歡迎光臨白教堂｜香噴噴的咖哩，巨大的清真寺：剎那間，還以為自己不小心離開了倫敦

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data-feature-article="0" data-r18-content="0" data-alcohol-content="0" > <section class="header-box">  <div class="titles d-flex flex-column-reverse"> <div class="title"> <h1 id="article-title-191994">歡迎光臨白教堂｜香噴噴的咖哩，巨大的清真寺：剎那間，還以為自己不小心離開了倫敦</h1> </div> <h2 class="sub font-AB">Whitechapel District</h2> </div> <div class="info"> <div class="categories font-FO"> <a href="https://everylittled.com/category/travel">Travel</a> </div> <time class="date">24 Sep, 2024</time> <div class="author"> <a href="https://everylittled.com/author/felixculpa-elanor">Elanor Wang</a> </div> </div> <div class="line"></div> </section> <figure class="cover-photo"> <img src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/1967e65f-5ddb-494a-8036-a6cbc6e8eaad.jpg" srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/1967e65f-5ddb-494a-8036-a6cbc6e8eaad.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/1967e65f-5ddb-494a-8036-a6cbc6e8eaad.jpg 770w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/1967e65f-5ddb-494a-8036-a6cbc6e8eaad.jpg 1280w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 950px, 100vw" alt="歡迎光臨白教堂｜香噴噴的咖哩，巨大的清真寺：剎那間，還以為自己不小心離開了倫敦" class="img-cover" > <p class="source"> Photo Credit: Shutterstock / 達志影像 </p> </figure> <section class="article-content-wrapper" data-io-article-url="https://everylittled.com/article/191994" itemprop="articleBody"> <div class="article-detail"> <p> 從地鐵白教堂（Whitechapel）站下車時，你興許環顧四周，驚嘆著這一區有點、可能不只有點，沒那麼「倫敦」。 </p> </div> <div id="article-content-191994" class="article-content"> <p class="p1 ck-section">從地鐵白教堂（Whitechapel）站下車時，你興許環顧四周，驚嘆著這一區有點、可能不只有點，沒那麼「倫敦」。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">白教堂這莊嚴的名字可以追溯到14世紀，其命名來自於如今已經不復存的「聖瑪麗費隆教堂」（St Mary Matfelon）。據過去的資料表示，白教堂此一暱稱，來自於教堂的外牆被白色的石灰粉一遍又一遍刷過。</p><div class="js-advertise ad-content" style="min-height:326px"> <div class="js-SingleAd "> <div class="tmgad tmgad-type-flux tmgad-new"> <script type="application/json">{"targeting":{"advertising":["0"],"cabinet":["728070"],"page_key":["article"],"page_name":["article"],"author_key":["felixculpa-elanor"],"author_name":["Elanor Wang"],"category_key":["travel"],"category_name":["\u65c5\u884c"],"column_key":["london"],"column_name":["\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357"],"tag_key":["91032","115596","187858","224032","362953","362954","362955","362956","362957","362958","362959","362960","362961","362962"],"tag_name":["\u6771\u502b\u6566","\u958b\u819b\u624b\u5091\u514b","Whitechapel","\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357","\u767d\u6559\u5802\u8b00\u6bba\u6848","St Mary Matfelon","\u767d\u6559\u5802","Altab Ali Park","Tayyab","\u767d\u6559\u5802\u756b\u5eca","Whitechapel Gallery","Robbrecht en Daem architecten","Freedom Press","\u7121\u653f\u5e9c\u51fa\u7248\u793e"]},"type":"flux","slot":"\/21870649235\/eld_a_p2","size":[[640,480],[640,360],[320,480],[300,250],[1,1]],"mapping":[[[1024,0],[[640,480],[640,360],[1,1]]],[[0,0],[[320,480],[300,250],[1,1]]]],"name":"eld_a_p2"}</script> </div> </div> </div> <p class="p1 ck-section">然而對於教堂當初的外觀我們無已從得知了，因為在閃電戰期間，德軍的空襲炸毀了聖瑪麗費隆教堂，戰後教堂被拆除，如今為<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altab_Ali_Park" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">「阿爾塔布阿里公園」</a>（Altab Ali Park）。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">但白教堂的名字留下來了，在漫長的歷史中，這區也漸漸發展成一個和當初截然不同、一點都不白的區域。</p><h3 class="p1 ck-section">從猶太族裔的移民社區開始說起</h3><figure class="image image-type-fluid ck-section"><img data-bucket-id="2725846" width="907" height="642" alt="GettyImages-464789611" class=" lazyload" data-sizes="auto" data-src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/977c35e7-abdf-4c6e-8566-d33463410af0.jpg" data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/977c35e7-abdf-4c6e-8566-d33463410af0.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/977c35e7-abdf-4c6e-8566-d33463410af0.jpg 770w"><p class="source ">Photo Credit: GettyImages</p></figure><p class="p3 ck-section">出生自白教堂地區的英國作家<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernard_Kops" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bernard Kops</a>曾說：「這個東區就像是奧運火炬，從一個社群交到另一個社群手中。」（This East End. It is like an Olympic torch, handed from one community to the next）</p><p class="p1 ck-section">17世紀起，城市逐漸發展，吸引附近農村的人來到倫敦，而彼時還在城市外圍的白教堂逐漸聚集了皮革製造作坊、染坊、啤酒廠、屠宰場、洗衣店與鑄鐘廠等，勞力密集但污染較高的產業，供應城內人們富裕生活的同時，也將難聞的味道隔絕在倫敦城外，留在白教堂中。</p><div class="js-advertise ad-content" style="min-height:326px"> <div class="js-SingleAd "> <div class="tmgad tmgad-type-general tmgad-new"> <script type="application/json">{"targeting":{"advertising":["0"],"cabinet":["728070"],"page_key":["article"],"page_name":["article"],"author_key":["felixculpa-elanor"],"author_name":["Elanor Wang"],"category_key":["travel"],"category_name":["\u65c5\u884c"],"column_key":["london"],"column_name":["\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357"],"tag_key":["91032","115596","187858","224032","362953","362954","362955","362956","362957","362958","362959","362960","362961","362962"],"tag_name":["\u6771\u502b\u6566","\u958b\u819b\u624b\u5091\u514b","Whitechapel","\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357","\u767d\u6559\u5802\u8b00\u6bba\u6848","St Mary 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data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/0e0a420d-1553-45d3-b150-125ff831e974.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/0e0a420d-1553-45d3-b150-125ff831e974.jpg 770w"><p class="source ">Photo Credit: GettyImages</p></figure><p class="p1 ck-section">然而，白教堂區的生猛活潑雖成為區域特色，但另一方面也因為移民來來去去，人口組成複雜，官方無從管制，成為犯罪的溫床。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">19世紀末，著名的<a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-tw/%E9%96%8B%E8%86%9B%E6%89%8B%E5%82%91%E5%85%8B" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">「白教堂謀殺案」</a>發生，連環殺手開膛手傑克從此成為倫敦歷史上黑暗的一頁，蘇格蘭警場的恥辱象徵，也是全球娛樂文化不斷翻玩的角色。</p><div class="js-advertise ad-content" style="min-height:326px"> <div class="js-SingleAd "> <div class="tmgad tmgad-type-flux tmgad-new"> <script type="application/json">{"targeting":{"advertising":["0"],"cabinet":["728070"],"page_key":["article"],"page_name":["article"],"author_key":["felixculpa-elanor"],"author_name":["Elanor Wang"],"category_key":["travel"],"category_name":["\u65c5\u884c"],"column_key":["london"],"column_name":["\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357"],"tag_key":["91032","115596","187858","224032","362953","362954","362955","362956","362957","362958","362959","362960","362961","362962"],"tag_name":["\u6771\u502b\u6566","\u958b\u819b\u624b\u5091\u514b","Whitechapel","\u502b\u6566\u5c0f\u773e\u6307\u5357","\u767d\u6559\u5802\u8b00\u6bba\u6848","St Mary Matfelon","\u767d\u6559\u5802","Altab Ali Park","Tayyab","\u767d\u6559\u5802\u756b\u5eca","Whitechapel Gallery","Robbrecht en Daem architecten","Freedom Press","\u7121\u653f\u5e9c\u51fa\u7248\u793e"]},"type":"flux","slot":"\/21870649235\/eld_a_p10","size":[[640,480],[640,360],[320,480],[300,250],[1,1]],"mapping":[[[1024,0],[[640,480],[640,360],[1,1]]],[[0,0],[[320,480],[300,250],[1,1]]]],"name":"eld_a_p10"}</script> </div> </div> </div> <p class="p1 ck-section">當地店家與團體以開膛手傑克為名規劃黑暗之旅，帶著觀眾一一走訪過去的命案現場，聽來興奮，只是站在黑暗中聽那細細的案情描述，想來也不免有點陰風陣陣。</p><h3 class="p1 ck-section">20世紀，孟加拉社群的崛起</h3><figure class="image image-type-fluid ck-section"><img data-bucket-id="2725848" width="1024" height="701" alt="GettyImages-52967728" class=" lazyload" data-sizes="auto" data-src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/36c8293d-1e8b-400a-a322-812e9b154c4d.jpg" data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/36c8293d-1e8b-400a-a322-812e9b154c4d.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/36c8293d-1e8b-400a-a322-812e9b154c4d.jpg 770w"><p class="source ">Photo Credit: GettyImages</p></figure><p class="p1 ck-section">如果說19世紀的白教堂區是猶太人的天下，那20世紀就是孟加拉社群了。走出白教堂站，迎面而來的是一整條露天市集，小販販賣著斑斕的紗麗、香噴噴的咖哩、煎餅（Paratha）和炸甜麵圈（Jelebi），各種閃閃發光的電鍍首飾、雜貨日用品和生鮮蔬果攤開來大搖大擺在街道展示。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">人們操著各種語言和口音交談，而往對街看更是一棟巨大的清真寺，剎那間還以為自己不小心離開倫敦了。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">1970年代，由於孟加拉國內局勢動盪，許多孟加拉人逃離母國，落腳前殖民國倫敦，特別是白教堂區，形塑出當地獨特風情。</p><figure class="image image-type-fluid ck-section"><img data-bucket-id="2725850" width="1440" height="956" alt="410217323_847457427163323_3045526333378906336_n" class=" lazyload" data-sizes="auto" data-src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/e94d9189-7098-41a1-923c-d609c8f39410.jpg" data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/e94d9189-7098-41a1-923c-d609c8f39410.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/e94d9189-7098-41a1-923c-d609c8f39410.jpg 770w"><p class="source "><a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=847457437163322&set=pb.100056972217296.-2207520000&type=3" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Photo Credit: Tayyabs</a></p></figure><p class="p1 ck-section">如果不愛攤販，當地朋友推薦旁遮普餐廳<a href="https://www.instagram.com/1tayyabs/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">「Tayyabs」</a>，那裡無論是烤羊肉串、烤餅、坦都里烤雞、層次分明的咖哩和烤餅都好吃到不行，唯一缺點就是辣得很，需要點壺滿滿的芒果拉西來穩定味蕾。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">孟加拉社群的繁榮背後亦有著哀傷的故事，前述的阿爾塔布阿里公園便來自於1978年的慘劇。彼時三個青少年在公園邊上，以種族歧視為名攻擊並謀殺剛從工廠下班的孟加拉移民Altab Ali。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">這件事引起來當地孟加拉社群大規模的抗爭，最後公園重新以他命名記念。如今白教堂這一帶約有三分之一的人口為孟加拉族裔，只是他們也還是倫敦最貧困的社群之一。</p><h3 class="p1 ck-section">座落在兩極街景中的「白教堂畫廊」</h3><figure class="image image-type-fluid ck-section"><img data-bucket-id="2725853" width="1000" height="664" alt="shutterstock_680199721" class=" lazyload" data-sizes="auto" data-src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/edbb863d-bd80-4fb4-b5a9-50a94d6f5c3b.jpg" data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/edbb863d-bd80-4fb4-b5a9-50a94d6f5c3b.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/edbb863d-bd80-4fb4-b5a9-50a94d6f5c3b.jpg 770w"><p class="source ">Photo Credit: Shutterstock / 達志影像</p></figure><p class="p1 ck-section">有時走在白教堂一帶，不免會感到錯亂，一邊是族群混雜的街道，一邊又是時髦人們匯聚的紅磚巷（Brick Lane），而座落在此中間的<a href="https://www.whitechapelgallery.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">「白教堂畫廊」</a>（Whitechapel Gallery），看那展覽清單和書店的擺設似乎又有點文藝過頭。但其實回溯白教堂畫廊的歷史，才發現它的出現其實是針對窮人公眾教育的慈善事業。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">在19世紀末，由於移民暴增造成白教堂居住空間不堪負荷，移民們被迫擠在破破擁擠的廉價房屋中，居住條件差、衛生問題頻傳，傳染病橫生，其貧困狀況引起了政府當局與慈善團體注目。 </p><p class="p1 ck-section">Samuel & Henrietta Barnet夫婦起身解決問題，他們不只募款蓋了新的居住空間，更主導白教堂畫廊和圖書館的建造。當時的建築風格呼應著<a href="https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-tw/%E5%A8%81%E5%BB%89%C2%B7%E8%8E%AB%E9%87%8C%E6%96%AF" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">威廉莫里斯</a>（William Morris）的美術工藝運動，試圖以工整的格局與飽滿的細節，來將藝術教育落實在貧困社區之中。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">日後使用時不免有所改造，而在2003至2009年的改建計畫中，建築事務所<a href="https://robbrechtendaem.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Robbrecht en Daem architecten</a>特別回溯原始的建築設計，希望召喚回那個曾經大方為貧民們提供免費書本與美術教育的美麗所在，其改造計劃詳情可參考建築事務所官網的<a href="https://robbrechtendaem.com/thoughts/the-collective-imagination-of-the-city-the-whitechapel-gallery-in-the-past-and-future-east-end" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">文章</a>。</p><h3 class="p3 ck-section">回應當地情況的「無政府書店」</h3><figure class="image image-type-fluid ck-section"><img data-bucket-id="2725856" width="1080" height="700" alt="264324643_2844753079106690_4372850373383909625_n" class=" lazyload" data-sizes="auto" data-src="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/63eddf30-e8e8-4a48-86f3-5a237b146640.jpg" data-srcset="https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/mobile/1/image/2024/09/63eddf30-e8e8-4a48-86f3-5a237b146640.jpg 360w, https://bucket-image.inkmaginecms.com/version/desktop/1/image/2024/09/63eddf30-e8e8-4a48-86f3-5a237b146640.jpg 770w"><p class="source "><a href="https://www.facebook.com/freedombookshop/photos/pb.100057486466435.-2207520000/2844753085773356/?type=3" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Photo Credit: Freedom Bookshop</a></p></figure><p class="p1 ck-section">除了白教堂畫廊外，有一間出版社的成立也直接回應當地的情況。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">1886年，<a href="https://freedom.press/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">「無政府出版社」</a>（Freedom Press）在白教堂成立。他們認為英國的貧困程度遠遠超出其他資本主義國家。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">特別是白教堂區的人們，深陷勞動剝削、貧困、無家可歸、賣淫以及嬰兒死亡率特別高的苦難，自此他們長期發行《自由》月刊，並翻譯和進口世界各地的書籍、推廣無政府主義和社會主義的小冊子，甚至主導社會運動。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">至今社會條件改變，他們仍舊持續營運，倡導著反戰以及人們應該要平等地位社工作，不應該由少數人統治等理念。其實體書店位在白教堂畫廊旁的小巷內，他們同時營運自己的線上檔案庫，而出版社的眾多紙本檔案也由倫敦的Bishopsgate Library和大英圖書館保存。</p><p class="p1 ck-section">來一趟白教堂吧，感受一下不那麼典型的倫敦。</p><h3 class="p1 ck-section" style="margin-left:0px;"><strong>訂閱every little d.</strong><a href="https://everylittled.com/newsletter" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><strong>電子報</strong></a><strong>，看更多生活細節</strong></h3><p class="ck-section" style="margin-left:auto;">同場加映</p><ul><li><a href="https://everylittled.com/article/163464" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">倫敦博物館以高規格保全展出的不是藝術品，而是Fatberg——超大型下水道廢物</a></li><li><a href="https://everylittled.com/article/190436" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">我們家安全系統根本沒在運作喔：前館員監守自盜，大英博物館到底有多好偷？</a></li><li><a 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