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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 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xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' 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type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" alt="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a 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Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjq60y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjq60y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762265},"p0bpz96n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bpz96n","_id":"62df814d43d9f4573d6a6881","copyright":"R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbp\u002Fz9\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening (Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","title":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bpz96n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762265}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","_id":"62df80d943d9f458711cdc5c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For three years in a row, Sweden's second-largest city has been declared the world's most sustainable destination.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast September, I visited Greta Thunberg's Nordic homeland. When I arrived in her hometown of Stockholm, I just missed the celebrated young Swedish climate activist as she’d departed by solar-powered yacht to attend the UN Climate Summit in New York. But I did come to understand why Sweden is a global leader in the tourism-sustainability movement, and why Gothenburg, its second-largest city, has been named a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fgrowth\u002Fcontent\u002Fmalaga-and-gothenburg-announced-2020-european-capitals-smart-tourism_en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Capital of Smart Tourism 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the European Commission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated on Sweden’s scenic west coast, the former industrial port town was not always so environmentally conscious. That changed in the mid-1980s, when Sweden’s minister of the environment, Birgitta Dahl, toured Gothenburg and declared the decaying and dirty blue-collar city “a courtyard to hell”. Properly chastened, political and business leaders vowed to transform the gritty 17th-Century city into a beacon of urban sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat effort, in part the result of widespread community engagement, seems to have worked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gothenberg is a glass and cast-iron greenhouse with towering palms and exotic plants. It is blue-and-white electric trams scooting along the streets, past locals riding bikes. It is roasted coffee, craft beer, some of world’s best seafood and a dozen varieties of vegan “milk”. It is Dutch-built canals, lush urban parks and cobblestone streets, where you can walk from your hotel to shopping, restaurants and nightlife. It is a ferry that takes you across the Götaälv river to a free sauna and public pool, where the water is cleaned entirely without chlorine and the changing rooms are made of recycled bottles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Greta is a really important voice in our time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is no wonder that, for three years in a row, Gothenburg has been declared the world’s most sustainable destination by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gds-index.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Destination Sustainability Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Even its once-grungy harbour has been cleaned up. In 2011, the port received the Shipping Award for Regional Environmental Contribution, and was the first in the world to provide onshore power to vessels at berth, reducing carbon emissions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171102-why-sweden-is-relocating-an-entire-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Sweden is relocating an entire town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200114-the-glitzy-european-city-going-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe glitzy European city going green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170818-the-swedish-word-thats-displacing-hygge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish word poached by the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause of Thunburg’s global presence in the climate crisis that started with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-49918719\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eher 2018 protest outside the Swedish Parliament\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I wondered about Thunburg’s influence in Gothenburg. “Greta is a really important voice in our time,” said Katarina Thorstensson, head of sustainability at the local tourism board, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoteborgco.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoteborg & Co\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Of course, she affects us all, in different ways. I think the travel industry in Gothenburg is well aware of the importance of sustainability, since we’ve been working quite a while with these issues. But Greta has clarified the urgency of levelling up in all industries.” Notably, Thorstensson said, she is “bringing courage to young people to raise their voice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat was evident even during my visit, when Thunberg \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fgretathunberg\u002Fstatus\u002F1177590095458852865?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E “Goteborg!” with the hashtags #ClimateStrike and #FridaysForFuture to cheer on the hundreds of activists protesting in late September.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring my visit, I encountered Gothenburg’s sustainability ethos from the moment my train from Helsingborg slid into the Central Station. With its convenient location, the city’s main transportation hub was steps from my hotel, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fclarion-hotel-post\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClarion Hotel Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a grand old post office with elements of its original architecture. The local tourism board touts that more than 90% of its hotels are eco-certified, meaning they must meet environmental and sustainability standards set by regional organisations, and here, tiny shampoo bottles, plastic cutlery and straws were long gone, a sign of the hotel’s drive to forgo plastic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotel-eggers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eggers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sweden’s third-oldest hotel, has similarly been remodelled in Greta-like fashion, sourcing its electricity from its own wind turbine on the coast and strictly regulating fossil fuels, chemical products and waste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn my hotel rooftop, I discovered an organic vegetable garden planted by urban farmers as part of an emerging “hyperlocal” produce movement. Visitors to the city can join urban safaris to learn more about local food production on a tour of the city’s several urban farms and gardens, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kajodlingen.se\u002Fenglish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKajodlingen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a commercial vegetable farm atop a pier in the industrial area of Frihamnen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Gothenburg’s advantages is its intimacy and accessibility. To explore the compact city, I had many eco- friendly options. I could rent a bike from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fstyr-och-stall\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStyr & Stall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a bike-sharing system with 72 stations. I could try \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002FWeelo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean electric scooter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and get praised via the app for choosing this “carbon-neutral” ride). I could hop on one of the city’s 260 electric trams, many of them named after famous Gothenburg citizens, or enjoy the sights from a quiet, zero-emission electric bus. Currently, 65% of Gothenburg’s public transportation hums on renewable energy, with the goal of making it fully electric is by 2030.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe other choice I had was to walk, which I happily did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGothenburg wouldn’t be truly green, of course, without its proximity to nature. Surrounded by thick forests of linden and beech, the city offers a hefty 274 sq m of green space per citizen. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fbotaniska-tradgarden\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBotanical Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fslottsskogen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlottsskogen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city’s most beautiful parks, are wonderful to explore. At the latter, you’ll find tranquil meadows and wooded paths, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoteborg.se\u002Fwps\u002Fportal\u002Fenhetssida\u002Fslottsskogen\u002Fin-english\u002Fzoo\u002F!ut\u002Fp\u002Fz1\u002F04_Sj9CPykssy0xPLMnMz0vMAfIjo8ziTYzcDQy9TAy9DcIszQwcnfxNXU2cnI2CvQ31w8EKAgxdHA1NQAo8DN0MHANdzfyDXE0MDHxM9aOI0W-AAhwNnIKMnIwNDNz9jcjRj2wScfrxKIjCb3xBbigQOCoCABVUMJI!\u002Fdz\u002Fd5\u002FL2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden’s only free zoo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gnm.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoteburg Natural History Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which, oddly enough, claims to have the world’s only full-size taxidermy blue whale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, the city has created \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fgotaleden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGotaleden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a new and extensive hiking path that starts in Gothenburg and links up with various train stations along the 71km route. The end point is the small town of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fnext-to-gothenburg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlingsas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, often described as “the capital of Swedish \u003Cem\u003Efika\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (a beloved Swedish ritual, where people pause during the day to gather with friends over coffee and cake) as it has the most cafes per capita in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong the way, you can stop in the town of Floda to visit the much-loved restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgarveriet.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarveriet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has a locally sourced organic menu and a “zero-waste” policy. The restaurant is also part of an innovative program called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmeetthelocals.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“meet the locals”,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where visitors can experience the Swedish lifestyle and the region’s little-known sights and activities through residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETrue to the city’s green image, Gothenburg residents have avidly embraced sustainable fashion. You can find much of it in the charming neighbourhood of Haga. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fthrive\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThrive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for instance, sells only natural, organic or recycled clothing that is free of toxins and unfair labour practices. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nudiejeans.com\u002Fselection\u002Fmeanwhile-in-goteborg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENudie Jeans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the international brand that launched its successful line of sustainable jeans from Gothenburg, is located here, too. Flea markets abound, and they’re a great way to mingle with locals. The largest one, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmegaloppisimajorna\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMegaloppis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, occurs in the trendy Majorna district at the end of May.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with its fashion and hotels, eco-friendly restaurants are also easy to find. Vegetarian restaurants are plentiful, and a law requires that all meat sold in the municipality must be organically farmed. (KRAV, a regional organisation, certifies restaurants for animal health and toxic-free farming; look for KRAV-labelled eateries to confirm you’re being good to the environment.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Ftaverna-averna\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaverna Averna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a KRAV-endorsed Italian bistro in an old auction house, grows its own vegetables on the roof. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fupper-house\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUpper House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a one-star Michelin establishment, is perched on the 25th floor of the Gothia Towers, a huge luxury hotel and convention centre. Besides its magnificent view, the restaurant also maintains a roof-top garden and a beehive, with its honey used to sweeten cocktails served in the bar. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurangkoka.se\u002Fen\u002Frestaurant-koka\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKoka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another celebrated restaurant, plans its menu around the seasons, working with local farmers and seafood producers to provide the freshest ingredients. A recent seven-course menu featured, among other dishes, scallops with elderflower and leek followed by lingonberries with ice cream, mustard and caramel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut can Gothenburg maintain its lofty vision of sustainability, I wondered? Change was evident everywhere. As I walked towards the harbour from the historical town centre, past old buildings, alfresco cafes and small specialty shops, the skyline suddenly transformed. Glass and steel structures rose above the waterfront, and building cranes pierced the sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext year will be the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg2021.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E400th anniversary of Gothenburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the city has been busy preparing – running workshops with young people, hosting sustainable urban design conferences and consulting residents on sustainability projects that enhance life for locals. It seems like they’re well prepared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This work started in 2009, with focus groups and dialogue with the people of Gothenburg,” said Eva Lehmann, head of public relations for Goteburg & Co.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most exciting projects is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fjubileumsparken\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJubileumsparken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an urban park unfolding in the working-class Frihamnen neighbourhood, near the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fthe-sauna-in-frihamnen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoutdoor pool and sauna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The goal is to make the area a green and dynamic part of the inner city. Local residents have been busy designing new activities and projects here, including a “rain” playground for children built to accommodate the region’s frequent downpours. “This is a new approach to urban development, with people allowed to gradually take over the area and make it their own,” Lehmann said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, this building boom could dramatically change the city’s intimate feel, and perhaps even its ambition to create a greener city. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falvstaden.goteborg.se\u002Frivercity-gothenburg-open-to-the-world\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERiverCity Gothenburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a multi-million-dollar redevelopment project with office towers, apartments and shopping, is springing up along the waterfront. The massive construction is intended to house the city’s anticipated 250,000 new residents over the next 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Gothenburg seems to have planned for challenges to its sustainability goals, too. You have only to peruse the city’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falvstaden.goteborg.se\u002Frivercity-gothenburg-open-to-the-world\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblueprint for the future \u003C\u002Fa\u003E – including efforts to tackle the rising sea levels predicted in the next decade and prevent the river from flooding – to know they’re working on it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-02-24T21:05:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Is Gothenburg Europe's greenest city?","headlineShort":"From 'hell' to beacon of sustainability","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For three years in a row, Sweden's second-largest city has been declared the world's most sustainable destination.","summaryShort":"For three years, it's been declared the world’s most sustainable destination","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:45:02.712404Z","entity":"article","guid":"bd9ede12-363c-425b-a120-93c8acb68add","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T20:09:12.145383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762246},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","_id":"62df80b843d9f46d933fc99f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This picture-perfect medieval city is celebrating its 900th anniversary, but its innovative design makes it one of the world’s most sustainable and liveable cities.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“900 years young” reads the bold slogan emblazoned on the side of the tram as it rattles through Freiburg im Breisgau’s historical Old Town. Celebrating its 900th anniversary since originating as a merchant settlement in 1120, the medieval German city nestled at the foot of the Black Forest near the border triangle of Switzerland, France and Germany is arguably quite old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt does, however, have youth on its side. Around 10% of the city’s 220,000 residents attend the prestigious Albert Ludwig University, making the population one of Germany’s youngest. Mayor Martin Horn was just shy of 34 when he was inaugurated at Town Hall in 2018. And the colourful half-timbered houses and car-free cobblestone streets lining its Old Town are, in fact, relatively young, as they were faithfully reconstructed after World War Two bombings. These ingredients have all helped create a Freiburg that is one of Germany’s, if not the world’s, most liveable, progressive, sustainable and child-friendly cities. So, while the city reflects on its 900-year history, I’m here to find out what makes it a city of the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor most, the city’s sustainable turning point can be traced back to February 1975. Thousands of protestors camped out for nine months on a patch of land 30km north of Freiburg deep in the Black Forest. “The protest was peaceful at the time, deeply rooted in solidarity,” said Axel Mayer, who took part in the event and is now the managing director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bund.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBUND\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Federation for Environment and Nature Protection Germany). Though spearheaded by locals, the eclectic group of protesters grew to include left-wing activists, Alsatian winegrowers, skiers, German farmers, architects, doctors, educators, journalists, orchestral musicians and police officers, all united in their mission to stop construction of the proposed Wyhl nuclear power plant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the trucks rolled out nine months later, with construction permanently halted, this successful exemplar of citizen-led activism led Freiburg to become a breeding ground for alternative thinking and birthed a green movement. In the decades since, Freiburg has quickly developed as an environmental economics and solar research hub with a packed green CV:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 1994: Builds \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fattractions\u002Fthe-heliotrope\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeliotrope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: the world‘s first energy-plus house\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2002: Elects Germany’s first Green Party mayor, Dieter Salomon\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2002: Wins \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dubaiaward.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDubai International Best Practices\u003C\u002Fa\u003E award for sustainable development\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2010: Wins \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buildup.eu\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Ffreiburg-named-federal-capital-climate-protection-2010\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational award\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its climate protection efforts\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2012: Named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002F960267.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost sustainable city\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Germany\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2017: New \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Farchello.com\u002Fproject\u002Ffreiburg-town-hall#:~:text=World's%20first%20public%20net%2Dsurplus,net%2Dsurplus%2Denergy%20standard.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETown Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E becomes world’s first public building producing surplus energy\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELast year, Freiburg invited some 25,000 officials and urban planners from around the world to learn from these ground-breaking projects. Thanks to this sharing of knowledge, Padua, a sister city in northern Italy, has since installed Italy’s largest solar farm; while Madison in the US state of Wisconsin is currently planning the construction of a Sustainability Centre based on the Solar Centre in Freiburg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of these visitors were shown around by my guide for the day, Andrea Philipp from the sustainability agency \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aiforia.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAiforia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “We were running so many tours, sometimes four a day,” she told me. “We had to promise locals we wouldn’t run tours on Sundays anymore to give them a break.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With 400km of bike paths and twice as many bikes as cars, Freiburg is a cyclists’ paradise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe were at the Freiburg bike station, an imposing cylindrical building just behind the main train station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t own a car, and I don’t need one. You can cycle everywhere in Freiburg,” Philipp added, as I unlocked my rental bike. With 400km of bike paths and twice as many bikes as cars, Freiburg is a cyclists’ paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis intentional design can be traced back to the post-war period. While other German cities were focusing on rebuilding modern cities that put cars at the centre of future transport, planners in Freiburg took a different approach, centring their designs around public transport, thus widening the streets to accommodate trams and bike lanes, including large pedestrian zones. And at a time when much of Germany was building wide highways and sprawling car parks, Freiburg launched its first urban transport policy in 1969 focusing on environmentally-friendly modes of travel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter consulting the free \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002Fsite\u002FFreiburg\u002Fget\u002Fparams_E-598958076\u002F640891\u002F1910_green-city-map_english_web.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen City map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showing all of the city’s green initiatives, we began our tour, crossing the iconic blue \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Ffeel-freiburg\u002Fwiwilibruecke-wiwili-bridge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWiwilíbrücke bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and heading towards the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fmedia\u002Fevents\u002Ffarmer-s-market-cathedral-square-freiburg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFarmers Market in Cathedral Square\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In the shadows of the 13th-Century gothic tower, every morning (bar Sunday) the square bustles with local produce from 96 stallholders from the region. Much of the produce on offer is organic, owing to the city’s membership in Germany’s Bio-Städte collective that promotes organic farming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Growing up in Freiburg means that wherever you are, you see the mountains with the forest","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter sampling a 35cm \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-trip\u002Ffreiburg-food-drink\u002Fthe-lange-rote-long-red-sausage-freiburg-s-crispiest-emblem\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELange Rote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Long Red) sausage, the city’s favourite edible emblem, we left the Old Town along the FR1, a dedicated bike highway that carries the 15,000 cyclists who travel daily along its 10km route. As we rode alongside the fast-flowing Dreisam River, Philipp told me about a renaturation project that’s designed to be an environmental tit-for-tat to compensate for the nearby train line expansion. “They’re letting the river overflow on the right-hand side to double its size, and welcoming back birds and insects,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat makes Germans so orderly?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Gothenburg Europe's greenest city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn match days, a sea of football fans travel along the FR1 and descend on the 24,000-seat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fattractions\u002Fblack-forest-stadium-schwarzwald-stadion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchwarzwald-Stadion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Germany’s first solar-powered football stadium that’s home to local heroes SC Freiburg. Since solar panels were fitted to the grandstand roofs in 1993, the stadium has generated 250,000 kilowatt-hours per year, powering the stadium and feeding any excess back into the local grid. Borrowing this design ethos is the much-anticipated new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstadion.scfreiburg.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFreiburg Stadium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is integrating solar panels onto its roof and recycling energy generated from a nearby manufacturing plant to heat the stadium. Boasting 10,000 additional seats, it’s on track to host its first match by the end of 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor locals looking for more earthly pursuits, the surrounding Black Forest provides a welcome refuge. The vast mountain range hosts walking tracks, community gardens, allotment gardens, BMX runs and tiny forest cabins belonging to kindergartens. Freiburg native Konstantin Hoffmann remembers his childhood with this connection to nature fondly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Growing up in Freiburg means that wherever you are, you see the mountains with the forest,” he said. “When I was a child, the kindergarten often took us into the nearest forest. I would say because I had such an early binding to nature, the environment and sustainability is deeply rooted in my thoughts.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELying just 3km from the city centre, the much-celebrated planned suburban community of Vauban, has a similar environmentally conscious ethos at its heart. Here, civic involvement goes hand in hand with “collective building” – where citizens buy a piece of land together and build an apartment building themselves, instead of individually buying an apartment from a development company – and ambitious environmental policy. Basically, “people are more green, more alternative and more social,” Hoffmann said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVauban's 5,500 residents live in close-knit cooperatives, private households or social housing developments that cover the suburb's 40 hectares. All housing adheres to Freiburg’s low-energy building standard of 65 kWh\u002Fsq m, and the minimal energy that is brought in is generated locally from the wood-chip powered heating systems located in the neighbourhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBetween the rooftop gardens, food-sharing pantries, organic waste anaerobic digesters, conflict-resolution workshops and co-op supermarkets, it’s impossible to list every social project the community runs, so instead Philipp told me about the one thing it doesn’t have: cars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Vauban, car ownership sits at around 172 cars per 1,000 residents, compared to 393 in greater Freiburg and 531 in the nearby industrial metropolis of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStuttgart\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Many of the streets where you’d expect to see cars parked have been reimagined as playground cul-de-sacs for kids. Apparently, owning a car is the easiest way to commit social suicide in Vauban. “There are occasionally problems between neighbours if someone parks their car in the pick-up area for too long or doesn’t declare they own a car,” Philipp said. Others take it a step further, hiding their cars in neighbouring towns to avoid the accusatory glares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAcross town, 50 Bugginger Strasse is the address of one of the city’s most ambitious rejuvenation projects. The 16-storey high-rise looming overhead appears unremarkable, with its mixture of green- and aqua-panelled external balconies the only eye-catching elements. But Philipp explains that this is, in fact, the world's first passive energy high-rise, in which heat is produced from internal appliances, body heat, and things like lightbulbs rather than conventional heating systems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETen years ago, urban planners Stadtbau embarked on a massive redevelopment project that saw the original 90 apartments redesigned to accommodate 139 dwellings to combat Freiburg’s housing shortage. Through energy-saving lighting and lifts, solar panels, triple-glazed windows and a new passive exhaust heat system housed in the attic, they achieved a 78% reduction in energy use, bringing the 1968 Brutalist building inline with the city's aggressive standards. Social cohesion has even been considered. “If someone moves out, residents on each floor get to vote on who they want to move in. So, if you don’t want a neighbour who plays the guitar, you can say no,” laughed Philipp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETwo kilometres east, there is perhaps no greater proof of municipal commitment to sustainability than the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002F206652.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETown Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Inside, it’s light and bright, looking more like the spacious atrium of a modern shopping mall than a government office. Its exterior is clad with 4,000 sq m of solar modules, giving it the honour of the world’s first public plus-energy building – meaning it produces more energy than it needs and feeds the excess back into the city’s electric grid – when it opened in 2017. Conceived under the 16-year leadership of the former green mayor Dieter Salomon, the building’s solar panels produced 560 megawatt hours of electricity in its first year – equal to the annual usage of 140 four-person households.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, what does the future hold for a city already pushing the envelope? This Benjamin Button-esque city recorded more births than new arrivals last year, so it will continue to get younger as it ages. And with renewed targets at 50% less CO2 emissions by 2030 and 100% energy from renewable sources by 2050, Freiburg is continuing confidently towards an even greener tomorrow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-16T20:11:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Freiburg: Germany’s futuristic city set in a forest","headlineShort":"Is this Europe’s most liveable city?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This picture-perfect medieval city is celebrating its 900th anniversary, but its innovative design makes it one of the world’s most sustainable and liveable cities.","summaryShort":"This picture-perfect medieval city may show us how to live better","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:17.547894Z","entity":"article","guid":"b29e13fc-c557-4e00-b344-a378fdf72c86","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:11:25.140659Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762246},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","_id":"62df817043d9f458720357e9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Trailblazing scientists, architects and engineers are flocking to a sleepy Welsh town, where their environmental breakthroughs are changing – and helping to save – the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmid the mist-cloaked, forested slopes of the Dyfi Valley, outside the Welsh market town of Machynlleth, is a remarkable sight: a seemingly ramshackle collection of log cabins, old wind turbines, thatched huts, steel tubes and funicular railways, rising from the banks of a former slate quarry. It looks at once incongruous and perfectly at home; both organic and man-made, as if it had grown there like a strange bionic jungle from the seeds of industry long abandoned. Perhaps that's appropriate, given that the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECentre for Alternative Technology (CAT)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has spent the last half a century redefining the relationship between nature and humankind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs it prepares to celebrate its 50th birthday in 2023, its work has never been so urgent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECAT was founded in 1973 by an eclectic, experimental community of architects, engineers, builders and organic growers, led by businessman and environmentalist Gerard Morgan-Grenville. They felt compelled to seek alternative ways of living in response to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FArab-oil-embargo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean international oil crisis, ignited by the Yom Kippur War in Israel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, that saw governments across Europe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002Ffrom-the-archive-blog\u002F2020\u002Fnov\u002F04\u002Fnetherlands-introduces-car-free-sundays-archive-1973\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eban driving on Sundays\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and impose rations on heating. In 1975, a visitor centre was opened to increase public awareness and engagement, setting the tone for CAT's unique identity: part research centre, part tourist attraction and part educational hub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the centre offers master's degrees in fields such as green building, energy provision and sustainable food; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002Fmeet-cat-graduates\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emany CAT alumni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have gone on to be leaders in the sustainability field, such as architect Kirsty Cassels, voted Social Entrepreneur of the Year at 2019's Scottish Women's Awards, and solicitor Sonya Bedford, awarded an MBE for her contributions to community energy. The centre is marking its half-century milestone by embarking on an ambitious redevelopment project, modernising and scaling up both its visitor experience and educational offerings, while remaining open to the public. Visitors can get hands-on with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002Fvisiting\u002Fdays-out-events\u002F?date=upcoming&view=grid&type=Visitor-Centre&category=All#whats-on\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in sustainable building materials, woodland management, organic gardening and more; children particularly love the wildlife activities, such as pond-dipping, monitoring nest cams and laying moth traps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was met at reception by Rob Bullen, CAT's marketing manager, and Eileen Kinsman, interim co-CEO. We climbed aboard the funicular railway – one of the steepest in the world, with a gradient of 35 degrees. As a tank at the top filled with water, one at the bottom was emptied; gravity did the rest, and we were pulled up a sheer cliff with hydropower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch innovation is everywhere at CAT. I was shown rooms full of heat pumps and clanking biomass boilers; thick-walled, small-windowed homes built in the 1970s as models for sustainability\u003Cstrong\u003E;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E and a modern lecture hall with walls made of rammed earth, a lower-carbon alternative to concrete (the production of cement, a key ingredient in concrete, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclimate.mit.edu\u002Fexplainers\u002Fconcrete\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtributes to approximately 7% of all greenhouse gas emissions worldwide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). Small buildings pepper the grounds as standalone experiments, among them the \"Hairy Hut\", made from layered thatch and resembling Cousin Itt from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0505417\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAddams Family\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the most amazing things about CAT is the transformation of the slate quarry,\" said Kinsman. \"What was a brownfield site has been transformed into productive organic vegetable gardens and a wildlife haven.\" Pine martens, otters and dormice are among the animals that have returned. Young woodland smothers the floor of the former mining pit, with scattered pieces of rusting, skeletal hardware the only clues as to the quarry's former life. \"It's like the Lost World down there,\" said Bullen. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA bevy of green businesses have emerged as offshoots of CAT. Many innovations begin life as projects of CAT master's students; for example, the company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fadaptavate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdaptavate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which creates carbon-negative plaster and plasterboard, grew out of founder Tom Robinson's experiments while studying here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPointing out an unassuming-looking wooden shed, Kinsman said: \"That hut spun out a number of businesses, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdulas.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDulas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E [a renewable technology company]. That's where their solar-powered fridge was invented; nearly half Dulas' business now is solar-powered vaccine fridges.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to imagine a more vivid illustration of how CAT's innovations, once viewed as wacky by outsiders, have assumed crucial importance in the modern world, even to the point of rendering the centre's name somewhat obsolete. \"These technologies aren't alternative anymore,\" Bullen said. \"They're mainstream.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the first pioneers moved to CAT in the 1970s, their concerns, and those of the wider environmentalist movement, centred on limits to Earth's resources; by the 1990s and 2000s, the hole in the ozone layer and climate change had come to predominate. Since 2007, the emphasis has been on carbon, with CAT leading the charge to take Britain to net zero by 2040.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In response to the global climate crisis, sustainable solutions developed by CAT will hopefully help Wales and the UK achieve net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by the middle of this century,\" said Val Hawkins, chief executive of MWT Cymru tourism organisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMachynlleth has transformed in the decades since CAT's opening, turning from ancient market town into a haven for eco awareness. This is partly through the centre's creation of green businesses, which comprise a significant part of the local economy, but also through various other eco initiatives in the area. In 1977, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dyfibiosphere.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Dyfi Biosphere Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which encompasses Machynlleth and the surrounding Dyfi Valley, was established to protect the region's peat moorlands, sand dunes, beaches and woodland. Together, these habitats are home to red kites, dolphins and water buffalo, while nesting ospreys can be seen at the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitwales.com\u002Fattraction\u002Fzoo-farm-or-aquarium\u002Fdyfi-wildlife-centre-1670162\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDyfi Wildlife Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which re-opened in spring 2022 with a state-of-the-art, carbon-positive visitor building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMachynlleth's eco credentials have attracted luminaries who tie in with the area's longstanding reputation for alternative thinking, bohemianism and the arts. One erstwhile resident is the activist George Monbiot: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fprofile\u002Fgeorgemonbiot\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuardian columnist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of the bestselling rewilding book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F180\u002F180586\u002Fferal\u002F9780141975580.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and perhaps the most recognisable face in British environmentalism. Other famous faces have included Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, who wrote much Led Zeppelin material in a nearby cottage; while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoma.cymru\u002Fen\u002Fabout\u002Fthe-tabernacle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EY Tabernacl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E theatre and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoma.cymru\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Modern Art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are both acclaimed spaces dedicated to supporting local arts and promoting Welsh and Celtic culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany obituaries have been written for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-58433461\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe British high street\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in recent years. Not so Machynlleth, whose handsome main thoroughfare counts among its mainstays an organic foods shop, a natural health centre and an Ayurvedic chocolatier and apothecary. I turned from the window of the latter, advertising ashwagandha powder and triphala remedies, to see a man in a rainbow poncho, carrying a wizard's staff, walk into a branch of swanky paint merchants \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fthe-heritage-paints-that-rival-farrow-ball\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFarrow & Ball\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It's an image that sums up at least one facet of modern Machynlleth: an air of well-heeled bohemianism, shared with the likes of Glastonbury and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEast Grinstead\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across the border in England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI wondered how the influx of well-meaning settlers had gone down in this traditional, Welsh-speaking, farming town. \"In the '70s there were individuals who didn't like CAT, because they saw it as something from the outside – but that's very much a minority sport now,\" said Andy Rowland, managing director of local sustainability organisation \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecodyfi.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEcodyfi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The incomers have long since integrated with the local community, with many of their children attending Welsh-speaking schools; and besides, their principles align closely with those that are deep-rooted in Welsh culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is a Welsh noun, \u003Cem\u003Ecynefin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, that is sometimes translated into English as \"habitat\", but really means something much deeper, evoking the weight of time and the power of connection to a place. It was originally a farming term, used to describe the tracks which animals wore into their hillsides and valleys, and to which they would habitually return, generation after generation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The respect for stewarding the land is inherent in Welsh society and culture,\" said Rowland. \"I'm very pleased about the suite of Welsh government policies. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.futuregenerations.wales\u002Fabout-us\u002Ffuture-generations-act\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell-being of Future Generations Act\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is recognised worldwide as a leader. In the rest of the UK, there's a difference in emphasis. The language in England is about 'natural capital' and 'environmental assets' – economic terms. We don't tend to use that language in Wales.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven so, economic motivations, particularly tourism, have a role to play in preserving the area's precious landscapes. In addition to CAT's visitor activities and osprey-viewing at the Dyfi Wildlife Centre, there are magnificently picturesque places to stay, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cefncochfarm.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECefn Coch Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where ecology workshops and nature walks through Cambrian wildwood are on the agenda. These things all contribute to a wider understanding that the concerns that fuelled innovation at places like CAT are no longer fringe fears but matters of urgency.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People understand now that the future really does involve these technologies,\" Rowland said. \"They're not weird. They're not wacky.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgreen-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGreen Cities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that profiles innovative cities and towns around the world that are making bold strides towards a more sustainable future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-16T00:34:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK's haven for alternative thinking","headlineShort":"The sleepy Welsh town saving the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.5923018","longitude":"-3.8521113","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Trailblazing scientists, architects and engineers are flocking to a sleepy Welsh town, where their environmental breakthroughs are changing – and helping to save – the world.","summaryShort":"Its innovations, once seen as wacky, have gained crucial importance in the world","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-15T22:20:22.202819Z","entity":"article","guid":"f7a87378-510d-4cdb-9178-cc33cf771268","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-16T14:14:42.307353Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city","_id":"632cbe5143d9f4572408ae42","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller"],"bodyIntro":"Long known as a progressive beacon, Brighton & Hove is quickly becoming a global model of food sustainability.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a sunlit drive through the rolling green hills of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southdowns.gov.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Downs National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I headed down a quiet country lane shaded by trees to Wilding Wood Farm, where wood sculptures carved from fallen trees punctuated the pasture. I had come to pluck broad beans on what would be my first-ever harvesting experience, but also to contribute to one of Europe's most inspiring sustainable food programmes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was the newest member of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbhfood.org.uk\u002Fdirectory\u002Fsussex-gleaning-network\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESussex Gleaning Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which brings together local and visiting volunteers to help collect surplus harvest from area farms to turn into meals for people struggling with food poverty. Within an hour, the beans I'd picked were en route to a community kitchen in the nearby city of Brighton & Hove, whose network of sustainable food initiatives save hundreds of people in the city from going hungry every day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0g60q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrighton & Hove's determination to find ways to combat food poverty and food waste chimes with the city's renowned creative pulse and progressive attitude. Long known as the LGBTQ capital of the UK, this is a place that has had the UK's only Green Party MP for the past 12 years, enjoys its status as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcityofsanctuary.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUK City of Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that welcomes migrants from around the world and was named the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fuk.finance.yahoo.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbrighton-named-vegan-capital-world-040000859.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVegan Capital of the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the magazine Chef's Pencil in May.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, Brighton & Hove became the UK's first city to be awarded Gold Sustainable Food Status by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sustainablefoodplaces.org%2F&data=05|01||b32b1d1c3bee4cb3211408da928e6858|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|637983437577650862|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=ODAZ49wW0CpGVd2rNyffk8Z2AQlLUXKK0e1iBnuxiSM%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESustainable Food Places\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an organisation that works to address food waste and food poverty, as well as the many social, environmental and economic issues related to them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Food has the power to bring people together and change lives","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe city's breadth of sustainable food projects is vast. There are more than 75 allotments where people can grow their own food. More than 1,000 households engage in communal composting at nearly 40 sites, cutting food waste and supplying organic material to bolster urban food production. And free and donation-supported community cooking classes provide nearly half a million meals each year to residents coping with issues like mental illness, dementia and food poverty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.realjunkfoodbrighton.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReal Junk Food Project's Gardener Cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one example of how Brighton & Hove brings these different strands together. Run by volunteers and set amid the chic independent shops and bustle of the central North Laine neighbourhood, the stylish cafe creates its menu from surplus food collected from supermarkets and restaurants around the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0gbxg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Food has the power to bring people together and change lives,\" said Vic Borrill, director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbhfood.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrighton & Hove Food Partnership\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (BHFP), a key player in the city's sustainable food efforts. The organisation is involved in more than 130 sustainably minded community food projects throughout the city that are open to the public, from brunch clubs teaching young people with disabilities how to cook healthy meals to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbhfood.org.uk\u002Fget-involved\u002Fdementia-friendly-food-project\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood-growing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbhfood.org.uk\u002Fget-involved\u002Fdementia-friendly-food-project\u002F\"\u003E sessions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at allotments for older people suffering from dementia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBHFP also runs open \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbhfood.org.uk%2Fcookery-school%2F&data=05|01||b32b1d1c3bee4cb3211408da928e6858|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|637983437577650862|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=ZVrHS5fPpl6Y8VHwhCRR00GFo%2Fw%2BzV0BnV0ZsMOtpW0%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eclasses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003Ewhere keen cooks can learn how to prepare dishes from places as diverse as Japan, Italy and Uzbekistan. One evening I paid around £60 and joined half a dozen other enthusiastic amateur cooks to learn how to prepare Latin American Street Food dishes with Diego Ricaurte, one of the city's leading Mexican chefs, with the money raised going to fund other initiatives. Soon, we were each slow-cooking \u003Cem\u003Epozole roj\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E pork with our own chosen degree of heat and spice, while also learning how to prepare traditional Mexican black beans, sweet plantains and salsa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrighton & Hove's sustainable food surge may now be gaining national attention, but it isn't exactly new. According to Borrill, the BHFP formed back in 2003 when the city council, residents and cooking clubs came together to form the BHFP. It also took inspiration from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodmatters.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Matters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pre-existing Brighton-based group that also works to create sustainable and fair food systems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter plucking broad beans at the farm and mastering the perfect salsa, I headed to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.oldtreebrewery.co.uk%2F&data=05|01||b32b1d1c3bee4cb3211408da928e6858|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|637983437577650862|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=TjI0fdxhqx0V9GnRiQgVkUG5yLxEJn12WaDorYsH%2Bxg%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld Tree Brewery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to quench my thirst. Set up in 2014 as a social enterprise, Old Tree makes seasonal botanical drinks such as kombucha from local apples, elderflower and nettles. Over in the brewery shop, the air redolent with appley aromas, owner Tom Daniell explained how Old Tree sources local Sussex variety apples grown at small orchards set up around the city, including at local schools and the city's London Road train station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0g792"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn Saturday morning, I headed to the weekly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.florenceroadmarket.com%2F&data=05|01||b32b1d1c3bee4cb3211408da928e6858|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|637983437577650862|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=01sTq%2Brr8qewQYcJL3WIMvqdIWXPdJthdn94mzNzfdo%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlorence Road farmers market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In addition to showcasing local food products from vegetables to cheeses, a cut of the earnings go to fund therapeutic social care at places like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbhfood.org.uk\u002Fdirectory\u002Frock-farm\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERock Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a working market garden and community space about a dozen miles west of Brighton and Hove where people from vulnerable groups connect with nature by tending and picking crops. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those not visiting on a Saturday, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthesussexpeasant.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sussex Peasant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E food van is a market that takes Brighton & Hove's sustainable food ethos on the move. Set up by Ed Johnstone under the slogan \"Bringing Local Farms to You\", the van sells produce from around 20 Sussex farms five days a week at various locations around the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We felt that people were getting further and further away from their produce and how it was grown or how it was farmed,\" explained Johnstone, as he helped customers buying local fruit and vegetables, delicious Sussex cheeses and fresh-baked artisan loaves beside a park in Hove. \"We don't need to be flying in food from all over the world. Sustainability also supports a local economy, which benefits the local community.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe University of Brighton is even playing a part in the city's sustainable food network. Every day it turns coffee grounds from its cafes into fuel pellets to power biomass heating boilers. It's also conducting research on sustainable food practices that is inspiring cities around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0g7y4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKatrin Bohn, a researcher at the university, is highlighting the benefits of adding community gardens in urban spaces so that residents can grow their own food. Both the UN and Unesco have picked up her research findings, which show how these allotments cut greenhouse emissions linked to both food transport and rotting food waste in landfills, while also providing healthy food for city residents. \"There are other huge benefits from urban food production,\" she explained. \"These include soaking up rainwater to reduce the risk of flooding, improving air quality and biodiversity as well as minimising urban heat island effects that raise city temperatures.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBohn's research on urban food production has inspired initiatives in places like Germany and Japan. Tokyo's Nerima ward, for example, has introduced urban food producing gardens very similar to Brighton's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Falbioncommunitygarden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlbion Community Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while Berlin and Cologne have set up \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fernaehrungsrat-berlin.de\u002Fthe-berlin-food-policy-council\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Policy Councils\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that take a clear cue from an organisation like the BHFP.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my final dip into the city's sustainable food scene, I headed to a special pub. Opened in 2014, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebevy.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Bevy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a community-owned watering hole in the city's Moulsecoomb neighbourhood funded by more than 800 locals who own shares in the pub, with prices starting at £10. While similar community pubs have sprung up across Britain, The Bevy remains the only one in the middle of a social housing estate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0g95d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen not serving pints, The Bevy offers cooking classes to teach the surrounding social housing tenants how to cook healthily, while running a monthly weekend food market with stalls selling affordable local fresh fruit and vegetables. And this being Brighton, The Bevy also runs a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthe.bevy\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ediverse array of events\u003C\u002Fa\u003E including Latin Dance Exercise classes and occasional LGBTQ+ Bingo Nights hosted by a local drag queen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI came to tuck into the pub's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebevy.co.uk\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2019\u002F05\u002Fcommunity-lunch-flyer-1.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommunity Lunch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. For a donation – I paid £4 – I piled a plate with rice, couscous and a fresh salad, which tasted even better knowing more than 70% of my meal was made from surplus food provided through a partnership with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Ffaresharesussex.org.uk%2F&data=05|01||b32b1d1c3bee4cb3211408da928e6858|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|637983437577650862|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=vuztxF4%2BpTMuEpYdUP4ii8x2zvT9YBZpLeXCFN7YZNc%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFareShare Sussex\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another sustainable food project conveniently located a stone's throw from the pub. At other times, there are traditional English Sunday roasts and Friday night pizzas at more typical prices, which bolster the pub's takings to support its community initiatives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter my meal, I took a pint out to sit in the pub garden, shaded by the same local Sussex variety fruit trees that supply the Old Tree Brewery back in the heart of town. As I sipped, I admired a little vegetable plot sprouting up between the apple and plum trees, and wondered where in this vast, sustainably minded city the veggies would end up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgreen-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGreen Cities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that profiles innovative cities and towns around the world that are making bold strides towards a more sustainable future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-23T17:11:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How Brighton & Hove became Britain's greenest city","headlineShort":"Is this the UK's most progressive city?","image":["p0d0frn4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.8226","longitude":"0.1370","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0d0frn4"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long known as a progressive beacon, Brighton & Hove is quickly becoming a global model of food sustainability.","summaryShort":"It's become a global model of urban food sustainability","tag":["tag\u002Feco-tourism","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-22T19:57:51.946976Z","entity":"article","guid":"96bec7a3-35c7-4dfe-93f0-366759a11610","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-22T20:00:45.247156Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-how-brighton-hove-became-britains-greenest-city","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762246},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path","_id":"62fd55d043d9f46da9569b3f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fcarolyn-b-heller"],"bodyIntro":"A Canadian's quest to design a pilgrimage-inspired path around Prince Edward Island is now the Island Walk, a 700km walking and cycling route.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPink and purple lupins swayed along Prince Edward Island's Highway 101, where I'd just walked out of the town of Kensington. It was 09:00, and the road was busy with cars whose drivers seemed intent on finding coffee or getting to work. The smell of cow wafted across the wind before I spotted the animals grazing on the ridge. They were standing next to a sign that said, \"Get high off our milk. Our cows are on grass.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was my fourth day walking the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheislandwalk.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsland Walk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a new 700km route that circles Canada's smallest province. Starting on PEI's rural west end, I had walked past vinyl-clad farmhouses with ocean vistas, along a boardwalk beneath whirling wind turbines, and above red clay cliffs that plunged sharply into the sea. I had stopped for a midday country music hour at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstompintomcentre.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStompin' Tom Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, honouring Canadian singer-songwriter Tom Connors. I'd tromped through the rain along a secluded, wooded trail where swarms of canny mosquitos tried to shelter under my umbrella. And after learning about PEI's major crop at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcanadianpotatomuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanadian Potato Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I had fuelled my day's walk with an extra-large cheese-topped baked potato served with freshly made potato chips. You know that a place is serious about its spuds when your potato comes with a side of potatoes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You know that a place is serious about its spuds when your potato comes with a side of potatoes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, walking near the centre of the island, with the breeze blowing and the wildflowers blooming, I realised that I was noticing things I'd never have attended to if I were behind the wheel of a car. A shingled barn, its green paint fading, that looked nearly abandoned except for its meticulously mowed lawn. Two pale-yellow butterflies flitting past a basket of marigolds mounted on a fence post. A swath of ocean barely visible through a clearing in the trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBryson Guptill, the PEI resident who conceived the Island Walk, wanted to encourage both islanders and visitors to explore the region at this slower pace. After he and his partner Sue Norton hiked sections of the Camino de Santiago in Spain and France and the Rota Vicentina in Portugal, Guptill began wondering why there wasn't a similar walking route through the towns and country landscapes of their home province.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe set to work mapping a path around PEI, which officially became the Island Walk in 2020. The walking and cycling route is divided into 32 segments that travellers can tackle individually, as I did, or as an extended circuit around the island, passing its Atlantic coast beaches, through its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fpe\u002Fpei-ipe\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and into the villages where the Anne of Green Gables novels – perhaps PEI's best-known export – were set.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdnjq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn't a straight road from conceiving the idea to launching the Island Walk. And, as a growing number of people discover this route, its creators are facing some ongoing challenges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA retired government policy analyst, Guptill had been volunteering with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fislandtrails.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsland Trails\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit organisation whose mandate is to develop and maintain PEI's walking paths. He and Norton regularly walked many of the island's woodland trails, as well as the 273km \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tourismpei.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Foutdoor-activities\u002Fconfederation-trail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConfederation Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that follows a former rail line across the island's centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike the Camino de Santiago, the Island Walk wasn't based on an ancient pilgrimage route. Guptill wanted to link PEI's existing trail network, rural roads and larger roadways into a new route around the island, divided into walkable 20-25km segments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn October 2019, after mapping out a proposed route, he decided to test it out, recruiting Nora Wotton and two other PEI friends to join him. An experienced hiker, Wotton started serious long-distance walking when she retired from her teaching career. She had boarded a plane at 17:00 after her last day of work to begin a solo walk on the Camino de Santiago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdnk1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Wotton heard about Guptill's Camino-style walk around PEI, she was intrigued to try this close-to-home route. During their month-long trek, Wotton recounted, many islanders opened their homes, offering accommodations, food and drink, even a spot to get out of the rain to eat sandwiches they'd packed. The walkers watched lobster fishers haul in their traps, passed vibrantly hued blueberry fields and saw the island's trees change colour day by day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"I got to see how pretty my own part of this beautiful Earth is.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I got to see how pretty my own part of this beautiful Earth is. I've travelled around the world. And this is just as pretty as anywhere else I've been.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter this initial test walk, Guptill began working with the Island Trails organisation and the provincial government to develop the Island Walk into a more viable product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdndj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELinda Lowther, a PEI tourism consultant who became the Island Walk's first manager, led a team whose job, she explained, \"was to make the Island Walk a reality\". They built a website, designed a logo and brochure, and planned signs marking the route. Lowther began contacting motels, inns and B&Bs to recruit them as partners who would house, feed and potentially transport Island Walkers. \"I personally called every single accommodation within a kilometre of the Walk,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut in early 2020, responding to the Covid-19 pandemic, PEI closed its borders, putting the project on hold. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe following year, though, the first walkers began planning their travels, using information from the new website and from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F486034768677776\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsland Walk Facebook page\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Lowther said she joined many of those walkers as they passed through the town of Cavendish where she lives. She wanted to learn what was and wasn't working. \"Ninety-nine percent of them loved everything,\" she noted. \"They just wish we had more bathrooms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESections of the Island Walk that follow the Confederation Trail do have bathroom facilities, as do more developed regions, where walkers can duck into cafes or museums when nature calls. But other more rural sections have far fewer services.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdnh3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith Island Walk organisers estimating that between 250 and 400 walkers and cyclists will tackle the route in 2022, three operators have begun offering trip planning services. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.experiencepei.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExperience PEI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E coordinates walking and cycling trips, Outer Limit Sports offers short-duration packages for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwalk.ols.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewalkers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftour.ols.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecyclists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macqueens.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMacQueen's Bike Shop & Island Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E assists cyclists with rentals and trip plans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPEI also has a rural bus service, launched in April, that can transport travellers to different parts of the island. While service on this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.t3transit.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ET3 Transit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E network is still infrequent, one-way adult fares are only CAD$2 (about £1.30).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELaura MacGregor recently spent 31 days completing the entire Island Walk after driving from her Ontario home in a small RV. She worked with Experience PEI to organise her walk. Company owner Bill Kendrick suggested an itinerary combining camping with occasional overnights at inns or B&Bs. He contracted with shuttle or taxi drivers to bring her to and from the trailheads each day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Island Walk doesn't always have accommodations or campsites where each segment ends, MacGregor noted. \"It's not like the Appalachian Trail where when you're done, you pitch your tent. It took a lot more planning because you're not sleeping on the trail. You need to have accommodations elsewhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdnj0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPEI's Island Walk \"is not the Camino yet\", she added. \"I'd like to think infrastructure is going to evolve, but it's still in the early days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENova Scotia resident Gene Oickle chose to plan his own trip when he walked the first 16 sections of the Island Walk in June. After recent travel restrictions kept him from long-distance walking abroad, where he had previously hiked from Hungary to Italy, walked across Sweden and Norway, and completed the Camino Frances, he selected PEI's comparatively flat terrain to help regain his fitness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn his Island Walk, Oickle stayed several days at a few different accommodations, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftignishheritageinn.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETignish Heritage Inn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the island's western end and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwarmhouseretreat.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWarm House Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Summerside, and paid the innkeepers to drive him to and from the trail. While these arrangements worked smoothly, he acknowledges that the transportation costs, which varied by the distance or time travelled, could be a deterrent, especially for solo walkers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut for Oickle, the benefits of this slower way to travel outweigh its negatives. \"When you're driving,\" he said, \"you're so interested in getting to your destination that you're not really looking outside the window to see what's out there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctdngl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn foot, in a way, you see less of a place, covering far less ground than you could by car. But in other ways, you see more. You notice five red wooden chairs lined up in a field, positioned toward the sun setting over the ocean. You tune into the caws of the crows and the croaks of the frogs as you pass a pond, ringed with reeds. You rest your feet as a singer croons a Stompin' Tom classic about the island's potatoes: \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIt's Bud the spud from the bright red mud\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERolling down the highway smiling….\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring my five days on PEI's Island Walk, I was rolling – no, make that walking – down the province's highways, back roads and wooded trails. And like Bud the Spud, I was definitely smiling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-18T10:52:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Canada's new 700km island path","headlineShort":"Canada's new 700km island path","image":["p0ctdnbn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.4352514","longitude":"-63.6513254","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ctdnbn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A Canadian's quest to design a pilgrimage-inspired path around Prince Edward Island is now the Island Walk, a 700km walking and cycling route.","summaryShort":"\"I got to see how pretty my own part of this beautiful Earth is\"","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-17T20:55:26.612388Z","entity":"article","guid":"26d51b32-5f21-4d24-b95a-25f27affcfee","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-18T00:47:11.783651Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762251,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fprince-edward-island","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_prince-edward-island_north-america_canada"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub","_id":"62e9b35343d9f457050cc3eb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The only ways to get to the Old Forge Pub are by sea ferry or by a two-day, 18-mile hike across the Scottish Highlands – a trip that gives new meaning to the term \"pub crawl\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur journey began at the end of the road. The longest dead-end road in Britain, in fact. It took two hours of knuckle-whitening jags around hairpin bends and past sheer descents, on a 22-mile taxi ride from the town of Fort William in the western Scottish Highlands, to get to our starting point of Kinloch Hourn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the company of two friends, Carl and José, I was embarking on a journey to the most remote pub in mainland Britain. Accessible only by sea ferry or by a two-day, 18-mile hike across the Scottish Highlands from the small settlement of Kinloch Hourn (or an even longer, 28-mile yomp from the hamlet of Glenfinnan), the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Finverieknoydart\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld Forge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sits in the village of Inverie, on the southern coast of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitknoydart.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKnoydart peninsula\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Walking in\" to the pub is a rite of passage in the outdoors community, and one we were keen to tick off, thirsty in equal measure for adventure and the extreme satisfaction of a pint well earned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EForming part of the so-called Rough Bounds – the \"highlands of the Highlands\" – Knoydart is remote and inaccessible even by local standards. There are no streetlights, you can't get a mobile phone signal, and the seven miles of paved roads are unconnected to the mainland network. Around 120 residents lived here at the last count, spread across 86 square miles (that's approximately the same population density as Alaska). The majority of those brave and hardy souls live in Inverie, and now, after a community buyout in March 2022, most of them own a stake in the Old Forge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the decade prior, the pub's legendary status had waned, with the previous owner closing for six months each winter when tourists were few. The pub’s community spirit was lost; so too its status as a year-round sanctuary for tired, thirsty hikers. Even to summer visitors, impressions were often not good. \"This place used to be jumping,\" reads one of the many unflattering online reviews from this dark period. \"Now it is like a morgue.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Over the years, it wasn't serving the community in the way it was needed,\" said Steph Harris, who grew up in Inverie and is now business development manager of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theoldforgecbs.org\u002F\"\u003EOld Forge Community Benefit Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The main thing was that it shut during the winter, which was massive for us. We're really tourism-based, so people are very busy in the summer, and in the winter we get the chance to spend time together again. But the pub would shut for six months in September or October. When it's dark and windy and horrible, you need somewhere you can go and relax, meet up with your friends, celebrate stuff together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals were so desperate for somewhere to go during the dark winter months, they erected their own makeshift wooden bar around an old table on the shore of the loch near the pub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When it's dark and windy and horrible, you need somewhere you can go and relax, meet up with your friends, celebrate stuff together","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the Old Forge was finally put on sale in February 2021, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-highlands-islands-58624724\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea community buyout was quickly proposed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the response was emphatic. \"We've got 90 shareholders,\" said Harris. \"That's effectively 75% of the local population. The response was just amazing – people were willing to put their own money into it, which was phenomenal.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a little over a year, in April 2022, the pub re-opened, this time in the hands of the community. Though some of the physical renovations are ongoing (the kitchens are scheduled to reopen in 2023), the pub’s atmosphere was restored to its former glory immediately as locals and hikers returned – making it a place, once again, worth the walk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwebcache.googleusercontent.com\u002Fsearch?q=cache:zL_3SI5z4ZkJ:heritagepaths.co.uk\u002Fdescription.php%3Fpath%3D%2520277+&cd=3&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk&client=safari\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOur first day's hike saw us skirt the southern shore of Loch Hourn, a steep-sided, fjord-like body of water that reaches like a witch's finger between the peninsulas of Glenelg and Knoydart. The route traced the edges of the loch shore – it was mostly rocky and easy to discern, but often collapsed into boggy marsh, which sucked our boots and smeared our ankles in mud. This was once a deer-stalker's path, and, more forebodingly, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwebcache.googleusercontent.com\u002Fsearch?q=cache:zL_3SI5z4ZkJ:heritagepaths.co.uk\u002Fdescription.php%3Fpath%3D%2520277+&cd=3&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk&client=safari\"\u003Ea coffin road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a route along which corpses were carried to the Kilchoan burial ground in Inverie.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI wondered what secrets lurked in the bog; imagined ghostly hands grasping at my boots each time they squelched beneath the mire. Fittingly enough, Loch Hourn translates from Gaelic as \"Lake Hell\"; Loch Nevis, our destination, as \"Lake Heaven\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut first came purgatory: the mountains and the bog. We ducked our way along loch-side paths overgrown with jungle-like greenery, which poured water down our necks and soaked us through. We picked our way on hands and knees across natural stepping stones over seething rivers. Conditions seemed to lend credence to the repeated weather report we heard from locals and passing hikers: \"Three months of solid rain.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe spent the night at Barrisdale bothy, a basic shelter left open for the use of hikers that apparently last saw a lick of paint sometime in the 1950s. A guestbook lay on the kitchen table, including an entry which read, \"I'm a scientifically minded person, but I experienced things here which I cannot explain.\" Tired enough not to care, I curled up on a wooden bunk and lapsed into a dreamless sleep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day saw us cross the Knoydart peninsula from north to south, fording waterfalls where rotten wooden bridges had been trod through, and plodding up the seemingly endless slopes of Mam Barrisdale, a modest mountain whose peak was the route's highest point. This hike was giving new meaning to the term \"pub crawl\", but we were energised anew on seeing that most Scottish of sights: a vast stag, regally observing us from the crest of a hill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scotsman.com\u002Fnews\u002Fpolitics\u002Fremembering-highland-land-raiders-who-defied-their-nazi-sympathising-boss-192458\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOur pace quickened from Mam Barrisdale, downhill now all the way to glittering Inverie Bay. A resident, tinkering with a boat in his driveway, regarded us with kindly concern as we plodded past on our approach to the village. We carried about us the essence of the bog, smeared in mud and smelling for all the world like a badger had died in one of our bags. But soon we rounded a corner and Inverie's tiny main drag revealed itself: a succession of little white houses, with a pub sign heralding the Old Forge at their centre. We had made it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeside the main road sat a beehive-shaped cairn, inset with a metal plaque commemorating in Gaelic and English the plight of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scotsman.com\u002Fnews\u002Fpolitics\u002Fremembering-highland-land-raiders-who-defied-their-nazi-sympathising-boss-192458\"\u003ESeven Men of Knoydart\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. After World War Two, these \"land raiders\" attempted to reclaim a place to live from the villainous absentee landowner (and Nazi sympathiser) Lord Brocket – something they had been denied since the Highland Clearances of the 19th Century saw locals evicted to make way for sheep pasture. The Seven Men were led by local priest Father Colin Macpherson, who preached in Inverie's St Agatha's Chapel. Now deconsecrated, the chapel houses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.knoydartbrewery.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKnoydart Brewery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which supplies several beers to the Old Forge, including one named in honour of the Seven Men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's always been more than just a pub, and that's very evident after the past few years","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FKnoydartTea\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"The Seven Men of Knoydart are heroes of community ownership, which is why we commemorated them with our beer,\" said co-founder Matthew Humphrey. \"The fact we're making it in Father Macpherson's church… it just feels right.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe brewery is not the only local business feeling the benefit of the pub's revival; so too is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FKnoydartTea\u002F\"\u003EKnoydart Pottery and Tearoom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a café across the road from the Old Forge that is providing the pub with sandwiches while the kitchens undergo renovation. \"I'm noticing a huge influx in smaller cruise ships coming in,\" said co-owner Isla Miller. \"There's a great energy and buzz about the place. It's always been more than just a pub, and that's very evident after the past few years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=1y8aYd9uqFY\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EAs we finally entered the pub, I was struck by the number of instruments lining or hanging on the walls: guitars, mandolins, a piano – all put to good use on regular music nights, both planned and impromptu. \"This is the beating heart of the village,\" said bar manager William O'Neill. “The atmosphere has definitely changed [since the re-opening]. We are seeing more of each other, and now have the ability to have a night out rather than stand around a fire outside in the cold and wet.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for us, after two days deprived of such luxuries as clean water and fresh food, we gazed up at the glittering bounty behind the bar like Charlie Bucket \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=1y8aYd9uqFY\"\u003Esurveying the chocolate factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: lagers, bitters, IPAs. “What’s it to be, lads?” said O’Neill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOur mouths moved in unison. “Three pints of Seven Men, please.” And repeat, ad nauseam.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe morning sun, glistening over the eastern shore of Loch Nevis, pierced my brain like a lightning bolt shattering a tombstone. I staggered out of bed and stumbled around, unwilling or unable to open my eyes. Fumbling for a glass of water, I found the door handle instead, and emerged, blinking, into the dawn. My colleagues, similarly dishevelled, stood waiting. The thing was done; the dead were living. Now how the hell were we going to get home?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-03T10:28:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Britain's most remote mainland pub","headlineShort":"A two-day hike to a legendary UK pub","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"57.2835","longitude":"-2.3740","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The only ways to get to the Old Forge Pub are by sea ferry or by a two-day, 18-mile hike across the Scottish Highlands – a trip that gives new meaning to the term \"pub crawl\".","summaryShort":"It's only accessible by an 18-mile hike or a seven-mile journey by boat","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-02T23:29:05.241837Z","entity":"article","guid":"c43ec19c-2c84-4caf-b58a-939a4320198e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-03T17:06:09.13081Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior","_id":"6305539243d9f46da0098104","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In a lesser-known area of Sicily, local artisans, shepherds, cheesemakers and farmers are opening their doors to create a new way for travellers to experience their island.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERolling hills covered with wheat fields and dotted with wind turbines stretched into the distance as far as the eye could see. Occasionally, a stone village appeared among them, terraced along the hillside or sitting atop a ridge overlooking the ochre-and-gold landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe scenery could have been out of Val d'Orcia – the Tuscan region of The Gladiator and The English Patient fame. Except it wasn't. I was in Sicily, in the far-less explored area of the Madonie, a mountain range on the northern side of the Italian island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis inland region is, undeniably, not what you'd think of when you think of Sicily. The largest island in the Mediterranean usually conjures images of turquoise waters and lavish Baroque cities, sandy beaches and postcard-perfect coastal towns. With its rural, agrarian topography, the Madonie couldn't look more different from all that. But that's exactly why a group of people recently launched a new travel experience solely focused on it – named, aptly, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Heart of Sicily\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (THOS).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe project, born during the pandemic, aims to showcase this little-known part of the island through a series of immersive itineraries and activities that connect travellers both with the territory and the local inhabitants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt also wants to help revive the fortunes and community ties of the Madonie's villages, which, like many \u003Cem\u003Eborghi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (small towns)across Italy and in the historically impoverished south, have long been afflicted by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mdpi.com\u002F2071-1050\u002F13\u002F12\u002F6643\u002Fhtm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echronic depopulation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the project's head is Fabrizia Lanza, director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fannatascalanza.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnna Tasca Lanza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cooking school, a Madonie-based culinary hub that's been teaching international students about Sicilian food and farming practices since 1989 (it was established by Lanza's mother, Anna).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When we went into lockdown and I had to suspend my classes, I began thinking about how to give back to this land that has given me so much,\" she said, when I visited her at the school on Regaleali, a 200-year-old working farm and country estate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For the past 20 years, I have been working with truly incredible small producers, artisans and farmers – people who know and fiercely love the Madonie, yet hardly have the opportunity to share their skills and stories,\" she said. Together with a few of them, she floated the idea of developing a series of travel experiences to shed light on their home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a place of treasures – cultural, historical, natural, agricultural,\" Lanza said. \"By gathering them under one platform, the hope is that this whole area can become a destination in its own right. It has all the attributes to do so.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo date, THOS counts six hosts – including Lanza – each of whom has created \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fexplore-the-itineraries\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edifferent itineraries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E centred around their expertise, from food production and agriculture to craftsmanship, environmental walks and archaeological excursions. For many of the experiences, THOS partners with farmers, shepherds and artisans to offer anything from stays to meals and to spotlight the area's communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EChoose from a selection of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fexplore-the-itineraries\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eself-drive itineraries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which are crafted and guided by a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fmeet-the-people\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocal host\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and run between one to six days. You'll get to explore the Madonie and its 12 \u003Cem\u003Eborghi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(small villages) via walks, workshops and cultural tours, meeting local cheese makers, artists, herbalists and other small-business owners along the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Go for a drive","calloutTitle":"HOW TO LIVE THE LIFE","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou might learn how to make ricotta with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fvivi-le-madonie\u002Fcaseificio-enzo-privitera\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshepherd Filippo Privitera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who milks his 300 sheep by hand every morning; collect wild herbs with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fexperience-the-madonie\u002Fporto-di-terra\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPorto di Terra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an eco-driven association that organises treks around this highland area; or visit the studio and furnace of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fexperience-the-madonie\u002Fceramiche-artistiche-dangelo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eceramist Giovanni D'Angelo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has been crafting tiles for more than three decades. There are also opportunities to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheheartofsicily.it\u002Fen\u002Fmeet-the-people\u002Fvalentina-and-giovanni\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epartake in seasonal olive oil production\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at an organic farm, learn about wheat collection and have a go at composting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe end goal is for travellers to truly get under the skin of this remarkable region. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"All the activities we have put together are designed to promote the local community and its right to be the protagonist of THOS,\" explained Roberta Billitteri, a host who took me on one her itineraries. \"Anyone who's part of this project already has a job or their own venture – myself included. What we are doing is opening our doors and making this land more accessible by linking up with one another and, in turn, visitors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBillitteri's trips for THOS start in the fairy-tale village of Polizzi Generosa, where she lives. Perched on a cliff (the appellative \"Generosa\", meaning generous, was given to it in 1234 by King of Sicily Frederick II, who appreciated the richness of its territory), the hamlet features an assembly of elegant stone buildings and meandering cobbled lanes, ornate churches and quaint \u003Cem\u003Epiazzette \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(small squares). It is ridiculously pretty. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBillitteri moved here in 2009 with her husband to take up farming and promote sustainable agriculture. She grows the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fslow-food-presidia\u002Fpolizzi-badda-bean\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBadda bean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fslow-food-presidia\u002Fpolizzi-generosa-pepper\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epipiddu pepper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, two plants indigenous to the Madonie that are recognised as part of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fslow-food-presidia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food Presidia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a marker applied to small communities dedicated to preserving agricultural products at risk of extinction, safeguarding native breeds and following the principles of agroecology).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also runs a food workshop where she makes preserves with locally sourced ingredients and introduces THOS participants to the Madonie's flavours and agricultural legacy through tastings and demonstrations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our aim is to protect and, hopefully, spread awareness on the products native to the Madonie,\" she said as she showed me around the workshop. \"They're an obvious proof of how special our territory is.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll the activities she's developed for her programmes highlight this rural and gastronomic side of the area. Travellers are taken on walks to explore the many plants, trees and fruits of the Madonie, eat at family-run restaurants that showcase Slow Food ingredients and stay at country residences like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fagriturismocuca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgriturismo Cuca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a hillside cottage and organic farm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere, visitors get to meet owner, farmer and arborist Pietro Genduso, who grows more than 40 varieties of indigenous Sicilian fruits at risk of extinction. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The local biodiversity is nothing short of incredible,\" he told me, as we sat under a shady mulberry tree during my stay. \"I think many inhabitants of the area – especially those whose livelihoods are so closely tied with the countryside – strive to be custodians of this ecosystem,\" he continued. \"There's an appreciation for the land that's being lost in other parts [of Sicily].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy partnering with THOS, Genduso hopes to share that appreciation – starting with his own orchard, which guests can visit. \"All the fruits and vegetables we use to make dinner for our guests come from it,\" he said proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Madonie's biodiversity is also a point of pride for Giovanna Gebbia, a naturalist guide and another THOS host whose itineraries I sampled. Her programmes are centred around the sprawling \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parks.it\u002Fparco.madonie\u002FEpar.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParco delle Madonie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and it's there that we meet to embark on a gentle four-hour hike. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECovering more than 40,000 acres, the nature reserve has been a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fglobal-geoparks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Global Geopark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2015, and is home to fallow deer, wild boar and peregrine falcon, as well as a wealth of endemic botanical species and microclimates (I got to see the southernmost beech forest in Europe).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is Sicily's most bountiful garden,\" she said. \"You have more than 1,600 vegetal organisms, fossils and limestone rocks that date back some 200 million years ago. Yet so few people know about it. We thought it was time to change that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tours Gebbia has created for THOS also feature walks along ancient shepherd \u003Cem\u003Etrazzere \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(paths) and cultural visits to picturesque borghilike tiny Petralia Soprana, her home, which is part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fborghipiubelliditalia.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBorghi più Belli d'Italia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a crop of small Italian towns that are recognised for their quality heritage and historical relevance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it's not just the architecture that Gebbia wants visitors to admire. In Petralia Soprana, she takes travellers to Bar Aspromonte, a café famous across the Madonie for its \u003Cem\u003Esfoglio madonita\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cake made with thin pastry filled with\u003Cem\u003E tuma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an unsalted local cheese), candied pumpkin, sugar and pieces of chocolate. (There's actually a fierce rivalry between Polizzi Generosa and Petralia Soprana for which village makes the best \u003Cem\u003Esfoglio\u003C\u002Fem\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the borgo just below it, Petralia Sottana, she has visitors stop by the haberdashery of Giulia Valenza. Owned by Valenza's family since 1954, the emporium specialises in high-quality yarns and hosts free knitting workshops for locals, which travellers can also join.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELooking ahead, the network aims to keep expanding with more hosts, more partners and more itineraries, though, Lanza said, it will take time, as most residents aren't used to working with travellers, especially foreign ones. \"Not everyone speaks English or has dealt with tourists' needs or demands,\" she said. \"It will be a learning process.\"  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, \"a bottom-up approach is the only way you can really understand Sicily and bring a positive change to areas like the Madonie,\" she added. It starts with the people.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcountry-rambles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECountry Rambles\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that embraces rural life, helping travellers to reconnect with nature, learn a handcrafted skill and live more sustainably – all while experiencing local culture.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-24T10:23:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sicily's unexplored hidden interior","headlineShort":"The Sicily most travellers don't see","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.7157507","longitude":"13.832623","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In a lesser-known area of Sicily, local artisans, shepherds, cheesemakers and farmers are opening their doors to create a new way for travellers to experience their island.","summaryShort":"A network of artisans and farmers have opened their doors in Sicily's heartland","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-23T22:24:01.295537Z","entity":"article","guid":"e99ba262-7c3c-482b-9f3d-1514c99931d2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-29T12:15:41.024745Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads","_id":"632be60643d9f45843528c26","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjoel-balsam"],"bodyIntro":"Little is known about the ancient Etruscans, but one of the clues they left behind is a network of sunken paths said to connect the land of the living with the land of the dead.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWildflowers grazed my legs as I hiked down from the volcanic-rock hilltop fortress of Pitigliano into the Tuscan valley below. At the base of the hill, I crossed a burbling stream and followed a winding trail as it inclined. All of a sudden, I was walled in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHuge blocks of tuff, a porous rock made from volcanic ash, rose as high as 25m on either side of the trench I found myself in. I felt spooked – and I'm not the only one who's felt that way in \u003Cem\u003Evie cave\u003C\u002Fem\u003E like this. These subterranean trails have been linked with lore of devils and deities for centuries. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"When we were kids, nobody really went there,\" said Elena Ronca, a hiking guide who has been leading tours around this area of Tuscany, where she grew up, for 12 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThat's because there wasn't much information about the trails, nor about the Etruscan civilisation that built them. The ancients didn't leave road maps or written records, and many pathways were abandoned and overgrown with shrubs. But in the last few decades, archaeological discoveries in tombs across central Italy, and as far as Corsica, have revealed more about the Etruscans and their mysterious vie cave, which are said to connect the land of the living with the land of the dead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAt their simplest definition, vie cave (\u003Cem\u003Evia cava\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the singular) were walled pathways used to travel from the highlands to the riverbanks and vice versa. While they're found in various places across central Italy (where the Etruscans thrived from 900 BCE to about 700 CE until they were absorbed into the Roman Empire), the vie cave here in southern Tuscany between the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana are among the oldest andmost intact. \"It's incredible that the vie cave have lasted so long,\" Ronca said. \"During the Etruscan times, they knew what they were doing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0czk42l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn my hike through the area, each vie cave I walked was different than the next. Some were narrow, with walls not much taller than me, and finely cut stairs. Others were lush jungles of moss and ferns contained by giant walls, or residential roads wide enough to fit a car or two. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOriginally, Ronca explained, the vie cave were carved only a few feet deep, using a rock-cutting technique first seen in ancient Egypt that involved drilling a hole into the tuff, inserting a piece of wood and then filling the hole with water. The wood would expand, forcing the tuff to fracture. They would do this again and again, lengthening and deepening the road to its desired size. \"It's not a simple and easy technique,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOver centuries, the vie cave were further altered by various empires, including the Ostrogoths, Lombards and Franks, that used them to suit their needs. At some unknown point along the way, stairs were added and ravines were deepened, but even the original vie cave had a way to channel out the rainwater: in each path I walked, I could see some form of water trough system cut into the tuff rock to prevent erosion and drain rainwater. \"Etruscans were extremely skilled hydraulic engineers,\" Ronca said. \"We know that they levelled some lakes and then drained huge wetlands in order to have lands that were possible to farm.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0czk3ts"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs I continued my hike, I came across deep diagonal pits with rock monuments above them that appeared to be carved by human hands. These were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1158\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEtruscan necropolises\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with tombs for individuals or families cut deep into the tuff and filled with gold, food and clothing for safe passage into the afterlife.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnfortunately, many Etruscan tombs in the area were robbed long ago. As English writer D H Lawrence wrote in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgutenberg.net.au\u002Febooks09\u002F0900381h.html\"\u003EEtruscan Places\u003C\u002Fa\u003E after a visit to Tuscany in the 1920s: ''to the tombs we must go: or to the museums containing the things that have been rifled from the tombs\". But historians like Luca Nejrotti, an archaeologist working with the Italian government in the region, have managed to find pottery and painted frescoes in the necropolises that may answer some questions about Etruscans and their vie cave. \"Most of the Etruscan tombs have been robbed since ancient times, but the robbers used to take just the gold,\" he said. \"So, for archaeologists, it's quite interesting because you can still find pottery and stuff that is really, really important for the historical research,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEtruscans' traditional tomb frescoes didn't last in the Pitigliano area, since paint doesn't stick to tuff very well, but by studying famous frescoes in necropolises like the ones beneath the city of Tarquinia, in the province of Lazio, along with artefacts in Tuscany, Nejrotti believes that vie cave might have hosted celebratory funeral parades, complete with food offerings, dancing, musical instruments and even public sex. Some historians posit that this could be because Etruscans believed life continued after death and the vie cave were pathways to the afterlife. \"Etruscans believed that the trees were gods, they believed that the rivers were gods, and the main important gods were underground,\" Ronca said. \"So probably the idea of digging vie cave through the rock was a way to connect with these gods, but we are not sure about that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0czk3p0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EInterestingly, the artefacts also suggest that women and men were equal in Etruscan society, which is different than how the Romans behaved: in sculptures and paintings, women are depicted as being not only welcome but active participants at banquets and social gatherings; inscriptions indicate that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1972\u002F12\u002F30\u002Farchives\u002Fetruscan-women-had-womens-lib.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewomen could inherit property and kept matronymic names\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Roman women took their father's or husband's name); and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museoetru.it\u002Fworks\u002Fsarcophagus-of-the-spouses\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESarcophagus of the Spouses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, found in the Etruscan necropolis in Cerveteri, shows a man and woman held in equal status.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Roman women were just the mother of the family – they had lots of power, but inside the house,\" Ronca said. \"On the contrary in the Etruscan world, females were almost [the same] as men; they could rule a family, they could rule a town. We have some magistrates that were women.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFor both Nejrotti and Ronca, the most interesting theory suggested by artefacts and archaeological research is that Etruscans seem to have had a limited impact on the environment compared with the Romans, who frequently razed land, rerouted rivers and flattened hills. For instance, the vie cave caused comparatively little detrimental impact and were made using materials found in the area – possibly because the Etruscans believed certain natural features (like trees and rivers) were gods and that man was connected to nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0czk4b4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Romans used to be more aggressive with the environment and they used to change the landscape more deeply,\" Nejrotti said. \"You can see that the traces that the Etruscan people left in the landscape were quite soft, maybe this is something we can learn from them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs my hike ended in the town of Sovana, a former Etruscan city that has long been built over, I wondered why I knew so little about Etruscans and their fascinating vie cave, while I knew a ton about Romans. According to Ronca, I shouldn't feel bad. \"Italian people, not only European or American people, nobody knows about them,\" she said. \"At schools, they still don't teach about the Etruscans… They are really underestimated and undervalued.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut that is starting to change. Ronca said that in the past five to eight years, and especially during the pandemic lockdowns when Italians spent more time exploring their own regions, vie cave and their necropolises have grown in popularity. \"Ten years ago, I had to force people to come and see the vie cave,\" Ronca said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESoon perhaps, vie cave will be as busy as more well-known Roman historical sites, but if they do, Ronca hopes we will do our best to preserve them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Vie cave are something unique. We cannot just remake them,\" Ronca said. \"Once they're gone, they're gone forever.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-22T04:31:50.362Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Tuscany's mysterious 'cave roads'","headlineShort":"The sunken roads carved out of rock","image":["p0czk3sc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"42.6364587","longitude":"11.6686205","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0czk3sc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220802-britains-most-remote-mainland-pub","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220823-sicilys-unexplored-hidden-interior"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Little is known about the ancient Etruscans, but one of the clues they left behind is a network of sunken paths said to connect the land of the living with the land of the dead.","summaryShort":"Italy's mysterious roadways that predate Rome","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-22T04:35:00.126962Z","entity":"article","guid":"8a7bc87b-9249-4952-b9c0-7577ba2c126d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-22T17:04:54.966757Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220922-tuscanys-mysterious-cave-roads","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftuscany","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy_tuscany_europe_italy_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","_id":"62df824143d9f46dab656545","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComing to the end of a short, winding trail, I found myself standing in the extreme north-west corner of the contiguous US, a wild, forested realm where white-capped waves slam against the isolated Washington coast with a savage ferocity. Buttressed by vertiginous cliffs battling with the corrosive power of the Pacific, Cape Flattery has an elemental, edge-of-continent feel. No town adorns this stormy promontory. The nearest settlement, Neah Bay, sits eight miles away by road, a diminutive coast-hugging community that is home to the Makah, an indigenous tribe who have fished and thrived in this region for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale, and their story is closely linked to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah is the only tribe with explicit treaty rights to whale hunting in the US,\" explained Rebekah Monette, a tribal member and historic preservation programme manager. \"Our expertise in whaling distinguished us from other tribes. It was very important culturally. In the stratification of Makah society, whaling was at the top of the hierarchy. Hunting had the capacity to supply food for a vast number of people and raw material for tools.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter reading recent news stories about the Makah's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fisheries.noaa.gov\u002Fwest-coast\u002Fmarine-mammal-protection\u002Fmakah-tribal-whale-hunt\"\u003Ewhaling rights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsanctuaries.noaa.gov\u002Fnews\u002Ffeb22\u002Fmakah-ocean-out-of-balance.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eimpact of climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on their traditional waters, I had come to their 27,000-acre reservation on Washington's Olympic Peninsula to learn more, by visiting a unique \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etribal museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has just reopened after a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EDue to a trick of fate, Makah history is exceptionally well-documented. In contrast to other North American civilisations, a snapshot of their past was captured and preserved by a single cataclysmic episode. In 1970, a brutal Pacific storm uncovered part of an abandoned coastal Makah village called Ozette located 15 miles south of Cape Flattery. Part of the village had been buried by a mudslide that was possibly triggered by a dramatic seismic event around 1700, almost a century before the first European contact. Indeed, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\"\u003Erecent research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E argues that ancestors of the Makah – or related Wakashan speaking people – have been present in the area for at least 4,000 years, which, if proven, would change our understanding of prehistory in the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMiraculously, the mud had protected embedded organic matter by sealing it off from the air. As a result, thousands of well-preserved artefacts that would normally have rotted – from intact woven cedar baskets to dog-hair blankets and wooden storage boxes – were able to be painstakingly unearthed during a pioneering archaeological dig.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDue to the suddenness of the event and the exceptional levels of preservation, scientists hailed the find a \"Western Pompeii\" and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Farchive\u002Flifestyle\u002F1979\u002F06\u002F24\u002Fcivilization-lostand-found\u002Fe3e94085-fcb9-4ea4-81ce-862a5b5a3379\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashington Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called it \"the most comprehensive collection of artefacts of a pre-European-contact Indian culture ever discovered in the United States\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnxious the material might be engulfed by the sea and lost, the tribe called in Richard Daugherty, an influential archaeologist at Washington State University who'd been involved in fieldwork in the area since the 1940s. Having good connections with Congress, Daugherty helped secure federal funding for an exhaustive excavation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Dr Daugherty was instrumental in the excavation work,\" recounted Monette. \"He was very progressive and interested in working alongside the tribe in the process. He worked to gain financing for 11 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ozette dig lasted from 1970 until 1981 and ultimately unearthed around 55,000 artefacts from six beachside cedar houses covered by the slide. The Makah, like many indigenous groups, have a strong oral tradition, with much of their history passed down through storytelling, song and dance. The evidence unearthed at Ozette affirmed these stories and added important details.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary,\" recalled archaeologist Gary Wessen, a former field director at the site who later wrote a PhD dissertation on the topic. \"Ozette is what we call a primary deposition. We have all these materials preserved in the places where they were actually used. It helps tell us more about the social and spatial relationship of the people who lived in the houses.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile much of the material dated from around 1700, some of it was significantly older. Indeed, archaeologists ultimately determined that multiple mudslides had hit Ozette over a number of centuries. Beneath one of the houses, another layer of well-preserved material dated back 800 years. The oldest finds so far have been radiocarbon-dated to 2,000 years and there are middens in the area that are at least 4,000 years old, according to Wessen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outset, the Ozette dig was different to other excavations. Tribal members worked alongside university students at the site, and, early on, it was decided that the unearthed material would stay on the reservation rather than be spirited off to distant universities or other non-indigenous institutions. In 1979, the tribe opened the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\"\u003EMakah Cultural and Research Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Neah Bay with a museum to house a \"greatest hits\" of the collection. The 500 pieces currently on display represent less than 1% of the overall find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The tribe was very assertive of their ownership and control of the collection,\" said Monette. \"A lab was developed in Neah Bay. For the museum, we hired Jean Andre, the same exhibit designer as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Froyalbcmuseum.bc.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal BC Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Victoria. We decided to tell our story seasonally with sections on spring, summer, fall and winter.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe result, which has only recently reopened, is a beautifully curated space. Outside on a verdant lawn, I was welcomed by a reconstruction of a traditional wooden Makah house and two large statues wearing distinctive cedar-bark rain hats. Inside, where I met Monette, the assembled exhibits left no doubt about the tribe's maritime prowess. I saw 13ft whaling harpoons, wooden paddles and seal skin buoys. A large central space was taken up with two red cedar canoes guarded by a giant whale skeleton. We proceeded through a mock-up of a dark wooden Makah house with an opening that looked out over a hyper-realistic diorama of the seashore at Ozette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was particularly enamoured by the artistry of many of the carved wooden objects. There was a dorsal fin of a whale studded with hundreds of sea otter teeth, and an unusual figurine of a woman lying prostrate in the act of childbirth. These artefacts, along with ornate seal clubs and delicate combs, testify to a remarkable level of craftsmanship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah were skilled woodworkers,\" said Wessen. \"They exhibited levels of sophistication regarding technology that weren't appreciated before.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are several elements about the Ozette project that make it one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date. The sheer size of the collection coupled with the scale of the effort to recoup it was unprecedented. Then, there's the calibre of the preservation, which, at times, was almost surreal. Wessen recalled excavators using fire hoses to blast the clay off vegetation entrenched in the mudslide. In the process, they exposed green leafy alder branches to sunlight for the first time in more than 300 years. As the oxygen hit, the leaves would quickly turn black, but for 15 to 20 seconds, workers were treated to a glimpse of a bright green leaf from 1700.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETribal elders were integral in helping archaeologists understand the meaning of many of the artefacts and how they were used. In the 1970s, there were still a dozen or so native speakers alive in Neah Bay. The knowledge of these elders perfectly complemented the scientific expertise of the archaeologists. Wessen remembers this sharing of ideas as a powerful experience. \"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENeah Bay today has a population of just more than 1,000 people and an economy based mainly on fishing. After returning to the town from my blustery walk out to Cape Flattery, I sought shelter in a small waterfront joint called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\"\u003ECalvin's Crab House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and watched as the weather swung capriciously between sun and rain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust outside, a small monument marked the site of Fort Núñez Gaona, a colonial outpost established by a Spanish lieutenant called Salvador Fidalgo in 1792 as the first non-native settlement in the north-western US. Although the Spanish only stayed for four months, their presence marked an important historical watershed, the moment in which two cultures intersected and learned to live alongside each other in a new and different world. Uniquely, Ozette offers us a time capsule of Native life before the changes prompted by European contact.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the weather closing in, I decided against visiting the archaeological site, which is isolated and difficult to reach without a car. Unlike Pompeii, there are no ruins to walk around – although the surrounding beaches are spectacular – as the site was backfilled in 1981. All that remains today is an abandoned ranger station, a small memorial shed and some indigenous petroglyphs carved on rocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs to whether there's anything else down there, Wessen speculated there might be, but admitted that there's still more research to be done on the existing artefacts first: \"The Ozette collection in its entirety has not come anywhere close to having its full research potential realised,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-06T10:16:57Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ozette: The US' lost 2,000-year-old village","headlineShort":"North America's 'Western Pompeii'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3683","longitude":"-124.5989","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","summaryShort":"It's one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","entity":"article","guid":"e616becc-5dab-4076-8d99-d4019d2287b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","_id":"62df7f5443d9f46d9838b61a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's crazy to think they would have sailed right past here,\" Darron Patterson said, pulling his car onto a scrap of grass overlooking the murky Mobile River. As president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclotildastory.com\u002F\"\u003EClotilda Descendants Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Patterson is well versed in talking about the voyage of the Clotilda – the last known slave ship to reach America. His great-great-grandfather was Kupollee, later renamed Pollee Allen; one of the 110 men, women and children cruelly stolen from Benin in West Africa and brought to the US onboard the notorious ship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner was set ablaze","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe story of how Patterson's relative arrived in America aboard an illegal slaver started as a shockingly flippant bet. Fifty-two years after the US banned the importation of enslaved people, in 1860, a wealthy Alabama business owner named Timothy Meaher wagered that he could orchestrate for a haul of kidnapped Africans to sail under the noses of federal officers and evade capture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the assistance of Captain William Foster at the helm of an 80ft, two-mast schooner, and following a gruelling six-week transatlantic passage, he succeeded. The ship sneaked into Mobile Bay on 9 July under a veil of darkness. To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner – made from white oak frames and southern yellow pine planking – was set ablaze and scuttled to the depths of the swampy Mobile River, where it lay concealed beneath the water, its existence relegated to lore. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat is until almost 160 years later, when during a freakishly low tide, a local reporter named Ben Raines discovered a hefty chunk of shipwreck in the Mobile River, initially thought to belong to the Clotilda. It turned out to be a false alarm, but the discovery reignited interest and led to an extensive search involving multiple parties, including the Alabama Historical Commission, National Geographic Society, Search Inc and the Slave Wrecks Project. Following their exhaustive effort, in May 2019 it was finally announced that the elusive Clotilda had at long last been discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A mural of the Clotilda slave ship on Africatown Boulevard in Africatown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENow, three years later, the city of Mobile finds itself standing on the brink of a tourism boom, as interest in the story of the Clotilda, and the lives of its resilient captives, builds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson had agreed to drive me around Africatown, an area where many of the ship's captives finally settled and where Patterson himself was raised. We began the tour at this scrap of land by the Mobile River, beneath a soaring interstate bridge where a group of Clotilda slave ship descendants meet annually for their Under the Bridge festival, to \"talk about how our ancestors got here and to have some food and dance,\" Patterson said. There was no festival that day though and the atmosphere was muted; just one woman and her grandson played by the marshy water's edge below the steady hum of traffic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201117-santo-domingo-the-city-that-kept-slavery-silent\"\u003EThe city that kept slavery silent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\"\u003ECape Town's secret slave ship\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US city transformed by heartbreak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking back to his car, Patterson, a former sportswriter now in his 60s, recalled that growing up, Africatown was a thriving, self-sufficient place, where \"the only time we needed to leave the community was to pay a utility bill\" as everything needed was close to hand, aside from a post office.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated three miles north of downtown Mobile, Africatown was founded by 32 of the original Clotilda survivors following emancipation at the end of the Civil War, in 1865. Longing for the homeland they'd been brutally ripped from, the residents set up their own close-knit community to blend their African traditions with American folkways, raising cattle and farming the land. One of the first towns established and controlled by African Americans in the US, Africatown had its own churches, barbershops, stores (one of which was owned by Patterson's uncle); and the Mobile County Training School, a public school that became the backbone of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, this once-vibrant neighbourhood fell on hard times when a freeway was constructed in the heart of it in 1991, and industrial pollution meant that many of the remaining residents eventually packed up and left. \"We couldn't even hang out our washing to dry because it would get covered in ash [a product of the oil storage tanks and factories on the outskirts of Africatown],\" said Patterson. With the high-profile closure of the corrugated box factory, International Paper, in 2000, and an ensuing public health lawsuit brought about by residents, Africatown's community that had swelled to 12,000 people in the 1960s plummeted to around 2,000, where it stands today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A marker commemorating Cudjoe Kazoola Lewis, one of the Clotilda survivors","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe exodus, poverty and environmental scars were visible as Patterson drove further into Africatown. The roadside was littered with abandoned factories. The quiet, residential streets were peppered with empty lots and vacant homes, some in such disrepair that their decaying walls had surrendered entirely to the creeping vines engulfing them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Africatown is changing, once again. With the discovery of the ship's remnants came the interest necessary to rebuild and preserve this historical place; an influx of attention and funds that is affecting everything from personal relationships to history to the fortune of the neighbourhood. Because, though the story of the Clotilda was known – and the lives of the original passengers were so well documented that photos, interviews and even film footage existed – without evidence of the vessel, the history was buried and it was not in the interest of the white population to acknowledge the truth of how they had arrived. Finding the vessel allowed their story to be affirmed and truth to be restored after decades of denial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the almost three years since the Clotilda was discovered, the wreck has undergone extensive archaeological exploration to determine the likelihood of raising it safely. The ripple effect of media and public interest has meant a slew of government, community and private funding for Africatown's revitalisation, including The Africatown Redevelopment Corporation, which is using grants to restore homes in disrepair and demolishing and rebuilding derelict lots. Added to this is a $3.6 million payout from a BP oil spill settlement that has been earmarked for the long-awaited rebuilding of the Africatown Welcome Center, which was swept away in 2005 by Hurricane Katrina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson drove me to his grandmother's house and pulled over to chat with an elderly neighbour on her porch (\"no photos, mind\", she requested politely). Unlike some of the other descendent families, he told me, growing up he was told little of his ancestry. \"I think my folks may have been embarrassed,\" he reflected, recalling that the smuggled captives had faced many humiliations, including being stripped naked for the voyage. \"That must have just broke their will,\" Patterson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Africatown street overlooking the Mobile Country Training School","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe 2019 announcement of the ship's discovery galvanised Patterson's curiosity, and he started to piece together his heritage, at which point his \"whole life changed\". He's since become hands-on in ensuring the story is told accurately, including an onscreen role in the film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt16376494\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDescendant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E premiering at the 2022 Sundance Film Festival and as co-producer of the second installment of the forthcoming documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southalabama.edu\u002Fdepartments\u002Fpublicrelations\u002Fpressreleases\u002F060418africatown.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 110: The Last Enslaved Africans Brought to America\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about the Clotilda's passengers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Patterson, the discovery of the infamous ship brings fresh hope that Africatown is on the eve of a renaissance. Following years of denial, \"the ship's very existence has finally been affirmed, so a burden has been lifted,\" said Mobile County Commissioner Merceria Ludgood. \"That's every bit as important to the ethos of Africatown as the housing revitalisation currently happening.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough there's a lack of restaurants and tourism facilities, that could be all set to change as well, said Ludgood, who is helping to set up the Africatown Heritage House, a permanent museum created in collaboration with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.historymuseumofmobile.com\u002F\"\u003EHistory Museum of Mobile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to chart the history of Africatown. \"Hopefully cottage industries will spring up, owned by people who live in the community,\" she said, noting that the discovery of the Clotilda has given Africatown's community a boost, resonating far beyond economics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENext on Patterson's tour was the Africatown Heritage House, situated in the hub of the neighbourhood, overlooked by a row of modest, well-kept bungalows on a palm-lined avenue. Currently under construction, the museum is due to open in early summer 2022 and will include a gallery of West African artefacts as well as salvaged sections of the Clotilda shipwreck, presented in preservation tanks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt promises a unique insight, given the relatively recent timing of the Clotilda voyage in relation to the history of slavery. \"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation,\" explained Meg McCrummen Fowler, director of the History Museum of Mobile. \"There's just an abundance of sources, mostly because it occurred so late. Several of the people on the ship lived well into the 20th Century, so instead of silence there's diaries, there's ship records.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Building site of Africatown Heritage House in Mobile, Alabama","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther regeneration projects on the horizon include a footbridge connecting the two areas of Africatown currently divided by the freeway. Water tours taking visitors close to the shipwreck site are scheduled to launch in spring 2022, and a few local residents ahead of the curve are offering walking tours of Africatown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile tourists have yet to arrive in serious numbers, Africatown faces a familiar set of challenges to other US neighbourhoods experiencing rapid revitalisation, including ensuring the whole community supports change and that residents don't fall through the cracks. But Patterson said that the Africatown community is united in its mission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're all on board with this,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe final stop on our tour was the cemetery where many of the Clotilda's enslaved have been laid to rest. As we walked, Patterson told me that with the light currently shinning on this troubling chapter of history, he has hopes that there will be enough sustained interest to generate the funds needed to raise the schooner from the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the true impact of this fabled ship's discovery is yet to be seen, for Patterson, it presents an opportunity to lift up the Africatown community and honour the struggles of its founders. \"This is about more than bricks and mortar, it's ultimately about the growth of our souls,\" he said, looking out over their crumbling gravestones, all facing east towards their motherland. \"Finding the ship has finally validated our truth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Darron Patterson standing on the site of the future Africatown Welcome Center, Mobile","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Facebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Twitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-08T10:23:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The last known ship of the US slave trade","headlineShort":"The last ship of the US slave trade","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.6954","longitude":"-88.0399","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","summaryShort":"It's led to a new start for the settlement built by the original survivors","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-07T21:24:51.763388Z","entity":"article","guid":"ecdd9815-5480-432c-969b-e62f1822c21c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:40.005003Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","_id":"62df7fe743d9f46d167d9642","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In predominately Muslim countries, women are discouraged from scuba diving. But with trailblazers proving they can do it, are the figures about to be buoyed up?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe scariest part of diving is always that moment before you take the first step into the water. Staring down into dark, endless waves – weighed down by diving gear – you find yourself questioning what you are about to do, especially if, like me, you'd volunteered to be the first to leave the vessel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was going through the usual feelings of apprehension standing above the Red Sea, just off the coast of Aqaba in south Jordan. I'd already got over my fear of diving a couple of years previously – following a bad try-dive experience as a backpacker a decade earlier – and was now undertaking an advance PADI (Professional Association of Dive Instructors) course. But still, with an inner voice telling me I shouldn't jump, I found it difficult to take the plunge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen I saw Wa'ed Alma'aytah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe was leading a group of first-time divers, and at first, I thought it was a neoprene hood she was wearing on her head. But after jumping into the water and watching her as I explored the soft corals amid eagle rays and brightly coloured reef fish, I realised that she was diving in her hijab. And not just diving, but leading and teaching a group of students hoping to become PADI certified.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Wa'ed is very special,\" said Khaled Kenawy, managing director of dive company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoaqaba.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGo Aqaba\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, when I climbed back onto the deck and asked who she was. \"She was the first female dive instructor in Jordan – we are lucky to have her working for us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrought up in a fairly strict Muslim community in the Jordanian city of Al-Karak, Wa'ed was – as all her female friends were – discouraged from participating in outdoor activities, particularly anything deemed \"adventurous\". But in 2013, after she finished school studying accounting and IT, she serendipitously found a job in a dive shop in Aqaba. It was here that her whole life changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was something I never thought I should or could do. Women from my community didn't do it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the dive instructors asked if I wanted to try diving,\" she told me, as we chatted on the boat. \"It was something I never thought I should or could do. Women from my community didn't do it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite her concerns about what people might say, she decided to take the big step – literally off the back of a dive vessel. It changed her whole perspective. \"When I got into the water and saw all the life down there and experienced fish coming close to me, it made me very happy. I wasn't worried about what anyone would think anymore, just overwhelmed by the calm and the silence. I knew I wanted more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWa'ed wasn't just thinking of more dive excursions for fun. She was sure she wanted to take this up professionally and become an instructor so she could teach others the joy of exploring the aquatic life underwater. But first she had to tell her family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I worried, but though they were surprised they were very supportive,\" she said, as we began to pull our wetsuits back on and get into the water for further exploration. \"Despite some people from my community saying it wasn't something a woman should do, my parents encouraged me, which made me determined to carry on, to show people that women can do something different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELifting our air cylinders onto our backs, she described the next dive site we were headed to: a sunken military tank, scuttled to create an artificial reef for marine life. While our boat manoeuvred us to the entry point, she talked of her own internal battle with her decision to become a diver. \"I did worry that people were disapproving and what they would think of me for doing this – and what they would think of my parents for letting me. But though there were disapproving comments within our community, if I wanted to be a diver I had to be brave and do it anyway. Now I'm an instructor, and I think it has made people think differently about women diving and doing activities like this.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWa'ed was being modest. Not only has she changed some people's opinions of what women should and shouldn't do in Jordan, but she was responsible for taking out another woman several years later who was so inspired by her that she went on to become the second female scuba dive instructor in the country and now works in another dive centre on the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce more we stepped off into the water to explore the world beyond the surface. Lionfish gathered in the darkened corners of the sunken army vehicle, while brain sponges had set up residence close to the hatch on the roof. Wa'ed pointed out an array of critters I would certainly have missed without her, including small shrimps, a number of starfish and the tiny but colourful blennies poking out from crevices in the metalwork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom there we headed to the Seven Sisters site, so named for the multiple bommies (outcrops of coral) that rise up off the ocean floor, where yellow and white butterflyfish elegantly swished passed our goggles, and the electric blue of a damselfish darted between shoals of striped fusiliers as they fanned around the towering underwater pillars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we moved through the water, I thought about how few female dive instructors I've actually met around the world. According to PADI, the activity is still very much dominated by men: globally, of the 128,000 instructors globally, just 20% of instructors (at all levels) are currently female. In Europe, the Middle East and Africa the number sinks – to around 16% – and in predominately Muslim countries, that figure plummets further, with less than 10% in the countries of Bahrain, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and the UAE.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked PADI if the numbers look to be increasing, they said that due to the Covid pandemic it was hard to answer clearly, but did agree that \"in general, there is opportunity to grow the female ranks of PADI Professionals – and demand for female PADI Pros worldwide\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe organisation has started to promote women working in their world, particularly in places where they are not encouraged to be as active in the outdoors, such as the Middle East. They have launched an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.padi.com\u002Fambassadivers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmbassaDiver programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where they use their website and social media channels to tell the stories of these women breaking the mould. These include Master Scuba Diver Trainer Nouf Alosaimi from Saudi Arabia – the first Saudi female technical diver, who founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpinkbubblesdivers\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPink Bubbles Divers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a female diving community that encourages women to connect with the ocean); and Ehdaa Al-Barwani who is the first female PADI instructor from Oman and runs \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.auradivers.com\u002Fopen-water-diver-oman\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewomen-only dive courses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne thing is for certain, the number of women divers in Jordan has increased since Wa'ed joined Go Aqaba in 2018. According to Khaled, there are now five of them teaching scuba diving in Aqaba, and they've seen a rise in female customers too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every year we have a PADI Women's Dive Day on 20 July,\" said Khaled. \"In 2020, after the pandemic, Aqaba became the first city in Jordan to re-open and we were surprised and pleased to have 100 ladies coming out to try diving in Aqaba that day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we re-surfaced for the final time, I asked Wa'ed whether she preferred taking men or women on dive excursions. \"It makes no difference,\" she said. \" I just love to take out new divers and see their faces afterwards – I can tell just how much they have enjoyed the experience. Once we're in the water, we're all the same.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince meeting Wa'ed, I'm somehow less afraid of jumping into new dive sites. Here was someone who was breaking cultural norms every time she broke the surface of the water. And, if she could do that and thrive, then I could definitely take a leap of faith.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-03T03:17:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The rise of the female scuba diver in Jordan","headlineShort":"The Muslim divers breaking the rules","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"29.5321","longitude":"35.0063","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In predominately Muslim countries, women are discouraged from scuba diving. But with trailblazers proving they can do it, are the figures about to be buoyed up?","summaryShort":"In predominately Muslim countries, less than 10% of instructors are female","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-02T21:22:45.892527Z","entity":"article","guid":"e0de3162-3371-4bfc-a36b-f2d4a10a067e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-06T14:14:16.501377Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake","_id":"6328ecb343d9f4572408ae19","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ferinne-magee"],"bodyIntro":"Steamboats were once a glamorous means of transport for tourists summering at Moosehead Lake – but when the era faded, ship owners sank the once-beloved vessels.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A hundred years ago there were dozens of these things cruising around here,\" said a man who'd suddenly appeared next to me at the dock as I watched the approaching steamboat. He'd startled me out of my reverie, my gaze caught somewhere between the shimmer that dances across Moosehead Lake and the seaplanes taking off toward Mount Katahdin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI grew up in the US state of Maine at a smaller lake not far from here, and I spent many summers taking day trips to Moosehead Lake with my family. But this was the first time I boarded the historical \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.katahdincruises.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESteamboat Katahdin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the last of a once-numerous fleet that used to ferry hordes of well-dressed elites from nearby train depots to the area's luxury resorts for their summer holidays. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven though the lake is 310 sq km (the state's biggest), it was hard to imagine as many as 50 vessels cruising around it. \"What happened to the rest of them?\" I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe pointed down to the murky water. Apparently, many are sitting at the bottom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom roughly the 1830s to the 1930s, when the steamboats were in operation, this lake and surrounding woods in northern Maine were as popular for American tourists as a visit to the Hamptons or Cape Cod today. US author Henry David Thoreau was captivated by these millions of acres of forestland. In his 1864 book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=2DJc00C27NMC\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maine Woods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, he recounted standing at the top of Mount Katahdin: \"I could see… boundless forests, and lakes, and streams, gleaming in the sun.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0pq4h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the era's logging industry made the area more accessible, summer tourism bloomed around Moosehead Lake (which Thoreau described \"like a gleaming silver platter at the end of the table\"). People from major East Coast cities would swarm in for the season, reaching the remote area by taking a train or stagecoach to the village of Greenville Junction on the south shore of the lake, and then boarding one of the dozens of steamboats – also used for hauling logging equipment, mail and cattle – that would zip them to grand hotels, like the famed 500-room \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mainememory.net\u002Fartifact\u002F80757\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount Kineo House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. One of the largest hotels in the country at the time, it boasted a bowling alley, telephone, electricity, three steam yachts and even its own baseball team. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't think many people realise the extent of how much tourism the Moosehead Lake region had at the turn of the century,\" said Ryan Robbins, who grew up on the shores of the lake. \"It was a boomtown because of its natural resources, remoteness and awe-inspiring beauty. The steamboat industry was the backbone that allowed it all to happen. At the time, the region was known country-wide and was published in sporting magazines and directories all over.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut when roads were built between major towns around the lake and logging started to dwindle, there wasn't much use for these steamboats anymore. Resorts began to close and tourism declined; the Great Depression and World War Two made things even harder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0pww5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKeyth Carter, who lives in Moosehead's most populated town of Greenville (where she was a schoolteacher for 35 years) is the granddaughter of Stillman Sawyer, a boat captain and builder of the steamboat era. Stillman's wife, Bertie, kept a detailed diary of those times. On 8 April 1935, Bertie wrote: \"Stillman got word he was released from the mail contracts so no more boats. I am feeling sad about it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every time I read this entry, I pause and think about the worry and stress she must have felt for their future,\" said Carter. \"Stillman's life, their family's life, had everything to do with the business of running boats on Moosehead Lake. What would they do now without the business of the mail contracts? Now that the road to Rockwood was completed, would people still need the services of the passenger boats to transport them or their supplies up the lake?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween the 1940s and '70s, the steamboats indeed met their end. Some vessels were salvaged for parts and one was accidentally wrecked, but many were scuttled in Moosehead Lake when owners realised they were consuming more time, space and money than they were worth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0pqg9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe last one left was the Steamboat Katahdin, which had started ferrying passengers in 1915 and which closed out the US logging era in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1976\u002F09\u002F08\u002Farchives\u002Flast-log-drive-in-us-floating-to-end-in-maine.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enation's last log drive in 1975\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, helping to transport timber down the Kennebec River off Moosehead Lake. \"The Kate\", as she's affectionately known, was initially destined to be scuttled too, until a group of local citizens organised to have her donated to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.katahdincruises.com\u002Fmuseum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoosehead Marine Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcatalog.archives.gov\u002Fid\u002F88687109\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eplaced on the National Register of Historic Places\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.katahdincruises.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoffers a variety of public cruises daily\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from late June to mid-October.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Listening to my aunts and uncles talk about their trips with their father on the boats was always interesting,\" Carter said. \"In 2019, on a special family cruise aboard the Katahdin, my 98-year-old Aunt Ginny took the wheel of the ship and was telling the captain, Rocky, where the cruising channel was and what rocks to look out for.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0pr3h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a teenager, Liz McKeil spent her summers volunteering at the Moosehead Marine Museum. Today, she is the museum's executive director. Soon after taking the job in 2013, she came across a binder as she was going through office files: it contained dive maps of Moosehead Lake. McKeil was already well acquainted with the lake's history but had never seen these underwater maps, which had been drawn up by local diver Chris Hugo back in the '90s and detailed the locations of five scuttled steamboats. \"They really captured my imagination – almost like a treasure map would,\" McKeil said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"I came up from my first dive in Moosehead [Lake] bug-eyed and realised that others needed to see this\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERobbins, however, was already familiar with Hugo's dive documents. Having grown up on the lake, he had been curious about the wrecks since childhood. Eventually he realised that he wanted more than the occasional glimpse of submerged steamboats when the sun hit the water just right, and he got his Scuba certification so that he could explore beneath the surface. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I came up from my first dive in Moosehead bug-eyed and realised that others needed to see this,\" said Robbins, who went on to found the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fmooseheadlakedivers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoosehead Lake Divers Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2015 and make short \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=FGJmLNJCCDI\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evideos of his dives\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As of today, there are nine known intact steamboats under the waters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d0prwr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA mutual friend introduced McKeil to Robbins, and the two dreamed up a project based on their shared interest: a documentary about the sunken steamboats and an oral history effort to preserve stories of their glory days. With the help of a slew of locals – including former steamboat workers and residents who remember the tail end of the lake's vacation era – they recently completed \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmooseheadsteamboats.com\u002Ftrailer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Steamboats of Moosehead Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which they are currently submitting to film festivals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The steamboats are symbolic of a time when our region was prosperous and bustling with activity,\" said McKeil. \"The local population was almost twice what it is today, and families thrived serving the various needs of the hospitality and lumber industries.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, there may not be any 500-room resorts in the area, but tourism is still alive. Folks these days come to enjoy the simplicity of going to \"camp\" (local slang for taking up residence at what others may know as a cabin, cottage or lake house). They check into one of the historical inns and perhaps book a moose-spotting tour or seaplane ride – or board the Kate for a cruise, as I did. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHopefully, they also find the chance to talk to locals, who can share stories of the area's rich past, both above and below the water. \"The Katahdin, as the last remaining steamboat, reminds us of who we are as a community,\" McKeil said. \"She provides a sense of constancy and assurance that, with perseverance, our region can return to prosperity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2022-09-20T10:25:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Maine lake full of sunken steamboats","headlineShort":"The US lake of sunken steamboats","image":["p0d0q7gf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.671756","longitude":"-69.9542636","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0d0q7gf"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Steamboats were once a glamorous means of transport for tourists summering at Moosehead Lake – but when the era faded, ship owners sank the once-beloved vessels.","summaryShort":"Nine scuttled steamboats tell the story of a beloved era of tourism","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-19T22:26:41.132621Z","entity":"article","guid":"fadabd6c-7f1e-4ef5-8f7e-4b3eb9092e19","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-19T22:40:41.672297Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220919-the-sunken-steamboats-of-maines-moosehead-lake","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine","_id":"630fdf2b43d9f46f44746f56","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fclarissa-wei"],"bodyIntro":"Once seen as experimental and at the fringe of what's possible, a commercial wine industry in regions just below the Arctic circle is taking advantage of the warmer summers.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Emma Serner met and fell in love with Italian enologist Andrea Guerra in Tuscany, the young couple began to dream about starting their own vineyard together. \"We were both very invested in climate topics and environmental questions,\" said Serner, who was interning at the vineyard Guerra was working at. \"But I really felt like it would be impossible to do in the south of Europe. Climate change really has become drastic and it's affecting agriculture in a very severe way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, heat waves, drought and smoke from wildfires \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-58299125\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehave wreaked havoc\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on vineyards around Europe, making it increasingly difficult to produce the same legacy wines that producers have consistently been churning out for centuries. Last year, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Ffood\u002F2021\u002Fnov\u002F05\u002Fwarning-over-extremely-low-wine-production-in-europe-due-to-bad-weather\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esouthern European winemakers faced historically low harvests\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to bad weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESerner suggested heading up to her home country of Sweden and setting up a vineyard on the island of Gotland, a southern province with warm, mild summers where her grandmother owned a summerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Guerra wasn't sure. \"He had never heard of Gotland,\" Serner said, \"He asked, 'What is it? Are there polar bears?' You know, all the southern European myths about Sweden came up. And then he started asking very intricate questions about soil composition, climate, air humidity, UV radiation and the average temperature. After quite a while, he said he was still very sceptical, but there is potential.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey took a leap of faith, and today, Serner and Guerra are the co-founders of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.langmyrevineri.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELångmyre Vineri\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a 10-acre vineyard on Gotland, with a collection of 26,000 vines. They are part of a small yet growing cohort of Swedish winemakers whose collective land area spans between 370 to 500 acres. \"It was really just a fantasy,\" admitted Serner. \"But things kind of escalated quite quickly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88xy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the world gets hotter, cool climate viticulture is becoming increasingly attractive. Since the late 1800s, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.c2es.org\u002Fcontent\u002Fchanges-in-climate\u002F#:~:text=The%20Earth%20is%20Warming&text=is%20undoubtedly%20warming.-,The%20Earth's%20average%20surface%20temperature%20has%20increased%20by%20about%201.8,global%20average%20annual%20temperatures%20here.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaverage global temperature\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has risen about 1C, which might seem incremental but has significant repercussions for the wine industry. \"A 2C global increase in temperature could remove 55% of wine growing regions worldwide and 4C could remove over 70% of these regions from production,\" said Debbie Inglis, the director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrocku.ca\u002Fccovi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Canada, citing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F338862645_Diversity_buffers_winegrowing_regions_from_climate_change_losses#pf2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea 2020 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce seen as experimental and at the fringe of what's possible, a commercial wine industry in regions just below the Arctic circle is taking advantage of the warmer summers. In the last decade, southern Sweden, Denmark, Nova Scotia in Canada and even parts of Norway have become emerging wine destinations, a development spurred by hotter summers and the introduction of disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties that can resist the frigid winters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"During the last 20 years, we've had the opportunity to harvest grapes on yearly basis,\" said Lotta Nordmark, a horticulturist and researcher at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, about the Swedish wine industry. \"In earlier years when you tried to grow wine in Sweden, it wasn't guaranteed that you could get a good harvest every year.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESweden has been dabbling in viticulture since 1999, but wine makers didn't start hitting their stride until around 2010 when cold-hardy hybrid grapes like Solaris were introduced via Germany, according to Sveneric Svensson, the chairman of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsvensktvin.se\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish Wine Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Solaris was born in Frankfurt, but it's really too warm for it there,\" Svensson said. \"In Sweden, because it's colder, it's got a slow and nice development that doesn't ripen that brutally.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88ws"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom an environmental standpoint, hybrid grapes are disease resistant cultivars that don't require much or any pesticides or fungicides – the main reason why Serner and Guerra decided to set up shop in southern Sweden instead of Italy. \"We firmly believe that these hybrid varieties are the future of sustainable wine growing,\" said Serner. \"People are so fixated with making the same wine from the same varieties, even though the recipe that was written 200 years ago was made when the world looked different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn old wine countries like Italy and France, there are strict appellation rules dictating what type of grapes can be grown and where. But the problem is that with the changing climate, some of these legacy grapes no longer thrive as well as they did before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If you grow the conventional varieties, you can try to be organic, but you will have to spray at one point because they will get sick,\" said Serner. \"We didn't want to be locked in that situation.\" Many emerging wine regions, on the other hand, do not have regulations on grapes – a freedom that many winegrowers find to be more sustainable in the long run.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn Sweden's largest vineyard, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farildsvingard.se\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArilds Vingård\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, head winemaker Joe Roman estimates that 90% of their grapes are of the Solaris variety, which can be made into bright white or sparkling wines with high levels of acidity. Roman, who grew up in California and studied wine making in Oregon, also chose to work in the Swedish wine industry because of its predilection for hybrids. \"It's much better for the planet. You spray much less,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88pq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated on a peninsula in southern Sweden, Arilds looks like a classic European vineyard. Rows of perfectly manicured vines sit neatly on 74 acres of land; a cluster of glamping tents for guests is situated in the middle. Near the entrance, a restaurant and bar is packed with visitors in sundresses and cargo pants sipping on a range of estate-made white, sparkling and rosé wines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd they're not the only ones offering an all-inclusive experience. Further north in the neighbouring province is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fastadvingard.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EÄstad Vingård\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a resort and vineyard with a Michelin-starred restaurant on its property, where patrons can take guided vineyard tours before heading to dinner or enjoying an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fwelcome-to-swedens-underwater-sauna-jtj8ljvwmgq\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunderwater sauna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The estate specialises in sparkling wine; winemaker Claes Bartoldsson estimates they've churned out around 25,000 bottles this year. The plan is to eventually multiply that production number by 10. \"Last year we had the biggest harvest here ever and the rest of Europe was a disaster,\" said Bartoldsson, citing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbusiness\u002F2021\u002Fsep\u002F07\u002Ffrench-wine-output-frosts-weather\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereports of flooding, hail and diseases down south\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Last year we had the biggest harvest here ever and the rest of Europe was a disaster.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETouring the two Swedish vineyards in the summer is a novelty for Scandinavians who have never thought to associate their part of the world with wine. It's just warm enough to inspire shorts and a T-shirt, but rarely gets so scorching hot as to force people to seek refuge in the shade. By contrast, at least one wine festival was cancelled this year in Bordeaux, France, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Fworld\u002Feurope\u002Fbordeaux-region-bans-outdoor-events-heat-wave-hits-france-2022-06-17\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas officials temporarily banned\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outdoor and non-air conditioned gatherings due to extreme heatwaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt both Arilds and Ästad, wines made from Solaris grapes are the highlights; they taste bright and floral, with notes of green apple, elderflower and pear. \"Many of the Solaris wines taste very much like Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand. You have the freshness and it's very crispy wine,\" said Jeanette Bohman, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fswedishwinecenter.se\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish Wine Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a bar dedicated to highlighting wines in the region. Bohman admits that the quality of local wine wasn't exactly up to par a decade ago but has really matured in the last six years. \"We have about 80 different Swedish wines at the wine bar,\" she said. \"They're all good in some way. They have their own taste. They have their own character.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx8tyy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe wine scene in Denmark is similar – albeit a bit older. \"We first saw winemaking in Denmark in the '90s,\" said Kristian Rise, the beverage manager of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpoplburger.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPOPL Burger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Copenhagen burger restaurant owned by Rene Redzepi of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnoma.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoma\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I remember having snowstorms in October when I was little. This doesn't happen anymore and is therefore great for winemaking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his spare time, Rise makes his own wine, and he and his father tend to 150 Rondo grapevines, a hybrid dark grape with a flavour profile of red berries, dark spicy fruit and rhubarb. \"Typically, dark skinned grapes have a hard time ripening here but Rondo can survive the colder late summer and still yield good colour and aromas,\" he said. He predicts that the Danish wine scene will only continue to grow, comparing it to that of Germany. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet despite the optimism, the market for Scandinavian-made wine remains quite limited. \"We are not yet competitive on an international market,\" said Nina Højgaard Jensen, an award-winning Danish sommelier, pointing out that the wines simply have not had enough time to cultivate \"a sense of place\" compared to their southern European counterparts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPrice relative to quality is another limiting factor. \"[Swedish wine] is quite good but not extraordinary good,\" added Per Karlsson, a Swedish wine writer and co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bkwine.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBKWine Magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noting that a single bottle can sometimes cost up to 30 euros. \"Labour is expensive and quite frankly, even if though it's slightly warmer today, it's still a challenging climate. There is also a huge challenge from a marketing perspective. People tend to drink wines that they're familiar with.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88yn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat familiarity, however, might eventually change as the climate crisis alters the chemistry of wine. Hotter temperatures make grapes produce more sugar, which is then converted to alcohol. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've seen slightly higher alcohol in many places. There's been a move worldwide from roughly 12%, maybe 100 years ago as an average, to about 14% today,\" said Gregory Jones, wine climatologist and CEO of \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fclarissaanderberg\u002FDownloads\u002FAbacela%20Winery\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbacela Winery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Oregon. High alcohol levels are desirable if the producer is going for a full-bodied dry red wine, but in places like Champagne, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdaily.sevenfifty.com\u002Fhow-champagne-producers-are-preserving-acidity-as-the-climate-changes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egrowers have had to adapt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E drastically in order to retain brightness in their sparkling wines. One of the distinguishing features of cool climate wine is its relatively low alcohol content – an envious and harder-to-achieve trait for producers located down south.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrowers located closer to the poles have a clear advantage when it comes to making white and sparkling wines. \"You can say that Nova Scotia is a carbon copy of Champagne 25 years ago,\" said Jean-Benoit Deslauriers, head winemaker of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbenjaminbridge.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBenjamin Bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Nova Scotia, Canada. \"As things migrate with the climate crisis, all of a sudden we have this textural lushness in our wine that is a by-product of a longer growing season.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Growers located closer to the poles have a clear advantage when it comes to making white and sparkling wines","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJones agreed. \"Maybe not an absolute carbon copy but very close,\" he said. \"Similar to the United Kingdom, Nova Scotia has warmed enough over the last 25 years to have longer growing seasons that allow fruit to ripen to levels seen in Champagne a few decades ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe shift in growing conditions might sound romantic, but winemakers up north are careful not to glorify the effects of climate change. \"Climate change is more of a problem for others than a benefit for us,\" stressed Svensson. While producers in colder climates are spared from intense heat waves, they have their own set of challenges like early frost, mildew and rot. Exceptionally frosty springs can cause bud damage to the vines, and cold weather can ruin entire harvests. \"In Ontario, they're estimating this year that the crop level will be down by 50% because of winter damage,\" said Inglis of the Canadian wine industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88qk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA changing climate is not discriminatory, and no one is spared from the extreme fluctuations in weather. \"The net impact for society is overwhelmingly negative,\" said Kimberly Nicholas, an assistant professor of sustainability science at Lund University in Sweden. \"If we were to experience 4C of global warming, Sweden would be the epicentre of Pinot Noir. But if we get to a world with four degrees of warming, we're not going to have a functional world. We're not going to have wine industry that can exist and thrive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf anything, climate change is forcing winemakers from all over – not just in Arctic nations – to look at alternatives. \"We might have to take North African grapes up to Italy because it doesn't rain anymore,\" said Swedish winemaker Sofia Ruhne, the second-generation owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fterreno.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerreno\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a winery in the Chianti region of Tuscany, Italy. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo mitigate the impact of heat waves, Ruhne has expanded her Italian estate into high-altitude areas – an investment that she said has paid off already. \"You can really see the difference,\" she said, noting that her high-altitude wines are less alcoholic and more acidic. She is also now conducting experiments on how to best grow wine grapes in the outskirts of Stockholm in Sweden, near a hotel she and her family owns. \"The soil outside Stockholm is very fertile because it hasn't been cultivated that many years,\" she said. \"However, vines usually tend to thrive in struggling soils, so we really need to find the right varieties.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDiversification is the key to resilience, and the experimentation happening just below the Arctic Circle might provide valuable lessons to other emerging wine regions around the world. \"I don't necessarily think it will be the great new wine region of the future,\" said Karlsson. \"But it is a really interesting place where people will continue to experiment with new kinds of varieties, which will potentially bring big benefits to the rest of the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx88w0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn keeping with this spirit, Serner and Guerra at Långmyre Vineri in Gotland have chosen not to put all their grapes in one basket. Instead of defaulting to Solaris, the cultivar of choice in Scandinavia – they have a selection of five different hybrid grapes including a dark grape called Merlot Kanthus, which is a crossing with Merlot. \"In a blind tasting with a Merlot grown in the same conditions, you would never be able to tell the difference,\" Serner said. \"Sweden is such a young wine country that it's too soon to already have one variety that we all grow.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's been six years since Serner and Guerra first met. Now, they're engaged to be married, and it's safe to say they have achieved their dream of making wine with minimal impact to the environment. Their vineyard is certified organic in Sweden under \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.krav.se\u002Fen\u002Fstandards\u002Fdownload-krav-standards\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKRAV standards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the strictest ecolabelling schemes in existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sweden will definitely continue to be one of the most sustainable wine countries in the world because we're all growing resistant varieties,\" said Serner. \"Even though we're not all certified, the practices and the vineyards are organic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-01T10:21:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Arctic Circle: A new frontier for sustainable wine","headlineShort":"Why we'll soon be drinking Arctic wine","image":["p0cx88h0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"57.4161384","longitude":"18.0438432","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cx88h0"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once seen as experimental and at the fringe of what's possible, a commercial wine industry in regions just below the Arctic circle is taking advantage of the warmer summers.","summaryShort":"Climate change and hybrid grapes have inspired winemakers at the fringe","tag":["tag\u002Fwine","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-31T22:22:17.866177Z","entity":"article","guid":"678b2357-d6fb-4fc8-96cf-925ff84ca4c7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-31T22:22:17.866177Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762258,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsweden","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_sweden_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","_id":"62df802443d9f46d95451ece","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On the small island of Heimaey, chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson is at the helm of a food movement that honours Iceland's history while coaxing it into a new era of innovation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMuch of what chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson serves at his restaurant, \u003Ca title=\"Slippurinn\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slippurinn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlippurinn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, comes from outside his door. Only instead of a backyard garden with haricots vert and artichokes, there are meandering hills that look like green dragons dusted in fairytale-pink arctic thyme; cliffs perched dramatically over untamed fields of lemony sorrel; beaches dotted with briny oyster leaf and deep craters full of yellow-topped pineapple weed growing in volcanic soil as black as night. These, plus dozens of other wild-harvested ingredients like yarrow, sea beans, spruce and rowanberries, are pureed, dried, pickled and fermented in Auðunsson's kitchen apothecary. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn, which means \"boat slip\" in Icelandic, draws inspiration from its location on Heimaey's harbour, as well as the former shipyard machine workshop in which it's housed. Many original parts of the workshop were restored, and reclaimed ship parts and tools are tucked into the bright, modern and minimalist decor, resulting in a space deeply connected to its roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson has roots here, too. He was born on Heimaey – the oldest, largest and only inhabited of the Westman Islands archipelago located off Iceland's southern coast – but moved to Reykjavík when he was six. Despite being just 6km long, Heimaey is home to the largest Atlantic puffin breeding colony in the world, the windiest point in all of Europe and the world's first open water beluga whale sanctuary. It was evacuated in 1973 when the Eldfell volcano erupted, and though most of the island's residents returned to rebuild, the agriculture that existed previously was destroyed, and hasn't flourished since. But despite the loss and devastation, magic still flourishes in this tiny paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rhubarb Cake with Spent Beer Grains and Pineapple Weed Ice Cream","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson, who has a gift for seeing the magic in the natural world, had long been questioning why the abundant resources he grew up with weren't being utilised. He got a job at his uncle's now-shuttered Reykjavík restaurant, Turninn, as a banquet cook and, later, a pastry chef, not long before the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F7851853.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2008 financial crash\u003C\u002Fa\u003E profoundly impacted the country's economy. His family was struggling to find work in Reykjavík, so they moved back to Heimaey. They knew he wanted to do something meaningful after he finished culinary school in 2011, so when his mother brought up the idea of creating a restaurant on their home island, the answer was simple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a dream to open a restaurant that would celebrate local cuisine,\" he recalls. \"But we didn't have carpenters, and had no money. We were working every morning until 11 at night for seven months to rehab the space, which hadn't been used in over 40 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a dream to open a restaurant that would celebrate local cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn opened in 2012, and was the chef's first restaurant – though he's now on his third (he was chef and co-owner of Matur og Drykkur in Reykjavik's harbour district, and currently co-owns cocktail bar \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fskalrvk.com\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fna01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=http%3A%2F%2Fskalrvk.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cbcec0be2207348530f0808d96672a780%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637653464891200033%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=HSCkw9FTNmuoEQr6oWL%2BKQVqumup1NK7VZYDKOeGuVA%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkal!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Reykjavík's Hlemmur Food Hall). He has taken advantage of the eight months each year Slippurinn isn't open to learn new skills in restaurants across the world, and has done pop-ups in London, Hong Kong, Greenland, Switzerland and Italy. Through it all, his family has been by his side. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson\u003Cem\u003E's\u003C\u002Fem\u003E mother, Katrín Gísladóttir, who started out working front of house at Slippurinn and now handles bookkeeping and floral design, admits there were occasional differences here and there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Heimaey is the oldest, largest and only inhabited of the Westman Islands archipelago","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every family has them,\" she admits. \"In some ways [the experience] brought us closer, and we have learned more about each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne thing Auðunsson was surprised to learn, however, involved his island's greatest industry: fishing. As it turned out, getting fresh fish from the boats into his restaurant wouldn't be as seamless as he initially expected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Iceland, restaurant owners have to buy fish from an online auction, or order directly from the larger companies,\" he shares, \"so you can't just go up to your local fishermen and get something straight from their boats – even if that makes perfect sense since they're right there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, after a promise from his father, Auðunn Stefnisson – Slippurinn's handyman and a fisherman himself – that their fish would go to feed locals, not \u003Cem\u003Eonly\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tourists, the fishermen changed their practices to contribute to their town's newest restaurant. In the 2021 season alone, Slippurinn served up 19 kinds of local fish and six shellfish varieties, totalling 3.8 tons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll that seafood serves as a rich palette for the many seaweed varieties Auðunsson forages, such as the delicate, hair-like strands of sea truffle, which he dries, ferments and purees, then serves alongside sweet langoustine in a rich beurre blanc with an apple, kohlrabi and wild sorrel salad. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson serves local Icelandic fish at his restaurant, Slippurinn","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe kelp he pulls off giant rocks jutting from the Atlantic are longer than a firehose, and as thick and wide as Thor's belt. In his kitchen, it becomes part of an elegant chicken stock that serves as a bath for a cod head the size of a deflated basketball. Once cooked, the head is doused in Birkir (birch liqueur) and bruleed, creating a sticky-crunchy-sweet umami bomb that's as addictive as it is Instagram-worthy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough it may seem novel, cod head plays a pivotal role when it comes to preserving Iceland's culinary past. Iceland has been a long-time exporter of dried cod, as early as the 13th Century, to many places in Europe – particularly Portugal, Spain and Italy. Referred to as stockfish because the head was not traditionally part of the export, cod heads remained in Iceland where locals used to eat it boiled with a bit of salt. Today, Icelandic cod is exported all over the world, and both stockfish and dried cod heads are exported to Italy as well as Nigeria – the largest market for dried fish in the world – but Auðunsson feels strongly that Icelanders should still be eating those cod heads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are a lot of Icelanders who don't know about Icelandic food anymore,\" he says, \"and it's important that we don't forget how things were done. We need to preserve our history.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy putting his own stamp on old traditions, he's moving Icelandic cuisine into new gastronomic territory. He even dips cod throat in beer batter, deep fries it and serves it with herbed aioli.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Slippurinn incorporates Birkir (birch liqueur) onto its dishes and drinks","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson also turns cod into perfectly salty discs topped with browned butter and pickled seaweed in an Icelandic take on sour cream and onion crisps, and dresses dried kelp crisps – so light and delicate, they crunch-melt on your tongue – with homemade sour cream and lumpfish roe as pink as a rose petal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis commitment to using local resources has always been strong, but it was his experiences in restaurant kitchens across the world that opened his eyes to just how rich some of his native resources really were.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was staging in New York, they were importing oyster leaf from Alaska, and I was sure I had seen these leaves before,\" he says. \"I realised that these leaves they were paying a dollar per piece for grew on the beaches back home!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAt Slippurinn, you can find oyster leaf on top of radishes stuffed with homemade mayonnaise. There may also be grilled broccoli slathered in garlic mayonnaise and crusted in panko and dried fish flakes, which is like crunchy, battered fish without most of the fish or grease; angelica-cured halibut so thin and translucent that the tiny pops of pink arctic thyme dusted on top turn it into art; pineapple weed ice cream with the fragrance and flavour of its namesake fruit – despite actually being chamomile – topped with a tart-sweet wild rhubarb compote; and skyr, an Icelandic cheese similar to yogurt, with wild sorrel granita and toasted oats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sheep roam Iceland's island of Heimaey","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson's sister, Indíana Auðunsdóttir, designed Slippurinn, and was largely responsible for the evolution of the cocktail programme, which is informed by what grows on Heimaey. What started as a popular wild rhubarb mojito with rhubarb from neighbours' yards led to a mojito made of white rum, raw sugar, sorrel syrup, lime, lemon bitters and sparkling water; a cocktail made of arctic thyme simple syrup, pear cider, lemon and Reyka vodka; and an Icelandic riff on a piña colada, with angelica liqueur, cream and pineapple weed vodka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also honeyed dandelion and licorice-y chervil syrups, homemade kombuchas, teas and tinctures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09yf5k7.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Slippurinn's illustrated cocktail guide, which is placed on every table, pineapple weed (called \u003Cem\u003EHlaðkolla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Icelandic) is described as \"the most exotic flavour of any herb in Iceland, which tastes quite like sweet pineapple and grows in the lava fields.\" Auðunsson elevates the weed to star status in his Icelandic Piña Colada, which relies on a base of homemade pineapple weed vodka, cream and angelica seed liqueur. He also uses the yellow tops, or buds, of the weed in an intensely creamy, deeply aromatic ice cream, the recipe for which can be found in his cookbook. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOften referred to as false or wild chamomile, pineapple weed (\u003Cem\u003EMatricaria discoidea\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) can be found in different parts of the world, growing in sidewalk cracks, parks, driveways, walking paths and places where dry soil is abundant – such as the lava fields where Auðunsson forages for his. The fact that the conical-shaped, yellowish-green buds have no petals will give it away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Tastes like pineapple","calloutTitle":"A flavourful weed","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough many of his ingredients may be unrecognisable, his food is comforting and approachable. Whether you call his style New Nordic, New Icelandic or even Modern Icelandic Comfort, the most accurate descriptor isn't an official culinary classification: transformative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmerican chef and TV host Ming Tsai had Auðunsson on his show, Simply Ming, in 2018, and was blown away by his signature bruleed cod head. Tsai, known for his East-West fusion cuisine, grew up cooking in his family's Chinese restaurant and admitted to eating his share of fish heads. Yet, in the span of 30 seconds, Tsai said, \"oh my God\" five times, followed by \"unbelievable\", \"incredible\", \"this is freaking delicious\" and \"seriously, one of the best ever\", with a grand finale of, \"my grandma is so jealous right now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETsai's reaction shows how Auðunsson's reimagining of Icelandic cuisine is so unique that even those familiar with what he's serving are moved by their experience of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne can only imagine what Tsai might have said had he tried Auðunsson\u003Cem\u003E's \u003C\u002Fem\u003Esimple, yet remarkably rich appetiser of trout on burnt flatbread with horseradish cream and red onion. Auðunsson smokes the trout over sheep's dung, fusing modern preparation with a cooking tradition created when alternate fuel sources were necessary, not optional. He supports local farmers who compress dung and hay, then semi dry it, just as it was done hundreds of years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xxxmsonormal\"\u003E\"The dung never touches the food, but gives it a special kind of smokiness,\" he says. \"It's unlike anything you've ever tasted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180117-in-iceland-food-is-a-challenge-not-a-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIn Iceland, food is a challenge, not a meal\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210211-ana-ros-the-chef-who-put-slovenia-on-the-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAna Ro&scaron;: The chef who put Slovenia on the map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGuillemot eggs as blue as the sky are also unlike anything most people have tasted – or seen. Foraged by rope on the edge of cliffs throughout the Westman Islands, the speckled turquoise eggs are emptied out and used as serving dishes for a custard Auðunsson serves with rye bread, lovage and pickled onions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn is not easy to get to, does no advertising and is only open four months every year. Yet an old shipyard machine factory on an island with less than 5,000 people has become a destination dining spot. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We all had a big ambition to have something different from other restaurants, but I never dreamed Slippurinn would be as famous and good as it is,\" Gísladóttir says. \"I am really happy about how it turned out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cod Wing with Young Spruce Hot Sauce","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson shares his mother's pride – especially when it comes to the way Slippurinn has been received in his own country. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Using the things around you when they're in season wasn't done by many in Iceland,\" he says, \"but it has been changing for the better the last few years, and I think we've influenced others in that way. I also think both the general public and those in the industry really appreciate Icelandic food instead of looking down on it as they did years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the cookbook, Slippurinn: Recipes and Stories from Iceland, coming out on 13 October, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FMichelinGuideUK\u002Fstatus\u002F1097547719290339329\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichelin Bib Gourmand recognition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for his cocktail bar, Skal!, and a spot on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fslow-food-chefs-alliance-to-be-started-iceland\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food Chefs' Alliance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where his voice impacts Iceland's food heritage and agricultural landscape, the future looks bright for Auðunsson.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't have a specific passion for fine dining or selling groceries,\" he says. \"My vision is bigger: I want to put Icelandic food on the map. Fifteen years ago, I don't think this would have worked, but people are definitely ready for a change. You can feel it. I think there are really exciting times ahead for Iceland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Raw Vegetables and Oyster Leaf Emulsion","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERaw vegetables and oyster leaf emulsion\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's nothing better than crunchy raw vegetables or a newly cleaned salad right after harvest. With a little bit of seasoning here and there, the right amount of acidity, salt and fat, you can create something extraordinary from just simple raw vegetables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the dehydrated lovage powder:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E40g lovage\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDehydrate the lovage on a baking sheet in an oven on the lowest setting or in a dehydrator at 55C (130F) for about 10 hours or until completely dry. Blend in a blender until it's a fine powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the oyster leaf emulsion:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E40g oyster leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g parsley\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E300ml vegetable oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 clove garlic\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 shallot\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 egg yolks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g Dijon mustard\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10ml apple cider vinegar sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Elemon juice\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPut the oyster leaves, parsley, vegetable oil, garlic and shallot in a blender and blend for about 8 minutes or until the oil reaches 75C (167F). Strain and let cool. Put the egg yolks, mustard and vinegar into the clean blender and blend. With the blender running, add the green oyster leaf oil and continue blending until the mixture is completely emulsified. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the raw vegetables:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E4 carrots, cleaned\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10 radishes, cleaned\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECut the vegetables into bite-size pieces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo plate:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Eoyster leaves, for garnish\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the side of each plate smear the emulsion and dust over the dehydrated lovage powder. Place the raw vegetables on the other side of the plate and garnish with the extra oyster leaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(Credit: Gísli Matthías Auðunsson, Slippurinn)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-12T21:22:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Slippurinn: The restaurant reinventing Icelandic cuisine","headlineShort":"The Icelandic cuisine born from crisis","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Slippurinn serves a dish of guillemot eggs, a local delicacy, in their shells","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"63.4428894","longitude":"-20.2783328","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Slippurinn serves a dish guillemot eggs, a local delicacy, in their shells","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On the small island of Heimaey, chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson is at the helm of a food movement that honours Iceland's history while coaxing it into a new era of innovation.","summaryShort":"Despite loss and devastation, magic still flourishes in this tiny paradise","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-11T22:04:19.348249Z","entity":"article","guid":"bb1530f0-4a85-4796-92f7-511ddb0a9485","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:35:37.337174Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire","_id":"62df7f7a43d9f4574b0f3373","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Evoking a deep a sense of nostalgia, chef Niklas Ekstedt has taken traditional Swedish food to a new level – by cooking fine cuisine over fire without gas or electricity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09b8mx5.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I feel strongly connected with the lakes, the forest and nature around me. I find inspiration for my dishes when I am outdoors picking mushrooms and berries and foraging for aromatic herbs and plants. In Sweden, we are lucky to have wild nature at our doorsteps. Respecting, caring and connecting with that nature will make us stronger and better people.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Niklas Ekstedt, chef\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt his Michelin-starred restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fekstedt.nu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEkstedt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located in downtown Stockholm, chef Niklas Ekstedt brings the natural world indoors. Considered one of Sweden's most famous chefs, he transforms raw ingredients into fine cuisine solely through the use of fire, ash, soot and smoke – no gas or electricity allowed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo Ekstedt, this method brings Swedish cooking back to its roots. \"Fire for me, it's like the history of humans. It is the way that we cooked the majority of the time,\" he said. Ekstedt conjured his childhood memories of being out in the woods with his parents – in the small town of Järpen in northern Sweden – and brought them into a modern restaurant setting to evoke a sense of nostalgia, a sentiment which he believes is shared with and appreciated by his diners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce part of a Scandinavian cuisine revolution back in the 1990s that focused on contemporary molecular cooking techniques, Ekstedt has become a national and international celebrity, hosting a Swedish cooking show called Niklas Mat, authoring several books (his latest being \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swedenhk.com\u002Fthe-happy-food-is-green-in-new-book\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHappy Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a deep dive into plant-focused diets) and serving as a judge on Netflix's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.netflix.com\u002Ftitle\u002F81161673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECrazy Delicious\u003C\u002Fa\u003E alongside American chef Carla Hall and Britain's Heston Blumenthal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, despite all his success and feeling a bit uncertain about what he wanted in a new restaurant venture, in 2011 Ekstedt decided to take a break from the limelight and live in a wooden cabin in the forest with his family, without any electricity or gas, and learn the ancestral techniques of cooking with open fire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to his restaurant's website, Ekstedt said, \"I roamed the land around our summer cottage on Ingarö in the Stockholm archipelago, musing like some melancholic character in a black and white Ingmar Bergman film.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210211-ana-ros-the-chef-who-put-slovenia-on-the-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef who put Slovenia on the map\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200526-swedens-single-diner-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden's single diner-restaurant\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere barbecue culture began\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter some deep soul-searching, he became inspired by the birch trees and the qualities that their smouldering wood lent to cooked food, which sent him on a new mission to bring wood-fired cooking techniques to the city. Once back in Stockholm, he researched ancient Swedish recipes, but discovered that they left out one practical ingredient: directions on how to actually cook the food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"What was interesting was that the techniques were not written down,\" he said. \"The recipes were written down but the techniques they took for granted, because they just assumed people knew how to put up a fire, how to smoke, how to use the coal and the stove.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThrough trial and error, he eventually learned how to apply the techniques to his rustic but refined menu, his own take on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.norden.org\u002Fen\u002Finformation\u002Fnew-nordic-food-manifesto\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Nordic cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now, armed with a fire pit, wood-fired oven and wood stove, he's mastered the ability to create dishes like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Frecipes\u002Fhome_smoked_cod_with_38574\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecod smoked with juniper branches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as well as tasting menus featuring items like oysters, scallops and reindeer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile vegetables are certainly part of his culinary canon, Ekstedt believes that eating meat and fish can be sustainable if done consciously, and he is inspired by the Sami, an Indigenous group of Scandinavian people who \"live from the reindeer, the meat and the land.\" He continued, \"And praising their meat will have a broader cultural importance in Sweden.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The pandemic has taught us in the food world that nature can really come back quickly","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEating sustainably sourced local food has become Ekstedt's ethos, whether cooking meats over an open hearth or foraging in the woods for blueberries or mushrooms. While he is concerned about the stresses that humans have placed on the planet's soil and waters, he offers a sense of hope, believing that lessons learned from Covid can show us how to better take care of the Earth. \"The pandemic has taught us in the food world that nature can really come back quickly,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}} \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-26T12:30:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire","headlineShort":"The Swedish chef who reinvented fire","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"59.3367499","longitude":"18.0726239","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Evoking a deep a sense of nostalgia, chef Niklas Ekstedt has taken traditional Swedish food to a new level – by cooking fine cuisine over fire without gas or electricity.","summaryShort":"His food is made solely through the use of fire, ash, soot and smoke","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:03:41.378377Z","entity":"article","guid":"9806d111-e516-4b23-a94b-a332e59f046d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:24:47.079403Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic","_id":"632a41ec43d9f46d167d9903","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fadrienne-murray-nielsen"],"bodyIntro":"Chef Poul Andrias Ziska of Koks restaurant honed his craft in the harsh North Atlantic but has now reimagined his signature locavore cooking for a Greenlandic terroir.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EFabled for its off-the-beaten track location, gourmet restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkoks.fo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKoks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is now even harder to reach. It has uprooted from the Faroe Islands, and until 2023, moved to a small village in western Greenland that's located more than 200km inside the Arctic Circle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EHere, rugged nature serves up a wild harvest of seafood and game, from prawns and halibut to reindeer and muskox (a horned and shaggy-haired bovine that resembles a bison).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EFaroese chef Poul Andrias Ziska honed his craft in the harsh North Atlantic but has now reimagined his signature locavore cooking for a Greenlandic terroir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECrispy shrimp heads with beady eyes and antennae; delicately smoked salmon sandwiched between bubbly fish-skin crackers; and tender morsels of scarlet-red ptarmigan (a bird found in mountainous northern climes) breast skewered with a white-feathered wing bone are among the dishes awaiting curious diners who seek out a table at the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the Arctic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EGreenland, like the Faroe Islands, is an autonomous Danish territory. Eighty percent of its enormous landmass is covered by a vast ice sheet and glaciers, while its tiny 56,000 population mostly lives along the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We have been thinking a lot about doing something in Greenland, because I've always found it very fascinating,\" said Ziska, who had long hoped to host an event or pop-up in the country together with other regional chefs. Meanwhile, a catalogue of problems with the premises back home was a tipping point that motivated him to relocate. \"[Greenland is] similar, but then again so very different to where we come from.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d1982z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Still today, mostly everyone is hunting and fishing. The closeness people have to their environment is a beautiful thing,\" said the 32-year-old, who focuses on sustainably and locally sourced food. \"That resonates very well with the philosophy that we have at our restaurant.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EZiska had only visited Greenland twice before, but it left a lasting impression. \"We ate with a family that had hunted all of the food themselves,\" he recalled. \"We had wild-caught trout and roe, and reindeer and muskox. It was amazing!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Having that experience I understood that, 'okay, if we have access to these raw materials, it's without a doubt possible to make something of a very high standard in Greenland'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInspired by the palette of unique ingredients, he filled up two empty suitcases with local produce and headed home to get to work conjuring up new dishes in his test kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGetting to Kok's Greenlandic reincarnation is an odyssey in itself. There are no roads. From the closest town, Ilulissat, visitors travel an hour by boat. It's an utterly breath-taking voyage, zigzagging through a maze of towering blue-white icebergs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19831"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe \"thud thud thud\" of sea-ice lulls as the village of Ilimanaq comes into view above the craggy coastline. Meaning \"place of hope\", its cluster of colourful wooden houses are home to only 50 or so people and more than a dozen sled dogs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn board, tourist Todd Brown told me he travelled to Greenland after reading about Koks in a magazine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I come from a food family,\" the Philadelphia-native told me. \"We're going to spend one night here. Have both lunch and dinner at the restaurant, and just experience something new.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerched on the village's waterfront, Koks occupies a historical black timber building with painted white window frames. A muskox skull greets guests as they enter the intimate candle-lit dining space with just 30 seats. Lending a cosy ambiance, chairs are adorned with sheep skins and diners are offered sealskin slippers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven in the late evening, Arctic sunlight glows through the windows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19837"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUpstairs, I chatted with chef Ziska, while peering out at the captivating view. Then suddenly, beyond a small iceberg adrift in the bay, a whale surfaced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EMany countries have banned whaling, however in Greenland, the tradition of whale hunting is considered important to local culture, and therefore annual quotas are set and controlled by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fiwc.int\u002Fmanagement-and-conservation\u002Fwhaling\u002Faboriginal\u002Fgreenland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Whaling Commission\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (IWC). Globally, the bowhead whale, which chef Ziska uses at Koks, is not classified as endangered or vulnerable. In Western Greenland, where stocks have increased, hunters are permitted to catch two bowhead whales each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Whale in Greenland","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Can you see? It's come up for air,\" he pointed out. \"You have whales just literally right outside here playing around.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ERight from the very first bite of his 20-course set-menu, Ziska has instilled a strong sense of place. A neat cube of whale skin and blubber, called \u003Cem\u003Emattak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is served on a simple ceramic square. For those unacquainted with this Inuit speciality, the elastic, cartilage-like texture and bitter taste can jar. But Koks' reinvention is gum-like and subtly flavoured.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\"It's a dish that tells you where you are in the world. I think it's very important to focus on, and not to shy away from where you are, even though it might be controversial to eat whale,\" he asserted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's important to deliver the message that you're in Greenland now, and this is how it is.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe creative tasting menu is a tapestry of local delicacies and the culmination of six months' work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Often we have an idea, we try it out and then a new idea comes. Maybe six, seven times until it's right.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d1983k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sometimes it's stories that provoke a little idea for a dish,\" he said. \"Sometimes you just go in with your senses – eating, smelling, touching, tasting.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach small dish is meticulously crafted into a detailed artwork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Sometimes it's stories that provoke a little idea for a dish. Sometimes you just go in with your senses – eating, smelling, touching, tasting.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom the sea, raw prawns in chamomile kombucha have a butter-like texture. Frozen slithers of white halibut, presented in dainty curls, chill your tongue as they slowly dissolve. Next, there's a mouth-watering crudo of scallops, followed by a tasting of delicate snow crab that lingers beneath a creamy mushroom foam. Not for the squeamish, a bite-size tartlet is made with kelp and seal's blood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the land, a moist reindeer tartar is wedged, taco-like, between greens. A sumptuous slice of rich and beefy, muskox braised with juniper, and its gamey broth are deliciously satisfying.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19833"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFinally, a series of desserts unexpectedly blur the boundaries of sweet and savoury.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs we toured the newly built kitchen, Ziska showed me some of the preparations. \"One of the desserts is a kombu seaweed. We do a caramel crumble on it, which is what we have here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENext, he motioned towards a young chef busy at a stove top. \"Mads is doing some limpet for one of our petit fours.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Served in a shell, the limpet petit four is sweet, toffee-like and not fishy at all","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ETransformed into a mousse, the kombu is surprisingly smooth and creamy. There's also a small cake made with roasted bladderwrack (a brown bubble-like seaweed) that imbues an unusual depth of flavour. Served in a shell, the limpet petit four is sweet, toffee-like and not fishy at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe finale of this epic meal is a fudge made from fermented garlic – its candy-like sweetness proves to be yet another trick of the tastebuds. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d1997l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe restaurant's simple setting stands in stark contrast to the cutting-edge gastronomy, performed by 14 chefs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAmong seven front-of-house staff is Bulgarian server Svetla Stoyanova, who joined the team after dining at Koks in the Faroe Islands a year ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I was on the other side [as a diner] and fascinated by how nice the waiters were. They were not pretentious. It was very casual,\" she said. \"And it's always been my dream to come to Greenland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERiffs on traditional Faroese dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Eræst\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a pungent fermented lamb) and local seabirds like gannet and fulmar, as well as imaginative renderings of seafood, earned Koks its two Michelin stars and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faroeislands.fo\u002Fthe-big-picture\u002Fnews\u002Fkoks-retains-michelin-stars-and-is-presented-new-sustainability-award\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen Clover\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for sustainability, all while Ziska was under the age of 30.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the accomplished chef said he stumbled into cooking. \"It's not like I always knew that I wanted to be a chef, it just kind of happened.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d1983h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in the Faroes' capital Torshavn, it was a pizzeria job while a teenager that gave him his first taste of kitchen work. \"I just knew a long education, sitting down was not for me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe worked at Copenhagen's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.geranium.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeranium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, now ranked the world's top restaurant by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Flist\u002F1-50\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Best\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and trained under Koks' founding chef Leif Sørensen, before taking the helm in 2014. Sørensen was among the first to sign up to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.norden.org\u002Fen\u002Finformation\u002Fnew-nordic-food-manifesto\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Nordic Food Manifesto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that emphasises local, seasonal and sustainable cooking, an ethos that Ziska embraced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIn 2018, Koks moved into a centuries-old turf-roofed farmhouse on a hillside above a small lake called Leynavatn. Reached by a short 4X4 ride, the restaurant became known for its remoteness and drew destination diners from far and wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the isolated location proved problematic. \"We couldn't continue,\" said Ziska. \"We started to have almost daily issues with electricity, with water, with a lot of different things.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis was a big push to move elsewhere, he claimed. \"We thought that it would be more fun to just say, \"okay\", let's go do something completely different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn opportunity to partner with a luxury lodge in Ilimanaq came up, and so they took the plunge. \"That was kind of our way in,\" Ziska explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d1983w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut in Greenland, the untamed nature can be challenging, too. The frigid autumn weather means Koks can only open 100 days each year during the summer. Sometimes blankets of dense fog engulf the bay, holding up supplies and guests. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\"Greenland is a massive country so sourcing is very difficult. And very expensive,\" the chef said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile fishing is a big part of the economy, most of the catch is exported, and so Ziska found that it was one ingredient that was surprisingly hard to get hold of. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"It's about making connections, something that you only can do when you're here\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The shrimps, they are so beautiful, and we get them directly out of the boats that are landing them in Ilulissat,\" he said of the seafood he buys from local fisherman. \"It's about making connections, something that you only can do when you're here,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, a natural pantry grows at his doorstep. Wild sorrel, sweet bilberries and tarty crowberries can be foraged nearby, and it's just a short stroll to the seashore where clumps of green-brown seaweed sway in the crystal-clear shallows. In the waters further out are blue mussels and sea urchins. \"We can just go out with the boat and collect it ourselves.\" Ziska said enthusiastically. \"It's easier to work as locally as possible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19835"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOutside the restaurant, young chef Brijan Andersen prepared salmon over burning coals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are smoking it with some crowberry twigs that we found around here. It's for our sandwich dish,\" he explained. It's one part of his mise en place, together with snow crab and reindeer tartar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, preparing the \u003Cem\u003Emattak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dish is Andersen's favourite. \"I kind of fell in love with that,\" he said. \"It's an elegant way of serving a very traditional Greenlandic dish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHailing from south Greenland himself, he's pleased that his country's cuisine is emerging on the culinary map. \"It's nice to be a part of the first really high-level gastronomy in Greenland,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is no doubt that a Michelin restaurant in Greenland is sensational,\" said Anne Nivika Grødem, a Greenlandic food expert and blogger, who is also the new CEO of Visit Greenland, the country's government-run marketing organisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003EWhat she finds most interesting is the collaboration across Greenlandic and Faroese food cultures that's taken place between chef Ziska's team and local food experts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19846"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003E\"They [Koks's team] have a natural respect for the traditions that exist, and at the same time they challenge them in a respectful way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003E\"Our local ingredients all have a story to tell. Either you have caught, shot or collected them yourself – or you know the person who has,\" said Grødem.\" [That] means that our food culture is closely linked to our identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003EWhile food tourism is emerging in Greenland, it's happening slowly. \"There is undoubtedly great interest.\" She continued, \"However, eating traditional Greenlandic food primarily takes place in private homes, and it can be difficult for foreign guests to get a bite, so to speak.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003EGroedem believes Koks's impact on the local food scene is a positive one and can inspire further development of Greenlandic gastronomy, and she hopes to see more home-grown talent making their mark. \"There are several local chefs who are brave, experimental and skilled.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis summer's season has now wrapped up, but bookings for 2023 have just \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftable.verk.fo\u002FGistOgVist\u002FKOKS\u002F?culture=en-GB&clearCache=true\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eopened\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Following his gastronomic adventure in Greenland, Ziska then plans to return Koks to a new setting in the Faroe Islands in 2024.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I hope that this restaurant somehow will continue with or without us,\" he said. \"I think what a restaurant like us can do is create some sort of pride in the local cuisine and the local raw material.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0d19b3p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELangoustine roll\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EBy Chef Poul Andrias Ziska\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients for langoustines:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E12 medium-sized langoustines\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g salt brine (4g of salt dissolved in 200g water to make a brine with a 2% ratio)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBlanch the 12 langoustines for 10 seconds and cool down in ice water.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESeparate the tail from the head and peel off the tail from the shell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESave the heads, claws and shells for later use.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EStore six of the langoustines in an airtight container covered with a moist cloth in the fridge.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPlace the other six langoustines in the salt brine for 20 minutes, and then store same way.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients for burnt langoustine oil:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E6 langoustine leftovers (heads, claws and shells)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E900 g neutral-flavoured oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EGlowing hot charcoal\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ERoast the heads, shells and claws from the first six langoustines in the oven at 200C for 15 min.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETransfer the roasted langoustine leftovers to a small (oven-proof) container and cover them with 900g of oil.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECover the container with a lid and cook in the oven at 60C for 12 hours.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EStrain the oil into a pot and put in a glowing piece of charcoal and cover with a lid – be very careful: there may be a lot of smoke!\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave the charcoal to infuse for five minutes, then strain through a fine sieve and store the burnt langoustine oil in the fridge.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients for langoustine emulsion:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E6 langoustine leftovers (head, claws and shells from the other 6 langoustines)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3l water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E30g burnt langoustine oil (from recipe above)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EToss the heads, shells and claws in a little oil and roast in the oven for 20 minutes at 250C.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAdd 1l of water to the tray of langoustine leftovers and bake for another five minutes to deglaze the tray.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETransfer the roasted langoustine leftovers to a mixer with a flat beater attachment and run for two minutes to break the heads, shells and claws into small pieces.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EThen transfer to a pot with the remaining 2l of water and simmer for 2 hours.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EStrain the stock into a new pot and reduce down to a thick, caramel-like texture (approximately 40g) and leave to cool down.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESlowly emulsify the burnt langoustine oil into the reduced langoustine bisque. Slowly combine the burnt langoustine oil into the reduced langoustine bisque while whisking vigorously.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETransfer to a piping bag and store in the fridge until use.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients for crispy rolls: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E(approx 18 rolls)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g leeks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g potato\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E250g milk\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E20g burnt langoustine oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60g isomalt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2g salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2.5g potato starch\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDried dulse powder\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECut the potatoes and leeks into small cubes and transfer to a pot; cover with water and simmer for 30 minutes until completely soft.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EStrain and transfer the cooked potatoes and leeks to a Thermomix together with the rest of the ingredients (except for the dulse powder) and spin at 80C for five minutes at medium speed.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESpread the resulting dough onto a silicone mat at 1mm thickness.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EDry the dough in the oven at 90C with no fan for approximately 30 minutes until the dough has a leathery texture.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave the dried dough to cool for five minutes, then carefully remove it from the silicon mat.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESprinkle both sides with the dried dulse powder and then cut into 7cm x 7cm squares.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EBake 5 squares at a time 130C with no fan until golden brown (approximately 10 minutes).\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EQuickly wrap the baked squares around a 22mm-diameter metal cylinder and leave to cool.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECarefully remove the crispy roll from the metal cylinder and store in an airtight container with a Silicasec tablet (to prevent moisture forming) in a cool dry place.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAssembling the dish:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ELangoustines (from above)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ELangoustine emulsion\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECrispy rolls\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2g finely chopped shallots\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1g finely chopped lovage\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1g lemon zest\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Elemon juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eliquid koji\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ewatercress leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EChervil flowers\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EForget-me-not flowers (\u003Cem\u003EMyosotis scorpioides\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMayflowers (\u003Cem\u003ECrataegus monogyna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDevil's-bit scabious flowers (\u003Cem\u003ESuccisa pratensis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPan-fry the non-brined langoustines, cut them into smaller cubes and transfer into a small container.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECut the brined langoustines into cubes and add to the container with the shallots, lovage and lemon zest, and mix everything well together.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeason with the liquid koji, lemon juice and salt.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EFill the rolls with the langoustine mixture and place them on the plate.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPipe a small line of the burnt langoustine emulsion on top of the roll and decorate with the herbs and flowers\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EBBC.com's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic-30"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-21T10:41:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An epic food journey in the Arctic Circle","headlineShort":"A remote restaurant unreachable by road","image":["p0d1981r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"69.0807149","longitude":"-51.1184361","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0d1981r"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220831-the-arctic-circle-a-new-frontier-for-sustainable-wine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Chef Poul Andrias Ziska of Koks restaurant honed his craft in the harsh North Atlantic but has now reimagined his signature locavore cooking for a Greenlandic terroir.","summaryShort":"It's the world's northernmost Michelin-starred restaurant","tag":["tag\u002Frestaurant","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-20T22:42:35.014586Z","entity":"article","guid":"1cc34669-da2b-465b-bb55-b3389a317bee","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-21T14:10:31.987496Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220920-koks-in-greenland-an-epic-food-journey-in-the-arctic","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreenland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fdenmark","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_denmark_greenland_europe_denmark_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral","_id":"62df7ec443d9f4054968a0f6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"New research is proving that the stained glass at Canterbury Cathedral is among the oldest in the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery year, more than one million visitors step foot into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.canterbury-cathedral.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanterbury Cathedral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in south-east England. Considered one of the oldest and most famous Christian churches in England, the Unesco World Heritage site dates back some 1,400 years, predating the country itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cathedral's role as an important pilgrimage site is inextricably linked to the murder of its most famous archbishop: Thomas Becket. After a long feud, King Henry II is believed to have ordered the murder of Becket in 1170. Shortly afterwards, a series of miracles were said to take place, leading Canterbury to become one of Europe's most famous pilgrimage sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"VIDEO: The mystery of Canterbury Cathedral","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong the church's most famous attractions are its stunning series of stained glass windows. One in particular depicts the gruesome murder of Becket himself. Now, decades after one art historian hypothesised as much, new research has proven that some of the stained glass windows in the cathedral may be among the oldest in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-26T21:48:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The age-old mystery of a UK cathedral","headlineShort":"The age-old mystery of a UK cathedral","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.2798","longitude":"1.0828","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"New research is proving that the stained glass at Canterbury Cathedral is among the oldest in the world.","summaryShort":"A discovery is shedding new light on Canterbury Cathedral","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-25T21:49:26.362867Z","entity":"article","guid":"8a44ed58-446c-4170-b181-cbea0b086e3e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:53.404699Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies","_id":"62df802743d9f4573f554aef","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Egyptians may have the most famous mummies, but they're not the oldest. The Chinchorro people of Chile's Atacama Desert were the first to mummify their dead – 7,000 years ago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Chile's Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth, mummies have been found that pre-date the Egyptians' by 2,000 years. So while the Egyptians may be the most famous culture to mummify their dead, it turns out they weren't the first to do so.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Chinchorro are the very first people that inhabited the north of Chile and the south of Peru,\" said Bernardo Arriaza, a physical anthropologist with the University of Tarapacá. \"They are the pioneers of the Atacama Desert.\" And, he added, they are also the first known culture in the world to mummify their dead, starting around 5,000 BCE.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe remains of hundreds of these marine hunter-gatherers – who lived on the Pacific Coast of the Atacama from approximately 5450 BCE to 890 BCE – have been found in the Arica and Parinacota regions. In 2021, these cemeteries were inscribed on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1634\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage List\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the immense archaeological value they provide. Not only do they reveal the detailed mortuary and funerary practices of the ancient culture, but they offer insight into the community's social and spiritual structures. For instance, mummification was not reserved for the upper class of society (like it was for the Egyptians) but was a ritual for all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Arriaza explained: \"The Chinchorro [culture] is relevant in many aspects: They are the first funerary practitioners, the earliest in this region. And the bodies that we know today as Chinchorro, they are true pre-Hispanic works of art. They are the artistic expressions of the feelings, of the emotions of the ancient populations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut even though Unesco's recognition only came recently, residents of Arica have known about the unique archaeological remains for much longer. That's because the bodies are buried very close to the surface. Indeed, the remains are literally part of the town's foundation. For example, Johnny Vásquez, who has lived in Arica for 60 years, remembered that when workers first dug sewer pipes for his neighbourhood, they found \"layers and layers of mummies\". And in 2004, when workers started to excavate for a hotel, they ran into bones less than 1m underground and instead turned the site into a museum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHundreds of mummies have been uncovered so far, including those of infants and children. As Vivien Standen, a bioarchaeologist at the University of Tarapacá, explained, the soil here contains a lot of naturally occurring arsenic, which likely contributed to a high death rate for the population, as well as a large number of miscarriages. Scientists have also determined that the Chinchurro painted their bodies with manganese for, they think, traditional purposes – but as manganese is toxic, they were also inadvertently damaging their health.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELiving on an ancient necropolis might seem unsettling, but Arica resident Marina Esquieros said no: \"I'm not scared at all. Yes, I have a normal life here at home. I hardly think much that there are dead [bodies].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead, locals see the deceased around them as their ancestors and themselves as their caretakers. \"I feel that we are the continuation of the Chinchorros,\" said Alfredo Guerrero, another Arica resident. \"In the last 10 years, I have felt, and I have told my family [this], that I am not going to leave this place. I will always remain, so I will always be visiting them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJorge Ardiles, a local diving fisherman, agreed. \"They were fishermen just like us, and they were in this place. And after thousands of years, we came to settle here. Then we, as a community of fishermen… we have taken that, let's say, authority, that we consider ourselves as their heirs, and that is why we want to [preserve] the remains they have left, as a great legacy for the current community,\" he said. \"We are the contemporary Chinchorros at this very moment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis video is part of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fthe-truth-of-the-matter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Reel's The Truth of the Matter playlist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-20T10:11:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The ancient mummies older than Egypt's","headlineShort":"A South American town built on the dead","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-18.4723921","longitude":"-70.324253","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Egyptians may have the most famous mummies, but they're not the oldest. The Chinchorro people of Chile's Atacama Desert were the first to mummify their dead – 7,000 years ago.","summaryShort":"The Egyptians may have the most famous mummies, but they weren't the first","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-19T21:12:50.601439Z","entity":"article","guid":"d5893673-1ee5-4bce-b94e-149334b36625","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-23T15:32:51.014498Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","_id":"62df80e643d9f457574077cc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Known as the \"Hebridean Baker\", Coinneach MacLeod is an unlikely TikTok sensation who is bringing the best of the islands' culture to the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many people around the world, Coinneach MacLeod spent much of the past year baking during lockdown. But rather than finding a simple sourdough recipe to pass the time, MacLeod dug deep into the rich history of his homeland on the Isle of Lewis, the most northerly of Scotland's Outer Hebrides islands. Inspired by Hebridean produce and recipes he learned from his ancestors – most notably his 93-year-old aunt, Bellag – MacLeod began uploading videos of his homemade creations to TikTok in 2020 as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@hebrideanbaker\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHebridean Baker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 2.7m likes and 225,000 followers later, the 47-year-old has become one of the least likely celebrities on Gen Z's favourite platform.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it isn't just MacLeod's sumptuous hot toddy choux buns, Heilan' coo cupcakes or haggis bon bons that have made the soft-spoken chef a viral sensation. By serving his food with a side of Hebridean folklore, Scottish Gaelic tongue twisters and traditional music – as well as the occasional cameo by his wee Westie pup, Seòras – Coinneach's goal is to bring the best of Hebridean culture to the world. He's also encouraging his followers to embrace the Hebrides' version of the popularised Danish comfort custom of hygge by encouraging people to forage for local ingredients, cook with loved ones and slow down while embracing simplicity – wherever they may be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-01T20:30:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Scotland's version of 'hygge'","headlineShort":"Scotland's version of 'hygge'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"56.5000","longitude":"-6.0000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the \"Hebridean Baker\", Coinneach MacLeod is an unlikely TikTok sensation who is bringing the best of the islands' culture to the world.","summaryShort":"An unlikely celebrity chef is teaching the world about the Hebrides","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-30T20:30:41.575328Z","entity":"article","guid":"535db73b-9324-44a8-94a4-74e104f65317","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T06:59:57.828928Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland","_id":"6323aae043d9f46f4474707e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchris-griffiths"],"bodyIntro":"Hundreds of these ancient stone structures dot the Scottish Highlands, but the true purpose of brochs continues to baffle experts.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravel north through Scotland's deep glens, its mist and mountains and its velvety moorland and you'll eventually see them: crumbling stone towers rising against the Highland peaks like ancient crag-top castles. These mysterious Iron Age monuments are known as brochs and they exist nowhere else but here. Yet, while these circular dry-walled structures are as symbolic a feature as any in the Scottish Highlands, their purpose remains unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat is known is that around 2,000 years ago, local tribes started harvesting local stone to build massive prehistoric buildings with walls 5m thick and stretching 13m high. To date, anywhere from 100 to 500 broch sites have been identified, with the densest concentration centred in Scotland's northern Caithness and Sutherland counties, as well as the Northern Isles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoUrn":["p0cpl9nf"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile early archaeologists thought that brochs (whose name derives from the Lowland Scottish word for \"fort\") were the citadels of local chieftains, more recent excavations suggest that the structures were more likely used for residential rather than defensive purposes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, in an effort to better understand the true purpose of these prehistoric towers, an ambitious initiative called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebrochproject.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaithness Broch Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is aiming to reconstruct a full-scale broch from scratch using traditional methods. By relying on archaeological evidence from broch sites and incorporating the same dry-stone masonry techniques Iron Age tribes would have used, builders are aiming to understand whether the organisation of Iron Age Highland societies revolved around brochs or whether brochs evolved to fit the shifting needs of Highland societies. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat's more, by creating a modern attraction modelled on a historical blueprint, architects are hoping that visitors will gain a newfound appreciation for these iconic buildings that have long shaped the Scottish landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis video is part of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fancient-mysteries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Reel's Ancient Mysteries playlist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland-2"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ftravel-videos","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-16T10:41:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Brochs: The mysterious circular symbols of Scotland","headlineShort":"Britain's mysterious circular towers","image":["p0d0dkr8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"58.4389","longitude":"3.0937","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0d0dkr8"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211125-the-age-old-mystery-of-a-uk-cathedral","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220519-chiles-desert-town-built-on-mummies","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hundreds of these ancient stone structures dot the Scottish Highlands, but the true purpose of brochs continues to baffle experts.","summaryShort":"They exist nowhere else on Earth outside Scotland","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology","tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fheritage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-15T22:44:31.088807Z","entity":"article","guid":"19f69302-f4c3-4064-9dc1-a2931d162dce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-16T17:38:38.379261Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220915-brochs-the-mysterious-circular-symbols-of-scotland","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fscotland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_scotland_europe_great-britain","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762249},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"62df7fa843d9f46d947e0217","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220924083922\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","_id":"62df7f0143d9f45749671c5d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to know just how attached the people of the coastal town of Menton are to their beloved lemon, look no further than the legend that credits its arrival on the French Riviera to Eve. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExpelled from the garden of Eden, the story goes, Eve plucked a lemon to take with her on the journey. Adam, fearing eternal condemnation, begged her to throw it away, which she obliged to do only in a spot of her choosing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd thus, she found Menton, situated on the gleaming Bay of Garavan where the Alps rescind from the water just enough to create slopes with an east-west alignment – the perfect conditions for cultivating lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the legend itself is impossible to authenticate, the symbolism of the paradisiacal lemon is embedded in the folklore of this seaside town of about 30,000 inhabitants, where the bus line is called \"Zeste\" and a lemon motif seems the logical choice for many local businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town swells to nearly double its size during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fete-du-citron.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFête du Citron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival held in February celebrating the history and culture of citrus growing in the region, most notably of the Menton lemon, an officially recognised species that differs from Corsican, Spanish or Italian varieties in terms of its mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe allure of the festival lies in its floats and sculptures, each with more than three tonnes of lemons and oranges rubber-banded to a wire framework shaped to match the year's theme. The Fête du Citron stands apart from other Carnival events in France in that municipal workers who spend most of the year maintaining city buildings are also the ones who prepare the floats and sculptures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETitled Operas and Dances, the 2022 edition marked a triumphant return for the festival after it was cancelled midway through in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. The Sunday parade was a jubilee of blaring marching bands, vibrant performers and six floats covered in lemons and oranges, some as tall as 10m, sculpted to represent the Samba, Can-can, Haka, Matachines, Salsa and Kathakali dance styles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs French cuisine forever changed?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the floats, performers in costume worked alongside smiling city employees in neon-green safety vests to shower a seemingly infinite amount of confetti on the 15,000 spectators, whose outstretched arms made it clear they couldn't get enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the party raged on in the valley, the terraced hillsides overlooking the town harboured a harsher reality: Menton was once the leading lemon-growing region in all of Europe, but today, only about 15 producers remain. All the fruit for the Fête du Citron's sculptures and floats must be imported from Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The annual production of Menton lemons is between 100 and 120 tonnes. In this period, we need between 150 and 180 tonnes of lemons and oranges. So, the production of Menton lemons wouldn't be enough to create the whole of the Fête du Citron,\" said Christophe Ghiena, the city's director of technical services, who added that the remaining citrus is sold at discounted prices after the festival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from its Biblical legend, the documented story of the Menton lemon's rise and fall began with its arrival from Spain in the 15th Century. The fruit quickly adapted to Menton's temperate microclimate created by the unique combination of a protective mountain range and proximity to the ocean. By the end of the 18th Century, the region was estimated to produce one million lemons annually, said David Rousseau, director of Menton's heritage department.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, the lemon was really the fortune of the city of Menton. Lemons were exported all the way to the United States, to Russia. It was a production of global scale,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a production of global scale","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon's decline began at the end of the French Revolution, when laws that had protected it against competition from other lemon-producing regions were lifted. The second blow came in the 19th Century, when the arrival of British winter tourists prompted the construction of hotels and villas on land used for citrus terraces. Finally, in the 1950s, an unusual cold snap spelled the Menton lemon's demise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was a big freeze in Menton and in France, which killed the remaining lemon trees,\" Rousseau said. \"It was in the 1980s that the lemon began to come back thanks to several producers who saw the lemon had potential and relaunched its production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such grower is Laurent Gannac. Originally from the southwest of France, Gannac arrived in Menton in 1988 to work as a landscaper. He said that every time he brought lemon trees to clients in the area, he'd get the same question: Is this a \u003Cem\u003EMenton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lemon?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had scientific, agricultural training and I'd never even heard of a Menton lemon,\" he said. \"So, I'd say to them 'Well, I brought it from Menton so I guess it's a Menton lemon if you want.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe soon became curious about the species and, in 1991, he planted his first Menton lemon tree. At the time, the few remaining producers questioned why a young person would be interested in a seemingly bygone product, Gannac said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gannac and his son own 750 trees on 2.5 hectares of land with the goal of reaching 1,000 trees in the next three years. Although his operation pales in comparison to the output of producers in Spain or Italy, Gannac is proud to call himself the first person in recent years to live entirely off the Menton lemon. Yet, he is one of very few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To plant 400 trees here means to start with a site that's completely abandoned, clear it, level the terraces, create irrigation reservoirs and fence it to protect from wild boars,\" he said. \"It's a lot of work, especially when you consider it takes eight years to recoup the investment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, Gannac says he believes the tide is changing, thanks in large part to an effort by local officials, growers and other stakeholders to achieve the European Union's Protected Geographical Indication for the Menton lemon, which it received in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he had been cultivating the Menton lemon for nearly two decades at the time, it was during this process that Gannac was confronted with the uniqueness of the species during a visit to France's National Institute for Agricultural Research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always thought the Mentonnais were a little biased about their lemon,\" he said. \"When I had the chance to go from tree to tree and taste each lemon, I realised that the real Menton lemon is actually different from others in its scent, sweetness and peel that is so mild it can be eaten.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon has also been praised for its thick skin and high essential oil content which makes it a favourite of well-known chefs like Mauro Colagreco at the helm of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirazur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMirazur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Menton restaurant ranked number one in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-awards\u002F2019\u002F6\u002F25\u002F18714984\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's 50 Best in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Menton lemon is a very rare product. It has a different flavour and texture from the lemons you find elsewhere and can even be eaten directly from the tree (as a fruit). In our five gardens, we want to keep this exceptional variety. Each year we plant new trees to perpetuate the culture,\" Colagreco said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen in season, the chef uses the fruit in dishes like a Menton lemon tart or a \u003Cem\u003Etourbillon \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(swirl) of fish larvae with Menton lemon and chives. He also produces a lemon confit to \"remember the flavour all year long\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EColagreco is not the only chef who has become an ambassador of the species. Luisa Delpiano-Inversi is the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pastapiemonte.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Piemonte\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Menton-based pasta producer that opened in 2013. Shortly thereafter, Delpiano-Inversi found success with her Menton lemon ravioli, an unexpected combination that she now ships across France for those who live far from the Riviera to experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This lemon resembles no other,\" she wrote in her 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.apple.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the topic. \"Its juice is intensely fragrant with a semi-acidic flavour and no bitterness.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGannac said he remembers a time when the Menton lemon was little more than a pretext used to draw in tourists during the Fête du Citron, which began in 1934. As French consumers become increasingly interested in local products, Gannac now credits the Fête with giving him an opportunity to meet his customers and speak about the uniqueness of his fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERousseau agrees that the recent editions of the Fête du Citron have helped bring more awareness to the Menton lemon. Many of this year's guided tours of lemon terraces were sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before. Before they came mostly to see the sculptures and attend the parade,\" he said. \"Today, they really wish to discover the city and not just come to see the floats.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the most promising result of the local effort to revitalise the species can be found in the enthusiasm of the next generation of lemon growers, among them Laetita Sepicacchi, a Menton native who began cultivating her family's property in 2015 in collaboration with the city's initiative to plant more trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, Sepicacchi was working in Paris and often travelled home to Menton to rest and recharge. It was during one of these visits that she realised the terraces of the former vineyard were the perfect place to continue the tradition of lemon cultivation. While she waits for her 35 young trees to reach maturity, Sepicacchi harvests about 100kg of fruit per year from three older trees. She sells her lemons to individuals and French and European grocers, although some of her clients have also been reputable perfume producers interested in the essential oils of her lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project allows me to rediscover and transmit a cultural heritage,\" she said. \"It's as if the roots of the trees are grounded in a heritage and an identity at a time when the world is steeped in virtual culture, which can sometimes be materialistic and individualistic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sepicacchi reflects on her ultimate goal to cultivate the Menton lemon, she imagines a day when lemon trees can once again define the local landscape and support the town's economy, maybe even resembling the French poet Stéphen Liégeard's 1887 description: \"little valleys that leave to the breeze the care to shake passers-by, the heady smell of lemon trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-29T14:20:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of France's lost lemon","headlineShort":"How a French town lost its lemons","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7960375","longitude":"7.4636967","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","summaryShort":"Sadly, all its fruit must be imported from Spain","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T14:22:42.099931Z","entity":"article","guid":"abb3da5b-bea2-4a48-b080-e9b5e8891c25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:41:49.702209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","_id":"62df806843d9f46d3d1a2510","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt began before the pandemic: an exodus of chefs abandoning Paris for the French countryside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJames Henry's 2017 departure was perhaps the most publicised. The Australian chef, who first skyrocketed to fame at small-plates trendsetters \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-aupassage.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAu Passage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the former Bones, left the Parisian cityscape to work alongside chef Shaun Kelly (ex-Au Passage) on a passion project: opening a restaurant and inn in the small town of Saint-Vrain 30km south of Paris. The result – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fle_doyennerestaurant_\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Doyenné\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – is set to debut later this year. And, as the pair plant their orchard and renovate the 19th-Century greenhouse and stables, they've also been supplying some of Paris' top restaurants with produce from their three-acre vegetable garden. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Henry and Kelly are far from the only chefs to step out of Paris in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think it started before Covid, but it was discreet,\" said Daniela Lavadenz, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lesaintsebastien.paris\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Saint-Sébastien\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Paris' trendy 11th arrondissement. \"There was already an explosion of people buying country homes before Covid. But everything was multiplied with the pandemic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo wit: chef Sven Chartier of the former Michelin-starred Saturne left the capital in late 2020 for the countryside of the Perche region, 150km west of Paris; his new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodsection.com\u002Ffoodsection\u002F2010\u002F09\u002Fn%C3%A9o-bistrot.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enéo-bistrot\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oiseau-oiseau.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOiseau Oiseau\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in October 2021 boasting a menu brimming with local produce. In 2018, former jewellery shop owner Mickaëlle Chabat and her husband, chef Louis-Philippe Riel (ex-Le 6 Paul Bert), ventured even further afield to the Italian border for a new home by the slopes. They found the house that would become their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laubergedelaroche.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAuberge de la Roche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the town of Valdeblore (whose Alpine ski resort La Colmiane boasts the longest zip line in France) and launched the project in collaboration with chef Alexis Bijaoui, formerly of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.garance-saintdominique.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We fell in love with the view,\" said Chabat. \"It's almost like being in the middle of nowhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe preponderance of chefs abandoning the capital in favour of greener pastures is, in part, a reflection of an ever-growing interest in locavorism. Despite a few anomalies – such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Farticles\u002Fparis-catacomb-mushrooms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emushrooms grown in the Catacombs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191204-paris-hidden-vineyards#:~:text=While%20it%20may%20seem%20like,the%20city's%20most%20celebrated%20parks.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewine produced in a handful of public parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – Paris has long been known for transforming ingredients, rather than producing them. But in recent decades, many Parisian chefs had been paying considerably less attention to where those ingredients were coming from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFarmers' markets selling local produce are thin on the ground in Paris, with most of the city's \u003Cem\u003Emarchés \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eactually peddling produce from Spain, Italy and Portugal by way of wholesalers. The central Les Halles market, a mainstay of Paris since the Middle Ages, relocated to the outlying city of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rungisinternational.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERungis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (near Orly Airport) in 1969 and today occupies 4.2 sq km and boasts the largest turnover of any wholesale market around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFred Pouillot, the owner of Parisian cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lefoodist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Foodist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, draws attention to this discrepancy on tours of local markets with his American clients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I ask them, only looking at the produce, 'what is the difference between what you see here and an open-air market back home?',\" he said. \"And then I lead them on until the 'clue' is given – bananas! We don't grow bananas around Paris! Or mangoes, or melons or anything you see here for that matter. In America, an open-air market is a normally a farmers' market. This is not a farmers' market – this is a traders' market.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile this disconnect may seem surprising, especially given France's celebrated link to its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2013\u002F09\u002F01\u002Fsunday-review\u002Fvive-le-terroir.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eterroir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to French culinary journalist Emmanuel Rubin, it's merely the final step in a long and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F09639489.2019.1676218\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecomplex devolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The rapid economic development France underwent in the 1950s and '60s – a period known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheculturetrip.com\u002Feurope\u002Ffrance\u002Farticles\u002Fwhy-frances-trente-glorieuses-are-so-important-to-the-nation-today\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrente Glorieuses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – had, Rubin asserts, a lasting effect on the country's cities, notably with regards to the arrival of supermarkets on the outskirts of town centres that negatively impacted the availability of small shops within. This, Rubin said, \"modified French and urban dining habits in a lasting way\", radiating from the home into the restaurant industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps even more essential to Paris' disconnect with the local landscape is its style of cooking. The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal (as opposed to the ingredient-driven mindset that governs, for instance, Italian cuisine) made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone. Additionally, restaurants serving mass-produced meals in France became so prevalent that in 2014, the government approved a label to affirm that the dishes being served \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-france-homemade\u002Ffrance-forces-labels-on-restaurants-to-save-homemade-cuisine-idUSKBN0FK1WX20140715\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewere actually being made in-house\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf late, however, as part of a growing resistance against industrialised food, many of Paris' top chefs have started reducing their reliance on Rungis – where, Lavadenz asserts, vegetables are \"calibrated and covered in plastic or cardboard\" – in favour of partnerships with sustainable cooperatives and networks like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.terroirs-avenir.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerroirs d'Avenir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.agrofile.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgrof'ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftomsaveurs.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETom Saveurs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But for some chefs, venturing into the countryside themselves is a logical next step – something, Lavadenz posits, \"makes the job more interesting\" for these culinary professionals, who now have a hand, not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoïc Martin and Édouard Bergeon have been growing much of their own produce for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurantmartinparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wine bar and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frobert-restaurant.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant – both in Paris' 11th arrondissement – for seven years, ever since Martin bought land on the banks of the Loire River, almost on a whim. The plot of countryside has since become the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Flejardinsurloire\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJardin-sur-Loire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"At the beginning, it was just to feed the restaurants in Paris,\" said Martin. But in 2021, the pair expanded their portfolio to include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLesterrassesdelile\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELes Terrasses de l'Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a nearby \u003Cem\u003Eguinguette\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (country restaurant), complete with a tiny house perfect for hosting visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBertrand Grébaut houses Parisians in slightly more luxe fashion at his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.duneile.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ED'Une Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a B&B and \u003Cem\u003Etable d'hôte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fixed menu restaurant) in the same Perche region that also tempted Chartier from the capital. The Michelin-starred chef of the infamously impossible-to-book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.septime-charonne.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeptime\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris' 11th arrondissement said he wasn't necessarily looking to create a new venture outside Paris when, in 2017, he and his business partner, Théo Pourriat, started to think about new projects to add to their portfolio. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was pretty vast, at that point,\" he recalled of the breadth of ideas he and Pourriat were considering. \"But at the end of the day, we were attracted by the idea of finding a pretext to be closer to nature. To put our feet somewhere green.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce he'd visited the B&B, the choice was made in an instant. \"It's hard to not fall in love at first sight when you get to D'Une Ile,\" said Grébaut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe irresistibly charming estate is comprised of a small grouping of 17th-Century stone buildings in the heart of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.normandie-tourisme.fr\u002Fdiscover\u002Fheritage-and-architecture\u002Fregional-nature-reserves\u002Fthe-perche-regional-nature-reserve\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Perche Regional Nature Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Light stone and dark wood create a peaceful, rural and rustic environment with food to match.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter,\" recalled Grébaut, \"because we were growing our own radishes, because we were making butter in-house, and because when we serve the radish, it was harvested two hours ago and it's never seen the fridge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETapping into local terroir is at the heart of the project at Auberge de la Roche, as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The idea was to create a space that was really rooted in its environment,\" said Chabat of her mountain oasis, whose kitchen relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius, meaning that the menu is often left to the whims of Mother Nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When there's a storm, we've got no fish,\" she said, implying how they often need to make adjustments on the fly. However, the restaurant's team has built a network of local producers, such as Sandrine Giraud, who cultivates her own heirloom grains; and Lawry Calendra, who produces pork that Chabat describes as \"totally insane\". And with chefs Riel and Bijaoui in the kitchen, Auberge de la Roche is on par with any fine dining restaurant you'd find in the French capital – with a price tag to match. A room at Auberge de la Roche clocks in at €350, and the seven-course prix fixe menu costs €90.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut even at D'Une Ile, where rooms are priced at €85 a night and dinner costs €39 for a rustic three-course menu, \"locals think we're really full of it, with a radish-and-butter dish at €5.50,\" Grébaut said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis reflects an innate friction that often surfaces when Parisians abscond to the countryside, with their affinity for curated rusticity. Locals who arrive at D'Une Ile, according to Grébaut, baulk not just at the \"Parisian\" prices but at the \"mismatched, flea market chairs\" and simplicity of the food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were kind of disappointed that this was the restaurant that the Michelin-starred Parisian chef who just showed up in the Perche decided to open,\" he said, noting nevertheless that the simple approach to home-grown, quality ingredients, is \"our idea of luxury\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin noticed a similar disconnect upon opening Les Terrasses de l'Ile last year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We closed again quite quickly,\" he said, explaining that in addition to challenges linked to the re-emergence from lockdown, he found that many locals were suspicious of his arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a France that is feeling a bit forgotten,\" he said, noting that a group of Parisians taking over the restaurant that had, for 25 years, served a buffet beloved by regulars meant that \"there were loads of things locals didn't like\" about the new approach, which was perhaps better suited to Paris than to the French provinces\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was awful for the team,\" Martin said, \"so it was better to shut down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt probably doesn't help that with these new arrivals comes an uptick in housing prices. At just more than an hour from the French capital, the bucolic Perche in particular is now home to a host of ex- or part-time Parisians. Local cocktail expert Forest Collins can attest to the expensive result of having such high-profile neighbours, noting that in her hamlet, somewhere between a quarter and a third of houses have become weekend homes for city-dwellers and that local \u003Cem\u003Ebrocantes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(flea markets) have considerably hiked their prices as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin has since switched gears at Les Terrasses de l'Ile, which reopened this spring with a simplified menu that better caters to the local population. Egg mayonnaise, house-made terrine, mussels and French fries, or sausage with mashed potatoes are all made with 90% local ingredients and served at prices in-line with other offerings in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We took a step back,\" he said. \"It was the right idea. The right choice.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEdward Delling-Williams, owner of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.legrandbainparis.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grand Bain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, made a similar choice with his new venture in Normandy. Like many others, Delling-Williams had been itching to leave the city before finally taking the plunge during the pandemic, happening upon Heugueville and falling immediately in love with the north-western coastal village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was springtime, and it was unbelievable,\" he said. \"There was wild garlic everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthe_presbytere\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Presbytère\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this spring in a former vicarage just steps from the beach. Bit by bit, it will be fuelled by more produce grown on his land, which the previous owner spent 12 years renovating \"almost exactly how we would have done it\", Delling-Williams said. \"He's planted 6,000 trees. He's made safe spaces for animals. There's solar power. It's really unbelievable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the British chef, who also implemented a local mindset at Le Grand Bain, the move was a logical next step, a break from the monotony that had come to small plate-focused, natural wine-driven, contemporary Parisian restaurants – including his own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything is going to be local, so why not cater to the local population?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That style of food is now just everywhere,\" he said. \"If I brought you four dishes from four different restaurants, Le Grand Bain included, you wouldn't be able to pick which restaurant made which dish. And that seems a bit boring, now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt The Presbytère, Delling-Williams instead serves a combination of accessible French bistro fare (like house-made pâté or skate wing in butter sauce) as well as the food typical of the English pub he was raised in, including a Sunday roast. And the prices match the locale: around €18 euros for lunch, €30 for dinner. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everything is going to be local,\" he said, pointing to the sea purslane and sea aster growing wild around the restaurant. \"So why not cater to the local population?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If the Parisians want to come,\" he added, \"they can come.\" But he's doing nothing to overtly attract them. His focus is less on becoming an innkeeper than a brewer, a baker, and, above all, a producer of his own ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm pretty sure that if you talk to any chef, they're going to come up with the same sort of reason: having control over the produce,\" he said of his motivations. But then he prevaricated: \"Maybe I'm just becoming an old man and I want to be in the countryside. I think that's probably it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAge aside (the father of three is just 36 years old), others may soon follow suit. Martin, notably, thinks that he, too, will eventually make his part-time move to the Loire more permanent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that, in time, we might be happier raising animals and making our products there,\" he mused, \"rather than being in Paris five days a week.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe French capital's love of local is certainly on the rise, with restaurateurs realising that tapping into the richness of the surrounding countryside has become an expectation rather than an exception for many Parisian diners. But watching Delling-Williams traipse across his land with young sons in tow, inviting them to smell fresh spring garlic and pull radishes from the soil, it's perhaps no wonder that he's not the only chef with greener pastures on the mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-15T13:25:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The exodus of Paris' chefs to the countryside","headlineShort":"Why top chefs are leaving Paris","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3585593","longitude":"0.6257567","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","summaryShort":"\"It started before Covid, but it was discreet\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-14T21:31:35.607105Z","entity":"article","guid":"103d52fc-de3d-4a88-9edb-9a62fca14e6c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-15T14:21:36.27426Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","_id":"62df818043d9f46da00974b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The recipe for Macarons des Sœurs is only passed on orally to the succeeding pâtissier, who is the only one who makes the macaron, \"alone and away from prying eyes\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Lorraine, in the north-east of France, the small city of Nancy slumbered on the bank of the river Meurthe. Before the city awakened, a fog crept off the water and settled over the streets. The occasional roar of a scooter interrupted the silence, and two people sat on the steps of the famous Place Stanislas. But otherwise, the boulevards and squares were still.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seemed hard to believe that anyone could be working, but a stone's throw from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nancy-tourisme.fr\u002Fen\u002Foffers\u002Fhotel-de-ville-de-nancy-nancy-en-2037186\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHôtel de Ville\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pâtissier Nicolas Genot toiled alone and unobserved to produce the veritable Macarons des S&oelig;urs, using a recipe unchanged for more than two centuries that he alone holds in his head.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELater, as the frantic rush to offices and classrooms was underway, the fruits of his labour were displayed in the large glass window of his pâtisserie, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They sat alongside other local specialities such as the little jars of syrup-soaked \u003Cem\u003Ebaba au rhum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E cakes and cellophane bags of bright \u003Cem\u003EBergamotes de Nancy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E candies, but it's the macarons that are the reason for his shop's fame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They are essentially the top half of their more famous counterpart.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike the better-known, pastel-coloured \"Paris\" macaron, which comes in a variety of shapes, colours and flavours, the Macarons des S&oelig;urs have no ganache, are a uniform pale brown, are finely cracked on top and taste like toasted almonds. They are essentially the top half of their more famous counterpart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEating them is an exercise in history; the recipe has never changed in the 230 years since their invention, and it has only ever been passed to the succeeding pâtissier of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The recipe and the secret are passed on orally, they've never been written down, and, in the contract with the new pâtissier, both sides swear to never teach the making to anybody else,\" explained Genot. \"The owner of the pâtisserie is the only one who makes the macaron, alone and away from prying eyes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe kitchens of monasteries and abbeys across Europe have been responsible for the invention of more than a few popular pastries and desserts, including the famous Portuguese egg tart, the \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpasteisdebelem.pt\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epastel de nata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and the rum and vanilla flavoured \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fus.france.fr\u002Fen\u002Fbordeaux\u002Flist\u002Fbest-canneles-bordeaux\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecannelé\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Bordeaux, to give just two examples. This baking ingenuity grew out of the reliance on the sale of products to raise money for the upkeep of their religious orders, as well as simply having the time and opportunity to experiment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilarly, the original Macarons des S&oelig;urs were created by two 18th Century nuns, Marguerite Gaillot and Marie Morlot, who lived in an abbey in the heart of Nancy. It's possible one of the nuns brought some form of the recipe with them upon joining the sisterhood and then perfected it. In 1792, a decree abolishing religious congregations led to their expulsion from the abbey. The nuns fled and took refuge with a local doctor, supporting themselves by making and selling their macarons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, the Macarons des S&oelig;urs have been sold in the city without interruption. When Marguerite died, Marie passed the secret to her niece and the business remained in the family for another three generations. The business was passed to the Aptel family in 1935 and the premises moved from the site of the original pâtisserie to the location it occupies today. Jean-Marie Genot purchased the business in 1991 before passing it, and the secret of the macaron, to his son Nicolas in 2000.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe lasting success of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a testament to the recipe and the skill and quality of its production. \"We always use the same, top-quality ingredients – for example, we refuse to buy almonds produced anywhere outside Provence and we're investing in the production of almond trees to sustain our needs,\" said Genot. \"Our customers know this and come to us for this unique taste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Macarons des Sœurs are a unique type of macaron","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while the Macarons des S&oelig;urs are a unique type of macaron, the treat potentially existed many centuries before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"macaronic\" describes the mixing of different languages in speech, prose and poetry. The term is thought to have originated in 15th Century Italy, stemming from the word \u003Cem\u003Emaccarona\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a kind of stodgy dumpling, which is the provenance of the French word \u003Cem\u003Emacaron. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EWith a bit of artistic license, macaronic is the perfect word to describe the mixed origins of the macaron itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA widely held belief is that Catherine de' Medici introduced the macaron to the tables of the royal court of France in the 16th Century, although food historian Marie Josèphe Moncorgé disputes this. \"This is just a legend,\" she said. \"In general, pastries with almonds are often of Arabic origin, they then moved on to Catalonia and Italy before arriving organically in France.\" Given the Italian origin of the word and the existence of recipes describing a macaron-like pastry brought to Sicily by Arab soldiers before the 13th Century, this seems likely. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrancois Rabelais' satirical work, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FGargantua-and-Pantagruel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGargantua and Pantagruel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is credited with introducing several new words to the French language. It's also thought to be the first recorded mention of the macaron as a dessert, so we can be sure that it had made its way to France by the middle of the 16th Century. But it's unlikely that the definite story of its origin will ever be known; as food historian Dr Annie Gray said: \"There's rarely a definitive answer, only ever a gradual development.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, what we do know for sure is that nearly 140 years after the two nuns started selling the sweet treat in Nancy, the macaron was transformed. In 1930, Pierre Desfontaines, a Parisian pâtissier, took two traditional macarons and sandwiched them together using ganache, creating the famous \"Paris\" macaron that can now be found all over the world, everywhere from the finest pâtisseries to McDonald's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite being overtaken in popularity by its successor, the legacy of the Macaron des S&oelig;urs can still be seen in Nancy. Walk to the quartier Charles III and you can visit the Rue des S&oelig;urs Macarons, named in honour of the site of the sisters' original bakery; or wait by the gilded gates of Place Stanislas and watch passers-by clutching the white and gold boxes from the Maison des S&oelig;urs Macarons. Its wider significance as a progenitor to the delicacy recognisable the world over as something quintessentially French is keenly felt by Genot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course, it's a big responsibility,\" he observed. \"My mission, like that of my predecessors and my successors, is to respect, protect and value this tradition and this unique recipe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place's heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-17T10:52:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The true origin of French macarons","headlineShort":"The French macaron shrouded in secrecy","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.6924329","longitude":"6.1793434","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The recipe for Macarons des Sœurs is only passed on orally to the succeeding pâtissier, who is the only one who makes the macaron, \"alone and away from prying eyes\".","summaryShort":"The recipe hasn't changed since its invention 230 years ago","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-16T22:53:05.860036Z","entity":"article","guid":"af1d26c6-3464-46c0-8aa5-a03c91ac111e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-17T02:12:22.111234Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard","_id":"62fc271c43d9f46da86e5a36","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco"],"bodyIntro":"France is facing a widespread dearth of Dijon mustard, which news outlets wasted no time in attributing to the war in Ukraine. But the story is a whole lot spicier than that.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETake a wander down any condiment aisle in France these days, and you'll notice a pervasive absence between \u003Cem\u003Ela mayo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Ele ketchup\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Since this May, France has faced a widespread dearth of Dijon mustard, leading \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.francebleu.fr\u002Finfos\u002Finsolite\u002Fil-met-en-vente-ses-pots-de-moutarde-a-6-000-euros-1659363401\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone French resident\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to advertise two jars for sale to the tune of €6,000 or about £5,000 (since revealed to be merely in jest). The shortage has incited expats (this author included) to not-at-all-jokingly smuggle squeeze bottles of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaille.com\u002Ffr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaille\u003C\u002Fa\u003E back into the country from places like the US to get their fix, while author and Paris resident \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdavidlebovitz.substack.com\u002Fp\u002Fthe-french-mustard-shortage\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDavid Lebovitz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E even resorted to hunting his jars down at a local gardening store, of all places.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile French news outlets wasted no time in attributing the shortage to the war in Ukraine, the real story is a whole lot spicier than that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOmnipresent on French tables, Dijon mustard, made by combining brown mustard seeds with white wine, is a beloved condiment that provides a counterpoint to rich, hearty dishes thanks to its acidity and heat. It's the perfect accompaniment to a slice of crisp-skinned roast chicken, the ideal way to jazz up a simple ham-and-butter sandwich and an essential ingredient in homemade mayonnaise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat the condiment is so anchored in France's Burgundy region – of which Dijon is the capital city – is thanks to the historical co-planting of brown mustard seeds with the region's renowned grapevines, a practice introduced by the Ancient Romans to provide the vines with essential nutrients like phosphorous. Monks continued to cultivate mustard in this fashion for centuries, and, in 1752, the link between Dijon and mustard was cemented thanks to Dijon local Jean Naigeon, who married the seeds, not with vinegar, but with verjuice – the juice of unripe wine grapes historically used to add a pleasantly sour flavour to recipes in regions inhospitable to citrus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDijon mustard stands out from other mustards on the market for its subtle, balanced flavour. Packing more heat than American yellow mustard but less than powerful Chinese mustard or Bavarian \u003Cem\u003Esenf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, it capitalises on the pungency of the mustard seed by marrying it with the pleasant acidity of local Burgundian verjuice or, in most contemporary iterations, white wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the truth is that despite its historical link the to the region, Dijon mustard has been delocalised for quite some time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ct91cw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter Burgundian farmers largely abandoned mustard cultivation in favour of higher-paying crops decades ago, \u003Cem\u003Emoutardiers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mustard makers) began looking further afield for the tiny seed at the root of the condiment that launched 1,000 \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=IN5EZwanClY\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPardon me, sir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=5xomArI4aJ0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejokes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Their mustard seed needs were chiefly met by Canada, which produces about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww1.agric.gov.ab.ca\u002F$department\u002Fdeptdocs.nsf\u002Fall\u002Fagdex12947\u002F$file\u002F143_20-1.pdf?OpenElement\"\u003E80% \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eof the world's supply. But this winter, Canadian-grown mustard also dried up, when, after several years of declining production had reduced stores, dry summer weather obliterated the Canadian crop, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bfmtv.com\u002Feconomie\u002Fconsommation\u002Ffaut-il-craindre-une-penurie-de-moutarde_AN-202112090014.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esending mustard seed prices skyrocketing threefold\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the shortage was not caused by the Russian invasion of Ukraine, it was exacerbated by it, impacting Dijon mustard makers \"indirectly\", according to Luc Vandermaesen, CEO of mustard producer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Freinededijon.fr\u002Fen\u002Fwelcome\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReine de Dijon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Rather than the brown seeds required for Dijon, Ukraine predominantly produces the white variety used in yellow and English mustard. Given the conflict, producers less tied to specific mustard varieties turned to Canada's already meagre supply, intensifying the shortage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInadvertently, this all shed new light on the discrepancy between the name \"Dijon mustard\" and where it's made. After all, unlike Champagne or Roquefort, the \"Dijon\" in Dijon mustard refers to a specific recipe and not to a geographic region protected by an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) or Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) designation, which regulate products like wine, cheese and even lentils with an iron fist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are no rules keeping the production of Dijon mustard in [the city of] Dijon,\" said Sophie Mauriange of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.inao.gouv.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstitut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (INAO), the governing board that controls the AOC and AOP labels in France. \"You can make it anywhere in the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ctd8k3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd they do. Grey-Poupon, created in Dijon by Maurice Grey and Auguste Poupon in 1866 (and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vox.com\u002Fvideos\u002F2016\u002F10\u002F12\u002F13250360\u002Fgrey-poupon-in-hip-hop\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe preferred mustard of American hip-hop artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), has been made in the US since the 1940s. And in 2009, nine years after its purchase by Unilever, France's biggest Dijon producer, Amora-Maille (which makes Maille mustard), closed its Dijon factory, moving production to the nearby commune of Chevigny-Saint-Sauveur. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far as we know,\" said Mauriange, \"there is almost no production of mustard in Dijon itself, save a very small amount at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fallot.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E[La Moutarderie] Fallot's Dijon shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\" (The artisanal producer has long made the bulk of its mustard at its factory in the nearby town of Beaune, where it was founded in 1840, and only opened its Dijon boutique, complete with a small, on-site workshop, in 2014.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe truth is that while Dijon is in the mustard's name, the product is – and always has been – rooted in the city's surrounding countryside, where mustard production flourished in the decades that followed the condiment's 1752 invention. Charcoal producers would sow mustard seeds in fields filled with coal residue, a natural fertiliser, and the resulting seeds, explained Marc Désarménien, CEO and third generation head of La Moutarderie Fallot, were sold to master moutardiers in Dijon or Beaune.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They had organised into a cooperative, at the time,\" Désarménen said of the local master moutardiers, of which there were already 33 in the early 19th Century. \"So, there was what I would call a fairly powerful, fairly strong mustard industry.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ct91km"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe decline of truly local mustard nevertheless began nearly a century ago: when Désarménien's grandfather purchased Fallot in 1928, he relied on \"French mustard seeds, but not only\", said Désarménien. \"He needed to source seeds in other French regions and in other European countries in order to have a stable, high-quality product.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War Two, Burgundian farmers turned their back on the little mustard seed in favour of producing other crops, notably rapeseed for cooking oil and animal feed, which garnered them better pay thanks to government subsidies. By the 1980s, Mauriange said, \"almost all mustard production was made with seeds imported from Canada.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.apgmb.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAssociation des Producteurs de Graines de Moutarde\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an association of mustard growers founded in 1997, couldn't have existed even a decade earlier, when low demand for local seeds meant that production of Burgundian mustard had, according to its head Laure Ohleyer, \"practically disappeared\". But Burgundian mustard seeds began to experience a quiet renaissance in the '90s, thanks in large part to Unilever.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They wanted to re-localise production,\" Ohleyer said of Amora-Maille's parent company. \"And that's how it all began.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, thanks to demand from mustard producers, Burgundian farmers grew some 5,000 tons of mustard seeds annually – a portion of which have had an even more illustrious destiny than simple Dijon mustard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ct90cd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs French producers of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180618-the-end-to-a-french-cheese-tradition\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamembert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E learned in the '80s, it's nearly impossible to protect a product's geographic origin retroactively. But in the early 2000s, some mustard producers sought to take better advantage of the newly blossoming mustard seed industry and rekindle the notion of tying it to the local terroir. In 2009, they established an Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP) – a protected label similar to the AOP, but with fewer constraints. And while Dijon certainly gets more name recognition, it is this IGP – called Moutarde de Bourgogne – that actually means something: that the mustard is made in the Burgundy region with Burgundian seeds and Burgundian wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe IGP endeavour was spearheaded in large part by La Moutarderie Fallot's Désarménien, who Mauriange cited as \"the most active in the request for recognition of the IGP\". Indeed, of the five large mustard producers sourcing their mustard seeds from the mustard growers' association, Fallot is the only one that is making the entirety of its mustard within the IGP.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"While Dijon certainly gets more name recognition, it is this IGP – called Moutarde de Bourgogne – that actually means something","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Désarménien, localising production was essential to maintaining the values of his artisanal business, which still stone-grinds its seeds at low temperature to maintain a slightly grainier texture and a fuller flavour. Of course, if Fallot can use exclusively Burgundian seeds, it's in large part because the company is far smaller than the four other mustard producers (Amora-Maille, Reine de Dijon, Européenne des Condiments and Charbonneaux-Brabant) sourcing at least some of their seeds from the association's producers.\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe four others, Désarménien said, are responsible for about 80 to 90% of all French Dijon mustard production, with Fallot representing about 5% of the total local mustard market. Reine de Dijon's Vandermaesen said that less than 1% of his production is currently in the IGP, in part due to the price of the Burgundian white wine required. \"But [this percentage] is growing,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOr it was.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf late, climate change and resulting infestations of mustard-loving meligethes (a type of pollen beetle) have halted – and even reversed – the growth of the local mustard market. And while pesticides were long the first line of defence, widespread insecticide resistance – not to mention the European Union's increasing stringency regarding chemical pesticides – has made it more difficult for growers to control these types of problems and bounce back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Until now, industrial producers were buying more and more from us each year,\" Ohleyer said. \"But production can't keep up.\" Despite the demand, she said, Burgundian seeds currently represent only 20-30% of the supply.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ct92zt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Mauriange, while these issues have certainly caused short-term problems for the mustard industry, there may be a silver lining to the recent shortage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project had been facing climate challenges these last few years, which discouraged a lot of farmers,\" she said, noting, nevertheless, that a rise in prices for seeds following the shortage \"has rekindled the dynamic\" and encouraged farmers to devote themselves ever more diligently to successful production of this now-scarce crop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Désarménien, the answer may indeed be found in the rich history of the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our ancestors had growing methods that allowed them to limit these eventualities – insects and the like,\" said Désarménien. \"Today, we're more in this mindset: of learning how we can move beyond chemicals to produce crops that may not be organic yet, but that are sustainable, if you like. That's our goal.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile \"Dijon mustard\" will likely never refer to a truly local product again, Moutarde de Bourgogne seems destined to develop its own reputation: not the connotations of grandeur or luxury Dijon producers have long capitalized on, but rather of sustainability and terroir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, if this year's harvest is any indication, the times seem to finally be changing for the little Burgundian mustard seed. Burgundian mustard growers brought in yields 50% higher than last year's, exceeding even the historic precedent set in 2016, French news outlet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.20minutes.fr\u002Feconomie\u002F3332119-20220731-consommation-plus-fort-penurie-producteurs-esperent-retour-moutarde-rayon-mois-novembre\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E20 Minutes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reported in late July. As a result, moutardiers expect to be able to restock the condiment shelves this November – just in time to add tangy, spicy flavour to France's most beloved autumnal dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-17T10:22:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why there's no 'Dijon' in Dijon mustard","headlineShort":"Why Dijon disappeared from France","image":["p0ct91w1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"47.3319646","longitude":"4.9620073","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ct91w1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"France is facing a widespread dearth of Dijon mustard, which news outlets wasted no time in attributing to the war in Ukraine. But the story is a whole lot spicier than that.","summaryShort":"\"There is almost no production of mustard in Dijon\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-16T23:23:53.246076Z","entity":"article","guid":"80918089-c463-4d93-aa13-4d314b736d17","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-02T10:56:27.927818Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220816-why-theres-no-dijon-in-dijon-mustard","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture","_id":"62df812843d9f46d9c49228c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Revivals of Gaelic traditions have come and gone on Cape Breton Island over the decades, but the ceilidh, a ‘kitchen party’ with food, music and dance, is alive and well today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENo matter where you go now on Cape Breton Island, you’re going to hear fiddle music, said Austin Patterson.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A Cape Breton ‘kitchen party’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a rainy Friday afternoon, Dale Gillis stepped into his Aunt Sandra’s kitchen carrying an old teak table top. “A little dancing board,” he said, referring to how the house’s soft grey carpet was not a suitable platform for the evening’s festivities. That day, they were preparing to host a \u003Cem\u003Eceilidh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a special party that would involve food (like oatcakes and cheese), drink, and plenty of music and dancing – and include the whole of Scotsville, a small town tucked into a remote corner of Cape Breton Island in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EPronounced ‘kay-lee’, ceilidh is a Gaelic word for a gathering of people or a visit. On Cape Breton, these often impromptu get-togethers – commonly referred to as ‘kitchen parties’ – have evolved from the early days (when people settled here from Scotland in the 18th and 19th Centuries) to centre on fiddle music.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E“A kitchen party happened at that time because it is the central room of the house, it was the central source of heat, it was where you had your food and all the things that happened in a general way of life,” said Allan Dewer, music director at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.celticmusiccentre.com\u002F\"\u003ECeltic Music Interpretive Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “And because they were sitting around having a drink or a meal, it was easy to take out a fiddle – and in some of the older homes, the piano was actually in the kitchen.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A fiddle in every household","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWith its roots in Gaelic culture, the ceilidh is a true slice of Cape Breton life. But over the years, it has faced some challenges as islanders have lost (and regained) interest because of modern life and lack of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAccording to local resident and general store owner, Austin Patterson, “There was a fiddle in every household and no doubt a person in every household that could play. That died away for a number of years until people realised what was happening and took an interest in it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A family of musicians and dancers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe Gillis family has certainly done its share in keeping the tradition alive. Dale, along with his siblings Krista, Kyle and Pat, are all avid musicians (or a step dancer, in Krista’s case) despite their busy day jobs. They grew up with the music and continue to play at the home of their Aunt Sandra, who is a master of the resident piano.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn that Friday evening, presumably like other ceilidh nights, they gathered with their family and friends from the community. The modest white house was packed nearly elbow to elbow, and a palpable heat was generated from all the fiddle bowing, piano plunking, foot tapping and step dancing. The floor pulsed in time to the music that filled the entire household.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":[],"videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"100,000 welcomes","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere’s a saying on the island that’s often seen written on signs, including one on a wall in Aunt Sandra’s kitchen: \u003Cem\u003Ecéad míle fáilte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning ‘100,000 welcomes’. For a community that readily invites people into their homes, it seems fitting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E“I think hospitality is a natural thing here, you know, I think people get a satisfaction out of bringing people into their homes and letting them enjoy a ceilidh, an evening together,” Gillis said. “In a way, it’s sad that it is dying out, but the movement to keep it afloat is good.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAn t-ionnsachadh òg, an t-ionnsachadh \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ebòidheach\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And that means, ‘Young learning is beautiful learning’, said Carmen MacArthur.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The revival of a lost language","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ceilidh isn’t the only part of traditional Cape Breton life that people are trying to preserve. Many locals are learning to speak Gaelic – commonly known as Nova Scotia Gaelic – which had nearly become extinct due to an education act issued by the English-speaking majority in the early 1900s that forbade its use in schools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My grandmother told me several times that when she started school she had actually gotten the strap for speaking Gaelic, but that was her mother tongue,” Gillis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Gaelic language teacher Carmen MacArthur, English was also thought of as ‘the language of progress’, so many islanders stopped speaking Gaelic to their children so they wouldn’t be at a disadvantage. However, thanks to enthusiasts like MacArthur, who value Gaelic as an essential part of Cape Breton identity, the language is seeing some resurgence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I’d say at least, probably in the last 15 or 20 years, there has been a revival going on. Really since there was an office of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgaelic.novascotia.ca\u002F\"\u003EGaelic Affairs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E established here in the province,” she said. “I’ve noticed a difference – since I started learning – in the number of people wanting to learn.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":[],"videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The Gaelic identity","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor MacArthur, who moved to Cape Breton (from the town of Pictou, further up the province) about 15 years ago, speaking Gaelic has brought her closer to the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I really just felt like I connected with the Gaels, the Gaelic speaking people – I felt at home with them, they’re very welcoming and very fun, a lot of humour,” she said. “I thought if I could speak to these people in their own native language that I could connect in a much deeper way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut on Cape Breton, the Gaelic culture is far more than just language; it also includes fiddle and pipe music, step dancing, storytelling and certain hospitality customs, all of which comes together at the ceilidh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Gaelic identity is just… it’s your background, it’s not just language,” Dewer said. “It’s all the pieces that come together that make your daily life, so the friends and family, the close-knit community – people will do things for one another.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENova Scotia is a Latin word that means 'New Scotland', said Dewar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A ‘New Scotland’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor several centuries, this Gaelic culture has closely mirrored its Scottish roots. Starting in the 1700s, thousands of Scottish people were displaced from their homes during the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish\u002Fcivil_war_revolution\u002Fscotland_clearances_01.shtml\"\u003EHighland Clearances\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, when the English monarchy took away their land for its own use. As a result, many Gaels made their way across the Atlantic by ship, landing in the eastern US and Canadian Maritimes. Those who came to Nova Scotia – especially to Cape Breton – held on tightly to their traditions and created a similar lifestyle to the one they had in Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The people that came here brought their culture, their language, their music, their dance, anything that was associated with their general way of life,” Dewer said. “They cleared land and became farmers and fisherman and any kind of job that would allow them to create a new life for themselves.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECuriously, the Cape Breton landscape also seems to echo that of the homeland. Towns have names like Inverness (with its own seaside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cabotlinks.com\u002F\"\u003Egolf course\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), Dunvegan, Glendale and, of course, Scotsville. Even the rugged coastline – which leads to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fns\u002Fcbreton\"\u003EHighlands National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – resembles the shores of Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The island more Scottish than Scotland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome say that the remoteness of Cape Breton Island, which is connected to the Nova Scotia peninsula by a causeway, has allowed Gaelic traditions such as the ceilidh to endure, even more so than in Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I think the tradition has lasted longer here in Cape Breton because of the rural-ness of the area and the [lack of] access to, even if I got my history right, power,” Gillis said. “This area didn’t have power until the mid-‘50s.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Gaelic music and culture in Cape Breton is rooted in Scottish tradition, it has evolved differently. According to Dewer, “A lot of the music in Scotland today has a Scottish sound in terms of what people recognise today, but it really has a lot of classical English influence.” In Cape Breton, aspects of the highland culture were well preserved. “Step dancing is something that is very high profile in the area, and the fiddling especially,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, both locales have been making a concerted effort to forge an ongoing connection to each other and keep traditions alive, including holding the annual \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ceolas.co.uk\u002F\"\u003ECeolas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E festival on the Scottish island of South Uist, which brings over musicians from Cape Breton to share their talents and ancestral knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The ‘vanishing Cape Breton fiddler'","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGaelic revivals have come and gone on Cape Breton Island over the decades. In the early 1970s, the local news picked up on the idea of the ‘vanishing Cape Breton fiddler’, which had become a common catchphrase in the area. This, according to Dewer, “Struck a nerve with everybody because within the tightknit communities there was not really a decline.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThough traditions might have been fading in the broad sense, the people rallied.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They took it upon themselves to say, you know, we’re not going to stand for this, we’re going to show that you’re wrong,” he said. “So they rounded up dozens and dozens, which turned into hundreds, to put on a display. And we now have all these fiddlers and the tradition is alive and well.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A party with no end in sight","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis last statement appears to hold water. Late that Friday evening, whenever things would start to wind down, a new twist would keep the party in motion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGuests of the Gillis’, nearly the whole town of Scotsville, continued to sip whisky (made at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.glenoradistillery.com\u002F\"\u003Elocal distillery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of course) and dive into the casseroles piled on the table, which seemed to multiply as the night wore on. After a pause between musical sets, people clasped hands and spontaneously started singing ballads in Gaelic while swaying back and forth. At midnight, a lone bagpiper arrived, took a seat in the living room and belted out a tune so powerful it could have made the dead step dance happily in their graves. Then everyone stood up, locked arms and slipped effortlessly into a coordinated square dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being bound by the confines of the small kitchen, their enthusiasm was boundless. It seems the ceilidh – and all things Gaelic – are more than alive and well in Aunt Sandra’s house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture-27"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-07-20T20:42:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Canadians bringing back Gaelic culture","headlineShort":"The island more Scottish than Scotland","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Revivals of Gaelic traditions have come and gone on Cape Breton Island over the decades, but the ceilidh, a ‘kitchen party’ with food, music and dance, is alive and well today.","summaryShort":"For centuries, this Gaelic culture has closely mirrored its Scottish roots","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:29:44.943767Z","entity":"article","guid":"e880c3fc-aeff-4695-a629-0baf5ab2f244","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-16T15:07:22.03218Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170719-the-canadians-bringing-back-gaelic-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island","_id":"62df7fbf43d9f46da30db2b9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It’s not the puffins of Machias Seal that have the US and Canada fighting – it is what lurks in the oceans just beyond the island.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"To the lighthouse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn Christmas morning, Anthony Ross woke up on an island at the point where the Gulf of Maine meets the Bay of Fundy. Outside, the wind whipped across the frozen brown grass, blowing snow in drifts against the lighthouse while waves lapped the rocky shore. In the next room, his older brother Russell was already awake and keeping a watchful eye on the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was not exactly how one pictures a family holiday, but for the lighthouse keepers of Machias Seal Island, it would have to make do. Once the helicopter lands on this 18-acre hunk of rock between the US and Canada, there is no going home until the end of the month.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You are away from home for 28 days at a time; that is the hardest part. But you get used to that,” said Russell, who has been a lighthouse keeper for about 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELuckily, Russell and Anthony came prepared with turkey, presents and beer – all anyone needs for a nice Christmas day. After decorating the tree and calling their families back home in Nova Scotia, the brothers tucked into a roast dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was a pretty good Christmas, all around,” Russell recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Contested land","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated smack-dab between the Canadian province of New Brunswick and the US state of Maine, Machias Seal Island is the only contested territory between Canada and the US on the East Coast. During the War of 1812, Great Britain (now Canada) and the US each laid claim to the land and the waters that surrounded it. Although the island is far too small and remote to be permanently settled, it was strategically located in the middle of a valuable shipping route, near Grand Manan Island (pictured), and neither country wanted to give it away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1832, Britain built a lighthouse on the island to physically stake its claim. Since then, Canadians have been living there, helping keep sailors away from its rocky coastline and protecting the land from both human and natural foes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The last lighthouse keepers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat is where Russell and Anthony come in. As lighthouse keepers on the island, they are part of a long line of watchmen manning Canada’s frontier in the Atlantic Ocean. While most of the lighthouses in Atlantic Canada have closed, the government has kept this one open – in part to keep its claim on the rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The opportunity we have to be here, to stay on here and man the island, it is important,” Anthony said. “There are not many light-keepers left.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENeither brother works full-time – union rules say that part-time keepers can only work three month-long shifts a year. But one full-time position may be opening up, and both Russell and Anthony want to go for it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“May the best man win,” Anthony said with a smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Island rhythms","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBoth brothers have been doing this long enough to know the island’s rhythms: the way it fades from emerald green to dusty brown with the seasons; how the puffins swoop and cackle when they spot a fish in the water; and how the lobster boats emerge from the horizon just after sunrise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The boats are fishing right in the cove there – you can see all the fishermen,” Russell said. “I have been here long enough that they know my name now, they know my voice on the [radio], and they know me too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERussell and Anthony also play a role as unofficial ambassadors for the island, greeting American and Canadian tour boats that dock during the summer, when the island turns into a seabird sanctuary. They treat everyone the same, no matter their nationality, offering the birdwatchers a hand onto the slippery, seaweed-covered boardwalk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The birds do not care; they do not know the difference,” said Russell of the US-Canada border dispute\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Getting there","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs island guardians, Russell and Anthony play an important role in protecting the thousands of seabirds – Atlantic puffins, common murres, Arctic terns and razorbill auks – that nest here during the summer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey help deter gulls that would prey on the young chicks, and also fend off one of nature’s biggest homewreckers: man.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs one of the largest seabird colonies on the East Coast – and the most diverse – the island is protected by Canadian Wildlife Services, which limits the number of tourists allowed on the island at any one time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Limits to tourism","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnly two tour boats, one from Maine and one from New Brunswick, are allowed to land each day on the island’s dock. With just 15 passengers per load, spots fill up fast. By early April, both boats have usually sold out for the entire birdwatching season, which runs from June to the first week of August.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThose lucky enough to score a spot must make their way to either the island of Grand Manan in New Brunswick or to Cutler, Maine, where the boats are docked. It can be tricky for the vessels to land on the narrow and rocky shores of Machias, and bad weather can easily cancel a long-awaited trip. But if the seas are fair, adventure-seekers may see a pack of seals sunning themselves on a rock during the boat ride (which is two hours from Maine and 1.5 hours from Grand Manan), or even spot a whale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Careful bird watching","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce on the island, tourists are restricted to boardwalks to keep them from stepping on a puffin burrow. The skittish birds like to avoid the human interlopers, so people crowd into wooden sheds called blinds, where they can observe the pigeon-sized, tuxedo-wearing birds undetected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe hassle is worth it, according to Dr Tony Diamond, who has been running the University of New Brunswick’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unb.ca\u002Fresearch\u002Falar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAtlantic Laboratory for Avian Research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (ALAR) since 1995.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It is the only seabird colony in the whole of the East Coast where the general public can actually come on shore and get a close-up look of the birds,” he said. “It is unmatched.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Birds everywhere","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn May, thousands of puffins flock to the island to dig their burrows and lay their eggs. Once the eggs have hatched, mama and papa puffin take turns guarding the chicks and going out into the sea to bring back dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis process, which can last until about August, attracts birdwatchers, scientists and wildlife photographers from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDuring the summer, three researchers from ALAR live on the island full-time to track and monitor the birds’ breeding season. It is a unique experience that helps scientists like Mark Dodds get a sense of not only the individual species, but how the ocean as a whole is doing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is like a little snapshot into the life of a bird,” Dodds said. “Through them you get a really good look at the ecosystem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Into the grey zone","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it is not the puffins of Machias Seal that have the US and Canada fighting – it’s what lurks in the ocean just beyond the island. Over the past decade, the price of lobster has about tripled, with fishermen able to command about CAD$4 (£3) a pound for their catch wholesale. On a good day, a lobster boat can easily earn thousands of dollars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat makes the contested waters around Machias, nicknamed the ‘grey zone’, a veritable goldmine. Neither country wants to relinquish rights to fish those waters, so the fishermen have worked out a kind of unofficial truce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Most of the time, if you try and work with them, they will try and work with you. But if you want to be a push and shove, you are going to be pushed and shoved back,” said Donald Harris, a fisherman from Grand Manan, a Canadian island of about 2,500 people located about an hour and a half, or 32km (20 miles), away by boat from Machias.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A lobster boom","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a lazy August afternoon, Harris and a couple of other fisherman are working on their boats out by the Grand Manan pier, taking it easy before the autumn season kicks in. Practically everybody on Grand Manan is a fisherman or knows someone who is – the industry is the lifeblood of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe lobster boom is evident everywhere you go in Grand Manan, from houses decked out with fresh coats of paint to boats laden with the latest gear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Lots changing. There’s a lot more people over here right now, there is a lot more stuff to do right now – our community’s getting better all the time,” said fisherman Dane Lynton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ‘grey zone’ has only added to their wealth. Although the Canadian lobster season officially ends in June, in 2002 the government decided to allow year-round lobster fishing in the 700-sq-km (270-sq-mi) ‘grey zone’. It has helped tide many a fisherman over in the off season, and helped grow the lobster boom in Grand Manan even more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That is just making money before we make more money,” Lynton said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The future of fishing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while many maintain that current regulations are enough to keep the fishery from being overfished, some are worried that the sky-high prices, driven by market demand in Asia, will prove too great a temptation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Man can ruin anything, right? And greed will ruin a lot of things too,” Harris said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough everyone is flush with cash for now, Harris has been around long enough to have seen the fortunes of the village go up and down with the tides, depending on what the catch is.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Usually Mother Nature looks after herself, but I have been around long enough. I have seen how the herring went, and the groundfish and the scalloping,” he said. “When you have only got lobster to rely on, and everybody is pounding so hard at the ‘grey zone’… it is all going to affect it sooner or later.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video and images by Mike Rossi)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-09-28T20:40:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Canada’s tiny disputed island","headlineShort":"The strange US-Canada border dispute","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It’s not the puffins of Machias Seal that have the US and Canada fighting – it is what lurks in the oceans just beyond the island.","summaryShort":"Both nations laid claim to this tiny island, and neither wants to give it up","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:33:24.979766Z","entity":"article","guid":"1eb785a4-480c-4cb0-a719-7886d3e5ab7b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:16:27.827138Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada","_id":"62df805f43d9f46da27b3851","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Getting ‘screeched in’, which turns a visitor into an honorary Newfoundlander, involves doing jigs with an ugly stick, kissing a codfish and a shot or two of rum.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuddenly, I’d become the post-dinner entertainment. I felt myself turning red as seven pairs of eyes stared at me – the girl from the US, now partially hidden inside an oversized fisherman’s jacket, dark green rubber boots and a yellow, broad-brimmed fisherman’s hat that’s known in these parts as a sou’wester’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was in Seal Cove, a village of about 300 people on the Baie Verte peninsula of the north-eastern coast of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada. I’d been brought here by my friend Sam, from nearby Middle Arm (population 474) and her fiancé Mark, who’d invited me to the cosy home of their friend’s grandmother, Lorraine Burton. I stood in the centre of the kitchen, in front of the dining table where we had just devoured a feast of freshly caught lobster and snow crab accompanied by juicy corn on the cob and crusty garlic bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven though I was getting stage fright for my upcoming performance, I had also secretly been waiting for this moment since my arrival to Newfoundland three weeks ago. I’d been picking up bits and pieces about this ‘screech-in’ ceremony, a welcome ritual of sorts that transforms an outsider into an honorary Newfoundlander. It’s not a compulsory ritual for visitors to the province, but if your host or friend thinks you might enjoy it, they will likely take you to one. I’d been brought to Burton, a screech-in expert who has been performing the ritual for the past 15 years here in her native Seal Cove. I only knew that there was a possibility of kissing a fish and a good chance I’d be downing shots of rum. I much preferred the latter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181029-in-china-chengdus-peculiar-ear-cleaning-custom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe roving ear cleaners of China\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181023-irans-fascinating-way-to-tell-fortunes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran’s fascinating way to tell fortunes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada’s tiny disputed island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Foldjockey.com\u002F2016\u002F12\u002F26\u002Fchapter-6-the-screech-in-ceremony\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Earticle on screech-ins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by native Newfoundlander and veteran journalist Roger Bill dates this ‘invented tradition’ back to the late 1960s or early 1970s. Although \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.downhomelife.com\u002Farticle.php?id=1905\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eit’s often attributed to a teacher\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, no-one has ever definitively been proven to be its inventor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Joan Sullivan, a native of the province’s capital city of St John’s and managing editor of arts and culture journal the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnqonline.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewfoundland Quarterly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the screech-in likely evolved from the bar scene of George Street in St John’s, where visitors to the province would be taken for a night of lively music and entertainment, Newfoundland style. However, the tradition soon faded away, in part, she explained, due to “the government under Clyde Wells, a strong critic of screech-ins, in the late 1980s, which kind of discouraged it.” She continued, “But in the ‘90s, the screech-in became a promotional tool of the Newfoundland liquor board. So the screech-in came back, and now it’s very much a force of its own.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Sullivan is one of the generation of Newfoundlanders who considers screech-ins to be ‘something not of Newfoundland’, she admits that “Many people seem to really enjoy the screech-in, and lots of people make a living doing it.” She continued, “Maybe someone made it up, but now the screech-in is a tradition, and it’s changing into its own thing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding beside me in a red plaid shirt, also sporting rubber boots and a sou’wester’, Burton handed me an ‘ugly stick’, a mop handle-turned-traditional Newfoundland musical instrument. She began: “You’re becoming an honorary Newfoundlander. In Newfoundland, we have traditions. First, you got to have a piece of this bologna,” she said, holding out a little plate with a half slice of the meat product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBurton explained that while it had become more expensive, bologna used to be cheap to buy and therefore was commonly eaten in the province.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Maybe someone made it up, but now the screech-in is a tradition, and it’s changing into its own thing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“And then you got to have a piece of this hard bread.” My host held out a plate with a piece of what is known here as Purity Hard Bread. This was a food of fishermen away at sea for weeks, who would soak the hard bread in water and mix it with pieces of cod. As I gnawed on the tough bread, my audience laughed in approval. Burton intervened, catching me mid-chew: “You’ve got to say something now.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Repeat after me: ‘Deed I is me old cock, and long may yer big jib draw’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe tumbling words crashed into me, the strong Newfoundlander accent sounding rather Irish; not surprisingly, of course, since Irish emigration to Newfoundland occurred in waves from the late 1600s, reaching its peak in the early 1800s. I laughed at the idea of pronouncing this tongue-twisting phrase. Burton told me that the first part simply meant ‘Indeed I am, my old friend’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Jib. What’s that?” I grabbed onto the strange word in an attempt to stall. Everyone started to discuss its meaning until I heard someone claim that a jib is a sail. Later, I learned from Jackie Hillier, a librarian at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.library.mun.ca\u002Fcns\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECentre for Newfoundland Studies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, that if your jib draws wind, sailing will be good. “Usually this was used as a good wish for the future,” she explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESam subsequently told me that the phrases used in the screech-in represent a dialect that is quickly disappearing, especially in St John’s. “These phrases are wishing the outsider good luck in their travels. How nice is that? It’s a lovely message that embodies what most people leave Newfoundland thinking about us, that we’re the nicest people in the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI took a deep breath, repeating the phrase to uproarious laughter. I laughed too, simply with relief that I’d tried.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Now have this dried squid,” Burton said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI chose the smallest piece, just in case.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI thought I might be done, until Burton sidled up to me and said, “How can you do ar-thing when you got nar-thing to do ar-thing wit?” There was that impossible accent again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe audience burst into peals of laughter again, and I tried not choke on my squid, shaking my head and smiling until my cheeks hurt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Wait, slow down,” I told a sparkly-eyed Burton. I moved closer to try and lip-read.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBurton repeated it slowly, and I followed in my mangled Newfoundlander accent as my very kind audience giggled and guffawed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI translated the phrase as ‘How can you do anything if you’ve got nothing to do anything with?’. Burton confirmed my translation. The phrase was tinged with melancholy, yet it also sounded very practical. Somehow, this made me feel like I understood the people of Newfoundland a little better. In such an isolated and remote place, the people did what they could with the resources provided by Mother Nature, living off the land and sea, hunting moose, fishing for cod and squid. But this also meant having to survive when resources were less than abundant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFinally came the words everyone had been waiting for: “Now you kiss the cod!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy audience shrieked with excitement as Burton approached, pointing a large, frozen codfish directly at me, mouth first. Cod fishing was the province’s life-giving industry for several centuries until the early 1990s, when the government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heritage.nf.ca\u002Farticles\u002Feconomy\u002Fmoratorium.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eplaced a moratorium on the practice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to depleted stock. Today, the fish is making a slow, tentative comeback and is still intrinsically linked to the local culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI pecked the very cold, barely thawed fish on what I decided were its lips. The crowd went wild, and I felt relieved that the weirdest part of this ceremony was over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, Burton led me to the table where I was instructed to pour myself a shot from a plastic bottle of spiced rum labelled ‘Newfoundland Screech’ and shoot it down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOriginally, this Caribbean-origin rum had no name. Thousands of litres of rum were brought by sailors from the British West Indies or Jamaica in exchange for salted cod, a trade practice dating back about 250 years. The Newfoundland government eventually began to bottle the rum in the early 20th Century, selling it sans label until the time when, as legend has it, an American sailor in Newfoundland downed a shot of the rum and gave out a ‘screech’. Hence, the name of the liquor, and consequently, the screech-in ceremony.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis entire time, I’d kept the ugly stick upright with one hand, but now Burton instructed me to start banging it on the ground. Without warning, she began to circle around me, skipping and high-stepping, dancing some kind of traditional jig. Suddenly she hooked her arm around mine and pulled me into the dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the song ended and we’d wiped our sweaty foreheads, Burton presented me with my screech-in certificate, sponsored by none other than Captain Morgan of rum fame. Burton told me you could now purchase packs of these certificates at the dollar store. The original certificate from the Newfoundland liquor board, however, had looked slightly different and included the signature of Premier Wells. But that version disappeared in 1989 when Wells ordered all certificates with his signature\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.downhomelife.com\u002Farticle.php?id=1905\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E to be shredded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to widespread debate about how the ritual was a debasement of Newfoundland’s culture. That same year, Newfoundland’s Heritage Coalition sponsored a contest to create a tradition that would replace the screech-in, but nothing came of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Who wouldn’t want to be an honorary Newfoundlander?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Sam what she thought about the screech-in controversy, she immediately responded, “But aren’t all traditions invented?” She continued, “I consider the screech-in a staple of the Newfoundland culture because of how well it reflects our province and its history. The cod embodies the success and the hardships of what it truly means to be a Newfoundlander. We’re resilient. Our economy has been a rocky, uphill climb with many trenches in between, but regardless, we still celebrate how blessed we are. We all metaphorically kiss the cod and are so thankful to live on this weird, quirky island that exists because of the cod fishery. And at the end of the day, who wouldn’t want to be an honorary Newfoundlander?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy sentiments exactly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-customs-that-bind-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Customs That Bind Us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that celebrates cultures around the world through the exploration of their distinctive traditions.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-06T19:19:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A strange welcome in Canada","headlineShort":"What it takes to be a Newfoundlander","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Getting ‘screeched in’, which turns a visitor into an honorary Newfoundlander, involves doing jigs with an ugly stick, kissing a codfish and a shot or two of rum.","summaryShort":"It involves doing jigs with an ugly stick and kissing a fish","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:25:29.027642Z","entity":"article","guid":"274ec44e-1917-4df9-99d2-b19d1426aa83","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:39:18.73278Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","_id":"62df811e43d9f4572408ab80","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Spread over a vast, remote landscape in north-western Saudi Arabia are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe car was gliding smoothly along the immaculately maintained highway in AlUla, a region in north-western Saudi Arabia\u003Cstrong\u003E,\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E when my driver abruptly veered off the road. \"I missed the turning,\" he said. I looked out of the window in confusion as I couldn't see an obvious bend. \"Here,\" he exclaimed, as the car jolted across basalt rocks to join a barely discernible path into the desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe drove into a vast, flat landscape. A bright blue sky enclosed us on all sides and a smattering of white clouds hung low. After a few minutes, we stopped by acircle of stacked stones. I climbed out of the car, waiting to meet Jane McMahon, part of a team of archaeologists from the University of Western Australia that has been working in AlUla since 2018. All around me was an arid plain of grey-black rocks lightly dusted in pink-hued sand\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThere was something otherworldly about it all: the lack of a single tree or a blade of grass; the stillness of the air that was only occasionally interrupted by a bitter gust of wind that chilled you to the bone.\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd come here because recent discoveries in AlUla are shining a light on a fascinating period of history in Saudi Arabia. Since the nation only opened for international research a few years ago (and to tourists in 2019), many of its ancient sites are being studied for the first time. While historians are familiar with the ruins of the 2,000-year-old cities Hegra and Dadan and their place on the Incense Route (Hegra's tombs and monuments are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1293\u002F\"\u003Ea Unesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), they didn't have much knowledge about the civilisation that came before, until now.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat has been discovered is that spread over AlUla's vast, remote landscape are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory. Work by McMahon and her colleagues is shedding light on some of the earliest stone monuments in world history – predating Stonehenge and the earliest pyramid in Giza.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen McMahon arrived, she explained that the circle of rocks next to me was the remains of a house occupied in the Neolithic period (from 6000 to 4500 BCE), and that this area was once scattered with thriving settlements. Until recently, the prevailing wisdom was that this region had little human activity until the Bronze Age after 4000 BCE. But McMahon and her colleagues' work has unearthed a very different story: that Neolithic Saudi Arabia was a dynamic, intensely populated, complex landscape spread over a vast area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround me were more than 30 dwellings and tombs, and that was just a tiny fraction of the remains here. I tried to imagine the landscape as it may have been thousands of years ago: green, lush and teeming with people as they moved noisily round, herding goats and calling out to each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The climate and inert landscape of Saudi Arabia means most of the archaeology is pretty well preserved on the surface from 5,000 to 8,000 years ago. So exactly as you see it is how it was all that time ago,\" McMahon said, explaining that understanding more about the lives of these early peoples could also shed light on how the large, dense settlements of Hegra and Dedan developed, and how cultural and technological changes in the region, such as irrigation farming, metalworking and written texts, came about over the following millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The cultural changes that took place following the Neolithic are huge, but we don't know a lot of how those changes happened,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, even in the hands of such experienced archaeologists, one AlUla discovery has continued to elude explanation\u003Cspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E Spread over an area of a staggering 300,000 sq km and built to a fairly consistent type, are 1,600 monumental rectangular stone structures that also date to the Neolithic period. Initially named \"gates\" due to their appearance from the air, the structures were later renamed \"mustatil\", which translates to \"rectangle\" in Arabic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It makes the mind race that we have structures as big as five to six football fields, made of thousands of tonnes of stone, that not only cover such as massive geographic region but that also are 7,000 years old,\" said Dr Hugh Thomas, co-director of Aerial Archaeology in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Projects (AAKSAU). He has been working alongside McMahon for the past two years conducting aerial archaeology surveys and targeted excavations to understand the mustatil's purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In my opinion, mustatil are some of the most unique archaeological structures so far identified in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMustatil are certainly impressive, and the only real way to get a sense of their size is from the air. When I flew over them in a helicopter, I could see the large stones laid out in straight lines across the sand, about the length of four football fields and a width of at least two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In my opinion, mustatil are some of the most unique archaeological structures so far identified in the world,\" Thomas said. \"When we look at other structures dating to the Neolithic that are just as impressive in their construction, I am hard-pressed to think of any that cover such a large geographic region.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Thomas's team has recorded mustatil of varying sizes and complexity, they've also noted consistent characteristics. They're all constructed in a similar manner, by piling rocks to form low walls that are filled with gravel, and they include a head (the top of the structure), a base, and long walls connecting them. Some have entrances and multiple narrow interior courtyards. The stones used for building have been especially chosen to fit together to support the large structures, displaying a deep understanding of local materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese prehistoric monuments were first recorded in the 1960s by a local team carrying out ground surveys, but at that point, no one knew what they were. Remote sensing surveys carried out by Professor David Kennedy (also from the University of Western Australia), in 2017 intensified interest, and initial theories suggested they were used as territorial markers for ancestral grazing grounds. Yet, as more and more were found, all dating to the same period, a different understanding emerged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThomas, McMahon and their teams have since unearthed evidence that suggests cultic practice. They've uncovered large numbers of cattle, goat and wild gazelle skulls and horns in small chambers in the heads of the mustatil, but found no indication that these were kept for domestic use. Since no other animal's body parts were found, it led the team to deduce that these were sacrificial. It further suggested that the animals were sacrificed elsewhere. This is important because it is evidence of a highly organised, cultic society, much earlier than was previously thought – predating Islam in the region by 6,000 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Excavation of several mustatil have revealed artefacts suggestive of ritual practices taking place inside the structures,\" said Thomas. \"The people who built them had a shared culture and belief system and this was not a practice that was localised. It spread across a huge swathe of Arabia about the size of Poland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThomas added: \"Saudi Arabia has had the appearance of being an arid and inhospitable landscape, viewed in isolation from the rest of the world other than a few notable sites, such as Dedan and Hegra. However, archaeological evidence, such as the mustatil, demonstrate that the region had a rich and complex history. To have a structure so widely dispersed across such a massive area suggests a shared belief system, language and culture on a scale that I personally never imagined possible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The people who built them had a shared culture and belief system and this was not a practice that was localised. It spread across a huge swathe of Arabia about the size of Poland","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMunirah Almushawh, co-director of an archaeological project in Khaybar (another area of AlUla), agrees, noting that not only did this society share a single belief system, but they travelled huge distances to share the knowledge that allowed them to build the structures. Some of the mustatils weigh as much as 12,000 tonnes; more than the Eiffel Tower. Their construction would have required knowledge, skill and organisation over long periods of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The mustatil suggests large social networks, innovative architectural skills and vast exploration in prehistoric Arabia,\" Almushawh said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite these exciting discoveries, knowledge of mustatil is still in its infancy, with just five of the 1,600 excavated so far. What is certain is that AlUla will only continue to reveal its mysteries. As the region reopens for tourism post-pandemic, plans are in place to construct a massive, open-air museum where visitors can self-navigate around various archaeological sites or be taken through by a guide. Travellers will be able to learn about the Neolithic period, see the ancient ruins of homes and mustatil and imagine for themselves how this seemingly highly organised society lived and moved through the landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMcMahon and Thomas are as excited for AlUla's future as much as for its past. \"The significance of what we've discovered is rewriting the history of the Neolithic in north-west Arabia,\" said McMahon. \"Our work has so far uncovered only what has always existed: the complexity of the Neolithic period in this region, which had previously been considered either uninhabitable or merely unimportant in this time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-05T10:44:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A mysterious cult that predates Stonehenge","headlineShort":"A mystery cult that predates Stonehenge","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.6031","longitude":"37.9295","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Spread over a vast, remote landscape in north-western Saudi Arabia are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory.","summaryShort":"The vast archaeological site could change our understanding of prehistory","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-04T21:54:15.256698Z","entity":"article","guid":"2acf60b5-2244-424a-887e-53fb42d271bc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T21:54:15.256698Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","_id":"62df7f3843d9f458706f1adc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nearly 2,000 years on, how are the Colosseum and the Pantheon still standing despite earthquakes, floods and military conflicts?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInside the Colosseum's stone and mortar bowl, visitors have ample space to picture the roaring crowds of more than 50,000 that once thronged to the arena for events ranging from bloody gladiatorial battles to opulent processions and chariot races. Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the venue's grand opening in 80 AD featured 100 straight days of games and gore that are said to have included the slaughter of some 9,000 animals. At four storeys tall and 188m across at its widest point, the oval structure remains the \u003Cspan\u003Elargest amphitheatre in the world\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConstructed around 40 years later, the Pantheon houses a mind-bending dome that spans 43m of air and culminates in a pupil-like circular window at its apex known as the oculus that floods the interior with natural light. The name Pantheon, which combines the Greek words for \"all\" and \"gods\", suggests a religious function, but some historians think the monument was mainly constructed to pay tribute to Roman emperors. Despite the ravages of time, the iconic half-sphere remains intact and is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it came to building big, the Romans clearly knew what they were doing. Nearly 2,000 years after they were constructed, these two enormous and technically astounding structures have withstood earthquakes, floods and military conflicts, long outlasting the empire that spawned them and becoming physical embodiments of the enduring influence of Roman culture across the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut how did ancient Rome accomplish such monumental, long-lasting architecture so long ago?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEngineers and materials scientists are still studying Roman structures today, and they say the secret is the marriage of ingenious design with an innovative recipe for concrete, a supremely durable and adaptable material that is still used the world over. While the Romans didn't invent concrete, they certainly raised the bar for building with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPouring concrete allowed Roman architects to achieve almost any shape they could imagine, limited only by their ability to construct the wooden forms necessary to mould the rocky slurry. But the arches, vaults and domes that are signatures of Roman buildings were not just flights of fancy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Old cobblestone street in Rome and Pantheon in the centre, Italy","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe highest expressions of the Roman Empire's built environment confront modern visitors with an \"engineering approach\", said Renato Perucchio, a mechanical engineer at the University of Rochester in New York. \"The Romans performed sophisticated analyses that led them to these designs, which were then expressed through an extremely careful construction process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe concrete that held these designs together was also unique and deeply considered. Roman concrete used a different recipe than modern concrete, and researchers studying this ancient material say its ingredients appear to endow the material with phenomenal resistance to degradation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, most concrete is made up of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cement.org\u002Fcement-concrete\u002Fhow-cement-is-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eportland cement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a combination of silica sand, limestone, clay, chalk and other minerals that is baked around 2,000C and crushed into fine powder – and pieces of rock or sand called aggregate. Mixing the rocky aggregate, which varies in size from sand to gravel to small chunks of stone, with the cement makes the resulting concrete stronger and saves cement. Finally, adding water to the concrete mix sets off a chemical reaction in the cement that binds these elements together. For the most part, aggregate in modern concrete is carefully chosen to be as chemically inert as possible. The idea is to avoid any unwanted chemistry once this initial reaction concludes, since any additional reactions down the road usually crack or otherwise weaken the concrete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient skyscraper cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoman concrete, on the other hand, is a simpler mix of quicklime made from baking and crushing limestone rocks and, most importantly, volcanic rock aggregates of various types, which were abundant in the region surrounding Rome. In contrast to the aggregates used in modern concrete, these volcanic materials used by the Romans are highly reactive and the resulting concrete remains chemically active for centuries after it first hardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Portland cements nowadays are not meant to change chemically, and if they do change it's usually going to have a bad effect,\" said Marie Jackson, a geologist at the University of Utah who has been studying Roman concrete for decades. \"Romans wanted their concrete to react. They chose an aggregate that would continue to participate in the concrete processes over time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast to modern concrete, this ongoing reactivity allows Roman concrete to get stronger over time. These long-term chemical reactions can serve to reinforce small cracks that often form between the pieces of aggregate and the binding cement and prevent them from propagating farther. This regenerative capacity, made possible by the reactive volcanic minerals, is what enables Roman concrete's tremendous capacity to endure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Modern concrete construction might last 100 years with maintenance, but some Roman structures have survived for 1,000 years or more essentially unassisted","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sure, we can produce concrete with greater tensile strength today, but so what?\" said Perucchio. \"Modern concrete construction might last 100 years with maintenance, but some Roman structures have survived for 1,000 years or more essentially unassisted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Oculus in The Pantheon with the light shining through","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough researchers had suspected for many years that it was the addition of volcanic minerals that gave Roman concrete its staying power, it wasn't until 2014 that Jackson and others \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoi.org\u002F10.1073\u002Fpnas.1417456111\"\u003Erevealed the precise chemistry involved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In their study, they tested a concrete mix based on what was used in the construction of Trajan's Markets in Rome and observed the growth of plate-like crystals of a mineral called strätlingite in the so-called \"interfacial zones\" between the chunks of volcanic rock and the cement holding the mixture together. The researchers wrote that these crystals served to reinforce these interfacial zones, which are typically the weakest link in concretes made with portland cement, rendering the Roman concrete more resistant to cracking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERecently, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoi.org\u002F10.1111\u002Fjace.18133\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enew study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Jackson and others published in autumn 2021 suggests that crystalline strätlingite isn't the only byproduct of the ancient concrete's ongoing reactivity that keeps it holding strong. The team studied a sample of concrete from the 21m-tall cylindrical tomb of a Roman noblewoman named Caecilia Metella that was constructed around 30 BC near an ancient Roman road known as the Appian Way. This concrete, it turned out, was made using volcanic rocks that contained lots of a potassium-rich mineral called leucite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the course of the 2,000 years following the tomb’s construction, rain and groundwater seeped into the tomb's walls and dissolved the leucite, releasing its potassium into the concrete. In modern concrete, being inundated with potassium would create expanding gels and cause cracking and deterioration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Jackson and her colleagues instead found that the reactive volcanic minerals in Roman concrete facilitated a different outcome. The dissolved potassium ended up reconfiguring the chemical \"glue\" that forms the backbone of hardened concrete, which maintained and enhanced the strength of the material despite containing significantly less strätlingite than the team observed in the Trajan's Market concrete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for why Roman concrete’s longevity appears to have a slightly different explanation in these two contexts, Linda Seymour, who worked on the study while completing her PhD at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in the US, said it’s partly “that these structures experienced different environments, which then resulted in different chemical processes\". Seymour said the differences can also be accounted for by “the varying chemical compositions of the aggregates the Romans used – but the common thread is this ongoing reactivity that results in a non-detrimental reconfiguration of the concrete over time\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Trajan's Market in the afternoon light","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe chemical diversity of Roman concrete likely means not everything they tried worked equally well, but in the Colosseum and the Pantheon we have two irrefutable testaments to the material's success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the Colosseum, concrete isn't necessarily the star of the show but it has played an integral role in the arena's survival. The most prominent material at the Colosseum is travertine limestone, but concrete is what holds the amphitheatre's many iconic archways aloft. Yet, perhaps the most significant contribution of concrete to the Colosseum's longevity is out of sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can't see it as a tourist, but the reason the Colosseum is still standing is because of its incredibly robust concrete foundation,\" said Jackson. That concrete foundation is packed with dense, heavy lava rock aggregate and is a full 12m thick, she added. Without such a strong, long-lasting material at its foundation, the Colosseum would have been reduced entirely to rubble by the region's earthquakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo visit to Rome would be complete without a visit to the Colosseum, but for anyone seeking the pinnacle of concrete construction in the ancient world, Perucchio says the Pantheon's unreinforced dome is a must.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the Pantheon's rotunda, the distance from the floor to the very top of the dome is virtually identical to the dome's 43m diameter, inviting anyone inside to imagine the huge, perfect sphere that could be housed within its interior. When trying to appreciate the Pantheon's dome, \"unreinforced\" is really the key word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerucchio said that if an architect tried to build the Pantheon today, the plans would be denied because without reinforcement, such as the steel bars commonly used in modern concrete structures, the dome would violate modern civil engineering code\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rome skyline at sunset with Tiber river and St. Peter's Basilica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The dome creates very high tensile stresses, yet it's been standing for 19 centuries,\" said Perucchio. \"From this you can draw one of two conclusions: either gravity worked differently in Roman times; or there is knowledge that we have lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApart from the unique chemistry of their concrete, the Roman architects behind the Pantheon deployed innumerable tricks to achieve their vision. Two such tricks were aimed at making the dome's walls as light as possible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring construction, the concrete that makes up the building's half-spherical ceiling had to be poured from the bottom up into wooden frames that formed successive concentric rings. But to ease the immense tensile stresses Perucchio mentioned, the builders used progressively lighter volcanic rocks as aggregate as they got closer to the dome's apex as well as making the walls themselves thinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the lowest, widest part of the dome, the concrete contains large blocks of heavy basalt for strength and is about 6m thick. By contrast, the last layer surrounding the oculus uses airy pumice stone, which is so light it floats in water, as aggregate and is roughly 2m thick.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe second trick can be seen all over the inside of the dome. The curved interior of the ceiling is covered in hollowed out rectangles known as coffers. These geometric coffers are mesmerising, but they're not simply there for aesthetics. They also reduced the amount of concrete required to build the dome and made it lighter, which reduced stress on the materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I consider it one of the most extraordinarily beautiful structures ever built","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The Pantheon is a magical place,\" said Perucchio. \"I've been there countless times, but every time I am filled with enormous admiration for the architecture and engineering involved. I consider it one of the most extraordinarily beautiful structures ever built.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Pantheon, concrete may have achieved its most sublime form – a book on the structure declares it a \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.romanconcrete.com\u002Fdocs\u002Fpanover\u002Fpanover.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etriumph of concrete\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" – but Admir Masic, a materials scientist at MIT and co-author of the 2021 study, said that in the modern world concrete is \"somewhat evil\" despite all the useful and even beautiful things it can do. That's because producing the portland cement that goes into today's concrete is responsible for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fd41586-021-02612-5#ref-CR3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eat least 8% of global carbon emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Colosseum in Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMasic and Jackson are studying Roman concrete with an eye towards making today's concrete more environmentally friendly. The biggest advantage of Roman concrete, Masic said, is that its lime-based binder only needs to be heated to around 900C, while portland cement needs to be fired at close to 1,450C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis alone means that Roman concrete has the potential to offer massive reductions in the carbon footprint of concrete production. But Masic said the material's' longevity could also allow us to replace infrastructure less frequently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Imagine we start to build infrastructure that lasts 500 years instead of 100 years, and that we add Roman concrete's self-healing property to every project we do,\" Masic said. \"We might sell less concrete as a result but that's exactly the problem in our current mode of infrastructure. Making things that last longer is perhaps the simplest way to improve sustainability.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJackson and her collaborators are working on a US Department of Energy ARPA-e project to develop a Roman-like concrete with the goals of potentially reducing the emissions associated with concrete production and installation by 85% and quadrupling its lifespan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong the biggest obstacles to wider adoption of the Roman recipe are its long curing time – it can take up to six months to reach full strength, compared to standard concrete's' 28 days – and lower strength (Perucchio said it's approximately 10 times weaker than modern concrete), which means it might fail in some heavyweight modern applications.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Masic said there are ways of speeding up the chemistry involved in Roman concrete's curing process. He's working on a technique that involves injecting Roman concrete with carbon dioxide that might allow the mixture to cure in a matter of days. \"We don't' need to copy what the Romans did exactly,\" he said, \"but when it comes to making concrete more durable and more sustainable, they clearly have some things to teach us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-20T06:58:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How are Rome's monuments still standing?","headlineShort":"How Rome's monuments are still standing","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"(Credit: Anton Aleksenko\u002FGetty Images)","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.8902","longitude":"12.4922","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"(Credit: Anton Aleksenko\u002FGetty Images)","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nearly 2,000 years on, how are the Colosseum and the Pantheon still standing despite earthquakes, floods and military conflicts?","summaryShort":"When it came to building big, the Romans knew what they were doing","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T20:56:36.906234Z","entity":"article","guid":"52fe2f4e-32b8-439c-873d-c33ae5d66b81","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:55.515375Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars","_id":"62df7f7d43d9f457560e54e4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Created 300 years ago, Jaipur's Jantar Mantar is an outdoor complex filled with gargantuan astronomy tools designed to be used by the naked eye – and they're still accurate.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a week after the spring equinox, on a cloudless and hot afternoon. Perhaps a wrong time to venture out for sightseeing in Rajasthan's desert capital of Jaipur, but a perfect one to measure time with shadows cast by the sun. I strode through the frenzy of the Johri bazaar, the city's main market – its coral walls, delicate lattices and Mughal arches sweeping by as I headed towards the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jantarmantar.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJantar Mantar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, India's mysterious gateway to the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, this open-air complex filled with strange triangular walls and stairways to nowhere seems out of place: it's neither ornate like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froyaljaipur.in\u002Findex.php\u002Fexplore\u002Fcity-palace\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECity Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that surrounds it nor intricate like the revered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjaipurtourism.co.in\u002Fgovind-dev-ji-temple-jaipur\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGovind Dev Ji Temple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hawa-mahal.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHawa Mahal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe site – a 300-year-old collection of 20 scientific sculptures called \u003Cem\u003Eyantra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E that can measure the positions of stars and planets, and precisely tell the time – had bemused me since my childhood here in Jaipur, when the structures seemed like giant versions of the delicate tools I kept in my school geometry kit. But years later, as a professional architect, I could better comprehend their use. They are ingenious architectural solutions to understanding the mechanics of astronomy, as well as key tools for traditional Hindu astrologers to craft birth charts and forecast auspicious dates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1727, when the region's king, Sawai Jai Singh, conceived Jaipur as his capital and as the country's first planned city, he wanted to design it based on the principles of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanskritimagazine.com\u002Fvedic_science\u002Fvastu-shastra\u002Fa-brief-history-of-vastu-shastra\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVastu Shastra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which draw on nature, astronomy and astrology to inform architecture and placement. He realised that to perfectly align Jaipur with the stars, aid in astrological practices and predict key weather events for crops, he would need instruments that were accurate and accessible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, after sending research teams across Central Asia and Europe to collect data based on the knowledge of Islamic and European scientists, Sawai Jai Singh found discrepancies among the readings of the brass instruments that were widely used at the time. To increase accuracy, he scaled up the size of the tools, stabilised them by reducing moving parts and made them resistant to wear and weather by fashioning them out of marble and local stone. Then he used these innovations to build five outdoor observatories in the Indian cities of Jaipur, Delhi, Ujjain, Varanasi and Mathura.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFour Jantar Mantar survive (Mathura’s was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jantarmantar.org\u002Flearn\u002Fobservatories\u002Fsites\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edemolished\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), but the one in Jaipur, completed in 1734, is the biggest and most comprehensive. Today, it is a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1338\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, not only because it's the best-preserved observatory of its kind in India, but as the Unesco inscription explains, it represents innovations in architecture, astronomy, and cosmology, as well as learnings and traditions from Western, Middle Eastern, Asian, and African cultures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Sanskrit, \u003Cem\u003Ejantar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means instruments, and \u003Cem\u003Emantar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E denotes calculator, so each of the yantra in the complex has a mathematical purpose: some are sundials to tell the local time and pinpoint the sun's position on the hemisphere; while others measure constellation and planetary movements to detect zodiac signs and guide forecasts\u003Cstrong\u003E.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most prominent of all is an enormous equinoctial sundial called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jantarmantar.org\u002Flearn\u002Fobservatories\u002Finstruments\u002Fsamrat\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESamrat Yantra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 27m-high triangular wall with two thin, semi-circular ramps that radiate like wings from its sides. Standing beneath it, my guide pointed out the shadow on one of the ramps as it moved precisely 1mm every second and indicated the local time within an accuracy of two seconds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother yantra, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jantarmantar.org\u002Flearn\u002Fobservatories\u002Finstruments\u002FjaiPrakash\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJai Prakash\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, measures the sun's trajectory through the Indian Vedic zodiac signs to determine horoscopes. Its bowl-shaped structure, which is set into the ground, is like an inverted map of the sky, and a tiny metal plate suspended on a crosswire casts a shadow to show the position of a chosen star or planet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I used these instruments in my two years of the master's programme quite often,\" said Neha Sharma, who now holds a doctorate in Jyotish Shastra (Vedic astrology) from Rajasthan University. \"Learning to read and calculate from these instruments is still a compulsory part of the curriculum for anyone who wants to pursue astrology as a career option.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, most of the modern scientific world viewed the Jantar Mantar observatories as a novelty until renowned Indian astrophysicist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.thewire.in\u002Fsociety\u002Fgender\u002Fwomen\u002Frathnasree-nandivada-nehru-planetarium-astronomical-society-of-india\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDr Nandivada Rathnasree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E argued that the structures were still pertinent. In her role as the director of Delhi's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nehru-centre.org\u002Fplanetarium\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENehru Planetarium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (from 1999 until her death in 2021), she encouraged students to gain hands-on experience of positional astronomy at the various Jantar Mantar, and pushed for their academic and international recognition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was Nandivada Rathnasree who got Jantar Mantar into the limelight in the scientific fraternity,\" said Rima Hooja, an archaeologist and consultant director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froyaljaipur.in\u002Findex.php\u002Fexplore\u002Fcity-palace\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the City Palace. \"She also played a pivotal role in getting Jantar Mantar Jaipur recognised as a Unesco World Heritage site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Jantar Manatar continues to garner fame, not only for its architectural ingenuity but for its classical style. \"Superficially, Jantar Mantar may not look like an indigenous architecture,\" said Kavita Jain, a conservation architect based in Jaipur. \"But when you look at it closely, the high-rise sundial is made stable by creating voids in the form of arches. The Hindu canopies crowning the instruments, the marble and the stone used in the construction are all reminiscent of local architectural values.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, students, scientists and tourists from many disciplines and cultures across the world understand that Jaipur's Jantar Mantar is much more than a historical monument. Situated at the core of a thriving ancient city of forts and palaces, its monolithic structures continue to mirror the cosmos and create a lasting legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-31T10:06:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"India's mysterious gateway to the stars","headlineShort":"The city built on a cosmic grid","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.924762","longitude":"75.822366","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Created 300 years ago, Jaipur's Jantar Mantar is an outdoor complex filled with gargantuan astronomy tools designed to be used by the naked eye – and they're still accurate.","summaryShort":"Scientists can still use its centuries-old instruments to read the sky","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-30T22:07:37.897538Z","entity":"article","guid":"a3147613-f75c-460a-98ba-72d528544f22","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-07T01:22:16.451773Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","_id":"6304020143d9f457377247c0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgeena-truman"],"bodyIntro":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur – an incredibly well-preserved engineering achievement that towers over the ruins of an important ancient city.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround 4,000 years ago, this pale, hard-packed spit of Iraqi desert was the centre of civilisation. Today the ruins of the great city of Ur, once an administrative capital of Mesopotamia, now sit in a barren wasteland near Iraq's most notorious prison. In the shadow of the towering prison fences, Abo Ashraf, the self-proclaimed caretaker of the archaeological site, and a handful of tourists are the only signs of life for miles. At the end of a long wooden walkway, an impressive ziggurat is nearly all that remains of the ancient Sumerian metropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo get here, I'd been packed into the backseat of a taxi hurtling through the desert for hours, until I began to see the city's famed monument looming in the distance: the Ziggurat of Ur, a 4,100-year-old massive, tiered shrine lined with giant staircases. A tall chain link fence barricading the entrance and a paved parking lot were the only hints of the modern world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe very first ziggurats pre-date the Egyptian pyramids, and a few remains can still be found in modern-day Iraq and Iran. They are as imposing as their Egyptian counterparts and also served religious purposes, but they differed in a few ways: ziggurats had several terraced levels as opposed to the pyramids' flat walls, they didn't have interior chambers and they had temples at the top rather than tombs inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A ziggurat is a sacred building, essentially a temple on a platform with a staircase,\" said Maddalena Rumor, an Ancient Near-East specialist at Case Western Reserve University in the US. \"The earliest temples show simple constructions of one-room shrines on a slight platform. Over time, temples and platforms were repeatedly reconstructed and expanded, growing in complexity and size, reaching their most perfect shape in the multi-level Ziggurat [of Ur].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ziggurat of Ur was built a bit later (about 680 years after the first pyramids), but it is renowned because it is one of the best-preserved, and also because of its location in Ur, which holds a prominent place in history books. According to Rumor, Mesopotamia was the origin of artificial irrigation: the people of Ur cut canals and ditches to regulate the flow of water and irrigate land further from the Euphrates River banks. Ur is also believed to be the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.csmonitor.com\u002FScience\u002F2013\u002F0404\u002FHome-of-Abraham-Ur-unearthed-by-archaeologists-in-Iraq\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebirthplace of biblical Abraham\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and, as Ashraf explained while he walked us through the ruined walls of the city, the home of the first code of law, the Code of Ur-Nammu, written around 2100 BCE – 400 years before Babylonia's better-known Code of Hammurabi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv0djr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In Mesopotamia, every city was believed to have been founded and built as the residence of a god\u002Fgoddess… who acted as its protector and political authority,\" Rumor said. In Ur, that was Nanna the moon god – for whom the ziggurat was constructed as an earthly home and temple. \"The cult of Nanna developed very early around the lower course of the Euphrates (at the centre of which was Ur) in connection with the herding of cows and the cycles of nature that increased the herd,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe structure's lower tiers remain today, though the temple and upper terraces at the top have been lost. To figure out what they looked like, specialists have used all kinds of technology and ancient writings (from historians like Herodotus, as well as the Bible). In her 2016 paper, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fssrn.com\u002Fabstract=2797629\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Ziggurat and the Moon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Amelia Sparavigna, an archaeological imaging specialist with the Polytechnic University of Turin, wrote, \"[Ziggurats] were pyramidal structures with a flat top, with a core made up of sun-baked bricks, covered by fired bricks. The facings were often glazed in different colours...\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBased on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penn.museum\u002Fsites\u002Fjournal\u002F1235\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eremnants found at the site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it has been generally agreed that the Ziggurat of Ur held a cerulean temple sitting atop two massive mud-brick tiers. The base alone consisted of more than 720,000 meticulously stacked mud bricks, weighing up to 15kg each. Reflecting Sumerian knowledge of the lunar and solar cycles, each of the ziggurat's four corners pointed in a cardinal direction as exact as a compass, and a grand staircase to the upper levels was oriented toward the summer solstice sunrise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI could see the remains of this great achievement as Ashraf led me and the other few tourists to the main staircase. He knows the site well: he moved here with his father 38 years ago to assist with archaeological digs, and his family home lies just steps from the entrance. Once I reached the summit, I could imagine the ancient kingdom sprawling out in every direction thousands of years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv0d7q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKing Ur-Nammu laid the ziggurat's first brick in 2100 BCE, and construction was later completed by his son King Shulgi, by which time the city was the flourishing capital of Mesopotamia. But by the 6th Century BCE, the ziggurat was in ruins thanks to the desert's extreme heat and harsh sand. King Nabonidus of Babylonia set to work restoring it around 550 BCE, but instead of re-creating the original three tiers, he built seven, aligning with other grandiose Babylonian structures of the time, such as the Etemenanki ziggurat, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftechnology\u002Fziggurat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome believe was the famed tower of Babel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe bulk of the ziggurat remains intact today largely due to three ingenious innovations by the original Sumerian engineers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst was ventilation. As with other ziggurats, this one was constructed with a core of mud bricks surrounded by an exterior of sun-baked bricks. And since that core retained moisture that could have led to the overall degradation of the structure, the Sumerians bored hundreds of square holes into the outer walls to allow for quick evaporation. Rumor explained that without this detail, \"the mud-brick interiors could soften during heavy rains, and eventually bulge or collapse\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESecond, the walls were built at a slight slant. This allowed water to flow down the ziggurat's sides, preventing pooling on the upper levels; the angle made the structure appear larger from a distance, intimidating the empire's enemies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELastly, the temple on top was built with fully baked mud bricks held together by bitumen. This naturally occurring tar staved off water seepage into the unbaked core.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite these achievements, by the 6th Century CE, the once-thriving metropolis had metaphorically and physically dried up. The Euphrates River had changed its course, leaving the city without water and therefore uninhabitable. Ur and the ziggurat were abandoned and subsequently buried beneath a mountain of sand by wind and time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't until 1850 that the remains of the ziggurat were found again; later, in the 1920s, British archaeologist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penn.museum\u002Fsites\u002Fjournal\u002F1235\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESir Leonard Woolley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E led an in-depth excavation of the monument, uncovering what was left of the structure and digging up gold daggers, carved statues, delicate lyres and intricate headdresses \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.metmuseum.org\u002Ftoah\u002Fhd\u002Furrg\u002Fhd_urrg.htm#:~:text=In%201922%2C%20C.,of%20gold%20and%20precious%20stones.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efrom surrounding graves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But as Ashraf noted, \"With only 30% of the site excavated, much more remains to be discovered.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv0f22"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven so, the ziggurat is important enough to have been used as a pawn in modern wartimes. During the Gulf War in 1991, Saddam Hussein \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Farchives\u002Fla-xpm-1991-02-14-mn-1799-story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eparked two of his MiG fighter jets alongside it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in hopes that the historical site would keep the United States and other foreign nations from attacking his planes. Unfortunately, the ziggurat still suffered minor damage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2021, Iraq opened its doors to an array of Western countries, and tourism has been emerging slowly (though many governments still advise against travel here). Janet Newenham, an Irish travel journalist and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjanetsjourneys.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJanet's Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visited Iraq shortly after the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgds.gov.iq\u002Firaq-lifts-requirement-to-obtain-pre-arrival-visas-for-citizens-of-30-countries\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisa-on-arrival programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E launched. Since then, she has led several group tours to the region. \"On our first trip in July 2021, we saw not one other tourist,\" she said. \"By the time my April 2022 trip came around, we would often meet small groups of adventurous tourists… we never saw more than four or five other tourists at a time though. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet nearly every day, Ashraf braves the heat to help tourists understand the importance of the ziggurat. He said he taught himself English by \"studying the dictionary\" and when most of his foreign visitors were Japanese, he set to work learning snippets of Japanese as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I carefully climbed the grand staircase leading to the flat upper floor, I could still see bits of bitumen between the broken bricks. I also spotted a small, inscribed brick that recognises Saddam Hussein for his partial reconstruction of the monument in 1980. The upper terraces and the colourful temple have long been destroyed and lost to time. But across the nearly flat expanse of desert, I could see small mounds scattered throughout the area waiting to be excavated, no doubt hiding a world of treasures yet to be discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-23T10:22:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Iraq's answer to the pyramids","headlineShort":"Iraq's answer to the pyramids","image":["p0cv0dsc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.9627594","longitude":"46.1009891","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cv0dsc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220530-jantar-mantar-indias-mysterious-gateway-to-the-stars"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur – an incredibly well-preserved engineering achievement that towers over the ruins of an important ancient city.","summaryShort":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-22T22:23:43.535237Z","entity":"article","guid":"af1fbae4-806e-4959-8180-36cfdc3b991d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-23T14:39:36.95864Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","_id":"62df806743d9f4586c232f99","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen German archaeologist Klaus Schmidt first began excavating on a Turkish mountaintop 25 years ago, he was convinced the buildings he uncovered were unusual, even unique.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAtop a limestone plateau near Urfa called Gobekli Tepe, Turkish for \"Belly Hill\", Schmidt discovered more than 20 circular stone enclosures. The largest was 20m across, a circle of stone with two elaborately carved pillars 5.5m tall at its centre. The carved stone pillars – eerie, stylised human figures with folded hands and fox-pelt belts – weighed up to 10 tons. Carving and erecting them must have been a tremendous technical challenge for people who hadn't yet domesticated animals or invented pottery, let alone metal tools. The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures, built not for shelter but for some other purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a decade of work, Schmidt reached a remarkable conclusion. When I visited his dig house in Urfa's old town in 2007, Schmidt – then working for the German Archaeological Institute – told me Gobekli Tepe could help rewrite the story of civilisation by explaining the reason humans started farming and began living in permanent settlements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stone tools and other evidence Schmidt and his team found at the site showed that the circular enclosures had been built by hunter-gatherers, living off the land the way humans had since before the last Ice Age. Tens of thousands of animal bones that were uncovered were from wild species, and there was no evidence of domesticated grains or other plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought these hunter-gatherers had come together 11,500 years ago to carve Gobekli Tepe's T-shaped pillars with stone tools, using the limestone bedrock of the hill beneath their feet as a quarry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site and hilltop near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarving and moving the pillars would have been a tremendous task, but perhaps not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The pillars are carved from the natural limestone layers of the hill's bedrock. Limestone is soft enough to work with the flint or even wood tools available at the time, given practice and patience. And because the hill's limestone formations were horizontal layers between 0.6m and 1.5m thick, archaeologists working at the site believe ancient builders just had to cut away the excess from the sides, rather than from underneath as well. Once a pillar was carved out, they then shifted it a few hundred metres across the hilltop, using rope, log beams and ample manpower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious sercret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETurkey's mysterious portal to the universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought that small, nomadic bands from across the region were motivated by their beliefs to join forces on the hilltop for periodic building projects, hold great feasts and then scatter again. The site, Schmidt argued, was a ritual centre, perhaps some sort of burial or death cult complex, rather than a settlement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was a big claim. Archaeologists had long thought complex ritual and organised religion were luxuries that societies developed only once they began domesticating crops and animals, a transition known as the Neolithic. Once they had a food surplus, the thinking went, they could devote their extra resources to rituals and monuments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGobekli Tepe, Schmidt told me, turned that timeline upside down. The stone tools at the site, backed up by radiocarbon dates, placed it firmly in the pre-Neolithic era. More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals. And Schmidt didn't think anyone lived at the site full-time. He called it a \"cathedral on a hill\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf that was true, it showed that complex ritual and social organisation actually came before settlement and agriculture. Over the course of 1,000 years, the demands of gathering nomadic bands together in one place to carve and move huge T-pillars and build the circular enclosures prompted people to take the next step: to regularly host large gatherings, people needed to make food supplies more predictable and dependable by domesticating plants and animals. Ritual and religion, it seemed, launched the Neolithic Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, I drove with Schmidt to the hilltop before dawn. I wandered, mystified and awestruck, among the pillars as Schmidt, his head wrapped in a white cloth to protect it from the blazing sun, oversaw a small team of German archaeologists and workers from the small village down the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESchmidt had just published his first reports on Gobekli Tepe the year before, setting the small world of Neolithic archaeology experts abuzz. But the site still had a sleepy, forgotten feel, with excavation areas covered by makeshift corrugated steel roofs and potholed dirt roads winding up to the mountaintop dig site from the valley below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt's take on the site's striking T-pillars and large, round \"special buildings\" captivated colleagues and journalists when they were first published in the mid-2000s. Breathless media reports called the site the birthplace of religion; the German magazine Der Spiegel compared the fertile grasslands around the site to the Garden of Eden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoon, people from around the world were flocking to see Gobekli Tepe for themselves. Within a decade, the hilltop was totally transformed. Until the civil war in nearby Syria disrupted tourism in the region in 2012, work on the site often slowed to a crawl as busloads of curious tourists crowded around open excavation trenches to see what some were calling the world's first temple and made it impossible to manoeuvre wheelbarrows on the narrow paths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past five years, the mountaintop on the outskirts of Urfa has been reshaped once again. Today, roads and car parks and a visitor's centre can accommodate curious travellers from around the world. In 2017, corrugated steel sheds were replaced by a state-of-the art, swooping fabric-and-steel shelter covering the central monumental buildings. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\"\u003EŞanlıurfa Archaeology and Mosaic Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built in 2015 in central Urfa, is one of Turkey's largest museums; it features a full-scale replica of the site's largest enclosure and its imposing T-pillars, allowing visitors to get a feel for the monumental pillars and examine their carvings up close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Gobekli Tepe was added to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1572\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage register\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and Turkish tourism officials declared 2019 the \"Year of Gobekli Tepe\", making the ancient site the face of its global promotion campaign. \"I still remember the site as a remote place on a mountaintop,\" said Jens Notroff, a German Archaeological Institute archaeologist who began working at the site as a student in the mid-2000s. \"It's changed completely.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Detail of animal sculpture at the Göbekli Tepe archaeological site","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt, who died in 2014, didn't live to see the site's transformation from dusty mountaintop dig to major tourist attraction. But his discoveries there spurred global interest in the Neolithic transition – and in the last few years, new discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site itself. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWork on foundations needed to support the site's swooping fabric canopy required archaeologists to dig deeper that Schmidt ever had. Under the direction of Schmidt's successor, Lee Clare, a German Archaeological Institute team dug several \"keyhole\" trenches down to the site's bedrock, several metres below the floors of the large buildings. \"We had a unique chance,\" Clare said, \"to go look in the lowest layers and deposits of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"New discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhat Clare and his colleagues found may rewrite prehistory yet again. The digs revealed evidence of houses and year-round settlement, suggesting that Gobekli Tepe wasn't an isolated temple visited on special occasions but a rather a thriving village with large special buildings at its centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe team also identified a large cistern and channels for collecting rainwater, key to supporting a settlement on the dry mountaintop, and thousands of grinding tools for processing grain for cooking porridge and brewing beer. \"Gobekli Tepe is still a unique, special site, but the new insights fit better with what we know from other sites,\" Clare said. \"It was a fully-fledged settlement with permanent occupation. It's changed our whole understanding of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003ETurkish archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E working in the rugged countryside around Urfa have identified at least a dozen other hill-top sites with similar – if smaller – T-pillars, dating from around the same time period. \"It's not a unique temple,\" said Austrian Archaeological Institute researcher Barbara Horejs, an expert on the Neolithic who was not part of the recent research efforts. \"That makes the story much more interesting and exciting.\" Turkish Culture and Tourism Minister Mehmet Nuri Ersoy went as far as saying that this area could be referred to as the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003Epyramids of south-east Turkey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERather than a centuries-long building project inspiring the transition to farming, Clare and others now think Gobekli Tepe was an attempt by hunter-gatherers clinging to their vanishing lifestyle as the world changed around them. Evidence from the surrounding region shows people at other sites were experimenting with domesticated animals and plants – a trend the people of \"Belly Hill\" might have been resisting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClare argues the site's stone carvings are an important clue. Elaborate carvings of foxes, leopards, serpents and vultures covering Gobekli Tepe's pillars and walls \"aren't animals you see every day,\" he said. \"They're more than just pictures, they're narratives, which are very important in keeping groups together and creating a shared identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I first wandered across the site more than 15 years ago, I remember a feeling of great distance. Gobekli Tepe was built 6,000 years before Stonehenge, and the exact meaning of its carvings – like the world the people there once inhabited – is impossible to fathom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat, of course, is part of the Gobekli Tepe's tremendous magnetism. As thousands of visitors marvel at a place most people had never heard of a decade ago, researchers will continue trying to understand why it was built in the first place. And each new discovery promises to change what we now know about the site and the story of human civilisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The new work isn't destroying Klaus Schmidt's thesis; it stands on his shoulders,\" said Horejs. \"There's been a huge gain of knowledge, in my view. The interpretation is changing, but that's what science is about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-16T21:51:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An immense mystery older than Stonehenge","headlineShort":"An immense mystery 11,000 years old","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.2232","longitude":"38.9224","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","summaryShort":"It has reshaped previous ideas on the story of civilisation","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-15T21:52:56.195374Z","entity":"article","guid":"da2379c5-f167-40ee-bf15-174c2b59c7e4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:32:33.662172Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave","_id":"62df80bd43d9f44500213ac4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An abandoned mine in Spain hides a sparkling treasure – the world's largest geode, a natural crystal phenomenon that has stunned scientists.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn abandoned silver mine in Pulpí, in Spain's south-eastern Almería Province, lies a treasure that's not made from any precious metal at all. Instead, what's hidden here is the world's largest geode – a natural crystal phenomenon that has stunned scientists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Mila Carretero, geologist and coordinator of the Pulpí Geode, explained, a geode is a cavity inside a rock that is covered with crystals. Sitting against a backdrop of oversized crystal spars, she broke open a tiny rock with tiny gems inside, to show a comparison. \"It's the same as the one I have behind me, only this one is a super-sized version,\" she said with a laugh as she pointed over her shoulder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pulpí Geode is eight metres wide, two metres high and two metres deep. \"When it comes to a geode, by definition, this is the biggest ever discovery,\" she noted, adding that Pulpí is not to be confused with another crystal marvel, the Naica Mine in Mexico, which has larger spars (15m long compared to Pulpí's two metres), but which is a cave lined with crystals rather than a geode. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe geode here in Spain was originally spotted by miners in the Mina Rica, a silver mine which operated from 1873 to 1969. But it wasn't until years later, in 1999, that geologists found it again and brought it to the world's attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When [the original miners] blasted this rock and found a geode, they probably got upset because they didn't like finding these crystals,\" said Carretero. \"It meant extra work to get rid of them. They weigh a lot and were not profitable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough scientists are still researching it, they believe the whole area was once underwater. At a certain point, volcanic activity fractured sedimentary rocks and filled them with hot fluids. When the fluids cooled, the crystals started forming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGeologists have found that the anhydrite (the mineral that formed the rocks) in Pulpí is from the time of the dinosaurs about 250 million years ago, but they are uncertain of the age of the gypsum crystals themselves because they contain very little impurities that can be dated. Their estimate is that the crystals \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livescience.com\u002Fpulpi-geode-history-revealed.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estarted growing less than 2 million years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The slower the crystal grows, the larger its size. And the more perfect the crystal is,\" said Carretero.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mine was \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.geodapulpi.es\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eopened to the public\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019, after some rubble was cleared and safety measures, such as a 42m emergency staircase, were installed. In the process, workers found items left behind by the original miners, including cigarettes, jackets, rubber sandals, beer bottles and scratches on the wall tallying their daily quotas. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 100,000 people have visited the geode so far, and Carretero's team is carefully monitoring temperature, carbon dioxide and humidity to ensure the crystals' safety. \"More than the carbon dioxide [from human interaction], the humidity is what can really harm the crystals,\" she said. \"Because if a layer [of moisture] coats the crystals, they tend to lose their transparency.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPulpí's crystals, however, remain remarkably transparent, and visitors and scientists alike continue to be awed by the natural phenomenon. \"I couldn't put into words what I felt when I saw it,\" said Carretero. \"It's indescribable because it gives us a sense of how small we are. Look at what nature has given us.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis video is part of BBC Reel's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fworld-of-wonder\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld of Wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E playlist.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-22T08:46:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's largest crystal cave","headlineShort":"A giant geode hidden in a Spanish mine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.3821943","longitude":"-1.7036962","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"-1.7036962","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An abandoned mine in Spain hides a sparkling treasure – the world's largest geode, a natural crystal phenomenon that has stunned scientists.","summaryShort":"The Pulpí Geode is eight metres wide, two metres high and two metres deep","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-21T20:00:20.45981Z","entity":"article","guid":"f6ae2e71-cf6d-414a-8c25-13b0a7475df0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-22T13:03:43.907742Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","_id":"62df7f4d43d9f45723732552","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret in its mysterious \"Gate to Hell\". But modern science has finally uncovered the truth behind the Roman myths.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Pamukkale in western Turkey, an enormous white rock formation towers over the surrounding plain. The gleaming mountain of petrified limestone cascades to the valley floor, creased with frozen stalactites and tessellated with hundreds of pools of sparkling turquoise water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese otherworldly formations are travertines, limestone cliffs slowly created over 400,000 years by the bubbling up of mineral springs. As the water flows down the hillside it degasses, leaving behind a vast deposit of bright white calcium carbonate that's almost 3km long and 160m high. This is not the only place where travertines occur – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F638\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHuanglong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in China and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fyell\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Fexplore-mammoth.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMammoth Hot Springs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Yellowstone National Park are other famous examples – but the ones at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190109-did-social-media-save-this-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPamukkale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are the largest and arguably the most magnificent in the world. They're one of the country's most popular visitor attractions, and are so spectacular that the Unesco World Heritage Site's name means \"cotton castle\" in Turkish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the pandemic hit, more than 2.5 million people a year made the journey here from Izmir or Istanbul, spilling out of tour buses at the top of the dazzling plateau and swarming across the landscape like ants on a gigantic mound of sugar before piling back on board and heading on to the beaches of Bodrum or the historic ruins of Ephesus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut visitors who simply dip their toes in the vivid mineral pools and take a selfie in front of the dripping natural columns before moving on are missing a trick. Because perched at the very top of Pamukkale's white crags sits an even more fascinating attraction: the ruins of the beautiful ancient city of Hierapolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHierapolis was founded by the Attalid kings of Pergamon at the end of the 2nd Century BC before being taken over by the Romans in 133 AD. Under Roman rule, it became a thriving spa town; by the 3rd Century, visitors were coming from all over the Empire to admire the landscape and bathe in the supposedly healing waters. The success of the city is still visible in its impressive arched entrance gate, its colonnaded main street and its beautifully restored amphitheatre, all built from the same local travertine that glows golden in the hot Turkish sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cascading blue and white travertine terrace formations in Pamukkale, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The thermal waters are likely one of the primary reasons for the city's foundation,\" said Dr Sarah Yeomans, an archaeologist at the University of Southern California who specialises in the Roman Empire. \"By the mid-2nd Century, Hierapolis would have been a beautiful, bustling spa-town with what I imagine was a more dynamic and diverse population than most, given the popularity of such places with visitors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Hierapolis was also known throughout the Roman world for another, more sinister reason. It was said to be the location of a \"Gate to Hell\", a portal to the underworld where the toxic breath of the three-headed hellhound Cerberus flowed out of the ground, claiming unsuspecting victims on behalf of his master, the god Pluto. A shrine – the Ploutonion – was built on the site, and pilgrims travelled from across the region to pay the priests of the temple to make sacrifices to Pluto on their behalf.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210405-the-enduring-allure-of-lost-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe enduring allure of lost cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180715-the-turkish-city-that-lives-for-breakfast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Turkish city that lives for breakfast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWriters of the time, including Pliny the Elder and the Greek geographer Strabo, described these sacrifices as a chilling spectacle. A priest would lead an animal, perhaps a sheep or a bull, into the shrine. As if by the hand of the god, the animal would instantly drop dead, while the priest would walk out alive. \"I threw in sparrows, and they immediately breathed their last and fell,\" wrote Strabo in Book 13 of his encyclopaedia Geography\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E clearly astonished by what he had just witnessed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen you visit the Ploutonion today it's hard to imagine these dramatic scenes being real. Now excavated and restored, it's a tranquil place: a rectangular enclosure filled with about 25cm of sparkling clear water topped with gently drifting mineral foam, and a small arched entrance on one side. Above it is stepped seating for spectators, and a replica statue of Pluto gazes benignly down into the arena. When I visited, I couldn't understand how this could be a place of death? Surely these are made-up stories, I thought. How could the priests survive while the animals die?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese were questions that also intrigued Hardy Pfanz, a volcano biologist from Germany's University of Duisburg-Essen who studies geogenic gases – gases given off during geological processes. \"When I read the descriptions from the ancient writers, I began wondering if there could be a scientific explanation,\" he said. \"I wondered, could this Gate to Hell be a volcanic vent?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ruins of the Plutonium shrine and Pluto statue at Hierapolis, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKeen to test his theory, Pfanz travelled to Hierapolis in 2013. \"We weren't sure what we would find. It could've been made up, could've been nothing,\" he laughed. \"We certainly weren't expecting to get an answer so quickly.\" But get an answer he did, almost immediately. \"We saw dozens of dead creatures around the entrance: mice, sparrows, blackbirds, many beetles, wasps and other insects. So, we knew right away that the stories were true.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Pfanz tested the air around the vent with a portable gas analyser he discovered the reason: toxic levels of carbon dioxide. Normal air contains just 0.04% CO2 but Pfanz was shocked to discover that the concentration around the shrine reached a staggering 80%. \"Just a few minutes exposure to 10% carbon dioxide can kill you,\" he said, \"so the levels here are really deadly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese ultra-high levels of carbon dioxide are caused by the same geological system that created the area's hot springs and dramatic travertine terraces. Hierapolis is built on the Pamukkale fault, a 35km-long active tectonic fault zone where cracks in the Earth's crust allow mineral-rich water and deadly gases to escape to the surface. One of them runs directly under the city centre and into the Ploutonion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Almost certainly the choice of the Ploutonion's location was directly related to the seismic gas vents that exist here,\" said Yeomans. \"Given that the underworld and the deities and myths associated with it were a significant part of their religious ethos, it makes sense that they would construct temples and shrines in places that most evoked the world that they believed lay beneath their feet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut such proximity to the forces of nature came at a price: an active fault zone also causes earthquakes, which levelled the city in 17 AD, 60 AD, and again in the 17th and 14th Centuries. Eventually, Hierapolis was abandoned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People bathing in the waters of Cleopatra's Pool natural spring pool in Hierapolis","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Pfanz was still mystified by one thing: if this area is so deadly, why did the priests in the Ploutonion not die too? He returned to Hierapolis the following year and this time he studied the concentrations of the gas at different times of the day. \"We noticed that during the day, when it's warm and sunny, the carbon dioxide quickly dissipates,\" he said. \"But because carbon dioxide is heavier than air, at night when it's cooler it pools in the arena, creating a lethal lake of gas at ground level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis conclusion: the animals, with their noses close to the ground, quickly suffocated in this toxic cloud, but the priests, standing taller, were breathing much lower levels of CO2 and were able to survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I realised we had solved this ancient mystery; it was a really fantastic feeling","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas this spectacle a massive money-making confidence trick, or did the priests really believe they were communicating with the gods? \"There's no question that the Ploutonion in Hierapolis was big business,\" said Yeomans, \"but it's hard to be sure if the priests really understood what was going on. Some may well have attributed their survival to the favour of the divine, while others may have regarded it as a natural – if enigmatic – phenomenon that could be observed and, at least to some extent, predicted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday the Ploutonion is bricked up, and a walkway has recently been built around the site to allow visitors a chance to view this legendary arena without getting too close to the source of the deadly gas. But even with these modern trimmings, it's thrilling to be able to walk in the footsteps of the Greek and Roman pilgrims and look down on the place where mythology and reality meet; where the ancient gods reached out and touched the lives of the people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I first recognised that the legendary breath of Cerberus is actually carbon dioxide, I was standing right in front of the archway,\" said Pfanz. \"In that moment, I realised we had solved this ancient mystery; it was a really fantastic feeling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Petrified limestone formations and turquoise water at Pamukkale, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural phenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-29T00:13:23.831Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Turkey's mysterious 'portal to the underworld'","headlineShort":"An ancient Roman mystery solved","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Latrine and Frontinus gate of Hierapolis, Turkey","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.9266","longitude":"29.1274","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Latrine and Frontinus gate of Hierapolis, Turkey","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret in its mysterious \"Gate to Hell\". But modern science has finally uncovered the truth behind the Roman myths.","summaryShort":"The beautiful ancient city of Hierapolis has long hidden a poisonous secret","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-29T00:19:26.157849Z","entity":"article","guid":"83dff587-9874-4947-b174-2353b226d764","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:30:01.140071Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","_id":"62f42ab743d9f460d03e0282","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgeena-truman"],"bodyIntro":"More than 85m beneath the famous fairy chimneys of Cappadocia lies a massive subterranean city that was in near-constant use for thousands of years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EViolent gusts whipped loose soil into the air as I hiked through Cappadocia's Love Valley. Pink- and yellow-hued hillsides coloured the rolling landscape scarred with deep red canyons, and chimneystack rock formations loomed in the distance. It was arid, hot, windy and devastatingly beautiful. Millennia ago, this volatile, volcanic environment naturally sculpted the spires surrounding me into their conical, mushroom-capped shapes, which now draw millions of visitors to hike or hot-air balloon in the central Turkish region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut beneath Cappadocia's crumbling surface, a marvel of equally gargantuan proportions lay hidden away for centuries; a subterranean city that could conceal the whereabouts of up to 20,000 inhabitants for months at a time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient city of Elengubu, known today as Derinkuyu, burrows more than 85m below the Earth's surface, encompassing 18 levels of tunnels. The largest excavated underground city in the world, it was in near-constant use for thousands of years, changing hands from the Phrygians to the Persians to the Christians of the Byzantine Era. It was finally abandoned in the 1920s by the Cappadocian Greeks when they faced defeat during the Greco-Turkish war and fled abruptly en masse to Greece. Not only do its cave-like rooms stretch on for hundreds of miles, but it's thought the more than 200 small, separate underground cities that have also been discovered in the region may be connected to these tunnels, creating a massive subterranean network.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to my guide, Suleman, Derinkuyu was only \"rediscovered\" in 1963 by an anonymous local who kept losing his chickens. While he was renovating his home, the poultry would disappear into a small crevasse created during the remodel, never to be seen again. Upon closer investigation and some digging, the Turk unearthed a dark passageway. It was the first of more than 600 entrances found within private homes leading to the subterrestrial city of Derinkuyu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExcavation began immediately, revealing a tangled network of underground dwellings, dry food storage, cattle stables, schools, wineries and even a chapel. It was an entire civilisation tucked safely underground. The cave city was soon spelunked by thousands of Türkiye's least claustrophobic tourists and, in 1985, the region was added to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F357\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage list.\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0crx666"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe city's exact date of construction remains contested, but Anabasis, written by Xenophon of Athens circa 370 BCE, is the oldest written work that seems to reference Derinkuyu. In the book, he mentions Anatolian people, in or near the region of Cappadocia, living underground in excavated homes rather than the more popular cliffside cave-dwellings that are well known in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Andrea De Giorgi, associate professor of classical studies at Florida State University, Cappadocia is uniquely suited to this kind of underground construction due to the lack of water in the soil and its malleable, easily mouldable rock. \"The geomorphology of the region is conducive to the digging of underground spaces,\" he said, explaining that the local tuff rock would have been fairly easy to carve with simple tools like shovels and pickaxes. This same pyroclastic material was naturally forged into the fairy-tale chimneys and phallic spires jutting from the earth above ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Cappadocia is uniquely suited to this kind of underground construction due to the lack of water in the soil and its malleable, easily mouldable rock","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut whom to credit with Derinkuyu's creation remains a partial mystery. The groundwork for the sprawling network of subterranean caves is often attributed to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FHittite\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Hittites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"who may have excavated the first few levels in the rock when they came under attack from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FPhrygia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Phrygians\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around 1200 BCE\", according to A Bertini, an expert in Mediterranean cave dwellings, in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks?id=YuQZcdbG0HQC&pg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehis essay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on regional cave architecture. Adding weight to this hypothesis, Hittite artefacts were found inside Derinkuyu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the bulk of the city was likely built by the Phrygians, highly skilled Iron-age architects who had the means to construct elaborate underground facilities. \"The Phrygians were one of Anatolia's most prominent early empires,\" explained De Giorgi. \"They developed across western Anatolia around the end of the first millennium BCE and had a bent for monumentalising rock formations and creating remarkable rock-cut facades. Though elusive, their kingdom spread to include most of western and central Anatolia, including the area of Derinkuyu.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0crx653"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOriginally, Derinkuyu was likely used for the storage of goods, but its primary purpose was as a temporary haven from foreign invaders, with Cappadocia seeing a constant flux of dominant empires throughout the centuries. \"The succession of empires and their impact on the landscapes of Anatolia explain the recourse to underground shelters like Derinkuyu,\" De Giorgi explained. \"It was at the time of the [7th-Century] Islamic raids [on the predominantly Christian Byzantine Empire], however, that these dwellings were used to the fullest.\" While the Phrygians, Persians and Seljuks, among others, all inhabited the region and expanded upon the underground city in subsequent centuries, Derinkuyu's population swelled to its peak during the Byzantine Era, with nearly 20,000 residents living underground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, you can experience the harrowing reality of life underground for just 60 Turkish lira (£2.80). As I descended into the musty, narrow tunnels, the walls blackened with soot from centuries of torch lighting, the unfamiliar sensation of claustrophobia began to set in. However, the ingenuity of the various empires that expanded upon Derinkuyu soon became apparent. Intentionally narrow, short hallways forced visitors to navigate the labyrinth of corridors and dwellings while stooped over and single file – obviously an inopportune position for intruders. Dimly lit by lamplight, half-ton circular boulders blocked doors between each of the 18 levels and were only moveable from the inside. Small, perfectly round holes in the centre of these hefty doors would have allowed residents to spear invaders while maintaining a secure perimeter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Life underground was probably very difficult,\" my guide Suleman added. \"The residents relieved themselves in sealed clay jars, lived by torchlight and disposed of dead bodies in [designated] areas.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach level of the city was carefully engineered for specific uses. Livestock was kept in stables nearest to the surface to reduce the smell and toxic gases produced by cattle, as well as provide a warm layer of living insulation for the cold months. The inner layers of the city contained dwellings, cellars, schools and meeting spaces. Identifiable by its unique barrel-vaulted ceilings, a traditional Byzantine missionary school, complete with adjacent rooms for study, is located on the second floor. According to De Giorgi, \"the evidence for winemaking is grounded in the presence of cellars, vats for pressing and amphoras [tall, two-handled jars with a narrow neck].\" These specialised rooms indicate that inhabitants of Derinkuyu were prepared to spend months beneath the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0crx64v"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut most impressive is a complex ventilation system and protected well that would have supplied the entire city with fresh air and clean water. In fact, it's thought that the early construction of Derinkuyu centred around these two essential elements. More than 50 ventilation shafts, which allowed for natural airflow between the city's many dwellings and hallways, were distributed throughout the city to avoid a potentially fatal attack on their air supply. The well was dug more than 55m deep and could be easily cut off from below by the city inhabitants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Derinkuyu's construction was indeed ingenious, it's not the only underground city in Cappadocia. At 445 sq km, it's merely the largest of the 200 and counting underground cities beneath the Anatolian Plains. More than 40 of these smaller cities are three or more levels deep beneath the surface. Many are connected to Derinkuyu via carefully dug tunnels, some stretching as long as 9km. All of them are equipped with emergency escape routes in case an immediate return to the surface was necessary. But Cappadocia's subterranean secrets have not yet all been excavated. In 2014, a new and potentially even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-38758559\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elarger underground city was unearthed beneath the Nevsehir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E region\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDerinkuyu's living story came to a close in 1923 when the Cappadocian Greeks evacuated. More than 2,000 years after the city's likely creation, Derinkuyu was abandoned for the last time. Its existence was all but forgotten to the modern world until some errant chickens brought the subterranean city back into the light.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-11T10:59:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Turkey's underground city of 20,000 people","headlineShort":"An underground city of 20,000 people","image":["p0crx66n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.3745","longitude":"34.7334","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0crx66n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220721-the-worlds-largest-crystal-cave","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"More than 85m beneath the famous fairy chimneys of Cappadocia lies a massive subterranean city that was in near-constant use for thousands of years.","summaryShort":"It remained a secret to outsiders until the 1960s","tag":["tag\u002Funderground-spaces","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-10T22:01:05.983541Z","entity":"article","guid":"f62067f9-d42e-4014-ad5a-e53ef51c613a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-18T03:28:56.136687Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fturkey","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_turkey_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder","_id":"62f2ebb943d9f457377246d7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On the shores of Lake Garda, Italian chef Riccardo Camanini is bringing ancient Italian recipes – like cacio e pepe – into the modern day at his restaurant Lido 84.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA female pig's bladder is preferable to a male pig's bladder when cooking \u003Cem\u003Erigatoni cacio e pepe en vessie \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(cheese and pepper rigatoni pasta cooked inside a pig's bladder) – the signature dish of chef Riccardo Camanini. This is due to the \"greater elasticity\", Camanini explained. The use of a bladder as a cooking vessel means that the pasta is steamed rather than boiled, and is fully immersed in the other ingredients – the pecorino cheese, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil – while it's cooking. But it also means that the dish never tastes the same twice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The bladder is the constant imperfection,\" Camanini said. \"Even if we just use female bladders, 35cm horizontal and 41cm vertical [the average size bladder Camanini uses], they're never the same. One might be deeper, or more elastic, or one may be six months older than another. The dish lives on that imperfection.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore serving the cacio e pepe, the pasta-filled bladder is brought to the guest's table in a golden dish. It's then cut open from bottom to top to reveal the creamy rigatoni inside and send the scent of the pecorino wafting through the air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne piece of rigatoni from each batch of pasta always goes back to the kitchen for Camanini to taste. \"This is because it's always different,\" Camanini said. \"And there's a joy in \u003Cem\u003Ela repetition du geste\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the repetition of a gesture). It's something which keeps the passion in an artisan job alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECamanini is the head chef and co-owner, along with his brother Giancarlo, of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristorantelido84.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELido 84\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The restaurant opened in 2014 and earned a Michelin star six months later. As recently as July 2022, it was ranked the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Flist\u002F1-50\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eeighth best restaurant in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list by a panel of culinary experts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe restaurant sits on an idyllic inlet on Lake Garda, behind which lemon, olive, camphor and cypress trees layer into the mountains that steeply rise to the rugged peak of Monte Lavino. Lido 84's relaxed patio looks out over the lake, all the way to the region of Veneto. Inside, floor-to-ceiling windows treat guests to the same view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECacio e pepe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is \"one of the most traditional pastas from Rome\", Camanini said. This was a key consideration when he was creating his version of the dish, and it's part of a wider trend in contemporary Italian cuisine that is taking Italian cuisine back to its roots. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is a new generation of Italian chefs who want to bring their heritage to their cuisine, and Riccardo Camanini is part of that,\" said Eleanora Cozzella, author of Pasta Revolution and an academy chair at The World's 50 Best Restaurants. \"Dry pasta has always been popular in Italy, but it wasn't used in haute cuisine until 12-15 years ago. It was something to feed the family – a poor ingredient. Now there is pride in it. There's a pasta revolution; a new knowledge of the history, of the production process and of different ways to cook it; in wine, tea or stock for example – or in a bladder.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe inspiration for Riccardo Camanini to cook the pasta in a pig's bladder originally came from Apicius, an ancient Roman text that includes the use of bladders in a variety of its (often essay-length) recipes. \"That book influenced me a lot,\" Camanini said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECooking \u003Cem\u003Een vessie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means that the chef's work is done not at the stove, but on the chopping board. Once the ingredients are in the bladder and it's on the boil it's out of Camanini's hands. \"The end result is more pungent and acidic,\" said Cozzella.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECamanini first witnessed cooking en vessie while working with Jean Louis Nomicos, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlan Ducasse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's right-hand man, in Paris in the '90s. \"I had the chance to make, and taste, \u003Cem\u003Ela \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Evolaille de Bresse en vessie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" he said. \"It's a French plate from the 18th Century. The chef put a chicken into a pig's bladder – with truffle, foie gras, le Madère (Madeira wine) and other ingredients.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"The idea was to recreate one of Italy's most iconic dishes – pasta.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith his cacio e pepe, Camanini wanted to pay homage to this technique, rooted in Italian heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"So, the idea was to recreate one of Italy's most iconic dishes – pasta,\" he said. \"As an Italian, I represent pasta, and so I saw a challenge in creating a recipe from what Mr Apicius wrote.\" Dry pasta wouldn't have existed when Apicius lived, Camanini added. \"It was only after 1200 CE, when commerce started from Sicily, that it became necessary,\" he said. \"But it was fun to imagine Apicius cooking this dish.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe biggest difference between Camanini's cacio e pepe and la volaille de Bresse en vessie is the cost of the ingredients. Whereas the latter is an incredibly expensive dish, cacio e pepe is quite the opposite. It's a humble meal, with origins in the huts of shepherds outside Rome. Camanini has \"brought a nobility to this traditional dish\", said Cozzella, and crucially, a focus on the quality of those core ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELido 84's pecorino cheese comes from the coastal plain of Maremma Laziale in the region of Lazio. Their grey salt comes from Guérande, in France's Pays de la Loire region. The black pepper is Sarawak, often considered among the finest in the world, from Borneo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Eating the cacio e pepe is like a story, or a poem,\" said Camanini. \"We are touched by these artisan suppliers we meet and their passion, and our food becomes a story we want to share.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECamini does not believe that a signature dish defines a chef. \"I love each of my sons equally,\" he said of the options on his menu. But in many ways, his cacio e pepe en vessie – simple yet complex, indulgent yet sophisticated and deeply artisanal – describes the story of his life-long relationship to food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECamanini was born in Sovere, near the lush Lake Iseo, a lesser-visited lake two-hour's drive from Lake Garda. \"We didn't have roots in gastronomy,\" said Camanini, \"but we did have roots in agriculture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom an early age, Camanini learned the importance of homegrown produce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every year on 2 January, our family of 12-15 people would sit down to eat \u003Cem\u003Eosso di maiale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pork bones),\" he recalled. \"Each family would have one or two pigs which would be killed at the start of November to produce salami, after the first \u003Cem\u003Enebbia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fog) of winter or autumn.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rest of the pig was also put to use – Camanini's uncle and grandfather would salt the bones and preserve them for a month, later boiling and cooking them with the skin, tail, snout and ear of the pig. \"I was the only cousin who would eat it, with potatoes and spinach,\" Camanini laughed. \"But food was important to us as a family, particularly when we all came together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the age of 17, Camanini was working in the kitchen of the legendary Italian Gualtiero Marchesi, the first Italian chef to be awarded three Michelin stars, at his restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.relaischateaux.com\u002Fus\u002Fitaly\u002Frestaurant\u002Fleonefelice-lombardia-erbusco\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlbereta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Erbusco. \"I discovered my passion there,\" he said. He would later further that passion under Jean Louis Nomicos, Ducasse's protégé, known for his elegant French cuisine in Paris, which he describes as \"Hollywood for gastronomy\". Camanini would only leave when he was offered the role of head chef at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.villafiordaliso.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVilla Fiordaliso\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Lake Garda at 24. He would spend almost two decades there before opening his own restaurant nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMarialuisa Iannuzzi is a food critic and journalist at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.identitagolose.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIdentitá Golose\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Italian cuisine magazine well known for their annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.identitagolose.com\u002Fsito\u002Fen\u002F406\u002Fcongresso-identita-milano.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Chef Congress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which recently hosted Camanini as a speaker.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was this period of pure fermentation, when Camanini was studying books, and going to France for apprenticeships whenever he had time off, in the winter,\" Iannuzzi said. \"When he opened Lido 84, that's when he really emerged. That's the moment when he started to put into practice everything he had learned – this mix of history and all of his own experiences and studies. When you see a dish by Camanini on the plate, it seems comprehensible – but when you taste it, it's often completely different from what you expect. The complexity is in the taste and in the technique.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Giancarlo and Riccardo Camanini, opening a restaurant had been a long-term dream. \"Then one day, in 2013, I received a call from a supplier in Gardone Riviera, who said Lido 84 was up for sale. I remembered the beauty of the place well,\" Camanini said. They opened on 21 March 2014.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Every time you go to Lido 84, you'll get something different\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe eight years since have been a whirlwind of awards and acclaim. Ducasse described Camanini's \u003Cem\u003Espaghettoni\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with butter and yeast as the best pasta he'd ever tasted. His \"84 hours and 11 minutes of Pastasciutta\", pasta cooked for 84 hours but remaining al dente, is a revelation. \"It's this focus on the ingredient, seeing the potential in a technique and always taking it to another level, that makes his cooking so interesting,\" said Iannuzzi. \"Every time you go to Lido 84, you'll get something different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis most famous dish remains the cacio e pepe en vessie, which has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=ZfXZHSg_KK4&feature=emb_title\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edrawn international attention\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe dish harks back to his family traditions in Serone, draws on time spent in the kitchens of the world's best chefs in Paris, and was born from Roman heritage. At Lido 84, Riccardo Caminini is bringing pasta, and Italian cooking, into the era of modern cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECacio e Pepe en Vessie\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EBy Riccardo Camanini (Lido 84)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 dehydrated pig's bladder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E300g of rigatoni pasta (Camanini recommends using \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.felicetti.it\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EFelicetti\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which won't disintegrate during the cooking process)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E135g pecorino (aged black rind variety), grated\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E90g extra virgin olive oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3g black pepper, freshly cracked\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E12g salt (Camanini uses \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leguerandais.fr\u002Fen\u002Fgu%C3%A9rande-salt\u002Fhistory-gu%C3%A9rande-salt\"\u003EGuérande\u003C\u002Fa\u003E)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESoak the dehydrated pig's bladder in cold water for about 10 days, changing the water daily.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWhen the bladder is adequately hydrated, insert the other ingredients into it using a funnel, then firmly secure the bladder opening with kitchen twine.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECook the stuffed bladder in a large pan of boiling water, being sure to keep it submerged and shaking it occasionally to mix the pasta inside. Cook for 30 minutes.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EServe in front of guests by cutting open the bladder with a sharp knife and spooning the rigatoni onto plates.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-10T10:16:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Cacio e pepe en vessie: A new (old) twist on cacio e pepe","headlineShort":"The 'pasta revolution' sweeping Italy","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.6251592","longitude":"10.5733779","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On the shores of Lake Garda, Italian chef Riccardo Camanini is bringing ancient Italian recipes – like cacio e pepe – into the modern day at his restaurant Lido 84.","summaryShort":"It's part of a wider trend taking Italian cuisine back to its roots","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-09T23:20:06.89003Z","entity":"article","guid":"f84fcb3c-95b6-419f-b8de-fa3a7eb7f0fd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-10T16:18:53.990202Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta","_id":"62df81d543d9f45749671ec6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Known as the ‘Città della Pasta’ (City of Pasta), the sleepy coastal town of Gragnano in Italy's Campania region became famous in the late 1700s for its ‘white gold’, or macaroni.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a sea breeze blew in from the Gulf of Naples, small, gold-coloured dust-devils slowly sprouted along the factory rooftop, spiralling their way east toward Mount Vesuvius with the precision of ballerinas pirouetting across a stage floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Gragnano, a town of 29,000 inhabitants located 30km south-east of Naples in Italy’s Campania region, the wind strikes like a bell toll, rhythmically throughout the day. Residents initially thought the breeze was ‘Le Mistral’, a cool, dry wind that blows through Provence into the Mediterranean. They were half right. While the north-westerly wind goes by the same name – and is just as defining a feature in southern Italy as southern France – this Mistral (or Marino, as locals call it) blows the opposite way, bringing humidity and minerals from the sea into the streets of Gragnano.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You could produce and dry pasta every day because of the predictability of this wind blowing inside the village into the valley,” said Giuseppe Di Martino, CEO and third-generation\u003Cem\u003E pastaio\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or pasta maker, at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dimartinodolcegabbana.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPastificio Di Martino\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of three major pasta factories in Gragnano.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKnown as the ‘Città della Pasta’ (City of Pasta), Gragnano became famous for its ‘white gold’, or macaroni, when it switched from primarily making silk in the late 1700s when silkworms suddenly started dying of a pest invasion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe perfect pasta dish Sardinians refuse to share\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180130-macaroni-cheeses-mysterious-origins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMacaroni cheese’s mysterious origins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe city’s dried pasta-making tradition dates back much further, though, according to professor and historian Giuseppe Di Massa, president of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.centroculturalegragnano.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECentro di Cultura e Storia di Gragnano e Monti Lattari Alfonso Maria Di Nola\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Centre for Culture and History of Gragnano and the Lattari Mountains), who cites documents dating to the 1200s that speak of the production of \u003Cem\u003Eseccata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or dried pasta. Around this same time, the personal doctor of King William II of Sicily, Giovanni Ferrario, who was also a professor at a medical school in Salerno, Italy, proclaimed the benefits of Gragnano’s dry pasta, advising patients with typhoid fever to eat al dente \u003Cem\u003Evermiculos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the predecessor to vermicelli, a long pasta slightly thicker than spaghetti.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFresh pasta, a simple blend of wheat flour and water bound together by eggs, is more common in the regions of Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto, where the dough is pressed through rollers to form tagliatelle or tortellini. Dry pasta, meanwhile, only requires two ingredients: water and durum wheat semolina, which is extruded through traditional bronze dies that provide a coarse texture to the final product, giving the pasta the capacity to soak up more sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Here, in Gragnano, we are much more addicted to dry pasta,” explained Nunzia Riccio, food technologist and quality control manager at Pastificio Di Martino, as we toured the factory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom the 360-degree vantage point on the top of the Pastificio Di Martino building, where semolina dust slips up from the vents forming the dust devils darting across the floor, it’s easy to see how Gragnano is positioned to be a natural pasta-making factory. The city is encased by mountains on three sides and the sea on the other, creating a rain shadow effect ideal for drying pasta slowly in the street over days as marine breezes blow in from the coast. The buildings are staggered in a way so that the moist wind, which blows in several times a day, provides natural ventilation by forming a tunnel along the town’s ancient main thoroughfare, Via Roma, where the majority of factories were built. If it wasn’t for the faint semolina powder rising into the air, you wouldn’t guess this sleepy coastal town was once one of the richest in the region in terms of pasta production.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In the past, almost every family in Gragnano produced pasta,” Riccio said. “This has been an ancient tradition for over 250 years, with ‘white gold’ serving as the economy of the city.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In the past, almost every family in Gragnano produced pasta","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 19th Century, Gragnano was one of the famous stopovers on the Grand Tour, when wealthy Europeans would complete their cultural education with a trip to study Europe’s ancient civilisations in Greece and Italy, checking off sites like the Parthenon and Pompeii the same way a college backpacker does today. “When European nobles came to Gragnano, in order to prove they had done part of the Grand Tour, they would bring pasta back to say they’ve been to Gragnano,” Di Martino said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETableaux painted by French artists like Prosper Barbot and Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot (six of which hang in the Louvre in Paris) depict life in Gragnano during the height of its pasta production. Painters arrived with their easels in the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills), where 40 watermills ground fresh wheat from nearby Puglia with spring water streaming in from the Monti Lattari (the Lattari Mountains); or along the ancient, lava rock-lined Via Roma, where carts waited with crates to transport goods to market. Nearly 70% of Gragnano’s population at that time was involved in the pasta sector, and 100,000kg of pasta were produced each day. When King Ferdinand II of Naples visited the city in the mid-1800s, he was so impressed that he chose Gragnano’s pasta makers as his official suppliers for summer court at Quisisana, the former royal residence outside Castellammare di Stabia, 5km from Gragnano.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the mid-19th Century, the city's dry pasta was so popular that the municipality of Gragnano started tearing down old buildings to make way for dozens of family-run factories that dried pasta on river reeds dangling like weeping willow branches outside their front door.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The municipality allowed pasta factories to occupy the space out front with the \u003Cem\u003Espasa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pasta on the reeds), and, playing their part, pasta factories guaranteed the street’s cleanliness, since they didn’t want their pasta to be contaminated by dust,” Di Massa explained. “The way Gragnano pasta was dried was a real art, improved over centuries and passed down as a family secret generation after generation. Since no preservatives or antibacterials existed at that time, the conservation [of pasta] depended upon slow drying.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBuildings were positioned so they didn’t cast a shadow on neighbours and Via Roma was widened to make it easier for pasta makers to receive raw materials from the Valle dei Mulini, according to Di Martino. Gragnano was redesigned industrially to be ‘the pasta town’, since factories were exporting an enormous amount of pasta to the United States to the Italians who emigrated before the Wall Street Crash of 1929,” he said. “At the time, Gragnano’s pasta was more popular outside of Italy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the beginning of the 1900s, Gragnano counted nearly 120 pasta factories. The industrial boom, however, replaced the traditional method of al-fresco drying with mechanised motions in ventilated rooms, reducing the number of factories to 42. Factories grew in size but not in number. And while they were exporting pasta to new markets, mechanical tools replaced people, driving up unemployment. This was the catalyst that led many labourers to migrate to the US in search of work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The economic recovery was slow, and large industrial complexes were born in other parts of Italy, which forced many Gragnano pasta factories to close,” Di Massa said. “The surviving pasta factories rolled up their sleeves and realised that it was not possible to compete with the big pasta companies in terms of production and sales prices, so they all focused on the quality of their pasta.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The way Gragnano pasta was dried was a real art","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen exportation to the US was banned during World War One as part of the government’s plan for economic defence, the Italians in the US who had once imported the ‘white gold’ recreated the slow drying process with the help of machines to produce Italian-style pasta for the American market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne thing they couldn’t replicate, however, was the taste. The reason Gragnano’s pasta travelled so well – particularly on the six-week trip to the US – was the ingredients. “The water features low levels of minerals that doesn’t modify the flavour and taste of pasta, when compared to other areas,” Riccio explained, and the Italian durum wheat only travels three hours to Gragnano from Puglia, “so the semolina is fresh, and there is no time for mould or toxins to develop”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA little over a decade ago, Di Martino, the former president of Gragnano’s consortium of pasta makers, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.consorziogragnanocittadellapasta.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConsorzio Gragnano Città della Pasta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, was at London’s Borough Market for a conference hosted by the Canadian Wheat Board. \"They felt there was no future in biodiversity and local production, and the only way forward was globalisation,\" he said. Packages of Canadian wheat could be sold five or six times before landing on England's shores, which made him reflect on Gragnano's prime locale near Puglia. On the taxi ride to lunch, he started thinking of ways to preserve Gragnano’s ‘white gold’ with farmers in the fields of Gravina, who supply wheat to the town’s 14 factories – which account for 14% of the dry pasta exported out of Italy. “What I wanted was to have better quality of wheat that was connected to the land, to the people, and preserve this heritage,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGragnano’s first emblem was a bundle of wheat, a hand later added clutching the stems like spaghetti, which, according to Di Massa, symbolises the correlation between the earth and manual labour. “When you’re linked to a place, you’re transferring value back to the farmers,” Di Martino said in his opening speech at the 10th anniversary of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fevents\u002F295977937659841\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFesta del raccolto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Puglia’s annual pasta harvest festival, in June 2018. “Growing up in Gragnano around the factory, pasta becomes your toys, workers are your friends.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWheat here is referred to in vintages, similar to wine, and millers refer to themselves as famers – less mechanical, more terroir-driven. Provenance is more important than packaging in Gragnano, ensuring pasta is produced according to a set of strict regulations (which Di Martino helped draft in 2013 when the pasta was designated a Protected Geographical Indication by the EU) that all pastai must adhere to for their pasta to be considered ‘Pasta di Gragnano’, just as a winemaker follows certain codes in Champagne.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGragnano’s pasta may now be dried in sealed production lines, but the air blowing on the engines is the same that once dried the strands dangling along the city’s streets. As a way to pay homage to the city's pasta heritage, Gragnano’s pasta makers still set up stands and cook in the street each September during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F218368628210188\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFesta della Pasta di Gragnano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a festival that first kicked off after World War Two as a way to revive Gragnano's traditional pasta production and “act as an awareness tactic, so people knew what was happening behind closed factory doors,” Riccio said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you say Parma to an Italian, they’ll think Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese or ham; if you mention Gragnano, they’ll think pasta","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe city swells to five times its size as 100,000 people stream into town for the two-day event which sells nearly 5,000 plates of pasta per day. Big-name chefs set up live-cooking demos in the centre of town where the pasta historically hung in curtain-like strands along either side of the street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I love it, it’s like the whole town turns into a theatre,” Di Martino said, adding that the event is part of what helps keep Gragnano’s reputation as the city of ‘white gold’ alive today. “If you say Parma to an Italian, they’ll think Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese or ham; if you mention Gragnano, they’ll think pasta.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-07-29T18:19:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Italy’s city that revolutionised pasta","headlineShort":"The city that made pasta famous","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the ‘Città della Pasta’ (City of Pasta), the sleepy coastal town of Gragnano in Italy's Campania region became famous in the late 1700s for its ‘white gold’, or macaroni.","summaryShort":"It was even redesigned industrially to be ‘the pasta town’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:35:41.796672Z","entity":"article","guid":"0c2ff694-78ba-4dac-8ca7-f94a316a0169","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:53:40.546365Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","_id":"62df80fb43d9f444fc3d163e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road from Santa Teresa Gallura to Porto Cervo on Sardinia’s northern coast twists and turns with the painstaking precision I’d imagined goes into the handwoven needlepoint pillows I saw in the airport gift shop earlier that week. With every unforgiving turn, I was silently cursing the bottle of vermentino and swills of mirto – a berry-based liqueur made from the myrtle plant that flourishes in this region – from the night before. Handmade textiles, much like homemade food (and mirto), are a journey into the soul of a place, and I had no set itinerary except to taste the bounty of locally made pasta, pecorino and anything typically Sardo in between.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This pasta is special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I sat down for lunch at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteilpomodoro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIl Pomodoro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Restaurant, a casual outpost in Costa Smeralda known for serving up traditional Sardo fare, I was famished. I ordered the special, a handmade pasta called \u003Cem\u003Elorighittas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in a seafood broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few minutes later appeared a bowl of twisted golden ringlets so perfectly braided I’d swear even Rapunzel would be impressed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This pasta is special,” Agostino Demontis, maître of Pomodoro Restaurant at Cervo Hotel said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe pasta dish Sardinians refuse to share\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170906-the-last-surviving-sea-silk-seamstress\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last surviving sea silk seamstress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story behind lorighittas’ name, derived from the Sardinian word ‘\u003Cem\u003Elorigas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’, which loosely translates into ‘iron ring’ according to Demontis, varies depending on who you ask. Demontis, who’s from Segariu, a town not far from Morgongiori where lorighittas hail from, said the name comes from the iron rings that were once fixed to the walls of local houses to tether horses and oxen when men returned from the fields. However, there’s another meaning. Lorighittas also loosely translates to the Sardinian word for ‘ears’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sometimes lorighittas were prepared by unmarried young women and teenagers who would hang the pasta on their ears after drying them under the sun. [They’d] pretend that these were real jewels since not everyone had access to gold back in these days,” Demontis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo matter where you go in Sardinia, the landscape proves to be an easy distraction. You can’t help but feel bewitched by the occasional ancient ruins poking out of unkempt brush, or the sight of grazing sheep, more than 3.5 million I’m told, meandering along the road. It’s idyllic and wild, and changes from glittering coastal inlets to a more rugged inland landscape. The island’s history of isolation and subsequently \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20130503-sardinia-land-and-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebeing conquered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by pretty much every neighbouring Mediterranean stronghold over the centuries, has played an integral role in the culinary traditions and customs that have prevailed over the years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpecialties like \u003Cem\u003Efregola\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a doughy pellet-sized pasta; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emalloreddus alla Campidanese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with almost insect-looking shells that are made by hand-rolling dough on round reed baskets; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the rarest pasta-making traditions in the world today, have put Sardinian pasta dishes on the map. However, lorighittas have remained relatively unknown to the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets,” said Efisio Farris, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FSweet-Myrtle-Bitter-Honey-Mediterranean\u002Fdp\u002F0847829928\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eauthor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Sardinian chef based in Texas. “Nobody knows and nobody talks about it.” Born in Orosei on Sardinia’s eastern coast, Farris moved to the US in 1986.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When I started my restaurant in 1988 in Dallas, I wanted to introduce people to this food that I grew up with,” Farris said. “It’s also a tribute to my family, and it’s important to preserve these recipes and stories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter visiting Morgongiori with his aunt a couple years ago, Farris met two women who were making lorighittas by hand, and knew he’d stumbled on something that he had to bring back to the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was kind of worried, because of how labour-intensive lorighittas are to make – and each one is made by hand – that I needed to charge higher for the dish…,” he said. “But people recognised the quality and flavour of the dish, and it became an instant favourite in our restaurant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENestled in the foothills of Monte Arci in western Sardinia, the village of Morgongiori dates back thousands of years to the Nuragic era between 900 and 500BC. The first settlers arrived in the 6th Century BC in search of obsidian, a precious black stone derived from volcanic activity prominent in the region. Today, this town of around 800 inhabitants is perhaps best known for its handicraft rugs and tapestries, which are traditionally woven on ancient horizontal looms and are preserved in the village’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.morgongiori.eu\u002Findex.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=28&Itemid=139\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo Vivente dell’Arte Tessile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The second most recognised craft, however, is lorighittas, listed as endangered by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Florighittas\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food’s Ark of Taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Lorighittas are considered to be very valuable because we were at risk of losing dishes like this completely,” said Raimondo Mandis, president of Cagliari’s Slow Food chapter in a telephone conversation. “There were no more than 10 women who were hand-making lorighittas, and that was on a seasonal basis.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first recorded history of lorighittas dates to the 16th Century, in a testimony regarding the production of a peculiar pasta braided in the shape of a ring in Sardinia. The report was made to the King of Spain, who had control over most of southern Italy including Sardinia, Naples and Sicily at the time, and who had inquired about the economic activities happening on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, Mandis explained, lorighittas were prepared exclusively in Morgongiori for the feast that takes place on All Saints Day every year on 1 November. “Like many regions throughout Italy and especially Sardinia, food customs and traditions are tied to villages for anything from religious reasons or family gatherings to Sunday lunch,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Morgongiori’s most popular fables, told to local children, is the story of Maria Pungi Pungi. Armed with a pitchfork, this witch-like character would fly over the houses on the night of All Saints Day and pierce the bellies of children who had eaten too many lorighittas, so that the pasta would fall out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries, Sardinia’s pastoral culture dictated that it was a woman’s duty to take care of food preparations while the men were busy on the fields, so it’s not unusual that dishes like this would be made primarily by women, Mandis told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Their shape [is] an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down from mother to daughter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The name lorighittas reckons the idea of little ears,” Mandis said. “But their shape is connected to wedding rings, preciously made by women's hands, an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down through the women of the family from mother to daughter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there remains some debate over whether lorighittas were made exclusively by unmarried women in the village in the hopes of securing a husband, given Sardinia’s history of superstitions relating to food and matrimony, it wouldn’t be difficult to imagine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are many traditions in Sardinia relating to food and marriage,” Mandis said. “For lorighittas, it has to do with the idea that for young, single women in a large family, it was a tradition or a wish for them to get married – so while they were waiting on a wedding ring, they would work on this ring-like pasta in the kitchen with their mothers and grandmothers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInspired by the stories I’d heard, I returned from Sardinia determined to make lorighittas from scratch. The recipe, which only calls for three ingredients – a semolina-based durum flour (a typical wheat grown in the fields of Sardinia) lukewarm water and salt – should be easy enough, I thought. It’s the actual hand rolling and twisting of the dough that takes years to master.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In my opinion, the hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them,” Francesca Turnu, councillor of the Municipality of Morgongiori said. “And it is a culinary tradition that is alive [in this town] because the women of Morgongiori continue to make it this way by hand to this day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDexterity be damned, I thought as I began furiously massaging the durum mix into a pliant-enough lump of dough that would eventually transform into the twisty little ringlets that’d make the women of Morgongiori proud. After an hour of kneading and hand-rolling the dough into bucatini-thin noodles, it was time for the real challenge. I took my first long strip of dough and rounded it twice between my forefinger and thumb, and started, ever so gently to twist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, as they’ve done for hundreds of years, women in Morgongiori knead the dough for a minimum of 30 minutes, often much longer, dabbing it occasionally with salty water until it’s nice and pliable. Once the dough is ready and the pieces of lorighittas are plaited, they’re left on a reed basket to dry, which is a good time to get started on the sauce. In Morgongiori, a typical ragu will include either chicken or pigeon with onion, garlic, parsley, white wine and tomato passata. Once the lorighittas are cooked (for less than three minutes), they’re coated with fresh pecorino cheese and layered with the ragu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESounds easy enough, except that four hours and fewer than 10 semi-passable pieces of lorighittas later, I had to throw in the towel. Maybe they didn’t turn out as planned because I’m married and live in a one-bedroom loft apartment in Jersey City – or maybe I just need to get a few more centuries of practice under my belt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery village in Sardinia has its own foods that are steeped largely in tradition using local produce. “The climate changes quite a bit from the central, more mountainous part of the island where pastoralism is really dominant,” said Carole Counihan, professor emerita of anthropology at Millersville University in the US state of Pennsylvania and visiting professor at Cagliari University in Sardinia. “Everybody has vegetable gardens, and sheep herding is dominant in central mountain regions, but then there are places where fishing is important, especially in the coastal regions, so there’s a lot of variation in the diet.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECounihan, who has studied Sardinian food and food activism traditions in her fieldwork, said the downturn in maintaining cultural food customs really started to take a turn in the 1980s with the introduction of supermarkets in Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sardinia has more square metres of supermarkets than any other region in Italy, so a lot of people I interviewed through my fieldwork said ‘[when] I was little I ate mostly from local farmers and shepherds’,” Counihan said. “Part of that shift is due to the decline of local agriculture and pastoralism, which people are now trying to bring back. There’s been a resurgence of young farmers going back to the land with new ways and new models of supporting the local food movement that’s starting to take shape.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe effort to maintain lorighittas started in 1994, when the Morgongiori town council got together and decided to host a festival dedicated to this special pasta. Renzo Ibba, mayor of Morgongiori, said the town also invited some of Sardinia’s most acclaimed chefs at the time – including Roberto Petza, owner and chef of Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sapposentu.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ES'apposentu di Casa Puddu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Siddi, a village in central Sardinia not far from Morgongiori – to come and present different recipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The [town] council also involved local, small producers (all women) to give tradition a new life, thanks to an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.galmarmilla.it\u002Fen-en\u002Fgal.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEU-funded programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that helped them emerge from a family production to a professional undertaking,” Ibba said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the town of Morgongiori continues to dedicate the first Sunday of August to lorighittas in a town-wide festival called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dromosfestival.it\u002F2016\u002Fdromosfestival\u002Fluoghi\u002Fluogo\u002FMorgongiori-Centro-Storico-00001\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESagra Delle Lorighittas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to showcase its culinary legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Now, thanks to a few good chefs, we are seeing lorighittas on menus and in restaurants around the country; they are much more common,” Mandis said. Mostly, you will see them made in very good restaurants and it’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-06-26T19:29:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Lorighittas: an all-but-lost Sardinian dish","headlineShort":"A pasta made only by single ladies","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","summaryShort":"It is one of the island's best-kept secrets","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:19:33.4729Z","entity":"article","guid":"07be68a4-7c3f-43f1-a710-926889c015f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:32:07.319512Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta","_id":"631917e743d9f4572408ad6a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fliz-shemaria"],"bodyIntro":"In the Valtellina valley, buckwheat cultivation – along with its signature pasta dish – is a centuries-old tradition. However, what's considered the \"real\" recipe is up for debate.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChiara Lanzarotti remembers when \"everyone was a farmer\" in the small town of Teglio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's still like a postcard,\" Lanzarotti said, pointing her cane to the south side of Italy's Valtellina valley, surrounded by the Orobie Alps, which are snow-speckled, even in mid-July. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELanzarotti's maternal ancestors, the Tusetti's, settled in Teglio on Valtellina's north side – 16km south of the Italian-Swiss border in Lombardy and 900m above sea level – in the 1600s, and cultivated buckwheat, a traditional food staple for farmers tending their terraced mountain crops. Flour ground from the plant's triangular seeds, \u003Cem\u003Egrano saraceno\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Italian, or \u003Cem\u003Efurmentùn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Valtellina's dialect, was central to a hearty tagliatelle-style pasta dish called \u003Cem\u003Epizzoccheri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which was topped with vegetables like cabbage and potatoes, as well as cheese and butter, which fuelled them from dawn to dusk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's hard to know when the dish was first made, in the 1799 book Die Republik Graubündent (The Republic of Graubünden), German historian Heinrich L Lehmann wrote about a \"perzockel\" dough made from buckwheat flour and egg, which was cooked in water and served with butter and grated cheese. Lehmann noted that farmers living in small homes would also use this same dough to make a simpler, gnocchi dish as they didn't always have the luxury of time or space to roll and cut the dough into flat tagliatelle noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the end of the 1800s, there were 5,000 acres of buckwheat cultivated in Valtellina. Today, however, only 50 acres are farmed, primarily in Teglio. Buckwheat production declined drastically with the rise of industrialisation in the 1950s and was replaced by more lucrative crops like wheat, which was substituted for some of the buckwheat flour used for making pizzoccheri.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyt4xy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround that time, the Lanzarotti's, too, stopped growing buckwheat on their Teglio land. However, their restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteaitigli.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAi Tigli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, run by Lanzarotti's son, Roberto Scínetti, continues to make pizzoccheri and is one of 10 Teglio restaurants recognised by a consortium for serving what some claim to be the \"authentic\" version of the dish. Founded in 2002 by Scínetti along with two dozen other chefs, farmers and residents, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faccademiadelpizzocchero.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAccademia del Pizzochero di Teglio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Teglio Pizzocchero Academy) had determined that the official Pizzoccheri di Teglio recipe must include pasta made from 75% buckwheat flour, 25% wheat flour and water. (It also stipulates that pizzoccheri pasta should be 5mm wide, 7-8cm long, and 2-3mm thick.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Gnocchi and tagliatelle pasta is made from buckwheat and water and topped with cabbage, cheese and potatoes – depending on the seasonal harvest\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, this recipe is a point of debate, as many locals have traditionally only used buckwheat flour to make the dish. Giancarla Maestroni, a Teglio historian and former university professor and middle school teacher, considers buckwheat-only pizzoccheri to be more \"original\", as the first recorded recipes didn't include wheat flour. As botanist Giuseppe Filippo Massara wrote in 1834, \"Gnocchi and tagliatelle pasta is made from buckwheat and water and topped with cabbage, cheese and potatoes – depending on the seasonal harvest.\" Massara's description is similar to Maestroni's family recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen she was a teacher in the early 2000s, Maestroni had her students interview their parents and grandparents about the legacy of buckwheat farming in Valtellina, and then spent the next 20 years investigating historical records about grano saraceno cultivation in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyt4s9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I was curious to know when buckwheat arrived here, from where, why, and why people started to cultivate it,\" explained Maestroni, who traced her Teglio roots and buckwheat cultivation on her maternal Reghenzani side to the 1600s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.montagnappennino.it\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2017\u002F08\u002Flibretto-il-grano-saraceno-1-1.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in 2014 by professors from the University of Florence in partnership with Italian and European agricultural associations, Maestroni learned that seeds for Valtellina's first buckwheat fields likely came from Russia in the 1400s, after Mongolian invaders brought them from Yunnan, China. Buckwheat easily took root in the region as it was ideally suited to grow in its rocky alpine terrain. In 1616, the governor of what was then called Valle dell'Adda wrote that \u003Cem\u003Eheidenkorn \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(buckwheat) was the main crop, and by 1830, the Valtellinese milled more than 1,800 tons of buckwheat per year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, relatively little buckwheat is grown in Teglio, and two major Teglio-based commercial mills – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.molinofilippini.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFilippini\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.molinotudori.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETudori\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – process buckwheat seeds from Eastern Europe and sell the resulting flour to supermarkets and restaurants, including Ai Tigli. Five independent producers still cultivate and grind buckwheat flour in Teglio, but without the benefit of mass production, their prices are nearly double that of Filippini and Tudori, and thus, they are an unsustainable option for Teglio businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaestroni argues that the addition of wheat to the pizzoccheri recipe has altered the quality and taste of the dish, resulting in the loss of an important culinary tradition. \"You notice the buckwheat more,\" Maestroni said of buckwheat-only pizzoccheri. \"They taste better.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyt4zh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFlavour aside, there are practical advantages to using wheat flour in pizzoccheri dough. Gluten from the wheat acts as an adhesive, increasing the pasta's durability; buckwheat-only mixtures can be more delicate and need to be cooked immediately before they fall apart, Scínetti explained. Adding wheat to the dough also supports mass production, creating a more stable pasta that can be dried and cooked later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the success and ubiquity of the wheat-inclusive Pizzoccheri di Teglio recipe, interest in buckwheat-only pasta has recently resurfaced. Scínetti, who follows the Academy's recipe at Ai Tigli, started rolling pizzoccheri dough with only buckwheat flour about five years ago when customers asked for a gluten-free version of the dish. Since all his pasta is made-to-order, durability isn't an issue, and he doesn't mind making another version for the restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a simple recipe,\" he explained, as he combined water with buckwheat flour, kneaded the dough on a marble countertop and rolled it into thin disks like his grandmother taught him to do when he was 15 years old. Although his \u003Cem\u003Enonna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E used a wooden pastry board over a kitchen table, the technique is the same, he says. After rolling the dough in preparation to make thin strips of pizzoccheri, he cuts it into two rectangles, stacks them and then cuts the dough into dozens of thin strips. He immediately cooks the pasta, along with boiled potatoes and cabbage from the family's garden, and tops it all with a mixture of local Casera cheese and garlic-infused brown butter. He presents the dish – typically served at lunchtime – in a flat copper pot, family-style.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyt504"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther Teglio restaurants such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotelcombolo.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistorante Combolo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristorantecerere.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistorante Cerere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as well as many home chefs, in the area have also begun to make and serve gluten-free pizzoccheri. And, as a result of increased demand and a desire to grow more local and sustainable buckwheat, some Telglio-based buckwheat producers are trying to revive the industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA member of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fassociazione.saraceno.teglio\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Associazione per La Cultura del Grano Saraceno di Teglio e dei Cereali Alpini Tradizionali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Teglio Buckwheat and Traditional Alpine Grains Cultural Association) founded in 2008 to support local buckwheat cultivation, Maestroni is among 25 Teglio residents keeping the tradition alive with their own buckwheat fields. She measures her crop as her ancestors did, using an Ancient Roman unit, the \u003Cem\u003Epertica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or 688 sq m, and produces approximately 45kg of buckwheat flour for each harvest. \"I and the other members of the association want to ensure that native buckwheat seeds aren't replaced by imported ones,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe association also funded the restoration of an 18th-Century mill called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.teglioturismo.com\u002Fdettaglio-proposta\u002Fstoria-arte-e-cultura\u002Fmulino-menaglio\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMulino Menaglio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E so that Maestroni and the other producers could grind their own buckwheat seeds into flour. The mill is part of a museum where members teach visitors about the history of grano saraceno in Teglio and give instructions for making pizzoccheri, forming the dough with just two ingredients: buckwheat flour and water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether using just these two ingredients or adding a bit of wheat flour into the mix, it seems that the buckwheat and pizzoccheri tradition is living on in Teglio. And perhaps with time, as more buckwheat is cultivated, Lanzarotti's view of the Valtellina valley will become more reminiscent of the one she remembers from the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyxz5r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPizzoccheri di Teglio (gluten-free)\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFrom Ai Tigli\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E500g buckwheat flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E250g \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ctcb.it\u002Fvaltellina-casera\"\u003EValtellina Casera cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (fontina or Gruyere can be used as a substitute)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E150g Parmigiano Reggiano\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g Savoy cabbage, cut into strips\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E250g potatoes, peeled and diced into 2cm pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 garlic clove, thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EPepper to taste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWater\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMix the buckwheat flour with water gradually until you have a workable dough, and then knead the dough for about two minutes, adding buckwheat flour to your pastry board as needed.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ERoll the dough on a marble or wooden pastry board until it's about 2-3mm thick, and cut it into two 7-8cm rectangular sheets.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EStack those sheets on top of each other and cut them into 5mm-wide strips. (Pizzoccheri can be delicate depending on the amount of starch in your buckwheat flour, and Scínetti recommends cooking the pasta immediately as the strips may break if left in the refrigerator for too long.)\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMeanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water with the potatoes to a boil, and after about 5 minutes, add the cabbage. Continue to boil for an additional five minutes, or until the cabbage and potatoes are soft, then add the pasta, cooking for an additional 10 minutes.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMelt the butter in a shallow saucepan and then add the sliced garlic, simmering over medium heat until brown specks appear.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWith a slotted spoon, remove half of the pasta and vegetable mixture from the pan, transfer it to a casserole dish, or shallow pot, and cover it with the grated cheese. Add the remaining vegetable and pasta mixture to the dish and cover it with cheese.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EScrape the saucepan to capture the brown milk solids at the bottom of the pan and pour the browned garlic-infused butter over the pasta dish. Serve with freshly ground pepper.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-08T10:13:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Pizzoccheri: Italy's debated buckwheat pasta recipe","headlineShort":"Italy's original wheat-free pasta","image":["p0cyt511"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.1706537","longitude":"10.0572749","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cyt511"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220809-cacio-e-pepe-en-vessie-a-pasta-cooked-in-a-pigs-bladder","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the Valtellina valley, buckwheat cultivation – along with its signature pasta dish – is a centuries-old tradition. However, what's considered the \"real\" recipe is up for debate.","summaryShort":"Some say the addition of wheat has altered the quality and taste","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-07T22:14:44.647767Z","entity":"article","guid":"64cac8ca-2e08-4bcf-a671-99194be271c5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-08T13:10:40.717465Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-pizzoccheri-northern-italys-gluten-free-buckwheat-pasta","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","_id":"6316827f43d9f46f44746fb6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkeridwen-cornelius"],"bodyIntro":"The 180 miles of canals that criss-cross Phoenix, Arizona, allow millions of people to live in the sun-baked desert. But most people don't know the story of their mysterious origins.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECrisscrossing Phoenix, Arizona, are 180 miles of canals – more than twice as many as Venice and Amsterdam combined. As a native Phoenician, I've spent many hours bicycling their banks alongside joggers and fishermen casting for carp. I've joined wildlife watchers strolling the main Arizona Canal on a summer evening to watch \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.azgfd.com\u002Fwildlife\u002Fspeciesofgreatestconservneed\u002Fbats\u002Fbatviewing\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexican free-tailed bats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E make a mass fluttering exodus from their roost. And I've chatted with long-time residents who fondly recall fashioning water skis from plywood, tying a tow rope to a pickup truck and jetting through their neighbourhoods in a spray of water and dust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe canals deliver irrigation and drinking water throughout the metro area, allowing millions of people to live in this sun-baked desert. They are a major reason Phoenix exists, and the city's name hints at their mysterious origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1867, the city's founding father, Jack Swilling – a prospector who had fought on both sides of the Civil War – stood above the Salt River Valley and saw the remnants of irrigation channels squiggling across the landscape like stretchmarks. He realised that, centuries before, some society had farmed this desert. Soon after, Swilling began scouring out the debris-clogged ditches to bring agriculture back to the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I prophesy that a new city will spring, phoenix-like, from the ruins and ashes of the old","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree years later, Swilling and other Anglo pioneers met to consider names for their settlement. The top contenders were Pumpkinville and Stonewall. Luckily, eccentric English adventurer \"Lord\" Darrell Duppa proposed a name inspired by the resurrection of the canals. \"A great race once dwelt here, and another great race will dwell here in the future,\" he mused. \"I prophesy that a new city will spring, phoenix-like, from the ruins and ashes of the old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyf7xj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat great society was the Hohokam. Between 100 and 1450 CE, they constructed 1,000 miles of canals – the largest system of waterways in the Americas north of Peru. This sophisticated irrigation system harnessed river water and a meagre seven inches of annual rainfall and funnelled it to more than 100,000 acres of farmland. And they dug it all by hand with stones and sticks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The engineering is phenomenal,\" said Kathy Henderson, principal investigator at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdesert.com\u002F\"\u003EDesert Archaeology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Arizona-based cultural resources management and research company. \"We don't see a sequence where they start small. The canals are being built to scale as early as 500 or 600 [CE]. They must have been very attuned to how to transport water a long distance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The engineering is phenomenal… They must have been very attuned to how to transport water a long distance","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Gary Huckleberry, a geologist and adjunct researcher at the University of Arizona, the water-wise Hohokam and their ancestors are still relevant today. \"In the Southwest, we have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-61669233\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome serious issues to deal with in terms of water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\" he said. \"The Colorado River is the main source of water for the Southwest, and it's over allocated. You've got population growth and climate change. How are we going to deal with that? I think there's something to be learned by looking at past societies who managed water for thousands of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyf7x6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENative Americans have been building canals in Arizona for at least 3,500 years. The oldest waterways archaeologists have found date to 1500 BCE and diverted water from the Santa Cruz River in Tucson. Through trial and error, these ancient river people accumulated knowledge that was passed down from generation to generation, Huckleberry notes. \"So, by the time you get to the Hohokam, they were skilled hydraulic engineers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the dammed Salt River is mostly dry in Phoenix. But visit the north-eastern outskirts of the city – where \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kayakingthesaltriver.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ekayakers paddle the Salt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E past sienna mountains, cottonwoods and wild horses splashing along the shore – and you can sense the possibilities that greeted the Hohokam when they migrated here from southern Arizona. The Sonoran Desert is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Ftuzi\u002Flearn\u002Fnature\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's most biodiverse desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It provided ample plants and animals, in addition to the Hohokam's staple crops of maize, squash, beans and cotton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause the Hohokam had no draft animals, they carved the canals by hand using hafted stone hoes. With these simple tools, they created a precise downhill gradient of 0.3 to 0.5m every 1.6km. At the heart of the system, the Salt River, the channels started out large – more than 25m wide in some places. Then they slimmed as they branched into lateral canals and furrows, like watery arteries and capillaries writ large. These design features helped keep the flow at a consistent rate while minimising siltation and erosion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the Hohokam expanded their network, they had to contend with the area's complex topography. Multiple mountain ranges tower around and through metro Phoenix, making it, to my mind, the best big city in the world for hiking. But it's a challenge for hydraulic engineers, especially since epic summer monsoons dump rain that rushes along rock-hard surfaces. Floods would have regularly broken through headgates and filled channels with sediment, which meant the Hohokam constantly repaired, cleaned and diverted the canals. This necessitated a highly coordinated society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyf7vg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It requires cooperation, because all the users of the water from that canal have to agree not only to construct it, but also to maintain it,\" Henderson said. \"An alliance of users would have to agree to certain conditions to keep the entire system going.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, she explained, not all farmers could open the gates to their fields at the same time, because some people further down the line wouldn't get any water. So, the Hohokam committed to sharing water and put themselves on timetables. \"This led to the development of water rights,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 13th Century, as many as 50,000 Hohokam people lived in villages that were regularly spaced along the canal system. This suggests to archaeologists that water and irrigation land was distributed fairly equitably amongst the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries, the canal system was reorganised numerous times, but its essential structure remained the same. However, after 1300, the society and the canals began to diminish, and by 1450 the population had plunged. No one knows why. Climate may have played a role, but there's no evidence of especially intense climatic events at the time. And though some irrigation-based cultures have faced salinisation of their soils, evidence indicates the Hohokam managed salt build-up well. While archaeologists once believed the Hohokam population collapsed following a catastrophe, improved techniques \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.archaeologysouthwest.org\u002Fexhibit\u002Fonline-exhibits\u002Fpieces-puzzle\u002Fpiece-5\"\u003Enow point to a very gradual decline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E resulting from a complicated combination of community coalescence, flooding, siltation, reduced wild food resources and conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cyf7s6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, Huckleberry says, there's much to learn from the Hohokam and their ancestors, who utilised canal irrigation for 3,000 years. \"That, to me, is the definition of sustainable,\" he said. \"They learned how to sustainably farm, to manage water, to not destroy their soils in a way that is commendable and might give us insight into how we might deal with the current plight. I think one of the key lessons is that you don't put all your eggs in one basket; you plan for the worst, and you diversify your strategies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hohokam may have stopped managing their canal system, but they did not disappear. Their story continues with their descendants, the Akimel O'odham (\"River People\") and Tohono O'odham (\"Desert People\"), who live in central and southern Arizona today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETheir legacy also lives on in the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.srpnet.com\u002Fgrid-water-management\u002Fwater-recreation\u002Fcanal-trails\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emodern canals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of which were constructed by retracing the Hohokam's handiwork. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.phoenix.gov\u002Fstreets\u002Fgrandcanalscape\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGrand Canal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is now getting spruced up as part of a project to connect Phoenix's east and west suburbs in a continuous multi-use trail. \"Today we are integrating the canals into our communities to improve neighbourhood access, add new public art spaces and contribute to a healthier Phoenix by introducing them as a recreational amenity,\" announced Phoenix Mayor Kate Gallego in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hohokam's heritage is also preserved in one of their villages, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpueblogrande.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPueblo Grande\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum and archaeological park where visitors can see ballcourts, a platform mound (ceremonial house) and re-created adobe houses. Hikers can search for Hohokam petroglyphs of coyotes, mountain sheep and spirals along the trails of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitphoenix.com\u002Fsonoran-desert\u002Fhiking\u002Fpetroglyphs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Mountain Preserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdeervalley.asu.edu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeer Valley Petroglyph Preserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And travellers can use the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adeepermap.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Deeper Map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E app to swipe right on a modern map of Phoenix and reveal the Hohokam innovations hidden beneath their feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps one of the Hohokam's most important legacies is less tangible: the idea that it's possible – through cooperation, commitment and shared knowledge – to live sustainably in this sun-baked desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-06T03:11:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The watery secret of ancient North America","headlineShort":"The desert people who built a US city","image":["p0cyf7y5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"33.4484","longitude":"-112.0740","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cyf7y5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The 180 miles of canals that criss-cross Phoenix, Arizona, allow millions of people to live in the sun-baked desert. But most people don't know the story of their mysterious origins.","summaryShort":"The city's name pays homage to their engineering prowess","tag":["tag\u002Fcity"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-05T23:12:46.827546Z","entity":"article","guid":"3354a997-acf0-470f-bfc8-c3f3630c0239","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-05T23:43:49.606808Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762255,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Farizona","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_arizona_north-america_usa_north-america"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo","_id":"62df804a43d9f4573d6a6792","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"By harnessing the ancient practice of tapu, the Rapa Nui people of Easter Island were able to ward off the coronavirus soon after it penetrated their territory.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was sometime in early March when a passenger with Covid-19 landed at the world’s most remote commercial airport, disembarked into Easter Island’s sticky air and subsequently infected members of the small volcanic outcrop’s indigenous Rapa Nui community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis 164-sq-km speck in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean is a Chilean territory famed for its 887 monolithic human figures, known as \u003Cem\u003Emoai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. But with just three ventilators to serve a population of 7,750, Mayor Pedro Edmunds Paoa made the tough decision to cancel all incoming flights beginning 16 March, effectively terminating the 2020 tourism season. Cases on the island grew to a total of just five thereafter, and by the end of April, the virus had been completely eradicated – while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-52793940\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emainland Chile suffered from one of the globe’s most explosive outbreaks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Easter Island’s isolation 3,500km west of the Chilean coast certainly helped, Edmunds Paoa credits the island’s success to one key containment measure: \u003Cem\u003Etapu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an ancient Polynesian tradition that’s been passed down through generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Tapu is a sacred order to protect our health, to protect our life and to protect our elders and their ancient wisdom,” he explained. “It’s a form of discipline rooted in Polynesian culture that has to do with restrictions, but also respect.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181209-south-americas-other-easter-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth America's 'other' Easter Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200630-why-are-the-japanese-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy are the Japanese so resilient?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200823-why-are-the-dutch-so-tall\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy are the Dutch so tall?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe mayor says that when he shut Easter Island off from the outside world, residents were divided between those who trusted him and others who knew it would ruin the tourism-based economy. “I had to come up with a way to unite us because the only enemy was the virus and the only way to confront that was to bring up the ancient concept of tapu.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETapu is essentially a self-care principle based on respect for the norms of nature, with spiritual restrictions and shared prohibitions at its core. Things that are tapu are to be left alone and may not be approached, interfered with or, in some cases, even discussed out loud. After successfully using it as a form of quarantine in the early days of the pandemic by restricting the movement of islanders to prohibit social contact, the government has now revived another ancient principle, \u003Cem\u003Eumanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or reciprocal labour between neighbours, to give islanders a shared sense of purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to both tapu and umanga, Easter Island has not only successfully warded off the coronavirus; it’s revived past practices in order to plot a more sustainable future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe origin of the word “taboo”\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETapu is practiced in various forms across Polynesia, from New Zealand to Hawaii, and is believed to be the origin of the English word “taboo”, with British explorer James Cook first noting the concept on a visit to Tonga in 1777. While tapu is a divine mandate controlling a society’s access to certain people, places or things (with potentially dire consequences for those who transgressed in historical times), taboo is similarly used in English to describe practices that are either forbidden or restricted by social or religious customs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tapu is a sacred order to protect our health, to protect our life and to protect our elders and their ancient wisdom","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn Easter Island, the respect locals have for their archaeological sites is a noticeable example of tapu. However, other forms of tapu – including prohibitions on fishing during spawning seasons – have been lost over the last 50 years as the island adapted to meet the needs of international tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Little by little, the community has been losing these ancient cultural ideas as they submitted themselves to modernisation,” said Edmunds Paoa. “To me, this materialistic agenda is the worst thing that’s happened to us.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps the tide is now beginning to turn after months of extreme isolation due to a lack of visitors – at least, that’s what Carlos Edmunds Paoa, president of the island’s Council of Elders, believes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“These concepts we have, including tapu, are very important for daily life on the island, particularly in this moment, because we have returned to the old system,” he said. “Of course, that’s not entirely possible, but we are in this process of rediscovery because it’s very important to be able to get by like we did in the past before we had the big boats, the planes and the phone connections to the outside world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo live in a place like Easter Island, he explained, is like “being on a small boat, with a small crew, and you have to learn how to survive with all the elements you have.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EProblem is, Easter Island has been so heavily dependent on mainland Chile for food, and its 100,000-odd annual tourists for income, that it hasn’t needed to function in survival mode. In that sense, the pandemic was a blessing in disguise, helping to turbocharge a programme that aims to make the island self-sustainable and waste-free by 2030 using umanga.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EReactivating the island with umanga \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUmanga describes the sense of collaboration islanders feel when they help each other out, without expecting anything in return, in order to sustain the community as a whole. If you have more than others, you share it. If you know information that others don’t know, you tell them. If you’re healthy enough to build something, you offer your hand. All of this is umanga.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Up until March 2020, we had a mask over our eyes and we couldn’t see","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn its modern form, umanga has been revived as an employment scheme called Pro Empleo Rapa Nui, which has put 700 islanders back to work, remunerating them with a modest sum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Formerly on the island there were very few resources, so the families – no matter who, how or if they would get paid for it – always helped, and that’s what we’re all doing now,” explained Nunú Fernández Paoa, who heads up the Pro Empleo programme. “We are all working together to beautify the island, to help people out and, in the end, to give a sense of umanga.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPro Empleo has seven main objectives, she said, including insuring food security, empowering cultural exchange and beautifying the island. Thanks to the programme, there is now news in the local Rapa Nui language, dedicated family vegetable gardens, intricate new street signage, enhanced recycling initiatives and regular craft fairs to promote internal exchange. Plus, out-of-work tour guides have trained the younger generation about the importance of the island’s archaeological sites, while dive instructors have scoured the ocean floor to remove two tonnes of rubbish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We looked at the pandemic as an opportunity to push forward with our plans to develop our island more sustainably,” Fernández Paoa said. “Plus, it has given workers a sense of meaning in what they are doing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhase one of the programme, which lasted from May to August, was an investment of 1.3bn pesos (about $1.6m), while phase two, which runs from September to December will cost another 1.2bn pesos (about $1.5m). The government has diverted a large percentage of the island’s annual budget to the cause.\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“Now our eyes are open”\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEdmunds Paoa says umanga is the perfect example of how coronavirus has helped Easter Island to realise it needed an entirely new paradigm – one based less on growing tourism and more on reverting to ancestral ways of self-sustainability that have been lost over time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“For me, as the leader of the island for almost 30 years, I’m actually thankful for the pandemic situation, because it has enabled this plan of sustainability and respect for nature,” he explained. “Up until March 2020, we had a mask over our eyes and we couldn’t see.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat the pandemic did, he explained, was change the position of the mask from the eyes to the mouth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It shut our mouths, because we kept eating and consuming and searching for money and building and destroying the nature and our fragile culture, without seeing the jeopardy that we were putting ourselves in,” he said. “Now, our eyes are open, and we are more keen to promote sustainability in words, actions and plans than we ever were before.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-26T03:09:27.58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The origin of the word 'taboo'","headlineShort":"A Polynesian custom thwarting Covid-19","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"By harnessing the ancient practice of tapu, the Rapa Nui people of Easter Island were able to ward off the coronavirus soon after it penetrated their territory.","summaryShort":"It’s part of an island-wide effort to cleanse and care for its own","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:56:54.880575Z","entity":"article","guid":"8e18f1d4-8ccb-45f1-a00d-0c6bab5317cb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:17:28.297451Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762255},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","_id":"62df7f3843d9f46da30db20c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Index\"\u003EIn the 15th and early 16th Centuries, a small island in Lake Titicaca was one of South America's most important religious sites. Revered as the birthplace of the Sun, the Moon and the Inca dynasty, Isla del Sol (\"Island of the Sun\") drew pilgrims from across the Andes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few years ago, I followed in their footsteps, catching a boat from the Bolivian town of Copacabana across the choppy, gunboat-grey lake, which sits an altitude of 3,812m, making it the only place on the planet a traveller can \"suffer from sea-sickness and mountain-sickness at the same time\", according to British explorer Percy Harrison Fawcett, who visited in the early 1900s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter docking on Isla del Sol's north-east coast, I followed a centuries-old trail past a host of Inca and pre-Inca ruins – \u003Cem\u003Etambos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (waystations), shrines, temples, plazas, altars and a ceremonial complex that includes Titikala, a slab of sandstone from which Andean creator god Viracocha is said to have brought forth the Sun and the Moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECaptivated by the ancient sites and the views of the snow-streaked Cordillera Real in the distance, I paid little attention to the terraced fields snaking along the hillsides of the island. Yet these deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as \u003Cem\u003Eandenes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Spanish for \"platforms\"), these terraced fields are scattered across the central Andes. First constructed around 4,500 years ago by ancient cultures across the region, they were perfected by the Inca, who emerged in the 12th Century and were masters of adopting and adapting techniques, strategies and belief systems from other societies. Andenes, says Cecilia Pardo Grau, curator of the British Museum's current \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fperu-journey-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeru: a journey in time exhibition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, were \"a creative way of defying the terrain… that allows for an efficient way of growing [crops]\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Choquequirao on steep forested hill, Cusco, Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey allowed Andean communities to overcome challenging environments, including steep slopes, thin soils, extreme and sharply fluctuating temperatures, and scant or seasonal rainfall. Fed by artificial pools and elaborate irrigation systems, andenes significantly expanded the area of cultivable land. They also conserved water, reduced soil erosion and – thanks to stone walls that absorbed heat during the day and then released it at night – protected plants from severe frosts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis enabled farmers to grow dozens of different crops, from maize and potatoes to quinoa and coca, many of which would not otherwise have survived in the region. The upshot was a dramatic increase in the overall amount of food produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond their ingenuity, andenes also have an artistic quality, forming vast geometric patterns on the landscapes of the Andes. Some look like giant green staircases carved into the mountainside, while others are made up of sets of concentric circles, capturing the attention like an optical illusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most impressive is the Peruvian archaeological site of Moray, which resembles a natural amphitheatre. Located around 50km north of the former Inca capital of Cuzco and 3,500m above sea level, it demonstrates how andenes were used to create a range of microclimates. Thanks to the varying designs, sizes, depths and orientations of the terraces, the temperature differential between the highest and lowest is around 15C. Moray has been described as an \"agricultural research station\": soil samples from across the empire have been discovered here and researchers argue the Inca may have used the site to experiment with practices like crop rotation, domestication and hybridisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESophisticated agricultural techniques such as andenes played a vital role in the expansion of the Inca empire, which was known as Tawantinsuyu and spanned much of modern-day Peru, western Bolivia, south-west Ecuador, south-west Colombia, north-west Argentina and northern Chile at its height. One of the oldest surviving accounts of their use comes from Garcilaso de la Vega (1539-1616), the son of an Inca noblewoman and a Spanish conquistador. After capturing a new territory, the Inca started to expand the amount of agricultural land by bringing in skilled engineers, de la Vega noted in his book, Royal Commentaries of the Incas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of andenes for agricultural purposes in Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Having dug the [irrigation] channels, they levelled the fields and squared them so that the irrigation water could be adequately distributed,\" he wrote. \"They built terraces on the mountains and hillsides, wherever the soil was good… In this way the whole hill was gradually brought under cultivation, the platforms being flattened out like stairs in a staircase and all the cultivable and irrigable land being put to use.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe newly expanded land was subsequently split into three parts: one for the Inca emperor; one for religious purposes; and one for the community, tranches of which were then distributed by local leaders. Although they were not taxed, farmers were required to spend time working on the emperor's and the religious lands, as well as their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechniques such as andenes were combined with policies such as \u003Cem\u003Emitma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where people were moved to recently conquered territories to help cement Inca control; and \u003Cem\u003Emit'a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a form of compulsory public service used to provide manpower to build infrastructure, including a road network tens of thousands of kilometres long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis approach to agricultural, community and imperial organisation allowed the Inca to amass large surpluses of food for use during droughts, floods, conflicts and other lean periods. These stockpiles – which included \u003Cem\u003Echuño\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, freeze-dried potatoes produced by repeated exposure to frost and bright sunshine – were kept in huge storehouses called \u003Cem\u003Equllqas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In the absence of a written language, the Inca used a complex system of multicoloured knotted strings known as \u003Cem\u003Equipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or \u003Cem\u003Ekhipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to maintain inventories, as well as keep track of population and astronomical data. Some academics believe quipu may even have been used to record narratives such as stories, songs and poems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrau argues that quipu – examples of which are on display in the British Museum's exhibition – were central to Inca society. \"They inherited this knowledge from the Wari, a society that existed in the southern highlands, 400 years before the Inca,\" she said. \"The Inca used a decimal system: they had a different knot for every number from one to nine, and then for tens, hundreds and thousands... the quipu was key in the way the empire functioned and was organised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View to the Colca Canyon with the Colca river flowing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the andenes, stockpiles and quipus helped the Inca to steadily expand an empire that eventually dominated a great swath of South America, encompassed 12 million people and produced majestic citadels such as Machu Picchu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th Century triggered the overthrow of the Inca and the decline of the andenes. Colonial violence, epidemics of European diseases and forced displacement devastated the indigenous populations of the central Andes. European crops and agriculture practices were introduced and quickly spread throughout the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet while many andenes were abandoned or fell into disrepair, they never disappeared completely. Drawing on knowledge passed down over the generations, many Andean farmers continue to use them today, and though often overlooked by travellers, they remain a common sight in places such as Isla del Sol and the wider Titicaca region, the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu, and the Colca Canyon in southern Peru, a fissure twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, there has also been renewed academic interest in andenes as a form of sustainable agriculture that could help the world cope with the climate crisis, water scarcity and soil erosion. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN, for example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Flatin-america-and-the-caribbean\u002Fandean-agriculture\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edescribes traditional Andean culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"one of the best examples of the adaptation and knowledge of farmers to their environment\", and highlights its sustainable approach to land usage, water management, soil protection and crop biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFour and a half thousand years after they first emerged, the terraced fields of the Andes appear to be ahead of their time. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-13T10:04:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The innovative technology that powered the Inca","headlineShort":"The technology that powered the Inca","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"13.3299","longitude":"72.1971","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","summaryShort":"It helped them build the largest empire in South American history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-12T20:04:36.692474Z","entity":"article","guid":"9d902331-9f60-4fdc-b7a7-cb847bf544b1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:40.514947Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island","_id":"6316f67443d9f460d03e036b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsarah-brown"],"bodyIntro":"Living on a remote, barren isle bestowed with few resources, the Rapanui needed to combine ingenious design with flawless sculpting to move the massive moai without any machinery.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coastal winds whipped across my face as I craned my neck to see the 15 moai before me. Standing up to two storeys tall and with their backs to the choppy Pacific Ocean, the statues' empty eye sockets, once embellished with white coral and red scoria, gazed perennially across Easter Island. Their bodies were etched with enigmatic symbols, and their faces, with prominent brows and elongated noses, seemed both comfortingly human and formidably divine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are 887 moai scattered across Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as the islanders call it, and these 15 were standing on the Ahu Tongariki plinth, the largest ceremonial structure on the remote Chilean isle. Looking up at the overly large heads and legless torsos, I found it hard to imagine how these giant monolithic figures – which weigh up to 88 tons and were built at least 900 years ago – could have even got here. But it wasn't just me who was confounded: researchers have long puzzled over how these weighty moai were manually transported across the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeveral theories have been proposed, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fislandheritage.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2010\u002F06\u002FRNJ_20_1_Einstein.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eincluding using logs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to roll the statues and even the far-fetched belief of extra-terrestrial help. However, it seems that the secret lies in the marriage of ingenious design and flawless sculpting, which enabled these humanlike statues to stand upright and rock forward from side-to-side while being guided by ropes, granting the statues the ability to \"walk\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe movement would have been similar to the shuffle of a refrigerator being moved in a standing position, with each side inching forward one at a time. \"But the Rapanui [the Polynesian peoples indigenous to Rapa Nui] went beyond that and actually carved the base of the statues and added certain angles in so that it was a better version for moving,\" explained Carl Lipo, an archaeologist specialising in the moai and lead author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F235636824_The_'walking'_megalithic_statues_moai_of_Easter_Island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea 2013 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E into how the statues moved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cynd9w"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis was the first study that successfully \"walked\" a five-ton replica, and the walking theory it proposed \"melds oral history and science\", according to Ellen Caldwell, art history professor at Mt San Antonio College in California who has expertise in ancient Oceanic art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe notes that walking statues are a part of Rapanui oral traditions, with the word \"\u003Cem\u003Eneke neke\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in the Rapanui language translating to \"walking without legs\"; and says that it is this phrase and such oral histories that Rapanui elders and descendants recall when answering how the moai were moved across vast distances without any machinery. Rapanui \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nhpr.org\u002Fenvironment\u002F2022-04-13\u002Frapa-nui-easter-island%20(nhpr%20-%20permalink)?_amp=true\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echildhood nursery rhymes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also tell stories about the statues walking; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.easterislandtourism.com\u002Feaster-island\u002Fculture\u002Freligion-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elegends say\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that a chief with \u003Cem\u003Emana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or supernatural power, helped the moai to walk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are plenty of ancestral songs and stories that talk about the moais walking","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The oral tradition of the island talks about the moai walking from the place where they were made to their final destination on top of the alters,\" said Patricia Ramirez, who has lived on Rapa Nui since she was five and now works there as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toursbylocals.com\u002FEasterIsland-PrivateTour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etour guide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Traditionally, the only way history was passed down on the island was through songs, through chants, through games and through poetry. There are plenty of ancestral songs and stories that talk about the moais walking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cynd9r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, although locals have long spoken of them walking, it took foreign scholars more than two centuries to accept this way of transporting the moai. \"It's really been just Europeans and other researchers sort of saying, 'no, there must have been other ways, it couldn't have been that',\" said Lipo. \"There was no way we could think of moving the statues other than having lots of people. This turns out not to be true. The archaeological record really points to that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThis centuries-old feat of \"walking\" the moai still impresses engineers and scientists today: a study\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fieeexplore.ieee.org\u002Fdocument\u002F9689055\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E published in January 2022\u003C\u002Fa\u003E explored applying the rock-and-walk movement of the statues to robots, using the same techniques as the ancient Rapanui stone carvers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Modern applications","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlmost all the statues were created in the volcanic quarry of Rano Raraku before being transported to stone plinths (known as \u003Cem\u003Eahus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) at different points on the isle's coastline. Lipo's study found that unfinished statues in the quarry and abandoned ones lying on the side of the island's roads – ie ones that needed to be moved – had wider bases relative to shoulder width compared to the statues standing on the ahus. They also significantly leaned forward by around 17 degrees, causing the centre of mass to be positioned just over the rounded front bottom edge. These adjustments allowed the statue to roll from side to side and be transported to their final spot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What's sort of stunning is that they're so far forward leaning, they couldn't stand up on their own because they would topple forward,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese features indicate that the moai were modelled after \"our own way of walking\", said Lipo, explaining that when we walk, we rotate our hip and fall forward. \"The Rapanui essentially created a structure that could do the same thing. As the statue leans forward, it falls and moves across the front to take a step forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe walking moai would have been supported and guided by ropes, with a group of Rapanui people on each side of the statue leading the steps and a small group behind steadying the movement. Once the statue reached its ahu, stone carvers would chisel in eyes and reshape the base to adjust the centre of mass, allowing the statue to stand upright by itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cynd88"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhy the Rapanui chose to walk the statues rather than drag them or roll them on logs came down to practicalities, according to Lipo. The weight of the sculptures would have crushed the logs, while dragging such huge moai would have demanded enormous manpower. On a remote, barren island bestowed with few resources, walking the statues would have been an efficient method. \"You see the engineering that went into being able to make and move the moai with the least cost. The Rapanui people did it within the constraints of the island, basically by cooperation and ingenuity,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy walk from the Rano Raraku crater to Ahu Tongariki was just 800m in distance, but I wasn't trying to guide an 88-ton moai with a few ropes. Other statues I visited stood on ahus up to 18km away from the quarry, making my bike ride there seem a breeze compared to the feats the ancient Rapanui civilisations accomplished.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECreating walking statues would have been a trial-and-error process. About 400 statues remain in and around the Rano Raraku quarry in various stages of completion, an indication that the stone carvers used the valley as an artistic laboratory to experiment with different prototypes before hitting on one that could be efficiently moved, said Lipo. \"It really documents the history of craftsmanship, experiments, attempts and failures,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce a statue was ready, it would be led out of the valley and guided towards its ahu. The ancient roads leading out of Rano Raraku were concave, which aided and supported the moai's side-to-side rocking movements. However, not all moai made it to their ahus – some lost balance along the way and tumbled off the roads. Visitors to the quarry will see the ruins of dozens of abandoned statues littering the outer slopes and roadsides; it's the best place on the island to get a sense of the immense number of moai created. Lipo's study found that these fallen moai have breaks consistent with falls from a vertical standing position, strengthening the theory that they walked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cynd5f"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce the statue reached its destination and had been reshaped to allow it to stand upright, it would be lifted onto its ahu. At that point, the moai were sometimes topped with stone hats called \u003Cem\u003Epukao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to give them \u003Cem\u003Earinga ora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (living face), or, in other words, \"their human form\", said Jo Anne Van Tilburg, an archaeologist specialising in Rapa Nui rock art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHaving a human-like appearance was important to the Rapanui, as the moai were used in rituals for the dead and to honour Rapanui chiefs. The Rapanui people believed the world of the living and the dead was continuous, explained Ramirez. \"They weren't content in only symbolically remembering their ancestors – they wanted to have physical images to represent them,\" she added. \"And that's what the moais statues are. They are the faces of the dead ancestors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The first contact with the Europeans devastated their culture. It's the same saga on all Polynesian islands","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELipo noted that the stone carvers may have sung ceremonial songs while the statues walked to maintain the rhythm of the movement, with different songs for different sized figures to match the pace of the moai's movement. However, little remains of the oral history of the Rapanui people to confirm this. \"A lot of the songs and stories were lost due to colonisation and missionisation,\" said Tilburg. \"The first contact with the Europeans devastated their culture. It's the same saga on all Polynesian islands.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite scientific research answering many of the most puzzling questions about the moai, the lack of oral and written history keeps Rapa Nui shrouded in myth. But it's this element of mystery that lured me – and tens of thousands of other tourists each year – to this remote dot of an isle in the first place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI pictured the 15 statues on Ahu Tongariki rolling side-to-side across the barren land, a celestial chant filling the air. Yet having walked the ancient unpaved roads of this south Polynesian island, these giant moai today stand unmoving and silent, their construction speaking volumes of the ingenuity of their past creators.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-07T05:05:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 'walking' statues of Easter Island","headlineShort":"How huge statues 'walked' 900 years ago","image":["p0cyndds"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-27.1127","longitude":"-109.3497","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cyndds"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201026-the-origin-of-the-word-taboo","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Living on a remote, barren isle bestowed with few resources, the Rapanui needed to combine ingenious design with flawless sculpting to move the massive moai without any machinery.","summaryShort":"The centuries-old mystery long puzzled researchers","tag":["tag\u002Fisland","tag\u002Farchaeology"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-06T07:27:30.986631Z","entity":"article","guid":"4cb6ce9c-8333-4cce-a4f5-c7b5b00021eb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-07T11:42:50.010494Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220906-the-walking-statues-of-easter-island","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feaster-island","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fchile","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_chile_easter-island_south-america_chile_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","_id":"62df7f2d43d9f45721362eb2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Built by ancient Indigenous People and long considered to be sacred, the Iniskim Umaapi medicine wheel in Alberta is one of the oldest religious monuments in the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout a year into the Covid-19 pandemic, Laura Sitting Eagle was feeling unwell. The Blackfoot Elder, who resides on Siksika 146 – a First Nations reserve of the Siksika Nation in southern Alberta, 87km south-east of Calgary – went to see her doctor and was informed that anxiety was the issue. With a daughter working as a frontline healthcare worker and a school vice-principal son, she was worried for the health of her family and the stress was affecting her own wellbeing. She realised that she needed to get emotional, spiritual, physical and mental balance. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs her ancestors before her had done, she found relief in making a trek to the medicine wheel called Iniskim Umaapi to pray and make a spiritual offering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the oldest religious monuments in the world, the medicine wheel sits on a windswept hill far from any signs of civilisation. It consists of a central cairn surrounded by 28 radiating stone lines that are encircled by another large ring of stones measuring 27m in diameter. The Blackfoot have many names for it, but the current commonly accepted name is Iniskim Umaapi, which means \"buffalo calling stones sacred site\". European colonists named the stone circle Majorville Medicine Wheel, after the Majorville post office and general store that was once nearby. Settlers called these structures medicine wheels because they resemble wagon wheels and are considered sacred sites by Indigenous People. Regardless of their name, these enigmatic geoglyphs are shrouded in mystery – Iniskim Umaapi more so than any others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMedicine wheels are scattered across the Northern Plains, in Montana, Wyoming, Saskatchewan and Alberta, but Iniskim Umaapi is the oldest-known one in the world. Archaeological studies estimate the ancient stone circle to be about 5,000 years old – dating roughly the same time as the first phase of construction of Stonehenge. Located on England's Salisbury Plain, Stonehenge is thousands of kilometres and an ocean apart from Iniskim Umaapi. The fact that both stone circles are ancient and have mysterious purposes and origins led to Iniskim Umaapi being dubbed \"Canada's Stonehenge\" by Gordon R Freeman, professor emeritus at the University of Alberta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Two people looking at Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike Stonehenge, Insikim Umaapi is not easy to find. My husband and I got lost on our first attempt to reach the medicine wheel. It is surrounded by public land and sits on a high hill near a vast coulee carved by the Bow River. A maze of rough dirt roads – some with no trespassing signs – leads to the sacred site. We finally got there with the assistance of Indigenous guides from nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.blackfootcrossing.ca\u002Findex.html\"\u003EBlackfoot Crossing Historical Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum and attraction dedicated to the promotion and preservation of the Siksika Nation’s language, culture and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wind blasted across the prairie grass as we climbed to the lichen-covered stones at the top of the hill. Since I hadn't brought an offering, one of the guides gave me a piece of Bannock bread to lay on the stones in the central cairn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn immense mystery older than Stonehenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient skyscraper cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FCanada_s_Stonehenge.html?id=qvMhOAAACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's Stonehenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Freeman postulates that Iniskim Umaapi was part of a vast, open-air sun temple. He believes the stone circle was used as a calendar to mark the changing seasons and phases of the moon. \"These discoveries show that genius existed on the North American Plains 5,000 years ago and probably much earlier than that,\" Freeman wrote. He also described the site as \"the most intricate stone ring that remains on the North American Plains\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFreeman spent years studying this stone circle and other geoglyphs around the world. He estimates that he and his wife Phyllis spent a total of seven months living at Iniskim Umaapi over his many years of study, visiting the stone circle in every season and photographing it at both sunrise and sunset. He says that four of the 28 radiating stone lines in the circle correspond to the cardinal points of the compass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIniskim Umaapi is situated on one of the highest hills in the region. On a clear day, you can see for about 100km in every direction when you're standing inside the circle. The site is surrounded by grasslands, and there are stones outside the circle on at least two other high hilltops. While some archaeologists interpret the placement of the stones outside the main circle as the random results of a glacial moraine, Freeman believes they were carefully placed there. Taken all together, he believes they represent the sun, the crescent moon, the morning star and constellations. According to Freeman, the rising and setting sun on both the longest and shortest days of the year line up with rocks inside and outside the circle. The spring and autumn equinoxes, when day and night are equal, are similarly marked with uncanny accuracy and the 28 radiating lines inside the circle correspond to the length of the lunar cycle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFreeman has spent more time researching this ancient stone circle than any other scientist, but some archaeologists don't agree with his sun temple theories, despite compelling research and photographs. In fact, the exact purpose of Iniskim Umaapi is something scientists have not been able to agree upon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a healing place that helped me gain the courage and strength I needed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northernc.on.ca\u002Findigenous\u002Ffour-sacred-medicines\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHowever, the Blackfoot also see the stone circle as having four quadrants. The number four is one of the most significant numbers in Blackfoot culture, because it represents many things including the four cardinal directions, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northernc.on.ca\u002Findigenous\u002Ffour-sacred-medicines\u002F\"\u003Efour sacred medicines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the four human needs. To Laura Sitting Eagle, the four quadrants of the medicine wheel represent emotional, physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing. The ancient stone circle is a place to find balance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Medicine wheels are sacred,\" she said. I went there to give an offering and it really helped me. It's a healing place that helped me gain the courage and strength I needed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe greatest mystery of Iniskim Umaapi centres on its purpose, but there are also questions about the people who built it. Five thousand years ago, the original builders may have been ancestors of the Blackfoot People or they may have been another ancient Indigenous People who occupied the area. Regardless, the Blackfoot who have lived on this land since time immemorial have long used the ancient stone circle as a ceremonial site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Close up of rocks at Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"To ordinary people, the rocks in the medicine wheel are just rocks, but to us they are alive,\" explained Gerald Sitting Eagle, a Siksika Elder and husband to Laura. \"The rocks give us life and the four directions and the signs in the medicine wheel mean different things to different people. The rocks piled up in the middle look like a Sweat Lodge and some say the stone ring resembles a Sun Dance Lodge. There are many different stories about the purpose of the medicine wheel, but we know it is a place to look for the creator's help.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To ordinary people, the rocks in the medicine wheel are just rocks, but to us they are alive","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough I have Indigenous ancestors, I didn't know how to pray in the Blackfoot way when I stood inside the ancient medicine wheel. I sat and pondered about how I could achieve better balance in my life, and when I placed my small offering next to others on the stones, I felt a sense of awe and humility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Stonehenge, we may never know exactly how or why Iniskim Umaapi was built. But all who spend time at the geoglyph agree that there is symbolism and power in this ancient stone circle – something that can only be felt and cannot be quantified. The Blackfoot Nation has recognised it for thousands of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-10T13:51:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Iniskim Umaapi: Is this Canada's 'Stonehenge'?","headlineShort":"Is this Canada's 'Stonehenge'?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.6304","longitude":"-112.7059","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Built by ancient Indigenous People and long considered to be sacred, the Iniskim Umaapi medicine wheel in Alberta is one of the oldest religious monuments in the world.","summaryShort":"It's one of the oldest religious monuments in the world","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-09T13:54:18.83849Z","entity":"article","guid":"d264a1d6-7c92-4fa3-8386-2a54940befc5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-26T04:35:29.880131Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global","_id":"62df81b143d9f46d1c4ba3fb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the painful aftermath of the Korean War, one woman’s recipe for a survival stew quickly spread across the country. Now, it’s one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFramed newspaper clippings and family photos hung on the faded yellow wallpaper of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fodengsikdang.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOdeng Sikdang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E restaurant\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E in Uijeongbu, a city 30km north of Seoul. A cloud of steam engulfed 22-year-old Grace Moon’s face as she lifted the lid from a pot of \u003Cem\u003Ebudae-jjigae \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(army stew), and even before the fog dissipated, she and I were greeted by the savoury aroma of \u003Cem\u003Echeongyang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E chilli peppers and slightly fermented kimchi. The cauldron brimmed with generous portions of ham, sausage, minced meat, bacon, dumplings, rice cakes and ramen noodles sardined in a bubbling red soup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESlurping up the ramen first, Moon, nodded with approval: “This is definitely different from the franchise stuff.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver lunch, Moon told me how her grandmother had first come across army stew after fleeing North Korea as a 12-year-old girl, and how she used to ask her grandmother to make it for her as a child. Moon said she would always oblige, even though it brought back traumatic memories of her journey escaping Pyongyang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My recipe was copied and spread throughout Korea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESometimes called “Korean army base stew”, budae-jjigae is a spicy sausage concoction marrying Korean flavours with processed American meats like Spam and hot dogs. It was created during the years of food scarcity immediately following the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fshared\u002Fspl\u002Fhi\u002Fasia_pac\u002F03\u002Fthe_korean_war\u002Fhtml\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorean War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1950-53), and today, some older Koreans – like Moon’s grandmother, who still refers to the dish as “garbage stew” – have painful associations with the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are a handful of theories as to exactly how this first Korean-American fusion meal originated, but the most widely acknowledged one harks back to here in Uijeongbu, and this very restaurant’s founder: Heo Gi-Suk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHeo, who passed away in 2014, told her story at every opportunity. She used to stir-fry leftover meat from the nearby US Army base at a small \u003Cem\u003Eodeng\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fish cake) stand when a regular customer suggested she make the meats into a spicy soup with rice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Back then there wasn’t a lot to eat, but I acquired some ham and sausages. The only way to get meat in those days was to smuggle it from the army base,” Heo \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-24140705\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etold the BBC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2013. “We had to make do with whatever the soldiers had left over. We’d make a stew with whatever came out of the base, and my recipe was copied and spread throughout Korea.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith the dish’s success, Heo turned her humble stand into a restaurant and opened Odeng Sikdang in 1960. Soon, restaurants serving the dish began to pop up near US military bases across the country. After US president Lyndon B Johnson visited South Korea in 1966, rumours circulated that he was a fan of the stew – giving budae-jjigae the nickname “\u003Cem\u003EJohnson-tang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (“Johnson soup”).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs more restaurants served army stew, more families started making the dish at home. To this day, each region has a slightly different take on budae-jjigae and fierce debates are had over which type of broth (kelp and anchovy or slow-cooked beef bone) is best, and if the ingredients should be stir-fried beforehand or not. In addition to the ingredients found at Odeng Sikdang, popular toppings include bacon, spring onions, mushrooms, baked beans, American yellow cheese and Spam. In fact, today South Koreans produce and consume more Spam than anywhere outside the US, and in many ways, this is due to budae-jjigae’s popularity in the decades after the Korean War.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Budae-jjigae largely evolved from a survival stew to one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnder President Park Chung-hee’s rule (1963-1979), South Korea went through a period of rapid economic development that resulted in less food scarcity but also high tariffs on imported meat. One of the reasons for this unlikely fusion food’s success was that Spam became viewed as a rare and expensive treat that enhanced the dish’s overall meaty flavour. According to anthropologist Sangmee Bak, the increasing globalisation in South Korea spurred by the 1986 Asian Games and 1988 Olympics held in Seoul also caused attitudes about food to change, and during this time, the image of budae-jjigae largely evolved from a survival stew to one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200204-is-this-the-capital-of-kimchi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's surprising foodie capital\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191028-is-this-the-worlds-freshest-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the world's freshest seafood?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200127-is-this-the-most-authentic-korean-barbecue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe best place to eat Korean barbecue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese days, army stew can be found practically everywhere in South Korea. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nolboo.co.kr\u002Feng\u002Fmain.asp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENolboo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a budae-jjigae franchise, opened its first location in 1987 and now manages approximately 1,000 locations across the country. The street where Odeng Sikdang is located, Hoguk-ro, has a handful of other budae-jjigae restaurants and was officially renamed Uijeongbu Budaejjigae Street in 1999. In 2011, K-pop superstar Hwangbo, formerly of the group Chakra, opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fshimsontang\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShimsontang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which boasts a budae-jjigae made with 12-hour beef bone broth and has two locations in Seoul. And last year, the Michelin Guide named the food one of “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fguide.michelin.com\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Ftravel\u002Fthe-must-eat-dishes-for-travelling-thais-destination-4-south-korea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe must-eat dishes in South Korea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the past decade, budae-jjigae has spilled over from a Korean comfort food to a trendy international recipe. In a \u003Cspan\u003E2015 episode of \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=Q1IIUZIjoNk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParts Unknown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Anthony Bourdain described budae-jjigae to television journalist Anderson Cooper as “a classic example of necessity being the mother of deliciousness”. Bourdain featured the dish again in his 2016 book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.harpercollins.com\u002F9780062409959\u002Fappetites\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAppetites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And Irish DJ and chef Marcus O'Laoire published his take on the “straight up Korean goodness” for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishtimes.com\u002Flife-and-style\u002Ffood-and-drink\u002Fhow-to-make-two-step-spicy-korean-army-stew-1.4081719\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Irish Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Budae-jjigae is an honest portrayal of where our country was and how far our country has come","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut does budae-jjigae’s modern mainstream appeal and newfound international popularity mean perceptions about the dish have changed in Koreans who remember the dish’s painful, war-torn origins? Chef Hooni Kim, whose New York restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.danjinyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanji\u003C\u002Fa\u003E became the first South Korean eatery to earn a Michelin star in 2012 and who features a budae-jjigae recipe in his cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwnorton.com\u002Fbooks\u002F9780393239720\u002Fconnect\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMy Korea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, sees a generational divide with the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Kim first started serving DMZ Stew (his take on budae-jjigae) at Danji nine years ago, he said there was backlash from what he now realises is “a very small minority of Koreans that want to portray only the good parts of Korean history”. While he empathises with the fact that some war survivors find budae-jjigae hard to reconcile, he chooses to see the dish as a reflection of South Korea’s success: how it has gone from being one of the world’s poorest countries in the 1950s to a global economic powerhouse today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t think Korea’s younger generation considers the country having been poor as something to be ashamed of. Budae-jjigae is an honest portrayal of where our country was and how far our country has come,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese days, instant noodle giants Nongshim, Ottogi, Paldo and Samyang each have their own version of budae-jjigae ramen – with many shipping boxes of army stew-flavoured ramen to the US and elsewhere. During autumn 2016, Nongshim’s budae-jjigae flavoured ramen called Bogle Bogle Budae-jjigae was so in demand that it grossed 10 billion won (£6.53m) \u003Cspan\u003Ein its first 50 days on the market\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAngela Kim, food director at the popular site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tastykoreachannel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETasty Korea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E credits budae-jjigae’s modern popularity to its “easy-to-make” nature, and over the years, the rise of at-home kits and budae-jjigae-flavoured ramens have made the dish even more accessible. “Once you have great broth and ingredients, all you need to do is put in everything and boil,” she said. “You don’t need any special equipment like charcoal or a commercial oven, so anyone can cook it. It is Korean soul food.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmid the ongoing pandemic, budae-jjigae has once again become a topic of conversation. Its humble origins are a pertinent example of making lemonade out of lemons, but the dish is also a practical solution for many Koreans and Korean food fans cooking at home during social-distancing measures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It represents the creativity that emerged from devastation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPopular Korean-American food blogger Hyosun Ro recently posted a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FB_33t3mlVzf\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epicture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of budae-jjigae on Instagram and linked to her recipe for the dish, saying, “You can make this at home with a few pantry ingredients and kimchi.” Chef Peter Cho, a two-time James Beard Award semi-finalist who regularly serves budae-jjigae at his restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hanoakpdx.com\u002Fmenu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHan Oak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portland, Oregon, said budae-jjigae is a fitting food for the pandemic because, “the dish comes from using all the shelf staples you might find in most grocery store aisles: Spam, canned sausage and canned beans”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those quarantined in South Korea, ready-made budae-jjigae packages, as well as packaged kimchi, ramen and spam, have been common items in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fobservers.france24.com\u002Fen\u002F20200305-south-korea-coronavirus-COVID-19-kits-masks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Equarantine meal kits\u003C\u002Fa\u003E delivered by local government offices. Jaimin Yoon, a Korean-American who was quarantined in South Korea recently, received packaged \u003Cem\u003Egamja-tang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spicy pork-back stew)\u003Cem\u003E, doenjang-jiggae \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(soybean paste stew) and budae-jjigae alongside a box full of vegetables from a local farmer’s collective from the regional government office outside Seoul. Yoon, who isn’t a huge fan of the dish, said, “the positive is that it's greasy and hearty” and called it the “perfect” hangover food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, according to sociologist Grace M Cho, this simple “comfort food” is layered, loaded and symbolic of many things for many people. In her article \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjournals.sagepub.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1177\u002F1536504214545759\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEating Military Base Stew\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she wrote, “It is a reminder of a brutal ‘Forgotten War’ that has not yet ended. It represents the creativity that emerged from devastation, a legacy of the complicated relationship between Koreans and Americans.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, Odeng Sikdang remains a cultural icon. Sixty years after the restaurant first opened, each pot of budae-jjigae here is still served with a bowl of rice and a side of odeng fish cakes, and it still transports some diners back to their pasts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELeaving the restaurant on a full stomach, Grace Moon promised Kim Gab-seok, Odeng Sikdang’s hospitality manager, that she would be back. A loyal customer of 20 years himself, Kim said the restaurant’s recipe has remained almost exactly the same, except that Heo added a few more \u003Cem\u003Echeongyang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E chilli peppers in her day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I work here, but I don’t get tired of the food,” he said. “I have it 10 times a week.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-10T13:33:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How a South Korean comfort food went global","headlineShort":"The easy-to-make Korean comfort food","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the painful aftermath of the Korean War, one woman’s recipe for a survival stew quickly spread across the country. Now, it’s one of the nation’s favourite comfort foods.","summaryShort":"Born from South Korea’s war-torn past, “army stew” is experiencing a renaissance","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:50:30.441282Z","entity":"article","guid":"70ece54f-4fd2-436b-a2b6-cf370eb65e3a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:10:38.003464Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate","_id":"62df816d43d9f46d84529ec7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Roasted, ground barley flour, otherwise known as tsampa, is inextricably linked with Tibetan people, binding the diaspora across the Himalayan region and further afield.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The Tibetan grain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETsampa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a roasted, ground barley flour is ubiquitous in the ethnic Tibetan areas of the Himalayan region, encompassing areas between the Indian subcontinent and the Tibetan Plateau, along with the Tibet Autonomous Region and parts of Western China. It is quite literally mixed into the DNA of Tibetan people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn a land where animal husbandry, religion and nature have formed a deeply spiritual and symbiotic relationship, tsampa has become engrained in Tibetan culture. It’s used to nourish the people, feed the cattle and safeguard the soul when offered as a sacrifice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is the first solid food many Tibetans eat as babies and one of the last elements of their being as their body is returned to the earth upon death. This circle of life has been slowing spinning for countless generations, much like the impassive Buddhist prayer wheels dotted across the mountainous landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Where nothing grows","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe highest elevations of the Himalayan region have limited arable land and an extremely harsh climate. Barley is particularly precious, as it’s one of the only viable crops at such high altitude. It is planted in the spring and harvested in the summer, when bundles of golden sheaves are laid out to dry on towering, wooden drying racks under the sun’s unforgiving rays. These medieval-looking structures, which are covered by the harvest during summer, are left abandoned in winter, casting ghostly shadows of an abundance that once was.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the barley has dried, it is roasted and ground to form tsampa. Traditionally, subsistence farmers would carefully work this valuable crop into tsampa before separating it into three portions: one for the family, one for the animals and one to donate to the monastery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETibetan Buddhist monks use tsampa offerings to bake blessed bread for worshipers, mould religious sculptures and to provide food for themselves. Tsampa is also used in \u003Cem\u003Esang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a type of powdered incense thrown into monastery fireplaces, sending up thick, dark smoke from ancient chimneys as an offering and blessing for good fortune.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is tough to eke out an existence on the upper reaches of the Tibetan Plateau, with barley being one of the only arable crops on the rooftop of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A lifeline","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAsk any Tibetan and they will tell you that the best way to eat tsampa is in a steaming bowl of salted yak butter tea. The roasted barley flour is placed into a bowl and the perfect ratio of tea is cautiously poured over. The mixture is carefully gathered together, between fingertips often callused from exposure to the elements, and slowly worked into a dense, mouthful-sized ball. Once eaten, the filling fare sits heavy in the stomach, satiating hunger, warming cold bodies from the inside out, and has provided nourishment for generations of Tibetans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVersatile tsampa can also be used to thicken soups, or can be baked into breads, pastries and biscuits. It can accompany slabs of yak meat and cheese or preserved vegetables, and mixed with hot spices or sugar, depending on the prevalence or preference of the ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, tsampa mixed with yak butter was, and often still is, used as a cure-all medicine, be it slathered on a particularly painful tooth or as an aid for indigestion. Generations of Tibetans have extolled its healing benefits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Tsampa initiation","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInfants are weened onto tsampa from around one month old, with a small pinch of the flour mixed into warmed water or yak milk. While half Tibetan, I was brought up in England, and received my initiation to the dish as a young child, when I would spend summers with family friends in Kalimpong at the orphanage where my Tibetan father grew up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1950, China enforced its long-held claim to Tibet, and in 1951, Tibetan leaders signed an agreement giving China control over Tibet’s external affairs. Since this period, and following a Tibetan rebellion in 1959, many Tibetans have settled in Kalimpong, a Himalayan hill town in India, near Darjeeling, not far from the Chinese border, and once an outpost for offshoots of the ancient Silk Road and Tea Horse Road trading routes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a young girl, I was drawn to tsampa, most likely because of the sense of belonging it gave me, rather than the taste. The nutty smell of roasting tsampa intermingled with the milky, rich, enveloping scent of freshly churned yak butter tea transports me to childhood summers in Kalimpong. Eating tsampa when I visited India helped me to connect to my Tibetan roots, even if that meant connecting with an immigrant community in a foreign country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The circle of life","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETsampa can play an equally important role in death as at the beginning of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome ethnically Tibetan areas lie at such high altitude that the earth is too solid to bury a body and there is only a limited supply of firewood for cremation, so the deceased are given ‘sky burials’. During this funeral process, bodies are sliced into small, manageable pieces for vultures to consume. Tsampa is thrown on the flesh to absorb the blood and stop it from splattering on those tasked with breaking up the body. The final part of the ritual, after the flesh has been eaten, involves grinding down the bones and mixing the pulp with tsampa for the birds to finish off. If requested before death, in certain areas, some of the bone and tsampa debris will be taken to the monastery to sculpt into religious statues, and the skull used in the figurine of a protector god.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETibetan Buddhists believe that after a person’s spirit leaves its body, the physical remains do not hold as much reverence. They subscribe to the belief that all sentient beings can be reincarnated, so any human could be reborn as an animal and any animal could enter its next life as a human on the path to enlightenment. Feeding the vultures, on the same Buddhist cycle of rebirth, life and death, therefore offers good karma and is viewed as a happy occasion. The body breakers carry out their duty whilst smiling, to help the spirit into its next life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Uniting the diaspora","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Tibetan diaspora is nowadays spread across China, India, Nepal and many other countries. And while Tibetan people are more separated than ever, tsampa is the glue that binds the ethnic group together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough many of the ancient and religious traditions of Tibetan people are hard to practise outside of its borders, tsampa is an easy way to recreate a small taste of home, even for second- or third-generation Tibetans living elsewhere. The act of roasting and grinding barley to make tsampa is simple, and has barely changed since the first Tibetan ancestors started farming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Cultural connection","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is only one surviving photo of my father’s Tibetan family members: a well-worn, black-and-white photograph of my grandfather. I grew up staring at the photo of this handsome young man, with high cheekbones and a strong nose, wearing a proud expression and feather in his cap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAuspicious Tibetans traditionally burn the worldly possessions and photographs of those who have passed on to the next life, so they will not be tied to anything from their past life. This treasured photo was saved from the purge by my father’s progressive Han Chinese stepfather, who remarried the first wife of my grandfather, and handed the photo down to my father.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Fuelling the people","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI share my first name, Nyima, with my Tibetan grandfather, a leather merchant from Shigatse, and the seat of the Panchen Lama, the second most important religious figure in Tibetan Buddhism after the Dalai Lama. In the 1930s and 1940s, my grandfather would do business between his hometown and Kalimpong, which was once a gateway for trade between India and the Tibet Autonomous Region. It is located around 250km due south of Shigatse, with the route crossing one of the most treacherous mountain ranges in the world.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETsampa was, and still is, essential for Tibetan traders, herders, farmers and labourers, who are often nomadic and out in the wilderness for days at a time. It has been carried by generations of Tibetans scaling inhospitable mountain passes along trading routes. A pocketful of roasted barely flour mixed with fresh water is not only convenient, but also makes for a filling meal, and is even better when spare tea leaves or calorific yak butter is available. I imagine my own Tibetan grandparents filling their saddlebags with tsampa when setting out on their last trip from Shigatse, perhaps unaware that they would never see their hometown again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMineral-rich tsampa is known for its nutritional benefits: high in protein, vitamins and fibre, it can help lower cholesterol and is one of nature’s best energy foods, essential for Tibetans living labour-intensive lives at high altitude.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Finding my heritage","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I was 20, I moved from England to China and stayed for eight years, which allowed me to learn more about my heritage by visiting remote regions of the country’s ethnically Tibetan areas. In Sichuan, I lived off the grid with a Tibetan horseman and his family. The horseman and his wife spoke no English, so we conversed in stilted Tibetan, halted Mandarin and the language of food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe consumed tsampa in its many forms, mixed with salted yak butter tea or baked into bread; and drank \u003Cem\u003Echang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a homemade barley beer and tsampa by-product. We called on far-flung neighbours as we journeyed on horseback and hunkered down on stools by hearths feasting and drinking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Tibetan culture, every stranger who comes to the door is welcomed in as a friend, and there is always a pot of tea boiling on the stove, warming the entire house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A homecoming","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERingha Temple, in China’s Yunnan province, is one of the most important temples in the area, with the fifth Dalai Lama said to have once visited and countless Tibetan Buddhists stopping to pray on their journeys. Just below the hill on which Ringha Temple sits is a small hamlet, often referred to as Ringha Village. Ringha Village will forever be my happy place – the place my imagination takes me to when the stresses of life seem overwhelming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen working as a magazine editor, I visited the village, which is made up of a handful of extended families who live in traditional Tibetan farmhouses at over 3,000m above sea level and have been working the land for generations. While there to review a hotel, I ended up learning more about my Tibetan culture and Tibetan traditions from this community than I had for most of my life, by spending my days with one of the local families.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a young child, I always had an affinity for pink, as many girls my age did. However, I never grew out of this phase, and magenta can always be found about my person even to this day. When I visited the village, the first thing that struck me about the women was that they all wore bright magenta headbands and many dashes of pink in their traditional Tibetan clothing. A Tibetan friend once joked with me that Tibetans don’t like to travel far, with people’s reincarnations often being recognised within the same family or village. Yet, he said, with more Tibetans moving overseas in the last century, the net for discovering reincarnations is constantly being widened around the world. I questioned myself: has my fondness for the colour been the hangover of a previous life in Tibet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Rebirth","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETibetans have always welcomed me in as one of their own and passionately taught me about our shared culture, even when I was young. However, I spent my childhood in England trying to fit into a small town and would avoid acknowledging my Tibetan cultural heritage. But one day, in my early teens, I was mortified to be picked up in the town centre by my father with a fully robed Tibetan monk (not pictured) in his car – my dad had managed to find the only other Tibetan in town at the supermarket and had immediately invited him home for food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHis name was also Nyima, the first person I had ever met who shared my name. He asked me if I remembered a past life. At the time, I found his question absurd. But when breathing in the thin air at high altitude in Ringha Village, I felt lightheaded as a dizzying sense of spirituality allowed me to consider the possibility of reincarnation. Perhaps my past life had led me back to this place and given me my fondness for tsampa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Text and production by \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENyima Pratten\u003Cem\u003E; video and images \u003C\u002Fem\u003EDaniel Agha-Rafei\u003Cem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis article is part of a special ‘Immigrant Edition’ of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsoul-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoul Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, a BBC Travel series that connects you with cherished memories through comfort foods from around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate-26"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-08-21T14:33:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Comfort food in the harshest climate","headlineShort":"Tibet’s 'cure-all' medicine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Roasted, ground barley flour, otherwise known as tsampa, is inextricably linked with Tibetan people, binding the diaspora across the Himalayan region and further afield.","summaryShort":"It’s eaten in one of the most unforgiving climates imaginable","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:26:19.033239Z","entity":"article","guid":"2fc8ef91-1a69-402b-a3a1-b976d2e34628","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:54:59.203484Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition","_id":"6315283843d9f4574d4c140c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkanika-gupta"],"bodyIntro":"Through decades of conflict, two generations of chefs have served hungry customers this lamb dish cooked in colourful teapots.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKabul's vibrant bird market, Ka Faroshi, lies in the heart of the old city. Framed by brown mud houses, the market's riot of colours erupts from the yellow of canaries, neon green of parrots and turquoise of \u003Cem\u003Ebudanas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a lark-like bird) all fluttering within bell-shaped wicker cages. The melody of birdsong guides shoppers deeper into the labyrinth of stalls that line the market's narrow alleyways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the cages and crowds, tucked between crumbling buildings, sits Kabul's oldest restaurant, a spot that has been serving \u003Cem\u003Echainaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional lamb stew, for nearly 70 years. Bacha Broot occupies one of the market's few remaining original structures, the others long ago destroyed by war and Soviet invasion. In this sea of people and dilapidated buildings, it would be easy to miss this tucked-away traditional \u003Cem\u003Echaykhana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (teahouse) if it wasn't for the heady aroma of a simmering stew that beckons customers up the crumbling staircase.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, the rich scent of oil and cooked lamb hangs heavy in the air. Chipped wooden tables and chairs that sag under the weight of time speak volumes about the crowds to which Bacha Broot has served its famous comfort food over the years. Its sparse interior and general state of disrepair illustrate the restaurant's single-minded goal of serving the best traditional chainaki.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09sh5y0"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBacha Broot, meaning \"boy with a moustache\" in Dari, is a single-dish restaurant that serves authentic chainaki cooked in the traditional way, in individual \u003Cem\u003Echainak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (clay teapots). The founder of the restaurant, Mir Mirza, was a \u003Cem\u003Echainaki pazir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (someone who specialises in chainaki) famous for his big moustache and rich chainaki. Current owner Wahidullah Bacha Broot, son of Mir Mirza, still offers customers the rare chance to eat chainaki in this traditional way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelen Saberi, food historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.helensaberi.co.uk\u002Fbooks.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoshe Djan: Afghan Food and Cookery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, notes the importance of chaykhanas that serve tea and simple traditional meals. \"They are found all over the country where weary travellers can obtain refreshments after long and dusty journeys,\" she wrote in her book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.helensaberi.co.uk\u002Fteatimes_historybook.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETeatimes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"They are also the meeting place for the locals (men) to meet and exchange news and gossip.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWahidullah prepares his traditional chainaki nearly each day, carefully following the family recipe to maintain the reputation his father worked for years to build. Coming from Panjshir province in the north-eastern part of the country, the elder Bacha Broot had humble beginnings as an illiterate man with no source of income. He was, however, an expert in making chainaki. He opened the restaurant more than seven decades ago and soon became famous for his teapot stew.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A lot of people in Afghanistan have started using different pots for preparing chainaki. If you make it in an ordinary dish, it becomes shorwa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ingredients are important, but when it comes to authentic chainaki, it all comes down to the clay teapot. \"A lot of people in Afghanistan have started using different pots for preparing chainaki. If you make it in an ordinary dish, it becomes \u003Cem\u003Eshorwa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" said Wahidullah, noting that the clay teapot is what gives the thick lamb stew its distinct taste and smell. Bacha Broot's kitchen surface is covered with colourful rows of chainaki teapots, all simmering with their precious delicacy and kept hot by coal embers beneath. Tea, which is prepared in a separate vessel, can be requested alongside the meal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cy9b72"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Bacha Broot, the day starts long before the sun rises. \"We start the process of cutting the meat at 03:00 and distribute it in all the teapots,\" Wahidullah said. \"We put 200g of lamb meat, tomatoes, onions, split peas and dash of our secret spice mix,\" he said, referring to the special blend of spices that has been a closely guarded family recipe for more than seven decades. He then places the teapots in a tandoor oven where the individual stews slow cook for five hours, and then keeps them hot on the coal-warmed counter. \"I work from 03:00 till 21:00; it is very tiring work,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe restaurant serves up to 100 guests each day in a cramped space that's neatly divided into two rooms – one for men and one for women. When I visited in March 2021, the men's room echoed with boisterous conversations covering everything from daily life to politics, and a tiny television blared news and traditional Afghan songs. The women's section was at the far end of the restaurant, separated by the kitchen and a \u003Cem\u003Epurdah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a thin veil. In this quieter, emptier area, a few women sat cross-legged on a raised platform covered in worn carpet, engrossed in intimate conversations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn line with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-27307249\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESharia brought on by the Taliban rule\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Bacha Broot now plays \u003Cem\u003Enasheed\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a permissible form of vocal music) instead of news and songs, and still caters to women, provided they are accompanied by their \u003Cem\u003Emahrams\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (male chaperones).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy chainaki was served in a smouldering hot teapot alongside a bowl and naan. To eat it the traditional way, I tore off pieces of naan and put them in the bottom of the bowl then poured the chainaki over the top. The aroma of the long-cooked spices and the rich scent of lamb drifted up, prompting me to eat so quickly that the naan didn't have the chance to grow soggy. Saberi notes that the naan, which absorbs all the flavours of the stew, can be scooped up by hand or with a spoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09sh6nz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EServing this comfort food sometimes came at great personal risk for the Bacha Broot family. Wahidullah started working with his father as a child, and even during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FAfghan-War\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMujahideen wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Taliban reign and relentless rocket attacks, they never stopped serving the stew. Wahidullah and his father worked even when the war raged on just outside their doors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Some days we prepared chainaki even when they were firing rockets outside","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Some days we prepared chainaki even when they were firing rockets outside,\" Wahidullah said. Once, \"a rocket lodged itself behind our restaurant, but it never exploded. It was a narrow escape for us that day. But then we came next day and resumed our work.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWahidullah is determined to keep his doors open. \"I want to continue selling chainaki because I want my father's legacy to live on. He worked really hard throughout his life to keep this place running,\" he said. \"I love that all kinds of people come to my restaurant for eating chainaki. I want to continue serving them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETrue to its commitment to serve its loyal patrons, they continued to serve their delicious chainaki even after the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-58222066\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaliban's takeover on 15 August 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"We are fortunate that our business remained unchanged following last year's events,\" said Faridoon, Wahidullah's brother.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09sh6z0"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite years of insecurity, Wahidullah remains optimistic that one day there will be peace and he will be able to run his business without worry. He hopes to eventually pass this legacy on to his children, who can continue to offer this traditional Afghan food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Years of war not only killed people but also these traditional recipes. There are very few Afghans who still know how to make authentic chainaki,\" said Wahidullah. \"I want chainaki to become Afghanistan's ultimate comfort food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-05T06:35:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Kabul restaurant preserving the teapot stew tradition","headlineShort":"A comfort food that survived a war","image":["p0cygm4t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.5553","longitude":"69.2075","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cygm4t"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190820-comfort-food-in-the-harshest-climate"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Through decades of conflict, two generations of chefs have served hungry customers this lamb dish cooked in colourful teapots.","summaryShort":"Very few know how to make this traditional teapot stew","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-04T22:35:18.603167Z","entity":"article","guid":"ff009d3d-0f07-4576-9186-655b552b9695","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-05T09:31:21.040014Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220904-the-kabul-restaurant-preserving-the-teapot-stew-tradition","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafghanistan"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_afghanistan","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","_id":"62df7f2043d9f4450234faba","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Germany's south-west, nestled between the alps of the Swabian region and the densely wooded Schönbuch nature park, lies Tübingen, a university city that would put most Disney locations to shame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is built around the almost perfectly preserved old town, with its cobbled alleyways, old timbered houses and rippling canals. (While historical centres of most German cities were destroyed during World War Two, just one bomb fell on Tübingen.) The river Neckar flows through the city centre, forming a little island – the Neckarinsel – which is covered with blossoms in the spring and shines golden in autumn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen lies in Swabia, a German region famed for its frugality – and which is also one of the nation's sunniest spots, making it considerably more cheery than other parts of the country with more gloomy, rainy weather. Significantly, being an academic city, it is small yet dynamic. \"For the size of the city, I find it incredibly international,\" said Nele Neideck, who runs an expat community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first came to Tübingen eight years ago to visit a friend, and, on first impression, the city seemed like a fairy tale, with its idyllic landscape and youthful vibe; out of the 90,000 residents, more than 27,000 are students at the University of Tübingen. We waded through gushing streams, feasted on Swabian specialties and travelled to parties in buses full of students. When I bid goodbye to this quirky town, I never imagined that years later I'd be returning to make it home. But that's what Tübingen does: it pulls you in, and before you know it, the ease of living in a place as small and vibrant as this makes you never want to leave.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Tübingen in Baden-Württemberg","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut that's not all that characterises Tübingen: it's also innovative, green and allows the existence of alternative lifestyles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo put the city's singularity into context, Tübingen was one of the centres of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dw.com\u002Fen\u002F68-movement-brought-lasting-changes-to-german-society\u002Fa-3257581\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGerman student protests of 1968\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which took place all over West Germany rejecting traditionalism and authority, which influenced the city's leftist and environmental sensibility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's futuristic city set in a forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Europe's greenest city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow can we be sustainable post Covid?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Tübingen, there are self-governed housing initiatives, where cooking and grocery shopping is organised collectively and is mostly vegan,\" explained Jenny Bröder, who has been living in Tübingen for 12 years and works at the university. \"The people running and living in these housings are often politically active, cultivate an awareness for social and ecological topics, and contribute to the cultural scene by organising concerts, lectures, festivals and parties. The food offered at these events is usually vegan too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, a lot of people I have met since moving here are vegetarian or vegan, and it's as common to ask if someone eats meat as it is to ask if they have allergies. Tübingen is even an official participant in Veganuary, the annual challenge that encourages people to go vegan for the month of January.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our vegetarian offering of the day gets sold out much quicker than the meat offering,\" said Alok Damodaran, who runs a South Indian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fspicetrippingfoodtruck\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood truck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city. This is significant in a country that is known for its sausage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sedat Yalcin at Ada Bakery","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreen politicians have been a part of the District Council since way back in 1979. And as a third of its population are students, the city is home to an educated community that is aware of environmental issues. It is this young and energetic spirit that allows for sustainability to be functional.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, Amelie Dietenberger and Kajetan Krott started baking vegan banana bread during the pandemic, first making individual deliveries and then turning it to a business supplying to several cafes. \"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people, which fits our project,\" said Dietenberger. \"People are so supportive because it's a local initiative, and they especially appreciate it that we deliver it in an electric car.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESedat Yalcin opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adabaeckerei.com\u002F\"\u003EAda Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city after coming here for an exchange programme several years ago, and now runs it with his wife, Aysenur-Sarcan Yalcin. While Germany is famous for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170203-germanys-favourite-fast-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edöner kebab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and shawarma joints, in Yalcin's bakery, virtually all the food is vegetarian or vegan. There are delicious \u003Cem\u003Eböreks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E filled with spinach, potatoes, aubergines, tahini and cheese alongside \u003Cem\u003Esimits\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a circular Turkish bread, and heaping salads. \"We are sold out every evening,\" Yalcin said. \"A vegetarian Turkish bakery works here because of all the students, but also people who are from here, they care about the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen is also constantly being redesigned and updated to be ever-more environmentally friendly. Wide and well-integrated bike lanes along with high parking fees makes the city very car unfriendly. An \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tagblatt.de\u002FNachrichten\u002FFreie-Fahrt-fuer-Radfahrer-494307.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eorder passed in February 2022\u003C\u002Fa\u003E declared that cars will no longer be allowed to drive on the city's central street, which will be reserved for buses and bikes. Students can travel on buses for free on weekends and after 19:00 in the evenings, while bus travel is free for everyone on Saturdays. (The local government even plans to make buses free all the time.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen spends three times as much per capita on bicycle infrastructure than Copenhagen, Boris Palmer, the city's mayor, told me. And a new tax imposed at the beginning of 2022 – with Tübingen being the first city in Germany to implement it – has upgraded the green status of the city even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Passive houses at quarter 'Alte Weberei', Tuebingen","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Verpackungssteuer(packaging tax) imposes an extra payment of fifty cents on any disposable packaging, from coffee cups to ice cream bowls to meal plates. In addition, all disposable cutlery like folks, knives and spoons cost twenty cents extra. Even pizza boxes and the foil around a takeaway falafel are taxed. Regardless of whether they're made from sustainable or recycled material, anything that is one-time use will be costlier, based on the principle that non-production is better than future recycling or disposal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tax is already off to an encouraging start: the first few weeks resulted in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swr.de\u002Fswraktuell\u002Fbaden-wuerttemberg\u002Ftuebingen\u002Fverpackungssteuer-tuebingen-bilanz-nach-einem-monat-100.html\"\u003Eup to 15% less waste in the city's rubbish bins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The number is only set to rise, as more people get in the habit of bringing their own cutlery and restaurants start providing reusable dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth the residents and businesses of Tübingen have risen to the challenge. \"I have stopped stocking any disposable plates,\" said Naresh Taneja, who has owned vegan Indian restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FMaharajaImbiss\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaharaja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Tübingen for 30 years. \"We were already encouraging our customers to bring their own lunchboxes, and now this tax helped even more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYalcin added that the local government provided assistance to deal with the packaging tax and helped them buy dishwashers and reusable cutlery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ruling has not gone down well with Tübingen's only McDonald's, however, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eis suing the city over the tax\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With more than 1,500 restaurants across the country, McDonald's claim it's hard to customise solutions and are arguing for a uniform framework as opposed to rules differing across cities. \"We agree that the best packaging is the one that is not produced in the first place. But local special paths of individual cities or communities stand in the way of a nationally successful and implementable concept,\" said a spokesperson, as the company is implementing targeted trials of their own reusables system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tubingen, view of the bridge decorated with flowers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is not, however, the first time McDonald's has tried to block such a move; the packaging tax was proposed in the German city of Kassel in the 1990s, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\"\u003Ea McDonald's lawsuit overturned the attempt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Palmer is confident that Tübingen's packaging tax will prevail when the case is heard in March 2022. \"We believe that a city has the right to frame such a tax, and then even a big company has to accept that. I can't believe why an international company can't switch to reusables if every small business can do that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPalmer, who was appointed mayor in 2007, is credited by many for shaping Tübingen's green policies, such as obligatory solar photovoltaic systems on roofs and the free buses on Saturdays. \"We have seen a reduction in the emission of carbon dioxide per capita by 40% in the last 15 years, while Tübingen's economy has grown by 40%,\" he said. \"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming and keep growing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile much can be learnt from Tübingen's model, perhaps it's hard to replicate the city's victories, as they emerge from a uniquely supportive social and political landscape. Some worry Tübingen runs the threat of going too far: a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiegel.de\u002Fpanorama\u002Fdie-gruene-hoelle-a-f2760e56-0002-0001-0000-000077531620\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2011 Spiegel article\u003C\u002Fa\u003E described the French Quarters, one of the greenest neighbourhoods in the city – and the country – as a \"green hell\", presenting its residents as intolerant and hypocritically green.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, many feel that Tübingen is too academic to be considered a real-world example. \"You will stay very much in the academic bubble if you live there,\" said Kathi Winkler, who lived in Tübingen for several years before moving to Berlin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the example of Tübingen shows that paving the way for a greener planet can be achieved on a small scale, proving that small can be powerful, beautiful and inspirational.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-21T10:58:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Tübingen: Europe's fiercely vegan, fairy-tale city","headlineShort":"A vegan-loving city sued by McDonald's","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.521637","longitude":"9.057645","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","summaryShort":"Will this fairy-tale town of the future prevail?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-20T20:59:15.476513Z","entity":"article","guid":"fa835272-2991-4d30-b327-40a0827ad13d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:21:46.748591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition","_id":"62df80bf43d9f4586c232fdc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Loosely translated as \"solitude of the forest\", waldeinsamkeit is seeing a post-pandemic renaissance in Germany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEverybody is at it in Germany. They're doing it in the trees in the Black Forest. Out in the magical Harz Mountains. In the national parks of Bavaria when silhouetted in the moonlight. And in the city centre woodlands of Berlin and Munich. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESometimes when completely nude, too\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis isn't a story about the sex lives of Germans or any other nationality, though. Instead, it's an exploration of the country's little-known love affair with something else entirely: \u003Cem\u003Ewaldeinsamkeit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an archaic German term for the feeling of \"forest loneliness\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGermans have a wonderfully evocative dictionary of words with no direct English equivalent, with several descriptive if melancholic expressions all finding a home in conversation. There is \u003Cem\u003Ewanderlust\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a desire to travel), for instance. Or \u003Cem\u003Eheimat \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(an emotional tie to a homeland). Another is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200323-the-travel-ache-you-cant-translate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efernweh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a longing for far-off places).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EType waldeinsamkeit into Google Translate, however, and the immediate result – \"solitude of the forest\" – does little to spell out its true meaning: the enlightened, sublime feeling that can come from being alone in the woods. It is a quintessentially untranslatable German word, and yet owing to the Covid-19 pandemic and ongoing national and local lockdowns (of which Germany and its regions have had several), the spirit of waldeinsamkeit as a philosophy is increasingly alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith more free time, more flexibility and more pressure at home, but also fewer alternative pastimes, Germans have sought calm, fresh air and hermit-like solitude in greater numbers than before. There is a palpable yearning – a feeling of a life being half-lived – and it has not gone unnoticed that the country's restriction-free spruce, conifer, beech, oak and birch forests are busier than ever.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Germans have a wonderfully evocative dictionary of words with no direct English equivalent","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResearch published last summer by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fefi.int\u002Fbonn\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Forest Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bonn found that visits to a monitored tract of forestry in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.land.nrw\u002Fen\u002Fwelcome\"\u003ENorth Rhine-Westphalia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E during the first and second lockdowns experienced an unprecedented explosion of visitors, with forest recreation doubling. The authors concluded that the coronavirus-induced boom revealed that Germans are once again embracing forest solitude and that forests remain a critical infrastructure for national public health and societies at large.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In our recent study, visitors said finding tranquillity was by far the number one motivation to go to the forest,” European Forest Institute researcher Jeanne-Lazya Roux told me. “Another new study we are working on shows there is a renaissance in valuing forests for their spiritual attributes, or re-spiritualisation of the forest, as we call it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor a first timer like me, there was no better introduction to the enduring ideology of waldeinsamkeit than a visit to the Black Forest. At 6,000sq km, the all-encompassing woodland in Baden-Württemberg is almost half the size of Northern Ireland, its vast tracts of birch and beech riddled with folk tales and cuckoo clock-making legends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast summer, I spent a week in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.dasferienland.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFerienland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Black Forest’s evergreen highlands, and I could barely stop grinning. As if sprung from the pages of a fairy tale, this portion of the Black Forest is thick with woodland cover, containing a far-reaching forest path network connected to hamlets, hilltops, high pastures and hangars of Scots pine, elm and oak. It was a joy to find the time to be alone; to lose myself in the forest. Was this the freedom so many Germans sought?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUpon my return, I tracked down Professor Nikolaus Wegmann, a Germanist and literary historian at Princeton University. Over the phone, he told me waldeinsamkeit is being revalidated because people are absorbing the philosophy into their post-pandemic lives. Even if the average German would find it hard to identify the idea's origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"On one level, waldeinsamkeit is a simple compound of the word 'forest' (\u003Cem\u003Ewald\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and 'loneliness' (\u003Cem\u003Eeinsamkeit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), but on another it represents the soul and deeper psyche of Germany,\" said Wegmann, who teaches courses on German literature and its motifs, including waldeinsamkeit. \"Nowadays, the term is taking on a new meaning because of coronavirus: the isolation and loneliness of the forest, in contrast to the world of the city, is increasingly attractive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConsider Germany's landscape and it's not hard to see why. With 90 billion trees, 76 tree species and around 1,215 plant species making up Germany's forests, there's plenty of it to go around. Woodland covers an area of more than 100,000sq km, of which half is state-owned, and in all, 33% of the country's land area is forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECulturally, it is also clear Germany is instinctively preoccupied with woodland. From the folk tales of the Brothers Grimm, where forests symbolise make-believe worlds, to the recent writings of German forester \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.peter-wohlleben.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeter Wohlleben\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (who penned the New York Times bestseller The Hidden Life of Trees: What They Feel, How They Communicate), the forest motif is almost unavoidable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The concept of going into the woods is part of everyday life for us Germans,\" Wegmann told me. \"Even though we're one of the most industrialised nations in the world, you don't need to go looking for a forest here. We are forest people, even as far back as the Roman Empire when the Romans described us as such.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe country that loves public nudity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn age-old Alpine detox tradition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly\"\u003EWhat makes Germans so orderly?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpecifically, Wegmann is referring to Roman historian Publius Cornelius Tacitus, who was the first scholar to write about Germanic tribes and their love of woodlands in Germania, his historical account written in 98 AD of the lands of the ancient Teutons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf Tacitus helped fortify the idea, then it is also true that most sources trace the term waldeinsamkeit to the 18th Century. It was 1797 when the term first appeared in Der Blonde Eckbert (The Fair-Haired Eckbert), a fairy-tale set in the Harz Mountains written by Ludwig Tieck, one of the founding fathers of the zeitgeist-capturing Romantic literary movement. One of the central ideas of the trend was celebrations of nature in harmony with the embrace of isolation and melancholy. In this sense, waldeinsamkeit was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter half of the 19th Century, widely read poet and novelist Joseph Victor von Scheffel created what has been dubbed by academics the \"waldeinsamkeit manual\". In his 12-poem collection Waldeinsamkeit, he describes the forest loneliness cycle at length, from how you should feel when you find yourself alone in a forest to – bizarrely – how to truly appreciate forest fires. His thoughts on being lost, alone in the woods, captured the public imagination at live readings around the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVon Scheffel's experience mirrors that of another, far better-known literary figure. Popular American essayist Ralph Waldo Emerson was deeply engaged with German culture, writing his own ode to forest loneliness in 1858, in which he wrote couplets like, \"The forest is my loyal friend, Like God it useth me.\" The poem's title? Waldeinsamkeit, of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECenturies later, waldeinsamkeit has evolved into a tangible symbol of German identity. From Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and Herman Hesse to Martin Heidegger and Adolf Hitler, all manner of the nation's notable characters embraced the practice of forest loneliness, citing it as a cure for stress. It might also be noted that the Nazis, who fortified the idea of the forest as a symbol of German nationalism, encouraged people to plant German oaks to honour Hitler. At the 1936 Olympic Games, in fact, \"Hitler oaks\" (year-old saplings) were given to gold medal winners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStories like this are everywhere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Waldeinsamkeit is a visible strain throughout German culture and history and the term might have fallen out of favour, but it continues to convey a very romantic notion of the country,” said Austen Hinkley, a doctoral candidate at Princeton's Department of Comparative Literature. “The claim the term is untranslatable and indescribable to non-Germans is also important. It can only really be explained by first-hand experience – total immersion in the German landscape.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA good starting point to better understand forest loneliness is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sdw.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchutzgemeinschaft Deutscher Wald\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the German Forest Protection Association. Set up to build on Germany's love affair with woodlands, the organisation has recently launched a transformational \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sdw.de\u002Fprojekte\u002Fachtsamkeitspfad\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enew mindfulness app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which can be downloaded onto any smartphone or experienced on a purpose-built walking trail outside the association's Bonn headquarters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The app focuses on breathing and mental and physical wellness exercises and has been designed so it can be used in any forest in the world, not just in Germany,\" said project manager Thorsten Müller. \"Whether it's encouraging visitors to focus on breathing, or to take a macro view of the forest – to pay attention to the colours, structures, textures and specific details of an object – the goal is to make people more attentive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The concept of going into the woods is part of everyday life for us Germans","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFollowing the app’s launch, an additional nine mindfulness forest paths have been created across Germany, with signposts where visitors can scan QR codes to better learn how to interact with the woodlands around them. Among those to seek out include forest paths in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hentern.de\u002Fachtsamkeitspfad\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHentern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Hunsrück uplands of Rhineland-Palatinate, as well as in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.treffpunkt-natur-frommenhausen.de\u002Fachtsamkeitspfad.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERottenburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Baden-Württemberg and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourismus.freiamt.de\u002Fde\u002Ferleben-entdecken\u002Faktiv-natur\u002Fwalderlebnis-und-waldsportpfad-rollberg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFreiamt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, deep within in the Black Forest. It might seem counterintuitive to seek loneliness and escape from the world armed with a smartphone, but, according to Müller, it's about intensifying the feeling of being alone in a forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's clear to see the effects of forest activities on people's mental wellbeing, particularly during this pandemic,\" Müller told me. \"As a psychologist, I can see how important the two elements of mindfulness and forestry are. Ultimately, it's about finding connections to the forest – and that's waldeinsamkeit in a nutshell.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPost-pandemic, many of us will find ourselves drawn to Germany and its forests to be alone, to rediscover our roots. Deep within these woodlands, venturing down paths that curve away from civilisation, we will listen intently to the whisper on the breeze and the soft crush of leaves beneath our shoes. We'll want to explore further and deeper, to not merely discover a forest but perhaps to look for the larger world within ourselves. In this place of forests and fairy tales, it will seem like the only proper thing to do.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-15T20:42:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Waldeinsamkeit: Germany's cherished forest tradition","headlineShort":"Germany's obsession with tree therapy","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Loosely translated as \"solitude of the forest\", waldeinsamkeit is seeing a post-pandemic renaissance in Germany.","summaryShort":"It's been practised for centuries by all manner of notable German romantics","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:03:04.365752Z","entity":"article","guid":"9a75e775-ce03-48a7-ad45-70a746a7e1a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:24:08.797021Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","_id":"62df7ef043d9f46d9f1d0367","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are two immediate signs that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the coast of Devon in South West England, isn't your usual seaside village. The first is that the only access is through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fclovelly-visitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which charges £8.50 per adult for entrance (£4.95 for children). The second is the sledges. They stand at attention at the top of the cobbled walk that runs through the town's steep lanes of cottages and down to Clovelly's harbour, 120m below, ready for the next time a resident comes back from the shops and needs to lug their purchases home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey might seem out of place to a first-time visitor. But both the visitor centre, opened in 1988, and the sledges, which largely replaced donkeys by the 1970s, are ways in which this 1,000-year-old community has adapted to modern times – while still preserving the rhythms of the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven today, there are no cars in Clovelly. (It would be too steep for them to get access even if the town wanted them.) There are no chain stores, no traffic noises, no light pollution. Instead, there are cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages, small boats bobbing in the 14th-Century stone quay, fat bees and butterflies feeding on flowers, and, almost everywhere, the sound, smells and sight of the Atlantic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moving to a teeny tiny cottage on the edge of a cliff was something I never imagined,\" said Ellie Jarvis, who came from London to Clovelly for six months in 2007 to help run her family's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovellysilk.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esilk workshop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and never left. \"But what is so beautiful and unique about Clovelly is not only the cobbles and all the obvious things that you see as a tourist. It's the fact that you're living with the past.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that past extends a long way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th Century, when it was listed in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalarchives.gov.uk\u002Fdomesday\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDomesday Book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's earliest public record, Clovelly was owned by William the Conqueror himself. The king later gave the village to his wife \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.newworldencyclopedia.org\u002Fentry\u002FMatilda_of_Flanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMatilda of Flanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's first crowned queen. It still retains a quaint, yesteryear feel – a big part of why it was a main location for the films Sense & Sensibility (2008) and The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society (2018); and why, over the centuries, the village has inspired artists and writers from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20140915-how-turner-set-painting-free\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJMW Turner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to Charles Dickens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFew have seen Clovelly as more of a muse than the 19th-Century novelist and poet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fbiography\u002FCharles-Kingsley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECharles Kingsley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, however, who lived here as a child. \"Now that you have seen the dear old Paradise you know what was the inspiration of my life before I met you,\" he wrote to his wife after her first visit in 1854.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's true that there are, of course, other picturesque, historical fishing villages in the area without entrance fees. But what appears authentic on first sight can collapse at a closer look. Many idyllic spots have been hollowed out by holiday lets\u003Cstrong\u003E,\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E leaving them bursting with tourists in summer and emptied out in the off season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Clovelly, where some 300 people live in the village's 83 cottages, the experience is the reverse. Get past the visitor centre and its souvenir shop, and there is a real – and vibrant – group of residents behind it all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is an actual community that lives here,\" said Cass Mcfarlane, who moved here in autumn 2021 from London and runs a sweet shop in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fkingsley-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKingsley Cottage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small museum devoted to the writer. \"And it's an active, bubbly community, from all ages and walks of life. There's always someone to see and talk to.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough I'd been to the village before, I first saw this for myself in the run up to Christmas. Everyone in my own town, 15 miles south of Clovelly, had been asking if we were going to see Clovelly's Christmas lights. When we arrived, the lanes were even more packed than they had been at the height of the summer tourist season. A band of local schoolchildren played Christmas carols; people greeted one another on the cobbled streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Very often a visitor would possibly make, I think, the mistake of thinking that it was a sleepy village. And it really isn't,\" said Jarvis. \"There's a lot going on.\" Festivals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fevents\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eevents\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, theatre. At the same time, she added, \"There's a more gentle way of life here. I'm forever telling my children that there's always someone watching them. They cannot misbehave – there's always an audience.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat tight-knit, dynamic aspect of Clovelly's community has been nurtured by design, according to the owner of Clovelly, Hon. John Rous. \"It was always important to me that Clovelly should remain a living village,\" he said when we met at his estate office, a jumble of pleasant stone buildings in the shadow of Clovelly's 12th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclovellyparish.org.uk\u002Fparish-organisations-and-contacts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAll Saints church\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I didn't want to go down the holiday lets line. I didn't want to go down even a timeshare basis.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow 71, Rous inherited the village from his mother, a countess, in 1983. This is the other reason Clovelly is unusual: it is one of the UK's only privately owned villages. Not only that, but the Rous family is only the third family to own it since the 1200s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the heyday of aristocracy, this was common. A landowning family would not only employ people to work their farms, but lease them homes and shops, too. But in the same way that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-30004491\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eso many of the grand houses of yesteryear had to be given up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so too did the villages. It was no different at Clovelly, where, by the 1980s, Rous' family had been selling off parts of the estate – which spreads over 2,000 acres of North Devon – to be able to finance the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a very difficult time. There was not much income being generated from the estate – a little bit of tourism income,\" Rous said. \"I thought, I don't really want to get involved in a sort of managed decline. We've got to try and stop the rot and be self-financing. And so, I realised that we needed to make some major investment in tourism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis meant building the visitor centre and, for the first time, charging an entrance fee to the village, rather than a car park charge. To his surprise, visitor numbers went up, not down. (Today, there are about 150,000 a year.) Still, the move was viewed with scepticism. Even now, more than 30 years later, a quick look on Tripadvisor shows that plenty of visitors remain irritated about having to pay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut that income has kept Clovelly intact, Rous said. And it has allowed for a programme of renovation of the cottages, some of which date to at least the 15th Century – and all of which are subject to the wet, wild, windy weather that this part of the English coastline is known for, with all of its upkeep challenges, from mould to damaged roofs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe tourism income has also allowed Clovelly to maintain an unusual policy for this part of the world: there are no second homes or absentee landlords allowed. (Rous, the only landlord, lives on the estate himself, in Clovelly Manor; while the original manor burned down in 1943 in World War Two, its walled gardens, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fseeing-clovelly\u002Fclovelly-court-gardens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly Court Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, survived intact and are included in the visitor fee.) As a condition of their tenancy, residents are required to live here full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor longer-term residents like Jarvis, that meant having to change houses several times as her family expanded. Her two boys, aged nine and 13, have grown up here. There are certain days of the year where multiple households move at once in a kind of game of musical chairs, but with sledges instead of moving vans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpeaking of the sledges, residents say that these are not just quirks. They are an integral part of Clovelly life. Everybody has their own, which they keep at the top of the village. When locals order groceries, the delivery vans know, on seeing \"Clovelly\" on the address, to give a 15-minute heads up before they arrive so the customer has time to trudge to the top of the village and get their sledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is no secret way of getting things down,\" said Mcfarlane. \"This morning, I saw a gentleman with a new washing machine and a new cooker. Last year, a grand piano came down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany residents see it as a small price to pay for the privilege of living in such an idyllic spot. At high tide, Jarvis' boys can jump from their kitchen door straight into the sea. Other residents agree that the inconveniences are worth it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Once you've made your mind up, the transition from gas and central heating to putting logs and coal on your sledge and letting gravity bring it down, and chopping wood and making the Raven [wood stove], it just feels right,\" said Dave Francis, who moved to Clovelly in 2020 and runs the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdonkeyshoeshop.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDonkey Shoe Shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his wife, Jakki. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's easy for visitors to forget, the Clovelly estate is far more than the village. It includes 700 acres of woodland, three large farms, the working harbour, gardens and even a sawmill. Some 80 employees keep it all going. That all brings challenges – from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.act.gov.au\u002Fact-nrm\u002Fbiodiversity\u002Fbiodiversity-investment-plan\u002Fclimate-change-adaptation\u002Fdieback\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edieback\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the woodlands to garden upgrades to the unending upkeep of the cottages. (\"The nasty thing about that is that you could spend loads and loads of money and hardly notice a difference,\" Rous remarked, especially since the restorations are done with historical sensitivity, such as reroofing in stone or slate instead of cheaper materials.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the challenges, Rous, who speaks with passion about every aspect of running the estate, continues to look forwards. He wants to encourage Clovelly's burgeoning crafting industry (together with silk-maker Jarvis, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclovellysoapcompany.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoap-maker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fcraft-workshops\u002Fclovelly-pottery\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epotter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also have workshops here), as well as the village's historical links to fishing and the sea. He's even thinking about introducing small-scale oyster farming in the bay. \"We've got to continually evolve and adapt to changing circumstances,\" he said, even while preserving the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Jarvis and others, when it comes to finding this balance, Clovelly succeeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It isn't an easy way of life; it isn't straightforward. You can't compare living here to anywhere else,\" Jarvis said. \"But you just fall in love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think you live here with all of your heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-22T10:19:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The village once owned by England's first queen","headlineShort":"The UK village that you pay to enter","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.9981","longitude":"-4.3991","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","summaryShort":"It was once owned by William the Conqueror himself","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-21T23:38:15.957254Z","entity":"article","guid":"844a17ab-1c22-42b7-9760-a2061721800e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-22T15:11:21.884081Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past","_id":"631155cb43d9f4573772485b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdavid-perry"],"bodyIntro":"This picturesque village exists in a time warp that takes visitors back centuries – but the principles that keep the town alive are as forward-thinking as they come.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe half-timbered houses, the isolated location deep in eastern Germany's forested hinterlands, the eerie rock pinnacles bounding the town on one side and the tempestuous Elbe River on the other – throw in an evil witch and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schmilka.de\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchmilka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E would be straight out of a 19th-Century Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Or, at least, of that age: the buildings go back around two centuries, the food and beer are prepared using techniques just as old, and I had to run up and down the town's one street (cobblestoned, of course) to find a wi-fi signal. Talk about a time warp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Schmilka used to be a holiday village 200 years ago,\" said Andrea Bigge, a local art historian. It is again, she added, but it still feels like it exists in that era. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You have time here,\" added guest-house proprietor Ansgar Rieger. \"No schedules, no lists. You come to Schmilka to 'do nothing'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA day trip from Dresden, Schmilka lies just barely within the German border with Czechia. It was founded around 1582 by Czech lumberjacks – the town's name even comes from a Slavic word meaning \"a place where timber is harvested\". Pitch-makers taking advantage of the local spruce trees and ferrymen working the Elbe soon followed, and by 1665, the hamlet had become more substantial. People seeking a country escape appeared in the 1800s, but Schmilka never got much beyond a rural backwater enclave. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo it was a bit of a head-scratcher to me that this barely-there townlet is one of the most respected wellness retreats in Saxony, one of its most sustainable and organic communities, as well as one of the state's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flpbvt.org\u002Fsaxony\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost beautiful\u003C\u002Fa\u003E villages. The food in Schmilka's restaurants, the beer from its brewery, the bread in its bakery, even the furniture in its hotels and guesthouses are prepared with sustainability at the forefront. The mill still uses water to grind its grain on millstones, the brewery uses 200-year-old techniques, and the buildings, all original, are made of stone, wood and daub. Plus its wellness offerings draw on old traditions like saunas and baths, and lean heavily on the surrounding outdoors for experiences like nature walks. I thought I had fallen down the rabbit hole; Schmilka looks, feels, sounds and even tastes the way it did centuries ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile locals seem to love this way of life – and the town owes its survival to it – Schmilka's present-day success can be largely attributed to one man.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv13fq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEntrepreneur Sven-Eric Hitzer fell in love with Schmilka as a rock-climbing youth during the East German regime. \"It was just a border clearance [town] then, but the wilderness was wonderful,\" he said. \"In the '90s, I came back to Schmilka to spend time in nature with my family. I bought a house with the intention of having a place to stay when we came here. Then another and…\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd he couldn't buy them fast enough; Hitzer discovered his childhood playground was in trouble. After 41 years of austere communism and the economic slump immediately following German reunification, Schmilka, like so many rural towns in the old East Germany, was slipping into ruin. People moved away and houses were abandoned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It crashed,\" Bigge remembered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"And it looked it,\" said town guide Christin Glaser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInitially, Hitzer had no other agenda than preservation. But by 2007, inspired by advice from his wife, he formulated a plan to save not just a few houses but the whole town by turning Schmilka into a sustainable retreat. \"We were all for it,\" said Bigge. \"There was no pushback.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It would give all of us a future,\" Rieger added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut first, Hitzer had to glow-up Schmilka's negatives. The town is remote. It's tiny. Hardly anyone lives there. There are no schools or churches, and its location inside the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saechsische-schweiz.de\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESaxon Switzerland National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E puts a hard stop on any new construction. Technically speaking, Schmilka is not even its own municipality; it is the southernmost extension of the larger town of Bad Schandau downriver.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv13p8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat said, it's not too difficult to paint a remote country town, situated in a park famed for hiking and mountain climbing, as an escape for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated in the narrow Elbe Valley, Schmilka is crammed into a cleft that is at once dramatic and cosy. Looking down the river at dusk, with the rock stacks of the Ore Mountains like a row of hands reaching up to pull the night down, I literally stopped in my tracks. I could see why Hitzer wanted to preserve this village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When a house becomes vacant, Hitzer buys it and refurbishes it,\" Glaser said, as we talked in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schmilka.de\u002Fmuehlenbiergarten\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMühlenstrube's beer garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Nearby, hikers and visitors lounged with organic beer and sausages in the shade of a massive chestnut tree. She pointed to the water mill, explaining that it was a hotel during the East German tenure but Hitzer reverse-engineered it to grind grain, as it had 400 years ago. The brewery and bakery, too, were reverted to their initial purposes (and the mill provides ground wheat for both). \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schmilka.de\u002Fweitere-unterkuenfte\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schmilka.de\u002Fhotel-helvetia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHelvetia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are old homes. Even the small handful of properties not part of Hitzer's project are jumping on the refurbishment bandwagon; the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fburgschoena\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDie Burg Schöna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the guest house across the river that Rieger runs, was once part of a defunct sawmill compound.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHitzer even found a benefit, albeit an indirect one, from the Elbe's notorious floods: the early townsfolk had built everything out of stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It didn't take long for the town to figure that out, even in 1582, and things haven't changed since,\" Bigge said. \"Look at the houses; all the half-timbers are on the second floor, away from floodwaters and where people here really live. All the houses here are made of stone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt dawned on me, like it did Hitzer, that the biggest reason Schmilka looks so traditional is because it is – and there was no other option.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv13s9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHitzer admitted his ideas evolved with time. For instance, even as he was buying up properties to turn Schmilka into a nature retreat, he had never thought of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schmilka.de\u002Fphilosophie\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eorganic food as a business mandate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until the day he went for a physical as part of a life-insurance application and \"did not get a clean bill of health\". It occurred to him that if organic fare was good for his well-being, it had to be so for others and could be applied on a larger scale at Schmilka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I decided that the food I eat should be free of toxins,\" he said. \"Only later did I realise that healthily produced foods are also good for the environment. It's not just about me and my health, it's about sustainable business in general.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are some grumbles, of course. Glaser mentioned that some residents, while not against Hitzer's idea, did not go green either. And some of the spin-doctoring has its limits; while modern Schmilka bills its limited wi-fi as a way for visitors to reconnect with nature and each other, Bigge and Glaser clued me in that this was Hitzer \"making lemonade\" with the fact that the valley has always interrupted phone signals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cv140j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeing so close to nature, Schmilka is acutely impacted by it. \"Schmilka has had to face some serious tests: floods, landslides, mudslides, Covid,\" Hitzer said, \"and now forest fire. There were fires on the Czech side of the park in early August.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet Bigge, Glaser and Rieger agree that Schmilka now has something to fight for. They also agree that Hitzer turned Schmilka into a forward-thinking town with an ironically backward-looking philosophy; the town is not stuck in the past so much as it willingly walked back to it… with electricity and central heating, naturally. This is a spa town, after all. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What we call 'sustainability' today was the way of life 200 years ago,\" Bigge said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We grow our own vegetables,\" Glaser added, explaining that sustainability, a passionately embraced concept in Germany, is not a touristy gimmick. \"We recycle and use recycled materials. We utilise waste heat from the brewery and bakery for the town. Even our detergents are organic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"What we call 'sustainability' today was the way of life 200 years ago\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe company Hitzer formed in 2007 now runs Schmilka as a business. What drew people to Schmilka centuries ago – the forests, the quiet – do so again. Hitzer positioned the town as a decompression chamber for the world-weary, an HQ for hikers and rock climbers, and a health and wellness retreat for people exhausted by Covid, all under the banner of sustainability practices and organic cuisine. And it works beautifully. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESipping organic ale in the beer garden, serenaded by the creaking waterwheel of the mill and surrounded by pastel-coloured buildings – all restored to their historical glory – I found myself embracing the time warp. Hotels are booked, yoga and massage therapies lined up, and the influx of visitors constant. The town is alive and well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-02T00:59:18.024Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Schmilka: The progressive German town stuck in the past","headlineShort":"Germany's time-warp town","image":["p0cv12zg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.8936758","longitude":"14.2249211","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cv12zg"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210314-waldeinsamkeit-germanys-cherished-forest-tradition","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This picturesque village exists in a time warp that takes visitors back centuries – but the principles that keep the town alive are as forward-thinking as they come.","summaryShort":"A forward-thinking village with an ironically backward-looking philosophy","tag":["tag\u002Fheritage","tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-02T01:00:41.797424Z","entity":"article","guid":"0ca8dacf-f8ac-454f-893c-b03cb736eb5c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-02T01:08:55.309761Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220902-schmilka-the-progressive-german-town-stuck-in-the-past","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgermany","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_germany_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past","_id":"62df7ec243d9f457237324bb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the 16th Century, effervescent sima was a more desired drink than beer and has since become Finland's go-to beverage for ushering in spring.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFinland is known for its triple \"s\" – \u003Cem\u003Esisu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (resilience), sauna and Sibelius. But for centuries, there has also been a fourth, more subtle \"s\": \u003Cem\u003Esima\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a fermented drink made with water, sugar, lemon and yeast. Today, effervescent and virtually non-alcoholic sima is beloved across the nation, most often consumed by children and adults alike as a special drink to celebrate Vappu, or May Day, a time when Finns flood the outdoors to embrace the coming of spring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sima's roots stem from the ancient alcoholic drink mead","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI had my first taste of homemade sima, its soft bubbles sparkling in the spring sunshine, 35 years ago in my friend's garden in the Finnish city of Pieksämäki. It was the eve of Vappu, and the drink's sweet acidity left a memory in my brain that has stayed with me to this day. As it also happened to be my fourth birthday, it took some time for me to realise that the celebratory refreshment had nothing to do with my special day, but instead was part of a rich piece of Finnish history that stretches back centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESima's roots stem from the ancient alcoholic drink mead, or honey wine, which was widely drunk in early Bronze Age Europe. Mead, which in its simplest form is fermented honey and water, wasn't specific to Europe – it's also mentioned, for example, in India's Rigveda, an ancient collection of Vedic Sanskrit hymns. But, perhaps due to TV series such as Game of Thrones and The Vikings, mead's modern-day fame lies on the shoulders of 8th-Century Vikings, who enjoyed a highly alcoholic mix of water, honey and herbs such as meadowsweet and harrow. For them, mead was a drink from the gods that gave people strength to win battles. In fact, Vikings held mead in such a high regard that aspiring chieftains would build their own mead drinking halls to gain their followers' respect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the citrusy mead that more closely resembles today's sima didn't dock on Finnish shores such as those of the seaside city of Turku until the 16th Century, imported from the Hanseatic Northern European towns in what is modern-day Germany and Latvia. This 16th-Century drink – which, contrary to today's low-alcohol sima, contained up to 17% alcohol due to a longer fermentation process – was a more desired drink in Finland than beer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the busiest 16th-Century Finnish importers was savvy merchant and shipowner Valpuri Erkintytär Innamaa, a strong-willed woman who helped make sima the iconic Finnish Vappu beverage it is today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Innamaa's day, Turku was still part of Sweden. When Gustav I was crowned king in 1523, he recognised the city's strategic importance, renovated its dilapidated castle and occasionally visited. While in town, he enjoyed Turku's sima, making it a fashionable drink among the bourgeois. According to Seija Irmeli Kulmala, author of the recipe book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.karisto.fi\u002Fsivu\u002Ftuote\u002Fsima\u002F2167400\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESima – a festive drink made with nature's ingredients\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"King Gustav I of Sweden loved the sima he tasted in Turku. He created a sima boom,\" she said. \"Sima was imported [from Riga and Lubeck] in vast quantities and its popularity grew.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInnamaa's first husband had received a royal warrant of appointment from the Swedish court residing at Turku Castle to provide goods he had imported. When he died in 1563, Innamaa took over the merchant business, becoming the wealthiest Turku merchant with the city's biggest fleet of ships. Spurred by the craze for sima that Gustav I had created in Turku, Innamaa started importing more of the increasingly popular drink from Baltic ports, spreading it at least as far as Stockholm. In the Swedish capital at the time, sima was nearly as expensive as wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInnamaa's success in business was remarkable, as traditionally her late husband's inheritance would have been transferred to her new spouse. Instead, she took control of the business herself – even after marrying three more times. Her success made her an easy target during the 1560s political turmoil that followed Gustav I's death, and she was attacked and looted more than once. Yet, according to Kristiina Vuori, author of the historical novel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tammi.fi\u002Fkirja\u002Fkristiina-vuori\u002Fkaarnatuuli\u002F9789513188993\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWestern Winds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E based on Innamaa's life, Innamaa wasn't afraid of enemies. \"She even travelled to Stockholm to tell the king himself about the injustices she suffered,\" Vuori said. \"Despite being a woman, [Innamaa] wouldn't be silenced.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181016-how-the-finnish-survive-without-small-talk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the Finnish survive without small talk\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190308-norways-wild-isle-population-of-1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway's far-flung isle with a Viking spirit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt took more than two centuries for sima to drip from high society's goblets to working-class glasses in Finnish homes. In Innamaa's day, sima remained an expensive upper-class beverage because both of the drink's main ingredients, honey and lemon, were still a rarity in the region. \"Because of honey, sima was very expensive and only the richest bourgeois and Turku Castle's court could afford it,\" said Vuori.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the 18th Century sugar had replaced honey, but was a rare commodity as well, dependent on imported sugarcane until Europe began producing sugar from beets. Once Finland's first sugar refinery was established in Turku in the 1750s, increasing numbers of Finns were able to make and afford sweet luxuries like sima. During this time, working class people could get a taste of sima at special events like the local vicarage's springtime gatherings. Decades later, that changed, and people could enjoy it more often, \"when sima's ingredients – sugar and lemon – became more readily available in the 19th Century,\" said Kulmala.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1880s, Finland also began commercially producing yeast, making sima even easier to make on a large scale. Local companies could suddenly produce the drink with more consistency, and it was sold in kiosks and cafes across Finland. By the early 20th Century, sima, now virtually non-alcoholic, became the go-to beverage of Vappu, the festival to celebrate spring's arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Tiina Kiiskinen, curator at Helsinki's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotellijaravintolamuseo.fi\u002Fenglish\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel and Restaurant Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the connection to Vappu came about thanks to the Finnish Temperance Movement, which first gained popularity at the end of the 19th Century and swelled to become an ideological social crusade that resulted in a full ban of alcohol between 1919 and 1932. \"Around the turn of the 20th Century, there was a strong will to find a non-alcoholic alternative to drink at the celebrations,\" Kiiskinen said. \"Sima was popular because it was cheap and resembled sparkling wine. Advertising further solidified sima's status as a May Day drink.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore than 100 years on, the temperance movement has lost momentum but sima remains a quintessential part of Finnish Vappu. The annual celebrations stretch from 30 April to 1 or 2 May, during which market squares fill with stalls selling food and balloons, people dress up in quirky costumes like colourful wigs and fake red noses, and young and old alike gather to sip sima and enjoy a spring day out with friends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe reach of sima also extends beyond the festivities. Young students learn to ferment sima in schools; restaurants offer sima on their Vappu menus alongside herring, potato salad and sweet pastries; and big breweries bottle and sell their own versions of the drink. Each spring, shop shelves fill with varieties of sima, and newspapers review the best brands. Furthermore, artisanal food culture has turned homemade sima into a trend, with creative home brewers experimenting with new flavours ranging from spruce to cucumber to rhubarb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI, too, have dabbled in making my own. Following Kulmala's sima recipe from her book, I added pineapple and orange to the traditional lemon rind and juice, mixed everything together with sugar, then poured over near-boiling water, adding a pinch of yeast when the water had cooled down a little. After waiting eight hours, I strained the sima into bottles and topped each with a few raisins. Once a day for almost a week, I opened the bottles to let the pressure escape, and, once the raisins rose to the surface, I knew the fermentation process was complete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis spring, while tracing the path of sima from Viking drink to a Finnish spring tipple, I ventured to Turku with a bottle of my homemade sima. In the Turku castle's cobblestone courtyard, I imagined being back in Innamaa's days, when barrels of sima would be hauled into the castle and enjoyed by the court. I popped the cork, my fingers getting sticky as the lightly pressured drink fizzed onto my hands. A lemon scent surrounded me and pulled me back to childhood. I took the year's first sip of sima, let the citric sweetness roll on my tongue and made a toast to the rich history of Finland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-20T13:23:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A Finnish drink with a heroic past","headlineShort":"A Nordic drink more desired than beer","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.4353462","longitude":"22.2265104","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the 16th Century, effervescent sima was a more desired drink than beer and has since become Finland's go-to beverage for ushering in spring.","summaryShort":"In Finland, this fermented drink is as celebrated as spring itself","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:06:21.362408Z","entity":"article","guid":"da1294a4-843b-440d-b576-b4bd155b981e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:27:49.011871Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210519-a-finnish-drink-with-a-heroic-past","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","_id":"62df7edc43d9f458351f38ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Long thought to be extinct, the dorona grape was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians. Now, its chance rediscovery has ignited a revival in Venice's wine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the garden of an abandoned monastery, on an ancient cemetery island in the Venetian Lagoon, I found myself surrounded by life. A man bustled past with a wheelbarrow full of brambles; two women sat on the ground, tending to flowering grapevines about to burst into fruit. Preparations were afoot on the Isola di San Michele for Venice's festival season, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lagunanelbicchiere.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaguna nel Bicchiere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit organisation devoted to the propagation of Venetian viticulture, would be providing the wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In late spring and early summer there are quite a few festivals,\" explained Colleen McCann, a long-time member of the organisation, as she showed me around San Michele's vineyard. \"Each \u003Cem\u003Ecampo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [city square] has its own different celebration, and on the solstice in June there's three days of festivities at the [Church of San Giovanni in] Bragora. We go there and offer people an \u003Cem\u003Eombra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [small glass] of wine, with the idea being to let the city know about Venice's historical vineyards.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to the vineyard we were standing in on San Michele, Laguna nel Bicchiere currently preserves three others – with origins going back centuries – on the Venetian islands of Giudecca, Sant'Elena and Vignole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELaguna nel Bicchiere is not a commercial operation – they can't sell the wine, only give it away – and the vineyards are staffed by enthusiastic volunteers, motivated purely by the revival and preservation of Venetian winemaking. In the name of research, amid the mighty oak barrels of the monastery's cellar, I tried a couple of ombras myself. The wine was the colour of honey, rich and robust – tangibly imbued, even to my dilettante palate, with the salty taste of the lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenetian winemaking has a long history that has been documented as far back as 2,500 years ago; until 1100, there was even a vineyard in the Piazza San Marco. That's despite the unique challenges associated with growing vines on islands prone to flooding, where saltwater lies just a few feet beneath the shallow earth. Stressed vines produce the best wines, though, according to winemaking wisdom, and this was certainly seen to be the case for Venice's indigenous \u003Cem\u003Edorona\u003C\u002Fem\u003E grape. The golden wine it produced was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians in centuries past, including by the doges – Venice's powerful heads of state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Archival research shows that the dorona was considered the doges' favourite variety because of its golden colour and the quality of the wine made from it – balanced and structured,\" said Valeria Necchio, a Venice-based food writer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe dorona's dominance was not to last, however. \"The diseases that spread across Europe at the turn of the last century – phylloxera, powdery and downy mildew – took a huge toll on the overall production and on the economy of the islands that were devoted to winemaking, like Mazzorbo, Sant'Erasmo and Le Vignole,\" said Necchio. \"The workforce was redirected from fieldwork to factory work – for example, in the glass furnaces of Murano.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ease of importing wine from more reliable terroirs won out, and dorona wine was replaced on Venetian tables with those from elsewhere in Italy and beyond. In the 1950s and '60s, tourism came to further displace agriculture as the predominant industry in the lagoon. Then, most devastating of all, came a catastrophic high tide in 1966, which caused the worst flood in the history of Venice and drowned the few remaining vines. Venetian wine, along with the dorona grape itself, was a thing extinct, consigned to the history books.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOr so it was thought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2002, local winemaker Gianluca Bisol was exploring the island of Torcello when he noticed an unusual golden grape gleaming on a gnarled vine in a garden beside the Byzantine Church of Santa Maria Assunta. \"It was an accidental discovery, but when I saw those three dorona plants for the first time, a great emotion came over me,\" said Bisol. \"It was immediately clear to me that they were different from any vines I'd seen before. Nicoletta, who looked after the garden, told me that indeed they were different – a native grape variety from the Venetian Lagoon. I was mesmerised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnsure if it could be true, Bisol arranged for DNA tests, which confirmed the grapes were indeed the storied dorona.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I learnt more about what I had to face in order to bring back this time-honoured Venetian tradition","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter poring over historical viticultural texts and scouring local vineyards and gardens, Bisol discovered a total of 88 surviving dorona vines on Torcello and the surrounding islands. A key player was Gastone Vio, a farmer on the island of Sant'Erasmo, who provided scores of dorona vines to the Bisol family and whose planting techniques had enabled the survival of his crop through the flood of 1966. \"Thanks to the conversations and exchanges I had with other growers and winemakers working in the lagoon, I learnt more about what I had to face in order to bring back this time-honoured Venetian tradition – viticulture,\" Bisol said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe learned how the vines needed to be planted far apart, to allow the roots to grow sideways to avoid the saltwater; and how wells had to be dug hundreds of feet deep to reach the fresh water needed to flush the vineyards. Bisol found a medieval monastery on the nearby island of Mazzorbo with a walled vineyard and put to work what he had learned. Ten years and much experimentation later, the first vintage of his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.venissa.it\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVenissa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wine was produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGianluca's son, Matteo Bisol, now oversees operations at Venissa, and he met me off the boat to show me around Mazzorbo. In contrast to the tumbledown vineyards of San Michele, Venissa is a swanky commercial enterprise – a Michelin-starred restaurant and luxurious lodgings have been added to their portfolio in recent years. However, they share one of Laguna nel Bicchiere's fundamental principles. \"We're really serious about the quality of the wine,\" Matteo told me. \"But for us, it represents something way bigger: bringing back a part of the history of Venice to the lagoon after we almost lost this wine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe rediscovery of the dorona has ignited a revival in Venetian wine. Laguna nel Bicchiere now grows a mixture of dorona and other, non-indigenous, grapes, and produces mixed-grape wines. Venissa's whites are made with 100% dorona grapes, and their vineyard is the only one dedicated solely to its commercial production. The limitations of the lagoon mean it will always remain a boutique enterprise; the estate produces 3,500 bottles per year, which are sold mainly in the immediate area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenissa's dorona wine has won acclaim for its full body and bold, dry taste, thought to be very similar – thanks to the dorona grape's unique profile and traditional, organic growing methods – to the wine so prized by the doges. It carries an unmistakable hint of saltiness, and pairs extremely well with the lagoon ingredients served in Venissa's restaurant, like oysters, lavender and Sant'Erasmo honey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we wandered through the vineyards, Matteo pointed out a large canal dug between the vines to rid them of floodwater from the lagoon. Crouching down, he signalled towards some tiny tufts of green, gamely sprouting amid the vines. \"This is a sea herb; this one's samphire; this is \u003Cem\u003Eerba stella \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[buck's horn]. These three grow only in a salt environment. If we move a little bit higher\" – he pointed a few inches to the left – \"here we still see some of the sea plants, but we can also see the margarita [daisy]; this is a mixed area. If we go here, this is the freshwater version: normal land, not salt land, just a few inches away. It's all very stressful for the vine, but it's important for the quality of the wine that the vine needs to struggle. No pain, no gain.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a great metaphor for the genius of the Venetian people, who were able to create something amazing in a situation that was almost impossible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat philosophy was tested to its limits this year, which marks another milestone in the dorona grape's proud history of near-extinctions and triumphant resurrections. \"We were very afraid at the beginning of this current season, because the vines are still suffering from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-50452688\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe 2019 high tide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the second biggest ever,\" Matteo said. The vines survived – just – but in 2021, they struggled even more than in 2020. \"All plants keep substances in reserve, which they use to survive after difficult years; we didn't know at the beginning of 2022 if the vines would have enough to survive. We were very happy, because the grapes showed us their resilience once again.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenetian wine is an improbability; but then, so is Venice itself. \"For us, the dorona is a symbol,\" Matteo said. \"Venice is really the struggle of the human being to create a city in the middle of a lagoon. Dorona, in this terroir, in this situation – it's a great metaphor for the genius of the Venetian people, who were able to create something amazing in a situation that was almost impossible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eoffers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life though cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-20T10:15:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The resurgence of Venice's prized dorona grape","headlineShort":"The rediscovery of a golden fruit","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4858","longitude":"12.4073","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long thought to be extinct, the dorona grape was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians. Now, its chance rediscovery has ignited a revival in Venice's wine.","summaryShort":"It has a proud history of near-extinctions and triumphant resurrections","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-19T23:18:35.400908Z","entity":"article","guid":"39ffb36a-92b8-4c17-aa60-c9118620653e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-20T01:26:43.789756Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region","_id":"62df818643d9f460d03dfc62","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Four hundred years after the Ottomans destroyed a region's once-proud winemaking tradition, locals are reviving it.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStraddling the fertile valleys of the south Caucasus Mountains, Georgia is commonly believed to be the birthplace of wine, with the practice originating around 6,000BC. Not only were Stone Age Georgians believed to be the first humans to ferment grapes by burying its juice underground for the winter, but today, Georgian identity remains inseparable from winemaking, with wine long being the engine of the Georgian economy. In fact, among invaders, it was historically said that if you wanted to defeat Georgia, you needed to first destroy its vineyards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"VIDEO: Restoring Georgia's ancient wine culture","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis is exactly what happened in Georgia's southern Samtskhe-Javakheti region in the 1500s. For centuries, this key winemaking region was home to ancient Georgians who lived in hollowed-out caves in the nearby volcanic rock and constructed terraced vineyards down its slopes. In the 1550s, invading Ottoman Turks destroyed Samtskhe-Javakheti's vineyards and went on to rule the area for more than 300 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, in recent years, locals have begun replanting indigenous grapes, restoring their ancestors' once-proud terraced vineyards to their former glory and harvesting wine in the region for the first time in 400 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fhidden-histories\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Reel's Hidden Histories playlist\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-25T20:22:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Georgia's forgotten wine region","headlineShort":"Georgia's forgotten wine region","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.5479","longitude":"43.2776","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Four hundred years after the Ottomans destroyed a region's once-proud winemaking tradition, locals are reviving it.","summaryShort":"The community is harvesting wine for the first time in 400 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-24T20:22:49.079833Z","entity":"article","guid":"aa7cf5fc-e42d-4a34-bd8f-481b6c5eff9c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:48.063645Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211124-georgias-forgotten-wine-region","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","_id":"62df806643d9f4573d6a67ae","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even the world's highest point gets overcrowded.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThrough the window of a bus one summer, I remember being awestruck by the faint outline of a giant triangular mass of rock and snow, shrouded in a swirl of clouds for a brief minute, towering over Nepal's famous Pokhara valley and its eponymous city. Seeing an imposing peak dominate the skyline of a bustling town was unlike any other first glimpse of a Himalayan mountain I had experienced in my decade-long exploration in the Himalayas, either in India or in Nepal. I was quite amused that I didn't have to trek for days to get a glimpse of the elusive beauty; I merely had to sit in a bus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe mountain that inadvertently captured my imagination was neither Everest nor any of the country's seven other peaks that are more 8,000m tall, but a relatively lowly peak whose height would easily betray its beauty. Turns out, I wasn't alone in my obsession. Decades before me, another man also fell in love with this mountain – and left behind a rather quirky legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal\"\u003EThe Kung Fu nuns of Nepal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture\"\u003EThe birthplace of Canada’s mountain culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160311-a-story-of-reincarnation-in-nepal\"\u003EA story of rebirth in Nepal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMachhapuchhare – which translates to \"fishtail\" – is an iconic 6,993m mountain in central Nepal's Annapurna range that contains three of the world's 10 highest peaks. And yet, Machhapuchhare effortlessly steals the show, thanks to its position far from the much higher peaks of the Annapurna range, where it stands isolated and appears tall despite its humbler height.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe peak’s geographic position affords easy views of its different profiles from several places, and the stunning prominence of its vertical relief is inescapable from any angle or distance. Rising like twin spires twisting into each other, Machhapuchhare's double summit is joined by a sharp ridge and has as much allure as the steep, symmetrical triangular tip – its other profile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter that initial sight, I returned to Nepal several times and always made time to see my favourite mountain. Some days were spent in Pokhara, watching the sublime reflection of Machhapuchhare in Phewa Lake. Others were spent watching the early morning and late-evening sun cast glorious light on the pointed peak towering over the rural slopes around Begnas Lake. On other days, I gazed at the mountain from ridgetops like Sarangkot or Astam around Pokhara valley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Turns out, I wasn't alone in my obsession","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne winter, I finally hiked to the basecamp of a smaller peak called Mardi Himal beneath Machhapuchhare. Established in 2012, the short five-day, 40km trek reaches a height of 4,500m and offers one of Machhapuchhare's finest and closest views. Another 1,000m upwards to Mardi Himal summit is the closest anyone can get to the peak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat's because climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55218443\"\u003Ethe world's highest point\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – Mt Everest's 8,848m summit – gets overcrowded. But the reason Machhapuchhare remains a virgin peak – as well as the explosion of commercial trekking and mountaineering in Nepal today – can be attributed to one man: Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts (1916-1997).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJimmy Roberts, as he was popularly known, was a celebrated British Army officer whose contributions to Nepal and Himalayan mountaineering are profound. Roberts was appointed as the first military attaché to Nepal in 1958. He used his position, passion and knowledge of the Himalayas to open up the country's remote mountains for commercial mountaineering and trekking, an industry that has gone on to contribute significantly to Nepal’s economy and local livelihoods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe not only pioneered a golden age of Himalayan exploration, but also made its beauty accessible to the rest of the world when he founded the country's first trekking agency called Mountain Travel in 1964. He even co-opted and popularised the term \"trek\", which has become synonymous with hiking in the Himalayas today. For that, he is still fondly remembered as the \"father of trekking\" in Nepal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERoberts' fascination with Pokhara and Machhapuchhare began after reading a dispatch from Nepal written in 1936 by an army officer, who wrote of the mountain and a curious town on the banks of a lake. \"To see Pokhara and Machapuchare [sic] and the villages in which my men lived, and especially the Gurungs [one of the main Gurkha tribes in the Himalayas] soon became an obsession,\" Roberts wrote in the preface to the book Climbing the Fish’s Tail by Wilfrid Noyce. \"But in those days, the interior of Nepal was a forbidden land, more securely closed than even Mecca or Lhasa in their hey-day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1950, he finally saw his beloved mountain from close quarters. \"I was the first Englishman into my private Mecca [Pokhara]. There was Machapuchare shining in the moonlight, a great white pyramid incredibly aloof,\" he wrote of his seminal encounter. \"So Machapuchare became for me the ideal of a mountain, a personal possession yet out of this world, unattainable but mine by illogical right, brooding over a country and a people which would shape the rest of my life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1957, after more than 20 years of fixating on Machhapuchhare, Roberts organised the first expedition to summit the mountain (led by Noyce and joined by a few other climbers), which had not been officially climbed till then. One thing that stands out in Noyce's account of the climb was the ease with which Roberts let go of his summit dream when logistical issues forced the summit team to be pared down to two. Roberts volunteered to take the support team down while Noyce and another climber went ahead with the final summit push. They, too, ended up abandoning the ascent, just 45m below the summit due to bad weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the expedition, Roberts made a rather uncharacteristic request to the Nepal government: to have the peak restricted and thus to make Machhapuchhare a Himalayan summit that would remain forever unclimbed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESurprisingly, they obliged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELisa Choegyal, a writer and veteran tourism industry professional based in Nepal who knew Roberts personally since 1974, told me, \"Jimmy was not a mountaineer with a huge ego. Even though in this case, it sounds a little bit like it was hubris that if he couldn't climb it, he didn't want anyone else to climb it. But that doesn't really represent the very gentle character that he was in real life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERoberts felt a strong kinship with the Gurungs, for whom Machhapuchhare is a sacred peak, and the people of Chomrong, the last Gurung village before Machhapuchhare, weren't particularly happy with the foreign climbers trying to summit it. However, several mountains are sacred for several communities in Nepal, and that hasn't stopped the government from issuing climbing permits, nor did it stop Roberts from climbing other mountains. But perhaps it was his love of the Gurung people and his unwavering enchantment with the mountain that led to Roberts’ unusual request.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Its forbidden summit, tantalisingly within reach, somehow made it more enticing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExactly how Roberts managed to get the Nepal government to agree to remains a mystery, too. The sentiment, however, seems to have resonated well, with widespread acceptance within Nepal that the virgin peak is illegal to climb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, Roberts' association with the peak being off limits has been largely forgotten. In his later years, \"He used to smilingly say, 'It's very nice that they have still taken my advice that the peak should remain sacred.' And by then it was sort of just generally accepted that it is sacred,\" said Choegyal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday the prevailing view is that the mountain is sacred and thus forbidden. \"Machhapuchhare's summit is not meant to be stepped upon; it is only to be adored by the eyes,\" Tirtha Shrestha, a poet and long-time resident of Pokhara, told me, explaining that locals are of the view that Machhapuchhare should not be opened for climbing. \"Any discourse, not just on Pokhara, but about the beauty of the entire Himalayas, would be incomplete without mentioning Machhapuchhare. Its beauty has greatly moved poets, authors and artists. In many folk songs, the mountain has been showered with praises. Machhapuchhare, for us, is the epitome of beauty,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENeither Roberts nor I would disagree. Nor would anyone who’s been on the Mardi Himal trek or in the general vicinity of Pokhara valley. While I walked through the rhododendron groves in the lower hills, floating above the clouds at times all the way to the highest viewpoint from where the Annapurna range comes into full view, Machhapuchhare’s pinnacle always dominated the horizon and held me in a strange thrall. And its forbidden summit, tantalisingly within reach, somehow made it more enticing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E While it never became clear why Roberts wanted the peak to remain inviolate forever, especially after he himself tried to summit it once and got very close, it's hard to find fault with Roberts' move, seeing how many places have been ravaged by overtourism and commercial mountaineering. It is perhaps rather apposite that while Nepal’s many other mountains generate much-needed revenue, one sublime mountain remains untainted by the touch and ego of humans, quietly watching over the world from its sacred, solitary abode.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-17T20:49:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Himalayan peak off limits to climbers","headlineShort":"The rare mountain you can't climb","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Climbing Machhapuchhare is forbidden, a rarity in a country like Nepal that has embraced mountain tourism so enthusiastically that even the world's highest point gets overcrowded.","summaryShort":"Its forbidden summit remains tantalisingly within reach","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:01:46.463923Z","entity":"article","guid":"e5f10e3e-d561-4681-a964-234391087a93","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:40:08.258857Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","_id":"62df816943d9f4573e680032","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nearly 80 years after the Himalayan lake first captured the world's imagination, the mystery continues to confound – even as revolutionary advances are made in understanding our past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rising sun was yet to shine on the freezing, snow-covered cirque where I was resting after an early morning trudge to a glacial tarn. Cold and miserable, at a dizzying height of 4,800m in the Indian Himalayas, I couldn't summon the energy to care about the pile of human skeletons stacked next to the frozen lake known as Roopkund. In 2009, when I went on the trek, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-56116533\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe mystery of \"Skeleton Lake\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was considered solved and Roopkund trek was well on its way to changing the course of the nascent trekking scene in India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, more than a decade on, not only has the small lake become a victim of its fame but it continues to confound even as revolutionary advances have been made in understanding our past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1942, H K Madhwal, an Indian forest official, stumbled upon hundreds of human skeletons stockpiled in and around Roopkund lake. He reported the bizarre find – a mysterious lake where between 300 to 800 people met their tragic end – and the frigid Himalayas continued to preserve the human remains. In the late 1950s, the macabre mountain find was announced to the public, raising great interest and triggering several investigations that continue to date.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of that was only secondary to scores of trekkers who, like me, have trekked to Roopkund in the last decade, chiefly enamoured by the unparalleled views, diverse landscapes and challenging route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESituated five days from the nearest settlement in Uttarakhand state, the week-long trek spanning more than 50km sets off from idyllic Himalayan villages that are no more than a cluster of traditional houses. Passing through ethereal mist and moss-covered oak forests, the trail then winds along expansive wildflower-laden alpine pastures, locally known as \u003Cem\u003Ebugyals\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, that occur only above the height of 3,300m in the Himalayas. Lofty Himalayan peaks soon come into view and dominate the horizon for the next couple of days. The highest point of the trek at 5,000m is Junargali, a knife-edge-like ridge with a 360-degree view of the high Himalayas and the rugged glacial landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoopkund lies 200m below this ridge. The treacherous, steep climb to Junargali has led to a running joke among trekkers that one wrong step could easily add more bones to the existing pile in the lake. Nearly 80 years after Skeleton Lake first captured the world's imagination, that simple joke doesn't seem too far-fetched after recent revelations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Human bones and skeletons at Roopkund lake, India","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInitially, the skeletons were thought to belong to Japanese soldiers or Tibetan traders on the Silk Road who died due to either an epidemic or exposure to the elements. Later, after forensic analysis in 2004, the best theory was that a group of Indian pilgrims, both men and women, assisted by local porters from the region, were struck by giant hail at Roopkund in a single event in the 9th Century, so concluded from the perimortem injuries on the skulls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey were believed to have been on a revered, once-in-a-12-year Hindu pilgrimage called Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra, an ancient tradition that continues to this day. Roopkund is on the way to Homkund, the final destination of this arduous foot journey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They were believed to have been on a revered, once-in-a-12-year Hindu pilgrimage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVeena Mushrif-Tripathy, professor of archaeology at Deccan College in Pune, was part of the 2004 investigation. She recounts the team concluded the pilgrim theory as most plausible as there were no weapons at the site, indicating the cause of death was not an attack and that they were not soldiers. They also found remnants of musical instruments, and there were old folk stories of pilgrims travelling on the Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra. The DNA analysis, Mushrif-Tripathy said, revealed it was a male-female group belonging to a wide age range, further strengthening this hypothesis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I trekked to Roopkund, a crude reduction of this theory was given as an explanation for the bones. We were also regaled with fantastical tales of angry goddesses, irreverent pilgrims and dancers turned to stone. Every campsite, every pond and so many other landmarks on the way were imbued with elaborate folklore. This heady mix of awe-inspiring nature and riveting mythology turned the morbid Roopkund into an enchanting curiosity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt isn't surprising, then, that Roopkund inadvertently drove the rapid commercialisation of the Indian trekking scene. In 2009, a Bengaluru-based company launched an affordable group trek to Roopkund that could be booked online. The IT boom in India had led to rising disposable incomes that coincided with the newly accessible slopes of the Indian Himalayas, which until that point had mostly been only explored by hardy alpine types.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tent in snow during the trek to Roopkund in Uttarakhand, India","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPredictably, Indian trekkers flocked to master the difficult yet highly rewarding Roopkund trek. Following this success, similar companies mushroomed across the country, popularising more trails across the Himalayas to meet the flourishing demand, later bolstered greatly by the rise of social media. Unfortunately, the downside of this commercialisation has been much environmental degradation in the Himalayas. Today, the same Roopkund trek that got Indians onto mountain slopes like never before is now inaccessible due to a government ban on camping in the much-exploited, ecologically fragile bugyals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe rare mountain you can't climb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210110-an-indian-states-harmonious-approach-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA little-known 'country' inside India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210528-how-the-indian-economy-is-built-on-generosity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Indian way to 'maximise value'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA year after my visit, in 2010, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-12059564\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe first ancient-human genome was sequenced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, quickly revolutionising how we study our past. Soon, the Roopkund mystery was once again resurrected. Thirty-eight powdered bone samples prepared from skeletal remains stored at the Anthropological Survey of India, Kolkata, were sent to 16 labs worldwide for genomic and biomolecular analysis. The results of the five-year-long study, published in 2019, stunned the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":[],"videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"The ancient mystery of the 'skeleton lake'","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-019-11357-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enew study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that the 38 skeletons belonged to three genetically distinct groups and were deposited at the lake during multiple events over a 1,000 year period. There was a South Asian group, predictably, whose bones were deposited between the 7th and 10th Centuries in multiple events. The team also found a new group of individuals of eastern Mediterranean ancestry originating in the island of Crete, who died in the 19th Century in a single event. And there was one sample that had South-East Asian origin, also from the 19th Century. Surprised by this anomalous finding, the team then did a dietary analysis to see if it supported the results of DNA analysis, and it did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"At a site like Roopkund where the context is highly disturbed and the possibilities of full-scale excavations are low, using aDNA [Ancient DNA] provides us with direct information about the genetic ancestry of these individuals,\" said Ayushi Nayak from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shh.mpg.de\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMax Planck Institute for the Science of Human History\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Our 2019 paper was able to add new kinds of data through different biomolecular methods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Verdant bugyals, or alpine pastures, in the Indian Himalayas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe new evidence pointing to the presence of groups of non-Indian origin at Roopkund lake was a shock, as there isn't any historical evidence to explain who these people were and what they were doing in the far reaches of the Himalayas. \"Questions remain about the group of individuals that matched closest in ancestry to modern-day eastern Mediterranean people – in terms of their reasons for visiting Roopkund and whether they were European travellers or locals with eastern Mediterranean ancestry. Or about whether there are other sites in the region with such accumulations of human remains,\" said Nayak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I remember my journey to Roopkund today, my mind reels as I comprehend the complexity of the mystery and the heavy legacy of the trail we trod upon so nonchalantly. Despite their intoxicating beauty on good days, the rugged high Himalayas can be deadly on bad days. Several have lost their lives in pursuit of Roopkund over the past decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut what were the motivations of all those, including the unexpected eastern Mediterranean group, who met their untimely end at this lake centuries earlier? I also wondered how they all died. Could some of them have fallen from the Junargali ridge, as we joked? Could some of them have been killed by exposure like we feared? Could some of them have died due to acute mountain sickness, which is all too common at this altitude? It is improbable that several distinct groups of people died at Roopkund over several separate incidents spanning more than 1,000 years due to hailstorms. And yet, that's the only evidence we currently have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"According to me, the mystery is not at all solved. We have more questions than answers","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There are hardly six to seven skulls [with] trauma related to hail,\" said Mushrif-Tripathy, who was also part of the 2019 investigation and a co-author on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-019-11357-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest paper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"According to me, the mystery is not at all solved. We have more questions than answers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe site remains highly disturbed and unpreserved. Over the years skeletons have been moved around by trekkers and even taken home as souvenirs, posing a challenge to finding an accurate answer in the future, despite potential advances in science. The 2019 study's anomalous insights have understandably caused much flutter, but the more important consideration is that if an analysis of just 38 samples out of hundreds of bodies threw such a curveball, what other surprises are buried in the icy grave?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile we scratch our heads in bewilderment and wonder, the skeletons at the lake continue to confound. At Roopkund, the mystery of the dead lives on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-06T19:49:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The unsolved mystery of Skeleton Lake","headlineShort":"The unsolved mystery of Skeleton Lake","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Skeleton Lake in the Indian Himalayas","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"30.2622","longitude":"30.2622","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Skeleton Lake in the Indian Himalayas","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nearly 80 years after the Himalayan lake first captured the world's imagination, the mystery continues to confound – even as revolutionary advances are made in understanding our past.","summaryShort":"Nearly 80 years on, the mystery continues to confound","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-05T19:56:41.82199Z","entity":"article","guid":"375f7eb3-c918-49ce-8be6-c6c84f0317f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-06T07:49:26.271961Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","_id":"62df81f843d9f4393f67e67c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the nuns’ smiling faces conceal an incredible energy and strength.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was barely 5am, but at Druk Gawa Khilwa nunnery in Kathmandu, Nepal, the nuns were already practicing Kung Fu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith one leg folded forward and the other one stretched out backward, they lunged in the air repeatedly, striving for perfection in a series of impeccable kicks. Cries of energy punctuated each movement, a shrill accompaniment to the booming drums. Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the women’s smiling faces concealed an incredible energy and strength.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese are the Kung-Fu nuns: Nepal’s only female order to practice the deadly martial art made famous by Bruce Lee. In the inherently patriarchal Buddhist monastic system, women are considered inferior to men. Monks usually occupy all positions of leadership, leaving nuns to the household duties and other tedious chores. But in 2008, the leader of the 1,000-year-old Drukpa lineage, His Holiness The Gyalwang Drukpa, changed all that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a visit to Vietnam where he saw nuns receiving combat training, he decided to bring the idea back to Nepal by encouraging his nuns to learn self-defence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHis simple motive: to promote gender equality and empower the young women, who mostly come from poor backgrounds in India and Tibet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvery day, 350 nuns, aged between 10 and 25, take part in three intense training sessions where they practice the exercises taught to them by their teacher, who visits twice a year from Vietnam.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as perfecting their postures, they handle traditional weapons, such as the \u003Cem\u003Eki am\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sword), small \u003Cem\u003Edao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sabre), big \u003Cem\u003Edao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (halberd), \u003Cem\u003Etong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (lance) and \u003Cem\u003Enunchaku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chain attached to two metal bars).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThose with exceptional physical and mental strength are taught the brick-breaking technique, made famous in countless martial arts movies, which is only performed on special occasions like His Holiness’ birthday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe nuns, most of them with black belts, agree that Kung Fu helps them feel safe, develops self-confidence, gets them strong and keeps them fit. But an added bonus is the benefit of concentration, which allows them to sit and meditate for longer periods of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJigme Konchok, a nun in her early 20s who has been practicing Kung Fu for more than five years, explained the process:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I need to be constantly aware of my movement, know whether it is right or not, and correct it immediately if necessary. I must focus my attention on the sequence of movements that I have memorized and on each movement at once. If the mind wanders, then the movement is not right or the stick falls. It is the same in meditation.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the name of gender equality, The Gyalwang Drukpa also encourages his nuns to learn traditionally masculine skills, such as plumbing, electrical fitting, typing, cycling and English. Under his guidance, they’re taught to lead prayers and are given basic business skills – typically work done by monks – and they run the nunnery’s guesthouse and coffee shop. The progressive women even drive 4X4s down Druk Amitabha mountain to Kathmandu, about 30km away, to get supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EImbued with a new confidence, they are starting to use their skills and energy in community development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Nepal was hit with a massive earthquake in April 2015, the nuns refused to move to a safer area and instead trekked to nearby villages to help remove rubble and clear pathways. They distributed food to the survivors and helped pitch tents for shelter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEarly this year these nuns – led by His Holiness himself – cycled 2,200km from Kathmandu to Delhi to spread the message of environmental awareness and encourage people to use bicycles instead of cars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd when the nuns visit areas plagued by violence, like Kashmir, they deliver lectures on the importance of diversity and tolerance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EForemost on the nuns’ agenda, however, is the promotion of female empowerment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Kung Fu helps us to develop a certain kind of confidence to take care of ourselves and others in times of need.” Konchok explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E If you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-09-19T17:21:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Kung Fu nuns of Nepal","headlineShort":"The Kung Fu nuns of Nepal","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dressed in traditional maroon robes modified in the style of karate uniforms, the nuns’ smiling faces conceal an incredible energy and strength.","summaryShort":"They’re black belts in the deadly martial art made famous by Bruce Lee","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:49:08.769297Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f0d3756-555a-4ee0-86b1-a6e7aeb297db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:53:58.219631Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys","_id":"630e8e9e43d9f46d1a3a0f93","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstuart-butler"],"bodyIntro":"According to Tibetan Buddhists, their location will only be revealed at very specific moments in time when the world is under enormous stress and in danger of destruction.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELooking out of the monastery doorway at columns of rock and spires of ice soaring 7,000m into the heavens, the Buddhist monk smiled and said, \"I am home. In my paradise.\" He then turned his attention back to the classroom where he was teaching young novice monks. I thanked him, shut the door behind me and walked away from the monastery. Away from the small village of Thame with its sturdy stone houses and fields of barley and potatoes. Away from the huge Himalayan peaks. And away from the \u003Cem\u003Ebeyul\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A beyul is a sacred place and sanctuary to which lamas could lead people in times of strife and trouble","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn integral belief in the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism, established in the 8th Century and the oldest of the four different schools, a beyul is a place where the physical and spiritual worlds overlap. Specifically, they are hidden paradise valleys whose location will only be revealed at very specific moments in time when the world is under enormous stress and in danger of destruction through war, famine or plague. At such times, it's believed, a beyul becomes a refuge in an unstable world where everything lives in harmony.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A beyul is a sacred place and sanctuary to which lamas (teachers of Tibetan Buddhism) could lead people in times of strife and trouble,\" explained Frances Klatzel, author of several books on Himalayan and Buddhist culture, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmerapublications.com\u002Fgaiety-of-spirit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGaiety of Spirit – the Sherpas of Everest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut a beyul cannot be entered by just anyone, she added. Only a true Buddhist with a pure heart who has overcome enormous trial and hardship can enter a beyul. For Nyingma Buddhists, trying to enter a beyul when all the above conditions are not met is likely to lead to death.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the author of a number of guidebooks to the region and a regular visitor to the Himalaya and Tibetan regions, I found it fascinating that somewhere among the folds of the Himalaya might be hidden lands revealed to a worthy few in times of calamity. Before heading up into the mountains to find out more, however, I asked Klatzel for some background on how the beyuls came to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx4j8k"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe explained that the beyuls were created by Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche, or The Lotus Born One), a tantric Buddhist Vajra master who was thought to be instrumental in spreading Buddhism throughout Tibet and the Himalaya around the 8th or 9th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"During his travels in the Himalaya, Padmasambhava realised that times of strife would come, so he used his spiritual powers to purify and 'hide' certain valleys and wrote texts describing their locations and the conditions for entering them,\" she said. These texts were hidden in caves, inside monasteries and behind waterfalls throughout the Himalaya and could only be discovered by lamas at times that were predetermined by Padmasambhava.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENobody knows exactly how many beyuls there are, but 108 is the most widely accepted figure – though most are yet to be revealed. Most of the areas that have been located are on the south side of the Himalaya, which is greener, wetter and more fertile – more \"paradisical\" – than the often sterile and harsh Tibetan plateau.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of these beyuls – such as in Sikkim in north-east India and the Helambu, Rolwaling and Tsum valleys in Nepal – have been known about by Buddhist practitioners for centuries and are now dotted with villages and towns. Then there are those where the location is known but is inaccessible to most. This is because a beyul can be both a physical place and a spiritual place. It's said that a person could even be stood in a beyul but not be inside it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx4jl3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt might be easy to consider the idea of a hidden land as something out of a fairy tale, but ancient scrolls giving the details of beyul have indeed been found. Take for example, Beyul Pemako. Located in what is today the remote north-east Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, the gateway to the revered beyul was noted to be hidden on cliffs behind a waterfall in the most inaccessible part of the Yarlung Tsangpo Canyon, the deepest canyon on the planet, which remained a blank spot on maps until very recently. Nobody even knew if a waterfall existed there. But in the early 1990s, a team of Buddhist practitioners, led by Buddhist scholar Ian Baker – who later wrote about the experience in his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguinrandomhouse.com\u002Fbooks\u002F292986\u002Fthe-heart-of-the-world-by-ian-baker\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Heart of the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – finally penetrated the area, where they did indeed discover a high waterfall hidden inside the canyon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as the beyuls themselves seem to be more than legend, so are the stories of a grisly end if you try to enter one when the time isn't right or if you heart is not as pure as you think. In 1962, a respected Tibetan lama named Tulshuk Lingpa claimed to have found a map that would lead to the Beyul Demoshong, the gateway of which was rumoured to be somewhere on the slopes of Mount Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe travelled to the mountain with around 300 followers. As recounted in the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thomasshor.com\u002Fa-step-away-from-paradise\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Step Away from Paradise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Thomas K Shor, survivors of the event recounted that Lingpa and a few others who'd gone on ahead to do a reconnaissance of the route saw a series of bright lights calling them toward a gateway. But rather than entering the beyul, Lingpa returned to gather up all his followers. Unfortunately, instead of crossing a magical threshold into a paradise valley, most of the group – including the lama – were killed by an avalanche.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOthers have had more successful attempts to enter a beyul. The Sherpa people are one of those. Today, these renowned climbers, porters and trekking guides are intimately associated with the Nepalese Himalaya, and Mount Everest in particular. But they haven't always lived in the southern shadow of Everest. For most of their history they lived in the Kham region of eastern Tibet (today a part of China's Sichuan province) but, back in the 15th Century, widespread turmoil and conflict in Tibet turned the Sherpa world upside down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx4jlp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was then that Lama Sangya Dorje, a Master Tibetan Buddhist, decided that the time was right to \"unlock\" the Khumbu Beyul. He led the Sherpas over the daunting Nangpa La pass (5,716m) and into a well-watered land where they could grow crops and graze their yaks in peace. The Sherpas had arrived in the Khumbu (the name given to the area surrounding the Nepalese side of Mount Everest) and, compared to where they'd just come, from it was a vision of a high-altitude paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, the Khumbu region welcomes thousands of international visitors each year who come to hike to the famed Everest Basecamp, but few people I met when I visited seem interested or aware that they were in a beyul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, there are some corners of the Khumbu region where the spirit of the beyul remains strong. Perched on a steep, forested slope, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flawudo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELawudo Gompa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is considered one of the most sacred spots in Nepal's Bhote Koshi Nadi valley, located two valleys west of Everest Base Camp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Most people think there are just four valleys in the Khumbu region. But that's not true,\" said Dawa Sangye Sherpa, an 82-year-old nun who has been living at the gompa (a small Tibetan monastery) for more than 50 years. She'd brought me tea and biscuits almost the moment I'd arrived and had readily agreed to tell me more about Lawudo's connection with the Khumbu Beyul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx4jlt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Behind the gompa is a large cliff called Dragkarma and in the cliff is a gateway that leads to a secret fifth valley,\" she told me. \"That's the heart of the beyul.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is where Padmasambhava meditated and where he blessed the Khumbu and turned it into a beyul","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked if I could see the cliff, Dawa Sangye smiled and shook her head. \"But let me show you something else,\" she said. Leading me behind the main prayer hall, the nun flung open a small door to reveal a room built into and under a rock overhang. Inside, the rock ceiling had been painted the blue of a summer sky and at the far end of the room was a small shrine with a statue of Padmasambhava. At his feet, were offerings left by visitors: a small box of Royal Britannia digestive biscuits, a packet of noodles and some dried flowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is where Padmasambhava meditated and where he blessed the Khumbu and turned it into a beyul,\" Dawa Sangye said. Even though I'm not a Buddhist, I found myself running my hand over the cave walls with a sense of wonder flowing over me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps seeing my smile, the nun suggested that I go to the village of Thame further up the valley. Situated just at the point where farmland turns to highland yak pastures, Thame monastery, she told me, is considered one of the oldest monasteries in the Khumbu and a place of great spiritual significance. Some even say that it's the spiritual heart of the Khumbu Beyul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe walking trail from Lawudo to Thame spiralled down cliff faces and crept along a canyon formed by mighty mountain peaks. Then, quite suddenly, the land peeled back to reveal a wide-open valley with the village of Thame at the far end. Pushing open the doors to the main prayer hall of the Thame monastery, I found three elderly monks chanting words written onto yellow-tinged parchments. Breaking off from his recitals, one of them waved for me to sit on the bench next to him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cx4jpn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sometimes, when we are reciting our prayers here, Padmasambhava appears to us,\" he told me in a hushed tone, adding that Padmasambhava's spirit would tell them that the work they were doing – and the prayers they were offering – were bringing good to the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA short time later, I passed the classroom doorway where the Buddhist monk had said, \"I am home. In my paradise.\" Whether or not there were hidden valleys in the Himalaya, it seemed clear that these monks had found their place of peace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I left, I was reminded of something that Klatzel had told me before I'd set out: \"A beyul is more than just a place, it is a state of mind,\" she'd said. \"Beyul are reminders to prepare ourselves for challenges ahead by developing a calm and steady state of mind that becomes our inner beyul, our inner sanctuary.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-31T02:40:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Himalaya's hidden 'paradise valleys'","headlineShort":"The Himalaya's hidden paradise valleys","image":["p0cx4j76"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"28.5983","longitude":"83.9310","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cx4jl3"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160916-the-kung-fu-nuns-of-nepal"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"According to Tibetan Buddhists, their location will only be revealed at very specific moments in time when the world is under enormous stress and in danger of destruction.","summaryShort":"These lands are only revealed to a worthy few in times of calamity","tag":["tag\u002Fmountain","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-30T22:26:20.539522Z","entity":"article","guid":"66e86364-ab62-4b83-8a8f-fe82f8554587","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-01T01:02:15.973691Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220830-the-himalayas-hidden-paradise-valleys","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnepal","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_nepal_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762262},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle","_id":"62df807943d9f46d3d1a2522","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On the small Canary Island of La Gomera, an ancient whistling language that once almost died out is now undergoing an exciting revival.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the rugged crags of Barranco de Ávalo, a ravine on the small Canary Island of La Gomera, two local 12-year-olds were practicing their \u003Cem\u003ESilbo Gomero, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe local whistling language. For an entrancing few minutes, Irún Castillo Perdomo and Angel Manuel Garcia Herrera's lilting warbles reverberated around the barren gorge and soared proudly into the air like eagles in flight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09pwqp7.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the whistle is an inheritance from our ancestors and maintaining it identifies us as Gomeros.\" – \u003Cem\u003EEugenio Darias, teacher\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey were accompanied by 70-year-old retired Silbo Gomero teacher Eugenio Darias, whose grandfather used to own and work on this very same land. He told me that the boys' whistled conversation was similar to any they would have over text message or in the playground, but the focus was instead on the six differentiating sounds that make up La Gomera's protected whistle language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's true that most children their age would sooner pick up their phone and tap away, this small Canary Island invites them to think differently. Thanks to Darias, their threatened tongue has been a compulsory school subject since 1999 – and almost all 22,000 residents can understand it alongside their mother tongue of Canarian Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's important to give students the idea that they can really use it if they need to, like other languages, but also that it's not necessary for everyday use,\" said Darias, who pioneered the Silbo Gomero learning programme. \"Our aim is to give the whistle more importance so that the children can be confident using it together. Importantly, having the whistle protected within our compulsory curriculum prevents extinction altogether.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhistle languages, in varying guises, exist in as many as \"70 places\", according to local broadcast journalist Francisca Gonzalez Santana. \"In Turkey, for example, the whistle began 500 years ago during the Ottoman Empire,\" she said. \"It then spread to all regions of the Black Sea; and in Mexico, we can still find whistled communication in Spanish – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aljazeera.com\u002Ffeatures\u002F2017\u002F9\u002F8\u002Fthe-decline-of-chinantec-whistled-speech-in-mexico\"\u003EChinantec\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESilbo Gomero, which is one of the most studied whistling languages and was officially declared an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fwhistled-language-of-the-island-of-la-gomera-canary-islands-the-silbo-gomero-00172\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIntangible Cultural Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Unesco in 2009, uses six condensed sounds to communicate. Two differentiating whistles replace the five spoken vowels in Spanish, while just four replace the 22 consonants. Whistlers elongate or shorten the sounds to mimic the words.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Houses and roads scattered in Valle Gran Rey ravine, La Gomera","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeveral whistling methods exist on the island, though perhaps the most traditional is demonstrated by local sculptor José Darías. His Whistling Tree sculpture at Mirador de Igualero, a viewpoint in Vallehermoso overlooking a ravine where Silbo Gomero was most active, shows how the index finger should be bent and placed inside the mouth while whistling with an open palm beside it to amplify the sound.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperienced whistlers use different finger methods and can often tell who is calling by the whistle's \"accent\" alone – but most whistlers will introduce themselves and call the recipient's name. When the message is understood, they whistle back \"\u003Cem\u003Ebueno bueno\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\". Short and simple indeed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat isn't quite as short and simple is the language's origin. History books suggest the whistle dates back to at least 1402 during the initial Spanish conquest of the Canary Islands, but Silbo Gomero's earlier heritage is often up for debate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210712-the-worlds-most-endangered-sound\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's most endangered sound?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170731-greeces-disappearing-whistled-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreece's disappearing whistled language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210207-buen-vivir-colombias-philosophy-for-good-living\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe indigenous recipe for living well\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.elpais.com\u002Felpais\u002F2019\u002F06\u002F06\u002Finenglish\u002F1559833589_664515.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDNA-based research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in 2019 by Tenerife's La Laguna University has matched La Gomera's early inhabitants, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200528-the-guanches-spains-mysterious-mummies\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Guanches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with Berbers (now known locally as Amazigh). These indigenous people roamed North African regions more than 3,000 years ago and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20170525-the-people-who-speak-in-whistles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecommunicated by whistle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it's therefore widely believed that the Spanish settlers on the island adapted the whistling language of La Gomera's early inhabitants to suit their native tongue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELa Gomera's specific whistle found its way to other Canary Islands during the three-year Spanish conquest – it even later followed emigrating Gomeros to South America – but it only survived in one other island in the Canaries: El Hierro, where, according to Santana, the whistle is still occasionally used among elderly residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Eugenio Darias demonstrates how to whistle Silbo Gomero","imageOrientation":"landscape","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"Eugenio Darias demonstrates how to whistle Silbo Gomero (Credit: Richard Franks)","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESilbo Gomero lent itself to La Gomera's demanding terrain – namely its deep ravines – allowing the locals to communicate with a drifting, piercing sound that could travel for several kilometres. From atop the ravines, the locals would announce events, request livestock be brought over, warn of impending danger, or even announce the death of a family member. \"It saved a lot of climbing,\" said Darias.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1950s, Silbo Gomero was used so frequently that there was often a scattered queue of farmers waiting to send instructions across the valleys. \"It was difficult terrain to work on – nobody wanted to climb up and down the ravines to pass on a message. Because of this, so many whistling conversations were happening at the same time, and we would have to wait our turn,\" Darias said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was like traffic!\" he continued. \"However – during the 1960 and '70s, most agricultural land was abandoned and many of the workers had left the island. As Silbo Gomero was mostly used between local livestock holders, when they left the island, the whistling left with them too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fw.soundcloud.com\u002Fplayer\u002F?url=https%3A\u002F\u002Fapi.soundcloud.com\u002Ftracks\u002F1090651144&color=%23ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&show_teaser=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"BBC Travel\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E · \u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"Eugenio Darias demonstrates how to whistle Silbo Gomero\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\u002Fvid-audio-love-the-world-eugenio-darias-whistling\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEugenio Darias demonstrates how to whistle Silbo Gomero\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESilbo Gomero was first in decline by the 1960s, when growing economic conditions forced many of the island's workers to emigrate to more prosperous countries like Cuba and Venezuela, as well as the neighbouring Canary Island of Tenerife. Soon after, phones became commonplace and threatened the language altogether.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 1990s, modern technology ascendancy and the introduction of new roads and paths on La Gomera removed the necessity and practicality of Silbo Gomero, dangling it near extinction. This is where Darias stepped in to protect its future by ensuring future generations not only understood the whistle but were able to use it too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Whistling Tree sculpture at Mirador de Igualero viewpoint","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The whistle has been defended with greater care in the Canary Islands,\" Santana noted, “because it is an essential part of our culture: the orography of the islands, with mountain areas and canyons, and our economy that has been linked to agriculture and livestock.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the whistle is now rarely heard outside of school or other official programmes, however, it is occasionally used in the few parts of the island with no telephone connection. \"I know of two goat herders who still whistle to each other,\" Darias said. \"They are nephews who live on the south side of the island. Their livestock moves around in an area with no mobile network, and that's why it's necessary for them to use it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Would you use Silbo Gomero today if your phone ran out of battery?\" I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course!\" he said. \"After all, we'd still communicate that way if phones didn't exist.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-21T04:00:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Spanish island that communicates by whistle","headlineShort":"A tiny isle with an 'unspoken' language","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two boys whistling in the Barranco de Ávalo ravine, La Gomera","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"28.1033","longitude":"17.2194","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On the small Canary Island of La Gomera, an ancient whistling language that once almost died out is now undergoing an exciting revival.","summaryShort":"Almost all 22,000 residents can understand it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-20T22:32:50.012847Z","entity":"article","guid":"b1909df6-da68-4a6b-a195-2eb59528962d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:20.20972Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762264},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french","_id":"630d384b43d9f4586f6854fd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Felizabeth-warkentin"],"bodyIntro":"Quebecois French has long been mocked for its rough-and-tumble sound, but this version of French is more likely what 17th-Century French aristocracy spoke – including the king.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a perfect sun-splashed summer afternoon as my mother and I meandered through Quebec City's old town, stopping at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quebec-cite.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-quebec-city\u002Fplace-royale\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlace Royale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 400-year-old cobblestone square of historical greystone buildings with dormer windows and pitched roofs in red, copper and slate. My mother was born and raised in this French-speaking city, so I knew that now, at 80, it meant a lot to her to be back for a visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we reminisced, the sound of the local accent floated around us – and I thought about something I'd recently heard: that while the French spoken in Quebec may not ring as romantic or mellifluous to the ear as contemporary Parisian French, now considered the gold standard, the way the Quebecois speak is actually closer in pronunciation to the French used by 17th-Century aristocrats – and even the king.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI grew up in Montreal in the 1960s and '70s, when anglophones, along with the French from France, mocked the rough-and-tumble pronunciation of Quebec French, comparing it to the quacking of ducks. I myself was always deeply embarrassed in the company of my anglophone classmates at French immersion school. So-called pundits and my teachers, who hailed from France and Morocco, said that the relaxed Quebec pronunciation was disgraceful, that it made a mockery of the language of Molière. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs it turns out, the celebrated 17th-Century playwright likely sounded more like a modern-day Quebecois – rather than a contemporary Parisian – than they knew.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd actually baulked when someone told me this a few weeks earlier over lunch at a café in North Hatley, a quaint village in the gently mountainous Eastern Townships, south-east of Montreal. I'd known that Quebecois French had retained many vestiges of \"le français du roy\" or \"the king's French\", especially in its vocabulary, but I drew the line at pronunciation. \"There's no way that Louis XIV said '\u003Cem\u003Epaw, voilaw',\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or '\u003Cem\u003Etoé et moé'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\" I'd said incredulously, as I compared those to the more commonly accepted pronunciations of \u003Cem\u003Epas, voilà,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Etoi et moi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there are logical linguistic and historical reasons why Quebecois French is different from French French (what linguists call \"normative\" or \"neutralised\" French).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cwyn6r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There is one thing that characterises Quebecois French and that is its rhythm,\" said Chantal Bouchard, a sociolinguist in the French department at Montreal's McGill University and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pum.umontreal.ca\u002Fcatalogue\u002Fmechante-langue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMéchante Langue: La Légitimité Linquistique du Français Parlé au Quebéc\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Wicked Language: The Linguistic Legitimacy of the French Spoken in Quebec). \"We in Quebec have conserved something from 17th-Century French: the distinction between the long vowels and the short vowels.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe gave the example of the ai\u002Fê vowel. If one says\u003Cem\u003E vous faites \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(\"you do\u002Fmake\"), the Quebecois vowel is short (as in \"get\"), but if one says \u003Cem\u003Ela fête\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"the party\"), the vowel is long (as in \"hey\").\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The French have not conserved this short\u002Flong vowel difference,\" she explained. \"They still spell \u003Cem\u003Efaites\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Efête\u003C\u002Fem\u003E differently, but they pronounce them both the same way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EClaude Poirier, a historian of Quebec French at the Université Laval in Quebec City, has spent a lot of time poring over 17th-Century archival documents to determine if the spelling of certain words could give us an idea of their pronunciation. He found that in the 1658 court acts, a lawyer who came to Quebec from Poitou in west-central France \"spelled \u003Cem\u003Eperdre\u003C\u002Fem\u003E ('lose') as \u003Cem\u003Epardre,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which is closer to how some people in Quebec still pronounce the word.\" Another example he found was the word \u003Cem\u003Edevoir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"must\" or \"to be obligated to\"). It was spelled \u003Cem\u003Edevour,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E he said, and was pronounced devou-air, the way many elderly Quebecois still pronounce it today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cwyncl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother major difference is vocabulary. Words like \u003Cem\u003Echar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for \"car\"; \u003Cem\u003Epiasse,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E slang for \"dollar\"; \u003Cem\u003Edispendieux\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for \"expensive\"; \u003Cem\u003Epatate\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for \"potato\"; and \u003Cem\u003Ebarré\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for \"locked\" instead of the normative French \u003Cem\u003Efermé à clef\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"closed with a key\") all originate from a more antiquated French no longer used in France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo how is that Quebec's version retained more 17th-Century aristocratic relics than what's spoken in Paris, the accepted seat of the French language?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth Bouchard and Poirier noted that 16th- and 17th-Century French settlers who immigrated to Quebec, then known as New France, tended to be natives of northern and western France. Aside from royalty and the aristocracy, only one-third of the people in France spoke French at that time. The rest spoke their regional languages, such as Breton, Provencal or Norman.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn New France, however, concerted efforts were made to teach the new arrivals French – and it was the version spoken at the royal court by the aristocrats of the north and west. Thus, aristocratic French became generalised among the settlers. In the mid 1700s, French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville even wrote that \"the Canadian accent is as pure as that of the Parisians\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut everything began to change in 1759 when France lost its colony to the British at the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in Quebec City. Contact between France and New France was ruptured, and with the signing of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FTreaty-of-Paris-1763\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreaty of Paris in 1763\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a good part of the elite returned to Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore dramatic changes came with the French Revolution, cutting off the mother country from its former colony for another four decades. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"It seems more like Old France lives on in Canada, and that it is our country [France] which is the new one\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Poirier, during this period of alienation, scholars in France embarked on a massive effort to spread the use of French and standardise its grammar and pronunciation. \"The bourgeoisie dumped all the pronunciations they didn't deem perfect, and they continued their purification through the 18th Century,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn short, French in France changed, while in Quebec it stayed more or less the same. \"The Quebecois are conservatives,\" said Poirier. \"They conserved the French language as it was spoken in the 'ancien régime'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the time the French began travelling to Quebec again, then known as Lower Canada, around 1830, the differences had become extreme. When famous French thinker Alexis de Tocqueville visited in 1831, he wrote in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ameriquefrancaise.org\u002Fen\u002Farticle-466\u002FAlexis_de_Tocqueville%E2%80%99s_visit_to_Lower_Canada_in_1831.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea letter to his mother\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"Canada raises our curiosity. The French nation has been preserved there. As a result, one can observe the customs and the language spoken during Louis XIV's reign.\" And in another letter, he admitted: \"It seems more like Old France lives on in Canada, and that it is our country [France] which is the new one.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cwynkd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=VrPj8mKcf6I\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome YouTubers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E still make fun of the Quebec accent, perceptions have changed a lot over the past 10 to 20 years as a huge \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2019\u002F02\u002F19\u002Fworld\u002Fcanada\u002Fmontreal-quebec-french-in-canada.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einflux of French expats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has arrived, particularly to Montreal and Quebec City. Marielle Lumineau and her sister Irène Lumineau relocated from France to Quebec 20 and 16 years ago, respectively, and fell hard for \"la belle province\" – so much so that they wrote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vivreicitte.com\u002Fle-livre\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIcitte: Les Français au Québec\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a humorous, light-hearted guide for other expats. The duo have picked up some of the tell-tale Quebec accent and inflections, and their kids, who range from 7 to 16, are \"completely Quebecois\", said Marielle. Younger generations in France, Belgium and francophone Switzerland have also embraced the accent. What's more, Quebec films have garnered the prestigious César award at Cannes, and Quebec comedians like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Farts-entertainment\u002F2019\u002F03\u002F08\u002Fcomedian-sugar-sammy-can-properly-offend-france-canada-now-its-americas-turn\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESugar Sammy are in huge demand on French stages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe French language and the sense of pride in the Quebecois identity have indeed come a long way. \"The French language is central to the Quebec identity,\" said Bouchard. \"We've made a lot of progress since the 1960s with regard to the presence of French in the public space, French as the common language, the right to work in French, the number of people here who are fluent in French, but things remain very fragile.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, many here still remain self-conscious about the way they speak. But Dominique Chouinard, a former French teacher in Montreal and now a curriculum consultant to other French teachers, wants this attitude to end. \"French is full of idiosyncrasies – every country in the French-speaking world has its own peculiarities,\" she said. \"Some immigrants who come here from France and French-speaking countries like Morocco, who insist that their kids not speak Quebecois French, are just being snobs. We have to stop beating ourselves up about it. We need to stop thinking we don't speak proper French.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-30T10:03:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The royal roots of Quebec's French","headlineShort":"Is Quebec's French the 'real' French?","image":["p0cwymzv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.8570565","longitude":"-71.4849978","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cwymzv"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181105-a-strange-welcome-in-canada","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220817-canadas-new-700km-island-path","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Quebecois French has long been mocked for its rough-and-tumble sound, but this version of French is more likely what 17th-Century French aristocracy spoke – including the king.","summaryShort":"Its aristocratic roots haven't changed much since the 1600s","tag":["tag\u002F20141118-language"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-29T22:05:45.662941Z","entity":"article","guid":"f77922a8-e6b6-460c-bd1a-13adaf0857db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-30T16:32:24.412253Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220829-the-royal-roots-of-quebecs-french","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england","_id":"62df80e343d9f46d2c2cc8d7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nine hundred years ago, the Yorkshire town of Doncaster was given to Scotland and never returned. Or so a quirk of history claims.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECross Yorkshire from north to south, through the Norman-era borough of Richmond to the minster and market towns of Ripon, York, Selby and Rotherham edging the Great North Road, the ancient trackway first built by the Romans, and you'll find yourself dazzled by the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs romantic as it is ruinous, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\u002Frichmond-castle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERichmond Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a history geek's dream. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Ffountains-abbey-and-studley-royal-water-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFountains Abbey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Ripon can transport you to the High Middle Ages, while princely \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyorkminster.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYork Minster\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an exquisite and triumphal monument to a town that is an emblem of English national pride. In the same walled city, you can stroll the historic street of Stonegate, where the most famous terrorist in English history was born. You might know him better as Guy Fawkes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn the journey, you also may hear of strange curiosities, persistent legends and peculiar laws. Like the supposed and disputed ancient decree that states in York it is perfectly legal to shoot a Scotsman with a bow and arrow from the city's crenellated walls. Except on a Sunday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut one lesser-known peculiarity is that Doncaster, another minster town and one that grew from a clay and gravel Roman fort, is not, in fact, English, but Scottish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECall it a barmy revelation or historical anomaly, but this oddity dates back to 1136 in the days of King Stephen of England, when the town was ceded to King David I of Scotland in the first Treaty of Durham. And, officially at least, it was never given back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOr so the tale goes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sign on wall saying Scot Lane in Doncaster","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENearly nine centuries later, I followed the same course as the warring medieval English and Scottish kings, taking the road to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitdoncaster.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoncaster\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to try to make sense of this most perplexing of stories and one that remains tucked away within the academic footnotes of British history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo begin with, I hoped Dr Charles Kelham, archivist of the city council and holder of a Scottish history PhD, might help set the record straight about so-called \"Bonny Donny\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"It's a good story, isn't it?\" he said when we met at the recently developed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dglam.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanum Gallery, Library and Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the home for the city's heritage occupying what was once the Doncaster School for Girls. \"It's peculiar, ostensibly, and it does stir people up, especially when talk of Scottish independence comes around. But there is a certain amount of truth in it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's disputed national treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210606-cornwall-the-uks-forgotten-fifth-nation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's forgotten 'fifth nation'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe Danum enables plenty of reflection on the town's history and, inside, the museum exposes Doncaster's heart and bones, showing its story to be one linked to railways, horse racing (the town is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doncaster-racecourse.co.uk\u002Fracing-highlights\u002Fst-leger-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Leger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the oldest class horse race in Britain), mining and Roman occupation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn the other hand, there is little mention of the town's supposed Scottish ownership. In fact, the oldest document in the museum's 50,000-piece collection is the Royal Borough Charter of English king Richard I, dated 22 May 1194 and handwritten in Latin on sheepskin. Used since medieval times, charters grant rights and privileges to towns, boroughs and cities and this was the first proof that Doncaster was officially English by the turn of the 13th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"There's no getting away from the fact that between 1136 and 1156 the manor of Doncaster was in the hands of the Scottish crown,\" said Dr Kelham, matter-of-factly. \"Unfortunately, the borough records only go back to the 12th Century — and, sadly, the Scottish charter is lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's no getting away from the fact that between 1136 and 1156 the manor of Doncaster was in the hands of the Scottish crown","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EDespite all the dynastic complexities, irrational impulses and duplicitous tendencies of the monarchs of the time, it was also true that, on a war path, King David I seized pockets of northern England during several attempted takeovers. Likewise, it was true that, to prevent further military incursions, David was given Doncaster as a sweetener, as well as being bribed with parts of Cumberland and Lancashire, and that his son and heir, Prince Henry of Scotland, is credited with making Doncaster a Scottish borough. In time, it was also true that David continued his warmongering in northern England — breaking the terms of the original treaty — and Henry II of England, the successor to King Stephen, regained control of Doncaster some 21 years later in 1157, after both David and Henry died in the early 1150s. That's all to say that Doncaster was still officially Scottish even though it was retaken by the English.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EConfused? You’d have every right to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Doncaster Minster set against sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAnother problem, Dr Kelham informed me, was that Doncaster's 18th-Century agricultural prosperity meant few relics from the past remain. \"It's especially tricky to find anything related to the Middle Ages as the town effectively did away with its history,\" he said. \"The timber-framed buildings were regenerated in a Georgian style, so it changed the town's character and explains why it's so very different to York, for instance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOften bypassed by visitors for this far more popular northern city, Doncaster remains a delight to wander. Other English towns have the same Victorian-era train station, interconnected shopping precincts and inner-city industrial units, but there are certain draws here that place it on a level with other handsome Yorkshire towns like Harrogate and Ripon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere are the golden ivory stonework spires of gothic \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.doncasterminster.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoncaster Minster\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, designed by Victorian Gothic architect George Gilbert Scott. The beautifully embellished halls of the adorned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doncaster.gov.uk\u002Fservices\u002Fculture-leisure-tourism\u002Fmarkets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECorn Exchange\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and iron-clad Wool Market. And beyond those, Downton Abbey-style \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\u002Fbrodsworth-hall-and-gardens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrodsworth Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, unaltered since the 1860s and one of many English country house treasure boxes with a darker colonial history connected to a slaveholding past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut there are also several sites in Doncaster with a palpable Scottish connection, and, at times, it feels as if there are flashbulb memories of minor histories at virtually every intersection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThis is where the Flying Scotsman, the world record-holding steam locomotive, was built in 1923 at the Doncaster Railway Works and where its engineer, Edinburgh-born Sir Nigel Gresley, now has a public square named in his honour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo the city's south-west, standing high above a curve of the River Don, is imagination-sparking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\u002Fconisbrough-castle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConisbrough Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But for the used car dealerships that cluster around the limestone hill, the bedraggled ruin from the 11th-Century could be in remote Aberdeenshire or on Loch Ness. It is evocative and medieval like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dunnottarcastle.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDunnottar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, turreted and crumbling like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Fsee-do\u002Furquhart-castle-p245811\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUrquhart\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn fact, it feels so Scottish that it inspired Scottish historical novelist Sir Walter Scott's swashbuckling adventure Ivanhoe, where is it recast as Coningsburgh Castle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"In that pleasant district of Merry England which is watered by the river Don, there extended in ancient times a large forest… and the pleasant town of Doncaster,\" wrote Scott, and these words are stencilled high on the entrance hall wall inside the Danum, currently Doncaster's best portal to the mid-11th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The ruined castle at Conisbrough, South Yorkshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo get there, I even found myself walking down Scot Lane. I wondered if all these motifs spoke to a subconscious need to permeate the town with a hint of Scotland, even if only in subtle ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBefore my visit to Doncaster, I also decided to canvas the sharpest minds in British medieval academia to get their views on the town's contentious backstory, reaching out to professors, academics and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nms.ac.uk\u002Fnational-museum-of-scotland\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museum of Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And in reappraising the relationship between Stephen and England and David and Scotland, there appeared to be one dominant school of thought. It was a fascinating story, yes, but also one that remains mired in historical half-truths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Quite how solid the border really was is debatable, and quite where Scotland stopped and England began, not necessarily clear","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"While, technically, I guess Scotland never ceded Doncaster back to England, it had never necessarily been Scottish at any point,\" Dr Stephen Marritt, an expert on the reign of King Stephen from the University of Glasgow, told me. \"Around this time, the Normans had really only moved into English Cumbria just before 1100 and right across the border there was, to some extent, a society with more in common with each other than the rest of England or Scotland. Quite how solid the border really was is debatable, and quite where Scotland stopped and England began, not necessarily clear.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAnother take was offered by Professor Richard Oram, lecturer in medieval and environmental history at the University of Stirling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The David I and Henry story is a fascinating one, even if the 'Doncaster-is-still-Scottish' aspect is, sadly, nonsense,\" he replied by email. \"All of the lands given to David and Henry by King Stephen by the Treaty of Durham were held as fiefs of the English Crown, not as annexed territories of Scotland, and were lost when David and Henry broke the treaty in 1138 (when they invaded northern England twice). And huge 'what-ifs' surround it. What would have happened if David I had captured York, which he nearly did? Or Henry II of England had honoured his promise and left the King of Scots in control of the north? So, this story is all built on a misunderstanding of the post-1138 situation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn the train leaving Doncaster, my head was scrambled by what ifs and why nots. What I had wanted from the town was clear-cut answers, but I left instead with a cluster of complex, time-misted theories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhich is to say the coda, of a sort, is that this persistent legend shouldn't be a footnote in history. It is more of a transition point, telling those keen to delve deeper into British history about 12th-Century England and Scotland, the nature of barons, land ownership and fiefdoms, the civil war of King Stephen's reign and the battle for northern England. And, perhaps, that might be the best way to see it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-20T19:32:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 'Scottish' town stranded in England","headlineShort":"An English town Scotland never returned","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sunny Bar street under blue sky in Doncaster, South Yorkshire","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.5228","longitude":"1.1285","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Sunny Bar street under blue sky in Doncaster, South Yorkshire","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nine hundred years ago, the Yorkshire town of Doncaster was given to Scotland and never returned. Or so a quirk of history claims.","summaryShort":"The story remains tucked away within the academic footnotes of British history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-19T19:34:48.641876Z","entity":"article","guid":"c94075ae-0846-4c87-b6af-d6e09bc5da9e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:36:02.998764Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762264},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding","_id":"62df7ed843d9f46d95451d30","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Sticky toffee pudding marries flavour, regional culture and history, but tensions around its origins remain.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhere is the best place in the world for dessert? Is it Japan, with its sweet mochi rice dumplings, matcha-flavoured ice cream and agar jelly anmitsu? Or is it Italy, with its coffee-soaked tiramisu and shell-shaped cannoli? How about France, with its creme brulee, choux profiteroles and tarte tatin?  No. No. And no.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile these praiseworthy destinations all have their own world-class sweets, there is one above all others that delivers such sugary oomph that it can lead those with a serious sweet tooth straight into the dentist's chair.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis place is England and – more specifically – Cumbria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is hard to convey how special Cumbrian desserts and puddings are because most people don't know what England's north-west county is responsible for. This trail of taste begins with thrillingly unique dishes like Cumberland rum nicky, a lattice-topped crystallised ginger and fruit tart; rum butter, a lightly-spiced sweet sauce; Borrowdale teabread, a tea-soaked cake; Grasmere gingerbread, an intensely spicy shortbread; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180306-how-kendal-mint-cake-was-the-worlds-first-energy-bar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKendal Mint Cake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a peppermint tablet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, much of Cumbria's culinary success, in Britain at least, derives from the ubiquitous presence of one dish that is – at times – hailed as the world's most popular dessert. Eat out in the county, particularly in the Lake District, and you will see the same dish on the menu, over and over again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe dessert in question is sticky toffee pudding and it is a sweet that hums with happiness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Village of Cartmel, Cumbria, England","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPlain flour, eggs, cream and butter provide the backbone, while the exotica comes from finely chopped dates, soft brown muscovado sugar and, perhaps, a splash of vanilla. Perfecting the recipe isn't something you pick up overnight and this unapologetically sweet, figgy sponge soaked in treacle-like toffee syrup has become the culinary symbol of the wider Lake District. Even one spoonful here is a rite of passage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E •  \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190710-the-strange-story-of-britains-oldest-sweet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's oldest (and oddest) sweet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210606-cornwall-the-uks-forgotten-fifth-nation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's forgotten 'fifth' nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E •  \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180306-how-kendal-mint-cake-was-the-worlds-first-energy-bar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's first energy bar?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut dig a little deeper, and the origin and ownership of this beloved dessert and national treasure is disputed. Multiple claims and contradictions exist at home and abroad, and in the tiny historical village of Cartmel, which has become custodian to England's most famous version of the pudding, the dessert's true origins are hard to pin down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've championed it, embraced it and pushed it forward more than anyone else,\" said Sarah Holliday, co-owner of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cartmelvillageshop.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and manager of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cartmelvillageshop.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECartmel Village Shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But we did not invent it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is a conundrum summed up perfectly by Cumbria-based author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tessbaxter.com\u002Ffood-writer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETess Baxter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in her book The Lake District and Cumbria in Recipes and Photographs, where she wrote: \"Sticky toffee pudding is such a favourite today that it seems that it must always have been around. However, it is a relatively recent addition to the local recipe book, having been introduced by the Sharrow Bay Hotel on Ullswater in the early 1970s.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUllswater, one of Cumbria's most beautiful lakes, couldn't have been a more perfect place to start a love affair with the pudding, I thought. Seen on the map, and with a dollop of imagination, the water body looks like an upside-down dessert spoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View towards Buttermere in The Lake District","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI read Baxter's claim while visiting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebeacon-whitehaven.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Beacon Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Cumbrian port town of Whitehaven on the Irish Sea, my first stop on a pudding detective hunt across the county. Vestiges of the town's maritime history were on display, and from a gallery overlooking the quaysides, I could see where coffee, rum, dates and sugar were once imported from plantations in the Caribbean. During the 17th and 18th Centuries, warehouses sprang up along the docks and such was the quantity of sugar coming into the harbour that one of the quays still bears the name \"Sugar Tongue\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIs this where sticky toffee pudding's true origins lie?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The harbour was once England's third biggest in the 18th Century,\" learning and collections manager Alan Gillon told me, looking out across the Solway Firth. \"Imagine the harbour filled with 200 tall ships laden with goods and textiles. Hard to believe really, but the roots of Cumbria's sweet tooth was born here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The roots of Cumbria's sweet tooth was born here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELong gone are the days when customs and excise boats patrolled the coast with the aim of preventing and catching smugglers. While crucial trade links existed between Whitehaven and the Americas, and plenty of goods were legally imported into the port, passing collier ships acquired bootlegged goods and smuggling flourished between the north of England, Scotland, Ireland and the Isle of Man.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChief among the smuggled goods? Sugar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seemed more than coincidence that the two most characteristic ingredients of sticky toffee pudding — sugar and dates — once flowed freely into Cumbria. Perhaps, subconsciously, this set the scene and planted the seed for what followed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The harbour at Whitehaven on the coast of Cumbria","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExploring further afield – and leapfrogging back through the centuries — the next stop on my journey took me to Ullswater, one hour inland and deep into the heart of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lakedistrict.gov.uk\u002F\"\u003ELake District National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Here, it soon became clear that the crux of the pudding's story has faded over time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Sharrow Bay Hotel, one of the first country house hotels in Britain, is a victim of the Covid pandemic, with the parent company placed in liquidation and visitors mourning the loss. Local lore claims the sticky toffee recipe was created here and held in the hotel's vaults, with staff having to sign an agreement to safeguard the pudding's secret. All of this, understandably, is hard to prove today. Former co-owner and the pudding's original champion, Francis Coulson, who first named it \"icky sticky toffee pudding\", passed away in 1998.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf the backstory is legitimate, then you should also know that there is an immediate counterclaim. Canada maintains a stake in this creation myth, and it is a contention given weight by accounts of the hotel's co-owner and Coulson's partner Brian Sack from his time in the Royal Air Force during World War Two. Supposedly, the idea for the pudding's toffee sauce was sparked when he met two Canadian pilots using maple syrup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother claim takes this storyline further, positing that the original recipe was, in fact, handwritten by the Canadian air force personnel and passed on to a hotel manager while lodging in nearby Lancashire. In the years that followed, only then did the recipe make its way to Ullswater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdmittedly, it's not hard to imagine how the combination of a traditional Lancashire-style bread pudding and a puddle of Canadian maple syrup gave rise to the irresistible aromas of my favourite dessert. So, could sticky toffee pudding be Canadian? After all, Quebec's deliciously butterscotch-heavy \u003Cem\u003Epouding chômeur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is hardly a world apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Pouding chômeur served in an enamel dish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, in other parts of Britain, there are places with similarly cavalier assertions. One such spot is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FUdny-Arms-Hotel-Newburgh-Aberdeenshire-106640881011584\u002F\"\u003EUdny Arms Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Newburgh, Aberdeenshire, which once claimed to have first served the desert in 1967; while another is the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgait-inn-millington.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGait Inn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Millington, Yorkshire. Here, so the story goes, the former landlady put the dessert on the menu as far back as 1907. All of these tangled histories add to the sense that sticky toffee pudding seems to have been born fully realised.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, even without knowing it, many of us have probably tasted the cake-like pudding in some guise elsewhere. If you ask an Australian, you might be told the dense-like cake is, in fact, Australian sticky date pudding. Likewise, you could hear the same story in New Zealand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Ullswater offers a window into Cumbria's past, nowhere understands sticky toffee pudding today better than Cartmel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you ask an Australian, you might be told the dense-like cake is, in fact, Australian sticky date pudding","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven to someone accustomed to visiting England's prettiest towns, Cartmel is striking. On any given day, the village is as busy as a beehive with dessert seekers, and from its 16th-Century market square to the 800-year-old priory, built by Augustinian canons in 1220, there is one word on everyone's lips: pudding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sticky toffee pudding is my life,\" said Sarah Holliday, when we sat to eat – what else? – one of her world-famous desserts upstairs at the Cartmel Village Shop. \"It's been all consuming. It's my livelihood and kept my family in business all these years. It's amazing, really.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Exterior of Broadrayne Farm and the Yan in Grasmere","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince making the first pudding in 1984, the Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding Company has sold in excess of 10 million puds. What's more, upwards of 1,000 are sold from across the shop's counter every week. The secret sauce here is not only the atmospheric backdrop, but the unwavering reliance on local, organic ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Big companies have asked us to make our puddings cheaper, but we won't scrimp on ingredients,\" said Holliday. \"No margarine; real butter. No syrup; dark muscovado sugar. Eggs from down the road. Double cream from the local milkman.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf I had learned one truth on my Cumbrian trip, it was that there is no such thing as too many puddings. Any eatery or inn in Cumbria has to be judged by its desserts, and one last outing took me north to the Cumbrian village of Grasmere and to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theyan.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EThe Yan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a converted 17th-Century farm bistro, which makes a great deal of its countryside comfort food. What better place to try my last sticky toffee pud?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAgainst stiff competition, chef Will Manley's was a dessert worth daydreaming about. It was gooey and sickly sweet, but in a good way. Raisiny, batter-thick and drowning in toffee sauce. It demanded my full attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, I raised my spoon, loosened a notch from my belt and, in the name of research, saluted this contentious, if enigmatic, prince of puddings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-16T11:26:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The contentious origins of England's famous pudding","headlineShort":"England's disputed national treasure","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Slice of sticky toffee pudding served with cream","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.1993","longitude":"-2.9496","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Slice of sticky toffee pudding served with cream","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Sticky toffee pudding marries flavour, regional culture and history, but tensions around its origins remain.","summaryShort":"Multiple claims and contradictions exist both in Britain and abroad","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-15T22:57:05.862875Z","entity":"article","guid":"c689120a-a60d-432b-aa79-ec9e28af3856","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:16:45.125614Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762265},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","_id":"62df7f9843d9f41b075efc99","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI learned several new words during my time in Shetland, the distant island chain drifting between Scotland and Norway. One of them was \u003Cem\u003Eequinoctial\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. It means \"of or relating to the equinox\". It is frequently used to describe equinoctial gales, which can feel relentless this far north when the seasons change in spring and autumn. In a place as exposed to the elements as Shetland, they can be definitive; on its most distant island of Foula, they can act as a sort of gatekeeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003E\"Things are likely to get pretty entertaining,\" said pilot Marshall Wishart as we boarded his BN-2B Islander to fly from the airport outside Shetland's largest town, Lerwick, to the airstrip on Foula, 31 miles west. Our departure had already been delayed by the gales for many hours and for a time the forecast said that no flying would be possible for several days. Instead, however, half-an-hours' notice was given to scramble to the airport and make a narrow weather window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIn a year dominated by domestic travel, Foula has perhaps been the most extreme option available to Brits. Sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule – Latin bywords for extremely remote destinations – it is said to be the most remote inhabited British island, reached by an unpredictable ferry or the frequently hectic 17-minute flight from the Shetland Mainland. Travel due west beyond it and there is nothing but the tumultuous North Atlantic until the east coast of Greenland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EOn the day I flew, the equinoctial gales were strong enough to decapitate any white horses forming below. By that point in early October, the island's ferry hadn't sailed for a couple of weeks and wasn't expected to try again for several more. This meant that the 30 or so permanent residents on the island depended wholly on the vagaries of light aircraft to bring them supplies. \"It could be like this until the next equinox really,\" said Sheila Gear, Foula resident of almost 60 years. \"It's only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you're used to it if you live here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Foula sheep lying on grass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ENonetheless, there is a limited amount of tourism, with just two guest houses – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.selfcateringfoula.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Burns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Faccommodation\u002Fristie-self-catering-p1502271\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and a few camping sites providing accommodation. The majority of visitors are birders, drawn here by the tens of thousands of birds that make this blustery island home over summer. Otherwise, Foula offers few distractions for those not interested in the outdoors: there is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, not even a shop to buy basic supplies. Visitors must bring everything with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ETo some people this is a surprise, but it is not the only one on Foula. Before making the long journey north, I asked some Shetlander friends what to expect. Not only had none of them been before, but they also didn't even know anyone who had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK village that lost its cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA small Scottish isle with a big story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIf outsiders know anything at all about the island it is likely to be that the residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, having refused to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in line with the rest of the country in 1752. They may also know that this was the last place in the United Kingdom to speak a Norse language, Norn. However, they may not be aware that the reason the language finally died out was because of a pandemic – not Covid-19, but smallpox, lethal waves of which washed over the island in the 18th Century, killing the majority of residents. When Foula was repopulated by English-speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EMany of the words that endure today are names of seabirds. There are maalie (northern fulmars), tystie (guillemots), solan gos (gannets) and many more besides. Above them all, stands the great skua, or bonxie as it's known locally. The huge, brown gull-like birds can be difficult creatures to love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EEven Gear, who has spent most of her life around them, finds their characteristics to be challenging, bordering on disgusting. \"The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support,\" she told me, between bonxie stories too upsetting to repeat here. \"Where's that going to end? It's not sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"House with sea stack behind in Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe bonxie has no claws with which to kill its prey. It does, however, have the instincts of a predator, meaning it must use its barbed beak to pitilessly peck at its victims. Lambs are not safe, and even Shetland pony foals can be targeted. One night I saw a dead rabbit on the side of Foula's only significant road; by morning, great skuas had disassembled it to something unrecognisable. The smaller Arctic skua (skooty aalin) is hardly a shrinking violet itself, but even it loses chicks to the bonxies. The island's sturdy crows may have larger brains and a reputation for similarly callous behaviour, but they too give way to the piratical bonxies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EYet even these screaming brigands can't face Foula in winter, instead flying south to Africa to scavenge, rob and kill on a whole new continent before returning in spring. \"For all I've said about them,\" continued Gear, as though trying to strike a conciliatory tone, \"we're still really glad to see them come back each time. They're part of life here and we're fond of them, even if we're not so fond of their behaviour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EBirds aside, there is extraordinary beauty on Foula, too. The majority of the settlement is on the east side of the island, sheltering from the most violent of the North Atlantic's furies. Disparate farms are surrounded by peat moss bogs that are dutifully patrolled by mismatching Foula sheep and Shetland ponies. While these scenes can look pretty, especially with the island's satisfying ruddy hills in the background, the north coast is significantly more beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIt's there that Garda stands, a hulking three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean. The same is true nearby at the sensational Da Kame, the site of most of Foula's birds' nests. They have picked an exceptionally scenic spot; among the highest cliffs in Europe, this vast avian city looks especially dramatic at day's end when the sun's dying rays bounce off its mighty walls as waves crash in below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe granite landscape does a lot better here than metal – salty gales eat at vehicles, meaning they rarely last more than a few years. Up and down the road, I saw abandoned cars stripped to skeletons by the elements. When I took a walk to the island's graveyard, I found that the same wind had feasted on headstones, leaving most of them unreadable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coastline of Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI explained to Gear that while I thoroughly enjoyed my time on her island, I had no notion to move there. I would wilt in the face of its challenges. \"It can be a difficult place, especially in winter,\" she replied with a slight chuckle. \"There's the darkness and the continual wind and rain. Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it. The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EA hard island for hard people and even harder birds. Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage, summed it up on one especially windy morning. \"This is not a place where humanity is in the ascendency,\" he said. \"It's just clinging on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-09T20:41:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Foula: Britain's most remote inhabited island","headlineShort":"Britain's most remote inhabited island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.1313","longitude":"-2.0695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","summaryShort":"Only around 30 permanent residents live on Foula","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","entity":"article","guid":"f0feb26a-d291-45df-a4fb-ece8fa8711a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T03:53:28.950894Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762265},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day","_id":"630bde8043d9f46d9838ba7d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables"],"bodyIntro":"Located between Britain and France, the Minquiers have long been subject to the squabbles of dukedoms and governments, torn between Normans, Britons and French for 1,000-plus years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe southern-most building in the British Isles is not a crumbling castle, built to repel would-be conquerors; nor is it a lonely lighthouse, flashing a warning beacon to passing seafarers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is a public toilet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This toilet has the distinction of being the most southern building in the British Isles,\" reads its neatly printed sign. \"Please use with care! The nearest alternative is Jersey 11 miles – Chausey 10 miles.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This toilet has the distinction of being the most southern building in the British Isles. Please use with care!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe loo sits on the edge of a cluster of stone cottages on the miniscule Maîtresse Île, the only island in the tiny Minquiers archipelago to bear any imprint of civilisation. This is the British Isles' southern frontier: a group of islands and reefs 10 miles south of Jersey, at the mercy of one of the largest tidal ranges in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt low tide, the islands have a land area around 10 miles long and 7 miles wide – larger than Jersey itself, or the city of Manchester. At high tide, just six hours later, they disappear: barely a few rocks protrude from the water, adding up to around 0.004 square miles. This lends the Minkies, as they are known to locals, a strange atmosphere: part rocky desert-island chain, part watery Atlantis, straddling the boundary between land and sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cvjmd6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis is a liminal place – a place in between – in more ways than one. Floating between Britain and France, the Minquiers have long been subject to not just the whims of the tides, but the squabbles of dukedoms and governments, torn between Normans, Britons and French for more than 1,000 years. Today, they are under the jurisdiction of Jersey, counting as a self-governing part of the British Isles but not part of the United Kingdom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's been fought over since 955 CE,\" said Josh Dearing, skipper of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jerseyseafaris.com\u002F\"\u003EJersey Seafaris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E boat that had just ferried me to Maîtresse over a pancake-flat English Channel, \"but the buildings have been here since the 1800s.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDearing – who doubles as a tour guide – led me through Maîtresse's ghostly village, its stone buildings in varying states of disrepair and decay. \"They were built by fishermen from the harbour of La Rocque [in southern Jersey], and also miners and quarrymen [who were] after the island's granite,\" said Dearing. Foragers for vraic – seaweed used as fertiliser – would also make landing here. On the island's northern shore are the ruins of a former hospital, used to treat miners' injuries during the quarrying period in the 19th Century. The buildings sit on the only part of the island that doesn’t vanish with the tides. For the same reason, this is the only scrap of land on the Minquiers that supports greenery, in the form of scented pelargoniums – planted by fishermen who used their soft leaves as toilet paper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDearing pointed out a neatly carved graffito on the hospital's outside wall, displaying the initials \"C BS\" above a date: 1865. Most of the buildings date from this time. Nowadays a few of the cottages are still used by fishermen, but most are privately owned by a handful of Jersey families, who will spend a night or two on Maîtresse when the weather is fine. There are no permanent residents, and no hotels – or anywhere else – for tourists to stay. Sales of the cottages are rare, and the owners are protective of their property.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cvjmd4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs well they might be, for invaders from near and far have long coveted the Minquiers for their strategic and economic importance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Whoever controls the Minquiers controls the fishing grounds,\" explained maritime historian Doug Ford, \"and for the last 200 years this has also meant the territorial waters. The offshore reefs create a massive barrier, funnelling approaching vessels into easily monitored spaces.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Minquiers were ceded to Edward III of England in 1360, passed into the ownership of French monasteries, and were seized back by Henry V in 1413. They became a favoured hideout for pirates and smugglers who took advantage of the islands' remoteness and inaccessibility – these reefs are treacherous, and have dashed many vessels to shipwreck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Whoever controls the Minquiers controls the fishing grounds","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe islands were the setting for a diplomatic crisis in 1929, when a Parisian banker decided to build a house here; and again in 1939, when the French artist and yachtsman known as Marin-Marie carried a prefabricated hut to Maîtresse and raised the French flag over the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the occupying Nazis were booted out of Jersey on 9 May 1945 – the closest they got to the United Kingdom – a group of German soldiers remained marooned on the Minquiers for several weeks, unaware that the war was over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cvjmd2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Minquiers remained the source of long-standing dispute between England and France until 1953, when their legal position was finally settled – with the International Court of Justice declaring British sovereignty over the isles. That hasn't stopped their disputed status occasionally descending into farce. On four occasions in the last 40 years, the islands have been \"invaded\" by groups claiming to represent the Kingdom of Patagonia, an unrecognised state declared in 19th-Century Chile and Argentina by a crazed French lawyer, Orélie-Antoine de Tounens. His cause was revived a century later by his countryman Jean Raspail, a right-wing author famous for his controversial race-baiting novel Le Camp des Saints, which predicted that mass immigration would precipitate the downfall of Western civilisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERaspail was partial to what he called \"games that are not entirely games\"; elaborate publicity stunts such as his 1984 invasion of the Minquiers. Followed by a coterie of what the press at the time referred to as \"sozzled French students\", Raspail raised the blue, white and green tricolour of Patagonia over Maîtresse Île, claiming retaliation for Britain's invasion of the Falkland Islands. He returned in 1998, repainting the island's toilet hut in Patagonian colours, and repeated the feat in 2019 as a reaction to Brexit, this time replacing the toilet door sign with one declaring it the northern-most building in the Kingdom of Patagonia. In between, in 2012, came a softer gesture: on attempting to raise the Patagonian flag once more, the invading party discovered a child from a visiting Jersey family playing beneath the flagpole, so they contented themselves with sticking a miniature flag on the toilet door instead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOur boat tour stopped near Maîtresse to swim at a perfect sandbank, its blonde shores visibly expanding as the tide began its long retreat. Beneath the baby blue sky of a perfect summer's afternoon, it was hard to imagine that this was ever a battleground. Well-heeled Jersey families fired up barbecues and frolicked in the sea; the gleaming white hulls of yachts – not encroaching warships – crowded the horizon. Still, there remained a sense of eerie dislocation; even my phone wasn't sure where it was, its clock constantly flickering an hour forward then back again, in limbo between British and French time zones. I felt like I was in an episode of Lost, only with more deck shoes and pink shorts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cvjmcw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOystercatchers peeped overhead. On Maîtresse I had noticed wooden signs, reading warnings: \"Birds nesting. Do not go beyond this point\", and \"Gull nesting. Keep away!\". Dearing told me that the signs referred to the islands' black-backed gulls. \"Three times the size of normal seagulls, and 10 times as angry,\" he said. \"If you see me running – run after me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe birds are not the only animals making the most of the area's unspoilt ecosystem and relative dearth of humans. \"The Minquiers is a location of outstanding natural beauty, both above and below the tide line,\" said Sam Blampied, a PhD researcher studying the islands' marine ecology at the University of Plymouth. \"The large tidal range means the currents are particularly strong at times, and also means the intertidal area is vast. This has resulted in a diverse array of habitats.\" She mentioned colour-shifting cuttlefish and \"communities of peacock worms that look like bouquets of flowers on the seabed, a habitat that has rarely been recorded elsewhere\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The diversity of this unique place makes the Minquiers very special, whether that is its unusual geography or the array of wildlife that can be spotted","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jerseyheritage.org\u002Fexplore\u002Fgeopark\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe need to preserve the Minquiers' ecosystem is central to the cause of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jerseyheritage.org\u002Fexplore\u002Fgeopark\u002F\"\u003EAspiring Jersey Island Geopark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E project, which looks to secure Unesco Geopark status for Jersey and the surrounding area. \"The diversity of this unique place makes the Minquiers very special,\" said Millie Butel, who is leading the project, \"whether that is its unusual geography or the array of wildlife that can be spotted – shags diving headfirst into the sea to feed off sand eels and small fish, or an Atlantic grey seal breaking the surface to watch the bobbing boats.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe experienced exactly this as our boat departed the sandbank for the journey back to Jersey: the shiny, smooth head of a seal, observing us with the polite wariness of a neighbour investigating a disturbance over a garden fence. \"It would appear that from the earliest times, human activity on the reef has been of a fleeting, transient nature: Bronze Age seal hunters, quarrymen and fishermen,\" Ford had told me. To this day, this is a place that people may only pass through, permitted only as visitors on the shifting sands of Britain's eerie southern shore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-29T10:29:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The British islands that disappear every day","headlineShort":"Britain's disputed 'in between' isles","image":["p0cvjmdb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.9500","longitude":"-2.1330","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cvjmd2"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211019-the-scottish-town-stranded-in-england","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located between Britain and France, the Minquiers have long been subject to the squabbles of dukedoms and governments, torn between Normans, Britons and French for 1,000-plus years.","summaryShort":"They're home to the southern-most building in the British Isles: a public loo","tag":["tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-28T21:30:23.232672Z","entity":"article","guid":"776712b7-1fb2-4ae5-973d-abe8eae5f5ea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-29T10:31:06.469473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220828-the-british-islands-that-disappear-every-day","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1664008762264}},"tags":{"tag\u002Feco-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Feco-tourism","_id":"62df806343d9f4586f6852f5","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest eco-tourism stories from around the 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d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220924083922/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a 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