Mary Portas's big plans for smalls | Life and style

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id="main-article-info"> <h1>Mary Portas's big plans for smalls</h1> <p id="stand-first" class="stand-first-alone">Retail guru's new channel 4 show will see her try to revitalise UK textile manufacturing through a posh underwear business</p> </div> <ul id="content-actions" class="share-links"> <li class="share-links"> <ul> <li class="full-line tweet tweet_button"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://gu.com/p/35maa/tw" data-via="guardian" data-counturl="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/24/mary-portas-big-plan-smalls" data-related="lifeandstyle" data-text="Mary Portas's big plans for smalls">Tweet this</a> </li> <li class="third-party-tool full-line facebook"> <span class="facebook-share"> <a class="facebook-share-btn" 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href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/vickyfrost"> Vicky Frost</a> </div> </li> <li class="publication"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/">guardian.co.uk</a>, <time datetime="2012-02-24T21:01GMT" pubdate>Friday 24 February 2012 21.01 GMT</time> </li> <li class="history js-show"> <a class="rollover history-link" href="#history-link-box">Article history</a> <div class="toolbox-popup" id="history-link-box" style="width: 460px"> <div class="send-inner"> <div class="share-top"> <h3>About this article</h3> <span><a class="close-toolbox" href="#history-link-box">Close</a></span> </div> <div class="section"> <h1>Mary Portas's big plans for smalls</h1> This article was published on <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/">guardian.co.uk</a> at <time datetime="2012-02-25T00:00GMT" pubdate>21.01 GMT on Friday 24 February 2012</time>. A version appeared on p8 of the <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2012/feb/25/mainsection">Main section</a> section of <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian">the Guardian</a> on <time datetime="2012-02-25" pubdate><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2012/feb/25">Saturday 25 February 2012</a></time>. It was last modified at <time datetime="2012-02-25T00:10GMT">00.10 GMT on Saturday 25 February 2012</time>. </div> </div> </div> </li> </ul> <div id="article-wrapper"> <div id="main-content-picture"> <img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/About/General/2011/5/18/1305735621975/Mary-Portas-007.jpg" width="460" height="276" alt="Mary Portas"/> <div class="caption">Mary Portas's new TV show will see her take on the underwear business. Photograph: Ian West/PA</div> </div> <div id="article-body-blocks"> <p>She has tackled independent businesses, charity shops and high-street retail for the cameras: a formidable one-woman advertisement for the power of branding, customer service and sharp, flame-coloured haircuts. But this time <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/mary-portas" title="More from guardian.co.uk on Mary Portas">Mary Portas</a> has a rather softer target in mind: the great British bottom – or at least, what covers it.</p><p>Portas's new <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/channel4" title="More from guardian.co.uk on Channel 4">Channel 4</a> show, on next month, will see her trying to revitalise UK textile manufacturing through knickers.</p><p>Made with Nottingham lace, the retail expert's Kinky Knickers range – priced at £10 for a beautifully packaged pair – have been made in the newly re-opened sewing room of a factory in Middleton, near Manchester.</p><p>The price puts Portas's pants among the posher knicker-drawer purchases. But the presenter thinks that is where British-made clothing should pitch itself.</p><p>"Should we compete with the sweatshops who can make knickers more cheaply? No. That's not what we should do morally as a nation," said Portas. "But we can compete with the Marks & Spencer, John Lewis and Boots [market]. That's where I believe we can genuinely compete."</p><p>Portas seems unfazed by launching a quality product in a recession. "We've got a consumer today who thinks she'll buy less rather than buying cheaper. She'll buy less and buy better," she said.</p><p>Nightwear manufacturers Headen & Quarmby, which stopped producing garments in Britain eight years ago, has recruited eight apprentices, who earned the minimum wage while training, to make the knickers using British-made lace.</p><p>The margins are admittedly not big, admitted Lynn Birkbeck, who oversees production at the company founded by her parents. But the figures do add up, with retailers including Liberty, Selfridges and Marks & Spencer all placing orders.</p><p>And Portas, who calls herself "extremely patriotic", hopes British knickers could go international: "I believe we can build a serious empire here."</p><p>But even for a woman as determined as Portas, helping Britain's long-declining textile manufacturing industry to a great profit will be quite a stretch.</p><p>Tim Leunig, chief economist at the CentreForum thinktank, said: "Most of the value in an expensive pair of knickers is already in Britain, even if the actual knickers are produced in China or another low-wage economy," said Tim Leunig, Chief Economist at the CentreForum think tank.</p><p>"Nevertheless, it is slightly better for Britain if the knickers are produced here. 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<div class="bd"> <div class="two-col edge"> <p class="b4 t6">Related</p> <ul class="l1d"> <li> <p class="t6 web-publication-date">14 Jun 2009</p> <p class="t7"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/14/mary-portas-charity-shops?INTCMP=ILCNETTXT3487">This much I know</a> </p> </li><li> <p class="t6 web-publication-date">17 May 2011</p> <p class="t7"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/may/17/queen-shops-revive-uk-high-street?INTCMP=ILCNETTXT3487">'Queen of Shops' brought in to help save UK high street</a> </p> </li><li> <p class="t6 web-publication-date">13 Dec 2011</p> <p class="t7"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2011/dec/13/mary-portas-report-recommendations?INTCMP=ILCNETTXT3487">Portas report: key recommendations</a> </p> </li><li> <p class="t6 web-publication-date">15 Jul 2008</p> <p class="t7"> <a 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article was published on <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/">guardian.co.uk</a> at <time datetime="2012-02-25T00:00GMT" pubdate>21.01 GMT on Friday 24 February 2012</time>. 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Find out more in <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/help/insideguardian/2010/feb/03/zeitgeist">our blog post</a>.</p> </div> </li> </ol> </div> <div class="att-tabs att-toggle-pane initially-off" id="att-latest"> <p class="b2 zg-date">Last 24 hours</p> <ol> <li class="l1 thumb"> <img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Observer/Pix/pictures/2012/2/22/1329922153128/Couple-Clinking-Glasses-b-003.jpg"/> <span class="rank">1. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/26/katharine-whitehorn-manners-academics-belching">Manners maketh what?</a> </li> <li class="l1"> <span class="rank">2. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/26/gay-dad-skiing-boys-tricky">Gay Dad</a> </li> <li class="l1"> <span class="rank">3. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/26/mariella-frostrup-university-gang-couples">Dear Mariella</a> </li> <li class="l1"> <span class="rank">4. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/26/jay-rayner-restaurant-greek-street">Restaurant review: 10 Greek Street</a> </li> <li class="l1"> <span class="rank">5. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/26/nigel-slater-classic-pea-soup">Nigel Slater's classic pea and ham soup</a> </li> <li class="more-latest l1 footer"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/all">All today's stories</a> </li> </ol> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component component-wrapper four-col" data-component="comp: Shopping reader offers : Reader offers on Technology blog"> <div class="reader-offers promo-component"> <div class="hd"> <h3>Homeware from the Guardian shop</h3> </div> <div class="bd"> <ul> <li class="inline-pic"><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianoffers.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/GuardianOffers/E757/361357" class="link-image"> <img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://www.guardianoffers.co.uk/mall/GOSelective/customerimages/products/t_E757.jpg" alt="Neoprene gloves"/> </a></li> <li><p class="t6"><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianoffers.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/GuardianOffers/E757/361357">Neoprene gloves</a></p></li> <li><p>Banish cold hands and aching joints with these lightweight, fingerless unisex gloves. </p></li> <li><p class="price">From: £9.95</p></li> </ul> </div> <div class="ft"> <ul> <li><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianoffers.co.uk/mall/departmentpage.cfm/GuardianOffers/_119305/1/Household">Browse more homeware offers</a></li> <li><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianoffers.co.uk/">Visit the Guardian reader offers shop</a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component component-wrapper four-col" data-component="microapp: twitter-app : Grouped Twitter Feed (Promo) : Twitter micro-app"> <div id="lifeandstyle" class="promo-component twitter-container" data-fetch-url="http://resource.guim.co.uk/twitter/jsonlist/lifeandstyle.jsonp" data-latest-tweet="173151570932924417"> <div class="hd"> <h3>Guardian life and style journalists</h3> </div> <div class="bd"> <p class="l2">Follow the latest life and style news, comment and analysis on Twitter</p> <ul> <li class="l1 tweet"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons"><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://a0.twimg.com/profile_images/1850967348/me_chanel_bw_normal.jpg" alt="helenseamons" height="40" width="40"/></a> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons"><strong>helenseamons:</strong></a> Yesterday <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/simonchilvers" target="_new">@simonchilvers</a> and I saw the Marni H&M; collection. We will be sharpening our elbows for these: <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://t.co/1KNv058U" target="_new">http://t.co/1KNv058U</a> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://search.twitter.com/search?q=%23fashion">#fashion</a></p> <span><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons/statuses/173151570932924417">about 1 day, 12 hours ago</a></span> </li> <li class="l1 tweet"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons"><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://a0.twimg.com/profile_images/1384468513/twitter_pic_normal.png" alt="helenseamons" height="40" width="40"/></a> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons"><strong>helenseamons:</strong></a> Prada took top billing at Milan but the buzz was about Raf Simons, reports <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/JessC_M" target="_new">@JessC_M</a> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://t.co/6DPuwkkZ" target="_new">http://t.co/6DPuwkkZ</a> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://search.twitter.com/search?q=%23fashion">#fashion</a></p> <span><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/helenseamons/statuses/172991328261636096">about 1 day, 23 hours ago</a></span> </li> <li class="l1 tweet"> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/guardiangardens"><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://a2.twimg.com/profile_images/372099466/G_twitter_lifenstyle_normal.jpg" alt="guardiangardens" height="40" width="40"/></a> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/guardiangardens"><strong>guardiangardens:</strong></a> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://t.co/oeHZ1Tfm" target="_new">http://t.co/oeHZ1Tfm</a> After yesterday's moss graffiti, how about a moss-covered chair? <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://search.twitter.com/search?q=%23gardens">#gardens</a></p> <span><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/guardiangardens/statuses/172743933821067264">about 2 days, 15 hours ago</a></span> </li> </ul> </div> <div class="ft">• <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardian.co.uk/twitter/list/lifeandstyle">Read the latest life and style tweets from our team</a><br>• <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://twitter.com/guardian/life-and-style-staff">Follow our journalists on a Twitter list</a></div> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component component-wrapper four-col" data-component="microapp: static : Eat Right Promo : Eat right on food"> <div class="promo-component eat-right-promo300"> <div class="hd"> <h3><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2010/8/9/1281365096394/logo_bmi_gu300grey.gif" alt="eatright - Your online dieting and healthy eating service"/> </h3> </div> <div class="bd"> <h4>Check your BMI</h4> <form action="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianeatright.co.uk/dietprofile2/dietprofile.cfm" method="get"> <input type="hidden" name="code" value="27135"/> <fieldset> <div class="eat-right-row"> <label for="wt_st">Weight:</label> <select id="wt_st" name="wt_st"> <option value="7">7 st</option> <option value="8">8 st</option> <option value="9">9 st</option> <option value="10">10 st</option> <option value="11">11 st</option> <option value="12" selected="selected">12 st</option> <option value="13">13 st</option> <option value="14">14 st</option> <option value="15">15 st</option> <option value="16">16 st</option> <option value="17">17 st</option> <option value="18">18 st</option> <option value="19">19 st</option> <option value="20">20 st</option> <option value="21">21 st</option> <option value="22">22 st</option> <option value="23">23 st</option> <option value="24">24 st</option> <option value="25">25 st</option> <option value="26">26 st</option> <option value="27">27 st</option> <option value="28">28 st</option> <option value="29">29 st</option> <option value="30">30 st</option> </select> <select id="wt_lb" name="wt_lb" class="noMarg"> <option value="0" selected="selected">0 lbs</option> <option value="1">1 lbs</option> <option value="2">2 lbs</option> <option value="3">3 lbs</option> <option value="4">4 lbs</option> <option value="5">5 lbs</option> <option value="6">6 lbs</option> <option value="7">7 lbs</option> <option value="8">8 lbs</option> <option value="9">9 lbs</option> <option value="10">10 lbs</option> <option value="11">11 lbs</option> <option value="12">12 lbs</option> <option value="13">13 lbs</option> </select> </div> <div class="eat-right-row"> <label for="htft">Height:</label> <select id="htft" name="htft"> <option value="4">4 ft</option> <option value="5" selected="selected">5 ft</option> <option value="6">6 ft</option> <option value="7">7 ft</option> </select> <select id="htin" name="htin" class="noMarg"> <option value="0">0 ins</option> <option value="1">1 ins</option> <option value="2">2 ins</option> <option value="3">3 ins</option> <option value="4">4 ins</option> <option value="5">5 ins</option> <option value="6">6 ins</option> <option value="7" selected="selected">7 ins</option> <option value="8">8 ins</option> <option value="9">9 ins</option> <option value="10">10 ins</option> <option value="11">11 ins</option> </select> </div> <div class="eat-right-row eat-right-radios"> <span>Gender: </span> <input id="genderf" name="gender" value="female" type="radio"/> <label for="genderf">Female</label> <input id="genderm" name="gender" value="male" type="radio"/> <label for="genderm">Male</label> </div> <div class="eat-right-row eat-right-submit"> <input type="submit" name="Submit" value="Start now"/> </div> </form> </div> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component component-wrapper four-col" data-component="microapp: static : Simplify Digital : Simplify Digital - Article"> <div class="simplify-digital-speed-checker"> <iframe src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319if_/http://assets.simplifydigital.co.uk/guardian/articlepages.htm" width="300" height="400" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component component-wrapper four-col" data-component="microapp: tickets : Tickets (3 items) promo : Tickets Component"> <div id="g-tickets-wrapper"> <style> .g-tickets img{float:left;margin-right:10px;} .g-tickets li{margin-top:10px;} .g-tickets li p,.g-tickets li form,.g-tickets .book-link{margin-left:70px;} .g-tickets .event-name{border-top:1px dotted #999;width:210px;padding-top:5px;font-weight:700;} .g-tickets.component .event-name{width:229px;} .g-tickets .book-link{margin-top:3px;} .g-tickets .strapline{margin: 0px 0 20px;} .g-tickets.component .find-tickets{width:300px;} .g-tickets .find-tickets{border-top:1px dotted #999;margin-top:20px;padding-top:5px;float:left;width:100%;} .g-tickets .search-tickets{display:block;} .g-tickets .find-tickets input{margin:20px 0;} .g-tickets li,.g-tickets .browse-tickets{float:left;} .news-grid .g-tickets .hd{margin-bottom:0;min-height:18px;width:300px;padding-bottom:0;} .news-grid .g-tickets .bd{float:left;background-color:#ededed;width:290px;padding:0 5px 20px;} .news-grid .g-tickets .strapline{margin-bottom:10px;margin-top:0;} .news-grid .g-tickets .event-name{width:219px;} .news-grid .g-tickets .browse-tickets{width:100%;} .news-grid .g-tickets{overflow:hidden;} </style> <div class="g-tickets promo-component"> <div class="hd"><h3>Buy tickets for top music events</h3></div> <div class="bd"> <p class="strapline">Compare and buy tickets for thousands of events</p> <ol> <li> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/blur-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411"><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://maxcdn.tixdaq.com/theme/img/metadata/attraction/120x120/5837.png" alt="Blur Tickets" height="60" width="60" class="image"/></a> <p class="event-name"><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/blur-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Blur Tickets</a></p> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/blur-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Sunday, 12 Aug, 2012</a></p> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/blur-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Hyde Park - London</a></p> <form action="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/blur-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411" method="GET"> <input value="Book" type="submit"/> </form> </li><li> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/latitude-festival-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411"><img src="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319im_/http://maxcdn.tixdaq.com/theme/img/metadata/attraction/120x120/2725.png" alt="Latitude Festival Tickets" height="60" width="60" class="image"/></a> <p class="event-name"><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/latitude-festival-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Latitude Festival Tickets</a></p> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/latitude-festival-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Thursday, 12 Jul, 2012</a></p> <p><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardiantickets.co.uk/latitude-festival-tickets/?INTCMP=ILCCULTXT3411">Henham Park - Southwold</a></p> <form 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href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianbookshop.co.uk/BerteShopWeb/viewProduct.do?ISBN=9780099564935" class="book-title">Greatcoat</a> <p> by Helen Dunmore <span class="price">£9.99</span> </p> </li> <li class="l1"> <span class="rank">5. </span> <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianbookshop.co.uk/BerteShopWeb/viewProduct.do?ISBN=9781611856071" class="book-title">Full Service</a> <p> by Scotty Bowers <span class="price">£16.99</span> </p> </li> </ol> </div> <div class="search"> <p> Search the Guardian bookshop </p> <form method="POST" action="http://web.archive.org/web/20120226095319/http://www.guardianbookshop.co.uk/BerteShopWeb/search.do" name="QuickSearchForm"> <input type="text" class="searchBox" value="" name="keyword"> <button class="searchBtn" type="submit"> <span class="searchText">Search</span> </button> <input type="hidden" value="" name="author"> </form> </div> </div> </div> </span> <span class="trackable-component 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