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-0.2));}}/*!sc*/ #hard-reg-wall-piano-id{clear:both;margin:0 -20px;position:relative;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{left:calc((100% * 0.08333333333333333) - (24px * 0.9166666666666666) + 24px);margin:0;position:relative;width:calc((100% * 0.8333333333333334) - (24px * 0.16666666666666666));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{margin:0;width:calc((100% * 0.5833333333333334) - (24px * 0.4166666666666667));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.feature_article{left:0;margin:0;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.video{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.08333333333333333) - (24px * 1.0833333333333333) + 24px);margin-top:32px;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.video::before{margin-left:0;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ #soft-reg-wall-piano-id{bottom:32px;box-shadow:0 1px 18px 0 rgb(0 0 0 / 12%),0 6px 10px 0 rgb(0 0 0 / 14%),0 3px 5px -1px rgb(0 0 0 / 20%);margin:0 auto;max-width:608px;opacity:0;-webkit-transition:bottom .8s ease-out .5s,opacity .8s ease .5s;transition:bottom .8s ease-out .5s,opacity .8s ease .5s;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:50%;right:initial;-webkit-transform:translateX(-50%);-ms-transform:translateX(-50%);transform:translateX(-50%);width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:calc(calc((100% * 0.4166666666666667) - (24px * 0.5833333333333334) + 24px) - 10px);}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (max-width:749px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:3%;margin:0 auto;max-width:480px;right:3%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.feature_article{left:50%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.video{left:50%;-webkit-transform:translateX(-50%);-ms-transform:translateX(-50%);transform:translateX(-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #soft-reg-wall-piano-id.soft-reg-wall-piano-active{border-radius:8px;bottom:16px;opacity:1;position:fixed;z-index:60;}/*!sc*/ .tp-backdrop.tp-active{background:rgb(0 0 0 / 60%);}/*!sc*/ .tp-modal{-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(6px);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){.tp-iframe-wrapper.tp-active{left:50%;position:absolute;top:calc(50% - 50px);-webkit-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);-ms-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #homepage-header-subscribe-button-piano-id{width:100%;}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;opacity:0;position:fixed;right:0;-webkit-transform:translateY(100%);-ms-transform:translateY(100%);transform:translateY(100%);-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,-webkit-transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;width:100%;z-index:100;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-toaster-piano-id{margin:0;}}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id.meter-toaster-piano-active{opacity:1;-webkit-transform:translateY(0);-ms-transform:translateY(0);transform:translateY(0);}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id,#paywall-prompt-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;position:fixed;right:0;width:100%;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id > .tp-container-inner{position:relative;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 60% );content:'';height:100%;left:0;overflow:hidden;position:fixed;text-align:center;top:0;width:100%;z-index:40;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 65% );}}/*!sc*/ #meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:24px -20px 0;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:32px 0 0;}}/*!sc*/ data-styled.g425[id="sc-global-blBCRs5"]{content:"sc-global-blBCRs5,"}/*!sc*/ #hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 0%),#fff);content:'';display:block;height:160px;left:0;position:absolute;top:-160px;width:100%;z-index:25;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.14285714285714285) - (24px * 1.1428571428571428) + 24px);width:calc((100% * 1.1428571428571428) - (24px * -0.14285714285714285));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px) and (max-width:999px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.1) - (24px * 1.1) + 24px);width:calc((100% * 1.2) - (24px * -0.2));}}/*!sc*/ #hard-reg-wall-piano-id{clear:both;margin:0 -20px;position:relative;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{left:calc((100% * 0.08333333333333333) - (24px * 0.9166666666666666) + 24px);margin:0;position:relative;width:calc((100% * 0.8333333333333334) - (24px * 0.16666666666666666));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{margin:0;width:calc((100% * 0.5833333333333334) - (24px * 0.4166666666666667));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.feature_article{left:0;margin:0;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.video{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.08333333333333333) - (24px * 1.0833333333333333) + 24px);margin-top:32px;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.video::before{margin-left:0;width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ #soft-reg-wall-piano-id{bottom:32px;box-shadow:0 1px 18px 0 rgb(0 0 0 / 12%),0 6px 10px 0 rgb(0 0 0 / 14%),0 3px 5px -1px rgb(0 0 0 / 20%);margin:0 auto;max-width:608px;opacity:0;-webkit-transition:bottom .8s ease-out .5s,opacity .8s ease .5s;transition:bottom .8s ease-out .5s,opacity .8s ease .5s;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:50%;right:initial;-webkit-transform:translateX(-50%);-ms-transform:translateX(-50%);transform:translateX(-50%);width:100%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:calc(calc((100% * 0.4166666666666667) - (24px * 0.5833333333333334) + 24px) - 10px);}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (max-width:749px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:3%;margin:0 auto;max-width:480px;right:3%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.feature_article{left:50%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.video{left:50%;-webkit-transform:translateX(-50%);-ms-transform:translateX(-50%);transform:translateX(-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #soft-reg-wall-piano-id.soft-reg-wall-piano-active{border-radius:8px;bottom:16px;opacity:1;position:fixed;z-index:60;}/*!sc*/ .tp-backdrop.tp-active{background:rgb(0 0 0 / 60%);}/*!sc*/ .tp-modal{-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(6px);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){.tp-iframe-wrapper.tp-active{left:50%;position:absolute;top:calc(50% - 50px);-webkit-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);-ms-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #homepage-header-subscribe-button-piano-id{width:100%;}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;opacity:0;position:fixed;right:0;-webkit-transform:translateY(100%);-ms-transform:translateY(100%);transform:translateY(100%);-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,-webkit-transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;width:100%;z-index:100;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-toaster-piano-id{margin:0;}}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id.meter-toaster-piano-active{opacity:1;-webkit-transform:translateY(0);-ms-transform:translateY(0);transform:translateY(0);}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id,#paywall-prompt-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;position:fixed;right:0;width:100%;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id > .tp-container-inner{position:relative;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 60% );content:'';height:100%;left:0;overflow:hidden;position:fixed;text-align:center;top:0;width:100%;z-index:40;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 65% );}}/*!sc*/ #meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:24px -20px 0;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:32px 0 0;}}/*!sc*/ data-styled.g426[id="sc-global-blBCRs6"]{content:"sc-global-blBCRs6,"}/*!sc*/ #hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 0%),#fff);content:'';display:block;height:160px;left:0;position:absolute;top:-160px;width:100%;z-index:25;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.14285714285714285) - (24px * 1.1428571428571428) + 24px);width:calc((100% * 1.1428571428571428) - (24px * -0.14285714285714285));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px) and (max-width:999px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id.hard-reg-wall-piano-active::before{margin-left:calc((100% * -0.1) - (24px * 1.1) + 24px);width:calc((100% * 1.2) - (24px * -0.2));}}/*!sc*/ #hard-reg-wall-piano-id{clear:both;margin:0 -20px;position:relative;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{left:calc((100% * 0.08333333333333333) - (24px * 0.9166666666666666) + 24px);margin:0;position:relative;width:calc((100% * 0.8333333333333334) - (24px * 0.16666666666666666));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#hard-reg-wall-piano-id{margin:0;width:calc((100% * 0.5833333333333334) - (24px * 0.4166666666666667));}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and 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* 0.4166666666666667) - (24px * 0.5833333333333334) + 24px) - 10px);}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (max-width:749px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id{left:3%;margin:0 auto;max-width:480px;right:3%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.feature_article{left:50%;}}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:1000px){#soft-reg-wall-piano-id.video{left:50%;-webkit-transform:translateX(-50%);-ms-transform:translateX(-50%);transform:translateX(-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #soft-reg-wall-piano-id.soft-reg-wall-piano-active{border-radius:8px;bottom:16px;opacity:1;position:fixed;z-index:60;}/*!sc*/ .tp-backdrop.tp-active{background:rgb(0 0 0 / 60%);}/*!sc*/ .tp-modal{-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(6px);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){.tp-iframe-wrapper.tp-active{left:50%;position:absolute;top:calc(50% - 50px);-webkit-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);-ms-transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);transform:translate(calc(-50% - 0.5px),-50%);}}/*!sc*/ #homepage-header-subscribe-button-piano-id{width:100%;}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;opacity:0;position:fixed;right:0;-webkit-transform:translateY(100%);-ms-transform:translateY(100%);transform:translateY(100%);-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,-webkit-transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;-webkit-transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;transition:opacity .3s linear .5s,transform .3s ease-in-out .5s;width:100%;z-index:100;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-toaster-piano-id{margin:0;}}/*!sc*/ #meter-toaster-piano-id.meter-toaster-piano-active{opacity:1;-webkit-transform:translateY(0);-ms-transform:translateY(0);transform:translateY(0);}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id,#paywall-prompt-piano-id{bottom:0;left:0;position:fixed;right:0;width:100%;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id > .tp-container-inner{position:relative;z-index:45;}/*!sc*/ #app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 60% );content:'';height:100%;left:0;overflow:hidden;position:fixed;text-align:center;top:0;width:100%;z-index:40;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#app-prompt-piano-id.app-prompt-piano-active::before,#paywall-prompt-wrapper-piano-id.paywall-prompt-piano-active::before{background:linear-gradient( to bottom,rgb(255 255 255 / 50%) 0%,rgb(255 255 255 / 100%) 65% );}}/*!sc*/ #meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:24px -20px 0;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){#meter-prompt-piano-id.meter-prompt-piano-active{margin:32px 0 0;}}/*!sc*/ data-styled.g427[id="sc-global-blBCRs7"]{content:"sc-global-blBCRs7,"}/*!sc*/ .iHphBG{border:1px solid #d7dbe3;padding:8px;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){.iHphBG{padding:16px;}}/*!sc*/ .iHphBG .sc-6f4f1d46-2{margin-top:0;}/*!sc*/ .iHphBG .sc-7bc57f94-0{padding-left:0;}/*!sc*/ .iHphBG .sc-7bc57f94-1{font-family:'PT Sans','Trebuchet MS','Arial Narrow',sans-serif;font-size:13px;line-height:16px;}/*!sc*/ .sc-19c0b090-0 + .sc-19c0b090-0{margin-top:0;position:relative;top:-1px;}/*!sc*/ data-styled.g462[id="sc-19c0b090-0"]{content:"iHphBG,"}/*!sc*/ .dQjdhD{border:1px solid #d7dbe3;padding:24px 16px;}/*!sc*/ @media only screen and (min-width:750px){.dQjdhD{padding:32px 24px;}}/*!sc*/ .dQjdhD a{color:#232323;text-underline-offset:0.2em;}/*!sc*/ .dQjdhD a:focus,.dQjdhD a:hover{-webkit-text-decoration-color:#cf9b00;text-decoration-color:#cf9b00;-webkit-text-decoration-thickness:3px;text-decoration-thickness:3px;}/*!sc*/ data-styled.g551[id="sc-915c5cc1-0"]{content:"dQjdhD,"}/*!sc*/ .fuHVBU{font-family:'Abril Titling','Book Antiqua',Palatino,'Palatino Linotype','Palatino LT STD',Georgia,serif;font-size:24px;font-weight:bold;line-height:28px;margin-bottom:16px;}/*!sc*/ 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And we don’t care</h1><p data-testid="article-intro" class="sc-e0e5568e-2 bTktTL">The chef wants his restaurant, Attica, dropped from the annual restaurant guide. This is why it won’t be, says Melbourne’s chief restaurant reviewer.</p><div class="sc-1da33121-0 djsVGM"><div data-testid="article-author" class="sc-1da33121-1 kqGknt"><div><a href="/goodfood/by/besha-rodell-h29n0x" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-1da33121-2 iczfBg gVjlrJ">Besha Rodell</a><p data-testid="article-datetime" class="sc-1da33121-4 iyjeEU"><time data-testid="storytile-timestamp" dateTime="2024-11-21T12:02:38+08:00">November 21, 2024</time></p></div></div><div class="sc-1da33121-5 dDFKwf noPrint" data-testid="article-actions"><div class="sc-1da33121-6 dqNmHJ"><div class="sc-cc955f69-0 bSBcHU"><button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article to read later" role="switch" type="button" class="sc-cc955f69-1 llblJV"><svg fill="none" height="24" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="sc-37ae8458-0 bShwMW"><path d="M5.75 4C5.75 3.86193 5.86193 3.75 6 3.75H18C18.1381 3.75 18.25 3.86193 18.25 4L18.25 19.7709L12.8004 16.9682C12.2981 16.7099 11.7019 16.7099 11.1996 16.9682L5.75 19.7709L5.75 4Z"></path></svg><span class="sc-cc955f69-2 huPHkX">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 hEjQGj" role="tooltip"><button type="button" class="sc-37ae8458-1 aHKjJ">Log in</button>, <a href="https://watoday.myfairfax.com.au/channel/cWvEleexy48f-PI5-jlBnw/members/signups/new?callback_uri=%2Fgoodfood%2Fmelbourne-eating-out%2Fchef-ben-shewry-claims-the-good-food-guide-operates-without-ethical-guidelines-and-expertise-i-strongly-disagree-20241120-p5ks7b.html" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-5 iczfBg bAxagq">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.watoday.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-5 iczfBg bAxagq">subscribe</a> to save recipes for later.</div><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 hEjQGj sc-37ae8458-3 jRZUoh" role="tooltip"><p class="sc-37ae8458-4 hRXiyX">You have reached your maximum number of saved items.</p><p>Remove items from your <a href="/goodfood/saved" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-2 iczfBg OqYYh">saved list</a> to add more.</p></div><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 enjNLI sc-604ab955-0 kFsJZj" role="tooltip"><p class="sc-604ab955-1 bkcRSz">Save this article for later</p><p class="sc-604ab955-2 euASXg">Add articles to your saved list and come back to them anytime.</p><button type="button" class="sc-5253e565-0 sc-5253e565-6 sc-604ab955-3 clhnVQ dXpZhL gOefEG">Got it</button></div></div><div class="sc-1da33121-7 dhWbGd"></div><div class="sc-cc955f69-0 bSBcHU"><button aria-controls="shareMenu" aria-expanded="false" aria-label="Share this content" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-attribute="article top" data-ffx-event-category="share content" data-ffx-event-label="share article" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event" role="listbox" type="button" class="sc-cc955f69-1 llblJV"><svg height="24" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path d="M14 16.1961L20 11L14 5.80383V8.99999C7 8.99999 4 15 4 19C6 15 10 13 14 13V16.1961Z" fill="#0A1633"></path></svg><span class="sc-cc955f69-2 huPHkX">Share</span></button></div></div></div></div><div class="noPrint article" id="meter-prompt-piano-id"></div></header><div class="sc-ba3b934f-0 jwfccj"><div data-testid="beyondwords-accordion-content" class="sc-ba3b934f-2 cezePF"><div data-testid="beyondwords-player-container" class="sc-ba3b934f-6 kkWxpr"><div id="beyondwords-player"></div></div></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>In recent weeks, questions have been raised about the ethics of food media in Australia, in particular in <em>The Sydney Morning Herald</em> and <em>The Age Good Food Guides</em>, for which I write, and this masthead publishes. Most of this is due to the publication of Melbourne chef <a class="inline-link" href="/national/victoria/nothing-to-do-with-losing-a-hat-top-chef-from-downgraded-restaurant-attacks-reviewers-20240926-p5kdrv.html">Ben Shewry’s memoir</a> <em>Uses for Obsession</em>, his publicity interviews and public appearances and an Instagram post. </p><p>Shewry asserts that restaurant criticism is unethical and contributes to intense pressure on the restaurant industry, and that it’s a broken system conducted by inexperienced reviewers.</p><p>It is, without doubt, self-serving for me to stand up in defence of restaurant criticism. But in the face of the current conversation and backlash against my profession, it feels cowardly to stay silent. </p><p>Criticism is my life’s work, the thing I’ve spent decades pondering, the medium through which I examine the places I live and the culture by which those places are defined. It’s not a perfect art – it may not be an art at all – but it’s also not something I take lightly.</p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f 2x"/><img alt="Chef-restaurateur Ben Shewry at his Ripponlea restaurant Attica." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.189%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec527631f1f3ee97de196bf717911a944a50a14f 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Chef-restaurateur Ben Shewry at his Ripponlea restaurant Attica.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Supplied</span></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>First, let me acknowledge that there is plenty to criticise when it comes to media – more widely, as well as in the realm of restaurant coverage. No industry or publication is perfect. No scoring system is unimpeachable. Shewry has tapped into a well of sentiment from an industry that feels maligned by forces over which it has no control. </p><p>I have no desire to go to war with Ben. I have long admired his Ripponlea restaurant, both privately and <a class="inline-link" href=https://www.eater.com/2019/10/23/20918617/attica-melbourne-review-ben-shewry-tasting-menu rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">also extremely publicly</a>. Others have <a class="inline-link" href=https://andrewlynes.substack.com/p/smashed-38-have-food-critics-lost?utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email&fbclid=IwY2xjawGp2ipleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHV3xBf1zE7C22Ap1f9VhO0Nn1gf79sD3yx8ouhjzgl_ePuOo6HREu0sutQ_aem_5iMEzrkMDtsoLqIrp8y2Hw&triedRedirect=true rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">made the point</a> that he only became disenchanted with the system of reviews and hats when, in 2022, his restaurant dropped from the pinnacle of three chefs’ hats in the <em>Good Food Guide</em> to two, but I’m not sure how relevant that is. </p><p>Many of us are happy with systems that work for us until they cease that utility, and any healthy system should be able to withstand criticism, including criticism itself. I welcome the conversation about how media should cover the restaurant industry responsibly – if I didn’t, I’d be a hypocrite of the highest order. </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f 2x"/><img alt="Guests at this year’s Good Food Guide ceremony mingle in the Plaza Ballroom’s baroque surrounds." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.36923076923076925%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/57dc19dd122bc46ae2842f590201b25a4197222f 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Guests at this year’s Good Food Guide ceremony mingle in the Plaza Ballroom’s baroque surrounds.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Ashley Ludkin</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>But it became clear that some kind of response was necessary when, last weekend, Shewry posted an Instagram screed that did what it set out to do: turn much of the attention on this year’s <a class="inline-link" href="/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-age-good-food-guide-2025-20241119-p5krsg.html"><em>Good Food Guide </em>awards</a> the following day (Monday, November 18) away from its winners and onto himself, and yes, the book he’s trying to sell. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>In the post, he admitted his bizarre assumption that Attica would be excluded from the <em>Guide</em> because of opinions he expressed in his book. Instead, he had “awkwardly” been invited to the awards, meaning Attica had been included in this year’s <em>Guide</em>. The timing of his post was interesting – the invitations to the awards night went out on October 10, meaning Shewry had known about the restaurant’s inclusion for at least five weeks.</p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20 2x"/><img alt="Ben Shewry at the Good Food Guide 2014 Awards, when he was named chef of the year." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2529%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_109%2C$y_143/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Ben Shewry at the Good Food Guide 2014 Awards, when he was named chef of the year.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Eddie Jim</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>By timing his post to coincide with the awards, Shewry put a very real cloud over this year’s winners, stealing their moment of achievement to promote his own agenda. He spent many years attending these awards, posing for photos, being interviewed by this masthead and giving heartfelt speeches. Where was his indignation then? And why does he feel so confident in stealing that moment of joy from an industry that direly needs positivity right now?</p><p>As someone who sits on the senior panel for <em>The Age</em> <em>Good Food Guide</em>, I can tell you that Attica’s inclusion was never in question. Why would he assume it was? Its inclusion proves venues are not admitted or shunned for political or personal reasons. We know he doesn’t like us; we don’t care. His restaurant is very good and diners deserve to read about it. After all, we do what we do for readers, not for chefs. </p><p>We don’t ask restaurateurs or chefs for permission to include their venue in the <em>Guide </em>in much the way film critics do not ask permission to review a movie. It’s produced independently for the dining public outside of pressures, positive or negative.</p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>Shewry claims we have no ethics. But the <em>Guide</em> editors hand every reviewer a literal ethical guidebook before they begin reviewing. (You can read about it <a class="inline-link" href="/goodfood/eating-out/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-good-food-guide-20240930-p5keo4.html">here</a>.) Has he asked whether we have a moral framework before loudly proclaiming that we don’t? He has not. </p><aside data-testid="related-story" class="sc-19c0b090-0 iHphBG"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 dJzkXj" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 jpvxIf"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-age-good-food-guide-2025-20241119-p5krsg.html" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.41662876254180603%2C$multiply_0.2222%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_77%2C$y_64/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/160b4ac371e7df7c786b97af9924912f62a70203, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.41662876254180603%2C$multiply_0.4444%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_77%2C$y_64/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/160b4ac371e7df7c786b97af9924912f62a70203 2x"/><img alt="The Age Good Food Guide Awards 2025, held in the Plaza Ballroom, Melbourne." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2769%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_85%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/160b4ac371e7df7c786b97af9924912f62a70203" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2769%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_85%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/160b4ac371e7df7c786b97af9924912f62a70203, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2769%2C$multiply_0.5079%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_85%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/160b4ac371e7df7c786b97af9924912f62a70203 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 eOOgRW"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><ul class="sc-7bc57f94-0 kFNNi"><li class="sc-7bc57f94-1 sc-7bc57f94-2 efkbvd fLuDbc">Collection</li></ul><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 SlwOS"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-age-good-food-guide-2025-20241119-p5krsg.html">From the hats to what’s hot: Everything you need to know about The Age Good Food Guide 2025</a></h3></div></div></aside><p>When a restaurant gains or loses a hat, a group of the <em>Guide</em>’s most experienced reviewers talks it over with passion and thought, and yes, empathy. We have internal disagreements, sometimes vehement ones. We debate, do revisits, tie ourselves in knots to make sure we can stand by our decisions. </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b 2x"/><img alt="Attica restaurant in 2017, a few years after Shewry became owner." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.37809452363090773%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Attica restaurant in 2017, a few years after Shewry became owner.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Kristoffer Paulsen</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>Does food media have too much power? Perhaps, though it’s debatable. I believe we’re far more likely to make a venue than break it. We rarely write wholly negative reviews, and the accolades mean far more to readers – and diners – than the absence of those accolades. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>But I also wonder what the alternative is to the carefully researched, edited and fact-checked review. If guides, reviews and awards were to suddenly disappear, would something better take their place? Or do chefs and owners wish influencers and marketers paid to say wonderful things might satisfactorily replace journalism? Does Shewry want the whole conversation to resemble the fawning echo chamber of his Instagram comments section?</p><p>Critics, first and foremost, represent the concerns of the dining public. The good ones know how to take the realities of a difficult industry into account.</p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d 2x"/><img alt="The Age Good Food Guide 2025. Its restaurant reviews are positive, though scores fluctuate year on year." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>The Age Good Food Guide 2025. Its restaurant reviews are positive, though scores fluctuate year on year.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl"> </span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>The thing I love most about my job is that it allows me to fully immerse myself in the vision and ambitions of people I admire, and ask if there’s anything they might do to realise those ambitions more fully. Shewry asks what other industry is so mercilessly subject to public criticism (to which I’d respond: almost all of the arts), but I’d flip this question on its head: In what other profession would you have someone – paid for by an outside entity – take weeks to consider your goals, your passions, and aim to earnestly point out where those ambitions are succeeding and where you might do better? </p><p>I’m not claiming that every critic works from this perspective, nor that these opinions must be cherished by the subject, but I can say that my sincere goal is to help restaurants be the best version of themselves. Yes, I’m also trying to help consumers decide where to dine. A good review does both. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>If a chef thinks a critic is decent and writes in good faith, that chef ought to take the reviews as intended – a chance to read a clear opinion from someone who has no reason to needlessly flatter – take on what’s helpful, and disregard the rest.</p><aside data-testid="related-story" class="sc-19c0b090-0 iHphBG"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 dJzkXj" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 jpvxIf"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/national/victoria/we-no-longer-consent-ben-shewry-unloads-again-on-shallow-food-critics-20241118-p5krkf.html" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7221%2C$multiply_0.2222%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_320/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9dc47b7c51aee70b94d574824be67e14821b71bc, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.7221%2C$multiply_0.4444%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_320/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9dc47b7c51aee70b94d574824be67e14821b71bc 2x"/><img alt="Attica owner-chef Ben Shewry." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5415%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_86%2C$y_240/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9dc47b7c51aee70b94d574824be67e14821b71bc" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5415%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_86%2C$y_240/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9dc47b7c51aee70b94d574824be67e14821b71bc, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5415%2C$multiply_0.5079%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_86%2C$y_240/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9dc47b7c51aee70b94d574824be67e14821b71bc 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 eOOgRW"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 SlwOS"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/national/victoria/we-no-longer-consent-ben-shewry-unloads-again-on-shallow-food-critics-20241118-p5krkf.html">‘We no longer consent’: Ben Shewry unloads again on ‘shallow’ food critics</a></h3></div></div></aside><p>It’s wholly fair for the hospitality industry to demand better of media. We should listen, try to improve, and be grateful when someone points out something we may not see from within. I strive, always, to be open to that conversation. And believe it or not, the publications I work for do the same. We spend hours talking about how to improve, how to serve our audience and the industry better, what’s fair, what’s unfair, and how we can ethically do the work. I would not align myself with any organisation that refused to do so. </p><p>And you, and Shewry, and your mum’s best friend can disagree with our choices. But to claim that restaurant critics or <em>Guide </em>editors and reviewers do this work without thought or ethical consideration is, quite simply, patently untrue.</p><div data-testid="embed-callout" class="sc-915c5cc1-0 dQjdhD"><h3 class="sc-915c5cc1-1 fuHVBU">The Good Food Guide at a glance</h3><div class="sc-915c5cc1-2 dQpeGq"> <ul><li><em>The Good Food</em> <em>Guide</em> is produced by <em>The Sydney Morning Herald</em> and <em>The Age</em>, owned by Nine Publishing. Its editors and writers are bound by the <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/nine-publishing-charter-of-editorial-independence" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Nine Publishing Charter of Editorial Independence</a>, and every reviewer is expected to abide by an extensive code of ethics.</li><li>Apart from being professional writers, our reviewers are professional eaters, with years – often decades – of accumulated experience behind them.</li><li>Every venue in the <em>Good Food Guide</em> has been reviewed by a member of our team in the past 12 months. All meals are paid for in full by Nine.</li><li>Every venue is scored according to a strict set of criteria and every score is discussed by a panel of senior reviewers. Restaurants are scored out of 20: 10 points for food, five for hospitality, three for setting and experience, and two for value.</li><li>No restaurant can pay to be included in the <em>Good Food Guide</em>. <em>The SMH </em>and <em>Age Good Food Guides</em> should not be confused with the Australian Good Food Guide, a separate organisation that asks restaurants for payment to be featured recommendations.</li></ul> </div></div><aside data-testid="related-story" class="sc-19c0b090-0 iHphBG"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 dJzkXj" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 jpvxIf"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/eating-out/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-good-food-guide-20240930-p5keo4.html" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.07954545454545454%2C$multiply_0.2222%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/64302a77e6cb7f838bf1a1af31e021cbf29f02ce, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.07954545454545454%2C$multiply_0.4444%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/64302a77e6cb7f838bf1a1af31e021cbf29f02ce 2x"/><img alt="The Age Good Food Guide Awards" loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.0597%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_100%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/64302a77e6cb7f838bf1a1af31e021cbf29f02ce" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.0597%2C$multiply_0.254%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_100%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/64302a77e6cb7f838bf1a1af31e021cbf29f02ce, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.0597%2C$multiply_0.5079%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_100%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/64302a77e6cb7f838bf1a1af31e021cbf29f02ce 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 eOOgRW"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 SlwOS"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/eating-out/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-good-food-guide-20240930-p5keo4.html">The ultimate guide to the Good Food Guide</a></h3></div></div></aside></div><div class="noPrint article" id="hard-reg-wall-piano-id"></div><div class="sc-16abc07a-0 cOFRiJ" data-testid="article-footer"><div class="sc-16abc07a-1 dBpVBW noPrint"><div class="sc-16abc07a-2 fUffSX"><div class="sc-cc955f69-0 bSBcHU sc-16abc07a-3 bsmdUR"><button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article to read later" role="switch" type="button" class="sc-cc955f69-1 llblJV"><svg fill="none" height="24" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="sc-37ae8458-0 bShwMW"><path d="M5.75 4C5.75 3.86193 5.86193 3.75 6 3.75H18C18.1381 3.75 18.25 3.86193 18.25 4L18.25 19.7709L12.8004 16.9682C12.2981 16.7099 11.7019 16.7099 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Instead, he had “awkwardly” been invited to the awards, meaning Attica had been included in this year’s \u003Cem\u003EGuide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The timing of his post was interesting – the invitations to the awards night went out on October 10, meaning Shewry had known about the restaurant’s inclusion for at least five weeks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.2529,"width":756,"offsetX":109,"offsetY":143},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":"Eddie Jim","source":"Fairfax Photographic","caption":"Ben Shewry at the Good Food Guide 2014 Awards, when he was named chef of the year.","mediaId":"aaab66fd41b9c838ee3623c64e6b8d4fe5724a20","animated":false,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EBy timing his post to coincide with the awards, Shewry put a very real cloud over this year’s winners, stealing their moment of achievement to promote his own agenda. He spent many years attending these awards, posing for photos, being interviewed by this masthead and giving heartfelt speeches. Where was his indignation then? And why does he feel so confident in stealing that moment of joy from an industry that direly needs positivity right now?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EAs someone who sits on the senior panel for \u003Cem\u003EThe Age\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003EGood Food Guide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, I can tell you that Attica’s inclusion was never in question. Why would he assume it was? Its inclusion proves venues are not admitted or shunned for political or personal reasons. We know he doesn’t like us; we don’t care. His restaurant is very good and diners deserve to read about it. After all, we do what we do for readers, not for chefs. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EWe don’t ask restaurateurs or chefs for permission to include their venue in the \u003Cem\u003EGuide \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein much the way film critics do not ask permission to review a movie. It’s produced independently for the dining public outside of pressures, positive or negative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EShewry claims we have no ethics. But the \u003Cem\u003EGuide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E editors hand every reviewer a literal ethical guidebook before they begin reviewing. (You can read about it \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"bd51907ca9946baecd32d0a1b7ceee0ca25c1e13\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E.) Has he asked whether we have a moral framework before loudly proclaiming that we don’t? He has not. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","placeholders":[{"key":"bd51907ca9946baecd32d0a1b7ceee0ca25c1e13","text":"here","type":"LINK_ASSET","assetId":"p5keo4"}]},{"type":"ASSET","asset":{"id":"p5krsg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen a restaurant gains or loses a hat, a group of the \u003Cem\u003EGuide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’s most experienced reviewers talks it over with passion and thought, and yes, empathy. We have internal disagreements, sometimes vehement ones. We debate, do revisits, tie ourselves in knots to make sure we can stand by our decisions. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.37809452363090773,"width":756,"offsetX":0,"offsetY":0},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":"Kristoffer Paulsen","source":"Not-For-Syndication","caption":"Attica restaurant in 2017, a few years after Shewry became owner.","mediaId":"e25019e82c3936cffca469e4a719e95c7099416b"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EDoes food media have too much power? Perhaps, though it’s debatable. I believe we’re far more likely to make a venue than break it. We rarely write wholly negative reviews, and the accolades mean far more to readers – and diners – than the absence of those accolades. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EBut I also wonder what the alternative is to the carefully researched, edited and fact-checked review. If guides, reviews and awards were to suddenly disappear, would something better take their place? Or do chefs and owners wish influencers and marketers paid to say wonderful things might satisfactorily replace journalism? Does Shewry want the whole conversation to resemble the fawning echo chamber of his Instagram comments section?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003ECritics, first and foremost, represent the concerns of the dining public. The good ones know how to take the realities of a difficult industry into account.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.7,"width":756,"offsetX":0,"offsetY":0},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":" ","source":"Sydney Morning Herald","caption":"The Age Good Food Guide 2025. Its restaurant reviews are positive, though scores fluctuate year on year.","mediaId":"4277df1d759dc071d639bcbfe35d0d776783801d","animated":false,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EThe thing I love most about my job is that it allows me to fully immerse myself in the vision and ambitions of people I admire, and ask if there’s anything they might do to realise those ambitions more fully. Shewry asks what other industry is so mercilessly subject to public criticism (to which I’d respond: almost all of the arts), but I’d flip this question on its head: In what other profession would you have someone – paid for by an outside entity – take weeks to consider your goals, your passions, and aim to earnestly point out where those ambitions are succeeding and where you might do better? \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EI’m not claiming that every critic works from this perspective, nor that these opinions must be cherished by the subject, but I can say that my sincere goal is to help restaurants be the best version of themselves. Yes, I’m also trying to help consumers decide where to dine. A good review does both. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EIf a chef thinks a critic is decent and writes in good faith, that chef ought to take the reviews as intended – a chance to read a clear opinion from someone who has no reason to needlessly flatter – take on what’s helpful, and disregard the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"ASSET","asset":{"id":"p5krkf"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s wholly fair for the hospitality industry to demand better of media. We should listen, try to improve, and be grateful when someone points out something we may not see from within. I strive, always, to be open to that conversation. And believe it or not, the publications I work for do the same. We spend hours talking about how to improve, how to serve our audience and the industry better, what’s fair, what’s unfair, and how we can ethically do the work. I would not align myself with any organisation that refused to do so. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd you, and Shewry, and your mum’s best friend can disagree with our choices. But to claim that restaurant critics or \u003Cem\u003EGuide \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eeditors and reviewers do this work without thought or ethical consideration is, quite simply, patently untrue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"CALLOUT","title":"The Good Food Guide at a glance","markup":"\n\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Good Food\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003EGuide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is produced by \u003Cem\u003EThe Sydney Morning Herald\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003EThe Age\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, owned by Nine Publishing. Its editors and writers are bound by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smh.com.au\u002Fnine-publishing-charter-of-editorial-independence\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"\u003ENine Publishing Charter of Editorial Independence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and every reviewer is expected to abide by an extensive code of ethics.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EApart from being professional writers, our reviewers are professional eaters, with years – often decades – of accumulated experience behind them.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EEvery venue in the \u003Cem\u003EGood Food Guide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E has been reviewed by a member of our team in the past 12 months. All meals are paid for in full by Nine.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EEvery venue is scored according to a strict set of criteria and every score is discussed by a panel of senior reviewers. Restaurants are scored out of 20: 10 points for food, five for hospitality, three for setting and experience, and two for value.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003ENo restaurant can pay to be included in the \u003Cem\u003EGood Food Guide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \u003Cem\u003EThe SMH \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand \u003Cem\u003EAge Good Food Guides\u003C\u002Fem\u003E should not be confused with the Australian Good Food Guide, a separate organisation that asks restaurants for payment to be featured recommendations.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n"},{"type":"ASSET","asset":{"id":"p5keo4"}}]},"byline":[{"__typename":"AssetBylineAuthor","type":"AUTHOR","author":{"__ref":"Author:QXV0aG9yOiJoMjluMHgi"}}],"category":{"__ref":"Category:Q2F0ZWdvcnk6IjUyIg=="},"commenting":null,"dates":{"__typename":"AssetDates","firstPublished":"2024-11-21T04:02:38Z","published":"2024-11-21T04:02:38Z"},"extensions":{},"headlines":{"__typename":"AssetHeadlines","headline":"We know Ben Shewry doesn’t like the Good Food Guide. 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