stripBr":false,"className":"PrismArticleBody DoubleColumn StartsWithInline","hideReadTime":true},"dataConstructorMap":{},"topComponents":[{"name":"PrismArticleLead","data":{"alignCaptionToBody":true,"className":"SplitLead","colorMode":"dark","ctaSize":"m","description":"The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.","disableForMobile":false,"enableBackgroundColor":true,"focalPointX":"center","focalPointY":"center","hasByline":true,"image":{"caption":{"credit":"Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES","source":"","text":"Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and 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Unauthorized use is prohibited.","alt":"Moroccan squid ceviche, sprinkled with petals.","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=374&h=561","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=748&h=1122"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=413&h=620","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=826&h=1240"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=718&h=1077","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/58577d84-0433-4935-a2d1-4b1a8db95921/fez5.jpg?w=1436&h=2154"},"min":414,"nativeWidth":718}]},"inlineId":"c55db5cd-0788-413e-a787-d8f199f732a1","caption":{"title":"","credit":"Photograph by JAVIER PEÑAS","source":"","text":"Squid ceviche is just one of the speciality dishes prepared at fusion restaurant, Nur.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More","showLess":false}}},{"type":"listicle","data":{"articleConfig":{"align":"full"},"title":null,"body":"<b>How to do it: <br></b>Ryanair is the only airline that flies direct to Fez from the UK, with twice-weekly departures from Stansted. Stays at the 21-room Palais Amani riad hotel, home to Fez Cooking School, start from €196 (£167) per night, B&B; market tours with cooking classes cost €165 (£141) per person.<a href=\"https://www.ryanair.com/gb/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> ryanair.com</a> <a href=\"https://www.palaisamani.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">palaisamani.com</a><br><br><i>This story was created with the support of Palais Amani.</i>","description":null,"inlineId":"8aa66b4d-32ce-4795-8f46-3cd220e5602f","richTextElement":"div"}},{"type":"editorsNote","data":{"articleConfig":{"align":"full"},"body":"Published in the May 2024 issue of <i>National Geographic Traveller </i>(UK).<br><br>To subscribe to <i>National Geographic Traveller</i> (UK) magazine click <a href=\"https://subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here</a>. (Available in select countries only).","header":null,"inlineId":"fdf89677-dd00-4a0b-920b-871ce27ffa0f"}}],"Blockquote":{"disableQuotationMark":true,"simple":true},"datelineSeparator":"—","stripBr":false,"className":"PrismArticleBody DoubleColumn StartsWithInline","hideReadTime":true},"dataConstructorMap":{},"topComponents":[{"name":"PrismArticleLead","data":{"alignCaptionToBody":true,"className":"SplitLead","colorMode":"dark","ctaSize":"m","description":"The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.","disableForMobile":false,"enableBackgroundColor":true,"focalPointX":"center","focalPointY":"center","hasByline":true,"image":{"caption":{"credit":"Photograph by ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES","source":"","text":"Founded by Moulay Idriss — a descendant of the prophet Muhammad — Fez is considered Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heartland.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More"},"image":{"alt":"A selection of Moroccan souks to contain tajine, painted with a variation of colours and designs.","src":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg","sources":[{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=374&h=249","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=748&h=498"},"max":374,"nativeWidth":374},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=413&h=275","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=826&h=550"},"max":413,"min":375,"nativeWidth":413},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=767&h=511","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1534&h=1022"},"max":767,"min":414,"nativeWidth":767},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1024&h=683","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2048&h=1366"},"max":1024,"min":768,"nativeWidth":1024},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1260&h=840","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2520&h=1680"},"max":1440,"min":1025,"nativeWidth":1260},{"src":{"x1":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=1440&h=960","x2":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/a5d0beab-96e8-48f4-80c5-6c594042390d/fez2.jpg?w=2880&h=1920"},"min":1441,"nativeWidth":1440}],"fetchPriority":"high","loading":"eager"},"ratio":"2048x1365","type":"xHigh","priority":"xHigh","colorMode":"light"},"leadX":"right","leadY":"center","logo":{},"mediaType":"image","showDownArrow":false,"ratio":"2048x1365","tags":[{"label":"TRAVEL","href":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel"}],"tint":0,"title":"Where to eat in Fez, birthplace of Morocco's finest food traditions","type":"right","video":null,"contributors":[{"name":"Lorna Parkes","role":"writer","labelOverride":"By"}],"shareData":{"networks":["facebook","twitter","email","link"],"title":"Where to eat in Fez, Morocco","description":"The history of this imperial city is intertwined with many of Morocco’s greatest food traditions — a tour of its vast medieval medina can lead to centuries-old recipes, but also local wines and experimental kitchens.","url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/where-to-eat-fez-morocco","pageType":"article","source":"NatGeo","shareButton":"inline","size":"l"},"publishedDate":"2024-05-02T12:00:00.000Z","badge":null,"isUserAuthed":false}}]},"contentPackage":"non-gated","dt":"2024-05-02T12:00:00.000Z","story_id":"drn:src:natgeo:unison::prod:df4596e0-67a7-4046-a283-2af340c81e9a"}},"request":{"headers":{},"httpVersion":"1.1","method":"GET","url":"/travel/article/where-to-eat-fez-morocco?userab=ng_pw_copy-287%2Avariant_a-1126","vary":{"cached":true,"device":"pc","host":"www.nationalgeographic.com","path":"/travel/article/where-to-eat-fez-morocco","forwarded-proto":"https","country":"hk","edition":"natgeo-en-us","edition-view":"natgeo-en-us","loggedin":"false","userab":"ng_pw_copy-287*variant_a-1126"}},"viewport":{"width":1260,"height":0},"user":{}};</script><script src="//assets-cdn.nationalgeographic.com/natgeo/f76c83dbe629-release-11-19-2024.2/client/natgeo/_manifest.js" defer></script><script src="//assets-cdn.nationalgeographic.com/natgeo/f76c83dbe629-release-11-19-2024.2/client/natgeo/natgeo-b6cb5abe.js" defer></script><script src="//assets-cdn.nationalgeographic.com/natgeo/f76c83dbe629-release-11-19-2024.2/client/natgeo/prismarticle-24106b20.js" defer></script> </body> </html>