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.beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)} .location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase} .temperature-switcher{background:transparent;border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 0.2ex} .day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:0.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:0.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%} .weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0} .destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:0.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .image-card{position:relative}.image-card img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-card__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.image-card__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.image-card__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:90%}.image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}.image-card__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px} .filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848} .callout-box-card{background-color:#eaeaea;color:#4a4a4a;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:left}.callout-box-card img{height:100%;width:100%}.callout-box-card__container{padding:0.2rem 1.5rem}.callout-box-card__container h3{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin:1rem 0;text-transform:uppercase}.callout-box-card__container h4{font-size:28px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:35px}.callout-box-card__container .body{font-size:16px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px}.callout-box-card__container .body a{color:#4a4a4a;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-map{font:12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;overflow:hidden;position:relative;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(0,0,0,0)}.mapboxgl-canvas{position:absolute;left:0;top:0}.mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen{width:100%;height:100%}.mapboxgl-canary{background-color:salmon}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass{cursor:-webkit-grab;cursor:-moz-grab;cursor:grab;-moz-user-select:none;-webkit-user-select:none;-ms-user-select:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer{cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active{cursor:-webkit-grabbing;cursor:-moz-grabbing;cursor:grabbing}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pan-x pan-y}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pinch-zoom}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{position:absolute;pointer-events:none;z-index:2}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left{bottom:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right{right:0;bottom:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl{clear:both;pointer-events:auto;transform:translate(0)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 0 0 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 10px 0 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 0 10px 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 10px 10px 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group{border-radius:4px;background:#fff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){-moz-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);-webkit-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){box-shadow:0 0 0 2px ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button{width:29px;height:29px;display:block;padding:0;outline:none;border:0;box-sizing:border-box;background-color:transparent;cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid #ddd}.mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-position:50%}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner{border:0;padding:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled{cursor:not-allowed}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{opacity:.25}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible){box-shadow:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child{border-radius:4px 4px 0 0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child{border-radius:0 0 4px 4px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child{border-radius:inherit}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' 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data-bbc-title="The inventive women changing Venice" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220318071120/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/why-we-rule"><span>Why We Rule</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220318071120/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/arts-architecture">Arts & Architecture</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300"><a class="" target="" rel="" 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countryside","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09dxbd3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220318071120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484359}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","_id":"621e445645ceed6b8462ccb6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although many travellers assume that the “authentic” Venice is long gone, the city still harbours the last remnants of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVenetians have an uncanny ability to dodge, deflect, blend in, disappear in plain sight. Perhaps that's why so many travellers assume that “real” life in Venice was long ago trampled out of existence by hundreds of millions of tourist feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe truth is, the city still harbours an indigenous culture – the last remnant of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs. Yes, this way of life is endangered, but it is also very much alive. It’s just hard to detect with untrained eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVenice’s eye-catching buildings may be swathed in opulence: think of the shimmering mosaics that line Saint Mark’s Basilica; the lace-like Gothic stonework of the Ca’ d’Oro; or the chic yellow marble that clads the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. But when dressing themselves, Venetians would rather blend into the crowd than pop out of it, peacock-like, according to Venetian-born Sebastian Fagarazzi, co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fveneziaautentica.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVenezia Autentica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a social business devoted to preserving the city’s living culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They tend to wear neutral colours and eschew anything too shiny,” Fagarazzi said, adding that comfortable flats are a human right extended to all sexes, and, unlike other Italians, Venetians tend to frown on conspicuous designer labels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis penchant for personal discretion has ancient roots. The city was likely founded as Goths and Huns ransacked the crumbling Roman Empire in the 5th and 6th Centuries AD. According to legend and the scant historical evidence that remains, the first Venetians were rich merchants from the mainland who hid themselves and their treasure on some worthless-looking mudflats in the Venetian lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheir descendants went on to build great fortunes on trade secrets – knowing before their rivals where to buy goods cheap and where to sell them dear. Industrial, trade and state secrets were so vital that Venice established the Cancelleria Secreta, or Secret Chancellery, which even the doge, the city's elected leader, could not enter alone. And over the next 1,000 years, they transformed those mudflats into the strange and dazzling capital of a great mercantile empire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Movies portray Venice like this dark labyrinth, the perfect place to commit a crime","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe water-bound geography of their city still reinforces Venetian discretion today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Movies portray Venice like this dark labyrinth, the perfect place to commit a crime,” said Fagarazzi. \"But Venetians know it’s very much the opposite.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are no cars or trucks, he explained, to drown out indiscreet conversations. There are no woods or hinterland into which to escape. And even the darkest, narrowest back alley can be full of hidden eyes and ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We grew up feeling like wherever we went, someone’s \u003Cem\u003Enonna \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis watching you from behind lace curtains,” said Fagarazzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrench-born Valeria Duflot, cofounder of Venezia Autentica and Fagarazzi's girlfriend, learned this lesson early in their relationship. While on a solitary walk through the city, she bumped into Fagarazzi’s father. They chatted for a few minutes, and then she continued on her way. When Duflot returned home, she found Fagarazzi chuckling into his mobile phone. A friend had just texted to say that Valeria had been seen chatting with a man who “may or may not” have been Sebastian’s father. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Just thought you should know,” the friend wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Let’s just say, word travels fast here,” Duflot said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190623-the-us-island-that-speaks-elizabethan-english\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people speak Elizabethan English\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190708-the-city-that-launched-the-publishing-industry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy the italic font was created\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200409-the-history-of-balconies\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cultural history of the balcony\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is easy to understand why, centuries before Covid-19, Venetians wore masks as they went about their daily business. It was the only way to carve out a bit of freedom in a city with little privacy – and a respectable public face was, and still is, jealously guarded. The first mention of Venetian masks dates to the 13th Century, and by the 17th and 18th Centuries, elites wore them so frequently the government had to pass a law restricting their use to just three months a year, from Christmas to the start of Lent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe traditional Venetian disguise, known as a \u003Cem\u003Ebauta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, disguised much more than the wearer’s visage. A tricorn hat and long, tent-like cape obliterated any trace of the body underneath, and the mask’s jutting nose and mouth even altered the wearer’s voice. Contemporary mask-makers still manufacture \u003Cem\u003Ebautas. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPutting one on in front of a mirror is an uncanny experience, as you watch all traces of your identity disappear before your very eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExcept during Venice's famous Carnival celebration, such a getup would only serve to attract unwanted attention these days. However, Venetians do don a sort of virtual \u003Cem\u003Ebauta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E that lets other Venetians know when they want to be ignored.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELet’s say you’re having a bad day, for example, and want to remain anonymous through the city. That is no easy task in pedestrian-only streets where you are constantly bumping into friends and neighbours. And to ignore them would be considered rude in highly sociable Venice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe other option? Walk quickly, keep your head down, and when someone greets you, don’t slow down. Just offer a quick, backward-looking \u003Cem\u003Eciao \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand the flicker of a smile, and keep moving. Even if they see you’re having a bad day, they can pretend that you’re just running late, and everyone saves face.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo evade notice, Venetians even have their own language, which serves as an invisible veil that they can cast over their private world. Called Venexiàn, it is sometimes referred to as a dialect, but many linguists consider it a language in its own right. In his 1909 book Italian Hours, Henry James called Venexiàn “a delightful garrulous language [that] helps them to make Venetian life a long \u003Cem\u003Econversazione\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“This language, with its soft elisions, its odd transpositions, its kindly contempt for consonants and other disagreeables, has in it something peculiarly human and accommodating,” James continued.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames’ description holds true a century later. Walking in the back streets of the working-class Cannaregio and Castello neighbourhoods, you can still hear the singsong voices of neighbours who stop for a chat or call to each other from across a canal. Even if you don’t understand what they are saying, you will hear what linguists call a “lilting prosodic” cadence – the voice we use when talking to a beloved, or a small child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs Venice is increasingly overwhelmed by mass tourism, Venexiàn has evolved more and more into an “in-group” language, according to Ronnie Ferguson, professor of Italian at Saint Andrew’s University and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FA_Linguistic_History_of_Venice.html?id=mJApAQAAIAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Linguistic History of Venice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It has become a badge of identity and also a way to exclude outsiders,” Ferguson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt makes sense that Venetians want to keep their language exclusive. Historic Venice has fewer than 60,000 residents yet receives up to 30 million visitors annually. Thanks to Venexiàn, a Venetian can walk into a crowded bar or shop and, with a few choice phrases, establish kinship, win more attentive service, and perhaps even score a local’s-only discount on a meal or a glass of wine. In this way, Venexiàn establishes a virtual city within the city – one that only other Venetians can enter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It has become a badge of identity and also a way to exclude outsiders","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnfortunately, even Ferguson, whose mother was a native Venetian, sometimes feels excluded from the language that he knows so intimately.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Venetians are initially thrilled when I speak their language, though also taken aback because they see me as a foreigner,” he explained. “They prefer, after a little while, to switch to Italian. After all, I am not an insider.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdriano Valeri, a native of Abruzzo, had a similar experience when he trespassed onto Venice’s private language. When he arrived in the city to study painting at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia (Venice Academy of Fine Arts), Venexiàn was as foreign to him as Spanish or French. But he shared a studio with a Venetian-born student who spoke to him only in Venexiàn. Gradually, Valeri began to understand him. Soon he was responding in Venexiàn, and by year’s end he could do so fluently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen one evening, the cleaning lady was hustling him out of the building so she could lock up for the day. As usual, he asked her for a few more minutes – but this time in Venexiàn, not Italian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She stopped in her tracks, turned to face me, and in a very stern Italian said, ‘You sound \u003Cem\u003Eridiculous \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhen you speak in Venexiàn’,” said Valeri. He spent seven more years in Venice, but from then on only spoke Venexiàn in the confines of his shared studio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese stories may make Venetians sound clannish, but they are also naturally curious and open-minded. “And they do appreciate it when non-Venetians attempt the odd word or phrase,” said Ferguson. Try out classics like \u003Cem\u003Eun’ombra \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(“a glass of wine”), \u003Cem\u003Ebondi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(“hello”, pronounced “bon-DEE”), and \u003Cem\u003Eper piaser\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“please”, pronounced “pair pee-ah-SER”).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause their city is so thick with tourists, Venetians love to escape to the open waters of the lagoon. Few tourists ever venture here, because gondolas and water taxis are prohibitively expensive. And so the lagoon is one the best places to observe Venetians in their natural habitat, according to Fagarazzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe lagoon’s tiny, uninhabited islands are especially popular with younger people trying to escape prying parental eyes. A favourite spot, said Fagarazzi, is Poveglia, an island with a decaying psychiatric hospital. Even better is a \u003Cem\u003Ebacan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – one of the lagoon’s sandbars that turn into little islands at low tide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A bacanis perfect for a picnic during the day,” Fagarazzi said. “Or it can serve as a very mellow bar at night.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese sandy shindigs tend to be small, low-key affairs: some beer and a boom box, with the volume low enough for the distinctive lilt of Venexiàn voices to be heard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd when the tide rises again, all traces of the Venetian party will be washed away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-14T21:21:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The private language of Venice","headlineShort":"Why outsiders rarely see 'real' Venice","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4046987","longitude":"12.2472506","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although many travellers assume that the “authentic” Venice is long gone, the city still harbours the last remnants of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs.","summaryShort":"There’s a virtual city within the city – one that only other Venetians can enter","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:56:21.272247Z","entity":"article","guid":"fd3a6e96-ffc2-4c67-a45b-822e6333ab56","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:39:25.147896Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484330},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice","_id":"621e444c45ceed67eb5eb012","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Velvet was once among the most coveted fabrics in the world, but now only one family in Italy produces it the traditional way – and can trace its textile tradition back to 1499.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Rare splendour","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EWith its water-lapped palaces, canal-laced islands and golden basilicas rising from the tides, Venice is a floating masterpiece of creativity and craftsmanship. A metropolis of marble conceived from a cluster of mudflats, the City of Water’s fairy-tale setting has inspired centuries of artists and inventors. But while Venice’s urban fabric has always shaped the city, its fine fabrics once spun the fashion world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EFrom the 13th to 18th Centuries, Venice was the epicentre of the luxury textile trade, and no fabric from the maritime republic was more coveted than velvet. At the height of the industry in the 1500s, the clacking of 6,000 wooden looms echoed throughout the Venetian lagoon as the city’s Guild of Silk Weavers slowly wove velvet from thousands of silk threads to supply sumptuous patterned garments to the highest rung of Renaissance nobility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EToday, there's only one company left in Venice – and all of Italy – producing velvet on traditional wooden looms: the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.luigi-bevilacqua.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuigi Bevilacqua Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small, family-run business that can trace its velvet-weaving lineage back to 1499. And if you follow the rhythmic clattering to a windowless workshop hidden off the Grand Canal, you’ll find a team of loyal weavers single-handedly preserving the secrets of Venetian velvet from sinking into oblivion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Workshop of wonders","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ELike the city that holds it, the Bevilacqua workshop is adrift in a world of its own place and time, and entering the dusty studio feels like stepping inside the ghost of a medieval mill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ESome 3,500 designs and weave drafts dating from the Middle Ages to the 1920s sit stacked floor-to-ceiling. A maze of ropes and rigging criss-crosses 18 towering looms from the 1700s. And two ancient circular warps inspired by sketches from Leonardo da Vinci shake the creaky wooden floor with each hand-cranked turn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Not much has changed here over the years,” explained company director Alberto Bevilacqua, surrounded by a plush trove of centuries-old silk damasks, brocades and gilt-embroidered tapestries. “The rising tides cause the floor to flood more often now, but we still produce velvet the same way it was made 300 years ago: thread by thread and entirely by hand.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p06rnpfk","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A remarkable thread","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlberto’s great-grandfather, Luigi, opened the workshop in 1875 across the Grand Canal, and today, it is the oldest active velvet-weaving mill in Italy. Yet, the family’s textile traditions trace back more than 500 years, as evidenced by a 1499 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.luigi-bevilacqua.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2014\u002F08\u002FGiovanni-Mansueti-San-Marco-trascinato-nella-Sinagoga-1499-Liechtenstein-Museum-Vienna.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epainting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showing a parade of Venetian aristocracy in flowing velvet togas with the inscription: ‘Giacomo Bevilacqua, weaver’. Since then, the intricate techniques and patterns of Venetian velvet have been passed down through a remarkable thread of artists in the Bevilacqua family – each of whom has guarded them tightly before revealing them to a trusted team of weavers trained in the family workshop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIn the past 143 years, the family business has woven velvet for popes, kings and more than a dozen royal palaces. Its yellow-patterned velvet hangs in the White House’s Oval Office, its crimson ciselé covers chairs in the Kremlin, and it was an official supplier to the Vatican for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, looking at the faded entries from the company’s water-stained ledger books is a glimpse into a rarefied world: there are commissions from the Shah of Iran, the Sheik of Kuwait and six members of the Swedish royal family. Egypt’s King Farouk ordered a kilometre of green velvet; composer Gordon Getty’s wife wanted her living room to resemble a velvet-wrapped theatre; and the Maharajah of Gwalior requested an embroidery of his coat of arms showing two raised pythons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Time-honoured tools","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERoyal patrons have come and gone over the years, but the company still uses the same ancient looms that Luigi Bevilacqua salvaged from the city’s abandoned silk guild decades after Napoleon conquered Venice and closed its mills in 1806.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“There are certain details that you simply can’t reproduce on a machine,” Bevilacqua said, passing under the workshop’s canopy of wooden masts. “This tradition has been lost elsewhere because it is such a slow, careful craft.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EJust then, a rhythmic cacophony of clacking rang through the studio as weaver Silvia Longo pulled the levers of her antique loom to life. With each pass of the beam and step on the treadle, a tiny sliver of vermillion velvet destined for the Royal Palace in Dresden gradually expanded under her fingers. She explained that each weaver can only produce about 25cm of fabric a day, and that she and two other weavers have been working on the 740m design every day for the last three years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe secret of Venetian velvet is its sheer complexity. It has always been so desirable because it has always been so difficult to produce,” said Doretta Davanzo Poli, textile professor at Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Venice’s interwoven velvet history","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVenice was importing silk from the Byzantines before Marco Polo’s journeys east, but it was the arrival of 300 asylum-seeking weavers from Lucca in the 1300s who taught the Venetians how to loop, warp and cut silky-smooth threads into a dense, velvety pile. The \u003Cem\u003ELucchesi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E learned the skills by trading with Asian merchants, and the newly settled artists quickly established the Republic of Venice’s Guild of Velvet Weavers in 1347. By the 1500s, records show that more than 30,000 of Venice’s residents (roughly one-fifth its population) worked in the silk and velvet trades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Textiles became the most valuable source of wealth for the republic,” said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwarwick.ac.uk\u002Ffac\u002Farts\u002Fhistory\u002Fpeople\u002Fstaff_index\u002Flmola\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuca Molà\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a historian at the UK’s University of Warwick who has written two books on the Venetian silk industry. “Velvet required more material and time to create than other fabrics, so it was more expensive, and Venice was exporting it around the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe velvets, silks and damasks spilling out of the Bevilacqua showroom not only plunge visitors back to the days when Venice was a gateway between East and West, but also testify to the city’s rich tapestry of trading partners. There are patterned swathes showing winged Persian lions, tasselled cushions emblazoned with bare-breasted Greek sirens and draped silk brocades woven with Chinese lettering. And, as a way to ensure their sartorial reign, the Venetians did something crafty: they developed ways to decorate and produce velvet that were so intricate that no-one else could replicate it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"From patterns to patent law","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAround the time Giacomo Bevilacqua started his velvet business in the late 1400s, Venice’s velvet guilds began weaving with an elevated sense of sophistication. Gilded backgrounds appeared. Glittering metals were woven around silk threads. And the height of Venetian velvet artistry emerged: the \u003Cem\u003Esoprarizzo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a double-pile technique that’s still slowly produced by the Bevilacqua weavers, in which one layer of cut velvet that absorbs light lays atop a lighter curl that reflects it, creating an undulating texture that ripples like water as your hand passes over it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EVenice jealously guarded the secrets of its soprarizzo– so much so, according to Molà, that the most skilled weavers were prohibited from leaving the republic for fear that they’d share the technique with rival manufacturers. As Venice’s many guilds expanded, the city developed an innovative idea in 1474 to protect its glass, jewellery and – above all – textile profits: it \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wired.com\u002F2012\u002F03\u002Fmarch-19-1474-venice-enacts-a-patently-original-idea\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecreated patent law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“One of the great legacies of Venice’s craft guilds was the establishment of intellectual property,” Molà said. “No other city had ever protected inventions before, and that further cemented the city as a hub of creativity and new ideas.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVenice changed the way societies thought about clothing. Textiles were no longer something people wore every day for practical reasons, but as a brief choreography to represent the wealth of the family. Consumerism became fashionable,” said Chiara Squarcina, curator of Venice’s Mocenigo Palace of Textiles and Costumes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Renaissance couture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile velvet spun Venice’s textile trade to new heights, it also emerged as a symbol of power, wealth and taste. The lavish threads lined the halls of the city’s grandest palaces and richest churches, and paintings portraying Venetian nobility by local artists like Titian and Tintoretto reveal its role in shaping one’s image. Kings and popes wrapped velvet under their crowns, senators and cardinals wore crimson-velvet robes or sashes, and noblewomen walked on velvet-encased high heels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“In Venice, a person’s status was immediately recognised by the clothing and fabric they wore, and no fabric was more valuable than velvet,” Poli said. “Venice was the greatest influencer of Renaissance fashion through the 1500s, but as the secret of the soprarizzo passed onto other Italian cities and throughout Europe, it all changed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EBy the time Napoleon sailed in in 1797, Venice’s velvet mills were already on their last legs. The little leader closed the city’s guilds to reduce competition with France, and the lagoon’s looms lay silent and unused until Luigi Bevilacqua dusted them off decades later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The weavers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAt the start of the 1900s, nearly 100 weavers worked at the Luigi Bevilacqua Company. Girls as young as 12 would come into the workshop to help their mothers change the threads or lay the spools. After a six- to eight-year apprenticeship, they’d become weavers by age 20 and often stay until they retired.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EToday, there are just seven weavers, and looking at the rows of idle looms, Bevilacqua admitted that it has become harder to find artists with the passion and patience for the craft. As in the past, the seven weavers each began as apprentices, training under experts who had worked at the company for 40 to 50 years. Novices may spend a year winding warps and punching Jacquard cards before moving to the lightest looms, which, as Longo explained, take some getting used to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You have to learn to feel the loom, to understand it. That can take a full year of working every day,” she said. “Every loom has its own sound. If something is wrong, you may hear a faint noise and have to find one individual thread among thousands and replace it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Patient process","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll Bevilacqua velvets start as a design, and the evolution from initial pattern to finished product is a painstaking process. Weavers begin by hand-drawing the design on a millimetre grid. Every half-millimetre of the grid represents a cardboard Jacquard card that is punched through with a hammer, and every punched hole in the cards corresponds to a thread. If a design has a repeat of 1.5m, it requires 3,000 cards. After weavers tie the cards together one by one and hoist them atop the loom, the real work begins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext, the loom is prepared. Depending on the size and complexity of the pattern, this may take up to six months and involve knotting a thicket of 16,000 threads by hand. Weavers start by spinning the vertical warp while counting and crossing the threads with their fingers. Once the vertical warp is wound, they transfer it to the horizontal warp and hand-crank it into place. It’s then wound onto a warp beam, carried to the loom and slowly laid using a special adhesive to keep the slippery silk threads in place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, the manual weaving begins. Hidden under every complex soprarizzo cut are two iron rods – one rounded, and one ridged – that must be moved as the velvet expands. With each pull of the beam, weavers carefully slide a blade over the ridged rod to cut the microscopic silk threads from the top layer, while leaving the bottom layer in a perfectly curved loop that glistens in the light.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a beautiful job that enters your heart. You have these tiny threads and you can do incredible things with them,” said Longo, who has been weaving at the company for 19 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Fashion icons","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIn addition to dressing popes and decorating opera houses, the Bevilacqua family’s hand-operated looms have been behind some of the world’s finest haute couture over the last 60 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor decades, designer Roberta di Camerino used Bevilacqua velvets to line her handbags that were carried by celebrities like Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor and Farrah Fawcett. Fashion icon Iris Apfel used to stop by the workshop regularly to order tiger- and leopard-cut velvets for her New York apartment. And in the last two decades, the company has collaborated with Valentino, Rubeus Milano and Dolce & Gabbana – which once clad supermodel Gisele Bündchen in a bra embroidered with Byzantine lions as she glided down the catwalk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Shifting tide","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the 3,500 archival designs stacked on the workshop’s warped floorboards are all still available, but many are no longer produced in-house. Like Venice itself, the Bevilacqua company has had to adapt in order to stay afloat in a changing world, and the family now owns a second factory on the mainland where some of its archaic patterns are woven by modern machines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBevilacqua explained that many of his long-time clients can no longer afford the high costs of hand production, and that the 6m a machine makes in one day would take a weaver a full month and cost four times as much. Yet, the secrets of the soprarizzo are something that no machine can learn, and after five centuries of craftsmanship, Bevilacqua sees it as his family’s duty to ensure that this ancient Venetian thread doesn’t unravel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Each of these designs tells a story from our past,” he said, passing his palm over a soprarizzo pattern depicting the Chalice of Life. “They’re a reminder that many years ago, Venice gave something beautiful to the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcustom-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECustom Made\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that introduces you to custodians of cultural traditions all around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice-28"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-14T16:23:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The last velvet merchant of Venice","headlineShort":"The last velvet merchant of Venice","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Velvet was once among the most coveted fabrics in the world, but now only one family in Italy produces it the traditional way – and can trace its textile tradition back to 1499.","summaryShort":"Since 1499, one family has woven threads for kings, popes and fashion icons","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:24:48.314734Z","entity":"article","guid":"d51a16a4-54ff-454b-a40d-2fd102460745","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:39:44.317901Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484331},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","_id":"621e445345ceed6b7d496969","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Affecting travellers every year, this bizarre phenomenon sees visitors to Florence suffer psychological breakdowns after being overwhelmed by the city's abundance of great art.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGazing up at Leonardo da Vinci's Adoration of the Magi in the rarefied corridors of Florence's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uffizi.it\u002Fen\u002Fthe-uffizi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUffizi Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I began to feel unusual. My stomach tightened and my heart raced; my knees buckled and my palms felt clammy. Were the chicken liver \u003Cem\u003Ecrostini\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from lunch coming back to bite me? Probably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor some visitors to Florence, though, these are the symptoms of an acute illness that has nothing to do with food poisoning and everything, it would appear, to do with the city's abundance of great art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStendhal syndrome is said to be a psychosomatic condition brought on by exposure to Florence's embarrassment of artistic riches. It takes its name from the French writer Marie-Henri Beyle, better known by the pen-name Stendhal, who, in 1817, wrote of his trip to the Tuscan capital: \"I was in a sort of ecstasy from the idea of being in Florence… I was seized with a fierce palpitation of the heart… the well-spring of life was dried up within me, and I walked in constant fear of falling to the ground.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe syndrome was clinically described as a psychiatric disorder in 1989 by Graziella Magherini, a psychiatrist at Florence's Santa Maria Nuova Hospital. Magherini observed 106 patients, all of them tourists, who experienced dizziness, palpitations, hallucinations and depersonalisation upon viewing works of art such as the sculptures of Michelangelo and the paintings of Botticelli. They were suffering \"panic attacks, caused by the psychological impact of a great masterpiece, and that of travelling,\" Magherini \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=cgIv-OpqDbs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esaid in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECases of the syndrome continue to be reported today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Florence View From Piazzale Michelangelo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It occurs usually 10, 20 times a year in certain people who are very sensitive [and] perhaps have been waiting all their lives to come to Tuscany,\" said Simonetta Brandolini d'Adda, president of the art charity Friends of Florence. \"These iconic artworks – the Botticellis, the David – they're really overwhelming. Some people lose their bearings; it can be mind-boggling. I've often seen people start crying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Some people lose their bearings; it can be mind-boggling. I've often seen people start crying","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBotticelli's The Birth of Venus seems to be a particular trigger. \"We've had at least one epileptic attack before the Venus,\" said Eike Schmidt, the director of the Uffizi. \"One gentleman also suffered a heart attack.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat gentleman was Carlo Olmastroni, a 68-year-old man from the Tuscan town of Bagno a Ripoli, who collapsed in the Uffizi in December 2018. \"I approached Botticelli's The Birth of Venus, and while I was admiring that wonder, my memories vanish,\" Olmastroni told me. His story was quickly taken up by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fbotticelli-brings-on-heart-attack-8v8h3m6hl\"\u003Emedia in Italy and abroad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and positioned as the latest high-profile example of Stendhal syndrome. However, it may more properly serve as an illustration of something else: the media's hastiness to propagate the romantic idea of Stendhal syndrome, despite it being a difficult condition to pin down. Certainly, in Olmastroni's case, something else was at play.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \"The diagnosis was not Stendhal syndrome, as some thought more romantically, but the occlusion of two coronary arteries. Perhaps, on admiring The Birth of Venus, they decided that there was nothing more beautiful to look at and contracted permanently!\" he told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, Olmastroni made a full recovery – partly thanks to a defibrillator which had been installed the day before his visit, and partly due to the nearby presence of four doctors, including two Sicilian cardiologists who happened to be visiting the Uffizi that day. He calls them his \"guardian angels\". Had he suffered his heart attack at home, it might have been a different story; perhaps, far from causing him to fall ill, Florence's treasure trove of art saved his life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Masterpieces on display at the Gallerie degli Uffizi museum","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe issue that many professionals have with describing Stendhal syndrome as its own psychiatric disorder is that its symptoms are so hard to parse from those of more general afflictions that commonly affect tourists. \"Sometimes at the Uffizi, certain visitors have heart attacks, or feel sick,\" said Cristina de Loreto, a psychotherapist who lives and works in Florence. \"But it could just be being in an enclosed space with hundreds of other people. It could be agoraphobia, not Botticelli.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing\"\u003EHow Rome's monuments are still standing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Italy most Italians don't see\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 'degenerate' city lost in the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn emotional reaction to art, she said, does not constitute a psychiatric disorder, even if it leads or contributes to distressing or dangerous symptoms. \"At the moment when you're observing a piece of art, there are specific brain areas that are activated – it's like when you see a beautiful man or woman – but it isn't enough to say it's a syndrome. It's not yet validated, and you can't find it in the DSM-5, our manual of mental disorders.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDi Loreto believes that something else may be at play: that tourists' expectations of Florence are so high, fuelled by the ubiquity of its artworks in various media, that it all becomes too much when they finally visit. \"It may be a self-fulfilling prophecy, which makes some tourists feel something in the air in Florence,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this regard, Stendhal syndrome may be related to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Ftriplej\u002Fprograms\u002Fhack\u002Fjerusalem-syndrome\u002F9349644https:\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Ftriplej\u002Fprograms\u002Fhack\u002Fjerusalem-syndrome\u002F9349644\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJerusalem syndrome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which sees visitors to that holy city break down in psychotic religious or messianic delusions; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002F6197921.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParis syndrome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which causes tourists to come down with acute psychiatric symptoms upon finding that the French capital does not match their unrealistically high expectations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStendhal's own words – \"a sort of ecstasy from the \u003Cem\u003Eidea\u003C\u002Fem\u003E of being in Florence\" – seem to lend this theory some credence. Perhaps a self-fulfilling prophecy is also at play in the media coverage of alleged cases of Stendhal syndrome, such as Olmastroni's – journalists, enchanted by the romantic idea of becoming \"art sick\", diagnose people wishfully from afar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of the Cathedral of Florence, Italy","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Here in Florence, as in Venice, you can breathe art,\" Paolo Molino, a psychotherapist, told me over \u003Cem\u003Elampredotto \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(tripe) sandwiches at Florence's Sant'Ambrogio Market. \"Everywhere you turn in the town centre, you stumble on something beautiful. It's like being slapped in the face.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everywhere you turn in the town centre, you stumble on something beautiful. It's like being slapped in the face","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMolino agrees with Di Loreto, though, that it is difficult to describe Stendhal syndrome as a condition in its own right, or to separate its symptoms from those that might befall fatigued, dehydrated or otherwise overwhelmed travellers. His concern lies not so much with the question of Florence killing tourists, but rather with tourists killing Florence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Being in Florence is like being in Disneyland for art,\" he said. \"I don't like that. I like lived places – I like to come and see the lampredotto guy, to be able to walk without having to fight my way through crowds.\" Having lived in Florence since he was a schoolboy, Molino is now one of the majority of Florentines banished to live in a belt around the historical core. \"I never go to the town centre if I can avoid it,\" he said. \"It's too busy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was struck by Molino's assertion that Florence's wealth of art – which we value precisely because of what it tells us about life and the human condition – had relegated the city to no longer qualify as a \"lived place\". The comparison of the cradle of Renaissance art and humanism with Disneyland, the world's foremost symbol of corporate artifice and dumbed-down commercialism, was similarly jarring. However, it's important to remember where much of Florence's art came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMichelangelo and Botticelli did not carve and paint in a dark garret. They were patronised by Florence's wealthiest and most powerful people who used their artworks as a display of financial and political might. In David's original position in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, he gazed defiantly towards Rome, the seat of the encroaching Goliaths that were the Medici, an enormously powerful banking family. During the periods when they held power in Florence, it was the Medici themselves commissioning pieces like The Birth of Venus. Botticelli even included the Medici in the roles of the Three Wise Men in his paintings; and the very building that houses the Uffizi Gallery was built by the same family. These people used art to promulgate the mythology around them, consolidating their power and creating, as the philosopher Jean Baudrillard said of the American Disneyland, a kind of hyperreality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"David of Michelangelo sculpture in Florence","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Medici are long gone, but the masterpieces they helped bestow on Florence still lend the city something of the unreal and the uncanny. However, Schmidt believes that this is not unique to Florence. \"Whenever things like this happen in Florence, it makes the papers,\" he said, \"but although it's seen as a Florentine phenomenon, the same could be true of places like Venice and Verona.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless, as Schmidt pointed out, art for the most part is not a health hazard, but a tonic, for body and soul. \"Generally,\" he said, \"art is good for you – good for your heart and mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-11T20:59:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Stendhal syndrome: The travel syndrome that causes panic","headlineShort":"The travel syndrome that causes panic","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7696","longitude":"11.2558","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Affecting travellers every year, this bizarre phenomenon sees visitors to Florence suffer psychological breakdowns after being overwhelmed by the city's abundance of great art.","summaryShort":"\"It occurs usually 10, 20 times a year\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-10T21:01:24.264049Z","entity":"article","guid":"aea0ff83-b6d2-4dae-8911-a93d940bdb51","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:58.545032Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484331},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","_id":"623395d145ceed3ef036f34b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmarianna-cerini"],"bodyIntro":"While Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated for centuries, its new wave of glassmakers and designers is young, inventive and female.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sound of techno-punk confirmed I was in the right place. In their instructions on how to reach \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flinktr.ee\u002Felcocalglasstudio?fbclid=IwAR0eZapXYeBbhBxPDqmfUMwc2O7OrtQL9qWLNR7yQ8lV_-_6QKwA-gGj2as\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEl Cocal Glass Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, co-owners Chiara Lee Taiarol and Mariana Oliboni had said to \"follow the music\" as I made my way down a dusty alley and into an industrial complex off the touristy streets of Murano, the tiny island in the Venetian lagoon known globally for its glassmaking craft. \"You'll hear us,\" they had told me over the phone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStepping inside their workshop, which was lit up by disco lights, the music was even louder. Three women – Taiarol, Oliboni and Natalie Nikolova, a recent addition to the team – were moving swiftly around the space as if in sync with the beat, taking turn to place a long\u003Cem\u003E ferro sbuso\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a metal blowpipe used to gather molten glass and begin the shaping process) into a red-hot, 1,200C refractory stone oven. Their working rhythm was deliberate, their movements almost choreographic. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The music powers us up,\" Oliboni said, as she saw me and went to turn the volume down. \"We do things a little differently from other studios, but we like it this way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe techno-punk is only a part of it. El Cocal is Murano's first female-owned glass furnace. \"Different\" is the watchword for its entire essence – though you could say revolutionary, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor much of its 700 years' history – the Republic of Venice moved all glass furnaces and their artisans here in the late 1200s to contain the risk of fires in the city and, some say, protect the techniques behind the art – Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated, often by families that have been in the business for generations. Sons, not daughters, would inherit the furnace and its trade secrets, beginning training as young as nine to master the craft of Venetian-style glass (the official descriptor for glass manufactured on the island).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"While you would find them doing lampwork (a type of glasswork in which a torch or lamp is used to melt the glass) decorating glass objects or serving as \u003Cem\u003Eimpiraresse\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bead-stringers) for jewellery-making, women were nowhere to be seen in the workshops themselves,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.istitutoveneto.it\u002Fflex\u002Fcm\u002Fpages\u002FServeBLOB.php\u002FL\u002FIT\u002FIDPagina\u002F1672\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERosa Barovier Mentasti\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a historian specialising in the history of Venetian glass. \"Molten glass can be extremely heavy to handle, so glassblowing was considered to be too much of a physical discipline for them to do.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvjtnc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe blistering heat of the furnace – to be moulded in the kiln, glass requires temperatures of up to 1600C – was another reason why women weren't deemed fit to work the field. To have them run their own studio would not only have been mostly unheard of, but unthinkable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far as records go, the only woman who was ever given permission to lead her own furnace was Marietta Barovier, in 15th Century Venice,\" said Mentasti. \"She came from a family of glassmakers and would end up creating her very own glass design – the \u003Cem\u003Eperla a rosetta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – which is still produced today. But for the most part, the whole industry has always been a very masculine space.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I wanted to demonstrate that when it comes to glass, physical strength might be less important than determination and the power of imagination","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Cocal, which Taiarol founded in January 2021 after a decade working with glass in the United States, is now working to correct this exclusionary history. \"When I moved to Murano from abroad looking to work in glassmaking, I felt alone professionally,\" she said. \"I had all this experience, but it didn't seem to matter. I got tired of being merely tolerated, if not openly rejected, by the local sector.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe decided to make El Cocal a formative space for women to learn about and work with glass. \"I wanted to demonstrate that when it comes to glass, physical strength might be less important than determination and the power of imagination,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOliboni concurred. \"I had never been in a furnace until Chiara asked me to join her,\" she said. \"One year on, I can make objects out of this impossibly elusive material. I am proof there's space for everyone in this craft.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvjf7s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falexissilk.com\u002Fartist\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlexis Silk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an American artist and trained glassmaker who's been working in Murano since 2012, also seeks to challenge the industry's modus operandi. \"Murano is a place steeped in tradition,\" she said. \"That's exactly what makes it so unique, and its glasswork so special. But it's also its biggest drawback. It's hard to look at the future and welcome changes when you're so anchored in the past. Through my presence here, I hope to foster the advancement of this art and show that a woman is as capable of working glass as any man.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESilk makes monumental figurative pieces of female bodies that explore themes such as objectification and societal perceptions, sculpting them entirely freehand. They can weigh up to 32kg and stand up to 2m tall. In the glassmaking world, there are very few people who work on such a large scale – and that goes for all genders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo help her handle the glass, Silk works with eight to nine glassmakers – all men – at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arsmurano.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArs Murano glass factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the island's most internationally renowned workshops. But, between episodes of sexism and pushback, it took her a while to find a team she could trust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There generally is a reluctance towards letting women in,\" she said. \"It wasn't until Ars Murano that I felt at home as a glassmaker. Here, they respect me. There's a complete lack of ego.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvjh54"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMentasti agrees. \"In the world of Murano, design has been the greatest conquest for women,\" said the historian. \"It's the space where they have been able to form meaningful relationships with the glass workers and, in a way, redefine the 'rules' of who is and isn't allowed in the workshop.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenice-based sisters Elena and Margherita Micheluzzi, who launched their own glassware brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.micheluzziglass.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMicheluzzi Glass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019, are a case in point. The duo work collaboratively with master glassblowers to create their collections of vases and table glasses, which are made by cold-carving into blown glass. \"We've learned from watching our father [Massimo Micheluzzi, one of the sector's most renowned glass designers],\" shared Elena. \"We discuss every piece we make with the maestri, and consider their suggestions. In turn, they strive to understand what we're after. We've encouraged a dialogue, and that's helped both us and them. It's how you push Murano forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Silk and the crew of El Cocal remain a minority when it comes to physically working in the furnace, other women who have yearned to work with glass have found an alternative way of entering this all-male environment: design and art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past three decades, a growing number of female creatives has in fact been working closely with Murano's \u003Cem\u003Emaestri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the glass masters who head the furnace) and glassworkers to bring their glass dreams to life, by designing the pieces and having them do the glass work. Names like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.michelacattai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichela Cattai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.federicamarangoni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFederica Marangoni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flauradesantillana.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaura de Santillana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have become synonymous with the island and some of its more forward design aesthetic, pushing the boundaries of what's possible to do with glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, a new wave of women designers – both foreigners and Italian – has also been revisiting the craft in inventive, contemporary ways, relying on techniques that have been used for hundreds of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor art consultant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwomenforwomen.org.uk\u002Fnadja-romain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENadja Romain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, they are keeping Murano's revered craft alive. \"I think female artists understand the material in their own unique ways,\" she said. \"They approach the medium with astounding creativity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs an example, she mentioned the exhibition \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneberengo.org\u002Fproject\u002Funbreakable-women-in-glass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnbreakable: Women in Glass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she co-curated in 2020. The show featured more than 60 contemporary female artists from around the world who have worked in the furnaces of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berengo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerengo studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a glass workshop in Murano, since it was founded in 1989. \"The wealth of works was phenomenal, exploring the myriad possibilities of glass,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvjt1n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laurasattin.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaura Sattin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who works with glassblowers both in Murano and Basel, Switzerland, shared similar thoughts. \"Women are very good at working as a team. They listen, often better than men do. In Murano, that's an asset. It's something the maestri appreciate and respond well to. When there's a harmonious balance, great work happens.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, women – and new faces in general – might come to play a crucial role for the future of glassmaking on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of Murano's glassmakers are well into their 70s. In many glassmaking families, sons are no longer taking over from their fathers, but pursuing different careers, often away from the island. Soon, new talents will be needed to ensure the craft continues to be passed on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Since opening, we have had quite a few inquiries from girls and women to come train at El Cocal, and many of them are from Murano,\" Taiarol said. \"It's time to put scepticism behind and give us the opportunity to claim our space.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-rule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWhy We Rule\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that follows powerful women who have pioneered the path to female sovereignty and are truly rulers of their worlds.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwhy-we-rule","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-18T10:09:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Venice's 'unbreakable' women of glass","headlineShort":"The inventive women changing Venice","image":["p0bvc0mg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4042007","longitude":"12.107146","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bvc32g"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181113-the-last-velvet-merchant-of-venice","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated for centuries, its new wave of glassmakers and designers is young, inventive and female.","summaryShort":"\"I got tired of being merely tolerated, if not openly rejected\"","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T20:10:40.348996Z","entity":"article","guid":"74e6d207-0e1c-44f1-8358-f41d32708407","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T20:15:08.114446Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fvenice","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy_venice_europe_italy_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484330},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","_id":"621e445245ceed5b5a319395","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fegle-gerulaityte"],"bodyIntro":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBracing against the cold air at an altitude of 2,650m, I made my way down a foggy, narrow mountain road in the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes. Its switchbacks were slick with moisture from the mist, vegetation slowly creeping up the cracks in the pavement. A large, looming silhouette emerged from the fog – a lone cow wandering along the road in search of better pasture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther than roaming livestock and the occasional local, there was almost no traffic. It was hard to believe I'd only just left Cuenca, one of Ecuador's most vibrant cities, a mere 30km behind. Having rented a motorcycle, I wanted to explore the more far-off routes of the Andes heading east, where there are little tourist crowds – and plenty of local culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw5z7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoon, I found myself on the Via San Bartolome, a quiet, remote road with solitude and views unspoiled by human activity. With its villages few and far between, Via San Bartolome slowly unfurls across the eastern slopes of the Andes for 80km, merging with a network of other local roads leading down into the Amazon plains. Gone are Cuenca's busy streets and trendy cafes, replaced by sparse, tiny indigenous settlements, animal pastures and a mountain landscape weighed down by heavy clouds and undisturbed silence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMusical traditions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I entered the San Bartolome parish, home to a little more than 4,000 inhabitants, I started noticing something odd on the sides of the road. Here and there, a small workshop appeared, bearing a sign of a guitar. Sometimes, it was someone's house with a guitar frame hung outside; sometimes, a bigger workshop with instruments lined up on the porch or displayed on tables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust a few more miles up the road, a makeshift wooden sign declared this was the \"Ruta de las Guitarras\" – the Guitar Route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 200 years, the tradition of guitar-making has been strong in this region. Locals craft the instruments from the area's cedar, spruce and cherry trees, as well as from more exotic materials like armadillo shells. Luthiers along the Guitar Road are known for crafting guitars so exquisite that their clients include musicians across South America, the Caribbean and North America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIntrigued, I stopped by one of the guitar workshops: a typical tin-roofed Andean house with wooden walls, but with a guitar displayed above the entrance. It belonged to Jose Homero Uyaguari, one of San Bartolome's most renowned guitar makers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw5rg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EParking my rental motorcycle on the side of the road, I tentatively asked if I could visit the workshop. While curious, I didn't want to intrude: the Guitar Route is far from a touristy place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Uyaguari nodded and ushered me inside. \"Come, come,\" he said, opening the doors to the workshop. \"Would you like to see the guitars?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, the walls were lined with finished guitars, charangos (small, five-stringed instruments loved by indigenous Andean musicians), ukuleles and cuatros (four-stringed guitars popular in Venezuela). The tables were covered in instruments in various states of finish, sawdust, and cow bone fragments and colourful ornaments used as adornments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every guitar and charango are unique,\" Uyaguari explained, holding up a small charango. \"We use local cherry wood, walnut and cedar trees most of the time, but some of the guitars are made from imported pine. Most of our walnut comes from right here, from our neighbours, and sometimes, we get things like armadillo shells from the rainforest – it's good for making smaller instruments, and people love the unusual finish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGenerations of guitar makers\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs he showed me around the workshop, Uyaguari told me he learned the art of guitar making from his father – who, in turn, learned from his. \"As a child, I remember some of the guitar masters were 70, 80 years old, and they'd tell us they learned from their fathers, too. It's a tradition passed down from father to son,\" he said. Although there are some women guitar makers in San Bartolome, for the most part, it is the dominion of men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I began learning to make guitars when I was 13 years old. Now, it's my trade, and I'm hoping to pass it down to my sons. Three of them already make guitars and work together with me,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of Uyaguari's instruments are made by hand. First, the wood is sent to be sawed. Next, the luthier works with chisels, saws and sandpaper to craft the frame and the neck of the guitar, decorating the sound hole with tiny wood fragments coloured by hand. Some of the ornaments are made of bovine bones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw620"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom sanding and prepping the wood to a complete finish, it takes Uyaguari about two weeks to make one guitar. His cheaper instruments cost around $70 to $200 (£50 to £150), whereas a more exquisite guitar made from expensive wood may cost $2,000 (£1,500) and upwards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch is the reputation of San Bartolome's guitar makers that these instruments are being sought after by musicians in Europe, Colombia, Cuba and Puerto Rico. Uyaguari fondly remembers a rosewood and pine guitar he made for Enrique Bunbury, the lead singer of Spanish rock band Héroes del Silencio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA fragile trade\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its past successes, after peaking around 2005-2010, the guitar-making trade in San Bartolome has been slowly dwindling. Due to an influx of imported guitars from China, locals are opting for cheaper instruments. Only 10 local families now make guitars full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Artisanal guitar making is now valued less and less. Younger people just want cheap guitars, and they ask us to make guitars for $15 or $20 (£10 or £15) – the price of the Chinese ones. We can't compete with that, as this wouldn't even cover the costs of the wood, let alone the labour,\" said Uyaguari.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw642"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust 10 years ago, he and his sons would make 30 or 40 guitars a month; they'd all quickly sell out, with no instruments left at the shop, he said. Now, they sell 10 to 15 guitars a month. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, many guitar makers in San Bartolome have to supplement their income with farming, making furniture or moving to the cities in search of jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some of the workshops have been closed down or abandoned. I don't plan to stop, however – I'll take my trade to my grave,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a potential new revenue stream for artisans like him, too. \"Right now, our guitars are mostly bought either by travellers or professional musicians who value what we do,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThanking the luthier for his time, I jumped back on the bike and followed the Guitar Route eastward. Soon, the narrow mountain road dived down, turning and twisting in generous bends, sparse Andean grasses now replaced by the lush emerald green of the Amazon rainforest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw6bd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe temperature and humidity rose as the ribbon of road snaked down the slopes of the Andes, revealing the slow-moving waters of the Upano River and the endless green expanse below. Small farms and ramshackle houses gave way to fresh fruit stands and bare-bellied kids running around, the heavy clouds now broken apart by sunshine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the land changed, the cold Andean villages and the guitar makers of San Bartolome began to feel like a distant, dreamlike memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-24T10:53:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Guitar Route of the Andes","headlineShort":"The Andes bucket list road trip","image":["p0br4jgw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.0099483","longitude":"-78.8185256","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0br4jgw"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","summaryShort":"The Guitar Route is far from a touristy place","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T22:33:19.779822Z","entity":"article","guid":"f461faa1-163a-4cb1-8a4a-56fa4fa9d5c3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T00:56:52.578136Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484354,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fecuador","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_ecuador_south-america"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","_id":"621e445845ceed6b4e0f7e0b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s early morning in Hong Kong. As the roar of traffic and rush of the commute begin, the city moves to its usual pulsing rhythm. But in the heart of one of the most hectic urban jungles on Earth is an unlikely garden of calm and healing – a little oasis where the pace is decidedly slower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated in Hong Kong Park, a lush green space in the centre of the city, is a dedicated tai chi garden. Designed with a courtyard for practicing, and decorated with bonsai trees, it has a serene quality that comes as a pleasant surprise in an area otherwise dominated by skyscrapers and the rush of city life. The garden is used frequently, if not daily, as locals gather in parks like this across the city, mostly in the morning, to practice the centuries-old martial art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s here under the early morning light that a group of tai chi students, led by their teacher, Master Chow, are using the garden as their classroom. They run through what’s known in tai chi as a “form” – a sequence of fluid moves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo an observer, the movements appear effortless. The students glide and flow seamlessly from one move to the next, exuding a calmness that’s far removed from the bustling streets nearby. Passers-by stop and watch, momentarily soothed by the movements that, although gentle, cut a powerful presence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People think that tai chi is just soft. But it’s all things – gentle, explosive, delicate, calm and full of wisdom,” said Chow. “There are 1,000 words to define it, but there are no words to fully describe it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETai chi is a type of ancient Chinese martial art that is widely believed to have originated more than 400 years ago during the Ming dynasty. Chen Wangting (1600-1680), a local military commander from the Chenjiagou village in Henan Province, has historically been recognised as the first person to create and practice tai chi. After retiring from the army, Wangting created tai chi as a fighting art to protect his family against thieves and bandits. He integrated the skills of different martial art styles with elements of the Taoist yin-yang philosophy – the idea that everything consists of two opposing forces that harmonise with each other to create a whole – as well as theories drawn from Traditional Chinese Medicine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, tai chi is mainly practiced as a low-to moderate-intensity exercise combined with meditation, body awareness, imagery and controlled breathing. Its main objective is to achieve longevity through mind and body conditioning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tai chi maintains cardiorespiratory function, muscular fitness and joint flexibility","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient practice is immensely popular throughout China, but it is particularly beloved in Hong Kong for its ability to relieve stress and improve health. With famously small living spaces in Hong Kong, going to the city’s parks or tai chi gardens is a good way to be out in the open while getting some exercise. Hong Kong also has a rapidly ageing population – about one third of its population will be aged 65 or above by 2038 – and the city’s elderly citizens are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.hk\u002Fen\u002Fresidents\u002Fculture\u002Frecreation\u002Factivities\u002Felderlyact.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eencouraged by the government\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to attend classes in the morning, which are often followed by tea and dim sum with their teacher and classmates. Not only do tai chi classes promote healthy movement, but they provide the elderly with a social community and combat isolation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years. Hong Kong has the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam.edu\u002Fpeople-in-hong-kong-have-the-longest-life-expectancy-in-the-world-some-possible-explanations\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehighest life expectancy in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Women in the city live, on average, to 87.6 years of age and men to 81.9, beating such places as Japan and Italy, which are renowned for their longevity. “Prior \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-tai-chi-life\u002Ftai-chi-tied-to-longer-life-idUSBRE96H0PW20130718\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has indicated that this longevity increase is associated with the more active lifestyle of the elderly today,” said Aileen Chan, professor at The Chinese University of Hong Kong, whose research expertise is tai chi. “Tai chi maintains cardiorespiratory function, muscular fitness and joint flexibility. To promote a longer life, it is recommended to practice tai chi regularly for at least 30 minutes a day and at least five times a week, preferably every day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChow is the founder of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taichielite.com\u002Feng\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChen Style Tai Chi Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Hong Kong where he has taught more than 3,000 local and international students over a period of 19 years. Born into a martial arts family, Chow was inspired by his father, a kung fu master, who he describes as a humble man with great power and strength but who never showed off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When I was 16 years old, I knew the power of tai chi from books and I was amazed by its philosophy,” said Chow. “So, I decided to take classes, and this is how I started my tai chi journey.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChow was fortunate to learn the Chen-style of tai chi – the original form of tai chi – at its birthplace in Henan province, in mainland China."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"(There are four other traditional styles: Yang, Wu, Wu Hao and Sun; each have different movements and can look very different from one another.) After a few years of observation and training, the Chen family accepted him to be an inheritor, meaning that he could officially teach as a master of Chen-style in Hong Kong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Mentally, it has taught me how to think and how to control my emotions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow enjoys tai chi for both its physical and mental benefits. “Mentally, tai chi is an ancient Chinese method which is a natural and unique way to help relieve stress and soothe our soul,” he said. “Physically, it helps build joint movement in the knees and back, improves balance and fall prevention, adds muscle strength and flexibility and training coordination.” That’s because the movements are usually circular and never forced, the muscles are relaxed rather than tensed, the joints are not fully extended or bent, and connective tissues are not stretched. Chow says he has experienced the health benefits himself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I was a child, I always used to have a fever and coughing,” he said. “But as I grew up and started to practice tai chi, year by year, my health changed, and it has made me very strong now. Mentally, also, it has taught me how to think and how to control my emotions.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow firmly believes that tai chi can be self-healing. “It can help people a lot, especially in a busy city like Hong Kong,” he said. “It can bring peace of mind and soothe the soul. This is very important.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd as Chow wraps up leading his students through a series of movements in the Tai Chi Garden – among them signature movements like “Buddha pestle” (a punching movement) and “white goose spreading wings” (an advance-and-retreat movement, just like a goose when it opens its wings and jumps very fast suddenly) – it’s certainly soothing to observe. But there’s more to it than one might first assume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe learning process for Chen-style tai chi is split into 15 levels. Level one involves learning 74 movements as a sequence, which is called a “form”. “When you finish level one, we use the same form (74 movements) in the other 14 levels, but you go deeper and you learn the internal power in the other levels,” said Chow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's 'anti-ageing red diamond'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200317-uncovering-amazake-japans-ancient-fermented-superdrink\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Japan's miracle drink?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160829-hong-kongs-secret-night-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's secret night meal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing deeper involves more than just correctly learning the movements, but ensuring that both the external movements and the internal part, the Qi (energy), are moving together as yin and yang. By stimulating the internal energy (Qi) flow it helps to recharge the body and helps to detoxify.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Tai chi exercise involves the recognition, development, and use of Qi, which refers to the energy in the body,” explained Professor Chan. “Based on theoretical principles that are inherent to traditional Chinese medicine, Qi is the fundamental energy that sustains life and flows in the body along channels called meridians and collaterals, which enhance the integration of all organ systems and tissues, and promote good health and longevity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow explains how he uses Qi in his own practice. “At the end of each movement in tai chi, we hold the posture until the Qi energy goes down and back to the earth. We call this state ‘Yin’,” said Chow. “Then you can start the next movement and take the Qi from the earth again with breathing to guide the energy to rotate and circulate inside your body. We call this state ‘Yang’. So, the entire sequence of 74 movements contains rhythm and changing of the speed. Alternately yin and yang. This is the meaning of tai chi.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe meaning of tai chi is something that fellow Hong Kong-based tai chi teacher, Linda Fung, wishes more people better understood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We often misunderstand tai chi,” said Fung. “When we say tai chi, people tend to think it’s just moving your arms and legs and doing some movement exercise, but tai chi moves are part of a subset of tai chi philosophy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFung, who practices and teaches the Li-style of tai chi, says that tai chi is more than just the physical movements, it’s a way of life. It encompasses arts, music, lifestyle, she said, and you have to understand the yin and yang that is the core of tai chi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In tai chi it’s the interconnection between the yin, which is the body, and yang, which is our mind,” said Fung. “So it’s always the mind and body moving and working together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt an 11th-floor yoga studio – a sanctuary of calm overlooking Hong Kong’s dizzying central business district – Fung guides her students through a beginners’ class. Trained as a ballet dancer at the Royal Ballet School in London and later at the Julliard School in New York, she exudes a natural grace that embodies all her movements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to teaching classes, Fung practices tai chi herself every morning, often outdoors, and says it helps her to achieve a balance in her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In tai chi you slow down your movement, but yet you’re still breathing in certain patterns and so it is movement meditation,” said Fung. “With that level of focus, time just disappears, it’s like there is no time. It’s a great feeling.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ability to be able to slow down and to have clarity and awareness even when things are in crisis, is, for Fung, one of the best health benefits of tai chi. “With tai chi practice, even when situations are out of hand, you can still retain a calmness like an eye of the storm. That is the core of tai chi: it’s about harmony.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Fung believes that tai chi is a treasure trove of good stuff that has never been more needed in the world. “We have to share it with everyone, particularly now, in the 21st Century, where there are so many ways that we are distracted with problems and even illnesses. Tai chi is really very important for people, to give us a chance for happiness, wisdom and health.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBBC Travel’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-29T21:30:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Asia’s centuries-old healing technique","headlineShort":"A centuries-old healing technique","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years.","summaryShort":"The ancient exercise has been tied to longer life","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:48:20.28342Z","entity":"article","guid":"21c25136-30b0-4678-b134-286696132ef1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:08:16.975279Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484332},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","_id":"621e445545ceed7040026eb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Quick chopping motions are expected in many types of massage. But in daoliao, or knife massage, the chopping is done with real blades.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELying face down on the massage table, I waited fearfully for the chopping to start. My knife massage therapist, Elsa, was cheerfully wielding two meat cleavers. That’s because, while chopping motions are expected in lots of body massage, in this one, knives do the chopping.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EElsa began by using her hands to press my body and loosen the extra tension I was surely now carrying. Then the cold, steel knives started their gentle pummelling, over my back, arms and my head. I wouldn’t have known they were knives at work if it wasn’t for the occasional clinking sound, like cutlery against a plate, as they touched. After Elsa told me to relax for the third time, I gave in and closed my eyes as the knives worked on getting my \u003Cem\u003Eqi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or life force, flowing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the chopping ended, I must have been asleep. Surprisingly, many people do doze off when pounded by these – admittedly blunt – knives for 70 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile it looks dangerous, \u003Cem\u003Edaoliao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which translates as“knife massage” or “knife therapy”, is believed to have physical and emotional healing powers and is a form of Chinese medicine that is thought to be more than 2,000 years old. Practitioners say it was first carried out by monks in ancient China. It spread to Japan in the Tang Dynasty more than 1,000 years ago and to Taiwan following the Chinese Civil War in the 1940s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile knife massage is hard to find today in China and Japan, it has undergone a resurgence in Taiwan in recent years as people have sought it out to deal with the stresses of modern life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fancientartofkm\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ancient Art of Knife Massage Dao Liao I-Jing Education Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Taipei has trained practitioners for almost four decades. They have 36 branches in Taiwan, 15 of which have opened in the past five years. They have also taught people from around the world, from Japan to Hong Kong, France to Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, people seek out the therapists’ knives to help relieve physical ailments, improve sleep quality and deal with the pain of being dumped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe knives target “qi doors”, or pressure points, similar to other types of Chinese medicine like acupuncture. But practitioners also believe the steel knives have an invisible power.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore entering the knife massage world 15 years ago, centre director Hsiao Mei-fang gave and taught beauty treatments and meridian massage, another type of traditional Chinese medicine focused on getting the body’s energy flowing. But she said she felt tired every evening because “bad energy” from clients was transferring to her through her touch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA centuries-old healing technique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200317-uncovering-amazake-japans-ancient-fermented-superdrink\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Japan's miracle drink?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190814-the-birthplace-of-modern-nature-healing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Slovenian pilgrimage for wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I got more income, but I couldn’t sleep,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne day, one of her students told her about knife massage. In this, the steel knives are meant to absorb bad karma from the client. Today, Hsiao says she sees herself as a “ghost-hunter”, tracking down the actions and results from her clients’ previous lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“For me, I really feel that knife massage sometimes is like hunting ghosts, your past, your previous life,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe therapists have certain rules to follow. For instance, if they are in a bad mood, they shouldn’t give a knife massage in case they “transfer bad energy to the client,” according to Hsiao. In any case, brandishing two knives while in a bad mood doesn’t seem like a good idea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Knife massage sometimes is like hunting ghosts, your past, your previous life","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo keep their own energies pure, all practitioners stick to a vegan diet. Hsiao and her army of therapists also wake up at or before 05:00 every morning and do 100 squats and headstands, and bash knives for 30 minutes against a pillow to get their qi going.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a lot of work for the therapists – but also for the clients. Before my massage, Elsa got me doing 10 minutes of squats and stretching with her, both of us holding two wooden “cosmos sticks” in our hands, which are meant to help you balance your qi. Hsiao says parents bring children to play with the sticks and learn about qi in hopes of reducing school-related stress, while businesspeople consult her over whom they should hire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The cosmos sticks help you to balance your qi, take away some bad qi or energy, and the knife massage is to take away your karma,” said Hsiao. “In our culture, we believe qi is everything. If your energy is balanced, it will help you see things clearly.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps this physical activity was part of the reason I fell asleep on the massage table. In fact, the whole knife massage experience was more than I’d expected. When making an appointment, I was asked to send a recent photo of myself so they could find a suitable therapist according to the energy emanating off it. (Thanks to the apparent acceptance of modern technology, a digital photo works fine.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon after arriving, Elsa showed me five meteorites sitting at the side of the room; practitioners believe the meteorites have healing powers for the body, mind and spirit, and place the knives next to them to recharge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen of course there were the knives, cold, rectangular, metal cleavers, which looked like they had been taken from a chef’s kitchen or a crime thriller. Practitioners must study hard and follow the teachings, otherwise the knives could be dangerous, said Hsiao. However, in the centre’s 40 years’ history, no client has ever been injured by knives, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“At the beginning I was scared when I saw the knives, I thought it was dangerous,” client Chiu Mei-lan, 73, had earlier told me. “I was quite afraid, I said to the therapist, ‘don’t hit very hard, just lightly.’ It started to feel quite nice, so I said, ‘you can do it harder, that’s too light.’”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChiu first tried the massage because she was having trouble sleeping. “After knife massage, I sleep very well,” she confided.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the chopping board, Elsa draped towels over the clothes on my body, as well as my head. The knives began working on what I was told were my 10 qi doors. For 70 minutes, two blades quickly and gently pummelled, one after the other, moving from the top of my head to the soles of my feet and leaving me with the impression that I had been thoroughly targeted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We believe qi is everything. If your energy is balanced, it will help you see things clearly.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome clients come to consult with Hsiao, who uses a small, circular board with a compass at the centre to help her clients find their direction, or purpose, in life. This is a divination board, based on an ancient Chinese text called the I-Ching, or Book of Changes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s like I put your information in my Google,” she told me. “If I enter your information [into the board], I will know present you, past you and future you, so I could give you advice very easily.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter tapping the board with a stick and seemingly pondering deeply for a few minutes, she pronounced that I was very into “justice, like Oprah”. She also gave me some general health warnings, such as I should eat more calcium and less ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMichael Stanley-Baker, a historian of Chinese medicine and religion at the Nanyang Technological University in Singapore, said that knife massage looks as spectacular as “fakirs who lie on nail beds and Daoists climbing knife ladders”, with “a technique that is masterable, not miraculous, but nevertheless spectacular.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In practice, there is a blurred connection to Traditional Chinese Medicine [TCM],” he said, “which really places this in the realm of ‘folk medicine’ – a hodgepodge of theories, charts and aphorisms that draw on traditional knowledge, but not from a thorough grounding in medical theory that one would expect from a TCM professional.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHsiao said she didn’t need to convince anyone about the effectiveness of knife therapy, as people will believe anyway if you cure them of their ills. “They will go to so many shops or [try] different therapies … and after [their] experience they will find the best one,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor me, having a knife massage was an experience rather than simply a massage. I went away with meteorites swirling in my mind and pondering how much ice cream I really eat. But I was undeniably relaxed. I went to bed early, slept through to the next morning when my alarm went off, and then immediately fell asleep for another couple of hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel’s\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-02T21:41:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Taiwan’s 2,000-year-old knife massage","headlineShort":"The world’s most dangerous massage?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Quick chopping motions are expected in many types of massage. But in daoliao, or knife massage, the chopping is done with real blades.","summaryShort":"In daoliao, or knife massage, the massage is done with real blades","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:50:05.62574Z","entity":"article","guid":"a5c35076-0f1f-481e-ba41-c0d8d6c5ad82","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:10:06.866947Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484332},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","_id":"62326c8845ceed3eed2a557b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes"],"bodyIntro":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings. But these aren't for the thin-skinned: among other options, they can involve a rub-down with stinging nettles.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the back room of a small shop in Quito, Ecuador, a petite, elderly Ecuadorian woman rubbed a bundle of stinging nettles over my naked body. As she muttered in Spanish, her hands made quick scrubbing motions from my head to my toes. Within seconds, my body buzzed with a prickly, burning sensation. Welts popped up in angry red streaks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Your energy is blocked. We must open your energy lines,\" she said. As she scrubbed my now-irritated skin one more time, I couldn't help but wince at the pain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEmma Lagla is one of Ecuador’s limpiadores (cleaners). For centuries, these traditional healers have used what they consider magical, sacred plants from the Ecuadorian landscape to treat folk illnesses including the feeling of bad luck or a tainted aura.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd come for a spiritual cleansing, a process that involves a vigorous rubdown with traditional plants to remove bad energy. If the burning sensation and the stinging welts that danced over my body were any sign, I needed it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw3r2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn every downtown market in Ecuador's capital city, curanderos (traditional healers) offer their skills in stalls filled with plants like roses, valued for their spiritual heartiness; lemongrass, which can be mixed into horchata to reduce inflammation; and guayusa, an Andes holly-like bush used by native indigenous tribes as a stimulant. In addition to scented oils that salespeople swear will make your lover desire you more, the stalls include other Andes Highlands plants like rue (herb-of-grace), used to help with menstrual cycles; and ishpingo, an Ecuadorian spice that has anti-fungal properties and can be made into a tea to cure stomach ache.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrick-and-mortar stores run by curanderos along the side streets, offering not only herbal products but also treatments, are also popular. (Limpiadores are a particular kind of curanderos who perform the cleansing treatments.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw42n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"These ladies here are waiting for patients to clean their bad spirits, bad energy and stress,\" said Marcos Peralvo, my Quito tour guide, of the other people waiting in the shop when I entered. \"It is a kind of an ancestral magic type of medicine, but it is not natural medicine. You're coming here for treatments that the doctors are not able to cure, like cleaning the auras and cleaning up the body spirits. They are using those herbs, and those herbs are going to absorb the bad energies of people. That is our belief.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile adults seek cleanings, the majority of patients are babies whose anxious mothers are looking to protect their offspring's \"pure auras\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, stinging nettle is not used on babies. Instead, I watched a woman hold her baby as Lagla patted the infant with a soft bundle of herbs that included mint and marco (ambrosia arborecens), an anti-rheumatic herb commonly used to treat bronchial and respiratory issues. After fussing, the baby settled down as Lagla placed a necklace of hard green berries around its neck for protection. She then stroked the baby with a handful of rose petals soaked in rose oil to help soothe its skin and infuse it with good energy. The baby fell into a quiet sleep in its mother's arms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now she will give the mother herbs for a tea. The mother has to drink it because she is still nursing her child,\" Peralvo said. \"She must drink this tea several times a day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw4bq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELimpiadores can provide other services like herbalism and massage, said Peralvo. Others claim to address other problems such as dealing with an unfaithful husband, casting love spells, finding lost items or even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC2642781\u002F\"\u003E\"treating\" textbooks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help students excel in tests. Some claim the title of \u003Cem\u003Ellamadors\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (callers), who can call back a departed soul into an individual's body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring an extensive cleaning, the healer performs a \u003Cem\u003Elimpia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an Andean cleaning procedure born from the belief that Mother Nature is the cure for any ailment. A limpia may involve rubbing an egg and a dead black guinea pig over a patient's body to assess health. Then come the herbs and stinging nettle, known in the Andes for its cleansing powers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot being ill, I didn't require the full black guinea pig or egg treatment – instead, my cleansing was simpler and quicker than a full limpia. It was more like a spiritual massage, a quick scrub to wash away the bad energy. With my body still on fire from the nettles, Lagla gathered her rose petals soaked in rose oil to anoint my skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This will soothe your skin and your spirit,\" she explained, her granddaughter translating. \"You had stress and low energy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeliefs in these traditions run deep in the Andean highlands of Ecuador, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fetd.ohiolink.edu\u002Fapexprod\u002Frws_etd\u002Fsend_file\u002Fsend?accession=ohiou1618062150942875&disposition=inline\"\u003Eare losing ground in the country's metropolitan areas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But not completely – at some hospitals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-18483584\"\u003Edoctors allow limpiadores to \"clean\" patients\u003C\u002Fa\u003E while they administer their own treatments. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.health.harvard.edu\u002Fmental-health\u002Fthe-power-of-the-placebo-effect\"\u003EThere's evidence that your brain can convince your body that a treatment works\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – to the point that, in some cases, a placebo can work as well as modern medicine, at least when it comes to conditions like pain management.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw4lg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocals like Peralvo, who grew up in the rural highlands north of Quito, need no convincing. He believes in the healing properties of the herbs, he said, and he has used them himself: once, after a noisy parade scared his two-year-old daughter, she fell ill and wouldn't stop crying. His then-wife didn't believe in folk remedies, but he convinced her to let him to take the baby to a healer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"After she was cleaned, the healer told me she would sleep for at least three hours. My baby, she never naps in the day, but she did. She fell asleep and when she woke up, she wanted to go to her room and walked there all by herself,\" Peralvo said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You have to believe in those kinds of things for it to work, but some people from the cities, they don't believe in this kind of thing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I left the little shop in Old Town Quito, the welts on my skin still burned but I felt oddly relaxed. The tension of travelling for 10 days seemed to melt away. By morning, I felt lighter in my soul and energetic. Maybe I just wanted to believe in the cleansing power of the limpia – but even if the ritual was a placebo, I'd learned that can go a long way when it comes to healing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-17T10:01:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The healers who treat 'bad luck'","headlineShort":"The healers who treat 'bad luck'","image":["p0btxl3l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-0.1807","longitude":"78.4678","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0btxl3l"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings. But these aren't for the thin-skinned: among other options, they can involve a rub-down with stinging nettles.","summaryShort":"\"I couldn't help but wince with pain\"","tag":["tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-16T23:02:15.400647Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e2fc933-cc1e-4ba4-830d-607bcbaff435","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T02:35:23.685929Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fecuador"],"destinationStat":"south-america_south-america_ecuador","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484331},"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","_id":"621e441445ceed3a4d59c20f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"After defaulting on its substantial national debt, the Seychelles was offered an unusual deal.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated around 1,600 kilometres (994 miles) off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles is an ecological paradise. The archipelago of 115 lush and rocky islands sits amongst vast swathes of ocean, covering some 1.35 million square kilometres (521,000 square miles). They’re home to some of the world’s last pristine coral reefs and are teeming with endangered species, including the southern fin whale and the Indian Ocean’s only dugongs – large marine mammals also known as “sea cows”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the island nation has had its fair share of problems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Seychelles has one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdatabank.worldbank.org\u002Fdata\u002Fdownload\u002FGDP.pdf\"\u003Esmallest GDPs in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and fewer than 100,000 residents, whose livelihoods rely heavily on marine tourism and fishing revenue. After years of borrowing, in 2008 the Seychelles defaulted on payments for its $406m (£311.6m) national debt and had to be bailed out by the International Monetary Fund.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the same time, plastic pollution, climate change and overfishing threaten to deliver a catastrophic blow to the nation’s marine ecosystem, which sustains \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.woi.economist.com\u002Fseychelles-swaps-debt-for-nature\u002F\"\u003Emore than two-thirds of the local economy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. After a mass bleaching event in 1998, in some areas, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.meecc.gov.sc\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2017\u002F04\u002FCoral-Bleaching-In-The-Seychelles-Impacts-and-Recommendations-.pdf\"\u003Ethe Seychelles’ has already lost up to 90% of its coral reefs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E. The \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Enation is also \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.meecc.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fclimate-change\u002F\"\u003Eextremely vulnerable to flooding and coastal erosion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a bid to build climate resilience and boost its blue economy, the Seychelles signed a unique deal in 2015: almost $22m (£16.8m) of its national debt was written off, in exchange for the country doing more to protect its oceans. The “debt for nature” swap involved the US conservation group The Nature Conservancy (TNC) buying the debt, in exchange for a promise to create 13 new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwf.panda.org\u002Four_work\u002Foceans\u002Fsolutions\u002Fprotection\u002Fprotected_areas\u002F\"\u003Emarine protected areas (MPAs)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EYou might also like:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca title=\"Why indigenous folklore can save animals’ lives\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200728-the-mythical-creatures-that-protect-the-philippines\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy indigenous folklore can save animals’ lives\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200311-can-green-islams-environmental-fatwas-help-climate-change\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Muslim clerics preaching for Indonesia’s peat\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"The%20sparkling%20rise%20of%20the%20lab%20grown%20diamond\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe sparkling rise of the lab grown diamond\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the five years since, the Seychelles has progressed from protecting 0.04% to 30% of its national waters, covering 410,000 square kilometres (158,000 square miles) of ocean – an area larger than Germany. Fishing, oil exploration and other marine development has been banned or severely restricted in the MPAs. Anyone who carries out illegal activities in these areas faces a hefty fine, or, in some cases, imprisonment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A fisherman sitting in a boat of fish (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe swap has been hailed as a major milestone for ocean conservation. Conservationists say it sets a strong precedent for other countries to strike similar deals which benefit both the economy and environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow the deal works\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe nation’s foreign debt is mostly owed to the UK, France, Belgium and Italy. TNC bought it at a discount and then raised a further $5m (£3.8m) from philanthropic donors to lower the interest rate on the government’s outstanding loan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deal has allowed the Seychelles’ government to buy back some of its debt at a discount and restructure it, while freeing up cash flow for conservation, says Rob Weary who leads TNC’s debt conversion programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDebt-for-nature swaps have taken place in the past to preserve tropical forests in the Caribbean and South America, but the Seychelles’ deal is the first of its kind to focus on marine conservation and the first to use loan capital to help finance the swap, says Weary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe government repays the TNC loans into a specially created independent trust, the Seychelles Conservation and Climate Adaptation Trust (SeyCCAT), which will use this to fund marine conservation and climate adaptation programmes over the next 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve already dispersed over $1.5m (£1.15m),” says Angelique Pouponneau, chief executive of SeyCCAT. The trust has invested in several women-led initiatives, including a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fseyccat.org\u002Fseaweed-a-hidden-resource-a-recycling-project\u002F\"\u003Eproject that pays poor women to clear seaweed off beaches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and turn it into compost for home gardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe debt for nature swap involved one of the most extensive ocean-mapping projects in the world, second only to the Marine Spatial Plan completed by Norway. The process took several years to finish as a team worked to pinpoint which high biodiversity areas should be protected, while trying to minimise economic damage to existing industries, says Helena Sims, a marine biologist who led the project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A hawksbill sea turtle swimming, as seen from below (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe MPAs cover 85% of the Seychelles’ coral reefs and 88% of the nation’s shallow waters, where most nature tourism occurs, according to Sims. She says fishermen, petroleum companies, conservationists and tourism operators were all consulted in the process. “We had to balance social, economic and ecological objectives. If you don’t have good agreement, you might not have compliance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFinancial benefits\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe global economy would greatly benefit from the creation of more protected areas, more than 100 scientists and economists said in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eurekalert.org\u002Fpub_releases\u002F2020-07\u002Fasu-3o070820.php#:~:text=The%20report%20entitled%2C%20%22Protecting%2030,%2C%20forestry%2C%20and%20fisheries%20sectors.\"\u003Erecent report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProtecting at least 30% of the world’s land and oceans could lead to an increase of $250bn (£191.9bn) of global economic revenue annually, the report found. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iucn.org\u002Fnews\u002Fsecretariat\u002F201811\u002Freport-shows-15-terrestrial-and-7-marine-areas-now-covered-protected-areas\"\u003ECurrently only 15% of the world’s land and 7% of the oceans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are covered by protected areas. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblog.marine-conservation.org\u002F2020\u002F02\u002F2020-is-here-will-we-meet-global-conservation-targets-for-marine-protected-areas.html\"\u003EJust 2.5% of the oceans falls within “no-take” MPAs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that prohibit fishing and human extraction of natural resources, such as oil and gas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProtected areas significantly drive economic growth, says Anthony Waldron, a researcher focused on conservation finance and lead author of the report. “[Conservation] benefits are bigger than the costs. Protected areas generate more economic revenue than fishing [and act] as an economic driver for nature tourism, a rapidly growing industry,” Waldron says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Seychelles recognised the benefits marine conservation could yield. “Sustainability is particularly important for a small island nation like the Seychelles which is very dependent on the environment. Fisheries and tourism are the two pillars of our economy,” says Pouponneau.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A scientist surveying a reef in the Seychelles (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFish products make up 96% of the total value of domestic exports and are critical to the nation’s food security, which has one of the highest levels of fish consumption per capita in the world, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fewsdata.rightsindevelopment.org\u002Ffiles\u002Fdocuments\u002F42\u002FWB-P155642_vUnwDBU.pdf\"\u003Eaccording to the World Bank\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fewsdata.rightsindevelopment.org\u002Ffiles\u002Fdocuments\u002F42\u002FWB-P155642_vUnwDBU.pdf\"\u003E2017 report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the World Bank warned that the “unsustainable use of the marine environment is a major risk to the future of the Seychelles’ blue economy”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe MPAs will help declining fish stocks recover as well as increase the size and diversity of fish, which in turn should boost fishermen’s incomes and overall revenues, says Enric Sala, a marine ecologist and National Geographic explorer who has carried out research in the Seychelles. “The fish in these areas are in much better shape. They produce more eggs and larvae and replenish life in the ocean,” he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFully protected marine reserves can increase the total biomass of fish by over 600%, boost their size by over 25% and expand the variety of species by over 20%, compared to nearby unprotected areas, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fpii\u002FS0308597X17307686#bib3\"\u003E2018 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tourism benefits are also enormous, says Sala, noting that a healthy coral reef can generate billions of dollars in revenue. The Great Barrier Reef contributed $6.4bn (£4.91bn) to the Australian economy in 2016 and helped support more than 64,000 jobs, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww2.deloitte.com\u002Fcontent\u002Fdam\u002FDeloitte\u002Fau\u002FDocuments\u002FEconomics\u002Fdeloitte-au-economics-great-barrier-reef-230617.pdf\"\u003E2017 analysis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoral reefs are also effective storm barriers which save countries over $4bn (£3.07bn) in flood damages every year, according to TNC. Without coral reefs, the annual cost of flood damage would double and storm costs would triple, TNC researchers said in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-018-04568-z\"\u003E2018 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHealthy ocean, healthy planet\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also strong mental and physical health benefits associated with spending time in nature, Sala says. “When people visit protected areas, their mental wellbeing improves. Nature has this power to reduce our stress,” he notes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The view from a beach in the Seychelles (Credit: Reuters)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flink.springer.com\u002Farticle\u002F10.1007\u002Fs00484-019-01717-x\"\u003E2019 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that “forest bathing” – the Japanese practice of spending time among trees – could significantly lower people’s levels of the stress hormone cortisol, reduced blood pressure, improved concentration and memory. Exposure to airborne chemicals emitted by plants and trees can also boost immunity. For example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002F17903349\u002F\"\u003Ea small study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Efound increased activity by a certain type of white blood cell, in men who had been exposed to “phytoncides” – a type of antimicrobial compound which contributes to the pleasant aroma of forests – in their hotel rooms.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperts say a healthy ocean should form a critical part of the global recovery from the coronavirus pandemic. “A healthy ocean presents enhanced opportunities for economic recovery post Covid-19, and for building resilience and withstanding the impacts of natural disasters and extreme weather events,” Commonwealth Secretary-General Patricia Scotland said in May.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESala says the pandemic was caused by human destruction of ecosystems and highlights the importance of countries prioritising conservation in their recovery from the crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe recovery presents “a good opportunity to reconsider the debt of low-income countries and help them lift some of their debt, [and] at the same time help them invest in the nature sector which is going to be key for longer term prosperity”, says Sala.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETNC estimates that up to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.org\u002Fen-us\u002Fabout-us\u002Fwhere-we-work\u002Fafrica\u002Fstories-in-africa\u002Fseychelles-conservation-commitment-comes-to-life\u002F#:~:text=Seychelles%20is%20a%20Model%20for%20the%20World&text=The%20MSP%20covers%20all%201.4,covered%20by%20such%20a%20plan.\"\u003E85 countries could use a debt for nature model\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to make their economies more resilient and Weary says plans for similar deals are already under way in several Caribbean and African countries. “This type of deal builds long-term resilience. With climate change we should be prepared for many crises,” says Pouponneau.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHidden Value\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe tend to think that there are rational, permanent reasons that we desire certain things more than others. But from the Aztecs, who were baffled that Spanish conquistadors prized gold over feathers, to the modern-day, where negative oil prices recently flummoxed global markets, history tells us that this is not always the case. This series takes a look at the hidden factors that drive the value we place on things – and how what we prize might change in the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E or \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=fut.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “The Essential List”. A handpicked selection of stories from \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Future\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-03T13:33:34.215Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The deal that saved Seychelles’ troubled waters","headlineShort":"The islands paid to save their seas","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"After defaulting on its substantial national debt, the Seychelles was offered an unusual deal.","summaryShort":"Should countries be paid to protect their wildlife?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-08-05T02:02:18.832928Z","entity":"article","guid":"9b91460b-5673-4d97-85e9-8d9bdc91c9ca","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T19:00:35.528977Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484333},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","_id":"621f93a445ceed427a35c6b8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham"],"bodyIntro":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you stand on the northernmost tip of Bird Island, it can feel like you're looking at eternity: there is ocean as far as the eye can see. The effect is similar when you snorkel off the same shore; not far out from the beach, the Earth plunges away into a dark oceanic abyss hundreds, then thousands, of metres deep. The feeling is akin to vertigo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island is the most northern isle of the Seychelles' 115-island archipelago. It sits on the outer rim of the vast, undersea Mascarene Plateau, an extraordinary uplift of mid-ocean shallow water that covers an area larger than Portugal. The plateau begins at Bird Island and continues south for 2,000km, running almost the length of Madagascar. In the other direction, north of Bird, the Indian Ocean is deep, wide and uninterrupted by any landfall all the way to the Arabian Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island's geography alone makes its story worth telling. But in the past half-century, Bird tells a parallel story of natural renewal, one almost without peer in the world of birds. And it all has to do with the ultimate contradiction: Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br49b8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A large group of birds gathers on a beach right near the water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBird Island first entered the historical record in 1771 when the captain of a passing trading ship, The Eagle, described the island as \"covered with birds innumerable\" and with \"many sea cows (dugongs) on the beach\". He named it Bird Island. Thirty-seven years later, in 1808, the French privateering ship Hirondelle ran aground on a reef off Bird's north-eastern coast. Half of the 180 people on board died; the other half made it to Bird Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey survived in part because it was September, when the island is filled with birds – a much-needed source of food. Even so, after 22 days, with limited water and with no prospect of rescue, six of the sailors set out on a makeshift raft for Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles archipelago 100km south of Bird, and the shipwreck survivors were subsequently saved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the next 150 years, very little happened on Bird. One enterprising farmer tried to grow papaya, cotton and coconuts; only the coconuts brought in any real income. In 1882, a passing British ship found two Africans living on the island, salting fish and birds in what must have been the loneliest of existences. In the decade following 1895, Bird exported nearly 20,000 tons (20 million kg) of guano (bird droppings) as fertiliser to the sugarcane growers of Mauritius. At the time, 100 people lived on the island. There has never been a town on Bird and the only people living on the island were those working there. Whenever trade dried up or crops failed, the workers left, leaving the island nearly deserted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 1950s, only a handful of people remained, coconut groves entirely covered the island and the breeding colony of sooty terns had fallen from more than a million pairs to barely 18,000 because there were no restrictions on eating the birds and the proliferation of coconut trees meant that more birds were unable to nest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen a Seychellois accountant named Guy Savy bought the island in 1967, world prices for copra (dried coconut) were in freefall. \"We ran it as a normal coconut plantation,\" said Savy, \"until it became clear that there was more money in birds than in coconuts – that wildlife tourism was the future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGambling on wildlife over coconuts was a pioneering move. Bird was the first of Seychelles' smaller islands to go down that path. Making the bet even bolder was that, at the time, the only way to reach the country was on a monthly ship arriving from Bombay (now Mumbai) or Mombasa, Kenya. Back then, to get to Bird from the main island of Mahé, involved a 12-hour boat ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut everything was about to change. In 1972, Seychelles finally got its first international airport. By the time it opened, Savy had finished Bird Island's own airstrip in readiness. The following year, the island welcomed its first tourists with 10 chalets, rising to 24 a few years later. Savy completed a new lodge in 1993.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br49xb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A tortoise heads along sand toward the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, visitors to the island fell in love with Esmeralda: a giant male Aldabra tortoise with a nearly 2m long. He entered the Guinness Book of Records in 1989 as the world's heaviest tortoise, weighing in at 298kg. According to local legend, Esmeralda was born in the 1780s and arrived on Bird Island aboard the shipwrecked Hirondelle in 1808. If true, that would make Esmeralda nearly 220 years old, meaning he has been alive for almost as long as there have been people living in Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose fortunate enough to visit Bird Island could – and still can – also see green and hawksbill turtles, as well as the 23 other giant tortoises who live on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan's acidic underwater hot springs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital\"\u003ENew Zealand's endangered penguin hospital\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoyenne Island: The world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the real focus is the birds. When Savy bought the island, there were 15,000 nesting pairs of sooty terns – sleek, black-winged birds with an affecting black eye stripe. Sooty terns are remarkable birds. They have no oil in their feathers and are, therefore, unable to float. Most sooty terns only land when nesting and rearing their young. At Bird Island, that's from April or May to October.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Between seasons, they spend the whole time on the wing: they do not return to land to roost or to rest,\" said Rachel Bristol, an expert in sooty terns with extensive experience of Bird Island and its breeding colonies; she is currently collaborating with the Max Planck Institute of Animal Behaviour to track around 250 sooty terns. \"They obviously do sleep, but they probably sleep for short bursts frequently while flying, and may be able to shut down the two halves of the brain separately so that they are always aware of what is around them.\" Just as incredibly, she said, \"they can clearly spend years airborne: when they fledge, they possibly do not return to land until they reach breeding age, which is around five years old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4blm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two birds with bright underbodies stand on the ground","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESooty tern eggs have traditionally been considered a delicacy by the people of Seychelles, and, from the beginning, Savy prohibited anyone from eating the island's birds and eggs. Because rabbits and rats wreak havoc on these ground-nesting birds, his team eradicated them. Crucially, they also discovered that, because they need open, sandy soil on which to lay their eggs, sooty terns could not nest beneath the coconut palm trees, of which there were far too many on Bird. Savy cleared the coconut trees from the island's north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlmost immediately, the sooty terns returned: in season, there are now an estimated 350,000 breeding pairs, although the number has reached 500,000 in the past. The sooty terns on Bird nest, says Bristol, at a density of seven nests per square metre, spread across the 13-hectare breeding colony. Bird Island is now one of the world's largest bird breeding colonies – and, said Bristol, one of the most important and best-managed such colonies anywhere in the Seychelles archipelago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith so many sooty terns on an island that covers less than 1 sq km of land, it's easy to imagine that there would be little room for anything else. But the island's portfolio of resident and migrant avifauna is rich and varied and includes terns and tropicbirds, plovers and ruddy turnstones, shearwaters and even a resident population of the handsome Seychelles blue pigeon. Even the island's shape resembles a bird: if you look at a satellite image of Bird Island, it resembles in outline a coquettish dove adrift in the Indian Ocean. And so rich is the birdlife here that Bird took on a starring role in two episodes of Sir David Attenborough's classic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0175394\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Life of Birds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, broadcast in 1998 and 1999.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can feel like stepping into one of those episodes when you travel to Bird.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4c0z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hundreds of birds flying in the sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt takes just half an hour to get between Mahé and Bird Island by plane. But they are worlds apart. Mahé is quite densely populated with plenty of modern infrastructure. On Bird, there are no motorised vehicles and the airstrip must be checked for tortoises before planes receive permission to land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can be tempting to remove your shoes as you deplane on Bird, tuck them away in your suitcase and not put them back on again until it's time to depart. This is a place to feel the sand between your toes, to walk beneath the casuarina trees in the island's south or amid the remaining coconut palms that shade the walking trails of the interior. Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.birdislandseychelles.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBird Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing. Best of all, there is nothing to stop you from walking all the way around the island – it only takes an hour – without leaving the beach. The only interruptions will likely be frequent stops for a swim, a snorkel or to gaze out to sea and the infinite horizon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoral is everywhere: under the water; under the sand. \"It's a coral cay, as opposed to a granite or volcanic island like many of the other islands in Seychelles,\" said Savy. \"The prevailing winds come from the south-east, and over thousands of years they have pushed the coral over the island – that's how the island was created. If you dig down anywhere on the island, you won't find rocks. You find coral.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from Bird Island Resort always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravellers who visit between April and October will also hear the birds before they see them. The terns' gull-like clamour is a constant soundtrack, a reassuring evocation of remote ocean shores and deserted tropical beaches. But with darkness comes silence and more stars in the night sky than you ever knew existed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStay for long enough and you can almost feel the stress and noise of the human world ebbing away with the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other Seychelles islands, which have exclusive, luxury resorts, Savy and his team have gone for simplicity, for a fidelity to barefoot tourism with nature ascendant. There is in-room electricity and wifi, for example, but ocean breezes flood the rooms instead of air-con.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've always tried to keep things simple,\" said Savy. \"It's a back-to-nature experience. We don't compromise on that. We've never disturbed the island. We leave it alone and see what happens to it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-03T15:55:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A paradise with too many palm trees","headlineShort":"A paradise with too many palm trees","image":["p0br47qn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.7196093","longitude":"55.2015406","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","promoImage":["p0br47qn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","summaryShort":"Cutting them down had a surprising result","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-02T15:56:02.811596Z","entity":"article","guid":"1e6bb3b8-810e-4cf5-8da4-d767c741a7db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-02T21:09:04.383962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fseychelles","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_seychelles_africa"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","_id":"621d1a4045ceed44e627dadb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find – but travellers-in-the-know can still feast on delicious traditional dishes around the Indian Ocean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a steep valley high on the eastern slopes of the Seychelles island of Mahé, the spice garden of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seychelles.fr\u002Fjardin-roi.php\"\u003ELe Jardin du Roi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tells a story of unimaginable variety. Anchored by a graceful 19th-Century home of white wood, soaring ceilings and big windows designed to catch a cooling mountain breeze, Le Jardin du Roi is a window on so much that is good about traditional Seychelles Creole cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 120 different species of spices and fruits grow here across 25 hectares that face down towards the sea. Guided trails wind past coconut palms and cinnamon, avocado and jackfruit. Right next to the entrance, nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) grows wild and free.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELe Jardin du Roi began life in 1772, barely two years after the first French settlers had arrived to establish the fledgling Seychelles colony. Eager for France to join the lucrative global trade in spices, the French colonist Pierre Poivre sent clandestine expeditions to the spice islands of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and the Moluccas (Dutch East Indies) to steal spices so that they might be grown in Seychelles. Poivre's dastardly act of horticultural piracy nearly came to nothing: in 1780, the island's governor destroyed the spice garden when he mistook an approaching ship for an enemy vessel: the spices were too valuable to fall into enemy hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome survived, and they would become central to Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Smoked fish salad on white plate","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen these first European settlers arrived in the Seychelles in the 18th Century, they found an uninhabited string of islands blessed with rich abundance. The waters were rich in fish and the year-round climate – Seychelles lies beyond the Indian Ocean cyclone zone – was conducive to the establishment of small plantations where, until slavery was abolished in 1835, enslaved Africans often did most of the work growing food. The location, too, combined deep-ocean isolation with a safe harbour for passing ships that carried with them spices and culinary influences from Europe, Africa, India and China. In this complicated confluence of factors was born Seychelles' unique tradition of Creole cooking (the word ‘Creole’ is the adjective locals use to describe the people, language and cuisine of Seychelles).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I arrived in Seychelles in January, I expected a sampling of Creole dishes to be a major highlight of my visit. I imagined myself dining beneath coconut palms, looking out upon a turquoise sea as I tried the traditional flavours for which Seychelles is famous. I dreamed of fragrant spices – some known to me, others more unusual – wafting on ocean breezes. And I was very excited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's unknown indigenous cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fried food that defines an island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt turned that it wasn't that simple. Yes, almost every local with whom I spoke wanted to talk about the wonders of their national cuisine. And yes, they told a story of dishes filled with spices, flavours and natural ingredients. But almost in the same breath they apologised for how difficult it would be for me to try these dishes. It was, they said, a familiar story of globalisation, of how a younger generation of Seychellois were far more interested in fast food – pizza, hamburgers and the like – than local foods. Many restaurants were, they assured me, moving away from traditional dishes and towards catering to this new generation's appetite for everything new and foreign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHoping they were wrong, worried that they may be right, I set out to try and unearth what remained of Seychelle's culinary tradition. To do so, I called on three masters of Seychelles' culinary life. With me at upmarket restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flescaleresort.com\u002Fdining\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL’Escale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, overlooking the marina at Eden Island close to the capital Victoria, were Rose-Marie Emont and her Belgian-born husband Philos, who together opened one of the first restaurants in Seychelles – Chez Philos – back in 1981. Now retired, Philos is widely considered a pioneer of modern Seychellois cooking. Another of Seychelles' premier chefs and culinary identities, Christelle Verheyden, joined us as well. Between them they brought to the table nearly a century of local and international experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt first, they confirmed what I'd been told: \"We're losing a lot,\" said Rose-Marie. \"And we're losing it fast.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"White house in Le Jardin Du Roi Spice Garden, Mahe Island, Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut I wanted to know exactly what it was that was being lost, and over the hours that followed, they told a story of great variety and abundance. \"I had a guest who stayed with us for one month,\" remembered Philos. \"He ate every day in the restaurant. I made a bet with him: for every day that he ate in my restaurant, he would eat a different kind of fish. We did it. It was easy – 27 or 28 different kinds.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey also spoke about the intricacies of individual dishes that Seychellois hold dear. Should the bones be left in an authentic Creole chicken curry? They should. Do you roast the cardamom and other spices before cooking the curry? Absolutely. Do you mix notoriously fiery Seychelles chillies into an octopus curry or serve it separately? Either is fine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe three of them laughed at the audacity of some of the dishes that Philos and Rose-Marie prepared back in the day. There was the fruit-bat pâté whose fame reached Seychelles' presidential palace; the then-president used to send his personal driver to Chez Philos to pick up supplies. Or the sea-urchin soufflé; Rose-Marie's eyes glazed over at the memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf some of the dishes were in danger of disappearing, the three of them said, at least many of the natural ingredients survived. Philos swore that he could still find a different fish to cook for every day of the month, just as he had nearly four decades ago. \"Seychelles has the best avocado in the world,\" added Verheyden. \"If you see them on the table at the market or by the side of the road, buy them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe same is also true of spices. According to Verheyden, \u003Cem\u003Ecurry-pili\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a fragrant curry leaf that is generally smaller than the Indian version, is still used in local curries. \"Curry-pili and cinnamon still grow wild. You can stop alongside the road and find it easily.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rose-Marie and Philos Emont from Chez Philos, Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERose-Marie acknowledged that she still cooked traditional dishes at home for friends and family. And it remains a popular Sunday tradition among Seychellois to gather in family groups on the beach for barbecues, particularly at Au Cap and Anse Royale. At some, traditional Creole dishes – marinated tuna steaks cut open and filled with garlic and coriander and perhaps cooked in banana leaves; a curry animated with the bitter-sweet, cranberry-like flavours of hibiscus flowers – remain popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Traditionally, you would be invited to the home of family and friends. This is where we eat","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch gatherings are very much in keeping with how the Seychellois have always enjoyed their food. \"There is no tradition of people eating out in restaurants,\" said Rose-Marie. \"Traditionally, you would be invited to the home of family and friends. This is where we eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe problem, I was learning, is not that Creole cooking is disappearing from the islands. It's just becoming harder to find in the public sphere. Or is it?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn many restaurant menus, hidden among more international dishes, it is still possible to find grilled fish, smoked mackerel and marlin, mango salads, chicken or shrimp or octopus curries: these were all staples in the old Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf the high-end restaurants, L'Escale, whose kitchen Verheyden oversees, serves traditional dishes like the \"awfully spicy\" boudin Creole (black pudding) and \u003Cem\u003Echatini \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a traditional chutney-like salad of papaya, green mango and\u002For pumpkin, served cold or lukewarm). When she can get them, Verheyden makes sure that there is \u003Cem\u003Ecamaron\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a small, freshwater shrimp found only in a few Seychelles streams, on the menu. \"When I serve that,\" she said, \"there are often Seychellois crying, because they remember eating these when they were kids, and they haven't eaten them for 20 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe trio agreed that street food and some of the small takeaway places and informal restaurants scattered around Seychelles are good spots to try. Covid-permitting, Bazar Labrin, a Wednesday-evening food market by the beach at Beau Vallon, on the north-west coast of Mahé, might be a good place to find traditional foods such as chilli bites (lentils soaked in chilli then fried), fish cooked in banana leaves or aubergine fritters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Creole set menu at Marie-Antoinette","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I had some very nice aubergine fritters at La Gaulette,\" Verheyden recalled. \"That's another good place.\" La Gaulette is across the road from the long and lovely Baie Lazare beach along Mahé's south-western coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"And what about Le Reduit? Or Chez Léon?\" asked Philos, and all murmured in agreement; both are in Anse La Mouche on Mahé's south-west coast. Takeaway restaurant Chez Léon is the simple, eponymous home kitchen of a renowned Seychellois chef who once worked with Philos. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmarieantoinetterestaurant\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarie-Antoinette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stalwart of Creole cooking on a rise above the capital, Victoria. Once under the watchful eye of culinary matriarch Madam Fonseka, it has now passed to her grandchildren, and many dishes remain the same: their Creole set menu is a reassuring collection of greatest hits that includes chicken coconut curry, coconut chatini, mango salad, aubergine fritters, parrotfish fritters, tuna steak with a Creole sauce and more. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I go to La Digue,\" said Rose-Marie, speaking of one of the other inner islands, a short boat ride from Mahé, \"I go to the north-east of the island. There's one little restaurant there, called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FChezJulescafe\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChez Jules\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – perfect. You must order the palm heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we finally got up from the table, rumours of traditional Creole cooking's demise seemed greatly exaggerated. There are certainly more international restaurants in Seychelles than there used to be, and fewer places like Chez Philos. And perhaps because the Seychellois still eat mostly at home, my three companions had initially feared the worst. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut as I'd learned, you just need to know where to look.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Grilled catch of the day in Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-10T10:19:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The hidden legacy of the Seychelles' island cuisine","headlineShort":"What is true \"Creole cuisine\"?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-4.588232","longitude":"55.453384","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find – but travellers-in-the-know can still feast on delicious traditional dishes around the Indian Ocean archipelago.","summaryShort":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-09T21:20:27.485355Z","entity":"article","guid":"faed4bd7-5d89-4a3e-8ec0-c5b8a4cd6fc0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:45.360341Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484333},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","_id":"623093cb45ceed2cbb765318","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo"],"bodyIntro":"As tourism has impacted parts of Seychelles' environment, the island nation now aims to protect its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMade up of 115 islands dotting the Indian Ocean off East Africa, Seychelles is known as a global hotspot for biodiversity. With as much as 85% of its animals and 45% of its plant species considered endemic, the archipelago is sometimes called the \"Galapagos of the Indian Ocean\". And both on land and in the ocean, different groups are working to preserve this ecological paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis year, after creating a sophisticated zoning plan and completing extensive conversations with representatives from the country's tourism, fishing, petroleum and conservation efforts, the island nation is prepared to fully implement the landmark Marine Spatial Planning Initiative it announced several years ago: to protect 30% of its ocean territory. Tourism, climate change and other factors have already greatly impacted the environment of the Seychelles' more populated \"Inner Islands\", so this agreement – part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea deal to write off its national debt in exchange for conservation measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – is now aimed at protecting its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F185\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAldabra Atoll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the Outer Islands that the initiative will help preserve. This rare cluster of coral reef islands has been somewhat naturally protected for years due to its remote location (visitors require a special permit for access and must travel a whole day to get there), but, like many parts of the Seychelles, it is still susceptible to the dangers of climate change. In 1998, the Seychelles lost 90% of its coral reefs in a major coral bleaching event as a result of rising sea temperatures. The 13 new Marine Protected Areas are intended to preserve its ocean territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the environmental gains the protection areas will bring, the agreement has not been without its challenges. For example, in these new protected areas – which encompass an area the size of Germany – about half of the country's previous fishing areas would be off limits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Seychelles claims it's looking to bridge the gap between the ambitious initiative and the immediate needs of local economies by including stakeholders (such as fishing and tourism workers) in the conversation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":["p0bv93hr"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We are very small. We have very limited land mass, and we need the space for economic development,\" said Sherin Francis, chief executive of the Seychelles Tourism Board. \"But yet we manage to strike that balance and ensure that 50% of our land territory is protected.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ocean isn't the only part of Seychelles that's being preserved. On land, the National Parks Authority guards over two main areas, Morne Seychellois Park and Praslin National Park, both of which are home to an extensive list of endemic animal and plant species. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fmorne-seychellois\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMorne Seychellois Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the largest island of Mahé, covers 20% of the island's surface, provides fresh water to locals, and is crisscrossed by trails that pass historical ruins from when French and British colonists and Indian and Chinese traders passed through the islands. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fpraslin-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPraslin National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F261\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVallée de Mai Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a palm forest on the Unesco World Heritage List.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe parks' official designation was established once the Seychelles started growing as a tourist destination, a few years after the first international airport was built and the island nation gained its independence. Similar to the initiatives at sea, the national park status was meant to help protect the land while creating an infrastructure to allow visitors to enjoy it by walking more than 15km of trails and viewing its rare bird species and plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith all eyes on their landmark conservation goals, Seychelles is gearing up to show how such a small nation can become an example for the many other insular countries facing the effects of climate change. Hopefully, it's not too late.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-2"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-16T13:24:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Africa's global biodiversity hotspot","headlineShort":"The island nation that saved its ocean","image":["p0bv9kqs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-7.0686517","longitude":"46.6774327","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bv9kqs"],"relatedStories":["future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As tourism has impacted parts of Seychelles' environment, the island nation now aims to protect its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.","summaryShort":"It's known as a global hotspot for biodiversity","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:25:12.938292Z","entity":"article","guid":"b8ae7f54-dbe5-43b9-816d-4b65e982076c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:25:12.938292Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fseychelles"],"destinationStat":"africa_seychelles","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484332},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road","_id":"621e445545ceed69f2673d12","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Dempster Highway is one of Canada's ultimate road trips – but anyone who drives it needs to be prepared for misadventure.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur tiny Cessna juddered above the tundra – a landscape of vivid green threaded with dark blue streaks of meltwater streams and blotched with myriad ice-melt lakes. In places, the land bubbled up in smooth green hillocks. \"Pingos,\" the pilot's voice came through my headphones. \"Permafrost hillocks,\" he explained, seeing my raised eyebrows. A dark ribbon of road wound its way between these strange, rounded protrusions. A couple of days prior, I'd driven the Dempster Highway all the way to the Arctic Ocean and wanted to see it from above before making my long journey back to Dawson City, Yukon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Dempster is considered to be one of Canada's toughest drives. \"Highway\" is a rather glamorous term for a lonely gravel road that branches off the Klondike Highway – which runs between Yukon's capital, Whitehorse, and the Klondike Gold Rush settlement of Dawson City – cutting its way through 764km of dense spruce forest, tundra and snow-covered hills before arriving in Inuvik, the northernmost Arctic town in the Northwest Territories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Dempster Highway was conceived in the late 1950s to open up the MacKenzie Delta to oil and gas exploration and traced a decades-old dog sled patrol route. Now, a new stretch of highway connects to the Dempster, extending a further 147km beyond Inuvik, all the way to the tiny settlement of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETuktoyaktuk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the shores of the Arctic Ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis long, lonely Dempster Highway is one of Canada's ultimate road trips; an exhilarating four-wheeled adventure across a pristine northern landscape. It's also a hard drive in a hard land (you get a certificate of completion from the Inuvik tourist office if you drive its entire length) as the road is unpaved, there's no phone signal and there's only one petrol station around halfway along. Anyone who drives it needs to be prepared for misadventure, as I found out myself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Blue vehicle waiting to cross the Peel River at Fort McPherson","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur little group – me, the pilot, a couple more sightseers – was returning to Inuvik after a day trip to Tuk (as locals call Tuktoyaktuk), run by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftundranorthtours.com\u002F\"\u003ETundra North Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Until 2018, the Inuvialiut (Western Canadian Inuit) hamlet could only be accessed via bush plane, boat or ice road in winter, and Tuk's inhabitants still live mostly off the land: fishing, hunting and trapping, storing caught game in the community freezer underground. Some, like local guide Eileen Jacobson, who welcomed us into her home to try on her fur parkas and to sample \u003Cem\u003Epipsi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dried Arctic char) – an Inuit staple – were both hopeful and apprehensive about the permanent impact the new road will have on their lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Maybe it'll bring more visitors,\" she said. \"And maybe the price of gas, of groceries, will go down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENapoleon's gravity-defying 325km road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210510-the-worlds-loneliest-bus-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's loneliest bus route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's most challenging road?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there were undercurrents of concern as well. Locals up here are all too aware of how other, more accessible Inuit and First Nations communities in Canada have been devastated by the twin scourges of drugs and alcohol. Also, while Canada's Inuit receive government support for their traditional ways of life, age-old skills are nevertheless dying out, as dependence on modern technology replaces age-old navigation and hunting skills.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was still pondering all this a couple of days later as I was leaving Inuvik and its igloo church, rows of pastel-coloured houses and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Falestines\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlestine's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where I'd been going every day for bowls of reindeer chilli and fish tacos cooked inside an old school bus covered with sassy bumper stickers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt first, things went well. I navigated the bumpy washboard section of the Dempster in my SUV, hemmed in by dwarf spruce forest, and made it to the banks of the mighty MacKenzie River in just more than two hours. The waiting car ferry promptly whisked me across, past the blink-and-you'll-miss-it Gwich'in settlement of Tsiigehtchi sitting across the tributary from the ferry landing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A sign marking the location of the Arctic circle along the Dempster Highway","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.peelriverinn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EA little while later, I was turned away from the Peel River ferry landing, south of the marginally larger Gwich'in settlement of Fort McPherson – the last town I'd see before Dawson City, some 580km south. I was told that the summer meltwater had raised the water levels in the river and this ferry could not dock. \"When will service resume?\" I asked. The man shrugged. \"Maybe tomorrow, maybe not.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike the locals, I'd found myself at the mercy of nature's caprices. Unlike the locals, however, it was not a matter of life or death for me. Imagine having a medical emergency in Fort McPherson during the freezing (November to December) or the thawing (March to April) of the two rivers, when ferries aren't running but the ice road isn't open either.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI spent the night at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.peelriverinn.com\u002F\"\u003EPeel River Inn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the settlement's only motel, returning to the car ferry landing the following day. By this point, I was racing against time. Having used up one of my two \"just-in-case\" reserve days, I had little room for error if I wanted to make my flight out of Whitehorse. This time, I was in luck. The summer meltwater had receded sufficiently for the car ferry to dock, and I gingerly drove my SUV onboard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDense evergreen forest hugged the road on both sides and gravel flew from beneath my wheels as I pressed on south. There was a meditative quality to the monotony of the landscape; within hours, I'd left the craggy hills, snow-flecked tundra and glacial rivers behind and the world outside my car had been reduced to a green blur of spruce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I should make my flight as long as I don't break down again,\" I thought to myself. But besides the hassle of having to rearrange my travel plans, there was a more compelling reason I didn't want to be stranded in these parts. It was not hunger or thirst that worried me, and by now I was even relatively phlegmatic about potential grizzly bear encounters. But I was frightened of wildfires, which have become increasingly common in the Canadian Arctic in the summer, caused by lightning storms. Having had to drive through the smoke of a wildfire elsewhere in the Northwest Territories, I discovered that the smell of burning triggered visceral, primal fear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Two grizzly bears trot down the muddy Dempster Highway in Yukon Territory","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feagleplainshotel.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ELuckily, along the Dempster that day, the weather obliged and the forest around me remained reassuringly damp and fog shrouded. It began to rain. Relief gave way to anxiety as the spatter of raindrops on my windshield became a deluge. Before long, the car skidded sideways as gravel-and-dirt turned to mud, and I discovered that there's little advantage to driving a 4X4 when you're trying to keep the car straight and steady and away from the sloping sides of the road. To skid off the side would be a disaster.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo when the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feagleplainshotel.ca\u002F\"\u003EEagle Plains motel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the halfway point along the Dempster – came into view, I was so relieved that I began to shake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's no phone signal along the Dempster for the most part, and hardly anyone's got a satellite phone","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's happened a couple of times,\" the waitress at the motel's restaurant confirmed, glancing around the largely empty dining room, when I recounted what happened to me. She was happy to shoot the breeze while I ordered from the menu of burgers and meatloaf. \"The driver went too fast on mud and slid right off the side. It's like driving on ice.\" I nodded. \"Couldn't even call us,\" she continued. \"There's no phone signal along the Dempster for the most part, and hardly anyone's got a satellite phone. Had to catch a ride back here with the next car they saw and wait a couple of days here before their car could be hauled out of the ditch.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI told her that the Dempster almost got me on the first day, when I originally drove up to Inuvik.  After navigating some 360km – the first half of the drive – without incident, I was lulled into a false sense of security. \"I wonder why my guidebook insisted on not one but two spare tyres,\" I thought idly to myself. Before long, my car started beeping, snapping me out of my reverie. On the console, I could see the pressure in one of my back tyres dropping alarmingly. A puncture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFlat tyres are less common than they used to be, back in the days when the Dempster was covered in tyre-shredding shale rather than more benign gravel, but it was a timely reminder that a mishap can still happen at any time. I had a jack and wrench and could change a tyre, in theory. But in the end, I managed to coast the last few kilometres into Eagle Plains on a near-flat, straight into the care of the resident mechanics, who patched my car up, enabling me to reach Inuvik the same day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Dempster Highway slicing through the landscape of Tombstone Territorial Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, on my way back to Dawson City, the last half of the drive back to the Klondike Highway was smoother sailing, with the forest opening up, the sun shining, the road arrow straight. But then, as a crowning touch, just as I passed the Dempster-Klondike junction, I got a strong whiff of petrol. I watched in disbelief as my fuel tank emptied within seconds, and the car came to a halt as the engine died – yet another reminder of the obstacles that the Dempster may throw at you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere was no phone signal, and as I stood on the Klondike Highway some 40km east of Dawson City, my car abandoned, it was possible that potential rescuers would not drive by for hours. However, within minutes of my breaking down, a Good Samaritan picked me up. As he drove me to my guesthouse in Dawson City, I realised that this had been part of the Dempster's charm all along: that whenever I'd come close to disaster, fortune smiled on me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps Canada's toughest road wasn't so tough after all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-25T01:17:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Driving Canada's toughest road","headlineShort":"Driving Canada's toughest road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"68.3607","longitude":"133.7230","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Dempster Highway is one of Canada's ultimate road trips – but anyone who drives it needs to be prepared for misadventure.","summaryShort":"It's so difficult, you get a certificate if you complete it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-24T22:41:23.534731Z","entity":"article","guid":"cb43d260-c929-4a16-915c-a114cb8735ac","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:52.48594Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484334},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture","_id":"621e444b45ceed67f021fad8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The gritty railroad town of Golden is home to the origin story of Western Canada’s celebrated mountain culture, which has lured countless adventurers for more than a century.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECanada’s gritty railroad town of Golden, BC, doesn’t boast the historical grandeur of Banff just to the east nor the new resort skiing hype of Revelstoke over the Continental Divide to the west. But it has its own unique claim to fame: it’s the gateway to Rogers Pass, home to some of the best backcountry skiing in Canada, which is why I was here with my crew of skiers to access big mountain-style alpine lines in the Selkirk range. And it’s also home to the origin story of Western Canada’s celebrated mountain culture, which has drawn in countless mountaineers, climbers and skiers just like us for more than a century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we pulled out of town to head west on the Trans-Canada Highway and wound up towards the summit of the pass, I glanced to the right, my attention caught by what looked to be a European chalet almost completely hidden in trees on the steep hillside. Its antique gingerbread facade, with steeply gabled, narrow two-storey roofs and ornate framework hanging from the eves, seemed anachronous in this blue-collar town dominated by rail and sawmill, where nearly all historic buildings were consumed in a fierce fire in 1926.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat curious house is one of eight that make up a little village called Edelweiss. In this nearly forgotten cluster of homes, on the fringe of this low-profile town, lived a group of Swiss guides who left an indelible mark on this part of the world. They put up numerous first ascents in Rogers Pass and around Banff and Lake Louise and unlocked these peaks for a new wave of adventurers looking for unclimbed mountains after Europe’s had been conquered. And they laid the foundation for skiing as the winter obsession it is today in this region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe chalet disappeared from the rear-view mirror as we drove up the highway that parallels the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) track, and it was immediately apparent why this formidable spine of untouched mountains presented CPR’s final hurdle in connecting the east and west of the country. Where progress had been swift from the coast and across the prairies, the seemingly impenetrable Selkirk Mountains between Golden and Revelstoke slowed building while surveyors searched for a pass and engineered the rail over its sharp landscape. In fact, the grade is so steep here that, due to the limitations in train locomotion in the late 1800s, it wasn’t feasible to haul dining cars – which had become a popular feature of rail travel – up the pass for the long journey between Banff and Golden to Revelstoke and onto Vancouver.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a solution, CPR built Glacier House, an alpine chalet close to the summit of the pass, where passengers could get off the train for meals and stay overnight if they chose. This was the latest iteration in CPR president William Van Horne’s vision of the railway as a vehicle to bring wealthy tourists to experience the romantic lifestyle of the mountains. CPR had already played a significant role in the development of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fglac\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlacier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fyoho\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYoho National Parks,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and built grand hotels in Banff and Lake Louise. But, concerned that guests would wander off and become lost (or worse) in these serrated peaks and crevassed glaciers so close to Glacier House – and the negative press that might ensure – CPR hired Swiss mountain guides, known as the best in the world for their depth of skill and breadth of knowledge, to stay at the chalet and guide its guests through these undiscovered mountains. This move was the advent of adventure tourism in Western Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180621-the-unlikely-home-of-the-worlds-smallest-desert\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unlikely home of the world's smallest desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's last Arctic village?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191215-the-little-known-us-canada-border-war\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe little-known Canada-US border war\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFirst up were Edouard Feuz Sr and Christian Haesler, brought by CPR from Interlaken in 1899. Seven more guides joined them, including Edouard’s brothers Walter and Ernest, who initially came to Canada each spring and returned to Switzerland in October. Each season, CPR worried that the guides, whom the railway relied on to help lure tourists, might not come back to Canada. So they built Edelweiss in 1912 for the guides to bring their families and stay permanently in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Swiss Village became a tourist attraction of its own, with a Disneyland-like sign at the base of the hill, visible from the passing train, announcing the presence of mountaineering greatness and the potential for hopeful climbers to leverage such accomplished guidance. The Swiss guides became well-known for guiding many tourists, aspiring climbers and serious climbers in the Selkirks. As much as CPR’s original mission was to provide the first transportation route to connect the young country, CPR’s marketing mission was to sell this part of Canada as unblemished country ripe for the adventurous to explore – and the Swiss guides were the lynchpin in this strategy. As Arthur Wheeler wrote in the \u003Cem\u003ECanadian Alpine Journal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in 1928, “The coming of the Swiss guides created a new era. Climbing became more general, and not confined only to mountaineers of repute in alpine circles and mountain clubs.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EParking at the highway’s zenith, we headed into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fglacier\u002Fvisit\u002Fheures-hours\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERogers Pass Discovery Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where staff directed us to the Swiss Guides room to don ski boots, examine maps and routes and read the avalanche report. It was like walking back in time. Glacier House no longer exists – pieces of its foundation still remain down by the Illecillewaet Campground in a ghost of its former glory – but a glimpse of its grand heyday has been preserved in antiques, recovered from the chalet, here in this room. Among the plush chairs, stone fireplace fronts, gold mantles and timber bar, with the sawtooth massif of the Hermit and Tupper mountains rising out the window, it was easy to imagine the train pulling up to Glacier Station and seeing Ernest Feuz brandishing climbing gear, waving from his post on the platform in what became a familiar sight for travellers on the CPR.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOld signs from the chalet hung from the post across the timber bar. One advertised “The Challenge of the Mountains”, complete with rentals of ponies and divided skirts for women to ride them. The journeys on offer from Glacier House for adventure seekers – Great Glacier for $1, Asulkan Glacier for $2, Baloo Pass via Cougar Valley for $5 – echoed some of the routes on our Rogers Pass ski touring maps. But it was the text at the bottom of this sign that caught my eye: “Swiss Guides are stationed at the hotel and are available for the service of tourists for the fee of $5 per day. The guides provide rope, ice axes, etc and visitors intending to climb should be equipped with stout boots, well-nailed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Swiss guides, renowned for their training in snow, rock, ice, weather, maps and first aid and rescue, established nearly all the first ascents of the peaks that we were now skiing among: Uto, Mt Sir Donald, Eagle, Avalanche, McGill, Ursus, MacDonald, Tupper and many more. They scoped and climbed each route, as well as trails and campsites on the way in, before guiding clients on it – but then offered the claim of first ascent to their guests in the humble tradition of mountain guiding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It seems almost incredible that he is in mountain climbing circles a world-famous person","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach guide notched more than 20 true first ascents to his name, though, with Ernest achieving a stunning 102. Upon Ernest’s death in 1952, then a fixture in the Golden community, as were the rest of the guides and their families, the local newspaper, Golden Star, called him a shockingly humble expert among experts: “Knowing Ernest as we do, as a very modest man, it seems almost incredible that he is in mountain climbing circles a world-famous person.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in Golden, my ski gear clammy from a long day of touring the pass, I sought out the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goldenbcmuseum.com\u002Fmuseum.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGolden Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to learn more about the guides. Inside the Quonset hut-style building, past the early First Nations exhibits, an alcove displayed antiquated climbing gear and grainy photos of men draped in ropes and standing on improbable perches in vast landscapes. Their guides, though, were conspicuously absent. It sparked my need for tangible stories about these people, for the beating heart of this legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhich is how I found Rudi Gertsch. Known around the region as the godfather of heli-skiing, he founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpurcellheliskiing.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPurcell Heliskiing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 1974 as the next generation of Swiss guides to put down roots and exert undeniable influence here, and was the first to bring ski tourists to Golden. Before this, Gertsch said, locals had a little ski hill at the Swiss village and another ski hill that they shared with the Swedes in the Blaeberry, a neighbourhood north of town. There were no lifts; people had to walk up the slope on snowshoes carrying their skis. The first lifts in Golden weren’t installed until 1986 on Whitetooth Ski Hill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGertsch grew up in a mountain-guiding family in Switzerland; his father had considered coming out to Golden after World War One, when CPR was looking for younger guides to join the first generation. “My dad was quite interested – it’s always interesting for any guide where he can still do some first ascents and new climbs somewhere that’s not overdeveloped – but he decided not to,” recalled Gertsch in a Swiss accent that’s been tempered by more than 50 years in Canada. “We talked about Canada and Golden since I was a kid. I was brought up with the idea of it. Then 30 years later, I ended up here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe’d planned to stay for a year, but his timing was lucky: heli-skiing was just getting started, and this modern access to the deeper parts of Canada’s untamed landscape again presented a fresh frontier. “It was so new and challenging, figuring out how to do this and being out in the mountains with no one around.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGertsch knew some of the old guides well; Walter and Edouard were still alive when he came out in 1966. “They were like grandfathers, they were very happy to see the next generation of guides coming in,” he said. They told him the stories of the early days, including the harsh realities concealed by the shroud of mountaineering glory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECPR had told the guides they’d have houses if they brought their families to Canada; but the architect of Edelweiss knew nothing about Swiss design: the chalets lacked insulation; they were built on a hillside that made gardening impossible; and were located outside town and across the tracks. Only a few months of the year were spent guiding; the rest of the time CPR had them shovelling snow off the chalets in Banff, Lake Louise and Rogers Pass, away from their families, for a pittance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"CPR knew that once they were here with their families, there was no way they could afford to go back","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The First [World] War followed by the Depression followed by the Second [World] War was a tough time for everyone, and they were dealing with a railroad that was more interested in making money for themselves than giving guides a decent wage,” Gertsch said. “CPR knew that once they were here with their families, there was no way they could afford to go back. And they never did.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGertsch passed many hours with Eduoard, the elderly guide regaling him with tales of the days when the glaciers spread all the way down to the railway. “We always had the highest respect for [the first Swiss guides]. They did some remarkable climbs in those days with nail boots, it’s amazing how they got up there. And in all the years they never had a single accident,” Gertsch marvelled. “They were treating the mountains with a lot of respect. In those days, there was no Search and Rescue, no radios, if something went wrong, they’d be out there by themselves.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore I left Golden, I drove across the tracks and up the icy dirt road at the edge of town to get a better look at the Swiss Village. The houses were mostly boarded up, but they were in good condition, even though no one’s lived here in years. I passed a man walking his hounds, who greeted me when I parked my truck. He introduced himself as Ken Hamilton, the owner of the village and its surrounding land. He told me that his wife Maryanne is Walter Feuz’s granddaughter. They lived in the Swiss Village up until five or six years ago, he said, and still come up almost daily to check on things. They plan to finish restoring the houses and rent them out. They’ll be temporary homes for all the skiers and climbers who come to adventure around here, drawn by the same lure of the unbridled Selkirks that’s persisted through more than 100 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt seems fitting that they’ll stay in the homes of the first men to open those mountains, following their routes, paths and enduring footsteps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-22T21:02:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The birthplace of Canada’s mountain culture","headlineShort":"The Swiss village lost in Canada","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The gritty railroad town of Golden is home to the origin story of Western Canada’s celebrated mountain culture, which has lured countless adventurers for more than a century.","summaryShort":"It’s lured countless mountaineers, climbers and skiers for more than a century","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:43:19.767042Z","entity":"article","guid":"e5875b66-8392-4126-8221-296b2478e416","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:37:00.612962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484334},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","_id":"621e445a45ceed69dc51506f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere is a mountain in the Allgäu Alps that is probably the most ludicrous in all of Europe. It is called the Sorgschrofen, it is 1,636m high, and it is marked by a G\u003Cem\u003Eipfelkreuz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or summit cross, which stands above a sheer-sided cliff face of white-webbed rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFormed from reef limestone, the knuckle looms above the triangle-shaped village of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jungholz.tirol\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungholz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the western Tirol of Austria. While it pales in significance to other mightier Alpine peaks, it fires the mind of cartophiles for a wholly unusual reason.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFor the cross at its top – an almost abstract feature on any map – marks the only geographical point where the Tirolean village and the rest of Austria meet. And almost unbelievably, this strip of connecting land is less than 1m wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENo matter the absurdity, it is utterly necessary. Because Jungholz, population 302, is as Austrian as Vienna or Salzburg – yet it is surrounded by Germany on all sides, with no road connection to Austria. The only way Austrians in the exclave can reach their homeland is via Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EJungholz had never crossed my mind prior to this winter, and it is highly likely you have never heard of it either. Many Austrians are also unfamiliar with the mountain village; before making the trip, I asked locals in the Tirolean towns of Kitzbühel and Innsbruck what to expect and no one was any wiser than I. My interest in its incongruous geography deepened.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sorgschrofen summit cross with grassy hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is also very common to meet tourists from the nearest German cities of Munich and Stuttgart who aren't aware of its geographic complexity. On a busy winter's day, some 3,000 of them journey to the exclave to ski Jungholz's modest collection of chairlifts and T-bars, besieging the village in helmets and with ski poles. The paradox, of course, is that most of them think they are still in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\"\u003EThe 'nation' with a useless passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustria's town that lost its visitors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEven Elze-Jan Hoek, a Dutch transplant who came from outside Utrecht with his wife to set up a farm and raise his children, was first brought to Jungholz by accident. \"My parents loved southern Bavaria and we used to drive down from the Netherlands for long summer holidays in nearby Pfronten,\" he told me, wistfully. \"So it felt natural to decide to move to Germany – but almost by mistake we found a B&B just over the border in Jungholz instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EToday, it is guesthouse owners like Hoek, as well as the ski lift company, who keep the Austrian village alive. It is extraordinarily tiny and from the top of its highest T-bar lift at 1,390m it is possible to see all of Jungholz, from the atypical Tirolean church to the multi-winged \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fberghoteltirol.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerghotel Tirol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in one swift head turn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"So many oddities exist here,\" said Arnold Holl, managing director of the ski lift company, as we stood absorbing what little there was of the panorama. \"Locals speak with a German dialect and have a German way of thinking. The staff are mostly from Germany. And I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day. I'm a Tiroler, and for me this is not the Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENonetheless, on arrival into Jungholz, a different message is proclaimed vividly in Germanic script on a gable-end mural on one of the first farmhouses visitors see when crossing the German-Austrian border. \"Grüß Gott im Land Tirol,\" it reads. \"May God bless you in the Land of Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Jungholz covered in snow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe fault lines that carved out Jungholz's place in history can be traced in the village's archives at the bottom of the main chairlift. And it is here that an outsider can learn how the land first changed hands on 24 June 1342, from Hermann Häselin, a farmer from Wertach in Germany, to Heinz Lochpyler, an Austrian taxman from nearby Tannheim. Also here, one can learn how the tiny exclave was ruled by Austria over the next half millennium, despite feudalism fizzling out in medieval Europe and the modern borders of Germany and Austria tightening their grip around Jungholz's edges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe last thing I read is how, on 3 May 1868, a state treaty between Austria and Bavaria enveloped the rural backwater into the German economic area – meaning, unlike the rest of Austria, Jungholz traded freely with its close neighbour for almost 90 years before the European Economic Community was created and a century before the European Union came into being.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe village might have felt constricting after a day had it not been for its fascinating history and spirited locals. When they told me how complex life could be here, they didn't just mean its bizarre geography.  They meant that most people are born in Germany (since the nearest Austrian hospital is too far away), but everyone gets an Austrian passport. That food and drink comes from Germany, but telephone and internet from Austria. That they have two different postal codes and, until the 1990s, two telephone codes. That they use doctors and dentists in Germany because there are none in Jungholz. That there is no secondary school, but an agreement that lets children go to a German school, 40 minutes away in Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a lot to take in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Welcome sign on Jungholz farmhouse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EChief among recent challenges has been how the Covid pandemic has further isolated the exclave from the rest of Austria. As well as all the closest testing and vaccination centres being in Germany, border control was introduced at the end of the village by Bavarian State Police, meaning residents were effectively cut off from the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a move that strengthened their resolve and, when the second of four national lockdowns in Austria was announced in November 2020, Mayor Karina Konrad negotiated an exemption for residents to essentially be treated as German citizens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"We've always had problems because of our geographical situation, so this was yet another example of how we're treated in a different way from other Austrians,\" Konrad told me. \"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal. In Germany, they said we weren't German and in Austria they said we weren't Austrian. In daily life we are neither Austrian, nor Tirolean, but Jungholzer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESmall-town affection aside, there is another extraordinary element about Jungholz: thanks to a legal loophole and tax technicality, the village once had the highest density of banks in the world. This El Dorado of the banking scene became Bavaria's \"off-shore\" banking capital and gave German investors lucrative tax benefits. At the height of Jungholz banking in 2008, the village's Volksbank, Sparkasse and Raiffeisenbank Reutte had more than €4bn in their vaults – significantly more than the entire Tirolean state budget at the time. Indeed, it became a sort of Alpine Wild West, with cars arriving in the dead of night piled with suitcases full of black money. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Switzerland was famous for its banking secrets, but Jungholz has the same history,\" said Hoek, who saw his guesthouse booked almost every night. \"Bagmen would arrive with suitcases handcuffed to their wrists, enter their room, lock the door and never leave until the banks opened. It happened all the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Old advertisement and logo of Jungholz Bank near a church in Jungholz","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMuch has changed since then. The EU demanded greater levels of transparency, and cross-border tax evasion was placed under greater scrutiny in 2014, putting an end to Jungholz's status as an \"offshore\" capital. In turn, the billions invested in Jungholz vanished almost overnight and the banking exodus began. Now, the investors are gone, tourism has filled the void and the banks have been repurposed. One is a self-catering apartment block, while another hosts a permanent art exhibition, with a mural painted by Thierry Noir, the first artist to paint the Berlin Wall in the 1980s. The last building is still for sale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAn unusual village, in unusual circumstances, in unusual times. Before I left, I asked Conny Lochbihler, owner of visitor shop \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\"\u003EConny's Ski Alm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, what it is about Jungholz that had kept her in this pocket kingdom for all of her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is a place where you can see everything from every point,\" she said. \"The world is often too big, but here you can never get lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-15T07:21:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Jungholz: A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","headlineShort":"A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"47.5739°","longitude":"10.4471","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","summaryShort":"Life for the locals is far from straightforward","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-14T20:25:21.429056Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e104879-c424-4cf2-87ab-587ee0abb1ea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-01T23:16:29.048528Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484335},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure","_id":"622fc34645ceed70ae09b373","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fcassidy-randall"],"bodyIntro":"A world-renowned guide has put together the most eco-friendly, self-propelled ski adventure possible, teaching travellers to lower their carbon footprint along the way.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESnowflakes gathered lightly on Greg Hill's jacketed shoulders as he broke trail on his skis, guiding our group up a mountain in British Columbia's Rogers Pass. It was February, prime time to experience this ski mecca, which lies less than 70km from the town of Revelstoke that Hill has called home for the last two and a half decades. Expounding on how our personal buying choices can make a difference in the fight against climate change, he paused to point with his ski pole at yet another dead pine tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It seems like at least a quarter of the trees up here are dead now,\" he said, explaining how worsening pine beetle outbreaks are a sign of climate change, as winters haven't been cold enough or long enough to keep them out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf it seemed like a pedantic conversation for a guided ski trip, it was intentional. This was day one of a unique new adventure; one of the most sustainable ski trips on offer right now in this era of conscious climate travel. Hill, also a professional athlete and activist known for walking the climate talk in the ski industry, offers the trips through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002F57hours.com\u002Fpremium-adventures\u002Fsustainable-backcountry-skiing-revelstoke\u002F\"\u003Ethe new site 57 Hours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that connects adventure seekers with certified guides all over the world. He tailors \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002F57hours.com\u002Fpremium-adventures\u002Fsustainable-backcountry-skiing-revelstoke\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efour-day guided ski touring\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Revelstoke's surrounding mountains complete with electric transportation, coordinates locally sourced meals and stays in greener accommodations, and – perhaps most critically – helps guests understand their own carbon footprint and teaches them how to lower it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Hill became famous for climbing and skiing two million vertical feet in a single year of ski touring, a feat that spanned 71 mountains across two hemispheres. He's set other vertical and speed records since. Along the way, though, a realisation formed: a widening gap yawned between the abundance he received from spending time in nature – joy, peace, exhilaration, balance, solitude – and how he \u003Cem\u003Eapproached\u003C\u002Fem\u003E nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btj4f2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Portrait photo of Greg Hill","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EAlthough the majority of his adventuring was human-powered ski touring, he still drove to trailheads in his diesel truck and often used a snowmobile from there. He flew to other countries to access terrain with a helicopter, staying in lodges with hot tubs and saunas and food flown in from across the globe. All of it left clouds of spent fossil fuels in his wake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, he was caught in an avalanche on a ski trip in Pakistan. He was lucky to emerge from the accident with only a broken leg, but as he lay couch-bound and healing, he couldn't escape the thought: what if he had died right then?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture\"\u003EThe Swiss village lost in Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA ski town stuck in the wrong nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDriving Canada's toughest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What would my legacy have been? What would my kids have remembered me for?\" he told me. \"I loved pushing the limits of adventure and inspiring people to follow their dreams. But there was no real care for the world in that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHoping to lead by example through the platforms he'd created as a pro athlete, Hill completely overhauled his skiing in addition to other lifestyle changes. He sold his snowmobile and started leaving his truck at home. For a stretch of time, he cycled to all of his ski objectives. But few people wanted to join him, he said, \"because who wants to bike 15km, hike for 6,000ft, ski, and bike another 15km? But there were no other real options available then.\" And that's a crucial thing he's realised, he said: people will only take action when there are accessible options to make it easier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I loved pushing the limits of adventure and inspiring people to follow their dreams","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblog.arcteryx.com\u002Felectric-greg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhen it became available, Hill bought an electric car: a two-wheel drive Chevy Bolt. The tiny hatchback is wildly out of place amidst the SUVs and trucks common to ski towns with deep snowfalls. Hill jokes that he's looking forward to the release of affordable electric trucks to match rugged mountain pursuits, but with a roof box to hold gear and careful driving on the slippery roads, he makes the Bolt work. In his 2019 film, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblog.arcteryx.com\u002Felectric-greg\u002F\"\u003EElectric Greg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, that chronicled his quest to climb and ski 100 summits without fossil fuels, he called the car \"a vehicle for the idea of adventuring sustainably\". Now, it's a key part of these new trips he's leading as a way to scale up his efforts to affect change – and give people an easy option for affecting their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btj4dc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Greg Hill guides his clients up Littel sifton in Rogers pass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen guests book this trip with Hill, he gives skiers the choice to either rent an electric car in Kelowna (the nearest airport to Revelstoke) so they can try out the experience of driving one on their own, or he'll pick them up in the Bolt. My ski touring group chose the Bolt, and on our way to Rogers Pass earlier, while expertly navigating the semi-trucks and slush on the highway, Hill explained how often he charges it (the Bolt usually gets two round trips to the pass before it needs to be plugged in) and how he installed his own electric home hookup – a simple 240-volt outlet on the outside of his house, the same that a washer and dryer needs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMidway up our climb through the snow, we stopped to fuel our own systems. We pulled out sandwiches and snacks we procured from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fterrafirmaskitchen.ca\u002F\"\u003ETerra Firma's Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a café Hill chose as the morning's meeting point; it's owned by a local farm that supplies much of its own food. It was a precursor to the next night, when Hill would facilitate what he calls a \"100-mile dinner\", with as many ingredients as possible sourced from within that radius. While we ate, our guide asked if we had done our homework.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPrior to the trip, Hill requested that we perform a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcoolclimate.berkeley.edu\u002Fcalculator\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecarbon calculation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for our normal lifestyles. Rather than be overwhelmed by how big the numbers are – \"Don't be hard on yourself, we have a large footprint as North Americans... but we also have a lot we can do about it,\" he said — the snapshot was a good starting point for where we could do better. \"The goal is to aim toward \u003Cem\u003Eprogress\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, not perfection.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have a large footprint as North Americans... but we also have a lot we can do about it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerfection in this arena on a personal level is nearly impossible; it would require sweeping systemic change to cut plastics from production, to use green energy sources across the board, to overhaul public transportation, and more. That's overwhelming, to say the least. But personal changes give us a sense of agency in the face of the climate crisis, Hill said. And added up, all our personal agencies can catalyse that sweeping change.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe rest of our climb was dedicated to some ideas for lowering our daily footprints, like weekday vegetarianism; a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ipcc.ch\u002Fsrccl\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 report by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that cutting meat, which takes more carbon to produce than vegetables and fruit, could more than halve the world population's greenhouse gas emissions. Or consumers can look into \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.energy.gov\u002Fenergysaver\u002Fbuying-clean-electricity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egreen pricing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" from their power companies, which allows people to pay a small premium to source renewable energy for their homes. And these kinds of market solutions – where people leverage the power of their dollars – can often lead to faster change than political solutions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btj4cv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man bootpacks up a couloir in the Bonney area of Rogers Pass","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd, of course, there's the fact of us opting for this kind of ski trip versus the typical carbon-heavy ski vacation. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.neheliskiing.com\u002Fcarbon-neutral-heliskiing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eday of heli-skiing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for a single person is slightly less than the carbon footprint of an economy seat on a flight from New York to Los Angeles; and the armies of snowcat machines used to groom ski resorts go through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.treehugger.com\u002Fski-resorts-and-the-environment-1203969\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efive gallons of diesel per hour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – each. Given that over the remaining days on this trip, Hill would transport skiers to other local mountains in the Bolt for full days of human-powered guided touring in the deep powder that the Revelstoke region is known for, as well as facilitate local food components for breakfast, bagged lunches, apres and dinner, there was no question we were lowering our carbon footprints in choosing this kind of ski adventure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we topped out in a powdery glade and began stripping climbing skins from skis in preparation for the descent, I asked Hill whether he thinks these sustainable adventures he's offering will catch on to become more of a trend.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You know \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Ftheobserver\u002Fcartoon\u002F2009\u002Fdec\u002F20\u002Fclimate-change-cartoon-chris-riddell\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethat cartoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of the two kids sitting on their grandfather's knee and asking him what he did in the war against climate change?\" he said by way of reply. \"I want to be able to say to my grandkids what I did. And I hope others think that, too, because we need you in this.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we skied through the forest, the cold smoke of powder marking our passage, it was easy to appreciate that slowing down and localising the way we travel might help to protect this deep heart of winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf nothing else, it's a conscious start.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fslowcomotion","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-15T10:35:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Canada's rare new skiing adventure","headlineShort":"Canada's rare new adventure","image":["p0btj4f8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"An Alpine glow on Glacier Crest in Rogers Pass","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.98317","longitude":"-118.2023","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"An Alpine glow on Glacier Crest in Rogers Pass","promoImage":["p0btj4f8"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220124-driving-canadas-toughest-road","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A world-renowned guide has put together the most eco-friendly, self-propelled ski adventure possible, teaching travellers to lower their carbon footprint along the way.","summaryShort":"It's a new brand of ski trip in a new era of conscious climate travel","tag":["tag\u002Feco-tourism","tag\u002Fsnow-skiing"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-14T22:35:33.544767Z","entity":"article","guid":"35e8b0bc-1db5-48c0-abc3-96da95f66014","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-16T01:49:17.3789Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220314-canadas-rare-new-skiing-adventure","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484333},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","_id":"621e445145ceed6b855c2245","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of the worst disasters in British maritime history, the wrecking of HMS Association led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur boat was only half a dozen miles out of St Mary's, the main island in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitislesofscilly.com\u002F\"\u003EIsles of Scilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but the sea had become a different beast entirely. The waters that lulled against the harbour walls were long gone, and as we arced around the Western Rocks – a notorious cordon of razor-sharp skerries at the very south-westerly reaches of England – the swell surged. Waves slapped against the bow as the boat keeled to and fro. The water was the colour of midnight, and I peered into the darkness for a sign of the HMS Association, one of 1,000 shipwrecks that lie splintering into the seabed around Scilly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETwo parallel reefs, much of which is submerged at high water, the Western Rocks posed a formidable threat to sailors bound for safe harbour in Tresco or St Mary's. And the names that each cluster of jagged granite has been given over the years – Inner Rags, Tearing Ledge – hint at the devastation wrought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is doubtful if any collection of rocks in the whole of the British Isles has a worse reputation,\" said Richard Larn OBE, president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshipwreckconference.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Maritime Archaeological & Shipwreck Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodreads.com\u002Fbook\u002Fshow\u002F51039678-sea-of-storms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESea of Storms: Shipwrecks of Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"This immense area of hidden danger has been the setting for the worst of the many wreck disasters on Scilly.\" None, though, have been more tragic, nor played a more significant role in history, than the sinking of the Association in the early years of the 18th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA 90-gun, second-rate English warship, HMS Association was the flagship of Sir Cloudesley Shovell, who had worked his way up from lowly cabin boy to become Admiral of the Fleet in 1705. Shovell had distinguished himself in the Nine Years' War and in early skirmishes of the War of the Spanish Succession, but after a summer spent (unsuccessfully) laying siege to the French port of Toulon, he set sail for home, departing from Gibraltar for England in late September 1707.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Peninnis lighthouse on St Mary's, Isles of Scilly","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt around 20:00 on 22 October 1707, believing they were off the coast of Brittany and heading into the English Channel, the fleet ploughed on through the darkness and straight into the Western Rocks. The Association, under the command of Captain Edward Loades, struck the Outer Gilstone rock and sank within two minutes. Three other ships – the Eagle, the Romney and the Firebrand – were also wrecked. \"The Weather being very hazy and rainy and Night coming on dark…some of them [were] upon the Rocks to the Westward of Scilly before they were aware. Of the Association not a Man was sav'd,\" reported the Daily Courant, Britain's first daily newspaper, at the time. Some 1,450 men were lost across the four ships, with only 24 survivors between them. It remains one of the worst disasters in British maritime history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It is doubtful if any collection of rocks in the whole of the British Isles has a worse reputation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESo how did the finest seamen of his age – as famous in his day as Lord Nelson was in his, according to Larn – get so completely, and catastrophically, lost? Foul weather didn't help, nor did the low-lying nature of the Scillies and their fringing reefs, which blend into the water's surface at night and in poor visibility. Analysis of the log books from the ships that did make it back to London also revealed the fleet's officers were using charts that misplaced the Isles of Scilly eight nautical miles to the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll these issues were compounded by the real problem – that in the early 18th Century, there was no accurate way of determining a ship's exact longitude (its east–west position) at sea. Sailors used a process called \"dead reckoning\", measuring speed, direction and distance to estimate their location. But it was an educated guess at best. Shovell and his officers knew they were aligned with the English Channel but could never have known which side of the Scillies they were.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth\"\u003EBritain’s Mediterranean-like isles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that birthed a nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210523-lundy-the-tiny-isle-with-a-wild-lawless-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny isle with a wild, lawless past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELosing the Admiral of the Fleet and so many men alongside him, \"stirred public opinion [and] was quoted as an illustration of the urgent need of a means to find longitude at sea,\" wrote curator Lieutenant-Commander David Waters in the catalogue for 4 Steps to Longitude, an exhibition at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Fnational-maritime-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Maritime Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 1962. Larn goes a step further, believing that parliament introduced the Longitude Act of 1714 as a direct result of the disaster. The act offered a reward – the Longitude Prize – of £20,000 to whoever could produce a solution that was \"practicable and useful at sea\". Sir Isaac Newton and Edmond Halley (of comet fame) set their minds to the task, but the problem was eventually solved by a carpenter-turned-clockmaker from Yorkshire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt took John Harrison 25 years and four attempts, but in 1759 he invented a marine chronometer that allowed a ship to calculate its longitude by comparing the difference in local time at sea with the time in Greenwich. His prize-winning pocket watch, known as H4, overcame the challenging conditions on board – the issues of motion and variation in temperature – and offered the stability required.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"H4 works in principle just like any other mechanical watch,\" explained Emily Akkermans, curator of time at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal Observatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Greenwich, London. \"But the difference is the level of precision [Harrison] achieved by using a 'high energy' balance that would beat faster than the smaller and lighter ones found in traditional watches.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"H4 maritime timekeeper pocket watch by John Harrison","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tresco.co.uk\u002Fthe-island\u002Fvalhalla-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIn a four-month test voyage from Portsmouth to Jamaica, H4 was found to be just 1 minute and 54 seconds out. And yet the Longitude Board refused to fully recognise Harrison's achievement and he never received the full amount of prize money he was owed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Association, meanwhile, still lay scattered beneath the Outer Gilstone, as she would for another 200 years. In 1963, Larn, then a Chief Petty Officer First Class in the Royal Navy, initiated the search for the wreck when he approached an admiral to ask if he could borrow a minesweeper. It took Larn and a team of divers from the Naval Air Command Sub Aqua Club (NACSAC) three years to find the Association, but on 4 July 1967 they discovered a bronze cannon and gold coins on the Gilstone Ledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn just six weeks, they raised several French cannons from the seabed – trophies from the War of the Spanish Succession (one of which they donated to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tresco.co.uk\u002Fthe-island\u002Fvalhalla-museum\"\u003EValhalla Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Tresco) – along with gold and silver coins, pewter plates and a phenomenal assortment of artefacts, from buckles and buttons to candlesticks and combs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWord quickly got out, though, and amateur salvagers descended on the Scillies. \"Anybody with a diving cylinder and a bedroll turned up here,\" Larn told me. \"There was nothing to stop anybody from looting the wreck of the Association after we left, and that's exactly what happened. Coins were so plentiful that people were paying for pints in the pub with them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo official record was ever made of what was hauled out of the sea, and within months the findings were dispersed across the globe. A silver plate inscribed with Sir Cloudesley Shovell's coat of arms was sold to Rochester Town Hall where the admiral had served as local MP; artefacts from the wreck now decorate a pub in Penzance; and fragments of the ship's bell were auctioned off to private collectors in the United States.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stone memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell at Porthellick Cove","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"What happened on the Association was a national disgrace,\" said Larn, who was moved to petition his local MP to consider a bill to protect historic wrecks – the Mary Rose had recently been discovered in the Solent and Larn feared her treasures would go the same way if nothing was done. The Protection of Wrecks Act was passed in 1973, a second act of parliament, more than 250 years after the first, which safeguarded wrecks from unauthorised interference. There are currently 24 protected wrecks in UK waters, three of which lie off the Scillies; the Association, whose wreck site still holds scores of iron cannon, is one of them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile visitors can't access the wreck site itself, they can see some of the items that have been salvaged from the Association at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iosmuseum.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsles of Scilly Museum's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shipwreck collection, which includes a cannon from the ship and what is believed to be Sir Cloudesley Shovel's crumpled \"po\" (or potty).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe museum was forced to close in June 2019 when its historical home was deemed unsafe, and the collection is currently spread across the Town Hall on St Mary's and in interim pop-up exhibitions on the off-islands of St Martin's, Tresco, Bryher and St Agnes – in hotels, shops, community halls and even an old telephone box. \"We're trying to reconnect object to place, and to keep the museum alive while we fundraise for a new home,\" said Kate Hale, the museum's curator, of her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iosmuseum.org\u002Fmuseum-on-the-move\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum on the Move project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Hale had been in the job for just two months when the museum closed overnight; lockdown was in full swing, so Covid restrictions meant she had to work on her own, in an unlit basement, wrapping up 10,000 objects from the museum's archive by torchlight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What happened on the Association was a national disgrace","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVisitors can also experience the wreck via the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=uk.co.iosmuseumcompanions.ioscompanion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWalking Companion app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also created by Hale and her team and developed as part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coastaltimetripping.com\u002Fisles-of-scilly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoastal Timetripping\u003C\u002Fa\u003E project. The mobile app automatically activates when you're within range of a nearby shipwreck and allows visitors to explore, via augmented reality, the remains of the Association.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDown among the yellow-horned poppies on Porth Hellick, for example, seven miles from the site of the wreck, a memorial marks the spot where Sir Cloudesley Shovell's body was \"flung on the shoar and buried with others in the sands\". He had been washed up here with his two stepsons, his captain and his pet greyhound, Mumper. Stroll around the cove and the app will pop with paintings of the Association, images from the Isle of Scilly Museum's archives and 3D models of the ship's bell. A local theatre group reads out a poem depicting events on the night of 22 October 1707 by the Scillonian poet Robert Maybee, and Cornish folk group Dalla sing a haunting ballad covering the legend of the wreck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd out past the cove, beyond the island of St Mary's, the ocean continues to rush and rage around the Western Rocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Boats on the shore of St Mary's, Isles of Scilly","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-30T05:04:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The British shipwreck that changed the world","headlineShort":"The shipwreck that changed the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Flowers and ocean from St Marys, Isles of Scilly","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.9250","longitude":"6.2987","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Flowers and ocean from St Marys, Isles of Scilly","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the worst disasters in British maritime history, the wrecking of HMS Association led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude.","summaryShort":"It led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-29T22:05:03.797779Z","entity":"article","guid":"7cd56522-04db-4db4-a012-fd05695df5f1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:45.229465Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484336},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","_id":"621e444e45ceed67583ff9f3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While Covid-19 might be a major concern for the Antarctic tourist industry, it could be good news for the region itself.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-12T22:09:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What will happen to the 7th continent?","headlineShort":"What will happen to the 7th continent?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-65.9690075","longitude":"-53.0801546","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Covid-19 might be a major concern for the Antarctic tourist industry, it could be good news for the region itself.","summaryShort":"“We need to think about the future we want to see”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:56:13.331955Z","entity":"article","guid":"00837e29-d7ef-467d-abea-9a3fe08f1ca4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:16:43.835608Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484336},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","_id":"621e445a45ceed64d82931fe","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EScattered across the Arabian Sea, south-west of Sri Lanka and India, the Maldives present the face of a dreamy, tropical idyll to travellers from all over the world, who fly in to savour picture-perfect coral atolls fringed with white sand, luxurious resorts and world-class water sport.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps no other nation faces an environmental threat quite like the Maldives. Its luxury beach resorts may be world-famous, but with more than 80% of its scattered 1,200 islands less than 1m above sea level, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fsouth_asia\u002F3930765.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erising oceans threaten its very existence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth and therefore need to adapt,” said the country’s vice president Mohammed Waheed Hassan in a 2010 World Bank \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Ffeature\u002F2010\u002F04\u002F06\u002Fclimate-change-in-the-maldives\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that warned how, at current predicted rates of sea level rise, all of the Maldives’ around 200 natural inhabited islands could be submerged by 2100.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Maldivians are determined to fight back to preserve their existence. Back in 2008, then-president Mohamed Nasheed made global headlines by announcing a plan to buy land elsewhere so his citizens could relocate should islands become submerged. That plan gave way to considering whether it might be best to work with the sea rather than against it, by building floating urban developments – as has been done \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-30412913\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein cities like Amsterdam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, the Maldives turned to a different form of geo-engineering: creating a 21st-Century city, dubbed the “City of Hope”, on a new, artificial island christened Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPre-Covid, curious tourists could visit the new island city as it takes shape around 8km from the capital city of Malé by hopping on a 20-minute bus from the airport over the bridge. Yet, few who come to the Maldives on short luxurious breaks will think about the pragmatic social issues Hulhumalé aims to solve. With more than 500,000 inhabitants scattered across the archipelago, delivery of services is one resource-draining logistical nightmare. Lack of job opportunities is another, driving youth unemployment to more than 15%, according to a 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fcountry\u002Fmaldives\u002Foverview\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the World Bank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as the long-term threat of submersion, increasing coastal erosion also threatens the 70% of infrastructure – homes, other buildings and utilities – located within 100m of present shorelines. There’s also worries over encroaching salty seas tainting precious fresh water sources, plus risks posed by unpredictable natural disasters, like the 2004 tsunami that killed more than 100 people in the Maldives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“After the 2004 tsunami, a programme for enhancing resiliency through safer islands was introduced,” explained Areen Ahmed, director of business development at the Housing Development Corporation (HDC) that oversees the City of Hope. “Hulhumalé is being developed through careful considerations of climate change in its architecture and communities.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOngoing land reclamation using millions of cubic metres of sand pumped from the seabed has raised the new island more than 2m above sea level, while the island’s growing City of Hope is seen as a vital new settlement to relieve the over-crowding that currently blights Malé, where more than 130,000 people cram into 1 square mile (just more than 2.5 sq km).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200628-is-the-future-of-travel-underwater\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs the future of travel underwater?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180905-nanjings-salted-duck-a-dish-fit-for-royaltyhttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150526-a-maldives-you-can-actually-afford\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Maldives you can actually afford\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200614-ascension-island-the-island-with-a-key-to-our-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island with a key to our future\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth,” said Kate Philpot, who worked as a science officer in the Maldives, researching reef fish for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.korallionlab.com\u002Fkorallion-lab\u002Fabout-us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorallion Lab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E marine station, before becoming senior ecologist at UK-based consultancy Ecology By Design.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhase one of Hulhumalé’s land reclamation, consisting of 188 hectares, began in 1997 and was completed in 2002. Two years later, the island celebrated the arrival of its first 1,000 residents. Further reclamation of 244 hectares of land was completed in 2015, and by late 2019, more than 50,000 people were living on Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut ambitions for Hulhumalé are far greater, eventually envisioned as hosting up to 240,000 people in well-designed style by the mid-2020s. This vision includes a diverse mix of quality housing, new employment opportunities plus open recreational space three times larger per person than Malé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Ahmed, in contrast to the unplanned and over-crowded nature of Malé, Hulhumalé was designed with many green urban planning initiatives. “Buildings are oriented north-south to reduce heat gain and improve thermal comfort. Streets are designed to optimise wind penetration, reducing reliance on air conditioning. And schools, mosques and neighbourhood parks are within 100-200m walking distance of residential developments, reducing car use.” Electric buses and bicycle lanes are also part of the new city landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVaried housing needs are also being catered for. “Hulhumalé comprises diverse housing projects: mid-range, luxury and social housing,” said Ahmed. “Sixty percent of mid-range housing units have to be sold under the pricing ceiling set by HDC.” Affordable social housing is available for specific groups, including single women and those affected by displacement and disasters. There has been detailed consultation to ensure housing and the wider built environment is accessible to those with disabilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEnviable digital infrastructure proposals complement green initiatives and social planning, said Ahmed, who describes Hulhumalé as “Asia’s first 100% gigabit-enabled smart city”, with fast digital access for residents based on widespread optical fibre technology known as GPON (Gigabit Passive Optical Networks).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The ultimate benefit of building a Smart City from scratch is that Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives,” said Professor Hassan Ugail, a Maldivian computer scientist who is helping to make Hulhumalé a smart city, alongside his work as director of the Centre for Visual Computing at the UK’s University of Bradford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHulhumalé aims to tick boxes with regard to sustainable urban development too, including drawing around a third of its energy from solar power and harvesting rainwater to boost water security. Yet isn’t the very act of building an artificial island something harmful to the environment – especially in a place famed for coral reefs and pristine white-sand shores?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Belgian company Dredging International completed the 244-hectare expansion of the island in 2015, the operation required sucking around six million cubic metres of sand from the surrounding seabed to then transport and pump onto Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Land reclamation work is particularly problematic,” said Dr Holly East from Northumbria University’s Department of Geography and Environmental Sciences, an expert in coral reef islands with experience conducting research in the Maldives. “Not only can it destroy coral reefs, but [it] also creates vast plumes of sediment that travel to other reef platforms. Sediment smother[s] corals and blocks out sunlight, impacting their capacity to feed, grow and reproduce.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut with its steadily growing population, land reclamation has become a simple fact of Maldivian life, with existing coral reef providing the obvious foundation. “Efforts have been made to reduce impacts of the development of Hulhumalé, including translocation of some corals,” said Philpot. “However, it can take a long time for them to become established elsewhere – and there is often a poor success rate.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet with her years of experience in the Maldives, Philpot is well aware of competing demands. Tourists may come and go, but local people need land to live on and jobs. She also makes the rather ironic observation that Hulhumalé is rising in an area that has already, to some extent, been spoiled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Construction is likely to be less damaging than elsewhere in the Maldives,” she said. “It seems preferable to develop an area with relatively high levels of boat traffic and pollution compared to anywhere else within the Maldives that remains relatively unspoilt.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn this view, she is backed by the World Bank’s 2020 report, which notes “the Greater Malé Region, particularly in Hulhumalé, do not have significant natural habitats – and the coral reefs are mostly degraded”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWaste disposal remains a key issue – both in terms of construction waste for Hulhumalé, as well as waste from its growing city of inhabitants. “Much of the waste has been transported and stored in the purpose-built island of Thilafushi,” explained Philpot wryly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaldivian authorities counter the idea that this is basically a tropical rubbish dump, albeit rather vaguely. “All measures to minimise the impact of construction on the environment are monitored by the Environment Protection Agency (EPA) of the Maldives,” Ahmed told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Hulhumalé is being fashioned primarily to improve the lives of Maldivians, its City of Hope also aims to be a beacon for a new cohort of tourists interested in more than just lying in a beachside resort bubble. A 2018 World Finance \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldfinance.com\u002Finfrastructure-investment\u002Fhousing-development-corporation-bringing-city-of-hulhumale-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, highlights the potential for medical and sports tourism tied into upcoming projects such as the Maldives’ first multi-specialist hospital, water theme park and yacht marina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhilpot also hopes the dreams driving Hulhumalé will extend to a greater appreciation of their surroundings by the next generation of Maldivians. “I taught coral ecology classes to Maldivian children between [the ages of] 14 and 17 – and more than half my class had never put their faces in the water with a snorkel on,” she said. “Their amazement at what they saw was so exciting – but also sad, that they lived so close to the sea but never got the opportunity to experience being underwater. Perhaps with more direct education aimed at marine biology there would be more interest in preserving and protecting the marine ecosystem amongst the young.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERather than just building a City of Hope, in other words, the people of the Maldives are taking an island-building path into the future that could make the Maldives a Nation of Hope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-world-of-tomorrow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World of Tomorrow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that visits ingenious communities around the world that are adapting to environmental change or who are finding new ways to live sustainably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-10T23:02:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A new island of hope rising from the Indian Ocean","headlineShort":"The nation being swallowed by the sea","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","summaryShort":"One of the most vulnerable countries on Earth has had to adapt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:54:51.221398Z","entity":"article","guid":"844ca032-8f8f-43b8-9da0-0d25a0a21e5d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:15:28.561903Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484336},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","_id":"622df8d545ceed7aa3046eb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson"],"bodyIntro":"Not only is Deception Island littered with lore and history, it's also one of the only places on the planet where ships can sail directly into the centre of a submerged caldera.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first deception happened as I sailed down the blustery Bransfield Strait and saw an icy outcrop rising out of the steely-blue waters. Deception Island initially had fooled me into thinking it was just like all the other South Shetland Islands off the northern coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen, like some foggy austral mirage, a small 500m-wide slit appeared in the cliffs of its south-eastern corner, and my ship, the Magellan Explorer, slipped through. The vessel squeezed into a rocky gap known as Neptune's Bellows and emerged in the peaceful waters of an interior horseshoe-shaped harbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat harbour, known as Port Foster, proved to be the next deception – for it wasn't actually a harbour at all. At least, not really. Deception Island is an alias for an active volcano, one of just two in Antarctica, and Port Foster is its flooded caldera, formed by a violent eruption some 10,000 years ago. True to its name, which was earned for these very reasons, nothing on Deception Island is quite what it seems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI took a bumpy Zodiac ride through the caldera out to Whalers Bay, a sheltered cove with a black-sand beach that released magma-heated steam into the frigid air (when I dug a small hole in the sand, I found water as warm as afternoon tea). That scalding beach had a look of abandonment, with rusted ruins and scattered debris, as if something grave had happened there, as if it had stories to tell. In a continent largely bereft of manmade artefacts, the beach was, quite plainly, littered with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswj3s"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Norwegian Aktieselskabet Hektor whaling station, Deception Island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDeception Island soon revealed itself to be something of a time capsule of Antarctica's two centuries of human history, holding tales of explorers and whalers, scientists and dreamers. Like a polar Pompeii, it was virtually abandoned overnight with buildings now frozen in a bygone era. Other relics attest to its days as a processing centre for Antarctic wildlife. But in one of the greatest deceptions of all, this island once known for the pillaging of animals was now, in 2022, absolutely teeming with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, that's exactly how it was when humans first sailed this way. Nigel Milius, a polar historian with expedition cruise company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antarctica21.com\u002F\"\u003EAntarctica21\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me as we toured Whalers Bay together that sealers were some of the first to chart the South Shetland Islands following their discovery in 1819 by the English captain William Smith. The sealers were later eclipsed by whalers, who arrived in floating factory ships.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that changed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat will happen to the seventh continent?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation being swallowed by the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1912, Norwegians built Antarctica's only land-based commercial whaling station on Deception Island, which operated here until 1931 when some species, including the blue whale, were hunted almost to extinction. There could have been up to 500 people living on Deception Island at the height of summer operations, Milius said, though only a skeleton crew would brave the long, lightless winters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we walked past the rusty remains of hulking old digesters used for whale blubber, Milius shared an account of a particularly lively New Year's celebration in 1928 that seemed to typify life in Antarctica at the time. Two men – lonely, laddish and hopped up on alcohol – climbed atop a dead sperm whale that had been swelling with gas due to the heat of the beach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the whalers thrust his long knife into this veritable whale-balloon, which promptly exploded, hurling both men into the harbour, where they had to be rescued by some of the few sober observers,\" Milius said, reading a piece of paper with a quote from the visiting Australian military pilot Hubert Wilkins. \"Meanwhile, two other whalers had decided to ignite an explosives barge that was moored to the beach [which] contained 65 tonnes of black powder and other combustibles.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhzq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Chinstrap penguin colony on Deception Island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bas.ac.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fabout-bas\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish-research-stations-and-refuges\u002Fdeception-island-b\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOf course, the biggest explosions on Deception Island have been all natural. The first historical records of volcanic eruptions here were between 1839 and 1842, though it was the eruption in 1967 that proved the most destructive. That blast buried Chile's Aguirre Cerda research base in ash and rock just north of Whalers Bay at Pendulum Cove; Milius said it's rumoured to have the best wine cellar in Antarctica (though the well-aged bottles are now buried in mud and ash). The 1967 eruption also damaged a British base (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bas.ac.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fabout-bas\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish-research-stations-and-refuges\u002Fdeception-island-b\u002F\"\u003EStation B\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) that the Royal Navy established in 1944 on the site of the abandoned whaling station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Chileans escaped this dramatic spectacle unharmed, but never returned. The Brits did, only to face a second eruption two years later. In a panic, they climbed the rocky outer edge of the caldera, attempting to flee to the other side. \"By the time they got up onto the ridge, there was quite the fireworks display,\" Milius said. \"So, they went back down to the base only to find out that some of it had actually moved a bit down the beach toward the water's edge, which must have been a little startling to say the least.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe shock of that experience saw the Brits follow Chile's lead and abandon their post here in 1969, which remains in situ to this day, sprawled across a 650m stretch of Whalers Bay. Mud flows from the 1969 eruption destroyed many buildings and engulfed the whalers' graveyard, which held 35 tombs. Yet, other buildings remain. The old accommodation block, Biscoe House, sits back from the beach with a slump in its middle, pockets of snow now gathering next to old desks and rusted ovens. Nearby are rotting whaleboats, timber barrels and a scattering of sun-bleached whalebones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also an old aircraft hangar on the far end of the beach, which recalls the island's aeronautical history. In 1928, the Australian pilot Wilkins took off in a Lockheed Vega 1 monoplane from a beach airstrip here on the first powered flight in Antarctica, which was funded by American publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhz4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Biscoe House, Deception Island, Antarctica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fprotocol.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOf course, all of these structures may disappear one day when the volcano erupts again (both Spain and Argentina operate summer-only stations to monitor seismic activity). Yet, the question remains: should they even be here?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"An interesting debate to me,\" Milius shared, \"is what's history, what's rubbish and who decides?\" The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fprotocol.html\"\u003EMadrid Protocol of 1991\u003C\u002Fa\u003E implored all nations in the Antarctic Treaty (which regulates international relations here) to tidy up their debris left over two centuries. Clean-up operations that year did remove fuel, batteries and other hazardous waste, but there seems to be a collective understanding among the nations that have planted flags on Deception Island that the rest is not rubbish but rather a museum-worthy set piece, a reminder of the Antarctic story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat afternoon, the Magellan Explorer squeezed back through Neptune's Bellows and skirted east to Baily Head, a small promontory on the outer edge of Deception Island where the swells are normally so large that a boat landing is impossible. It's here, more than anywhere else, that you can see the future of life on Deception Island, as well as the lasting legacy of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fantarctictreaty.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Antarctic Treaty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which protects the seventh continent as a place for peace and science.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"South Shetlands is the heart of the chinstrap population throughout the globe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBaily Head is home to anywhere from 50,000 to 100,000 breeding pairs of chinstrap penguins, explained Milius' wife, Antarctic naturalist Wendy Hare, as birds with thin black neck bands waddled down \"highways\" linking a vast black-sand beach with rocky interior nesting sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"South Shetlands is the heart of the chinstrap population throughout the globe because this is a place that's very rich in krill at the time of the year when the chinstraps need to breed, which is the very brief Antarctic summer,\" Hare explained. \"In Deception, they can use whole hillsides because it's relatively snow-free.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhyt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rocky cliffs at Deception Island, Antarctica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBaily Head is now the largest penguin colony on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula. It's a place where birds in dinner jackets belly-surf out of sub-zero waters and waddle up perilous slopes tinted green with algae. \"It's just an awesome sight with so many birds as far as the eye can see,\" Hare enthused. \"There are chinstrap penguins to the heavens, to where the landscape disappears into the sky.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis massive concentration lures other birds, too, including snowy sheathbills and brown skuas who prowl the penguin colony in search of unattended eggs. The cliff edges nearby also hide Cape and storm petrels, while the beach holds several types of pinnipeds, including doe-eyed Weddell seals and big-nosed elephant seals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a vision of Antarctica far removed from the one found back at Whalers Bay, the site of so much pillaging. And yet, it feels rather fitting. It helps complete a whirlwind tour through the annals of Earth's final frontier – a story that this strange speck of fire and ice tells so well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-13T13:58:50.555Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Antarctica's volatile 'Deception Island'","headlineShort":"The Antarctic ghost town left in ruins","image":["p0bswj3v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-62.94093","longitude":"-60.555375","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bswj3s"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not only is Deception Island littered with lore and history, it's also one of the only places on the planet where ships can sail directly into the centre of a submerged caldera.","summaryShort":"Nothing on Deception Island is quite what it seems","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-13T13:59:31.415394Z","entity":"article","guid":"6afa8be0-5a0c-4626-933c-3681b3561842","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:14:24.929372Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fantarctica"],"destinationStat":"antarctica","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484335},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"621e449d45ceed1be826569c","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220318071120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220318071120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484337},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","_id":"621e445345ceed69f346ce39","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's early. Fingers of sunlight are only just starting to creep along the streets of Valencia's Old Town, but the stalls inside the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercadocentralvalencia.es\u002F\"\u003EMercado Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are doing a brisk trade already. There's a queue at the charcuterie, and the man behind the counter is slicing wafer-thin strips of \u003Cem\u003Ejamón serrano\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in double time. He zips from one customer to the next, ducking between stocky legs of ham that hang from the front of his stall like fatty windchimes. In the seafood section, tuna, sea bream, anchovies and huge pink langoustines glisten in the ice. One stall here specialises in snails; another sells only saffron.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong them all, taking pride of place at the heart of the Mercado Central, are the fruit and vegetables – plump, richly coloured and all grown in La Huerta (L'Horta in Valencian), a patchwork of neat market gardens that fan out for 28 sq km around the city. Encarna Folgado, owner of Frutas y Verduras Folgado, has been running a stall here for more than 45 years, buying seasonal vegetables direct from the farmers who work in La Huerta's fields. If you need to buy the beans used in a traditional paella Valenciana, you come to Folgado.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The \u003Cem\u003Eferraúra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E have to have a bright green colour, but not too intense,\" she tells me, referring to the horseshoe-shaped beans that are almost spilling out of their crate. The \u003Cem\u003Erochet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a red and green bean, \"has to be a few centimetres wider and thicker, but only a little bit\". And as for butterbeans, which I can see bulging through their cases, \"the best (ones) to eat are when they begin to turn from yellow to green\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlongside the beans are spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers, fat garlic bulbs and spring onions the size of truncheons. They're all part of an incredible bounty of produce that is grown in La Huerta each year, despite the fact that its fields enclose Spain's third-largest city. The secret is an ingenious maze of channels, ditches, weirs and floodgates invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Green fields and farmsteads in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EEight main irrigation channels, or \u003Cem\u003Eacequías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, funnel water from the River Turia, which is then carried – by gravity – along a series of smaller branches, which distribute the water to thousands of tiny plots across the fields. The amount of water each plot receives isn't measured in terms of volume but rather on how well the river is flowing. The unit, known as a \u003Cem\u003Efila\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (from the Arabic word meaning \"thread\"), represents an individual's right to a proportion of the water over a period of time; the irrigation cycle usually lasts a week, but when the river's level is low, the cycle is extended.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's an incredibly efficient system. Each plot receives the same access to water for the same amount of time, no matter where they are in the mosaic, and there are no water shortages, even in periods of drought. And the result is an incredibly diverse crop yield. Centuries-old local rice varieties grow in the fields around Lake Albufera, south of the city, while unique species like \u003Cem\u003Echufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or tiger nuts (which are used to make the ice-cold milky Valencian drink of \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), are sown in the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA luxury resort from 1,500 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe technology that powered the Inca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The system of water management adopted here [means that] aubergines, oranges, artichokes and olive trees can all co-exist together,\" said Clelia Maria Puzzo of the United Nations' Food & Agriculture Organization (FAO), which added La Huerta to their list of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fnews\u002Fstory\u002Fen\u002Fitem\u002F1252906\u002Ficode\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (GIAHS) in November 2019. \"A variety of crops were imported from Asia and America hundreds of years ago, but they adapted perfectly because of this irrigation system.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe whole process is held together by a unique social organisation that has been governing La Huerta for more than 1,000 years. The \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftribunaldelasaguas.org\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de la València\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E, or Water Court of the Plains of Valencia, was established around 960 CE and as such is officially the world's oldest judicial body. The tribunal is made up of eight farmers, elected representatives of the communities that work off each of the main irrigation channels, who meet to settle disputes outside the doorway of Valencia Cathedral every Thursday at noon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Water Tribunal meeting with crowds of people watching","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's quite a sight, with the men – they are all men – dressed in black smocks and seated in a semi-circle of leather-topped wooden chairs, where they enforce the rules of distribution. Water is the only issue up for debate, and according to María José Olmos Rodrigo, the Tribunal's secretary, the defendants are usually hauled before the court because \"they've flooded a neighbour's field, taken water out of turn or haven't maintained their section of irrigation ditch correctly\". Proceedings are in Valencian and are ruthlessly quick; all decisions are final.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the Tribunal has been an ever-present aspect of the system, the use of the land itself has evolved over time. \"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta,\" said Miquel Minguet, CEO of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\"\u003EHorta Viva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E. \"We adapt the crops to the times, we change a lot, very often, just to survive.\" His company reflects this mentality, moving from farming a small organic garden near Alboraya, north of the city, to organising tomato tastings in La Huerta and running agritours around the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis culture of adaptation – in La Huerta's case, an intervention that has not only conserved but remarkably improved the existing conditions, according to FAO’s Puzzo – is seen as a potential sustainable solution to modern farming problems, and since July 2019, Valencia has been home to the \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcemas.global\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Centre for Sustainable Urban Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (CEMAS), an initiative set up with the aim of ensuring sustainable food for future generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Farmer Tony Montoliu cooking paella","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Production in La Huerta is basically intended for self-consumption and the local market,\" said Vicente Domingo, director of CEMAS. \"Thanks to its unique structure, it has managed to survive over the centuries with the efforts of generation upon generation of farmers that have preserved this land despite the pressure of urbanisation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose farmers include Tony Montoliu, who has worked a plot bordering the town of Meliana, in the north of La Huerta, since he was 12 years old. Montoliu was cultivating crops like okra and Chinese cabbage long before they became popular here and has a history of recovering seeds from species like the \u003Cem\u003Ecacau del collaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a highly regarded local peanut. \"Life as a farmer is about discovery,\" he said. \"You learn more every day because the field and the land are constantly talking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMontoliu grows what he needs for his restaurant, a traditional \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, one of the white-walled, gable-roofed thatched houses that you see dotted among the fields of La Huerta. Diners pick their own vegetables and Montoliu cooks what's required – often as part of a rabbit and chicken paella, his star dish – and then gives them any surplus to take home. It's the epitome of slow food, or \"zero metres\", as he calls it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost farmers, though, sell what they can't eat themselves at the Tira de Comptar, a wholesale market that is almost as old as the Tribunal de Aguas; or to Folgado and the other fruit and vegetable sellers in the Mercado Central, unfailingly furnishing their stalls with spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers and fat garlic bulbs. And horseshoe-shaped \u003Cem\u003Eferraura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beans – a bright green colour, but not too intense.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rows of vegetables in the Mercado Central, Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-21T23:01:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's ingenious water maze","headlineShort":"An ingenious way to feed a city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","summaryShort":"It was invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-20T23:04:53.984346Z","entity":"article","guid":"98138e27-6def-42ad-9218-a914acf0cdb1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:12.351475Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484338},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","_id":"621e445645ceed6b69086df6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's easy to swallow, so Egyptian mothers feed their babies on it after nursing,\" remarked Emad Farag, an employee at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com.au\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fcaixr-the-st-regis-cairo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe St. Regis Cairo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as I slurped another spoonful of the mysterious moss-coloured soup. Of all the things I'd imagined I'd be dining on in Cairo's swankiest new hotel, \"posh baby food\" was not it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this uniquely gummy concoction \u003Cem\u003Eis no ordinary baby food. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPronounced \"mo-lo-h-i-a\", but spelt innumerable ways, the unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers. Originating from the word \u003Cem\u003Emulukia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"that which belongs to the royals\", legend has it that a healing soup made from the molokhia plant nursed an Egyptian ruler back to health in the 10th Century. And so, a stew worthy of pharaohs was born, and a royal veggie was crowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far back as you can trace the roots, people ate what was local, and what is local along the Nile is molokhia,\" food historian-cum-food health writer Michelle Berriedale-Johnson said. To this day, 95% of Egyptians live along the fabled river's life-giving banks and arc-shaped delta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They were eating \u003Cem\u003Eful \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty fava bean stew) and molokhia in pharaonic times, and they're eatingful and molokhia now, because that's what grows and what suits their diet and the climate,\" Berriedale-Johnson continued. \"You'll get leaves in some of the tomb paintings,\" she said of the saw-toothed leaf vegetable that belongs to the mallow family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.ch\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FTreasure_Trove_of_Benefits_and_Variety_a.html?id=fIJ1DwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&hl=en&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author Nawal Nasrallah writes: \"The ancient Egyptians left no culinary recipes, but food remains from their tombs and coffin murals, that depict baking and other food-related activities, testify to the sophisticated level of their cuisine… These depictions also reveal the abundance of their produce such as Jew's mallow (mulukhiyya).\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its plentiful supply, molokhia wasn't always available to the masses. According to folklore, the Caliph of Cairo (one of Egypt's rulers from the 10th Century Fatimid dynasty) outlawed consumption of the viscous soup because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect on women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The molokhia plant grows along the Nile is sold at markets in Egypt","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo longer the preserve of pharaohs, these days molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen. While the official national dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekoshary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a vegetarian medley of rice, chickpeas, macaroni and lentils) most Egyptians consider molokhia to be the country's emblematic meal. The earthy and grassy flavoured at-home dish is ordinarily eaten in the evening – paired with rice, bread or meat. However, some purists (and children) will consume molokhia neat, as a lunchtime soup. It's also a regular fixture on the menus of no-frills Egyptian restaurants like Cairo's El Prince on Talaat Harb Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not an expensive vegetable,\" Farag said. \"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor.\" In Aswan's Sharia as-Souq, I queued alongside a construction worker, bank manager and taxi driver to buy bunches of it from a rusty wheelbarrow manned by Mahmoud. The 15-year-old market vendor told me he sells 110 EGP ($7) of molokhia daily, harvested on his family's one-hectare plot in nearby \u003Cem\u003EAbu El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReesh.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EThe world's best falafel?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170323-the-deadly-dish-people-love-to-eat\"\u003EThe deadly dish people love to eat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuckier stallholders get to shelter from the stifling sun under rainbow parasols lining the bazaar's seven blocks, which run parallel to the Nile. I followed my nose to Al Reda spice store on Saad Zaghloul Street, where burlap sacks overflowed with dried hibiscus flowers, cumin and dried molokhia. The store's third-generation owner Moustafa Mohammed told me that while his ancestors made\u003Cem\u003Emolokhia nashfa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which uses dried versus fresh leaves, he mops up his molokhia with baladi (Egypt's ancient answer to pita).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner","imageOrientation":"portrait","pullQuote":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner\np09r4dc2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamily traditions and geography dictate how and what is eaten with molokhia. In coastal cities like Alexandria, locals devour \u003Cem\u003Emolokhia bel gambary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with shrimps. Meanwhile, in the country's rural hinterland, it's paired with poached rabbit – a meat of the privileged few in ancient Egypt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETarek Helmy – a semi-retired consultant from Cairo – folds the green gloop into rice, as his father did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even the eating of molokhia can be different from one house to another,\" Helmy told me over a lavish lunch at his home in a gated community on Cairo's fringes. The invitation came about after a serendipitous meeting with one of Helmy's close friends in Luxor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelmy is one of a growing number of upper middle-class Egyptians who've traded Cairo's relentless din and dust for greened suburbia. Despite having deep pockets, he still delights in eating the slimy soup twice a week. \"Good molokhia sticks to the rice rather than separating into a watery pool on the plate,\" he explained. \"I even flew my mother over to Dubai, when I lived there, to teach my cook how to make molokhia!\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The makhrata, a mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping into Helmy's spotless kitchen, I watched as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a \u003Cem\u003Emakhrata, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It's a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia's uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who can stomach the slime, their gut and waistline will thank them later. \"It (molokhia) has all kinds of good digestive virtues,\" Berriedale-Johnson said. A recent study published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874120301756\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Ethnopharmacology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals that its leaves can even prevent gut inflammation and obesity. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA superfood without the cult following or jacked-up prices, molokhia is packed with Vitamin C, E, potassium, iron and fibre. \"It [molokhia] also contains certain antioxidant carotenoids and antioxidant elements, making a well-rounded and highly beneficial addition to your diet,\" Cairo-based child nutritionist Mai Amer told me of the nutritional powerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarek Helmy (here, with a friend) eats molokhia twice a week with rice","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the kitchen, I joined Tarek over a sublime-smelling stove. \"If you hear the \u003Cem\u003Etsas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sizzle), you're doing it right,\" he said, ladling the molokhia into a simmering pan of garlic, ground coriander and melted ghee. \"I add in some tomato for tartness and sweetness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like molokhia's regional variations, chefs have their own riffs on the recipe. Mohammed Fatih, a chef at Aswan's Makka Restaurant (located on Abtal el Tahrir Street) revealed, \"My secret is to cook a broth base made with bones from the inside of a cow's tail and simmer it for three hours.\" The freshly-minced molokhia is then slowly added to the broth. Meanwhile, Luxor-born head chef Hussein Mustafa (who works on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanctuaryretreats.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanctuary Retreat's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E trio of luxury Nile river yachts) asserts the importance of provenance. \"The best molokhia is grown amongst sugar cane fields. That's why molokhia is better in the south (of Egypt) than the north.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you hear the tsas (a sizzle), you're doing it right","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFayoum, which lies 100km south-west of Cairo in Middle Egypt is a lush oasis, where desert dunes give way to swaying palms, natural sulphur springs and endless green fields. Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1818-1770 BCE) eyed up the area's agricultural potential, and 3,500 years later, Fayoum's glut of molokhia farmers continue to work its fertile land. Wall-to-wall sunshine and the well-drained soil are perfect conditions for molokhia, which grows here from May to August in as little as 60 days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two-metre-high, super-green is also cultivated on Cairo's dusty, abandoned roof terraces. Malik Tag, head of smart farming at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschaduf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchaduf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, gave me a tour of the social enterprise's rooftop headquarters (located in the upmarket neighbourhood of \u003Cem\u003EMaadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E),where new urban garden concepts are being trialled. Molokhia was one of the first vegetables to be grown as part of Schaduf's community-led hydroponic farming projects, he said. \"The initiative(s) enabled low-income families to sell leafy greens (including molokhia) to the city's high-end supermarkets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven kilometres away in the outlying city of Giza, I met with 27-year-old receptionist Mimi Melad, a self-proclaimed stickler for tradition when it comes to molokhia. \"I always cook with fresh (molokhia) from a stall on Al-Haram Street near my home,\" she said. \"And I do the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(pronounced \"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Echa-h'a\") every time,\" she continued, referring to an age-old cooking ritual still practised today by some Egyptian women. Believed to make the dish more flavoursome, the cook leaned over the steaming molokhia, mouthing the words \"\u003Cem\u003Eshahe't el mulukhiyah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile making an audible gasp, before clamping the pan's lid shut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My mother, grandmother and her mother all did the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" Melad said, brimming with pride. Something tells me the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E will be around in another four generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-03T17:06:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A superfood fit for a pharaoh","headlineShort":"The vegetable outlawed by royalty","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.8349263","longitude":"26.3814652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","summaryShort":"The unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-02T17:27:12.915103Z","entity":"article","guid":"01cd7f09-3422-48b4-a167-92e1e0b9f972","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:55.602601Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484338},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","_id":"621e444845ceed5ba66a5bc6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is 10pm in the Madrid neighbourhood of La Latina, one of the city’s oldest areas, and the cobbled streets thrum with the sounds of people enjoying plates of \u003Cem\u003Egambas al ajillo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(garlic prawns) and \u003Cem\u003Ecocido Madrileño \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty chickpea, pork and chorizo stew). Restaurants are bustling at an hour when, in most other countries, chefs would be hanging up their aprons for the night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile travellers might attribute Spain’s late mealtimes to the country’s laidback Mediterranean attitude, the real reason is a little more peculiar. Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGlance at a map and you’ll realise that Spain – sitting, as it does, along the same longitude as the UK, Portugal and Morocco – should be in Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). But Spain goes by Central European Time (CET), putting it in sync with the Serbian capital Belgrade, more than 2,500km east of Madrid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo why are Spaniards living behind their geographic time zone?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1940, General Francisco Franco changed Spain’s time zone, moving the clocks one hour forward in solidarity with Nazi Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Spaniards, who at the time were utterly devastated by the Spanish Civil War, complaining about the change did not even cross their minds. They continued to eat at the same time, but because the clocks had changed, their 1pm lunches became 2pm lunches, and they were suddenly eating their 8pm dinners at 9pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War II ended, the clocks were never changed back. However, in 2016, Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-35995972\"\u003Eannounced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the government was working on a plan to implement a new workday schedule ending at 6pm as opposed to 8pm. One important element of the plan was evaluating the possibility of changing Spain’s time zone from CET to GMT – something that has sparked a heated discussion throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeing 60 minutes behind the correct time zone means the sun rises later and sets later, bestowing Spain with gloriously long summer evenings and 10pm sunsets. Those who run Spain’s tourist resorts believe that more sunlight is a large draw for visitors. The regional government of the Balearic Islands ‒ which include Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza ‒ is strongly against returning to GMT and has even campaigned to maintain year-round summer time (CET+1) to allow visitors to take full advantage of the region’s mild winter climate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for many Spaniards, living in the wrong time zone has resulted in sleep deprivation and decreased productivity. The typical Spanish work day begins at 9am; after a two-hour lunch break between 2 and 4pm, employees return to work, ending their day around 8pm. The later working hours force Spaniards to save their social lives for the late hours. Prime-time television doesn’t start until 10:30pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, in the northwestern region of Galicia, the sun doesn’t rise until after 9am in winter, meaning that residents are starting their day in the dark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The fact that the time in Spain doesn’t correspond to the sun affects health, especially sleep,” said José Luis Casero, president of the National Commission for the Rationalization of Spanish Schedules, an organisation that has been campaigning for Spain to return to the correct time zone since 2006. “If we changed time zones, the sun would rise one hour earlier and we’d wake up more naturally, meal times would be one hour earlier and we’d get an extra hour’s sleep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpaniards have traditionally coped with their late nights by taking a mid-morning coffee break and a two-hour lunch break, giving them the opportunity to enjoy one of the country’s most famous traditions: the siesta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn’t fit with reality.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChanging the workday would threaten Spaniards’ customary naptime, although whether or not citizens would mind is still up for debate. A January 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplelogica.com\u002Fiop\u002Fiop16020_la_siesta_entre_los_espa%C3%B1oles.asp\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by research company Simple Lógica found that less than 18% of Spaniards nap regularly, while nearly 60% never take a siesta. In fact, business owners in many of the country’s major cities and holiday resorts remain open during the midday break to cater to tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, those who do nap express frustration when changes in their daily routine prevent them from sleeping mid-day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We should really banish the siesta in Spain because it doesn’t fit with reality,” Casero said. “And with the change of time zone bringing meal times forward and giving us an extra hour of sleep, there would be less need for a rest at midday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes down to it, economist Nuria Chinchilla, an expert in work-life balance at the Instituto de Estudios Superiores de la Empresa business school in Barcelona, feels that quality of life for Spaniards is more pressing than preserving an extra hour or two of evening light for tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have continuous jetlag,” she said. “Tourism will always be there and tourists don’t care. The number of hours of sunlight will be the same, whether it is an extra hour in the morning or in the evening.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-05-08T14:17:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The real reason why Spaniards eat late","headlineShort":"The strange reason Spaniards eat late","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","summaryShort":"Spain’s famous late-night culture is not as traditional as you may think","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:00:52.985685Z","entity":"article","guid":"5377831d-ec43-49d0-bd82-dab7e76c692e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:08:11.079579Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484338},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","_id":"621e445345ceed69e04dbc4a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith"],"bodyIntro":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStretching across the drying room in a vast, rippled expanse, the tiger nuts seemed almost like desert dunes. I'd come to Valencia towards the end of their harvesting and found the sight of this immense volume – hundreds upon thousands, perhaps even millions – impressive. Singling one out, however, I was surprised to discover a small, wrinkled form that looked distinctly less inspiring. Where tiger nuts are concerned, it turns out, appearances really are deceiving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirstly they're not actually nuts, despite being firm and brown, but tubers of the sedge plant \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And in spite of their peculiar misshapen looks, they're considered the ultimate health food. \"They're packed full of nutrients like fibre and iron, making them great for gut health, and are gluten and lactose-free too,\" said Ani de la Prida, who co-founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetigernutcompany.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tiger Nut Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016. Rumour says they even boost libido.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlso very moreish (as I've realised), with a creamy texture and sweet nutty aftertaste, tiger nuts have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodhousekeeping.com\u002Fhealth\u002Fdiet-nutrition\u002Fa20706671\u002Fhealth-benefits-of-tiger-nuts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehailed as a rising \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Good Housekeeping magazine in the US . Yet in Spain, where they're known as \"\u003Cem\u003Echufas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", these plant powerhouses have been popular for centuries – particularly in Valencia, whose beloved chufa-based drink \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dates to the 13th Century. So integral is this milky beverage to Valencian culture that, alongside cafes and ice cream parlours, it's served up in its own specialist stores known as \u003Cem\u003Ehorchaterías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk86"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Horchateria Daniel in Valencia's Colón Market","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHorchata is indelibly linked to Valencia's success in tiger nut cultivation, a practice that began in Ancient Egypt (the tubers have even been found buried in pharaohs' tombs) before spreading throughout wider North Africa; from there it was introduced into Valencia following the Muslim conquest of Hispania in 711. Cultivation took hold in L'Horta Nord, part of a vast agricultural region on the city's outskirts, known in English as \"The Orchard\". It now takes place across 19 towns in the area, where the sandy soil coupled with Valencia's temperate climate makes for ideal growing conditions. About 5.3 million kilograms of tiger nuts are produced here, 90% of which are covered by a special \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.chufadevalencia.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenomination of Origin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E status designed to regulate quality among regional products in the European Union.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpain's ingenious water maze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe vegetable outlawed by royalty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real reason why Spaniards eat late\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELegend claims that James I of Aragon, King of Valencia from 1238 to 1276, was served horchata by a young woman in the L'Horta Nord town of Alboraya. She introduced it as \"\u003Cem\u003Ellet de xufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (Valencian for \"chufa milk\"), to which he replied \"\u003Cem\u003ELlet no, això és or xata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\"(\"That's not milk, that's gold, pretty girl!\"). Tempting as the fable is, the word \"horchata\" actually stems from the Latin \u003Cem\u003Ehordeata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"of barley\": the term was originally coined for a barley-based drink but has since come to signify a range of \"plant milk\" beverages across the world, also including versions such as Mexico's \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de arroz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice). Regardless, inspired by the tale of Valencia's enthusiastic king, \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de chufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is still affectionally nicknamed \"white gold\" to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI tried my first glass in the city's Colón Market, a striking Art Nouveau edifice that recalls renowned Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí, and instantly could see the appeal. Sweet, cool and refreshing, it's essentially like drinking tiger nuts – after all, the only other primary ingredient is water – and contains all their nutritional properties to boot. The only caveat was the extra sugar, something I'd argue isn't needed but is a popular addition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk15"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tiger nut crops in front of Alquería El Machistre in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Valencians have a sweet tooth,\" laughed Toni Peinado, co-owner at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhorchateria-daniel.es\u002F\"\u003EHorchatería Daniel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in whose second branch I was sitting. Arguably Valencia's most famous horchatería company, it was founded by Alboraya-born Daniel Tortajada, one of the first people to start selling horchata, in 1949: previously, perhaps because tiger nut cultivation was too labour-intensive before the widespread use of machinery, it had largely been a non-commercial drink made in homes for family events and festive days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter selling horchata from his house and the local market, Tortajada launched his first standalone premise in 1979 on what would come to be known as the Avenida de la Horchata (Horchata Avenue), a road connecting Valencia and the nearby town of Alboraya. He was also instrumental in founding the Association of Artisan Horchata Makers, becoming its first president and soliciting Denomination of Origin status for the region's tiger nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, two more generations of Tortajadas have taken the reins of the business, which has received everyone from surrealist artist Salvador Dalí to actor Vigo Mortensen throughout its illustrious history. Now, also encompassing two Valencia sites alongside its Alboraya flagship store, the brand has continued its enterprising spirit with a diverse range of tiger nut products spanning cosmetics to bakery goods. The latter is particularly apt as it was founder Daniel, Peinado told me, who inspired the custom of accompanying horchata with \u003Cem\u003Efartons\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – long, spongy buns designed for dunking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise,\" he said, \"much like with the British and their tea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjvt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fartons laid out at Horchateria Santa Catalina in Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the inventor of horchata de chufa is unknown, 13th-Century records show a comparable drink being made near Valencia: it's clearly imbued with history and tradition, and the same can be said for the L'Horta region in which tiger nuts are farmed. Listed as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Feurope-and-central-asia\u002Fhistorical-waterscape-of-lhorta-de-valencia\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"The Orchard\" is famed for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eancient Arabic irrigation system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which sees farmers don black dress and gather weekly for the Water Court, a Unesco-inscribed practice dating back more than 1,000 years – and is the birthplace of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eesmorzaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Valencian \"mid-morning snack\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis melange of paddies and plantations just outside of Valencia is also home to distinctive regional architecture, from humble \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E farmhouses with steeply pitched roofs to \u003Cem\u003Ealquerías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the grand country residences typically occupied by wealthy landowners. It's one of these, Alquería El Machistre, that houses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.comunitatvalenciana.com\u002Fen\u002Fvalencia\u002Falboraia-alboraya\u002Fmuseums\u002Fmuseo-de-la-horchata\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: based near the town of Alboraya in the chufa stronghold of L'Horta Nord, it opened in 2007 and can be visited by appointment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisits  include a tour of the 11th-Century alquería itself, a sprawling white-washed manor whose largely 18th-Century interior reflects historical local trades like silk and ceramics. When I arrived on an unusually overcast day, I was led round by affable guide Victoria Buzón before heading to the horchata museum, situated in a small but information-packed room with adjoining interior courtyard. Here, I learned that the tiger nut plant likely originated in West Africa, where it was used in medicinal potions. \"Nowadays, West Africa has its own versions of horchata de chufa,\" said Buzón, \"though its chufas are bigger and have less flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuzón also explained how tiger nuts are cultivated in L'Horta Nord. It's a slow, meticulous process that begins with planting between March and May, when temperatures are gentler with lots of humidity. Tubers are then collected from November to January with a harvester, after which the ground is burned to manage further spread: considered an invasive species (and a weed in much of the world), \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be carefully managed. Once washed, the tiger nuts are dried for about three months in specially ventilated buildings known as \"\u003Cem\u003Ecambras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" before being manually sorted to remove any damaged specimens or impurities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjsc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"B&W photo of men harvesting tiger nuts in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, making horchata is relatively straightforward: cleansed tiger nuts are soaked for eight to 12 hours before being ground and added to water. Next, the macerated mixture is pressed and sifted to create the final extract, to which sugar is usually added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet within this deceptively simple concoction lie millennia of painstaking labour and royal legends, Pharaonic burials and age-old traditions. Stir in tiger nuts' extensive health benefits and it's easy to see how this potent Valencian super-drink really can be considered \"white gold\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-25T00:14:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","headlineShort":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","image":["p0bqwk9r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqwmh7"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","summaryShort":"This sweet, milky beverage is gluten-free and nutritionally dense","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","entity":"article","guid":"e6871a28-806a-4166-8132-3de1f0e724e9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484337},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","_id":"621e445745ceed69eb579abb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sunroof was open and the tinted windows were wound down. It was the closest I could get to soaking in the surrounds of desert and sea under the cloud-sailing sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was on Indian Ocean Drive heading a couple of hours north of Perth to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westaustralianexplorer.com\u002Fstromatolites-at-lake-thetis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Thetis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on Western Australia’s wildcard Coral Coast. Like an M C Escher drawing, the landscape morphs from market gardens to limestone-spotted scrub, soundtracked with clattering windmills drawing water from the Yarragadee Aquifer formed during the Jurassic era. There were white-trunked eucalypts and punk-haired grass trees sprouting in their thousands, flocks of black cockatoos in raucous flight and, sadly, dozens of kangaroos that had ended their days as roadkill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing on a road trip along the coast of the oldest continent on Earth was bound to be steeped in mysteries. As I passed green and yellow road signs warning to keep a look out for kangaroos, emus and echidnas, there was another rare life form I was seeking an audience with – one that traces its ancestry to the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStromatolites are living fossils and the oldest living lifeforms on our planet. The name derives from the Greek, \u003Cem\u003Estroma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “mattress”, and \u003Cem\u003Elithos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “rock”. Stromatolite literally means “layered rock”. The existence of these ancient rocks extends three-quarters of the way back to the origins of the Solar System.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith a citizen scientist’s understanding, stromatolites are stony structures built by colonies of microscopic photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria. As sediment layered in shallow water, bacteria grew over it, binding the sedimentary particles and building layer upon millimetre layer until the layers became mounds. Their empire-building brought with it their most important role in Earth’s history. They breathed. Using the sun to harness energy, they produced and built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELiving stromatolites are found in only a few salty lagoons or bays on Earth. Western Australia is internationally significant for its variety of stromatolite sites, both living and fossilised. Fossils of the earliest known stromatolites, about 3.5 billion years old, are found about 1,000km north, near Marble Bar in the Pilbara region. With Earth an estimated 4.5 billion years old, it’s staggering to realise we can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time when the continents were forming. Before plants. Before dinosaurs. Before humans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn extraordinary landscape at the edge of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fight to save Australia’s ancient dinosaur trees\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia’s answer to the Northern Lights\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Indian Ocean Drive beat along. Every now and then through the scrub I caught glimpses of the blowy, white-capped turquoise water. Then snatches of the stark white, rippling sand dunes of the town of Lancelin. This is a coastline of shipwrecks and lobster shacks, of the scouring Roaring Forties, the wild westerly \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20151009-where-is-the-windiest-place-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estorm-bearing winds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whipping the latitudes 40 and 50 degrees south, and the summer-soothing winds of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFremantle Doctor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, colloquially named for the relief it brings on a searing summer’s afternoon. This is a wild, weathered coast of enchantment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was almost at Cervantes, the rock lobster capital of the coast on the northern edge of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australiascoralcoast.com\u002Fdestination\u002Fcervantes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENambung National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A couple of kilometres down a dirt road, I reached Lake Thetis, the home of the stromatolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis was small, shallow and triangular. The bush track wound through thick-leaved, blue-petalled fanflower, seed-headed rushes and rashes of red-beaded samphire. Every now and then, the local kangaroos popped their heads up to check us out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then I saw them. There were thousands of pumice-hued stromatolites quasi-camouflaged beneath the ripples, submerged like migrations of ancient turtles holding their breaths under the slightly opaque water. I was awestruck. Blocking out the peripheral surrounds and imagining the sky methane orange from volcanic activity, this is what life looked like at the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis is just more than 2m deep and double the salinity of the sea. The lake became isolated about 4,800 years ago when the sea level fell during the last major glacial epoch. Shorelines receded and coastal dunes trapped the water inland, creating the lake. These stony oxygen givers are estimated to have been growing for about 3,500 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA metal walkway braces out over the lake so you can see the stromatolites beneath. On the 1.5km walk that circumnavigates the lake, it’s look, but don’t touch, as many of the these ancient relics have been damaged by people carelessly walking on them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut there’s another side of the stromatolite family that is present on this stretch of coast. Evolutionary progress around a billion years ago started a slow segue that saw the layered stromatolites disappear as another variation emerged. They were their younger cousins: the thrombolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour’s drive south of Perth, I took the Old Coast Road into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fyalgorup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYalgorup National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westernaustralia.com\u002Fen\u002FAttraction\u002FLake_Clifton_Thrombolites\u002F56b2671b2cbcbe7073ae0f3b#\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Clifton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, home to the largest lake-dwelling thrombolites in the Southern Hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the charismatic science presenter and University of Manchester’s rock star of particle physics, Professor Brian Cox, visited the thrombolites for his documentary series, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00zdhtg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonders of the Universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his awe for the “weird, rocky blobs in the shallows” inspired many travellers to seek out Lake Clifton, to see “the first life on Earth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrombolite derives from the same root as thrombosis, which means “clot”. Thrombolites are clotted in appearance, whereas stromatolites are layered. According to the late Dr Linda Moore from the University of Western Australia, stromatolites went into decline at a time where there was an explosion of more advanced marine life. Their ecosystem became challenged as the predator amoeba and other single-celled organisims called foraminifera used their finger-like extensions to engulf stromatolites, turning their fine, layered structures into clumps. To survive, stromatolites needed highly saline water that restricted other competing sea life, whereas thrombolites adapted. They survived and prospered in an environment less salty than the sea, their clotted texture providing a home where tiny fauna could coexist. With an impressive ancient lineal ancestry, Lake Clifton’s thrombolites are estimated to be a youthful 2,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere, too, a boardwalk ventures through the reeds and over the brackish lake, where beneath, the thrombolites can be viewed. With careful watching, you can see tiny strings of oxygen rising to the water’s surface. They are breathing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?v=881210708907989\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoongar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people of this region, their Dreamtime story tells the origin of the thrombolites. With the land dry, the Noongars prayed to the sea for the water to become fresh. Their creator left the sea in the form of the serpent, Woggaal Maadjit. She pushed through the sand dunes, creating an inlet. She laid her eggs (the thrombolites) and curled her body to protect them (the sand dunes protecting the lake). The baby serpents from the eggs that hatched carved out rivers, then when dying, they tunnelled underground forming subterranean springs on their way back to the Dreamtime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese springs provided fresh water for the Noongar people. From a scientific point of view, the microbial thrombolites use sunlight to photosynthesise for energy and to precipitate calcium carbonate (limestone) from the freshwater springs that bubble from the underlying aquifer. Groundwater flow that is low in salinity and nutrients and high in alkalinity is integral to their growth and survival; any alteration challenges their existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Clifton is a fragile environment. In 2009, the thrombolites were listed as critically endangered and are now protected under the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fwater\u002Fwetlands\u002Framsar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, placing this area in the same category as the Ramsar-listed, World Heritage \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnorthernterritory.com\u002Fkakadu-and-surrounds\u002Fdestinations\u002Fkakadu-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKakadu National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia’s largest national park that preserves the greatest variety of ecosystems on the continent. Conservation actions for Lake Clifton now include the construction of the boardwalk to prevent crushing the thrombolites, monitoring water quality and levels, protecting the buffer of native vegetation that helps filter nutrients and pollutants, monitoring the health of the thrombolite community and liaising with urban and agricultural landholders to manage and protect water quality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Survival for these ancient organisms is tenuous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese stepping stones of life are in need of protection. The change in climate is affecting the lake’s salinity. Encroaching urbanisation has increased the inflow of nutrients, causing algal bloom that blocks sunlight and smothers the thrombolites. In just more than 100 years of human-induced stresors on the lake, survival of these ancient organisms is tenuous. Like the Dreamtime serpent, Woggaal Maadjit, it is up to us to protect them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-18T20:42:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Stromatolites: The Earth’s oldest living lifeforms","headlineShort":"A billion-year-old living organism","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","summaryShort":"They date three-quarters of the way back to the Solar System’s origins","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:18.964641Z","entity":"article","guid":"35fe61a4-962b-4ce3-834c-7c7218d695d8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:13.539317Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484358},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","_id":"621e445b45ceed709404b3ea","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You might want to stay in the water for another minute,\" our skipper called out from the nearby boat as our small group surfaced from a dive on Lady Musgrave Island's magnificent outer reef. \"There's a pod of whales coming straight for you,\" he grinned, and swiftly maneuvered the boat out of the path of the incoming cetaceans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeering down through my snorkel goggles, the turquoise water was so clear that I could make out the mantra ray cleaning station some 20m below us, where we'd observed one of these majestic kites of the sea dancing in the current as small fish nibbled at its vast white underbelly. Then everything went black as five barnacle-encrusted humpback whales swam directly beneath us, the gentle giants gliding just metres from the tips of our fins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this extraordinary corner of Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, it's difficult to believe the World Heritage Site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-57938858\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enarrowly escaped\u003C\u002Fa\u003E being put on Unesco's \"in danger\" list earlier this year. Though few travellers will have heard of the setting of my blockbuster dive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPart of the Capricorn and Bunker Group, a cluster of coral cays and reefs on the southern fringe of the Great Barrier Reef, Lady Musgrave Island is one of the reef's best-kept secrets. While tourists have been visiting the Northern Great Barrier Reef since the 1890s, intrepid travellers didn't start arriving the southern section until the 1930s, when the turtle cannery on Heron Island was converted into a holiday resort. Yet the Southern Great Barrier Reef (which spans some 300km from the Capricorn Coast down to the Bundaberg region) still receives far fewer visitors than the likes of Cairns and the Whitsundays, accounting for less than 9% of the reef's 2.4 million annual visitors pre-Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a shame, for in my own experience of snorkelling and diving along the length of the Great Barrier Reef since my first visit to the Whitsundays as a six-year-old in the 1980s, I've discovered that its southern fringe is no less spectacular than other sections. Less prone to extreme weather events such as cyclones and prolonged heatwaves, it can be argued this corner of the reef is also in better shape. United by a commitment to sustainability, its key tourism operators hope to keep it that way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Turtle swimming at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, amid \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbrmpa.gov.au\u002Four-work\u002Fthreats-to-the-reef\u002Fclimate-change\u002Fsea-temperature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epredictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that climate pressures will force the Great Barrier Reef's marine life and seabirds to migrate south to escape global temperatures rising too fast for them to adapt to, could tourists follow? As Australia edges closer to reopening to the world, this corner of the reef has arguably never been so ready to roll out the welcome mat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA state-of-the-art pontoon with an underwater observatory that transforms into a 20-bed dormitory by night, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002Flady-musgrave-hq\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave HQ\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the Southern Great Barrier Reef's newest attraction. Opened in September 2021, the three-level pontoon, which also has glamping on the upper deck, provides access to pristine dive sites beyond the locations previously available to day trippers (though as I recently experienced, the latter are still pretty impressive). Permanently moored in the lagoon surrounding Lady Musgrave Island, where the Queensland National Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) manages a campground, the Lady Musgrave HQ is now one of the Great Barrier Reef's most low-impact tourism experiences. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fcan-science-and-tourism-save-the-reef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan science and tourism save the reef?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200922-australias-forgotten-other-great-reef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's forgotten other 'Great Reef'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fis-this-the-future-of-underwater-exploration\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the future of underwater exploration?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The pontoon is essentially zero footprint,\" said owner-operator Brett Lakey, whose Bundaberg-based reef cruise business, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave Experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is carbon neutral. Built from the most eco-friendly materials available, the Lady Musgrave HQ runs entirely on solar and wind power, has its own desalinator, and all waste produced is transferred back to the mainland on the Reef Empress, a 35m catamaran that docks at the HQ by day. \"She's also rated to withstand a category three cyclone, which is hopefully more than we'll ever get down here,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors also have the opportunity to give back to the reef through coral cultivation and citizen science programmes, and learn about reef conservation from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgidarjil.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGidarjil Bundaberg Sea Rangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, part of the Queensland Indigenous Land and Sea Ranger Program, who regularly join Lady Musgrave Experience trips.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDives sites now accessible to Lady Musgrave HQ guests include the colourful coral gardens fringing Lady Elliot Island, the Great Barrier Reef's southernmost coral cay, where manta rays aggregate in the hundreds. Stripped bare by guano miners in the late 19th Century, then left to the goats, Lady Elliot Island has been painstakingly rehabilitated over the past 50 years, most notably by the Gash family, who have operated \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fladyelliot.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Elliot Island Eco Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2005.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Humpback whale breaching near Lady Musgrave island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWidely credited for setting the benchmark for sustainable island tourism in Australia, the family-friendly resort reached its 100% renewable goal in 2020 – no small feat for a 150-bed hotel in the middle of the ocean, some 80km from mainland Bundaberg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Lady Elliot Island was selected as the first \"climate change ark\" as part of the Great Barrier Reef Foundation's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barrierreef.org\u002Fscience-with-impact\u002Freef-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReef Islands Initiative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, designed to safeguard critical habitats from the impacts of climate change. Building on the Gash family's own tree-planting programme, an extensive revegetation project launched as part of the initiative is paying off in more ways than expected. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We initially started planting trees because it felt like the right thing to do, but now we're seeing changes on the reef,\" said the resort's managing director Peter Gash, who was awarded an Order of Australia Medal in 2020 for his service to ecotourism and aviation. \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-019-41030-6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScientists have found\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that guano also works like a fertiliser for coral, so the bird life that the trees are attracting is helping the reef to flourish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKey to preparing the island as an \"ark\", said project leader Dr Kathy Townsend, a marine biologist and senior lecturer at the University of the Sunshine Coast, is learning more about it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're currently creating a baseline species list so we know what's living here now,\" she said. \"This will help us to monitor 'thermal refugees' (marine life and birds escaping warmer temperatures further north) coming in as time goes on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Coral beach on Lady Musgrave Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe importance of the project – which island guests can assist with by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fleaftoreef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euploading photos of marine life and seabirds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the project's Facebook page – was magnified in 2020, when the Southern Great Barrier Reef experienced coral bleaching for the first time. Fortunately, affected corals in this region have largely recovered. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events,\" said Townsend. \"Problems start occurring when these events happen with more frequency, which we've seen in other areas of the reef.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReopened in late 2019 following a A$22m facelift, the Bundaberg region's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fparks.des.qld.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fmon-repos\u002Fattractions\u002Fmon-repos-turtle-centre\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMon Repos Turtle Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which provides a critical habitat for endangered loggerhead turtles – is also implementing strategies to combat climate change impacts, such as rising temperatures, which can increase the ratio of female sea turtle hatchlings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our hatchery areas are shaded, which can reduce the incubation temperature slightly,\" said Lauren Engledow, a ranger at the QPWS-managed facility, which runs tours during the summer nesting season. \"This also prevents the entire clutch from overheating, because turtles can die if they're too hot, and that's something we're starting to see with those increasing summer temperatures.\" Engledow added that the centre's research team is also assessing the effectiveness of artificial dune watering in increasing clutch success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently on track to achieve ECO Destination Certification (which recognises a region's commitment to sustainable practices) by the end of 2021, the mainland city of Bundaberg is an ideal base for exploring the Southern Great Barrier Reef gently, with a new glamping experience at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsplittersfarm.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESplitters Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E providing a similarly low-impact alternative to the region's original eco-hotel, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkellysbeachresort.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKellys Beach Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bargara. Farm gate stalls burst with fresh produce, and other local attractions, including the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmacadamiasaustralia.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBundaberg Rum Distillery and Macadamias Australia's visitors centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in mid-2021, offer insights into sustainable farming and its connection with the health of the reef.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Manta ray and fish at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther north, in the Capricorn region, visitors can tour a marine research station and stay among a plethora of seabirds at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fheronisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeron Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and glamp on neighbouring Wilson Island, which reopened as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwilsonisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean eco-luxury retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith diesel-powered boats and more emissions-intensive planes and helicopters currently used to shuttle tourists to the Capricorn and Bunker Group due to its considerable distance from the mainland, visiting this area of the reef isn't without its sustainability challenges. But it's not only local operators who believe that tourism nonetheless plays an important role in helping to safeguard this natural wonder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The economic force of tourism helped to push the creation of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park over the line in the first place,\" said Townsend. \"And now, in the face of climate change, tourism provides a strong economic incentive to keep the reef alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:36:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An extraordinary corner of the Great Barrier Reef","headlineShort":"Australia's reef that only 9% visit","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.9073","longitude":"152.3925","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","summaryShort":"Will tourists follow the Great Barrier Reef's \"thermal refugees\"?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:37:13.661123Z","entity":"article","guid":"db74c996-aac0-485b-be6d-85525f613808","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:36:18.574896Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484358},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","_id":"621e445445ceed6b6f3509c0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002Fwhere-we-work\u002Fnewhaven\u002Fvisiting-newhaven-wildlife-sanctuary\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewhaven Wildlife Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an abrupt portal between two worlds. At one end of the road is Alice Springs, population 25,000, which is what counts in Outback Australia for an urban metropolis. At the other end are the isolated red-rock desert massifs, salt lakes and spinifex plains of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fsystem\u002Ffiles\u002Fresources\u002Fa8015c25-4aa2-4833-ad9c-e98d09e2ab52\u002Ffiles\u002Fbioregion-great-sandy-desert.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Sandy Desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia's second-largest desert, covering more than 280,000sq km. One moment you're in town, sharing the tarmac with 50m-long road trains along the Stuart Highway. Then the traffic thins, and the road across the Tanami Desert narrows and turns to sand. All of a sudden, or so it seems, you're deep in the desert in the heart of the continent. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOpen for self-drive visitors at Easter, and from May to the end of September, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is known for its birdlife and the stark beauty of its desert landscapes. It is also what all of inland Australia once looked like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09vwrkb.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I grew up out here in the desert where healthy country means trees and animals. It's my home.\"\u003Cem\u003E – Alice Ellis, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary ranger\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhite settlers arrived in the Central and Western Deserts of Australia's interior – the Great and Little Sandy deserts and the Tanami, the Simpson and Victoria deserts – in the 19th Century. Before they did, indigenous Australians lived here in harmony with the land and with wildlife that was far more abundant than you might expect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Warlpiri land, and it extends for hundreds of kilometres across the Tanami and Great Sandy Deserts. The Warlpiri are one of the largest nations and language groups among Aboriginal people. Along with the Pintupi, their neighbours to the west, the Warlpiri were among the last people in Australia to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-30500591\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecome into contact with white Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and leave behind the traditional, semi-nomadic way of life that had enabled them to survive in the desert. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWarlpiri woman Alice Ellis belongs to the last generation who can remember what that life was like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, she played in the sand dunes in the country north and west of here, moving with the seasons from one waterhole to the next. She and her family communicated with other groups through fire. When she was still young, she remembers, she and her siblings would run and hide whenever they saw white men coming in their vehicles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a process that the Warlpiri call \u003Cem\u003Eyidakimani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"reading the country\", Ellis learned almost as soon as she could walk how to interpret and track the footprints of the macropod marsupials – including black-footed rock-wallabies, bettongs and bilbies – that you find only in Australia. They also hunted feral cats – \"pussy cats\" as Ellis calls them – as well as birds and reptiles; goanna, one of Australia's largest carnivorous reptiles, which can grow up to 2.5m long, was and remains her favourite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis brings that intimate knowledge of the natural world to her work at Newhaven, a 2,600sq-km sanctuary run by the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralian Wildlife Conservancy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (AWC). As a ranger, she is a keeper of the desert's secrets. Her role is to care for country and to protect the land from the invasive pests that European settlers brought with them, pests like feral cats, foxes and rabbits that have wrought terrible destruction upon Australia's deserts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia has the worst rate of mammal extinctions in the world: one-third of global mammal extinctions over the past five centuries have occurred in Australia, and most of these have been in the country's arid zone. No-one knows for sure, but a dozen, probably more, species that once lived alongside Ellis and her ancestors have disappeared forever. Cats wiped out most of them. Other species have retreated elsewhere, pushed by a plague of cats to the outer margins of their former ranges and to the edge of extinction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEllis knew many of these animals well. When she was a young girl, Ellis and her family used to hunt the mala, a tiny hopping macropod whose creation story began close to Newhaven; the mala's sacred sites remain but the mala itself disappeared from here in the 1980s. There was the greater bilby, otherwise known as \"Australia's Easter Bunny\", thanks to its large ears and its role as one of Australia's best-loved marsupials. Or the burrowing bettong that dug deep burrows and turned over the soil, earning the admiration of scientists who call it Australia's great ecosystem engineer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of this matters for many reasons, not least among them this: 86% of Australia's 315 surviving land mammal species live nowhere else on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWho were the world's first bakers?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-joost-bakker-on-why-zero-waste-living-is-the-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe poster boy of zero-waste living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2006, with the scope of the extinction crisis in Australia's arid interior becoming clear, the AWC began an experiment: they wanted to see if the land in places like Newhaven could be returned to its original state. Ellis, and other Warlpiri rangers, led the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor months, Ellis and her colleagues tracked down the feral cats within a 94.5sq km fenced enclosure that lies close to the sanctuary's headquarters and tourist campsite at the heart of Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are many ways to track cats and other wildlife, but none have proved as effective as indigenous trackers. In the Warlpiri tradition of \"reading the country\", Ellis and the others understood cat behaviour. They knew where to find and follow cat footprints, then interpret what the tracks meant. How many cats were there? In which direction were they travelling? When did they pass? \"Indigenous trackers are much better than what we can do with live traps or cameras,\" said John Kanowski, AWC's chief scientific officer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the feral cats gone, an ambitious programme of mammal reintroductions began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Conservation isn't just a matter of putting a line around a property and saying 'here's this ecosystem we've preserved',\" said Kanowski. \"You haven't achieved anything if you haven't got the critical animals back in there. The introductions complete the conservation journey for a particular piece of land.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlack-footed rock wallabies and red-tailed phascogales, woylies and brush-tailed mulgaras all returned. And yes, the mala and burrowing bettong are also back where they belong, decades after the desert fell silent to their calls. Remarkably, the scientists hope that the bettongs may even return to the same burrows that their ancestors dug nearly half a century ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bilby in Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor all such successes, there is a danger that the traditional knowledge of the desert people – the knowledge that makes such miracles possible – may soon be lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Rachel Paltridge, a scientist with extensive experience working with indigenous people across Central Australia, \"People just aren't going out tracking on foot like they used to do. Back when I started 20 years ago, there was still that older generation of people who grew up in the bush and all going out hunting on country for food.\" Only at Newhaven, and in the small Pintupi community of Kiwirrkurra a few hundred kilometres west across the desert, Paltridge says, do these tracking skills and practices survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis knows that time is short. \"We won't be here forever,\" she said. \"If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as new generations of malas and burrowing bettongs are returning to the lands they once inhabited, a new generation of Warlpiri women are helping them get there. It was Ellis' daughter, Christine, who set some of the reintroduced mala and bettongs free at Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We won't be here forever. If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven when she was a young girl growing up in the desert, Christine's people called her \u003Cem\u003Emurturna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"old woman\" in the Warlpiri tongue. While other children were out playing, Christine sat at the feet of her elders or went with them as they tracked and hunted animals. She joined them as they foraged for bush tomatoes and bush potatoes, learning the old ways as she went.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also learned about the importance of fire. \"There is no healthy country without fire,\" she said, as she lit a match and set the country alight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Christine Ellis at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When people were living traditionally on the land,\" said Steve Eldridge, a regional fire expert, \"they used fire as one of their main tools to stimulate growth, which brought in food – kangaroos, that sort of thing. Because they were such a nomadic nation of people, they were moving through the landscape constantly, always lighting fires, so you end up with this mosaic of fire ages [when a particular piece of land was last burned]. A lot of the native flora and fauna adapted to that regime. When there was this mosaic, just that in itself would stop these huge, fast wildfires from establishing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's not just Newhaven. The resumption of traditional fire practices here is part of a nationwide trend towards restoring the health of ecosystems through indigenous land-management practices. With fires doing their work, the land itself regenerates and the animals and plant life return. Newhaven is home to 23 desert ecosystems across its 261,501 arid hectares, and each ecosystem tells its own story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn places, bloodwoods and ghost gums again play their role as shelters for returning native animals; nearby, the wind in the desert oaks sounds like waves on a distant ocean shore. Vast murmurations of bright-green budgerigars chase birds of prey, shape shifting like a single being careening across the sky. Out in the sanctuary's west, the salt lake that the Warlpiri call Yunkanjini (and which explorers named Lake Bennett) is both sacred site and a vast and beautiful place whose colour palette changes with the light. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is what the desert looked like when I was a little girl,\" said Alice. \"The country is healthy again.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Freasons-to-love-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E ---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-15T02:04:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The indigenous keepers of the Outback's secrets","headlineShort":"A remote world of 23 deserts","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.4941","longitude":"131.0658","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","summaryShort":"This is what all of inland Australia once looked like","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-14T19:45:29.813881Z","entity":"article","guid":"6a895c13-52f4-4bfa-99d9-2a3f276d247f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:34:10.752054Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484339},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6a4f5f75","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila"],"bodyIntro":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002Fscience\u002F2017-05-10\u002Fearly-life-on-land-in-3.5bn-year-old-hot-spring-in-pilbara\u002F8497594\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escience has confirmed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E what Aboriginal Australians, the world's oldest continuous living culture, always knew: the Pilbara region of Western Australia is among the oldest places on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara began to form more than 3.6 billion years ago and its vast landscape of deep pindan reds and endless panoramas, which stretches from the west coast to the Northern Territory border, is an ancient, forbidding place. For those travelling to the region for the first time, the initial sense of space and solitude can be daunting: it's roughly double the size of Great Britain, but with a population of just 61,000, it is one of the most sparsely populated regions on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc2yw9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kermits Pool, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists have determined that the Pilbara's vast formations of iron-rich rock, formed prior to the existence of oxygen and life itself, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41561-018-0105-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe best-preserved example of the world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While other global iron deposits are thought to have formed at a similar time, the surface of the Pilbara remains unburied and undisturbed by geologically cataclysmic events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The unique thing about the Pilbara landscape is not just its age, but its incredible state of preservation,\" said Martin Van Kranendonk, professor of geology at The University of New South Wales, who has spent years mapping and studying the Pilbara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30hp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fossilised Stromatolites of Marble Bar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Earth's oldest lifeforms\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Van Kranendonk, Pilbara rock is so ancient that it contains no fossils within its structure, yet stromatolites, the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms, are found upon it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1980, 3.45-billion-year-old fossil stromatolites were found near Marble Bar (pictured above) in the Pilbara. These microbial cyanobacteria communities first existed when conditions on Earth could not support any other form of life, building bulbous reef-like structures as they released oxygen through photosynthesis. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, just south of the Pilbara at Hamlin Pool near Shark Bay, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's most extensive living stromatolites system is still thriving\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, even fizzing, as it produces oxygen in the hypersaline bay. This is one of just two places on Earth where living marine stromatolites exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc330h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Red landscape of the Pilbara with fossils in rock","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EExploring the\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E Red Planet\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, Nasa scientists conducted investigations in the Pilbara with Van Kranendonk to better prepare them for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nasa.gov\u002Fcontent\u002Fnasas-journey-to-mars\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejourney to Mars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Many of them had never personally seen evidence of ancient life and that's what they were going to Mars to look for,\" said Van Kranendonk. \"So, for them, it was really an eye-opening experience, to see and understand the details and texture of the fossilised stromatolites to get a better understanding of what signatures to look for as they search the surface of Mars for evidence of life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than just its age, the chemical similarities of the rock composition mean the Pilbara is highly relevant to the scientists' preparation for the Mars mission. \"The composition of those rocks and the amount of iron in the Pilbara is amazing and similar to Mars,\" said Van Kranendonk, \"which is why it is known as the Red Planet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30pw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Layered rock formations at Hammersley Gorge, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAn underground surprise\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara can be unforgiving, extreme and sometimes dangerous for the ill-prepared. It is also hauntingly beautiful and captures the imagination of visitors from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the area looks like semi-arid desert, within it is one of the world's most beautiful national parks. Carved out of the land by billions of years of slow erosion, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fkarijini\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's otherworldly splendour lies deep in its ancient gorges and sheer-sided chasms, where dramatic waterfalls and crystal-clear waterholes are set among the striated rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor visitors, this is a paradise of cool rock pools fed by underground springs, lush vegetation and abundant wildlife. For scientists, the canyons at Karijini offer unparalleled access to naturally excavated cross sections of layered rock that reveal much about the Earth at the time this ancient land was formed. \"It is such a beautiful thing; those gorges allow you to look down through the layers of time,\" said Van Kranendonk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30wp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Spa Pool, Hammersley Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA natural spa pool\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe permanent flowing waterfalls, waterholes and oases found here are made only more awe-inspiring given the conditions on the harsh Pilbara exterior.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike an ancient, secret cistern, Spa Pool has been hewn from the rock by the constant flow of water at the head of Hamersley Gorge. The bath-like formation is almost completely enveloped in multi-hued, smooth rock wall. The gentle burbling of the stream constantly replenishing the pool is the only sound in one of Karjini's most intimate hideaways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Karijini Eco Retreat","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia's hidden secret\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe only accommodation in the national park is the indigenous-owned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.karijiniecoretreat.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini Eco Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Early mornings at the retreat are special. The cool, predawn air is energising, and the low light filtered through suspended iron-rich dust saturates the landscape in colour before the full sun of the late morning washes away this intensity until sunset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt night, when there is a confluence of clear skies and no moon, Karijini is a dark sky wonderland for stargazers and astro-photographers alike. The dry air and lack of light pollution provide for a dazzling display of detail in the Milky Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is a unique and iconic Australian destination,\" said co-owner Marnie Shields, explaining that guests are often overcome by the beauty, accessibility and diversity of Karijini. \"While the magnificent region is being revealed to the rest of the world, it's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310w"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Massive Fig Tree, Dale Gorge, near Fern Pool","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA shocking world of contrasts\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Karijini guide Pete West, the stark shift in microclimate, fauna and flora shocks most visitors as they descend from the arid surface into the lush, verdant gorges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It becomes apparent very quickly that there's a distinct micro-environment in the gorges,\" he said. \"The flora is remarkably different from the surface, like melaleucas, which are the biggest trees in the Pilbara. You just don't get it on the surface, you only ever see them in creek beds. Then there [are] the delicate ferns, moss and the big leaf fig tree (pictured above). It's such a contrast, in and out of the gorge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe presence of permanent water in the gorges is the fundamental building block of the gorge microenvironment that supports fish, flying foxes and a range of predators taking advantage of the optimal conditions. The abundance of reptiles is astounding, from small desert dragons to pythons up to 5m in length.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc312c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fern Pool, Dales Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EImportant women's place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKarijini is also a place of important cultural significance to indigenous people, with certain locations in the park recognised as women's-only places and others that are strictly for men. \"There are places, for instance, women would go if they wanted to get pregnant and places they would visit if they wanted to have twins,\" explained anthropologist Dr Amanda Harris, who has worked across the Pilbara with traditional owners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFern Pool (pictured above), located in a terrarium-like environment at the genesis of Karijijni's Dale's Gorge, is an important women's place to the local Banjima people, yet unlike other indigenous destinations that prohibit interference, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\"\u003EUluru's climbing ban\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a prohibition on photography at areas within the Kunku-Breakaways near \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191121-australias-subterranean-oasis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoober Pedy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Karijini traditional owners welcome all guests, asking only that visitors be respectful and walk lightly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc314r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mt Bruce, Karijini","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA place of respite\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists believe that the Banjima people and their forebears have been using Karijini, which means \"hilly place\" in local Aboriginal languages, as a meeting location for 30,000 to 40,000 years. Nomadic tribes of the Pilbara maintained life in a challenging environment with daily resource gathering essential for survival. Karijini offered a place of respite and security of resources, shelter and permanent water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is referred to by all the neighbouring tribes as a meeting place, as an ancient place where business is conducted, families get together, marriages are arranged, lore is passed. This still goes on today,\" said West.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMount Bruce (pictured above), Western Australia's second-tallest peak, stands at the entry to Karijini and holds both geological and indigenous significance. Known as Punurrunha to indigenous people, the mountain is a sacred site and highly significant in Aboriginal Law. To Banjima, this is strictly a male-only site, with some female elders refusing to even set eyes on the peak as they pass by. Visitors, however, are not restricted from photographing or even ascending to the summit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc32wk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sun setting on Karrijini, Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAncestral knowledge\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara is still revealing new secrets about early conditions on Earth and the life of the region's first inhabitants. While new discoveries about how long the Pilbara has been continuously inhabited surprise scientists, to indigenous people, it is something they have always known.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because we know life, as a people we've always known [human] life started here,\" said Yindjibarndi and Ngarluma elder and indigenous Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker. \"The world began here, everything began here. So, from our perspective, we've never believed we came from anywhere else except here and that we were created in this landscape by beings much more advanced than us, who also taught us all our knowledge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc31jh"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker on red rocks in Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERecords of extinct macropods\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEarlier this year, Walker was exploring at low tide and found ancient rock etchings that depict kangaroo footprints in the intertidal zone of the Pilbara's Burrup Peninsula. He believes this is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002F2021-07-15\u002Ftour-guide-uncovers-underwater-rock-art\u002F100294428\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe first such underwater find of its kind anywhere in Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, garnering significant scientific interest. He explained that the current theory of origin is that this etching was likely made after the last ice age when the water levels were more than 100m lower, between 7,000 and 18,000 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalker delights in showing guests local rock art containing important imagery such as extinct macropods (pictured above) and believes that many discoveries, both underwater and on land, are yet to be made.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's so funny, even when I'm doing tours, I'll still find lots of new rock art at the same places I have been many times,\" said West. \"But even the guests are finding things I haven't seen before either, you know. It's exciting for everyone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc3240"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Deep gorge in the Pilbara with green shrubs on surface","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA magical place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe magic of the Pilbara lies in its ancient roots. There are no crowds, fences, buildings or other impositions of modernity. Just a place as old as time and its custodians that welcome you to make your own journey of discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This place is for seekers, you know. For photographers, for artists, for painters, geologists, lovers of nature,\" said West. \"I see this in people that come to Karijini in particular. As you walk through those gorges, guaranteed you'll be running your hands along the oldest rocks you'll ever touch. When you think about this, our problems, our concerns, our ambitions are all almost irrelevant. It gives you a true sense of perspective. I think that's super cool.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-24"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-27T10:19:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is the Pilbara the oldest place on Earth?","headlineShort":"The oldest place on Earth?","image":["p0bc2yw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-21.5921","longitude":"121.5237","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bc2yw5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","summaryShort":"\"It's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets\"","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","tag\u002Fnational-parks","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-26T21:47:38.9987Z","entity":"article","guid":"0d191ec0-b990-4b51-a060-aa9b1bdc8120","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:02.919794Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484338},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","_id":"621e445445ceed6b7d496970","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaked and sweaty, they laid inside grass-covered stone igloo-like structures in the remote fields of Ireland. Some were ill, others may have been having hallucinations, hatching plans to distil illegal alcohol or imagining they were the Vikings who once raided this country. By the time these addled folk emerged from the structures back into the fresh air of 19th-Century Ireland, they had been through a jarring mental and physical journey. One that still holds many mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some people reckoned the cure was worse than the disease,\" archaeologist Aidan Harte told me of this sweltering experience, as he stood atop a 150-year-old Irish sweathouse in Killadiskert, an isolated corner of County Leitrim. \"Part of the reason there's crazy theories about hallucinations and making alcohol is because we just don't fully know the truth about sweathouses and all their uses. They're a bit of a riddle that we're now trying to work out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte is leading the new \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimcoco.ie\u002Feng\u002FCommunity-Culture\u002FHeritage\u002FArchaelogical-Heritage\u002FSweat-House-Project\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeitrim Sweathouse Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with Leitrim County Council Heritage Officer Sarah Malone. Malone said their aim was to identify and demystify these timeworn structures, which are scattered across Ireland and were used as a sort of extreme stone sauna from the early 1600s to the early 1900s. She said they had so far recorded more than 100 sweathouses in Leitrim alone – more than anywhere else in Ireland, and a staggering concentration given that this tiny Greater London-sized county is home to fewer than 35,000 people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor generations, most of these mysterious beehive-shaped structures have sat dormant and forgotten in Leitrim, a whisper-quiet, picturesque county in Ireland's north-west characterised by sprawling farms, petite towns and the kind of intensely green, hilly landscape that's inspired countless Irish poems. According to Harte, that's because many of the sweathouses are on properties owned by farmers who know little about them, other than them being impediments to agriculture. This is just the way it is in Ireland. Inhabited for more than 10,000 years, the nation is laden with so many archaeological sites that they can't all be pinpointed, probed and preserved. Now, the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is seeking volunteers to collate information and oral histories on this little-known aspect of Ireland's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sweathouses represent a little-known aspect of Ireland's history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, Leitrim's stone mounds are still sturdy. Nothing shifted as I scaled the 2.2m-tall Killadiskert structure to earn striking views of the undulating farmland that surrounds it. \"It shouldn't cave in,\" Harte said, cheekily. \"Seriously though, these things were made to last.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce I stepped back onto the soggy earth, Harte ran his hand across the sweathouse's uneven surface as he explained its construction. As with the one in Killadiskert, most Irish sweathouses were built into hillsides or banks to bolster their foundation, and set in remote locations near a water source. Chunks of uncut rock, each a different shape and size, were carefully piled and then bonded with clay and sod to create a domed structure with a single low entrance, similar in appearance to an igloo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurf or wood was lit inside the sweathouse, before its entrance and roof vent were blocked, Harte said. After a few hours, smoke would be released, the embers swept out and a naked person would crawl into the stifling space and sweat for as long as they could bear. Eventually, they would emerge to cleanse and cool themselves in the nearby stream. Sometimes their condition improved, Harte said. The sweathouse had unfurled its earthen magic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile sweating certainly has proven medical benefits – including helping to improve blood circulation and filter toxins out of the body – according to Dr Ronan Foley, a leading expert on Irish sweathouses from Ireland's Maynooth University, these naked sauna sessions were often nothing more than a placebo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Germans love getting naked in public\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200728-croatias-pristine-isle-of-wellness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECroatia's pristine isle of wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191015-japans-most-remote-onsen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's most remote onsen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It would be very reasonable to assume the sweathouse cure did not work all the time or for all people, even for the conditions it was recommended for, so it was never a panacea in that sense,\" Foley said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, in Ireland's isolated landscape, where modern medical facilities were few and far between, sweathouses remained popular for roughly 300 years. Foley said they were commonly used to treat rheumatism, arthritis, fevers and respiratory conditions, especially in rural areas like Leitrim, which is home to more than one-third of Ireland's identified sweathouses. By comparison, very few are located near the cities of Dublin, Cork and Limerick, which had far more sophisticated health services than Leitrim until recent decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot much has been documented about the historical use of sweathouses. But many Leitrim families have ancestral roots that stretch back centuries, and thanks to Ireland's strong tradition of oral history, many sweathouse myths survive. Harte said some Leitrim residents he'd interviewed believe sweathouses weren't just used to treat illnesses. According to some tales he'd heard, sweathouses were makeshift distilleries for circumventing Ireland's long ban on distilling \"\u003Cem\u003Epoitin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" moonshine. In another popular story, they once hosted drug-fuelled hallucination sessions aimed at connecting with the Celtic gods. Harte doesn't give much credence to these narratives, and has found no evidence to support them. But with so little known about sweathouses, he also said he also can't rule them out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin. According to Foley, there are four prevailing theories. One claims these structures can be traced to Scandinavia and the Vikings. Saunas have been used in northern Europe for more than 2,000 years, and Vikings had a major impact on Irish culture while occupying parts of the country between the 9th and 12th Centuries. Another theory posits they may have been imported from the US by returning Irish immigrants who'd studied Native American sweat lodges. Just as intriguing is the theory sweathouses were re-purposed \u003Cem\u003Efulacht fiadh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a type of ancient, outdoor Irish oven. Finally, some old antiquarian journals suggested the Irish creators of the sweathouse may have been inspired by seeing hammams while travelling in the Middle East, where the Islamic bathhouses have been used for more than a millennium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"An even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, none of these theories convince Foley. Instead, he believes Ireland's sweathouses emerged organically. \"I feel they were a sort of local variant of a global cultural production of sweating-cure places,\" he said. \"The healing value of sweating was well known. Building small buildings that induced sweating from local materials would have been sort of worked out by Irish rural dwellers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Ireland's ancient sweathouses are valuable artefacts of the country's rural history. Harte's project could even help these long-neglected structures become offbeat tourist attractions, according to Sarah McCarthy, a regional development officer for Fáilte Ireland, the country's national tourism body. \"We know that culture and heritage form a significant element of Ireland's appeal to overseas visitors,\" McCarthy said. \"The Leitrim sweathouses and the associated research project reveal a hidden part of our history and heritage, and add to the riches for the visitor to uncover.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte shares this hope. But as he bent down to peek into the tight opening of the Killadiskert sweathouse, he conceded most of these structures aren't yet ready to accommodate tourists. While tourists are able to gain direct access to the nearby sweathouses at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimireland.com\u002Flistings\u002Fit-is-located-just-before-the-village-of-ballinaglera-close-to-dowra-village-and-about-10-kilometres-from-drumshanbo-and-is-on-the-route-of-the-leitrim-way-walking-trail-st-hughes-sweathouse\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Hughes well\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fleitrimtourism.com\u002Fheritage\u002Fparkes-castle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParke's Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Killadiskert sweathouse and many others are on private land. Even as an archaeologist, Harte hadn't always found it easy getting permission from landowners to visit other sweathouses. A key aim of the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is to gain greater public recognition and heritage protection for these structures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne day, Ireland's sweaty, naked saunas may be renowned, preserved and pinned to a tourist trail. For now, however, they remain enigmatic stone humps hidden in the emerald landscape, waiting for someone to unravel their secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-11T10:57:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The unearthing of Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","headlineShort":"Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.1247","longitude":"8.0020","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","summaryShort":"They're scattered across the country and testify to Ireland's steamy past","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-10T22:24:29.371729Z","entity":"article","guid":"7846a894-361d-4146-827d-983a934762bb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:35:31.746285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484340},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","_id":"621d1a3b45ceed17fa292836","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A team of volunteers is dedicating their lives to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing one of Ireland's most famous and longest-standing residents.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeals have inhabited Ireland's coastline for more than 7,000 years, and the country's native grey seals and common seals play a pivotal role in balancing the ocean's ecosystem. In the early 1900s, the animals nearly vanished from Irish seas due to overhunting, but since they received federal protection in 1976, their numbers have started to recover. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, these days the animals face a host of new threats, from fishing nets and dwindling food supplies to climate change that warms their waters. But for more than a decade, the charity \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sealrescueireland.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeal Rescue Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has been rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing orphaned and sick seals from across the country in their Wexford, Ireland facility. Last year alone, they rescued 170 seals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"VIDEO: Ireland's seal rescue heroes","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBBC's The Travel Show recently paid them a visit as they got ready to release one of their most famous residents yet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-03T20:26:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's inspiring seal sanctuary","headlineShort":"The heroes saving Ireland's seals","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.3369","longitude":"6.4633","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A team of volunteers is dedicating their lives to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing one of Ireland's most famous and longest-standing residents.","summaryShort":"Seals have inhabited Irish waters for more than 7,000 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-02T20:27:05.946429Z","entity":"article","guid":"e66e133d-e3ee-47c5-bcc1-fcff665255b5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:15.491069Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484340},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","_id":"621d1a4245ceed44e627dae1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI learned several new words during my time in Shetland, the distant island chain drifting between Scotland and Norway. One of them was \u003Cem\u003Eequinoctial\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. It means \"of or relating to the equinox\". It is frequently used to describe equinoctial gales, which can feel relentless this far north when the seasons change in spring and autumn. In a place as exposed to the elements as Shetland, they can be definitive; on its most distant island of Foula, they can act as a sort of gatekeeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003E\"Things are likely to get pretty entertaining,\" said pilot Marshall Wishart as we boarded his BN-2B Islander to fly from the airport outside Shetland's largest town, Lerwick, to the airstrip on Foula, 31 miles west. Our departure had already been delayed by the gales for many hours and for a time the forecast said that no flying would be possible for several days. Instead, however, half-an-hours' notice was given to scramble to the airport and make a narrow weather window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIn a year dominated by domestic travel, Foula has perhaps been the most extreme option available to Brits. Sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule – Latin bywords for extremely remote destinations – it is said to be the most remote inhabited British island, reached by an unpredictable ferry or the frequently hectic 17-minute flight from the Shetland Mainland. Travel due west beyond it and there is nothing but the tumultuous North Atlantic until the east coast of Greenland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EOn the day I flew, the equinoctial gales were strong enough to decapitate any white horses forming below. By that point in early October, the island's ferry hadn't sailed for a couple of weeks and wasn't expected to try again for several more. This meant that the 30 or so permanent residents on the island depended wholly on the vagaries of light aircraft to bring them supplies. \"It could be like this until the next equinox really,\" said Sheila Gear, Foula resident of almost 60 years. \"It's only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you're used to it if you live here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Foula sheep lying on grass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ENonetheless, there is a limited amount of tourism, with just two guest houses – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.selfcateringfoula.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Burns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Faccommodation\u002Fristie-self-catering-p1502271\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and a few camping sites providing accommodation. The majority of visitors are birders, drawn here by the tens of thousands of birds that make this blustery island home over summer. Otherwise, Foula offers few distractions for those not interested in the outdoors: there is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, not even a shop to buy basic supplies. Visitors must bring everything with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ETo some people this is a surprise, but it is not the only one on Foula. Before making the long journey north, I asked some Shetlander friends what to expect. Not only had none of them been before, but they also didn't even know anyone who had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK village that lost its cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA small Scottish isle with a big story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIf outsiders know anything at all about the island it is likely to be that the residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, having refused to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in line with the rest of the country in 1752. They may also know that this was the last place in the United Kingdom to speak a Norse language, Norn. However, they may not be aware that the reason the language finally died out was because of a pandemic – not Covid-19, but smallpox, lethal waves of which washed over the island in the 18th Century, killing the majority of residents. When Foula was repopulated by English-speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EMany of the words that endure today are names of seabirds. There are maalie (northern fulmars), tystie (guillemots), solan gos (gannets) and many more besides. Above them all, stands the great skua, or bonxie as it's known locally. The huge, brown gull-like birds can be difficult creatures to love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EEven Gear, who has spent most of her life around them, finds their characteristics to be challenging, bordering on disgusting. \"The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support,\" she told me, between bonxie stories too upsetting to repeat here. \"Where's that going to end? It's not sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"House with sea stack behind in Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe bonxie has no claws with which to kill its prey. It does, however, have the instincts of a predator, meaning it must use its barbed beak to pitilessly peck at its victims. Lambs are not safe, and even Shetland pony foals can be targeted. One night I saw a dead rabbit on the side of Foula's only significant road; by morning, great skuas had disassembled it to something unrecognisable. The smaller Arctic skua (skooty aalin) is hardly a shrinking violet itself, but even it loses chicks to the bonxies. The island's sturdy crows may have larger brains and a reputation for similarly callous behaviour, but they too give way to the piratical bonxies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EYet even these screaming brigands can't face Foula in winter, instead flying south to Africa to scavenge, rob and kill on a whole new continent before returning in spring. \"For all I've said about them,\" continued Gear, as though trying to strike a conciliatory tone, \"we're still really glad to see them come back each time. They're part of life here and we're fond of them, even if we're not so fond of their behaviour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EBirds aside, there is extraordinary beauty on Foula, too. The majority of the settlement is on the east side of the island, sheltering from the most violent of the North Atlantic's furies. Disparate farms are surrounded by peat moss bogs that are dutifully patrolled by mismatching Foula sheep and Shetland ponies. While these scenes can look pretty, especially with the island's satisfying ruddy hills in the background, the north coast is significantly more beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIt's there that Garda stands, a hulking three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean. The same is true nearby at the sensational Da Kame, the site of most of Foula's birds' nests. They have picked an exceptionally scenic spot; among the highest cliffs in Europe, this vast avian city looks especially dramatic at day's end when the sun's dying rays bounce off its mighty walls as waves crash in below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe granite landscape does a lot better here than metal – salty gales eat at vehicles, meaning they rarely last more than a few years. Up and down the road, I saw abandoned cars stripped to skeletons by the elements. When I took a walk to the island's graveyard, I found that the same wind had feasted on headstones, leaving most of them unreadable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coastline of Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI explained to Gear that while I thoroughly enjoyed my time on her island, I had no notion to move there. I would wilt in the face of its challenges. \"It can be a difficult place, especially in winter,\" she replied with a slight chuckle. \"There's the darkness and the continual wind and rain. Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it. The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EA hard island for hard people and even harder birds. Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage, summed it up on one especially windy morning. \"This is not a place where humanity is in the ascendency,\" he said. \"It's just clinging on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-09T20:41:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Foula: Britain's most remote inhabited island","headlineShort":"Britain's most remote inhabited island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.1313","longitude":"2.0695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","summaryShort":"Only around 30 permanent residents live on Foula","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","entity":"article","guid":"f0feb26a-d291-45df-a4fb-ece8fa8711a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:20.162684Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484340},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","_id":"621e445545ceed6b8462ccb2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fyvonne-gordon"],"bodyIntro":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding on top of Correen More hill in the middle of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWild Nephin National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in County Mayo, you can see miles and miles of uninterrupted bogland, a carpet of orange and brown stretching into the distance across ridges, up over hills and down along valleys dotted with forests and lakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo the west, from this 285m-high lookout point, the views stretch all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, to the grey-blue of Bellacragher Bay and further on to the pointy dark peak of Slievemore Mountain on Achill Island, 32km away as the crow flies. To the north is Bellacorick wind farm, 16km away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween here and there is a wilderness that looks untouched. There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires, no houses or villages, visible in any direction. The land is empty, and one of Ireland's six national parks, named Wild Nephin after the Nephin Beg Mountain range, this is said to be the loneliest. Some even say it contains Ireland's loneliest place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt does not feel bleak or desolate though, thanks to the warm reds and golds of the bog. In the distance, patches of green forest carpet the sides of a valley and nearby lakes look like tiny puddles, reflecting the sky. Underfoot, the bogland is grassy, mossy and wet, and rocky in some parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8qkq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Landscape of brown and green rolling hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECounty Mayo is one of the most westerly parts of Ireland's Atlantic coast. Go 1km from Newport village, and there's a turn off the N59 (signposted for Furnace) which brings you onto the road to Letterkeen, where there's an entrance to Wild Nephin. As civilisation falls away, there's a feeling of driving into the middle of nowhere, as I found when I followed this road along the edge of Lough Feeagh while the sun lit up Ben Gorm mountain behind it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Irish landscape sometimes has a magical, mischievous air, and this day was no exception as a rainbow appeared right in the middle of the road. I drove on over bumps and hills, following the twists and bends. Around one, a pretty stone house with a brown and white cat sitting outside appeared, like something from a children's fairytale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Letterkeen, at the end of the road that narrows to a gravel trail, I came to a small stone bothy (a small hut that serves as a shelter) and carpark. There was nobody around – and no phone signal. It felt a bit eerie. An information panel about Wild Nephin Wilderness outlined how the area will in time become truly wild.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Ireland's biggest wilderness, which is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow the bog and forest go back to their natural state even if much of the land has always been wild. Wet and boggy, it was unsuitable for tillage, and the lack of shelter meant it was hard on livestock too, although it's been grazed by sheep since the mid-1800s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8vn5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A sheep looks up from grazing in wet land","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was Irish naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger who described the Nephin Beg mountains in 1937 as \"the very loneliest place in this country, for the hills themselves are encircled by this vast area of trackless bog\", and little seems to have changed since then.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FThe_Way_That_I_Went.html?id=Tcj_nQEACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Way That I Went\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Praeger described this area as a houseless and roadless 200 square miles of \"nothing but brown heather\", but found the place \"not lonely or depressing but inspiriting\". He wrote, \"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature, and you may feel dimly something of your own littleness and your own greatness…\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESomeone who also finds the landscape full of spirit is Michael Chambers, head guide at Wild Nephin National Park, who grew up in the townland of Srahmore on the southern edge of the park. We met at the bothy at Letterkeen, which is named the Robert Lloyd Prager Centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven before he worked here, Chambers spent years exploring every inch of the land, looking for places he'd heard about in childhood stories and discovering some of its extraordinary secrets. As we crossed the rushing Altaconey River and walked past knee-deep heather along the banks, Chambers told me that he loves how you can reconnect with nature here. \"As you go into the park, there's no evidence of man's impression on the landscape. It's a natural landscape, left intact, where you can become one with the natural world around you,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature – Robert Lloyd Praeger","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the landscape seems empty, beneath the surface are layers of history and stories so fascinating they sometimes leave shivers. From Letterkeen, the Bangor Trail runs 26km to the town of Bangor Erris, following an ancient path where drovers moved livestock between there and the town of Newport. The full 40km trail dates back to at least the 16th Century and is older than many of the surrounding villages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperienced hikers describe the trail as one of Ireland's most challenging, with shin-deep soggy bogland, streams and hills – and no exit route. In the past, as roads were built, the trail became disused, so conditions deteriorated. But as well as stories of wet gear, there are darker tales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChambers told local stories of highwaymen along the trail; for example, the story of a young girl returning from selling cattle at the market, who was murdered. The robbers could not find her money but later, when her family was laying her out for the funeral, they found she'd hidden it in the bun of her hair. Her ghost is said to wander the trail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are remains of old cottages, some abandoned during \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0003rj1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Great Hunger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the famine of 1845-1852, when many tenants were evicted, plus old famine graves – mass graves of people who lost their lives along the Bangor Trail while walking to the town of Westport to catch a boat to emigrate across the Atlantic to America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he was young, Chambers heard stories from his father and grandfather of caves sheltering rebels in 1921 during the War of Independence. He was always looking out for the caves, and on a walk in 2016, he followed a fox and found a cave on Ben Gorm that had human remains from the Neolithic period 5,600 years ago. Carbon dating showed it was a ritual site used for more than 1,000 years to prepare bodies for the afterlife (the remains are still being studied and will later go to the National Museum).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8qwz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man in blue jacket walks right along a river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe national park was established in 1998 originally as Ballycroy National Park, and in 2009, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002Fvisit-us\u002Fvisitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built at Ballycroy, with an exhibition on the park's habitat and species. There's a 2km looped trail at the centre, but the main body of the park starts 3km to the east and stretches more than 15,000 hectares past the Nephin Beg mountains, taking in the 721m Slieve Carr, said to be Ireland's most remote mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park was extended when 4,000 hectares of commercial forest (called Nephin Forest) was taken over in 2017 and was renamed Wild Nephin National Park a year later. Since then, around 10,000 native trees have been planted – including sessile oak, birch, rowan, alder, poplar and native Scots pine – which would have covered the area 4,000 years ago, before a wetter climate and more rainfall led to the formation of the bogs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park's Owenduff bog is one of the last intact active \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishbogrestorationproject.ie\u002Fabout_bogs.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblanket bogs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E left in Western Europe. Bogs like these are important in the battle against climate change because they store so much carbon. In the past, forestry drained huge areas, releasing the carbon and leading to flooding. The conservation plan to rewild the bogs back to their natural state includes removing the conifers and blocking up the drains to keep the wetlands wet and the carbon stores intact.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOvergrazing of sheep also damaged the vegetation. Chambers said there is evidence that the vegetation is recovering and attracting wildlife again. Birds like the golden plover and red head grouse are once more nesting these sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe saw a red deer on our walk. The area is attracting native animals like the pine marten, cait crann in Irish (tree cat), plus field mice, otters, badgers and foxes. Birds include finches, sand martins, dippers, dunnocks, swallows and cuckoo. In winter, whooper swans and white fronted geese come to feed. There are herons and ducks, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocal hiker Rosanna Loftus from Crossmalina said she started hiking in the park on the Letterkeen looped trails (6km, 10km and 12km) and then worked up to the Bangor Trail. \"It's absolutely beautiful in the park,\" she said. \"You just get lost in your thoughts. There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoftus said that meeting others in the park is so rare that people stop and chat when they do – however, she didn't meet anyone else on the Bangor Trail, even on a sunny July day. She loves that it's not crowded like some other parks. \"It's a blessing to have, you have peace of mind and quiet to just enjoy it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother local hiker, Trish Reddington from Castlebar, said her first experience of the park was a three-day trek on the Bangor Trail while studying outdoor education.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was amazing. We stayed in the bothy and we camped out the second night. We were eaten alive by midges, we got drowned wet and fell into bog holes, but it was the best experience ever,\" she told me. \"It wasn't until then that I realised this wilderness was out there. When you get there, you feel like you're far away from everything and everyone. It's just so remote, the fact that you can go in there and just walk for 10 hours and not meet anybody. When you really get into the national park, you don't hear the outside world, you just hear nature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8r5p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Far out hills under a cloudy sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECamping is allowed in designated spots in the park; as well as the bothy, there are two mountain meitheals (open wooden shelters). Also, the park is rebuilding some stone herders houses along the Bangor Trail and the Western Way (a 124km trail that partly runs through the park) so people can stay overnight. It's planned that around three of these will be ready to open this year, and on a clear night, the park is the perfect spot to admire the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe night sky is so unpolluted by light that it is home to Mayo Dark Sky Park, one of the world's few Gold Tier dark sky parks – meaning certain phenomena like the Milky Way and faint meteors are visible. There are three official dark sky viewing points – the most remote is at the Robert Lloyd Praeger Centre – and there are plans for an observatory and planetarium in the future. During a night winter lantern guided walk, Georgia MacMillan, the Dark Sky Park's development officer, explained how constantly being exposed to artificial light (even from streetlights) negatively affects our circadian rhythms and also impacts wildlife and biodiversity. And while the night sky views are amazing, even on a cloudy night, you might have a divine experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The park is called after the Nephin Beg mountain range, which means heaven and heavenly,\" said Chambers, referring to the Irish word, néifinn. \"The Nephin Beg mountains are my little piece of heaven.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-26T18:58:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness, Wild Nephin National Park","headlineShort":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness","image":["p0bk8q9n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.0244585","longitude":"-9.8233278","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","promoImage":["p0bk8q9n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","summaryShort":"There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking","tag\u002Fremote","tag\u002Fwildlife"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-25T22:18:21.81359Z","entity":"article","guid":"80302149-9c8e-4f56-97dd-4a9a38a2dbe2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:57.678636Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484339},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","_id":"621e445945ceed69de4d801e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn arc of piping-hot tea streamed high above my head as the waiter poured the frothy concoction from one tin cup to another, increasing the distance with each pass. In an act that seemingly defied physics, he angled the stream further over my table and channelled the miniature waterfall flawlessly into my glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELooking up from the tableside spectacle across the smoky room, I noticed the other diners around me: a young Indian family returning from the temple across the street; a meeting of sleek-looking bankers hunched over spreadsheets; Muslim students wearing traditional \u003Cem\u003Esongkok\u003C\u002Fem\u003E hats; and a few uniformed street cleaners taking a break from their morning work. It was as if a microcosm of Malaysia was summoned here, drawn by the allure of this bubbly drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETeh tarik\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"pulled tea\" in Malay, is commonly drunk in Southeast Asia, but it's the unofficial national drink of Malaysia, where it was invented. It's a relatively simple mixture of strong black tea, condensed milk and ample sugar, and if you wander through any Malaysian city at any time of day, you'll spot locals of all backgrounds crowded around plastic tables outdoors, sipping mugs of the mocha-coloured drink while chatting about anything and everything.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach family-run stall has their own closely guarded recipe, and the quality of teh tarik is measured by its \"pull\", a theatrical display that aerates the liquid, enhances its deep flavour and helps it develop its quintessential froth that sets it apart from any other tea. Whoever can master this feat becomes a local celebrity with a devout following.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile its sweet, earthy taste is reason enough for teh tarik's popularity, its cultural significance runs much deeper, and the drink is essentially a metaphor for the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estrong sense of tolerance and diversity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Malaysia, we have had many years to familiarise ourselves with living in a multicultural society,\" said Salma Nasution Khoo, an author and social activist from Penang. \"[Despite our differences] everyone is aware of the importance of reverting to a state of equilibrium and mutual respect.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust as Malaysia is a cultural melting pot of indigenous Malay, Chinese, British and South Indian influences, teh tarik is a liquid fusion of its cultures and customs. Black tea was first introduced by the Chinese in the 1830s; the craft of pulling was developed by South Indian street cooks after 1850, and milk and sugar were introduced nearly 100 years later during the end of British colonialism (1867-1957). Because many of the country's cultures contributed to the creation of teh tarik, most Malaysians, regardless of ethnicity, feel attached to it today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions,\" said Mohd Azmi, a cartoonist, author and ex tea puller from George Town. \"We can all still sit together in one place, have the same drink and briefly ignore our differences.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first heard about this tea while in Singapore with Khim Fam, a close friend from Kuala Lumpur. While eating at a Malaysian food stall, he handed me a cup of teh tarik, exclaiming, \"This is my entire country in one glass.\" Perhaps it was my training as an anthropologist, or just my body craving the sugar, but as Fam described the history of the tea, I was enamoured and knew that I needed to learn – and taste – more. A few months later, we sat in the front seats of Fam's car, bouncing down a jungle-covered highway on the start of a 10-day road trip across Malaysia following the trail of teh tarik and its important place in the nation's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOur journey began in the coastal city of Malacca, known for its bustling night markets and brightly painted buildings overlooking the Malacca Straight. It was near here that the Portuguese colonised the region 1511, followed by the Dutch in 1641 and eventually the British, who took control in 1824. In addition to subjugating local Malays, each newcomer also contributed to a butterfly effect of cultural exchange that would eventually shape the country we see today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the origins of Malaysian tea and the invention of teh tarik find their roots in the rubber industry. In 1877, the director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nparks.gov.sg\u002Fsbg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESingapore Botanic Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Henry Nicholas Ridley, imported the first rubber tree from Brazil and British Malaya quickly became the world's largest producer of rubber, relying on imported labour from China and South India to manage tens of thousands of trees. These South Indian immigrants, mostly from Chennai, brought with them a lively enterprise of selling pulled chai, which at the time, was served without milk and made from Chinese black tea. As the Indian-spiced tea became increasingly popular among rubber plantation workers, factory chai stands evolved from a place to find a quick drink to a refuge where vendors, known as \u003Cem\u003Emamaks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"uncle\" in Tamil), welcomed tired labourers to relax and talk amongst friends. Here, the first hints of teh tarik had begun to simmer, but it would be decades before the next piece of teh tarik's origin story began to brew in the mountainous rainforest of central Malaysia. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter Malacca, we drove north into the mountains of the Cameron Highlands and the landscape changed. Flat fields of oil palms gave way to dense tropical jungle where batik-style bamboo houses peeked out of the foliage and rusty road signs warned of tigers in the area. Suddenly our view transformed as tropical ferns were replaced by fields of perfectly manicured tea bushes. As we drove through small villages of English Tudor-style houses and shops, the British influence across the highlands was unmistakable. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's humble 'king of noodles'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaupon: The rebirth of America's forgotten tea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210901-putrajaya-the-capital-city-youve-never-heard-of\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPutrajaya: The capital city you've never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200630-why-are-the-japanese-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFifty years after South Indian merchants first began hawking tea at Malaysian rubber factories, British-born businessman Archibald Russell discovered that the highlands of Central Malaysia were a perfect environment for growing tea. Russell imported plants from China and founded the first Malayan tea plantation in the late 1920s. Malayan tea production rapidly expanded to serve the international market, even withstanding a bloody guerrilla campaign in the region during World War Two. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the area rebuilt its economy after the end of Japanese occupation in 1945, demand for fine Malayan tea was so high that local chai sellers could no longer afford to buy the high-grade leaves from the nearby plantations. They turned to \u003Cem\u003Esarabat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe lowest quality dust and fragments left over from processing, which was much more affordable but had an astringent taste. Adopting the British practice of adding milk and sugar to their brew, South Indian merchants turned to condensed milk to mask the tea's bitterness. Out of desperation and creativity, teh tarik was born. Next, it needed somewhere to grow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe seaside city of George Town, a historical trading port and the largest city on Penang Island, is considered by many Malaysians to be where teh tarik exploded in popularity shortly after World War Two. Strolling through its streets is like a whistle-stop tour of Malaysia itself: towering minarets sit next to brightly painted Hindu statues that sit opposite Buddhist temples. It's a cohesive jumble of diversity, and the perfect place for a drink born from multiculturalism to thrive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is taken very seriously here,\" said Fam, as we drove over the bridge connecting the mainland to Penang. \"If Malaysia is its home, this is its heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the city is arguably the best place to sample the tea, and it can be tasted at some of the country's most renowned mamak stalls and roti shops, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FHeritage-Transfer-Road-Roti-Canai-1118587961632671\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Transfer Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?ref=search&v=646812010031438&external_log_id=a5dd93f1-e960-4a2a-8067-5f081b475759&q=Roti%20Canai%20Jalan%20Argyll\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Jalan Argyll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FPiala.TTAM.Battle.of.Teh.Tarik\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's only tea-pulling competition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was originally born in Penang and now attracts thousands of spectators to the island and other rotating venues each year. As we drove into the Little India neighbourhood near Queen, Chulia and Market streets, I could see tea being majestically pulled on every street corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the story of teh tarik may culminate in the cafes and stalls of George Town today, its story and impact on Malaysian culture is far from over. The drink has recently experienced a new wave of popularity as a symbol for navigating conflict. Stemming from its historical ability to unify disparate groups, organisations throughout Malaysia have begun hosting \"Teh tarik sessions\" in which participants identify common ground and embrace diversity to discuss important issues – much as they would in mamak stalls. The meetings have since been utilised by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fevenesis.com\u002Fonline-events\u002Fevent\u002Fopen-teh-tarik-session-empowering-young-minds-through-leadership\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eschools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and nonprofits to facilitate conversations among students, and even by the national government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thestar.com.my\u002Fnews\u002Fnation\u002F2021\u002F11\u002F30\u002Fresolve-differences-with-deputy-minister-over-teh-tarik-session-azalina-tells-mp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto resolve political impasses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Multiculturalism is the future of all cities and countries,\" said Khoo, \"and in the words of anthropologist AB Shamsul, this is an era of 'talk conflict and walk cohesion'.\" In other words, people must learn to get along in order to cope with the changing world, and teh tarik might just be able to show us how.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince my return from Malaysia, I have often found myself reminiscing about the important lessons that teh tarik can teach. When the news gets depressing or the state of global affairs seems too polarised to reconcile, I find comfort in opening my carefully horded bag of Malaysian black tea and pouring a sweet cup of the soothing beverage. While I've never quite mastered the pull, I can still create a few encouraging bubbles, which remind me that sometimes all it takes is one small commonality and a spoonful of condensed milk to bring people back together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-05T10:08:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Teh tarik: Malaysia's frothy 'national drink'","headlineShort":"The frothy drink that unified a nation","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"3.1390","longitude":"101.6869","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","summaryShort":"Pouring it is a theatrical, gravity-defying display","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-04T21:09:48.049814Z","entity":"article","guid":"7fafffbc-2e86-44b1-a3c5-60b19dccc231","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:37.652102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484341},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","_id":"621e445745ceed69ea633be0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in unexpected ways.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe wait for admission to the Colosseum was approximately three and a half hours. The queue was so long that I initially mistook it for the line leading into the Palatine Hill, as I couldn’t even see the Colosseum when I joined the end of it. It was pouring rain and bitter cold in the middle of May, yet scores of soggy tourists were huddled alongside me in technicolour rain ponchos waiting for the chance to pay \u003Cem\u003E€\u003C\u002Fem\u003E12 (around £10) to be herded into the great arena like wild animals before a gladiatorial hunt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat was when it struck me: in about as much time as it would take to wait in that queue, I could ride the metro to Rome’s airport, hop an 80-minute flight to Tunis and catch a cab 15km to Carthage, where, for a mere 12 Tunisian dinars (£3.30) I could be blissfully alone with equally impressive relics of Roman engineering and architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater that week, I decided to give it a try.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETunisia has suffered a crisis of reputation over the past decade after the revolution that ousted president \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-49752876\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZine al-Abidine Ben Ali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2011 threw the country into turmoil and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-middle-east-16212447\u002Fhow-the-arab-spring-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebegan the broader Arab Spring\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. What had once been a regular haunt for holidaymakers and European artists and intellectuals (Paul Klee, Michel Foucault and Simone de Beauvoir all spent extended stays here) suddenly seemed fierce and untouchable. Those that did venture here often did so in the insulated safety of all-inclusive package tours, which kept them in the close confines of seaside sanctuaries like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.movenpick.com\u002Fen\u002Fafrica\u002Ftunisia\u002Fsousse\u002Fhotel-sousse\u002Foverview\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMövenpick resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sousse.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETunisia’s reputation was further damaged by a pair of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-33394847\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eterror attacks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2015 at the height of ISIS’s international campaign that roiled the country and prompted a major overhaul of anti-terrorism initiatives. The UK government still suggests tourists exercise caution in the region, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.uk\u002Fforeign-travel-advice\u002Ftunisia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enotes that\u003C\u002Fa\u003E “The Tunisian government has improved protective security in major cities and tourist resorts.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most inviting city in Africa?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190723-colombias-buzzing-comeback-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth America's coolest comeback city\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that created a country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite this bump on the road to democracy, now more than ever is the perfect time to visit the Tunisian capital, and to do so on your own terms. The country has emerged from the Arab Spring with a functioning democracy, a stabilising economy and a hunger for tourism. It’s currently the only Arab nation with freedom of expression, and the capital buzzes with young people expressing new ideas through concerts, political rallies, art shows and film festivals, which just a decade earlier would have been impossible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are still ancient Roman and Punic ruins to explore, beaches to enjoy and incredible arts and crafts to bargain for, all unencumbered by crowds. What’s most exciting is that Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in new and unexpected ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the locals leading this charge is Leila Ben Gacem, a social entrepreneur who is committed to saving local crafts and artistry that were at risk of disappearing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When people travel, they want a story, they want to be part of something,” Ben Gacem told me over a plate of roasted lamb and aubergine in the elaborately tiled courtyard of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darbengacem.com\u002Fdar-ben-gacem-kahia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDar Ben Gacem Kahia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of two medieval homes in the vibrant medina of Tunis that she has painstakingly renovated into guesthouses over the last decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When people travel, they want a story, they want to be part of something","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem knows a story when she sees one. After a career working as an engineer around Europe and North Africa, she grew sceptical of foreign investment and development and returned to Tunisia in 2013 to see if she could encourage economic growth by preserving cultural heritage rather than replacing it. She spent months seeking out and listening to the stories of hundreds of artisans in Tunis’ \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F36\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage-listed Medina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – shoemakers, perfumers, woodworkers, bookbinders, milliners, weavers – and founded a leading grassroots organisation, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbluefish.me\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlue Fish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to help them keep their businesses afloat and their crafts alive.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne way to do that: bring the buyers to them. “Our local market is too small to preserve our arts and crafts,” she told me. But by restoring historic homes as guest houses, she’s brought thousands of visitors from around the world into the workshops and storefronts of the Medina’s artisans. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“At first the artisans didn’t understand why people wanted to see their workshops or watch them make hats or slippers,” she said, but now it’s become a symbiotic relationship. Guests receive a customised map with the locations of dozens of workshops and shops full of handmade leather goods, rugs, perfumes and treasures that make for very happy hunting in the warren of souks. As a result, they seek out and support micro businesses that are keeping Tunisian heritage alive. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem also put a small army of craftsmen to work restoring the guesthouses. It took seven years for the gypsum carvers, ceramicists, wood workers and stone layers to restore the first guest house to its former glory. Like the rest of the enchanting Medina, every element of the buildings has a story, from the broad marble slabs on the floor of the courtyard (“We had to remove and label them, one by one, to put in the plumbing,” she told me) to the mismatched columns that were likely repurposed from Roman ruins by the Arabs who founded the Medina in the 7th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem believes that Tunis’ cultural heritage shouldn’t just be preserved, it should be passed down. The guesthouses have become hubs for culture, hosting dinners, lectures and concerts that are open to the public and full of locals from the neighbourhood. She also encourages young artisans to take up apprenticeships and trains local teens in the hospitality industry, so that the cultural legacy of the Medina will stay in the hands of its residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Ben Gacem works to preserve culture inside the Medina, outside its walls a swell of young Tunisians is redefining that cultural heritage through arts, music and design. Among the standouts is Anissa Meddeb, who blends Tunisian textiles and Asian influences to create fresh, fashion-forward clothing for her brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanissaaida.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnissa Aida\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Born and raised in Paris to Tunisian parents, Meddeb studied fashion in New York before deciding to move to Tunis to start her own line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen she first got started in 2016, she said it was tough finding quality fabric in a sea of fast-fashion polyester. So she scoured the small towns in Tunisia to find the best silk, linen and cotton weavers to collaborate with. “I wanted to get back to the roots of artisans,” Meddeb said. It took her months to find the right partners, but now she commissions fabrics from across the country for her line, which is sold in local boutiques like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.muskandambergallery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMusk & Amber\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as well as in shops across Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Meddeb why a rising design star would move from a fashion mecca to Tunis, she was clear: “There’s an energy in Tunis now, especially with younger artists. People have something to say.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There’s an energy in Tunis now, especially with younger artists. People have something to say.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers looking to tap into that energy, and the beautiful design that goes with it, head to the neighbourhoods north of downtown Tunis. Closest to the city centre, in Mutuelleville, stop by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Flartisanerietunisie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL’artisanerie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for hand-woven plant hangers and decorated mirrors, then visit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmoojastore\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMooja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FElyssaArtisanat\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElyssa Artisanat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to try on the latest in Tunisian fashion. In the trendy La Marsa neighbourhood, you’ll find contemporary pottery in a fresh black-and-white palette at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNOA.Atelier\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoa Atelier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; a floor-to-ceiling selection of handwoven \u003Cem\u003Efoutas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a traditional towel perfect for the beach or your guest bathroom) at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FHager+Fouta\u002F@36.8834655,10.3315745,18.51z\u002Fdata=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xadb094efbf935cc2!8m2!3d36.8834812!4d10.3314571\"\u003EHager Fouta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and streetwear with cheeky phrases like “The Harissa People” (a nod to Tunisia’s piping-hot chilli paste) in Arabic calligraphy at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flyoum.fr\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ELyoum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Finish your tour in the seaside neighbourhood of Sidi Bou Said, where, tucked among the charming blue-and-white houses, you’ll find \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frockthekasbah.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERock the Kasbah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a quirky homewares store built into a traditional house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut great design isn’t the only thing you’ll find dotted among the luxurious houses and charming villages along the northern coast. It is also where you’ll find those world-class Roman ruins I escaped the Eternal City to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELong before there was Tunis, there was Carthage, the ancient Phoenician port city that was Rome’s arch-rival for centuries. In the epic poem the Aeneid\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe Roman poet Virgil tells how Carthage’s founder, queen Dido, fled Tyre in present-day Lebanon and landed in North Africa. When she pleaded for a scrap of land from the leader of the local tribe, he tossed an ox hide on the ground, saying she could have the land the hide covered. In a deft move of both semantics and surgery, she sliced the hide into thin ribbons and encircled an entire hill just above the port with it. This is Byrsa Hill, the best place to start a day of exploring the Punic and Roman ruins of Carthage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, Byrsa Hill, which is dotted with villas and mansions, looks more like Beverly Hills than a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F37\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But unlike Beverly Hills, if you want to put a pool in your Byrsa backyard, you better call an archaeologist first. For centuries, one civilisation after another built homes on this piece of prime real estate, and digging just a few metres down can turn up African red slip pottery or the remains of a Roman mosaic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the hilltop offers sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea and a few Punic and Roman-era ruins, its main attraction, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.patrimoinedetunisie.com.tn\u002Feng\u002Fmusees\u002Fcarthage.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Carthage Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is closed for renovation until further notice. Instead, stick to the sites at the foot of the hill: one ticket gets you into all eight major sites, which are within walking distance or a short cab ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy favourite of the eight is the Tophet, or Punic, cemetery. It may be one of Carthage’s more diminutive sites, but its grisly history lends it an outsized role. Here, the ancient Phoenicians offered child sacrifices to the goddess Tanit and commemorated each one by erecting a sacrificial stone engraved with her image: a circle perched on a triangle, with outstretched arms. Dozens of these stones are clustered among a grotto of palms, in a placid but eerie scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust up the road, the Antonine Baths cut a more imposing figure. The series of sand-coloured arches and marble pillars were part of a cistern and public bath constructed during the Roman era, one of the largest ever made. The complex is so vast that on my last visit I watched a lone Tunisian boy scout spend nearly 20 minutes trying to find his troop in a game of Sardines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those with an even greater hunger for ancient history (and a rental car on hand), a day trip to Dougga is well worth the effort. Just two hours’ drive south-west of the capital, Dougga is the best preserved Roman city in North Africa. The vast \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F794\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E complex, with its imposing Roman forum and temple, stands alone on a hill overlooking vast plains bursting with yellow wildflowers in the spring and amber grain throughout summer and autumn. You can spend hours wandering through the warren of well-preserved streets, imagining what life in the Roman town must have been like, and do it with the peace one can never find in Europe. Both times I visited, in April and June, I had the place entirely to myself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETunis may not have Rome beat in every category (the food, which is heavy on a trifecta of eggs, tinned tuna and harissa, often leaves something to be desired), but it doesn’t have to. As Tunis folds its past into its future, it is creating its own legacy as a capital of culture, history and freedom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-27T15:05:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why Tunis could be the new Rome","headlineShort":"Could this city be the new Rome?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in unexpected ways.","summaryShort":"It’s creating its own legacy as a capital of culture, history and freedom","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:43:31.994514Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f6c0679-3b2f-489c-bb78-aa3bfca50dce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:02:59.69357Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484341},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","_id":"621e445a45ceed64d82931ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When Mohammed Bennani took over his ancestral home, he inherited a special legacy: the habous of couscous, a Tunisian philanthropic tradition of providing couscous to people in need.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the western edge of Tunis' medina, beneath a loud mural of football graffiti, I arrived at an almost invisible arched door set in a pale pink stone doorway carved with flowers. As I pressed the doorbell, I heard shuffling inside and the loud turning of an old lock. The door swung open, and Mohammed Bennani beckoned me inside. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeit y Bennani (The House of Bennani) is Bennani's ancestral home, but is also home to a private library housing books, documents, photographs, periodicals and letters related not only to the history of Tunisia but its laws, religion, food, fashion, society and the occasional delicious morsel of gossip and scandal. Most of the archives come from the grand families of Tunisia, many of whom donated family photographs and old magazines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09scv21.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I'm in love with sharing my knowledge with people. I built a library, at first, for my own learning but I cannot just keep it to myself – sharing is the real joy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Mohammed Bennani, archivist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBennani ushered me into the house's inner courtyard, where hand-painted tiles lined crumbling turquoise window frames and a rampant red bougainvillea arced over a door that led to his laboratory. There, he and students from the Zitouna University in Tunis carefully restore and conserve fragile or damaged books and documents. It was high summer, and the walls of the courtyard carved out a square of cobalt Tunisian sky for us to sit under as we sipped coffee and talked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is not a wholly traditional Tunisian house; it is a mixed house,\" said Bennani. Some of its style is Tunisian, some of it Turkish, but all the architectural elements and decoration come together in what he calls \"a happy accident\", creating an oasis of calm from the hustle and bustle of downtown Tunis. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My father died in the 1980s, and because he grew up in a patriarchal society, before he died he told my mother that the house should be left to his sons,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt that time, though, he and his brother were pursuing their careers abroad: Bennani as an economics journalist for the state news agency and Tunisian Africa Press bureau in Belgium; and his brother dentistry in France. Thus it was their mother who watched over the family home until her death in 1995. By then, Bennani and his brother had returned to the house, living in the upper apartments. As Tunisian inheritance obeys the Islamic Sharia, their sisters' shares of the inheritance should have been half of their brothers'. However, they divided the property up equally and bought out their sisters' shares to establish the library and archive on the ground floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The tradition comes from an Islamic hadith","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, with the house came an additional inheritance: the legacy of the \"habous of couscous\", a philanthropic tradition of providing a meal of couscous, Tunisia's most iconic dish, to people in need from the local mosque.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECouscous is as old as the Amazigh, the original people of the Maghreb, an area that encompasses much of northern Africa. Traditionally, women would hand roll ground semolina to make the granular pasta in summer before drying and storing it to feed their families year round. The cooked dish was (and still is) made by steaming the couscous in a \u003Cem\u003Ecouscousiere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a double-chambered pot) over a spicy stew of meat or fish and vegetables. The sauce created from cooking would be mixed into the cooked couscous, and the meat and vegetables laid decoratively on top and garnished with fried long green peppers. Traditionally, diners would all eat from the same big platter, making it an ideal dish to offer to those who come hungry. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHabous is the North African name for the Muslim tradition of \u003Cem\u003Ewaqf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an endowment made to a charitable cause. It originates from an Islamic hadith, where Omar ibn al-Khattâb, a companion of the Prophet Mohammed asked what he could do with his land that would be pleasing to Allah. The prophet advised distributing profits among the poor, and thus the tradition was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beit y Bennani (The House of Bennani) is Bennani's ancestral home","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We have three shop spaces inside the medina, which we rent out to merchants; the rent money pays for a large platter of couscous for poor people to eat after \u003Cem\u003EJu'muah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Friday prayers),\" Bennani said.  Originally, when Bennani's family started the tradition, the housekeeper would cook a huge pot of couscous with lamb, which is traditional and something the poor could not afford to buy for themselves, though now, Bennani serves vegetarian couscous. He explained that his couscous always includes wedges of pumpkin, cabbage, whole onions, carrots, potato and one or two seasonal vegetables such as cardoons in winter and courgettes in summer, which is all topped with long green peppers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Tunis could be the new Rome\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210415-the-fortified-cities-on-the-fringes-of-the-sahara\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cities that banned the selfie\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181101-a-journey-to-a-moroccan-village-frozen-in-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Moroccan village frozen in time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt this point, Bennani jumped up from his seat and gestured for me to follow him to the house's back entrance, into a high vaulted hall of pale grey stone lined with tiled benches set into the wall. There, he opened a small door and enacted the arrival of visitors who had just come from prayer at the mosque. \"The family would leave this back door open so worshippers could enter quietly, eat the couscous and then leave discreetly,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Bennaniis have lived in this house since 1813. However, when Tunisia won its independence from France in 1956, the tradition of habbous couscous was abolished by the first president of the Republic, Habib Bourguiba. \"But my father and mother did not accept this, and they continued to do the Friday couscous dinners,\" Bennani said. However, he continued, \"After 1970, they stopped the couscous. They gave money because the poor didn't want [to be given] things to eat anymore.\" According to Bennani, the Bourguiba regime brought in food subsidies to help the poor eat well, but that they still needed money to buy other essentials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The House of Bennani has a private library of books, documents, photographs, and letters","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBennani reinstated the tradition of habous of couscous following his mother's death. At first, he would bring a huge plate of couscous to the nearby mosque, but later offered it to visitors at the house. Now, the couscous dinners are held every Wednesday during the academic terms. \"I reintroduced couscous to create a sociable [weekly event] to complement the other activities of Beit el Bennani,\" he explained. Aside from the workings of the library, Bennani has always had an open-door policy for \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcatalog.crl.edu\u002Fsearch\u002FY?searchtype=d&SORT=D&searcharg=histoire&searchscope=32&submit.x=24&submit.y=14\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural activities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E such as outdoor screenings of documentaries, films and photographs, where \"young people come and watch sitting on carpets in the courtyard\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll are welcome, he says, and he has received visitors from as far afield as the US and Japan, though most of his couscous diners are cash-strapped students hailing from the poorer regions of Tunisia. \"They are the new poor,\" he explained. \"They come from the deprived region of the interior, not from the capital.\" Bennani's weekly couscous dinners not only fill their bellies, but feed their minds as well. Students make friends and discuss ideas, while Bennani indulges in his greatest love: sharing knowledge from his latest archival discoveries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the medina's labyrinthine streets, Bennani showed me the shop spaces he rents to provide the money for the habous, on Rue des Libraries (Street of Bookshops), a cobbled street shaded from the harsh summer sun by a roof made of dried palm fronds. The street once lined with booksellers is now filled mostly with jewellers, watchmakers and trinket shops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe then walked over to Tunis' grand Marche Centrale, where he buys the vegetables for his couscous. He introduced me to his favourite vendors, cracking jokes with anyone who stopped to greet him. At one stall, he showed me the shiny green peppers beloved in Tunisian cuisine. He explained that onion, carrot, pumpkin and potato are staple vegetables in a Tunisian couscous, but others like courgettes and white and purple turnips are used when they are in season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mohammed Bennani buys vegetables for his couscous at Tunis' Marche Centrale","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross the Maghreb region, from Libya and Tunisia in the east to Algeria, Morocco and Mauritania in the west, bread and couscous are staple foods. These countries have argued over which is the original home of couscous, but in December 2020, \"the knowledge, know-how and practices related to the production and consumption of couscous\" was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einscribed in U\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\"\u003Enesco's \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\"\u003Elist of Intangible Cultural Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, honouring all the countries that share the traditional dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach nation has its own couscous variations – for example, Morocco uses sweet spices like cinnamon, while Tunisia is known for its love of harissa, a spicy red pepper paste – but even Tunisian couscous recipes vary widely from region to region. In the southern city of Zarzis, for instance, green couscous with dill is popular, while on the coast in Sousse, locals love brown couscous with snails. However, the best-known couscous is a marriage of lamb and tomatoes that hails from Sidi Bouzid, which incorporates \u003Cem\u003Efilfil ahmer shaya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the smoky flavoured dried red peppers from the Cap Bon peninsula that go into the country's famous harissa), a garnish of peppers and cumin from the holy city of Kairouan, and vegetables grown in the west of the country. It's truly a national dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's truly a national dish","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEssentially, Bennani's Wednesday feasts offer visitors an important taste of Tunisian culture and identity. And whether through food or the library, he has been playing an important role in preserving Tunisian heritage inside the house and sharing it with the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor him, collecting pieces of history has become a noble obsession, either from buying or having libraries and archives donated, such as hand-painted inscriptions of the 99 names of Allah. Recently, he acquired documents relating to the once-dynamic trade and diplomatic relations between Malta, Britain and Tunisia, all handwritten in swirling copperplate script weighted with stamps of the former British empire. He lovingly restores each piece before filing them on the library shelves or securing the most precious documents in a giant safe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tunisian families donated family photographs and old magazines to Mohammed Bennani","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome collections – such as such as the 8,155 photographs of Tunisian photographer Mustapha Bouchoucha (1900-1969) who documented people and life across the Maghreb and Europe – are digitised and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dlir.org\u002Fabout-bouchoucha.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eavailable online\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Everything is categorised and indexed in an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcatalog.crl.edu\u002Fsearch\u002FY?searchtype=d&SORT=D&searcharg=histoire&searchscope=32&submit.x=24&submit.y=14\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline catalogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E so that students and researchers in Tunisia or beyond can easily gain access – though Bennani seems to know the location of everything in the archive by heart. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis face lit up as he described finding a new library or bundle of documents as \"discovering \u003Cem\u003Eun\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Emille d'or\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", a golden treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tunisians always have open arms, always welcoming and hospitable","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When I find a piece of paper on the floor, I restore it, care for it and then one day, a researcher comes and they need that paper for their thesis – that gives me such joy and fulfilment,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBennani believes that his archive of historical texts and images can educate current and future generations on how the country can take its rightful place in the world, recalling the past when it was one of the great trading nations – one that happens to be known for its culinary riches of olive oil, grains and spices – of the Mediterranean. Whether through Tunisia's history, food or cultural customs such as habous, he invites Tunisians – and visitors who are fascinated by this land of green hills, mountains, sea and desert – to feast upon its past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Bennani, \"Tunisians always have open arms, always welcoming and hospitable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-16T14:25:08.485Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"House of Bennani: the library of the habous of couscous","headlineShort":"The couscous meal built on generosity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Couscous is considered Tunisia's most iconic dish","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.7985461","longitude":"10.1604464","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Couscous is considered Tunisia's most iconic dish","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When Mohammed Bennani took over his ancestral home, he inherited a special legacy: habous of couscous, a Tunisian philanthropic tradition of providing couscous to people in need.","summaryShort":"Here, weekly feasts offer visitors an important taste of Tunisian culture","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-16T17:21:18.335461Z","entity":"article","guid":"300ca228-ea1f-4ef7-b85d-92b8c42bcfb7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:32:39.523606Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484342},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","_id":"621e445245ceed68134857ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Felizia-volkmann"],"bodyIntro":"When blended with olive oil and honey, this unassuming brown powder – which has been eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia – transforms into a breakfast of champions.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong the curving bay of Tunisia's southern Gulf of Hammamet is the pretty village of Lamta, marked by its ornate blue and white doorways, eclectic architecture and shops selling bsissa, a nutritious food that has been loved and eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, this simple beige-coloured powder is based on the regional staples of roasted hard durum wheat and barley that have been flavoured with fennel seed, aniseed and marjoram, and then ground. It's often augmented with ground nuts – roasted pulses such as chickpeas, lentils or fava beans – and other additions like ground sesame seeds and carob, to ramp up its already substantial nutritional value. When blended with olive oil and honey into a thick cream and decorated with roasted nuts, this unassuming brown dust – a veritable ugly duckling of the food world – transforms into a breakfast of champions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs people today search for the next \"superfood\", this ancient powder is becoming increasingly popular in North Africa and beyond for its purported health benefits. Locals have learned that the bsissa their mum once made them for breakfast is as good as – if not better than – any trendy protein shake. Being high in complex carbohydrates and fibre, it releases energy slowly, has 15 to 18g of protein per 100g, and is packed with vitamin C as well as minerals including iron, potassium, zinc, magnesium and calcium. More and more, it's becoming available on menus at cafes and a growing number of eco-hotels that offer yoga retreats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkydgn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A spoonful of a thick, brown mixture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, long before hipster kitchens buzzed to the sound of power smoothies, farmers and caravan drivers in the Maghreb – which runs from Libya in the east of North Africa to the Atlantic seaboard of Morocco – carried sacks of bsissa to ensure they'd have a good source of nutrition, even in the middle of the Sahara Desert. Serving as North Africa's original convenience food, it could either be mixed with olive oil, or with water and fruits to create a satisfying meal-shake called \u003Cem\u003Erowina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe past few years living in Tunis, I started noticing new types of bsissa in shops and eateries, including gluten-free versions, and the food was becoming a regular topic of conversation. During lunch in the capital city one day, a new acquaintance told me that her mother is from Lamta, where an annual bsissa festival is held, and gave me the contact information of the festival organisers so I could learn more about why bsissa is so important to the town. When I called the number, Khairi Sassi, a young, enterprising entrepreneur, picked up and invited me to visit his family's bsissa business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESassi and his family's lives revolve around the making and selling of bsissa. In their small shop, which is crowded with shelves housing packets of bsissa powder, his father Dalel ladled out \u003Cem\u003Ezrir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a Tunisian dessert made of sesame seeds, nuts such as hazelnuts and pine nuts, butter and honey – into plastic pots. Dalel gave me a spoon so I could dig in and taste it, which is often sold alongside bsissa as its more luxurious counterpart, while Sassi showed me all the different types of bsissa available for sale and told me about his business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We all work together as a family – mum, dad, my sister and me,\" Sassi said. \"My mum used to work in an office and hated it, so we set up the workshop and we financed it all ourselves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyg3k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man stands left with hands in his jacket pockets","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe then headed to the family's home in a working-class seafront neighbourhood. On its ground floor was a small, modern and scrupulously clean bsissa-making workshop, where I was greeted by the smell of roasting wheat along with a warm smile and handshake from Sassi's mother, Zahia Bousrhi. She showed me the entire process, pouring the hot roasted wheat into large metal bowls and measuring out other ingredients including chickpeas, beans, almonds and spices. Once everything is mixed, it's packed up and taken to the local miller, who grinds it into the finished product: an unassuming looking but flavour-packed powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBousrhi took me outside and pointed out the home built on top of the workshop. She said, \"I built those three floors – everything good that I have comes from bsissa.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it. However, it's more than just something to eat to Tunisians. It's also a marker of major life events such as weddings, births and moving into a new home, as well as holidays and other special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything good that I have comes from bsissa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it. However, it's more than just something to eat to Tunisians. It's also a marker of major life events such as weddings, births and moving into a new home, as well as holidays and other special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Bsissa is linked to our traditions and festivals,\" said Saoussen Baccar, co-owner of a family-run delicatessen called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAyemZmenTN\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAyem Zmen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E located in Tunis' chic seaside suburb of La Marsa. \"When a couple gets married, they present the bride with bowl of bsissa decorated with toasted nuts and dried fruit. We give a special type of bsissa to a woman as she prepares for birth and another for when she is breastfeeding.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELibyan and Tunisian Jews eat it when celebrating Al Bsissa, a uniquely Maghrebian feast that follows the spring festival of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnewsround\u002F56210745\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPurim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and augurs the season of Passover. Traditionally, the mother of the family would stir the olive oil into the bsissa with the key to the house, signifying wealth and the protection of the home. Or, sometimes, the women would put their gold jewellery into the bsissa as it is being mixed to symbolise how Jewish women gave up all their gold to pay for the Mishkan (or tabernacle) that served as the temporary home for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FArk-of-the-Covenant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArk of the Covenant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as described in the Book of Exodus when Moses and the Israelites wandered in search of their promised land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Islam arrived in North Africa in the 7th and 8th Centuries, bsissa became a Ramadan essential as part of Suhoor, the meal eaten before sunrise when fasting begins. My travel companion, Lazahr Gamoudi, a consultant who has worked on agricultural development projects all over Tunisia, told me that before modern transportation, when people walked or travelled in camel trains, they took sacks of bsissa as supplies to ensure they ate well for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002Fhajj\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHajj\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the pilgrimage to Mecca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyh9d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A woman scoops and pours grains out of a large basket into a smaller dish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBsissa is a mercurial dish that not only varies by religion but also by season and by which part of the country it's eaten in. \"Each region has its own tradition of bsissa,\" explained Baccar. \"[The island of] Djerba uses sorghum but only in winter; [the city of] Sousse makes bsissa from roasted lentils; some use beans. We always use ground nuts or \u003Cem\u003Ehelba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fenugreek seeds), though not everyone likes the strong flavour, and carob powder and sesame too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe offered me a bowl of Sfaxien bsissa made from chickpeas, as it's gluten free, perfect for a coeliac like me, along with a box of dates. \"You use the date like a spoon,\" she said. The pasty, golden bsissa hit my tastebuds with a rich nuttiness that was simultaneously silky and sticky, demanding me to chew slowly and revel in an almost contemplative way of eating. Fast food this is not, and after three scoops of it with plump dates, I was satisfied.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EApart from the typical regional variations, Baccar creates her own signature bsissa blends using various health foods, from an oat-based bsissa with dates and figs to a sugar-free bsissa. She is proudest of her moringa bsissa. Moringa powder, made from the leaves of a tree nicknamed the \"Miracle Tree\", which is cultivated in South-east Asia and East Africa, has recently become very popular due its nutrient content including high levels of calcium making it a plant-based alternative to dairy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm always doing research into new types of healthy foods to introduce to Tunisia,\" she said. \"[Bsissa] is a food that is very easy to eat – a few spoonfuls and you feel full. Durum wheat is a source of protein that can replace animal protein for vegetable protein. It has antioxidants, vitamin E, vitamins B1, B6, B9, zinc; it's very rich, and mixed with olive oil, you gain the benefits of the good fats and oleic acids.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyjdz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A storefront with a blue and white striped door","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll of Baccar's ingredient sourcing and recipe development is carefully monitored, including the honey, which she buys from local producers, and she tests and analyses every batch to ensure the highest quality. \"We collaborate with nutritionists,\" she said. \"For example, dietary fibre is important for digestive transit, but you need the right amount; too much and you create other problems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBaccar's bsissa is very successful, and her shop that has housed the family business since 1966 is now too small, with customers regularly queuing to get in. To meet the demand, she and her husband have built \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAyemZmenTN\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea new food hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to open in February. She explained how visitors to Tunisia are trying bsissa for breakfast in hotels or at Tunisian friend's houses, and are getting hooked. And an appetite for bsissa is growing internationally as Tunisians living abroad in France and Australia are now packaging and selling bsissa as a stylish health food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, if there's one must-go place to eat bsissa in Tunisia, it's Lamta. The town's annual (apart from being cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to Covid) bsissa festival began back in May 2001 and attracts visitors from the wider Maghreb, as well as people from as far afield as Italy and Indonesia. According to Sana Saleh, president of the committee that organises the festival, it was \"set it up to support the intangible heritage of Lamta and to support the Lamtiens\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyj8l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man and woman stand in the doorway of a small food shop","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the festival, visitors can sample different varieties of bsissa, as well as other local dishes, and the event culminates in a competition for the best bsissa. Recent gold medal winners Salma Saleh and her husband Najib Rajeb, who run Bsissa Salma just off the main drag, boast the most expensive bsissa in Lamta. Their cousin Selim popped into the shop and wielded a disposable spoon with delight, scooping up some of their \"Bsissa Royale\" made from \u003Cem\u003Edraa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sorghum) and \u003Cem\u003Ezoughou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a typical Tunisian flavouring made with ground nuts from the Aleppo pine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Draa is the best, it has your A, B, C vitamins!\" exclaimed Selim.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll the bsissas we tasted were delicious, but tasting the Bsissa Royal with its aromatic and slightly spicy flavour made me understand why it won the top prize. Gamoudi, my travel buddy and \"taster\" (since I couldn't eat any wheat-based bsissa), enjoyed bsissa so much that he bought several packets of it for his daughter, as the healthy on-the-go snack is a working parent's friend. It was a perfect snack for us, too: the spoonfuls we tasted meant we had no desire for lunch before our journey back to Tunis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-31T10:25:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bsissa: North Africa's ancient convenience food","headlineShort":"North Africa's ancient convenience food","image":["p0bkybmt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Baskets of colourful grains","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.0826634","longitude":"10.2736844","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Baskets of colourful grains","promoImage":["p0bkybmt"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When blended with olive oil and honey, this unassuming brown powder – which has been eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia – transforms into a breakfast of champions.","summaryShort":"It's becoming increasingly popular as a health food","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-activities","tag\u002Fhospitality"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-30T22:26:40.558013Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1e49eb5-477a-4966-b9be-4b15b630f52b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:07.847703Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftunisia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_tunisia_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484341},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","_id":"621e445945ceed67ff3d1973","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Italy has a number of age-old pastries that resemble genitalia, like cannoli. But while they may induce a few giggles nowadays, their origins are linked to serious traditions.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Yup, it looks like one","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaples has \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Rome has \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Sicily has cannoli. Arguably Italy's most famous dessert, cannoli are proudly displayed in nearly every Sicilian cafe and \u003Cem\u003Epasticceria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, honoured on the island's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitsicily.info\u002Fen\u002Fcannoli-siciliani-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eofficial website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and immortalised by Sicilians in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Farts-entertainment\u002Ffilms\u002Ffeatures\u002Fstory-of-the-scene-the-godfather-1972-870492.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Godfather\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with the famous line, \"Leave the gun, take the cannoli.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut if you've ever seen a cannolo and thought, \"yup, it looks like one,\" you're not alone. The beloved Sicilian sweet does indeed resemble a phallus – and for good reason.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELegend has it that in the Sicilian city of Caltanissetta during Arab rule (around 1000AD), a harem of women created the treat – a fried, tubular pastry shell made of flour, sugar and butter that's filled with sweet and creamy ricotta cheese – to exalt their emir's masculinity. While this story can't be proven, as there are no written records, the notion of erotic pastries dates back centuries. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Ancient Greece, during the Thesmophoria festivities \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=XR9YIaG0kIcC&pg=PA68&lpg=PA68&dq=cakes+breast+offering+isis&source=bl&ots=duRlQrqyg0&sig=ACfU3U24pZuPQ-olnusQe8c3aF1SGoYK7A&hl=it&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiy5vy444zuAhVmFlkFHVWPCSg4ChDoATACegQIARAC#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein honour of goddesses Persephone and Demeter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, people consumed honey and sesame cakes in the shape of breasts to celebrate fertility and motherhood. The practice, which is thought to have originated in earlier rites held in Ancient Egypt to worship goddess Isis, later spread to the rest to the Mediterranean and to pre-Roman Sicily.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171221-what-you-dont-know-about-panettone\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat you don't know about panettone\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200928-the-surprising-origin-of-burrata-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising origin of burrata\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrance's fight over chocolate pastry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Maria Oliveri, an expert in cultural heritage studies from the city of Palermo, sexual organs were not considered taboo in the ancient Greek and Roman worlds but were revered as symbols of abundance. “The sexual shapes of Sicilian desserts derive from that ancient world. Back then, it was important to have many children, as they would cultivate the land and provide for the family,” Oliveri said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the 11th Century, the Norman conquerors had converted Sicily to Catholicism, and ancient traditions had \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?hl=it&lr=&id=XR9YIaG0kIcC&oi=fnd&pg=PA67&dq=sexual+shapes+in+sicilian+pastry&ots=duQtSxoAk0&sig=RZSS_21rR0BvMbGfRcp6tY3rd8k#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emixed with Catholic traditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; winter solstice observations blended into Christmas, and fertility rites merged into Easter. The age-old desserts endured and were preserved by nuns, who made the confections inside their convents for festivals and religious holidays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor example, \u003Cem\u003Ecassata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a round ricotta cake usually decorated with marzipan, nuts and candied fruits), thought to be born during Arab rule to celebrate spring's renewal, became an Easter (and Passover) specialty. And like cannoli, a number of other age-old Italian desserts with erotic shapes have been passed down through the ages. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fricette.giallozafferano.it\u002FMinne-di-Sant-Agata.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMinne Di Sant'Agata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or Minni di Virgini (a ricotta-filled half sphere topped with white icing and a candied cherry) was made to look like a breast in honour of St Agatha, a Roman-era martyr whose breasts were cut off for refusing the advances of a man, while the Feddi ru Cancillieri (cream and apricot jam wedged between two almond cookies) was created in jest to resemble the buttocks of a chancellor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nuns didn’t make erotic-shaped desserts because they were sexually repressed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Nuns didn’t make erotic-shaped desserts, as some people would think, because they were sexually repressed and wanted to have fun, but because they inherited an ancient tradition,” Oliveri said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince the time of Ancient Greece, the making and therefore consumption of edible symbols was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=dwMNIZXCKg0C&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eassociated with the ritual of sacrifice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and was thought to bring people closer to the gods. As this notion carried over into Catholicism, nuns were allowed to develop the confectionary despite medieval monastic rules that prohibited gluttony.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Carnival – a pre-Lenten celebration rooted in an ancient festival honouring Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and ecstasy (Dionysus in Greek) – the rules were bent further. According to Dario Mangano, a semiologist at Università degli Studi di Palermo who wrote a dissertation on the semiotics of Sicilian desserts, rules sometimes need to be overturned to be reaffirmed – and Carnival allowed for just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was the only time during the year when catholic prudery would leave way for excess and uninhibited self-expression – and was the time to eat cannoli. Men would give the tubular sweet to women to hint at their sexual desires, singing, \"\u003Cem\u003EOgni cannolu è scettru d' ogni Re... lu cannolu è la virga di Mosè\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" (Every cannolo is the sceptre of every king… the cannolo is the penis of Moses).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESadly, most convents that have used the traditional recipes for cannoli (like Abbazia Nova in Palermo) have closed down, and only a handful of older nuns still know how to make them. And while cannoli are now ubiquitous across Italy, the best and most \"authentic\" ones can arguably only be found in a few Sicilian cafes such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caffesicilia.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaffè Sicilia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Noto, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Feurobardattilo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuro Bar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dattilo and some places in the commune of \u003Ca title=\"Piana degli Albanesi\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dissapore.com\u002Flocali\u002Fcannoli-siciliani-meglio-dattilo-o-piana-degli-albanesi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPiana degli Albanesi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo help save the tradition, Oliveri opened a new pastry shop in 2017 inside the Monastero di Santa Caterina in Palermo called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isegretidelchiostro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI segreti del chiostro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The secrets of the cloister), where she makes sweets from recipes she found through archival research and from aristocratic families that had acquired them from Sicilian convents. Unlike most shops that use industrially produced cannoli shells, Oliveri makes her own from scratch, preparing the dough, cutting it into circles, wrapping it on tubular moulds and then frying it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe day we spoke on the phone, she had just finished making 900 of them. According to her, handmade cannoli are tastier than the mass-produced ones because they are fried and sold right away, maintaining their intended crunchiness and flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECorrado Assenza, pastry chef and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caffesicilia.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaffè Sicilia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and featured on Netflix \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=QFXaQpFsTNk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), is the heir apparent of modern Sicilian pastry making. While other pastry chefs make several cannoli variants, such as rolling them in pistachio granule or filling them with chocolate-flavoured ricotta, he follows the simpler traditional recipe and fills his shells to order, so they remain crispy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Cannoli has become Sicily’s icon,” Assenza said. “And for me it is the manifest of contemporary food culture, in the version we propose at Caffè Sicilia.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAssenza stresses that great ingredients are fundamental for great cannoli. For example, for more than 20 years, he has used ricotta made by Franzo Spada, a local shepherd and owner of La Pecora Nera dairy, who practices transhumance (an ancient practice of moving sheep to seasonal grazing areas), believing that better foraging leads to better milk, and therefore, better ricotta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The ricotta that arrives at the cafe three times a week is a unique heritage,\" he said. \"Nothing has to disturb [the shell and filling] because you need to leave space to flour, ricotta and the other ingredients, to become a micro masterpiece.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EApart from the ones made by traditionalists like Assenza and Oliveri, most Sicilian cannoli have changed in flavour and ingredients over time – due to technological advancement and the influence of other cultures – and have spread around the world. Nowadays, for instance, you can find variations such as multi-flavoured cannoli in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nycgo.com\u002Fboroughs-neighborhoods\u002Fmanhattan\u002Flittle-italy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew York's Little Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mikespastry.com\u002Fmenu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoston's North End\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hy-vee.com\u002Frecipes-ideas\u002Frecipes\u002Fmaple-bacon-cannolis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eversion with maple and bacon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sweden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite the departures from the original, the cannolo's structure – which makes it so hard to eat without creating a mess – has remained the same. \"If cannoli is more than 1,000 years old, it's because it met the taste of every epoch,\" Assenza said. \"I hope that it will remain a popular sweet that many will buy.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-14T20:56:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The erotic origins of Italy's most famous sweet","headlineShort":"The erotic design of Italian pastries","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Italy has a number of age-old pastries that resemble genitalia, like cannoli. But while they may induce a few giggles nowadays, their origins are linked to serious traditions.","summaryShort":"Their origins are linked to serious traditions dating back to Ancient Egypt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:11.076256Z","entity":"article","guid":"4753c281-6222-49ec-b5e7-0b7304130c0c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:03.413946Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484343},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6f3509bb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A chef is unearthing recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks to reveal the origin of Italian food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's sunset in Rome, outside the city walls. Golden light filters through umbrella pines and casts its glow on a straight stretch of smooth basalt stones that changed the course of history. This is the Appian Way, the first road built in Rome, where more than 2,000 years ago soldiers set out to conquer distant lands and returned in triumph.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Romans were nature lovers and sensual pleasure seekers who greatly appreciated good food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road is the heart of Rome's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAppia Antica Archaeological Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an expansive green wedge that stretches from the edge of the city's historical centre to the hillside villages of the Castelli Romani. This 4,700-hectare oasis is the second largest urban park in Europe – dotted with aqueducts, nature reserves, archaeological sites, vineyards, pastures and villas owned by such luminaries as designer Valentino and actress Gina Lollobrigida.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELess than 3km from the Colosseum's crowds, the \u003Cem\u003Eparco\u003C\u002Fem\u003E gives travellers a place to slow down and leisurely experience the Roman countryside, complete with birdsong and sightings of shepherds leading their flocks. The scattering of ruins adds a certain \u003Cem\u003Ememento mori \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethat enchanted painters and poets of the Grand Tour, as you feel the circle of life standing on this old road: soft breeze carrying the scent of fresh grass, crumbling stones carrying stories from the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs this is Italy, good food must complete the idyllic scene. Enter Paolo Magnanimi, of the Appian Way's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhostariaanticaroma.plateform.app\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHostaria Antica Roma\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The restaurant is located within sight of the park's iconic Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella and fronted by a flower and vegetable garden tended by Magnanimi's father, Massimo. Inside, the menu lists dishes that can't be found at any other restaurant in the city, or perhaps in the world. Behind these creations is Magnanimi, a cook passionate about creating and serving meals that are deeply rooted in this park's history, from the days of ancient Rome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor most, ancient Roman food doesn't sound appealing. What first comes to mind are freakish scenes like Trimalchio's banquet in the 1st-Century AD story \u003Cem\u003ESatyricon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where a nouveau riche host throws an ostentatious feast that includes such \"delicacies\" as bull's testicles, sow's udders and a hare decorated with wings to resemble Pegasus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180604-has-rome-declared-an-artichoke-war\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHas Rome declared an artichoke war?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191103-the-worlds-oldest-known-recipes-decoded\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's oldest known recipes decoded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Magnanimi keeps it real, recreating delicious dishes that regular Romans ate, not the exotic fare that was reserved for the super elite. A chef and historian who has spent more than 25 years studying ancient recipes, Magnanimi says Romans were nature lovers and sensual pleasure seekers who greatly appreciated good food, though over-indulging was very \"un-Roman\". Grains, legumes, vegetables, eggs and cheeses were the base of the diet, with fruit and honey for sweetness. Meat (mostly pork), and fish were used sparingly, and as the empire expanded beginning in the 3rd Century BC, Romans welcomed new flavours – be it pepper from India or lemons from Persia. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171011-the-ancient-condiment-that-came-back-from-the-dead\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, similar to an Asian fish sauce, was liberally used to add a rich umami flavour to Roman dishes. All this was enjoyed with honeyed wine at dinners called \u003Cem\u003Econvivium\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – gatherings to celebrate life and the seasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi embodies this spirit of celebration, whether telling stories to guests or stirring up something delicious in his kitchen. Now 54, he laughs telling me how as a younger man he had a hard time convincing his father that customers would like his revivals of ancient dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Appian Way was the first major long-distance road of the ancient Romans","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I started working in the Hostaria when I was 14 and took a break to have my 'Jack Kerouac' years in the USA,\" he said. \"When I came back, I had a new appreciation for the great history of Rome, and I was hungry to learn more about it.\" Magnanimi's inspiration grew when a friend gave him Dinner with Lucullo, a book full of stories and recipes from the days of ancient Rome. Its title character was a 1st-Century BC military man who was so famous for his banquets that Romans still praise a good dinner by saying, \"that was a meal worthy of Lucullo.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMagnanimi started testing recipes and had his first success with \u003Cem\u003Epullum oxizomum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a chicken entree. It is made with leeks and \u003Cem\u003Ecolatura di alici di Cetara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a condiment from the Amalfi Coast made from fermented anchovies that is the perfect substitute for garum. Some Japanese diners especially enjoyed it, and that led to him being featured on documentaries in Japan. \"My Roman groupies came after that; they were harder to convince to try something new,\" Magnanimi said. \"And then pollo oxizomum was praised in The New York Times, so it is still one of our most popular dishes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese days, the Hostaria's menu features the Eternal City standards (such as pasta amatriciana and carbonara), along with the ancient Roman dishes that have brought Magnanimi international attention and made his once-sceptical father proud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first met Magnanimi in 2008 when I landed in the Hostaria and, on the recommendation of a foodie friend, ordered \u003Cem\u003Epatina cotidiana,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a tomato-less predecessor to lasagne. The original recipe used \u003Cem\u003Elagana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a flat bread, which was layered with meats, fish and cheeses. Magnanimi's was simpler, filled with ground pork, fennel and pecorino cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Patina Cotidiana is a tomato-less predecessor to lasagne that was popular in ancient Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo recreate this 2,000-year-old dish, Magnanimi started with a recipe from the 1st-Century AD Roman cookbook De Re Coquinaria, the only surviving recipe book from ancient Rome, which is attributed to Apicius, a wealthy gourmand once described by Pliny the Elder as \"the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts\". Since the ancient recipes didn't use quantities or details for preparation, he then consulted noted Italian archaeologist Eugenia Salza Prina Ricotti to recreate the dishes by estimating their measurements with ingredients that were true to the era.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I couldn't put tomato in it,\" Magnanimi said, \"because tomatoes didn't come to Italy until the 1500s, when Cortes brought them back from the Americas.\" The \u003Cem\u003Epatina cotidiana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"daily dish\" in Latin, is now a restaurant signature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My cheese, I make with the mortar and pestle, exactly like a recipe from Virgil","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy first taste kept me returning to try more flavours of ancient Rome, including sweets such as \u003Cem\u003Etiropatina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a custard that's spiced with pepper, which Romans believed to be an aphrodisiac. Magnanimi told me his most recent creation is \u003Cem\u003Ela cassata di Oplontis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, inspired by a fresco found in a villa near Pompeii. The rich cake made with almond flour, ricotta, candied fruit and honey sells out every night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My cheese, I make with the mortar and pestle, exactly like a recipe from Virgil, from the 1st Century AD,\" Magnanimi said. This is \u003Cem\u003Emoretum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cheese spread inspired by Virgil's poem about a farmworker preparing his humble lunch, grinding together coriander, celery seed, garlic and pecorino. It can be slathered on \u003Cem\u003Elibum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a round bread that was sacred to the Romans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moretum is a cheese spread that was a favorite of ancient Romans","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI'd seen black carbonised libum in a Pompeii Museum, where a guide told me that its crumbs were placed on altars as an offering to household gods – a precursor to the Christian eucharist. Magnanimi shapes his libum in light, puffy rolls and stuffs them with ricotta sourced from the sheep farm up the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi missed engaging with guests during Italy's Covid-19 lockdown. With all the free time, he took lots of walks through the surrounding Appian Way, where leafy footpaths and bike lanes served as an outdoor refuge for Italians enduring some of Europe's strictest \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fextra\u002Fdj3jonuhi1\u002Fcoronavirus-year-of-the-mask\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elockdown measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent a long morning with a shepherd, some days I'd see so many Romans coming here to jog because they couldn't go to the gym, and on weekends, there were families having picnics near the aqueducts, probably coming here for the first time. I could tell we all were feeling a bigger appreciation for where we live, for Rome.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Paolo is an important part of this place. He keeps it lively,\" said Simone Quilici, the director of the Appia Antica Archaeological Park. Quilici is continuing a mission that began in the early 19th Century when the idea of preserving this area began to take hold. That's when archaeologist and architect Luigi Canina decided to plant the now archetypal umbrella pines along the Appian Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sheep grazing in Parco della Caffarella, part of Appia Antica Archeological park in Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESadly, the park plans were never fulfilled and by the 20th Century, with uncontrolled traffic and the turbulence of the World War years, there was danger that this precious section of the Appian Way would be destroyed. The area became vandalised and riddled with criminal activity. Finally in 1988, largely thanks to decades of protests, the area was officially designated a park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I remember coming here as a little girl,\" Eleonora Fanelli, a Roman archaeologist and tour guide told me. \"I couldn't believe this was in my city, a place out of a fairy tale where I could imagine a prince on horseback galloping on the path.\" Now, Fanelli loves to take visitors here. \"Even if it's raining, they want to get out and walk on the road, step on the stones that have chariot wheel marks on them, from 312BC!\" She loves to tell the story of the Roman censor, Appius Claudius Caecus, who nearly bankrupted the Roman treasury to have this road built. The legend goes that though he went blind, he still maintained quality control by walking barefoot on the road to ensure that the stones were smoothly laid. The Appian Way eventually extended 563km south to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast, and was the key to the creation of the Roman Empire. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi has lived in the park for two decades and has high praise for Quilici's leadership. \"Since he began in 2017, he's made the park so much better for Romans and for tourists. New things have opened, like the 2nd-Century AD thermal baths of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002Fluoghi\u002Fcomplesso-di-capo-di-bove\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECapo di Bove\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where there are beautiful mosaics and a garden.\" There is also a new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002Fitinerappia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItinerAppia App\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can scan a QR code and learn about each monument.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel so lucky to live here and to welcome travellers to experience Rome, \u003Cem\u003ELa Grande Bellezza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, for real!,\" Magnanimi said. \"Here they can step back thousands of years on these stones and know how good it tasted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-20T10:26:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"What did the ancient Romans eat?","headlineShort":"What did the ancient Romans eat?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.8683365","longitude":"12.5002313","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A chef is unearthing recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks to reveal the origin of Italian food.","summaryShort":"A chef is unearthing long-lost recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-19T22:31:09.47576Z","entity":"article","guid":"0b39d142-0fd5-4549-9c7f-d1de68d6fb87","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:15.189622Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484343},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","_id":"621e445145ceed67ed4e7b03","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With only three simple ingredients, cacio e pepe is a rich pasta dish that’s hard not to love. And when you do get that elusive texture, it becomes the ideal comfort food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECacio e pepe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a dish of only three ingredients, two of which are evident at first glance to anyone familiar with Roman dialect. \u003Cem\u003ECacio \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis Romanesco for sheep’s milk cheese. Along with \u003Cem\u003Epepe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or black pepper, the cheese – ideally Pecorino – unites with pasta (and a hefty dose of starchy cooking water) to form a rich, creamy sauce that is as delicious as it is difficult to perfect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"[It's] as delicious as it is difficult to perfect.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to legend, the dish first appeared centuries ago among shepherds spending the spring and summer months in the grazing meadows of the Apennine Mountains, which traverse the Italian peninsula. While keeping watch over their flocks, shepherds would tap into personal stores of dried pasta and pepper; cheap, easy to transport and resistant to spoilage, these two ingredients were combined with the cheese (made from milk of the herders’ flocks) to make a delicious, simple dish that kept them warm on cold evenings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Black pepper directly stimulates the heat receptors and helped the shepherds to protect themselves from the cold,” explained Alessandra Argiolas, marketing manager for Sardinian Pecorino producers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.argiolasformaggi.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArgiolas Formaggi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “And the pasta guaranteed a lot of energy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Angelo Carotenuto, a native Roman and owner and manager of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livitaly.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELivItaly Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, cacio e pepe’s origin may be a bit less romantic. Carotenuto and local guide Dario Bartoli recently took to the internet with a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livitaly.com\u002Ftour\u002Fcooking-demo-learn-2-traditional-italian-pasta-sauce-recipes-with-a-roman-livtalks-with-dario\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELivTalk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, “sort of like a TedTalk gone late-night show” as described by Carotenuto, to profile this and other local pasta dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to them, dishes like cacio e pepe, carbonara (a rich sauce made with a combination of beaten egg and dry-cured guanciale or pork cheek) and amatriciana (made with guanciale, tomato and Pecorino cheese) likely got their start, not in the mountains, but in the mines and factories that once surrounded the Lazio region encompassing Rome, near where low-income families once lived.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDried cheese, dried guanciale and dried pasta were filling, cheap and didn’t spoil easily: perfect for a simple, inexpensive meal. And while the first two ingredients would likely have been used locally for “literally centuries,” according to Carotenuto, the invention of these dishes, now perceived as Roman classics, probably dates to the 1800s, when pasta became popular in the Italian capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly’s city that revolutionised pasta\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to make pizza like a Neapolitan master\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190127-italys-practically-perfect-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly’s practically perfect food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You’re looking at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Ftopics\u002FItalian_unification\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunification of Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so the ability to transfer flavours and recipes easily,” he explained, noting that before unification, the poor would have been getting their carbohydrates from bread and polenta, rather than from pasta, which, Carotenuto explains, is said to have arrived in Italy through the Venetian ports.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever cacio e pepe was invented, one thing is for sure: it has captured many hearts around the world, including that of the late, great Anthony Bourdain. In one episode of No Reservations, Bourdain went so far as to say the dish “could be the greatest thing in the history of the world” – and refused to disclose his favourite cacio e pepe restaurant in Rome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECacio e pepe has journeyed far from its humble roots. It has been topped with shaved truffle at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffucina.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon’s Fucina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it has been an off-menu “secret” offering for VIPs at Washington DC’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rosesrestaurantgroupdc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERose’s Luxury\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and it has been prepared in a wheel of Pecorino and served in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qtrkK53WDXk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etableside spectacle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at New York City’s aptly named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cacioepepe.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECacio e Pepe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant. Closer to home in Rome, the dish has gone upscale, appearing on the three-Michelin-starred menu at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fromecavalieri.com\u002Fit\u002Fla-pergola-it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Pergola\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite its international acclaim and elevated status, at its core, cacio e pepe remains a stalwartly simple dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many Italian classics, the secret to its success is the purity of its ingredients. To deviate from its three-part formula is to risk angering a local.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’re pretty strict about how these things should taste,” said Carotenuto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor starters, the pasta. Most make cacio e pepe with spaghetti, though the true traditional recipe calls for tonnarelli, a similar local noodle with a bit more chew thanks to the addition of egg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“That’s what I would order if I was in a restaurant,” explained \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.elizabethminchilli.com\u002F)\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElizabeth Minchilli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, culinary tour guide and author of Eating Rome: Living the Good Life in the Eternal City. “If I was at home and couldn’t get that, I would probably go with spaghetti.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEither way, a long noodle is crucial to achieving the perfect texture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You really want to coat every strand with the cheese, and the fat from the cheese, and the starch from the water,” said Minchilli. “It just makes stirring really fast easier.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe next ingredient, pepe or black peppercorn, should be freshly crushed to release all of its aromas. Many chefs, including Filippo and Giovanni Rinaldi of London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmammafarina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMammafarina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pasta pop-ups, “bloom” the pepper in the pan by toasting it slightly, making it even more flavourful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then, of course, there’s cacio, or as the Renaldis call it, “her majesty, Pecorino!”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Pecorino is very important because of the flavour and sapidity that this cheese brings to the dish,” they said, noting that either Pecorino Romano or Pecorino Sardo (from Sardinia) can be used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the Rinaldis say that, “it should be forbidden to make cacio e pepe without Pecorino”, some do deviate a bit from this norm by adding another, more familiar cheese: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190127-italys-practically-perfect-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParmesan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom a historical perspective, it’s an unusual choice, explained Argiolas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Cacio e pepe is a recipe of the Roman tradition,” she said, noting that already in 48BC, Virgil was describing the nutritional properties of the local sheep’s milk cheese. Parmesan, which hails not from Rome but from Emilia Romagna, is milder, nuttier and sweeter – the root of an Alfredo sauce, which Carotenuto calls “cacio e pepe for the American sweet tooth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite tradition, Americans are not the only ones to sub subtler Parmesan for in-your-face Pecorino. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190618-massimo-bottura-the-worlds-best-chef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMassimo Bottura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E popularised an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.upworthy.com\u002Fthis-world-renowned-chef-saved-his-towns-economy-with-cheese-and-rice\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eall-Parmesan version in 2012\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, after the Emilia Romagna region was hit by a devastating earthquake. And other cooks, like Minchilli, will cut an especially strong piece of Pecorino with a bit of Parmesan, to mellow it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s not blasphemous to add some Parmesan cheese to the Pecorino,” said Carotenuto. “Pecorino is a very strong, salty cheese. The starchy water kind of slows that taste down, so in my opinion, you don’t need Parmesan cheese. But you certainly can, especially if you’re giving it to children.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If all you have is a good-quality Parmigiano,” echoed Minchilli, “the cacio e pepe police are not going to come and arrest you!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"“It’s pretty typical of an Italian dish where, behind this simplicity, hides a fairly complex technicity”","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ingredients for cacio e pepe may be simple, but the technique requires a bit of finesse to perfect, according to Simone Zanoni, chef of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flegeorge.com\u002Fen\u002Fhome\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe George Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s pretty typical of an Italian dish where, behind this simplicity, hides a fairly complex technicity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe technique, in this case, is to unite the starchy pasta cooking water with very finely grated cheese to create a rich sauce with no added cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you tell someone who lives in Rome that you put cream in cacio e pepe…” Zanoni chuckled, “he’ll jump on your head!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, one must patiently and slowly incorporate the starchy water reserved from cooking the pasta with the cheese and the pasta itself until a smooth emulsion forms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Everything has to be the right temperature when you add it together, otherwise you get this sort of plate of noodles with a clotted piece of cheese at the bottom,” said Minchilli. “And it’s just not what you’re dreaming of.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen you do get that elusive texture, cacio e pepe becomes the ideal comfort food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Cacio e pepe is a challenge, but also a dish that’s hard not to love,” said Meryl Feinstein, founder of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpastasocialclub\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Social Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Austin, Texas. “It feels like an accomplishment – for me included – when that glossy, emulsified sauce emerges. Plus, it’s made with few ingredients, and many you likely already have in your kitchen, so it fits in well with the need for pantry-friendly recipes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe flavour profile of cacio e pepe has spawned dozens of iterations, from gnocchi to risotto to lasagne. There are versions that make life easier, like Rachael Ray’s ricotta-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rachaelraymag.com\u002Frecipe\u002Frachael-rays-cacio-e-pepe-mac-n-cheese-with-chard\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe mac and cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There are versions that make it even more over-the-top, like David Chang’s recipe with house-fermented \u003Cem\u003Ececi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(chickpeas) in place of \u003Cem\u003Ecacio \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnishi.momofuku.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMomofuku Nishi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; or the “taco” of cacio e pepe pasta served in a crispy chicken cutlet at New York’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.noblekitchenandcocktails.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoble Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Paris-based chef Taku Sekine of Paris’ \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dersouparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDersou\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchevaldorparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECheval d’Or\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently posted a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FB-6esAnptgD\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on his Instagram feed, noting that it’s easy to make at home, as “the ingredients are often there”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You can make it whenever the spirit moves you, just like cacio e pepe,” he said. “Of course… you need to make the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epizza dough\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Zanoni, however, merely combining Pecorino and pepper does not cacio e pepe make.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We wouldn’t call cacio e pepe pizza ‘cacio e pepe…’ we’d call it ‘a pizza with cheese and pepper’,” he said. “There’s a vision of tradition that’s completely different, and abroad it has taken on a completely different vision than what we have in Italy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne thing is for sure: cacio e pepe has captured the attention of home cooks around the world, especially given current confinement protocols.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s funny to see how pasta, which abroad has always been perceived as this easy-to-make dish, is changing,” said Zanoni, who often gets requests for a gourmet version of cacio e pepe from his one-\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181024-the-ingenious-story-behind-michelin-stars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichelin-star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E kitchen in Paris. “People are starting to give it a gastronomic identity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd whether you’re going crazy with new-fangled versions or sticking to the classic, it’s a comfort food dish that tastes great.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“With confinement, we’re coming back to old issues: that we couldn’t always access fresh products, and so we had things that we could keep around for a long time,” said Zanoni. “What better than a hunk of Pecorino, spaghetti and a bit of pepper?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESimone Zanoni’s Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E200g high-quality, artisanal spaghetti (Zanoni uses Neapolitan spaghetti)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4-7g wild black peppercorns (adjust to taste, depending on the assertiveness of the pepper)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E160g Pecorino Romano, plus two pieces Pecorino rind\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3l water seasoned with 15g of kosher salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPrepare your \u003Cem\u003Emise en place\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the French world for having all your ingredients prepped and measured) in advance. Crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle. (If you do not have a mortar and pestle, use the bottom of a saucepan to crush them on a chopping board.) Grate the Pecorino with a Microplane (grater).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBring the water to a boil, season with the salt, and add the spaghetti. Stir gently at the beginning to keep the pasta from sticking to the bottom of the pot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, toast ¾ of the pepper in a pan over low heat until aromatic, about 1 minute. Be careful not to burn the pepper. Remove the pan from the heat, and gently add 2 to 3 ladlefuls of starchy pasta water to the pepper. Bring to a boil. Add the cheese crusts and simmer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the spaghetti is half-cooked (after about six minutes), transfer it to the pan with the peppercorns and starchy pasta water, reserving the remaining cooking water. Transfer another ladleful of water to the pan. After a few more minutes, remove the Pecorino rinds, and place them in a non-stick pan over medium heat to toast on both sides. When nicely toasted, remove and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, continue cooking the spaghetti until two minutes before al dente (cooked “to the tooth” with a slight bite). Turn off the heat and allow the pasta to rest; there should be a bit of cooking water left in the pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter about a minute off the heat, begin adding the grated cheese to the pasta from above, shaking the pan all the while to coat evenly. Add cooking water as needed to help the sauce bind; the sauce will thicken as the pasta sets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EServe the pasta in a warmed dish. Top with the remaining pepper and a little bit of freshly grated Pecorino. Finely slice the toasted Pecorino rinds and sprinkle on top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots-at-home\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots at Home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that looks to trending recipes and traces their origins, offering the story behind the dish as well as easy tips on how to make them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-14T15:57:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Cacio e pepe: Italy's beloved three-ingredient pasta dish","headlineShort":"Italy's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With only three simple ingredients, cacio e pepe is a rich pasta dish that’s hard not to love. And when you do get that elusive texture, it becomes the ideal comfort food.","summaryShort":"When done right, cacio e pepe becomes the ideal comfort food","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:49:08.351334Z","entity":"article","guid":"74fec49e-7e90-4543-b8de-74e72474d7fc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:09:06.453563Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484343},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","_id":"62269b4045ceed24d1481885","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell"],"bodyIntro":"Renaissance-era ice cream moulds, 500-year-old cookbooks, recipes meant only for popes: Rome's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's history of food and cooking.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outside, the museum on Palatine Hill looked like just another of Rome's elegant \u003Cem\u003Epalazzi, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eits entrance graced with statues of Roman soldiers and decorative urns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, however, it was clear that this wasn't your run-of-the-mill Roman mansion. Hundreds of culinary tools were displayed in glass cabinets: bulky 19th-Century pasta machines, 220-year-old Italian bowls once used by Italian monks and well-worn steel pots designed for making \u003Cem\u003Eosso bucco\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the classic northern Italian veal recipe. What at first looked like medieval plates of armour were in fact metal tray moulds up to 500 years old. Some were for baking, others for making chocolate or ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl0zd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther displays held books. I stopped in front of one illustration to look at lumps of meat cooked over an open flame on a 16th-Century rotisserie; in the picture next to it, Italian men sat at a banquet table, eating. These sketches decorate the cover of one of the oldest cookbooks displayed in the museum, Il Trinciante, written in 1593 by Vincenzo Cervio. The author was a \u003Cem\u003Etrinciante\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or carver, for Italian Cardinal Alessandro Farnese. Cervio's 74-chapter opus reveals how to precisely cut fish, pies, fruits and vegetables and, above all, meat and fowl like pork, chicken, turkey, pheasant and peacock. Detailed drawings specify Cervio's preferred carving points to ensure juicy and flavourful cuts. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIl Trinciante is one of 120 cookbooks at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museodellacucina.com\u002F\"\u003EMuseo della Cucina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum opening in May 2022 that will be the city's first focusing on the history of food and cooking. Since the first mass-printed cookbook was published almost 550 years ago, many Italian recipes have been all but lost, hibernating in old texts hidden in repositories, said the museum's director, Matteo Ghirighini. The Museo della Cucina aims to rectify that. Its collection is based on that of Italian chef Rosso Boscolo and includes many of the oldest and rarest cookbooks in existence – including some originally meant only for popes. Boscolo's Tuscan cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scuoladicucinaetoile.com\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ECampus Etoile Academy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meanwhile, will help the museum grow rare ingredients and perfect neglected recipes once reserved only for royalty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I got a sneak peek at the museum in November 2021, it was preparing for its launch. I came across it by accident. Rome is so awash with extraordinary sites that it's easy to overlook monumental churches and remains of 2,000-year-old palaces, let alone a yet-to-open cooking museum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut already the Museo della Cucina had been included on Google Maps. And as I used my phone's GPS, I noticed its listing. What initially piqued my interest was its remarkable location. The museum is wedged between two of Rome's most important historic sites – the 2,600-year-old stadium Circus Maximus, and Palatine Hill, where Rome was founded and which is cloaked in the remains of ancient palaces and temples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl121"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs it turns out, the museum isn't just on the Palatine but on the specific location where Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome, were breastfed by the Roman wolf goddess Lupa more than 2,700 years ago. Myth has it that Romulus later established Rome on the same spot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet\"\u003EThe erotic design of Italian pastries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat did the ancient Romans eat?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is fitting the museum sits on such a historic location, said Ghirighini. \"Cooking as a way of reading contemporary history has often been underrated,\" he said. \"Cooking is a product of its time and it can tell us a lot about customs, ways of thinking, specific economic and political situations. So, a cookbook is often much more than it seems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese sentiments were shared by Laila Tentoni, president of Italy's renowned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.casartusi.it\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ECasa Artusi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E centre for gastronomy in Forlimpopoli, northern Italy. She said Italy's food revealed an enormous amount about the country's passions. And cookbooks, in turn, had greatly shaped the history and direction of Italian cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl17b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECasa Artusi is dedicated to one of the country's most revered cookbook authors, Pellegrino Artusi. Tentoni said Artusi's 1891 book, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, aimed to demystify Italian cuisine that had previously been reserved for the country's elite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Artusi was like the first food blogger,\" Tentoni said. \"Artusi suggests to be simple, to use local, seasonal and quality products. Always you must choose the finest ingredients as your raw materials, for these will make you shine, Artusi wrote.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI admired a rare first edition of Artusi's influential text on the second floor of the Museo della Cucina. While Artusi's cookbook is not as vibrantly illustrated as some others, it makes up for that with his colourful writing style. \"Many people will read this recipe and cry out: 'Oh what a ridiculous pasta!',\" he wrote about his curious Lentin Spaghetti, in an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.co.th\u002Fbooks?id=CvNJXPb7wnIC&printsec=frontcover&dq=inauthor:%22Pellegrino+Artusi%22&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=ridiculous&f=false\"\u003EEnglish language version of his publication\u003C\u002Fa\u003E I read online. Made from ground walnuts, breadcrumbs, confectioner's sugar and allspice – also known as Jamaican pepper or pimento – this sweet spaghetti was unfailingly popular with children, Artusi said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of Artusi's recipes have since fallen out of favour – such as his recipe for eel pie. Not only is that long, slender fish difficult to prepare and cook – so much so that Japan has many specialist eel chefs – but Artusi's recipe pairs it with raisins, rosewater and almond milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":["p0bsl1b7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving long ago forgotten my high school Italian, I was unable to decipher the open pages of the library's books. But Ghirighini told me I could eventually read each one in English once the museum's comprehensive website is completed. \"Basically, you have access to a full virtual, illustrated, guided tour through five centuries of gastronomy,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom among that trove he singled out several texts I should examine. In addition to Artusi's classic, there was the first cookbook ever mass printed, On Honourable Pleasure and Health, by Italian author Bartolomeo Platina in 1474. That text, which focused on the preparation of single meals rather than decadent banquets, earned a huge following in Italy before its popularity saw it translated into French and German.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA similarly important cookbook, Ghirighini said, was The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi from 1570. That was written by and named after the revered Scappi, the private chef of Pope Pius V. This cookbook, which brims with sketches of meals being prepared in grand kitchens, was extraordinary because, for the first time, it gave the Italian public access to recipes previously untasted outside of the Vatican.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl1gt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, Scappi wrote of how Pope Pius IV was a fan of frog. Not just any frog, mind you, but those from the city of Bologna, which were especially plump and delicious. For the Pope, Scappi would remove the frogs' surprisingly large livers, coat them in egg, flour and milk and then fry them into crispy fritters. That was a snack. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe remainder of this amphibian was prepared as a heartier meal for His Holiness. Scappi would discard the head and the tips of the frog's feet, and fry what was left only in flour. Then he'd soak it in verjuice sauce made from unripened grapes, which was once a popular ingredient among Italian chefs but has largely been superseded by vinegar. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause French cuisine had significant influences on northern Italian gastronomy – due to sharing both a border and mutual admiration for each other's continent-leading culinary prowess – the museum also displays many of France's finest cookbooks, written by the likes of Marie-Antoine Careme, Francois Massialot and Urbane Francois Dubois.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The books in the museum contain the first printed recipes of all the most iconic dishes of the gastronomic culture of [Italy and France], from tomato sauce to supplì (rice croquettes) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171221-what-you-dont-know-about-panettone\"\u003Epanettone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from macarons to meringues,\" Ghirighini said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the owner of a sweet tooth, my mouth watered as I admired evocative drawings of towering cakes in Careme's book Le Patissier Royal Parisien\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EHe pioneered a grandiose approach to cooking that leaned on spectacle as much as technique. From pastry, sugar and marzipan, Careme created giant replicas of famous buildings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl1pb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from books and artefacts, Ghirighini said the museum plans to bring historical dishes alive with tastings, such as the first-ever recipe for Italian tomato sauce, from the late 1600s. Taken from Antonio Latini's 1692 cookbook, this recipe has more in common with spicy salsa than the mild tomato sauce of the modern day thanks to its generous helping of fresh chillies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere will also be on-site banquets featuring ancient recipes from the museum's cookbooks, some of which have been dormant for generations, although Ghirighini did not yet want to reveal yet what they may be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A cookbook and food museum in Rome is absolutely something new,\" said Flaminia Belloni, a Rome tour guide for 20 years. \"It's a good chance to learn how the food and the cooking traditions were a real part of the lifestyle and state of mind for all Italians.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGhirighini hopes others will agree. After all, few feats could be more difficult than attempting to crystallise, within one building, more than 500 years of Italian cooking – and doing justice to one of the most globally renowned, and fascinating, aspects of Italian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-eats"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-08T10:51:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Rome's new museum dedicated to cooking","headlineShort":"How Rome changed how we eat","image":["p0bsl1yb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.9028","longitude":"12.4964","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bsl4m5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Renaissance-era ice cream moulds, 500-year-old cookbooks, recipes meant only for popes: Rome's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's history of food and cooking.","summaryShort":"It's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's culinary history","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-07T23:54:22.277553Z","entity":"article","guid":"2f297547-61cb-407c-9f0b-5528f8bb8cdc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-09T12:43:56.642771Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Frome"],"destinationStat":"europe_europe_italy_europe_italy_rome","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484343},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","_id":"621e445045ceed69cc646eb8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Washington DC, \"great food\" has become an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. And quintessential mambo sauce is leading the way.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen one mentions Washington DC, to outsiders, a few predictable images come to mind: the White House; monuments and museums; endless bureaucracy; and the never-ending soap opera that is US politics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat doesn't often come up, however, is food. Philadelphia has its cheesesteaks. New York has its bagels, pizza and pastrami. Even nearby Maryland has its famous crab cakes. In the eyes of most, the US capital has never had a nationally or internationally recognisable culinary treasure to call its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I have no idea how I started eating it. It's just a part of the culture","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut for many true Washingtonians – not transplants in town for the politics – there is one notable exception: mambo sauce, a unique red-orange sweet and tangy condiment often used on everything from fried chicken and wings to shrimp and fried rice. While the origins of the word \"mambo\" have been lost to time, core ingredients usually include ketchup, soy sauce, vinegar, hot sauce, tomato sauce and sugar, with some versions also including pineapple juice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocal foodies are incredibly protective of the sauce and its role in local culture. In 2018, for example, Mayor Muriel Bowser drew the ire of many constituents by saying she was \"annoyed\" at the sauce's association with DC, a statement even the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Flocal\u002Fmay-the-mambo-sauce-always-flow-said-dcs-mayor-before-she-dissed-it\u002F2018\u002F11\u002F24\u002F8118dbbe-ef5b-11e8-8679-934a2b33be52_story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashington Post characterised as \"not a minor misstep\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. On her personal Facebook page, Bowser, who took office in 2015, questioned why and how the condiment had become a \"quintessential\" DC food. Faced with an onslaught of criticism – some light-hearted, some not – the mayor's spokesperson said Bowser \"wanted to provide DC residents something to discuss on Thanksgiving\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I have no idea how I started eating it. It's just a part of the culture,\" explained Angela Byrd, a DC native who founded \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.madeinthedmv.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMadeInTheDMV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a think-tank aimed at promoting local brands and culture. \"Everybody eats it. It's weird when people don't.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe origins of mambo sauce are a matter of some dispute. Die-hard mambo aficionados insist the sauce was born at a Wings N' Things, a black-owned and now defunct Washington wings restaurant even if a judge in 2013 ruled that \"mumbo\" – an alternative spelling – is legally trademarked in Chicago, where some claim the sauce was first created by an African American restauranteur named Argia B Collins in the 1950s at a BBQ venue he operated. Proponents of this theory – which is deeply unpopular among DC mambo sauce enthusiasts – believe the sauce was brought to the district by people travelling between what were two of the main hubs of black culture and business in the United States.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver time, however, the sauce became a staple and a source of local pride in DC, where it has traditionally been associated with the city's many affordable takeaway venues, particularly in historically African American parts of town such as Shaw or Anacostia. The growth of the sauce's popularity in DC can partly be attributed to its connection to Go-Go music, DC's homegrown variety of funk, as well as its availability near popular music venues and nightclubs over the last several decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, as the city's demographics slowly changed over the years, the sauce was increasingly picked up and offered at higher-end venues such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehamiltondc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hamilton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant near the White House, exposing new segments of the population – that were unlikely to be found eating at local takeaways (known locally as \"carry-outs\") – to mambo. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMambo sauce's popularity, Byrd added, is largely a result of how useful it is. Even if the texture, colour and taste can vary from place-to-place – as it often does – it can be eaten at any time, with almost anything. \"The redder, the better,\" she said with a chuckle. \"It's almost like wine. It has different tastes. Even if the chicken is bad, it makes it taste good. You can use it on chicken and French fries, but some people go above and beyond with other great dishes. I'm going to carry mambo sauce with me, and that's just the way it goes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese days, mambo sauce has gone mainstream. What was once quietly made in takeaway kitchens is now available on shelves in grocery and department stores, and even at more formal restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong the local voices leading mambo sauce's charge to greater popularity is Arsha Jones, the CEO and co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shopcapitalcity.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECapital City Mambo Sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA DC native, Jones began the business with her late husband after leaving the city for nearby suburbs and seeing a niche to market mambo to Washingtonians who'd left. These days, her sauce is available throughout the city and online to former city residents and out-of-town enthusiasts alike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt has not always been an easy ride. For one, it was Jones and her company that were embroiled in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fgoingoutguide\u002Fmumbo-sauce-may-be-the-taste-of-dc-but-in-the-eyes-of-the-law-its-home-is-chicago\u002F2013\u002F09\u002F03\u002Fc2ae07bc-14bd-11e3-a100-66fa8fd9a50c_story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E'mumbo vs mambo' legal battle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with rivals in Chicago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, Jones says she sometimes still faces opposition from a small minority of mambo \"purists\" who don't believe the sauce should be mass-produced or shared with out-of-towners. \"People said that a more authentic version would be to go to a carry-out. But our recipe is based on what was sold at those carry-outs,\" she said of the debate. \"The goal is to commercialise a well-known product, not to change it or take away from its history, origination or the culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We actually want to highlight those things and make sure people understand where it started,\" Jones added. \"We want to show everyone what it \u003Cem\u003Eis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to be from Washington DC, and what we like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVisitors wanting to get a taste of that experience are not short on options, many of them in or around DC's bustling 14th Street or U Street corridor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe area, now home to a dizzying array of bars and restaurants – including many Ethiopian and West African stand-outs – holds a special place in the city's rich African American history. Anchored by the famed Howard University, in the first half of the 20th Century the area was known as \"Black Broadway\", a hub of music and culture at a particular time of racial and political tensions throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Between 1900 and 1920, it was \u003Cem\u003Ethe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E place to be. In the 1930s and '40s, it was also unique in that it could be integrated. You'd also have white people who wanted to come enjoy black music,\" said Lynn O’Connell, a tour guide with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dcmetrofoodtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDC Metro Food Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"After Howard University opened, you started seeing the intellectuals come in – the poets, the writers and, of course, the musicians. The area was home to a lot of blossoming black musicians.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200701-pig-ear-sandwich-an-iconic-dish-of-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn iconic dish of the American South\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201213-a-new-way-to-travel-across-the-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new way to travel across the US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170112-a-white-house-built-by-blacks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA White House built by blacks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EU Street is also home to what is without a doubt DC's most famous restaurant: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbenschilibowl.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBen's Chili Bowl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was founded by Trinidadian-born immigrant Ben Ali and his wife Virginia in 1958. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I came in 1952, when DC was still a segregated city. When we met in 1957, we fell in love and wanted to be married. His dream was to open up a little restaurant,\" the now 87-year-old Virginia Ali recalled. \"He knew something of the restaurant business, and he had this little secret chili recipe.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That's how we came up with the idea,\" she added. \"We just had to find that ideal location.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESixty-three years later, Ben's is also widely considered the spiritual home of perhaps the only other food that DC residents claim as their own: the half-smoke, a hot dog-esque grilled sausage – sometimes half beef, half pork – served on a warm steamed bun with mustard, onions and more often than not, with Ben's signature homemade chilli sauce (although mambo sauce is readily available on request).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Half-smokes are widely considered as important as mambo sauce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to DC's indigenous culinary options, half-smokes are widely considered as important as mambo sauce, with the two being synonymous with DC's culinary history and culture – particularly as it pertains to the city's African American community – although many enthusiasts of either will tell you the two complement each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver its more than six decades, the venue has become an almost obligatory stop for celebrities and prominent visitors of all stripes visiting the city. Many are featured on the building's exterior murals or inside picture frames, from Anthony Bourdain and U2's Bono to Barack Obama.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1960s, famed American civil rights leader Martin Luther King Jr – whose \"Poor People's Campaign\" had a nearby office – was a regular visitor. When he was assassinated in 1968, Ben's famously continued to operate as a \"safe space\" even as devastating unrest left much of the area in ruins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We always wanted to be a community-based place, a home away from home for people and a gathering place. We do our best to treat all our guests as a family member walking through the door, whether it be the president or the guy on the corner. We're all just people,\" Ali said. \"But more importantly, I think we've got great food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDC residents are quick to note that \"great food\" is increasingly becoming an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the demographics are shifting – DC's sizeable black majority is now down to 45%. Secondly, calls for statehood are mounting, with an overwhelming majority of residents in favour of an upgrade from its current status as a federal district.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn this environment, many residents say that DC having its \"own\" food and local restaurants to identify with becomes increasingly important. Whether that food be mambo sauce or a half-smoke or both, however, is up for some debate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"What we find is that local people, black and white, but particularly black, are really rallying around their local institutions,\" explained Dr Bernard Demczuk, a professor and official resident historian at Ben's Chili Bowl, complete with an \"open table\" permanently reserved at the restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"New York has the pizza. New Orleans has gumbo,\" he added. \"Hopefully our state cuisine will be the half-smoke. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Demczuk's comments beg a question that is sure to start a heated debate among DC food and culture connoisseurs: what is more DC, mambo sauce or a half-smoke?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Oh, that's a tough one. A good question. A really good question,\" Angela Byrd said with a chuckle. \"I think mambo sauce. You could always put mambo sauce on a half-smoke. For me, mambo sauce just gets more play.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fquintessential-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuintessential City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that examines some of the world’s greatest cultural experiences, and then offers our take on the single-most memorable and true-to-the-local-spirit one you can have.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-20T23:23:46Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Washington DC sauce drenched in debate","headlineShort":"A sauce that can make anything good","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Washington DC, \"great food\" has become an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. And quintessential mambo sauce is leading the way.","summaryShort":"It's used on everything from fried chicken and wings to shrimp and fried rice","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:52.36133Z","entity":"article","guid":"66f0a839-4ce7-42dc-85e8-b978d01dfaac","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:26:04.260847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484344},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","_id":"621e445245ceed6b855c2247","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the late 18th Century, Philadelphia was a city of high-end cuisine; however, few know that many of its culinary masters were of African descent like Hercules Posey.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, sees millions of heritage-seeking tourists who traipse the reconstructed brick pathways of the old city, eager to see the sites that birthed ideas of American liberty such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Findependencehall.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndependence Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, and the iconic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fstories-libertybell.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiberty Bell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But like its ties to democracy, Philadelphia's connection to great American food culture has roots that reach into the distant past, roots that until recently have been obscured in the history books.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch of the fledgeling nation's culinary excellence was achieved in the homes of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FFounding-Fathers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFounding Fathers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, where high-end cuisine was perfected not by white cooks but by enslaved chefs of African descent. These highly skilled chefs were influenced by the city's bountiful European, Caribbean and Native American exchange of culinary ideas and techniques, as well as their own heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A mix of West African, European, Native American foodways collided in the colonies, by force","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Kelley Fanto Deetz, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiebound.org\u002Fsearch\u002Fbook?keys=bound+to+the+fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBound to the Fire: How Virginia's Enslaved Cooks Helped Invent American Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a mix of West African, European, Native American foodways collided in the colonies, by force,\" she said, \"and this collision found a world stage in places like Washington's dining room table in Philadelphia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreparing the food that made its way to Washington's tables was the unsung haute culinarian Hercules Posey. Posey was unique among his peers in that he was famous in his own time and was acknowledged by white society. He had a larger than life persona, and, as head chef, a position of power in the household, as well as some quasi-freedoms like the ability to leave the house on his own when he was not working and to earn money selling leftovers from the kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hercules Posey would have been familiar with Philadelphia's City Tavern in his time","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI spent a dozen years researching on Posey for my novel The General's Cook, piecing together the details of his remarkable life through painstaking research of Washington's household accounts, letters to and from his Philadelphia steward and personal secretary, census documents and other ephemera. Unlike the lives of their white contemporaries, the life events of enslaved people are not well recorded in the public record, appearing only as property footnotes in the files of their enslavers, making reconstruction of their lives incredibly difficult.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0bl2dy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe vestiges of Hercules Posey's life in Philadelphia remain tantalisingly within reach for visitors who know where to look.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESteps away from the Liberty Bell, tourists can visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-presidentshousesite.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPresident's House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where Posey lived and worked. The open-air site is interpreted through the lives of those George Washington enslaved there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECross the street to visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-declarationhouse.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeclaration (Graff) House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where Posey's contemporary Chef James Hemmings lived with his enslaver Thomas Jefferson during his time in Philadelphia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Germantown section of the city, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-germantownwhitehouse.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Deshler-Morris house\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also known as the Germantown White House, was where George Washington spent the summer of 1794 to avoid the yellow fever epidemic raging in the city. Posey cooked in this kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Fcitytavern.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECity Tavern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Man Full of Trouble tavern (now a private home) on Spruce Street are places with which Posey would have been familiar in his time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Freadingterminalmarket.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReading Terminal Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers the energy and flavour of the open-air markets of Posey's day, featuring goods from around the region and world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Hercules Posey's Philadelphia","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EBecause Posey was notable in his own time, there are more records of his life than of others like him – although this information is still incredibly sparse. However, Washington's step grandson, George Washington Parke Custis, chose to immortalise the chef in an biographical sketch in his book Reflections and Private Memoirs of Washington. Much what we know about Posey's towering persona is gleaned in Custis' single description. Recalling his childhood in the presidential mansion, he wrote about Posey as \"a culinary artiste\" and \"dandy\", with \"great muscular power\" and a \"master spirit\", whose \"underlings flew to his command\" (among those underlings were paid white servants).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPosey was possibly a teenager when he came to Mount Vernon, Washington's estate in Virginia, about 150 miles south-west of Philadelphia. He apprenticed there under the enslaved cooks Doll and Nathan, who managed the kitchen for many decades, and he mastered his craft so well that Washington brought him to cook at the \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fbanasaw1\u002FDesktop\u002FPresident's%20House\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPresident's House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Philadelphia in 1790. It was here in Philadelphia that Posey was exposed to and inspired by ingredients and cooking techniques from throughout the nation – and the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the time the chef resided in Philadelphia, the city was positioned ideally in the middle of the nation, and thanks to the wide, navigable Susquehanna, Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, regionally produced vegetables, fruits, meats and dairy products like milk and butter arrived regularly at its open-air High Street Market. The rest of nation supplied what wasn't available locally. From the north came salted New England codfish and prized Connecticut onions along with upstate New York cheese. From the south there was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210307-how-rice-shaped-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarolina rice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and indigo, as well as tobacco from Virginia and Maryland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210307-how-rice-shaped-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow rice shaped the American South\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210830-the-chef-preserving-gullah-culture-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Gullah culture\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Washington DC sauce drenched in debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, by the 1760s, Philadelphia's merchants had come to realise there was an untapped secondary market in the Caribbean (outside of the sugar, molasses and rum that went to ports like New York and Boston), and the city came to lead the nation in imports of ginger, allspice and black pepper, while controlling half of all coffee imports. Nutmeg, limes, pineapples, coconuts also made their way to Philadelphia as part of this robust West India Trade, and all were on offer in the city's ports for export, as well as its public markets and many taverns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, where the High Street Market sheds met the Delaware River, the harbour was jammed with trading ships loaded with olive oils from Spain; wines and oranges from Portugal, France and Germany; and tea from China – all part of the vast commercial network that made Philadelphia the busiest port on the American continent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hercules Posey cooked in the kitchen for George Washington's home at Mount Vernon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Philadelphia was the gateway to the Atlantic, a city that was central to the foundation of our nation and our understanding of what American food is,\" said Deetz, who is also the director of Collections and Visitor Engagement of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fstratfordhall.org\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStratford Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Virginia birthplace of confederate Civil War general \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fw3cszmw7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert E Lee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile none of Posey's recipes survived, period accounts detail meals with each course featuring a dizzying variety among dishes like roasted beef, veal, turkeys, ducks, fowls and ham as well as puddings, jellies, oranges, apples, nuts, figs and raisins. Depending on the season, there were oyster stews, other soups and pottages, as well as fruit pies, ice cream and seasonal fish. All were accompanied by various wines and were elegantly presented.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnderstanding Posey lies in understanding his milieu. He moved to Philadelphia, a city that was a crossroads of culture, language, commerce and cuisine – much the way we think of New York City, London or Hong Kong today. Third and fourth generation European Americans with English or French ancestry – like George Washington – joined their Dutch- and Swedish-descent counterparts on the brick pavements of Philadelphia developed by William Penn on unceded indigenous Lenape land. In 1791, following the successful revolt of the enslaved on the Caribbean Island of St Domingue (now Haiti), French-speaking white refugees flooded the city, dragging their Creole-speaking enslaved in tow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"1770s Colonial-era American dish of baked stuffed striped bass garnished with lemon potato parsley","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese varied throngs gathered at Philadelphia's theatres, circuses and taverns, which according to Washington's household accounts, were also frequented by Posey. After his work was done, the presidential chef went out in the evening dressed to the nines with a gold pocket watch and gold headed cane, likely purchased with money he earned selling the usable scraps from Washington's kitchen that had value on the secondary market for uses like animal feed or fertiliser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The presidential chef went out in the evening dressed to the nines with a gold pocket watch and gold headed cane","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while Posey experienced some autonomy, he wasn't free like his brethren in Philadelphia's Free Black community, which comprised nearly all of the 5% of the city's residents of African descent. Most had gained liberty thanks to Pennsylvania's 1780 Gradual Abolition Law that emancipated enslaved persons remaining in the Commonwealth for more than six months. However, Washington took great pains to subvert the Pennsylvania law and keep Posey and nine other enslaved Africans with him in Philadelphia in a condition of bondage. He did this by rotating Posey and the others out of the city into pro-slavery states like New Jersey across the Delaware River or back to Virginia, thereby continually resetting their time in the city. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENonetheless, constant interactions with successful free food service workers, oystermen and farmers would have likely influenced Hercules' view of the world. He would have seen the path to another life – one in which his skill could sustain him if he were able to escape Washington's grasp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Mount Vernon research historian Mary Thompson, the quasi liberty in which Posey lived – and his status in the kitchen – often confuses people into believing that he had an easier life than those who worked in the field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A small dining room is set at George Washington's Mount Vernon Estate in Virginia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For some people, his 'status' might have made his story harder to understand. They think: why would he have wanted to leave, when he was working for one of the most important men of that time period and had the opportunity to be at, arguably, the summit of his profession as a cook?\" said Thompson, who was among the few early scholars studying George Washington's enslaved people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis confusion frustrates not only historians like Thompson but living history interpreters like Dontavius Williams who portrays Caesar, the highly skilled chef and master chocolatier enslaved at Stratford Hall in Virginia. In his interpretive work, Williams strives to make it clear that whatever limited autonomy or \"pride of place\" cooks like Posey were allowed, it did not make up for the fact that their labour and liberty were stolen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The work for all who were enslaved was gruelling in its own way. However, the work of the cook was extremely taxing mentally and emotionally. Working in extreme conditions under the scrutinising eye of his master and mistress, the enslaved cook had to perform at a high level at all times. There was no room for mistakes,\" said Williams. \"Enslaved cooks had to hold it together and manage a staff while meeting the high standards of the family who owned them, and they worked even during those few times that other enslaved labourers didn't. It was literally a 24\u002F7 job.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chef Hercules is America's first celebrity chef, full stop","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe importance of Philadelphia and its rich opportunities for free African Americans – and for cooks in particular – was becoming clear to Washington by the end of his time there. And so, after spending the summer of 1796 at Mt Vernon, he returned to Philadelphia leaving Posey behind believing he was planning to escape, thus cutting off his access to the city and its strong abolitionist network. But as George Washington Park Custis wrote, Posey was an extraordinary man, and on 22 February 1797, he walked away from Mount Vernon only to be seen once more, four years later in New York City.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe details of what happened after Posey's self-emancipation remained murky for 218 years until I and a research colleague of mine, Sara Krasne, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnews.hamlethub.com\u002Ffairfield\u002Fplaces\u002F48281-whs-staffers-solve-218-yr-old-case-related-to-george-washington\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efound his gravesite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and we later discovered that he used the surname \"Posey\" (surnames were not common among enslaved people). He worked as a cook and caterer until his death on 15 May 1812. The discovery was the apex of all my years of research.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Colonial-style turkey pot pie at City Tavern restaurant in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Posey spent nearly three times as long in New York as he did in Philadelphia, it is Philly where he made a name for himself. And his story is a testament to the standard for presidential dining, even now, but also to black contributions to American culinary history. As American chefs over the centuries sought to mimic what Posey created for the president's table, a style of haute American cuisine was born, one that highlighted local ingredients prepared in an elegant, though not lavish, style that was judiciously seasoned with the best additions the world market could offer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chef Hercules is America's first celebrity chef, full stop,\" said Deetz. \"His story of climbing the ranks in Washington's kitchen, to his flamboyant fashion style, rigid management style and his eventual escape from bondage, elevate his story to nothing short than legendary. He is an American hero.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERamin Ganeshram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is the author of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiebound.org\u002Fbook\u002F9781950691975\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe General's Cook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a novel about the life of Hercules Posey. She is the Executive Director of the \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwestporthistory.org\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWestport Museum for History and Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E where, along with her colleague Sara Krasne, she was able to solve the 218 year old mystery of Chef Hercules Posey's life after self-emancipation from George Washington's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMount Vernon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-01T10:56:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Hercules Posey: George Washington's unsung enslaved chef","headlineShort":"George Washington's unsung black chef","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"This unknown portrait has kept Hercules Posey's legend alive for centuries","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.950442","longitude":"-75.1522786","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"This unknown portrait has kept Hercules Posey's legend alive for centuries","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the late 18th Century, Philadelphia was a city of high-end cuisine; however, few know that many of its culinary masters were of African descent like Hercules Posey.","summaryShort":"\"His story is nothing short than legendary – he is an American hero\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-01T00:00:42.424214Z","entity":"article","guid":"399e2662-4753-4c6e-a256-d2a74e2f08cd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:17.759618Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484344},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","_id":"621d1a3d45ceed745e1269ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's crazy to think they would have sailed right past here,\" Darron Patterson said, pulling his car onto a scrap of grass overlooking the murky Mobile River. As president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclotildastory.com\u002F\"\u003EClotilda Descendants Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Patterson is well versed in talking about the voyage of the Clotilda – the last known slave ship to reach America. His great-great-grandfather was Kupollee, later renamed Pollee Allen; one of the 110 men, women and children cruelly stolen from Benin in West Africa and brought to the US onboard the notorious ship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner was set ablaze","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe story of how Patterson's relative arrived in America aboard an illegal slaver started as a shockingly flippant bet. Fifty-two years after the US banned the importation of enslaved people, in 1860, a wealthy Alabama business owner named Timothy Meaher wagered that he could orchestrate for a haul of kidnapped Africans to sail under the noses of federal officers and evade capture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the assistance of Captain William Foster at the helm of an 80ft, two-mast schooner, and following a gruelling six-week transatlantic passage, he succeeded. The ship sneaked into Mobile Bay on 9 July under a veil of darkness. To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner – made from white oak frames and southern yellow pine planking – was set ablaze and scuttled to the depths of the swampy Mobile River, where it lay concealed beneath the water, its existence relegated to lore. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat is until almost 160 years later, when during a freakishly low tide, a local reporter named Ben Raines discovered a hefty chunk of shipwreck in the Mobile River, initially thought to belong to the Clotilda. It turned out to be a false alarm, but the discovery reignited interest and led to an extensive search involving multiple parties, including the Alabama Historical Commission, National Geographic Society, Search Inc and the Slave Wrecks Project. Following their exhaustive effort, in May 2019 it was finally announced that the elusive Clotilda had at long last been discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A mural of the Clotilda slave ship on Africatown Boulevard in Africatown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENow, three years later, the city of Mobile finds itself standing on the brink of a tourism boom, as interest in the story of the Clotilda, and the lives of its resilient captives, builds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson had agreed to drive me around Africatown, an area where many of the ship's captives finally settled and where Patterson himself was raised. We began the tour at this scrap of land by the Mobile River, beneath a soaring interstate bridge where a group of Clotilda slave ship descendants meet annually for their Under the Bridge festival, to \"talk about how our ancestors got here and to have some food and dance,\" Patterson said. There was no festival that day though and the atmosphere was muted; just one woman and her grandson played by the marshy water's edge below the steady hum of traffic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201117-santo-domingo-the-city-that-kept-slavery-silent\"\u003EThe city that kept slavery silent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\"\u003ECape Town's secret slave ship\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US city transformed by heartbreak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking back to his car, Patterson, a former sportswriter now in his 60s, recalled that growing up, Africatown was a thriving, self-sufficient place, where \"the only time we needed to leave the community was to pay a utility bill\" as everything needed was close to hand, aside from a post office.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated three miles north of downtown Mobile, Africatown was founded by 32 of the original Clotilda survivors following emancipation at the end of the Civil War, in 1865. Longing for the homeland they'd been brutally ripped from, the residents set up their own close-knit community to blend their African traditions with American folkways, raising cattle and farming the land. One of the first towns established and controlled by African Americans in the US, Africatown had its own churches, barbershops, stores (one of which was owned by Patterson's uncle); and the Mobile County Training School, a public school that became the backbone of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, this once-vibrant neighbourhood fell on hard times when a freeway was constructed in the heart of it in 1991, and industrial pollution meant that many of the remaining residents eventually packed up and left. \"We couldn't even hang out our washing to dry because it would get covered in ash [a product of the oil storage tanks and factories on the outskirts of Africatown],\" said Patterson. With the high-profile closure of the corrugated box factory, International Paper, in 2000, and an ensuing public health lawsuit brought about by residents, Africatown's community that had swelled to 12,000 people in the 1960s plummeted to around 2,000, where it stands today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A marker commemorating Cudjoe Kazoola Lewis, one of the Clotilda survivors","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe exodus, poverty and environmental scars were visible as Patterson drove further into Africatown. The roadside was littered with abandoned factories. The quiet, residential streets were peppered with empty lots and vacant homes, some in such disrepair that their decaying walls had surrendered entirely to the creeping vines engulfing them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Africatown is changing, once again. With the discovery of the ship's remnants came the interest necessary to rebuild and preserve this historical place; an influx of attention and funds that is affecting everything from personal relationships to history to the fortune of the neighbourhood. Because, though the story of the Clotilda was known – and the lives of the original passengers were so well documented that photos, interviews and even film footage existed – without evidence of the vessel, the history was buried and it was not in the interest of the white population to acknowledge the truth of how they had arrived. Finding the vessel allowed their story to be affirmed and truth to be restored after decades of denial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the almost three years since the Clotilda was discovered, the wreck has undergone extensive archaeological exploration to determine the likelihood of raising it safely. The ripple effect of media and public interest has meant a slew of government, community and private funding for Africatown's revitalisation, including The Africatown Redevelopment Corporation, which is using grants to restore homes in disrepair and demolishing and rebuilding derelict lots. Added to this is a $3.6 million payout from a BP oil spill settlement that has been earmarked for the long-awaited rebuilding of the Africatown Welcome Center, which was swept away in 2005 by Hurricane Katrina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson drove me to his grandmother's house and pulled over to chat with an elderly neighbour on her porch (\"no photos, mind\", she requested politely). Unlike some of the other descendent families, he told me, growing up he was told little of his ancestry. \"I think my folks may have been embarrassed,\" he reflected, recalling that the smuggled captives had faced many humiliations, including being stripped naked for the voyage. \"That must have just broke their will,\" Patterson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Africatown street overlooking the Mobile Country Training School","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe 2019 announcement of the ship's discovery galvanised Patterson's curiosity, and he started to piece together his heritage, at which point his \"whole life changed\". He's since become hands-on in ensuring the story is told accurately, including an onscreen role in the film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt16376494\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDescendant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E premiering at the 2022 Sundance Film Festival and as co-producer of the second installment of the forthcoming documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southalabama.edu\u002Fdepartments\u002Fpublicrelations\u002Fpressreleases\u002F060418africatown.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 110: The Last Enslaved Africans Brought to America\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about the Clotilda's passengers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Patterson, the discovery of the infamous ship brings fresh hope that Africatown is on the eve of a renaissance. Following years of denial, \"the ship's very existence has finally been affirmed, so a burden has been lifted,\" said Mobile County Commissioner Merceria Ludgood. \"That's every bit as important to the ethos of Africatown as the housing revitalisation currently happening.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough there's a lack of restaurants and tourism facilities, that could be all set to change as well, said Ludgood, who is helping to set up the Africatown Heritage House, a permanent museum created in collaboration with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.historymuseumofmobile.com\u002F\"\u003EHistory Museum of Mobile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to chart the history of Africatown. \"Hopefully cottage industries will spring up, owned by people who live in the community,\" she said, noting that the discovery of the Clotilda has given Africatown's community a boost, resonating far beyond economics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENext on Patterson's tour was the Africatown Heritage House, situated in the hub of the neighbourhood, overlooked by a row of modest, well-kept bungalows on a palm-lined avenue. Currently under construction, the museum is due to open in early summer 2022 and will include a gallery of West African artefacts as well as salvaged sections of the Clotilda shipwreck, presented in preservation tanks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt promises a unique insight, given the relatively recent timing of the Clotilda voyage in relation to the history of slavery. \"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation,\" explained Meg McCrummen Fowler, director of the History Museum of Mobile. \"There's just an abundance of sources, mostly because it occurred so late. Several of the people on the ship lived well into the 20th Century, so instead of silence there's diaries, there's ship records.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Building site of Africatown Heritage House in Mobile, Alabama","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther regeneration projects on the horizon include a footbridge connecting the two areas of Africatown currently divided by the freeway. Water tours taking visitors close to the shipwreck site are scheduled to launch in spring 2022, and a few local residents ahead of the curve are offering walking tours of Africatown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile tourists have yet to arrive in serious numbers, Africatown faces a familiar set of challenges to other US neighbourhoods experiencing rapid revitalisation, including ensuring the whole community supports change and that residents don't fall through the cracks. But Patterson said that the Africatown community is united in its mission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're all on board with this,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe final stop on our tour was the cemetery where many of the Clotilda's enslaved have been laid to rest. As we walked, Patterson told me that with the light currently shinning on this troubling chapter of history, he has hopes that there will be enough sustained interest to generate the funds needed to raise the schooner from the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the true impact of this fabled ship's discovery is yet to be seen, for Patterson, it presents an opportunity to lift up the Africatown community and honour the struggles of its founders. \"This is about more than bricks and mortar, it's ultimately about the growth of our souls,\" he said, looking out over their crumbling gravestones, all facing east towards their motherland. \"Finding the ship has finally validated our truth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Darron Patterson standing on the site of the future Africatown Welcome Center, Mobile","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Facebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Twitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-08T10:23:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The last known ship of the US slave trade","headlineShort":"The last ship of the US slave trade","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.6954","longitude":"-88.0399","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","summaryShort":"It's led to a new start for the settlement built by the original survivors","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-07T21:24:51.763388Z","entity":"article","guid":"ecdd9815-5480-432c-969b-e62f1822c21c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:40.005003Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484344},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","_id":"6225231e45ceed354e352c06","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flarry-bleiberg"],"bodyIntro":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAdam Malick Sow had a headache. He was several hours into his trip from New York to Washington DC, and after his limousine crossed into the state of Maryland, he asked his driver to find a place to stop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few miles later, the newly appointed ambassador to the United States from the African nation of Chad stepped into a diner along US Route 40 and asked for a cup of coffee. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe answer on a summer day in 1961 would change history. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wife of the diner's owner refused to serve the diplomat because he was black. \"He looked like just an ordinary run of the mill [N-word] to me. I couldn't tell he was an ambassador,\" Mrs Leroy Merritt later told the national magazine Life. \"I said 'There's no table service here'.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe insult sparked an international incident, making the front page of newspapers across Africa and Asia. Soon after, diplomats from Niger, Cameroon and Togo reported similar experiences at Maryland restaurants. Like others, they travelled on the same highway from the United Nations in New York to their embassies in Washington. And their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle that paved the way toward outlawing segregation in the United States. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, not even a marker commemorates the dozens of demonstrations that followed along the road, and most travellers zoom by the area on Interstate 95, one of the busiest highways in the country. But if they look carefully, they can find traces of the remarkable story of US Route 40, which parallels Interstate 95 in northern Maryland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's how I found myself pushing aside weeds along a busy four-lane road looking for a half-buried stone indicating the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-40638673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMason-Dixon Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the demarcation between the US North and South. On its eastern edge, the line marks the boundary between the states of Delaware and Maryland. Local historian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dixonhistory.com\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMike Dixon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E had shown me where to find it. \"That line had a lot of meaning,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Delaware had some segregated restaurants at the time, in Maryland it was the rule. In 1961, once travellers crossed into the state, they were subject to the laws of the South, where blacks were routinely denied service at restaurants, stores and hotels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I developed a deep hatred – one shared by many – for Route 40","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStokely Carmichael, a pioneer in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.archives.gov\u002Fresearch\u002Fafrican-americans\u002Fblack-power\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Power movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, faced regular humiliations as a college student when he stopped for meals along the road. \"I developed a deep hatred – one shared by many – for Route 40,\" he wrote in his book Ready for Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut once the region's entrenched racism started to ensnare diplomats, US president John F Kennedy was forced to take notice. The incidents were an embarrassment in the middle of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fcoldwar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECold War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, threatening US global influence. One State Department official shared his frustration with a reporter at the time: \"Those damn limousines always seem to run out of gas just as soon as they get to Maryland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh12"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd Kennedy wasn't particularly gracious about it either. \"Can't you tell those African ambassadors not to drive on Route 40. It's a hell of a road,\" he complained to a staff member. \"I wouldn't think of driving from New York to Washington. Tell them to fly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe issues were hardly new. Nearly 60 years before the diplomats' complaints, the state of Maryland passed a law requiring segregation on public transportation. Black train passengers were forced to move to a \"coloured car\" when they arrived in Maryland. A few months later, a black law professor refused to give up his seat and was arrested, leading to a legal case that eventually overturned part of the law. The court prohibited segregation for interstate passengers whose trip originated outside of Maryland but allowed it for those who were travelling inside the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, a small brick train station, just off Route 40 in Elkton, Maryland, is used for storage. Dozens of Amtrak trains zoom by daily, without an indication that for a time the town was a stop to sort passengers by race. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 1960s, the sorting was happening at diners, restaurants and hotels. In the weeks after the incident with Ambassador Sow, the federal government quietly began to pressure Maryland restaurateurs to serve diplomats travelling through the area. But no sooner had some of the businesses agreed to comply, then the issue flared up again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree black reporters from Maryland's Afro-American newspaper staged an elaborate charade. Two dressed up in tailcoats and top hats, and a third donned a robe and leopard-skin crown. They presented themselves at Route 40 restaurants, claiming to be officials from the non-existent East African country of Goban. One, who called himself Orfa (Afro spelled backwards), posed as the minister of finance. In their subsequent article, the journalists documented that they were served at most restaurants as long as they pretended that they weren't American. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe article outraged many. \"It would drive you crazy if you pondered it long enough,\" said Charles Mason, a black Baltimore resident who was 21 at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe worked with the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), a national bi-racial group devoted to desegregation, organising picket lines along Route 40. The group called the effort Freedom Rides, a nod to the movement fighting segregation on buses and in public accommodation across the Deep South. CORE distributed a brochure listing restaurants that claimed to serve all travellers and ones that still were segregated. \"Help complete the job,\" it urged protestors. \"End racial discrimination along US 40.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason, now 82, joined demonstrations on weekends, dressing in a suit and tie, while women wore dresses. \"We wanted to show a good image.\" Often, they were greeted by hostile crowds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were scared. All of us were scared,\" he said. He remembers white people screaming and hollering and \"wanting to bash me in the head\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason will be featured in a Black history exhibit opening in May at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mdhistory.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fpassion-and-purpose\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaryland Center for History and Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amynathanbooks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmy Nathan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Maryland author who writes about the civil rights movement, said the recognition is long overdue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These were individual efforts by people who had just had enough, and they saw things needed to be changed,\" Nathan said. \"They were just walking back and forth in front of a roadside restaurant, but it's good to remember that what may seem like a small effort, when combined with other efforts, may have a big result.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of the businesses that faced protests are long gone, replaced by strip shopping centres, fast food restaurants and petrol stations. But a few remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt one, the Bar-H Chuck House in the Maryland town of North East, four demonstrators were arrested when they refused to leave. After they were jailed, three staged a hunger strike, Dixon told me. The county sheriff sent the strikers to the state mental hospital, saying the prisoners had to be insane to refuse food. But within 24 hours, they were back at the lockup. \"The state psychiatrist said: 'They aren't crazy, they're just protesting for social justice',\" Dixon said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh0k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe diner's now called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fm.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002Fcategory\u002FDiner\u002FNorth-East-Family-Restaurant-729520420768121\u002F\"\u003ENorth East Family Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and owned by Ed Omar, originally from Alexandria, Egypt. He had never heard the story until I stopped by one morning. \"I just learned something new,\" he said. \"I'm North African. Look at me. I'd be the first one they'd kick out. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaitress April Jones can't imagine refusing to serve someone who was black. \"Are you serious?\" she said. \"It is crazy. It's changed a lot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI had a similar experience less than 20 miles down the road at the former Sportsmen Grill, which in 1961 faced white picketers carrying signs with messages like: \"Let's Have Dinner Together\" and \"Let's End Racism in America Now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the restaurant in Aberdeen operates as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frayscaribbean.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERay's Caribbean American Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Owner Rayshad Beepath, an immigrant from Trinidad and Tobago, was amazed when I showed him a picture of the protest. \"I had no idea, no clue\" he said. \"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh18"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe demonstrations had their effect. In 1963, Maryland passed a law banning discrimination in hotels, restaurants and other accommodations. \"The protests galvanised the governor and the legislature. It was the first state civil rights act,\" said James Karmel, a college professor and director of the Harford Civil Rights Project, which has created a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharfordcivilrights.org\u002Ftours\u002Fshow\u002F3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and app (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fus\u002Fapp\u002Fid1588420953\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=org.curatescape.HarfordCivilRights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) documenting the local Freedom Rides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the victory came almost too late for Route 40. On 14 November 1963, John F Kennedy helicoptered to the area to dedicate a new limited-access highway that would become part of Interstate 95.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors stopping for a bathroom break or fast food at the highway's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitdelaware.com\u002Flistings\u002Fbiden-welcome-center\u002F5168\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBiden Welcome Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E can see pictures of Kennedy posing with dignitaries, and even watch a video of his brief speech.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn what would be one of his last public appearances before he was assassinated eight days later, Kennedy stood on a podium built on the Maryland-Delaware state border – the Mason-Dixon Line – to dedicate the road. He noted it would play a crucial role in linking cities on the US East Coast. And although Kennedy didn't mention it, there was another benefit too: travellers on the new highway wouldn't have to drive on Route 40.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-07T10:04:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The US highway that helped break segregation","headlineShort":"Where diplomats were denied coffee","image":["p0bslgxs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.4840363","longitude":"-76.2118752","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bslh1j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","summaryShort":"Their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-06T21:09:33.586808Z","entity":"article","guid":"23f22641-3d0b-4348-9d5e-add16d0cdced","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-07T12:54:47.932285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484343},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law","_id":"621e444845ceed5d4833f8ad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"‘Aloha’ is a legal concept that grew out of the necessity for Hawaiians to live in peace and work together, in harmony with the land and their spiritual beliefs.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was mid-afternoon on our second day living in Hawaii, and I woke up groggy from a much-needed power nap. I stumbled into the kitchen where my girlfriend was sitting on the floor with the guy from the cable company. He had come to set up our internet – something we direly needed, because our house is situated in a lush valley with no mobile phone signal. But, I realised, they weren’t even talking about the internet. Instead, I found, he was inviting her to come boar hunting with him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171015-why-norway-is-teaching-travellers-to-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe code that travellers need to learn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170818-the-swedish-word-thats-displacing-hygge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish word poached by the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170605-the-greek-word-that-cant-be-translated\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Greek word that can’t be translated\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the days passed, the friendly happenings increased. We stopped by a neighbourhood farm and were offered avocados from the caretaker’s tree. We arrived at the end of a hiking trail, or so we thought, when a passing father and daughter offered to show us the secret additional part of the path that led up a rock face, over boulders and through a stream to a hidden waterfall. On another occasion, we were headed for a swim in the ocean, when someone on shore warned us that the current was too strong to swim safely, then offered us a beer and invited us to go canoeing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere may be many words to explain these kinds of encounters, but at least one of them is ‘Aloha’. And as it turns out, ‘Aloha’ is actually the law here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHawaii now hosts almost nine million visitors a year, and ‘Aloha’ is a word that most of those tourists will hear during their time on the islands. The word is used in place of hello and goodbye, but it means much more than that. It’s also a shorthand for the spirit of the islands – the people and the land – and what makes this place so unique.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003EAlo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means ‘face to face’ and \u003Cem\u003EHa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means ‘breath of life’,” according to Davianna Pōmaikaʻi McGregor, a Hawaii historian and founding member of the Department of Ethnic Studies at the University of Hawaii, Manoa. But McGregor also noted that there are several less literal, but equally valid, interpretations of the word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Aloha is a concept that grew out of the necessity for Hawaiians to live in peace and work together","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne especially memorialised interpretation was shared by a respected Maui elder named Pilahi Paki at the 1970 conference, Hawaii 2000, where people had gathered to discuss the past, present and future of Hawaii. It was a time of heightened disagreement in the islands, over Vietnam and other political issues, and Paki stood up to give an emotional speech about the Aloha Spirit – in other words, the unique spiritual and cultural code of a Hawaii that is uniting rather than divisive. In it, she described what Aloha meant about the way people should treat one another.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn her speech, she broke each letter of ‘Aloha’ down to one phrase. And that speech became the basis for Hawaii’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.capitol.hawaii.gov\u002Fhrscurrent\u002FVol01_Ch0001-0042F\u002FHRS0005\u002FHRS_0005-0007_0005.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAloha Spirit law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which essentially mandates consideration and kindness:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Akahai, meaning kindness to be expressed with tenderness;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Lōkahi, meaning unity, to be expressed with harmony;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E ʻOluʻolu, meaning agreeable, to be expressed with pleasantness;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Haʻahaʻa, meaning humility, to be expressed with modesty;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Ahonui, meaning patience, to be expressed with perseverance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the Aloha Spirit law didn’t become official until 1986, its origins are deeply rooted in native Hawaiian culture. Aloha is a concept that grew out of the necessity for Hawaiians to live in peace and work together, in harmony with the land and their spiritual beliefs, McGregor told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt makes sense. Hawaii is the most isolated population centre in the world: the California coast is around 2,400 miles away; Japan is more than 4,000 miles. The islands are small – most (like Maui, where I live) can be driven around in a single day. Then, as now, there are no bridges connecting the islands, and even inter-island travel is a challenge. With nowhere to go, the only option, it would seem, is to get along.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Being isolated, historically, our ancestors needed to treat each other and the land, which has limited resources, with respect,” McGregor said. “For Hawaiians, the main source of labour was human. So there was a need for collective work among extended families and a high value placed on having loving and respectful relationships.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike any place, she added, Hawaii had its problems with people abusing power. But, she said, there’s evidence that if a chief was not acting ‘‘with Aloha”, peace-loving Hawaiians would find ways to get rid of them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s not so different from how the Aloha Spirit law is applied today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the Hawaii State Attorney’s Office, the law is mostly symbolic, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t work – especially when political leaders or business people get out of line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This law is virtually impossible to enforce because it is a philosophy that directs a code of conduct and way of life. Nonetheless… all citizens and government officials of Hawaii are obligated to conduct themselves in accordance with this law,” Dana Viola, first deputy attorney general of Hawaii, said in an email.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf a business or a government official doesn’t act with Aloha Spirit, they could lose business or be chastised publicly. “So the consequences are real,” she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Wendell Kekailoa Perry, assistant professor at the Hawai'inuiakea School of Hawaiian knowledge, who has studied the Aloha Spirit law in depth, said that the law and its sentiment aren’t always positive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Aloha Spirit is used to argue that everyone in Hawaii can ‘feel’ and should accept the love for humanity… [and] says that the Aloha Spirit transcends race, differences and embraces togetherness or ‘equality’. That is a problem because it ignores all of the complexities of our life and society,” Perry said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Maybe, on a good day, the law can support Hawaiian rights,” he added. But on a bad day, he said, it can be used to silence native Hawaiians who are protesting injustices in the islands. When that happens, “The Aloha they are using is actually part of the ‘passive’ and ‘don’t-make-waves’ native identity created during the US occupation and control. But, if you look at the thousands of debates that were publicly expressed in Hawaiian language newspapers and protests, it is obvious that passivity was not the only Hawaiian cultural practice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore Paki, who inspired the law, passed away, she reportedly said that with Aloha, and the mutual respect that it entails, “Hawaiians have the power to save world culture.” Although the law likely has its flaws, it’s something that still resonates in the islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Visitors to Hawaii often talk about how Hawaii is a beautiful place, but the most special part of their experience has been the people, and how nice people are,” said Hawaii State Representative Tulsi Gabbard. “People across the United States and around the world ultimately want peace... By truly living Aloha – having respect and love for others – we can be empowered to overcome those differences and find solutions that best serve the wellbeing of people and our planet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Aloha, for me, is kindness and harmony – something important to keep in mind between ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOften, when people think of Hawaii, it’s in the context of a holiday. When I moved here two months ago, a friend said “Think of me when you’re having cocktails on the beach.” He imagined an idyllic, one-dimensional version of my life that doesn’t square with the reality. There’s still work to do, bills to pay, shopping and laundry to do and all the other trappings of a normal life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Aloha Spirit law is somewhat similar. It’s an idealised version of something that does exist, but is far too complicated to fit in a one-page definition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor now, I’ll say that Aloha, for me, is kindness and harmony – something important to keep in mind between ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-04-23T20:49:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"In Hawaii, being nice is the law","headlineShort":"Where being nice is the law","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"‘Aloha’ is a legal concept that grew out of the necessity for Hawaiians to live in peace and work together, in harmony with the land and their spiritual beliefs.","summaryShort":"In the world’s most isolated population centre, there was no other choice","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:16:41.994928Z","entity":"article","guid":"3e528064-ac13-4fde-9693-b4a7caf09dd7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:28:21.283739Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness","_id":"621e445745ceed6b8462ccb9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Acts of kindness have come to define the coronavirus pandemic, but in some nations, traditions of generosity and helping one another go back centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EActs of kindness have come to define the coronavirus pandemic, whether that’s tales of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-51886547\u002Fcoronavirus-italians-sing-from-their-windows-to-boost-morale\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItalians singing in unison\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on their balconies or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-51895386\u002Fcoronavirus-spain-and-italy-applaud-health-workers\"\u003Ecommunities applauding the medical professionals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the frontline. These stories have the ability to make us feel that we’re bigger than just this crisis, and that together we can overcome our fears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat’s why BBC Travel is celebrating those places around the world that already have a long tradition of generosity and helping one another. From the ancient Greek concept of hospitality to the Persian poets espousing kindness, these traditions will shine a light on the goodness that already exists across the planet, as well as give us new ideas of how to live our best lives going forward.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPhiloxenia, Greece \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Greece, guests are typically treated like guests of honour, with a simple dinner invitation usually translating to a veritable feast at which the visitor’s wine glass is kept topped up by the attentive host. While this is characteristic of many cultures today, the cradle of Western civilisation is widely thought to have invented the tradition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Ancient Greece, the proper provision of hospitality was considered a commandment of the gods, specifically Zeus Xenios, the god of foreigners or strangers. Should a weary traveller arrive on one’s doorstep, the host was obliged to welcome them with food and shelter before asking any questions, whether they knew the guest or not. In return, the guest was obliged to show respect to the host via gestures such as staying only as long as necessary. For either party to fail in their obligation was considered an offense worthy of Zeus Xenios’ divine wrath.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERead more:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171204-the-european-city-that-loves-strangers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe European city that loves strangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETaken from the Greek words \u003Cem\u003Exenia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (stranger) and \u003Cem\u003Ephilo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (care for), the concept became known as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171204-the-european-city-that-loves-strangers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephiloxenia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or love of strangers (and later \u003Cem\u003Ehospitum,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or hospitality), scenes of which are found throughout the works of Homer. The\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003EOdyssey\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, for example, recounts its protagonist’s tireless search for hospitality on his journey home to Ithaca, while the Iliad recalls the Greeks’ reaction to a blatant violation of the proper host-guest conduct during the Trojan War, which occurred when Paris, leaving Sparta, “stole” his host’s wife, Helen of Sparta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong with being particularly gracious in their hospitality, this tradition of kindness is kept alive today through small gestures such as offering a friendly smile to a stranger, or escorting a lost traveller to their destination rather than simply providing directions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETaarof, Iran\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first snows don’t tend to fall in Mashhad, tucked up in the mountains of north-east Iran, until January, but by December, the nation’s second-largest city is already in the icy grip of winter. Reportedly out of concern for the city’s sizeable homeless population, an anonymous local took to the streets in December 2015, painting a wall in bright colours and installing pegs and hangers. Beside it, a painted message in Farsi read: “If you don’t need it, leave it. If you need it, take it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMashhad’s residents answered the call with enthusiasm, donating warm clothes they could spare. An instant hit on social media, these “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fblogs-trending-35132157\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewalls of kindness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” soon spread throughout Iran and beyond, with the initiative taking various forms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you don’t need it, leave it. If you need it, take it.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBakeries began leaving out baskets of bread encouraging those who couldn’t pay to help themselves; and as buskers strummed their guitars on street corners, signs in their tip jars invited passers-by to take the money if they needed it. Tehran’s fast-food outlets introduced a system whereby customers could pin a meal order to a noticeboard for someone less fortunate to trade in, reminiscent of Italy’s \u003Cem\u003Ecaffè sospeso\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (suspended coffee) tradition revived in Naples around a decade ago, whereby a cafe patron can buy a coffee in advance for someone less well-off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERead more: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161104-the-persian-art-of-etiquette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Persian art of etiquette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile charitable giving has always been an important Islamic custom, the walls of kindness movement is rooted in Persian culture, which reveres the language of ancient poets such as Rumi, who espoused the virtues of kindness. This spirit of kindness has also manifested in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161104-the-persian-art-of-etiquette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Etaarof\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or the Persian art of etiquette, in which politeness holds the place of honour in every social interaction. Despite the coronavirus pandemic that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-51642926\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehas tested\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the nation’s philanthropic spirit to the limit, these gestures of kindness towards strangers continue today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUbuntu, South Africa\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe word comes from the Nguni languages spoken by some of Africa’s first peoples, but \u003Cem\u003Eubuntu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E didn’t appear in written sources until the mid-19th Century, rising to prominence in the midst of South Africa’s transition from the apartheid regime to a democracy that included all races.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile definitions of ubuntu have varied over the years, the Nguni proverb “\u003Cem\u003Eumuntu ngumuntu ngabantu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (often translated as “a person is a person through other persons”) is most commonly used to describe the concept.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ubuntu speaks particularly about the fact that you can’t exist as a human being in isolation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn practice, ubuntu is a belief that the common bonds of a group are more important than the divisions within it. As Nelson Mandela once wrote, ubuntu is, “The profound sense that we are human only through the humanity of others; that if we are to accomplish anything in this world, it will in equal measure be due to the work and achievements of others.” In South Africa, the philosophy manifests in displays of kindness and compassion, particularly towards people of different cultural backgrounds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFormer South African archbishop Desmond Tutu harnessed the concept of ubuntu when leading the nation’s Truth and Reconciliation Commission in the mid-1990s, with his Christian perception recognising the importance of forgiveness, reconciliation and peaceful coexistence. In a comment that has particular poignancy in 2020, Tutu once said that “Ubuntu speaks particularly about the fact that you can’t exist as a human being in isolation. It speaks about our interconnectedness. You can't be human all by yourself, and when you have this quality – ubuntu – you are known for your generosity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOmotenashi, Japan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOften described as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160415-the-worlds-most-polite-country\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world’s most polite country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Japan’s tradition of selfless hospitality is the product of a tradition known as omotenashi. Literally translating to “spirit of service”, this cornerstone of Japanese culture is grounded in the centuries-old ritual of the \u003Cem\u003Esado\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tea ceremony), which requires a high degree of attentiveness on the host’s behalf to ensure their guests’ every need is fulfilled, without expecting anything in return. The guests, conscious of the host’s efforts, respond by showing an almost reverential gratitude. Both parties thus create an environment of harmony and respect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile perhaps no Japanese custom better representsomotenashi than the \u003Cem\u003Esado, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eomotenashi\u003Cem\u003E has become a way of life in Japan. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EStaff in shops and restaurants greet customers with a warm “\u003Cem\u003Eirasshaimase”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (welcome) as you step inside; \u003Cem\u003Es\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehinkansen\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bullet train) cleaners bow to boarding passengers; and taxi drivers open the doors for passengers automatically. An even greater level of politeness is shown to people outside one’s own group, with foreigners typically accorded lavish courtesies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERead more: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160415-the-worlds-most-polite-country\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world’s most polite country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EButomotenashi isn’t Japan’s only tradition of kindness. Known as \u003Cem\u003Esenbetsu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the practice of giving a gift to someone departing on holiday, or perhaps leaving their job, dates back to ancient times, when gifts were bestowed on people setting off on pilgrimages as a way of ensuring the traveller would enjoy some comfort on their journey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fneighbourly-love\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fneighbourly-love\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENeighbourly love\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis an uplifting and emotionally engaging BBC Travel series that shows how acts of generosity can have profound effects in destinations around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ELaunched in 1997 in response to then-prime minister Goh Chok Tong’s call for Singapore to become a more gracious society by the 21st Century, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kindness.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESingapore Kindness Movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E encourages the island’s citizens to make a commitment to gracious living through simple acts of kindness in their daily activities. During the coronavirus pandemic, the organisation has urged Singaporeans to help “fight the virus with kindness” through acts such as making thank-you cards for frontline workers, and checking in on friends and colleagues via socially responsible methods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Singapore’s modern kindness movement","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-13T23:36:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Four countries with a tradition of kindness","headlineShort":"What can we learn from ‘kind’ nations?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Acts of kindness have come to define the coronavirus pandemic, but in some nations, traditions of generosity and helping one another go back centuries.","summaryShort":"Four countries with centuries-old traditions of generosity and compassion","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:47:31.598689Z","entity":"article","guid":"4b774a32-a9ad-4b34-88b2-a20aa4dd3750","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:07:20.242493Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood","_id":"621e444c45ceed64b8500052","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Practiced since as long as Hawaiians can remember, hoʻoponopono is necessary on an island where space and resources are limited and the community is key to survival.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELeslie Tuchman was visiting the Hawaiian Islands when she came across the concept of ‘hoʻoponopono’ in her Reiki class, introduced by her teacher as a word for self-forgiveness. Tuchman quickly read all the books she could on the subject, fascinated by the idea of empowering and cleansing her spiritual self. But what Tuchman didn’t know at the time – and what most travellers to Hawaii are also unaware of – is the traditional meaning of this word has been somewhat lost in translation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180402-mamihlapinatapai-a-lost-languages-untranslatable-legacy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient word no-one can translate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere being nice is the law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unexpected philosophy Icelanders live by\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERather than simply being about self-forgiveness per se, traditional hoʻoponopono tends to be more complex, and, like most cultural practices in Hawaii, centres on relationships. The roots of the word are hoʻo (to bring about) and pono (rightness). Repeated syllables, as in ‘ponopono’, often express an emphasis in Hawaiian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s about a sense of community and communal feeling of responsibility towards an issue","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe relatively new association with self-forgiveness is largely due to the influence of the teachings of Dr Ihaleakala Hew Len, co-author of the 2007 book Zero Limits, which propagates a type of hoʻoponopono known as ‘Self Identity Through Hoʻoponopono’ (SITH). SITH is a self-focused, mental cleansing method based on four mantras: I’m sorry; please forgive me; thank you; and I love you. This method is the definition of hoʻoponopono that is currently most common in alternative healing circles and off-island media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETraditional hoʻoponopono can be a process that takes a day, or in some cases, years. It’s about a sense of community and communal feeling of responsibility towards an issue. In hoʻoponopono, one person’s issue becomes the entire group’s, and together, with consultation of the group’s elders, they find a resolution that is accepted by the whole community. Practiced since as long as Hawaiians can remember, it is necessary on an island where space and resources are limited and the community is key to survival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was Aunty Malia Craver, a Hawaiian cultural practitioner, who was the first to introduce the concept onto a global stage. In 2000, she made a speech at the 53rd annual DPI\u002FNGO Conference at the United Nations in New York, and spoke about concepts relating to hoʻoponopono. The term, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farchives.starbulletin.com\u002F2000\u002F08\u002F09\u002Fnews\u002Fstory9.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas she told the Honolulu Star-Bulletin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before the speech, means “a method to resolve family and personal conflicts and achieve peace”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince then, the word hoʻoponopono has been taken out of context and exoticised, as the term swells in popularity both in Hawaii and off-island. As a popular destination for spa-seekers and alternative health practitioners alike, it is not uncommon to see the word hoʻoponopono used in healing circles across Hawaii. One workshop on the Big Island promises a certificate in self-therapy, citing a class in hoʻoponopono for level 1 attendees, while online learning platform \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.udemy.com\u002Fhooponopono-online-course-the-art-of-forgiveness\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUdemy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sells a course on this ‘Technique of Forgiveness’. Earlier this July, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cosmopolitan.fr\u002Fl-ho-oponopono-pour-trouver-l-amour-comment-ca-marche,2015211.asp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench Cosmopolitan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E even published an article on hoʻoponopono, calling it \u003Cem\u003ELa recette Hawaïenne pour trouver l'amour\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (The Hawaiian recipe for finding love).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany Hawaiian cultural practitioners feel it can be harmful when the word is misused or taken out of its cultural context. “Cultural integrity is a big struggle right now for indigenous cultures worldwide,” said Laulani Teale, an activist trained in hoʻoponopono who often applies its concepts in her community work. “When things are taken out of our cultures and applied in ways in which those outside the culture want to apply them, especially for profit, there is almost always a problem.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a child growing up on the Big Island, I often heard the word used by government officials, urging people not to escalate conflict. My mother, a cultural practitioner of Hawaiian medicine, recalls a different childhood memory: attending what she believed at the time to be her grandfather’s birthday party. But the party was secondary to the gathering’s real purpose of hoʻoponopono. That afternoon, the adults were deep in serious discussion – uncharacteristic for her jovial family, she remembers – that lasted for hours into the night. The children sat quietly, listening until overtaken by sleep. When dawn arrived, the adults had reached a resolution to their family conflict involving a property dispute. The ritual concluded by breaking fast with specific fishes caught earlier for this purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis decision to not move on until a point of mutual understanding had been reached is a practice that mindful travellers might well learn from. A clear understanding of hoʻoponopono can deepen an appreciation of the Hawaiian culture, and, on a broader scale, help to approach travel more mindfully. Since hoʻoponopono is at its core a tool for communication, the word itself can be a reminder to listen to all voices, have meaningful discussions and make earnest efforts to understand another person, culture or country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We accept maintaining relationships as essential, whether it’s between people or environment or the greater thought","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We accept maintaining relationships as essential, whether it’s between people or environment or the greater thought,” my mother told me. “In an island community, there’s only so much space, and it has to be shared by all. It has to be perpetuated, protected and enhanced, but as a group, because if you get too self-serving, the group doesn’t really function well.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Malcolm Nāea Chun, who is the author of numerous books on Hawaiian beliefs, told me that using the term hoʻoponopono to describe a family resolution technique is a relatively recent development. In the 19th Century, the word was chiefly reserved for matters of legal or administrative discussion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Back in traditional times, before writing and printing came into place, people didn’t have a name for this... They just did it,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Christianity spread throughout Hawaii, many Hawaiians abandoned ritualistic practices like family conference in favour of more Western ideas of medicine and spirituality. As a result, many Hawaiian families lost the practice in daily life, and it was sustained only in small pockets of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Back in traditional times, people didn’t have a name for this... They just did it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to the Hawaiian cultural revival that began in the 1960s following the Hawaii Admission Act and statehood, hoʻoponopono is once again a well-known process among locals. These days, it is used as a conflict resolution process in many arenas: in the courtroom, in prisons, leadership programmes and working with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.staradvertiser.com\u002F2016\u002F01\u002F11\u002Fhawaii-news\u002Fhawaiians-at-risk-healing-efforts-return-to-roots\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etroubled youths\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In 2015, arrested activists who protested the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fblogs-trending-32239000\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETMT telescope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Mauna Kea made a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.staradvertiser.com\u002F2015\u002F07\u002F07\u002Fbreaking-news\u002Farrested-mauna-kea-protesters-ask-for-hooponopono\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eformal request\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the court to participate in hoʻoponopono in lieu of a trial. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.khon2.com\u002Fnews\u002Flocal-news\u002Ffacebook-founder-addresses-legal-land-battle-on-kauai_20180104063336828\u002F901505901\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAs reported by local station Khon2\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, when Facebook founder and CEO Mark Zuckerberg filed a lawsuit over land on Kauaʻi in 2017, State Rep. Kaniela Ing criticised his approach as culturally insensitive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s not Hawaii style to initiate conversation through a lawsuit,” Ing said in a statement. “We're used to going next door, knocking on the door and saying, ‘Hey, let’s hoʻoponopono and let’s talk about this’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWithin the Hawaiian community, hoʻoponopono outreach is often offered free of charge as a means to restore the practice within families. Visitors to the islands may encounter the word in newspapers, magazines, books, on TV or while overhearing a conversation between locals. But to really understand the concept, travellers should look at the way Hawaiians treat each other. Hawaiians value unity and harmonious relationships, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas seen in the Aloha Law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, it is not enough to treat others with aloha. In order to feel unified and part of the community, Hawaiians must have a genuine feeling of connection and justice that only comes through open discussion and dialogue. Though traditional hoʻoponopono usually takes place in private, aspects of the practice are incorporated in daily life all over the islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn a restaurant or on the beach, tourists might see Hawaiians engage in kūkākūkā, or ‘talk story’, a genuine discussion. If they want to learn more about how to apply the practice to their own lives, they can take a workshop from health programmes like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hawaiitribune-herald.com\u002F2018\u002F03\u002F09\u002Fcommunity\u002Fthe-healing-medicine-hui-malama-offering-free-laau-lapaau-workshops-on-hawaii-island\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHui Malama Ola Na 'Oiwi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Hawaii Community College even offers a distance-learning course titled ‘Introduction to Hoʻoponopono’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The best part of Hawaiian values is that they can be applied anywhere you go","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Pono means to be righteous, but it connotes being authentic and genuine in how you are as a person, in how you relate to others,” said Aunty Lynette Paglinawan, who teaches hoʻoponopono classes at the\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwestoahu.hawaii.edu\u002Fekamakanihou\u002F?p=6179\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E University of Hawai'i West O'ahu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “It means living a righteous lifestyle that illustrates love, respect, concern, following true with promises and commitments. These are values by which you live.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor decades, the global picture of Hawaii has been one of exotic idyll. Beyond the palm trees and plumeria lei, however, exists a tight-knit community that esteems honesty, forgiveness and harmony. The best part of Hawaiian values is that they can be applied anywhere you go. Though I have lived far from Hawaii for many years, I am still amazed how much of those values I still learn from and apply to my daily life or when travelling in strange, new lands. Whether it is a tool for self-forgiveness or for family conversation, hoʻoponopono is a practice that resonates in every landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-09-17T20:45:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Hawaii’s trendy word that’s misunderstood","headlineShort":"The trendy word that’s misunderstood","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Practiced since as long as Hawaiians can remember, hoʻoponopono is necessary on an island where space and resources are limited and the community is key to survival.","summaryShort":"It’s a practice that resonates all over the world","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:23:23.519103Z","entity":"article","guid":"e02994de-f7e0-489a-980c-454e4a2895fa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:36:17.536741Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude","_id":"6221335745ceed5ec915d28f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ferinne-magee"],"bodyIntro":"They're not as well-known as flower leis – but feather leis are part of a Hawaiian tradition dating back 250 years, one that a local family is working hard to bring back.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWe know the Hawaiian lei as a celebratory tradition in the islands, the fragrance from the floral garland uplifting a room long after its flowers have wilted.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA feather lei, on the other hand, may be void of scent – but it is filled with the \u003Cem\u003Emana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (energy) of past generations. For Mele Kahalepuna Chun, a third-generation featherwork artist, of Oahu, exploring this sacred Hawaiian art started at the age of five, when her \u003Cem\u003Etutu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grandmother) began sharing the family's featherwork legacy.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"To me, featherwork is what I'm here to do,\" Chun said. \"I felt an obligation to my grandmother to do this and it has been a blessing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0brvtv8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWith their roots in Hawaiian culture dating back to 1,500 years ago, feathered clothing and accessories have long signalled royalty and respect. Feathers became synonymous with power, rank and status in Hawaii. In fact, leis, cloaks, capes, helmets and \u003Cem\u003Ekahili\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a long pole decorated with feathers on one end) could only be worn by the various ranks of Hawaiian \u003Cem\u003Eali'i\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the high chiefs, who were considered to be descended from gods). The longer the cape, the higher the rank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EVarious patterns and colour also signified class and lineage. The famous yellow cape of King Kamehameha, who ruled Hawaii until 1819, was made from the most prestigious feather colour. It took around 450,000 of these rare yellow feathers (taken from the Big Island's now-extinct \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fanimal\u002Fmamo\"\u003Emamo bird\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) to make up the cape. Skilled catchers caught the birds, removed the needed feathers, treated the birds with salve to heal and then released them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0brvv3b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFeatherwork is still time consuming today. There is no hack that has evolved the process. A single feather lei, Chun said, takes approximately 40 hours for one person to complete. For every inch of featherwork, 30 to 40 feathers are needed, which are woven together individually. This is also part of why such an accessory is the ultimate form of gratitude, respect and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ealoha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (love). While a feather lei can cost between $200 and $1,000 and is generally reserved for special occasions, the recipients are touched by the gift of time. Wearing a piece of history is much more than a congratulations, but a reminder of the hands that have kept this piece of culture alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA seamstress first, Chun's grandmother learned the art of featherwork when she was asked to make feather leis in 1955 for contestants of the cultural celebration known as Aloha Week (now called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alohafestivals.com\u002F\"\u003EAloha Festivals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). But even by then, the art of featherwork was declining. \"People would tell my tutu, 'That's a dying art' and she would respond 'No, no, not if I can help it',\" said Chun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EIn the 1970s, during the Hawaiian cultural renaissance when traditions like hula made a resurgence, featherwork was part of the boom. The spike in interest in learning and preserving featherwork had Chun's tutu, Aunty Mary Lou, teaching all over the island, including weekly classes at Honolulu's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bishopmuseum.org\u002Fexhibits-and-programs\u002F\"\u003EBishop Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – now home to the most extensive collection of featherwork alongside other exhibits celebrating Hawaiian culture. By the early 1990s, Aunty Mary Lou had opened her own shop with her daughter Paulette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0brvvfq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EChun took over the family business when her mother, Paulette, died in 2014. Chun knew very little about the business side of featherwork. She said she had to leaf through receipts and chequebooks to help piece together the day-to-day operations. Finding a rhythm came from letting go of the stress that comes from the logistics of running a business and remembering her purpose, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA new chapter began for Chun in February 2021 when she relocated \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffeatherlegacy.com\u002F?fbclid=IwAR0Q8CDLmJKE93CdyhGZSHY17RLI3WqImn85RxnaPitB1snR8dHmkUI8JEY\"\u003ENa Lima Mili Hulu No'eau\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (which translates to \"skilled hands that touch feathers\"), the shop that her grandmother opened 30 years ago. Now situated in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.waikikibeachwalk.com\u002FShops\u002FGifts-Art-Specialty-And-Services\u002FThe-Royal-Room.htm\"\u003ERoyal Room\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the Waikiki Beachwalk, a shared space that includes an interactive exhibit curated by the Hawaii Music Hall of Fame, Chun admitted that leaving behind the physical location that housed her grandmother's legacy brought forth tears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"Closing the store didn't mean we were done; we were just moving in a new direction,\" said Chun. \"I hung the picture of my mother and my grandmother and said, 'Well, here's home, I hope you like it, I hope you like what we do with it.' Now I feel the same sense of comfort and love and home that I felt in my grandmother's shop. Others tell me the same when they visit.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0brvvkx"],"imageAlignment":"right","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWhen she's not working on commissioned pieces, Chun teaches. Her students are a diverse group of learners, from local school children who need to do a hands-on project for their Hawaiian studies programme to a group in Los Angeles who have proven the impossible: that featherwork can be taught over Zoom.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EExpanding the Zoom reach even further, Chun will soon begin instructing a hula school in Japan with a translator, helping the students make feather leis for a competition later this year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"Working on feathers is my happy place,\" said Chun. \"My favourite part is teaching and sharing and watching people learn. That's the most fulfilling part for me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EChun will continue this legacy until she cannot and then her own daughter, whose passion is theatre, plans to carry on the family tradition of preserving Hawaiian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0brvvpz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EUntil then, there's just one more piece Chun promised her mother she would see through, which is to publish a book about making feather kahili. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmutualpublishing.com\u002Fproduct\u002Ffeather-lei-making-as-an-art\u002F\"\u003EFeather Lei as an Art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was published by her mother and grandmother and focused solely on leis. The illustrated manual is on the verge of making another print run thanks to the rallying of friends and students. With Chun continuing where her mother and grandmother left off, she is fulfilling another piece of family history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-04T10:24:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Hawaii's ultimate form of gratitude","headlineShort":"Hawaii's ultimate form of gratitude","image":["p0brvsgc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"21.4389","longitude":"-158.000","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"They're not as well-known as flower leis – but feather leis are part of a Hawaiian tradition dating back 250 years, one that a local family is working hard to bring back.","summaryShort":"These aren't the leis you've seen before","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-03T21:29:41.436117Z","entity":"article","guid":"e6fe455e-64c5-4289-bc79-c8f2d3e88775","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T21:32:41.850097Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220303-hawaiis-ultimate-form-of-gratitude","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fhawaii","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_hawaii_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484344},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","_id":"621e445945ceed6b817ceb95","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Above water, Turtle Island is a popular and idyllic tourist attraction. But it's what's underwater that is fascinating scientists.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe smell hit me first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe acrid punch of rotten eggs was olfactory evidence that below our boat was a forest of undersea vents tirelessly ejecting sulphurous volcanic gases, like supercharged marine hot springs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stench was all the more surprising considering how idyllic our setting was: a forest-covered volcanic island lay in the near distance, while between us and the jagged coastline, a gorgeous spill of turquoise water contrasted sharply with the moody blue of the rest of the ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was about 12km off Taiwan's north-eastern coast, circumnavigating Turtle Island (Guishan Dao in Chinese), one of Taiwan's only two active volcanos that is about 7,000 years old. That's pretty young in island years. It is a popular tourist attraction, famed for its turtle-shaped silhouette, photogenic cliffs, military tunnels and offshore dolphin watching.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it's this patch of paler water on the island's eastern side, where the turtle's head tilts upwards out of the sea, that has got both scientists and Instagrammers equally excited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENicknamed the Milky Sea, it is both a beauty and a beast. The alluring hue attracts photographers, but under the surface the water is hot and acidic, its pH value one of the lowest naturally occurring in the world's oceans –  something not yet fully understood by scientists. Dozens of hydrothermal vents, like small chimneys, called fumaroles, litter the ocean floor, pumping out toxic gases and heavy metals. Turtle Island's vents are like a natural laboratory because not only are they close to shore, they are also shallow, many lying less than 14m below the surface, making them accessible sites for study by marine scientists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Turtle Island in Taiwan with milky blue water showing location of hot springs","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The underwater landscape looks like it's from another world,\" explained Dr Mario Lebrato, who made dozens of dives here as part of a 10-year time series study (2009 to 2018) led by the Institute of Geosciences at the University of Kiel in Germany in collaboration with Taiwanese and Chinese researchers. \"There are heavy metals, it is acidic, and you mostly see a lot of bubbles mixed with a lot of noise… and there are continuous temperature changes.\" Water comes out of the vents at about 100C but cools quickly when it mixes with the surrounding seawater. \"It's quite stressful, particularly because the noise from the fumaroles can be deafening,\" he added. \"You feel in danger most of the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fcan-science-and-tourism-save-the-reef\u002F\"\u003ECan science and tourism save the reef?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe animal resistant to cancer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210324-the-odd-sea-creature-powered-by-the-sun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's odd solar-powered sea creature\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch a hostile environment is believed to be similar to the conditions when life first emerged on Earth; and studying the animals that have evolved to survive in the Milky Sea may thus teach us something about the earliest lifeforms 3.5 billion years ago. \"We will not necessarily find anything to explain the origins of life, but likely how life evolved in the first few millions of years under such extreme conditions, probably resembling a place like Turtle Island,\" explained Lebrato. The kinds of things we should be looking for, he added, are what sorts of species are able to survive here, how they are able to do so, and how low diversity is.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, what lives down here?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDirectly next to the vents, not much. Only a very specialised crab called Xenograpsus testudinatus (a particular type of vent crab) is able to survive, according to Dr Yiming Wang, who joined the study as an expert on food webs. \"No other metazoan [multi-cellular animal] life can be found in the immediate vicinity of the [active] vents due to the toxicity of the sulphur fluid plumes,\" she explained. These crabs have evolved to survive by feeding off animals such as zooplankton and fish that are unfortunate enough to drift close to the vents and perish, as well as detritus and layers of micro-organisms that coat the seabed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Xenograpsus testudinatus vent crab at Turtle Island, Taiwan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F5863375\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThey may also have \"acquired an amazing ability to utilise the sulphur bacteria [bacteria that use sulphur for energy] as a food source,\" Dr Wang added. Research in this area is so new – this species of crab was only \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F5863375\"\u003Ediscovered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2000 – that how these crabs are able to withstand such a toxic environment is still a mystery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAway from the vents though, it's a different matter entirely. Sea anemones, snails, molluscs and a rainbow of corals flourish in the vicinity. And outside the Milky Sea zone, the waters around Turtle Island are some of Taiwan's richest fishing grounds, teeming with marine life carried by the warm Kuroshio Current that flows northwards to Japan. Testament to this bounty is the prevalence of top predators – schools of dolphins. They are the main attraction of trips to the island, and indeed as my tour left the Milky Sea and coasted east, an enormous pod of spinner dolphins appeared; their grey-streaked bodies twisting, torpedoing and somersaulting around the bow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's another more pressing reason to study the animals that live around Turtle Island's hydrothermal vents: they can give us clues as to how marine ecosystems may cope with drastic changes, the kinds predicted to occur from climate change such as ocean acidification, or from major pollution events such as the dumping of mine tailings (crushed rocks and other waste products from mining that can be very toxic). Turtle Island allows us to \"study how marine life survives in extreme environments, which is very relevant to understanding the ocean's future,\" Lebrato said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter half of their longform study, something happened that would change the whole course of their research. In 2016, Taiwan was rattled by a 5.8 magnitude earthquake, while just weeks later, it was hammered by Nepartak, a Category 5 typhoon. These twin assaults triggered landslides on Turtle Island, with the rubble stoppering many of the vents. After the ocean hot springs were effectively blocked off, the seawater's chemical composition and pH drastically changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmazingly, the vent ecosystem coped remarkably well; there was no major species die off, as their 2019 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-019-53314-y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E explained. \"Marine life has a great capacity to adjust to extreme changes,\" said Lebrato. \"Our major finding was that no matter how big the disturbance, life… and the system overall managed to recover after two years to its previous state. This speaks to the resilience of marine systems despite extreme events.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Dr Mario Lebrato diving at Turtle Island, Taiwan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biorxiv.org\u002Fcontent\u002F10.1101\u002F2020.09.09.288985v1.full\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHowever, not all species were equally resilient. Crab numbers declined whereas snails and molluscs appeared to be unaffected. Specialist species, like the vent crab that scientists believe may need to supplement their diets with sulphur bacteria for nutrition, are more vulnerable than generalist species that are less fussy about their food sources, explained Wang, now the lead author of a new study on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biorxiv.org\u002Fcontent\u002F10.1101\u002F2020.09.09.288985v1.full\"\u003Ehow the typhoon and quake impacted foraging strategies for the vent species\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Her research has found that although the vent ecosystem survived the quake-typhoon disaster, the more flexible species ended up coping much better, so there will always be some winners and some losers following catastrophic events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost tourists who come here never hear about the fascinating struggle for life going on under the sea. Instead, they delight in the dolphins and take pictures of the surprising blue of the Milky Sea or the caramel-and-grey striped cliffs. Taiwan closed off the island in the 1970s for 23 years during martial law, building tunnels, watch towers and lookout points that remain to this day, and day-trippers (overnight stays are forbidden to protect the island's delicate ecosystem) come to scramble around the military installations, tour the abandoned fishing village and enjoy the forest walks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs my boat headed back to the mainland, a curtain of rain descended and the outline of Turtle Island began to merge into the mist until it too disappeared along with the secrets of life hidden beneath the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-16T23:31:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Taiwan's acidic underwater hot springs","headlineShort":"The acidic underwater world that kills","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Milky blue water around Turtle Island, Taiwan","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.8424","longitude":"121.9502","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Milky blue water around Turtle Island, Taiwan","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Above water, Turtle Island is a popular and idyllic tourist attraction. But it's what's underwater that is fascinating scientists.","summaryShort":"There's a fascinating struggle for life going on under the sea","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-15T23:31:52.810989Z","entity":"article","guid":"c7fac798-3190-4184-b893-9281586f0971","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:20.320595Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital","_id":"621e445245ceed6b817ceb89","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Vets in Dunedin, New Zealand, are making strides in helping endangered penguins. Determined, yet bitten and flipper bashed, they're treating these patients one bird at a time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09fbkvn.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I get to work here on the beautiful Otago Peninsula helping to save the yellow-eyed penguin, a very endangered bird here in New Zealand, and save it for our future generations\" \u003Cem\u003E– Jason van Zanten, conservation manager\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESometimes, saving a species means treating one animal at a time. The veterinarians at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildlifehospitaldunedin.org.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Wildlife Hospital, Dunedin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E do just that, going small to go big by caring exclusively for native animals. Headquartered close to the wildlife-rich Otago Peninsula on New Zealand's South Island, the hospital is ideally placed to help where it's most needed. And with extinction threatening up to 80% of native wildlife, from kākāpō birds to sea lions, every mended bone and tended orphan could be the difference between a species thriving or dying out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's high-stakes work, but you wouldn't know it from watching the hospital's best-known patients waddle around between feedings. The yellow-eyed penguin, called \u003Cem\u003Ehoiho\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (noise shouter) in Maori, is the largest of the penguin species that live and breed on New Zealand's mainland. But in recent decades, plummeting numbers have landed the birds on the country’s nationally endangered list, making this yellow-eyed seabird one of the rarest penguins in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHoiho are among the world's most endangered penguin species, with just an estimated 4,000 to 5,000 adults left in the wild, and they arrive at the hospital for a variety of reasons including starvation, injury and disease. But each animal has a better chance at survival than ever before, thanks to the combined efforts of The Wildlife Hospital and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpenguinplace.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPenguin Place\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a nearby recovery home that has been helping the hoiho since the 1990s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210324-the-odd-sea-creature-powered-by-the-sun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe odd sea creature powered by the sun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's charismatic glider marsupial\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient way to save the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore the hospital's opening in 2018, sick or injured endangered species had to first survive stressful transport to the North Island for treatment. With the ability to treat these animals locally comes a higher success rate that directly supports rare and endangered South Island animal populations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe hospital's staff is devoted to the penguins yet harbour no illusions about their feathered patients. “They want to bite you, they want to flipper bash you, they poop all over you, but we love them,” said hospital founder Dr Lisa Argilla, showing scars from 13 years of treating yellow-eyed penguins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe penguins' road to recovery doesn't end at the hospital. Animals on the mend continue their convalescence at Penguin Place, where they rehabilitate and put on weight before their release.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout 95% of the birds brought to the facility survive to be released back into the wild. Compare that high percentage to the small number of breeding pairs – just 265 on the South Island, according to a 2019 estimate – and the impact becomes clear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"If Penguin Place wasn't here, I could almost guarantee that the population would be functionally extinct,\" said Jason van Zanten, conservation manager at Penguin Place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike the endangered species it cares for, however, the fate of Penguin Place teeters on the brink. The facility is entirely funded by the guided tours it gives to visitors, so the pandemic has hit Penguin Place particularly hard. The centre is mere months away from running out of the funding it needs to feed and care for its penguin patients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EConservation efforts have long intertwined with tourism in New Zealand. For decades, people have flocked to the Otago Peninsula’s wild coastlines, towering headlands and sheltered bays, hoping to glimpse resident sea lions, seals and penguins. And though the international visitors – and the tourism dollars that support preservation programmes – have not yet returned, the people who look after these wild animals remain. Determined, bitten and flipper bashed, they care for these endangered animals, one bird at a time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video by Sharron Ward and BBC's The Travel Show; text by Christine Sarkis)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital-7"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-23T11:22:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"New Zealand's endangered penguin hospital","headlineShort":"New Zealand's feisty, feathered patient","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-45.8825839","longitude":"170.3253558","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Vets in Dunedin, New Zealand, are making strides in helping endangered penguins. Determined, yet bitten and flipper bashed, they're treating these patients one bird at a time.","summaryShort":"\"They want to bite you, they want to flipper bash you, but we love them\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:05:04.908799Z","entity":"article","guid":"78b2f192-15fa-4073-b017-4d310c25e83d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:26:19.868059Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484346},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","_id":"621e445545ceed6b661ba9be","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once a neglected wasteland, this paradisiacal eco-reserve stands as a reminder of what the Seychelles were like before tourism arrived.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost people who buy their very own tropical island do so in the pursuit of luxury. Brendon Grimshaw was different. So, too, was Moyenne, the island in the Seychelles that Grimshaw bought. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw first came to the Seychelles – an archipelago of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean, only eight of which are permanently inhabited – on holiday in 1962. At the time, he was an editor working for some of the biggest newspapers in East Africa. It was an exciting time in Africa and, as part of his job, he rubbed shoulders with Tanzania's charismatic new leader and future president, Julius Nyerere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Grimshaw was looking for something more than a holiday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETanzania had declared independence the year before; Kenya would follow a year later; and Grimshaw, an Englishman, understood that jobs such as his would soon pass to locals. Knowing that he would soon be unemployed, Grimshaw searched for a new direction in life, one that took him closer to nature. He dreamed about owning land in the Seychelles – ideally, he'd buy his own island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn his first few weeks in the Seychelles, Grimshaw began to wonder whether he needed a change of plan: there weren't many islands on the market, and those that were had eye-watering price tags. On the second-to-last day of his holiday, a young man approached him in the Seychelles' capital, Victoria, and asked Grimshaw if he wanted to buy an island. Just like that. They travelled together to Moyenne, a 0.099sq km dot 4.5km off the north coast of the Seychelles' largest island, Mahé. Grimshaw fell in love immediately with its silence and its wild tangle of vegetation. It was, he would later say, close enough to be accessible from the Seychelles' main island, and yet a world away. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was totally different. It was a special feeling,\" he told a documentary film crew in 2009. \"This is the place I'd been looking for.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt four minutes to midnight on the last day of his Seychelles holiday, Grimshaw signed an agreement to pay £8,000 for Moyenne. The island was his. But buying Moyenne would prove an easier task than taking care of it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESave for a family of fisherfolk who lived on the island, Moyenne had been abandoned for decades. With tourism starting to take off in the Seychelles, it seemed only a matter of time before someone cleared the land to build a five-star resort.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMoyenne is one of the smallest of the Seychelles' inner islands: it measures just 0.4km long and barely 0.3km wide, and its coastline runs for less than 2km. Its highest point rises to an altitude of just 61m above the water's edge. Moyenne possesses the same paradisical white sand and granite boulders that characterise so many Seychelles shorelines, but it's also home to a dense, unbroken wall of trees that cover the island, forming a low pyramid above the water's edge. It's a riot of green against cobalt skies and a sapphire sea, like a tiny rainforest erupting from the ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Moyenne's diminutive size, restoring the island's natural beauty was a massive task. A combination of neglect and heavy-handed human intervention had left Moyenne dishevelled and gasping for air. Weeds choked the understorey, and the island was so overgrown that, it was said, falling coconuts never hit the ground. In the tangle of weeds, birds were noticeably absent and rats foraged in the undergrowth. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211209-the-hermit-of-socotra-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe hermit of Socotra Island\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160304-the-worlds-smallest-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's smallest kingdom\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20161128-the-real-life-garden-of-eden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real-life garden of Eden?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy Grimshaw's side was a local named Rene Antoine Lafortune, the 19-year-old son of a local fisherman. The two became inseparable, and together they set about transforming the island, clearing the scrub, planting trees and forging paths through the undergrowth. It was painstaking, back-breaking work – and it became Grimshaw's life-long obsession. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw's initial goal was to protect Moyenne from overdevelopment. At first, this meant uncovering the island's raw beauty and building a humble island home where he could live out his days. But his longer-term dream was to create a natural paradise that would outlive him and remain protected long after he was gone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"His vision was to leave an unspoiled island for future generations of Seychellois and the world,\" said Suketu Patel, who first met Grimshaw in 1976 and became a lifelong friend. \"He wanted a mini-Seychelles. He wanted to try and replicate what Seychelles and its islands were like before tourists came.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't all hard work, though. While taming the overgrown north-western corner of Moyenne, Grimshaw found two graves. Their tombstones read, \"Unhappily Unknown\". Grimshaw became convinced that pirates from centuries past were buried here; one of the beaches on the island's north side is known as Pirate's Cove. The graves belonged to a pair of lowly buccaneers, so the story went, who were killed by two famous pirate leaders so that the dead men's spirits would haunt the island and protect the treasure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether Grimshaw really believed the legends is unknown. \"For him it was fun to get up in the morning, ask, 'What will I do today? Let's go look for treasure',\" remembered Patel. Today, there are two sites marked on maps of Moyenne with a skull-and-crossbones symbol, where Grimshaw and Lafortune tried their luck looking for, but never finding, the pirates' hidden treasure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs tourism in the Seychelles grew in the 1980s and the archipelago became synonymous with a tropical island paradise, investors turned their covetous gaze towards Moyenne. Grimshaw received offers of up to $50m to sell the island. He resisted every overture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Grimshaw grew older, he became increasingly aware that he had limited time left to protect the island's future. He had no children to whom he could pass on custodianship of the island, and when Lafortune passed away in 2007, Grimshaw decided to act. With Patel and others, he set up a perpetual trust to protect the island and signed an 2009 agreement with the Seychelles' Ministry of Environment that included Moyenne as part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fmarine-parks\u002Fst-anne\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESte Anne Marine Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but granted it its own special status. With that, Moyenne Island National Park, the world's smallest national park, was born. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can be easy to imagine Grimshaw as an eccentric figure. After all, he moved alone to the other side of the world, bought an island, believed in pirates and spent a lifetime restoring a seemingly inconsequential speck of land. But many Seychellois remain grateful for what he bequeathed to his adopted nation. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Personally, I don't think he was crazy,\" said Isabelle Ravinia from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeychelles National Parks Authority\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"He gave the island back to the country, which was a noble thing to do. Normally people would try to sell off the island before they die so they can obtain money to do something else. Instead, he did something incredible.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw died in 2012 and his grave sits alongside that of his father (who later came to live with Grimshaw) and the two unknown pirates. At his request, Grimshaw's tombstone reads, \"Moyenne taught him to open his eyes to the beauty around him and say thank you to God.\" In his last will and testament, he expressed his final wishes: \"Moyenne Island is to be maintained as a venue for prayer, peace, tranquillity, relaxation and knowledge for Seychellois and visitors from overseas of all nationalities, colours and creeds.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe task of fulfilling Grimshaw's wishes now lies in the hands of the Moyenne Island Foundation, which is overseen by Patel. Apart from a restaurant – the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FJolly-Roger-Bar-Restaurant-1138105859556672\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJolly Roger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – that serves local dishes like grilled fish and seafood curries in a red Creole sauce, a small museum dedicated to Grimshaw's life and two nurseries for giant tortoise hatchlings, Moyenne remains undeveloped. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from hiring your own boat, the best way to explore Moyenne is on a half- or full-day tour with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.creoletravelservices.com\u002Factivity\u002Fstarfish\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECreole Travel Services\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmasonstravel.com\u002Fpackages\u002Freef-safari\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMason's Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which also take in the other islands of the Ste Anne Park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to visit Moyenne","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe island has no jetty and arriving here carries a special kind of magic: nowhere else in the Seychelles can match Moyenne's sense of deserted-island discovery as you wade ashore, barefoot, through the shallows. As you reach dry land and take your first steps along the gently climbing forest trail, the trees close in behind you and you enter another world. Dappled sunlight filters down through the canopy to the forest floor, the temperature is cooler, and the island's 16,000 trees – mahogany, palm, mango, pawpaw – planted by Grimshaw and Lafortune surround you. By \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Fplaces\u002Fmoyenne-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone estimate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Moyenne has more plant species per sq m than any other national park in the world. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery now and then, you may find your path blocked by one of Moyenne's nearly 50 free-range giant Aldabra tortoises. They're in no hurry, and nor should you be as you watch them pass. Back in the shallows and by the beaches at Pirate’s Cove, watch for hawksbill turtles that often come ashore to nest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven during peak tourist season, there are rarely more than 50 visitors on the island at any one time, and never more than 300 over the course of a day. Six islands make up the Ste Anne Marine Park, but Moyenne is the only one, aside from tiny Ile Cachee, with no hotel development or other forms of private land ownership. And thanks to Grimshaw and his friends, Moyenne is likely to stay this way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's something that grabs you when you go there,\" said Patel. \"If you think you have a big problem, when you're on the island you realise that it's not a problem after all. Moyenne is what life should be like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-20T14:22:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Moyenne Island: The world's smallest national park","headlineShort":"The world's smallest national park","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-4.61667","longitude":"55.5088","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once a neglected wasteland, this paradisiacal eco-reserve stands as a reminder of what the Seychelles were like before tourism arrived.","summaryShort":"It's home to 16,000 trees, 50 free-range tortoises and no people","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-19T14:23:34.319834Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f0d8256-c487-4b94-8fe0-6a49538ed911","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:31.37517Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484346},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","_id":"621e445945ceed70956aba25","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the pandemic, the United Arab Emirates has been one of the most resilient in the face of changing Covid variants, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fourworldindata.org\u002Fcovid-vaccinations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's highest vaccination rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and extensive, affordable testing. In fact, the UAE is currently ranked number one in Bloomberg's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fgraphics\u002Fcovid-resilience-ranking\u002F?sref=d39KtWbu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovid Resilience ranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 53 countries on 12 indicators like healthcare quality, virus mortality and reopening travel. Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to the pandemic, its most populous city, Dubai, has also transformed itself from a global tourism hub into one more invested in its own community. \"We all had to work together to protect each other,\" said Kathy Johnston, chief chocolate officer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmirzam.com\u002F\"\u003EMirzam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chocolate company, who has lived in the city for more than 30 years. \"People are supporting more local concepts and projects with authenticity behind them. Things are moving a little slower and more considerately. Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the weather is perfect right now, say residents. \"October to May is the best time of year to visit because it's not excruciatingly hot anymore,\" said Dubai resident Tala Mohamad. That also has meant the return of outdoor events and activities and leisurely evenings spent on the city's numerous patio and rooftop seaside lounges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is also hosting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpo 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until the end of March 2022, a global six-month event featuring pavilions from all over the world, showcasing unique innovations and futuristic projects. \"Don't miss [the] Expo. Just don't,\" said Johnston. \"Give yourself a whole week. Wait three hours in line for Japanese sushi and enjoy the date pudding with dukkah at [on-site restaurant] \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Fwhere-to-eat\u002Fbaron\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and dream under the stars at the Australian pavilion.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDubai has worked diligently over the past decade to become more sustainable, with major investments in solar energy, water conservation and green building and infrastructure. Expo 2020 is also hosting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Funderstanding-expo\u002Fsustainability-district\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESustainability Pavilion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, showcasing projects like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002F20200121-sustainability-pavilion-canopy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolar trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that provide shade while creating energy and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thenationalnews.com\u002Fuae\u002Fexpo-2020\u002F2021\u002F09\u002F14\u002Fdutch-pavilions-vertical-farm-produces-first-vegetables-at-expo-2020-dubai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehuge vertical farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E growing 9,000 plants and herbs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar trees at the Sustainability Pavilion Expo 2020 Dubai","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe pandemic unexpectedly created a boom in chefs engaging with local ingredients and talent, said Johnston, with a handful of new spaces opening up in the past two years. Some of her favourites include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\"\u003EOrfali Bro's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its Arabic inspirations; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftresindstudio.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETresind Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its upscale dinner and breakfast; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebarn.de\u002Fpages\u002Fthe-barn-dubai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Barn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E speciality coffee bar and next-door \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fhapi.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHAPI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for their sweet potato pancakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a unique take mixing Japanese inspiration with local produce, Mohamad recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moon-rise.xyz\u002Fpages\u002Fabout\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoonrise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the rooftop of Eden House and its \u003Cem\u003Eomakase\u003C\u002Fem\u003E menu. \"For example, one dish is \u003Cem\u003Echutoro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Spain with honey from Ras Al Khaimah [the emirate 100km north-east of Dubai],\" she said. With just eight seats, it's usually fully booked so reserve in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResident Vibha Dhawan, a travel advisor with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ovationtravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOvation Travel Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboca.ae\u002F\"\u003EBoca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which uses local ingredients like salmon from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fishfarm.ae\u002F\"\u003EUAE's Fish Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and milk from local camel dairies; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fthesumofusdubai\u002F\"\u003EThe Sum of Us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cafes in Dubai to become eco-friendly by using avocado seed straws and offering 10% off to customers who bring a reusable takeaway cup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a more in-depth look at the city's sustainability initiatives, Dhawan recommends checking out the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.emiratesbiofarm.com\u002F\"\u003EEmirates Bio Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest private organic farm in the country. \"Book a group tour and sunset session,\" she said. \"This gives you an in-depth visit around the acres of land followed by the chance to harvest your own vegetables. They also offer pop-up dining experiences throughout the year.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the natural desert of the region, she recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fdxbam-al-maha-a-luxury-collection-desert-resort-and-spa-dubai\u002F\"\u003EAl Maha resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Located within \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20110321-dubais-first-national-park\"\u003EDubai's first national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the five-star resort is dedicated to preserving the unique ecology of the desert, including the endangered Arabian oryx. A herd of 300, the largest in Arabia, now roams freely after decades of conservation efforts. On-site field guides give guided wildlife tours on foot, 4X4, camel and horseback.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A farmworker harvests peppers at Emirates Bio Farm in Al Ain, United Arab Emirates","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an experience in the heart of the city, the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.25hours-hotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotels\u002Fdubai\u002Fone-central\"\u003E25hours One Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotel, which opened in December 2021, celebrates the country's traditions by immersing visitors in theme of \u003Cem\u003Ehakawati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Arabic for storytelling. The experience starts in the lobby with the circular \"Fountain of Tales\" library with more than 5,000 books, topped with rotating art from local artists, and continues throughout the hotel with Bedouin-inspired art and décor, a tribute to both ancient and modern nomads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Omicron variant has travel restrictions changing rapidly, so check the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003EUAE Travel to Dubai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E page for the latest notices and requirements. Currently, travel is open to vaccinated tourists with a WHO-approved vaccine, though visitors must undergo a rapid test on arrival. Unvaccinated travellers must provide a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. Travel is currently suspended for those coming from or transiting through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003Ecertain African countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must download the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Fsmart-solutions-to-fight-covid-19\u002Fthe-alhosn-uae-app\"\u003EAl Hosn app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the UAE's official contact tracing and health status app, which uses a colour-coded system (grey, red, green) to reflect test results and vaccination status. The Dubai Health Authority offers the DXB Smart app, available for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=ae.gov.dha.covid19\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fapp\u002Fcovid19-dxb-smart-app\u002Fid1504818399\"\u003EiOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gives visitors real-time information about UAE's current Covid rates, tracks test results and exposures, and is used to show vaccination status within the emirate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-06T22:06:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why is this country so resilient?","headlineShort":"Why is this country so resilient?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"25.2048","longitude":"55.2708","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","summaryShort":"It has managed to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-05T22:07:18.553104Z","entity":"article","guid":"06ce894b-75d2-462a-8da6-da95220ccf11","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:42.558997Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484346},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","_id":"621e444445ceed604f5b119b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"New storytelling groups are reintroducing the Irish to ancient myths and the art of blarney.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI always knew my Uncle Peter was setting up for a story when he’d lean back in his bar stool. Nothing dramatic, nothing too flashy, just a gentle recline – always followed by a more determined pushing away of his half-drunk pint of Harp and a wipe of the whiskers. Stage set, audience warned, he’d begin by saying “C’mere ‘till I tell you.” By the time that pint of Harp was drained, half the pub would be leaning in to listen and laugh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe stories he told were the everyday made interesting. They were anecdotes about the butcher or the bus driver, or a screaming match at the end of the street. Every story was true, but embellished each time it was told; embroidered to make the story more entertaining. It’s a way of telling stories that is very Irish. You probably know it better as blarney.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJack Lynch prefers to call them “tall tales”. As the Chair of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.storytellersofireland.org\u002F\"\u003EAos Scéal Éireann\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or Storytellers of Ireland, Lynch is the man charged with getting the Irish talking again. Incredibly, it seems that we had stopped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Many Irish people would have memories such as yours, listening to stories in pubs or living rooms told by aunts and uncles or friends,” Lynch said. But they are just that – memories. “Storytelling is seen as an experience from the past.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIn the shadow of the seanchaí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E The story of Irish storytelling’s decline is very much the story of the seanchaí.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seanchaíwere Ireland’s original storytellers, travelling from village to village to tell tales. Lynch described them as “reporters, entertainers and historians” rolled into one\u003Cem\u003E.  \u003C\u002Fem\u003EWhile specialising in the swashbuckling myths of Cú Chulainn or Fionn mac Cumhaill, they also recorded and passed on local history, and – crucially for Ireland’s rural communities – were a link to local goings on. It was the seanchaí’s skill in making the everyday interesting that brought the Irish to blarney.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EListening to the seanchaí was an oral tradition that stretched back to the times of Gaelic chieftains. But by the 1950s, it was starting to disappear. “Ultimately, radio and then television displaced the storyteller,” Lynch said. “There just wasn’t the audience for them anymore.” Today, with everything from the local news to the latest Scandinavian thriller available at the press of a button on your phone, the seanchaí’s 1,000-year story looks set to come to a close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe top of the tale\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EYet here I was with Lynch. We were in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thirdspace.ie\u002F\"\u003EThe Third Space cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dublin’s increasingly smart Smithfield district, and he was about to tell the crowd a few stories. Only they didn’t seem to know it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was only a single flyer advertising \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmilkandcookiestories\"\u003Ethe storytelling event\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the crowd looked more interested in their muffins and Macbooks. For a man who has been telling tales for 15 years, Lynch was surprisingly nervy. I was too. He had no microphone, no notes – and to my mind, no hope of grabbing the crowd’s attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter some debate about shifting the chairs to make more of a stage, Lynch strode into the middle of the cafe and launched into a welcome. He told a traditional Irish folk tale, his eyes pinched closed as he swayed and paced while speaking. There was a comforting rhythm to the story – stretches that required concentration but also funny asides. If the initial quiet from the crowd was borne of politeness, by the time the story swung to a halt there were two-dozen heads craning in to listen and seats being shuffled to get a better view. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore storytellers followed. There were heroic myths and fighting faeries, but also local history. Seosamh Ó Maolalaí’s account of the 5th Battalion North Dublin volunteers and their part in the 1916 Easter Uprising was especially poignant. Told just days before the 100th anniversary of the rebellion that put Ireland on a painful path to independence, heads bowed and hands clasped during this story of Irishmen fighting Irishmen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfterwards I asked Lynch if events like this are a sign of a revival in Irish storytelling. He grinned. “It’s not a revival,” he said, “because storytelling in Ireland was never quite dead. But interest is growing again.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENew style, same story\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E And interest is growing fast. The Third Space event is just one of several regular storytelling events and clubs that have sprung up in the last couple of years. And, ironically, it’s the same flick-of-a button technology that endangered the seanchaí that looks set to save Irish storytelling all together.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Galwa,y I met up with Órla McGovern who set up \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmothandbutterflystories\"\u003EMoth and Butterfly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2012. The group has grown from a handful of friends sharing stories to a monthly event that attracts close to 100 people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many of the new Irish storytelling groups, Moth and Butterfly is part inspired by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthemoth.org\u002F\"\u003Ethe Moth storytelling groups\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the United States, where participants must tell true personal stories in less than five minutes.  But, while personal stories are encouraged here, all stories are welcome. McGovern also admitted that you’d struggle to get an Irish person to finish telling you their name in five minutes, so the time limit has been doubled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe group meets at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ardbia.com\u002F\"\u003EArd Bia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a modern Irish restaurant set in a traditional stone cottage on the banks of Galway’s River Corrib. The night I visited, it was a full house with people perched on mismatched furniture and rescued church pews.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are a backbone of regular performers who run the Moth and Butterfly, but this is also an event where members of the audience can join in. “It’s actually nicer when someone from the audience gets up to tell a story,” McGovern insisted. “It might be less polished, but it’s often more meaningful.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo of the regular performers told an improvised story in both Gaelic and English. The first teller gave a little of the story in Gaelic, before the second teller translated and added a little more. It was purposefully chaotic, and by the time we finished the tale of a pig drinking \u003Cem\u003Epoitín\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the Irish equivalent of moonshine) the crowd was in riotous laughter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked McGovern why she thinks storytelling is making a comeback, she gave a quick nod to our phones on the table in front of us. “It’s a need for connection,” she said. “Yes, technology has made us increasingly connected to the world, but also less connected to each other. I think storytelling nurtures connections with people in real life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI could see what she meant. I’d expected college students and highbrow culture braggarts – and they were here – but there were also office workers, pensionable couples and at least two quintessential Irish gentlemen in sports jackets and brogues. Few events could attract such an egalitarian crowd.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI’m not sure what my Uncle Peter would make of telling stories over freshly baked muffins, and I can’t print what he would say about stories that have to be told within a certain time. But while Irish storytelling may have changed, he would still recognise the myths and laugh-out-loud anecdotes. He’d certainly be glad the Irish are talking again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-05-23T18:31:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How the Irish lost their words","headlineShort":"How the Irish lost their words","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"New storytelling groups are reintroducing the Irish to ancient myths and the art of blarney.","summaryShort":"Meet the man who’s charged with getting Ireland talking again","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:40:53.348857Z","entity":"article","guid":"63254510-5019-4180-aa9d-50df87ea96ad","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:45:02.539847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484346},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","_id":"621e8f8d45ceed42b01ae561","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"After some of the longest Covid-19 restrictions in Europe, Ireland is looking to 2022 and beyond with optimism.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter 20 months of Covid-19 restrictions, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002F2022\u002Fjan\u002F21\u002Fireland-announces-plans-to-lift-most-covid-restrictions\"\u003Eone of the longest stretches in Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Ireland \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-60078125\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecently lifted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E its 20:00 curfew on restaurants, bars, and indoor events and removed limits on the number of people gathered. As a result, residents are heralding the return of the \u003Cem\u003Ecraic\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the atmosphere of fun and conversation that permeates the Irish social scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Spring is in the air, figuratively and literally,\" said Dublin resident Ray Commins, founder of walking tour company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.generationtours.com\u002Fdublin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeneration Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"There's a real sense of optimism as we emerge from a winter (two in fact) of discontent. I don't think there's been a spring or summer we've looked forward to more in my time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowhere is that more evident than in the classic Irish pubs, where socialising and singing have finally returned – a culture no longer taken for granted by the locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We missed it dearly as a society here, and having it back is an incredible boost to morale,\" said Commins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kz8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People outside a traditional Irish bar in Dublin","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestival.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDublin, Ireland's capital, is rapidly preparing for its first \"proper\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestival.ie\u002F\"\u003ESt Patrick's Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2019, a four-day celebration from 16 to 20 March, featuring music, the iconic parade, theatre and a food and craft village. Though the capital hosts the largest celebration, many Irish cities, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.corkcity.ie\u002Fen\u002Fcork-st-patricks-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECork\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.galwaytourism.ie\u002Fevent\u002Fst-patricks-day-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGalway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestivalkilkenny.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKilkenny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, each host their own parade in honour of the country's patron saint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hospitality industry in Ireland expects international travellers to return in droves this summer, so spring and autumn may be the best time to beat the global crowds. Among locals, the vaccination programme has been one of the most successful across Europe, with more than 95% of adults vaccinated and 72% receiving a booster, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvaccinetracker.ecdc.europa.eu\u002Fpublic\u002Fextensions\u002FCOVID-19\u002Fvaccine-tracker.html#national-ref-tab\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EECDC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe country has seen a number of new hotel openings and re-openings, all of which have taken sustainability seriously. In County Tipperary, 200km south-west of Dublin, the five-star \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cashelpalacehotel.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECashel Palace Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is set to open in March 2022. The hotel composts all its food waste to later be used in its on-site gardens, and sources as much food as possible from producers all within the county's borders, many of which are part of the national food sustainability program \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.origingreen.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrigin Green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the Irish lost their words\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is this country so resilient?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIreland's loneliest wilderness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wrenhotel.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Wren Urban Nest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dublin opened in September and aims to be one of Ireland's most sustainable hotels, eschewing the use of any fossil fuels. \"They use 100% renewable energy, avoid single-use plastics and source locally as much as possible,\" said Kate McCabe, co-founder of eco travel company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bogandthunder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBog & Thunder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's really easy to see their commitment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven historical sites like 18th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ballynahinch-castle.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBallynahinch Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Co Galway has embraced its connection and responsibility to the land. The estate has worked to remove invasive plant species and developed a biodiversity plan for the grounds that helps protect the salmon that run within the neighbouring Owenmore River.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kyw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People watching St Patricks Day parade in Dublin","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMcCabe has also been excited to see a renewed commitment to local eating here. \"Ireland has really embraced the farm-to-table ethos,\" she said. \"It's quite common for restaurants to list their sources on their menus – a locavore's paradise!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ireland has really embraced the farm-to-table ethos","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faimsir.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESome of her favourite spots include Kildair-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faimsir.ie\u002F\"\u003EAimsir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which serves only food grown, harvested, fished or foraged within the Emerald Isle's borders; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thewicklowescape.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Wicklow Escape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small inn 50km south of Dublin that pairs its garden lodgings with local specialties like wild boar and venison pie and Atlantic cod and scallops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo further connect visitors with the land, McCabe often takes visitors to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cnocsuain.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECnoc Suain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a hillside settlement on the west coast within a Special Area of Conservation in the Connemara region. The founders offer events and education in the cultural heritage of the region as well as its unique bogland ecology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIreland requires either proof of vaccination or proof of recovery from a Covid-19 infection within the past six months. As of 1 February, travellers must also have a booster dose if it has been more than 270 days since the final dose in the initial vaccine series.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kxv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People standing on Giants Causeway against sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EPassengers without proof must submit a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival. For EU residents, Ireland participates in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.covidcertificateportal.gov.ie\u002Fen-US\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEU Digital Covid Certificate Program\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which provides digital documentation on vaccination status and makes it easier to travel between EU member countries. Travellers must also fill out a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftravel.eplf.gov.ie\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPassenger Locator Form\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFace covering requirements were fully lifted across Ireland in February, with the exception of health-care environments. Many local public health experts within the country still recommend the wearing of masks, but their use is voluntary. Visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.citizensinformation.ie\u002Fen\u002Fhealth\u002Fcovid19\u002Fpublic_health_measures_for_covid19.html#l8018d\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECitizens Information Board\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Covid page for the most updated information and requirements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-02T10:25:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why the craic's coming back to Ireland","headlineShort":"The nation returning to the pub","image":["p0br4l0c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.350140","longitude":"-6.266155","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0br4l0c"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"After some of the longest Covid-19 restrictions in Europe, Ireland is looking to 2022 and beyond with optimism.","summaryShort":"\"Spring is in the air, figuratively and literally\"","tag":["tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-01T21:26:19.820413Z","entity":"article","guid":"8ddbab05-c753-4be1-94d6-72e1b49f6fc9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:52:50.75048Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fdublin","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_dublin_europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484346},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","_id":"621e445145ceed67bf379e66","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road from Santa Teresa Gallura to Porto Cervo on Sardinia’s northern coast twists and turns with the painstaking precision I’d imagined goes into the handwoven needlepoint pillows I saw in the airport gift shop earlier that week. With every unforgiving turn, I was silently cursing the bottle of vermentino and swills of mirto – a berry-based liqueur made from the myrtle plant that flourishes in this region – from the night before. Handmade textiles, much like homemade food (and mirto), are a journey into the soul of a place, and I had no set itinerary except to taste the bounty of locally made pasta, pecorino and anything typically Sardo in between.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This pasta is special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I sat down for lunch at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteilpomodoro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIl Pomodoro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Restaurant, a casual outpost in Costa Smeralda known for serving up traditional Sardo fare, I was famished. I ordered the special, a handmade pasta called \u003Cem\u003Elorighittas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in a seafood broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few minutes later appeared a bowl of twisted golden ringlets so perfectly braided I’d swear even Rapunzel would be impressed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This pasta is special,” Agostino Demontis, maître of Pomodoro Restaurant at Cervo Hotel said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe pasta dish Sardinians refuse to share\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170906-the-last-surviving-sea-silk-seamstress\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last surviving sea silk seamstress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story behind lorighittas’ name, derived from the Sardinian word ‘\u003Cem\u003Elorigas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’, which loosely translates into ‘iron ring’ according to Demontis, varies depending on who you ask. Demontis, who’s from Segariu, a town not far from Morgongiori where lorighittas hail from, said the name comes from the iron rings that were once fixed to the walls of local houses to tether horses and oxen when men returned from the fields. However, there’s another meaning. Lorighittas also loosely translates to the Sardinian word for ‘ears’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sometimes lorighittas were prepared by unmarried young women and teenagers who would hang the pasta on their ears after drying them under the sun. [They’d] pretend that these were real jewels since not everyone had access to gold back in these days,” Demontis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo matter where you go in Sardinia, the landscape proves to be an easy distraction. You can’t help but feel bewitched by the occasional ancient ruins poking out of unkempt brush, or the sight of grazing sheep, more than 3.5 million I’m told, meandering along the road. It’s idyllic and wild, and changes from glittering coastal inlets to a more rugged inland landscape. The island’s history of isolation and subsequently \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20130503-sardinia-land-and-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebeing conquered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by pretty much every neighbouring Mediterranean stronghold over the centuries, has played an integral role in the culinary traditions and customs that have prevailed over the years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpecialties like \u003Cem\u003Efregola\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a doughy pellet-sized pasta; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emalloreddus alla Campidanese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with almost insect-looking shells that are made by hand-rolling dough on round reed baskets; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the rarest pasta-making traditions in the world today, have put Sardinian pasta dishes on the map. However, lorighittas have remained relatively unknown to the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets,” said Efisio Farris, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FSweet-Myrtle-Bitter-Honey-Mediterranean\u002Fdp\u002F0847829928\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eauthor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Sardinian chef based in Texas. “Nobody knows and nobody talks about it.” Born in Orosei on Sardinia’s eastern coast, Farris moved to the US in 1986.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When I started my restaurant in 1988 in Dallas, I wanted to introduce people to this food that I grew up with,” Farris said. “It’s also a tribute to my family, and it’s important to preserve these recipes and stories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter visiting Morgongiori with his aunt a couple years ago, Farris met two women who were making lorighittas by hand, and knew he’d stumbled on something that he had to bring back to the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was kind of worried, because of how labour-intensive lorighittas are to make – and each one is made by hand – that I needed to charge higher for the dish…,” he said. “But people recognised the quality and flavour of the dish, and it became an instant favourite in our restaurant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENestled in the foothills of Monte Arci in western Sardinia, the village of Morgongiori dates back thousands of years to the Nuragic era between 900 and 500BC. The first settlers arrived in the 6th Century BC in search of obsidian, a precious black stone derived from volcanic activity prominent in the region. Today, this town of around 800 inhabitants is perhaps best known for its handicraft rugs and tapestries, which are traditionally woven on ancient horizontal looms and are preserved in the village’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.morgongiori.eu\u002Findex.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=28&Itemid=139\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo Vivente dell’Arte Tessile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The second most recognised craft, however, is lorighittas, listed as endangered by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Florighittas\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food’s Ark of Taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Lorighittas are considered to be very valuable because we were at risk of losing dishes like this completely,” said Raimondo Mandis, president of Cagliari’s Slow Food chapter in a telephone conversation. “There were no more than 10 women who were hand-making lorighittas, and that was on a seasonal basis.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first recorded history of lorighittas dates to the 16th Century, in a testimony regarding the production of a peculiar pasta braided in the shape of a ring in Sardinia. The report was made to the King of Spain, who had control over most of southern Italy including Sardinia, Naples and Sicily at the time, and who had inquired about the economic activities happening on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, Mandis explained, lorighittas were prepared exclusively in Morgongiori for the feast that takes place on All Saints Day every year on 1 November. “Like many regions throughout Italy and especially Sardinia, food customs and traditions are tied to villages for anything from religious reasons or family gatherings to Sunday lunch,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Morgongiori’s most popular fables, told to local children, is the story of Maria Pungi Pungi. Armed with a pitchfork, this witch-like character would fly over the houses on the night of All Saints Day and pierce the bellies of children who had eaten too many lorighittas, so that the pasta would fall out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries, Sardinia’s pastoral culture dictated that it was a woman’s duty to take care of food preparations while the men were busy on the fields, so it’s not unusual that dishes like this would be made primarily by women, Mandis told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Their shape [is] an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down from mother to daughter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The name lorighittas reckons the idea of little ears,” Mandis said. “But their shape is connected to wedding rings, preciously made by women's hands, an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down through the women of the family from mother to daughter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there remains some debate over whether lorighittas were made exclusively by unmarried women in the village in the hopes of securing a husband, given Sardinia’s history of superstitions relating to food and matrimony, it wouldn’t be difficult to imagine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are many traditions in Sardinia relating to food and marriage,” Mandis said. “For lorighittas, it has to do with the idea that for young, single women in a large family, it was a tradition or a wish for them to get married – so while they were waiting on a wedding ring, they would work on this ring-like pasta in the kitchen with their mothers and grandmothers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInspired by the stories I’d heard, I returned from Sardinia determined to make lorighittas from scratch. The recipe, which only calls for three ingredients – a semolina-based durum flour (a typical wheat grown in the fields of Sardinia) lukewarm water and salt – should be easy enough, I thought. It’s the actual hand rolling and twisting of the dough that takes years to master.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In my opinion, the hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them,” Francesca Turnu, councillor of the Municipality of Morgongiori said. “And it is a culinary tradition that is alive [in this town] because the women of Morgongiori continue to make it this way by hand to this day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDexterity be damned, I thought as I began furiously massaging the durum mix into a pliant-enough lump of dough that would eventually transform into the twisty little ringlets that’d make the women of Morgongiori proud. After an hour of kneading and hand-rolling the dough into bucatini-thin noodles, it was time for the real challenge. I took my first long strip of dough and rounded it twice between my forefinger and thumb, and started, ever so gently to twist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, as they’ve done for hundreds of years, women in Morgongiori knead the dough for a minimum of 30 minutes, often much longer, dabbing it occasionally with salty water until it’s nice and pliable. Once the dough is ready and the pieces of lorighittas are plaited, they’re left on a reed basket to dry, which is a good time to get started on the sauce. In Morgongiori, a typical ragu will include either chicken or pigeon with onion, garlic, parsley, white wine and tomato passata. Once the lorighittas are cooked (for less than three minutes), they’re coated with fresh pecorino cheese and layered with the ragu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESounds easy enough, except that four hours and fewer than 10 semi-passable pieces of lorighittas later, I had to throw in the towel. Maybe they didn’t turn out as planned because I’m married and live in a one-bedroom loft apartment in Jersey City – or maybe I just need to get a few more centuries of practice under my belt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery village in Sardinia has its own foods that are steeped largely in tradition using local produce. “The climate changes quite a bit from the central, more mountainous part of the island where pastoralism is really dominant,” said Carole Counihan, professor emerita of anthropology at Millersville University in the US state of Pennsylvania and visiting professor at Cagliari University in Sardinia. “Everybody has vegetable gardens, and sheep herding is dominant in central mountain regions, but then there are places where fishing is important, especially in the coastal regions, so there’s a lot of variation in the diet.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECounihan, who has studied Sardinian food and food activism traditions in her fieldwork, said the downturn in maintaining cultural food customs really started to take a turn in the 1980s with the introduction of supermarkets in Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sardinia has more square metres of supermarkets than any other region in Italy, so a lot of people I interviewed through my fieldwork said ‘[when] I was little I ate mostly from local farmers and shepherds’,” Counihan said. “Part of that shift is due to the decline of local agriculture and pastoralism, which people are now trying to bring back. There’s been a resurgence of young farmers going back to the land with new ways and new models of supporting the local food movement that’s starting to take shape.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe effort to maintain lorighittas started in 1994, when the Morgongiori town council got together and decided to host a festival dedicated to this special pasta. Renzo Ibba, mayor of Morgongiori, said the town also invited some of Sardinia’s most acclaimed chefs at the time – including Roberto Petza, owner and chef of Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sapposentu.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ES'apposentu di Casa Puddu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Siddi, a village in central Sardinia not far from Morgongiori – to come and present different recipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The [town] council also involved local, small producers (all women) to give tradition a new life, thanks to an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.galmarmilla.it\u002Fen-en\u002Fgal.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEU-funded programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that helped them emerge from a family production to a professional undertaking,” Ibba said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the town of Morgongiori continues to dedicate the first Sunday of August to lorighittas in a town-wide festival called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dromosfestival.it\u002F2016\u002Fdromosfestival\u002Fluoghi\u002Fluogo\u002FMorgongiori-Centro-Storico-00001\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESagra Delle Lorighittas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to showcase its culinary legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Now, thanks to a few good chefs, we are seeing lorighittas on menus and in restaurants around the country; they are much more common,” Mandis said. Mostly, you will see them made in very good restaurants and it’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-06-26T19:29:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Lorighittas: an all-but-lost Sardinian dish","headlineShort":"A pasta made only by single ladies","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","summaryShort":"It is one of the island's best-kept secrets","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:19:33.4729Z","entity":"article","guid":"07be68a4-7c3f-43f1-a710-926889c015f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:32:07.319512Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484347},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","_id":"621e444d45ceed64b0104baf","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It's so difficult and time-consuming to prepare, that for 300 years only the women of a single Sardinian family knew how to make it.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAway from its famed cerulean seas, Sardinia’s craggy interior is a twisting maze of deep chasms and impenetrable massifs that shelter some of Europe’s most ancient traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents here still speak Sardo, the closest living form of Latin. Grandmothers gaze warily at outsiders from under embroidered veils. And, in a modest apartment in the town of Nuoro, a slight 62-year-old named Paola Abraini wakes up every day at 7 am to begin making \u003Cem\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – the rarest pasta in the world.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, there are only two other women on the planet who still know how to make it: Abraini’s niece and her sister-in-law, both of whom live in this far-flung town clinging to the slopes of Monte Ortobene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENo one can remember how or why the women in Nuoro started preparing su filindeu (whose name means “the threads of God”), but for more than 300 years, the recipe and technique have only been passed down through the women in Abraini’s family – each of whom have guarded it tightly before teaching it to their daughters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut after an unexpected invitation to Abraini’s home, I found myself in her kitchen, watching her work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI wasn’t her first guest, though. Last year, a team of engineers from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barilla.com\u002F\"\u003EBarilla\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pasta came to see if they could reproduce her technique with a machine. They couldn’t. After hearing rumours about a secret Sardinian pasta, Carlo Petrini, the president of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002F\"\u003ESlow Food International\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visited this spring. And this summer, British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver stopped by to ask Abraini if she could teach him how to make the dish. After failing for two hours, he threw his hands up \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=rHGZLjJ1CAk\"\u003Eand said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, “I’ve been making pasta for 20 years and I’ve never seen anything like this.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Many people say that I have a secret I don’t want to reveal,” Abraini told me, smiling. “But the secret is right in front of you. It’s in my hands.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESu filindeu is made by pulling and folding semolina dough into 256 perfectly even strands with the tips of your fingers, and then stretching the needle-thin wires diagonally across a circular frame in an intricate three-layer pattern. It’s so difficult and time-consuming  to prepare that for the past 200 years, the sacred dish has only been served to the faithful who complete a 33km pilgrimage on foot or horseback from Nuoro to the village of Lula for the biannual Feast of San Francesco. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I arrived, the October feast was three days away and Abraini had just finished making enough su filindeu to feed the 1,500 pilgrims expected to descend on Lula from throughout Sardinia. She worked five hours every day for a month to make 50kg of the pasta, and for the larger nine-day feast in May, she’ll prepare four times as much.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are only three ingredients: semolina wheat, water and salt,” Abraini said, vigorously kneading the dough back and forth. “But since everything is done by hand, the most important ingredient is elbow grease.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAbraini patiently explained how you work the pasta thoroughly until it reaches a consistency reminiscent of modelling clay, then divide the dough into smaller sections and continue working it into a rolled-cylindrical shape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen comes the hardest part, a process she calls, “understanding the dough with your hands.” When she feels that it needs to be more elastic, she dips her fingers into a bowl of salt water. When it needs more moisture, she dips them into a separate bowl of regular water. “It can take years to understand,” she beamed. “It’s like a game with your hands. But once you achieve it, then the magic happens.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the semolina reached just the right consistency, Abraini picked up the cylindrical strand to stretch and fold the dough, doubling it as she pressed the heads of the su filindeu into her palms. She repeated this sequence in a fluid motion eight times. With each sweeping pull, the dough became thinner and thinner. After eight sequences, she was left with 256 even strands about half as wide as angel-hair pasta. She then carefully laid the strands on a circular base, one on top of another, to form a cross, trimming any excess from the ends with her fingers before repeating the process over and over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen she’d formed three layers, she took the base outside to dry in the Sardinian sun. After several hours, the layers hardened into delicate sheets of white razor-thin threads resembling stitched lace. Abraini then broke the circular sheets into crude strips and packed them into boxes, ready for the San Francesco feast’s prior to place them in boiling sheep’s broth with grated pecorino and offer it as a thick soup to the pilgrims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“No one’s really sure how this ancient tradition started, but it’s at the heart of the festival,” Stefano Flamini, this year’s prior, told me. “If there’s no su filindeu, there’s no Feast of San Francesco.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut after more than 300 years in the same matrilineal family tree, these threads of God may need a miracle to survive for future generations. Only one of Abraini’s two daughters knows the basic technique, and lacks the passion and patience of her mother. Neither of Abraini’s daughters have daughters of their own. The two other women in Abraini’s family who still carry on the tradition are now both in their 50s and have yet to find willing successors among their own children.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is one of the most at-risk foods of becoming extinct, in large part because it’s one of the most difficult pastas to make that exists,” said Raffaella Ponzio, head coordinator of Slow Food International’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fthe-ark-of-taste\u002F\"\u003EArk of Taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an initiative that aims to classify and preserve the world’s most endangered culinary traditions. Of the project’s 3,844 listed items, no other pasta is made by as few producers as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Ffilindeu-2\u002F\"\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – making it both the world’s rarest and most endangered pasta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Conserving su filindeu isn’t just a question of a culinary art form, but also a piece of cultural identity,” Ponzio added. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERecognizing this, Abraini has done something previously unheard of with her family’s tightly guarded dish: she attempted to teach girls in Nuoro from other families how to make it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It didn’t go well,” Abraini admitted. First, she approached the local government to see if she could open up a small school, but they told her there was no money. Then, she agreed to invite students into her home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The problem was that once they saw how I actually do it, they’d say, ‘It’s just too much work’, and wouldn’t come back,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, Abraini refuses to let the tradition fade away, making it her mission to share su filindeu with the world. In the last few years, Italy’s premier food and wine magazine, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gamberorosso.it\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGambero Rosso\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has invited her to Rome twice so they can film her preparing the dish. Recently, she’s begun making su filindeu for three restaurants in the area – and in the process, offering non-pilgrims a chance to taste it for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt one of those restaurants, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteciusa.it\u002F\"\u003EAl Ciusa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, her black squid-ink dyed su filindeu nero won Sardinia’s Porcino d’Oro prize for best dish in 2010.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt another, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.trattoriarifugio.com\u002F\"\u003EIl Refugio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it’s the most popular item on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have people coming from all over Europe just to taste it,” owner Silverio Nanu told me as I sampled the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I shared that news with Abraini, her eyes danced with delight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You know, for me it’s a blessing just to be able to make su filindeu. I’ve been in love with it since the first time I ever saw it, and I love it more each day,” she said. “I hope to continue to make if for many years ahead – but if one day I have to stop, at least I’ll have a video.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcustom-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECustom Made\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that introduces you to custodians of cultural traditions all around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EIf you can’t stay the night at Sebastiano Secchi’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.agriturismotestone.com\u002Ffile\u002Fhome_page.html\"\u003EAgriturismo Testone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, at least pop in for dinner and taste the island’s best rendition of Abraini’s su filindeu pasta, served in mutton broth.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAt the expertly run \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.trattoriarifugio.com\u002Fris_cont.php\"\u003EIl Rifugio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in downtown Nuoro, owner Silverio plays host out front while his son Francesco whips up su filindeu in the kitchen.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUpscale \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteciusa.it\u002F\"\u003EAl Ciusa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E serves Nuoro’s only version of su filindeu nero, which Abraini invented by combining the pasta with squid ink.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"If you’re in Sardinia between 1-9 May or 1-4 October, follow the long line of pilgrims to the San Francesco church outside Lula. Otherwise, try it at these three restaurants:","calloutTitle":"Where to Try Su Filindeu","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-10-19T15:03:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta","headlineShort":"The secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It's so difficult and time-consuming to prepare, that for 300 years only the women of a single Sardinian family knew how to make it.","summaryShort":"Today, there are only three women alive who know how to make su filindeu","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:50:39.15378Z","entity":"article","guid":"dec0b13c-6e7c-4a74-bde6-465e788d9d88","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:55:44.294962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484347},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6a4f5f73","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a recent evening, Elia Origoni stood at Sardinia’s south-eastern tip, watching the azure sky darken until it merged with the sea, and contemplating the most daunting leg of his ambitious trip. In two days, he would set off on a 405km paddle across the Tyrrhenian Sea in hopes of becoming the first person to traverse Sardinia, Sicily and the entire length of Italy using only his feet, a rowboat and his prodigious stamina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"His remarkable 7,000-plus km journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a combination of fantasy and really hard work,\" said Origoni, a mountain guide from northern Italy. He expects to cover 30km to 40km each day, walking and camping in Sardinia, rowing to and hiking through Sicily, and then rowing again to mainland Italy, where he will walk all the way to Muggia, a small town in the far north-eastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Origoni's remarkable 7,000-plus km self-propelled journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula and will connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm doing this without using Google Maps or a GPS because we're losing the value of being able to move without a phone in our hands. With a physical map, you have a much wider view of where you are; you discover your surroundings and how they connect,\" Origoni told me, confessing that the Sardinia-to-Sicily paddle gave him pause. \"The next four days will be the longest of my life, because I've never done this before. In the mountains, I move confidently; in the boat, it's a new challenge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eliaorigoni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrigoni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who is making the arduous trip carrying just a 7kg backpack, is at the extreme end of a growing movement among young Italians. By embracing an ecologically friendly approach to tourism that emphasises connections with local cultures, the nation that birthed the world's Slow Food movement is increasingly championing slow, sustainable travel – and celebrating the beauty of its vast and largely unexplored wilderness in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Sentiero dei Parchi will cross 20 regions, pass through six Unesco sites and stretch nearly 8,000km","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter Italy became the global epicentre for the coronavirus pandemic and imposed some of Europe's strictest \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fextra\u002Fdj3jonuhi1\u002Fcoronavirus-year-of-the-mask\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elockdown measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last spring, the Italian National Tourism Research Institute \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isnart.it\u002Feconomia-del-turismo\u002Findagini-nazionali\u002Findagine-2020\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that more than 27 million Italians chose hiking trips for their summer holiday last year, with nearly half of Italians wanting an immersive nature holiday. The study, titled Covid Changes the Holidays of Italians, concluded, \"The fear of the virus… allowed Italians to discover and try a new way of going on vacation.\" The Italian financial newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilsole24ore.com\u002Fart\u002Fitaliani-popolo-camminatori-e-trekking-l-attivita-piu-praticata-vacanze-2020-ADnic1CB\"\u003Etermed this trend\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"a paradigm shift caused by the need for social distance, the desire to visit small, uncrowded places and the need for air and movement\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn response, last May as restless Italians emerged from one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.france24.com\u002Fen\u002F20200504-italy-starts-to-emerge-from-world-s-longest-nationwide-covid-19-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's longest nationwide lockdowns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Italy's Ministry of the Environment and the storied 158-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItalian Alpine Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E announced an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to extend Italy's existing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsentieroitalia.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESentiero Italia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Grand Italian Route) by roughly 1,000km to form a new path connecting each of Italy's 25 national parks, including those on the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. When it's completed in 2033, the new route, known as the Sentiero dei Parchi (Path of the Parks) will cross each of the country’s 20 regions, pass through six Unesco World Heritage sites and stretch nearly 8,000km – twice the length of the US' Appalachian Trail and roughly 10 times the distance of the Camino de Santiago's complete St Jean Pied de Port to Galicia route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe investment shows \"how much we care about our priceless heritage of biodiversity and its enhancement in terms of sustainable tourism, especially in this post-Covid recovery period when we all feel the need to be more outdoors,\" said Italy's Minister of the Environment, Sergio Costa, when he announced the initiative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConceived by a group of environmental journalists, the Grand Italian Route was completed in the 1990s but has been neglected in recent decades. Now, hikers, environmentalists and tourism officials are championing its new offshoot as a way to celebrate Italy's rural soul and expand many travellers' notions that the Italian landscape is limited to the rolling Tuscan countryside they see on postcards or screensavers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of Alpine hay bathing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210218-italys-best-forgotten-cities-and-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrances Mayes on the enduring allure of Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Italian town surrounded by Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Path of the Parks encompasses a veritable highlight reel of dramatic – if lesser-known – Italian vistas. Hikers can explore Sardinia's ancient cork forests; travel into the Apennine Mountains, Italy's mountainous backbone, and look for bear and fox in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoabruzzo.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; search for hidden hermitages surrounded by beech forests in Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna; and come face to face with ibex in the snow-capped peaks that tower over Evian-clear lakes in the Alpine \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pngp.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGran Paradiso National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Until now there has never been a national authority or study on the care and planning of the Italian hiking trail network,\" said Alpine Club vice president Antonio Montani. \"The work has always been carried out by volunteers who look after their own land free of charge or with occasional funds without a general vision. With this change, we hope that mountains, hiking trails and slow tourism can gain sufficient importance and dignity to be relevant at government level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schengenvisainfo.com\u002Fnews\u002Fcovid-19-absence-of-tourists-could-harm-italy-with-e36-7-billion-loss-wttc-says\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly expected to lose a devastating €36.7bn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from coronavirus-related tourism restrictions in 2020 and travellers potentially hesitant to cram back into Italy's many cities, museums and trattorias once international travel resumes, officials hope the new Path of the Parks will offer visitors a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the \u003Cem\u003Ebel paese\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Officials hope the Path of the Parks will offer a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the bel paese","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The impact of Covid on the tourism industry … has been significant,\" said Maria Elena Rossi, marketing and promotion director of the Italian National Tourist Board. \"[Italy] can benefit in the future from more diversified and innovative itineraries connected to outdoor activities, both slow and adventurous. The Path of Italian Parks connects communities, biodiversity and natural environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESara Furlanetto, a photojournalist, echoes this point. \"Italy can’t just be known for cultural cities or the beautiful sea. It's much, much more. Most Italians are not aware that Italy is 70% mountains and hills. We wanted to shift the narrative and put the face of the mountains out front,\" she said of the hiking organisation she founded, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vasentiero.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVa' Sentiero\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore Covid, Furlanetto and her friends would post their Grand Italian Route hiking trips on their website and invite other outdoor enthusiasts to join them for all or part of the itinerary. Since 2016, Va' Sentiero has grown from a group of three intrepid friends to a forum for more than 2,000 fellow hikers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Now more than ever, thinking about the post-pandemic scenario, people want to reconnect with [nature],\" Furlanetto said. \"The Grand Italian Route is also a symbol for environmental protection, so it must be promoted with a slow approach. Right now, the trail crosses 16 out of the 25 national parks of Italy. I believe the idea of expanding the trail in order to reach the totality of the parks is of great value, and… can represent an important boost for the promotion of Italian natural areas.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Now more than ever ... people want to reconnect with [nature]","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESupporting local communities and encouraging multi-day hiking trips is critical to the path’s success said Montani. For now, much of the existing Grand Italian Route requires hikers to camp. But as part of the new €35m investment, Montani is working to develop a network of small hostels and bed and breakfast options at some of the stops within the national parks, as well as trails to accommodate wheelchair-bound travellers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We have a wealth of small artistic sites, like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.santuariodioropa.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOropa Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Alps, with frescoes from the 1500s,\" Montani said. \"Normally you'd think you have to go to Florence or Rome to see them, but if you love nature and you love art, these trails give you the possibility for both. Every 20km you get a different view, different kinds of cuisine, different cultural traditions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat sense of discovery and wonder also inspires Francesco Paolo Lanzino, the mastermind behind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwoodvivors.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWoodvivors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a seven-person group that recently started a six-month trip riding mules from the far southern Sicilian island of Pantelleria all the way to Turin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We're choosing to follow the Sentiero Italia because it really is a path linking every part of Italy, passing from some of the ancient and storied paths used since the time of Romans, Greeks and even before,\" he said. \"The Sentiero dei Parchi will open up new opportunities not only to explore these ancient routes, but to connect small villages along the way. The new paths show that we are not alone, but united through the rural roots of our historical connections.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong the way, Lanzino and his team are going to shoot a documentary and television episodes about local culture, highlighting the often-overlooked regional farmers and artisanal wine and cheese producers so central to Italian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We are looking to capture the traditions that were always passed orally from parents to children, and looking at what remains,\" Lanzino said. \"I'm convinced that from this past, which seems so far away but is still alive in rural parts of Italy, people can learn to build a more sustainable future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne timeless tradition, so long a lure for tourists in Italy, is the country's warm hospitality. Though this has cooled by necessity in Covid-plagued cities, Origoni says the pre-pandemic social spontaneity is part of what is making his self-propelled trip so appealing. As he concluded a day of hiking and was looking for a spot to pitch his tent in rural Sardinia last month, a man saw him and invited him over for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I went to his small country home and had dinner with him and his family. We had pasta, two glasses of wine and became friends. It was lovely,\" Origoni said. \"In Milan, we're under an orange alert, but in certain small rural areas, you can go back to socialising in a way that feels normal. To be welcomed by people feels great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-18T22:44:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Sentiero dei Parchi: A new hiking trail uniting Italy","headlineShort":"The Italy most Italians don't see","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","summaryShort":"A new hiking trail aims to unite all 25 of Italy's national parks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:06:13.451637Z","entity":"article","guid":"66d66755-355d-4ed0-aed8-ce9a82bc4b62","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:27:43.732535Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484347},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","_id":"621d269d45ceed44e627db02","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri"],"bodyIntro":"Obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree on the island of Sardinia, corbezzolo honey isn't sweet and has a history that dates back more than 2,000 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey tricks the palate. Instead of the sweetness one would expect, this extremely rare honey, born in the mountains of the Italian island of Sardinia, is surprisingly bitter, with notes of leather, liquorice and smoke. Nomadic beekeepers have been setting up beehives in the region to collect this aromatic treat – derived from the white, bell-shaped flowers of the wild strawberry tree – for more than 2,000 years. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStatesman, lawyer and philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero (106-43 BCE) mentioned the honey in his defence of a Roman citizen accused of murder in Nora, Sardinia. \"\u003Cem\u003EOmne quod Sardinia fert, homines et res, mala est! Etiam mel quod ea insula abundat, amarum est!\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Everything that the island of Sardinia produces, men and things, is bad!),\" he exclaimed. \"Even the honey, abundant on that island, is bitter!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even the honey, abundant on that island, is bitter!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps Cicero didn't know that beyond its bitterness, corbezzolo honey is packed with nutrients. Vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties, it's been prized by generations upon generations on an island known for the notably long lifespans of its inhabitants, many of whom \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp08b8r8d\u002Fthe-italian-valley-that-holds-the-recipe-for-living-over-100\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elive to more than 100 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsed in traditional medicine as a sleep inducer, cough sedative and anti-diarrheal, thanks to its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, it could also be anti-tumoral: A 2019 study conducted by researchers at the Polytechnic University of the Marche and the Universities of Vigo and Granada in Spain, published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS1756464619302221?via%3Dihub\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Functional Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, concluded that corbezzolo honey reduces growth and division of colon cancer cells grown in the lab.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe legend of the broadleaf \u003Cem\u003Ecorbezzolo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E shrub, known in English as the strawberry tree for its reddish-orange, strawberry-sized fruits, first appear in The Book of Days, Ovid's exploration of the ancient Roman calendar, written in the early 1st Century CE. According to Ovid, the Dea Carna, Roman goddess and protector of health, vitality and door hinges, saved the newborn heir of the ancient Latin city of Alba Longa by tapping the door of the child's house three times with the twig of a strawberry tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmgs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Corbezzolo honey is obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERoman author, naturalist and philosopher Pliny the Elder gave the wild shrub its botanical name, \u003Cem\u003EArbutus Unedo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Apparently not a fan of the sour fruit, Pliny named it after the Latin expression \u003Cem\u003EUnum edo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: \"I'll only eat one.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey production was well established on the island by the Middle Ages. Eleanor of Arborea (1347-1404 CE), one of the era's most powerful judges, mandated heavy fines and, in worst-case scenarios, ear amputation for the theft of corbezzolo-collecting beehives, in her legal code Carta de Logu, which she wrote in the Sardinian language in 1392 CE. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe strawberry tree grows wild throughout the Mediterranean basin, Western Europe and even Ireland, though Sardinia holds the record for corbezzolo honey production.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe corbezzolo's fruits ripen slowly, changing colour several times during the process, from yellow to orange to ripe red. But it's the shrub's mildly sweet, white flowers – which bloom from October until December – that the bees pollinate and whose nectar they transform into a honey with an extraordinary flavour profile that encapsulates the smells and flavours of Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmhy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bees pollinate and collect nectar from the corbezzolo shrub's bell-shaped white flowers","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe flowers' petals unfold slowly; a curiously delicate process that a heavy downpour can easily bring to a halt. And because the flowering takes place in late autumn when the weather can be cold, rainy and windy, the bees sometimes struggle to even make it out of their hives to collect the precious nectar. The bell-shaped flowers produce about half as much nectar as other flowers, so the bees have to work extra hard to collect enough. These three key factors make corbezzolo honey so precious that it's hard to find outside Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo one knows exactly what gives the honey its uniquely bitter taste, though some believe it's due to the presence of glycoside arbutin (a molecule that binds with sugars in plants) in the nectar of the strawberry tree's flowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"No one knows exactly what gives the honey its uniquely bitter taste","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHoneys with complex flavour profiles like corbezzolo can be analysed as a sommelier analyses a fine wine. Indeed, Italy is home to a national registrar of honey sommeliers, trained by the Bologna-based \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.albomiele.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlbo Nazionale degli Esperti in Analisi Sensoriale del Miele\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the National Register of Experts in Sensory Analysis of Honey. Beyond its bitterness, corbezzolo honey features sharp notes of balsamic vinegar, pine tree sap, leather, liquorice and coffee with a lingering, smoky finish. It's often added to coffee to enhance the drink's bitter aromas. Deep amber in colour, it takes on a light brown hue upon crystallisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmg2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Corbezzolo honey is often drizzled on seadas, a typical Sardinian dessert","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd just like a fine wine, it also pairs perfectly with several traditional Sardinian dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's delightful when drizzled atop \u003Cem\u003Eseadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Eorillettas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, two typical Sardinian desserts,\" said Fabio Pibiri, a Chicago-based wine importer from Sardinia. \"For an unforgettable pairing, pair with aged \u003Cem\u003Epecorino sardo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sweet sheep's milk cheese, and Cannonau Nepenthe, an intense, captivating red wine produced in the province of Nuoro in central-west Sardinia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EMiele corbezzolo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [corbezzolo honey] is a fascinating and unique product, and an integral part of Sardinian food culture well worth seeking out,\" said Letitia Clark, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.letitiaclark.co.uk\u002Fbook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBitter Honey: Stories & Recipes from Sardinia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Pair it with an aged Vernaccia, a white wine from the [Sardinian] region of Oristano, yet another fascinating local product.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey encapsulates the Mediterranean island it calls home, with its earthy notes of other wild Sardinian flora and tinge of minerality, reflective of the surrounding sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmmy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Atop Sardinia's mountains, nomadic beekeepers set up beehives to collect honey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamed Italian poet Giovanni Pascoli noted the colours of the Italian flag in the corbezzolo tree itself – green, glossy leaves, white flowers, red berries – and recalled its struggle to thrive on the windswept mountaintops in his 1906 Ode to the Corbezzolo:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EO verde albero italico, il tuo maggio è nella bruma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: \u003Cem\u003Es\u003C\u002Fem\u003E'\u003Cem\u003Eanche tutto muora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, tu \u003Cem\u003Eil giovanile gonfalon selvaggio\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Espieghi alla bora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\" \"Oh green Italian tree, your May month is in the mist: even if everything else dies, you, the youthful wild banner, unfold to the northern wind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-01T19:45:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Italy's rare, surprisingly bitter honey","headlineShort":"Italy's rare, 2,000-year-old honey","image":["p0br1ps9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The honey is vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.0582951","longitude":"7.8549239","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The honey is vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties","promoImage":["p0br1ps9"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree on the island of Sardinia, corbezzolo honey isn't sweet and has a history that dates back more than 2,000 years.","summaryShort":"It's prized on an island known for notably long lifespans","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-28T19:46:20.437563Z","entity":"article","guid":"f1cec752-51c1-4a4f-b14d-d89ec92404ed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-01T17:59:45.212243Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484347},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","_id":"621e444c45ceed604f5b11b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the English Midlands, and as the waters of the Ladybower Reservoir fell, the lost village of Derwent emerged.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was all gone. The lanes of gritstone cottages, the church and old schoolhouse, the sheep grazing on hillsides and the sloping pastures. Derwent Valley Water Board had, despite protests, flooded the valley and the village of Derwent to provide water for the growing cities in the English Midlands. By 1945, Derwent village no longer existed and in its place lies a sheet of blue: Ladybower Reservoir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter completing the dam needed to create the reservoir in 1943, rains, mountain run-off and rivers filled the valley – and slowly, the waters rose. From then on, nothing of Derwent was visible, except for the ghostly church spire that poked out of the reservoir during dry periods when the water level dropped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt these times, locals would return to gaze at the eerie spectacle in morbid fascination, as if to remind themselves the village had once been a reality. Some swore they could hear the church bell ringing out across the waters – although the bell had been removed before the village was drowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-derbyshire-46236792\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELadybower Reservoir's low water levels reveal abandoned village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe sinful city swallowed by the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190704-vietnams-vast-underground-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA cave that could fit a skyscraper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore the two World Wars, Derwent and nearby Ashopton village had seemed as permanent as the Peak District moorlands above them, with their centuries-old stone buildings and long-established communities. The Water Board had earmarked an isolated area higher up the valley to create two initial dams and the Howden and Upper Derwent reservoirs, and the small number of residents from affected farms and smallholdings were moved down the valley to safety at Derwent and Ashopton. No-one dreamed that this part of the Derwent Valley, with its two beautiful villages, would soon be flooded, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECreating the first two reservoirs was a huge undertaking: relocating residents; organising a workforce; preparing the ground; laying pipes; building bridges and dam heads. A new, temporary village sprung up nearby to house the hundreds of workers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town was named Birchinlee, nicknamed “Tin Town” as the buildings were made of corrugated metal – easy to both erect and dismantle after the reservoirs’ completion. Despite its short-lived existence, the model village had every facility: a hospital, school, canteen (that also served as a pub), post office, recreation hall, bath house and railway station. It even had a police station. By 1912, Howden was finished, and the Upper Derwent Reservoir below it, four years later. The hundreds of workers and their families packed up and left. Tin Town was dismantled, metal sheet by metal sheet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon, the Water Board realised that Howden and Upper Derwent reservoirs were not meeting the demands of the growing English Midland cities like Sheffield and Leicester. A third reservoir, Ladybower, was approved to be built further south, even though the villages of Derwent and Ashopton stood in the way of its construction – they would simply have to be flooded along with the valley. Work on Ladybower began in 1935, and the affected villagers were again relocated to other areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I moved to the Peak District in 2000, there was little evidence Birchinlee had ever existed. Undeterred, I set off one early summer’s day a few years ago in search of Tin Town, following a ruler-straight grassy path beside Howden Reservoir and on through trees where a railway track had once lain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was no sign of the tin huts; only their stone foundations remained. However, information boards erected along the railway line clearing showed a series of black-and-white photographs of the temporary residents at work and at play in front of the tin huts, with explanatory captions beneath. There were pictures of navvies – the itinerant workers – busy on the construction sites, women and children washing clothes outside modest dwellings and families posing in surprisingly homely interiors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI learned that one of the huts had been reassembled in the nearby village of Hope, and found this last remnant of Tin Town squeezed between buildings down a side street, the tiny corrugated hut now a modest hairdresser. I was also able to hunt down the village packhorse bridge – a handsome humpbacked bridge – reassembled at Slippery Stones, where it spans the river at the head of Howden Reservoir. The bridge had been moved there, stone by stone before the flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving explored the sites of Birchinlee and Slippery Stones, I hoped the submerged ruins of Derwent would reveal themselves soon, as they sometimes do during dry spells. Derwent had made a brief appearance in the long, dry summer of 1976, and once in each of the following decades, most recently in 2003. Ashopton, the second sunken village, also lay undisturbed under the water, but I knew there was no chance of ever seeing it as it’s now buried beneath silt. But what remained of Derwent beneath Ladybower?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELuck was on my side. In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the area. The waters of the reservoir fell, and fell again, until the remaining stones of Derwent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-derbyshire-46236792\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eemerged\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from the mud-caked banks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the middle of September, the ruins of Derwent Church were exposed. Nearby, cottage doorways, hearths and lower walls revealed themselves. The reservoir level continued to drop and I could walk out to the ruins of the stately home of Derwent Hall, stepping gingerly across the muddy reservoir floor in the autumn sunlight. Among the rubble, an imposing stone fireplace with its rounded columns was still largely intact, and the building’s ornate gatepost rose out of the water behind it. Wandering through the debris, I imagined the lives that would have gone on within the big house’s walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe path beyond the church that led to the school was also exposed, along with the little bridge that crossed the stream to the schoolhouse and its gateposts. There was an eeriness and melancholy in the piles of blackened stones. This sight was far removed from the sepia pictures I’d seen of the village: schoolchildren wandering along a leafy country lane in straw hats and smocks; boys loitering by a stream below cottages; villagers bent over the bridge in front of the big house. Old photos of Derwent Hall revealed a grand panelled drawing room and ornate ballroom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas there anyone left, I wondered, who remembered the lost villages of the Upper Derwent Valley? Someone who could breathe life back into the damp, crumbling ruins?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA friend pointed me in the direction of 92-year-old Mabel Bamford, who lives in the village of Bamford south of the reservoirs. Mabel welcomed me into her home with an energetic step and sparkling eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent,” she said cheerfully.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBamford beckoned me to sit down, eager to begin her story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When Rose Cottage in Ashopton came vacant, my parents moved there, and we lived in the village until 1938.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What do you remember about life in Ashopton?” I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I remember our cottage was very simple. There was no electricity, just a paraffin lamp in the living room. Candles were used everywhere else. The loo was an earthen closet a long way from the house.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI nodded, recalling the accounts I’d read of villagers rehoused by the Water Board in homes with modern bathrooms. It had made the move easier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“And what about Derwent village, Mabel? Do you remember it?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Oh, yes, I was going to school there, even as the construction of Ladybower was underway. We had to walk one-and-a-half miles to Derwent. Sometimes the shooters and beaters in grouse season gave us a lift. But the rides we liked best were offered by the pipeline workers. They’d lift us inside the big black pipes they were constructing at the site of the reservoir,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI nodded. I had noticed the large pipes that span Ladybower at Fairholmes, where the visitor centre sits at the head of Ladybower. They were easily big enough to hold a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I remember in the cold weather there was always a fire lit at school,” Bamford continued. We’d bring a big potato with our initials carved into it and Teacher would bake them for us and make us cups of cocoa.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBamford told me more stories: of the policeman who came to her house to berate her for stealing apples; and of the excitement in Ashopton when the petrol station owners generated electricity with a windmill-like contraption. And how the Derwent young men walked to the Methodist Church at Ashopton to scrounge for food at their social gatherings, rechristened the “Bachelors’ Tea” as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI left Bamford, feeling privileged to have heard her first-hand stories of the drowned villages. I’d been offered a glimpse into the past firstly with Derwent's reappearance, and again with Bamford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne year on, the ruins of Derwent village have returned to the murky depths of Ladybower Reservoir. I’m now left wondering: will Derwent village stay hidden for another decade or more? Or with climate change, will its resurrection become a regular occurrence? I will have to wait and see.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsunken-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores mythical underwater worlds that seem too fantastical to exist today but are astonishingly real.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-25T20:53:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The lost villages of the Derwent Valley","headlineShort":"The eerie remains of a drowned village","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the English Midlands, and as the waters of the Ladybower Reservoir fell, the lost village of Derwent emerged.","summaryShort":"Some swore they could still hear the church bell ringing","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:59.495781Z","entity":"article","guid":"99d95f5c-9bc3-43f5-b5c8-8900a5e3f48a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:57:04.020313Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484348},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","_id":"621e445645ceed69f2673d16","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"According to medieval legend, an ancient forest and kingdom once flourished in Wales. Now, as the result of a recent storm, the myth has been brought back to life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Off the beaten path","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBordered by the stunning landscapes of the Cambrian Mountains on one side and Cardigan Bay’s wild coastline on the other, it’s surprising that Mid Wales is often overlooked as a UK travel destination. However, a lack of infrastructure – and industry – within its rugged, barren plains and stark, craggy peaks has allowed it to remain relatively under the radar for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe county of Ceredigion, located in the heart of Mid Wales, is arguably Wales at its most rural. Dotted with nature reserves and country lanes that are crisscrossed by cycling and walking routes, it’s as off-the-beaten-track for travellers as the tiny country gets. Perhaps even lesser known to visitors, though, is that it is believed to have once been home to a sunken ancient forest and mythical kingdom – one that has recently returned to the limelight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A land of myths and legends","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn the county of Ceredigion, Welsh legends dating to the Middle Ages tell of an ancient forest near the seaside villages of Borth and Ynyslas that once surrounded a kingdom. The forest stood on fertile ground and extended to around 20 miles west of the current shoreline between Ramsey Island and Bardsey Island into what is now Cardigan Bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne myth mentioned in the Black Book of Carmarthen, the earliest surviving complete manuscript written in Welsh, dating back to at least the 13th Century – tells how the forest was part of an ancient kingdom known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fblogs\u002Fwaleshistory\u002F2012\u002F03\u002Flegend_of_cantrer_gwaelod.html\"\u003ECantre'r Gwaelod\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or the “Lowland Hundred”. Thought to be between 4,500 and 5,000 years old, the kingdom was said to be ruled by an affluent king named Gwyddno Garanhir who governed over at least 16 towns filled with bustling markets that served as commerce hubs for merchants and traders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Two princes and a maiden","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to legend, the land was fortified against the sea by a dyke that was looked after by two princes; however, one of them, named Seithenyn, got drunk and allowed water to enter the floodgates, drowning the forest and kingdom. Another legend tells of Mererid, a maiden in charge of the floodgates, who was amorously distracted by Seithenyn and thus unable to shut the gates when she needed to, allowing the water to pour in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile these stories have remained part of Wales' collective imagination for millennia, a violent storm in 2019 has brought them back to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A ‘kingdom’ revealed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn late April 2019, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-48076233\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStorm Hannah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E battered Britain with wind gusts that reached more than 80mph, causing power cuts and travel disruptions across Wales. As the storm lashed the shores of Borth and Ynyslas, peat-covered tree remains that had been buried under the saltwater and sand for thousands of years re-surfaced. Some linked these ancient stumps to the forest of mythical Cantre'r Gwaelod.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPetrified stumps like these have been surfacing here and there in the area for a number of years, particularly in 2010 and 2014 when previous storms stripped away pebbles and sand from the coastline. However, Hannah caused a much larger stretch of the forest to be revealed, and each day since, during low tide, the sea reveals hundreds of eerie-looking stumps that appear like jagged jaws along the two-mile-long, black-sand beach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Evidence of life","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EScientists have found that the submerged forest contains pine, alder, oak and birch tree stumps, which have all been preserved due to the lack of oxygen and high alkaline levels found in the bog. The living trees became gradually waterlogged with peat growth when the area was inundated by rising sea levels some 4,000-5,000 years ago. As the water level rose and a thick blanket of peat formed from natural sedimentation, the trees stopped growing and eventually died.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOld animal bones and a pair of deer antlers have been discovered here, too, suggesting that this stretch of land once flourished when the sea level was lower and before the area had completely succumbed to the ocean. Whether or not the forest is actually the one mentioned in the myth of Cantre’r Gwaelod, archaeologists believe there was life here dating back to at least the Bronze Age (3000 to 1200BC), in part because of the discovery of a timber walkway made of coppiced branches and upright posts (designed to cope with rising water levels) that’s thought to be between 3,100 and 4,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EVarious other archaeological discoveries have been made here, including fossilised human and animal footprints preserved in the hardened top layer of peat, along with scatterings of burnt stones thought to be from ancient hearths. Due to this evidence of human settlement, the area is often referred to as “the Atlantis of Wales” in the media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A pattern of storms","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EArchaeologists believe that extreme weather due to climate change is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-49413435\"\u003Eexposing more ancient artefacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like those in Borth and Ynyslas. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.walesonline.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fwales-news\u002Fstunning-ancient-forest-welsh-beach-16309498\"\u003EWales Online\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Alun Hubbard, professor at Aberystwyth University’s department of geography and earth sciences, believes that the uncovering of the stumps might also be partly due to sea defences installed in Borth in 2012. While they have protected the village from crashing waves, they have also changed the continuous movement and of sand, pebbles and stones that have previously hidden the stumps from view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther submerged forests unearthed by recent storms have appeared at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-south-west-wales-25716974\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewgale beach in Pembrokeshire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-devon-26263856\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount’s Bay in Cornwall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, both in 2014. In that same year, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fscience\u002F2014\u002Ffeb\u002F07\u002Foldest-human-footprints-happisburgh-norfolk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 850,000-year-old footprints considered to be the earliest evidence of humans outside of Africa were revealed by storms in Norfolk, England, and a fossil of an ichthyosaur (a marine reptile, meaning “fish lizard” in Greek) was unearthed – and narrowly avoided total destruction – after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-dorset-25578510\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea storm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E crumbled cliffs and rocks along the Jurassic Coast of Dorset and East Devon in southern England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003ENevertheless, the uncovering of the hundreds of petrified tree stumps by Storm Hannah has become perhaps the most talked about discovery locally, as historians and archaeologists now have more reason to think that the revealed forest may be linked to the myth of the Lowland Hundred as mentioned in The Black Book of Carmarthen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Where myths come alive","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe precious medieval manuscript is housed at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.library.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Library of Wales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Aberystwyth (pictured), while a facsimile copy can be viewed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.library.wales\u002Fdiscover\u002Fdigital-gallery\u002Fmanuscripts\u002Fthe-middle-ages\u002Fthe-black-book-of-carmarthen#?c=&m=&s=&cv=12&xywh=-481,0,2401,2041\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Along with the famous Welsh folk song, The Bells of Aberdovey, which is also thought to refer to the story of Cantre’r Gwaelod, the references mentioned in the book have helped keep the legend alive. (The myth is so compelling to locals that some insist they can still hear the bells of a drowned church from Cantre’r Gwaelod on a quiet day.) Similarly, one of the stories in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fwales\u002Fhistory\u002Fsites\u002Fthemes\u002Fsociety\u002Fmyths_mabinogion.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mabinogion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a book of Welsh stories compiled from oral traditions from the 11th Century and earlier – refers to the drowning of the kingdom that once lay between Wales and Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there are no historical records documenting an entire kingdom being swept away, scientists believe that land was lost to the sea when oceans gradually rose to their present levels, starting around 8,000 years ago, after ice cover from the most recent Ice Age diminished. Boulder clays and gravelly sands deposited by melting ice sheets then started to form beaches and shingle ridges, which shifted over wooded areas along the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"For curious visitors","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yha.org.uk\u002Fhostel\u002Fyha-borth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe petrified forest is located 7km north of the town of Aberystwyth along Borth and Ynyslas beaches, and visitors can find the most stumps just north of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yha.org.uk\u002Fhostel\u002Fyha-borth\"\u003EYHA Borth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They’re most visible at low tide (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.metoffice.gov.uk\u002Fweather\u002Fspecialist-forecasts\u002Fcoast-and-sea\u002Fbeach-forecast-and-tide-times\u002Fgcm4esk8g%23?date=2020-03-10\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Met Office\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a good resource for tidal timing).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe numerous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.salopleisure.co.uk\u002Fcaravan-parks\u002Fsearch\u002Fmid-wales-coastal\u002Fborth\u002F1421\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecaravan parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E surrounding Borth and Ynyslas beaches make a good base from which to explore the region’s jaw-dropping coastline. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitwales.com\u002Fthings-do\u002Fnature-landscapes\u002Fdiscover-wales-coast-path\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWales Coast Path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the first footpath in the world to follow a country’s coastline in its entirety, is a breathtaking 870-mile-stretch of some of the best walks in Wales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENearby, midway between Aberystwyth and Machynlleth, the 2,000-hectare \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnaturalresources.wales\u002Fdyfiynyslas?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDyfi National Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the only Unesco biosphere reserve in Wales and is home to the Dyfi Estuary and Ynyslas sand dunes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The myths live on","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Cantre’r Gwaelod still undoubtedly lives on through myths, legends and fantasy, the petrified trees uncovered at Borth and Ynslas point to some truths. After all, the ancient trees show proof of a previous life existing under the sea. But perhaps more importantly, they are also connecting a new generation to the tales of their ancestors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsunken-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores mythical underwater worlds that seem too fantastical to exist today but are astonishingly real.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-19T22:34:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How a storm revealed a Welsh kingdom","headlineShort":"The 'Atlantis of Wales', rediscovered","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"According to medieval legend, an ancient forest and kingdom once flourished in Wales. Now, as the result of a recent storm, the myth has been brought back to life.","summaryShort":"A recent storm has brought an ancient myth back to life","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:24:27.938177Z","entity":"article","guid":"3865beee-bf2a-4b05-b487-6a7e833220f6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:06:00.10161Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484353},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","_id":"621e444f45ceed69eb579aa8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a chilly and dark morning as I exited the train station at Wapping in East London. Under the orange glare of streetlights, I changed my trainers for a pair of dirty wellies. People walking in the other direction, heading to work in business clothes, stared as I pulled on my plastic gloves. My office for the morning awaited so I turned down a narrow alleyway and carefully made my way down an uneven flight of steps, slick with green river weeds. Today I was going “mudlarking”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you find yourself crossing one of London’s busy bridges and look down, you may notice that the height of the Thames changes dramatically over the course of the day: the tidal river can rise and fall by as much as 7m. When the tide is out, you may see people scurrying down hidden stairs, ladders and slipways to trudge along the foreshore. These are “mudlarks” – and they play a vital role in preserving the history of the Thames by picking up objects and artefacts lodged in the river’s mud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it’s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWalking along the foreshore of the Thames in central London is not everyone’s idea of a hobby – it can be cold, dirty and just as muddy as mudlarking suggests. Historically, being a mudlark was not a desirable station in life. The terms came about in the Georgian and Victorian periods when the Thames was one of the major routes to transport goods into the city. At this time, the banks of the river would have swarmed with the melancholy figures of mudlarks, mostly poor women and children who would be “up with the larks” to work whenever the river ran low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the tide dropped, they would wade into the mud to grab lumps of coal, pieces of rope or anything else careless boatmen had dropped overboard that they could sell. Mudlarks were a chiefly London phenomenon because few port cities had as large, exposed riverbanks where they could descend to do their work. In addition, the mud of the Thames is anaerobic – having very low levels of oxygen – so is perfect for preserving organic material that would otherwise rot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its humble origins, mudlarking is undergoing a renaissance. It has never been easier for people to explore the Thames: anyone looking for inspiration just has to follow the mudlarking hashtags on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook. The \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesdiscovery.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThames Discovery Programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a group of historians and volunteers, run guided tours of the foreshore where “expert guide[s] will point out fascinating archaeology hiding in plain sight like Saxon fish traps and jetties that once led to Tudor palaces… and [ensure] that you stay safe and stick to Port of London Authority rules,” said Josh Frost, senior community archaeologist with Thames Discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile these tours are a great introduction to communal mudlarking, most mudlarks are solitary creatures and can often be found on their own, staring at the stones beneath their feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the surprise best-selling books of 2019 was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fuk\u002Fmudlarking-9781408889213\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMudlarking: Lost and Found on the River Thames\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Lara Maiklem, who stumbled into mudlarking almost by accident. “One day I found myself at the top of one of the river stairs looking down onto the foreshore and I decided to go down,” she wrote. “For some reason, until then, I'd thought of the foreshore as a forbidden space, sometimes revealed, other times covered over with water. I found my first object that day, a short piece of clay pipe stem, and I was hooked.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy story was similar. Always tempted to play the archaeologist as a child, I dreamed of striking it rich by finding \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170926-the-lost-jewels-of-bad-king-john\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKing John’s lost golden treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that sank in a river. One day, long after I should have given up such fancies, I read about mudlarking online. I ran down to the Thames and pulled out my first treasure: a broken clay pipe last smoked by someone in the 18th Century. Now I can be found under London Bridge looking for Roman pottery; in Rotherhithe searching for industrial relics; and around Putney for prehistory. The joy of mudlarking is that you never know what might turn up or where.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's lawless 'fourth' country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200527-the-tree-that-changed-the-world-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tree that changed the world map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200507-foods-you-can-forage-from-your-own-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British feast from garden weeds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Thames is one of the greatest and largest archaeological sites in the world, and the entire history of Britain can be told from items found on the foreshore. Many objects in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museumoflondon.org.uk\u002Fmuseum-london\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have labels giving their provenance as “Discovered in the Thames”."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarks must get a license from the Port of London Authority. For a minimal fee, covering three years, this allows you to search in the mud and stones of the Thames and dig up to 7.5cm deep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhatever you uncover must be declared to Finds Liaison Officers and belongs to the Port of London Authority, but if not deemed of historical significance you may keep what you find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Mudlarking rules","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"Even a cursory glance at the river will reveal broken pottery pieces, shards of glass and twisted pieces of metal, and mudlarks have discovered everything from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGiven the lack of funding in archaeology in the past few years, the amateur eyes of mudlarks have been incredibly helpful in pointing out fragile structures emerging from the mud, with the Portable Antiquity Scheme (PAS) having just recorded its 1,500,000th archaeological discovery made by members of the British public.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It is tremendously important that mudlarks report their finds to the Portable Antiquities Scheme in accordance with the terms of their licence, no matter how trivial or mundane they seem,” said Stuart Wyatt, Finds Liaison Officer for the London area, who assesses and records the artefacts found by mudlarks for the PAS.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it’s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important. The preservation of lead, leather and bone artefacts is especially good, whether a Roman bone hair pin or a 17th-Century child’s pewter toy. These artefacts are often lost on land sites due to adverse soil environments, but the anaerobic qualities of the Thames foreshore preserve them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, mudlarking can be a risky hobby. When the tide turns, it turns fast. You must always be aware of your route off of the foreshore. The mud is another hazard: on one of my first mudlarking trips, a more experienced mudlark told me how he had once fallen into a pit left in the mud. He was lucky to have a bucket to claw his way out – though the Tube ride home was a little dirty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it’s the mud of the Thames that makes mudlarking so rewarding. The layers of dirt contain artefacts from every stage of London’s history and pre-history. Liz Anderson, a mudlark who \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Famudlarksdiary.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eruns a blog about her finds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, once pulled a 2,000-year-old Roman nit comb from the mud. “The comb is made of boxwood and what I love about it is that it's almost exactly the same design as these things still are today,” she told me. “It also has mud between the teeth, in which almost certainly there may still lurk Roman nits. When I found it, it was in such good condition it looked like it had only been dropped yesterday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the river meanders through the centre of the city, untold interesting stories are constantly revealed. On a small patch of foreshore in Rotherhithe in south-east London, you can see tumbled red bricks where the buildings levelled by the Luftwaffe in World War Two fell into the river. Beside those bricks are myriad rusting nails, screws and ship plates left from a time when Rotherhithe was known as a ship-breaking site in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENearby is a row of wooden jetty supports. Looking closely, you might notice one is somewhat different: instead of rotting from the outside, it is hollow. This post is not made of wood but is a whale rib. From the 1720s, whaling ships ferried their blubbery trophies into Greenland Dock where the whale fat could be rendered down into useful oils. Whale bones found their way into many products, but sometimes, as here, they were used whole if builders found themselves short of timber.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese items are all on a stretch of the Thames no more than 100m long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarking is not all about the physical objects you find on the river, however. Anderson speaks poetically of the joys of being on the foreshore. “I instantly forget any anxieties or problems that I have for the few hours or so that I'm down by the river,” she said. “Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings – the wildlife, birds, boats going past, the sounds, the way the light reflects on the water, the changing landscape on whatever part of the Thames foreshore I happen to be mudlarking on that day. Even on a cold, windy or wet weather day, it’s very invigorating.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut on a brisk morning, when you are up with the larks and a freezing wind is blowing along the grey Thames and no finds are turning up, it can be hard to stay cheerful. Once all I discovered was a used condom and a discarded belt. But the rich possibilities of the Thames continue to draw mudlarks back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Anderson, “A dream find for me would be a Neolithic flint tool... It's lovely to find coins and things, but you can't beat finding something like a flint tool because of [its] age and how special [it is] to find and hold. Some of them are so beautifully worked and crafted.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaiklem is searching for an item with a story to tell. “My dream find is a complete medieval St Thomas Becket pilgrim badge,” she said. The pewter relics were produced in huge numbers as souvenirs at Becket’s shrine in Canterbury, and you can imagine one of Chaucer’s pilgrims accidentally losing theirs on the way back into old London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe longer you mudlark, the more you want to find. “It is addictive,” Maiklem warned me. But the bug has already bitten me – even if I do still dream of finding golden treasure in the Thames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Funearthed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnearthed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that searches the world for newly discovered archaeological wonders that few people have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-30T04:12:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The lost treasures of London’s River Thames","headlineShort":"A London river awash with treasure","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","summaryShort":"Thousands of people walk beside the Thames, but few stop to look closely","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:57.353611Z","entity":"article","guid":"261f9f22-4ff1-43d6-91ab-ba8762b0befb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:23.226212Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484354},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","_id":"621e445645ceed69e04dbc56","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flizzie-enfield"],"bodyIntro":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century. But scientists recently have discovered that it wasn't lost at all – it's simply underwater.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EMidway between the town of Aldeburgh and the seaside resort of Southwold, two popular spots on Britain's Suffolk coast, lies the quiet rural village of Dunwich. Around 200 people live in this one-road settlement with its cosy pub\u002FB&B, local museum, long gravel beach and monastery ruins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EYou wouldn't know it now, but in the Middle Ages the village was a thriving port the size of the City of London's square mile, built on fishing, trade and religious patronage. Greyfriars Monastery was established by Franciscan monks in the 1250s on lower-lying ground closer to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EBut a massive storm in 1286 swept away the monastery, along with many homes and other buildings. The crumbling stone walls you can visit today are the remains of the \"new\" friary, rebuilt in the late 13th Century on land half a mile from the sea. They now stand perilously close to the edge of the cliffs – illustrating how storms, surges and coastal erosion turned the tide on thriving Dunwich, some of which was later built on higher ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8858"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The remains of a 13th-Century monastery, built to replace the one swept away by the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the intervening years a legend arose that the medieval town remained intact below the surface of the water: Britain's very own \"Atlantis\". Locals have even claimed that at certain stormy times you can hear the church bells ringing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This stretch of coastline has a ghostly quality,\" said novelist Esther Freud, great-granddaughter of Sigmund, who lives in nearby Walberswick; her grandparents migrated to the area after fleeing Nazi Germany. \"Walking along the shoreline on a misty day, you feel the past and present intermingled in this strange liminal space between land and sea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This stretch of coastline has a ghostly quality","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExperts, however, thought the old town would have long ago been broken up by the waves and washed away. That is, until evidence began to emerge that this legend of \"Britain's Atlantis\" was not just a fanciful tale, but that medieval Dunwich – in at least some of its former glory – was out there, just metres from the shore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8bv3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The quiet town of Dunwich was once a thriving medieval port","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom around the 1960s, fishermen began to report nets snagging on something below the surface of the water where the old town used to stand. These reports prompted local marine archaeologist and diver Stuart Bacon to search for the remains of the last church to be taken by the sea: All Saints, which finally tumbled from the cliffs in 1911.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the North Sea is hostile and usually has almost zero visibility, Bacon persisted. On a rare clear day in 1972, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvimeo.com\u002F134511265\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehe saw the church's tower looming through the water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – covered in pink sponges and crawling with crabs and lobsters. A subsequent dive also revealed the ruins of another church, St Peter's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn't until several decades later that a full survey of the seabed provided a much fuller picture of what lay beneath the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8ccy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A map put together by Sear’s team shows where the 16th-Century coastline would have been","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDavid Sear, professor at the University of Southampton's Department of Geography and Environmental Science, grew up holidaying in Dunwich as a child. \"Thirty or so years later I became interested in using the latest sonar technology to map riverbeds and suddenly my childhood interest in this mythical lost city and my academic interests came together,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy digitising an existing 16th-Century map of the town, which showed Dunwich as it would have been, Sear was able to pinpoint where some of the structures of the lost town might be found. In 2008, he hired a crew and took out a sonar-equipped boat and began his technological search of the seabed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8cpm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Guided by sonar, divers looked for the ‘lost’ city of Dunwich","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe still remembers that moment when the boat neared the first possible site. \"Everyone went very quiet when we came up towards the first site and waited,\" he said. \"Then suddenly there was a ping as the sonar detected something and, on the bank of computer screens in the cabin, we saw chunks of masonry appearing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd then it kept happening.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everyone went very quiet when we came up towards the first site and waited","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWithin a square mile just off the shore of modern Dunwich, Sear and his team were able to locate medieval Blackfriars monastery, St Nicholas Church, St Peter's Church, All Saints, St Katherine's Chapel and chunks of masonry that could have been the town hall and various port buildings. The mythical lost town of Dunwich was not lost at all, but lying on the seabed – almost exactly where the Tudor map maker and the old storytellers claimed it would be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8d54"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"St Katherine’s Chapel appears on the seabed hundreds of years after being ‘lost’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThe story of Dunwich is not unique. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dunwich.org.uk\u002Fresources\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdunwich_12_report.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThere are more than 300 settlements in the North Sea basin that have been lost\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over the last 900 years due to coastal erosion or flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EDunwich, however, was the largest of the lost towns. A reconstructed model at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dunwichmuseum.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDunwich Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E allows you to see it as it probably looked in its heyday. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Dunwich boasted about 10 churches, two friaries (Blackfriars and Greyfriars) and its port and daily market made it a very important trading post and centre for ship building,\" said museum manager Jane Hamilton. \"Dunwich merchants were rich men, profiting from the wine, stone, wool and salt trades. Their prosperity would have been reflected in the buildings in which they lived, making Dunwich an outwardly wealthy place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EBut its success was threatened by its geography. Dunwich was established on the estuary and mouth of the Dunwich River, which allowed trade to flourish. The northern part of the town was built on low-lying ground close to the river, while the centre was built on the higher ground to the south, where the soil was made of highly erodible sands and gravels. Severe storms in the 1280s and 1320s destroyed buildings and blocked the harbour on which trade depended. The lower lying areas were inundated during storms and storm surges, while the higher ground was eroded as the cliffs collapsed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8dp0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Imaging of masonry from St Peter’s from the explorations done by Sear and his team","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThe way in which these two parts of the town were destroyed is directly related to the remains that have, so far, been found. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\"While we discovered the buildings that had fallen from the cliffs landed in pretty much the same spot, albeit broken into chunks, the earlier, low-lying part of the town is more likely to have been submerged\" with building foundations relatively intact, said Sear. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EOffshore, the Dunwich bank (a mobile sand bank) is moving landwards as the coastline rolls back. \"The tantalising possibility is that as the cliffs recede further and the sandbank migrates inshore, we should start to see some of these earlier buildings gradually exposed. These are likely to be much more intact,\" Sear said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EIt's an exciting prospect and one that could bring visitors back to Dunwich in numbers not seen since its zenith. However, it may not be for some time. While it's impossible to know when this reveal could happen, scientists estimate not for at least another 50 years, perhaps longer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8f39"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"As the sandbank off Dunwich migrates inshore, some of the ‘lost’ medieval buildings might be exposed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAnd alongside the thrill of its rediscovery and the possibility of more to come, there is a cautionary tale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\"What we have here is the story of a community failing to deal with rapid changes in its circumstances,\" warned Sear. \"We will see this happening in other places around the world as communities reach a tipping point beyond which they can no longer absorb series of continuous knocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EHe added: \"In the 1120s everyone wanted to invest in Dunwich, but by 1270 the damage to infrastructure and the blocking of the port led to loss of revenue. Soon people began pulling out and trading elsewhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAs we grapple with the global impact of climate and socio-economic change, the tale of Dunwich is not just a ghostly story of the past. The ghosts of the present and future are woven through it too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-28T10:47:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Dunwich: The British town lost to the sea","headlineShort":"Is this Britain's 'Atlantis'?","image":["p0br88nk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.2753981","longitude":"1.6185666","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century","promoImage":["p0br88nk"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century. But scientists recently have discovered that it wasn't lost at all – it's simply underwater.","summaryShort":"Scientists have discovered that it's more than just a legend","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-27T21:00:12.832433Z","entity":"article","guid":"0e00125b-1be5-4403-887a-ecc634b0b88e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T21:00:12.832433Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484348},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","_id":"621e445045ceed6b71383383","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, which bustles with more than 50 leather artisans and shops, one family still holds on to a centuries-old tanning recipe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA strong smell of salt, leather and wet fur permeated the tiny workshop where Luis Yamberla Cacuango was busy working on an intricate leather belt pattern.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOut in the spacious back yard, cowhides, llama pelts and goat skins were in various stages of processing. Stacked and covered in salt, steeping in lime or tanning in a large barrel, the skins and hides were being worked on with simple tools: a smooth stone to scrape the remaining meat from a raw hide; stone and wood barrels to hold and process the skins. As Yamberla and his father, Luis Sr, busied themselves in the workshop, Yamberla’s mother Maria Virginia offered me some of her homemade \u003Cem\u003Echicha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a drink made of fermented corn and wheat, then carried on brushing a sheepskin and chatting to her granddaughters and nieces in her native Quichua.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181115-switzerlands-artfully-tedious-job\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA craft kept alive by 10 Swiss masters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180917-the-rarest-fabric-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe rarest fabric on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180515-in-india-gambling-with-bows-and-arrows\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe lottery keeping a culture alive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECotacachi, a small, quiet mountain town in Ecuador’s Imbabura Province, is famous for its leather artisans who offer various items around the plaza de armas (main square) and in the surrounding streets, kiosks, stalls and shops. Beautifully decorated saddles and bridles, jackets, bags and purses, souvenirs and shoes – in Cotacachi, leather is everywhere. This town has been making leather products for hundreds of years, largely because of the surrounding cattle and dairy farms that used to be a primary source of raw hides. “Now, most of the leather, already processed, arrives from the nearby town of Ambato or as far as Colombia to save costs,” Yamberla told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other leather artisans in the Imbabura Province, Yamberla buys his raw hides from local farmers instead of wholesale sellers, refuses to use chemicals and prefers an ancient highland recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My father taught me everything I know. We collect the \u003Cem\u003Ehuarango\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tree seeds and boil them to get a dark liquid, which is a perfect natural leather tanner,” Yamberla explained as he showed me around the family workshop. This ancient recipe has been passed down through generations, and, according to Yamberla, he and his family are the only ones in Cotacachi still working with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUsing a chemical process, prepared hides can be tanned in 24 hours. Yamberla’s father’s recipe takes a month. “It’s much longer, and everything is done by hand, but we prefer it this way. We’re proud to be highlanders, and we want to preserve our Andean traditions of tanning leather,” Yamberla told me. Just like Maria Virginia, he and his father converse in their native Quichua language, and both wear their hair long, in the local style the of indigenous Otavaleño people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELife wasn’t always so tranquil for Yamberla’s family, though: historically, the indigenous people of Ecuador were frequently victims of oppression. Yamberla’s father still remembers the\u003Cem\u003E huasipungo \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efeudal system and working for white or \u003Cem\u003Emestizo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mixed heritage) landlords (he joked that nowadays nobody beats him any longer, except for his wife Maria Virginia), whereas Yamberla recalls more recent incidents of prejudice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Whenever I had to go out and find jobs to support my family, white or mestizo co-workers would mock my long hair saying I looked like a girl, or that I ‘wore my tie backwards’, pointing at my braid,” he said quietly. “Not too long ago, when an indigenous man ran for mayor in Cotacachi, most folk said an Indian should not be put in a position of power as it would be ‘unnatural’ for him to give orders to whites.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We’re proud to be highlanders, and we want to preserve our Andean traditions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat indigenous candidate, Auki Tituaña Males, was elected nonetheless in 1996 and became Cotacachi’s first indigenous mayor. After significantly reducing illiteracy in Cotacachi, among other successes, Tituaña was re-elected in 2000 and 2004, and has since won two prestigious international awards: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmirror.unhabitat.org\u002Fbp\u002Fbp.list.details.aspx?bp_id=4061\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUN-Habitat Dubai International Award for Best Practices\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fportal.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Fev.php-URL_ID=4830&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco’s ‘City of Peace’ prize\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for his work on indigenous integration and sustainable development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Before the ‘90s, if you looked at the data gathered in the Ecuadorian census, most people identified as ‘white’ or ‘mestizo’, and most indigenous people would try and position themselves as ‘mestizo’ if they had a tiniest drop of mixed blood. After 1994 or thereabouts, this started to change: people began reclaiming their origins, and when the next census came, they put themselves as ‘indigenous’. Now, they not only identify as indigenous but also emphasise the precise \u003Cem\u003Eruna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or community, that they are from such as Shuar or Quichua,” said Jean Brown, a culture and permaculture coordinator who is originally from the UK.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving spent more than 40 years living in Ecuador and working with various cultural projects involving indigenous communities, Brown says the change in indigenous pride is palpable all over the country – but especially Cotacachi, where a large proportion of the population is indigenous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Ecuadorian indigenous people got educated, learned to organise themselves, began political work. It’s a very different atmosphere now, compared to 20 or 30 years ago,” Brown said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYamberla’s father’s tannery is living proof of the changing times. Instead of selling cheaply made souvenirs to tourists, Yamberla’s family makes costumes for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecuador.com\u002Fblog\u002Finti-raymi-a-celebration-of-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInti Raymi festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual indigenous festival of the sun that takes place at the end of June. He also loves making horse and cattle whips, belts, drums – things that local people need and use. \"We are beginning to rediscover our roots and are proud of who we are,” Yamberla said as he finished the belt. “Here, see, this is Aya Uma, the spirit of the Inti Raymi… and here, these are the 13 lunar months,” he explained, showing me the decorations on an exquisite handmade festival costume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Yamberla and his family have a unique trade, they barely make ends meet. Their shop is on a quiet, narrow street towards the outskirts of town, where tourists rarely come, and is mainly frequented by people from the local indigenous communities. Yamberla charges about $20 for a cattle whip, $60 for a pair of the traditional fur trousers used in the Inti Raymi, and around $120 for a large, fully processed cowhide. To make ends meet, he must sometimes get temporary construction jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s unfortunate that the Ecuadorian government isn’t supporting traditional arts and crafts more. When it comes to tourism, Ecuadorians think tourists want nice, air-conditioned hotels and modern restaurants. But in reality, travellers are a lot more interested in seeing authentic people and things – including the ancient leather tanning techniques, or guitar or saddle makers,” Brown explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYamberla agrees. “Maybe one day, I can have a tourist for an apprentice,” he joked as he helped his father bring in the wooden boards holding stretched-out hides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-12-06T21:34:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The ancient leather tanners of Ecuador","headlineShort":"The end of a native tradition?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, which bustles with more than 50 leather artisans and shops, one family still holds on to a centuries-old tanning recipe.","summaryShort":"It’s living proof of the changing times","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:26:33.649448Z","entity":"article","guid":"e3260bd4-0e68-4fbe-956c-6c95a1cccb0d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:35:11.511572Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484355},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","_id":"621e445445ceed6b69086df1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Index\"\u003EIn the 15th and early 16th Centuries, a small island in Lake Titicaca was one of South America's most important religious sites. Revered as the birthplace of the Sun, the Moon and the Inca dynasty, Isla del Sol (\"Island of the Sun\") drew pilgrims from across the Andes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few years ago, I followed in their footsteps, catching a boat from the Bolivian town of Copacabana across the choppy, gunboat-grey lake, which sits an altitude of 3,812m, making it the only place on the planet a traveller can \"suffer from sea-sickness and mountain-sickness at the same time\", according to British explorer Percy Harrison Fawcett, who visited in the early 1900s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter docking on Isla del Sol's north-east coast, I followed a centuries-old trail past a host of Inca and pre-Inca ruins – \u003Cem\u003Etambos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (waystations), shrines, temples, plazas, altars and a ceremonial complex that includes Titikala, a slab of sandstone from which Andean creator god Viracocha is said to have brought forth the Sun and the Moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECaptivated by the ancient sites and the views of the snow-streaked Cordillera Real in the distance, I paid little attention to the terraced fields snaking along the hillsides of the island. Yet these deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as \u003Cem\u003Eandenes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Spanish for \"platforms\"), these terraced fields are scattered across the central Andes. First constructed around 4,500 years ago by ancient cultures across the region, they were perfected by the Inca, who emerged in the 12th Century and were masters of adopting and adapting techniques, strategies and belief systems from other societies. Andenes, says Cecilia Pardo Grau, curator of the British Museum's current \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fperu-journey-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeru: a journey in time exhibition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, were \"a creative way of defying the terrain… that allows for an efficient way of growing [crops]\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Choquequirao on steep forested hill, Cusco, Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey allowed Andean communities to overcome challenging environments, including steep slopes, thin soils, extreme and sharply fluctuating temperatures, and scant or seasonal rainfall. Fed by artificial pools and elaborate irrigation systems, andenes significantly expanded the area of cultivable land. They also conserved water, reduced soil erosion and – thanks to stone walls that absorbed heat during the day and then released it at night – protected plants from severe frosts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis enabled farmers to grow dozens of different crops, from maize and potatoes to quinoa and coca, many of which would not otherwise have survived in the region. The upshot was a dramatic increase in the overall amount of food produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond their ingenuity, andenes also have an artistic quality, forming vast geometric patterns on the landscapes of the Andes. Some look like giant green staircases carved into the mountainside, while others are made up of sets of concentric circles, capturing the attention like an optical illusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most impressive is the Peruvian archaeological site of Moray, which resembles a natural amphitheatre. Located around 50km north of the former Inca capital of Cuzco and 3,500m above sea level, it demonstrates how andenes were used to create a range of microclimates. Thanks to the varying designs, sizes, depths and orientations of the terraces, the temperature differential between the highest and lowest is around 15C. Moray has been described as an \"agricultural research station\": soil samples from across the empire have been discovered here and researchers argue the Inca may have used the site to experiment with practices like crop rotation, domestication and hybridisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESophisticated agricultural techniques such as andenes played a vital role in the expansion of the Inca empire, which was known as Tawantinsuyu and spanned much of modern-day Peru, western Bolivia, south-west Ecuador, south-west Colombia, north-west Argentina and northern Chile at its height. One of the oldest surviving accounts of their use comes from Garcilaso de la Vega (1539-1616), the son of an Inca noblewoman and a Spanish conquistador. After capturing a new territory, the Inca started to expand the amount of agricultural land by bringing in skilled engineers, de la Vega noted in his book, Royal Commentaries of the Incas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of andenes for agricultural purposes in Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Having dug the [irrigation] channels, they levelled the fields and squared them so that the irrigation water could be adequately distributed,\" he wrote. \"They built terraces on the mountains and hillsides, wherever the soil was good… In this way the whole hill was gradually brought under cultivation, the platforms being flattened out like stairs in a staircase and all the cultivable and irrigable land being put to use.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe newly expanded land was subsequently split into three parts: one for the Inca emperor; one for religious purposes; and one for the community, tranches of which were then distributed by local leaders. Although they were not taxed, farmers were required to spend time working on the emperor's and the religious lands, as well as their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechniques such as andenes were combined with policies such as \u003Cem\u003Emitma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where people were moved to recently conquered territories to help cement Inca control; and \u003Cem\u003Emit'a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a form of compulsory public service used to provide manpower to build infrastructure, including a road network tens of thousands of kilometres long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis approach to agricultural, community and imperial organisation allowed the Inca to amass large surpluses of food for use during droughts, floods, conflicts and other lean periods. These stockpiles – which included \u003Cem\u003Echuño\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, freeze-dried potatoes produced by repeated exposure to frost and bright sunshine – were kept in huge storehouses called \u003Cem\u003Equllqas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In the absence of a written language, the Inca used a complex system of multicoloured knotted strings known as \u003Cem\u003Equipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or \u003Cem\u003Ekhipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to maintain inventories, as well as keep track of population and astronomical data. Some academics believe quipu may even have been used to record narratives such as stories, songs and poems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrau argues that quipu – examples of which are on display in the British Museum's exhibition – were central to Inca society. \"They inherited this knowledge from the Wari, a society that existed in the southern highlands, 400 years before the Inca,\" she said. \"The Inca used a decimal system: they had a different knot for every number from one to nine, and then for tens, hundreds and thousands... the quipu was key in the way the empire functioned and was organised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View to the Colca Canyon with the Colca river flowing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the andenes, stockpiles and quipus helped the Inca to steadily expand an empire that eventually dominated a great swath of South America, encompassed 12 million people and produced majestic citadels such as Machu Picchu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th Century triggered the overthrow of the Inca and the decline of the andenes. Colonial violence, epidemics of European diseases and forced displacement devastated the indigenous populations of the central Andes. European crops and agriculture practices were introduced and quickly spread throughout the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet while many andenes were abandoned or fell into disrepair, they never disappeared completely. Drawing on knowledge passed down over the generations, many Andean farmers continue to use them today, and though often overlooked by travellers, they remain a common sight in places such as Isla del Sol and the wider Titicaca region, the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu, and the Colca Canyon in southern Peru, a fissure twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, there has also been renewed academic interest in andenes as a form of sustainable agriculture that could help the world cope with the climate crisis, water scarcity and soil erosion. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN, for example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Flatin-america-and-the-caribbean\u002Fandean-agriculture\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edescribes traditional Andean culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"one of the best examples of the adaptation and knowledge of farmers to their environment\", and highlights its sustainable approach to land usage, water management, soil protection and crop biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFour and a half thousand years after they first emerged, the terraced fields of the Andes appear to be ahead of their time. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-13T10:04:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The innovative technology that powered the Inca","headlineShort":"The technology that powered the Inca","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"13.3299","longitude":"72.1971","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","summaryShort":"It helped them build the largest empire in South American history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-12T20:04:36.692474Z","entity":"article","guid":"9d902331-9f60-4fdc-b7a7-cb847bf544b1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:40.514947Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484357},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","_id":"621e445445ceed67ba7c3a7b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Route Napoleon gives visitors the chance to put themselves in the boots of the emperor, deep dive into Gallic culture and unlock the beauty of unspoiled natural landscapes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThings weren't looking good for Napoleon Bonaparte in early 1815. The former emperor of France had been in exile on the small Mediterranean island of Elba for nearly a year, he was separated from his young family and his finances were dwindling. There were also rumours about his impending banishment to an even more remote island in the middle of the Atlantic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of waiting for fate, the Corsican took matters into his own hands: escaping by boat and travelling to France. He landed at Golfe-Juan on the Côte d'Azur on February 28 with 700 loyal men and started marching towards Paris over difficult terrain to avoid arrest. Despite being declared an enemy of the state and having a price on his head, he reached his destination in less than two and a half weeks. Not only that but by the time he got to the French capital, he had raised an army and retaken control of the country – against all odds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis return is remembered as one of the greatest comebacks of all time and the path Bonaparte took through the Alpes to Grenoble – before continuing on to Paris – has also gained a certain notoriety. Known as the Route Napoleon, this 200-mile (325km) road attracts visitors from all over the world who come here to follow the emperor's footsteps and retrace a journey that changed the course of European history forever.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA national treasure\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\"The Route Napoleon is a French national treasure,\" explained Jérôme Viaud, the mayor of Grasse, a town best known for its perfume industry as well as being one of the main stop-offs on the Bonaparte's journey. \"It stretches from the Mediterranean Sea all the way up to the Alpes mountains, boasting an incredible diversity of landscapes, architecture, culture and history. There's no better way to get a snapshot of our fascinating but complex country, and I invite visitors to come experience it for themselves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Expanisve mountain view","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EViaud is also president of the A.N.E.R.N (Action Nationale des Elus pour la Route Napoleon), an association dedicated to linking the 42 villages, towns and cities crossed by this famous road. Among the list are several highlights such as Valluris, a seaside resort loved by jetsetters and artists such as Pablo Picasso; Cannes, the French Riviera town that hosts the famous international film festival; Castellane, the drop-off point for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flesgorgesduverdon.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGorges du Verdon canyon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; the commune of Sisteron, with its medieval jewel of a citadel; Gap, once voted the sportiest city in France; and Grenoble, the capital of the French Alpes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We want to encourage visitors to go deeper into the French and European past by following this slower road","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The aim of the association is to link all these places through the mediums of history and storytelling,\" Viaud said. \"Rather than taking the motorway, we want to encourage visitors to go deeper into the French and European past by following this slower road and discovering these wonderful places. The best bit is you don't have to follow it step-by-step; we suggest people to drop in and out as they desire – taking the opportunity to get lost in some of these wonderful surroundings.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFar from waning, Viaud believes the appeal of the emperor is as strong as it ever was. In a recent survey carried out by his association, 74% of tourists they spoke to placed Bonaparte as the most important figure in French history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A road runs between mountains and terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The image of the emperor is still very good in France today,\" he added. \"He remains a very popular character and inspires interest, as well as respect. When I speak to people, they are very much in awe of Napoleon, his personality, his power and what he represents in terms of order, which is something society is perhaps lacking today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210916-will-this-european-capital-ban-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWill this European capital ban cars?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Germany became the country of cars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For me, Napoleon is fascinating because he went against the grain and achieved things that others thought were impossible – like his comeback. His political influence is still felt all throughout the French system, whether it's the decentralisation of power to the academic and merits systems. He even set the foundations for the modern \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bison-fute.gouv.fr\u002FIMG\u002Fpdf\u002Freseau_routier_au_01-01-2015.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoute Nationale highway network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is still in place today – so it's only fitting we should celebrate this road named after him.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGlobal significance\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a very controversial and problematic figure (by, for example, re-instating slavery and having misogynistic views), Bonaparte has had an enduring charisma that influenced the world. His journey back to power not only changed France but it also sent shock waves much further afield.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Napoleon's return had a global impact,\" said Kate Astbury, a professor of French studies at the University of Warwick who has deeply investigated the effects of his rule on society and culture. \"The war against him stretched all over becoming more than just a battle between Britain and France. Other European nations were brought in, and it also has a very direct effect on places like the Caribbean, which becomes a hotbed of action during this era.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Black and white illustration with Napoleon centered on a horse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBonaparte's mind-bending comeback also stirred up questions of sovereignty – otherwise known as the authority to govern. Other European rulers were particularly worried when the people of France welcomed him home. He didn't have royal blood nor any real legitimacy for his background in a time where monarchs were believed to get their power from God.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Britain, the caricaturists love his return, too, as he is making fool of the old monarchs,\" Astbury explained. \"Secretly, many people are delighted he is back breaking the boring old status quo. Then when he is finally defeated at Waterloo, a few months after his escape, crowds flocked to see exhibitions of his possessions and were fascinated by what he represented. He quickly becomes a bit of a cult figure.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENatural Beauty\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the modern N85 road (the official name of the Route Napoleon) doesn't quite follow the exact path Bonaparte took in 1815. Back when the emperor made his journey, there wasn't a single tarmac route to follow, but rather a succession of tracks and pathways, as well as some cross-country excursions in some parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo get closer to what Bonaparte experienced himself, the best way is to set off by foot. There are quite literally thousands of pathways and hikes to follow that take walkers through quaint villages, ancient farmland, impressive geological formations and Unesco-protected natural parks and forests. The general climate is also very mild, which makes hiking very pleasant at most times of the year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The South-East of France is a wonderfully diverse and interesting part of the world to explore by foot,\" explained Andrea Bacher, a mountain guide who specialises in the Verdon Gorges canyon and the region of Castellane. \"I've been working here for more than 30 years, and I still discover something new each time I head out. The natural landscape is especially rich, and because a lot of this terrain is difficult to access, many things haven't really changed in thousands of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sun peaks out over mountains and canyon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Gorges du Verdon canyon is a particularly popular destination for hikers, climbers, water sports enthusiasts and nature lovers. It's an awe-inspiring rift through a high plateau which slices down to a bright turquoise river, offering up a glimpse of how the region's current geology came to be. It is also a haven for wildlife, boasting many endemic plant species and a wide range of wild animal species – many that are rare.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A lot of visitors are very excited when they see the spectacular wildlife – especially the vultures,\" explained Bacher. \"These birds were reintroduced to the area back in the 1990s and their numbers have grown rapidly. It's quite a sight when they soar overhead, their gigantic bodies cast quite a shadow, and because of their shape and plumage, people often mistake them for eagles – which we also have living in the region and are a star attraction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEagles are also a link back to Bonaparte, as it was this bird that he chose to represent his empire, taking cues from the Romans. Golden standards (flag poles mounted by a statue) depicting the French Imperial Eagle were handed out to his regiments for battle. Sadly, the popularity of these animals and their habitat in the summer months is linked to conflict today. However, Bacher says that inconsiderate visitors are leading locals to reconsider mass tourism and find more sustainable approaches to business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Vulture flies over canyon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Since the pandemic, we are experiencing problems during the peak of the season,\" she said. \"The number of visitors, especially French nationals, has greatly risen during the middle of summer, and the infrastructure here is struggling to cope. Large camping cars blocking up the narrow village roads are a real problem, as is illegal parking, camping and littering. We would recommend people to come out of season if they can – things are cheaper, less busy and altogether better for the ecosystem. Coming by public transport would also be good.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA driver's heaven\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMotoring enthusiasts will nevertheless argue that driving remains the best way to experience the Route Napoleon, with the modern stretch of tarmac – rather than the road's imperial history – being the major attraction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It truly has to be the greatest driving road in France,\" explained Richard Pardon, a UK-based automotive photographer who specialises in high-performance vehicles. \"From dramatic corners carved into the cliffside, to open sweeping sections that run through a forest, the Route Napoleon has it all. It's a bucket list drive with 180-degree switchbacks, hairpins, tunnels, bridges and quaint villages ideal for a lunch stop, that offer views out onto deep gorges filled with gleaming water.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It truly has to be the greatest driving road in France","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPardon first visited Route Napoleon in 2015 and was blown away by the gravity-defying road he discovered. He has since made frequent trips down to the South of France to capture dramatic driving pictures for magazines and luxury car manufacturers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I've shot here five times now, but it still never gets old,\" he said. \"The landscape changes from North to South, each vista as beautiful as the rest. Whereas most mountain passes are usually tight and technical, the Route Napoleon flows. It showcases the characteristics of a car, all whilst taking in the stunning scenic views. That's not to say a local in a Fiat Panda won't put your Lamborghini to shame around one of the narrow twisty sections.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Road winds between tough terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a photographer, Pardon usually looks for scenic roads, bathed in good light and with good sightlines, that are quiet enough to work on safely. For him, the Route Napoleon has everything and can showcase a variation of landscape in a short distance, which helps convey the sense of journey through pictures. The good weather also makes it a year-round destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's a particular stretch of road just off Route Napoleon that runs to a small ski resort, and in the summer months, it's almost deserted with long sweeping switchbacks that rise up and over the mountain until you reach a forest. It's ideal for car-to-car photography, so much so that the iconic Aston Martin DB5 versus Ferrari 355 James Bond car chase in GoldenEye was filmed here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, James Bond's creator Ian Fleming was fascinated by the French emperor and frequently referenced Bonaparte and his rival, British general Arthur Wellesley, in his work. Most Bond baddies in fact all suffer from a Napoleonic complex – otherwise known as a desire to rule the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of whether you consider the French ruler a hero or a villain, it's easy to understand why retracing this stretch of road is incredibly revealing about Bonaparte and those who followed him. And whether you come down for the history, the culture, the nature or the tarmac: it's all worth the visit. Just try not to get any ideas about global domination…\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-21T14:46:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Napoleon's gravity-defying 325km road","headlineShort":"Napoleon's gravity-defying 325km road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Road curves through trees","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"44.4690839","longitude":"5.5265578","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Road curves through trees","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Route Napoleon gives visitors the chance to put themselves in the boots of the emperor, deep dive into Gallic culture and unlock the beauty of unspoiled natural landscapes.","summaryShort":"It once changed the course of European history forever","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-20T20:12:38.612416Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1cff2f4-de15-4711-8dc5-6b4d52a18812","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:41.749477Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484357},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","_id":"621e444f45ceed64b8500056","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The discovery of two new Australian glider species is a boon for biodiversity yet presents a serious challenge for conservation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Its super long fluffy tail gave it away","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The first time I saw one, I was leading a night walk and we heard this big crash in the eucalyptus trees above us,\" said Wendy Bithell of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisionwalks.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVision Walks Eco-Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as we strapped on night vision goggles, the nature guide's secret weapon for spotting nocturnal critters in the rainforests of northern New South Wales (NSW).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We looked up and its super long fluffy tail gave it away,\" added Bithell. \"They're beautiful creatures to look at, but they're not as graceful as you'd think they might be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA solitary, tree-dwelling marsupial with big furry ears, large round eyes and a feather boa-like tail that lives in the eucalypt forests of eastern Australia, the greater glider is often described as a clumsy flying possum. Only cuter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're like living Muppets,\" Australian National University (ANU) ecologist Dr Kara Youngentob told me via Zoom. \"Most people are more familiar with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20150909-amazing-film-of-flying-possum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esugar gliders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E [a small, sweet-toothed glider species heavily exploited in the illicit international pet trade] – think of the greater glider as their bigger, lazier, fluffier cousin.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe greater glider is the only member of the ringtail possum family that doesn't have a grippy prehensile tail. But it is also unique from its relatives in that it dines exclusively on eucalyptus leaves (like koalas) and has gliding membranes that run only from its elbows to its ankles (unlike its cousins, which have membranes stretching to their forepaws). This allows them to perform more controlled glides and gives them something of a superhero quality in flight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"When they jump, they put their little arms out in front of them like Wonder Woman,\" said Youngentob. Similar to the comic book heroine, the species can also glide long distances – up to 100m between the treetops, where it dens in tree hollows that can take more than a century to form.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThree times cuter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPreviously thought to range from the steamy tropical rainforests of Far North Queensland down to the cool, wet forests of Victoria's Central Highlands, a territory spanning some 3,000km, the greater glider was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-76364-z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecently proven\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to be three distinct species, with the nocturnal marsupials getting smaller the further north they live.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe size variations were noted when greater gliders were first described to science in the 1800s (by Scottish scientific writer Robert Kerr in a 1792 paper building on the work of Swedish botanist and \"father of modern taxonomy\" Carl von Linné), but it was assumed the specimens were one species (\u003Cem\u003EPetauroides volans\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) that grew bigger at lower latitudes to conserve heat, a theory known as Bergmann's rule.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames Cook University researcher Denise McGregor, who led the study published in November 2020, tested this theory as part of her PhD, with genetic material taken from greater gliders in northern Queensland (which grow to the size of a small ringtail possum) proving that it was a different species to the cat-sized southern species found south of the Tropic of Capricorn (which the scientific name name, \u003Cem\u003EPetauroids volans\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, now refers to. But that wasn’t the only discovery she’d make.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"By then another group – Jackson and Groves – had published a book about gliding mammals [Taxonomy of Australian Mammals (2015)] in which they proposed that there were three separate species,\" said McGregor. \"So, I thought I'd better take some samples from where they thought the third species lived [in mid-Queensland, west of Mackay up to Townsville], and sure enough we came back with three species.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELittle is known about the central species (\u003Cem\u003EPetauroides armillatus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and the northern species (\u003Cem\u003EPerauroides minor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E; whose territory is thought to extend to just north of Cairns), with the thrill of the discovery tempered by its implications for conserving the species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEnvironmental threats\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile understanding the ecology of a species is important for the development of conservation management, said Youngentob, who co-authored the study, dividing the greater glider into three species means there are fewer of them left to protect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We already had the new species data before \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50951043\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elast summer's bushfires\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so when the entire southern greater glider habitat was on fire, we were just petrified because we knew the species didn't exist anywhere else,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet according to long-term surveys conducted by ANU Professor David Lindenmayer, Australia's foremost greater glider expert, southern populations had already plummeted by 80% in some areas before the bushfires. This loss is largely attributed to logging, which has wiped out vast swaths of hollow-bearing trees that greater gliders rely on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwf.org.au\u002Fnews\u002Fnews\u002F2020\u002Fdestruction-of-greater-glider-habitat-jumped-by-52-after-vulnerable-listing#gs.mgrqt7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2020 World Wildlife Fund report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E revealed that destruction of greater glider habitat increased by 52% in NSW and Queensland after the species was listed as vulnerable to extinction by the federal government in 2016.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Logging doesn't only destroy greater glider habitat,\" said Lindenmayer. \"It also makes bushfires burn hotter and changes the composition of the landscape to less palatable food trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EClimate change, too, is impacting the species, with rising night-time temperatures – Sydney recorded its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-55118406\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehottest November night on record\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020 – thought to cause greater gliders to lose their appetite, much like humans do in hot weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Greater gliders maintain minimal fat stores so they can't survive more than a few days without eating,\" explained Youngentob. \"In some places, the hotter nights are probably killing these animals.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180410-the-strange-story-of-australias-wild-camel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange animal roaming Australia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 200-million-year-old 'dinosaur tree'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESaving the greater glider\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe bushfires have prompted the federal government to reconsider the conservation status of the greater glider, but researchers argue that more action is needed to protect the species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"If we don't stop clearing thousands of hectares of land for coal mining and logging thousands of hectares of forests to generate woodchips, the greater glider is going to become the next koala,\" said Lindenmayer, referring to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-53231348#:~:text=Koalas%20will%20be%20extinct%20in,climatic%20events%20in%20recent%20years.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eextinction crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E now faced by the iconic marsupial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, wildlife organisations along Australia's eastern seaboard are ramping up efforts to save the species. In mid-2020, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlife.org.au\u002Fqueensland-glider-network\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQueensland Glider Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an arm of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlife.org.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWildlife Preservation Society of Queensland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, launched a greater glider monitoring project in the state's south-east to help promote conservation awareness. South of the border, conservationists are currently campaigning against planned logging in several northern NSW glider habitats including Bungabbee State Forest north of Casino, where a recent survey organised by the North East Forest Alliance (NEFA) also revealed the previously unknown presence of two vulnerable animals – the long-nosed potoroo and marbled frogmouth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"We could potentially lose another glider species before we even know it exists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The area has already been denuded of large hollow-bearing trees so the greater glider population will be in big trouble if they lose what's left,\" said NEFA co-founder Dailan Pugh, whose environmental activism in the 1990s led to the creation of the state's first endangered fauna species legislation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Victoria, conservationists applauded the setting aside of 96,000 hectares of forests in 2019 to help protect greater gliders. But by the new year, around half of the protection area had been decimated by bushfires.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We could potentially lose another glider species before we even know it exists,\" said McGregor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe new \"dark\" tourism?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnly active after dark, generally sticking to the treetops and tending to avoid residential areas where larger nocturnal critters such as brushtail possums outcompete them for resources, greater gliders can take some effort to spot. This goes some way to explain why greater glider tourism hasn’t exactly taken off (yet). But seeking out an opportunity to spot these mysterious creatures could contribute to their conservation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Wildlife Preservation Society of Queensland runs periodic greater glider spotlighting tours, as does Melbourne-based conservation organisation \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.greeningaustralia.org.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreening Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with associated costs supporting various conservation programmes. More regular tours are offered by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcarnarvongorgeecotours.com\u002Fcarnarvon-gorge-guided-tours\u002Fcarnarvon-night-safari\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarnarvon Gorge Eco Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in central QLD and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faunagraphic.com.au\u002FTours\u002FNocturnalWildlifeTours\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFaunagraphic Wildlife Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the state's south-east. Go during breeding season (which McGregor thinks may vary between species), and you might be lucky enough to spot a couple intertwining their tails in courtship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The southern species comes in different colours, so you often get this cool contrast if you have a light one and a dark one wrapped together,\" said Youngentob.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn my own night vision walk, I spy long-nosed bandicoots, pademelons, short-eared possums, bush rats and even a huge rough-scaled snake. But incisions on a tree trunk made by a sap-eating sugar glider is the closest I get to spotting a greater glider, which were once a common feature of my local rainforests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It has been quite a while now since I've seen one,\" Bithell rued, \"but when we do, it's a relief to know that they're still out there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-18T20:15:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Australia's charismatic glider marsupial","headlineShort":"Australia's remarkable animal discovery","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The discovery of two new Australian glider species is a boon for biodiversity yet presents a serious challenge for conservation.","summaryShort":"\"They're like living Muppets\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:01:50.499522Z","entity":"article","guid":"54625dce-bdfe-40c6-8146-7932b96a5cf7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:22:58.144752Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484358},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6e328184","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkatie-dundas"],"bodyIntro":"Each year, the small South Australian town of Whyalla becomes home to one of the most spectacular underwater events: the spawning of the giant Australian cuttlefish.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"First time you go and put your head under the water and see hundreds and hundreds of cuttlefish in this one little area, it just looks like a chaotic kaleidoscope. What the hell is going on here?\" said Tony Bramley. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhyalladivingservices.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhyalla Diving Services\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a decades-long advocate for the Giant Australian cuttlefish, Bramley has observed the frenzied and colourful cuttlefish mating that occurs in South Australia's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parks.sa.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fupper-spencer-gulf-marine-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUpper Spencer Marine Gulf Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for years. Once only of interest to fishermen and local scuba divers – who would spread the word to one another that \"the cuttles are in\" – this marine phenomenon now attracts tourists and researchers from across the world. It's a welcome boost to the small steelworks town of Whyalla, on South Australia's Eyre Peninsula. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA type of marine invertebrate closely related to the octopus, cuttlefish are whip-smart molluscs that can change colour and texture instantly. They've been known to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002F12856785\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolve puzzles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and can hypnotise their prey by turning their bodies into strobe lights, rapidly pulsing colour through their skin to distract and stun an unsuspecting crab or fish. Their camouflage skills put chameleons to shame, and have even attracted the attention of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedaily.com\u002Freleases\u002F2018\u002F02\u002F180227111654.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS military\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who have researched the colour-changing abilities of cuttlefish with the hopes of replicating their techniques for army use. If that's not unusual enough, their mating behaviours are strange, to say the least.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom May to September each year, hundreds of thousands of Giant Australian cuttlefish gather in the waters just off Point Lowly, in the Upper Spencer Gulf, for the sole purpose of mating. Welcome to nature's most flamboyant underwater sex show.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy4n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Lighthouse at Point Lowly, Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe largest cuttlefish in the world are found throughout southern Australian waters, but only in Whyalla do they gather in high numbers for mating. \"An estimate of cuttlefish numbers on the breeding aggregation for 2020 was 247,000, the highest on record,\" said Professor Bronwyn M Gillanders, a prominent cuttlefish researcher and Head of School, Biological Sciences at the University of Adelaide. \"This number is reported but we know that it's likely an underestimate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Gillanders, Whyalla attracts cuttlefish due to its unique marine landscape, with the Upper Spencer Gulf offering plenty of rocky ledges that the females use to lay their eggs. While cuttlefish mate elsewhere, the Spencer Gulf is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\"\u003Elargest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\"\u003E-\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eknown aggregation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the planet – there's nowhere else in the world where swimmers can observe such spectacular and strange mating behaviours en masse, including pulsating colour changes and males disguising themselves as females. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo-one ever said finding a partner was easy – and these cuttlefish are single and ready to mingle – but first, these unusual creatures need to get here. Bramley explained that some of the cuttlefish have been tagged, revealing that some are travelling from at least 65km south of the town and others 35km to the north to get to the breeding grounds in the Upper Spencer Gulf. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's reef only 9% visit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArriving in Whyalla, it's easy to observe the cuttlefish as either a snorkeller or diver, with the cephalopods found in just 2-6m of water, right off the shore. While the water is calm, it's not warm. \"You've got to really dress for the occasion,\" laughed Bramley. With ocean temperatures hovering around 10-16C, I came prepared with a thick wetsuit, hood, gloves and booties. Even still, the chill hit me like a ton of bricks – but once I was in the water, I had a front-row ticket to the most incredible show in town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy28"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce my eyes adjusted underwater, I realised I was surrounded by cuttlefish – and they didn't seem bothered in the slightest to have a human watching their most intimate moments. With vibrantly pulsating rainbows of purple, orange, turquoise and pink and tentacles everywhere, it took me some time to make sense of this cephalopod foreplay, as cuttlefish have more than a few mating tricks up their tentacles. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn an environment where males can outnumber females 10 to one, competition is fierce to pass on one's genes. In most species, size matters: large, aggressive males fight off their rivals to win the chance to mate. This is seen in cuttlefish as well, with large males known to wrestle one another for dominance in the presence of a female. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They've figured out that if you want to impress a lover, you need to think outside the box","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor any other species, this means the smaller males miss out. But cuttlefish aren't like any other animal. They've figured out that if you want to impress a lover, you need to think outside the box.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The smaller males have a conundrum on their hands, because they know they can't win against these much larger males,\" explained Sarah McAnulty, squid biologist at the University of Connecticut. \"They have devised an alternate approach – masquerading as females to avoid the battle altogether.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn perhaps the most fascinating mating behaviour of any species, smaller males can fade their translucent colouring and switch to the mottled maroons and whites of a female, before tucking their billowy arms up into their bodies. This makes them appear female, and as the burly males are busy fighting it out and leaving their potential partner unguarded, these \"little sneakers\", as Bramley affectionately called them,\" dart past them to get access to the female and then rapidly change their colouring back to male. A win for the clever underdog.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy0x"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish and diver at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ensuing awkward-looking, head-to-head spectacle – if she decides to mate – might make you wonder if the cuttlefish have been taking notes from an adult film. During the tangled twist of tentacles, the cuttlefish connect and the male deposits his sperm packet in the female's mouth, using a specially designed arm known as the hectocotylus. The female then holds onto the sperm until she's ready to lay her eggs. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's the ultimate rebuttal to putting all your eggs in one basket","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe female mates with multiple males and can use a mix of different sperm deposits for her clutch. \"It's the ultimate rebuttal to putting all your eggs in one basket,\" said McAnulty. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the females prefer the smaller males over their beefy counterparts, according to McAnulty, indicating they're selecting brains over brawn. \"Studies have even shown that when the females go to lay their eggs, they will give a larger proportion of fatherhood to those sneaky males,\" she said. \"So, when we ask ourselves how those darn cephalopods got so smart? Well, they're sexually selecting for it!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile there's no shortage of X-rated action under the water, it hasn't always been that way. In recent decades, overfishing in the region reduced the local cuttlefish population and spurred locals to take action. This led to the creation of a fishing exclusion zone in 2013 along the Upper Spencer Gulf during mating season. In the late 1990s, aggregation numbers were at their lowest, with Bramley estimating only 30,000-40,000 cuttlefish were present in 1999. In a twist of fate, the decline of the cuttlefish population attracted media attention. Once word got out about Whyalla's incredible cephalopods, the region slowly started to attract divers and tourists during the early 2000s, keen to observe what was then a relatively unknown marine phenomenon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfxyd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the last several years, peak cuttlefish season has resulted in hotels and restaurants enjoying full capacity, and the injection of tourism funds has been a welcome boost to an economy mainly reliant on steel production. While there's been talk of building more hotels to handle an influx of tourists, cuttlefish season only lasts three to four months – so how do tourism operators sustain themselves during the rest of the year?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne solution the town hopes will help is improved infrastructure, with a $4m \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.premier.sa.gov.au\u002Fnews\u002Fmedia-releases\u002Fnews\u002Fincreased-protection-for-giant-australian-cuttlefish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECuttlefish Sanctuary Tourism and Conservation Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E grant announced in 2021. This will help the town manage additional visitors each season and promote Whyalla as a nature tourism destination with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.regions.sa.gov.au\u002Fprojects\u002Fxlgipp-projects\u002Fcuttlefish-coast-sanctuary-tourism-and-conservation-project-local-government-infrastructure-partnership-program\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehelp of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E improved beach access and walking paths, better signage, the addition of more native vegetation and increased protection for the area's delicate ecosystems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile cuttlefish tourism in Whyalla is only in its second decade, the city hopes it will become a viable long-term income source. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for the cuttlefish themselves, we can only hope they continue their ostentatious, sexy shenanigans, proving that life can be as colourful and wild as you want it to be. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENature's Curiosities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-23T22:55:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Australia's X-rated underwater show","headlineShort":"Australia's X-rated underwater show","image":["p0bqfy8z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-33.033333","longitude":"137.566666","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqfxyd"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Each year, the small South Australian town of Whyalla becomes home to one of the most spectacular underwater events: the spawning of the giant Australian cuttlefish.","summaryShort":"Nowhere else in the world can you observe such strange mating behaviour en masse","tag":["tag\u002Fdiving","tag\u002Fwildlife"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-22T21:15:42.782239Z","entity":"article","guid":"913a8cfd-f852-4fa4-8f9c-dc3f3c0236b7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:23.588521Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484357}},"tags":{"tag\u002Farts-architecture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Farts-architecture","_id":"621e44a545ceed0cc7590d5b","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about arts and architecture from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Arts & Architecture","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8ddc5269-0bdf-4120-a923-658aa981eba6","id":"tag\u002Farts-architecture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:00:24.743773Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Farts-architecture","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484344},"tag\u002Fwellness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fwellness","_id":"621e44a745ceed1be752347e","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC's latest wellness stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Wellness","creationDateTime":"2020-02-28T21:13:24.535072Z","entity":"tag","guid":"13ba4b04-b3a2-4dee-8a3d-49c39c8fa6f4","id":"tag\u002Fwellness","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T00:00:47.733443Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fwellness","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484331},"tag\u002Fsustainability":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsustainability","_id":"621e44a645ceed120c5e6f03","assetImage":null,"description":"BBC Travel’s latest sustainability stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Sustainability","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T11:15:28.33822Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8c7980e9-39cc-4b2b-a9ae-fac193a4b669","id":"tag\u002Fsustainability","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:53:54.010563Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fsustainability","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484332},"tag\u002Fisland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fisland","_id":"621e44a745ceed1be752347f","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Island","creationDateTime":"2015-08-31T16:14:05.26893Z","entity":"tag","guid":"55ef39cc-8551-44c9-bea9-ad5bf9e5f43a","id":"tag\u002Fisland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:28:56.76694Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fisland","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484345},"tag\u002Feco-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Feco-tourism","_id":"621e449d45ceed1c787716b2","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest eco-tourism stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Eco-tourism","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"5d87d5b2-58ba-422e-a643-264769cfffbe","id":"tag\u002Feco-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:16:10.773625Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Feco-tourism","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484333},"tag\u002Fsnow-skiing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsnow-skiing","_id":"621e44a845ceed17c90439c4","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about skiing destinations from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Snow & Skiing","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d21187a2-1ce7-4242-9d87-3db1a29d0e8e","id":"tag\u002Fsnow-skiing","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:50:40.29253Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fsnow-skiing","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484333},"tag\u002Fhistory":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhistory","_id":"621e44a645ceed22da185df9","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"History","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6832b6dc-e349-43ec-af00-31e2e8025190","id":"tag\u002Fhistory","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:25:17.967338Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhistory","cacheLastUpdated":1647587484348},"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"621e44a345ceed22c376b1f1","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & 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