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<div class="header-main__container header-main__container--right" style="display:;">  </div></div></div></div>   </div></div> </div> <div id="page" class="nzz-page-transition" style="opacity:1;"> <div><div data-resor="false" class="article"><section data-vars-danzz-article="" data-nzz-tid="article" data-nzz-referrer="articleLink" data-nzz-article="true" class="container container--article layout--longformstandard adnz-infeed-placeholder"><div id="id-doc-1ekdr923g0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="header" data-vars-danzz-first-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="headline"><div class="headline__highlight"><div class="headline__inner headline__inner--highlight"> <h1 class="headline__title"> <span>«Mit einem Pferd ist man nie allein»</span></h1></div></div> <div class="headline__inner"><p class="headline__lead">Der französische Schriftsteller Gaspard Koenig reitet mit einer Stute von Bordeaux nach Rom – so, wie es vor über 400 Jahren der Philosoph Michel de Montaigne tat. Im Interview mit Claus Lochbihler erklärt er, wie es dazu kam und weshalb er jetzt nie wieder Tourist sein möchte.</p> <div class="progressbar__wrapper"><div class="progressbar"><div class="progressbar__line"><div class="progressbar__line--fill" style="transform:translateX(-100%);"></div></div></div></div> <div class="headline__meta"> <div class="metainfo metainfo--content"><span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Claus Lochbihler</span>    <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date"><time datetime="2020-10-16T03:30:00.000Z"> 16.10.2020, 05.30 Uhr </time> </span></div> <div class="headline__meta-extra"><div class="actionbar actionbar--header">   <div class="actionbar__item actionbar__item--print"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1v-7c0-.55.45-1 1-1h15c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v7c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H17" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M7 7.81V3.5c0-.55.45-1 1-1h8c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v4.31" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="2" d="M17 14v6.5c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H8c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1V14h10z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="3" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" d="M14.34 18.95l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7m4.68-2.47l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7M5.3 9.5h1"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Drucken</span></div></div> <div class="actionbar__item share" style="position:relative;"><div class="contextmenu-closed"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M13.73 17.7c0 .58.34.73.75.34l6.71-6.44c.41-.4.41-1.04 0-1.44l-6.71-6.44c-.41-.4-.75-.24-.75.34v3.25c-6.2 0-11.23 3.59-11.23 9.98 0 1.12.15 2.19.44 3.22 1.35-4.83 5.67-6.04 10.8-6.04v3.24z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Teilen</span></div></div>  <div data-nzz-tid="contextmenu-overlay" class="overlay--container"> </div></div> </div></div></div></div></div><figure id="id-doc-1ekjj5ada0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--fullwidth" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=1200&height=798&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.53%;"><img alt="Seit Ende Juni folgt Gaspard Koenig mit seinem Pferd Destinada den Spuren von Michel de Montaigne. Die Reise führt ihn über 2500 Kilometer quer durch Europa." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="6048" height="4024" src="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0" loading="eager" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=1120&height=747&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=2240&height=1493&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=976&height=651&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=1952&height=1301&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=736&height=491&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=1472&height=981&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=375&height=250&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description image-description--fullwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Seit Ende Juni folgt Gaspard Koenig mit seinem Pferd Destinada den Spuren von Michel de Montaigne. Die Reise führt ihn über 2500 Kilometer quer durch Europa.</h2> <div class="image-description__author"><span data-nzz-tid="image-description-author" class="image-description__author-single">Erol Gurian </span></div></div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98mq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question"><strong>Gaspard Koenig, früher schrieben Sie Reden für die französische Wirtschafts- und Finanzministerin Christine Lagarde. Heute reiten Sie auf einer Stute namens Destinada durch Europa. Warum?</strong></p><div id="id-doc-37a2f5d1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="barrier" is-new-line-child="true"><div id="paywall_container"></div> <div class="disabled-overlay"><div class="disabled-overlay--show--text"><h3>Optimieren Sie Ihre Browsereinstellungen</h3> <p> NZZ.ch benötigt JavaScript für wichtige Funktionen. Ihr Browser oder Adblocker verhindert dies momentan. </p> <p>Bitte passen Sie die Einstellungen an.</p></div></div></div><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ms0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer nzzinteraction">Die Idee kam mir bei der Recherche zu meinem letzten Buch über künstliche Intelligenz. Da unterhielt ich mich eines Tages mit einem Entwickler über seine Vision von Smart Citys, also Städten, wo jeder mit jedem vernetzt ist. Als ich ihn fragte, ob darin auch unvernetzte Verkehrsteilnehmer vorgesehen seien, antwortete er: «Nein, da wird Ihnen kein Pferd auf der Strasse entgegenkommen.» In seiner Vorstellung von der Stadt der Zukunft wäre es der maximale Störfaktor. Diese Reise, die am 22. Juni in Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne bei Bordeaux startete, soll ein Gegenentwurf sein. Ich möchte den Menschen direkt begegnen, zufällig, ohne Filter durch Social Media. Ich suche den direkten Augenkontakt, der Vertrauen schafft. Das Pferd hilft mir dabei.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98mu0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Inwiefern?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98mv0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Die Sympathie, die dem Pferd entgegengebracht wird, stellt immer einen sehr direkten Kontakt zu den Menschen her. Wenn ich irgendwo ankomme, bin ich nie der Journalist oder der Typ aus der Stadt, sondern einfach nur der Wanderreiter. Im Gespräch geht es immer zuerst um das Pferd: was es braucht und wo es weiden könnte. Man entwickelt sehr schnell eine Beziehung, die um das Pferd und seine Bedürfnisse kreist.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98n10" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wie kam Montaigne ins Spiel, dessen Reiseroute von 1580/81 Sie ja folgen?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98n20" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Es gibt nur wenige Autoren, die auf literarische Weise darüber geschrieben haben, wie sie zu Pferd durch Europa gereist sind. Und niemand so wie Montaigne, der nicht nur in seinem Reisetagebuch, sondern auch in seinen berühmten Essays darüber geschrieben und nachgedacht hat. Montaigne liebte es, im Sattel zu sitzen, «le cul sur la selle», wie er es ausdrückte. Aber neben dem passionierten Reiter und Reisenden Montaigne ist der Philosoph Montaigne am wichtigsten für mich.</p><div id="id-doc-1ekgtqbu60" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="iframe" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent iframe nzzinteraction"><div style="position: relative; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%; padding-bottom: 85%;" class="responsiveContainer"><iframe loading="lazy" src="https://www.polarsteps.com/GaspardKoenig2/3323302-2500-km-a-cheval-sur-les-traces-de-montaigne/?embed=true" style="position: absolute; top: 0px; left: 0px; width: 100%; height: 100%;" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></div><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98n40" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wieso?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98n60" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Bei Montaigne geht es darum, wie man zum Individuum wird. Das interessiert mich. Viele Themen Montaignes sind erstaunlich modern: Er ist einer der Ersten, die sich für Tierrechte einsetzten. Er ist ein grosser Theoretiker des guten Reisens, für den das Unterwegssein an sich wichtiger ist als das Ankommen. Als er von seinem Schloss bei Bordeaux aufbrach, wusste er nicht, was ihn erwarten würde. Klar: Er wollte nach Rom, aber sein Weg dorthin war ziemlich offen.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98n80" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wollte er nicht seine Nierensteine loswerden?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nb0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Er hatte verschiedene Motive für diese Reise: Ja, er wollte durch Bäderkuren seine Koliken loswerden, Protestanten treffen, die ersten zwei Bände seiner Essays dem französischen König und dem Papst überreichen und seine Zeit – eine Zeit der Religionskriege und der Pest – besser verstehen, indem er Menschen traf. Vor allem aber wollte er reisen. Reisen um des Reisens willen.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nd0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Montaigne war – anders als Sie – nicht allein unterwegs, sondern in Begleitung seines jüngeren Bruders, einer Gruppe Adliger und ihrer Diener.</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nf0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Auch sonst gibt es ziemliche Unterschiede. Es geht mir ja nicht um eine historische Rekonstruktion seiner Reise. Montaigne ist für mich nur eine Inspiration für eine besondere Geisteshaltung des Reisens. Er konnte jeden Tag deutlich weiter, sorgloser und auch schneller reiten als ich, weil er jeden Tag das Pferd wechselte. Ich dagegen muss alles tun, um mein Pferd zu schonen. Deswegen haben wir die Alpen auch mit dem Pferdetransporter überquert. Ich reite nur den halben Tag. Die andere Hälfte gehe ich neben dem Pferd her. Das ist gut für mich und für das Tier. Wenn meine Beine müde werden, reite ich. Wenn mein Nacken schmerzt, gehe ich zu Fuss.</p><figure id="id-doc-1ekjr8ife0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--right nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg?width=1200&height=798&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:133.33%;"><img alt="Der Schriftsteller und Philosoph Gaspard Koenig ist vorübergehend zum Wanderreiter geworden." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="1176" height="1568" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg?width=240&height=320&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=1176,1568,x2048,y282 240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg?width=480&height=640&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=1176,1568,x2048,y282 480w" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description image-description--small"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption">Der Schriftsteller und Philosoph Gaspard Koenig ist vorübergehend zum Wanderreiter geworden.</h2> <div class="image-description__author image-description__author--small"><span data-nzz-tid="image-description-author" class="image-description__author-single">Erol Gurian</span></div></div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ni0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Was für ein Pferd reiten Sie?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nk0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Einen Vollblutspanier, eine Stute. Offenbar – aber das habe ich erst später herausgefunden – ist sie den Pferden, die ein Aristokrat des 16. Jahrhunderts geritten hat, gar nicht so unähnlich. Destinada ist sechs Jahre alt, also noch jung. Es ist ihre erste Reise. Ihre grösste Stärke ist ihre geradezu surreale Ruhe. Es bringt sie nichts aus der Balance: keine grossen Strassen, keine Autos, nichts. Im Lauf der letzten Monate ist sie sogar noch ruhiger geworden. </p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nm0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Kommunizieren Sie miteinander? </strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98no0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Wenn ich pfeife, wiehert sie manchmal zurück. Wenn Desti die Ohren aufstellt, weiss ich, dass es aufzupassen gilt. Wir freuen uns manchmal sogar über die gleichen Sachen. Etwa als wir an einem heissen Tag nach einem stundenlangen Ritt durch eine Landschaft aus Getreidefeldern endlich wieder den Schatten eines Waldes erreicht hatten. Aber man darf das alles auch nicht überinterpretieren.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wie geht es Ihnen mit dem Alleinsein?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nr0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Gut. Einerseits ist man mit einem Pferd ja nie allein. Andererseits ist das Alleinreisen eine gute Voraussetzung, um andere Menschen zu treffen und kennenzulernen. So spricht man die Sprache des Landes, durch das man reist – viel mehr, als wenn man in einer Gruppe reist. Mein Deutsch ist nicht besonders gut, aber ich habe noch nie so viel Deutsch gesprochen wie auf dieser Reise.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98nt0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Anders als zu Montaignes Zeiten spielen Pferde heute im Alltag meist keine Rolle mehr. Wie reagieren die Menschen auf Sie?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98o20" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Ich habe festgestellt, dass es in den Städten immer noch eine Erinnerung an das Pferd als Transport- und Verkehrsmittel gibt. Als ich in Meaux in einem Altersheim übernachten durfte, habe ich mich mit den Bewohnern unterhalten. Ungefähr die Hälfte hatte in ihrer Jugend noch mit Pferden auf dem Bauernhof gearbeitet! Aber auch die Architektur der alten Städte und Häuser erinnert an das Pferd.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98o30" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Haben Sie ein Beispiel dafür?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98o50" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Wenn ich Essen einkaufe, ist die Frage immer: Wo binde ich jetzt mein Pferd an? Einmal ist uns Folgendes passiert: Da gab es in Chabris an der Hauswand tatsächlich noch den alten Metallring, an dem man früher sein Pferd festmachen konnte! Als die Verkäuferin sah, wie ich mein Pferd daran anband, rief sie – kaum weniger erstaunt als ich – ihrem Mann zu: «Hab ich’s dir doch gesagt: Eines Tages wird doch noch ein Pferd kommen! Und wenn es zwanzig Jahre dauert» (lacht). Vielleicht gibt es auch eine Art anthropologische Erinnerung an das Pferd in jedem von uns. Das würde erklären, warum die meisten Menschen Destinada und mir mit grosser Sympathie begegnen. Viele bedanken sich, wenn sie sich von uns verabschieden.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98o70" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Warum?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oa0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Ich glaube, weil unsere Reise zeigt, dass man anders und freier, wenn auch langsamer reisen kann, als wir es als Touristen tun. Ausserdem erzeugt ein Pferd um sich herum Leben. Umso mehr, als es nicht mehr so gut in unsere Welt passt. Dadurch entsteht Disruption, die lebendig macht. Mit einem Pferd auf Reisen erlebt man das alltäglich.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1eke1h57m0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction">Zum Beispiel?</p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1eke1h7050" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Einmal war ich in einem französischen Dorf zum Essen eingeladen. In einem sehr schönen, sehr teuer eingerichteten Haus, an dem alles perfekt war. Sehr bourgeois. Aber es gab ein Problem: Den Garten konnte man nur vom Haus aus erreichen. Wie also sollte Destinada dort hingelangen? Plötzlich schlug die Hausbesitzerin, eine sehr freundliche, sehr gepflegte, aber etwas steif wirkende Dame, zu meinem Erstaunen vor, dass Desti doch einfach durchs Haus gehen solle. Sie lachte, als ich das Pferd durch das Wohnzimmer in den Garten führte.</p><figure id="id-doc-1ekjj6fci0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--fullwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=1200&height=798&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.53%;"><img alt="Gaspar Koenig: «Wenn man lernt, sich selbst genug zu sein, ist alles andere nur eine Zugabe oder ein Luxus.»" data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="6048" height="4024" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=1120&height=747&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=2240&height=1493&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=976&height=651&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=1952&height=1301&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=736&height=491&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=1472&height=981&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=375&height=250&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description image-description--fullwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Gaspar Koenig: «Wenn man lernt, sich selbst genug zu sein, ist alles andere nur eine Zugabe oder ein Luxus.»</h2> <div class="image-description__author"><span data-nzz-tid="image-description-author" class="image-description__author-single">Erol Gurian</span></div></div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oc0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wie haben Sie sich auf dieser Reise verändert?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oe0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Zuerst einmal habe ich 15 Kilo abgenommen. Und mir einen Schnurrbart wachsen lassen. Aber abgesehen vom Äusseren: Man lernt, mit sich selbst zufrieden zu sein. Ganz im Sinne von Montaigne und dem, was er die «arrière boutique» nannte – eine Art geistiges Hinterstübchen, in dem wir das Gespräch mit uns selbst führen. Man lernt, mit einem Minimum an Dingen auszukommen. Das eine bedingt das andere: Wenn man lernt, sich selbst genug zu sein, ist alles andere nur eine Zugabe oder ein Luxus.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98of0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Was haben Sie sonst noch gelernt?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98og0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Den Wert der Gastfreundschaft. Man könnte ja meinen, dass sie verkümmert ist – in unserer Welt, in der der Tourismus und die Buchungsportale sie ersetzt haben. Aber das scheint nicht der Fall zu sein. Gastfreundschaft ist etwas sehr Schönes – nicht nur für den, der sie empfängt, sondern auch für den, der sie gibt. Sie ist eine gute Schule der Menschenkenntnis, weil sie darauf beruht, einen anderen Menschen in Sekundenbruchteilen einzuschätzen. In gewisser Weise vertraut man sich dabei gegenseitig sein Leben an. Ich könnte ja auch ein Mörder sein.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oh0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Aber Sie haben ja das Pferd.</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oj0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Das macht in der Tat sehr viel aus. Das Pferd federt die Situation des Kennenlernens ab und beschleunigt es. Offenbar denken sich die Leute: Wenn er ein Pferd hat, um das er sich kümmert, kann er kein ganz übler Typ sein.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ol0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Sie sind verheiratet und haben zwei Kinder, neun und elf Jahre alt. Vermissen Sie Ihre Familie? </strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98om0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Seltsamerweise nicht. Vielleicht ist das aber auch gut so. Es ist ja kein schönes Gefühl, jemanden zu vermissen. Vermissen hat auch etwas Egoistisches an sich. Weil es dabei eigentlich um das eigene Wohlbefinden geht.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98on0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Was halten Ihre Kinder davon, dass ihr Vater durch Europa reitet?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oo0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Sie finden es ungerecht, dass ich unterwegs bin und sie nicht. Sie sind auch etwas eifersüchtig auf das Pferd, das ihnen den Vater streitig macht. Aber wir sehen uns mindestens einmal im Monat für ein oder zwei Tage. Abends telefonieren wir. Wenn man sonst viel Zeit miteinander verbringt, kann man ohne Schaden auch einmal getrennt sein. Und hat sich danach vielleicht umso lieber.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98oq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Werden Sie jemals wieder normale Ferien machen?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98or0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Davor graut mir in der Tat ein wenig. Was ich weiss: Ich will eigentlich nie wieder ein richtiger Tourist sein. Ich möchte auch nicht mehr so weit reisen. Für meine bisherigen Bücher bin ich oft sehr weit gereist. Das ist für mich vorbei.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ot0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Weshalb?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ov0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Weil ich gelernt habe, wie viel es in der Nähe, ja sogar in meinem eigenen Land, Frankreich, zu sehen gibt. Ausserdem glaube ich, dass es schöner ist, wenige Orte gut und intensiv kennenzulernen als viele Orte nur sehr oberflächlich.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p00" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Die Corona-Krise hat auf den Tourismus wie eine grosse Stopptaste gewirkt. Glauben Sie, dass daraus ein Reset für einen neuen, anderen Tourismus resultieren wird?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p20" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Unbedingt! Auf meiner Reise habe ich gerade an den besonders touristischen Orten immer wieder Menschen getroffen, die dem bisherigen Tourismus skeptisch gegenüberstehen – obwohl oder auch gerade weil sie ihr Geld damit verdienen. Die bayrische Stadt Füssen ist so ein Beispiel, sie liegt in der Nähe des Schlosses Neuschwanstein, das wahnsinnig viele Besucher anzieht. Der Tourismus hat ja oft das zerstört, was die Touristen ursprünglich angezogen hat.</p><figure id="id-doc-1ekjjj6ua1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=1200&height=1593&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:132.77%;"><img alt="Michel de Montaigne (1533–1592) hielt seine Reise durch Europa in einem Tagebuch fest." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3720" height="4939" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=680&height=907&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3705,4939,x0,y0 680w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=1360&height=1813&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3705,4939,x0,y0 1360w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=327&height=436&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3705,4939,x0,y0 327w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=654&height=872&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3705,4939,x0,y0 654w" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Michel de Montaigne (1533–1592) hielt seine Reise durch Europa in einem Tagebuch fest.</h2> <div class="image-description__author"><span data-nzz-tid="image-description-author" class="image-description__author-single">Imago</span></div></div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p30" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Gab es frühe Formen dessen, was Sie da kritisieren, auch schon zu Montaignes Zeiten?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p40" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Montaigne lebte in einer Zeit, als der moderne Tourismus in gewisser Weise begann. Nicht als Massentourismus, aber doch so, dass es schon Reiseführer gab und – ich übertreibe ein bisschen – Pauschalreisen für Adlige. Montaigne lehnte das ab. Als er in Rom angekommen ist, regt er sich auf, dass so viele dort Französisch sprechen, und er lernt Italienisch. Er nimmt sich vor, nur noch Italienisch zu reden, und fängt sogar an, sein Reisetagebuch auf Italienisch zu schreiben. Ein etwas unbeholfenes Italienisch, aber doch gut genug, um Dinge zu notieren. Das war auch für mich Vorbild. Wenn die Leute anfingen, Englisch mit mir zu reden, habe ich sie immer gebeten, auf Deutsch zu wechseln.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p50" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Ist es nicht ein realistischeres Szenario, dass viele Touristen bald mit Google Translate und Google-Glass-Brillen kommunizieren werden?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p70" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Kann sein. Aber warum soll man dann überhaupt noch reisen? Dann kann man in letzter Konsequenz auch zu Hause bleiben und sich am Tablet oder per Augmented Reality durch ein digitales Abbild dieser Welt klicken.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p80" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Aber Sie setzen trotzdem digitale Technik auf Ihrer Reise ein?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98p90" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Klar. Ich bin ja kein Technikfeind. Ich habe ein Tablet, auf dem alle meine Karten abgespeichert sind. Mit einer App, die mir hilft, Pflanzen und Bäume zu bestimmen. Und Montaignes Texte habe ich auch darauf gespeichert.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pa0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wie wählen Sie Ihre Route aus?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pb0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Das Schöne ist ja, dass man bei Google Maps nicht einfach «Von A nach B per Pferd» eingeben kann. Das gefällt mir. Erstaunlicherweise hängt die Routenwahl stark davon ab, in welchem Land wir gerade unterwegs sind. Wir reiten meistens auf Wanderwegen, was besonders in Deutschland gut funktioniert hat. Es gibt dort auch fast keine Forstwege, die einem versperrt sind. Ganz anders als in Frankreich, wo man sich streng an die Fernwanderwege halten muss. In Deutschland sind es eher die Absperrungen gegen Autos und Quads, die Probleme bereiten – als Wanderer oder Radfahrer kommt man da gut hindurch. Mit einem Pferd oft nicht.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pd0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Wo fiel Ihnen das Reiten am schwersten?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pe0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Dort, wo man sich den grossen Städten nähert. Aber nicht die Städte und ihre Zentren sind das Problem, sondern die Vororte. Durch die alten Stadtzentren reitet es sich ganz angenehm. Es sind eher diese suburbanen Räume, wo alles schwierig wird. Der Verkehr, die Orientierung, die Architektur, einfach alles. Es kann auch niemand Auskunft geben, wo es von A nach B geht, weil die meisten dort nur arbeiten, aber nicht wohnen.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pf0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Was haben Sie über die Schweiz gelernt?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pg0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Nichts.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ph0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Nichts?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pi0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Weil ich mit meinem Pferd nicht in die Schweiz reiten durfte. Es fing schon nicht gut an, als ich mich bei der Stadt Basel erkundigte, ob man mir behilflich sein könne. Als Antwort kam nur, ich könne gern auf eigenes Risiko durch die Stadt reiten. Aber ich möge doch bitte die Pferdeäpfel beseitigen.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pk0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>In Basel traf Montaigne damals den Juristen und Calvinisten</strong> <strong>François Hotman und Felix Platter, den berühmten Arzt.</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pl0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Schon deshalb wäre ich gern nach Basel gereist. Aber das eigentliche Problem war nicht Basel, sondern die Einreise in die Schweiz per Pferd. Wenn man mit einem Pferd von der EU aus in die Schweiz reiten will, braucht man dafür eine Import- und Exportgenehmigung. Weil dieses Carnet ATA ziemlich umfangreich ist und ich jedes Gramm sparen musste, habe ich nur das erste Blatt mit allen Stempeln und Unterschriften auf die Reise mitgenommen. Das war leider ein Fehler. An der Grenze hat der Zollbeamte nur über mein unvollständiges Dokument gelacht und mich nach Frankreich zurückgeschickt. Das war am 5. September.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pm0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Hatte Montaigne ähnliche Probleme?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pn0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Er konnte zum Beispiel nicht nach Zürich, wegen der Pest. Aber die Grenzen waren zu seiner Zeit viel lokaler, weniger bürokratisch und weniger rigide als heute. Oft musste er sich an der Stadtgrenze erklären. Wir denken ja immer, unsere Welt sei so offen. Aber in mancherlei Hinsicht war die Welt früher für Reisende offener als heute. Und damit meine ich nicht die Reisebeschränkungen, die durch Corona bedingt und hoffentlich nur temporär sind. Sondern die ganz normalen Beschränkungen. Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts etwa konnten die, die es sich leisten konnten, leichter reisen als heutzutage. Und brauchten dafür nicht einmal einen Pass.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98po0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Nutzen Sie Montaigne vor Ort eigentlich auch als Guide? </strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Die Essays sind mein intellektueller Reiseführer, das Reisetagebuch lese ich, wenn ich dort ankomme, wo er schon vor 440 Jahren war. Wenn ich Zeit habe, suche ich nach den Orten und Bauwerken, die er beschreibt. Interessant ist, dass vieles davon sich überhaupt nicht verändert hat. Etwa wo die Weingärten beginnen und wo sie enden. Das ist heute noch so. </p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1eke1sk3f0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction">Hat die Reise Sie auch politisch geprägt?</p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1eke1sldd0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Ganz sicher. Ich habe früher viel neoliberaler gedacht als heute, ich stehe der Tendenz einer allumfassenden Kommerzialisierung viel kritischer gegenüber als vor ein paar Jahren. Ich glaube, wir müssen in unseren Gesellschaften neu überlegen, was Individualität bedeutet. Individualität hängt nicht davon ab, eine maximale Auswahl zu haben: von der Billigreise nach Thailand über die maximale Auswahl im Supermarkt. Aber diesem Modell sind wir in den letzten Jahrzehnten gefolgt: Je mehr Auswahl, desto freier, glaubten wir. Frei sein heisst für mich nicht, rasen zu dürfen. Oder Dinge immer noch billiger zu machen. Montaignes Freiheit ist eine andere: Sei frei, indem du das bist oder machst, was notwendig für dich ist.</p><p data-team-question="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98pr0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="question" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent question nzzinteraction"><strong>Montaigne wäre gern im Sattel gestorben. Hatten Sie auch schon diesen Wunsch?</strong></p><p data-team-answer="" id="id-doc-1ekdr98ps0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="answer" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent answer answer--after-question nzzinteraction">Lieber nicht. Da reicht mir der Vorfall letztens am Ufer des Lechs, als wir beinahe im Morast versunken wären. Ich hoffe sehr, dass wir Ende Oktober, Anfang November gesund in Rom ankommen.</p><p data-team-footnote="" id="id-doc-1ekgvv86p0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="footnote" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent footnote nzzinteraction">Gaspard Koenigs Reise ist auf seiner <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.gaspardkoenig.com/cheval">Website</a> dokumentiert.</p><figure id="id-doc-1ekjj8c6g0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--fullwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=1200&height=798&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.53%;"><img alt="«Offenbar denken sich die Leute: Wenn er ein Pferd hat, um das er sich kümmert, kann er kein ganz übler Typ sein.»" data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="6048" height="4024" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=1120&height=747&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=2240&height=1493&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=976&height=651&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=1952&height=1301&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=736&height=491&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=1472&height=981&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=375&height=250&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2020/10/14/c9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6036,4024,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description image-description--fullwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">«Offenbar denken sich die Leute: Wenn er ein Pferd hat, um das er sich kümmert, kann er kein ganz übler Typ sein.»</h2> <div class="image-description__author"><span data-nzz-tid="image-description-author" class="image-description__author-single">Erol Gurian </span></div></div></figcaption> </figure><div id="id-doc-1ekgfa3dh0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="infobox-advanced" data-vars-danzz-last-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent infobox nzzinteraction"><h2 class="infobox__title"><span data-team-infobox-title="">Michel de Montaigne reiste um des Reisens willen</span> <svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 48 48" class="infobox__icon nzz-icons--icon" style="width:40px;height:40px;"><path pid="0" d="M17 21l7 7 7-7" stroke="#000"/></svg></h2> <div class="infobox__body"><div><p data-team-paragraph="" class="articlecomponent infobox__text">C. L. · 17 Monate und 8 Tage, vom 22. Juni 1580 bis zum 30. November 1581, dauerte Michel de Montaignes berühmte Reise zu Pferd von Frankreich über die Schweiz, Süddeutschland, Tirol und Italien nach Rom. Es war vieles gleichzeitig: eine Bäder- und Kurreise, eine Bildungs- und Gelehrtenreise, eine diplomatische Mission, eine Pilgerfahrt, eine Flucht vor den Konfessionskriegen im Frankreich des 16. Jahrhunderts. Vor allem aber war der französische Philosoph und Essayist, der von 1533 bis 1592 lebte, unterwegs, um fremde Menschen und deren Sitten und Gebräuche kennenzulernen. Um – wie Montaigne es formulierte – «unser Gehirn an dem ihrigen zu reiben und zu glätten». In Lucca erreichte Montaigne die Nachricht, dass er zum Bürgermeister von Bordeaux gewählt worden sei. Vorbei war das Reisen, das er in seinen Essays so beschrieb: «Wenn es rechts nicht schön ist, geht es nach links; wenn ich mich nicht in der Lage sehe, mein Pferd zu besteigen, halte ich an … Habe ich vergessen, etwas anzuschauen? Ich kehre um; so finde ich immer meinen Weg. Ich plane keine Linie im Voraus, weder die gerade noch die krumme.» Montaigne hielt die Reise in einem <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://www.diogenes.ch/leser/titel/michel-de-montaigne/tagebuch-einer-reise-nach-italien-9783257236750.html">Tagebuch</a> fest. Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts wurde es in einer Truhe auf dem Schloss Montaigne entdeckt und 1774 veröffentlicht.  <br></p>    </div></div></div><div id="id-doc-1ekdr923h1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="sharebox" is-new-line-child="true" class="nzzinteraction"><div class="sharebox"><div class="sharebox__line"></div> <ul class="sharebox__content"><li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--bookmark"></li> <li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--print"><a href="" aria-current="page" title="Drucken" class="sharebox__link nuxt-link-exact-active nuxt-link-active"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="sharebox__icon sharebox__icon--print svg-print nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1v-7c0-.55.45-1 1-1h15c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v7c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H17" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M7 7.81V3.5c0-.55.45-1 1-1h8c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v4.31" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="2" d="M17 14v6.5c0 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pid="5" d="M154.1 154v93.8H60.3V154h93.8m4-4H56.3v101.8h101.8V150zM438.7 154v93.8h-93.8V154h93.8m4-4H340.9v101.8h101.8V150z"/><path pid="6" d="M344.2 154v93.8h-93.8V154h93.8m4-4H246.3v101.8h101.8V150h.1zM249 344.7v93.8h-93.8v-93.8H249m4-4H151.2v101.8H253V340.7z"/><path pid="7" d="M343.9 344.7v93.8h-93.8v-93.8h93.8m4-4H246.1v101.8h101.8V340.7zM154 344.7v93.8H74.6c-7.9 0-14.4-6.4-14.4-14.4v-79.5H154m4-3.9H56.2v83.5c0 10.1 8.2 18.4 18.4 18.4H158V340.7z"/><path pid="8" d="M438.9 344.7v78.1c0 8.7-7.1 15.8-15.8 15.8H345v-93.8h93.9m4-4.1H341.1v101.8h82.1c10.9 0 19.8-8.9 19.8-19.8v-82h-.1z"/><g><path pid="9" d="M248.9 250.9v93.8H155v-93.8h93.9m4-4H151v101.8h101.8V246.9h.1z"/><path pid="10" d="M154.1 250.9v93.8H60.3v-93.8h93.8m4-4H56.3v101.8h101.8V246.9zM438.7 250.9v93.8h-93.8v-93.8h93.8m4-4H340.9v101.8h101.8V246.9z"/><path pid="11" d="M344.2 250.9v93.8h-93.8v-93.8h93.8m4-4H246.3v101.8h101.8V246.9h.1z"/></g><path pid="12" d="M240 56.2h20v381h-20z"/><path pid="13" d="M59.5 260v-20h381v20z"/><text transform="translate(277.27 222.545)" font-size="70" font-family="GTAmerica-Medium">4</text><text transform="translate(90.686 131.573)" font-size="70" font-family="GTAmerica-Medium">1</text><text transform="translate(85.576 221.573)" font-size="70" font-family="GTAmerica-Medium">2</text><text transform="translate(369.6 325.886)" font-size="70" font-family="GTAmerica-Medium">4</text><text transform="translate(183.015 416.184)" font-size="70" font-family="GTAmerica-Medium">1</text></svg></div> <h3 href="https://spiele.nzz.ch/sudoku/?utm_campaign=sudoku&utm_medium=footer_widget&utm_source=nzz_ch" class="games-widget__title">Sudoku</h3></a></div><div class="games-widget__item swiper-slide"><a href="https://spiele.nzz.ch/mahjong/?utm_campaign=mahjong&utm_medium=footer_widget&utm_source=nzz_ch" class="games-widget__link"><div class="games-widget__icon games-widget__icon--article"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 500 500" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill" style="width:72px;height:72px;"><path pid="0" d="M366.6 403.5c-3.5 0-6.9-.5-10.3-1.5l-163.6-50c-9-2.8-16.4-8.9-20.9-17.3s-5.4-18-2.6-27L249.8 44c4.5-14.8 18.5-25.1 34-25.1 3.5 0 6.9.5 10.3 1.5l163.6 50c9 2.8 16.4 8.9 20.9 17.3s5.4 18 2.6 27l-80.6 263.6c-4.5 14.9-18.5 25.2-34 25.2z" fill="#fff"/><path pid="1" d="M283.8 28c2.6 0 5.2.4 7.6 1.1l163.6 50c14 4.3 21.8 19.1 17.6 33L392 375.8c-3.4 11-13.8 18.7-25.4 18.7-2.6 0-5.2-.4-7.6-1.1l-163.6-50c-14-4.3-21.8-19.1-17.6-33l80.6-263.6c3.4-11.1 13.8-18.8 25.4-18.8m0-18c-19 0-36.8 12.4-42.6 31.5L160.6 305c-7.1 23.4 6.1 48.4 29.5 55.5l163.6 50c4.3 1.3 8.6 1.9 12.9 1.9 19 0 36.8-12.4 42.6-31.5l80.6-263.6c7.1-23.4-6.1-48.4-29.5-55.5l-163.6-50c-4.3-1.2-8.6-1.8-12.9-1.8z"/><path pid="2" d="M355 158.1c-2.5 0-4.9-.4-7.3-1.1-13.1-4-20.5-17.9-16.5-31.1 3.2-10.5 12.8-17.6 23.8-17.6 2.5 0 4.9.4 7.3 1.1 6.4 1.9 11.6 6.2 14.7 12.1 3.1 5.9 3.8 12.6 1.8 19-3.3 10.6-12.8 17.6-23.8 17.6z" fill="#fff"/><path pid="3" d="M355 117.4c1.6 0 3.1.2 4.7.7 4.1 1.2 7.4 4 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{layout:"default",data:[{data:{content:[{id:"doc-1ekdr923g0",data:{_leadDirective:{}},content:{lead:dc,title:ac,author:ad},identifier:dd,component:"header",prevElement:a,nextElement:n,firstContentElement:c},{id:de,data:{_authorDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"0":{end:aV,text:aW,start:s}}},_captionDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"53":{end:62,text:"Destinada",start:53}}}},styles:{position:b_},content:{image:{url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",width:aA,height:aB,origins:[{name:j,identifier:df}],mimeType:y,originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg",imageService:z,key:"2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F4aaa5d30-eae2-41fc-aad5-81815c6e2183.jpeg"},author:dg,caption:b$},identifier:n,component:aC,prevElement:dd,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98mq0",data:{},content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EGaspard Koenig, früher schrieben Sie Reden für die französische Wirtschafts- und Finanzministerin Christine Lagarde. Heute reiten Sie auf einer Stute namens Destinada durch Europa. Warum?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,prevElement:n,nextElement:ca},{id:"doc-37a2f5d1",identifier:ca,prevElement:d,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ms0",content:{text:"Die Idee kam mir bei der Recherche zu meinem letzten Buch über künstliche Intelligenz. Da unterhielt ich mich eines Tages mit einem Entwickler über seine Vision von Smart Citys, also Städten, wo jeder mit jedem vernetzt ist. Als ich ihn fragte, ob darin auch unvernetzte Verkehrsteilnehmer vorgesehen seien, antwortete er: «Nein, da wird Ihnen kein Pferd auf der Strasse entgegenkommen.» In seiner Vorstellung von der Stadt der Zukunft wäre es der maximale Störfaktor. Diese Reise, die am 22. Juni in Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne bei Bordeaux startete, soll ein Gegenentwurf sein. Ich möchte den Menschen direkt begegnen, zufällig, ohne Filter durch Social Media. Ich suche den direkten Augenkontakt, der Vertrauen schafft. Das Pferd hilft mir dabei."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:ca,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98mu0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EInwiefern?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98mv0",content:{text:"Die Sympathie, die dem Pferd entgegengebracht wird, stellt immer einen sehr direkten Kontakt zu den Menschen her. Wenn ich irgendwo ankomme, bin ich nie der Journalist oder der Typ aus der Stadt, sondern einfach nur der Wanderreiter. Im Gespräch geht es immer zuerst um das Pferd: was es braucht und wo es weiden könnte. Man entwickelt sehr schnell eine Beziehung, die um das Pferd und seine Bedürfnisse kreist."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98n10",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWie kam Montaigne ins Spiel, dessen Reiseroute von 1580\u002F81 Sie ja folgen?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98n20",data:{},content:{text:"Es gibt nur wenige Autoren, die auf literarische Weise darüber geschrieben haben, wie sie zu Pferd durch Europa gereist sind. Und niemand so wie Montaigne, der nicht nur in seinem Reisetagebuch, sondern auch in seinen berühmten Essays darüber geschrieben und nachgedacht hat. Montaigne liebte es, im Sattel zu sitzen, «le cul sur la selle», wie er es ausdrückte. Aber neben dem passionierten Reiter und Reisenden Montaigne ist der Philosoph Montaigne am wichtigsten für mich."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:cb},{id:"doc-1ekgtqbu60",data:{_iframeDirective:{_embedHandler:dh}},content:{iframe:{html:"\u003Cdiv style=\"position: relative; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%; padding-bottom: 85%;\" class=\"responsiveContainer\"\u003E\u003Ciframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.polarsteps.com\u002FGaspardKoenig2\u002F3323302-2500-km-a-cheval-sur-les-traces-de-montaigne\u002F?embed=true\" style=\"position: absolute; top: 0px; left: 0px; width: 100%; height: 100%;\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fdiv\u003E"}},identifier:cb,component:dh,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98n40",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWieso?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:cb,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98n60",content:{text:"Bei Montaigne geht es darum, wie man zum Individuum wird. Das interessiert mich. Viele Themen Montaignes sind erstaunlich modern: Er ist einer der Ersten, die sich für Tierrechte einsetzten. Er ist ein grosser Theoretiker des guten Reisens, für den das Unterwegssein an sich wichtiger ist als das Ankommen. Als er von seinem Schloss bei Bordeaux aufbrach, wusste er nicht, was ihn erwarten würde. Klar: Er wollte nach Rom, aber sein Weg dorthin war ziemlich offen."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98n80",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWollte er nicht seine Nierensteine loswerden?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nb0",data:{},content:{text:"Er hatte verschiedene Motive für diese Reise: Ja, er wollte durch Bäderkuren seine Koliken loswerden, Protestanten treffen, die ersten zwei Bände seiner Essays dem französischen König und dem Papst überreichen und seine Zeit – eine Zeit der Religionskriege und der Pest – besser verstehen, indem er Menschen traf. Vor allem aber wollte er reisen. Reisen um des Reisens willen."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nd0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EMontaigne war – anders als Sie – nicht allein unterwegs, sondern in Begleitung seines jüngeren Bruders, einer Gruppe Adliger und ihrer Diener.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nf0",data:{},content:{text:"Auch sonst gibt es ziemliche Unterschiede. Es geht mir ja nicht um eine historische Rekonstruktion seiner Reise. Montaigne ist für mich nur eine Inspiration für eine besondere Geisteshaltung des Reisens. Er konnte jeden Tag deutlich weiter, sorgloser und auch schneller reiten als ich, weil er jeden Tag das Pferd wechselte. Ich dagegen muss alles tun, um mein Pferd zu schonen. Deswegen haben wir die Alpen auch mit dem Pferdetransporter überquert. Ich reite nur den halben Tag. Die andere Hälfte gehe ich neben dem Pferd her. Das ist gut für mich und für das Tier. Wenn meine Beine müde werden, reite ich. Wenn mein Nacken schmerzt, gehe ich zu Fuss."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:n},{id:di,data:{_authorDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"0":{end:aV,text:aW,start:s}}},_captionDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"70":{end:82,text:"Wanderreiter",start:70}}}},styles:{position:"image--right"},content:{image:{url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg?crop=1176,1568,x2048,y282&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",crop:{x:2048,y:282,name:"3:4",width:1176,height:1568},width:aA,height:aB,origins:[{name:j,identifier:dj}],mimeType:y,originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg",imageService:z,key:"2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F2765de4f-a9df-4d90-844a-4294bc03a64d.jpeg"},author:aD,caption:dk},identifier:n,component:aC,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ni0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWas für ein Pferd reiten Sie?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:n,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nk0",data:{},content:{text:"Einen Vollblutspanier, eine Stute. Offenbar – aber das habe ich erst später herausgefunden – ist sie den Pferden, die ein Aristokrat des 16. Jahrhunderts geritten hat, gar nicht so unähnlich. Destinada ist sechs Jahre alt, also noch jung. Es ist ihre erste Reise. Ihre grösste Stärke ist ihre geradezu surreale Ruhe. Es bringt sie nichts aus der Balance: keine grossen Strassen, keine Autos, nichts. Im Lauf der letzten Monate ist sie sogar noch ruhiger geworden. "},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nm0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EKommunizieren Sie miteinander? \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98no0",data:{},content:{text:"Wenn ich pfeife, wiehert sie manchmal zurück. Wenn Desti die Ohren aufstellt, weiss ich, dass es aufzupassen gilt. Wir freuen uns manchmal sogar über die gleichen Sachen. Etwa als wir an einem heissen Tag nach einem stundenlangen Ritt durch eine Landschaft aus Getreidefeldern endlich wieder den Schatten eines Waldes erreicht hatten. Aber man darf das alles auch nicht überinterpretieren."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nq0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWie geht es Ihnen mit dem Alleinsein?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nr0",data:{},content:{text:"Gut. Einerseits ist man mit einem Pferd ja nie allein. Andererseits ist das Alleinreisen eine gute Voraussetzung, um andere Menschen zu treffen und kennenzulernen. So spricht man die Sprache des Landes, durch das man reist – viel mehr, als wenn man in einer Gruppe reist. Mein Deutsch ist nicht besonders gut, aber ich habe noch nie so viel Deutsch gesprochen wie auf dieser Reise."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98nt0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EAnders als zu Montaignes Zeiten spielen Pferde heute im Alltag meist keine Rolle mehr. Wie reagieren die Menschen auf Sie?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98o20",data:{},content:{text:"Ich habe festgestellt, dass es in den Städten immer noch eine Erinnerung an das Pferd als Transport- und Verkehrsmittel gibt. Als ich in Meaux in einem Altersheim übernachten durfte, habe ich mich mit den Bewohnern unterhalten. Ungefähr die Hälfte hatte in ihrer Jugend noch mit Pferden auf dem Bauernhof gearbeitet! Aber auch die Architektur der alten Städte und Häuser erinnert an das Pferd."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98o30",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EHaben Sie ein Beispiel dafür?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98o50",data:{},content:{text:"Wenn ich Essen einkaufe, ist die Frage immer: Wo binde ich jetzt mein Pferd an? Einmal ist uns Folgendes passiert: Da gab es in Chabris an der Hauswand tatsächlich noch den alten Metallring, an dem man früher sein Pferd festmachen konnte! Als die Verkäuferin sah, wie ich mein Pferd daran anband, rief sie – kaum weniger erstaunt als ich – ihrem Mann zu: «Hab ich’s dir doch gesagt: Eines Tages wird doch noch ein Pferd kommen! Und wenn es zwanzig Jahre dauert» (lacht). Vielleicht gibt es auch eine Art anthropologische Erinnerung an das Pferd in jedem von uns. Das würde erklären, warum die meisten Menschen Destinada und mir mit grosser Sympathie begegnen. Viele bedanken sich, wenn sie sich von uns verabschieden."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98o70",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWarum?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oa0",content:{text:"Ich glaube, weil unsere Reise zeigt, dass man anders und freier, wenn auch langsamer reisen kann, als wir es als Touristen tun. Ausserdem erzeugt ein Pferd um sich herum Leben. Umso mehr, als es nicht mehr so gut in unsere Welt passt. Dadurch entsteht Disruption, die lebendig macht. Mit einem Pferd auf Reisen erlebt man das alltäglich."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1eke1h57m0",content:{text:"Zum Beispiel?"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1eke1h7050",data:{},content:{text:"Einmal war ich in einem französischen Dorf zum Essen eingeladen. In einem sehr schönen, sehr teuer eingerichteten Haus, an dem alles perfekt war. Sehr bourgeois. Aber es gab ein Problem: Den Garten konnte man nur vom Haus aus erreichen. Wie also sollte Destinada dort hingelangen? Plötzlich schlug die Hausbesitzerin, eine sehr freundliche, sehr gepflegte, aber etwas steif wirkende Dame, zu meinem Erstaunen vor, dass Desti doch einfach durchs Haus gehen solle. Sie lachte, als ich das Pferd durch das Wohnzimmer in den Garten führte."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:n},{id:dl,data:{_authorDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"0":{end:aV,text:aW,start:s}}}},styles:{position:b_},content:{image:{url:dm,width:aA,height:aB,origins:[{name:j,identifier:dn}],mimeType:y,originalUrl:do0,imageService:z,key:dp},author:aD,caption:dq},identifier:n,component:aC,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oc0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWie haben Sie sich auf dieser Reise verändert?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:n,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oe0",data:{},content:{text:"Zuerst einmal habe ich 15 Kilo abgenommen. Und mir einen Schnurrbart wachsen lassen. Aber abgesehen vom Äusseren: Man lernt, mit sich selbst zufrieden zu sein. Ganz im Sinne von Montaigne und dem, was er die «arrière boutique» nannte – eine Art geistiges Hinterstübchen, in dem wir das Gespräch mit uns selbst führen. Man lernt, mit einem Minimum an Dingen auszukommen. Das eine bedingt das andere: Wenn man lernt, sich selbst genug zu sein, ist alles andere nur eine Zugabe oder ein Luxus."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98of0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWas haben Sie sonst noch gelernt?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98og0",content:{text:"Den Wert der Gastfreundschaft. Man könnte ja meinen, dass sie verkümmert ist – in unserer Welt, in der der Tourismus und die Buchungsportale sie ersetzt haben. Aber das scheint nicht der Fall zu sein. Gastfreundschaft ist etwas sehr Schönes – nicht nur für den, der sie empfängt, sondern auch für den, der sie gibt. Sie ist eine gute Schule der Menschenkenntnis, weil sie darauf beruht, einen anderen Menschen in Sekundenbruchteilen einzuschätzen. In gewisser Weise vertraut man sich dabei gegenseitig sein Leben an. Ich könnte ja auch ein Mörder sein."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oh0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EAber Sie haben ja das Pferd.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oj0",content:{text:"Das macht in der Tat sehr viel aus. Das Pferd federt die Situation des Kennenlernens ab und beschleunigt es. Offenbar denken sich die Leute: Wenn er ein Pferd hat, um das er sich kümmert, kann er kein ganz übler Typ sein."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ol0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003ESie sind verheiratet und haben zwei Kinder, neun und elf Jahre alt. Vermissen Sie Ihre Familie? \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98om0",content:{text:"Seltsamerweise nicht. Vielleicht ist das aber auch gut so. Es ist ja kein schönes Gefühl, jemanden zu vermissen. Vermissen hat auch etwas Egoistisches an sich. Weil es dabei eigentlich um das eigene Wohlbefinden geht."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98on0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWas halten Ihre Kinder davon, dass ihr Vater durch Europa reitet?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oo0",content:{text:"Sie finden es ungerecht, dass ich unterwegs bin und sie nicht. Sie sind auch etwas eifersüchtig auf das Pferd, das ihnen den Vater streitig macht. Aber wir sehen uns mindestens einmal im Monat für ein oder zwei Tage. Abends telefonieren wir. Wenn man sonst viel Zeit miteinander verbringt, kann man ohne Schaden auch einmal getrennt sein. Und hat sich danach vielleicht umso lieber."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98oq0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWerden Sie jemals wieder normale Ferien machen?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98or0",content:{text:"Davor graut mir in der Tat ein wenig. Was ich weiss: Ich will eigentlich nie wieder ein richtiger Tourist sein. Ich möchte auch nicht mehr so weit reisen. Für meine bisherigen Bücher bin ich oft sehr weit gereist. Das ist für mich vorbei."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ot0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWeshalb?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ov0",content:{text:"Weil ich gelernt habe, wie viel es in der Nähe, ja sogar in meinem eigenen Land, Frankreich, zu sehen gibt. Ausserdem glaube ich, dass es schöner ist, wenige Orte gut und intensiv kennenzulernen als viele Orte nur sehr oberflächlich."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p00",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EDie Corona-Krise hat auf den Tourismus wie eine grosse Stopptaste gewirkt. Glauben Sie, dass daraus ein Reset für einen neuen, anderen Tourismus resultieren wird?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p20",data:{},content:{text:"Unbedingt! Auf meiner Reise habe ich gerade an den besonders touristischen Orten immer wieder Menschen getroffen, die dem bisherigen Tourismus skeptisch gegenüberstehen – obwohl oder auch gerade weil sie ihr Geld damit verdienen. Die bayrische Stadt Füssen ist so ein Beispiel, sie liegt in der Nähe des Schlosses Neuschwanstein, das wahnsinnig viele Besucher anzieht. Der Tourismus hat ja oft das zerstört, was die Touristen ursprünglich angezogen hat."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:n},{id:dr,content:{image:{url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",width:3720,height:4939,mediaId:"NHk9g-co2Wa5",mimeType:y,originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg",imageService:z,key:"2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F23643b8c-b0fe-4583-a934-7c9e33d9977f.jpeg"},author:ds,caption:dt},identifier:n,component:aC,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p30",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EGab es frühe Formen dessen, was Sie da kritisieren, auch schon zu Montaignes Zeiten?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:n,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p40",content:{text:"Montaigne lebte in einer Zeit, als der moderne Tourismus in gewisser Weise begann. Nicht als Massentourismus, aber doch so, dass es schon Reiseführer gab und – ich übertreibe ein bisschen – Pauschalreisen für Adlige. Montaigne lehnte das ab. Als er in Rom angekommen ist, regt er sich auf, dass so viele dort Französisch sprechen, und er lernt Italienisch. Er nimmt sich vor, nur noch Italienisch zu reden, und fängt sogar an, sein Reisetagebuch auf Italienisch zu schreiben. Ein etwas unbeholfenes Italienisch, aber doch gut genug, um Dinge zu notieren. Das war auch für mich Vorbild. Wenn die Leute anfingen, Englisch mit mir zu reden, habe ich sie immer gebeten, auf Deutsch zu wechseln."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p50",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EIst es nicht ein realistischeres Szenario, dass viele Touristen bald mit Google Translate und Google-Glass-Brillen kommunizieren werden?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p70",content:{text:"Kann sein. Aber warum soll man dann überhaupt noch reisen? Dann kann man in letzter Konsequenz auch zu Hause bleiben und sich am Tablet oder per Augmented Reality durch ein digitales Abbild dieser Welt klicken."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p80",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EAber Sie setzen trotzdem digitale Technik auf Ihrer Reise ein?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98p90",content:{text:"Klar. Ich bin ja kein Technikfeind. Ich habe ein Tablet, auf dem alle meine Karten abgespeichert sind. Mit einer App, die mir hilft, Pflanzen und Bäume zu bestimmen. Und Montaignes Texte habe ich auch darauf gespeichert."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pa0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWie wählen Sie Ihre Route aus?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pb0",content:{text:"Das Schöne ist ja, dass man bei Google Maps nicht einfach «Von A nach B per Pferd» eingeben kann. Das gefällt mir. Erstaunlicherweise hängt die Routenwahl stark davon ab, in welchem Land wir gerade unterwegs sind. Wir reiten meistens auf Wanderwegen, was besonders in Deutschland gut funktioniert hat. Es gibt dort auch fast keine Forstwege, die einem versperrt sind. Ganz anders als in Frankreich, wo man sich streng an die Fernwanderwege halten muss. In Deutschland sind es eher die Absperrungen gegen Autos und Quads, die Probleme bereiten – als Wanderer oder Radfahrer kommt man da gut hindurch. Mit einem Pferd oft nicht."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pd0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWo fiel Ihnen das Reiten am schwersten?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pe0",content:{text:"Dort, wo man sich den grossen Städten nähert. Aber nicht die Städte und ihre Zentren sind das Problem, sondern die Vororte. Durch die alten Stadtzentren reitet es sich ganz angenehm. Es sind eher diese suburbanen Räume, wo alles schwierig wird. Der Verkehr, die Orientierung, die Architektur, einfach alles. Es kann auch niemand Auskunft geben, wo es von A nach B geht, weil die meisten dort nur arbeiten, aber nicht wohnen."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pf0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EWas haben Sie über die Schweiz gelernt?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pg0",content:{text:"Nichts."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ph0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003ENichts?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pi0",content:{text:"Weil ich mit meinem Pferd nicht in die Schweiz reiten durfte. Es fing schon nicht gut an, als ich mich bei der Stadt Basel erkundigte, ob man mir behilflich sein könne. Als Antwort kam nur, ich könne gern auf eigenes Risiko durch die Stadt reiten. Aber ich möge doch bitte die Pferdeäpfel beseitigen."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pk0",data:{},content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EIn Basel traf Montaigne damals den Juristen und Calvinisten\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003Cstrong\u003EFrançois Hotman und Felix Platter, den berühmten Arzt.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pl0",content:{text:"Schon deshalb wäre ich gern nach Basel gereist. Aber das eigentliche Problem war nicht Basel, sondern die Einreise in die Schweiz per Pferd. Wenn man mit einem Pferd von der EU aus in die Schweiz reiten will, braucht man dafür eine Import- und Exportgenehmigung. Weil dieses Carnet ATA ziemlich umfangreich ist und ich jedes Gramm sparen musste, habe ich nur das erste Blatt mit allen Stempeln und Unterschriften auf die Reise mitgenommen. Das war leider ein Fehler. An der Grenze hat der Zollbeamte nur über mein unvollständiges Dokument gelacht und mich nach Frankreich zurückgeschickt. Das war am 5. September."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pm0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EHatte Montaigne ähnliche Probleme?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pn0",data:{},content:{text:"Er konnte zum Beispiel nicht nach Zürich, wegen der Pest. Aber die Grenzen waren zu seiner Zeit viel lokaler, weniger bürokratisch und weniger rigide als heute. Oft musste er sich an der Stadtgrenze erklären. Wir denken ja immer, unsere Welt sei so offen. Aber in mancherlei Hinsicht war die Welt früher für Reisende offener als heute. Und damit meine ich nicht die Reisebeschränkungen, die durch Corona bedingt und hoffentlich nur temporär sind. Sondern die ganz normalen Beschränkungen. Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts etwa konnten die, die es sich leisten konnten, leichter reisen als heutzutage. Und brauchten dafür nicht einmal einen Pass."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98po0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003ENutzen Sie Montaigne vor Ort eigentlich auch als Guide? \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pq0",content:{text:"Die Essays sind mein intellektueller Reiseführer, das Reisetagebuch lese ich, wenn ich dort ankomme, wo er schon vor 440 Jahren war. Wenn ich Zeit habe, suche ich nach den Orten und Bauwerken, die er beschreibt. Interessant ist, dass vieles davon sich überhaupt nicht verändert hat. Etwa wo die Weingärten beginnen und wo sie enden. Das ist heute noch so. "},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1eke1sk3f0",content:{text:"Hat die Reise Sie auch politisch geprägt?"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1eke1sldd0",content:{text:"Ganz sicher. Ich habe früher viel neoliberaler gedacht als heute, ich stehe der Tendenz einer allumfassenden Kommerzialisierung viel kritischer gegenüber als vor ein paar Jahren. Ich glaube, wir müssen in unseren Gesellschaften neu überlegen, was Individualität bedeutet. Individualität hängt nicht davon ab, eine maximale Auswahl zu haben: von der Billigreise nach Thailand über die maximale Auswahl im Supermarkt. Aber diesem Modell sind wir in den letzten Jahrzehnten gefolgt: Je mehr Auswahl, desto freier, glaubten wir. Frei sein heisst für mich nicht, rasen zu dürfen. Oder Dinge immer noch billiger zu machen. Montaignes Freiheit ist eine andere: Sei frei, indem du das bist oder machst, was notwendig für dich ist."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:d},{id:"doc-1ekdr98pr0",content:{text:"\u003Cstrong\u003EMontaigne wäre gern im Sattel gestorben. Hatten Sie auch schon diesen Wunsch?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E"},identifier:d,component:g,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{id:"doc-1ekdr98ps0",content:{text:"Lieber nicht. Da reicht mir der Vorfall letztens am Ufer des Lechs, als wir beinahe im Morast versunken wären. Ich hoffe sehr, dass wir Ende Oktober, Anfang November gesund in Rom ankommen."},identifier:e,component:h,paidContent:c,prevElement:d,nextElement:cc},{id:"doc-1ekgvv86p0",content:{text:"Gaspard Koenigs Reise ist auf seiner \u003Ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gaspardkoenig.com\u002Fcheval\"\u003EWebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dokumentiert."},identifier:cc,component:"footnote",paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:n},{id:du,data:{_authorDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"0":{end:aV,text:aW,start:s}}}},styles:{position:b_},content:{image:{url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002Fc9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",width:aA,height:aB,origins:[{name:j,identifier:dv}],mimeType:y,originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002Fc9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg",imageService:z,key:"2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002Fc9720a26-3dd5-4fad-bdaf-f4d269ac6451.jpeg"},author:dg,caption:dw},identifier:n,component:aC,paidContent:c,prevElement:cc,nextElement:cd},{id:"doc-1ekgfa3dh0",content:{title:"Michel de Montaigne reiste um des Reisens willen"},containers:{infobox:[{id:"doc-1ekgfa8120",data:{_textDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"37":{end:38,text:aX,start:37},"59":{end:dx,text:aX,start:59},"249":{end:257,text:"Kurreise",start:249},"278":{end:292,text:"Gelehrtenreise",start:278},"400":{end:401,text:aX,start:400},"1182":{end:1183,text:aX,start:1182}}}},content:{text:"C. L. · 17 Monate und 8 Tage, vom 22. Juni 1580 bis zum 30. November 1581, dauerte Michel de Montaignes berühmte Reise zu Pferd von Frankreich über die Schweiz, Süddeutschland, Tirol und Italien nach Rom. Es war vieles gleichzeitig: eine Bäder- und Kurreise, eine Bildungs- und Gelehrtenreise, eine diplomatische Mission, eine Pilgerfahrt, eine Flucht vor den Konfessionskriegen im Frankreich des 16. Jahrhunderts. Vor allem aber war der französische Philosoph und Essayist, der von 1533 bis 1592 lebte, unterwegs, um fremde Menschen und deren Sitten und Gebräuche kennenzulernen. Um – wie Montaigne es formulierte – «unser Gehirn an dem ihrigen zu reiben und zu glätten». In Lucca erreichte Montaigne die Nachricht, dass er zum Bürgermeister von Bordeaux gewählt worden sei. Vorbei war das Reisen, das er in seinen Essays so beschrieb: «Wenn es rechts nicht schön ist, geht es nach links; wenn ich mich nicht in der Lage sehe, mein Pferd zu besteigen, halte ich an … Habe ich vergessen, etwas anzuschauen? Ich kehre um; so finde ich immer meinen Weg. Ich plane keine Linie im Voraus, weder die gerade noch die krumme.» Montaigne hielt die Reise in einem \u003Ca rel=\"nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.diogenes.ch\u002Fleser\u002Ftitel\u002Fmichel-de-montaigne\u002Ftagebuch-einer-reise-nach-italien-9783257236750.html\"\u003ETagebuch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E fest. Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts wurde es in einer Truhe auf dem Schloss Montaigne entdeckt und 1774 veröffentlicht.  \u003Cbr\u003E"},identifier:"morpheus.infobox-paragraph",component:"infobox-paragraph"}]},identifier:cd,component:"infobox-advanced",paidContent:c,prevElement:n,nextElement:ce,lastContentElement:c},{id:"doc-1ekdr923h1",identifier:ce,component:"sharebox",paidContent:c,prevElement:cd,nextElement:cf},{id:"doc-1ekdr923h11",identifier:cf,component:"article-metainfo",content:[{name:ae,slug:dy},{name:dz,slug:dA}],title:"Mehr zum Thema",paidContent:c,prevElement:ce,nextElement:dB},{id:"doc-1ekdr923h2",content:{title:"Passend zum Artikel",hasArticleTags:c,relevantTopic:ae},containers:{"moreToSubject-area":[{id:"doc-1ekdr923h3",content:{"link-box-embed":{params:{type:cg,layout:[aY,ch,ci,cj,ck,aE,t,aZ],mediaId:1404519},service:cl},article:{metadata:{contentTypeGroup:af,significantUpdate:b,language:{label:a_,locale:A},title:"An jeder Ecke ein Lesezeichen – Elena Ferrantes geniale Stadt",nzzAuthors:[{name:"Birgit Schmid (bgs)",id:1371979}],designName:a$,catchline:a,significantUpdateTill:"2018-07-20T03:54:40.529Z",department:{path:B,level:ba,name:u},publicationDate:"2018-07-20T03:30:00.000Z",slug:"die-stadt-und-ihre-unbekannte",firstPublicationDate:"2018-07-19T15:54:40.529Z",nzzCharacterCount:22475,authorLine:"Birgit Schmid",lastProofreadRevision:23259815,numberOfContentComponents:55,leadText:dC,germanyRelevant:c,publicationLastUpdated:"2018-12-08T14:15:37.408Z",nzzArticleSnippet:dC,urlPath:"\u002Fgesellschaft\u002Fdie-stadt-und-ihre-unbekannte-ld.1404519",teaserImage:{imageService:"resrc.it",width:cm,originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F8a62030a-2dc5-499e-af07-4860071e399c.jpeg",crops:[{name:bb,x:s,width:cm,y:1351,url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FC=W4724,H2657,X0,Y1351\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F8a62030a-2dc5-499e-af07-4860071e399c.jpeg",height:2657},{name:bc,x:704,width:dD,y:552,url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FC=W3733,H3733,X704,Y552\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F8a62030a-2dc5-499e-af07-4860071e399c.jpeg",height:dD}],url:dE,height:cm},nzzId:cn,url:"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Fgesellschaft\u002Fdie-stadt-und-ihre-unbekannte-ld.1404519",dependencies:{js:[{componentIds:["doc-1cipb63k80","doc-1cipb63jg0","doc-1cipb63js0","doc-1cipb63j30","doc-1cipb63ik0","doc-1cipb63k30"],src:bd,namespace:be}]},layout:t,embeds:{images:[{caption:"Der Stadtteil Luzzatti, durch den uns Elena Ferrante in ihren Büchern führt, ist ein Neapel jenseits der Postkartenidylle. Ferrante selbst ist eine Autorin, die niemand kennt, aber alle lesen. (Bild: Ottavio Sellitti)",origins:[{identifier:"picture-1971571886",name:j}],url:dE},{caption:"Die Fassaden in Luzzatti wirken abweisend, die Strassen sind oft leer, schon um zehn Uhr morgens brennt die Sonne auf den Asphalt. (Bild: Ottavio Sellitti)",origins:[{identifier:"picture-1971632415",name:j}],url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002Fd9af087f-f81c-4b2c-b803-7c3b52987ae5.jpeg"},{caption:"Das Rione Luzzatti bietet Ferrante Stoff für den 2300 Seiten mächtigen vierteiligen Romanzyklus. Der vierte Band, «Die Geschichte des verlorenen Kindes», gibt es seit diesen März auch auf Deutsch. (Bild: Ottavio Sellitti)",origins:[{identifier:"picture-1971632392",name:j}],url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002Fd6793bbe-0977-44d9-8bb4-c946daefae7f.jpeg"},{caption:"Touristenführer warnen: Man solle nicht allein durch die Strassen von Luzzatti spazieren, schon gar nicht nachts. Einheimische sagen hingegen, die Kriminalität sei nicht höher hier als anderswo in der Stadt. (Bild: Ottavio Sellitti)",origins:[{identifier:"picture-1971632432",name:j}],url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F57138060-0985-43e3-ae8e-89b7b266f279.jpeg"},{caption:"Ferrantes Romanfigur, die junge Elena, fasst die Essenz einer Metropole wie Neapel träumerisch in Worte: «Wenn es keine Liebe gibt, vertrocknet nicht nur das Leben der Menschen, sondern auch das der Stadt.» (Bild: Ottavio Sellitti)",origins:[{identifier:"picture-1971632467",name:j}],url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F6ba05138-c97f-45f0-bda7-2dbcb38c139a.jpeg"},{caption:"Schon die Römer hätten Neapel den Eingang zur Hölle genannt, weil es zwischen zwei Vulkanen liege. Vielleicht vergrössert dieses Wissen die Schicksalsergebenheit im Rione Luzzatti und von Neapels Bewohnern überhaupt. 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Die Reise führt ihn über 2500 Kilometer quer durch Europa.","morpheus.barrier","morpheus.iframe","morpheus.footnote","morpheus.infobox-advanced","morpheus.sharebox","morpheus.article-metainfo","link-box-embed","gallery","video","fullwidth","alias-teaser","embed-teaser",4724,"ld.1404519","morpheus.moreToSubject--internal","moreToSubject--internal","Der französische Schriftsteller Gaspard Koenig reitet mit einer Stute von Bordeaux nach Rom – so, wie es vor über 400 Jahren der Philosoph Michel de Montaigne tat. Im Interview mit Claus Lochbihler erklärt er, wie es dazu kam und weshalb er jetzt nie wieder Tourist sein möchte.","2020-10-16T11:53:48.510Z","classification=default,relevance=germany,layout=longformstandard","Article","https:\u002F\u002Fjobs.nzz.ch\u002F","https:\u002F\u002Fabo.nzz.ch\u002Ffaq\u002Fkontakt","\u002Fdeutschland\u002Fmobilitaet","subscription","NZZ abonnieren","main","Startseite","Neuste Artikel","departments","brand","Amerika","Leserseite","\u002Fleserseite","extra","https:\u002F\u002Fzeitungsarchiv.nzz.ch","nzzbrands","NZZ am Sonntag Magazin","\u002Fnzz-am-sonntag-magazin","https:\u002F\u002Fbellevue.nzz.ch\u002F","\u002Ffolio","\u002Fgeschichte","dossiers","Marktplatz","https:\u002F\u002Fjobs.nzz.ch","Weiterbildung","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzzdomizil.ch","Trauerportal","https:\u002F\u002Ftrauer.nzz.ch","contact","Text\u002FBild-Lizenzen","https:\u002F\u002Fcorporate.nzz.ch\u002Fsyndication","AGB","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Fagb","https:\u002F\u002Fabo.nzz.ch\u002Fkampagne\u002F?lp=99002143&trco=20007930-04-24-0103-0029-005317-00000006","\u003Cp\u003EEs ist ein Fehler aufgetreten. Bitte prüfen Sie Ihre Internetverbindung oder versuchen Sie es später erneut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","bellevue","Der französische Schriftsteller Gaspard Koenig reitet mit einer Stute von Bordeaux nach Rom – so, wie es vor über 400 Jahren der Philosoph Michel de Montaigne tat. Im Interview mit Claus Lochbihler erklärt er, wie es dazu kam und weshalb er jetzt nie wieder Tourist sein möchte.","morpheus.header","doc-1ekjj5ada0","picture-2113962979","Erol Gurian ","iframe","doc-1ekjr8ife0","picture-2113962982","Der Schriftsteller und Philosoph Gaspard Koenig ist vorübergehend zum Wanderreiter geworden.","doc-1ekjj6fci0","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","picture-2113962978","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg","2020\u002F10\u002F14\u002F0a224217-47ba-427b-a7ea-17f6d7363947.jpeg","Gaspar Koenig: «Wenn man lernt, sich selbst genug zu sein, ist alles andere nur eine Zugabe oder ein Luxus.»","doc-1ekjjj6ua1","Imago","Michel de Montaigne (1533–1592) hielt seine Reise durch Europa in einem Tagebuch fest.","doc-1ekjj8c6g0","picture-2113962936","«Offenbar denken sich die Leute: Wenn er ein Pferd hat, um das er sich kümmert, kann er kein ganz übler Typ sein.»",60,"\u002Fthemen\u002Fdeutschland","Google","\u002Fthemen\u002Fgoogle","morpheus.moreToSubject","Die besten Reiseführer über Neapel sind die Romane von Elena Ferrante. Wir suchen die weltberühmte Autorin, die niemand kennt, weil sie sich in aller Öffentlichkeit verbirgt.",3733,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2018\u002F7\u002F19\u002F8a62030a-2dc5-499e-af07-4860071e399c.jpeg","70b2fb833e724139cc36734a21b98491","Auswärtige Autoren (AA)",1371759,"Wer in Sintra nicht verweilt, nur kurz durchläuft, findet das wirkliche Wesen der portugiesischen Stadt nicht. Denn sie ist mehr als eine fast in den Atlantik fallende Touristenattraktion am Rande Europas.",1278,"ld.1572335","Yannick Nock (yno)",1538747,"Wohin darf man überhaupt reisen? Wo braucht es ein Zertifikat? Und was gilt vor Ort? Die beliebtesten Länder im Reise-Check.",533,"ld.1558269",{},"2020-10-16T03:30:00.000Z",1985,"Erol Gurian ",{},3,100,{},"«Mit einem Pferd ist man nie allein»,Reisen, Nachrichten, NZZ","2020-10-16T15:53:48+02:00","2020-10-15T12:16:20+02:00",138008459595436,143694099006529,1592685173,{},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fnzz","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fnzz\u002F","online.redaktion@nzz.ch","2025 Neue Zürcher Zeitung AG, Schweiz","index, follow, noarchive, noodp, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1",{},Array(0),"de","Tue, 25 Feb 2025 06:19:13 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