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overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; -webkit-line-clamp: 3; -webkit-box-orient: vertical; }</style><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><div class="u-floatLeft"><h1 class="PageHeader-title u-m0x u-fs30">Ethical Fashion</h1><div class="u-tcGrayDark">10,167 Followers</div><div class="u-tcGrayDark u-mt2x">Recent papers in <b>Ethical Fashion</b></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="TabbedNavigation"><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><ul class="nav u-m0x u-p0x list-inline u-displayFlex"><li class="active"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Top Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion/MostCited">Most Cited Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion/MostDownloaded">Most Downloaded Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion/MostRecent">Newest Papers</a></li><li><a class="" href="https://www.academia.edu/People/Ethical_Fashion">People</a></li></ul></div><style type="text/css">ul.nav{flex-direction:row}@media(max-width: 567px){ul.nav{flex-direction:column}.TabbedNavigation li{max-width:100%}.TabbedNavigation li.active{background-color:var(--background-grey, #dddde2)}.TabbedNavigation li.active:before,.TabbedNavigation li.active:after{display:none}}</style></div></div></div><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12"><div class="u-displayFlex"><div class="u-flexGrow1"><div class="works"><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_76471072" data-work_id="76471072" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/76471072/Development_of_the_garment_brand_Gaia_Dubos_target_audience_and_best_environmental_and_ethical_practice">Development of the garment brand Gaia Dubos: target audience and best environmental and ethical practice</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This research essay examines the target audience’s profile and preferences for the development of the garment brand Gaia & Dubos, which creates and produces ecological and ethical high-end garments for women in the province of Quebec, and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_76471072" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This research essay examines the target audience’s profile and preferences for the development of the garment brand Gaia & Dubos, which creates and produces ecological and ethical high-end garments for women in the province of Quebec, and explores the best environmental and ethical practice to establish a sustainable fashion enterprise. The research methods for this project combine a literature review, an online survey and four individual interviews with the target audience in an attempt to answer the research questions: (1) Who is the target audience (demographics, values, lifestyle and habits)? (2) What are the target audience’s preferences when it comes to ecological and ethical clothing? (3) What is the best environmental and ethical practice for a clothing brand?</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/76471072" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="9970b130ef604d1ad314cc0b910501d5" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":84169438,"asset_id":76471072,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/84169438/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="13275176" href="https://ryerson.academia.edu/L%C3%A9onieDaignaultLeclerc">Léonie Daignault-Leclerc</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="13275176" type="text/json">{"id":13275176,"first_name":"Léonie","last_name":"Daignault-Leclerc","domain_name":"ryerson","page_name":"LéonieDaignaultLeclerc","display_name":"Léonie Daignault-Leclerc","profile_url":"https://ryerson.academia.edu/L%C3%A9onieDaignaultLeclerc?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/13275176/8184041/13169530/s65_l_onie.daignault-leclerc.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_76471072 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="76471072"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 76471072, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_76471072", }); 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The research methods for this project combine a literature review, an online survey and four individual interviews with the target audience in an attempt to answer the research questions: (1) Who is the target audience (demographics, values, lifestyle and habits)? (2) What are the target audience’s preferences when it comes to ecological and ethical clothing? (3) What is the best environmental and ethical practice for a clothing brand?","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":84169438,"asset_id":76471072,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":13275176,"first_name":"Léonie","last_name":"Daignault-Leclerc","domain_name":"ryerson","page_name":"LéonieDaignaultLeclerc","display_name":"Léonie Daignault-Leclerc","profile_url":"https://ryerson.academia.edu/L%C3%A9onieDaignaultLeclerc?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/13275176/8184041/13169530/s65_l_onie.daignault-leclerc.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":27,"name":"Entrepreneurship","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Entrepreneurship?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1656,"name":"Social Entrepreneurship","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Entrepreneurship?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":4114,"name":"Ecological Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ecological_Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":18845,"name":"Environmental Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Sustainability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":23735,"name":"Branding","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Branding?f_ri=10272"},{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99074,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research?f_ri=10272"},{"id":432326,"name":"Eco-friendly consumers","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eco-friendly_consumers?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_36242377" data-work_id="36242377" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/36242377/Debasish_CONTEMPORISE_DON%C3%A2_%C5%BDT_COMPROMISE_THE_FUTURE_OF_INDIAN_TRADITIONAL_CRAFT">Debasish CONTEMPORISE, DONâ•ŽT COMPROMISE THE FUTURE OF INDIAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">This paper attempts an experiment on the<br />Indian craft sector by addition of a newer intangible value with the involvement of newer<br />minds while keeping the original craftsmanship alive.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/36242377" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3a8977145c0b06db4bae9d459b1422d6" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":56146544,"asset_id":36242377,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/56146544/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="79278396" href="https://nift.academia.edu/DebasishSatapathy">Debasish Satapathy</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="79278396" 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$(".js-view-count-work_36242377").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="36242377"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3389" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indian_studies">Indian studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="3389" type="text/json">{"id":3389,"name":"Indian studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indian_studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="43838" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/India">India</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="43838" type="text/json">{"id":43838,"name":"India","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/India?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=36242377]'), work: {"id":36242377,"title":"Debasish CONTEMPORISE, DONâ•ŽT COMPROMISE THE FUTURE OF INDIAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT","created_at":"2018-03-24T00:42:24.951-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/36242377/Debasish_CONTEMPORISE_DON%C3%A2_%C5%BDT_COMPROMISE_THE_FUTURE_OF_INDIAN_TRADITIONAL_CRAFT?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_36242377","summary":"This paper attempts an experiment on the\nIndian craft sector by addition of a newer intangible value with the involvement of newer\nminds while keeping the original craftsmanship alive.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":56146544,"asset_id":36242377,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":79278396,"first_name":"Debasish","last_name":"Satapathy","domain_name":"nift","page_name":"DebasishSatapathy","display_name":"Debasish Satapathy","profile_url":"https://nift.academia.edu/DebasishSatapathy?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":3389,"name":"Indian studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indian_studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":43838,"name":"India","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/India?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":94916,"name":"Indology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99074,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research?f_ri=10272"},{"id":531454,"name":"Indian Crafts","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indian_Crafts?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_44590897" data-work_id="44590897" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/44590897/Ethical_fashion_is_confusing_even_shoppers_with_good_intentions_get_overwhelmed">Ethical fashion is confusing — even shoppers with good intentions get overwhelmed</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">As Australian consumers step out of their loungewear post-lockdown, many might be looking to buy new clothes for themselves or as gifts. Whether you re buying sweatpants or sequins, online or in-store, ethical fashion shopping can be... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_44590897" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">As Australian consumers step out of their loungewear post-lockdown, many might be looking to buy new clothes for themselves or as gifts. Whether you re buying sweatpants or sequins, online or in-store, ethical fashion shopping can be confusing. There are so many terms, certifications, and accreditation systems-not to mention the marketing spin and corporate greenwashing-to navigate. Our recent research examined the impact modern slavery laws have had on consumer awareness about ethical fashion, as part of a larger project on modern slavery. We surveyed over a hundred participants, conducting additional interviews with 22 of them via Zoom during July and August 2020. They told us that although they felt well informed about the broader issues, they struggled with knowing what was truly ethical or sustainable at the point of purchasing an item.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/44590897" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="bcc37058608de44be74256b95aee0ea4" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":65049850,"asset_id":44590897,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/65049850/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="18029460" href="https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards">Harriette Richards</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="18029460" type="text/json">{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_44590897 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="44590897"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 44590897, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_44590897", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=44590897]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_44590897").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_44590897").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="44590897"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">10</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="46" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_Ethics">Business Ethics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="46" type="text/json">{"id":46,"name":"Business Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="814" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics">Ethics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="814" type="text/json">{"id":814,"name":"Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1452" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility">Corporate Social Responsibility</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1452" type="text/json">{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5274" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption">Ethical Consumption</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="5274" type="text/json">{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=44590897]'), work: {"id":44590897,"title":"Ethical fashion is confusing — even shoppers with good intentions get overwhelmed","created_at":"2020-11-27T19:40:26.156-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/44590897/Ethical_fashion_is_confusing_even_shoppers_with_good_intentions_get_overwhelmed?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_44590897","summary":"As Australian consumers step out of their loungewear post-lockdown, many might be looking to buy new clothes for themselves or as gifts. Whether you re buying sweatpants or sequins, online or in-store, ethical fashion shopping can be confusing. There are so many terms, certifications, and accreditation systems-not to mention the marketing spin and corporate greenwashing-to navigate. Our recent research examined the impact modern slavery laws have had on consumer awareness about ethical fashion, as part of a larger project on modern slavery. We surveyed over a hundred participants, conducting additional interviews with 22 of them via Zoom during July and August 2020. They told us that although they felt well informed about the broader issues, they struggled with knowing what was truly ethical or sustainable at the point of purchasing an item. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":65049850,"asset_id":44590897,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":46,"name":"Business Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":814,"name":"Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":24536,"name":"Consumer Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Research?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":467227,"name":"Modern Slavery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Modern_Slavery?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41335770" data-work_id="41335770" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41335770/The_Rise_of_Sustainable_Fashion_Glossary_for_an_Article">The Rise of Sustainable Fashion -Glossary for an Article</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The paper “Eco-friendly Concepts and Ethical Movements in the Fashion Industry” seeking to present and to explore the history and application of the eco-friendly and sustainable design concepts in fashion design, has been published as a... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_41335770" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The paper “Eco-friendly Concepts and Ethical Movements in the Fashion Industry” seeking to present and to explore the history<br />and application of the eco-friendly and sustainable design concepts in fashion design, has been published as a conference paper, the<br />year 2014 [1,2]. Despite its limitations, its real aim was to introduce the rise of the idea of sustainability in the Fashion World and to<br />draw attention to the core values of the movement. It certainly proved to be a useful source for many authors, given a large number<br />of visitors. This review supplements it with fresh information on the topic and with in-depth examining the concept of sustainable<br />fashion, its goals, and true values attempting to contribute to scientific research for more sustainable fashion.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41335770" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="7489fab03ec8c5d1ee3555edce862b35" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61540096,"asset_id":41335770,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61540096/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="97219795" href="https://unam.academia.edu/irispublishers">iris publishers</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="97219795" type="text/json">{"id":97219795,"first_name":"iris","last_name":"publishers","domain_name":"unam","page_name":"irispublishers","display_name":"iris publishers","profile_url":"https://unam.academia.edu/irispublishers?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/97219795/21209210/22437744/s65_iris.publishers.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_41335770 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="41335770"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 41335770, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_41335770", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=41335770]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_41335770").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_41335770").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="41335770"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i></div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl6x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (false) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41335770]'), work: {"id":41335770,"title":"The Rise of Sustainable Fashion -Glossary for an Article","created_at":"2019-12-17T05:08:35.612-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41335770/The_Rise_of_Sustainable_Fashion_Glossary_for_an_Article?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_41335770","summary":"The paper “Eco-friendly Concepts and Ethical Movements in the Fashion Industry” seeking to present and to explore the history\nand application of the eco-friendly and sustainable design concepts in fashion design, has been published as a conference paper, the\nyear 2014 [1,2]. Despite its limitations, its real aim was to introduce the rise of the idea of sustainability in the Fashion World and to\ndraw attention to the core values of the movement. It certainly proved to be a useful source for many authors, given a large number\nof visitors. This review supplements it with fresh information on the topic and with in-depth examining the concept of sustainable\nfashion, its goals, and true values attempting to contribute to scientific research for more sustainable fashion.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61540096,"asset_id":41335770,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":97219795,"first_name":"iris","last_name":"publishers","domain_name":"unam","page_name":"irispublishers","display_name":"iris publishers","profile_url":"https://unam.academia.edu/irispublishers?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/97219795/21209210/22437744/s65_iris.publishers.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41276334" data-work_id="41276334" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41276334/Interview_with_David_Sims">Interview with David Sims</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41276334" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="7da2dc9c712c06ac5f3761f74b7bd670" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61495666,"asset_id":41276334,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61495666/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="38991984" href="https://harvard.academia.edu/WilliamJSimmons">William J Simmons</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="38991984" type="text/json">{"id":38991984,"first_name":"William","last_name":"Simmons","domain_name":"harvard","page_name":"WilliamJSimmons","display_name":"William J Simmons","profile_url":"https://harvard.academia.edu/WilliamJSimmons?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/38991984/18151288/18139044/s65_william.simmons.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_41276334 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="41276334"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 41276334, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_41276334", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_41276334 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x 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type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3858" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Photography">Fashion Photography</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="3858" type="text/json">{"id":3858,"name":"Fashion Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Photography?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41276334]'), work: 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Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Art?f_ri=10272"},{"id":251473,"name":"Laura Mulvey","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Laura_Mulvey?f_ri=10272"},{"id":444271,"name":"Fashion and art collaboration","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_art_collaboration?f_ri=10272"},{"id":454303,"name":"The Male Gaze","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/The_Male_Gaze?f_ri=10272"},{"id":567264,"name":"Male Gaze","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Male_Gaze?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":749206,"name":"International History of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/International_History_of_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272"},{"id":958225,"name":"Editorial Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Editorial_Photography?f_ri=10272"},{"id":2024985,"name":"Fashion models and art photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_models_and_art_photography?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_36938835" data-work_id="36938835" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/36938835/Ethical_Fashion_The_Brands_Changing_the_Industry">Ethical Fashion: The Brands Changing the Industry</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm 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Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1208617,"name":"Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainability?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_56813992" data-work_id="56813992" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/56813992/Rural_consumers_adoption_of_CRM_in_a_developing_country_context">Rural consumers' adoption of CRM in a developing country context</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This paper illustrates how understanding consumer preferences through market research may enhance CRM adoption among the rural customers of a developing country like Bangladesh. It presents the case of Community Information Centre (CIC)... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_56813992" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This paper illustrates how understanding consumer preferences through market research may enhance CRM adoption among the rural customers of a developing country like Bangladesh. It presents the case of Community Information Centre (CIC) established by Grameenphone, a company owned by Telenor, the Norwegian telecommunications company and Grameen Bank, the Nobel prize winning micro credit organisation in the rural settings of Bangladesh. The paper shows that CIC is an innovative way of building and maintaining customer relationships and technological interface with the financially constrained consumers in a poor developing economy like Bangladesh.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/56813992" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="13e316f284a4a12ce30cb5a86d33f782" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":72015667,"asset_id":56813992,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/72015667/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="144995784" href="https://independent.academia.edu/MdMehediHasanMarufkhan">Md Mehedi Hasan Maruf khan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="144995784" type="text/json">{"id":144995784,"first_name":"Md Mehedi Hasan","last_name":"Maruf khan","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MdMehediHasanMarufkhan","display_name":"Md Mehedi Hasan Maruf khan","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MdMehediHasanMarufkhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_56813992 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="56813992"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 56813992, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_56813992", }); 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It presents the case of Community Information Centre (CIC) established by Grameenphone, a company owned by Telenor, the Norwegian telecommunications company and Grameen Bank, the Nobel prize winning micro credit organisation in the rural settings of Bangladesh. The paper shows that CIC is an innovative way of building and maintaining customer relationships and technological interface with the financially constrained consumers in a poor developing economy like Bangladesh.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":72015667,"asset_id":56813992,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":144995784,"first_name":"Md Mehedi Hasan","last_name":"Maruf khan","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MdMehediHasanMarufkhan","display_name":"Md Mehedi Hasan Maruf khan","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MdMehediHasanMarufkhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":6051,"name":"Social Development in developing countries","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Development_in_developing_countries?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":7453,"name":"Rural Development","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Rural_Development?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":7831,"name":"Management of Innovation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Management_of_Innovation?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":9815,"name":"Developing Countries","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Developing_Countries?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":13222,"name":"Customer Relationship Management (CRM)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Customer_Relationship_Management_CRM_?f_ri=10272"},{"id":133892,"name":"Bottom of the pyramid","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bottom_of_the_pyramid?f_ri=10272"},{"id":286236,"name":"Garments Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Garments_Industry?f_ri=10272"},{"id":817522,"name":"Bangladesh Garments Sector","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bangladesh_Garments_Sector?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_5420472" data-work_id="5420472" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/5420472/Mode_%C3%A9thique">Mode éthique</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">Pour citer ce papier : BLANCHET V. Mode éthique. In: Blanchet V et Carimentrand A (éds). Dictionnaire du commerce équitable. Versailles: Quae. 177-186.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/5420472" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="97fac83e81963174b37df4d5dfcdfc7b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":32551428,"asset_id":5420472,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/32551428/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1957179" href="https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet">Vivien Blanchet</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1957179" type="text/json">{"id":1957179,"first_name":"Vivien","last_name":"Blanchet","domain_name":"em-lyon","page_name":"VivienBlanchet","display_name":"Vivien Blanchet","profile_url":"https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1957179/654513/5079112/s65_vivien.blanchet.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_5420472 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="5420472"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 5420472, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_5420472", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_5420472 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 5420472; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_5420472"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_5420472 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="5420472"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 5420472; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=5420472]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_5420472").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_5420472").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="5420472"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">2</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="235333" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable">Commerce équitable</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="235333" type="text/json">{"id":235333,"name":"Commerce équitable","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=5420472]'), work: {"id":5420472,"title":"Mode éthique","created_at":"2013-12-13T22:02:34.398-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/5420472/Mode_%C3%A9thique?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_5420472","summary":"Pour citer ce papier : BLANCHET V. Mode éthique. In: Blanchet V et Carimentrand A (éds). Dictionnaire du commerce équitable. Versailles: Quae. 177-186.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":32551428,"asset_id":5420472,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1957179,"first_name":"Vivien","last_name":"Blanchet","domain_name":"em-lyon","page_name":"VivienBlanchet","display_name":"Vivien Blanchet","profile_url":"https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1957179/654513/5079112/s65_vivien.blanchet.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":235333,"name":"Commerce équitable","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_5174568" data-work_id="5174568" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/5174568/The_Future_is_Now_Designing_a_Sustainable_Fashion_Program_for_an_Age_of_Austerity">The Future is Now: Designing a Sustainable Fashion Program for an Age of Austerity</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Based on my experience in designing a new sustainable fashion curriculum, this paper will address two questions: How can we change pedagogical content and delivery methods to attend the contemporary problems of austerity and climate... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_5174568" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Based on my experience in designing a new sustainable fashion curriculum, this paper will address two questions: How can we change pedagogical content and delivery methods to attend the contemporary problems of austerity and climate change? And how can design education bring local communities together to work on projects that improve their own standard of living and benefit the environment? <br /> <br />Fashion education in Colombia has recently transitioned from technical to professional programs. I designed the new curriculum for a professional program that will open in 2014 at Universidad Jorge Tadeo Lozano in Bogotá. Based on previous research and work in sustainable design education, and inspired by new courses in sustainable fashion elsewhere, I designed 30 courses with sustainability as the linking objective throughout the curriculum. The curriculum seeks for students to innovate and look for design opportunities within the community at large with a focus on local economic and social problems. Fashion design students often feel disenfranchised with greater issues of the society and would like to contribute but are not sure how to do it. This new program looks at how fashion design can confront the critical issues of the larger society and come up with solutions. For example, the program seeks for students to work together with people from the community who participate in the design process so both learn skills with the universities technical training program. By fostering an open, creative and energetic environment the students and community will benefit from a platform of collaboration, active participation, improved design, production and manufacturing processes. This in itself is a bold change from a silos mentality. <br /> <br />I suggest Latin American universities have possibility of being at the forefront of a sustainable shift in education. Our current era of austerity and climate change can take advantage as a way of forming future-oriented designers that have their priority a concern with the environment, the society and the economy. Fashion designers educated through a sustainability curriculum will see themselves as agents of change that can be part of the solution. The local community´s involvement is intended to create jobs to make an ecologically sustainable design process viable.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/5174568" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="d761bcaf6e4034f9b9b4cee5ffeb3f6f" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":32722915,"asset_id":5174568,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/32722915/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="548431" href="https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/CarolinaObregon">Carolina Obregon</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="548431" type="text/json">{"id":548431,"first_name":"Carolina","last_name":"Obregon","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"CarolinaObregon","display_name":"Carolina Obregon","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/CarolinaObregon?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/548431/221385/166563762/s65_carolina.obregon.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_5174568 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="5174568"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 5174568, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_5174568", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=5174568]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_5174568").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_5174568").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="5174568"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="18845" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Sustainability">Environmental Sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="18845" type="text/json">{"id":18845,"name":"Environmental Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="24061" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design">Sustainable Design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="24061" type="text/json">{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="44785" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Multidisciplinary_design_practices">Multidisciplinary design practices</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="44785" type="text/json">{"id":44785,"name":"Multidisciplinary design practices","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Multidisciplinary_design_practices?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=5174568]'), work: {"id":5174568,"title":"The Future is Now: Designing a Sustainable Fashion Program for an Age of Austerity","created_at":"2013-11-21T04:12:44.385-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/5174568/The_Future_is_Now_Designing_a_Sustainable_Fashion_Program_for_an_Age_of_Austerity?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_5174568","summary":"Based on my experience in designing a new sustainable fashion curriculum, this paper will address two questions: How can we change pedagogical content and delivery methods to attend the contemporary problems of austerity and climate change? And how can design education bring local communities together to work on projects that improve their own standard of living and benefit the environment?\r\n\r\nFashion education in Colombia has recently transitioned from technical to professional programs. I designed the new curriculum for a professional program that will open in 2014 at Universidad Jorge Tadeo Lozano in Bogotá. Based on previous research and work in sustainable design education, and inspired by new courses in sustainable fashion elsewhere, I designed 30 courses with sustainability as the linking objective throughout the curriculum. The curriculum seeks for students to innovate and look for design opportunities within the community at large with a focus on local economic and social problems. Fashion design students often feel disenfranchised with greater issues of the society and would like to contribute but are not sure how to do it. This new program looks at how fashion design can confront the critical issues of the larger society and come up with solutions. For example, the program seeks for students to work together with people from the community who participate in the design process so both learn skills with the universities technical training program. By fostering an open, creative and energetic environment the students and community will benefit from a platform of collaboration, active participation, improved design, production and manufacturing processes. This in itself is a bold change from a silos mentality.\r\n\r\nI suggest Latin American universities have possibility of being at the forefront of a sustainable shift in education. Our current era of austerity and climate change can take advantage as a way of forming future-oriented designers that have their priority a concern with the environment, the society and the economy. Fashion designers educated through a sustainability curriculum will see themselves as agents of change that can be part of the solution. The local community´s involvement is intended to create jobs to make an ecologically sustainable design process viable. \r\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":32722915,"asset_id":5174568,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":548431,"first_name":"Carolina","last_name":"Obregon","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"CarolinaObregon","display_name":"Carolina Obregon","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/CarolinaObregon?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/548431/221385/166563762/s65_carolina.obregon.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":18845,"name":"Environmental Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":44785,"name":"Multidisciplinary design practices","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Multidisciplinary_design_practices?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":238057,"name":"Fashion and Textile Design for Education","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Textile_Design_for_Education?f_ri=10272"},{"id":650026,"name":"PLA, Bast Fibers, Biodegradable Composites","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/PLA_Bast_Fibers_Biodegradable_Composites?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_48390857 coauthored" data-work_id="48390857" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/48390857/Fashion_in_crisis_Consumer_activism_and_brand_ir_responsibility_in_lockdown">Fashion in 'crisis': Consumer activism and brand (ir)responsibility in lockdown</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The Covid-19 pandemic precipitated an ‘existential crisis’ in the global fashion industry. The effects of the crisis on the retail sector resulted in many brands deferring or cancelling orders from supplier factories without paying... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_48390857" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The Covid-19 pandemic precipitated an ‘existential crisis’ in the global fashion industry. The effects of the crisis on the retail sector resulted in many brands deferring or cancelling orders from supplier factories without paying workers, which had an instant and calamitous impact on the lives of garment workers in the global South. While activist organizations were quick to launch campaigns demanding that fashion brands #PayUp and take responsibility for their producers, these calls seemed futile in the face of fashion supply chains that have long been structured in ways that absolve brands of responsibility. The stories of worker exploitation and abuse in the garment industry that emerged during the pandemic were not discussed as effects of global capitalism, but rather were recast as evidence of a world suddenly in ‘crisis.’ In this article, we reflect on how the language of ‘crisis’ adopted in the early months of the pandemic produced particular modes and instruments of (ir)responsibility. We present an analysis of the effects of the pandemic on the global fashion industry, as well as the #PayUp and #WeWearAustralian campaigns, and argue that the exceptionalism underpinning the crisis discourse has both diffused and narrowed responsibility for garment worker exploitation, reiterating the very racialised inequalities that allow such exploitation to occur in the first place.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/48390857" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="6c9bf9fae94a569820e9d27013cbfae5" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":67019251,"asset_id":48390857,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/67019251/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="18029460" href="https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards">Harriette Richards</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="18029460" type="text/json">{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-48390857">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-48390857"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://nus.academia.edu/RimiKhan">Rimi Khan</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-48390857'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-48390857').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_48390857 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="48390857"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 48390857, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_48390857", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_48390857 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 48390857; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_48390857"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_48390857 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="48390857"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 48390857; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=48390857]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_48390857").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_48390857").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="48390857"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">9</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1452" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility">Corporate Social Responsibility</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1452" type="text/json">{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5274" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption">Ethical Consumption</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5274" type="text/json">{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=48390857]'), work: {"id":48390857,"title":"Fashion in 'crisis': Consumer activism and brand (ir)responsibility in lockdown","created_at":"2021-05-04T16:39:13.015-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/48390857/Fashion_in_crisis_Consumer_activism_and_brand_ir_responsibility_in_lockdown?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_48390857","summary":"The Covid-19 pandemic precipitated an ‘existential crisis’ in the global fashion industry. The effects of the crisis on the retail sector resulted in many brands deferring or cancelling orders from supplier factories without paying workers, which had an instant and calamitous impact on the lives of garment workers in the global South. While activist organizations were quick to launch campaigns demanding that fashion brands #PayUp and take responsibility for their producers, these calls seemed futile in the face of fashion supply chains that have long been structured in ways that absolve brands of responsibility. The stories of worker exploitation and abuse in the garment industry that emerged during the pandemic were not discussed as effects of global capitalism, but rather were recast as evidence of a world suddenly in ‘crisis.’ In this article, we reflect on how the language of ‘crisis’ adopted in the early months of the pandemic produced particular modes and instruments of (ir)responsibility. We present an analysis of the effects of the pandemic on the global fashion industry, as well as the #PayUp and #WeWearAustralian campaigns, and argue that the exceptionalism underpinning the crisis discourse has both diffused and narrowed responsibility for garment worker exploitation, reiterating the very racialised inequalities that allow such exploitation to occur in the first place.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":67019251,"asset_id":48390857,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"},{"id":5393413,"first_name":"Rimi","last_name":"Khan","domain_name":"nus","page_name":"RimiKhan","display_name":"Rimi Khan","profile_url":"https://nus.academia.edu/RimiKhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5393413/2366918/16179994/s65_rimi.khan.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":40023,"name":"Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272"},{"id":56429,"name":"Crisis","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Crisis?f_ri=10272"},{"id":183560,"name":"Business Ethics and Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_Ethics_and_Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272"},{"id":600361,"name":"Consumer Activism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Activism?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_66827773" data-work_id="66827773" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/66827773/Rethinking_value_radical_transparency_in_fashion">Rethinking value: ‘radical transparency’ in fashion</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">For fashion, which is connected so intimately to our bodies, senses, emotions, and memories, value is more than a matter of cost. In order to illustrate the true value of fashion ‘radical transparency’ is framed as a tool through which... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_66827773" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">For fashion, which is connected so intimately to our bodies, senses, emotions, and memories, value is more than a matter of cost. In order to illustrate the true value of fashion ‘radical transparency’ is framed as a tool through which brands can counter supply chain opacity and tell stories about the production of their garments. However, models of transparency often conceal more than they reveal. This article unpacks the concept of ‘radical transparency’ by exploring the differing approaches taken by three fashion brands: two large international brands and one boutique Australian label. It asks: how might radical transparency contribute to rethinking fashion value? By critically analysing the capacity for fashion businesses to communicate complex details of their supply chains to consumers who may suggest they want such information yet are also frequently overwhelmed by it, this article demonstrates the potential as well as the limits of transparency. It argues that while the degree to which models of transparency are ‘radical’ varies significantly, such methods of disclosure nevertheless introduce an important sense of openness to an industry otherwise defined by dislocated and difficult to trace modes of production.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/66827773" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="18029460" href="https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards">Harriette Richards</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="18029460" type="text/json">{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_66827773 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="66827773"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 66827773, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_66827773", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_66827773 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 66827773; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_66827773"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_66827773 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="66827773"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 66827773; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=66827773]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_66827773").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_66827773").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="66827773"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies">Cultural Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="188" type="text/json">{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="59537" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transparency">Transparency</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="59537" type="text/json">{"id":59537,"name":"Transparency","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transparency?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=66827773]'), work: {"id":66827773,"title":"Rethinking value: ‘radical transparency’ in fashion","created_at":"2022-01-01T19:42:44.975-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/66827773/Rethinking_value_radical_transparency_in_fashion?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_66827773","summary":"For fashion, which is connected so intimately to our bodies, senses, emotions, and memories, value is more than a matter of cost. In order to illustrate the true value of fashion ‘radical transparency’ is framed as a tool through which brands can counter supply chain opacity and tell stories about the production of their garments. However, models of transparency often conceal more than they reveal. This article unpacks the concept of ‘radical transparency’ by exploring the differing approaches taken by three fashion brands: two large international brands and one boutique Australian label. It asks: how might radical transparency contribute to rethinking fashion value? By critically analysing the capacity for fashion businesses to communicate complex details of their supply chains to consumers who may suggest they want such information yet are also frequently overwhelmed by it, this article demonstrates the potential as well as the limits of transparency. It argues that while the degree to which models of transparency are ‘radical’ varies significantly, such methods of disclosure nevertheless introduce an important sense of openness to an industry otherwise defined by dislocated and difficult to trace modes of production.","downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":59537,"name":"Transparency","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transparency?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":130815,"name":"Global Value Chains","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Value_Chains?f_ri=10272"},{"id":395704,"name":"Communication and media Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication_and_media_Studies?f_ri=10272"},{"id":595394,"name":"Continuum","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Continuum?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1032364,"name":"Global Supply Chains","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Supply_Chains?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43606391" data-work_id="43606391" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43606391/THE_ISSUE_OF_CHILD_LABOUR_WITHIN_FASHION_SUPPLY_CHAINS">THE ISSUE OF CHILD LABOUR WITHIN FASHION SUPPLY CHAINS</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This paper aims to investigate the variety of social responsibility that global fashion companies take for child labour in their supply chains. Through this, buying attitudes and practices have been discussed with regards to the effects... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43606391" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This paper aims to investigate the variety of social responsibility that global fashion companies take for child labour in their supply chains. Through this, buying attitudes and practices have been discussed with regards to the effects they have on child labour. The research is based on theoretical framework that was used to analyse the improvements that companies need to make to their supply chain to prevent ethical issues. Secondary research was conducted in order to provide thorough analysis of the existing theoretical knowledge; themes were drawn from this and then used as a framework for questions asked during primary research interviews with four industry professionals. Findings highlight the differences between theory and practical implications in the fashion industry and the current approaches that buyers are using to control ethical misconducts of their suppliers. Due to the limitations of the research, no practical implications have been made, however contribution to the research topic is highlighted in original findings of social responsibility in fashion industry with specifics to the child labour phenomenon.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43606391" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4db4834e1721bb0ba09069fa797a6afe" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63909442,"asset_id":43606391,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63909442/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="130918092" href="https://independent.academia.edu/EleanorHarry">Eleanor Harry</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="130918092" type="text/json">{"id":130918092,"first_name":"Eleanor","last_name":"Harry","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"EleanorHarry","display_name":"Eleanor Harry","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/EleanorHarry?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/130918092/43686829/34635739/s65_eleanor.harry.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43606391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43606391"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43606391, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43606391", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_43606391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43606391; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_43606391"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_43606391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="43606391"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43606391; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=43606391]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_43606391").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_43606391").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="43606391"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">10</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1335" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Supply_Chain_Management">Supply Chain Management</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1335" type="text/json">{"id":1335,"name":"Supply Chain Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Supply_Chain_Management?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1452" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility">Corporate Social Responsibility</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1452" type="text/json">{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="18895" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bangladesh">Bangladesh</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="18895" type="text/json">{"id":18895,"name":"Bangladesh","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bangladesh?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=43606391]'), work: {"id":43606391,"title":"THE ISSUE OF CHILD LABOUR WITHIN FASHION SUPPLY CHAINS","created_at":"2020-07-13T09:22:43.924-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/43606391/THE_ISSUE_OF_CHILD_LABOUR_WITHIN_FASHION_SUPPLY_CHAINS?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_43606391","summary":"This paper aims to investigate the variety of social responsibility that global fashion companies take for child labour in their supply chains. Through this, buying attitudes and practices have been discussed with regards to the effects they have on child labour. The research is based on theoretical framework that was used to analyse the improvements that companies need to make to their supply chain to prevent ethical issues. Secondary research was conducted in order to provide thorough analysis of the existing theoretical knowledge; themes were drawn from this and then used as a framework for questions asked during primary research interviews with four industry professionals. Findings highlight the differences between theory and practical implications in the fashion industry and the current approaches that buyers are using to control ethical misconducts of their suppliers. Due to the limitations of the research, no practical implications have been made, however contribution to the research topic is highlighted in original findings of social responsibility in fashion industry with specifics to the child labour phenomenon.\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63909442,"asset_id":43606391,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":130918092,"first_name":"Eleanor","last_name":"Harry","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"EleanorHarry","display_name":"Eleanor Harry","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/EleanorHarry?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/130918092/43686829/34635739/s65_eleanor.harry.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1335,"name":"Supply Chain Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Supply_Chain_Management?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1452,"name":"Corporate Social Responsibility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corporate_Social_Responsibility?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":18895,"name":"Bangladesh","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bangladesh?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":49736,"name":"Green Supply Chain Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Green_Supply_Chain_Management?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":111410,"name":"Child Labour","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Child_Labour?f_ri=10272"},{"id":183721,"name":"Child Labour in India","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Child_Labour_in_India?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":855598,"name":"Child labour and its effect on education system","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Child_labour_and_its_effect_on_education_system?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_441170" data-work_id="441170" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/441170/Conscience_Clothing_Polarisation_of_the_Fashion_Textile_market">Conscience Clothing: Polarisation of the Fashion Textile market. </a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">It is 2018 in a clothing store called Shop One, an automaton greets you, and a scanner beam checks your vital signs and size. It says ‘co-creation and customisation this floor, emotion and intelligent clothing first floor, track and trace... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_441170" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">It is 2018 in a clothing store called Shop One, an automaton greets you, and a scanner beam checks your vital signs and size. It says ‘co-creation and customisation this floor, emotion and intelligent clothing first floor, track and trace swap shop third floor and artisanal collections penthouse.’ This is the fashion experience for generation ‘C’, children of the digital world where brands no longer dictate. They will be in Control, part of the local and global Community they will innovate and Co-Create products with business, expecting the supply chain to be transparent and to ‘do the right thing’. Sustainability, or people, profit, planet will be part of the bedrock of a Cradle to Cradle fashion textiles system. <br /> <br />Adjacent Shop Two has mountains of colour and trend merchandise from global factories. Huge ‘how to wear it’ virtual fashion projections line the walls and holograms march the catwalk. Buy one get three free, proliferate in natural fibre fabrics, ‘rent a look’ is popular. Mobile phones tell what to buy, what suits, how much and what size. Parallel examples of ‘fiction’ fashion retail illustrate the emerging polarisation of the industry and consumer shift, which is already taking place on every high street and in every mall. <br /> <br />The oil and water separation of the industry is now underway as customers experience a lack of trust in brands, choice fatigue, disenchantment with the patriarchal approach of retailers employing dated qualitative research methods, cynical smokescreen of fair and ethical trade and spurious sustainability claims or ‘green wash’. Fashion consumers are changing, innovators or ‘innosumers’ (Farrer and Fraser 2008) are taking control, customising and co-creating products demanding information and forcing change. Dr Joan Farrer RCA, Director Textile + Design Lab, Associate Professor AUT University, and Kim Fraser, Department of Fashion, AUT University, Auckland, New Zealand take a look at where designers, manufacturers, retailers and consumers place themselves in the polarised fashion textile industry of the future.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/441170" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="17d498f4f3cc103b5747204ce89a7bf8" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":1990329,"asset_id":441170,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/1990329/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="303751" href="https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser">Kim Fraser</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="303751" type="text/json">{"id":303751,"first_name":"Kim","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"aut","page_name":"KimFraser","display_name":"Kim Fraser","profile_url":"https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/303751/92257/101385/s65_kim.fraser.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_441170 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="441170"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 441170, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_441170", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_441170 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 441170; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_441170"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_441170 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="441170"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 441170; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=441170]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_441170").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_441170").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="441170"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability">Fashion ethics and sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8188" type="text/json">{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="24061" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design">Sustainable Design</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="24061" type="text/json">{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=441170]'), work: {"id":441170,"title":"Conscience Clothing: Polarisation of the Fashion Textile market. ","created_at":"2011-02-13T05:24:19.502-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/441170/Conscience_Clothing_Polarisation_of_the_Fashion_Textile_market?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_441170","summary":"It is 2018 in a clothing store called Shop One, an automaton greets you, and a scanner beam checks your vital signs and size. It says ‘co-creation and customisation this floor, emotion and intelligent clothing first floor, track and trace swap shop third floor and artisanal collections penthouse.’ This is the fashion experience for generation ‘C’, children of the digital world where brands no longer dictate. They will be in Control, part of the local and global Community they will innovate and Co-Create products with business, expecting the supply chain to be transparent and to ‘do the right thing’. Sustainability, or people, profit, planet will be part of the bedrock of a Cradle to Cradle fashion textiles system. \r\n\r\nAdjacent Shop Two has mountains of colour and trend merchandise from global factories. Huge ‘how to wear it’ virtual fashion projections line the walls and holograms march the catwalk. Buy one get three free, proliferate in natural fibre fabrics, ‘rent a look’ is popular. Mobile phones tell what to buy, what suits, how much and what size. Parallel examples of ‘fiction’ fashion retail illustrate the emerging polarisation of the industry and consumer shift, which is already taking place on every high street and in every mall. \r\n\r\nThe oil and water separation of the industry is now underway as customers experience a lack of trust in brands, choice fatigue, disenchantment with the patriarchal approach of retailers employing dated qualitative research methods, cynical smokescreen of fair and ethical trade and spurious sustainability claims or ‘green wash’. Fashion consumers are changing, innovators or ‘innosumers’ (Farrer and Fraser 2008) are taking control, customising and co-creating products demanding information and forcing change. Dr Joan Farrer RCA, Director Textile + Design Lab, Associate Professor AUT University, and Kim Fraser, Department of Fashion, AUT University, Auckland, New Zealand take a look at where designers, manufacturers, retailers and consumers place themselves in the polarised fashion textile industry of the future.\r\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":1990329,"asset_id":441170,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":303751,"first_name":"Kim","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"aut","page_name":"KimFraser","display_name":"Kim Fraser","profile_url":"https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/303751/92257/101385/s65_kim.fraser.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40707587" data-work_id="40707587" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40707587/How_the_Fast_Fashion_Industry_Can_Address_the_Issue_of_Sustainability">How the Fast Fashion Industry Can Address the Issue of Sustainability</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore how fast fashion industry can address the issue of environmental and social sustainability. Methodology: This included an investigation on the possible approaches for making the industry... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40707587" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore how fast fashion industry can address the issue of environmental and social sustainability.<br />Methodology: This included an investigation on the possible approaches for making the industry develop towards a more sustainable way. Therefore, a qualitative exploratory case study on a fast fashion company (H&M) will be conducted. Then, identify different stakeholders’ (suppliers, retailers, customers) perspectives in promoting sustainable fast fashion, interviews with suppliers, designers and customers will be included.<br />Findings: The findings show that fast fashion firms can develop in a more sustainable way through building an effective SSCM and adopting CSR principles. Interview results suggest that suppliers, fashion designers and fashion customers have a limited knowledge towards the concept sustainability. There is a lack of clear guidelines and monitoring frameworks for the fashion industry in general. An integrated collaboration between different stakeholders both inside and outside the fashion supply chain is essential in achieving the goal of sustainability.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40707587" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4c10a06f7ba1a3a3499297d0ea5b0d77" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60992554,"asset_id":40707587,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60992554/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="7898512" href="https://ucl.academia.edu/YanjunLi">Yanjun Li</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="7898512" type="text/json">{"id":7898512,"first_name":"Yanjun","last_name":"Li","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"YanjunLi","display_name":"Yanjun Li","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/YanjunLi?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40707587 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40707587"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40707587, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40707587", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40707587 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40707587; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40707587"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40707587 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40707587"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40707587; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40707587]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40707587").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40707587").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40707587"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="99056" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion">Sustainable Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="99056" type="text/json">{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1429537" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fast_Fashion_Industry">Fast Fashion Industry</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1429537" type="text/json">{"id":1429537,"name":"Fast Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fast_Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40707587]'), work: {"id":40707587,"title":"How the Fast Fashion Industry Can Address the Issue of Sustainability","created_at":"2019-10-23T02:40:36.096-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40707587/How_the_Fast_Fashion_Industry_Can_Address_the_Issue_of_Sustainability?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_40707587","summary":"Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore how fast fashion industry can address the issue of environmental and social sustainability.\nMethodology: This included an investigation on the possible approaches for making the industry develop towards a more sustainable way. Therefore, a qualitative exploratory case study on a fast fashion company (H\u0026M) will be conducted. Then, identify different stakeholders’ (suppliers, retailers, customers) perspectives in promoting sustainable fast fashion, interviews with suppliers, designers and customers will be included.\nFindings: The findings show that fast fashion firms can develop in a more sustainable way through building an effective SSCM and adopting CSR principles. Interview results suggest that suppliers, fashion designers and fashion customers have a limited knowledge towards the concept sustainability. There is a lack of clear guidelines and monitoring frameworks for the fashion industry in general. An integrated collaboration between different stakeholders both inside and outside the fashion supply chain is essential in achieving the goal of sustainability.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60992554,"asset_id":40707587,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":7898512,"first_name":"Yanjun","last_name":"Li","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"YanjunLi","display_name":"Yanjun Li","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/YanjunLi?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1429537,"name":"Fast Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fast_Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_17818370" data-work_id="17818370" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/17818370/CLOTHING_CHOICES_IN_GANDHIS_NON_VERBAL_COMMUNICATION">CLOTHING CHOICES IN GANDHI'S NON-VERBAL COMMUNICATION</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This second of the two articles on the Swadeshi Movement published earlier in 'Gandhi Marg' brings into relief its symbolic impact with the help of a few theories from the vast field of nonverbal communication. As a result, Gandhi’s rare... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_17818370" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This second of the two articles on the Swadeshi Movement published earlier in 'Gandhi Marg' brings into relief its symbolic impact with the help of a few theories from the vast field of nonverbal communication. As a result, Gandhi’s rare ability to invest clothing-related objects and events with extraordinary socio-political significance is amply demonstrated.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/17818370" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3306ca62784e60ccae2e3c3a2bd1fa25" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":39727130,"asset_id":17818370,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/39727130/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="463047" href="https://unisal.academia.edu/PeterGonsalves">Peter Gonsalves</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="463047" type="text/json">{"id":463047,"first_name":"Peter","last_name":"Gonsalves","domain_name":"unisal","page_name":"PeterGonsalves","display_name":"Peter Gonsalves","profile_url":"https://unisal.academia.edu/PeterGonsalves?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/463047/153028/1058124/s65_peter.gonsalves.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_17818370 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="17818370"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 17818370, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_17818370", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_17818370 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 17818370; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_17818370"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_17818370 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="17818370"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 17818370; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=17818370]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_17818370").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_17818370").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="17818370"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">26</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability">Fashion ethics and sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8188" type="text/json">{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=17818370]'), work: {"id":17818370,"title":"CLOTHING CHOICES IN GANDHI'S NON-VERBAL COMMUNICATION","created_at":"2015-11-05T12:50:05.835-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/17818370/CLOTHING_CHOICES_IN_GANDHIS_NON_VERBAL_COMMUNICATION?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_17818370","summary":"This second of the two articles on the Swadeshi Movement published earlier in 'Gandhi Marg' brings into relief its symbolic impact with the help of a few theories from the vast field of nonverbal communication. As a result, Gandhi’s rare ability to invest clothing-related objects and events with extraordinary socio-political significance is amply demonstrated.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":39727130,"asset_id":17818370,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":463047,"first_name":"Peter","last_name":"Gonsalves","domain_name":"unisal","page_name":"PeterGonsalves","display_name":"Peter Gonsalves","profile_url":"https://unisal.academia.edu/PeterGonsalves?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/463047/153028/1058124/s65_peter.gonsalves.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":8621,"name":"Gandhi \u0026 Modern Economy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhi_and_Modern_Economy?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":11832,"name":"Nonverbal Communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nonverbal_Communication?f_ri=10272"},{"id":19601,"name":"Nonverbal Behavior","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nonverbal_Behavior?f_ri=10272"},{"id":41671,"name":"Clothing Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_Culture?f_ri=10272"},{"id":68735,"name":"Gandhian theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_theory?f_ri=10272"},{"id":70240,"name":"Mahatma Gandhi","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mahatma_Gandhi?f_ri=10272"},{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=10272"},{"id":114289,"name":"Gandhian Studies, Caste and Society","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_Studies_Caste_and_Society?f_ri=10272"},{"id":117861,"name":"Gandhian Thought","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_Thought?f_ri=10272"},{"id":120731,"name":"Gandhian Studies and Human Rights","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_Studies_and_Human_Rights?f_ri=10272"},{"id":132845,"name":"Gandhian philosophy,peace and nonviolent reconciliation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_philosophy_peace_and_nonviolent_reconciliation?f_ri=10272"},{"id":133242,"name":"Gandhian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_Studies?f_ri=10272"},{"id":156119,"name":"Global Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":183126,"name":"Gandhian Economic Thought","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhian_Economic_Thought?f_ri=10272"},{"id":188322,"name":"Gandhi","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gandhi?f_ri=10272"},{"id":233901,"name":"History of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":317466,"name":"Nonverbal Communication and emotions","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nonverbal_Communication_and_emotions?f_ri=10272"},{"id":477051,"name":"Governance and Gandhian Philosophy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Governance_and_Gandhian_Philosophy?f_ri=10272"},{"id":477081,"name":"gandhian principles ON CORPORATE GOVERNANCE","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/gandhian_principles_ON_CORPORATE_GOVERNANCE?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_362010 coauthored" data-work_id="362010" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/362010/Clothing_Society_and_Culture_in_Nineteenth_Century_England">Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Recently, the history of clothing has been the subject of intense scholarly interest, but there has been a shortage of source material available. This three-volume collection redresses the balance, bringing together rare documents and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_362010" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Recently, the history of clothing has been the subject of intense scholarly interest, but there has been a shortage of source material available. This three-volume collection redresses the balance, bringing together rare documents and unpublished manuscript material in both reset and facsimile form. The volumes cover the economics of buying and selling clothes, the art of dressmaking and its democratization and issues specific to working class dress during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. <br /> <br />Volume 1 examines clothing from a commercial perspective and contains material from retailers’ catalogues, advertizements, pricelists, posters and dressmakers’ manuals. Illustrations are reproduced in facsimile while print material is presented in reset format. Volume 2 concentrates on changing social attitudes and dress reform, including a series of articles by or about Oscar Wilde. Other sources come from a variety of newspaper and magazine articles, extracts from books and the lyrics of comic songs. Volume 3 looks at the problems and solutions which were faced by the working classes in their consumption of clothing. Various perspectives are examined through parish newsletters and reports, as well as other local and national sources, to produce a picture of hardship and deprivation tempered with charity and ingenuity. <br /> <br />This edition will not only be invaluable to those studying clothing but also to social historians and those with an interest in retailing and consumption. <br /> <br />•Full editorial apparatus: general introduction, headnotes, endnotes and volume introductions <br />•Includes previously unpublished manuscript documents <br />•Includes facsimile pages from retailers’ catalogues, newspaper advertizements and dressmakers’ manuals <br />•Consolidated index in the final volume</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/362010" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="59bd25bd3607c79905221fa49a3d1d8b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":1794981,"asset_id":362010,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/1794981/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="153979" href="https://vam.academia.edu/ClareRose">Clare Rose</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="153979" type="text/json">{"id":153979,"first_name":"Clare","last_name":"Rose","domain_name":"vam","page_name":"ClareRose","display_name":"Clare Rose","profile_url":"https://vam.academia.edu/ClareRose?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/153979/40165/49455676/s65_clare.rose.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-362010">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-362010"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/VivienneRichmond">Vivienne Richmond</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-362010'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-362010').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_362010 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="362010"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 362010, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_362010", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_362010 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 362010; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_362010"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_362010 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="362010"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 362010; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=362010]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_362010").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_362010").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="362010"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1632" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History">Design History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1632" type="text/json">{"id":1632,"name":"Design History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History">Gender History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2272" type="text/json">{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=362010]'), work: {"id":362010,"title":"Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England","created_at":"2010-11-05T06:40:52.709-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/362010/Clothing_Society_and_Culture_in_Nineteenth_Century_England?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_362010","summary":"Recently, the history of clothing has been the subject of intense scholarly interest, but there has been a shortage of source material available. This three-volume collection redresses the balance, bringing together rare documents and unpublished manuscript material in both reset and facsimile form. The volumes cover the economics of buying and selling clothes, the art of dressmaking and its democratization and issues specific to working class dress during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. \r\n\r\nVolume 1 examines clothing from a commercial perspective and contains material from retailers’ catalogues, advertizements, pricelists, posters and dressmakers’ manuals. Illustrations are reproduced in facsimile while print material is presented in reset format. Volume 2 concentrates on changing social attitudes and dress reform, including a series of articles by or about Oscar Wilde. Other sources come from a variety of newspaper and magazine articles, extracts from books and the lyrics of comic songs. Volume 3 looks at the problems and solutions which were faced by the working classes in their consumption of clothing. Various perspectives are examined through parish newsletters and reports, as well as other local and national sources, to produce a picture of hardship and deprivation tempered with charity and ingenuity. \r\n\r\nThis edition will not only be invaluable to those studying clothing but also to social historians and those with an interest in retailing and consumption. \r\n\r\n•Full editorial apparatus: general introduction, headnotes, endnotes and volume introductions\r\n•Includes previously unpublished manuscript documents\r\n•Includes facsimile pages from retailers’ catalogues, newspaper advertizements and dressmakers’ manuals\r\n•Consolidated index in the final volume","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":1794981,"asset_id":362010,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":153979,"first_name":"Clare","last_name":"Rose","domain_name":"vam","page_name":"ClareRose","display_name":"Clare Rose","profile_url":"https://vam.academia.edu/ClareRose?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/153979/40165/49455676/s65_clare.rose.jpg"},{"id":483748,"first_name":"Vivienne","last_name":"Richmond","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"VivienneRichmond","display_name":"Vivienne Richmond","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/VivienneRichmond?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/483748/16154446/16596804/s65_vivienne.richmond.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1632,"name":"Design History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":13666,"name":"Consumer Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Culture?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_3183346" data-work_id="3183346" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/3183346/Are_We_Addicted_to_the_Suffering_of_Animals_2012_">Are We Addicted to the Suffering of Animals? (2012)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">We are all opposed—at least ostensibly—to mindless animal cruelty. Almost no one defended Michael Vick and his cohorts when they tortured and killed dogs for their dog fighting ring. Imagine Michael Vick had been selling a product—say... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_3183346" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">We are all opposed—at least ostensibly—to mindless animal cruelty. Almost no one defended Michael Vick and his cohorts when they tortured and killed dogs for their dog fighting ring. Imagine Michael Vick had been selling a product—say dog-skin handbags from the “losing” dogs—that financially supported and enabled the continued torture of more dogs. We would not only not buy these dog-skin handbags, we would boycott the handbags and urge others not to buy them as well. This essay argues that we are a lot more like Michael Vick than we care to imagine. No, we’re not highly paid football players and we won’t go to jail or go bankrupt for our participation in animal cruelty. But like Michael Vick, we participate in animal cruelty, and we are similarly raised in a way that we do not see its wrongfulness. How do we participate in animal cruelty? By spending billions of dollars each year financially supporting an incredibly common and pervasive form of animal cruelty: factory farming, which involves raising pigs, cows, chickens, turkeys, and other animals in deplorable conditions. And, like Michael Vick, we financially support it in part because we have an addiction. More specifically, we are addicted to the taste of low-cost industrial meat. As a result, we refuse to see our financial support of large scale cruelty to animals.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/3183346" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="9cb9efceab7156176d75b2c8c09462be" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37384965,"asset_id":3183346,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37384965/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1330833" href="https://utoronto.academia.edu/JohnBerkman">John R Berkman</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1330833" type="text/json">{"id":1330833,"first_name":"John","last_name":"Berkman","domain_name":"utoronto","page_name":"JohnBerkman","display_name":"John R Berkman","profile_url":"https://utoronto.academia.edu/JohnBerkman?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1330833/1277771/17843310/s65_john.berkman.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_3183346 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="3183346"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 3183346, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_3183346", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=3183346]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_3183346").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_3183346").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="3183346"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">52</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="814" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics">Ethics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="814" type="text/json">{"id":814,"name":"Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="904" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Normative_Ethics">Normative Ethics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="904" type="text/json">{"id":904,"name":"Normative Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Normative_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="906" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Applied_Ethics">Applied Ethics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="906" type="text/json">{"id":906,"name":"Applied Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Applied_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1198" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Peace_and_Conflict_Studies">Peace and Conflict Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1198" type="text/json">{"id":1198,"name":"Peace and Conflict Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Peace_and_Conflict_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=3183346]'), work: {"id":3183346,"title":"Are We Addicted to the Suffering of Animals? (2012)","created_at":"2013-04-01T14:19:13.699-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/3183346/Are_We_Addicted_to_the_Suffering_of_Animals_2012_?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_3183346","summary":"We are all opposed—at least ostensibly—to mindless animal cruelty. Almost no one defended Michael Vick and his cohorts when they tortured and killed dogs for their dog fighting ring. Imagine Michael Vick had been selling a product—say dog-skin handbags from the “losing” dogs—that financially supported and enabled the continued torture of more dogs. We would not only not buy these dog-skin handbags, we would boycott the handbags and urge others not to buy them as well. This essay argues that we are a lot more like Michael Vick than we care to imagine. No, we’re not highly paid football players and we won’t go to jail or go bankrupt for our participation in animal cruelty. But like Michael Vick, we participate in animal cruelty, and we are similarly raised in a way that we do not see its wrongfulness. How do we participate in animal cruelty? By spending billions of dollars each year financially supporting an incredibly common and pervasive form of animal cruelty: factory farming, which involves raising pigs, cows, chickens, turkeys, and other animals in deplorable conditions. And, like Michael Vick, we financially support it in part because we have an addiction. More specifically, we are addicted to the taste of low-cost industrial meat. As a result, we refuse to see our financial support of large scale cruelty to animals.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37384965,"asset_id":3183346,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1330833,"first_name":"John","last_name":"Berkman","domain_name":"utoronto","page_name":"JohnBerkman","display_name":"John R Berkman","profile_url":"https://utoronto.academia.edu/JohnBerkman?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1330833/1277771/17843310/s65_john.berkman.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":814,"name":"Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":904,"name":"Normative Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Normative_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":906,"name":"Applied Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Applied_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1198,"name":"Peace and Conflict Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Peace_and_Conflict_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1302,"name":"Theology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1625,"name":"Human-Animal Relations","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Human-Animal_Relations?f_ri=10272"},{"id":2960,"name":"The industrialization of agriculture: vertical coordination in the US food system.","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/The_industrialization_of_agriculture_vertical_coordination_in_the_US_food_system?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3128,"name":"Sociology of Food and Eating","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sociology_of_Food_and_Eating?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3182,"name":"Theological Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theological_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3233,"name":"Animal Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Animal_Studies?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3234,"name":"Animal Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Animal_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3468,"name":"Virtue Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Virtue_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":3602,"name":"Animal Theology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Animal_Theology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":4000,"name":"Anthropology of Food","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Food?f_ri=10272"},{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272"},{"id":6645,"name":"Catholic Social Teaching","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Catholic_Social_Teaching?f_ri=10272"},{"id":7695,"name":"Environmental Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":9846,"name":"Ecology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ecology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":9939,"name":"Torture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Torture?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10222,"name":"Food Production","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Food_Production?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10810,"name":"Ethical Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Theory?f_ri=10272"},{"id":11720,"name":"Social Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":12204,"name":"Animal Welfare","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Animal_Welfare?f_ri=10272"},{"id":12383,"name":"Moral Theology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Moral_Theology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":13004,"name":"Christian Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Christian_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":13849,"name":"Animal Rights/Liberation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Animal_Rights_Liberation?f_ri=10272"},{"id":18373,"name":"Moral 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js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/12203274/Global_Fashion_Brands_Style_Luxury_and_History_Editorial_">Global Fashion Brands: Style, Luxury and History (Editorial)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Fashion branding is more than just advertising. It has been defined as the cumulative image approach targeting customers with products, advertising and promotions organized around a coherent image. It helps to encourage the purchase and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_12203274" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Fashion branding is more than just advertising. It has been defined as the cumulative image approach targeting customers with products, advertising and promotions organized around a coherent image. It helps to encourage the purchase and the repurchase of consumer goods from the same company. While historically, fashion branding has primarily focused on consumption and purchasing decisions, recent scholarship now challenges old methods suggesting that branding is a process that needs to be analysed from a stylistic, luxury and historical pop cultural view using critical, ethnographic, individualistic, or interpretive meth¬ods. In this book authors explore the meaning behind fashion branding in the context of the contested power relations underpinning the production, marketing and consumption of style and fashion as part of our global culture.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/12203274" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="6ca7aa468c7684f907912a460d5dc795" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":40883294,"asset_id":12203274,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/40883294/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="13212830" href="https://stanford.academia.edu/GjokoMuratovski">Gjoko Muratovski</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="13212830" type="text/json">{"id":13212830,"first_name":"Gjoko","last_name":"Muratovski","domain_name":"stanford","page_name":"GjokoMuratovski","display_name":"Gjoko Muratovski","profile_url":"https://stanford.academia.edu/GjokoMuratovski?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/13212830/3717167/4355550/s65_gjoko.muratovski.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-12203274">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-12203274"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/AnnePeirsonSmith">Anne Peirson-Smith</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-12203274'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-12203274').html(); 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Üstelik yerel zanaata, çevreye duyarlı, uzun ömürlü ve sürekli olan bir modaya. Sessiz direnişçiler; endüstriyel moda sistemini değil, yavaş moda anlayışını benimsetiyorlar.... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_21070394" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Sürdürülebilir moda okurlarını dişil bir dünyaya davet ediyor. Üstelik yerel zanaata, çevreye duyarlı, uzun ömürlü ve sürekli olan bir modaya. Sessiz direnişçiler; endüstriyel moda sistemini değil, yavaş moda anlayışını benimsetiyorlar. Konvansiyonel tasarımcının kafası karışıyor. <br /><br />Ahimsa modası ya da yavaş moda insani ve etik bir geleceği müjdeliyor. Tasarımcı ile kullanıcı arasındaki mesafe kısalıyor. İlişki şeffaflaşıyor ve güvenli oluyor. İdealize edilmiş vücutlar, neon ışıkları altındaki podyumlar yerine günlük, sürdürülebilir ve insani bir moda anlayışı inşa ediliyor. Tasarımcıların hayatı tasarladığı günümüzde, yeni bir perspektif görünür oluyor. <br /><br />Şölen Kipöz, akademisyen kimliğinin yanında günlük hayattan hiç kopmamış bir tasarımcı. Çeşitli şehirlerde sergilediği yavaş moda örnekleri camiadan büyük övgüler alıyor. Sürdürülebilir Moda kitabı bu yolda yeni bir çerçeve çiziyor ve umut verici bir kapı aralıyor. <br /><br />Moda dünyasının önemli isimleri Bora Aksu, Duygu Atalay, Gülsüm Baydar, Otto Von Busch, Dilek Himam, Kevin Huw Hilton, Ayşegül Kurtel ve Mine Ovacık yazılarıyla kitabı zenginleştiriyor.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/21070394" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="8aedba876aeb3bad18d27420bd08bd2f" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":41699880,"asset_id":21070394,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/41699880/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="32395522" href="https://independent.academia.edu/Yeni%C4%B0nsanYay%C4%B1nevi">Yeni İnsan Yayınevi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="32395522" type="text/json">{"id":32395522,"first_name":"Yeni İnsan","last_name":"Yayınevi","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"YeniİnsanYayınevi","display_name":"Yeni İnsan Yayınevi","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/Yeni%C4%B0nsanYay%C4%B1nevi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/32395522/9698728/10802255/s65_yeni_nsan.yay_nevi.jpg_oh_2997d2d48b7dfa62dc792add84b2d2b8_oe_5624c05e___gda___1446309303_7ccc1a1dd42af2cf003ec34ee7805e96"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-21070394">+2</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-21070394"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://iue.academia.edu/SolenKipoz">Solen Kipoz</a></span></div><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://beykent.academia.edu/DuyguAtalay">Duygu Atalay Onur</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-21070394'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-21070394').html(); 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Üstelik yerel zanaata, çevreye duyarlı, uzun ömürlü ve sürekli olan bir modaya. Sessiz direnişçiler; endüstriyel moda sistemini değil, yavaş moda anlayışını benimsetiyorlar. Konvansiyonel tasarımcının kafası karışıyor. \n\nAhimsa modası ya da yavaş moda insani ve etik bir geleceği müjdeliyor. Tasarımcı ile kullanıcı arasındaki mesafe kısalıyor. İlişki şeffaflaşıyor ve güvenli oluyor. İdealize edilmiş vücutlar, neon ışıkları altındaki podyumlar yerine günlük, sürdürülebilir ve insani bir moda anlayışı inşa ediliyor. Tasarımcıların hayatı tasarladığı günümüzde, yeni bir perspektif görünür oluyor. \n\nŞölen Kipöz, akademisyen kimliğinin yanında günlük hayattan hiç kopmamış bir tasarımcı. Çeşitli şehirlerde sergilediği yavaş moda örnekleri camiadan büyük övgüler alıyor. Sürdürülebilir Moda kitabı bu yolda yeni bir çerçeve çiziyor ve umut verici bir kapı aralıyor. \n\nModa dünyasının önemli isimleri Bora Aksu, Duygu Atalay, Gülsüm Baydar, Otto Von Busch, Dilek Himam, Kevin Huw Hilton, Ayşegül Kurtel ve Mine Ovacık yazılarıyla kitabı zenginleştiriyor. \n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":41699880,"asset_id":21070394,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":32395522,"first_name":"Yeni İnsan","last_name":"Yayınevi","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"YeniİnsanYayınevi","display_name":"Yeni İnsan Yayınevi","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/Yeni%C4%B0nsanYay%C4%B1nevi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/32395522/9698728/10802255/s65_yeni_nsan.yay_nevi.jpg_oh_2997d2d48b7dfa62dc792add84b2d2b8_oe_5624c05e___gda___1446309303_7ccc1a1dd42af2cf003ec34ee7805e96"},{"id":1512721,"first_name":"Solen","last_name":"Kipoz","domain_name":"iue","page_name":"SolenKipoz","display_name":"Solen 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class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/66827533/Industry_dialogue_navigating_complexity_in_the_future_of_fashion">Industry dialogue: navigating complexity in the future of fashion</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This industry dialogue, facilitated by Harriette Richards, co-founder of the Critical Fashion Studies research group at the University of Melbourne, is an edited version of an industry panel discussion that took place during the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_66827533" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This industry dialogue, facilitated by Harriette Richards, co-founder of the Critical Fashion Studies research group at the University of Melbourne, is an edited version of an industry panel discussion that took place during the International Critical Fashion Studies conference at the University of Melbourne in February 2020. The panellists, Yatu Widders Hunt, Courtney Holm and Teslin Doud, were asked to reflect on how they approach cultural and material sustainability, think about ethics and responsibility, and navigate the complexity of the often competing or contradictory demands inherent in attempting to run profitable, sustainable businesses whilst remaining true to ethical convictions and commitments to Country and community. In addition to the original conversation, this dialogue also includes reflections from the panellists on how the global Covid-19 pandemic affected their lives and work and how they are sustaining hope in the face of crisis. We would like to acknowledge that this conversation occurred on the unceded lands of the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin Nation and we would like to extend our respects to Wurundjeri Elders past and present. In sharing this event, we hope to continue the tradition of gathering together for the purposes of renewal, knowledge-sharing and celebration.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/66827533" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="18029460" href="https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards">Harriette Richards</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="18029460" type="text/json">{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_66827533 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="66827533"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 66827533, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_66827533", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=66827533]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_66827533").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_66827533").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="66827533"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">9</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies">Cultural Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="188" type="text/json">{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="61262" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Trends_and_issues_in_global_fashion_apparel_industry">Trends and issues in global fashion/ apparel industry</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="61262" type="text/json">{"id":61262,"name":"Trends and issues in global fashion/ apparel industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Trends_and_issues_in_global_fashion_apparel_industry?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="99056" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion">Sustainable Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="99056" type="text/json">{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=66827533]'), work: {"id":66827533,"title":"Industry dialogue: navigating complexity in the future of fashion","created_at":"2022-01-01T19:37:12.432-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/66827533/Industry_dialogue_navigating_complexity_in_the_future_of_fashion?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_66827533","summary":"This industry dialogue, facilitated by Harriette Richards, co-founder of the Critical Fashion Studies research group at the University of Melbourne, is an edited version of an industry panel discussion that took place during the International Critical Fashion Studies conference at the University of Melbourne in February 2020. The panellists, Yatu Widders Hunt, Courtney Holm and Teslin Doud, were asked to reflect on how they approach cultural and material sustainability, think about ethics and responsibility, and navigate the complexity of the often competing or contradictory demands inherent in attempting to run profitable, sustainable businesses whilst remaining true to ethical convictions and commitments to Country and community. In addition to the original conversation, this dialogue also includes reflections from the panellists on how the global Covid-19 pandemic affected their lives and work and how they are sustaining hope in the face of crisis. We would like to acknowledge that this conversation occurred on the unceded lands of the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin Nation and we would like to extend our respects to Wurundjeri Elders past and present. In sharing this event, we hope to continue the tradition of gathering together for the purposes of renewal, knowledge-sharing and celebration.","downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":18029460,"first_name":"Harriette","last_name":"Richards","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"HarrietteRichards","display_name":"Harriette Richards","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/HarrietteRichards?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/18029460/5019059/34323929/s65_harriette.richards.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":61262,"name":"Trends and issues in global fashion/ apparel industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Trends_and_issues_in_global_fashion_apparel_industry?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":395704,"name":"Communication and media Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication_and_media_Studies?f_ri=10272"},{"id":595394,"name":"Continuum","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Continuum?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_44156304" data-work_id="44156304" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/44156304/Symbology_of_Ethical_Clothing_An_interdisciplinary_approach_to_eco_clothing_as_a_cultural_object_in_the_context_of_social_and_sustainable_development">Symbology of Ethical Clothing - An interdisciplinary approach to eco-clothing as a cultural object in the context of social and sustainable development</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Nowadays it is impossible to deny the existence of fashion that has such an impact on our life. However, the impact of fast-fashion to our world is recently much more visible. For reducing costs of production, companies pollute our... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_44156304" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Nowadays it is impossible to deny the existence of fashion that has such an impact on our life. However, the impact of fast-fashion to our world is recently much more visible. For reducing costs of production, companies pollute our drinking water, poison our soil, consume our limited resources. At this point, without giving up the contribution of fashion to our life; it is time to focus on ways to achieve cleaner and fair production and consumption. All these new ways and methods are gathered under the umbrella of ethical fashion. In our era, the industries with the most impact on the world take the biggest responsibility, fashion is not just a field that symbolizes consumption. In this paper, I want to put forward the current situation of ethical fashion, dressed identities, symbology of ethical clothing and an interdisciplinary approach to ethical clothing as a cultural object in the context of social and sustainable development. This research incloses ethical fashion, its development processes and symbolic value.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/44156304" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="5b4d73c22c51b42ac6b1f837ea73930b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64512406,"asset_id":44156304,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64512406/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="19620974" href="https://wwwuniroma1.academia.edu/DilekUtku">Dilek Utku</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="19620974" type="text/json">{"id":19620974,"first_name":"Dilek","last_name":"Utku","domain_name":"wwwuniroma1","page_name":"DilekUtku","display_name":"Dilek Utku","profile_url":"https://wwwuniroma1.academia.edu/DilekUtku?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/19620974/5471545/20363084/s65_dilek.utku.jpeg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_44156304 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="44156304"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 44156304, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_44156304", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=44156304]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_44156304").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_44156304").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="44156304"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7125" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Culture">Culture</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="7125" type="text/json">{"id":7125,"name":"Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Culture?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="13202" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbology">Symbology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="13202" type="text/json">{"id":13202,"name":"Symbology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbology?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="53364" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Green_Revolution">Green Revolution</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="53364" type="text/json">{"id":53364,"name":"Green Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Green_Revolution?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=44156304]'), work: {"id":44156304,"title":"Symbology of Ethical Clothing - An interdisciplinary approach to eco-clothing as a cultural object in the context of social and sustainable development","created_at":"2020-09-24T08:17:28.783-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/44156304/Symbology_of_Ethical_Clothing_An_interdisciplinary_approach_to_eco_clothing_as_a_cultural_object_in_the_context_of_social_and_sustainable_development?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_44156304","summary":"Nowadays it is impossible to deny the existence of fashion that has such an impact on our life. However, the impact of fast-fashion to our world is recently much more visible. For reducing costs of production, companies pollute our drinking water, poison our soil, consume our limited resources. At this point, without giving up the contribution of fashion to our life; it is time to focus on ways to achieve cleaner and fair production and consumption. All these new ways and methods are gathered under the umbrella of ethical fashion. In our era, the industries with the most impact on the world take the biggest responsibility, fashion is not just a field that symbolizes consumption. In this paper, I want to put forward the current situation of ethical fashion, dressed identities, symbology of ethical clothing and an interdisciplinary approach to ethical clothing as a cultural object in the context of social and sustainable development. This research incloses ethical fashion, its development processes and symbolic value.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":64512406,"asset_id":44156304,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":19620974,"first_name":"Dilek","last_name":"Utku","domain_name":"wwwuniroma1","page_name":"DilekUtku","display_name":"Dilek Utku","profile_url":"https://wwwuniroma1.academia.edu/DilekUtku?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/19620974/5471545/20363084/s65_dilek.utku.jpeg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":7125,"name":"Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Culture?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":13202,"name":"Symbology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbology?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":53364,"name":"Green Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Green_Revolution?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":123693,"name":"Symbols","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbols?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":910447,"name":"Social and Cultural Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_and_Cultural_Identity?f_ri=10272"},{"id":964874,"name":"Emotional Values","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Emotional_Values?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1208617,"name":"Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":2686605,"name":"Symbolic Value","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbolic_Value?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_74313423" data-work_id="74313423" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/74313423/Fashion_Colonialism_and_Nationalism_Changing_Notions_of_Everyday_Dress_Codes_in_British_Colonial_Sri_Lanka">Fashion, Colonialism and Nationalism: Changing Notions of Everyday Dress Codes in British-Colonial Sri Lanka</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Fashion in colonial society may be defined as a cultural, historical, social, and political phenomenon that is affected and influenced by colonial dominance, anti-colonial resistance, and decolonization processes. Following the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_74313423" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Fashion in colonial society may be defined as a cultural, historical, social, and political phenomenon that is affected and influenced by colonial dominance, anti-colonial resistance, and decolonization processes. Following the demarcations of gender, class, and race in British colonial Sri Lanka, the colonizer's fashion and everyday clothing code altered dramatically. The pre-colonial clothing code of Sri Lankan men and women underwent a drastic alteration with the advent of didacticism influenced by the Victorian moral hegemony. Fashion and personal styles of its imagined community were also observed and re-interpreted in the arena of nationalism and anti-colonial resistance. The struggle between colonial modernism and patriotic stereotypes re-imagined the clothing of the colonized body. An in-depth examination of the evolving notions of fashion and attire in colonial Sri Lanka in relation to waves of identity politics will be presented in this paper.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/74313423" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="1b8ecd4bd2676b1d91bcfbe2ed59bc97" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":120584677,"asset_id":74313423,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/120584677/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1147970" href="https://pdn.academia.edu/duljayaneththi">Ramesha Jayaneththi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1147970" type="text/json">{"id":1147970,"first_name":"Ramesha","last_name":"Jayaneththi","domain_name":"pdn","page_name":"duljayaneththi","display_name":"Ramesha Jayaneththi","profile_url":"https://pdn.academia.edu/duljayaneththi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1147970/598685/63225869/s65_ramesha.jayaneththi.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_74313423 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="74313423"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 74313423, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_74313423", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=74313423]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_74313423").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_74313423").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="74313423"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">16</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1031" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Southeast_Asian_Studies">Southeast Asian Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1031" type="text/json">{"id":1031,"name":"Southeast Asian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Southeast_Asian_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1138" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies">Women's Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1138" type="text/json">{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2324" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/British_History">British History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2324" type="text/json">{"id":2324,"name":"British History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/British_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=74313423]'), work: {"id":74313423,"title":"Fashion, Colonialism and Nationalism: Changing Notions of Everyday Dress Codes in British-Colonial Sri Lanka","created_at":"2022-03-22T09:00:39.875-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/74313423/Fashion_Colonialism_and_Nationalism_Changing_Notions_of_Everyday_Dress_Codes_in_British_Colonial_Sri_Lanka?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_74313423","summary":"Fashion in colonial society may be defined as a cultural, historical, social, and political phenomenon that is affected and influenced by colonial dominance, anti-colonial resistance, and decolonization processes. Following the demarcations of gender, class, and race in British colonial Sri Lanka, the colonizer's fashion and everyday clothing code altered dramatically. The pre-colonial clothing code of Sri Lankan men and women underwent a drastic alteration with the advent of didacticism influenced by the Victorian moral hegemony. Fashion and personal styles of its imagined community were also observed and re-interpreted in the arena of nationalism and anti-colonial resistance. The struggle between colonial modernism and patriotic stereotypes re-imagined the clothing of the colonized body. An in-depth examination of the evolving notions of fashion and attire in colonial Sri Lanka in relation to waves of identity politics will be presented in this paper.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":120584677,"asset_id":74313423,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1147970,"first_name":"Ramesha","last_name":"Jayaneththi","domain_name":"pdn","page_name":"duljayaneththi","display_name":"Ramesha Jayaneththi","profile_url":"https://pdn.academia.edu/duljayaneththi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1147970/598685/63225869/s65_ramesha.jayaneththi.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1031,"name":"Southeast Asian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Southeast_Asian_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2324,"name":"British History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/British_History?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5471,"name":"South Asia","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/South_Asia?f_ri=10272"},{"id":5878,"name":"Nationalism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nationalism?f_ri=10272"},{"id":6464,"name":"British Imperial \u0026 Commonwelath History - 19th \u0026 20th century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/British_Imperial_and_Commonwelath_History_-_19th_and_20th_century?f_ri=10272"},{"id":6556,"name":"Colonialism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Colonialism?f_ri=10272"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=10272"},{"id":9850,"name":"Sri Lanka","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sri_Lanka?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":25767,"name":"Buddhist Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhist_Ethics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":41671,"name":"Clothing Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_Culture?f_ri=10272"},{"id":50968,"name":"Fashion Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Studies?f_ri=10272"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":592917,"name":"Female body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Female_body?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_13567082" data-work_id="13567082" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/13567082/Can_Global_Craft_and_Artisanship_be_the_Future_of_Luxury_Fashion">Can Global Craft and Artisanship be the Future of Luxury Fashion?</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Why is current global craft and artisanship undervalued, while historic global crafts are highly sought after and collected? Why is there such a perceived gulf in the valuing of the skill sets of European artisans and global artisans? The... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_13567082" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Why is current global craft and artisanship undervalued, while historic global crafts are highly sought after and collected? Why is there such a perceived gulf in the valuing of the skill sets of European artisans and global artisans? The aim of my research is to explore how global artisanship can be re-contextualized and valued through the partnership of tradition and sophisticated design. The partnering of design and craft can honor and value the tradition, and history of the craft, the context, and the people, while simultaneously re-contextualizing it, and re-valuing the artisanal work through cutting edge, sophisticated design.<br /><br />The need for companies to embrace sustainable development and ethical business practices, combined with the continued loss of traditional hand crafted techniques, potentially positions global craft as the new luxury. Culture, history and heritage, are priceless, and the authenticity of products made with heritage skill sets are a means of reinvigorating the over exposed branded luxury fashion market. The time has passed when a designer could dip into another culture for inspiration, and then produce their designs without recompense to the community that inspired their work. Designers can no longer in good conscience raid the cultural and historic heritage of others, without partnering with those communities and repaying that debt in equal value. <br /><br />In a globalized, branded world, the true luxury of the future is handcrafted, indigenous and heritage crafts, re-interpreted into high-end fashion.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/13567082" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="8b3ee14eedb5274fd8c6b111b942582f" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":38076091,"asset_id":13567082,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/38076091/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="5062895" href="https://independent.academia.edu/SassBrown">Sass Brown</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="5062895" type="text/json">{"id":5062895,"first_name":"Sass","last_name":"Brown","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"SassBrown","display_name":"Sass Brown","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/SassBrown?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5062895/17297525/17407425/s65_sass.brown.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_13567082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="13567082"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 13567082, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_13567082", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_13567082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 13567082; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_13567082"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_13567082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="13567082"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 13567082; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=13567082]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_13567082").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_13567082").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="13567082"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i></div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl6x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (false) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=13567082]'), work: {"id":13567082,"title":"Can Global Craft and Artisanship be the Future of Luxury Fashion?","created_at":"2015-07-02T18:21:25.910-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/13567082/Can_Global_Craft_and_Artisanship_be_the_Future_of_Luxury_Fashion?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_13567082","summary":"Why is current global craft and artisanship undervalued, while historic global crafts are highly sought after and collected? Why is there such a perceived gulf in the valuing of the skill sets of European artisans and global artisans? The aim of my research is to explore how global artisanship can be re-contextualized and valued through the partnership of tradition and sophisticated design. The partnering of design and craft can honor and value the tradition, and history of the craft, the context, and the people, while simultaneously re-contextualizing it, and re-valuing the artisanal work through cutting edge, sophisticated design.\n\nThe need for companies to embrace sustainable development and ethical business practices, combined with the continued loss of traditional hand crafted techniques, potentially positions global craft as the new luxury. Culture, history and heritage, are priceless, and the authenticity of products made with heritage skill sets are a means of reinvigorating the over exposed branded luxury fashion market. The time has passed when a designer could dip into another culture for inspiration, and then produce their designs without recompense to the community that inspired their work. Designers can no longer in good conscience raid the cultural and historic heritage of others, without partnering with those communities and repaying that debt in equal value. \n\nIn a globalized, branded world, the true luxury of the future is handcrafted, indigenous and heritage crafts, re-interpreted into high-end fashion.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":38076091,"asset_id":13567082,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":5062895,"first_name":"Sass","last_name":"Brown","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"SassBrown","display_name":"Sass Brown","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/SassBrown?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5062895/17297525/17407425/s65_sass.brown.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_494914" data-work_id="494914" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/494914/Finn_A_L_2011_April_Luxury_fashion_The_role_of_innovation_as_a_key_contributing_factor_in_the_development_of_luxury_fashion_goods_and_sustainable_fashion_design_In_Conference_Proceedings_2011_Fashion_and_Luxury_Between_Heritage_and_Innovation_pp_11_18_Institut_Francais_de_la_Mode_IFM_">Finn, A. L. (2011, April). Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design. In Conference Proceedings 2011 Fashion & Luxury: Between Heritage and Innovation (pp. 11-18). Institut Francais de la Mode (IFM).</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service)... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_494914" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. <br />The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. <br />This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/494914" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="ffd7c6597dbbdd1a8f75539883dc35bd" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":2294545,"asset_id":494914,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/2294545/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="361996" href="https://rmit.academia.edu/AngelaFinn">Angela Finn</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="361996" type="text/json">{"id":361996,"first_name":"Angela","last_name":"Finn","domain_name":"rmit","page_name":"AngelaFinn","display_name":"Angela Finn","profile_url":"https://rmit.academia.edu/AngelaFinn?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/361996/97250/179388/s65_angela.finn.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_494914 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="494914"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 494914, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_494914", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_494914 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 494914; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_494914"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_494914 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="494914"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 494914; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=494914]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_494914").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_494914").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="494914"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">17</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="988" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design">Design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="988" type="text/json">{"id":988,"name":"Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1606" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tacit_Knowledge">Tacit Knowledge</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1606" type="text/json">{"id":1606,"name":"Tacit Knowledge","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tacit_Knowledge?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=494914]'), work: {"id":494914,"title":"Finn, A. L. (2011, April). Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design. In Conference Proceedings 2011 Fashion \u0026 Luxury: Between Heritage and Innovation (pp. 11-18). Institut Francais de la Mode (IFM).","created_at":"2011-03-27T16:00:40.434-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/494914/Finn_A_L_2011_April_Luxury_fashion_The_role_of_innovation_as_a_key_contributing_factor_in_the_development_of_luxury_fashion_goods_and_sustainable_fashion_design_In_Conference_Proceedings_2011_Fashion_and_Luxury_Between_Heritage_and_Innovation_pp_11_18_Institut_Francais_de_la_Mode_IFM_?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_494914","summary":"Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda \u0026 Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda \u0026 Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions.\r\nThe terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt \u0026 Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want.\r\nThis paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":2294545,"asset_id":494914,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":361996,"first_name":"Angela","last_name":"Finn","domain_name":"rmit","page_name":"AngelaFinn","display_name":"Angela Finn","profile_url":"https://rmit.academia.edu/AngelaFinn?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/361996/97250/179388/s65_angela.finn.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":988,"name":"Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1606,"name":"Tacit Knowledge","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tacit_Knowledge?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2065,"name":"Research Methodology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Research_Methodology?f_ri=10272"},{"id":2606,"name":"Innovation statistics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Innovation_statistics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":9363,"name":"Design Innovation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_Innovation?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":17578,"name":"Fashion and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272"},{"id":60199,"name":"Luxury","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Luxury?f_ri=10272"},{"id":70766,"name":"Luxury Brands","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Luxury_Brands?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99007,"name":"Creative Practice Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Creative_Practice_Research?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99074,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99075,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Design?f_ri=10272"},{"id":99076,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Manufacturing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Manufacturing?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_5461518" data-work_id="5461518" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/5461518/THE_SUBVERSIVE_STITCH_REVISITED_THE_POLITICS_OF_CLOTH_symposium_programme_held_at_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_2013">THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH REVISITED: THE POLITICS OF CLOTH: symposium programme ( held at Victoria and Albert Museum), 2013</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">This is the programme given to delegates at the symposium in 2013, which was curated by myself, Dr. Jennifer Harris and Dr.  Althea Greenan.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" 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InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2488608" href="https://independent.academia.edu/PenninaBarnett">Pennina Barnett</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2488608" type="text/json">{"id":2488608,"first_name":"Pennina","last_name":"Barnett","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"PenninaBarnett","display_name":"Pennina Barnett","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/PenninaBarnett?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2488608/1085353/126938188/s65_pennina.barnett.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_5461518 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="5461518"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 5461518, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_5461518", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_5461518 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 5461518; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_5461518"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_5461518 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="5461518"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 5461518; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=5461518]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_5461518").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_5461518").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="5461518"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1236" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art">Art</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1236" type="text/json">{"id":1236,"name":"Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5618" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles_Fiber_Markets">Textiles/Fiber Markets</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="5618" type="text/json">{"id":5618,"name":"Textiles/Fiber Markets","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles_Fiber_Markets?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=5461518]'), work: {"id":5461518,"title":"THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH REVISITED: THE POLITICS OF CLOTH: symposium programme ( held at Victoria and Albert Museum), 2013","created_at":"2013-12-17T15:36:33.541-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/5461518/THE_SUBVERSIVE_STITCH_REVISITED_THE_POLITICS_OF_CLOTH_symposium_programme_held_at_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_2013?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_5461518","summary":"This is the programme given to delegates at the symposium in 2013, which was curated by myself, Dr. Jennifer Harris and Dr. Althea Greenan. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":32580519,"asset_id":5461518,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":2488608,"first_name":"Pennina","last_name":"Barnett","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"PenninaBarnett","display_name":"Pennina Barnett","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/PenninaBarnett?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2488608/1085353/126938188/s65_pennina.barnett.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1236,"name":"Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5618,"name":"Textiles/Fiber Markets","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles_Fiber_Markets?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5709,"name":"Politics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Politics?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40881086" data-work_id="40881086" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40881086/Be_creative_in_Bangladesh_Mobility_empowerment_and_precarity_in_ethical_fashion_enterprise">'Be creative' in Bangladesh? Mobility, empowerment and precarity in ethical fashion enterprise</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The rise of creative, ethical entrepreneurship within the global garment industry promises new kinds of empowerment and mobility for Asian workers. ‘Ethical fashion’ brings alternative ways of valuing cultural commodities by imagining... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40881086" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The rise of creative, ethical entrepreneurship within the global garment industry promises new kinds of empowerment and mobility for Asian workers. ‘Ethical fashion’ brings alternative ways of valuing cultural commodities by imagining South Asian textile workers as potentially creative, entrepreneurial, and empowered. However, ethical fashion enterprise also brings particular forms of instability and risk. Through an analysis of two ethical fashion brands in Bangladesh – Aarong and Bhalo – this article demonstrates the disconnect between an idealized discourse of empowerment, and the material conditions of precarity and immobility that characterize fashion enterprise, especially in its ‘ethical’ forms. The apparent mobility of notions of ethics and empowerment championed by ethical fashion brands are shadowed by the ‘predatory mobility’ of global capital. While transnational flows of capital, creativity and ethics can bring about productive connections and exchange between designers, workers, and consumers in and around Asia, these take place in a context of ongoing economic insecurity.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40881086" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f204acb6fe993f0aae7f3c9df48ae040" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61167910,"asset_id":40881086,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61167910/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="5393413" href="https://nus.academia.edu/RimiKhan">Rimi Khan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="5393413" type="text/json">{"id":5393413,"first_name":"Rimi","last_name":"Khan","domain_name":"nus","page_name":"RimiKhan","display_name":"Rimi Khan","profile_url":"https://nus.academia.edu/RimiKhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5393413/2366918/16179994/s65_rimi.khan.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40881086 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40881086"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40881086, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40881086", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40881086]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40881086").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40881086").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40881086"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2409" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mobility_Mobilities">Mobility/Mobilities</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2409" type="text/json">{"id":2409,"name":"Mobility/Mobilities","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mobility_Mobilities?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="113566" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Creative_Economy">Creative Economy</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="113566" type="text/json">{"id":113566,"name":"Creative Economy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Creative_Economy?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="353007" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Precarious_Work_Precarity">Precarious Work, Precarity</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="353007" type="text/json">{"id":353007,"name":"Precarious Work, Precarity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Precarious_Work_Precarity?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40881086]'), work: {"id":40881086,"title":"'Be creative' in Bangladesh? Mobility, empowerment and precarity in ethical fashion enterprise","created_at":"2019-11-08T18:06:44.322-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40881086/Be_creative_in_Bangladesh_Mobility_empowerment_and_precarity_in_ethical_fashion_enterprise?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_40881086","summary":"The rise of creative, ethical entrepreneurship within the global garment industry promises new kinds of empowerment and mobility for Asian workers. ‘Ethical fashion’ brings alternative ways of valuing cultural commodities by imagining South Asian textile workers as potentially creative, entrepreneurial, and empowered. However, ethical fashion enterprise also brings particular forms of instability and risk. Through an analysis of two ethical fashion brands in Bangladesh – Aarong and Bhalo – this article demonstrates the disconnect between an idealized discourse of empowerment, and the material conditions of precarity and immobility that characterize fashion enterprise, especially in its ‘ethical’ forms. The apparent mobility of notions of ethics and empowerment championed by ethical fashion brands are shadowed by the ‘predatory mobility’ of global capital. While transnational flows of capital, creativity and ethics can bring about productive connections and exchange between designers, workers, and consumers in and around Asia, these take place in a context of ongoing economic insecurity.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61167910,"asset_id":40881086,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":5393413,"first_name":"Rimi","last_name":"Khan","domain_name":"nus","page_name":"RimiKhan","display_name":"Rimi Khan","profile_url":"https://nus.academia.edu/RimiKhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5393413/2366918/16179994/s65_rimi.khan.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":2409,"name":"Mobility/Mobilities","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mobility_Mobilities?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":113566,"name":"Creative Economy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Creative_Economy?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":353007,"name":"Precarious Work, Precarity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Precarious_Work_Precarity?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1370578,"name":"Asian Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Asian_Cultural_Studies?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_27034859" data-work_id="27034859" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/27034859/Artisan_Culture_Rethinking_Sustainability_through_Collaborative_Exchange_between_Emerging_Australian_Designers_and_Indian_Artisans_in_Fashion_and_Textiles">Artisan Culture: Rethinking Sustainability through Collaborative Exchange between Emerging Australian Designers and Indian Artisans in Fashion and Textiles</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Attentiveness to ethical and ecological sustainable practice is building in the garment industry. However, many researchers still consider the garment-making manufacturing system to be ethically and ecologically unsustainable. This thesis... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_27034859" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Attentiveness to ethical and ecological sustainable practice is building in the garment industry. However, many researchers still consider the garment-making manufacturing system to be ethically and ecologically unsustainable. This thesis explores how industry connections between emerging Australian designers and traditional artisans in India can foster new possibilities for ethically sustainable collaborations. It draws on the experiences of forty-two fashion students collaborating with Indian textile artisans as well as the researchers twenty five years as a fashion practitioner, collaborating with Indian manufacturers.<br />It is argued that firsthand experience for students working with artisans, suppliers and ethical manufacturing practices will increase awareness of the complexities of a sustainable fashion future. This research offers a sustainable model of collaborative practice for future generations of emerging designers, which will build a deeper understanding for better ways to source and design. For artisans, the significance of this thesis could be to build an economically sustainable practice considering contemporary design. It suggests ways to engage in ethical and sustainable practices working with Indian artisans. The outcome of this research aims to contribute to a growing field of ethical practice in fashion and textiles.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/27034859" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="2a27dd205c6d4b170b93a04d82fb7fc4" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":47290629,"asset_id":27034859,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/47290629/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="24087548" href="https://cqu.academia.edu/JLantry">Julie Lantry</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="24087548" type="text/json">{"id":24087548,"first_name":"Julie","last_name":"Lantry","domain_name":"cqu","page_name":"JLantry","display_name":"Julie Lantry","profile_url":"https://cqu.academia.edu/JLantry?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/24087548/20224234/19946741/s65_julie.lantry.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_27034859 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="27034859"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 27034859, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_27034859", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=27034859]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_27034859").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_27034859").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="27034859"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="99056" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion">Sustainable Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="99056" type="text/json">{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="99074" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research">Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="99074" type="text/json">{"id":99074,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=27034859]'), work: {"id":27034859,"title":"Artisan Culture: Rethinking Sustainability through Collaborative Exchange between Emerging Australian Designers and Indian Artisans in Fashion and Textiles","created_at":"2016-07-17T00:44:09.687-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/27034859/Artisan_Culture_Rethinking_Sustainability_through_Collaborative_Exchange_between_Emerging_Australian_Designers_and_Indian_Artisans_in_Fashion_and_Textiles?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_27034859","summary":"Attentiveness to ethical and ecological sustainable practice is building in the garment industry. However, many researchers still consider the garment-making manufacturing system to be ethically and ecologically unsustainable. This thesis explores how industry connections between emerging Australian designers and traditional artisans in India can foster new possibilities for ethically sustainable collaborations. It draws on the experiences of forty-two fashion students collaborating with Indian textile artisans as well as the researchers twenty five years as a fashion practitioner, collaborating with Indian manufacturers.\nIt is argued that firsthand experience for students working with artisans, suppliers and ethical manufacturing practices will increase awareness of the complexities of a sustainable fashion future. This research offers a sustainable model of collaborative practice for future generations of emerging designers, which will build a deeper understanding for better ways to source and design. For artisans, the significance of this thesis could be to build an economically sustainable practice considering contemporary design. It suggests ways to engage in ethical and sustainable practices working with Indian artisans. The outcome of this research aims to contribute to a growing field of ethical practice in fashion and textiles.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":47290629,"asset_id":27034859,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":24087548,"first_name":"Julie","last_name":"Lantry","domain_name":"cqu","page_name":"JLantry","display_name":"Julie Lantry","profile_url":"https://cqu.academia.edu/JLantry?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/24087548/20224234/19946741/s65_julie.lantry.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99056,"name":"Sustainable Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":99074,"name":"Sustainable Fashion Textiles Research","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Fashion_Textiles_Research?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":267564,"name":"Indian Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Indian_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":682886,"name":"Sustainable and Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_26223366 coauthored" data-work_id="26223366" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/26223366/Ethics_Aesthetics_Sustainable_Fashion">Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">The catalog to a fashion exhibition I co-curated in 2009.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/26223366" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="8320ea1759d5d8fb625030a128be623a" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":46541467,"asset_id":26223366,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/46541467/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="267201" href="https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/FrancescaGranata">Francesca Granata</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="267201" type="text/json">{"id":267201,"first_name":"Francesca","last_name":"Granata","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"FrancescaGranata","display_name":"Francesca Granata","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/FrancescaGranata?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-26223366">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-26223366"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://clevelandart.academia.edu/SarahScaturro">Sarah Scaturro</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-26223366'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-26223366').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_26223366 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" 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data-has-card-for-ri="1094" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1436" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress">Anthropology of Dress</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1436" type="text/json">{"id":1436,"name":"Anthropology of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=26223366]'), work: {"id":26223366,"title":"Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion","created_at":"2016-06-16T07:51:12.806-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/26223366/Ethics_Aesthetics_Sustainable_Fashion?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_26223366","summary":"The catalog to a fashion exhibition I co-curated in 2009.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":46541467,"asset_id":26223366,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":267201,"first_name":"Francesca","last_name":"Granata","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"FrancescaGranata","display_name":"Francesca Granata","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/FrancescaGranata?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"},{"id":2398565,"first_name":"Sarah","last_name":"Scaturro","domain_name":"clevelandart","page_name":"SarahScaturro","display_name":"Sarah Scaturro","profile_url":"https://clevelandart.academia.edu/SarahScaturro?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2398565/754095/59468515/s65_sarah.scaturro.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion 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Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_and_Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_29568736" data-work_id="29568736" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/29568736/DEVELOPMENT_OF_THE_GARMENT_BRAND_GAIA_and_DUBOS_TARGET_AUDIENCE_AND_BEST_ENVIRONMENTAL_AND_ETHICAL_PRACTICE">DEVELOPMENT OF THE GARMENT BRAND GAIA & DUBOS: TARGET AUDIENCE AND BEST ENVIRONMENTAL AND ETHICAL PRACTICE</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This research essay examines the target audience’s profile and preferences for the development of the garment brand Gaia & Dubos, which creates and produces ecological and ethical high-end garments for women in the province of Quebec, and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_29568736" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This research essay examines the target audience’s profile and preferences for the development of the garment brand Gaia & Dubos, which creates and produces ecological and ethical high-end garments for women in the province of Quebec, and explores the best environmental and ethical practice to establish a sustainable fashion enterprise. The research methods for this project combine a literature review, an online survey and four individual interviews with the target audience in an attempt to answer the research questions: (1) Who is the target audience (demographics, values, lifestyle and habits)? (2) What are the target audience’s preferences when it comes to ecological and ethical clothing? (3) What is the best environmental and ethical practice for a clothing brand?</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/29568736" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="a8c2e9a86180c5c9d45d7338f26e152e" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":50009148,"asset_id":29568736,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/50009148/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="13275176" href="https://ryerson.academia.edu/L%C3%A9onieDaignaultLeclerc">Léonie Daignault-Leclerc</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="13275176" type="text/json">{"id":13275176,"first_name":"Léonie","last_name":"Daignault-Leclerc","domain_name":"ryerson","page_name":"LéonieDaignaultLeclerc","display_name":"Léonie Daignault-Leclerc","profile_url":"https://ryerson.academia.edu/L%C3%A9onieDaignaultLeclerc?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/13275176/8184041/13169530/s65_l_onie.daignault-leclerc.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_29568736 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="29568736"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 29568736, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_29568736", }); 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The research methods for this project combine a literature review, an online survey and four individual interviews with the target audience in an attempt to answer the research questions: (1) Who is the target audience (demographics, values, lifestyle and habits)? (2) What are the target audience’s preferences when it comes to ecological and ethical clothing? 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Data Ethics builds on the foundation provided by Computer and Information Ethics but, at the same time, it refines the approach endorsed so far in this research field, by shifting the Level of Abstraction of ethical enquiries, from being information-centric to being data-centric. This shift brings into focus the different moral dimensions of all kinds of data, even the data that never translate directly into information but can be used to support actions or generate behaviours, for example. It highlights the need for ethical analyses to concentrate on the content and nature of computational operations—the interactions among hardware, software, and data—rather than on the variety of digital technologies that enables them. And it emphasises the complexity of the ethical challenges posed by Data Science. Because of such complexity, Data Ethics should be developed from the start as a macroethics, that is, as an overall framework that avoids narrow, ad hoc approaches and addresses the ethical impact and implications of Data Science and its applications within a consistent, holistic, and inclusive framework. Only as a macroethics Data Ethics will provide the solutions that can maximise the value of Data Science for our societies, for all of us, and for our environments.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/30234860" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="5c05dc08a9304e2a58df11a95779f9ea" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":51111581,"asset_id":30234860,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/51111581/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="6616" href="https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi">Luciano Floridi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="6616" type="text/json">{"id":6616,"first_name":"Luciano","last_name":"Floridi","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"LucianoFloridi","display_name":"Luciano Floridi","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/6616/2546/117746817/s65_luciano.floridi.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-30234860">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-30234860"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://oxford.academia.edu/MariaTadeo">Mariarosaria Taddeo</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-30234860'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-30234860').html(); 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Because of such complexity, Data Ethics should be developed from the start as a macroethics, that is, as an overall framework that avoids narrow, ad hoc approaches and addresses the ethical impact and implications of Data Science and its applications within a consistent, holistic, and inclusive framework. Only as a macroethics Data Ethics will provide the solutions that can maximise the value of Data Science for our societies, for all of us, and for our environments.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":51111581,"asset_id":30234860,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":6616,"first_name":"Luciano","last_name":"Floridi","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"LucianoFloridi","display_name":"Luciano Floridi","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/6616/2546/117746817/s65_luciano.floridi.jpg"},{"id":268636,"first_name":"Mariarosaria","last_name":"Taddeo","domain_name":"oxford","page_name":"MariaTadeo","display_name":"Mariarosaria Taddeo","profile_url":"https://oxford.academia.edu/MariaTadeo?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/268636/531077/17072682/s65_mariarosaria.taddeo.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":46,"name":"Business 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The work is positioned between the developed world business model extremes of overproduction, and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_441153" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The primary aim of this practice based project is to promote debate and alter perceptions of second-hand materials and ReFashion concepts. The work is positioned between the developed world business model extremes of overproduction, and over-consumption, in clothing manufacture. <br />Practical work which represents 80% of this thesis, pitches discarded clothing as an untapped commodity. The investigation poses questions and possibilities with respect to applying the ReFashion concept to a potential business model. By developing prototypes through deconstruction and reconstruction processes, reflection upon current practices of the secondary textile industry has been possible, highlighting ReFashion as a potential ‘Materials Recovery’ process. <br />The second outcome for the research is to provide contextualised information for the fashion manufacturing industry and government agencies, in order to develop innovative applications for new markets.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/441153" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="7ce23e126b97030edf3ed54307630cee" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":1990316,"asset_id":441153,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/1990316/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="303751" href="https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser">Kim Fraser</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="303751" type="text/json">{"id":303751,"first_name":"Kim","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"aut","page_name":"KimFraser","display_name":"Kim Fraser","profile_url":"https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/303751/92257/101385/s65_kim.fraser.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_441153 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="441153"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 441153, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_441153", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=441153]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_441153").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_441153").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="441153"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability">Fashion ethics and sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8188" type="text/json">{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="14085" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Waste_Management">Waste Management</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="14085" type="text/json">{"id":14085,"name":"Waste Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Waste_Management?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="17578" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability">Fashion and sustainability</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="17578" type="text/json">{"id":17578,"name":"Fashion and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=441153]'), work: {"id":441153,"title":"ReDress-ReFashion As a Solution for Clothing (Un) Sustainability","created_at":"2011-02-13T05:10:18.877-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/441153/ReDress_ReFashion_As_a_Solution_for_Clothing_Un_Sustainability?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_441153","summary":"The primary aim of this practice based project is to promote debate and alter perceptions of second-hand materials and ReFashion concepts. 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By developing prototypes through deconstruction and reconstruction processes, reflection upon current practices of the secondary textile industry has been possible, highlighting ReFashion as a potential ‘Materials Recovery’ process.\r\nThe second outcome for the research is to provide contextualised information for the fashion manufacturing industry and government agencies, in order to develop innovative applications for new markets.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":1990316,"asset_id":441153,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":303751,"first_name":"Kim","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"aut","page_name":"KimFraser","display_name":"Kim Fraser","profile_url":"https://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/303751/92257/101385/s65_kim.fraser.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":14085,"name":"Waste Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Waste_Management?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":17578,"name":"Fashion and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":18845,"name":"Environmental Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Environmental_Sustainability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":24061,"name":"Sustainable Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Design?f_ri=10272"},{"id":44785,"name":"Multidisciplinary design practices","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Multidisciplinary_design_practices?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_44582997" data-work_id="44582997" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/44582997/Developing_Fashion_Embellishment_Decorative_Alternatives_to_Fur_and_Exotic_Animal_Materials">Developing Fashion Embellishment: Decorative Alternatives to Fur and Exotic Animal Materials</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">While the use of animal materials in contemporary fashion was fervently debated during the period of this research study, fur and exotic animal materials (such as feathers and reptile skins) remained appealing resources in the creation of... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_44582997" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">While the use of animal materials in contemporary fashion was fervently debated during the period of this research study, fur and exotic animal materials (such as feathers and reptile skins) remained appealing resources in the creation of fashion embellishment.The researcher’s prior experience working for fashion brands which incorporated fur and<br />exotic animal materials was that existing imitations did not encompass the decorative qualities and appeals associated with high fashion. Embellishment alternatives to fur and exotic animal materials had not previously been documented through research.<br /><br />Applying the researcher’s skills and tacit knowledge as a fashion textile designer, the aim of this practice research was to develop non-animal textile embellishment alternatives to fur and exotic animal materials. This was achieved by determining the design appeals of fur and exotic animal materials as decorative embellishment, and through the implementation of an unusual range of materials and experimental textile embellishment processes to create samples and artefacts. The researcher articulates embellishment as being hand manipulated textiles and additive elements with the broad aim of decoration.<br /><br />An inductive, reflective practice technique was implemented in order to gain new knowledge through the successes and failures of alternative textile embellishment sampling. The practice was informed through historic archival research and engagement with industries associated with the contemporary use of fur and exotic animal materials. Furthermore, through discovering inspiring exotic animal species in the Amazon Rainforest which further informed practice developments, and by creating artefacts which were disseminated in exhibitions, including the ‘Fashioned from Nature’ exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum (2018-2019). As part of research dissemination, a practical workshop with students from London College of Fashion was also created which<br />inspired reflections on future embellishment in view of the appeals of fur and exotic animal materials.<br /><br />This thesis contributes to knowledge through the development of two novel embellishment techniques developed and documented by the researcher: ‘Adapted wig making with embroidery’ and ‘threading rubber.’ In addition, this research maps values relating to the designer appeals of fur and exotic animal materials, an area the researcher evidences as being under explored. This research therefore leads primarily to new<br />understandings about approaches to textile embellishment practice, and aims to inspire fashion and textile design practitioners to consider the use of creative alternatives to animal materials. For academics and industry, the value lies in further developing fashion textile design research methods and the challenges of emergent issues in contemporary society. The final presentation is a written and illustrated thesis with embellishment samples, determining a range of alternative materials and textile embellishment processes.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/44582997" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="8713aa7064a9ab59b0a809c9a91b8e71" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":65040246,"asset_id":44582997,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/65040246/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="39281301" href="https://lamp.academia.edu/NaomiBaileyCooper">Naomi Bailey-Cooper</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="39281301" type="text/json">{"id":39281301,"first_name":"Naomi","last_name":"Bailey-Cooper","domain_name":"lamp","page_name":"NaomiBaileyCooper","display_name":"Naomi Bailey-Cooper","profile_url":"https://lamp.academia.edu/NaomiBaileyCooper?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/39281301/13175920/34752930/s65_naomi.bailey-cooper.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_44582997 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="44582997"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 44582997, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_44582997", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=44582997]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_44582997").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_44582997").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="44582997"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="202024" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fur_Trade">Fur Trade</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="202024" type="text/json">{"id":202024,"name":"Fur Trade","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fur_Trade?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=44582997]'), work: {"id":44582997,"title":"Developing Fashion Embellishment: Decorative Alternatives to Fur and Exotic Animal Materials","created_at":"2020-11-26T10:49:54.353-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/44582997/Developing_Fashion_Embellishment_Decorative_Alternatives_to_Fur_and_Exotic_Animal_Materials?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_44582997","summary":"While the use of animal materials in contemporary fashion was fervently debated during the period of this research study, fur and exotic animal materials (such as feathers and reptile skins) remained appealing resources in the creation of fashion embellishment.The researcher’s prior experience working for fashion brands which incorporated fur and\nexotic animal materials was that existing imitations did not encompass the decorative qualities and appeals associated with high fashion. Embellishment alternatives to fur and exotic animal materials had not previously been documented through research.\n\nApplying the researcher’s skills and tacit knowledge as a fashion textile designer, the aim of this practice research was to develop non-animal textile embellishment alternatives to fur and exotic animal materials. This was achieved by determining the design appeals of fur and exotic animal materials as decorative embellishment, and through the implementation of an unusual range of materials and experimental textile embellishment processes to create samples and artefacts. The researcher articulates embellishment as being hand manipulated textiles and additive elements with the broad aim of decoration.\n\nAn inductive, reflective practice technique was implemented in order to gain new knowledge through the successes and failures of alternative textile embellishment sampling. The practice was informed through historic archival research and engagement with industries associated with the contemporary use of fur and exotic animal materials. Furthermore, through discovering inspiring exotic animal species in the Amazon Rainforest which further informed practice developments, and by creating artefacts which were disseminated in exhibitions, including the ‘Fashioned from Nature’ exhibition at the Victoria \u0026 Albert Museum (2018-2019). As part of research dissemination, a practical workshop with students from London College of Fashion was also created which\ninspired reflections on future embellishment in view of the appeals of fur and exotic animal materials.\n\nThis thesis contributes to knowledge through the development of two novel embellishment techniques developed and documented by the researcher: ‘Adapted wig making with embroidery’ and ‘threading rubber.’ In addition, this research maps values relating to the designer appeals of fur and exotic animal materials, an area the researcher evidences as being under explored. This research therefore leads primarily to new\nunderstandings about approaches to textile embellishment practice, and aims to inspire fashion and textile design practitioners to consider the use of creative alternatives to animal materials. For academics and industry, the value lies in further developing fashion textile design research methods and the challenges of emergent issues in contemporary society. The final presentation is a written and illustrated thesis with embellishment samples, determining a range of alternative materials and textile embellishment processes.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":65040246,"asset_id":44582997,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":39281301,"first_name":"Naomi","last_name":"Bailey-Cooper","domain_name":"lamp","page_name":"NaomiBaileyCooper","display_name":"Naomi Bailey-Cooper","profile_url":"https://lamp.academia.edu/NaomiBaileyCooper?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/39281301/13175920/34752930/s65_naomi.bailey-cooper.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":202024,"name":"Fur Trade","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fur_Trade?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":430462,"name":"Feathers","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feathers?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1345326,"name":"Embellishment","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Embellishment?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_42972082" data-work_id="42972082" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/42972082/SECOND_HAND_CLOTHINGS_VALUE_IN_HONG_KONG">SECOND-HAND CLOTHINGS' 'VALUE' IN HONG KONG</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">A Bachelor of Arts's thesis - general research about fashion sustainability and the concept of 'second-hand' in aspects of both environmental interaction and cultural implication concerning the identity of Hongkongnese and its history.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/42972082" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="eca270f6a2459f87a45c2601697a45b9" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63230490,"asset_id":42972082,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63230490/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="7983836" href="https://arts-london.academia.edu/kazlam">kaz lam</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="7983836" type="text/json">{"id":7983836,"first_name":"kaz","last_name":"lam","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"kazlam","display_name":"kaz lam","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/kazlam?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_42972082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="42972082"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 42972082, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_42972082", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_42972082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42972082; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_42972082"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_42972082 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="42972082"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42972082; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=42972082]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_42972082").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_42972082").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="42972082"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">16</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5645" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Recycling">Recycling</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5645" type="text/json">{"id":5645,"name":"Recycling","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Recycling?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability">Fashion ethics and sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8188" type="text/json">{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="17578" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability">Fashion and sustainability</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="17578" type="text/json">{"id":17578,"name":"Fashion and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=42972082]'), work: {"id":42972082,"title":"SECOND-HAND CLOTHINGS' 'VALUE' IN HONG KONG","created_at":"2020-05-07T09:45:19.346-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/42972082/SECOND_HAND_CLOTHINGS_VALUE_IN_HONG_KONG?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_42972082","summary":"A Bachelor of Arts's thesis - general research about fashion sustainability and the concept of 'second-hand' in aspects of both environmental interaction and cultural implication concerning the identity of Hongkongnese and its history. \n\n\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63230490,"asset_id":42972082,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":7983836,"first_name":"kaz","last_name":"lam","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"kazlam","display_name":"kaz 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Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Slow_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":111115,"name":"Second-hand markets/items","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Second-hand_markets_items?f_ri=10272"},{"id":124263,"name":"Upcycling","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Upcycling?f_ri=10272"},{"id":177350,"name":"Reuse","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Reuse?f_ri=10272"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":187012,"name":"Sustainable design, upcycling, cradle-to-cradle","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_design_upcycling_cradle-to-cradle?f_ri=10272"},{"id":189804,"name":"Fast Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fast_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":204202,"name":"Hong Kong identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hong_Kong_identity?f_ri=10272"},{"id":218134,"name":"Social idenity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_idenity?f_ri=10272"},{"id":536718,"name":"used or second-hand clothing or RTW","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/used_or_second-hand_clothing_or_RTW?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_16254115" data-work_id="16254115" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/16254115/Tejiendo_una_moda_sostenible">Tejiendo una moda sostenible</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Este trabajo trata sobre la situación actual de la industria de la moda, insostenible desde un punto de vista medioambiental y socioeconómico y detecta diversas alternativas que trabajan por una moda sostenible, que, lejos de devaluar la... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_16254115" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Este trabajo trata sobre la situación actual de la industria de la moda, insostenible desde un punto de vista medioambiental y socioeconómico y detecta diversas alternativas que trabajan por una moda sostenible, que, lejos de devaluar la industria de la moda, la enriquece y la posiciona en un marco más positivo y contemporáneo.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/16254115" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span 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class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_6331455" data-work_id="6331455" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/6331455/HaraQueen_Donna_Haraway_Alexander_McQueen_and_Critical_Psychology">HaraQueen: Donna Haraway, Alexander McQueen, and Critical Psychology</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The professional projects of Donna Haraway, a third-wave feminist, and Alexander McQueen, an avant-garde fashion designer, show remarkable convergence in their appropriative, purposeful blurring of the distinction between the natural and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_6331455" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The professional projects of Donna Haraway, a third-wave feminist, and Alexander McQueen, an avant-garde fashion designer, show remarkable convergence in their appropriative, purposeful blurring of the distinction between the natural and technological thereby disclosing what constitutes truth for both figures; namely, to be duped. The title of this presentation, HaraQueen, is a portmanteau of their last names that points precisely to this fact. HaraQueen is also a type of homophone - horror queen - that holds in concert the contradistinctive semantics of these two words: horror meaning an affection of disgust, revulsion, and dread, and queen meaning the status of divine right, potentate, and sovereign; not under the sign of the same, but in all their distinctive g(l)ory such that difference is honored. The aesthetic of McQueen exemplifies the ability, through his fashions, to recode the body in such a way as to upend what might be considered natural or beautiful. This commentary on the herd mentality of beauty - the patriarchal objectification of the female body as sex object - exposes the body as up for grabs, as a site of disputation. Coupled with his love of nature, this makes for an ironic paradox that punctures the dialectic, natural-technical, rendering it leaky and, yet, preserves the two dichotomies as indissoluble. Concomitantly, Haraway is committed to an analogous trickster methodology. As a trained biologist, her professional scholarship is infused with articulating a primordial being-with-others (e.g., technology, animals, humans, etc.) that comes from studying the radical anti-anthropomorphism of biological discourse. Most famously, she initiated cyborg studies as a way to envision a non-instrumentalist relationship with technologies as well as to inhibit said technologies critically. The site at which the confluence between Haraway and McQueen reaches its climax is in McQueen’s spring / summer 2001 show VOSS. This particular fashion show captures the sine qua non of both of their methodologies: the duping of the hegemonic other. What is so clever about VOSS is that the elephant in the room had been there the whole time but nobody knew there was an elephant - the elephant only came into being once the duping had occurred. Such a reveal generates an affective aesthetic by walking the razor's edge of camp and couture, being at once monstrous and enchanting; slip and the position either falls into either extreme otherness or reifies current norms. The audience members at VOSS were left with a feeling of being unnerved and unsettled, of not-being-at-home. The interface between Haraway and McQueen has implications for various strands of critical psychology. Although critical studies in psychology have tended to ally with social constructionism and reject any kind of foundational realism, the interface between Haraway and McQueen builds a bridge over the abyss between these two antinomies. This reading of VOSS demonstrates that trickster strategies can flank the iron curtain of metonymy and breach it through artifice: claims can be made about the world even if given indirectly through wit, humor, or irony.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/6331455" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f9d23bec39a0f2d3a523df754fd25026" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":33162606,"asset_id":6331455,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/33162606/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2715629" href="https://westga.academia.edu/JacobGlazier">Jacob W Glazier</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2715629" type="text/json">{"id":2715629,"first_name":"Jacob","last_name":"Glazier","domain_name":"westga","page_name":"JacobGlazier","display_name":"Jacob W Glazier","profile_url":"https://westga.academia.edu/JacobGlazier?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2715629/873923/35972702/s65_jacob.glazier.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_6331455 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="6331455"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 6331455, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_6331455", }); 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namely, to be duped. The title of this presentation, HaraQueen, is a portmanteau of their last names that points precisely to this fact. HaraQueen is also a type of homophone - horror queen - that holds in concert the contradistinctive semantics of these two words: horror meaning an affection of disgust, revulsion, and dread, and queen meaning the status of divine right, potentate, and sovereign; not under the sign of the same, but in all their distinctive g(l)ory such that difference is honored. The aesthetic of McQueen exemplifies the ability, through his fashions, to recode the body in such a way as to upend what might be considered natural or beautiful. This commentary on the herd mentality of beauty - the patriarchal objectification of the female body as sex object - exposes the body as up for grabs, as a site of disputation. Coupled with his love of nature, this makes for an ironic paradox that punctures the dialectic, natural-technical, rendering it leaky and, yet, preserves the two dichotomies as indissoluble. Concomitantly, Haraway is committed to an analogous trickster methodology. As a trained biologist, her professional scholarship is infused with articulating a primordial being-with-others (e.g., technology, animals, humans, etc.) that comes from studying the radical anti-anthropomorphism of biological discourse. Most famously, she initiated cyborg studies as a way to envision a non-instrumentalist relationship with technologies as well as to inhibit said technologies critically. The site at which the confluence between Haraway and McQueen reaches its climax is in McQueen’s spring / summer 2001 show VOSS. This particular fashion show captures the sine qua non of both of their methodologies: the duping of the hegemonic other. What is so clever about VOSS is that the elephant in the room had been there the whole time but nobody knew there was an elephant - the elephant only came into being once the duping had occurred. Such a reveal generates an affective aesthetic by walking the razor's edge of camp and couture, being at once monstrous and enchanting; slip and the position either falls into either extreme otherness or reifies current norms. The audience members at VOSS were left with a feeling of being unnerved and unsettled, of not-being-at-home. The interface between Haraway and McQueen has implications for various strands of critical psychology. Although critical studies in psychology have tended to ally with social constructionism and reject any kind of foundational realism, the interface between Haraway and McQueen builds a bridge over the abyss between these two antinomies. This reading of VOSS demonstrates that trickster strategies can flank the iron curtain of metonymy and breach it through artifice: claims can be made about the world even if given indirectly through wit, humor, or irony. 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u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">RESUMO: Atualmente, pessoas e comunidades estão transformando suas vidas através de soluções criativas: são as inovações sociais. Nessa perspectiva, o campo do design torna-se significativo devido à sua atribuição para melhoria da... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_7482528" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">RESUMO: Atualmente, pessoas e comunidades estão transformando suas vidas através de soluções criativas: são as inovações sociais. Nessa perspectiva, o campo do design torna-se significativo devido à sua atribuição para melhoria da qualidade de vida e promoção do bem-estar. Mas, é preciso mudar comportamentos e padrões em relação ao consumo, respeitar os limites ambientais, compartilhar conhecimentos e valorizar o convívio. Diante disso, o design pode se tornar um mediador de mudanças através dos modos diferentes de se fazer moda e deslocar o foco estrito nos produtos para uma maior atenção aos processos criativos e em experiências em contextos não convencionais. Assim, serão expostos casos inovadores e discutidas a amplitude social da moda, as teorias sobre padrões culturais estabelecidos e as relações entre identidade, moda e consumo. Também serão descritas propostas baseadas na ética e na justiça que estabelecem um elo de princípios integradores de contextos sociais. Palavras-chave: Soluções criativas, inovações sociais, design, mediador de mudanças, experiências, ética.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/7482528" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3cec6909a7ce3239fe163ce4e7533401" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":34055440,"asset_id":7482528,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/34055440/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="8019454" href="https://ufrrj.academia.edu/LilyanBerlim">Lilyan Berlim</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="8019454" type="text/json">{"id":8019454,"first_name":"Lilyan","last_name":"Berlim","domain_name":"ufrrj","page_name":"LilyanBerlim","display_name":"Lilyan Berlim","profile_url":"https://ufrrj.academia.edu/LilyanBerlim?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8019454/2799187/3264154/s65_lilyan.berlim.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_7482528 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="7482528"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 7482528, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_7482528", }); 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Palavras-chave: Soluções criativas, inovações sociais, design, mediador de mudanças, experiências, ética.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":34055440,"asset_id":7482528,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":8019454,"first_name":"Lilyan","last_name":"Berlim","domain_name":"ufrrj","page_name":"LilyanBerlim","display_name":"Lilyan Berlim","profile_url":"https://ufrrj.academia.edu/LilyanBerlim?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8019454/2799187/3264154/s65_lilyan.berlim.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":273941,"name":"Sustanability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustanability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_12645425" data-work_id="12645425" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/12645425/Research_Proposal_for_Designer_Wear_for_an_Identity_Counscious_Market">Research Proposal for Designer Wear for an Identity Counscious Market</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Since research shows Sri Lanka is an easily adaptable and easily merges in with different cultures all around the world. My study will protect some of the key elements of our tradition and its attire and also the study will create... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_12645425" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Since research shows Sri Lanka is an easily adaptable and easily merges in with different cultures all around the world. My study will protect some of the key elements of our tradition and its attire and also the study will create awareness and will allow a National and International out-reach in promulgating a Sri Lankan identity which will safeguard our heritage. <br />This important as it will help keep an anchor to generations ahead to be aware of our heritage and its elements and wear it in such manner that will show our identity without being too traditional. Therefore the importance of the study is to hold on to our heritage whilst moving along with the current trends.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/12645425" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="059b0adeb571370e3ecd385e4df71591" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37760112,"asset_id":12645425,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37760112/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="31628163" href="https://independent.academia.edu/UdaraPeiris">Udara Peiris</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="31628163" type="text/json">{"id":31628163,"first_name":"Udara","last_name":"Peiris","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"UdaraPeiris","display_name":"Udara Peiris","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/UdaraPeiris?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://gravatar.com/avatar/422314e123a76ea23e9594dff4537c68?s=65"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_12645425 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="12645425"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 12645425, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_12645425", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=12645425]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_12645425").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_12645425").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="12645425"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">25</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="39" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing">Marketing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="39" type="text/json">{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2132" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage">Cultural Heritage</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2132" type="text/json">{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3078" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics_and_Social_Sustainability">Ethics & Social Sustainability</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="3078" type="text/json">{"id":3078,"name":"Ethics \u0026 Social Sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics_and_Social_Sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=12645425]'), work: {"id":12645425,"title":"Research Proposal for Designer Wear for an Identity Counscious Market","created_at":"2015-05-28T04:31:41.409-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/12645425/Research_Proposal_for_Designer_Wear_for_an_Identity_Counscious_Market?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_12645425","summary":"Since research shows Sri Lanka is an easily adaptable and easily merges in with different cultures all around the world. My study will protect some of the key elements of our tradition and its attire and also the study will create awareness and will allow a National and International out-reach in promulgating a Sri Lankan identity which will safeguard our heritage. \nThis important as it will help keep an anchor to generations ahead to be aware of our heritage and its elements and wear it in such manner that will show our identity without being too traditional. Therefore the importance of the study is to hold on to our heritage whilst moving along with the current trends.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37760112,"asset_id":12645425,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":31628163,"first_name":"Udara","last_name":"Peiris","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"UdaraPeiris","display_name":"Udara Peiris","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/UdaraPeiris?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://gravatar.com/avatar/422314e123a76ea23e9594dff4537c68?s=65"}],"research_interests":[{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":3078,"name":"Ethics \u0026 Social 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Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272"},{"id":53298,"name":"Fashion Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Marketing?f_ri=10272"},{"id":53299,"name":"Fashion Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Management?f_ri=10272"},{"id":61262,"name":"Trends and issues in global fashion/ apparel industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Trends_and_issues_in_global_fashion_apparel_industry?f_ri=10272"},{"id":79411,"name":"TRENDS","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/TRENDS?f_ri=10272"},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=10272"},{"id":156118,"name":"Contemporary Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Contemporary_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":156119,"name":"Global Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":259733,"name":"Sri Lankan history","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sri_Lankan_history?f_ri=10272"},{"id":302789,"name":"Sustainablility","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainablility?f_ri=10272"},{"id":588198,"name":"Advertising and Branding","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Advertising_and_Branding?f_ri=10272"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40252959" data-work_id="40252959" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40252959/Changes_In_Fashion_Communication">Changes In Fashion Communication</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The text follows the task set by this conference to observe “how communication practices impact today upon fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values”. A product is “anything that can be offered to the market... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40252959" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The text follows the task set by this conference to observe “how communication practices impact today upon fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values”. A product is “anything that can be offered to the market with the objective of satisfying a consumer’s need” and everything s/he receives in an exchange with a retailer. This includes not only physical goods, but also a growing amount of immaterial products, such as experiences, causes, spiritual values and many others (described in this text). The effective offer of the fashion industry shows nevertheless a very low use of these highly requested immaterial goods. This contribution analyses, for some immaterial goods, the areas which are today generating them, especially the products grown from Street Styles, from cultural policies such as City Making and from ethical efforts, such as Eco Fashion. The conclusion shows that change happens, when a re-combination of old traditions and new behaviours, generate new products and communication. The value lies today in the immateriality of the products, powered by the emotional interaction of people. The rise of immaterial products and of a new fashion communication is therefore more that the invention of a new commercial item or advertising campaign. It is an evolution of mentality which documents the existence of ideas, values, ethical concepts, creativity and human dialogue behind the new products</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40252959" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="7cfe1b750e7fb71e12f54751312c77a0" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60486590,"asset_id":40252959,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60486590/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="34313904" href="https://independent.academia.edu/CeciliaWinterhalter">Cecilia Winterhalter</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="34313904" type="text/json">{"id":34313904,"first_name":"Cecilia","last_name":"Winterhalter","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"CeciliaWinterhalter","display_name":"Cecilia Winterhalter","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/CeciliaWinterhalter?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34313904/10322979/11708675/s65_cecilia.winterhalter.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40252959 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40252959"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40252959, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40252959", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40252959]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40252959").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40252959").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40252959"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="859" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication">Communication</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="859" type="text/json">{"id":859,"name":"Communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="103988" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Street_style">Street style</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="103988" type="text/json">{"id":103988,"name":"Street style","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Street_style?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1509437" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_communication">Fashion communication</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1509437" type="text/json">{"id":1509437,"name":"Fashion communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_communication?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40252959]'), work: {"id":40252959,"title":"Changes In Fashion Communication","created_at":"2019-09-04T08:54:06.579-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40252959/Changes_In_Fashion_Communication?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_40252959","summary":"The text follows the task set by this conference to observe “how communication practices impact today upon fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values”.\u2028A product is “anything that can be offered to the market with the objective of satisfying a consumer’s need” and everything s/he receives in an exchange with a retailer. This includes not only physical goods, but also a growing amount of immaterial products, such as experiences, causes, spiritual values and many others (described in this text). The effective offer of the fashion industry shows nevertheless a very low use of these highly requested immaterial goods. This contribution analyses, for some immaterial goods, the areas which are today generating them, especially the products grown from Street Styles, from cultural policies such as City Making and from ethical efforts, such as Eco Fashion. The conclusion shows that change happens, when a re-combination of old traditions and new behaviours, generate new products and communication. The value lies today in the immateriality of the products, powered by the emotional interaction of people. The rise of immaterial products and of a new fashion communication is therefore more that the invention of a new commercial item or advertising campaign. It is an evolution of mentality which documents the existence of ideas, values, ethical concepts, creativity and human dialogue behind the new products","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60486590,"asset_id":40252959,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":34313904,"first_name":"Cecilia","last_name":"Winterhalter","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"CeciliaWinterhalter","display_name":"Cecilia Winterhalter","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/CeciliaWinterhalter?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34313904/10322979/11708675/s65_cecilia.winterhalter.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":859,"name":"Communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":103988,"name":"Street style","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Street_style?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1509437,"name":"Fashion communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_communication?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":3198934,"name":"city making","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/city_making?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40634478" data-work_id="40634478" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40634478/Cultural_Studies_Be_creative_in_Bangladesh_Mobility_empowerment_and_precarity_in_ethical_fashion_enterprise">Cultural Studies 'Be creative' in Bangladesh? Mobility, empowerment and precarity in ethical fashion enterprise</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The rise of creative, ethical entrepreneurship within the global garment industry promises new kinds of empowerment and mobility for Asian workers. 'Ethical fashion' brings alternative ways of valuing cultural commodities by imagining... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40634478" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The rise of creative, ethical entrepreneurship within the global garment industry promises new kinds of empowerment and mobility for Asian workers. 'Ethical fashion' brings alternative ways of valuing cultural commodities by imagining South Asian textile workers as potentially creative, entrepreneurial, and empowered. However, ethical fashion enterprise also brings particular forms of instability and risk. Through an analysis of two ethical fashion brands in Bangladesh -Aarong and Bhalothis article demonstrates the disconnect between an idealized discourse of empowerment, and the material conditions of precarity and immobility that characterize fashion enterprise, especially in its 'ethical' forms. The apparent mobility of notions of ethics and empowerment championed by ethical fashion brands are shadowed by the 'predatory mobility' of global capital. While transnational flows of capital, creativity and ethics can bring about productive connections and exchange between designers, workers, and consumers in and around Asia, these take place in a context of ongoing economic insecurity.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40634478" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="ed6d2fc1e67e1ebd1e3c43803ae38824" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60915287,"asset_id":40634478,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60915287/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="33294489" href="https://unimelb.academia.edu/RKhan">Rimi Khan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="33294489" type="text/json">{"id":33294489,"first_name":"Rimi","last_name":"Khan","domain_name":"unimelb","page_name":"RKhan","display_name":"Rimi Khan","profile_url":"https://unimelb.academia.edu/RKhan?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40634478 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40634478"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40634478, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40634478", }); 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Through an analysis of two ethical fashion brands in Bangladesh -Aarong and Bhalothis article demonstrates the disconnect between an idealized discourse of empowerment, and the material conditions of precarity and immobility that characterize fashion enterprise, especially in its 'ethical' forms. The apparent mobility of notions of ethics and empowerment championed by ethical fashion brands are shadowed by the 'predatory mobility' of global capital. 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Case studies and selected readings","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/business_ethics._Case_studies_and_selected_readings?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1019499,"name":"Ethics of Humanitarian Intervention","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics_of_Humanitarian_Intervention?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1030524,"name":"Ethics and Corporate Social Responsability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethics_and_Corporate_Social_Responsability?f_ri=10272"},{"id":1275799,"name":"Explain the background and development of theoretical ethical approaches in business","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Explain_the_background_and_development_of_theoretical_ethical_approaches_in_business?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_28098826 coauthored" data-work_id="28098826" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/28098826/The_ethics_of_information_transparency">The ethics of information transparency</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The paper investigates the ethics of information transparency (henceforth transparency). It argues that transparency is not an ethical principle in itself but a pro-ethical condition for enabling or impairing other ethical practices or... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_28098826" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The paper investigates the ethics of information transparency (henceforth transparency). It argues that transparency is not an ethical principle in itself but a pro-ethical condition for enabling or impairing other ethical practices or principles. A new definition of transparency is offered in order to take into account the dynamics of information production and the differences between data and information. It is then argued that the proposed definition provides a better understanding of what sort of information should be disclosed and what sort of information should be used in order to implement and make effective the ethical practices and principles to which an organisation is committed. The concepts of ''heterogeneous organisation'' and ''autonomous computational artefact'' are further defined in order to clarify the ethical implications of the technology used in implementing information transparency. It is argued that explicit ethical designs, which describe how ethical principles are embedded into the practice of software design, would represent valuable information that could be disclosed by organisations in order to support their ethical standing.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/28098826" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="a1aa48ed5e17acebd1463226e620e5e0" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":48413334,"asset_id":28098826,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/48413334/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="214712" href="https://rutgers.academia.edu/MatteoTurilli">Matteo Turilli</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="214712" type="text/json">{"id":214712,"first_name":"Matteo","last_name":"Turilli","domain_name":"rutgers","page_name":"MatteoTurilli","display_name":"Matteo Turilli","profile_url":"https://rutgers.academia.edu/MatteoTurilli?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/214712/979906/1226331/s65_matteo.turilli.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-28098826">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-28098826"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi">Luciano Floridi</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-28098826'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-28098826').html(); 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It argues that transparency is not an ethical principle in itself but a pro-ethical condition for enabling or impairing other ethical practices or principles. A new definition of transparency is offered in order to take into account the dynamics of information production and the differences between data and information. It is then argued that the proposed definition provides a better understanding of what sort of information should be disclosed and what sort of information should be used in order to implement and make effective the ethical practices and principles to which an organisation is committed. The concepts of ''heterogeneous organisation'' and ''autonomous computational artefact'' are further defined in order to clarify the ethical implications of the technology used in implementing information transparency. 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investigación del programa profesional de diseño de modas de la ECCI A DIRECTORA PROYECTO:</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/6558995" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="82375e6e0752a8ac796e5dc45027571b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":33319330,"asset_id":6558995,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/33319330/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="10527892" href="https://independent.academia.edu/marcelasandu">Mónica Marcela Sanchez Duarte</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="10527892" type="text/json">{"id":10527892,"first_name":"Mónica Marcela","last_name":"Sanchez Duarte","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"marcelasandu","display_name":"Mónica Marcela Sanchez Duarte","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/marcelasandu?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/10527892/3187825/29302455/s65_m_nica_marcela.sanchez_duarte.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_6558995 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="6558995"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 6558995, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_6558995", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_6558995 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 6558995; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container 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style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="6558995"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">2</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8188" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability">Fashion ethics and sustainability</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8188" type="text/json">{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=6558995]'), work: {"id":6558995,"title":"MODA ETICA","created_at":"2014-03-26T11:08:31.107-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/6558995/MODA_ETICA?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_6558995","summary":"Resultados del ejercicio desarrollado en el curso Proyecto de grado, sobre el tema de Moda ética, como primer acercamiento y soporte de la línea de investigación del programa profesional de diseño de modas de la ECCI A DIRECTORA PROYECTO:","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":33319330,"asset_id":6558995,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":10527892,"first_name":"Mónica Marcela","last_name":"Sanchez Duarte","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"marcelasandu","display_name":"Mónica Marcela Sanchez Duarte","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/marcelasandu?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/10527892/3187825/29302455/s65_m_nica_marcela.sanchez_duarte.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8188,"name":"Fashion ethics and sustainability","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_ethics_and_sustainability?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_6630176" data-work_id="6630176" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/6630176/R%C3%A9sum%C3%A9_de_la_th%C3%A8se_Le_commerce_%C3%A9quitable_%C3%A0_l%C3%A9preuve_de_la_mode_">Résumé de la thèse "Le commerce équitable à l'épreuve de la mode"</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Cette thèse étudie le rôle de la critique dans la construction sociale des marchés. Le commerce équitable, et plus précisément la mode éthique, sont analysés comme cas extrêmes d'incertitude morale pesant sur l'organisation des marchés.... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_6630176" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Cette thèse étudie le rôle de la critique dans la construction sociale des marchés. Le commerce équitable, et plus précisément la mode éthique, sont analysés comme cas extrêmes d'incertitude morale pesant sur l'organisation des marchés. Au travers d'une analyse qualitative de données secondaires, d'observations, d'entretiens et d'objets, cette recherche suit les acteurs dans les controverses qui performent le marché de la mode éthique. Inspirée par la sociologie pragmatique (Boltanski, Callon, Latour, etc.), elle éclaire les cadrages, recadrages et débordements qui solidifient ou, au contraire, déstabilisent les compromis portant sur la valeur des biens et sur les règles de l'échange. À l'origine, le cadre du vêtement équitable valorise l'artisanat, les conditions de production et les principes du commerce équitable. Puis, au début des années 2000, l'émergence de marques spécialisées contribue à recadrer le vêtement équitable en article de mode éthique. Enfin, à partir de la fin des années 2000, des marques de mode conventionnelle suscitent des controverses en se lançant, à leur tour, dans la mode éthique. Plus précisément, cette thèse décrit les activités et les stratégies, les discours et les dispositifs au travers desquels les participants au marché ont entrepris d'associer éthique et esthétique. Elle analyse, tout spécialement, le travail d'un professionnel chargé d'organiser le marché, l'Ethical Fashion Show, le salon de la mode éthique. Cette thèse vise trois contributions. D'abord, elle propose la notion d'entre-prise de marché pour décrire l'activité consistant à faire tenir dans un même cadre le marché et la critique. Les entre-preneurs du marché affrontent l'incertitude, connectent des réseaux et défendent un changement dans les règles morales du marché. Ensuite, elle éclaire la notion de performativité de l'économie en soulignant les multiples manières par lesquelles la critique ré-agence les marchés. Enfin, elle met en lumière les dimensions matérielles et spatiales de la construction sociale des marchés au travers de l'étude de dispositifs de qualification, de disqualification et d'emprise.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/6630176" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="d608df784cd388915e66957513ff43ab" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":33369132,"asset_id":6630176,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/33369132/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1957179" href="https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet">Vivien Blanchet</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1957179" type="text/json">{"id":1957179,"first_name":"Vivien","last_name":"Blanchet","domain_name":"em-lyon","page_name":"VivienBlanchet","display_name":"Vivien Blanchet","profile_url":"https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1957179/654513/5079112/s65_vivien.blanchet.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_6630176 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="6630176"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 6630176, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_6630176", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=6630176]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_6630176").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_6630176").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="6630176"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">2</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10272" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion">Ethical Fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10272" type="text/json">{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="235333" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable">Commerce équitable</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="235333" type="text/json">{"id":235333,"name":"Commerce équitable","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=6630176]'), work: {"id":6630176,"title":"Résumé de la thèse \"Le commerce équitable à l'épreuve de la mode\"","created_at":"2014-04-02T05:30:27.847-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/6630176/R%C3%A9sum%C3%A9_de_la_th%C3%A8se_Le_commerce_%C3%A9quitable_%C3%A0_l%C3%A9preuve_de_la_mode_?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_6630176","summary":"Cette thèse étudie le rôle de la critique dans la construction sociale des marchés. Le commerce équitable, et plus précisément la mode éthique, sont analysés comme cas extrêmes d'incertitude morale pesant sur l'organisation des marchés. Au travers d'une analyse qualitative de données secondaires, d'observations, d'entretiens et d'objets, cette recherche suit les acteurs dans les controverses qui performent le marché de la mode éthique. Inspirée par la sociologie pragmatique (Boltanski, Callon, Latour, etc.), elle éclaire les cadrages, recadrages et débordements qui solidifient ou, au contraire, déstabilisent les compromis portant sur la valeur des biens et sur les règles de l'échange. À l'origine, le cadre du vêtement équitable valorise l'artisanat, les conditions de production et les principes du commerce équitable. Puis, au début des années 2000, l'émergence de marques spécialisées contribue à recadrer le vêtement équitable en article de mode éthique. Enfin, à partir de la fin des années 2000, des marques de mode conventionnelle suscitent des controverses en se lançant, à leur tour, dans la mode éthique. Plus précisément, cette thèse décrit les activités et les stratégies, les discours et les dispositifs au travers desquels les participants au marché ont entrepris d'associer éthique et esthétique. Elle analyse, tout spécialement, le travail d'un professionnel chargé d'organiser le marché, l'Ethical Fashion Show, le salon de la mode éthique. Cette thèse vise trois contributions. D'abord, elle propose la notion d'entre-prise de marché pour décrire l'activité consistant à faire tenir dans un même cadre le marché et la critique. Les entre-preneurs du marché affrontent l'incertitude, connectent des réseaux et défendent un changement dans les règles morales du marché. Ensuite, elle éclaire la notion de performativité de l'économie en soulignant les multiples manières par lesquelles la critique ré-agence les marchés. Enfin, elle met en lumière les dimensions matérielles et spatiales de la construction sociale des marchés au travers de l'étude de dispositifs de qualification, de disqualification et d'emprise.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":33369132,"asset_id":6630176,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1957179,"first_name":"Vivien","last_name":"Blanchet","domain_name":"em-lyon","page_name":"VivienBlanchet","display_name":"Vivien Blanchet","profile_url":"https://em-lyon.academia.edu/VivienBlanchet?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1957179/654513/5079112/s65_vivien.blanchet.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":235333,"name":"Commerce équitable","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Commerce_%C3%A9quitable?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_42910707 coauthored" data-work_id="42910707" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/42910707/Selling_women_the_green_dream_the_paradox_of_feminism_and_sustainability_in_fashion_marketing">Selling women the green dream: the paradox of feminism and sustainability in fashion marketing</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This article explores the paradox of corporations using social and environmental justice concerns to market products that are themselves made in conditions of environmental and social injustice, most often in the Global South. The effects... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_42910707" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This article explores the paradox of corporations using social and environmental justice concerns to market products that are themselves made in conditions of environmental and social injustice, most often in the Global South. The effects of the fashion industry on people is two-pronged: 1) the unsafe and exploitative conditions under which many garment workers operate, and 2) the severe and harmful water and air pollution caused by fashion industry factories. There are thus contradictions inherent in the manner in which corporations, through their marketing, seek to foster feminism and environmentalism, whilst sourcing their garments from factories that operate in problematic ways. Using case studies of advertising campaigns from three Swedish companies, H&M, Monki and Gina Tricot, we conducted a discourse analysis to understand the messages to consumers as well as the image of the company that is portrayed. Through our political ecology analysis, we suggest that the promotion of feminism and environmentalism is not consistently applied by companies in their own practices and could at worst be labeled green and 'fem washing.' These approaches can also be deeply problematic when they lead to the exotification of others, and cultural appropriation. We further find that the marketing strategies in fashion serve not only to promote the sale of products but also have the effect of placing environmental responsibility onto individual consumers. Ultimately, fashion marketing serves to obfuscate ecologically unequal exchange and the true costs of fashion.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/42910707" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4baa9e6572d66d0d36b6c3160627cbd0" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63160120,"asset_id":42910707,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63160120/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="5274106" href="https://independent.academia.edu/VasnaRamasar">Vasna Ramasar</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="5274106" type="text/json">{"id":5274106,"first_name":"Vasna","last_name":"Ramasar","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"VasnaRamasar","display_name":"Vasna Ramasar","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/VasnaRamasar?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-42910707">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-42910707"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/MarikoTakedomiKarlsson">Mariko Takedomi Karlsson</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-42910707'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-42910707').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_42910707 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="42910707"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 42910707, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_42910707", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_42910707 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42910707; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_42910707"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_42910707 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="42910707"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42910707; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=42910707]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_42910707").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_42910707").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="42910707"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="39" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing">Marketing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="39" type="text/json">{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="696" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies">Gender Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="696" type="text/json">{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1582" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Production_and_Consumption">Sustainable Production and Consumption</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1582" type="text/json">{"id":1582,"name":"Sustainable Production and Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Production_and_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3637" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Advertising">Advertising</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="3637" type="text/json">{"id":3637,"name":"Advertising","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Advertising?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=42910707]'), work: {"id":42910707,"title":"Selling women the green dream: the paradox of feminism and sustainability in fashion marketing","created_at":"2020-05-01T06:00:50.419-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/42910707/Selling_women_the_green_dream_the_paradox_of_feminism_and_sustainability_in_fashion_marketing?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_42910707","summary":"This article explores the paradox of corporations using social and environmental justice concerns to market products that are themselves made in conditions of environmental and social injustice, most often in the Global South. The effects of the fashion industry on people is two-pronged: 1) the unsafe and exploitative conditions under which many garment workers operate, and 2) the severe and harmful water and air pollution caused by fashion industry factories. There are thus contradictions inherent in the manner in which corporations, through their marketing, seek to foster feminism and environmentalism, whilst sourcing their garments from factories that operate in problematic ways. Using case studies of advertising campaigns from three Swedish companies, H\u0026M, Monki and Gina Tricot, we conducted a discourse analysis to understand the messages to consumers as well as the image of the company that is portrayed. Through our political ecology analysis, we suggest that the promotion of feminism and environmentalism is not consistently applied by companies in their own practices and could at worst be labeled green and 'fem washing.' These approaches can also be deeply problematic when they lead to the exotification of others, and cultural appropriation. We further find that the marketing strategies in fashion serve not only to promote the sale of products but also have the effect of placing environmental responsibility onto individual consumers. Ultimately, fashion marketing serves to obfuscate ecologically unequal exchange and the true costs of fashion.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63160120,"asset_id":42910707,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":5274106,"first_name":"Vasna","last_name":"Ramasar","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"VasnaRamasar","display_name":"Vasna Ramasar","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/VasnaRamasar?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"},{"id":157311319,"first_name":"Mariko Takedomi","last_name":"Karlsson","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MarikoTakedomiKarlsson","display_name":"Mariko Takedomi Karlsson","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MarikoTakedomiKarlsson?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":1582,"name":"Sustainable Production and Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Production_and_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":3637,"name":"Advertising","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Advertising?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":904474,"name":"Ecologically Unequal Exchange","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ecologically_Unequal_Exchange?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_1055486 coauthored" data-work_id="1055486" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/1055486/Discursive_Confusion_over_Sustainable_Consumption_A_Discursive_Perspective_on_the_Perplexity_of_Marketplace_Knowledge">Discursive Confusion over Sustainable Consumption: A Discursive Perspective on the Perplexity of Marketplace Knowledge</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">"This paper works towards a discursive, practice-based perspective on explaining the “knowledge-to-action”–gap observed in the consumer policy–literature on sustainable consumption. Based on an empirical study that focuses on fashion and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_1055486" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">"This paper works towards a discursive, practice-based perspective on explaining the “knowledge-to-action”–gap observed in the consumer policy–literature on sustainable consumption. Based on an empirical study that focuses on fashion and clothing markets, the objective is to elaborate on the nature and implications of the discursive polyphony that consumers face when striving for more sustainable consumption practices. Overall, it is concluded that part of the gap can be attributed to the discursive confusion that arises from a simultaneous existence of multiple, continuously changing and partly clashing discourses of sustainable consumption as well as the associated discursive struggle that consumers need to deal with when trying to make sense of their roles and responsibilities in sustainable development.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/1055486" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="e5b8d8cd3cd102ef5345acf8ba83cd48" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":53059857,"asset_id":1055486,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/53059857/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="65529" href="https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/JohannaMoisander">Johanna Moisander</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="65529" type="text/json">{"id":65529,"first_name":"Johanna","last_name":"Moisander","domain_name":"aalto-fi","page_name":"JohannaMoisander","display_name":"Johanna Moisander","profile_url":"https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/JohannaMoisander?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/65529/18445/800258/s65_johanna.moisander.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-1055486">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-1055486"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/AnnuMarkkula">Annu Markkula</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-1055486'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-1055486').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_1055486 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="1055486"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 1055486, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_1055486", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_1055486 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 1055486; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_1055486"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_1055486 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="1055486"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 1055486; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=1055486]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_1055486").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_1055486").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="1055486"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="94" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Discourse_Analysis">Discourse Analysis</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="94" type="text/json">{"id":94,"name":"Discourse Analysis","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Discourse_Analysis?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="4524" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Development">Sustainable Development</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="4524" type="text/json">{"id":4524,"name":"Sustainable Development","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Development?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5274" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption">Ethical Consumption</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5274" type="text/json">{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5537" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Language_and_Power">Language and Power</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="5537" type="text/json">{"id":5537,"name":"Language and Power","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Language_and_Power?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=1055486]'), work: {"id":1055486,"title":"Discursive Confusion over Sustainable Consumption: A Discursive Perspective on the Perplexity of Marketplace Knowledge","created_at":"2011-10-31T19:03:44.601-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/1055486/Discursive_Confusion_over_Sustainable_Consumption_A_Discursive_Perspective_on_the_Perplexity_of_Marketplace_Knowledge?f_ri=10272","dom_id":"work_1055486","summary":"\"This paper works towards a discursive, practice-based perspective on explaining the “knowledge-to-action”–gap observed in the consumer policy–literature on sustainable consumption. Based on an empirical study that focuses on fashion and clothing markets, the objective is to elaborate on the nature and implications of the discursive polyphony that consumers face when striving for more sustainable consumption practices. Overall, it is concluded that part of the gap can be attributed to the discursive confusion that arises from a simultaneous existence of multiple, continuously changing and partly clashing discourses of sustainable consumption as well as the associated discursive struggle that consumers need to deal with when trying to make sense of their roles and responsibilities in sustainable development.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":53059857,"asset_id":1055486,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":65529,"first_name":"Johanna","last_name":"Moisander","domain_name":"aalto-fi","page_name":"JohannaMoisander","display_name":"Johanna Moisander","profile_url":"https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/JohannaMoisander?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/65529/18445/800258/s65_johanna.moisander.jpg"},{"id":43917931,"first_name":"Annu","last_name":"Markkula","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"AnnuMarkkula","display_name":"Annu Markkula","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/AnnuMarkkula?f_ri=10272","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":94,"name":"Discourse Analysis","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Discourse_Analysis?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":4524,"name":"Sustainable Development","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Development?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5274,"name":"Ethical Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Consumption?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":5537,"name":"Language and Power","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Language_and_Power?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":6325,"name":"Consumerism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumerism?f_ri=10272"},{"id":7842,"name":"Green Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Green_Marketing?f_ri=10272"},{"id":10272,"name":"Ethical Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ethical_Fashion?f_ri=10272"},{"id":17597,"name":"Consumer Culture Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Culture_Theory?f_ri=10272"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_37034112 coauthored" data-work_id="37034112" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/37034112/Key_Ethical_Challenges_in_the_European_Medical_Information_Framework">Key Ethical Challenges in the European Medical Information Framework</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The European Medical Information Framework (EMIF) project, funded through the IMI programme (Innovative Medicines Initiative Joint Undertaking under Grant Agreement No. 115372), has designed and implemented a federated platform to connect... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_37034112" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The European Medical Information Framework (EMIF) project, funded through the IMI programme (Innovative Medicines Initiative Joint Undertaking under Grant Agreement No. 115372), has designed and implemented a federated platform to connect health data from a variety of sources across Europe, to facilitate large scale clinical and life sciences research. It enables approved users to analyse securely multiple, diverse, data via a single portal, thereby mediating research opportunities across a large quantity of research data. EMIF developed a code of practice (ECoP) to ensure the privacy protection of data subjects, protect the interests of data sharing parties, comply with legislation and various organisational policies on data protection, uphold best practices in the protection of personal privacy and information governance, and eventually promote these best practices more widely. EMIF convened an Ethics Advisory Board (EAB), to provide feedback on its approach, platform, and the EcoP. The most important challenges the ECoP team faced were: how to define, control and monitor the purposes (kinds of research) for which fed-erated health data are used; the kinds of organisation that should be permitted to conduct permitted research; and how to monitor this. This manuscript explores those issues, offering the combined insights of the EAB and EMIF core ECoP team. For some issues, a consensus on how to approach them is proposed. For other issues, a singular approach may be premature but the challenges are summarised to help the community to debate the topic further. Arguably, the issues and their analyses have application beyond EMIF, to many research infrastructures connected to health data sources.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/37034112" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="d30656e101dd735d8765285ecec60d86" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":56984570,"asset_id":37034112,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/56984570/download_file?st=MTc0MDE1NDgzNSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="6616" href="https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi">Luciano Floridi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="6616" type="text/json">{"id":6616,"first_name":"Luciano","last_name":"Floridi","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"LucianoFloridi","display_name":"Luciano Floridi","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/6616/2546/117746817/s65_luciano.floridi.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-37034112">+2</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-37034112"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://tum-de.academia.edu/ChristophLuetge">Christoph Luetge</a></span></div><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/Vannieuwenhuyse">Bart Vannieuwenhuyse</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-37034112'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-37034112').html(); 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It enables approved users to analyse securely multiple, diverse, data via a single portal, thereby mediating research opportunities across a large quantity of research data. EMIF developed a code of practice (ECoP) to ensure the privacy protection of data subjects, protect the interests of data sharing parties, comply with legislation and various organisational policies on data protection, uphold best practices in the protection of personal privacy and information governance, and eventually promote these best practices more widely. EMIF convened an Ethics Advisory Board (EAB), to provide feedback on its approach, platform, and the EcoP. The most important challenges the ECoP team faced were: how to define, control and monitor the purposes (kinds of research) for which fed-erated health data are used; the kinds of organisation that should be permitted to conduct permitted research; and how to monitor this. This manuscript explores those issues, offering the combined insights of the EAB and EMIF core ECoP team. For some issues, a consensus on how to approach them is proposed. For other issues, a singular approach may be premature but the challenges are summarised to help the community to debate the topic further. Arguably, the issues and their analyses have application beyond EMIF, to many research infrastructures connected to health data sources.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":56984570,"asset_id":37034112,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":6616,"first_name":"Luciano","last_name":"Floridi","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"LucianoFloridi","display_name":"Luciano Floridi","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/LucianoFloridi?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/6616/2546/117746817/s65_luciano.floridi.jpg"},{"id":859928,"first_name":"Christoph","last_name":"Luetge","domain_name":"tum-de","page_name":"ChristophLuetge","display_name":"Christoph Luetge","profile_url":"https://tum-de.academia.edu/ChristophLuetge?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/859928/307285/30553826/s65_christoph.luetge.png"},{"id":87078588,"first_name":"Bart","last_name":"Vannieuwenhuyse","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"Vannieuwenhuyse","display_name":"Bart Vannieuwenhuyse","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/Vannieuwenhuyse?f_ri=10272","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/87078588/177372230/167437615/s65_bart.vannieuwenhuyse.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":46,"name":"Business Ethics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_Ethics?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":200,"name":"Medical Sociology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medical_Sociology?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":422,"name":"Computer Science","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Computer_Science?f_ri=10272","nofollow":true},{"id":471,"name":"Robotics (Computer 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