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Dynamic rope - Wikipedia

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class="vector-toc-numb">2</span> <span>Length and diameters</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Length_and_diameters-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Standards_and_testing" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Standards_and_testing"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3</span> <span>Standards and testing</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Standards_and_testing-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Rope_care_and_maintenance" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Rope_care_and_maintenance"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4</span> <span>Rope care and maintenance</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Rope_care_and_maintenance-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-See_also" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 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<div id="mw-content-text" class="mw-body-content"><div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="en" dir="ltr"><div class="shortdescription nomobile noexcerpt noprint searchaux" style="display:none">Rope designed to stretch under load</div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1251242444">.mw-parser-output .ambox{border:1px solid #a2a9b1;border-left:10px solid #36c;background-color:#fbfbfb;box-sizing:border-box}.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+style+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+link+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+style+.ambox,.mw-parser-output .ambox+.mw-empty-elt+link+link+.ambox{margin-top:-1px}html body.mediawiki .mw-parser-output .ambox.mbox-small-left{margin:4px 1em 4px 0;overflow:hidden;width:238px;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:88%;line-height:1.25em}.mw-parser-output .ambox-speedy{border-left:10px solid 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Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.<br /><small><span class="plainlinks"><i>Find sources:</i>&#160;<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&amp;q=%22Dynamic+rope%22">"Dynamic rope"</a>&#160;–&#160;<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&amp;q=%22Dynamic+rope%22+-wikipedia&amp;tbs=ar:1">news</a>&#160;<b>·</b> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.google.com/search?&amp;q=%22Dynamic+rope%22&amp;tbs=bkt:s&amp;tbm=bks">newspapers</a>&#160;<b>·</b> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&amp;q=%22Dynamic+rope%22+-wikipedia">books</a>&#160;<b>·</b> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Dynamic+rope%22">scholar</a>&#160;<b>·</b> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Dynamic+rope%22&amp;acc=on&amp;wc=on">JSTOR</a></span></small></span> <span class="date-container"><i>(<span class="date">January 2011</span>)</i></span><span class="hide-when-compact"><i> (<small><a href="/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal" title="Help:Maintenance template removal">Learn how and when to remove this message</a></small>)</i></span></div></td></tr></tbody></table><figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg/240px-Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg" decoding="async" width="240" height="240" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg/360px-Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg/480px-Kernmantle_climbing_rope_dynamic_Sterling_10.7mm_sheath_opened.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1600" data-file-height="1600" /></a><figcaption>Internal structure of 10.7mm dynamic <a href="/wiki/Kernmantle_rope" title="Kernmantle rope">kernmantle climbing rope</a></figcaption></figure> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output 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.mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle{background:transparent!important}html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle a{color:var(--color-progressive)!important}}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .sidebar{display:none!important}}</style><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><table class="sidebar nomobile nowraplinks" style="width:18.0em;padding:0;font-size:95%;line-height:1.3em;"><tbody><tr><td class="sidebar-pretitle">Part of <a href="/wiki/Category:Climbing" title="Category:Climbing">a series</a> on</td></tr><tr><th class="sidebar-title-with-pretitle"><a href="/wiki/Climbing" title="Climbing">Climbing</a></th></tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Lists</th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_climbers_and_mountaineers" title="List of climbers and mountaineers">Climbers</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Piolet_d%27Or" class="mw-redirect" title="Piolet d&#39;Or">Piolet d'Or winners</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ranking_of_career_IFSC_victories_by_climber" title="Ranking of career IFSC victories by climber">IFSC victories</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_equipment" title="Climbing equipment">Equipment</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_climbing_knots" title="List of climbing knots">Knots</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_rock_climbing" title="History of rock climbing">Historical events</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing" title="List of grade milestones in rock climbing">Grade milestones</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Eight-thousander" title="Eight-thousander">Eight-thousanders</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms" title="Glossary of climbing terms">Terminology</a></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Types of <a href="/wiki/Rock_climbing" title="Rock climbing">rock climbing</a></th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Aid_climbing" title="Aid climbing">Aid</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Big_wall_climbing" title="Big wall climbing">Big wall</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Multi-pitch_climbing" title="Multi-pitch climbing">Multi-pitch</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bouldering" title="Bouldering">Bouldering</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bouldering#Highball_bouldering" title="Bouldering">Highball</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Competition_climbing" title="Competition climbing">Competition</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Speed_climbing" title="Speed climbing">Speed</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Free_climbing" title="Free climbing">Free</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Sport_climbing" title="Sport climbing">Sport</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traditional_climbing" title="Traditional climbing">Traditional</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Solo_climbing" title="Solo climbing">Solo</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Free_solo_climbing" title="Free solo climbing">Free solo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Deep-water_soloing" title="Deep-water soloing">Deep-water solo</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rope_solo_climbing" title="Rope solo climbing">Rope solo</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Top_rope_climbing" title="Top rope climbing">Top roping</a></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Types of <a href="/wiki/Mountaineering" title="Mountaineering">mountaineering</a></th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Alpine_climbing" title="Alpine climbing">Alpine</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Mixed_climbing" title="Mixed climbing">Mixed</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Via_ferrata" title="Via ferrata">Via ferrata</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Eight-thousander" title="Eight-thousander">Himalayan</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Alpine_style" class="mw-redirect" title="Alpine style">Alpine style</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Expedition_style" class="mw-redirect" title="Expedition style">Expedition style</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ice_climbing" title="Ice climbing">Ice</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Dry-tooling" title="Dry-tooling">Dry-tooling</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Scrambling" title="Scrambling">Scrambling</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Hillwalking" class="mw-redirect" title="Hillwalking">Hillwalking</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Other types</th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Buildering" title="Buildering">Buildering</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Canyoning" title="Canyoning">Canyoning</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Crane_climbing" title="Crane climbing">Crane</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Grass_climbing" title="Grass climbing">Grass</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rope_access" title="Rope access">Commercial</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Parkour" title="Parkour">Parkour</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pole_climbing" title="Pole climbing">Pole</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rock_hopping" class="mw-redirect" title="Rock hopping">Rock hopping</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rooftopping" title="Rooftopping">Rooftopping</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Roof_and_tunnel_hacking" title="Roof and tunnel hacking">Roof hacking</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rope_climbing" title="Rope climbing">Rope</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Slide_Climbing" class="mw-redirect" title="Slide Climbing">Slide</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tree_climbing" title="Tree climbing">Tree</a></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Key actions</th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Abseiling" title="Abseiling">Abseiling</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Belaying" title="Belaying">Belaying</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lead_climbing" title="Lead climbing">Leading</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)" title="Redpoint (climbing)">Redpointing</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jumaring" class="mw-redirect" title="Jumaring">Jumaring</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Self_rescue_(climbing)" title="Self rescue (climbing)">Self rescuing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Simul_climbing" class="mw-redirect" title="Simul climbing">Simul climbing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Traverse_(climbing)" title="Traverse (climbing)">Traversing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_technique" title="Climbing technique">Techniques</a></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><th class="sidebar-heading" style="background:#ddddff;padding-bottom:0.2em;"> Key terms</th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content"> <div class="hlist"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Anchor_(climbing)" title="Anchor (climbing)">Anchor</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/First_ascent" title="First ascent">First ascent</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/First_free_ascent" class="mw-redirect" title="First free ascent">FFA</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/First_female_free_ascent" class="mw-redirect" title="First female free ascent">FFFA</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Grade_(climbing)" title="Grade (climbing)">Grade</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_route" title="Climbing route">Route</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Beta_(climbing)" title="Beta (climbing)">Beta</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_guidebook" title="Climbing guidebook">Guide</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pitch_(climbing)" title="Pitch (climbing)">Pitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Crack_climbing" title="Crack climbing">Crack</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Face_climbing" title="Face climbing">Face</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Overhang_(climbing)" title="Overhang (climbing)">Overhang</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Slab_climbing" title="Slab climbing">Slab</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td> </tr><tr><td class="sidebar-navbar"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239400231">.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:inline;font-size:88%;font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .navbar-collapse{float:left;text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .navbar-boxtext{word-spacing:0}.mw-parser-output .navbar ul{display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;line-height:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::before{margin-right:-0.125em;content:"[ "}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::after{margin-left:-0.125em;content:" ]"}.mw-parser-output .navbar li{word-spacing:-0.125em}.mw-parser-output .navbar a>span,.mw-parser-output .navbar a>abbr{text-decoration:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-mini abbr{font-variant:small-caps;border-bottom:none;text-decoration:none;cursor:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-full{font-size:114%;margin:0 7em}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-mini{font-size:114%;margin:0 4em}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Climbing_sidebar" title="Template:Climbing sidebar"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Climbing_sidebar" title="Template talk:Climbing sidebar"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Climbing_sidebar" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Climbing sidebar"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div></td></tr></tbody></table> <p>A <b>dynamic rope</b> is a specially constructed, somewhat <a href="/wiki/Elasticity_(physics)" title="Elasticity (physics)">elastic</a> <a href="/wiki/Rope" title="Rope">rope</a> used primarily in <a href="/wiki/Rock_climbing" title="Rock climbing">rock climbing</a>, <a href="/wiki/Ice_climbing" title="Ice climbing">ice climbing</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Mountaineering" title="Mountaineering">mountaineering</a>. This elasticity, or stretch, is the property that makes the rope <a href="/wiki/Dynamics_(mechanics)" class="mw-redirect" title="Dynamics (mechanics)">dynamic</a>—in contrast to a <a href="/wiki/Static_rope" title="Static rope">static rope</a> that has only slight <a href="/wiki/Deformation_(physics)#Stretch_ratio" title="Deformation (physics)">elongation</a> under load. Greater elasticity allows a dynamic rope to more slowly absorb the energy of a sudden load, such from <a href="/wiki/Fall_arrest" title="Fall arrest">arresting a climber's fall</a>, by reducing the peak force on the rope and thus the probability of the rope's catastrophic failure. A <a href="/wiki/Kernmantle_rope" title="Kernmantle rope">kernmantle rope</a> is the most common type of dynamic rope now used. Since 1945, <a href="/wiki/Nylon" title="Nylon">nylon</a> has, because of its superior durability and strength, replaced all natural materials in climbing rope. </p> <meta property="mw:PageProp/toc" /> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Rope_types">Rope types</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=1" title="Edit section: Rope types"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Dynamic climbing ropes are classified into three categories: Single ropes, twin ropes, and half ropes (also referred to as 'double ropes'). </p> <ul><li>Single ropes are designed to be used alone, and are by far the most common, and used for top-roping, <a href="/wiki/Sport_climbing" title="Sport climbing">sport climbing</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Trad_climbing" class="mw-redirect" title="Trad climbing">trad climbing</a>.</li> <li>Twin and half ropes are used for lead climbing, and are designed to be used as a pair - they are not strong enough to be safely used on just a single strand, and they are tested to different standards as a single rope. <ul><li>Twin ropes are used by treating the pair of ropes as a single rope, clipping both ropes through the same carabiner at each piece of <a href="/wiki/Climbing_protection" class="mw-redirect" title="Climbing protection">protection</a>.</li> <li>Half ropes are also used as a pair, but only one rope is clipped through each piece of protection- the climber alternates which rope is clipped through each piece. On wandering routes where protection is placed far apart on either side, half ropes can significantly reduce rope drag.</li></ul></li></ul> <p>Both twin and half ropes have the advantage of redundancy, as well as allowing a rappel along the full length of the climbing rope (by tying both ropes together), so that climbers can descend from a long multipitch route with fewer <a href="/wiki/Abseiling" title="Abseiling">rappels</a> than with a single rope. Some ropes are 'triple rated', meeting the standards for all three rope types, so they can be used in each configuration. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Length_and_diameters">Length and diameters</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=2" title="Edit section: Length and diameters"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Dynamic ropes used for rock climbing come in a variety of lengths and diameters, with the most common lengths being 50 metres (164.0&#160;ft), 60 metres (200&#160;ft), 70 metres (230&#160;ft). Lengths will vary depending on rope maintenance and age, and there are even ropes as long as 80 meters for specialized ascents on routes that would normally require a <a href="/wiki/Multi-pitch_climbing" title="Multi-pitch climbing">multi-pitch climbing</a> attempt due to being only slightly longer than a standard rope length. </p><p>Rope diameters are generally between 8.3mm and 11.5mm, with the different diameters used for slightly different purposes. Sport and multi-pitch trad climbers often value thinner ropes because they are lighter, and have less rope drag. Thinner ropes also run more smoothly through <a href="/wiki/Belay" class="mw-redirect" title="Belay">belay</a> devices, especially assisted braking devices or 'tube-style' devices operated in 'guide mode', which can be tedious to pull thicker or stiffer rope through. Lighter, thinner ropes, however, have less strength than a thicker rope and will sustain fewer hard falls. Note that some belay devices are better suited for different rope diameters. This is particularly relevant with <a href="/wiki/Belay_device#Assisted_braking" title="Belay device">assisted braking</a> devices, such as the Petzl <a href="/wiki/Grigri_(climbing)" class="mw-redirect" title="Grigri (climbing)">Grigri</a> (which, for example, works best with a 9.4-10.3 mm thick line<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-1"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup>) or the Faders SUM. Users must make sure to read the instructions for the device carefully to ensure safety and recognize any limitations to rope diameter. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Standards_and_testing">Standards and testing</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=3" title="Edit section: Standards and testing"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>All modern rock climbing dynamic ropes rated by the <a href="/wiki/UIAA" class="mw-redirect" title="UIAA">UIAA</a> must meet certain standards and pass testing for Construction, Sheath Slippage, Static Elongation, Impact Force on first fall, and Number of falls held.<sup id="cite_ref-sterling_2-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-sterling-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The force rating indicates the maximum amount of force the rope can deliver to a falling climber, measured in <a href="/wiki/Kilonewtons" class="mw-redirect" title="Kilonewtons">kilonewtons</a> (kN), under test conditions designed to simulate a hard fall; typical climbing ropes range from 9kN up to an Arborist's 24kN. The force rating is often misunderstood by climbers, because all other climbing gear is rated by the breaking strength (in kN) of the material. Whereas a higher rating (indicating greater strength) is desired for other gear, for dynamic ropes a lower rating is generally desired, as this indicates it would give a 'soft catch' that is less likely to injure the climber or break or dislodge <a href="/wiki/Climbing_protection" class="mw-redirect" title="Climbing protection">protection</a> or anchors.<sup id="cite_ref-Alpine_Exposures_3-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Alpine_Exposures-3"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Unlike most climbing equipment, dynamic ropes do not have a rated tensile breaking strength. Instead, the strength of a rope is tested by the number of standard test falls a rope can sustain before breaking. The test falls use an 80&#160;kg weight for single ropes (55&#160;kg for half ropes), and a <a href="/wiki/Fall_factor" title="Fall factor">fall factor</a> of 1.7 (4 meter fall on 2.3 meters of rope). This tests simulates a very hard fall that would rarely occur. When climbing, it is possible to produce a fall factor as high as 2, however, real-world climbing situations include additional shock absorbing elements which are not included in the test standard, such as the body of both the climber and belayer, elasticity of their harnesses and anchor materials, and friction between the rope and the belay device, and any protection pieces.<sup id="cite_ref-sterling_2-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-sterling-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-mammut_4-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-mammut-4"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Single ropes must sustain at least 5 such falls before breaking, and a rope that can sustain more than 9 falls is considered a 'multifall' rope.<sup id="cite_ref-mammut_4-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-mammut-4"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> In practice, climbing ropes rarely if ever break due to a fall alone- all documented rope failures involve the rope being cut or damaged, for example by abrasion against a sharp rock edge.<sup id="cite_ref-sterling_2-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-sterling-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Ropes are especially vulnerable to being cut while they are weighted with the body of the climber, and moving over a sharp edge (for example if a following climber is resting his weight on the rope, or using the rope for assistance, while swinging or traversing under a roof, while being belayed from above). In general, thicker ropes will be stronger and more durable, and have a higher fall rating. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Rope_care_and_maintenance">Rope care and maintenance</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=4" title="Edit section: Rope care and maintenance"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Modern ropes are made from <a href="/wiki/Nylon" title="Nylon">nylon</a> and don't require a great deal of maintenance. Ropes that are frequently used are often inspected for cuts, abrasions, or frayed areas; any cut or fraying that passes into the core of the rope is cause for concern. Ropes can also be washed to clean them of any extensive dirt or grime. Ropes must also be kept away from chemicals or seawater which may damage them, or stored for long periods in direct sunlight which can cause UV damage over time.<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Every fall lessens the amount of impact a rope can later absorb, and hard falls can seriously compromise the strength of a rope, without showing obvious signs of wear. One definition of a 'hard fall' is a long fall (&gt; 10–15 meters) with a <a href="/wiki/Fall_factor" title="Fall factor">fall factor</a> greater than one. Manufacturers often recommended that ropes be retired if they sustain an extremely hard fall, even if they do not show outward signs of wear.<sup id="cite_ref-sterling_2-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-sterling-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-mammut_4-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-mammut-4"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-mammut_manual_6-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-mammut_manual-6"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="See_also">See also</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=5" title="Edit section: See also"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_equipment" title="Climbing equipment">Climbing equipment</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Climbing_rope" title="Climbing rope">Climbing rope</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fall_factor" title="Fall factor">Fall factor</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Static_rope" title="Static rope">Static rope</a></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Dynamic_rope&amp;action=edit&amp;section=6" title="Edit section: References"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <dl><dt>Notes</dt></dl> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-1">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-devices--descenders/GRIGRI-2">"Sport - Petzl USA"</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.btitle=Sport+-+Petzl+USA&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.petzl.com%2FUS%2Fen%2FSport%2FBelay-devices--descenders%2FGRIGRI-2&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ADynamic+rope" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-sterling-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-sterling_2-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-sterling_2-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-sterling_2-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-sterling_2-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text">Sterling Rope Guide to Rope Engineering, Design, and Use <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="http://www.sterlingrope.com/media/document/techmanual.pdf">[1]</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20130810112708/http://www.sterlingrope.com/media/document/techmanual.pdf">Archived</a> 2013-08-10 at the <a href="/wiki/Wayback_Machine" title="Wayback Machine">Wayback Machine</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Alpine_Exposures-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Alpine_Exposures_3-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/faq-climbing-ropes-explained-test-uiaa">Alpine Exposures FAQ- Climbing Ropes explained</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-mammut-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-mammut_4-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-mammut_4-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-mammut_4-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20141112234555/http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_dynamic.html">"Mammut: Standards for dynamic ropes"</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_dynamic.html">the original</a> on 2014-11-12<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2014-11-12</span></span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.btitle=Mammut%3A+Standards+for+dynamic+ropes&amp;rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mammut.ch%2Fen%2Fropes_tests_dynamic.html&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ADynamic+rope" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-5">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.accessropes.com/pages/rope-care/">"Rope care – Looking after your rope"</a>. <i>Access Ropes</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2021-10-21</span></span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.jtitle=Access+Ropes&amp;rft.atitle=Rope+care+%E2%80%93+Looking+after+your+rope&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.accessropes.com%2Fpages%2Frope-care%2F&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ADynamic+rope" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-mammut_manual-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-mammut_manual_6-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150306003054/http://www.mammut.ch/images/Mammut_Seilfibel_E_web_11129.pdf">"Mammut Rope Care Manual"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.mammut.ch/images/Mammut_Seilfibel_E_web_11129.pdf">the original</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span> on 2015-03-06<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2014-11-12</span></span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.btitle=Mammut+Rope+Care+Manual&amp;rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mammut.ch%2Fimages%2FMammut_Seilfibel_E_web_11129.pdf&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ADynamic+rope" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <dl><dt>Sources</dt></dl> <ul><li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20060819140805/http://www.spelean.com.au/BW/TM/BWtechdyn.html">Spelean.com.au</a></li></ul> <!-- NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.canary‐687bc74f68‐pp6b5 Cached time: 20241122142119 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.337 seconds Real time usage: 0.466 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 836/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 37909/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4545/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 9/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 43725/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.196/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6177701/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 --> <!-- Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 416.728 1 -total 27.38% 114.107 1 Template:Reflist 27.18% 113.262 1 Template:Rock_climbing 21.33% 88.878 4 Template:Cite_web 16.45% 68.553 1 Template:Primary_sources 16.29% 67.892 1 Template:Short_description 16.09% 67.071 2 Template:Ambox 8.99% 37.473 2 Template:Pagetype 7.80% 32.501 6 Template:Flatlist 7.63% 31.798 3 Template:Convert --> <!-- Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:6368582:|#|:idhash:canonical and timestamp 20241122142119 and revision id 1255295542. 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