CINXE.COM

<!doctype html> <html lang="en" class="no-js b-pw-1280 b-reith-sans-font b-reith-serif-font b-reith-serif-loaded b-reith-sans-loaded"> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=7YQSqjSh" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("https://www.bbc.com/travel","20220802084757","https://web.archive.org/","web","https://web-static.archive.org/_static/", "1659430077"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=p7PEIJWi" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta data-rh="true" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/><meta data-rh="true" charset="utf-8"/><meta data-rh="true" name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta data-rh="true" name="keywords" content="INDEX"/><meta data-rh="true" name="description" content="The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing."/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:type" content="website"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:width" content="624"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:height" content="351"/><meta data-rh="true" property="fb:pages" content="147105585468223"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:site" content="@bbc_travel"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/> <title data-rh="true">Home - BBC Travel</title> <link data-rh="true" rel="canonical" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><link data-rh="true" rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="180x180" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/travel/apple-touch-icon.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="32x32" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/travel/favicon-32x32.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="16x16" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/travel/favicon-16x16.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="shortcut icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/travel/favicon.ico"/><link data-rh="true" rel="mask-icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/travel/safari-pinned-tab.svg" color="#063d90"/><link data-rh="true" rel="manifest" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/worklife/assets/travel/site.webmanifest"/> <script> window.orb_fig_blocking = true; </script> <script type="text/javascript"> /* IE11 polyfills */ if (!('values' in Object)) { Object.prototype.constructor.values = function(o) { if (typeof o !== 'object') return console.error('not an object') return Object.keys(o).map(function(k) { return o[k] }) } } if (!('find' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.find = function(fn) { for (let i = 0; i < this.length; i += 1) { if (fn.call(this, this[i], i)) return this[i]; } return undefined; } } if (!('includes' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.includes = function(search) { return this.indexOf(search) > -1 } } </script> <script>document.documentElement.className = document.documentElement.className.replace('no-js', '');</script>    <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"> <style> :root { --bbc-font: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; --bbc-font-legacy: Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; } </style> <script nomodule type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/polyfills.js"></script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/css/orbit-v5-ltr.min.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/require.min.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.orbitData = {}; var additionalPageProperties = {}; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_5'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_1'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_3'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_9'] = '1' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_10'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_6'] = '' || null; window.orbitData.userProfileUrl = "https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/userprofile"; window.page = { name: 'travel.page' || null, destination: 'FEATURE_SITES_GNL' || null, producer: 'GNL_TRAVEL' || null, section: '' || null, site: '' || null, contentId: '' || null, contentType: 'index-home' || null, edition: '' || null, additionalProperties: additionalPageProperties }; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.modal = false; </script> <script type="text/javascript">!function(){var t={930:function(t,e,r){function n(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function o(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?n(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){i(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):n(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function i(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}var c=r(382),u=r(19);window.bbcpage=c.init(o({},window.page)),window.page=void 0,window.bbcuser=u.init(window,o({},window.user)),window.user=void 0},382:function(t){function e(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function r(t){for(var r=1;r<arguments.length;r++){var o=null!=arguments[r]?arguments[r]:{};r%2?e(Object(o),!0).forEach((function(e){n(t,e,o[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(o)):e(Object(o)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(o,e))}))}return t}function n(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}t.exports={init:function(t){var e=r({},t);return document.addEventListener("bbc-page-reset",(function(t){var r;t.detail&&t.detail.page&&(r=t.detail.page,e=Object.assign(e,r)),document.dispatchEvent(new Event("bbc-page-updated"))})),{getName:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.name||function(){if("file:"===window.location.protocol)return"local.file";var t=window.location.pathname.replace(/\/$/,"").replace(/^\//,"").replace(/\//g,".");return"".concat(t,".page")}())},getLanguage:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.language)},getDestination:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.destination)},getProducer:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.producer)},getSection:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.section)},getContentType:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentType)},getContentId:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentId)},getReferrer:function(){return Promise.resolve(window.orb&&null!==window.orb.referrer&&void 0!==window.orb.referrer?window.orb.referrer:document.referrer)},getAdditionalProperties:function(){return Promise.resolve(r({},e.additionalProperties))},loadCSS:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){var n=document.createElement("link");n.type="text/css",n.rel="stylesheet",n.onload=function(){e()},n.href=t,document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(n)}))},isModal:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.modal)}}}}},19:function(t,e,r){function n(t){return n="function"==typeof Symbol&&"symbol"==typeof Symbol.iterator?function(t){return typeof t}:function(t){return t&&"function"==typeof Symbol&&t.constructor===Symbol&&t!==Symbol.prototype?"symbol":typeof t},n(t)}function o(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function i(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?o(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){c(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):o(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function c(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}function u(t,e){for(var r=0;r<e.length;r++){var n=e[r];n.enumerable=n.enumerable||!1,n.configurable=!0,"value"in n&&(n.writable=!0),Object.defineProperty(t,n.key,n)}}function a(t,e){if(!(t instanceof e))throw new TypeError("Cannot call a class as a function")}function f(t,e){if(e&&("object"===n(e)||"function"==typeof e))return e;if(void 0!==e)throw new TypeError("Derived constructors may only return object or undefined");return function(t){if(void 0===t)throw new ReferenceError("this hasn't been initialised - super() hasn't been called");return t}(t)}function s(t){var e="function"==typeof Map?new Map:void 0;return s=function(t){if(null===t||(r=t,-1===Function.toString.call(r).indexOf("[native code]")))return t;var r;if("function"!=typeof t)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");if(void 0!==e){if(e.has(t))return e.get(t);e.set(t,n)}function n(){return l(t,arguments,d(this).constructor)}return n.prototype=Object.create(t.prototype,{constructor:{value:n,enumerable:!1,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),h(n,t)},s(t)}function l(t,e,r){return l=p()?Reflect.construct.bind():function(t,e,r){var n=[null];n.push.apply(n,e);var o=new(Function.bind.apply(t,n));return r&&h(o,r.prototype),o},l.apply(null,arguments)}function p(){if("undefined"==typeof Reflect||!Reflect.construct)return!1;if(Reflect.construct.sham)return!1;if("function"==typeof Proxy)return!0;try{return Boolean.prototype.valueOf.call(Reflect.construct(Boolean,[],(function(){}))),!0}catch(t){return!1}}function h(t,e){return h=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf.bind():function(t,e){return t.__proto__=e,t},h(t,e)}function d(t){return d=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.getPrototypeOf.bind():function(t){return t.__proto__||Object.getPrototypeOf(t)},d(t)}var y=r(890).loadModule,v=function(t){!function(t,e){if("function"!=typeof e&&null!==e)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");t.prototype=Object.create(e&&e.prototype,{constructor:{value:t,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),Object.defineProperty(t,"prototype",{writable:!1}),e&&h(t,e)}(s,t);var e,r,n,o,i,c=(e=s,r=p(),function(){var t,n=d(e);if(r){var o=d(this).constructor;t=Reflect.construct(n,arguments,o)}else t=n.apply(this,arguments);return f(this,t)});function s(){return a(this,s),c.apply(this,arguments)}return n=s,o&&u(n.prototype,o),i&&u(n,i),Object.defineProperty(n,"prototype",{writable:!1}),n}(s(Error));t.exports={init:function(t,e){var r,n=i({},e),o=null;function c(){if(["X-Country","X-Ip_is_advertise_combined","X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].every((function(t){return!!n[t]})))return Promise.resolve(n);if(!o){var e=t.location.hostname.endsWith(".com")?"com":"co.uk";o=t.fetch("https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.".concat(e,"/userinfo")).then((function(t){return t.json()}))}return o}function u(t){if(t.status>=200&&t.status<300)return t;var e=new Error(t.statusText);throw e.response=t,e}function a(t){return t.json()}function f(){if(n.ageBand)return Promise.resolve(n);if(!r){if("undefined"==typeof XMLHttpRequest||!("withCredentials"in new XMLHttpRequest))return Promise.resolve(n);r=y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(e){return e.initiateTokenRefresh().then((function(){return t.fetch(t.orbitData.userProfileUrl,{credentials:"include"}).then(u).then(a).then((function(t){return n=i(i({},n),t)}))}))}))}return r}var s={getHashedId:function(){return y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t.getCookieInstance().getHidFromCookie()}))},isSignedIn:function(){return y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t&&t.getCookieInstance().hasCookie()}))},getCountry:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Country"]||"gb"}))},isUKCombined:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"])throw new v("missing isUKCombined from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},canSeeAdverts:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"])throw new v("missing canSeeAdverts from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},getAgeBand:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Age-Band"]?Promise.resolve(t["X-Age-Band"]):s.isSignedIn().then((function(t){if(t)return f().then((function(t){return n["X-Age-Band"]=t["X-Age-Band"],n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0})).catch((function(){return n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0}))}))}))},allowsPerformanceCookies:function(){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("performance")}))},allowsFunctionalCookies:function(){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("personalisation")}))},getCookieValue:function(t){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(e){return e.get(t)}))}};return s},BBCUserError:v}},890:function(t){t.exports={loadModule:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){window.require(t,(function(){e.apply(this,arguments)}),(function(t){r(t)}))}))}}},666:function(t){var e=function(t){"use strict";var e,r=Object.prototype,n=r.hasOwnProperty,o="function"==typeof Symbol?Symbol:{},i=o.iterator||"@@iterator",c=o.asyncIterator||"@@asyncIterator",u=o.toStringTag||"@@toStringTag";function a(t,e,r){return Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}),t[e]}try{a({},"")}catch(t){a=function(t,e,r){return t[e]=r}}function f(t,e,r,n){var o=e&&e.prototype instanceof v?e:v,i=Object.create(o.prototype),c=new k(n||[]);return i._invoke=function(t,e,r){var n=l;return function(o,i){if(n===h)throw new Error("Generator is already running");if(n===d){if("throw"===o)throw i;return C()}for(r.method=o,r.arg=i;;){var c=r.delegate;if(c){var u=_(c,r);if(u){if(u===y)continue;return u}}if("next"===r.method)r.sent=r._sent=r.arg;else if("throw"===r.method){if(n===l)throw n=d,r.arg;r.dispatchException(r.arg)}else"return"===r.method&&r.abrupt("return",r.arg);n=h;var a=s(t,e,r);if("normal"===a.type){if(n=r.done?d:p,a.arg===y)continue;return{value:a.arg,done:r.done}}"throw"===a.type&&(n=d,r.method="throw",r.arg=a.arg)}}}(t,r,c),i}function s(t,e,r){try{return{type:"normal",arg:t.call(e,r)}}catch(t){return{type:"throw",arg:t}}}t.wrap=f;var l="suspendedStart",p="suspendedYield",h="executing",d="completed",y={};function v(){}function b(){}function g(){}var w={};a(w,i,(function(){return this}));var m=Object.getPrototypeOf,O=m&&m(m(S([])));O&&O!==r&&n.call(O,i)&&(w=O);var P=g.prototype=v.prototype=Object.create(w);function j(t){["next","throw","return"].forEach((function(e){a(t,e,(function(t){return this._invoke(e,t)}))}))}function E(t,e){function r(o,i,c,u){var a=s(t[o],t,i);if("throw"!==a.type){var f=a.arg,l=f.value;return l&&"object"==typeof l&&n.call(l,"__await")?e.resolve(l.__await).then((function(t){r("next",t,c,u)}),(function(t){r("throw",t,c,u)})):e.resolve(l).then((function(t){f.value=t,c(f)}),(function(t){return r("throw",t,c,u)}))}u(a.arg)}var o;this._invoke=function(t,n){function i(){return new e((function(e,o){r(t,n,e,o)}))}return o=o?o.then(i,i):i()}}function _(t,r){var n=t.iterator[r.method];if(n===e){if(r.delegate=null,"throw"===r.method){if(t.iterator.return&&(r.method="return",r.arg=e,_(t,r),"throw"===r.method))return y;r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("The iterator does not provide a 'throw' method")}return y}var o=s(n,t.iterator,r.arg);if("throw"===o.type)return r.method="throw",r.arg=o.arg,r.delegate=null,y;var i=o.arg;return i?i.done?(r[t.resultName]=i.value,r.next=t.nextLoc,"return"!==r.method&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),r.delegate=null,y):i:(r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("iterator result is not an object"),r.delegate=null,y)}function x(t){var e={tryLoc:t[0]};1 in t&&(e.catchLoc=t[1]),2 in t&&(e.finallyLoc=t[2],e.afterLoc=t[3]),this.tryEntries.push(e)}function L(t){var e=t.completion||{};e.type="normal",delete e.arg,t.completion=e}function k(t){this.tryEntries=[{tryLoc:"root"}],t.forEach(x,this),this.reset(!0)}function S(t){if(t){var r=t[i];if(r)return r.call(t);if("function"==typeof t.next)return t;if(!isNaN(t.length)){var o=-1,c=function r(){for(;++o<t.length;)if(n.call(t,o))return r.value=t[o],r.done=!1,r;return r.value=e,r.done=!0,r};return c.next=c}}return{next:C}}function C(){return{value:e,done:!0}}return b.prototype=g,a(P,"constructor",g),a(g,"constructor",b),b.displayName=a(g,u,"GeneratorFunction"),t.isGeneratorFunction=function(t){var e="function"==typeof t&&t.constructor;return!!e&&(e===b||"GeneratorFunction"===(e.displayName||e.name))},t.mark=function(t){return Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf(t,g):(t.__proto__=g,a(t,u,"GeneratorFunction")),t.prototype=Object.create(P),t},t.awrap=function(t){return{__await:t}},j(E.prototype),a(E.prototype,c,(function(){return this})),t.AsyncIterator=E,t.async=function(e,r,n,o,i){void 0===i&&(i=Promise);var c=new E(f(e,r,n,o),i);return t.isGeneratorFunction(r)?c:c.next().then((function(t){return t.done?t.value:c.next()}))},j(P),a(P,u,"Generator"),a(P,i,(function(){return this})),a(P,"toString",(function(){return"[object Generator]"})),t.keys=function(t){var e=[];for(var r in t)e.push(r);return e.reverse(),function r(){for(;e.length;){var n=e.pop();if(n in t)return r.value=n,r.done=!1,r}return r.done=!0,r}},t.values=S,k.prototype={constructor:k,reset:function(t){if(this.prev=0,this.next=0,this.sent=this._sent=e,this.done=!1,this.delegate=null,this.method="next",this.arg=e,this.tryEntries.forEach(L),!t)for(var r in this)"t"===r.charAt(0)&&n.call(this,r)&&!isNaN(+r.slice(1))&&(this[r]=e)},stop:function(){this.done=!0;var t=this.tryEntries[0].completion;if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return this.rval},dispatchException:function(t){if(this.done)throw t;var r=this;function o(n,o){return u.type="throw",u.arg=t,r.next=n,o&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),!!o}for(var i=this.tryEntries.length-1;i>=0;--i){var c=this.tryEntries[i],u=c.completion;if("root"===c.tryLoc)return o("end");if(c.tryLoc<=this.prev){var a=n.call(c,"catchLoc"),f=n.call(c,"finallyLoc");if(a&&f){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0);if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}else if(a){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0)}else{if(!f)throw new Error("try statement without catch or finally");if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}}}},abrupt:function(t,e){for(var r=this.tryEntries.length-1;r>=0;--r){var o=this.tryEntries[r];if(o.tryLoc<=this.prev&&n.call(o,"finallyLoc")&&this.prev<o.finallyLoc){var i=o;break}}i&&("break"===t||"continue"===t)&&i.tryLoc<=e&&e<=i.finallyLoc&&(i=null);var c=i?i.completion:{};return c.type=t,c.arg=e,i?(this.method="next",this.next=i.finallyLoc,y):this.complete(c)},complete:function(t,e){if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return"break"===t.type||"continue"===t.type?this.next=t.arg:"return"===t.type?(this.rval=this.arg=t.arg,this.method="return",this.next="end"):"normal"===t.type&&e&&(this.next=e),y},finish:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.finallyLoc===t)return this.complete(r.completion,r.afterLoc),L(r),y}},catch:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.tryLoc===t){var n=r.completion;if("throw"===n.type){var o=n.arg;L(r)}return o}}throw new Error("illegal catch attempt")},delegateYield:function(t,r,n){return this.delegate={iterator:S(t),resultName:r,nextLoc:n},"next"===this.method&&(this.arg=e),y}},t}(t.exports);try{regeneratorRuntime=e}catch(t){"object"==typeof globalThis?globalThis.regeneratorRuntime=e:Function("r","regeneratorRuntime = r")(e)}}},e={};function r(n){var o=e[n];if(void 0!==o)return o.exports;var i=e[n]={exports:{}};return t[n](i,i.exports,r),i.exports}r(666);r(930)}();</script> <script type="module"> window.importmap = {"orbit-drawer":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/drawer.mjs","bbccookies":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/a0bc524bc0d94d55ad5f112605059fa5/cookie-banner/cookie-library.module.js"}; var o={738:function(o){o.exports={loadModule:function(o){return new Promise(((n,t)=>{window.require(o,(function(){n.apply(this,arguments)}),(o=>{t(o)}))}))}}},61:function(o,n,t){const{loadModule:r}=t(738);o.exports=function(o){return function(n){return"string"==typeof n&&o[n]?import(o[n]):r(n)}}}},n={};function t(r){var i=n[r];if(void 0!==i)return i.exports;var e=n[r]={exports:{}};return o[r](e,e.exports,t),e.exports}!function(){const o=t(61);window.shimport=o({...window.importmap}),window.importMap=void 0}();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.page = undefined; window.user = undefined; </script> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Rg.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Bd.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin>          <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757cs_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/a09604052573bb19bead51a4b2aba66c/css/box.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/a0bc524bc0d94d55ad5f112605059fa5/cookie-banner/cookie-library.bundle.js"></script><script type="text/javascript">void 0!==window.define&&define("orb/cookies",function(){return window.bbccookies})</script> <script type="text/javascript">window.__detectview={clickManagementEnabled:false};</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";!function(){window.__reverbStaticLocation="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/",window.__smarttagVersion="5.29.1",window.__reverb={},window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise=new Promise(function(e,i){window.__reverb.__resolveReverbLoaded=e,window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded=i}),window.__reverb.__reverbTimeout=setTimeout(function(){window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded()},5e3);var i=function(d,a){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){if(d&&d.detail){var i=!!d.detail.item,n=d.detail.label,t=i?"viewability":d.detail.type,o=d.detail.elem,r=d.detail.originalEvent;d.detail.isClick&&(a=d.detail.isClick),e.userActionEvent(t,n,d.detail,o,r,a)}},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})},n=function(){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})};document.addEventListener("bbc-user-event",function(e){i(e,!1)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-user-click",function(e){i(e,!0)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",n),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&n()})}();</script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/reverb-3.5.0.js" async></script> <script type="text/javascript">const adsDebug=/[?|&]ads-debug/.test(window.location.href),dotcomFlag=/[?|&]ngas/.test(window.location.href),isWwhp=/.bbc.com/.test(window.location.hostname)&&"/"===window.location.pathname||"/wwhp"===window.location.pathname,rx=new RegExp(".bbc.com/sport"),isSport=rx.test(window.location.href),newsRX=new RegExp(".bbc.com/news"),isNews=newsRX.test(window.location.href),weatherRX=new RegExp(".bbc.com/weather"),isWeather=weatherRX.test(window.location.href),progRX=new RegExp(".bbc.co.uk/programmes"),isProg=progRX.test(window.location.href),reelRX=new RegExp(".bbc.com/reel"),isReel=reelRX.test(window.location.href),bbcdotcomDebug=/[?|&]bbcdotcom/.test(window.location.href);var dotcomNgasEl,head,bbcdotcomConfig,bbcdotcomForgeAsync,googletag,bbcdotcom;!bbcdotcomDebug&&(dotcomFlag||isWwhp||isSport||isNews||isWeather||isProg||isReel)?(window.dotcom=window.dotcom||{cmd:[]},window.dotcomConfig=window.dotcomConfig||{},window.dotcom.ads=window.dotcom.ads||{},window.dotcom.ads.resolves={enabled:[],getAdTag:[]},window.dotcom.ads.enabled=function(){return new Promise(function(o){window.dotcom.ads.resolves.enabled.push(o)})},window.dotcom.ads.getAdTag=function(){return new Promise(function(o){window.dotcom.ads.resolves.getAdTag.push(o)})},require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/script"}}),dotcomNgasEl=document.createElement("script"),head=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0],window.dotcomConfig.bbcdotcom=!0,window.bbcdotcom={adverts:{},reset:function(){},setAdUnit:function(){},stickyAdvert:function(){return{add:function(){}}}},window.bbcdotcomConfig={},window.bbcdotcom.cmd={push:function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(o)}},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues={unset:function(){}},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit={setUid:function(){}},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.init=function(o){if(o.adsToDisplay)for(var t=0;t<o.adsToDisplay.length;t++){var n=o.adsToDisplay[t];window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(n)})}if(o.keyValues)for(var t in o.keyValues)window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setTargeting(t,o.keyValues[t])})},bbcdotcom.resetPage=function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.locationChange(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.slotAsync=function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(o,{},"",t)})},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,t,n){let c,e;"string"==typeof o?c=o:([c]=Object.keys(o),e=o[c].advertText||"",t=o[c].groups||t||""),window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(c,n,e,t)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={on:function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,t)})},off:function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,t)})}},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom setConfig",o)},bbcdotcom.config={isAdsEnabled:function(){return!0},isAnalyticsEnabled:function(){return!0},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){o(!0)})},isActive:function(){return!0}},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setTargeting(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},dotcomNgasEl.type="text/javascript",dotcomNgasEl.async=!0,dotcomNgasEl.src=/ads-test=true/.test(window.location.search)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/latest/test/dotcom-bootstrap.js":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/latest/dotcom-bootstrap.js",dotcomNgasEl.onload=function(){var o=document.getElementById("bbccom_interstitial");o&&(o.setAttribute("id","dotcom-interstitial"),o.setAttribute("class","dotcom-ad"),bbcdotcom.slotAsync("interstitial"))},head.appendChild(dotcomNgasEl),window.dotcomEnabled=!0):(bbcdotcomConfig={},bbcdotcomForgeAsync=!0,(googletag=window.googletag||{}).cmd=window.googletag.cmd||[],bbcdotcomScripts=[],tp=window.tp||[],_comscore=window._comscore||[],(bbcdotcom={test:/test/.test(window.location.hostname),adverts:{keyValues:{},breakpoints:{}},advert:{write:function(){},show:function(){},isActive:function(){return!1},layout:function(){return{reset:function(){}}}},config:{init:function(){},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.push(o):o(!1)})},isAdsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.adsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},isAnalyticsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.analyticsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},setSections:function(){},setAdsEnabled:function(){},setAnalyticsEnabled:function(){},setAssetPrefix:function(){},setFlagpoles:function(){},setVersion:function(){},setJsPrefix:function(){},setSwfPrefix:function(){},setCssPrefix:function(){},setConfig:function(){},getAssetPrefix:function(){},getJsPrefix:function(){},getSwfPrefix:function(){},getCssPrefix:function(){},isOptimizelyEnabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabledEU:function(){},setEU:function(){}},survey:{init:function(){return!1}},data:{},init:function(){},objects:function(o){return!1},locale:{set:function(){},get:function(){}},setAdKeyValue:function(){},utils:{addEvent:function(){},addHtmlTagClass:function(){},log:function(){}},addLoadEvent:function(){},resolves:{isAvailable:[],adsEnabled:[],analyticsEnabled:[]},resolvePromises:function(){if(bbcdotcom.resolves){for(var o=0;o<bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.length;o++)bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable[o](!1);delete bbcdotcom.resolves}},flag:{a:!1,s:!1},asyncCmd:[],isSportApp:function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},init:function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.init(o)})},slotAsync:function(o,t,n,c){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.slotAsync(o,t,n,c)})}}).adverts.slotAsync=function(o,t,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync(o,t,n)})},bbcdotcom.config.isAdsEnabled=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isActive=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!0},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,t,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.registerAd(o,t,n)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit={},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid(o)})},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setConfig(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds=function(){bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds=!0},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset(o)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={},bbcdotcom.pubsub.on=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub.off=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.analytics={},bbcdotcom.analytics.page=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.analytics.page(o)})},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.config.isContinuousPlayPage=function(){return!1},bbcdotcom.config.isSportApp=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart(o,t)})},"undefined"!=typeof require&&require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/script"}}),window.bbcdotcom&&bbcdotcom.isSportApp&&!bbcdotcom.isSportApp()&&window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(o){return o&&!adsDebug?(adsDebug&&console.log("UK location, not ads debug mode, don't load flags, don't load ads."),(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void o.resolvePromises()):void window.bbcuser.canSeeAdverts().then(function(o){if(!o&&!adsDebug)return adsDebug&&console.log("canSeeAdverts false, not ads debug mode, don't load ads."),(t=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},t.config.isActive=function(){return!1},t.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},t.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void t.resolvePromises();var t=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops",e=new XMLHttpRequest;e.open("GET",t),e.onload=function(){var t,o,n=JSON.parse(e.responseText),c=window.bbcdotcom||{};c.flag.a="true"===n.adverts?1:0,c.flag.s="true"===n.analytics?1:0,c.flag.a||c.flag.s?(o=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom",(t=new XMLHttpRequest).open("GET",o),t.onload=function(){var c=JSON.parse(t.responseText),e=window.bbcdotcom||{};[{tp:"thirdPartyEEA"},{d:"adsense"},{asa:"adsportapp"},{l:"lotame"},{p:"platinum"},{g:"grapeshot"},{sh:"sherlock"},{pe:"permutive"},{si:"signin"},{sis:"signinSport"},{sin:"signinNews"},{siw:"signinWWHP"},{piano:"piano"},{fundingchoices_cmp:"fundingchoices_cmp"},{storyworks_cmp:"storyworks_cmp"},{content_rec:"content_rec"},{ias_publisher:"ias_publisher"},{fpd:"fpd"},{sticky_leader_news:"sticky_leader_news"},{sticky_leader_sport:"sticky_leader_sport"}].forEach(function(o,t){for(var n in o)e.flag[n]="true"===c[o[n]]?1:0}),e.data={ads:e.flag.a,stats:e.flag.s,statsProvider:"",country:""},function(){const o=document.createElement("link");o.href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/style/bbcdotcom-async.css",o.rel="stylesheet",o.type="text/css",document.head.appendChild(o)}();var o=document.createElement("script"),n=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/script/bbcdotcom.js",o.onload=function(){window.bbcuser.getCountry().then(function(o){e.data.country=o,e.assetPrefix="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/",bbcdotcomConfig={assetPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/",staticVersion:"20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1",staticPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220726-155924-9e10d9515-4.82.1/"},e.config.init(bbcdotcomConfig,e.data,window.location,window.document),e.config.setAssetPrefix(bbcdotcomConfig.assetPrefix),e.config.setVersion(bbcdotcomConfig.staticVersion),e.config.setFlagpoles(e.flag);o=!!o&&-1!==["AT","BE","BG","HR","CY","CZ","DK","EE","FI","FR","DE","GR","HU","IE","IT","LV","LT","LU","MT","NL","PL","PT","RO","SK","SI","ES","SE","IS","LI","NO","CH"].indexOf(o.toUpperCase());e.config.setEU(o);var t,o=function(o){var t=document.createElement("link"),n=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];t.href=o,t.rel="dns-prefetch",n.appendChild(t)};e.flag.s&&o("//web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://secure-us.imrworldwide.com/"),e.flag.a&&(o("//web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.googletagservices.com/"),o("//web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/"),(t=document.createElement("meta")).setAttribute("name","google-site-verification"),t.setAttribute("content","auTeTTwSt_KBY_4iDoR00Lwb7-qzx1IgzJy6ztaWgEI"),n.appendChild(t)),e.flag.a&&(e.config.isGrapeshotEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(t=window.location.href.split("?")[0],bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/?url="+encodeURIComponent(t)})),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js"}),e.config.isIASEnabled()&&(window.__iasPET=window.__iasPET||{},window.__iasPET.queue=window.__iasPET.queue||[],window.__iasPET.pubId="9708",bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://cdn.adsafeprotected.com/iasPET.1.js"}))),(e.flag.s||e.flag.a)&&(e.config.isPermutiveEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(function(n){if(!n){n=n||{},(window.permutive=n).q=[],n.config={consentRequired:!0},n.config.projectId="e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491",n.config.apiKey="1bb84885-9325-4fef-adda-a208032b2715",n.config.environment=n.config.environment||"production";for(var o=["addon","identify","track","trigger","query","segment","segments","ready","on","once","user","consent"],t=0;t<o.length;t++){var c=o[t];n[c]=function(t){return function(){var o=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0);n.q.push({functionName:t,arguments:o})}}(c)}}}((document,window.permutive)),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://cdn.permutive.com/e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491-web.js"})),bbcdotcomScripts.forEach(function(o){var t=document.createElement("script");t.async=!1,o.id&&(t.id=o.id),t.src=o.src,n.appendChild(t)}),window.bbcdotcom.config.isCmpEnabled()?(window.googlefc=window.googlefc||{},window.googlefc.callbackQueue=window.googlefc.callbackQueue||[],new Promise(function(n){window.googlefc.callbackQueue.push({CONSENT_DATA_READY:function(){window.__tcfapi("getTCData",2,function(o,t){t&&o.gdprApplies&&(window.bbcdotcom.consent={},window.bbcdotcom.gdprApplies=!0,window.bbcdotcom.consent.comscore=o.vendor.consents[77],window.bbcdotcom.consent.permutive=o.vendor.consents[360]&&o.vendor.consents[361],window.bbcdotcom.consent.googleads=o.vendor.consents[755],window.bbcdotcom.consent.nielsen=o.vendor.consents[373]&&o.vendor.consents[812],n(!0)),n(!0)},[77,164,360,361,373,755,812])}})}).then(function(){for(window.bbcdotcom.consentChecked=!0,window.bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds&&window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.unshift(function(){window.bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds()});window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}),function(){const o=document.createElement("script");o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/vendor/fundingchoices/cmp.js",document.head.appendChild(o)}()):function(){for(;window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}()),window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom up and running...")})},n.appendChild(o)},t.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},t.send()):((o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises())},e.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},e.send()})}));</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";function asyncGeneratorStep(e,t,n,r,o,a,i){try{var s=e[a](i),c=s.value}catch(e){return void n(e)}s.done?t(c):Promise.resolve(c).then(r,o)}function _asyncToGenerator(s){return function(){var e=this,i=arguments;return new Promise(function(t,n){var r=s.apply(e,i);function o(e){asyncGeneratorStep(r,t,n,o,a,"next",e)}function a(e){asyncGeneratorStep(r,t,n,o,a,"throw",e)}o(void 0)})}}var wrapMethod=function(e,t){return e[t]&&"function"==typeof e[t]?e[t]():Promise.resolve(null)},getPageVariables=function(){return window&&window.bbcpage?Promise.all(["getDestination","getSection"].map(function(e){return wrapMethod(window.bbcpage,e)})).then(function(e){var t=JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(e));return{destination:t[0],section:t[1]}}):Promise.resolve(void 0)},getUserVariables=function(){return window&&window.bbcuser?Promise.all(["isSignedIn","getHashedId"].map(function(e){return wrapMethod(window.bbcuser,e)})).then(function(e){var t=JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(e));return{isSignedIn:t[0],hashedId:t[1]}}):Promise.resolve(void 0)},dotMetricsTag=function(e,t){var n=document.createElement("script");return n.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://uk-script.dotmetrics.net/door.js?d=".concat(t,"&t=").concat(e),n.async=!0,n.id="dotmetrics",document.body.appendChild(n),function(){document.body.removeChild(n)}},isAccountPage=function(e,t){return!!e.includes("account.bbc")||!!t&&("account"===t.toLowerCase()||"account_test"===t.toLowerCase())},parseSiteSectionName=function(e){var t=e.destination,n=e.section,r=document?document.location.host.replace(/:.*/,""):"bbc.no.host";if(t){var o="";return n&&["NEWS_PS","NEWS_PS_TEST","SOUNDS","SOUNDS_TEST","SPORT_PS","SPORT_PS_TEST","IPLAYER","IPLAYER_TEST"].includes(t.toUpperCase())&&(o=n.split("::")[0]),{siteSectionNameString:"".concat(t).concat(o).toLowerCase().replace(/_/g,""),host:r}}return{siteSectionNameString:"other",host:r}};function startUkom(){return _startUkom.apply(this,arguments)}function _startUkom(){return(_startUkom=_asyncToGenerator(regeneratorRuntime.mark(function e(){var t,n,r;return regeneratorRuntime.wrap(function(e){for(;;)switch(e.prev=e.next){case 0:return e.next=2,getUserVariables();case 2:if((t=e.sent)&&t.isSignedIn&&null==t.hashedId)return e.abrupt("return");e.next=5;break;case 5:return e.next=7,getPageVariables();case 7:if(n=e.sent,isAccountPage(document.location.host,n.destination))return e.abrupt("return");e.next=10;break;case 10:r=parseSiteSectionName(n),dotMetricsTag(r.siteSectionNameString,r.host);case 12:case"end":return e.stop()}},e)}))).apply(this,arguments)}document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",function(){startUkom()}),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&startUkom()}),document.addEventListener("DOMContentLoaded",function(){startUkom()});</script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/585/style/id-cta.css"><script type="text/javascript">(function () {if (!window.require) {throw new Error('idcta: could not find require module');}if (typeof (map) == 'undefined') {var map = {};}if (!!document.createElementNS && !!document.createElementNS('http://www.w3.org/2000/svg', 'svg').createSVGRect) {document.documentElement.className += ' id-svg';}var ptrt = new RegExp("[\\?&]ptrt=([^&]*)").exec(document.location.href);var ENDPOINT_URL = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://idcta.api.bbc.co.uk';var ENDPOINT_CONFIG = ('/idcta/config?callback=&ptrt=' + (ptrt ? ptrt[1] : encodeURIComponent(document.location.href))).replace(/\&/g, '&');var ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS = '/idcta/translations?callback=';function hasPromise() {var P = window.Promise;var promiseToString = null;if (P) {try {promiseToString = Object.prototype.toString.call(P.resolve());} catch (e) {/*silently ignored*/}}return (promiseToString === '[object Promise]' && !P.cast);}if (hasPromise()) {define('idcta/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});define('idcta-v2/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});}map['idcta-v2'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/585/modules/idcta-v2';map['idcta-v2/config'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_CONFIG;map['idcta-v2/translations'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS;map['idcta'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.8.2/modules/idcta';map['idcta-v2/idcta-1'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/585/modules/idcta-v2/dist/idcta-1.min';map['idcta-v2/experiment-snippet'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/idcta_live';const idctaShim = {deps: ['idcta-v2/idcta-1'],};require({shim: {'idcta-v2/statusbar': idctaShim,'idcta-v2/id-config': idctaShim},map: {'*': {'idcta/idcta-1': 'idcta-v2/idcta-1','idcta': 'idcta-v2',}},paths: map});window.idctaBaseUrl = ENDPOINT_URL;define('idcta/config', ['idcta-v2/config'], function (data) { return data; });define('idcta/translations', ['idcta-v2/translations'], function (data) { return data; });})();</script> <style>@font-face{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/curious-sans-bold.b389ec59.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/curious-sans-bold.ba46d70f.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-core';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-core.cc52df12.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-core.5435c223.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-media';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-media.41063609.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-media.28e9b877.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-social';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-social.523533c6.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/media/gelicons-social.407b297d.ttf) format("truetype")}.gelicon{font-family:'gelicons-core'}.gelicon,.gelicon::before{-moz-osx-font-smoothing:grayscale;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;font-style:normal !important;font-weight:normal !important;speak:none;text-decoration:none !important}.gelicon--leading::before{margin-right:8px}.gelicon--trailing::before{margin-left:8px}.gelicon--social{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--core{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer,.gelicon--iplayer-radio,.gelicon--previous,.gelicon--up,.gelicon--down,.gelicon--next,.gelicon--tobottom,.gelicon--totop,.gelicon--zoomin,.gelicon--zoomout,.gelicon--search,.gelicon--print,.gelicon--print-invert,.gelicon--yes,.gelicon--no,.gelicon--add,.gelicon--help,.gelicon--info,.gelicon--alert,.gelicon--expires,.gelicon--duration,.gelicon--alarm,.gelicon--countdown,.gelicon--grid,.gelicon--chapters,.gelicon--list,.gelicon--listthumb,.gelicon--lock,.gelicon--unlock,.gelicon--home,.gelicon--new,.gelicon--vocab,.gelicon--degraded,.gelicon--calendar-mini,.gelicon--calendar,.gelicon--mail,.gelicon--location,.gelicon--load,.gelicon--settings,.gelicon--embed,.gelicon--external,.gelicon--traffic,.gelicon--refresh,.gelicon--link,.gelicon--point,.gelicon--upload,.gelicon--download,.gelicon--finder,.gelicon--stations,.gelicon--untitled,.gelicon--untitled-2,.gelicon--quote,.gelicon--calendar-30,.gelicon--download-desktop,.gelicon--map,.gelicon--previous-alternative,.gelicon--next-alternative,.gelicon--arrow-down{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer::before{content:'\e000'}.gelicon--iplayer-radio::before{content:'\e001'}.gelicon--previous::before{content:'\e002'}.gelicon--up::before{content:'\e003'}.gelicon--down::before{content:'\e004'}.gelicon--next::before{content:'\e005'}.gelicon--tobottom::before{content:'\e006'}.gelicon--totop::before{content:'\e007'}.gelicon--zoomin::before{content:'\e008'}.gelicon--zoomout::before{content:'\e00a'}.gelicon--search::before{content:'\e009'}.gelicon--print::before{content:'\e00b'}.gelicon--print-invert::before{content:'\e00c'}.gelicon--yes::before{content:'\e00d'}.gelicon--no::before{content:'\e00e'}.gelicon--add::before{content:'\e00f'}.gelicon--help::before{content:'\e010'}.gelicon--info::before{content:'\e011'}.gelicon--alert::before{content:'\e012'}.gelicon--expires::before{content:'\e013'}.gelicon--duration::before{content:'\e014'}.gelicon--alarm::before{content:'\e015'}.gelicon--countdown::before{content:'\e016'}.gelicon--grid::before{content:'\e017'}.gelicon--chapters::before{content:'\e018'}.gelicon--list::before{content:'\e019'}.gelicon--listthumb::before{content:'\e01a'}.gelicon--lock::before{content:'\e01b'}.gelicon--unlock::before{content:'\e01c'}.gelicon--home::before{content:'\e01d'}.gelicon--new::before{content:'\e01e'}.gelicon--vocab::before{content:'\e01f'}.gelicon--degraded::before{content:'\e020'}.gelicon--calendar-mini::before{content:'\e021'}.gelicon--calendar::before{content:'\e022'}.gelicon--mail::before{content:'\e023'}.gelicon--location::before{content:'\e024'}.gelicon--load::before{content:'\e025'}.gelicon--settings::before{content:'\e026'}.gelicon--embed::before{content:'\e027'}.gelicon--external::before{content:'\e028'}.gelicon--traffic::before{content:'\e029'}.gelicon--refresh::before{content:'\e02a'}.gelicon--link::before{content:'\e02b'}.gelicon--point::before{content:'\e02c'}.gelicon--upload::before{content:'\e02d'}.gelicon--download::before{content:'\e02e'}.gelicon--finder::before{content:'\e02f'}.gelicon--stations::before{content:'\e030'}.gelicon--untitled::before{content:'\42'}.gelicon--untitled-2::before{content:'\43'}.gelicon--quote::before{content:'\22'}.gelicon--playlister-add::before{content:'\e031'}.gelicon--calendar-30::before{content:'\e032'}.gelicon--download-desktop::before{content:'\e033'}.gelicon--map::before{content:'\e034'}.gelicon--previous-alternative::before{content:'\e035'}.gelicon--next-alternative::before{content:'\e036'}.gelicon--arrow-down::before{content:'\e038'}.gelicon--menu,.gelicon--live,.gelicon--subtitles,.gelicon--ws,.gelicon--sd,.gelicon--hd,.gelicon--bsl,.gelicon--ad,.gelicon--3d,.gelicon--tv,.gelicon--radio,.gelicon--mobile,.gelicon--desktop,.gelicon--game,.gelicon--tablet,.gelicon--quiz,.gelicon--guidance,.gelicon--record,.gelicon--listen,.gelicon--play,.gelicon--pause,.gelicon--rewind,.gelicon--forward,.gelicon--restart,.gelicon--image,.gelicon--document,.gelicon--slideshow,.gelicon--activity,.gelicon--360,.gelicon--podcast,.gelicon--newsletter,.gelicon--rss,.gelicon--fullscreen,.gelicon--expand,.gelicon--popout,.gelicon--mute,.gelicon--music-on,.gelicon--music-off,.gelicon--windows,.gelicon--apple,.gelicon--interactive{font-family:'gelicons-media' !important}.gelicon--menu::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--live::before{content:'\e100'}.gelicon--subtitles::before{content:'\e101'}.gelicon--ws::before{content:'\e102'}.gelicon--sd::before{content:'\e103'}.gelicon--hd::before{content:'\e104'}.gelicon--bsl::before{content:'\e105'}.gelicon--ad::before{content:'\e106'}.gelicon--3d::before{content:'\e107'}.gelicon--tv::before{content:'\e108'}.gelicon--radio::before{content:'\e109'}.gelicon--mobile::before{content:'\e10a'}.gelicon--desktop::before{content:'\e10b'}.gelicon--game::before{content:'\e10c'}.gelicon--tablet::before{content:'\e10d'}.gelicon--quiz::before{content:'\e10e'}.gelicon--guidance::before{content:'\e10f'}.gelicon--record::before{content:'\e110'}.gelicon--listen::before{content:'\e111'}.gelicon--play::before{content:'\e112'}.gelicon--pause::before{content:'\e113'}.gelicon--rewind::before{content:'\e114'}.gelicon--forward::before{content:'\e115'}.gelicon--restart::before{content:'\e116'}.gelicon--image::before{content:'\e117'}.gelicon--document::before{content:'\e118'}.gelicon--slideshow::before{content:'\e119'}.gelicon--activity::before{content:'\e11a'}.gelicon--360::before{content:'\e11b'}.gelicon--podcast::before{content:'\e11c'}.gelicon--newsletter::before{content:'\e11d'}.gelicon--rss::before{content:'\e11e'}.gelicon--fullscreen::before{content:'\e11f'}.gelicon--expand::before{content:'\e120'}.gelicon--popout::before{content:'\e121'}.gelicon--mute::before{content:'\e122'}.gelicon--music-on::before{content:'\e123'}.gelicon--music-off::before{content:'\e124'}.gelicon--windows::before{content:'\e125'}.gelicon--apple::before{content:'\e126'}.gelicon--interactive::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--share,.gelicon--recommend,.gelicon--comments,.gelicon--blog,.gelicon--smiley,.gelicon--love,.gelicon--twitter,.gelicon--facebook,.gelicon--google-plus,.gelicon--google,.gelicon--spotify,.gelicon--pinterest,.gelicon--tumblr,.gelicon--stumbleupon,.gelicon--linkedin,.gelicon--reddit,.gelicon--digg,.gelicon--instagram,.gelicon--whatsapp{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--share::before{content:'\e200'}.gelicon--recommend::before{content:'\e201'}.gelicon--comments::before{content:'\e202'}.gelicon--blog::before{content:'\e203'}.gelicon--smiley::before{content:'\e204'}.gelicon--love::before{content:'\e205'}.gelicon--twitter::before{content:'\e300'}.gelicon--facebook::before{content:'\e301'}.gelicon--google-plus::before{content:'\e700'}.gelicon--google::before{content:'\e701'}.gelicon--spotify::before{content:'\e304'}.gelicon--pinterest::before{content:'\e305'}.gelicon--tumblr::before{content:'\e306'}.gelicon--stumbleupon::before{content:'\e307'}.gelicon--linkedin::before{content:'\e308'}.gelicon--reddit::before{content:'\e309'}.gelicon--digg::before{content:'\e30a'}.gelicon--instagram::before{content:'\e30b'}.gelicon--whatsapp::before{content:'\e600'}.basic-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #adadad;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 0 #fff,0 2px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.08);color:#193e6d;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:20px;height:54px;justify-content:center;min-width:222px;text-align:center;transition:0.6s}.basic-button--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button--future{color:#002856}.basic-button--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button__text{color:#444;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;transition:0.6s}.basic-button__text--white{color:#fff}.basic-button__text--curious{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.basic-button__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button__text--future{color:#002856}.basic-button__text--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button__text--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button::before{padding-right:16px}.basic-button:hover{background-color:#dedede}.basic-button--background-light-blue:hover{background-color:#dfe8ff}.basic-button--background-worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.basic-button--background-future{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-culture{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--background-travel{background-color:#589e50}.basic-button--background-worklife:hover{background-color:#4494e4}.basic-button--background-future:hover{background-color:#ffc857}.basic-button--background-culture:hover{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-travel:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button__text--bold{font-weight:bold}.load-more-button{box-sizing:border-box}.load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{margin-right:16px;transform:rotate(90deg)}.load-more-button__downarrow{color:#adadad;font-size:22px;transition:0.6s}.load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{animation:spin 2s linear infinite}.load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type{padding-right:16px}.load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type){padding-left:16px}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(90deg)}100%{transform:rotate(-270deg)}}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button-inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase}.see-more-button-inner--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px}.see-more-button-inner__arrow--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__text{margin-right:24px}.read-more-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-weight:bold;position:relative;width:224px}.AdFrame{display:inline-flex}.AdFrame--default{background-color:#f6f6f6}.AdFrame--dark-grey{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8)}.AdFrame--centre-aligned{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.text-with-styled-background{height:inherit;position:relative;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background--collection{display:inline-block;width:unset}.text-with-styled-background--center-align{align-items:center;display:flex}.text-with-styled-background__text{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#444;display:block;font-size:20px;line-height:24px;padding:0 0 0 10px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__text--large{font-size:26px;line-height:30px;padding:0 0 0 24px}.text-with-styled-background__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding{padding:0;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__text--largest{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--future{color:#002856}.text-with-styled-background__text--culture{color:#472479}.text-with-styled-background__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.text-with-styled-background__text--travel{color:#589e50}.text-with-styled-background__text--blue{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection{font-size:28px;line-height:34px;padding:0}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium{font-size:32px;line-height:38px}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__line-container{bottom:0;margin-left:13px;position:absolute;width:calc(100% - 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.05);height:26px;max-width:240px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__line--large{bottom:-10px;height:42px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--narrow{height:26px;max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line--medium{bottom:-10px;height:36px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--largest{max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection{width:calc(100% + 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin{margin:0}.text-with-styled-background__line--collection{height:26px}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.simple-header{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-header--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-header--simple{font-size:18px;line-height:22px}.simple-header--small{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--smallest{font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;line-height:24px}.simple-header--medium{font-size:24px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--regular{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--condensed-bold{font-stretch:condensed}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large{line-height:37px}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular{line-height:28px}.simple-header--white{color:#fff} .article-intro{position:relative}.article-intro__line{margin-top:24px}.author-unit{display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px}.author-unit--small-mobile{line-height:30px}.author-unit .author-unit__container{color:#4a4a4a;margin:0 auto}.author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop{margin:0}.author-unit__container{align-items:baseline;display:flex;padding:10px 0}.author-unit__text{font-style:italic;font-weight:600;padding-right:10px;text-decoration:none}.author-unit__icon{color:#6a6a6a;padding-right:14px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;top:1px}.author-unit__icon:hover{color:#00bbf2}.partner-module{border-bottom:1px solid #472479;border-top:0}.partner-module__link,.partner-module__link:visited{align-items:center;color:#444;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:0;text-decoration:none}.partner-module__link:hover{background-color:#f5f5f5}.partner-module__heading{display:inline-block;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:16px 0}.partner-module__partner-name{font-weight:bold}.partner-module__partner-logo{display:block;height:31px;margin:12px 0;margin-left:17px;width:88px}.uppercase-label{color:#8f8d8d;font-size:12px;font-style:condensed;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin:0;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase;transition:color 0.4s}.uppercase-label--small{font-size:11px;font-weight:400;line-height:14px;margin:0}.uppercase-label--medium{font-size:14px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--reith-condensed{font-weight:400}.uppercase-label--white{color:#ebebeb}.uppercase-label--light-grey{color:#999}.uppercase-label--dark-grey{color:#444}.uppercase-label--large{font-size:16px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--true-white{color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 1px #193e6d}.uppercase-label--arial{font-family:Arial} .label-with-line{align-items:center;display:flex}.label-with-line__label{margin:0 16px 0 0}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}100%{transform:rotate(360deg)}}.spinner{fill:#444}.spinner__image{animation:spin 1s linear infinite}.spinner--worklife{fill:#8beed9}.spinner--future{fill:#ffc857}.spinner--culture{fill:#472479}.spinner--travel{fill:#002856}.spinner--earth{fill:#002856}.spinner--white{fill:#fff}.spinner--audio{height:32px;width:32px}.play-button__inline-audio,.play-button__inline-video{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:49px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:49px}.play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play{color:#ececec;transition-duration:0.6s}.play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play{color:#8beed9}.play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play{color:#ffc857}.play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play{color:#472479}.play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-video:hover{background-color:#ececec}.play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play{color:#000}.play-button__inline-audio{color:#fff;font-size:22px;height:50px;padding:0;width:50px}.play-button{align-items:center;background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2);border:2px solid #5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:80px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:80px}.play-button:hover{color:#5ae9cb}.play-button--white{border:4px solid #fff}.play-button--white:hover{color:#fff}.play-button--white .gelicon--play{color:inherit}.play-button--worklife{border:2px solid #8beed9}.play-button--worklife:hover{color:#8beed9}.play-button--travel{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--travel:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--future{border:2px solid #ffc857}.play-button--future:hover{color:#ffc857}.play-button--culture{border:2px solid #472479}.play-button--culture:hover{color:#472479}.play-button--earth{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--earth:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--desktop{font-size:30px;height:76px;width:76px}.play-button--background-hover:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6)}.inline-video{height:100%}.inline-video__container{position:relative}.inline-video__border-line{padding:0 10px}.inline-video .play-button__inline-video{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;z-index:1000}.inline-video__smp{background-color:#000;padding-bottom:56.25%}.inline-video__smp--loaded{background-color:unset;padding-bottom:unset}.inline-video__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin:0 10px 0 3%;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-video__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:28px 0 18px} .body-text-card-inline-video{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.previous-media-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.previous-media-button__icon--white svg{fill:#fff}.previous-media-button span{height:18px;width:16px}.error-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.error-button .gelicon--alert{color:#ececec}.inline-audio-player{background:none}.inline-audio-player__smp-container{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div{height:50px;position:relative}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div>div{padding:0 !important}.inline-audio-player__container{display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-holder{align-items:center;background-color:#ededed;display:flex;padding-right:8px}.inline-audio-player__cta-container{align-items:center;display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising *{cursor:initial;pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button{opacity:0.6}.inline-audio-player__text{background:none;border:0;color:#222;cursor:pointer;font-size:18px;height:25px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:25px;margin-left:12px;outline:inherit;padding:0}.inline-audio-player__text--offline{cursor:default;pointer-events:none}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;left:-110px;line-height:12px;margin-left:0;padding:0 7px;position:relative;top:25px;width:66px}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow{transform:rotate(45deg)}.inline-audio-player__inner-arrow{color:#4d4d49;font-size:10px}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button{background-color:transparent;border:0;margin-left:auto;outline:none;transition:all 0.5s ease}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open{transform:rotate(180deg)}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.inline-audio-player__hidden{display:none}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container{background-color:#ededed;color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding:1rem}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide{display:none}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.inline-audio-player__line{margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player .previous-media-button{height:50px;margin-right:1px;width:50px}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.text-summary__text{font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin:0;text-align:left}.text-summary__text--blue{color:#193e6d}.text-summary__text--black{color:#000}.text-summary__text--grey{color:#6a6a6a}.text-summary__text--dark-grey{color:#444}.text-summary__text--left{text-align:left}.text-summary__text--right{text-align:right}.inline-image__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);font-style:italic;margin:0 10px;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-image__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:20px 0 18px}.inline-image img{border-radius:0}.simple-p-tag{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-p-tag--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-p-tag--medium{font-size:27px;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px}.simple-p-tag--quote{color:#575757}.simple-header--serif-light-italic{font-style:italic;line-height:inherit}.inline-quote{border-left:3px solid #575757;color:#575757;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px;margin:0;padding-left:22px}.inline-quote--worklife{border-left:3px solid #8beed9}.inline-quote--future{border-left:3px solid #ffc857}.inline-quote--culture{border-left:3px solid #472479}.inline-quote--earth{border-left:3px solid #002856}.inline-quote h2{font-weight:300}.article-video{height:100%;position:relative}.article-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-video__overlay{display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__play-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;left:50%;padding:0;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);z-index:1500}.article-video__label{margin-bottom:16px}.article-video__image{bottom:0;height:100%;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__image--hide{opacity:0}.article-video__playercore{display:block}.article-video__playercore--mobile{display:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__playercore--show{display:block}.article-video--bordered{border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden} .copyright__text{color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin-bottom:10px;text-align:center}@media (max-width: 767px){.copyright__text{margin-top:12px}}.hero-video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:180px;justify-content:center;position:relative;z-index:1}.hero-video__video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:80%;justify-content:center;position:relative;width:80%;z-index:2}.hero-video__video--desktop{left:0;top:65px;width:71.5% !important}.hero-video__video--mobile{height:100%;width:100%}.hero-video__video--small-desktop{height:70%;left:0;top:78px;width:67%}.hero-video--small-desktop,.hero-video--desktop{display:block;height:720px}.hero-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;filter:brightness(40%)}@media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active){.hero-video img{opacity:0.5}}.hero-video--mobile{height:280px}.hero-video--medium-mobile{height:430px}.hero-video--tablet{height:574px}.hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video{margin-bottom:10px}.hero-video__play-button{position:absolute;z-index:100}.hero-video__video div div{position:inherit !important;position:unset !important} .content-embed{width:100%} .infographic-embed__frame{width:100%} .screen-reader-only{border:0;clip:rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);clip-path:inset(50%);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute !important;width:1px;word-wrap:normal !important}.email-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:11px;height:50px;justify-content:center;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.email-icon:hover{background-color:#000}.email-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.facebook-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:15px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.facebook-icon:hover{background-color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #3b5998;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue:hover{background-color:#3b5998;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--small{font-size:20px;height:38px;width:38px} .ticked-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#13de99;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);display:flex;height:50px;justify-content:center;width:50px;z-index:55}.ticked-icon--small{font-size:12px;height:38px;width:38px}.google-plus-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.google-plus-icon:hover{background-color:#d34836}.google-plus-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.linkedin-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.linkedin-icon:hover{background-color:#0077b5}.linkedin-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.reddit-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.reddit-icon:hover{background-color:#ff4500}.reddit-icon__hide{display:none}.reddit-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.twitter-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.twitter-icon:hover{background-color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #1da1f2;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue:hover{background-color:#1da1f2;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--small{font-size:18px;height:38px;width:38px}.whatsapp-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.whatsapp-icon:hover{background-color:#25d366}.whatsapp-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.article-share-tools{display:flex}.article-share-tools a,.article-share-tools button{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-sizing:border-box;color:#979797;display:flex;height:52px;margin-right:2px;width:52px}.article-share-tools--dark a,.article-share-tools--dark button{color:#444;height:54px;width:54px}.article-share-tools--dark a svg,.article-share-tools--dark button svg{stroke:#444}.article-share-tools a:hover,.article-share-tools button:hover{background-color:#fff}.article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover{color:#3b5898}.article-share-tools .email-icon:hover{color:#615f5d}.article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover{color:#47c7fa}.article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover{color:#0077b5}.article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover{color:#25d366}.article-share-tools .facebook-messenger{color:#0184ff}.article-share-tools .ticked-icon{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;font-size:11px;margin-right:2px;padding:3px}.article-share-tools--popout>*,.article-share-tools--popout a{color:#020203;margin-bottom:3px;transition:0.4s} .share-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;color:#444;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;justify-content:center;letter-spacing:3px;padding:18px 16px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.6s;width:110px;z-index:55}.share-button .gelicon--share{margin-right:10px;transition:0.3s ease-in}.share-button:hover .gelicon--share,.share-button .gelicon--share-sharing{transform:rotate(-180deg)} .share-tools-popout{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:30px 0 20px;position:relative;width:300px}.share-tools-popout__text{color:#444;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 18px 18px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.share-tools-popout__url-container{padding:0 18px;width:100%}.share-tools-popout__articleurl{border:1px solid #979797;box-sizing:border-box;color:#a39f9f;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;margin-bottom:8px;margin-top:0;padding:12px 10px;text-align:center;width:262px}.share-tools-popout__close{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:absolute;right:8px;top:20px}.share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#888;transform:rotate(90deg)}.share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#000;font-size:16px;transition:0.4s}.share-tools-popout__border-arrow{background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;border-bottom:0;border-right:0;height:12px;left:40px;position:absolute;top:-7px;transform:rotate(45deg);width:12px}.share-tools-popout__tools{margin-bottom:13px}.share-tools-popout__details{align-self:normal;color:#444;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:16px;margin:0;max-width:180px;padding-left:14px}.share-tools-popout__copied,.share-tools-popout__copy{background-color:#000;border:unset;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin-bottom:18px;padding:12px 6px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.4s;width:110px}.share-tools-popout__copy:hover{background-color:#555}.share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes{color:#ff9700;margin-left:8px} .share-button-with-popout{position:relative;z-index:9999}.share-button-with-popout__popout{max-width:330px;padding-right:8px;position:absolute;top:53px;width:100%}.share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop{width:auto} .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:24px}.article-end__share-tools{margin-bottom:0}.article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:36px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:44px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools{display:flex;margin-bottom:50px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share{margin-top:0}.article-end__share{margin-top:5px}.section-header-text__text{background-color:#fff;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:0 0 20px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5),0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5);margin:0 8px;opacity:0.95;padding:16px;position:relative;z-index:3}.section-header-text__text--no-margin{margin:0}.section-header-text__ad{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;margin:0 8px 8px;position:relative;top:unset}.section-header-text__ad--desktop{margin:0 0 8px}.section-header-text__title{display:inline-block}.section-header-text__title--large-margin{margin:0 40px 16px 0}.section-header-text__title--premium{border:1.78px solid;padding:8px}.section-header-text__title-content{color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset}.section-header-text__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px}.section-header-text__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.section-header-text__description{color:#555;font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0}.section-header-text__description--large{font-size:16px;line-height:24px}.section-header-unit{max-width:1280px;position:relative}.section-header-unit--tablet{height:320px}.section-header-unit--desktop{border-radius:4px;height:320px;overflow:hidden}.section-header-unit__image{height:320px;max-height:320px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.section-header-unit__image img{left:50%;position:relative;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.section-header-unit__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.section-header-unit__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.section-header-unit__content{position:relative;transform:translateY(-50%)}.section-header-unit__content--desktop{bottom:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;max-width:420px;position:absolute;right:32px;top:0;transform:none}.section-header-unit__content--advert{transform:translateY(calc(-50% - 28px))} .domestic-disclaimer{background-color:#333;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__content{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:990px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small{max-width:976px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop{max-width:1248px}.domestic-disclaimer__text{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:13px;line-height:14px;margin:auto;padding:8px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;padding:16px 54px 16px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;margin-left:0;max-width:890px;padding:14px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;padding:0 16px 0 0;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop{padding:0 16px 0 0}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop{font-size:22px}.drop-capped{align-items:center;border:2px solid #444;color:#444;display:flex;float:left;font-size:58px;font-weight:bold;height:84px;justify-content:center;margin:8px 10px 4px 0;text-transform:uppercase;width:84px}.drop-capped--worklife{border-color:#8beed9}.drop-capped--future{border-color:#ffc857}.drop-capped--culture{border-color:#444}.drop-capped--earth{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--travel{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--desktop{margin-right:24px}.label-list{display:flex;flex-direction:row;position:relative}.label-list__line{width:100%}.label-list__content{margin:30px 0 0 16px;width:100%}.label-list__content--tablet{margin:34px 0 0 38px}.label-list__content--desktop{margin:42px 0 0 32px}.label-list__list-item{margin:0;padding:0}.label-list__link{color:#444;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;text-decoration:none}.label-list__link:hover{color:#adadad}.label-list__link--large{font-size:22px;line-height:29px}.label-list__link:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:8px}.label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:12px}.label-list__list-items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:36px}.label-list__list-items--tablet{margin-top:52px}.label-list__list-items--desktop{margin-top:46px}.offline-reading{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.offline-reading__header{font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 16px;max-width:220px;text-align:center}.offline-reading__header--desktop{font-size:18px;max-width:460px}.offline-reading__buttons{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;text-align:center}.offline-reading__buttons--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.offline-reading__top-stories{margin-bottom:24px}.offline-reading__top-stories--desktop{margin:0 16px 0 0}.offline-reading__icon{display:block;height:auto;margin-bottom:24px;width:120px}.rectangle-image{background-size:cover;height:74px;max-width:100%;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:132px}.rectangle-image img{height:100%;left:50%;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:auto}.rectangle-image--small{box-sizing:border-box;height:32px;width:56px}.rectangle-image--large{box-sizing:border-box;height:162px;width:288px}.rectangle-image--medium{box-sizing:border-box;height:126px;width:222px}.rectangle-image--full-screen{padding-top:56.25%;width:100%}.rectangle-image img{transition:all 0.4s ease}.rectangle-image__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:100%}.rectangle-image__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-image:hover img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:100%;width:288px}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000}.rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#482978}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item__image-container{position:relative;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item--tablet{width:222px}.rectangle-story-item__container{display:flex;flex:1 1 auto;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:3px;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;padding-bottom:3px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.rectangle-story-item__line{display:block;margin:16px 0}.rectangle-story-item__author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);display:block;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000;bottom:0;color:#fff;font-size:14px;height:44px;line-height:44px;position:absolute;text-align:center;transition:0.4s ease;width:44px}.rectangle-story-item__title--white,.rectangle-story-item__author--white,.rectangle-story-item__label--white{color:#fff}.rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover{border-bottom:0}.rectangle-story-item__label--white>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #fff} .rectangle-article-group{display:flex;flex:1;flex-direction:column;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-article-group--tablet,.rectangle-article-group--desktop{flex-direction:row}.rectangle-article-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-top:12px}.rectangle-article-group__article--tablet{padding:0 16px 0 0}.rectangle-article-group__article--desktop{padding:0 24px 0 0} .fake-ad{align-content:center;align-items:center;background:#f6f6f6;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding:8px}.fake-ad__body{align-items:center;background:#5ae9cb;color:#fff;display:flex;flex:0 0 auto;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;justify-content:center}.fake-ad__text{align-self:center;color:#444;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;line-height:1.5;text-align:right;text-transform:uppercase}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body{height:320px;width:320px}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text{width:320px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:50px;width:300px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:300px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:90px;width:728px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:728px} .inline-html{display:block} .body-text-card-inline-image{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.body-text-card{color:#444;display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:1.5}.body-text-card__image,.body-text-card__video{margin:24px 0}.body-text-card__text{display:block}.body-text-card__advert{margin:20px 0}.body-text-card__text div a{cursor:pointer;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.body-text-card__text a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.body-text-card__text>div>p{margin:0 20px 16px}.body-text-card__text>div>p:last-child{margin-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}.body-text-card__drop-capped{float:left;margin:0 8px 0 20px;padding-top:6px}.body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter{color:transparent;font-size:0}.body-text-card__text--flush-text>div>p{margin-left:0;margin-right:0}.body-text-card__text--future div a:visited{color:#666}.body-text-card__text--future div a{color:#002856;text-decoration-color:#002856}.body-text-card__text--travel div a{color:#589e50;text-decoration-color:#589e50}.body-text-card__text--worklife div a{color:#0052a1;text-decoration-color:#0052a1}.body-text-card__text--earth div a{color:#0fbb56;text-decoration-color:#0fbb56}.body-text-card__text--culture div a{color:#472479;text-decoration-color:#472479}.swimlane-inner{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:auto 100%;display:block;padding:24px 16px}.swimlane-inner--small{padding:24px 8px}.swimlane-inner--tablet{padding:28px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--small-desktop{padding:30px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--desktop{padding:38px 16px 42px}.swimlane{overflow:hidden;position:relative;z-index:0}.swimlane__black{background-color:#0e0e0e}.swimlane__background-image{height:500px;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:915px;z-index:-1}.swimlane__background-image--mobile{height:181px;width:320px}.swimlane__background-image--tablet{height:421px;width:752px}.swimlane__background-image--desktop{height:500px;width:915px}.swimlane__background-image--atb{background-color:rgba(51,51,51,0.8);background-size:cover;height:100%;width:100%}.swimlane__item{margin:0 0 25px;width:100%}.swimlane__item--desktop{margin:0}.swimlane__item--tablet{margin:0 16px 25px 0;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 3)}.swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n+3){margin-right:0}.swimlane__item--two-columns{margin-right:0 !important;max-width:572px;width:50%}.swimlane__item--four-columns{box-sizing:border-box;margin-bottom:25px;margin-right:16px;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 4)}.swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n+4){margin-right:0}.swimlane__items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:24px;text-align:left}.swimlane__items--desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;margin-top:42px}.swimlane__items--small-desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--tablet{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--no-title{margin-top:0}.swimlane__content{margin:auto;max-width:942px;text-align:center}.swimlane__content--desktop{max-width:1216px}.swimlane__title{color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase}.swimlane__title--black{color:#010101;font-weight:400}.see-more-button-container-alt{color:#0e0e0e}.branding{box-sizing:content-box !important;display:inline-block;height:24px;padding:12px 16px;width:100%}.branding__icon{display:inline-block;height:24px;width:100%}.branding__icon g{fill:#fff}.branding--medium{padding:16px}.branding--large{padding:16px 24px}.branding--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.branding--future{background-color:#002856}.branding--culture{background-color:#472479}.branding--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.branding--travel{background-color:#589e50}.branding--travel svg,.branding--earth svg,.branding--culture svg,.branding--future svg,.branding--worklife svg{height:24px}.branding--small,.branding--small svg{height:17px}.branding__icon--medium,.branding--medium,.branding--medium svg{height:22px}.branding__icon--large,.branding--large,.branding--large svg{height:24px}.branding__icon--largest,.branding--largest,.branding--largest svg{height:32px}.branding__icon--small,.branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--future .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg{height:17px}.nav-label{color:#4e4e4e;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;transition:0.4s}.nav-label:hover{color:#8e8e8e}.nav-label--menu{color:#ebebeb}.nav-label--menu:hover{color:#cecece}.nav-label--white{color:#fff}.nav-label--curiousSans{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.nav-links__link{align-items:center;display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;padding-right:24px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-links__link--active p{border-bottom:2px solid #002856;font-weight:bold}.nav-links__link--active--menu p{border-bottom:unset}.nav-links__link--active--worklife p{border-bottom:2px solid #0052a1}.nav-links__link--active--culture p{border-bottom:2px solid #472479}.nav-links__link--active--earth p{border-bottom:2px solid #0fbb56}.nav-links__link--active--travel p{border-bottom:2px solid #589e50}.nav-links__icon{background-color:#0052a1;bottom:10px;height:2px;position:absolute;width:80px}.nav-links__link--menu{display:block;padding-right:unset}.nav-links__icon--menu{display:none}.nav-links__icon--menu-tablet{width:60px}.nav-links__icon--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-links__icon--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-links__icon--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-links__icon--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-links__icon--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-links__link--menu p{font-size:26px;padding:0 0 32px 24px}.nav-links__link--menu-desktop p{font-size:32px;line-height:42px;padding:0 0 44px 100px}.close-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.close-nav__icon{color:#fff;display:flex;font-size:20px;transition:0.4s}.close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon{color:#cecece;transform:rotate(90deg)}.close-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px} .follow-us-on{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.follow-us-on__text{color:#fff;font-size:16px;font-style:condensed;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase}.follow-us-on__links{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.follow-us-on__link:first-child{margin-right:16px}.ad-slot{display:inline-block}.ad-slot__container{align-items:center;display:flex}.ad-slot__label{max-width:120px;min-width:112px;padding-right:8px;text-align:right}.ad-slot--leaderboard{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.ad-slot__label--mpu,.ad-slot__label--leaderboard{margin-bottom:8px;max-width:unset;padding-right:unset;text-align:right}.ad-slot__container--mpu,.ad-slot__container--leaderboard{display:inline-block;flex-wrap:unset}.ad-slot__fake--sponsor{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:31px;min-width:88px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:250px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:600px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:90px;min-width:728px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:320px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__label--dark{color:#dcdcdc}.ad-slot--dark{background-color:#f6f6f6;padding:8px}.ad-slot--black{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8);padding:8px} .sponsor-section{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;max-width:530px}.sponsor-section--menu{padding:20px 0 16px 24px}.sponsor-section__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%}.sponsor-section__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row;justify-content:space-between}.sponsor-section__sponsor{color:#fff;padding-right:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#4e4e4e;font-size:26px;margin:0;white-space:nowrap}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile{padding-bottom:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop{font-size:22px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu{color:#fff}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop{font-size:32px}.sponsor-section__summary{color:#ebebeb;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-top:16px}.sponsor-section__advert{display:inline-block}.nav-menu{background-color:#0052a1;display:block;height:100%;left:0;min-height:100vh;opacity:0.98;overflow:auto;position:fixed;top:0;width:100vw}.nav-menu--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-menu--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-menu--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-menu--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-menu--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-menu__close-nav{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;padding:16px 8px 60px}.nav-menu__close-nav--desktop{padding:20px 16px 70px}.nav-menu__sponsored{background-color:rgba(34,34,34,0.5);height:100%;margin-bottom:32px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop{margin-bottom:44px}.nav-menu__sponsored-container{padding:20px 16px 16px 24px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container{margin:auto;max-width:1264px;padding:20px 16px 20px 100px}.nav-menu__follow-us{padding:52px 0 34px}.burger-nav{background:transparent;border:0;color:#0052a1;cursor:pointer;font-size:20px;outline:none;padding:0}.burger-nav--worklife{color:#0052a1}.burger-nav--future{color:#002856}.burger-nav--culture{color:#472479}.burger-nav--earth{color:#0fbb56}.burger-nav--travel{color:#589e50}.burger-nav--medium{font-size:16px}.burger-nav--small{font-size:12px} .open-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;padding:0;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.open-nav__icon{display:flex}.open-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px}.nav-build-bar{align-items:center;display:flex;height:auto;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;width:100%}.nav-build-bar--mobile{height:auto;justify-content:space-between}.nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content{white-space:pre-wrap}.nav-build-bar--tablet{height:58px}.nav-build-bar--desktop{height:60px}.nav-build-bar__links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;height:100%;justify-content:flex-end;margin-left:auto;overflow:hidden}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand{align-items:center;display:flex;margin-left:8px;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand{margin-left:0}.nav-build-bar__branding{display:flex;padding:0 8px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--tablet{padding:0 30px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--desktop{padding:0 80px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__title-content{border:1.78px solid;color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset;padding:8px;width:fit-content}.nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav{display:flex;height:48px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav-button{display:flex;padding-left:8px}.nav-build-bar__sponsored{background-color:#f6f6f6;border:1px solid #d3d3d3;height:48px;padding:0 16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop{padding-right:16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile{justify-content:flex-end;max-width:100px;width:100%}.nav-bar{background-color:#fff}.nav-bar__hidden-menu{display:none}.nav-bar__visible-menu{display:block}.nav-bar__no-scroll{max-height:100vh;overflow:hidden}.styled-dot{background-color:#5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;height:6px;width:6px}.styled-dot--no-cursor{cursor:unset}.styled-dot--medium{box-shadow:unset;height:10px;width:10px}.styled-dot--dark-blue{background-color:#193e6d}.styled-dot--purple{background-color:#362e67;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--black{background-color:#000;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--grey-green{background-color:#008e9b;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--dark-green{background-color:#589e50;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-dot--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-dot--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--worklife-prime{background-color:#0052a1}.styled-dot--future-prime{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--culture-prime{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth-prime{background-color:#0fbb56}.styled-dot--travel-prime{background-color:#589e50}.styled-dot--large{box-shadow:0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);height:16px;width:16px}.styled-dot--small{box-shadow:unset;height:8px;width:8px}.styled-dot--grey{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2)}.dot-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.dot-with-label__text{padding-left:8px}.dot-with-label__text a{text-decoration:none}.dot-with-label__text:hover h2{color:#adadad} .play-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.play-icon--red{color:#f00}.play-icon--grey{color:#999}.play-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.play-icon--large{font-size:20px} .camera-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.camera-icon--red{color:#f00}.camera-icon--grey{color:#999}.camera-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.camera-icon--large{font-size:20px} .info-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.info-icon--red{color:#f00}.info-icon--grey{color:#999}.info-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.info-icon--large{font-size:20px} .icon-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.icon-with-label__icon{padding-right:10px}.more-articles-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles-item__link{text-decoration:none}.more-articles-item__container{display:flex;width:100%}.more-articles-item__label{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:8px}.more-articles-item__type{margin-right:16px;position:relative}.more-articles-item__icon{color:#fff;font-size:12px;margin-right:8px}.more-articles-item__text{color:#fff;font-size:20px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;padding:0;position:relative;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7);transition:color 0.4s}.more-articles-item__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.more-articles-item__text--large{color:#ebebeb;font-size:30px;line-height:37px}.more-articles-item__container--column{flex-direction:column}.more-articles-item__image-container{position:relative}.more-articles-item--two-columns{margin-right:16px}.more-articles-item__label--desktop{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__label--tablet{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text{color:#adadad} .more-articles{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:cover;object-fit:cover;overflow:hidden;position:relative;transition:background-image 0.4s}.more-articles__heading{display:inline-block;margin:auto;max-width:1272px;padding:20px 0 0 16px;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles__stories{margin:10px 16px 42px;max-width:1232px;padding:8px;position:relative;z-index:4}.more-articles__stories--small{padding:0}.more-articles__stories--tablet{margin:24px 16px 72px;max-width:1216px}.more-articles__stories--desktop{margin:56px 48px 92px;max-width:1152px}.more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:16px}.more-articles__line{opacity:0.3;padding-top:16px;z-index:5}.more-articles__image-overlay{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.3);bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;z-index:1}.more-articles__image{opacity:0;transition:0.6s}.more-articles__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.more-articles__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.more-articles__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.more-articles__image--visible{opacity:1}.more-articles__story--two-columns,.more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:16px;width:310px}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n+3) .more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__stories--two-columns,.more-articles__stories--three-columns{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;padding:16px}.more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link,.more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link{pointer-events:all}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:50%}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2){padding-top:0}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:33%}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n+3){padding-top:0}.more-articles__heading--small{padding:20px 0 0 8px}.more-articles__heading--desktop{max-width:1264px;padding:38px 0 0 16px}.more-articles__heading--tablet{max-width:1264px;padding:24px 0 0 16px} .full-width-image-article{width:100%}.full-width-image-article__container{min-height:325px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.full-width-image-article__container--desktop{min-height:400px}.full-width-image-article__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text{align-items:center;color:#fff;left:50%;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label{display:inline-block;font-size:14.4px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:11px;text-transform:uppercase}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop{font-size:33.6px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author{font-size:16.6px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.13px;line-height:42px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:28px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop{margin-top:32px}.full-width-image-article__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__link{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .most-popular{background-color:#f9f9f9}.most-popular__inner{margin:0 auto;max-width:894px;padding:45px 24px 21px}.most-popular__inner--desktop{padding:47px 0 86px}.most-popular__header{color:#010101;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin:0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular__items{display:block}.most-popular__items--desktop{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:57px}.most-popular-item{box-sizing:border-box;padding-top:33px}.most-popular-item:last-of-type{margin-bottom:42px}.most-popular-item--desktop{padding:0 20px;width:calc(33.333%)}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+2){order:2;padding:38px 20px}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+3){order:3}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4){border-left:1px solid #dadada}.most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type{margin-bottom:0}.most-popular-item a{text-decoration:none}.most-popular-item__content{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;margin-top:5px}.most-popular-item__number{color:#cbcbcb;font-size:40px;font-style:italic;font-weight:bold;line-height:32px;margin:0 20px 0 0;width:25px}.most-popular-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 0 45px;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular-item__title{color:#2e2e2ecc;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.17px;line-height:22px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0}.most-popular-item__title--desktop{font-size:16px}.image-gallery-item{margin:26px 0}.image-gallery-item img{height:100%;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -3%;width:106%}@media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -16%;width:116%}}@media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -8%;width:108%}}@media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -42%;width:142%}}@media (min-width: 1366px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -55%;width:155%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin:20px 0;width:100%}@media (max-width: 599px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin-left:-3%;width:106%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{max-height:507px;min-height:463px}@media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{min-height:818px}} .StickyElementContent{transition:transform 0.5s}.StickyElementContent--is-undocked{left:0;position:fixed;top:0;width:100%}.StickyElementContent--is-hidden{transform:translateY(-100%)}.styled-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.styled-list__item{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:8px}.styled-list__item a{font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.styled-list__item--worklife a{color:#8beed9}.styled-list__item--future a{color:#ffc857}.styled-list__item--culture a{color:#472479}.styled-list__item--earth a{color:#002856}.styled-list__item--travel a{color:#002856}.styled-list__text{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-left:20px}.styled-list__dot{display:flex;margin-top:8px}.hero-header{align-items:center;display:flex}.hero-header__header{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#fff;font-size:38px;line-height:40px;margin:0;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7)}.hero-header__header--large{font-size:44px;line-height:48px}.hero-header__header--medium{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.hero-header__header--small{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.hero-header__header--black{color:#000;text-shadow:unset}.hero-header__header--grey{color:#adadad;text-shadow:unset}.error-page-header{position:relative}.error-page-header__headers{margin-bottom:16px;position:relative;z-index:1}.error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page-header__description{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:20px}.error-page-header__play-icon{margin-right:16px}.error-page-header__play-icon button{color:#adadad}.error-page-header__dot-label{display:flex} .error-page{position:relative}.error-page__container{margin-bottom:16px}.error-page__container--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page__title{margin-bottom:12px}.error-page__title--desktop{margin-bottom:24px} .article-title-card-rectangle{width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{opacity:1}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;transition:transform 0.5s ease;width:100%;will-change:transform}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.article-title-card-rectangle__image{margin-right:40px;max-height:390px;max-width:620px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:auto}.article-title-card-rectangle__image img{display:block;min-height:194px;min-width:344px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop{margin-right:0;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img{width:110%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article{margin-right:0}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--index{margin-right:0;max-width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article{margin-right:8px}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--index{align-items:initial;flex-direction:column}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box{background-color:#fff;margin-left:40px;padding:16px 22px 0;position:relative;top:-22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:20px;margin:0;text-transform:uppercase;width:fit-content}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index{color:#000;font-size:20px;font-weight:300;letter-spacing:-0.53px;line-height:30px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet{font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.74px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header{color:#2e2e2e;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:30px;margin-top:12px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop{font-size:28px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet{font-size:26px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index{color:#3d3d3d;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:16px;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px;margin-top:4px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:8px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet{margin:14px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{left:-40px;margin:0;padding:40px;top:0;transform:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet{padding:35px 22px 22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index{left:0;margin-right:40px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet{margin-left:50px;margin-right:50px;padding:30px 36px 0;top:-80px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop{margin-left:50px;max-width:560px;top:-88px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__link{color:#000;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container{display:block;max-width:252px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop{max-width:320px}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container{color:#4d4d4d;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text{display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin-top:27px;max-width:396px}.article-title-card-rectangle__read-more{display:inline-block;font-size:15px;letter-spacing:4px;margin:25px 16px 0 0;text-transform:uppercase}.article-title-card-rectangle__arrow{color:#bababa;display:inline-block;transform:rotate(-90deg)}.rectangle-story-group{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin:auto;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles{display:flex;flex:1;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet{justify-content:unset}.rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen{display:block}.rectangle-story-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-left:18px;padding-top:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--tablet{padding-left:20px;padding-top:22px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop{padding-left:22px;padding-top:24px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type{padding-left:8px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet{box-sizing:border-box;width:50%}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen{display:block;padding:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type{padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop{padding-left:10px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type{padding-right:8px}.rectangle-story-group__articles-container{margin:auto;max-width:950px;overflow:hidden;width:100%}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu{display:flex;justify-content:center;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;padding:16px 16px 24px}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop{border-left:1px solid #dadada;display:block;padding:0 0 0 16px;padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop{display:block;padding:0 0 0 8px}.rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop{display:flex}.rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet{display:flex}.article-labels{font-size:12px;line-height:16px;text-transform:uppercase}.article-labels a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:1px;text-decoration:none}.article-labels__text:first-child{font-weight:bold} .article-headline{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:43px 0}.article-headline .article-labels{text-align:center}.article-headline__line--short{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;text-align:center}.article-headline--tablet{padding:31px 0}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:24px}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;margin:0 15px 23px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile{padding:20px 0}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.63px;margin:0 15px 15px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:15px}.article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline__collection a{color:#242424}.article-headline__text{font-size:45px;letter-spacing:-1.26px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:44px} @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:900px;position:relative}.hero-image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}}@media only screen and (max-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:0;overflow:hidden;padding-top:56.25%;position:relative}.hero-image img{height:100%;left:0;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}}.loading-spinner{margin:0 auto;text-align:center}.loading-spinner__message{color:#002756;display:block;font-size:1.2rem;font-weight:bold;margin:12px 0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.loading-spinner__image{display:block;margin:0 auto;width:48px}.article-hero{height:672px;margin:0;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:100%}.article-hero--small-mobile{height:373px}.article-hero--mobile{height:486px}.article-hero--small-tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content{padding:60px 15px 0}.article-hero__content{margin:auto;max-width:1004px;pointer-events:none;position:relative;z-index:1}.article-hero--desktop{height:573px}.article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content{padding:50px 30px 0}.article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content{max-width:1276px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content{padding:60px 10px 0}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title{font-size:24px;line-height:30px;max-width:220px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line{margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:16px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels{margin-bottom:15px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta{line-height:22px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a{letter-spacing:3px}.article-hero__ambient-hidden{display:none}.article-hero__background-ambient{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;z-index:-1}.article-hero__background::after{background-image:linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0,0,0,0) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.06) 24%, rgba(0,0,0,0.2) 51%, rgba(0,0,0,0.32) 67%, rgba(0,0,0,0.51) 100%);content:'';height:100%;left:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-hero__background img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-hero__background--parallax img{transform:scale(1.1)}.article-hero a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:3px;text-decoration:none}.article-hero__content-cta{clear:both;font-size:16px;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:4px;line-height:20px;max-width:170px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 2px 4px rgba(0,0,0,0.5);text-transform:uppercase}.article-hero__content-cta a{display:flex;letter-spacing:4px}.article-hero__content-labels{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin-bottom:20px;pointer-events:all}.article-hero__content-line{background-color:#fff;border:0;display:block;float:left;height:1px;margin-bottom:18px;margin-right:300px;margin-top:25px;width:120px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow{position:relative}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::before{background:#fff;content:'';height:2px;left:5px;margin-top:-1px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;top:50%;transition:all 0.3s ease;width:20px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::after{border-right:2px solid #fff;border-top:2px solid #fff;content:'';display:inline-block;height:10px;left:16px;margin-top:5px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;transform:rotate(45deg);width:10px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before{opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after{margin-top:6px;opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow img{height:11px;margin-left:10px;width:19px}.article-hero__content-title{color:#fff;font-size:50px;line-height:54px;margin-top:0;max-width:450px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.7)}.article-hero__content-title a{letter-spacing:-1.32px}.article-hero__title-text{display:inline}.article-hero__content-title>a:hover>div,.article-hero__content-subtitle>a:hover{background-image:linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%);background-position:0 1.15em;background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:100% 2px}.article-hero__content-subtitle{clear:both;color:#fff;font-size:23px;font-weight:500;line-height:32px;margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:0;max-width:440px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.5)}.article-hero__content-subtitle a{letter-spacing:-1px}.article-hero__content-title--small{font-size:30px;line-height:35px}.article-hero__content-title--tablet{clear:both;font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:42px;max-width:264px}.article-hero__content-title--small a{letter-spacing:-0.63px}.article-hero__down-arrow{background-color:transparent;border:0;bottom:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;left:calc(50% - 29px);margin:0;margin-bottom:15px;padding:0;position:absolute;transform:scale(0.5)}.see-more-button-container{color:#fff}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button__inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase;transition:linear 0.6s}.see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px;transition:linear 0.3s}.see-more-button__inner-text{margin-right:24px}.see-more-button__inner:hover{color:#4a4a4a}.see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#4a4a4a;transform:rotate(90deg)} @media screen and (min-width: 1000px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:900px}}@media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:600px}}@media screen and (max-width: 600px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:300px}}.related-articles{position:relative}.related-articles__header{text-align:center;background-color:#000;color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:8px;text-transform:uppercase}.related-articles__header--bright{margin:20px 0 1.15ex;font-size:13px;background-color:#d8d8d8;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.7);letter-spacing:2px;line-height:3}.related-articles__list{list-style:none;padding:0 0 1.5ex 0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap}.related-articles__list li{flex-basis:100%;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;justify-content:flex-start;align-items:stretch;align-content:stretch}.related-articles__list li>div{flex:1}.related-articles__list.with-numbers{counter-reset:related-numbers;list-style-image:url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7);margin:0 35px}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before{counter-increment:related-numbers;content:counter(related-numbers);font-weight:bold;font-size:40px;align-self:flex-end;line-height:1.85;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.18);flex:0.1 0.1;flex-basis:1ex;padding-right:1ex;text-align:center;display:block}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li{margin-bottom:10px}.related-articles--wide-layout{background-color:initial;margin-top:20px}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li{max-width:100%}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type){border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li{max-width:49.8%}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}.related-article{align-items:stretch;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;box-sizing:border-box;font-size:16px;min-height:90px}.related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);flex:0.3 0.3;min-width:90px;max-width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);margin:0;display:block;line-height:0;order:-1}.related-article__image img{width:100%;border:0;margin:0 12px 0 0}.related-article__text{display:flex;flex-flow:column nowrap;width:100%;justify-content:flex-start;align-content:flex-start;position:relative;padding:12px 6px 12px 0;line-height:1.5}.related-article__text a{width:100%;padding-left:12px;display:flex;text-decoration:none}.related-article__text a+a{margin-top:1ex}.related-article__text br{display:none}.related-article__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);letter-spacing:-0.01em;flex:1}.related-article__title:hover{color:#2e2e2e}.related-article__collection{display:block;color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.5px;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.related-article__collection span{display:none}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article{margin:0.75ex 0}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover{background-color:#f9f9f9}.related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images a:hover{color:#000}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title{padding-left:10px}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 15px);max-width:calc(90px + 15px);margin:0}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img{border-radius:50%}.related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.75ex 1.75ex} .vertical-story-card-item{cursor:pointer;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;height:456px;margin:20px 10px;position:relative;width:297px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}.vertical-story-card-item img{width:100%}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{background-color:#fff;bottom:0;box-shadow:0 0 5px #d8d8d8;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:111px;justify-content:center;position:absolute;right:0;width:275px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{width:261px}}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:0.75rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0;padding:0 10px;text-transform:uppercase}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2{color:#3d3d3d;font-size:1.3125rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.06px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0 10px} .vertical-story-group{font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;position:relative}.vertical-story-group img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container{height:370px;position:relative;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container img{height:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-mask{background:linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0,0,0,0.6), rgba(0,0,0,0));bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container{top:120px}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:0;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:absolute;right:0;top:65px;width:70%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{margin-top:50px}}.vertical-story-group__container{display:grid;grid-auto-rows:minmax(auto, auto);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px));height:100%;justify-content:center;justify-items:center;margin-top:-210px;width:100%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__container{margin-top:-120px}}.beta-btn{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;line-height:12px;padding:0 7px;width:66px}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)} .location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase} .temperature-switcher{background:transparent;border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 0.2ex} .day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:0.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:0.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%} .weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0} .destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:0.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .image-card{position:relative}.image-card img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-card__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.image-card__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.image-card__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:90%}.image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}.image-card__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px} .filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848} .callout-box-card{background-color:#eaeaea;color:#4a4a4a;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:left}.callout-box-card img{height:100%;width:100%}.callout-box-card__container{padding:0.2rem 1.5rem}.callout-box-card__container h3{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin:1rem 0;text-transform:uppercase}.callout-box-card__container h4{font-size:28px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:35px}.callout-box-card__container .body{font-size:16px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px}.callout-box-card__container .body a{color:#4a4a4a;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-map{font:12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;overflow:hidden;position:relative;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(0,0,0,0)}.mapboxgl-canvas{position:absolute;left:0;top:0}.mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen{width:100%;height:100%}.mapboxgl-canary{background-color:salmon}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass{cursor:-webkit-grab;cursor:-moz-grab;cursor:grab;-moz-user-select:none;-webkit-user-select:none;-ms-user-select:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer{cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active{cursor:-webkit-grabbing;cursor:-moz-grabbing;cursor:grabbing}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pan-x pan-y}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pinch-zoom}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{position:absolute;pointer-events:none;z-index:2}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left{bottom:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right{right:0;bottom:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl{clear:both;pointer-events:auto;transform:translate(0)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 0 0 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 10px 0 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 0 10px 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 10px 10px 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group{border-radius:4px;background:#fff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){-moz-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);-webkit-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){box-shadow:0 0 0 2px ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button{width:29px;height:29px;display:block;padding:0;outline:none;border:0;box-sizing:border-box;background-color:transparent;cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid #ddd}.mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-position:50%}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner{border:0;padding:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled{cursor:not-allowed}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{opacity:.25}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible){box-shadow:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child{border-radius:4px 4px 0 0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child{border-radius:0 0 4px 4px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child{border-radius:inherit}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-webkit-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-webkit-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-moz-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-moz-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-moz-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-o-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-o-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-o-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-ms-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-ms-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}to{transform:rotate(1turn)}}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{width:88px;height:23px;margin:0 0 -4px -4px;display:block;background-repeat:no-repeat;cursor:pointer;overflow:hidden;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220802084757im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact{width:23px}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-color:transparent;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220802084757im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='3' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220802084757im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib{padding:0 5px;background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);margin:0}@media screen{.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact{min-height:20px;padding:0;margin:10px;position:relative;background-color:#fff;border-radius:3px 12px 12px 3px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 24px 2px 4px;visibility:visible;margin-top:6px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 4px 2px 24px;border-radius:12px 3px 3px 12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:block}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{content:"";cursor:pointer;position:absolute;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);width:24px;height:24px;box-sizing:border-box;border-radius:12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;left:0}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a{color:rgba(0,0,0,0.75);text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover{color:inherit;text-decoration:underline}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map{font-weight:700;margin-left:2px}.mapboxgl-attrib-empty{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-scale{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.75);font-size:10px;border:2px solid #333;border-top:#333;padding:0 5px;color:#333;box-sizing:border-box}.mapboxgl-popup{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;display:-webkit-flex;display:flex;will-change:transform;pointer-events:none}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column-reverse;flex-direction:column-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left{-webkit-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right{-webkit-flex-direction:row-reverse;flex-direction:row-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-tip{width:0;height:0;border:10px solid transparent;z-index:1}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-top:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-top:none;border-left:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-bottom:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-bottom:none;border-right:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-left:none;border-right-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-right:none;border-left-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button{position:absolute;right:0;top:0;border:0;border-radius:0 3px 0 0;cursor:pointer;background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-popup-content{position:relative;background:#fff;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);padding:10px 10px 15px;pointer-events:auto}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer *{pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:flex}.mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-marker{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;will-change:transform}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot,.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{background-color:#1da1f2;width:15px;height:15px;border-radius:50%}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{content:"";position:absolute;-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after{border-radius:50%;border:2px solid #fff;content:"";height:19px;left:-2px;position:absolute;top:-2px;width:19px;box-sizing:border-box;box-shadow:0 0 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.35)}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-webkit-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-ms-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale{background-color:#aaa}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after{display:none}.mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle{background-color:rgba(29,161,242,0.2);width:1px;height:1px;border-radius:100%}.mapboxgl-crosshair,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active{cursor:crosshair}.mapboxgl-boxzoom{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:0;height:0;background:#fff;border:2px dotted #202020;opacity:.5}@media print{.mapbox-improve-map{display:none}}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.mapContainer .mapTitle{background:transparent;color:#fff;display:block;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:1.1875em;margin-top:2%;min-width:25%;padding:2%;padding-bottom:0.375em;padding-left:8px;padding-right:16px;padding-top:0.375em;position:relative;text-align:center;z-index:100}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapTitle{font-size:2.4em}}.mapContainer .styled-line{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.mapContainer button{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.9);border:0;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;display:block;height:60px;outline:none;padding:2px;width:60px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{color:#589e50;font-size:2.5em;vertical-align:middle}.mapContainer button:hover{background-color:#f2f2f2}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer button{height:50px;width:50px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{font-size:2em}}.mapContainer .navigationPanel{align-items:flex-end;bottom:0;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;max-width:1200px;padding:10px;position:absolute;transform:translate(-50%, 0);width:100%}.mapContainer .zoomControls{background-color:#fff}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-radius:0;box-shadow:0 3px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.1) !important;cursor:default;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;max-width:300px;padding:0 !important;text-align:left}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:300px}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{max-width:190px}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:190px}}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{display:none !important}.mapContainer .map-marker svg{transition:all 0.1s ease-out}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker svg{height:52px;transform:scale(0.75)}}.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{transform:scale(1.3)}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{height:52px;transform:scale(1)}}.mapContainer__articleInfo{padding:0 18px}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin:0.725em 0}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);text-decoration:none}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:1.7em}}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:1.45em 0;text-decoration:none}html,body{margin:0;padding:0}#root *,#root *::before,#root *::after{box-sizing:border-box}#root article,#root aside,#root figure,#root footer,#root header,#root nav,#root section{display:block}body{background:#fff}.app__body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-height:100vh;overflow:visible;position:relative}.app__domestic-disclaimer{bottom:0;position:fixed;width:100%;z-index:5000}.main{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column} .navigation{display:none;margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:4px 16px 0;position:relative;z-index:1000}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.navigation{max-width:976px}}@media (min-width: 600px){.navigation{padding:0 16px 1px}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.navigation{max-width:990px}}@media (min-width: 300px) and (max-width: 399px){.navigation{padding:4px 8px}}.navigation>.nav-bar{background-color:unset;margin-top:1px}.navigation--display{display:block}.navigation-sticky--undocked{background-color:#fff;width:100%;z-index:10000}.StickyElement{position:relative;z-index:1501} .loader{display:none;height:100%;left:-99999px;opacity:0;position:absolute;top:0;transition:0.2s opacity;width:100%;z-index:1000}.loader--is-active{background:#fff;display:block;left:0;opacity:1}.loader__body{display:none;left:50%;position:fixed;top:50%;transform:translateX(-50%) translateY(-50%)}.loader__body--show-loader{display:block}.no-js .loader{display:none} .vertical-index{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column}.vertical-index__collection-swimlane{min-height:400px}.vertical-index .article-hero__content{margin-top:106px;padding-left:25px}.vertical-index__full-width-ad{background-color:#f1f1f1;padding:25px}.vertical-index__latest-articles{margin-top:35px}.vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile{margin-top:28px}.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:16px 0 0}@media (min-width: 1008px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{padding:16px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:990px;padding:8px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{max-width:976px}}.vertical-index__storyworks-section>div>div.bbccom_visible>div{background:#f1f1f1;display:inline-block;padding:8px !important}.vertical-index__full-width-ad .bbccom_standard_slot,.vertical-index__hero-article-leaderboard .bbccom_standard_slot{background-color:transparent !important} .latest-articles__container{margin-bottom:24px}.latest-articles__container--tablet{margin-bottom:26px}.latest-articles__container--desktop{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__articles{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle{margin:auto 8px}.latest-articles__editor{color:#020202;font-stretch:normal;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2.92px;margin:0 0 22px}.latest-articles__editor--tablet{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__editor--desktop{margin-bottom:36px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu>div{padding:0 8px 8px !important}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert>div{padding:0}.latest-articles__rectangle .bbccom_mpu_bottom{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px;padding-bottom:8px !important} </style> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/features_prod.js"></script> </head> <body> <div id="cookiePrompt"></div> <noscript><p style="position: absolute; top: -999em"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://a1.api.bbc.co.uk/hit.xiti?&col=1&from=p&ptag=js&s=598253&p=travel.page&x2=[responsive]&x3=[bbc_website]&x4=[en]&x7=[index-home]&x8=[reverb-3.5.0-nojs]&x11=[FEATURE_SITES_GNL]&x12=[GNL_TRAVEL]" height="1" width="1" alt=""></p></noscript><style>body.dotcom .feature-ad { display: block; }</style><div id="bbccom_interstitial_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_interstitial" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper" class="bbccom_display_none"></div> <div class="orbit-header-container" id="orbit-header"><header id="orb-banner" role="banner" aria-label="BBC-wide" class="orbit-header geo orbit-default orbit-language-en orbit-ux-v5"><div id="orb-header" class="orb-nav-pri orb-nav-pri-white orb-nav-empty" dir="ltr"><div class="orb-nav-pri-container b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-blocks"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/" id="homepage-link"><svg width="112" height="32" viewbox="0 0 112 32" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M8.99999 6.99999H15.7552C17.7458 6.99999 19.2878 7.39887 20.3811 8.19576C21.4741 8.99309 22.021 10.1385 22.021 11.6321C22.021 12.4881 21.8252 13.2308 21.4335 13.8601C21.0419 14.4894 20.4625 14.9891 19.6958 15.358C20.7563 15.7104 21.5682 16.2686 22.1311 17.0321C22.6941 17.796 22.9755 18.7232 22.9755 19.814C22.9755 20.8882 22.7021 21.8114 22.1555 22.5832C21.6087 23.3553 20.8296 23.9513 19.8182 24.3706C18.8062 24.7903 17.5909 25 16.1713 25H8.99999V6.99999ZM0 32H32V0H0V32ZM48.9999 6.99999H55.7551C57.7457 6.99999 59.2877 7.39887 60.3811 8.19576C61.4741 8.99309 62.0209 10.1385 62.0209 11.6321C62.0209 12.4881 61.8251 13.2308 61.4334 13.8601C61.0419 14.4894 60.4624 14.9891 59.6957 15.358C60.7562 15.7104 61.568 16.2686 62.1311 17.0321C62.694 17.796 62.9753 18.7232 62.9753 19.814C62.9753 20.8882 62.7019 21.8114 62.1554 22.5832C61.6087 23.3553 60.8297 23.9513 59.818 24.3706C58.8062 24.7903 57.5908 25 56.1712 25H48.9999V6.99999ZM39.9999 32H71.9999V0H39.9999V32ZM55.8775 17.2209H52.6469V22.0797H55.8286C56.9216 22.0797 57.7622 21.8743 58.3497 21.4629C58.9369 21.0518 59.2308 20.4602 59.2308 19.6881C59.2308 18.0435 58.1128 17.2209 55.8775 17.2209ZM55.4125 9.92026C57.3541 9.92026 58.3252 10.6338 58.3252 12.06C58.3252 12.7988 58.0763 13.3735 57.5787 13.7846C57.0808 14.196 56.3588 14.4014 55.4125 14.4014H52.6469V9.92026H55.4125ZM15.4126 9.92026C17.3542 9.92026 18.3253 10.6338 18.3253 12.06C18.3253 12.7988 18.0763 13.3735 17.5787 13.7846C17.0808 14.196 16.3588 14.4014 15.4126 14.4014H12.6469V9.92026H15.4126ZM15.8776 17.2209H12.6469V22.0797H15.8287C16.9217 22.0797 17.7623 21.8743 18.3497 21.4629C18.937 21.0518 19.2308 20.4602 19.2308 19.6881C19.2308 18.0435 18.1129 17.2209 15.8776 17.2209ZM100.391 24.8338C101.373 24.5956 102.237 24.2706 102.982 23.8592V20.4292C101.407 21.4001 99.6879 21.8851 97.8249 21.8851C96.6052 21.8851 95.5677 21.6549 94.7125 21.1942C93.857 20.7338 93.2048 20.0633 92.7562 19.1831C92.3071 18.3032 92.0829 17.238 92.0829 15.9876C92.0829 14.7377 92.3155 13.6766 92.7814 12.8045C93.2472 11.9327 93.9161 11.2665 94.7887 10.8058C95.6608 10.3454 96.7153 10.1148 97.9519 10.1148C98.8494 10.1148 99.705 10.2343 100.518 10.4726C101.331 10.7113 102.084 11.0609 102.779 11.5212V8.01737C102.017 7.62259 101.191 7.32259 100.302 7.1167C99.4128 6.91126 98.4683 6.80826 97.4691 6.80826C96.0292 6.80826 94.7292 7.02226 93.5691 7.44981C92.4088 7.87781 91.4136 8.4947 90.5839 9.30048C89.7537 10.1067 89.1187 11.0732 88.6783 12.1999C88.2377 13.3269 88.0176 14.5896 88.0176 15.9876C88.0176 17.4188 88.2295 18.7062 88.6529 19.8493C89.0761 20.9929 89.6859 21.9591 90.4822 22.7488C91.2782 23.5383 92.252 24.143 93.404 24.5624C94.5557 24.9819 95.8515 25.1917 97.2912 25.1917C98.375 25.1917 99.4085 25.0721 100.391 24.8338ZM112 32H79.9998V4.44444e-05H112V32Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Homepage</span></a></div><section><div class="orb-skip-links"><h2>Accessibility links</h2><ul><li><a href="#orb-modules"><span>Skip to content</span></a></li><li><a id="orb-accessibility-help" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/"><span>Accessibility Help</span></a></li></ul></div></section><div class="orbit-header-left"><div class="orbit-module-idcta"><div id="idcta-statusbar" class="orbit-header-account" data-bbc-container="id-cta" data-bbc-event-type="click" data-bbc-ignore-views="1" data-bbc-metadata="{"id-cta-type": "statusbar-orbit"}" data-bbc-source="responsive_web" data-bbc-title="id-cta-sign-in"><a id="idcta-link" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://account.bbc.com/account"><span id="idcta-username">BBC Account</span></a></div><script type="text/javascript">require(['idcta/statusbar'], function (statusbar) {new statusbar.Statusbar({id: 'idcta-statusbar', publiclyCacheable: true});});</script></div><div class="orbit-module-notifications"><div class="orbit-module-notifications"><a class="orbit-header-notifications" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/notifications"><svg width="23" height="24" viewbox="0 0 23 24" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M19.35 15.1883C19.8562 15.7235 20.6674 16.0612 21.7837 16.1996L23 16.3481V18.6667H0V16.3481L1.21634 16.1996C2.35241 16.0612 3.16834 15.7235 3.66602 15.1883C4.16276 14.6532 4.41113 13.8413 4.41113 12.7517V9.71992C4.41113 7.97614 4.87764 6.53868 5.81068 5.40938C6.74371 4.28008 8.06204 3.54752 9.76567 3.20983V0H13.2343V3.20983C14.938 3.54752 16.2553 4.28008 17.1893 5.40938C18.1224 6.53868 18.5889 7.97614 18.5889 9.71992V12.7517C18.5889 13.8413 18.8429 14.6532 19.35 15.1883ZM11.4996 24C10.4854 24 9.66944 23.6713 9.05088 23.0122C8.43232 22.353 8.12351 21.5721 8.12351 20.6667H14.8767C14.8767 21.5721 14.5669 22.353 13.9493 23.0122C13.3307 23.6713 12.5139 24 11.4996 24Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Notifications</span></a></div></div></div><nav class="orbit-header-links domestic"><ul><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul></nav><nav class="orbit-header-links international"><ul><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></nav><div class="orbit-header-right"><a aria-label="All BBC destinations menu" class="orbit-header-more" href="#orbit-more-drawer" id="orbit-more-button"><svg class="orbit-header-more-desktop" width="20" height="4" viewbox="0 0 20 4" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g id="Overflow" transform="translate(-14.000000, -22.000000)"><path d="M18,22 L18,26 L14,26 L14,22 L18,22 Z M34,22 L34,26 L30,26 L30,22 L34,22 Z M26,22 L26,26 L22,26 L22,22 L26,22 Z" id="More"></path></g></svg><svg class="orbit-header-more-mobile" width="24" height="22" viewbox="0 0 20 19" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M0 3.63393H20V0H0V3.63393ZM0 10.9018H20V7.26787H0V10.9018ZM0 18.5H20V14.8661H0V18.5Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">More menu</span></a><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-search" role="search"> <a id="orbit-search-button" class="orbit-search__button" aria-expanded="false" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search?scope=all" title="Search BBC"><span class="ux-v4">Search BBC</span> <span class="ux-v5"><svg class="orbit-search-button-icon-only" width="28" height="29" viewbox="0 0 28 29" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><path d="M11,-0.0001 C17.0751322,-0.0001 22,4.92476775 22,10.9999 C22,13.5276632 21.1473793,15.8562862 19.7140404,17.7138664 L28,26 L25,29 L16.518046,20.5178339 C14.8960209,21.4602385 13.0110328,21.9999 11,21.9999 C4.92486775,21.9999 0,17.0750322 0,10.9999 C0,4.92476775 4.92486775,-0.0001 11,-0.0001 Z M11,2.5 C6.30557963,2.5 2.5,6.30557963 2.5,11 C2.5,15.6944204 6.30557963,19.5 11,19.5 C15.6944204,19.5 19.5,15.6944204 19.5,11 C19.5,6.30557963 15.6944204,2.5 11,2.5 Z"></path></svg><svg class="orbit-search-button-icon-with-text" width="15" height="16" viewbox="0 0 15 16" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><path d="M6,-5.32907052e-15 C9.3137085,-5.32907052e-15 12,2.6862915 12,6 C12,7.43892143 11.4934776,8.75953821 10.6490096,9.79327337 L15,14.24 L13.2782609,16 L8.72578477,11.3465317 C7.90789326,11.7643456 6.98146665,12 6,12 C2.6862915,12 -1.687539e-14,9.3137085 -1.687539e-14,6 C-1.687539e-14,2.6862915 2.6862915,-5.32907052e-15 6,-5.32907052e-15 Z M6,1.5 C3.51471863,1.5 1.5,3.51471863 1.5,6 C1.5,8.48528137 3.51471863,10.5 6,10.5 C8.48528137,10.5 10.5,8.48528137 10.5,6 C10.5,3.51471863 8.48528137,1.5 6,1.5 Z"></path></svg><span>Search BBC</span></span></a> </div></div></div></div></header><div id="orbit-drawer-container" class="orbit-drawer-container"></div><section class="orbit-more-drawer geo orbit-default orbit-language-en b-r b-g-p" id="orbit-more-drawer"><div class="orbit-more-drawer-content"><ul class="more-domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="more-international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul><a href="#" class="orbit-more-drawer-close" role="button"><svg width="32" height="32" viewbox="0 0 28 28" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M7.48651 5.71054L5.79834 7.39871L12.3428 14.0225L5.81992 20.6229L7.46434 22.2673L13.9778 15.6768L20.5123 22.2895H20.5135L22.2017 20.6007L15.6567 13.9781L22.1795 7.37712L20.5351 5.73271L14.0216 12.3232L7.48651 5.71054Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Close menu</span></a></div></section></div>  <div id="orb-modules"> <div id="root"><div id="ad-portal"></div><nav class="navigation navigation--display"><div class="nav-bar"><div class="nav-build-bar nav-build-bar--desktop"><div class="nav-build-bar__branding nav-build-bar__branding--desktop"><a class="branding branding--travel branding--large" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span class="branding__icon branding__icon--travel branding__icon--large"><svg version="1.1" id="Layer_1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 84.8 15.8" style="enable-background:new 0 0 84.8 15.8;" xml:space="preserve"><style type="text/css"> .st0{fill:#FFFFFF;} </style><g><path class="st0" d="M0,0h13.1v2.4H7.9v13.4H5.1V2.4H0V0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M18.1,9.7v6h-2.8V0h5.4c2,0,3.6,0.4,4.7,1.3c1.1,0.8,1.6,2,1.6,3.6c0,1-0.3,1.9-0.8,2.7 C25.7,8.3,25,8.9,24,9.2c0.7,1.1,1.4,2.1,2.1,3.2s1.3,2.2,2,3.3h-3.2c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.2,0-0.4,0-0.6,0 H18.1z M18.1,2.2v5.3h2.5c1.2,0,2.1-0.2,2.8-0.6c0.6-0.4,0.9-1.1,0.9-2s-0.3-1.6-0.9-2s-1.5-0.6-2.7-0.6h-2.6V2.2z"></path><path class="st0" d="M42.2,15.8c-0.2-0.6-0.4-1.3-0.7-1.9c-0.2-0.6-0.5-1.3-0.7-1.9h-6.9c-0.2,0.6-0.5,1.3-0.7,1.9 c-0.2,0.6-0.4,1.3-0.7,1.9h-3c1-2.8,2-5.5,3.1-8.1C33.7,5,34.8,2.5,35.9,0h3c1.1,2.6,2.2,5.3,3.3,7.9s2.1,5.3,3.1,7.9H42.2z M34.7,9.6h5.2c-0.4-1.2-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4c-0.4-1.1-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4C36.9,3.9,36.4,5,36,6.2C35.6,7.3,35.2,8.5,34.7,9.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M58.6,0c-1,2.6-2,5.3-3,7.9s-2.1,5.3-3.1,7.9h-3c-1.1-2.6-2.1-5.2-3.2-7.9c-1-2.6-2-5.3-3-7.9h3 c0.8,2.2,1.5,4.3,2.3,6.5s1.6,4.3,2.4,6.5c0.8-2.1,1.6-4.3,2.4-6.5c0.8-2.2,1.5-4.3,2.3-6.5H58.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M60.7,0h10.6v2.4h-7.7v4.1h6.9v2.4h-6.9v4.6h8.2v2.4h-11L60.7,0L60.7,0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M74.3,0h2.8v13.4h7.8v2.4H74.3V0z"></path></g></svg></span></a></div><div id="nav-build-bar__links" class="nav-build-bar__links"><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culture-identity"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Culture</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Food</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Discovery</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/destinations"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Destinations</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Collections</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/http://bbc.in/1JY27sX" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">About us</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.in/3zDE6sk" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">50 Reasons to Love the World</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.in/3jXnK59" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Untold America</p></a></div><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav"><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav-button"><button class="open-nav" aria-label="Open more navigation" aria-haspopup="true" aria-expanded="false" id="open-nav"><div class="open-nav__label"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">More</p></div><div class="open-nav__icon"><div class="burger-nav gelicon--menu burger-nav--travel"></div></div></button></div></div></div></div></nav><div class="app__body"><div class="loader loader--is-active"><div class="loader__body loader__body--show-loader"><div class="loading-spinner"><span class="loading-spinner__image"><span class="spinner--travel"><svg class="spinner__image" viewbox="0 0 32 32" id="gel-icon-loading" width="100%" height="100%"><path d="M29.8 8l-3.5 2c1 1.8 1.6 3.8 1.6 6 0 6.6-5.4 12-12 12S4 22.6 4 16 9.4 4 16 4V0C7.2 0 0 7.2 0 16s7.2 16 16 16 16-7.2 16-16c0-2.9-.8-5.6-2.2-8z"></path></svg></span></span><span class="loading-spinner__message b-reith-sans-font">Loading</span></div></div></div><main class="main"><div class="vertical-index"><div class="vertical-index__article-hero"><div data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="North America's sacred trio of foods" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><span>World's Table</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/food-drink">Food & Drink</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america"><div class="article-hero__title-text"> North America's sacred trio of foods </div><hr class="article-hero__content-line"/></a></div><div class="article-hero__content-cta"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america">Read More<div class="article-hero__content-right-arrow"></div></a></div></div><button tabindex="0" class="article-hero__down-arrow"><img src="data:image/png;base64,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" alt="down-arrow"/></button><div class="article-hero__background"><picture><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0cqfvhk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0cqfvhk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cqfvhk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cqfvhk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The "three sisters" – corn, squash and beans – are essential to the Huron-Wendat diet (Credit: North Wind Picture Archives/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cqfvhk.jpg" alt="The "three sisters" – corn, squash and beans – are essential to the Huron-Wendat diet (Credit: North Wind Picture Archives/Alamy)" id="article-hero-img-js"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Editor's Picks</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A priceless treasure hidden by monks" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cpv5tg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cpv5tg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cpv5tg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cpv5tg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cpv5tg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cpv5tg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cpv5tg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cpv5tg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Tracey Croke)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cpv5tg.jpg" alt="(Credit: Tracey Croke)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Discovery</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">A priceless treasure hidden by monks</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Tracey Croke</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="France's 'Venice of the North'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cndv10.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cndv10.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cndv10.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cndv10.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cndv10.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cndv10.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cndv10.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cndv10.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Liz Garnett/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cndv10.jpg" alt="(Credit: Liz Garnett/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><span>Adventure & Experience</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens"><span>France's 'Venice of the North'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Norman Miller</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A lost city that mysteriously vanished" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cp6jk7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cp6jk7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cp6jk7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cp6jk7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cp6jk7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cp6jk7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cp6jk7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cp6jk7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy/ WHPics)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cp6jk7.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy/ WHPics)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/lost-civilisations"><span>Lost Civilisations</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished"><span>A lost city that mysteriously vanished</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Andrew Lofthouse</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Ghee: 'The purest food on Earth'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cnzv0t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cnzv0t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cnzv0t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cnzv0t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cnzv0t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cnzv0t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cnzv0t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cnzv0t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="In India, ghee was considered the purest offering to the gods (Credit: subodhsathe/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cnzv0t.jpg" alt="In India, ghee was considered the purest offering to the gods (Credit: subodhsathe/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><span>World's Table</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth"><span>Ghee: 'The purest food on Earth'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Aysha Imtiaz</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="World's Table" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container full-width-image-article__container--desktop"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" alt="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">Changing how the world thinks about food</span></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop">World's Table</h2></a></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The empire the Aztecs couldn't conquer" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ckc955.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ckc955.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ckc955.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ckc955.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ckc955.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ckc955.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ckc955.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ckc955.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The yácatas of Tzintzuntzan are uniquely round and made of volcanic stone – perhaps the most intact relics of the P'urhépechas (Credit:Brian Overcast / Alamy Stock Photo)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ckc955.jpg" alt="The yácatas of Tzintzuntzan are uniquely round and made of volcanic stone – perhaps the most intact relics of the P'urhépechas (Credit:Brian Overcast / Alamy Stock Photo)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/lost-civilisations"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Lost Civilisations</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The empire the Aztecs couldn't conquer</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Stephanie Mendez</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The UK village that you pay to enter" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.jpg" alt="(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span>Discovery</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen"><span>The UK village that you pay to enter</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Amanda Ruggeri</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Why top chefs are leaving Paris" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.jpg" alt="Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><span>World's Table</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside"><span>Why top chefs are leaving Paris</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Emily Monaco</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="North America's 'Western Pompeii'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Paulacobleigh/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.jpg" alt="(Credit: Paulacobleigh/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span>Discovery</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village"><span>North America's 'Western Pompeii'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Brendan Sainsbury</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__most-popular-container"><div class="most-popular"><div class="most-popular__inner most-popular__inner--desktop"><h2 class="most-popular__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-800">Most Popular</h2><div class="most-popular__items most-popular__items--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="How a drink fuelled a sea-faring people" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::0"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">1</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">How a drink fuelled a sea-faring people</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Scotland's rare seaweed-eating sheep" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">2</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Scotland's rare seaweed-eating sheep</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The world's oldest sourdough?" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">World's Table</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">3</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The world's oldest sourdough?</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Brazil's answer to the Sichuan pepper" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">4</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Brazil's answer to the Sichuan pepper</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Europe's island that swaps nationalities" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/places-that-dont-belong"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Places That Don't Belong</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">5</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Europe's island that swaps nationalities</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The UK's heritage apple renaissance" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::5"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Forgotten Foods</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">6</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The UK's heritage apple renaissance</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The taste of Tobago in just one dish" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::6"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culinary-roots"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Culinary Roots</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">7</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The taste of Tobago in just one dish</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The mountain that helps power Britain" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::7"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">8</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The mountain that helps power Britain</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The last of Ireland's rare wild salmon" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::8"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">World's Table</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">9</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The last of Ireland's rare wild salmon</h2></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = {"router":{"location":{"pathname":"\u002Ftravel","search":"","hash":"","state":undefined,"key":"ee5wue"},"action":"POP"},"config":{"version":"2.2.8","adsEnabled":false,"domain":"www.bbc.com","env":"live","clientApiUrl":"\u002Fdata","faqsUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffaqs","mapboxAccessToken":"pk.eyJ1IjoiYmJjd29ybGR3aWRlIiwiYSI6ImNpemp2dWZ0OTAwNGkyd3I0bHV6ems3eDMifQ.Vxn6FQ8xNwEltlVVvwpCjw","imageRecipe":{"recipePrefix":"live\u002F"},"analytics":{"ati":{"destination":"FEATURE_SITES_GNL","producer":"GNL_HOMEPAGE"},"chartbeat":{"uid":50924,"domain":"bbc.co.uk"}},"entityRouterProtocol":"https","swimlanes":true,"future":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Future","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_FUTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCFuture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbcfuture_official","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official"}},"facebookPageIds":"279678448760878"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"BBC Future Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp08gp0tv.jpg"},"future-planet":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp0836dcl.jpg","collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqy6.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09sbm5d.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.future","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"future"},"metaData":{"description":"You’ll find stories on BBC Future on almost every topic that matters: psychology, food, climate change, health, social trends, technology and more.","titleDefault":"BBC Future","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_FUTURE"}}},"worklife":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCWorklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCWorklife"},"instagram":{"username":"BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"}},"facebookPageIds":"133536249999517"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"image"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06dkks1.jpg"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.worklife","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"worklife"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest insight and advice from BBC Worklife: careers, milestones, leadership, personal finance, economy, future of work, wellness, professional life abroad - everything you need to upgrade yourself.","titleDefault":"BBC Worklife","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CAPITAL"}},"swimlanes":[{"id":"office-space","title":"Office Space","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp00sm03v.jpg"},{"id":"work-ethic","title":"Work Ethic","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06yflr4.jpg"}]},"culture":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_CULTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCCulture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCCulture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_culture"}},"facebookPageIds":"237388053065908"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"BBC Culture Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp08bmlwb.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.culture","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"culture"},"metaData":{"description":"Covering the latest in global arts and culture in all its forms, BBC Culture gives an international view of film and TV, books, art, music and style.","titleDefault":"BBC Culture","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CULTURE"}}},"travel":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_TRAVEL"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCTravel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel"}},"facebookPageIds":"147105585468223"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"BBC Travel Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp099tg7y.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"destination":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq1x8.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq221.jpg","title":"Tag background image"},"destinationImageCard":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F2000x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination Image Card Background"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.travel","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"travel"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing.","titleDefault":"BBC Travel","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_TRAVEL"}}},"moduleId":"travel","isUk":false,"ua":{"ua":"Amazon CloudFront","browser":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined,"major":undefined},"engine":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"os":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"device":{"vendor":undefined,"model":undefined,"type":undefined},"cpu":{"architecture":undefined}},"cacheExpiryMs":600000},"entities":{"authors":{"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk","_id":"62df80cd43d9f458711cdc4c","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Diane Selkirk","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:53:20.299818Z","entity":"author","guid":"a3d45370-1190-47db-a0d4-2c27dc1d65ba","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:26:13.515373Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","_id":"62df80d343d9f4573c15b354","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Tracey Croke","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-03-18T16:24:09.435167Z","entity":"author","guid":"9b6dd468-093b-4401-bf94-5614595c920d","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-18T16:24:09.435167Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","_id":"62df7f9443d9f4163365a695","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Norman Miller","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:30:00.400422Z","entity":"author","guid":"132d35c4-5a8c-4d2e-b20d-20f2189c3e2e","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:12:46.212391Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fandrew-lofthouse":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fandrew-lofthouse","_id":"62df80f643d9f45710790fe3","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Andrew Lofthouse","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:35:22.782734Z","entity":"author","guid":"15c8f764-a8f5-4918-b149-8749acc563a3","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fandrew-lofthouse","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:04:08.413139Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fandrew-lofthouse","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","_id":"62df818043d9f46da30db44b","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Aysha Imtiaz","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:39:04.874941Z","entity":"author","guid":"0fdc83b3-b88c-421e-8656-eee4b79d4cab","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:08:40.326701Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-mendez":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-mendez","_id":"62df7f5e43d9f458590f1335","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Stephanie Mendez","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-07-06T22:51:58.065378Z","entity":"author","guid":"89ef29a2-7bb1-476f-b692-8ac9d95e7b81","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-mendez","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-06T22:51:58.065378Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-mendez","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","_id":"62df80fb43d9f46d9a16f716","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Amanda Ruggeri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:33:21.643474Z","entity":"author","guid":"7abb1742-292c-4dbf-823a-8ddb39910193","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:01:26.777969Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","_id":"62df806043d9f4573f554b27","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Emily Monaco","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:55:51.252365Z","entity":"author","guid":"4d0b8c4c-b91a-4a53-a177-fed62dae1de3","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:29:22.861362Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","_id":"62df80f643d9f458423ab156","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Brendan Sainsbury","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:41:55.683795Z","entity":"author","guid":"ff86fa35-cb13-4c06-bce5-8e42351a0baf","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:12:13.067426Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","_id":"62df7f2343d9f444fc3d1439","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Mike MacEacheran","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:26:28.262365Z","entity":"author","guid":"b0441cca-befe-4564-aa60-a9a0d53861c2","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:08:16.545077Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkirsten-henton":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkirsten-henton","_id":"62df7f9543d9f46d1443afd4","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Kirsten Henton","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:14:35.816939Z","entity":"author","guid":"1ec62457-5121-4ca5-8878-11daacb017b2","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkirsten-henton","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:53:13.135389Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkirsten-henton","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-feinstein":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-feinstein","_id":"62df80a943d9f41b075efdc9","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Paul Feinstein","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-07-01T14:58:58.556678Z","entity":"author","guid":"7a56336b-d2bb-4a7f-ab6d-bbea3487be14","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-feinstein","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-01T14:58:58.556678Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-feinstein","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","_id":"62df80b143d9f45710790fac","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Jacob Mardell","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-07-07T13:07:16.704115Z","entity":"author","guid":"f7fda411-340b-4b79-9be2-67e955bc9dbe","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-07T13:07:16.704115Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","_id":"62df816243d9f45749671e7f","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Abigail Blasi","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:29:57.701384Z","entity":"author","guid":"4ff57b95-d3c1-4b79-acde-20b999c06c36","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T08:57:00.868797Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan","_id":"62df7fcb43d9f4292f26bb18","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Kate Ryan","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-06-28T20:34:38.667709Z","entity":"author","guid":"eed0577a-b14d-4ae8-a769-b63130b0bfb1","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-28T20:34:38.667709Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306}},"collections":{"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","_id":"62df7ee643d9f46d911c7bb0","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"premium-collection","description":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","isPremiumCollection":true,"moreArticles":null,"name":"World's Table","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"E85A24","title":"World's Table","creationDateTime":"2021-10-04T14:37:13.413699Z","entity":"collection","guid":"22b9e025-56f1-4361-8866-c8e88e53347d","id":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-12T11:33:55.483668Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","_id":"62df80d743d9f46d866b813c","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Immerse yourself in local food, drink, traditions and customs, while experiencing a shared humanity.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Food & Hospitality","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Food & Hospitality","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:50.540524Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e61b2885-5eb8-45f1-a6eb-96b493b11e7f","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:52:25.529035Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","_id":"62df802443d9f42c861a899a","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"See where old and new intersect, often with technology and innovation, taking travellers to places they’ve never experienced before.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Discovery","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Discovery","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:38.257106Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2bde5558-58fd-40d9-acb8-3f69d31e26d2","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:55.231739Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","_id":"62df7f4e43d9f42c880fb443","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Journey to all corners of the planet to uncover secret worlds, lost treasures and extraordinary locations – and meet the people along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Adventure & Experience","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Adventure & Experience","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:56:48.853744Z","entity":"collection","guid":"7a457878-4baf-4a02-82b9-0b3f407bd073","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:48:52.772915Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations","_id":"62df819543d9f46d9958eb6f","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Delve into little-known facts about past worlds, dispelling any false myths and narratives that have previously surrounded them.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Lost Civilisations","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Lost Civilisations","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T19:46:05.329191Z","entity":"collection","guid":"c135395a-8939-494e-bdab-7b0d8a2d1644","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-06T20:42:33.422339Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","_id":"62df7f7643d9f46d911c7c51","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"We delve into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Places That Don't Belong","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Places That Don't Belong","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:59:10.060023Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e69b895a-d1bb-4068-ae36-59f622cb6516","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:53:56.665784Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","_id":"62df7fad43d9f46da30db29f","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn where there's hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Forgotten Foods","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Forgotten Foods","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T19:03:38.714836Z","entity":"collection","guid":"dca8d01c-e559-4723-9d78-4685b64af0ff","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T15:15:56.302477Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","_id":"62df811343d9f4572373273d","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Connect to the rare local foods and dishes that are woven into a place's heritage.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Culinary Roots","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Culinary Roots","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:22.051797Z","entity":"collection","guid":"51bd3fe3-fcbc-4513-9193-7b2ec1deff37","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:37.258813Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels","_id":"62df7fb643d9f46d891342b9","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate the ingenious technological solutions that are making the world a better place.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Modern Engineering Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Modern Engineering Marvels","creationDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:17:35.97086Z","entity":"collection","guid":"89453869-86d7-45b8-9f29-620ce946d556","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:17:35.97086Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","_id":"62df806843d9f46da86e4c1a","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn about the latest destinations opening their borders and explore the exciting things travellers can do there – safely and sustainably.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"As the World Opens","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"As the World Opens","creationDateTime":"2022-03-29T16:11:02.829341Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2db5e3d8-8ac2-4731-a609-a20d42b39ec1","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:03:08.196053Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","image":["p0by5vj0"],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","_id":"62df80bb43d9f46d1443b10d","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and be reminded that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"The Open Road","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"The Open Road","creationDateTime":"2022-02-18T17:00:25.71395Z","entity":"collection","guid":"fbda3990-fef0-4b0c-a357-3a767de76d98","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-05T17:08:16.806302Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","image":["p0bpz96n"],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","_id":"62df805a43d9f46d3e437af1","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Ancient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-07-16T02:28:12.584423Z","entity":"collection","guid":"19882d18-7b3e-4707-9881-6c30dc4841f0","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:03.496805Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","image":["p09pldr6"],"cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307}},"images":{"p0cqfvjv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cqfvjv","_id":"62e8105743d9f46da95699ed","copyright":"Maggie Sully\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcq\u002Ffv\u002Fp0cqfvjv.jpg","sourceWidth":1280,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Maggie Sully\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The \"three sisters\" are planted together with a technique called intercropping (Credit: Maggie Sully\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"The \"three sisters\" are planted together with a technique called intercropping","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvjv.jpg","title":"The \"three sisters\" are planted together with a technique called intercropping","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cqfvjv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvjv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"p0cqfvln":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cqfvln","_id":"62e8105843d9f46da95699ee","copyright":"All Canada Photos\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcq\u002Ffv\u002Fp0cqfvln.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: All Canada Photos\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The Huron-Wendat Museum houses the Ekionkiestha' National Longhouse (Credit: All Canada Photos\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"The Huron-Wendat Museum houses the Ekionkiestha' National Longhouse","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvln.jpg","title":"The Huron-Wendat Museum houses the Ekionkiestha' National Longhouse","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cqfvln","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvln.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"p0cqfwbm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cqfwbm","_id":"62e8105843d9f44500213c66","copyright":"Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcq\u002Ffw\u002Fp0cqfwbm.jpg","sourceWidth":1371,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Marc de Passorio prepares sagamité (Credit: Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations)","synopsisShort":"Chef Marc de Passorio prepares sagamité","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfwbm.jpg","title":"Chef Marc de Passorio prepares sagamité","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cqfwbm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfwbm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"p0cqfvv4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cqfvv4","_id":"62e8105843d9f44500213c67","copyright":"Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcq\u002Ffv\u002Fp0cqfvv4.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Marc de Passorio’s version of \"three sisters\" sagamité (Credit: Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations)","synopsisShort":"Chef Marc de Passorio’s version of \"three sisters\" sagamité","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvv4.jpg","title":"Chef Marc de Passorio’s version of \"three sisters\" sagamité","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cqfvv4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvv4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"p0cqfvhk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cqfvhk","_id":"62e8105843d9f44500213c65","copyright":"North Wind Picture Archives\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcq\u002Ffv\u002Fp0cqfvhk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: North Wind Picture Archives\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The \"three sisters\" – corn, squash and beans – are essential to the Huron-Wendat diet (Credit: North Wind Picture Archives\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"The \"three sisters\" – corn, squash and beans – are essential to the Huron-Wendat diet","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvhk.jpg","title":"The \"three sisters\" – corn, squash and beans – are essential to the Huron-Wendat diet","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cqfvhk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cqfvhk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"p0cpv5wq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cpv5wq","_id":"62e3440843d9f4570f24c685","copyright":"National Museum of Ireland","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2588,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002Fv5\u002Fp0cpv5wq.jpg","sourceWidth":4601,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: National Museum of Ireland)","synopsisMedium":"Uncovered in 1980, the Derrynaflan Hoard is one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art (Credit: National Museum of Ireland)","synopsisShort":"Derrynaflan Hoard collection of Irish altar vessels","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv5wq.jpg","title":"Uncovered in 1980, the Derrynaflan Hoard is one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cpv5wq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv5wq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"p0cpv611":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cpv611","_id":"62e3440843d9f46d834bf783","copyright":"National Museum of Ireland","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3750,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002Fv6\u002Fp0cpv611.jpg","sourceWidth":6666,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: National Museum of Ireland)","synopsisMedium":"The silver chalice and paten (pictured) are decorated with outstanding examples of ancient Celtic goldsmithing (Credit: National Museum of Ireland)","synopsisShort":"Detail of filigree on paten of the Derrynaflan Hoard","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv611.jpg","title":"The silver chalice and paten are decorated with outstanding examples of ancient Celtic goldsmithing","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cpv611","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv611.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"p0cpv62d":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cpv62d","_id":"62e3440843d9f4570f24c686","copyright":"Tracey Croke","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1407,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002Fv6\u002Fp0cpv62d.jpg","sourceWidth":2500,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisMedium":"Derrynaflan Island is surrounded by the Bog of Lurgoe's swampy peatlands (Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisShort":"View of Derrynaflan Island over bogland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv62d.jpg","title":"Derrynaflan Island is surrounded by the Bog of Lurgoe's swampy peatlands (Credit: Tracey Croke)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cpv62d","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv62d.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"p0cpv63h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cpv63h","_id":"62e3440843d9f46d834bf784","copyright":"Tracey Croke","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1406,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002Fv6\u002Fp0cpv63h.jpg","sourceWidth":2500,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisMedium":"The island can be accessed via a newly waymarked 9km loop from the Horse and Jockey Hotel in Derrynaflan (Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisShort":"Woman walking on path through bogland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv63h.jpg","title":"The island can be accessed via a newly waymarked 9km loop from the Horse and Jockey Hotel in Derrynaflan (Credit: Tracey Croke)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cpv63h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv63h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"p0cpv5tg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cpv5tg","_id":"62e3440743d9f46d834bf782","copyright":"Tracey Croke","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1407,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002Fv5\u002Fp0cpv5tg.jpg","sourceWidth":2500,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisShort":"Ruined abbey on Derrynaflan Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv5tg.jpg","title":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cpv5tg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cpv5tg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"p0cndtwp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cndtwp","_id":"62e30f0243d9f46d9838b909","copyright":"Claude Thibault\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2330,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fdt\u002Fp0cndtwp.jpg","sourceWidth":4143,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Claude Thibault\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The slender channels of the Hortillonnages are connected by bridges and traversed by boat (Credit: Claude Thibault\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Bridge with white wrought iron railings over water in the Hortillonnages","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtwp.jpg","title":"The slender channels of the Hortillonnages are connected by bridges and traversed by boat (Credit: Claude Thibault\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cndtwp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtwp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"p0cndtqb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cndtqb","_id":"62e30f0243d9f46d9838b908","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1836,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fdt\u002Fp0cndtqb.jpg","sourceWidth":3264,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"On Saturdays, produce from the Hortillonnages is sold at an outdoor food market at Place Parmentier (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Beetroot, celeriac and potatoes from the Hortillonnages on sale at markets","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtqb.jpg","title":"On Saturdays, produce from the Hortillonnages is sold at an outdoor food market at Place Parmentier (Credit: Norman Miller)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cndtqb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtqb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"p0cndtnv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cndtnv","_id":"62e30f0243d9f46d947e048b","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2250,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fdt\u002Fp0cndtnv.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"Art by Patrice Dion livens up a trail on an island in the Hortillonnages (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Artwork of a leaf printed on fabric in the Hortillonnages","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtnv.jpg","title":"Art by Patrice Dion livens up a trail on an island in the Hortillonnages (Credit: Norman Miller)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cndtnv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtnv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"p0cndtm5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cndtm5","_id":"62e30f0243d9f46d9838b90a","copyright":"Visit Amiens","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":5000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fdt\u002Fp0cndtm5.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Visit Amiens)","synopsisMedium":"The Musée des Hortillonnages provides insights into the lives of hortillons via an extensive collection of material, equipment and photos (Credit: Visit Amiens)","synopsisShort":"Girl in front of exhibit at the Musée des Hortillonnages","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtm5.jpg","title":"The Musée des Hortillonnages provides insights into the lives of hortillons","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cndtm5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndtm5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"p0cndv10":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cndv10","_id":"62e30f0243d9f46d9838b907","copyright":"Liz Garnett\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3240,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fdv\u002Fp0cndv10.jpg","sourceWidth":5760,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Liz Garnett\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Liz Garnett\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Moored boats and flowers in the floating gardens of Les Hortillonnages","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndv10.jpg","title":"(Credit: Liz Garnett\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cndv10","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cndv10.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"p0cp0vlz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp0vlz","_id":"62e0377943d9f46da956910b","copyright":"","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F0v\u002Fp0cp0vlz.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Image credit: Getty\u002FCavan Images)","synopsisMedium":"\"The discovery of Cancho Roano was a revolution in the archaeology of the Iberian Peninsula,\" said Sebastián Celestino Pérez (Image credit: Getty\u002FCavan Images)","synopsisShort":"View of temple ruins of Cancho Roano in Zalamea de la Serena, Extremadura, Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0vlz.jpg","title":"Archaeologists found the ruins at Cancho Roano in GettyImages-1281113345.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp0vlz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0vlz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cp0xg0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp0xg0","_id":"62e0377943d9f46d8f20723d","copyright":"Andrew Lofthouse","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F0x\u002Fp0cp0xg0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisMedium":"Cancho Roano's walls, altar (pictured), moat and artefacts were well-preserved despite the fire (Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisShort":"Tartessos altar at Cancho Roano excavation site in Extremadura Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0xg0.jpg","title":"Cancho Roano's walls, altar (pictured), moat .JPG","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp0xg0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0xg0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cp0x84":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp0x84","_id":"62e0377943d9f46d8f20723f","copyright":"Alamy\u002F WHPics","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F0x\u002Fp0cp0x84.jpg","sourceWidth":1024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alamy\u002F WHPics)","synopsisMedium":"Casas de Turuñuelo is the site of the largest animal sacrifice in the area – more than 50 animals (Credit: Alamy\u002F WHPics)","synopsisShort":"animal bones at Turuñuelo archeological site, Guareña, Badajoz Province Extremadura Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0x84.jpg","title":"Casas de Turuñuelo is the site of the largest animal - Alamy.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp0x84","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0x84.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cp0wvf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp0wvf","_id":"62e0377943d9f46d8f20723e","copyright":"Andrew Lofthouse","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F0w\u002Fp0cp0wvf.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisMedium":"A model of Cancho Roano shows the remains of the site's most recent temple, constructed around the end of the 6th Century BCE Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisShort":"model of excavated temple at Cancho Roano in Extremadura Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0wvf.jpg","title":"A model of Cancho Roano shows the remains of the most recent temple.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp0wvf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0wvf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cp0xgg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp0xgg","_id":"62e0377943d9f46d8f207240","copyright":"Andrew Lofthouse","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F0x\u002Fp0cp0xgg.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisMedium":"Tartessian inscriptions, like on this stele, are believed to be the first example of writing in the Iberian peninsula (Credit: Andrew Lofthouse)","synopsisShort":"Tartessian language on stele at Archaeological Museum of Badajoz in Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0xgg.jpg","title":"Tartessian inscriptions, like on this stele, .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp0xgg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp0xgg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cp6jk7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cp6jk7","_id":"62e0546e43d9f46da0097aaa","copyright":"Alamy\u002F WHPics","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcp\u002F6j\u002Fp0cp6jk7.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alamy\u002F WHPics)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Alamy\u002F WHPics)","synopsisShort":"animal skeletons at Casas de Turuñuelo excavation site of Tartessos in Extremadura Spain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp6jk7.jpg","title":"Alamy Turunuelo landscape crop for promo.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cp6jk7","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cp6jk7.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"p0cnztnv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnztnv","_id":"62df804b43d9f45852409671","copyright":"Meenakshi Vashistha\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzt\u002Fp0cnztnv.jpg","sourceWidth":1371,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Meenakshi Vashistha\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Gir cows are an Indian-born breed native to the Gir hills and forests of the Kathiawar Peninsula (Credit: Meenakshi Vashistha\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Gir cows are an Indian-born breed native to the Gir hills","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztnv.jpg","title":"Gir cows are an Indian-born breed native to the Gir hills and forests of the Kathiawar Peninsula","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnztnv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztnv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0cnzv34":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnzv34","_id":"62df803d43d9f4586e7776ff","copyright":"rvimages\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzv\u002Fp0cnzv34.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: rvimages\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Traditionally, Hindus pour ghee into fire at marriages, funerals and other ceremonies (Credit: rvimages\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Traditionally, Hindus pour ghee into fire at marriages, funerals and other ceremonies","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv34.jpg","title":"Traditionally, Hindus pour ghee into fire at marriages, funerals and other ceremonies","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnzv34","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv34.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0cnztc1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnztc1","_id":"62df7f7243d9f45723732589","copyright":"Najeeb Aziz","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzt\u002Fp0cnztc1.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Najeeb Aziz)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Ranveer Brar always has ghee within arm's distance of his stovetop (Credit: Najeeb Aziz)","synopsisShort":"Chef Ranveer Brar always has ghee within arm's distance of his stovetop","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztc1.jpg","title":"Chef Ranveer Brar always has ghee within arm's distance of his stovetop","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnztc1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztc1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0cnztkt":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnztkt","_id":"62df7fd543d9f402f7576d93","copyright":"StockSolutions\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzt\u002Fp0cnztkt.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: StockSolutions\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"According to chef Ranveer Brar, ghee pairs well with dishes that have pronounced lactic notes like korma (Credit: StockSolutions\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Ghee pairs well with dishes that have pronounced lactic notes like korma","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztkt.jpg","title":"According to chef Ranveer Brar, ghee pairs well with dishes that have pronounced lactic notes like korma","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnztkt","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnztkt.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0cnzv4w":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnzv4w","_id":"62df7fac43d9f46d3709760c","copyright":"Rajdeep Ghosh\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3049,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzv\u002Fp0cnzv4w.jpg","sourceWidth":2178,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Rajdeep Ghosh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Ghee is an ingredient that's integral to Indian cuisine (Credit: Rajdeep Ghosh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Ghee is an ingredient that's integral to Indian cuisine","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv4w.jpg","title":"Ghee is an ingredient that's integral to Indian cuisine","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnzv4w","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv4w.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0cnzv0t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cnzv0t","_id":"62df814043d9f457050cbb91","copyright":"subodhsathe\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcn\u002Fzv\u002Fp0cnzv0t.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: subodhsathe\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"In India, ghee was considered the purest offering to the gods (Credit: subodhsathe\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"In India, ghee was considered the purest offering to the gods","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv0t.jpg","title":"In India, ghee was considered the purest offering to the gods","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cnzv0t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cnzv0t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p09xq72k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xq72k","_id":"62df7f7943d9f4584149e7ac","copyright":"thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fq7\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","title":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xq72k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"p0ckc8g5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckc8g5","_id":"62df823843d9f46da14121e8","copyright":"Stephanie Mendez","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fc8\u002Fp0ckc8g5.jpg","sourceWidth":1024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Stephanie Mendez)","synopsisMedium":"Standing tall and strong at 4ft 10in, my P'urhépecha great-grandmother is an elder of the community who can speak the endangered language (Credit: Stephanie Mendez)","synopsisShort":"author and her great-grandmother in Mexico","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc8g5.jpg","title":"Standing tall and strong at 4ft 10in, my P'urhépecha great-grandmother 1024x1024.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckc8g5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc8g5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0ckc663":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckc663","_id":"62df806243d9f46d3b258102","copyright":"Arturo Peña Romano Medina\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fc6\u002Fp0ckc663.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Arturo Peña Romano Medina\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The P'urhépecha were one of the only indigenous groups in Mexico that the Aztecs failed to conquer (Credit: Arturo Peña Romano Medina\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Ihuatzio town and archaeological ruins were once the capital of the Purépecha kingdom","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc663.jpg","title":"The P'urhépecha were one of the only indigenous groups in Mexico that the Aztecs failed to conquer","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckc663","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc663.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0ckc8qf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckc8qf","_id":"62df7f6b43d9f46d1c4ba202","copyright":"Stephanie Mendez","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1203,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fc8\u002Fp0ckc8qf.jpg","sourceWidth":1024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Stephanie Mendez)","synopsisMedium":"The P'urhépecha community agreed to collaborate with the Spanish to construct the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud in Pátzcuaro (Credit: Stephanie Mendez)","synopsisShort":"Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud in Pátzcuaro","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc8qf.jpg","title":"The P'urhépecha community agreed to collaborate with the Spanish 1024x1200.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckc8qf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc8qf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0ckc955":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckc955","_id":"62df823f43d9f4393f67e6a8","copyright":"Brian Overcast \u002F Alamy Stock Photo","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fc9\u002Fp0ckc955.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit:Brian Overcast \u002F Alamy Stock Photo)","synopsisMedium":"The yácatas of Tzintzuntzan are uniquely round and made of volcanic stone – perhaps the most intact relics of the P'urhépechas (Credit:Brian Overcast \u002F Alamy Stock Photo)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of the Tarascan ruins called Las Yacatas near Tzintzuntzan, Michoacan, Mexico.","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc955.jpg","title":"Alamy The yácatas of Tzintzuntzan are uniquely round and made of volcanic stone.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckc955","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckc955.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0cgb5bz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5bz","_id":"62df810a43d9f46d8f206f55","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","sourceWidth":1024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Instead of cars, chain stores or light pollution, Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The UK seaside village of Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","title":"Instead of cars, chain stores or light pollution, Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5bz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0cgb5r3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5r3","_id":"62df802543d9f4585a6fd43b","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","title":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5r3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0cgb5yw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5yw","_id":"62df808f43d9f4584465b599","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","title":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021 .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5yw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"p0cgb62y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb62y","_id":"62df825843d9f46d1443b26a","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly may seem sleepy to outsiders, but residents say that's far from the case (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"View of Clovelly from the quay below","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","title":"Clovelly may seem sleepy to outsiders, but residents say that's far from the case.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb62y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cgb64k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb64k","_id":"62df7fdf43d9f444fa6751ff","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"The Hon. John Rous, shown here in Clovelly Court Gardens, has owned Clovelly since 1983 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"John Rous in Clovelly Court Gardens","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","title":"The Hon. John Rous, shown here in Clovelly Court Gardens, has owned Clovelly since 1983.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb64k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cgb658":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb658","_id":"62df80f143d9f46d947e0320","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Some of Clovelly's cottages are more than 600 years old (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The whitewashed cottages of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","title":"Some of Clovelly's cottages are more than 600 years old .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb658","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cgb669":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb669","_id":"62df7ff943d9f46da9568c6a","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Almost anything cumbersome gets sledged into Clovelly – even pets (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"A sledge in action in seaside village of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","title":"Almost anything cumbersome gets sledged into Clovelly – even pets.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb669","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cgb66r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb66r","_id":"62df802443d9f46d9a16f64d","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","sourceWidth":1080,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly's maritime past remains important, and fishing takes place here still today (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"fishing nets on beach with view up to seaside village of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","title":"Clovelly's maritime past remains important, and fishing takes place here still today 1020x1280.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb66r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cg9tnk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cg9tnk","_id":"62df81e243d9f456fa56e21a","copyright":"","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002F9t\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The steep cobbled walk through Clovelly village UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","title":"The-steep-cobbled-walk-through-Clovelly.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cg9tnk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr0z0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0z0","_id":"62df80d343d9f46da0097432","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1079,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","sourceWidth":1939,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","title":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0z0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr6xb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr6xb","_id":"62df7fbc43d9f4573c15b24a","copyright":"De Luan\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr6\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: De Luan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin – 1811-1877 (Credit: De Luan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","title":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin – 1811-1877","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr6xb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr19b":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr19b","_id":"62df822043d9f46d1443b244","copyright":"Anne Claire Heraud","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anne Claire Heraud)","synopsisMedium":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius (Credit: Anne Claire Heraud)","synopsisShort":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","title":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr19b","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr0cm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0cm","_id":"62df808d43d9f4585240969b","copyright":"Christian Braut","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":740,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","sourceWidth":1316,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Christian Braut)","synopsisMedium":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche (Credit: Christian Braut)","synopsisShort":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","title":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0cm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr0fc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0fc","_id":"62df807243d9f46d84529e0f","copyright":"Alexandre Guirkinger","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1627,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","sourceWidth":1627,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisMedium":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisShort":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","title":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0fc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr0ql":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0ql","_id":"62df7f5543d9f46d3d1a23e3","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","title":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0ql","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr1lf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1lf","_id":"62df81d943d9f46d167d97f1","copyright":"Loïc Martin","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","sourceWidth":914,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Loïc Martin)","synopsisMedium":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River (Credit: Loïc Martin)","synopsisShort":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","title":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1lf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr1r0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1r0","_id":"62df816543d9f46d933fca37","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","synopsisMedium":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","title":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1r0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr1wd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1wd","_id":"62df824043d9f46d911c7eb4","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","title":"Chef Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1wd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cdr07y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr07y","_id":"62df7f6843d9f46da30db243","copyright":"Alexandre Guirkinger","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisMedium":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisShort":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","title":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr07y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"p0cbr8dq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8dq","_id":"62df804743d9f4573f554b12","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The imposing statues outside the Makah Museum wear distinctive cedar-bark rain hats (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Large tribal statues outside the Makah Museum","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","title":"The imposing statues outside the Makah Museum wear distinctive cedar-bark rain hats","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8dq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"p0cbr8dn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8dn","_id":"62df802943d9f4585a6fd445","copyright":"Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1187,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","sourceWidth":2111,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Makan petroglyphs can still be seen at Wedding Rocks, just south of the Ozette archaeological site (Credit: Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Detail of Makah Petroglyphs at Wedding Rock, Washington State","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","title":"Makan petroglyphs can still be seen at Wedding Rocks, just south of the Ozette archaeological site","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8dn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"p0cbr8d2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8d2","_id":"62df7fb543d9f457553813e1","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The museum includes a reconstruction of a wooden Makah house among hundreds of other artefacts (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Wooden Makah house at Makah Museum","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","title":"The museum includes a reconstruction of a wooden Makah house among hundreds of other artefacts","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8d2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"p0cbr8ct":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8ct","_id":"62df801943d9f46d2c2cc827","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Painting of Makah thunderbird and whale at Neah Bay","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","title":"The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8ct","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"p0cbr8ds":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8ds","_id":"62df824b43d9f46d954520a4","copyright":"Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sea stacks off Cape Flattery, Makah Reservation, Olympic National Park","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","title":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8ds","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"p0cj0j76":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj0j76","_id":"62df80aa43d9f4574a33a926","copyright":"Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3840,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F0j\u002Fp0cj0j76.jpg","sourceWidth":3840,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"In Basque cider houses, the cider is poured directly into the glass from the barrel (Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Man pouring cider from wooden barrel at Sidreria Barkaiztegi, San Sebastian","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j76.jpg","title":"In Basque cider houses, the cider is poured directly into the glass from the barrel (Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj0j76","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j76.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cj0j72":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj0j72","_id":"62df7fbc43d9f4572408aa45","copyright":"Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3812,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F0j\u002Fp0cj0j72.jpg","sourceWidth":6777,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"This apple-growing region has been the in cider-making business since the 11th Century (Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Row of apples in baskets at a Basque market","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j72.jpg","title":"This apple-growing region has been the in cider-making business since the 11th Century (Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj0j72","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j72.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cj0j4f":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj0j4f","_id":"62df80d243d9f46d9a16f6e2","copyright":"Juanma Aparicio\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2481,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F0j\u002Fp0cj0j4f.jpg","sourceWidth":4411,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Juanma Aparicio\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Igartubeiti is a traditional Basque cider house that has been converted into a museum (Credit: Juanma Aparicio\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Exterior of Caserío Museo Igartubeiti and garden infront","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j4f.jpg","title":"Igartubeiti is a traditional Basque cider house that has been converted into a museum (Credit: Juanma Aparicio\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj0j4f","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j4f.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cj0j2c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj0j2c","_id":"62df810b43d9f45710790ff2","copyright":"Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F0j\u002Fp0cj0j2c.jpg","sourceWidth":6720,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The small town of Astigarraga is home to an impressive 19 cider houses, including Petretegi (pictured) (Credit: Javier Larrea\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Cider barrels in Sidreria Petritegi, Astigarraga, Basque Country","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j2c.jpg","title":"The small town of Astigarraga is home to an impressive 19 cider houses, including Petretegi","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj0j2c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j2c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cj0j8y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj0j8y","_id":"62df7f8343d9f4584149e7b8","copyright":"Louis Dafos\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1638,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F0j\u002Fp0cj0j8y.jpg","sourceWidth":2912,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Louis Dafos\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Louis Dafos\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"View over San Sebastian and La Concha bay","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j8y.jpg","title":"(Credit: Louis Dafos\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj0j8y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj0j8y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb728":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb728","_id":"62df804343d9f46daa5b78f0","copyright":"Kirsten Henton","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2052,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb7\u002Fp0cjb728.jpg","sourceWidth":3648,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kirsten Henton)","synopsisMedium":"There are two ways to get to North Ronaldsay: by ferry or eight-seater plane (Credit: Kirsten Henton)","synopsisShort":"Ferry at North Ronaldsay pier","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb728.jpg","title":"There are two ways to get to North Ronaldsay: by ferry or eight-seater plane (Credit: Kirsten Henton)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb728","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb728.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb6x5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb6x5","_id":"62df820443d9f46da30db4a6","copyright":"Kirsten Henton","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3375,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cjb6x5.jpg","sourceWidth":6000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kirsten Henton)","synopsisMedium":"Due to their extreme isolation, North Ronaldsay sheep are genetically identical to their ancestors (Credit: Kirsten Henton)","synopsisShort":"North Ronaldsay sheep in front of dry stone wall","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6x5.jpg","title":"Due to their extreme isolation, North Ronaldsay sheep are genetically identical to their ancestors (Credit: Kirsten Henton)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb6x5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6x5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb6rb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb6rb","_id":"62df81cc43d9f45843528ae9","copyright":"John Bracegirdle\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2063,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cjb6rb.jpg","sourceWidth":3668,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: John Bracegirdle\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The sheep are mostly confined to the shore by a 13-mile-long drystone wall that encircles the island (Credit: John Bracegirdle\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"sheep on North Ronaldsay shingle beach looking for seaweed","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6rb.jpg","title":"The sheep are mostly confined to the shore by a 13-mile-long drystone wall that encircles the island","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb6rb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6rb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb6pq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb6pq","_id":"62df810c43d9f46d37097751","copyright":"Iain Sarjeant\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2411,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cjb6pq.jpg","sourceWidth":4287,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Iain Sarjeant\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"North Ronaldsay's mill spins premium sheep wool in a range of natural hues (Credit: Iain Sarjeant\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Auskerry wool for sale in a gift shop in Kirkwall, Orkney Islands","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6pq.jpg","title":"North Ronaldsay's mill spins premium sheep wool in a range of natural hues (Credit: Iain Sarjeant\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb6pq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6pq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb6hv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb6hv","_id":"62df809f43d9f46da00973fb","copyright":"Clare Hargreaves\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3375,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cjb6hv.jpg","sourceWidth":5999,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Clare Hargreaves\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Just nine farmers are currently responsible for maintaining the sheep dyke, so extra hands are often required (Credit: Clare Hargreaves\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Repairing the stone sheep dyke on the island of North Ronaldsay, Orkney, Scotland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6hv.jpg","title":"Just nine farmers are currently responsible for maintaining the sheep dyke, so extra hands are often required","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb6hv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb6hv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb63q":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb63q","_id":"62df819043d9f45843528ab1","copyright":"Les Gibbon\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2808,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cjb63q.jpg","sourceWidth":4992,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Les Gibbon\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Depopulation is a major challenge for the island, with younger generations leaving to find education and work elsewhere (Credit: Les Gibbon\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Abandoned and ruined farmhouse cottage North Ronaldsay Orkney Islands","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb63q.jpg","title":"Depopulation is a major challenge for the island, with younger generations leaving to find education and work elsewhere","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb63q","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb63q.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjb759":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjb759","_id":"62df7fbb43d9f46d1b463ae7","copyright":"Rachel Husband\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2885,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fb7\u002Fp0cjb759.jpg","sourceWidth":5128,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Rachel Husband\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Rachel Husband\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"North Ronaldsay ram with large curly horns","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb759.jpg","title":"(Credit: Rachel Husband\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjb759","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjb759.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"p0cjcqqb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcqqb","_id":"62df816443d9f4393f67e61b","copyright":"Grahamphoto23\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcq\u002Fp0cjcqqb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Grahamphoto23\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Yeast consumes carbohydrates in flour and converts them into carbon dioxide, giving sourdough its bubbles (Credit: Grahamphoto23\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Yeast consumes carbohydrates in flour and converts them into carbon dioxide","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcqqb.jpg","title":"Yeast consumes carbohydrates in flour and converts them into carbon dioxide, giving sourdough its bubbles","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcqqb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcqqb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcqz2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcqz2","_id":"62df80e043d9f4572408ab4b","copyright":"Album\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcq\u002Fp0cjcqz2.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Album\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Hieroglyphics of farmers collecting wheat and baking loaves can be found on tombs and temples in Egypt (Credit: Album\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Hieroglyphics of farmers collecting wheat and baking loaves can be found in Egypt","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcqz2.jpg","title":"Hieroglyphics of farmers collecting wheat and baking loaves can be found on tombs and temples in Egypt","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcqz2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcqz2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcsd0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcsd0","_id":"62df80e343d9f457560e5640","copyright":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcs\u002Fp0cjcsd0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisMedium":"De Smedt is working with Gobbetti to isolate yeast and bacteria strains and freeze them (Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisShort":"De Smedt is working with Gobbetti to isolate yeast and bacteria strains and freeze them","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsd0.jpg","title":"De Smedt is working with Gobbetti to isolate yeast and bacteria strains and freeze them","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcsd0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsd0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcsc3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcsc3","_id":"62df815543d9f46d2c2cc929","copyright":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcs\u002Fp0cjcsc3.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisMedium":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour in Belgium is the world's only sourdough library (Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisShort":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour in Belgium is the world's only sourdough library","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsc3.jpg","title":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour in Belgium is the world's only sourdough library","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcsc3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsc3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcs95":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcs95","_id":"62df823443d9f46d933fcad9","copyright":"Puratos Center for Bread Flavour","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcs\u002Fp0cjcs95.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisMedium":"Karl De Smedt preserves the world's rarest sourdough starters at the Puratos Sourdough Library (Credit: Puratos Center for Bread Flavour)","synopsisShort":"Karl De Smedt preserves rare sourdough starters at the Puratos Sourdough Library","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcs95.jpg","title":"Karl De Smedt preserves the world's rarest sourdough starters at the Puratos Sourdough Library","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcs95","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcs95.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcsp1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcsp1","_id":"62df7fbb43d9f457224cbc20","copyright":"Arianna Sikorski","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcs\u002Fp0cjcsp1.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Arianna Sikorski)","synopsisMedium":"Arianna Sikorski inherited a Klondike Gold Rush starter that's thought to date to the 1890s (Credit: Arianna Sikorski)","synopsisShort":"Arianna Sikorski inherited a Klondike Gold Rush starter that dates to the 1890s","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsp1.jpg","title":"Arianna Sikorski inherited a Klondike Gold Rush starter that's thought to date to the 1890s","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcsp1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsp1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcsm7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcsm7","_id":"62df821543d9f46f44746cda","copyright":"Boudin Bakery","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1919,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcs\u002Fp0cjcsm7.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Boudin Bakery)","synopsisMedium":"Boudin Bakery in San Francisco claims to have maintained its sourdough starter since 1849 (Credit: Boudin Bakery)","synopsisShort":"Boudin Bakery in San Francisco claims to have maintained its sourdough starter since 1849","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsm7.jpg","title":"Boudin Bakery in San Francisco claims to have maintained its sourdough starter since 1849","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcsm7","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcsm7.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcq91":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcq91","_id":"62df817943d9f46da141214a","copyright":"San Francisco Chronicle\u002FHearst Newspapers\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcq\u002Fp0cjcq91.jpg","sourceWidth":1921,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: San Francisco Chronicle\u002FHearst Newspapers\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Sourdough loaves are being prepped for the oven at Boudin Bakery in San Francisco (Credit: San Francisco Chronicle\u002FHearst Newspapers\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sourdough loaves are being prepped for the oven at Boudin Bakery in San Francisco","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcq91.jpg","title":"Sourdough loaves are being prepped for the oven at Boudin Bakery in San Francisco","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcq91","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcq91.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0cjcql4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cjcql4","_id":"62df80fb43d9f46d96385c63","copyright":"alvarez\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002Fcq\u002Fp0cjcql4.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: alvarez\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Sourdough has a nearly 6,000-year history that spans the globe (Credit: alvarez\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sourdough has a nearly 6,000-year history that spans the globe","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcql4.jpg","title":"Sourdough has a nearly 6,000-year history that spans the globe","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cjcql4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cjcql4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"p0ckgmn3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgmn3","_id":"62df802543d9f44500213a3d","copyright":"John Michaels\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3840,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","sourceWidth":3840,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Tacacá, a spicy, sour soup from the Brazilian Amazon, is made from cassava, prawns and jambu leaf (Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Bowl of tacaca spicy soup with prawns floating on top","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","title":"Tacacá, a spicy, sour soup from the Brazilian Amazon, is made from cassava, prawns and jambu leaf (Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgmn3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"p0ckgm8m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgm8m","_id":"62df81f543d9f46da14121ad","copyright":"Jacob Mardell","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisMedium":"In recent years, jambu-infused cachaça has introduced the herb to a national audience (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisShort":"Bottle of JOS brand jambu cachaça and two other cachacas","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","title":"In recent years, jambu-infused cachaça has introduced the herb to a national audience (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgm8m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"p0ckglw5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckglw5","_id":"62df7fba43d9f46d3844a6e1","copyright":"Mapa da Cachaça","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3159,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgl\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","sourceWidth":5616,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","synopsisMedium":"Jambu's mouth-numbing effects has made it a popular cocktail ingredient in Sao Paulo and beyond (Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","synopsisShort":"Orange cocktail in a glass on wooden table","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","title":"Jambu's mouth-numbing effects has made it a popular cocktail ingredient in Sao Paulo and beyond (Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckglw5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"p0ckglnl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckglnl","_id":"62df7fa943d9f45872035670","copyright":"Jacob Mardell","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1536,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgl\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisMedium":"Sabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in São Paulo, is a good place to source PANCs (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisShort":"PANC section at Sabor De Fazenda","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","title":"Sabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in São Paulo, is a good place to source PANCs (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckglnl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"p0ckgmsh":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgmsh","_id":"62df80d943d9f46d9838b78f","copyright":"rbiedermann\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2270,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","sourceWidth":4035,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Yellow jambu flowers and green leaves","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","title":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgmsh","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"p0cj91kl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91kl","_id":"62df811543d9f4583242e8a3","copyright":"Agefotostock\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2859,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","sourceWidth":5083,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain (Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Irun, Hendaye, Hendaye, France , and Pheasant Island in between","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","title":"Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91kl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"p0cj91j9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91j9","_id":"62df803a43d9f4586f6852c1","copyright":"Mike MacEacheran","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3648,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","sourceWidth":3648,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisMedium":"At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated in 1659 (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisShort":"Monolith on Pheasant Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","title":"At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91j9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"p0cj91hz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91hz","_id":"62df7fd143d9f46d9838b697","copyright":"Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2857,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","sourceWidth":5079,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries (Credit: Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Archive picture of signing of The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","title":"The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91hz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"p0cj91hg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91hg","_id":"62df83a543d9f46d911c7fb7","copyright":"EQRoy\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4473,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","sourceWidth":7952,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour (Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Pheasant Island on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye and Irun","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","title":"The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91hg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"p0cj91l5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91l5","_id":"62df7fa343d9f46d39486ba4","copyright":"EQRoy\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4473,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","sourceWidth":7952,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Pheasant Island on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye and Irun","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","title":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91l5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"p0cglg16":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg16","_id":"62df811343d9f46d9958eb14","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"Bryn Thomas from Brighton Permaculture Trust has documented how new orchards provide pleasure and learning for local people (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Bryn Thomas (Brighton Permaculture Trust) on how orchards provide pleasure and learning","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","title":"Bryn Thomas from Brighton Permaculture Trust has documented how new orchards provide pleasure and learning for local people","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg16","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cglg4p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg4p","_id":"62df7fb843d9f4586e777666","copyright":"Artistraw Cidery and Orchard","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Artistraw Cidery and Orchard)","synopsisMedium":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots (Credit: Artistraw Cidery and Orchard)","synopsisShort":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","title":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg4p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cglg0f":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg0f","_id":"62df7fea43d9f46d9717b0fd","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","title":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg0f","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cglgfl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglgfl","_id":"62df837143d9f458312798fd","copyright":"Tim Walton\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tim Walton\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name (Credit: Tim Walton\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"There is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","title":"The diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglgfl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cglgs9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglgs9","_id":"62df7f8343d9f458706f1b39","copyright":"Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"There are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection at Brogdale Farm in Kent (Credit: Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"There are around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","title":"There are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection at Brogdale Farm in Kent","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglgs9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cglg85":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg85","_id":"62df82e743d9f4573d6a6b5f","copyright":"JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples (Credit: JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","title":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg85","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"p0cj8sxr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sxr","_id":"62df816143d9f45749671e7e","copyright":"Renee Robley","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4320,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","sourceWidth":3456,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Renee Robley)","synopsisMedium":"Crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish, is sweet, salty, spicy – and messy to eat (Credit: Renee Robley)","synopsisShort":"Crab and dumpling on a silver plate on blue table","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","title":"Crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish, is sweet, salty, spicy – and messy to eat","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sxr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0cj8t9p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8t9p","_id":"62df7f8343d9f46da86e4b27","copyright":"DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1196,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8t\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","sourceWidth":2126,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The manicou crabs used in the dish are caught in Tobago's forest, which is the world's oldest protected rainforest (Credit: DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Waterfalls and mountain stream in Tobago rainforest","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","title":"The manicou crabs used in the dish are caught in Tobago's forest, which is the world's oldest protected rainforest","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8t9p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0cj8sqk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sqk","_id":"62df825343d9f46d947e0435","copyright":"Westend61\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2897,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","sourceWidth":5150,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Castara bay against blue sky and blue sea, Tobago","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","title":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sqk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0cj8sf2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sf2","_id":"62df7f8243d9f4573d6a66bc","copyright":"dbtravel\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2869,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","sourceWidth":5100,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: dbtravel\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Miss Trim's has been serving up homemade local dishes from Store Bay for decades (Credit: dbtravel\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Food menu at Miss Trim's Restaurant Shack in Store Bay on Tobago Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","title":"Miss Trim's has been serving up homemade local dishes from Store Bay for decades","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sf2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0cj8s1n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8s1n","_id":"62df80af43d9f46d911c7d90","copyright":"Abigail Blasi","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Abigail Blasi)","synopsisMedium":"Sherwin Clark's restaurant, Marguerite's, is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago (Credit: Abigail Blasi)","synopsisShort":"Crab and dumpling \u002F Sherwin Clark in his restaurant Marguerite's","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","title":"Sherwin Clark's restaurant, Marguerite's, is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8s1n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0cj8skv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8skv","_id":"62df818443d9f46d2c2cc94f","copyright":"RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2880,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","sourceWidth":5120,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago (Credit: RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Woman ordering food at Marcus Beach Hut, Trinidad","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","title":"Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8skv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"p0chtqhn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chtqhn","_id":"62df812843d9f46d3844a862","copyright":"Mike MacEacheran","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Ftq\u002Fp0chtqhn.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisMedium":"Cruachan Power Station is a model for renewable and low-carbon energy production (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisShort":"Cruachan Power Station is a model for renewable and low-carbon energy production","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqhn.jpg","title":"Cruachan Power Station is a model for renewable and low-carbon energy production","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chtqhn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqhn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chtqnk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chtqnk","_id":"62df7fbe43d9f4584149e7f6","copyright":"Mike MacEacheran","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Ftq\u002Fp0chtqnk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisMedium":"Cruachan Power Station has the capacity to generate power for nearly 100,000 homes (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisShort":"Cruachan Power Station has the capacity to generate power for nearly 100,000 homes","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqnk.jpg","title":"Cruachan Power Station has the capacity to generate power for nearly 100,000 homes","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chtqnk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqnk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chtqlp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chtqlp","_id":"62df7fd543d9f4574b0f33e4","copyright":"Mike MacEacheran","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Ftq\u002Fp0chtqlp.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisMedium":"Cruachan Power Station's machine hall is high enough to house the Tower of London (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisShort":"Cruachan Power Station's machine hall is high enough to house the Tower of London","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqlp.jpg","title":"Cruachan Power Station's machine hall is high enough to house the Tower of London","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chtqlp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtqlp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chtpzb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chtpzb","_id":"62df825643d9f42c861a8b0d","copyright":"Monty Rakusen\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Ftp\u002Fp0chtpzb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Monty Rakusen\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Cruachan Dam is a mighty reservoir in Argyll (Credit: Monty Rakusen\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Cruachan Dam is a mighty reservoir in Argyll","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtpzb.jpg","title":"Cruachan Dam is a mighty reservoir in Argyll","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chtpzb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtpzb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chtptk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chtptk","_id":"62df812a43d9f46d167d9762","copyright":"Chris James\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Ftp\u002Fp0chtptk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Chris James\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Ben Cruachan is Argyll's highest mountain (Credit: Chris James\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Ben Cruachan is Argyll's highest mountain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtptk.jpg","title":"Ben Cruachan is Argyll's highest mountain","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chtptk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chtptk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9q6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9q6","_id":"62df7fce43d9f46da1411ffb","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9q6.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Barnes is the last person in Ireland to exclusively smoke wild fish (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Sally Ferns Barnes is the last person in Ireland to exclusively smoke wild fish","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9q6.jpg","title":"Barnes is the last person in Ireland to exclusively smoke wild fish","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9q6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9q6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9qg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9qg","_id":"62df81f243d9f46d8f207007","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9qg.jpg","sourceWidth":1371,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Barnes's Wild Irish Smoked Salmon on buttered brown soda bread with a cup of tea (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Sally Ferns Barnes's Wild Irish Smoked Salmon on buttered brown soda bread with tea","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qg.jpg","title":"Barnes's Wild Irish Smoked Salmon on buttered brown soda bread with a cup of tea","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9qg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9q8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9q8","_id":"62df803743d9f46d3b2580d4","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9q8.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Barnes gets just 225 wild salmon this year for her smokery in West Cork, Ireland (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Sally Ferns Barnes gets just 225 wild salmon for her smokery in West Cork, Ireland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9q8.jpg","title":"Barnes gets just 225 wild salmon this year for her smokery in West Cork, Ireland","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9q8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9q8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9qb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9qb","_id":"62df802343d9f4574b0f343f","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9qb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"The Keep is Barnes's learning centre for wild fish (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"The Keep is Sally Ferns Barnes's learning centre for wild fish","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qb.jpg","title":"The Keep is Barnes's learning centre for wild fish","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9qb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9s8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9s8","_id":"62df80be43d9f46d1c4ba351","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9s8.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Cold-smoking fish is a labour-intensive process, from the preparation of the fillets to salt curing and smoking (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Cold-smoking fish is a labour-intensive process","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9s8.jpg","title":"Cold-smoking fish is a labour-intensive process, from the preparation of the fillets to salt curing and smoking","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9s8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9s8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9qd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9qd","_id":"62df81ef43d9f4586c2330cc","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9qd.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Wild Irish Smoked Salmon and Chicory Salad by Caitlin Ruth (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Wild Irish Smoked Salmon and Chicory Salad by Caitlin Ruth","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qd.jpg","title":"Wild Irish Smoked Salmon and Chicory Salad by Caitlin Ruth","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9qd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0chp9qn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chp9qn","_id":"62df80ae43d9f46d8b28b150","copyright":"Kate Ryan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fp9\u002Fp0chp9qn.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisMedium":"Dwindling numbers of wild Irish salmon mean it becomes rarer with every passing year (Credit: Kate Ryan)","synopsisShort":"Dwindling numbers of wild Irish salmon mean it becomes rarer with every passing year","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qn.jpg","title":"Dwindling numbers of wild Irish salmon mean it becomes rarer with every passing year","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chp9qn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chp9qn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"p0by5vj0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by5vj0","_id":"62df7f8343d9f46da86e4b25","copyright":"Onfokus\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F5v\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","title":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by5vj0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"p0bpz96n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bpz96n","_id":"62df814d43d9f4573d6a6881","copyright":"R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbp\u002Fz9\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening (Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","title":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bpz96n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"62df7f9f43d9f4393f67e4c6","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3078,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9p\u002Fld\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","sourceWidth":5472,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop","_id":"62df7ec143d9f46d1b4639da","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When Inez Cook opened a restaurant for Indigenous Canadian cuisine, she embarked on an unexpected journey towards rediscovering her identity and finding her long-lost family.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was all about erasing our identities, our origins","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I was born Nuxalk, but I was brought up white,\" Inez Cook told me when we sat down to talk at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.salmonandbannock.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESalmon n' Bannock\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the restaurant she founded in Vancouver, British Columbia. \"I'm one of thousands of First Nations who were forcibly removed from their homes as children and placed into non-Indigenous families across Canada.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECook was just a year old when she was taken from her mother and Nuxalk Nation community during the so-called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-55269251\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESixties Scoop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the government policy of cultural assimilation that began in the 1950s and lasted until the '80s. \"It was all about erasing our identities, our origins,\" she said. \"The belief was that we'd be better off living European lives, but it ended up creating trauma for generations to come. I was one of the lucky ones. I grew up in a home filled with love.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECook credited her adopted family for instilling in her a deep and long-lasting appreciation of good food. \"My mother's side were Dutch-Russian Mennonites,\" she said. \"Their cooking was wonderful. I loved eating pierogis and learning how to make borscht.\" Despite growing up in a happy home, Cook still felt out of place. \"It wasn't just being the only dark one in the family photos when everyone else was fair. I had this deep yearning for my culture that never went away.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen, one day, she drove past a sign on the highway that read \"Don't panic, we have bannock\" (the bread traditionally associated with the Indigenous people of Canada). She made the decision then and there to open a restaurant that would celebrate her roots. \"I had worked in the food industry since I was a teenager in some shape or form – washing dishes or waiting tables – and it had always been my dream to open my own place. Seeing that sign was the moment when the penny finally dropped, and I knew what I wanted to do next.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn enthusiastic home chef, Cook set to work researching native ingredients and First Nations cooking techniques. \"I wanted the restaurant to showcase food from the land and sea that the Indigenous people had traditionally hunted, harvested and eaten – everything from fiddlehead ferns to bison and sock-eye salmon,\" she explained. \"I wanted to incorporate their traditional methods too: how they smoked food or preserved it over the long winters. I did a lot of asking and learning, then began to improvise.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Cook opened the doors of Salmon n' Bannock, with its menu of native cuisine with a modern twist. \"Back then I did everything. I was either in the kitchen or front of house, or dealing with suppliers, like the First Nations elder who collected wild huckleberries for me; he always carried a gun in case he needed to frighten off the bears.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the restaurant became successful, Cook stepped away from the kitchen to run the business but has remained hands-on with the menu ever since. \"I chat with the cooks and we discuss the food and flavours we like. Mostly we take a native ingredient, like soapberries or kelp, and dream up something new: the soapberries we whipped with water and sugar to make a fluffy, pink dessert; with the kelp we did our own take on cabbage rolls and stuffed the seaweed parcels with wild rice. Occasionally, we'll take a classic First Nations recipe and reinvent it altogether.\" At this point, she asked a waiter to bring me a dish to sample; he returned moments later bearing a plate topped with a swirl of savoury mousse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a spin on pemmican, one of our ancestors' most important foodstuffs. Traditionally it was a mixture of dried meat and berries. They'd bury pouches of it so they'd always be able to find food on their journeys. We've revived it and updated it. We smoke, dry and hand-grind the bison meat before blending it with cream cheese and sage-infused berries.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe pemmican was delicious; light with rich and smoky undertones, and perfectly complimented by the crunch of the accompanying toasted bannock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Food can help build bridges","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I want to offer more than just good food though,\" Cook said. \"I want it to be a path for people to learn about Canada's Indigenous peoples. The First Nations face a lot of prejudice and ignorance. But if we tell our stories and share our traditions through food, we can go some way to overcoming it. Food can help build bridges.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Canada's Indigenous identity\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200525-why-first-nations-communities-are-uninviting-visitors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy First Nations communities are uninviting visitors\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201123-canadas-forgotten-hawaiian-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's forgotten Hawaiian islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFinding family – and herself – through food\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outset, Cook wanted Salmon n' Bannock to feature an all-Indigenous team representing as many different Nations as possible. \"We are often thought of as just artefacts in the museums, or stereotypes in old movies,\" she said. \"Food gives me a chance to show diners that, we – whether Nuxalk, Cree, Ojibwe or Ts'msyan – are here, and our cultures are alive.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon after opening, the restaurant was met not only with accolades for its culinary flair but by a stream of visitors curious about Cook herself. \"When we were reviewed, it said that a Nuxalk person had opened this new restaurant. But the Nuxalk community didn't know me,\" she said. \"They were concerned that there was some kind of cultural appropriation going on; that the First Nations angle was a gimmick.\" One woman in particular bombarded her with questions about her background. \"I answered as best as I could,\" said Cook. \"Thankfully, I knew my biological mother's name was Miriam. I went away to fetch the lady her cup of tea, and when I returned, she finished up her phone call to the community, stood up with her arms extended and said, 'Let me be the first to welcome you home. We're family.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShortly afterwards Cook's blood uncle also paid a visit. \"He had promised my birth mother Miriam that he would find me one day. And he did. But that moment was very bittersweet. He told me she already had passed away. I had lost a mother I never knew, but gained a new, extended family.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECook's uncle gave the restaurant a traditional Nuxalk blessing and invited her back to the community for a three-day potlatch (a traditional Indigenous ceremony accompanied by a feast), where she met hundreds of relatives and received her traditional Nuxalk name, Snitsmana, meaning \"protector of the sacred dance, and lively\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In many ways I felt like a complete alien looking into another world,\" she said. \"But receiving my name was an incredibly emotional moment, and a turning point. It gave me a sense of belonging. I began to grow into a new skin of sorts. Over time, I went on to learn some of the cultural protocols of the Nuxalk and grew to understand what it meant to be Native. Whereas before I had felt conflicted about who I was, I slowly began to accept both the Indigenous and white sides of myself, and to embrace them and appreciate them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I'm a proud, born again Native","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"So, you see, food can be so much more than just a meal, or about nutrition. It has helped me reconnect with the family, community and culture that were missing for so much of my life. It has led me through a process of healing. And the menu at Salmon n' Bannock is a declaration and celebration of who I am now. I'm a proud, born again Native.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhat's next?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"For many visitors to Vancouver, the only experience they have of the First Nations is seeing the Stanley Park totem poles,\" said Cook, referring to the popular tourist attraction that receives millions of visitors every year. \"Sadly, the totems are often just treated as a photo opportunity. People arrive, take their selfies and move on. They have no idea – and probably no interest – in what they represent, nor indeed how rich the city's Indigenous heritage is.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith this in mind, Cook has begun talks with the Vancouver International Airport authorities about opening a pop-up eatery in the departures area. \"It would feature Indigenous artworks from British Columbia and a menu of Indigenous cuisine, so that even if visitors have been blind to the First Nations up to that point, they'd have the chance to engage and learn while waiting for their flights. Being at the airport would allow me to spread that message internationally. I'd go global,\" she said with a laugh. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECook also wants to make her mark on airport arrivals. \"I'm continuing to campaign for airlines to change their pre-touchdown announcements and include a proper land acknowledgement,\" she said. Alongside the words \"Welcome to Vancouver\", Cook wants recognition that the city is located on the unceded territory of the Coast Salish Peoples – the area's original inhabitants for 9,000 years before \"first contact\" with Europeans, who never ceded nor legally signed away their lands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Even if just a few passengers on board say to themselves, 'Wait, what did they just say?' it might lead to a conversation, an interest in finding out more. A land acknowledgement is a small but necessary step towards honouring the original occupants of a place,\" she said. \"It shows respect for Indigenous people's relationship with the land. It is a small step towards righting the many wrongs of the past.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFavourite dish\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Cook, her sage-smoked salmon burger incorporates some key elements of First Nations culture all in one dish. \"Salmon has a spiritual significance for many Indigenous people,\" she told me. \"It has an incredible, transformative journey; born in freshwater, it travels to live in saltwater before returning to freshwater to spawn and die. So, it represents to many the Circle of Life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECook dry-marinades and home-smokes the fish using dry white sage, a sacred herb for the First Nations. \"It's used in smudging,\" she explained. \"That's the practice of burning herbs during important rituals and ceremonies. We've applied the same process to the kitchen and come up with a simple alternative to a smokehouse. Smoking with sage gives a really beautiful, earthy flavour.\" Finally, the salmon is served in freshly baked bannock bread. \"Each bannock is split in two and the breaking of bread is symbolic. It means that everyone, no matter their race or culture, is welcome at the table.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESage-smoked salmon burgers\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Inez Cook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E(Cook shows how the burger is made in this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyoutu.be\u002FDnVQ5vqkGL0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOven-baked bannock:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1½ cups (350ml) unbleached, all-purpose flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1¼ tbsp (19ml) baking powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¾ tsp (4ml) salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2\u002F3 cup (160ml) cold water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECanola or sunflower oil for brushing\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESage rub:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp (15ml) ground dry white buffalo sage (leaves can be purchased from online retailers)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp (15ml) ground juniper berries\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp (15ml) ground bay leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1½ tbsp (22ml) ground dry dill\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1¼ cups (310ml) brown sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup (250ml) sea salt or kosher salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHandful dry white buffalo sage\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 salmon fillets (5 oz each or 142g)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EPickles, arugula and mayo to serve\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMethod:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFor the bannock, preheat the oven to 400F (200C). Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Make a well in the middle and add about half the water. With a sturdy spoon, start incorporating the flour mixture, beginning with the walls of the well. Once the water is incorporated, add more water as needed and continue to mix until the dough is sticky. Do not over mix.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESprinkle a generous amount of flour onto your work surface and form the dough into six puck-sized portions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOil a baking sheet and place the bannock directly on the sheet. Brush the entire surface of the dough with oil. Place on the middle rack of the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Flip and bake for an additional 10 minutes or until lightly golden brown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, assemble your \"smoking station\" by placing a small fireproof bowl in a large deep-dish container big enough to hold both the salmon fillets and the bowl. (A metal roasting pan works well for this, with the small bowl placed in a corner.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrind the rub ingredients in a pestle and mortar, herb or spice mill, then coat each salmon fillet. Place the fish in the deep-dish container and add a handful of white buffalo sage into the small fireproof bowl. In a well-ventilated space, away from smoke detectors, light the sage and quickly cover the container with a lid or a sheet of aluminium foil. Allow the salmon to smoke for 20 minutes. Relight the sage if you desire a smokier flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERemove the lid or foil along with the fireproof bowl and place the salmon in an oven preheated to 425F (220C) and cook the fish for 8-10 minutes, or until almost baked through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo serve:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESlice the bannock in half, add the salmon fillet, and top with your choice of arugula, pickles, and either garlic, lemon or regular mayonnaise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EServes 6.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-18T20:13:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The restaurateur who overcame Canada's Sixties Scoop","headlineShort":"How Canada is reclaiming its cuisine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When Inez Cook opened a restaurant for Indigenous Canadian cuisine, she embarked on an unexpected journey towards rediscovering her identity and finding her long-lost family.","summaryShort":"\"I had this deep yearning for my culture that never went away\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:03:16.910317Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e50c6a6-76bf-43cc-8dc2-f9d93c6e506d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:24:18.268177Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity","_id":"62df7eaf43d9f456fa56df2d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In recent years, First Nation chefs like Marie-Cecile Nottaway have been reclaiming their families' generations-old recipes to feed new audiences.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0930p9l.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“Because when we had to stay home during Covid-19 and there was neither work nor school, I was finally able to go sugar-bushing [in rural Quebec] with my daughter for the entire season – making \u003Cem\u003Epikoodinigan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for four or five weeks.” \u003Cem\u003E– Marie-Cecile Nottaway, chef\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up alongside moose, bear and the more than 4,000 lakes dotting Canada's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sepaq.com\u002Frf\u002Flvy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParc de la Vérendrye\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wildlife reserve in Quebec, Marie-Cecile Nottaway knew that, like other members of the Algonquin First Nation, she had to catch her food before she could cook it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt eight years old, she was already a proficient hunter who could set rabbit snares by herself. \"I'd put my snowshoes on in the morning and do my 2 or 3km trek to set them up,\" she said. \"Then the next day, I'd go over my tracks again and bring back a couple of rabbits!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe knew how to clean her catch, too. And as she carved into the animal, she chose to whom in her family she would bequeath the rabbit head, which was considered a delicacy. \"I would give it to a relative who was nice to me,\" Nottaway said. After she cut up the meat, she would watch her \u003Cem\u003EKokom\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grandmother) cook it into a rabbit stew on the open fire behind her shack. \"Once it was tender, we'd add potatoes and then mix some batter to make dumplings,\" she recalled. The meal had to be big enough to feed her entire family – more than a dozen people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHer Kokom cooked other game that Nottaway's family hunted – moose, deer or beaver, which Nottaway said tasted of water and earth. She made treats, too, like a maple-sap toffee called \u003Cem\u003Epikoodinigan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Algonquin. You could only make pikoodinigan in early spring, when trees swelled with sap. Her Kokom would pack some cast-iron pots and aluminium sheet pans, trek a few kilometres to a swath of maple trees, pitch a tent or build a small shack, and settle there for a month to do \"sugar-bushing\". She would draw the maple sap, cook it into a thick, sweet goo over an open fire, stirring vigorously, and then pour it onto the pans to congeal into crunchy, mahogany-coloured toffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EAshee k\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eygat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" she would yell at the kids running around, salivating at the sweet-smelling treats. \"That meant 'it’s almost ready', so we knew to get out of the way because the pot was hot,” Nottaway explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe sugar-bushing season is one of Nottaway's favourite memories. After her Kokom had made enough toffee for a year, she'd thank the trees for nourishing her family, tell the kids to do the same and head back to her shack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nottaway represents a growing number of Canadian Indigenous chefs diligently preserving and restoring their familial recipes and food traditions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShadowing her Kokom, Nottaway started cooking early, but she never thought she would be an award-winning chef. Now, she holds five prizes – including the Ottawa Rising Stars Award and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ey.com\u002Fen_ca\u002Fentrepreneur-of-the-year-canada\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYoung Entrepreneurs Award of Quebec\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – while staying true to her roots. For her, eating and cooking in a traditional Algonquin way is a way of remembering and preserving her history and culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I continue to eat the traditional foods because this is who I am,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Nottaway represents a growing number of Canadian Indigenous chefs diligently preserving and restoring their familial recipes and food traditions – a movement that’s part of a broader cultural reconciliation between Canadians of European descent and First Nations peoples whose ancestors were displaced centuries ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The rise of Indigenous chefs and cuisine is a critical sign and part of reconciliation,” said geographer Lenore Newman at the University of the Fraser Valley in British Columbia. “It is part of the Indigenous people claiming back their cultural sovereignty.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200309-ogopogo-the-monster-lurking-in-okanagan-lake\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's mysterious lake monster\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180222-the-tiny-village-hidden-inside-the-grand-canyon\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny village hidden inside the Grand Canyon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's unknown indigenous cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I learned to cook in the bush,” Nottaway said, but she also realised education was important and went to culinary school. She graduated from Algonquin College in 2005, and then settled in Kitigan Zibi, a First Nations’ reserve located 130km north of Ottawa. In 2009, she opened her own company, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.wawataycatering.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWawatay Catering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, out of her home, which prepares dishes like braised deer with tea, game stews and wild rice sushi, inspired by her Kokom’s simple recipes. The name means “Northern Lights” in Algonquin and holds a special meaning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We believe that the Northern Lights are the colours of the spirits of our ancestors,” Nottaway said. “They guide us from the spirit world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENottaway’s ancestors guided her well. Over the years, the Indigenous cooking she prepares in her log-house kitchen has not only reached new audiences throughout Quebec, but she’s also become something of a cultural ambassador for Algonquin cuisine. Five years ago, Nottaway fed former Canadian prime minister Joe Clark, who attended a lecture and dinner for truth and reconciliation in Ottawa. Another event included former Canadian governor general Michaëlle Jean. Earlier this year, she demonstrated her techniques at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurantscanada.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurants Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the country’s top food conference. Cooking with two other rising Indigenous chefs, Joseph Shawana from Toronto’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.kukum-kitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKu-Kum Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Christa Bruneau-Guenther from Winnipeg’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.feastcafebistro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeast Cafe Bistro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nottaway shared some of her Kokom’s “bush-cooking” recipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nottaway has become something of a cultural ambassador for Algonquin cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe simmered smoked moose meat and onions in tea, served fish balls made from hand-caught carp, and made pikoodinigan. Nottaway tossed the toffee bits onto shredded, dried mushrooms while the other two chefs sprinkled blueberries and cream onto the cracked mahogany-coloured toffee dish. As the trio served the crowds forming around the tasting table, Nottaway explained that these dishes are typically eaten at Indigenous cookouts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBush cooking wasn’t always hip. The British and French first established Canadian settlements in the 17th Century. By the 19th Century, cooking traditional Indigenous dishes in Canada carried a stigma of being poor, and of uneducated people charring bush meat on an open fire. According to Newman, from the nation’s founding in 1867 through to the late 1800s, Canada’s first prime minister John Alexander Macdonald tried to eradicate the nation’s Indigenous residents by wiping out the very food they ate. “He killed the bison, essentially starving them,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStarting in 1884, the country also ran government-sponsored assimilation programmes in which children were taken from their families and sent to “residential schools” to learn the European way of living and eating – and to forget their own culture and food. “Food is critical to a culture because cuisine is essentially a language,” Newman said. Just as language, hunting, fishing and knowing how to survive in the wild are all passed down from one generation to the next in Algonquin culture, so are family recipes, which Nottaway learned by watching her Kokom cook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENavigating the snowy forest landscape was one of the first things she learned from her mother and Kokom. “Don’t go out today, the snow’s falling hard, it will cover your tracks and you won't find your way home,” she remembers them saying. Sometimes they suggested taking a dog to guard against the wolves, but Nottaway didn't like that advice. The dog could scare the rabbits, and she was more concerned about her prey than the predators. After all, she came from a long line of strong and resilient people who weren’t scared easily.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat resilience carried Canada’s First Nations through the more-than-100-year assimilation programme, which only ended in 1996. In 2008, Stephen Harper, Canada’s then-prime minister formally \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Famericas\u002F7447811.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eapologised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the nation’s Indigenous residents for Canada’s history of forced assimilation. Then in 2017, Prime Minster Justin Trudeau again apologised for the “deep harm” inflicted on some 150,000 First Nation children through the programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Nottaway, these apologies caused Canadians who had never cared about Indigenous cuisine to suddenly become “super interested” in it. They also set the tone for a new era that allowed Canada’s Indigenous populations to reclaim their identity through age-old recipes and culinary traditions, including living off the land and in harmony with that land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENottaway’s Anishinabek family – a term encompassing several Indigenous groups and meaning “People of the Land” – has done that for generations. They know how to forage, hunt and fish with the seasons, following the food wherever it might be – rabbits in winter, blueberries in summer and maple syrup in spring. They believe that every plant and animal has a spirit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Before I make pikoodinigan, I always talk to my maple trees,” Nottaway said. “I ask them, ‘How are you guys? I hope you weren’t too cold this winter. Are you ready to work?’ And at the end, I say, ‘Thank you for all your maple.’”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery spring, her family also thanks the carp, which come from the bottom of Lake Rapid to spawn, so that the Anishinabek people can stock up on fish for the year. Catching carp by hand was another knack Nottaway learned early. She would wade into the creeks, stand thigh-deep in the freezing water and catch the carp in her open palms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You have to put your hands around them very gently, so they’d think you were just another fish. And then you’d go \u003Cem\u003Esnap\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and hold them by the heads, so they can’t wiggle out!” she said. “I’ve taught my kids to catch carp by hand too, and we still do it every spring.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this spring she couldn’t go carp fishing because of Covid-19. She was worried that if she carried the virus, she could bring it to people who live near where the fish spawn. “That’s the community where I was born, and it’s so remote that they don't even have a hospital, only a little clinic,” she said. “But I did speak with my fish spirit, and I said, ‘I’m sorry I couldn't visit you this year because of what’s going on’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, this spring, Nottaway was able to do something she’d never been able to do before. For years, she’d wanted to take her teenage daughter sugar-bushing, but she was always busy catering and her daughter always had school. But this year, with neither work nor school to stop them, Nottaway and her daughter packed some pots, chopped some wood and set up shop among the maple trees by their house, making pikoodinigan just like she did alongside her Kokom as a young girl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“I didn’t think it was possible for me to fall in love with sugar-bushing more than I already did,” she said. “But this year I loved it even more because I could experience all of it with my daughter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that means the tradition lives on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-05T13:53:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The chef preserving Canada's Indigenous identity","headlineShort":"Canada's Indigenous food renaissance","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.7432637","longitude":"-76.0892357","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In recent years, First Nation chefs like Marie-Cecile Nottaway have been reclaiming their families' generations-old recipes to feed new audiences.","summaryShort":"Chefs are turning to their ancestors' recipes and serving new audiences","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:59:42.005281Z","entity":"article","guid":"d28855cb-f24d-4c63-b251-4fbd5674f974","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:20:33.026848Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","_id":"62df812f43d9f457560e5675","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the lowest tides, Canada's Comox estuary exposes a nearly forgotten story: the nubs of more than 150,000 wooden stakes are spread out across the intertidal zone, forming the remnants of hundreds of ancient fish traps. At peak use, it's believed the industrial-level installation provided food security for an estimated 10,000-12,000 K'ómoks People, the traditional inhabitants of the bountiful, mountain-fringed Comox Valley, located on the east side of Vancouver Island on the edge of the Salish Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, the sophisticated technology had been overlooked by Western science. Even though the stakes, which are thumb-sized in diameter in the shallows and increase to the size of small tree trunks in deeper water, are visible from busy shore-side roads, no-one thought much about them. For Cory Frank, manager of the K'ómoks Guardian Watchmen, a role that oversees all aspects of environmental stewardship for the coastal Nation, the stakes were just something he grew up with, playing and fishing among them at low tide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he asked elders about them, they didn't have much information.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrank says this began to change almost two decades ago. In 2002, Nancy Greene, then an undergraduate anthropology student, began researching the stakes for her senior thesis. Greene (now a research archaeologist) wanted to know what they were for. So, working with a team of volunteers, she began heading out at low tide and spent months recording the locations of 13,602 exposed tips of Douglas fir and western red cedar stakes. At the same time, she began asking the K'ómoks elders what she was looking at.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen she plotted them out, taking into account the oral history, the results were astounding. The stakes formed a constellation outlining one of the most extensive and sophisticated Indigenous fishing operations ever found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People monitoring and restoring clam gardens at Russell Island sea garden, BC, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreene realised that the 150,000 to 200,000 stakes, representing more than 300 fish traps, filled the shallow wetland. Radiocarbon dating placed the ages to range from 1,300 to just more than 100 years old. For Frank, the most impressive thing about the system is the precision of the designs. \"My ancestors were amazing engineers,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe explained that once he started studying how it all worked, he realised the traps are based on a deep knowledge of fish behaviour and the region's large tidal ranges. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fprojectwatershed.ca\u002F2017\u002F06\u002F14\u002Fancient-fish-traps\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaid out in two styles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – one heart shaped and one chevron shaped – the traps were lined with removable woven-wood panels that let water through but not the fish. During a rising tide, the fish followed the centreline of the trap, which mimicked the shoreline they'd naturally follow, through an entrance and into the enclosure. When the tide receded; the fish inside the trap were stranded in shallow pools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDepending on the trap style and season, the stewards of the traps could target either herring or salmon, and manage how many salmon went on to spawn in the local creek systems. By doing this they were able to ensure they only took enough fish to meet community and trade needs. If a fish run looked weak, they could opt not to fish it at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201123-canadas-forgotten-hawaiian-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's forgotten Hawaiian islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's mysterious loch dwellers  \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnswering the question about how such an elegant and sustainable fishing technology fell into forgotten disuse requires an understanding of some of the darkest parts of Canadian history. In what's now known as British Columbia, dozens of coastal nations thrived for thousands of years. But with the arrival of explorers, traders and settlers, disease and law were used to forcibly separate Indigenous people from their culture and land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When 80 to 90% of the population died, they lost their knowledge holders and the intricate skills and protocols that made these technologies work,\" said Anne Salomon, an applied marine ecologist who has been working alongside coastal Indigenous communities for 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Over thousands of years, they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESalomon explained that the Indian Act of 1876 forcibly removed people to reserves and cultural practices were outlawed. People lost physical access to their fish traps and sea gardens. \"Over thousands of years they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology,\" she said. \"When they lost agency over their land, they lost part of their identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beaches with lots of shell fragments in Gulf Island National Park Reserve","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the scientific community has been expressing surprise over the extensive nature of traditional coastal mariculture (information that's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcanada\u002Fbritish-columbia\u002Fclam-gardens-call-into-question-hunter-gatherer-past-of-b-c-first-nations-1.3068709\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esmashed the long-held stereotype\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that this was a population of unsophisticated hunter-gathers), Nicole Norris, a knowledge holder for the Hul'q'umi'num Nation and an aquaculture specialist, says the communities themselves had never forgotten. \"These were our grocery stores,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat \u003Cem\u003Ehas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E surprised Norris over the years she's spent exploring the British Columbia coast is how the technologies differ from nation to nation yet are perfectly adapted to each location. While the K'ómoks People used stakes with lattice fences to manage and sustain what was once one of the region's most productive fish runs, in her own territory around the Gulf Islands, the Hul'q'umi'num and W̱SÁNEĆ People stacked rocks \"like Tetris\" to build low walls running parallel to the shore. These walls were designed to trap silt, which changed the slope of the beach to create \"sea gardens\" – large, flat inter-tidal areas that, once cleared of large rocks, were carefully tended to create the ideal habitat for clams, crab, sea cucumbers, rockfish, octopus, whelks and other marine life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the winding inlets and islets of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Fbroughton\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBroughton Archipelago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Provincial Park, the technology changes again. Here, the Kwakwaka'wakw People built monumental rock walls, large enough to be seen from space, to create the ideal water depth to encourage clam growth in the shallow bays. Norris says they also built the rock walls into spiral-shaped gardens that created flattened areas that could take advantage of the region’s unique swirling currents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill further north, in the inner waterways and islands that make up part of Heiltsuk territory, Haíɫzaqv archaeologist Q̓íx̌itasu, also known as Elroy White, says his ancestors built stone-walled sea\u002Fclam gardens (called λápac̓i) and a wide variety of stone fish traps (called Ckvá) that were specifically designed depending on if they were \"on a tidal flat, or in a creek or at the mouth of a river\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were built so solidly that they wouldn't fall apart by actions of a river, or by the tide or if a canoe hit it,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor his thesis, \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsummit.sfu.ca\u002Fitem\u002F4240\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeiltsuk Stone Fish Traps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", White combined archaeology with oral history to gradually unravel the interconnection of rock-walled fish traps and his ancestors' relationship to salmon. He explained that when he began visiting the sites, he saw how the ancient fish trap technology and resource management system didn't just shape the tidal landscape, they shaped his culture and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rocky mounds in sea garden in Haida Gwaii, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I noticed a difference between archaeological and Heiltsuk views of the trap sites,\" he wrote in his thesis. He says traditional scientific research emphasised empirical data such as length, width and height and missed the human element; \"the important relationships my ancestors had with the environment, with salmon and with the fishing technology designed to capture them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe idea that you can't separate Indigenous culture from the lands that shaped them has been slowly taking hold in the scientific community on British Columbia's coast. Norris says that for a long time her people had no access to part of their lands because \"an arbitrary line was drawn making it a national park\". But after several rock walls were spotted at low tide in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGulf Island National Park Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (GINPR) and the decision was made in 2014 to restore a couple of the gardens, Norris says that Parks Canada did something profound: \"They asked for guidance from the First Nations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe abundance of even long-abandoned gardens found on British Columbia's coast is staggering. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC3949788\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EResearch shows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the terraced gardens, which Indigenous people have been building for at least 3,500 years, are 150 to 300% more productive than wild beaches in producing littleneck and butter clams, as well as other marine organisms. Erin Slade, a marine ecologist with the GINPR's sea garden restoration project, says this indicates that the techniques once used to steward the gardens have a lot to teach us. While national park scientists, like Slade, could have attempted to reverse-engineer the sea gardens through science alone, they opted to reinstate traditional management and stewardship practices by inviting the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\u002Fnature\u002Frestauration-restoration\u002Fjardins-de-la-mer-sea-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EW̱SÁNEĆ and Hul'q'umi'num Nations back to their lands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible,\" said Norris. So on the first gathering at a clam garden just off of Salt Spring Island, she told everyone to put their science away, asked for guidance from the ancestors and started at the beginning: \"This is how far you put your rake in. This is how wind or salinity or time of year affects the clams.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe moment Indigenous people returned to their sea gardens and fish traps was the moment the technology stopped being about the past and became about the future. In Heiltsuk territory, the fish traps are starting to support local tourism as a stop on \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hauyat.ca\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evirtual\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yuwala-marinecharters.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein person\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cultural tours and there are plans to integrate more traditional fishing methods into community life. Today, Haíɫzaqv visit the sites as a sacred reminder of their grandparents and great grandparents' strong connection to the land and sea and all it has to teach them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the GINPR, Slade says other communities have begun using their research to reestablish their own gardens – an ecological boost not just for the beaches being managed, but for the overall abundance of sea life on the coast that the biomass in the gardens can support. Slade says the expected increase in marine life is important, but the most significant part of restoring sea gardens has been in reinvigorating the teaching relationships between elders and youth. \"This knowledge has been generated over millennia of stewarding these places; it's something that was always meant to be passed on generation through generation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-14T19:35:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An underwater mystery on Canada's coast","headlineShort":"A mystery off Canada's coast","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.6506","longitude":"-125.4494","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","summaryShort":"Until recently, these ancient sea gardens were overlooked by Western science","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-13T19:36:59.217233Z","entity":"article","guid":"118e63da-216e-4062-a300-ea0170e999db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:06:10.117003Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america","_id":"62e850a843d9f4570f24c794","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-selkirk"],"bodyIntro":"In Quebec, the tale of the \"three sisters\" isn't just a myth about cooperation; it's a message from Wendat ancestors that teaches modern people about ancient, life-sustaining food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Huron-Wendat legend, when the daughter of the original mother passed away, her body gave the world three sisters. In the story, each sister is unique: one stands tall, her long yellow hair blows in the wind. Another wears a bright yellow dress and is known to run off on her own. The third is so young she can only crawl along the ground. Only by working together are they able to flourish and grow – so the trio became inseparable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the sisters aren't people. They're crops: corn, squash and beans. And the story isn't just an old myth about cooperation, now shared with tourists who visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmuseehuronwendat.ca\u002Fen\u002Factivities\u002Fmaison-longue-nationale-ekionkiestha\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEkionkiestha' National Longhouse at the Huron-Wendat Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, just outside Quebec City. It's a message from the ancestors of the First Nation that teaches modern Wendat people about the ancient, life-sustaining foods – and a companion planting technique called intercropping that's so important it survived all the turmoil and cultural losses that came with colonisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Before our dispossession, Lake Huron was our home for centuries,\" said Johanne Paquet Sioui, a Wendat seed keeper and farmer. With arable land that stretched from Georgian Bay on Lake Huron to the shores of Lake Simcoe, the region known historically as Wendake or Huronia supported 30,000 to 35,000 Wendat people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey lived in settlements surrounded by defensive palisades, with each village containing as many as 100 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftechnology\u002Flonghouse\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elonghouses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Shared by four or five families, the large rectangular homes were built from log frames and covered with rounded roofs and walls made of cedar, fir or spruce bark. Windowless – the longhouses had two entrances, one at each end. Inside, the walls would have been lined with shelf-like beds that had food storage above them and wood piles beneath. Running in a row down the centre would have been cooking fires where a one-pot meal made from corn, beans and squash, called \u003Cem\u003Esagamité\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, may have simmered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack then, the three sisters made up some 60-80% of the Wendat diet, and the Wendat culture, like many others across North America, was centred on the plants' cultivation. Sioui said the men cleared the land and then the women and children would build up dirt piles and plant the beans. As the small seedlings began to grow, the farmers returned and placed corn kernels in the centre of the mounds (theories vary on whether it was corn or beans that were planted first). Next, winter squash was sown. As the plants matured, the cornstalks served as bean poles while the large squash leaves shaded the soil, creating a microclimate that preserved moisture and inhibited weeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cqfvjv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday we know that planting corn, beans and squash together \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fagriculture.canada.ca\u002Fen\u002Fagri-info\u002Fbetter-grown-together\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresults in better disease resistance, less reliance on fertilisers and improved crop yields\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But for the Wendat people, it was a sacred act that respected ancient teachings. \"We don't pray, instead we're taught to make thanksgiving,\" said Sioui. \"For everything we are grateful for, we learn we have a responsibility to keep it that way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the end of the growing season, the vegetables were harvested and stored for winter. Corn and beans were dried and kept in the longhouse in bark or wooden containers. As far as possible, everything was used. Corn husks were braided for rope and twine, or used as filling for pillows and mattresses. The best seeds were selected and saved for the next season's planting by the seed keepers, whose job it is to collect and protect seeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut by 1650, the farms and village sites of Huronia or Wendake were empty. Thousands of Huron-Wendat people had succumbed to diseases including smallpox, influenza and measles, while others perished in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Firoquois-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench and Iroquois Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a series of territorial and trade battles between the French, Haudenosaunee (Iroquois), English and other First Nations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What they didn't lose were their seeds","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnly some 500 Huron-Wendat are said to have survived and escaped, and for 200 years, they didn't have a homeland. \"The old and the young died. They lost almost everything… their homes, their culture, their skills,\" said Sioui. What they didn't lose were their seeds, and every year, as they moved across the landscape, the men prepared the land, and the women planted the three sisters. And every year, after the harvest, the seed keepers saved seeds for the next spring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen, in 1853, the Huron-Wendat People were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nrcan.gc.ca\u002Fsites\u002Fwww.nrcan.gc.ca\u002Ffiles\u002Fearthsciences\u002Fpdf\u002Fland-surveys\u002FVILLAGE_DES_HURONS_ANG.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eallotted reserve land\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; according to the Indian Act, it measured three by five miles and was located at the edge of Quebec City in what was then Lower Canada. They had a home, but as on most reserves in Canada, there was no arable space provided for agriculture or other food production.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The last garden we harvested was in 1853,\" said Sioui.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cqfvln"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe three sisters don't just nurture the soil and each other. According to Sioui, the three vegetables combined are exceptionally nutritious. Studies say that a diet based on maize, beans and squash can \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fojs.ethnobiology.org\u002Findex.php\u002Febl\u002Farticle\u002Fview\u002F721\u002F413\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E meet peoples' basic energy and protein requirements\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and can also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fplayer\u002Fplay\u002F2040102979639\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehelp guard against diabetes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They're also high in antioxidants and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fitcaonline.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2011\u002F11\u002FThree-Sisters-edited.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprovide trace minerals and folate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which guards against birth defects. But with the loss of farmland and the introduction of European staples including sugar, flour and butter, this ancient diet was almost completely replaced. The results were catastrophic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EElders say that the loss of traditional foods is almost as damaging as the loss of language. Losing food systems severs a people's relationship with the natural world, the land, the plants and the seasons. It also takes away the intergenerational skills and celebrations that revolve around food sovereignty: spreading seeds or saving them, gathering together for harvests or for feasts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"First Nations people have forgotten they were farmers. For a long time, we've just been survivors.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKyle Bobiwash, assistant professor in the Department of Entomology and the Indigenous scholar for the faculty of Agricultural and Food Sciences at the University of Manitoba, said this is why it's so important for Indigenous people to be supported by governments and scientists as they relearn their traditions. \"First Nations people have forgotten they were farmers. For a long time, we've just been survivors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs one of the collaborators on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fagriculture.canada.ca\u002Fen\u002Fnews-agriculture-and-agri-food-canada\u002Fscientific-achievements-agriculture\u002Fthree-sisters-optimizing-value-and-food-potential-ancestral-indigenous-crop-system\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThree Sisters research project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Quebec, which focuses on Indigenous-led agriculture alongside Huron-Wendat and Haudenosaunee people and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fagriculture.canada.ca\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgriculture and Agri-Food Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Bobiwash said the project is guided by the ongoing goals of the Indigenous participants. After moving through the first phase in 2015, which included a search for ancestral seeds –that turned up Algonquin white and red Mohawk maize, Amish nuttle (also called corn hill) and macuzalito beans, and Algonquin Canada crookneck squash – the project turned to studying the comparative nutritional components of the ancestral plants. After that, they experimented with bean and corn flours to make a modern version of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rcinet.ca\u002Fen\u002F2018\u002F08\u002F13\u002Fwhite-corn-or-the-taste-of-mohawk-hospitality\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etraditional Mohawk cornbread\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We (scientists) are not here to validate this type of food or of intercropping – we can already look back at thousands of years and see the productivity,\" Bobiwash said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead, the project is designed to offer support and agency while Indigenous communities decide what they want to know or learn about their traditional crops. At the same time, the scholars and scientists are trying to discover what else the three sisters can teach us about biodiversity and sustainability. \"We know we need to do agriculture differently… to think about food systems differently,\" said Bobiwash, and bringing Indigenous knowledge and values into agriculture might be one solution. \"The ancestors knew these systems worked; they may not have known why, but maybe that information was lost along the way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the Huron-Wendat begin to reclaim their traditional food systems through the Three Sister's project, small community gardens and demonstration plantings at Huron-Wendat Museum, they've been able to strengthen their culture. At the same time, other aspects of Wendat heritage are also being revitalised. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flanguewendat.com\u002Fen\u002Frevitalisation\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWendat language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which nearly went extinct, is now taught in primary schools and to interested adults. And tourism is offering a way for young people to be proud of their culture while sharing their knowledge and history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Huron-Wendat Museum and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.huron-wendat.qc.ca\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHuron Traditional Site Onhoüa Chetek8e\u003C\u002Fa\u003E show how rich the past was – with full-size replica longhouses and opportunities for visitors to learn about the culture through hands-on experiences like canoeing or making a traditional talking stick, which was used in longhouses to determine who had the right to speak. The new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fonhwalumina.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOnhwa' Lumina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E night walk helps bring the language and culture to life with a high-tech collaboration that tells ancient Wendat stories through lights and sound in a forested setting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cqfwbm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frestaurantlatraite.ca\u002F\"\u003ELa Traite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a gourmet restaurant in Wendake, patrons are able to taste dishes influenced by Indigenous foods – including a modern take on sagamité. The kitchen is newly helmed by Marc de Passorio, a Michelin-starred chef who came to Le Traite for the opportunity to learn from Indigenous cooks and Elders. \"Today I am a complete apprentice: I try to see, understand and experience as much as possible from the First Nations,\" he said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith 11 Indigenous Nations spread across Quebec in 55 communities, de Passorio is making a point of getting out on the land and to learn how Indigenous elders hunt, fish, harvest and prepare their traditional foods. Then he and his all-Indigenous kitchen team adapt the ingredients and cooking techniques for contemporary palates. \"The First Nations people didn't use salt, so we add that. But we don't play too much with tradition. We want to be respectful.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe goal is to have a seasonal menu that incorporates the different berries, spices, woods, meats and vegetables he learns about as he travels to communities around the province. \"People in different places harvest different foods at different times and use them in different ways, so I am gathering recipes and ideas,\" he said. \"I ask everyone what they eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the seasonal menu will reflect what he learns; the simple soup of beans, corn and squash will always remain the star. \"I learned the story of the three sisters when I came. Before then, I had cooked beans, corn and squash, but never together. But together they are… fantastic,\" he said. \"Our menu will change, but the sagamité will never come off – it's too important.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESioui, who is culturally tasked with saving the seeds after each harvest and for the future, agrees. When she thinks of what it took for the seeds to survive, it becomes hard for her to speak, \"They are good for our health, good for our heritage. They are holy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cqfvv4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThree-Sisters Sagamité\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EBy Marc de Passorio (La Traite)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes a light soup, suitable for a starter\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E40g dried black beans\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E20g dried white beans\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E0.4kg butternut squash\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E20g corn\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ onion, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2l vegetable broth\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E5g fresh sage, chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Efleur de sel to taste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epepper to taste \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E1. Soak the beans in water overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2. The next day, drain the beans, and then fill a pot with water and add the beans to it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E3. Cook over low heat for two hours or until tender. Drain the beans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E4. Cut the butternut squash into pieces and add it to the corn and onion, and then sauté in oil for 30 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E5. Season with salt and pepper and add sage and beans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E6. Separately, heat the broth and then pour over even portions of the three sisters' preparation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E7. Serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-02T10:51:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The sacred 'sisters' of ancient America","headlineShort":"North America's sacred trio of foods","image":["p0cqfvhk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.8569867","longitude":"-71.3602514","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cqfvhk"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Quebec, the tale of the \"three sisters\" isn't just a myth about cooperation; it's a message from Wendat ancestors that teaches modern people about ancient, life-sustaining food.","summaryShort":"This ancient diet was almost completely replaced, with catastrophic results","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-01T22:15:51.005599Z","entity":"article","guid":"49cb95af-fc74-4004-976e-2f659b659ba0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-01T22:15:51.005599Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fquebec-city","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_quebec-city_north-america_canada_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","_id":"62df7f4243d9f46d9838b606","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding on top of Correen More hill in the middle of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWild Nephin National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in County Mayo, you can see miles and miles of uninterrupted bogland, a carpet of orange and brown stretching into the distance across ridges, up over hills and down along valleys dotted with forests and lakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo the west, from this 285m-high lookout point, the views stretch all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, to the grey-blue of Bellacragher Bay and further on to the pointy dark peak of Slievemore Mountain on Achill Island, 32km away as the crow flies. To the north is Bellacorick wind farm, 16km away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween here and there is a wilderness that looks untouched. There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires, no houses or villages, visible in any direction. The land is empty, and one of Ireland's six national parks, named Wild Nephin after the Nephin Beg Mountain range, this is said to be the loneliest. Some even say it contains Ireland's loneliest place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt does not feel bleak or desolate though, thanks to the warm reds and golds of the bog. In the distance, patches of green forest carpet the sides of a valley and nearby lakes look like tiny puddles, reflecting the sky. Underfoot, the bogland is grassy, mossy and wet, and rocky in some parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Landscape of brown and green rolling hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECounty Mayo is one of the most westerly parts of Ireland's Atlantic coast. Go 1km from Newport village, and there's a turn off the N59 (signposted for Furnace) which brings you onto the road to Letterkeen, where there's an entrance to Wild Nephin. As civilisation falls away, there's a feeling of driving into the middle of nowhere, as I found when I followed this road along the edge of Lough Feeagh while the sun lit up Ben Gorm mountain behind it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Irish landscape sometimes has a magical, mischievous air, and this day was no exception as a rainbow appeared right in the middle of the road. I drove on over bumps and hills, following the twists and bends. Around one, a pretty stone house with a brown and white cat sitting outside appeared, like something from a children's fairytale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Letterkeen, at the end of the road that narrows to a gravel trail, I came to a small stone bothy (a small hut that serves as a shelter) and carpark. There was nobody around – and no phone signal. It felt a bit eerie. An information panel about Wild Nephin Wilderness outlined how the area will in time become truly wild.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Ireland's biggest wilderness, which is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow the bog and forest go back to their natural state even if much of the land has always been wild. Wet and boggy, it was unsuitable for tillage, and the lack of shelter meant it was hard on livestock too, although it's been grazed by sheep since the mid-1800s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A sheep looks up from grazing in wet land","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was Irish naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger who described the Nephin Beg mountains in 1937 as \"the very loneliest place in this country, for the hills themselves are encircled by this vast area of trackless bog\", and little seems to have changed since then.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FThe_Way_That_I_Went.html?id=Tcj_nQEACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Way That I Went\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Praeger described this area as a houseless and roadless 200 square miles of \"nothing but brown heather\", but found the place \"not lonely or depressing but inspiriting\". He wrote, \"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature, and you may feel dimly something of your own littleness and your own greatness…\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESomeone who also finds the landscape full of spirit is Michael Chambers, head guide at Wild Nephin National Park, who grew up in the townland of Srahmore on the southern edge of the park. We met at the bothy at Letterkeen, which is named the Robert Lloyd Prager Centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven before he worked here, Chambers spent years exploring every inch of the land, looking for places he'd heard about in childhood stories and discovering some of its extraordinary secrets. As we crossed the rushing Altaconey River and walked past knee-deep heather along the banks, Chambers told me that he loves how you can reconnect with nature here. \"As you go into the park, there's no evidence of man's impression on the landscape. It's a natural landscape, left intact, where you can become one with the natural world around you,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature – Robert Lloyd Praeger","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the landscape seems empty, beneath the surface are layers of history and stories so fascinating they sometimes leave shivers. From Letterkeen, the Bangor Trail runs 26km to the town of Bangor Erris, following an ancient path where drovers moved livestock between there and the town of Newport. The full 40km trail dates back to at least the 16th Century and is older than many of the surrounding villages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperienced hikers describe the trail as one of Ireland's most challenging, with shin-deep soggy bogland, streams and hills – and no exit route. In the past, as roads were built, the trail became disused, so conditions deteriorated. But as well as stories of wet gear, there are darker tales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChambers told local stories of highwaymen along the trail; for example, the story of a young girl returning from selling cattle at the market, who was murdered. The robbers could not find her money but later, when her family was laying her out for the funeral, they found she'd hidden it in the bun of her hair. Her ghost is said to wander the trail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are remains of old cottages, some abandoned during \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0003rj1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Great Hunger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the famine of 1845-1852, when many tenants were evicted, plus old famine graves – mass graves of people who lost their lives along the Bangor Trail while walking to the town of Westport to catch a boat to emigrate across the Atlantic to America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he was young, Chambers heard stories from his father and grandfather of caves sheltering rebels in 1921 during the War of Independence. He was always looking out for the caves, and on a walk in 2016, he followed a fox and found a cave on Ben Gorm that had human remains from the Neolithic period 5,600 years ago. Carbon dating showed it was a ritual site used for more than 1,000 years to prepare bodies for the afterlife (the remains are still being studied and will later go to the National Museum).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man in blue jacket walks right along a river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe national park was established in 1998 originally as Ballycroy National Park, and in 2009, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002Fvisit-us\u002Fvisitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built at Ballycroy, with an exhibition on the park's habitat and species. There's a 2km looped trail at the centre, but the main body of the park starts 3km to the east and stretches more than 15,000 hectares past the Nephin Beg mountains, taking in the 721m Slieve Carr, said to be Ireland's most remote mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park was extended when 4,000 hectares of commercial forest (called Nephin Forest) was taken over in 2017 and was renamed Wild Nephin National Park a year later. Since then, around 10,000 native trees have been planted – including sessile oak, birch, rowan, alder, poplar and native Scots pine – which would have covered the area 4,000 years ago, before a wetter climate and more rainfall led to the formation of the bogs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park's Owenduff bog is one of the last intact active \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishbogrestorationproject.ie\u002Fabout_bogs.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblanket bogs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E left in Western Europe. Bogs like these are important in the battle against climate change because they store so much carbon. In the past, forestry drained huge areas, releasing the carbon and leading to flooding. The conservation plan to rewild the bogs back to their natural state includes removing the conifers and blocking up the drains to keep the wetlands wet and the carbon stores intact.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOvergrazing of sheep also damaged the vegetation. Chambers said there is evidence that the vegetation is recovering and attracting wildlife again. Birds like the golden plover and red head grouse are once more nesting these sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe saw a red deer on our walk. The area is attracting native animals like the pine marten, cait crann in Irish (tree cat), plus field mice, otters, badgers and foxes. Birds include finches, sand martins, dippers, dunnocks, swallows and cuckoo. In winter, whooper swans and white fronted geese come to feed. There are herons and ducks, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocal hiker Rosanna Loftus from Crossmalina said she started hiking in the park on the Letterkeen looped trails (6km, 10km and 12km) and then worked up to the Bangor Trail. \"It's absolutely beautiful in the park,\" she said. \"You just get lost in your thoughts. There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoftus said that meeting others in the park is so rare that people stop and chat when they do – however, she didn't meet anyone else on the Bangor Trail, even on a sunny July day. She loves that it's not crowded like some other parks. \"It's a blessing to have, you have peace of mind and quiet to just enjoy it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother local hiker, Trish Reddington from Castlebar, said her first experience of the park was a three-day trek on the Bangor Trail while studying outdoor education.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was amazing. We stayed in the bothy and we camped out the second night. We were eaten alive by midges, we got drowned wet and fell into bog holes, but it was the best experience ever,\" she told me. \"It wasn't until then that I realised this wilderness was out there. When you get there, you feel like you're far away from everything and everyone. It's just so remote, the fact that you can go in there and just walk for 10 hours and not meet anybody. When you really get into the national park, you don't hear the outside world, you just hear nature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Far out hills under a cloudy sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECamping is allowed in designated spots in the park; as well as the bothy, there are two mountain meitheals (open wooden shelters). Also, the park is rebuilding some stone herders houses along the Bangor Trail and the Western Way (a 124km trail that partly runs through the park) so people can stay overnight. It's planned that around three of these will be ready to open this year, and on a clear night, the park is the perfect spot to admire the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe night sky is so unpolluted by light that it is home to Mayo Dark Sky Park, one of the world's few Gold Tier dark sky parks – meaning certain phenomena like the Milky Way and faint meteors are visible. There are three official dark sky viewing points – the most remote is at the Robert Lloyd Praeger Centre – and there are plans for an observatory and planetarium in the future. During a night winter lantern guided walk, Georgia MacMillan, the Dark Sky Park's development officer, explained how constantly being exposed to artificial light (even from streetlights) negatively affects our circadian rhythms and also impacts wildlife and biodiversity. And while the night sky views are amazing, even on a cloudy night, you might have a divine experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The park is called after the Nephin Beg mountain range, which means heaven and heavenly,\" said Chambers, referring to the Irish word, néifinn. \"The Nephin Beg mountains are my little piece of heaven.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-26T18:58:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness, Wild Nephin National Park","headlineShort":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.0244585","longitude":"-9.8233278","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","summaryShort":"There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-25T22:18:21.81359Z","entity":"article","guid":"80302149-9c8e-4f56-97dd-4a9a38a2dbe2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:57.678636Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic","_id":"62df7ed843d9f46f447469c8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While searching for a new path in life, two former nuns created a wondrous \"Coastal Camino\" that is bringing travellers to an otherwise neglected part of Northern Ireland.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe phrase \"Lockdown baby\" is, I confess, not one I ever thought I'd hear coming from a nun. But standing on the edge of Strangford Lough in County Down, Northern Ireland, around 50 miles from the capital city of Belfast, Elaine Kelly is showing me her new, wondrous creation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is not an actual baby, of course, rather a walk in the form of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdiscovernorthernireland.com\u002Fwhats-on\u002Fsaint-patricks-coastal-camino-p771781\"\u003Eone-day pilgrim path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called St Patrick’s Coastal Camino that takes in key ecclesiastical sections of the Lecale Coast on the country's eastern edge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI say nun, but actually Kelly and her co-guide Martina Purdy are former nuns – though not by choice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We were informed in 2019 – before we were able to make our final vows in 2023 – that our congregation had grown too small to make our vocations viable,\" explained Kelly, when I met her at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saintpatrickcentre.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Patrick Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Downpatrick, the only permanent exhibition in the world dedicated to Ireland's patron saint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We were stripped of our habits, congregation, way of life and home in a single moment,\" Purdy added, \"it would have been so easy to lose faith.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Elaine Kelly and Martina Purdy walking on the wild Lecale Coast","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt was not the first time these two women's lives had dramatically changed. Kelly is a former barrister who used to specialise in family law; while Purdy was a leading political correspondent for the BBC who grilled many politicians, gaining a reputation as a no-nonsense journalist during her coverage both of The Troubles and the eventual signing of the Good Friday Agreement, which saw peace finally come to Northern Ireland in 1998.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"While interviewing politicians I realised increasingly that I was thinking more and more that this person needs a lot of prayer,\" she explained. \"Then in 2014 I decided to take the plunge and give up my career to devote my life to God.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park\"\u003EIreland's loneliest wilderness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210504-the-plan-to-connect-every-british-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe plan to connect every British town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160615-the-pirate-queen-of-county-mayo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIreland's fearless pirate queens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBased in Belfast, the Sisters of Adoration are a Catholic order founded in 1848, but as with most religious organisations, waning bums on seats and with them donations, mean that money is tight – and that's even before counting the cost of Brexit and the Covid pandemic on people's incomes. It was during the latter that, while searching for answers as to what to do with their lives now they'd quite literally lost their way, they stumbled across another path – on a map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELook at an Ordnance Survey map of this section of the coast, running between Killian Point to the north and Newcastle to the south, and there's a marked trail named the Lecale Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"But it wasn't always called that,\" said Kelly, as we took a minibus to a place called Ballyhoran Bay and stepped down onto the beach where the waves pulled and pushed the small pebbles on the shore. She took out her own well-used Ordnance Survey map and pointed to several broken lines that indicated walking trails close to where we were. Sure enough, the words \"St Patrick's Way\" (not to be confused with the 82-mile \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwalkni.com\u002Fmourne-mountains\u002Fsaint-patricks-way-the-pilgrims-walk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Patrick's Way\u003C\u002Fa\u003E founded in 2015 by artist Alan Graham that runs between Armagh and Downpatrick) were printed in black ink – though no longer seemed to form a coherent trail with many sections petering out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“Colloquially it was called the St Patrick’s Way or The Pilgrim’s Way because of its close links with Patrick,” she explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"St Patrick gravestone at Down Cathedrral, Downpatrick","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter losing their positions at the convent, the women were asked by Dr Tim Campbell, director at the Downpatrick Centre, to come on board as walking guides sharing their passion and knowledge about the patron saint. At first, they took people to sites around Downpatrick, including the cathedral, his gravestone and the largest statue of him in the world that sits atop Slieve Patrick. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey had already worked on the idea of connecting those sites on a 27km trail they named The Pilgrim Walk, Downpatrick. But during the restrictions on groups meeting during the first lockdown in March 2020, the tours were postponed. Both seeking thinking space, they headed to the Irish Sea a short drive away to visit the site where Patrick was said to have landed at Strangford Lough in 432 – and their new walk was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe coast here feels incredibly wild. Scouring from the last Ice Age has created sections of cleaved cliffs and smooth rocks topped by long grass and wildflowers. Islands are peppered in the water just steps from the mainland where gannets dart below the surface and seals bob above the waves. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Ireland's soon-to-be patron saint came here, it was not his first visit. Surprisingly he wasn't actually from the country himself, but rather Roman Britain – though whether his home was actually Wales, England or Scotland is still a much-debated issue. At the age of 16, he was kidnapped by slave traders and sold to an owner who set him to work on Slemish Mountain in County Antrim (50 miles north of Downpatrick) as a shepherd. While there, it's believed he dreamed of escaping and, after God visited him in a dream, managed to realise his wish thanks to some sailors who he – legend has it – converted to Christianity on the journey home to be reunited with his family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Holy well of St Patrick with crucifix","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe'd certainly be forgiven for choosing never to step foot in the place again, yet he wrote in his Confessions – itself the oldest piece of writing to come out of Ireland – that he was compelled to return on a mission to unite the Celtic Pagans at this land \"at the end of the world\" by spreading the word of God. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"He walked where we are walking now,\" said Purdy, as the wind whipped the froth off the top of the waves and a near-Biblical grey mist descended all about us. \"Yet as Northern Ireland became secularised the more neutral Lecale Way was used officially [as the route's name], but we think people need to be reminded of the ancient connections – even if they are not religious or Christian.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat’s why they christened their hike St Patrick’s Coastal Camino, which sees hikers also visit an ancient holy well, whose presence can be traced back more than 1,000 years. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We think people need to be reminded of the ancient connections – even if they are not religious or Christian","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irelandhighlights.com\u002Finfo\u002Fardtole-church-ardglass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"Wives of fishermen and farmers would come here to ask for a bountiful harvest,\" explained Kelly, as we summitted a high sand dune to reveal a large crucifix above a stone-encircled water hole. \"It's where Patrick baptised his first converts, and many people believed it could cure all ailments.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Purdy, the discovery of the well – which she stumbled across while taking in the coastal highlights – proved something of a cure for the loss of direction in her life since being forced out of the Sisterhood. It allowed her to link together several Patrician heritage sites to create this new spiritual pathway to share with others. The route includes the well, the ruins of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irelandhighlights.com\u002Finfo\u002Fardtole-church-ardglass\u002F\"\u003EArdtole Church\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the medieval fishing village of Ardglass – where this seven-mile pilgrimage ends before a bus takes walkers back to Downpatrick to see the reputed grave of the saint outside the cathedral by the Saint Patrick Centre where we began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Ardglass harbour and village in County Down Northern Ireland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saintpatrickcentre.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fsaint-patricks-way-camino-and-canoe-adventure\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"The first pilgrims who came on our walk were locals,\" she explained, \"but then we found we had nurses and doctors signing up too – as a way to get a break from everything they were dealing with. They loved it and some decided to sign up for more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey weren't the only ones. Since the mini-pilgrimage launched, numbers have been steadily growing – despite Covid. And, off the back of the success of the Coastal Camino, Purdy and Kelly have launched other St Patrick-themed experiences, including a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saintpatrickcentre.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fsaint-patricks-way-camino-and-canoe-adventure\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamino and Canoe Adventure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – reflecting the fact that the saint himself arrived here on the water – as well as a bilingual walk conducted in both English and Irish and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saintpatrickcentre.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fpatrick-and-the-pagan-hills\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that combines important Pagan sites with Christian ones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot long after I left Northern Ireland, I heard that Purdy and Kelly's prayers were answered; they had been accepted as Sisters of Poor Clare in County Louth and could complete their vows as nuns. Giving Purdy time – as she said – to finally pray for all the politicians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut they won't turn their backs on their lockdown baby. They have confirmed they will come back to guide on their beloved Camino in the summer. And, for future pilgrims hoping to follow them, I'm sure they will thank St Patrick for that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-07T21:27:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A discovery of Northern Ireland's lost holy relic","headlineShort":"The discovery of an ancient holy well","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.328751","longitude":"-5.715692","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While searching for a new path in life, two former nuns created a wondrous \"Coastal Camino\" that is bringing travellers to an otherwise neglected part of Northern Ireland.","summaryShort":"It's bringing travellers to an otherwise neglected part of Northern Ireland","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-06T21:31:11.082456Z","entity":"article","guid":"69750cf2-eb78-44e7-93a9-869ef46e31e5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:28.002057Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon","_id":"62df7f6c43d9f4586f68521a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan"],"bodyIntro":"Sally Ferns Barnes' wild smoked salmon is beloved by epicureans, yet the dwindling numbers of the fish in Irish rivers mean it becomes rarer with every passing year.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis year, Sally Ferns Barnes will take just 225 wild Atlantic salmon into her tiny smokery in West Cork, Ireland. Last year it was 370. She is the last person in Ireland to exclusively smoke wild fish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe salmon will be fished from the Blackwater River by Mikey Walsh and Eamon Uniacke, who continue a tradition laid down by generations of their families. Walsh is a fifth-generation salmon fisherman, but low quota means less income, so he also drives the local school bus and tends a farm. Uniacke rents out bouncy castles and has a coach hire business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBarnes smoked her first fish in 1979: mackerel, over an old tea chest with wood chippings and a damp sackcloth. Her then-husband, Colin, was a fisherman; he'd bring home mackerel, crayfish, lobster, crab and salmon. Some of the catch would feed them and their two children; whatever remained, Barnes preserved to sell or barter with neighbours in exchange for potatoes and seasonal gluts. Life in Ireland's coastal villages was hard, and these communities sustained each other by sharing food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe last year Colin fished for salmon at sea, in 1979, he didn't get paid. His buyer, after negotiating a price for the salmon, took the entire catch, prepared, smoked and sold the lot, and then drank every penny away. After paying for crew and provisions, Barnes and Colin were left hopelessly in debt. The buyer eventually handed over a kiln in partial restitution for the money owed, which Barnes used to teach herself how to cold-smoke salmon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECold smoking is a delicate method of preserving fish. Unlike hot smoking, which cooks the fish and results in a product with a short shelf life, cold smoking is more akin to dehydration, extending shelf life for months. Wood is set to smoke at a low temperature away from a chamber where salt-cured fish is hung. Smoke travels along a pipe into the chamber, gently enveloping the wild fish in a preserving vapour of smoke, forcing out moisture and preserving flavour. Cold-smoking fish is a labour-intensive process, from the preparation of the fillets to salt curing and smoking. It results in a food of high skill, high regard and high value, and is an ideal income generator for fisher-families during leaner winter months when harsh weather frequently rolls in off the Atlantic Ocean forcing small fishing boats to tie up and wait it out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9q6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver time, Barnes' Irish Wild Smoked Salmon drew acclaim by chefs and caught the eye of food award judges. In 2006, it was selected as Supreme Champion at the Great Taste Awards from more than 6,000 entrants; and in 2013, renowned Irish chef Richard Corrigan praised it in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Ftelegraph-magazine\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDaily Telegraph Magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"the best food present anyone had ever given him\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESalt, smoke and time are the only ingredients Barnes uses to transform the wild salmon into a much-desired food. It's meltingly butter-soft in the mouth, lightly licked with beech smoke and sea salt. Glossy with hues of pale coral and barely-there marbling are hallmarks of true wild salmon. It lacks a pungent fishiness; the delicate, floral aroma belies an elegant and gently lingering flavour. It's best eaten on well-buttered brown soda bread with a strong cup of tea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's best eaten on well-buttered brown soda bread with a strong cup of tea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a perennial favourite artisan product beloved by epicureans, yet the dwindling numbers of salmon under Barnes' hands mean her Irish Wild Smoked Salmon becomes rarer with every passing year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the only fish whose lifecycle demands a transition from salt to fresh water, over-fishing at sea coupled with poor environmental land management practices polluting inland waterways, have wreaked untold damage to both habitats. Decimation of terminal moraine gravel beds, which were formed in the last ice age and are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fisheriesireland.ie\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fprotection\u002Fenvironmental-protection\u002Fgravel-removal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eessential to the spawning habits of salmon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is another factor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Ireland, a total ban on sea fishing of wild salmon was imposed in 2007, restricting fishing to rivers where salmon return to spawn. However, between 2007 and 2017, Barnes didn't want to take fish from the often-polluted Irish rivers and the corrupted quality of the salmon there. Instead, Barnes sourced her salmon from Usan Fisheries in the town of East Montrose in her native Scotland, for 10 years until that fishery closed, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9qg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn that time, regulation of Irish rivers had improved, but there was still no salmon quota in rivers local to her in Skibbereen, County Cork. One hundred kilometres east of her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.woodcocksmokery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWoodcock Smokery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where the mighty Blackwater River divides County Cork and County Waterford on the south-east coast, became Barnes's new salmon hunting ground. Using draught and snap nets, Walsh and Uniacke fish their quota of salmon – which is just 225 this year – and every fish goes to Barnes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm very protective of them,\" she said of Walsh and Uniacke, but also of the fish they net for her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe commercial salmon fishery opens from mid-May. Weeks before, Barnes feels an intuitive call to the salmon – a trigger for her own migration from the smokery to the Blackwater. \"I get a frisson. I can smell 'em; they're coming,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I get a frisson. I can smell 'em; they're coming","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery salmon that arrives to Barnes' door is precious. \"I touch every single fish. It's a very physical relationship we have. I have a reverence for them, and I treat these beautiful creatures with the greatest of respect when they're under my hands.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBarnes lays sides of salmon into a dry salt cure, and then massages each piece. There's a practical reason for this: to work out any last remaining traces of blood that could spoil the fish. But the motions afford an ethereal moment of connection, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I get stories of where the salmon has been and what he's seen; and I know that sounds weird, but I do revere them as a fellow species. I'm observing it and I think, you've had such a long journey but I'm giving you respect, and I hope I'm doing justice to you having given up your life for me to live.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBarnes is as rare as the salmon itself; her craft is now utterly wedded to the existence of wild Irish salmon. When asked what's more important – the salmon or her craft – her response is unequivocal. \"Oh, the salmon – every time,\" she said. \"We lose our souls if we lose the salmon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBarnes' commitment to only work with wild fish has drawbacks, such as never knowing how much fish will arrive. If she were to work with farmed salmon, she could order it up like people order ribs of beef or legs of lamb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9q8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I did work with farmed fish once, when we had very little money,\" Barnes said. \"I did the same process as with wild fish, but it was no good… the fat content is too high and it's not the same as the wild fish. In the wild, look at how many thousands of kilometres those creatures swim – that's a lean, mean machine. In salmon farming, this exquisitely beautiful, precious, extraordinary creature is stuck in a cage, pumped with chemicals, dyes and all sorts of nasty things to try and make food for humans – and they call that sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite there being left with little alternative, Barnes feels she has a right to work with rare wild salmon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I started, I said I would \u003Cem\u003Eonly\u003C\u002Fem\u003E work with wild fish, and that automatically precluded me from chasing bigger contracts with bigger retailers because I couldn't guarantee quantities regularly. So, I learned to cut my cloth. Because I'm small, I'm sustaining myself as an individual, so I think what I am doing is a sustainable practice… I'm just able to feed myself, keep a roof over my head, run the car.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Barnes would happily never work with wild salmon again if it meant preserving wild stocks and conserving the fishery for generations to come, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.woodcocksmokery.com\u002Fthe-keep\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKeep\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is her insurance policy. Established in 2020, this learning centre for wild fish, particularly salmon, is open to anyone and everyone. It doesn't matter if you fillet fish once a month at home, are a chef, activist or educator, the Keep is for anyone wanting to tap into Barnes' lifetime's worth of knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9qb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That keeps the craft alive. The skills are not entirely ancient, but they are on the same page. I must pass the knowledge on – what else am I going to do with it?\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis desire to share knowledge and skill resonates with others who tirelessly campaign for more and better understanding of the interconnectedness of food systems. Darina Allen, co-founder of the world-famous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ballymaloe.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBallymaloe Cookery School\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in East Cork, author and slow-food advocate, said: \"Sally is a force of nature, passionate, knowledgeable. We so need artisans like her to continue to educate us on the plight of wild Atlantic salmon and to advocate for a more enlightened way forward to protect the species from possible extinction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce a year in July, Barnes hosts a celebratory \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.woodcocksmokery.com\u002Fwild-atlantic-salmon-feast-1\u002Fwild-atlantic-salmon-celebration-ticket?\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esalmon dinner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The salmon, a marine keystone species, is the topic of conversation, the dinner companion and the meal itself. Salmon comes smoked, of course, but it's the salmon steaks boiled in seawater with floury new potatoes and lakes of butter – the old Irish way – that stirs memories of childhood and meals shared with loved ones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the meal with her guests, Barnes honours the salmon but doesn't shy away describing the perils of overfishing, aquaculture, environmental mismanagement and elitist attitudes to fishing rights, all ingredients of catastrophe for the last of the wild Irish salmon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've done awful things,\" she said. \"I must talk about it because it's not being addressed anywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9s8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd that's exactly what she's doing. Recently, Barnes spoke with BBC journalist and broadcaster Dan Saladino, who included her story in his award-winning 2021 book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fus.macmillan.com\u002Fbooks\u002F9780374605322\u002Featingtoextinction\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEating to Extinction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that profiles foods and food culture under threat around the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Saladino, her knowledge aptly demonstrated there was more to the story of humans and food than just relentless destruction of land, crop variety and culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is why she told me she feels like a wild salmon herself, a creature swimming against the tide","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is what's Sally's work shows us, her knowledge and skills are the legacy of thousands of years of humans solving problems and perfecting processes. These are being lost at frightening speed, but because of Sally's determination to hold onto this knowledge and her refusal to compromise, she has become the last person in Ireland to exclusively smoke wild fish. This is why she told me she feels like a wild salmon herself, a creature swimming against the tide.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the wild Irish salmon returns to the freshwater of the Blackwater, it's the culmination of a 3,000km journey to the exact same spot where its life began. As it leaves the salty waters of the ocean, it begins a complete metamorphosis: a physical and biological transformation. With eggs laid and milt deposited, a few will survive to return to the ocean where they will feed, fatten and prepare to make the journey again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They're mesmerising, and there's so much about them we don't know,\" Barnes said of this magnificent and mysterious king of fish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chp9qd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWild Irish Smoked Salmon and Chicory Salad (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Caitlin Ruth\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECaitlin Ruth was head chef of the former Deasy's Seafood Restaurant in the small fishing village of Ring in West Cork for 16 years. A locavore and supporter of small artisan producers, Ruth has long championed Barnes as a skilful artisan, regularly featuring her smoked fish on her restaurant menus and is now working with her on her new venture, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcaitlinruthfood\u002F\"\u003ECaitlin Ruth Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This recipe is an original creation for BBC World's Table and is a joint celebration of Ruth's respect for Barnes' craft and love of bitter vegetables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E200g Woodcock Smokery Wild Irish Smoked Salmon (50g per serving, thinly sliced)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 large white chicory (1 for slaw, 1 griddled)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EZest of 1 medium orange\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E120ml of freshly squeezed orange juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp coriander seed, toasted and ground\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp Dijon mustard\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E90ml good quality extra virgin olive oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EJuice of ½ lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 heaped tbsp local ricotta\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EPepper, 2 large pinches; salt to taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreheat a griddle pan to a high heat. Trim the base off one chicory, quarter lengthwise, brush spears with olive oil and lightly salt. Place chicory spears flat side down on griddle until dark char marks appear. Flip chicory over and repeat on the other flat side. Turn down heat and let chicory grill until cooked through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPut orange zest and juice into a bowl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToast coriander seed, grind in a pestle and mortar. Add to orange juice and zest, along with Dijon mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Whisk to combine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake the other chicory, trim base and cut in half lengthwise. Use a knife to finely shred both halves. Place in a clean bowl and toss with half the orange and coriander dressing. Set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn a plate, spread a generous amount of ricotta and top with slices of Wild Irish Smoked Salmon. Pile chicory slaw alongside and add spear of charred chicory. Dress with reserved orange and coriander dressing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOptional garnish: fry scraps of smoked salmon in butter for 30 seconds. Tumble over salad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-30T10:08:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The last of Ireland's rare wild salmon","headlineShort":"What happened to wild salmon?","image":["p0chp9qn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5261949","longitude":"-9.1995344","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0chp9qn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Sally Ferns Barnes' wild smoked salmon is beloved by epicureans, yet the dwindling numbers of the fish in Irish rivers mean it becomes rarer with every passing year.","summaryShort":"There are fewer and fewer with every passing year","tag":["tag\u002Ffood"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-29T22:10:55.94651Z","entity":"article","guid":"96b65ab0-6a1a-429c-aa0f-bb741fec05bc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-27T13:44:03.339513Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks","_id":"62e701f243d9f44500213c4e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke"],"bodyIntro":"One of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art was unearthed on Tipperary's Derrynaflan Island by a man and his son using metal detectors.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Go up there and dip your finger in the holy water – it's always full,\" insisted the farmer on the way to Derrynaflan Island. I was lucky to bump into him as there was no sign to direct me along a stony track to this sacred spot, mostly known only to locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDerrynaflan is not a typical island. This tiny 44-acre, privately owned mound, in Ireland's biggest inland county, isn't surrounded by an ocean or a lake. Unusually, it pops from the Bog of Lurgoe in Tipperary's vast brown swampy peatlands like a vibrant green mirage. Nevertheless, by dictionary standards, an island it categorically is.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd come to this remote bogland to see where Ireland's earliest hermetic monks found solitude from the 6th Century. While most of Europe was reeling in the post-Roman disarray of the Dark Ages, the land of saints and scholars (as Ireland widely became known) bucked the trend by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.ie\u002Fen-ie\u002Fcollections-research\u002Firish-antiquities-division-collections\u002Fcollections-list-(1)\u002Fearly-medieval\"\u003Eentering a remarkable golden age of scholasticism and artistic achievement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, characterised by monastic settlements like Derrynaflan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut what's especially interesting about Derrynaflan is the priceless buried treasure likely left here by the monks. Discovered just a few decades ago, it changed Irish law and turned out to be one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art.\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECareful not to disturb the munching bullocks, I gently climbed a short 200m to the ethereal ruins that still crown the island today. At the top, I wandered into what was left of a 12th-Century abbey that replaced an earlier monastery. A soft apricot evening glow poured through pane-less windows on to a long-departed altar. Two stumpy stone vessels were all that remained. One – a medieval \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ouririshheritage.org\u002Fcontent\u002Farchive\u002Ftopics\u002Fmiscellaneous\u002Fbullaun-stones\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebullaun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (bowl) stone – was indeed hollowed enough to collect the farmer's promised \"holy\" (rain) water. I agnostically blessed myself as instructed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn information sign at the abbey revealed there's much more to Derrynaflan than first meets the ecclesiastical eye. Controversially, the little-known mystical landmass shot to international archaeology fame in 1980 when a father and son from the town of Clonmel, about 25km away, unearthed an intricately decorated cup and plate using hobby metal detectors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cpv5wq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstor.org\u002Fstable\u002F2865955\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe \"cup\" was, in fact, a 9th-Century chalice. And the \"plate\", an 8th-Century paten used for holding the bread during the eucharist of Ireland's medieval church, confirmed Nessa O'Connor, curator and archaeologist at the National Museum of Ireland. \"They are elite objects with a very, very high standard of craftmanship created at the highpoint in the early Irish church,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe silver chalice and paten are decorated with outstanding examples of ancient Celtic goldsmithing, O'Connor explained. Fine interlaced gold-wire work called \"filigree\", illustrated on postage stamp-sized intricate art scenes around the edge of the paten, is in a style distinctive to Ireland. The paten is also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstor.org\u002Fstable\u002F2865955\"\u003Ethe only example of its type to survive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from early medieval Western Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The combination of the objects is unique… it's a complete altar set","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA wine strainer and stand (for the paten) completed a priceless hoard of Insular Art (shared art style in Ireland and Britain around 600 to 900 CE, heavily influenced by the expansion of the Irish monastic tradition). \"The combination of the objects is unique… it's a complete altar set,\" O'Connor said, explaining that burying valuables was common during Viking raids and the dynastic turmoil of the 10th to 12th Centuries. \"It looks like it was deposited deliberately [by the monks] at a time of high risk.\" Archaeologists have since meticulously surveyed the island and nothing else was found, she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cpv611"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E Today, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.ie\u002Fen-IE\u002FCollections-Research\u002FCollection\u002FThe-Treasury\u002FArtefact\u002FDerrynaflan-Silver-Paten\u002F4dfbee87-288e-40cc-b575-967733820c70\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDerrynaflan Hoard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E can be admired at the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin, along with other exceptional finds from the Insular Art period, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.ie\u002Fen-IE\u002FCollections-Research\u002FCollection\u002FThe-Treasury\u002FArtefact\u002FThe-Ardagh-Chalice\u002Fac53e68e-76a4-4560-a624-c87647c57a00\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArdagh Chalice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, found in 1868 by a young man digging up potatoes near Ardagh, County Limerick. O'Connor noted that its artistry and style  is comparable to the elaborately illustrated \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tcd.ie\u002Fvisitors\u002Fbook-of-kells\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBook of Kells\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is \"Ireland's greatest cultural treasure\", according to Trinity College Dublin, where it is on display.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe natural conditions of boglands have proved to be freakishly good at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.howstuffworks.com\u002Fenvironmental\u002Fearth\u002Farchaeology\u002Fmust-farm-archaeology-bronze-age-bog-artifacts.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epreserving ancient artefacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The low temperature, lack of oxygen and high acidity of the soil mean even organic matter can survive for thousands of years. A 3,000-year-old keg of butter was pulled out of an Irish peat bog. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-a-2000-year-old-unsolved-mystery\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBodies more than 2,000 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have been found with hair and nails intact. However, before any get-rich-quick treasure-hunting thoughts rush in, Ireland has among the most stringent laws in Europe around metal detecting and excavation – and it was the Derrynaflan treasure discovery that tightened them, explained Sharon Greene, archaeologist and editor of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Farchaeologyireland.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchaeology Magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It means there isn't a legal hobbyist treasure-hunting scene in Ireland the way there is in other countries","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA seven-year legal battle between the Derrynaflan detectorists, the landowner and the government, which went all the way to the Supreme Court, eventually determined that the treasure hoard belonged to the state. \"It means there isn't a legal hobbyist treasure-hunting scene in Ireland the way there is in other countries,\" Greene explained. In the UK, specialist tour operators arrange treasure-hunting trips. \"This is never going to happen in Ireland,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wrangling over ownership and monetary value of the Derrynaflan treasure resulted in practically a blanket \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.ie\u002Fen-IE\u002FCollections-Research\u002FThe-Law-on-Metal-Detecting-in-Ireland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emetal-detecting ban in Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Penalties for both unlicensed searching and digging are harsh. And any archaeological objects found by accident (ploughing for example) automatically belong to the state. However, Greene continued, nowadays, archaeological interest is less about personal financial gain and more about pride of place and finding that special connection with your past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cpv62d"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn this spirit, I'd ambled to Derrynaflan following a newly waymarked 9km loop from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.horseandjockeyhotel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHorse and Jockey Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the tiny townland of the same name. The first 2km was on twisty backroads, where I met with one car, which, judging from its speed, wasn't expecting to meet me. But soon enough, I crossed a bridge onto new stony pathways created by a group of passionate locals during the pandemic to make the perilous boglands more accessible. The island, which can be reached via an informal path, 200m or so off the main route, came into view after a couple of more kilometres.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe 9km route, which passes close to Derrynaflan island, isn't clearly signposted yet. Landowner permission is needed to visit the island, so it's best to go with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsiuleile.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea local walking group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or enquire at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.horseandjockeyhotel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHorse and Jockey Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDerrynaflan Island is also part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abartaheritage.ie\u002Fderrynaflan-trail-audio-guide\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Derrynaflan Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a self-guided driving tour that explores the sacred places of Tipperary's Slieveardagh Hills. The accompanying audio guide tells stories of saints, scholars, sinners, Norman warlords, Viking battles and powerful nobles through heritage sites spanning 15 centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Getting there","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter decades of industrial peat-cutting to fuel Ireland's stoves, the bog was no longer nature's healthy blanket of saturated \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildlifetrusts.org\u002Fwildlife-explorer\u002Fmosses-and-liverworts\u002Fsphagnum-moss\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espongy moss\u003C\u002Fa\u003E it once was. But, several years since harvesting ended (due to green policies), it was encouraging to see flora gaining confidence over a largely drab landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nature will take it back very quickly,\" said Eoin O’Connell, an agricultural science and biology teacher at a nearby secondary school whom I met en route. O'Connell often walks to Derrynaflan from his family farm in Lurgoe, a townland several kilometres away that the route passes through on the way back to the Horse and Jockey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrasses, heather and rows of gorse – a thorny shrub with bright yellow, vanilla-scented flowers – had taken root. Fingers of water, which will one day expand to become a flood plain, beckoned with soft reflections. \"Slowly it will go from being a carbon releaser to a carbon sponge,\" O'Connell said. Wetland birds, now gathering in bigger numbers, pierced an eerie silence. \"I've heard a cuckoo, he added. \"That's rare.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELiam Fleming, another local who is interested in finding hidden heritage, started Tipperary community walking group \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsiuleile.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESiul Eile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (meaning \"another walk\") with a few people in 2016. It has since grown to 5,000 participants. Visitors can join regular walks (including the Derrynaflan Loop) free of charge. Fleming, who recently received a county honour for his sustainable social enterprise, said, \"We take pride in looking after monuments and trails, but we also bring people together and share stories with each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cpv63h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Irish countryside has one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.1080\u002F00750777909555749?journalCode=rigy20\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edensest concentrations of surviving archaeological monuments in Western Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"There are other bog islands and ancient monastic sites peppered all over the place,\" said Greene, who believes heritage sites should be accessible to everybody. While the vast majority of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaps.archaeology.ie\u002FHistoricEnvironment\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIreland's 150,000 or so recorded archaeological monuments\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are on private land (needing permission from the landowner to visit), communities are successfully accessing their local ancient sites, such as megalithic tombs, monasteries, castles, stone circles and battlefields, through the Heritage Council's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heritagecouncil.ie\u002Fprojects\u002Fadopt-a-monument\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdopt a Monument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors will never be far from a community's special pride of place that links it to the past. Since many of these hidden nuggets are often beyond even Google's search prowess, Greene and Fleming both recommend relying on the more traditional way of \"enquiring locally\" about ancient sites of interest. This means \"asking what the go is\" at a hotel, a shop or a pub in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Killenaule, a small town about 9km from Derrynaflan, where you can still get your groceries and a pint of draught Guinness in the same store, people will happily tell you everything you need to know about their beloved treasure island and how you can get there. Expect the lowdown to be wrapped in legendary banter and generations of folklore. But that's another cherished story for locals to tell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-01T10:25:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's priceless treasure hidden by monks","headlineShort":"A priceless treasure hidden by monks","image":["p0cpv5tg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.5973","longitude":"-7.7338","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cpv5tg"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220206-a-discovery-of-northern-irelands-lost-holy-relic","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art was unearthed on Tipperary's Derrynaflan Island by a man and his son using metal detectors.","summaryShort":"It was in exquisite condition due to the preservation powers of boglands","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fhiking"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-31T22:27:44.682202Z","entity":"article","guid":"d40c3ff4-bbfe-4d16-bb91-d673693eaaa8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-01T00:52:19.132403Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","_id":"62df81fa43d9f42c877a8009","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"\"The city of 100 neighbourhoods\" has long been overlooked for the same reasons that make it so great: it's not like Paris, Lyon or Aix.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt took the TGV train no time to thrust its way out of Paris and into a realm of swelling wheat fields peppered by quaint farmhouses – the quintessential northern French terrain I had neglected since my semester on the Erasmus study abroad programme almost 20 years ago. Although I had visited in the interim, my years have been largely lost in Asia, penning guidebooks 9,600km east of the Champs Élysées.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut nostalgia haunted me through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-31833753\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench Concession in Shanghai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, down Hanoi's café-lined boulevards and even while queuing for croissants in the artisan bakeries of Hong Kong. I hankered to pick up where I'd left off, so when a French friend I'd known in Guangzhou, China, invited me to visit, the excuse to explore France's \"second-city\" belatedly fell in my lap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Come to Marseille. It's not like other bourgeois French cities. It's cool and the weather is hot,\" Pierre Picard said on the phone, referencing both its hip urban character and the 300 days of sunshine that bless the city each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the train from Paris chased the southern horizon, I thought about Marseille, which, despite giving its name to the rebel-rousing national anthem \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20151117-why-la-marseillaise-is-the-only-song-that-matters-right-now\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Marseillaise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has a reputation of being distinct from the rest of the country. It's a metropolis on the margins both geographically and culturally, its denizens composed of waves of migrants who arrived over two-and-half-millennia of recorded history, making it not just France's oldest city but its most multicultural one as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe story begins with the Greeks who, sailing from Asia Minor, recognised the strategic deep-water port and settled in what is now Le Panier overlooking the Vieux Port. The Greeks traded with the Gauls, introducing grapes and olives to the region, unwittingly laying the foundation for Provençal cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde in Marseille","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESix centuries as an independent Greek city ended when the armies of Caesar came crashing in, claiming the city for Rome in 49BC and initiating 500 years of Gallo-Roman culture. Next came the Visigoths, who invaded the city in the 5th Century; the Arabs sacked it in the ninth. Its urban population collapsed during the Great Plague of 1720 to 1721 – commemorated in a temporary exhibition at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.musee-histoire-marseille-voie-historique.fr\u002Fen\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\"\u003EMarseille History Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when I visited, with clear references to the current coronavirus pandemic. But Marseille persisted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen France's ambitions turned global, particularly after 1830 and the close of the Napoleonic wars, the southern port emerged as the Empire's chief nexus point, and Marseille enjoyed a golden age as the \"Gate of Empire\": France's colonial officers, her navies and fortune-seekers departed from the Vieux Port, first to North African and American colonies, and, after the completion of the Suez Canal in 1859, to Asia as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210613-why-the-french-rarely-say-i-love-you\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy it's hard to find love in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENapoleon's gravity-defying 325km road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this was no one-way road. Everything made landfall in Marseille: people and produce, culture and contraband. This legacy was conspicuous when I walked along the Cours Belsunce, a broad boulevard named after Bishop Henri François Xavier de Belsunce de Castelmoron, who cared for the sick during the Great Plague. Here, the smell of Arab and Turkish cuisine wafted through the air with the comforting richness of home cooking; trams made an occasional \"dang dang\" as they passed; and trackside street vendors hawked African wood carvings, colourful headscarves and Olympique de Marseille football shirts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are Chinese and Vietnamese communities in Marseille, Corsicans, Comorians and Armenians. But in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.journals.uchicago.edu\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1086\u002F716819\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWicked City: The Many Cultures of Marseille\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nicholas Hewitt writes of an unusually \"strong affinity\" with Algiers, a city \"emotionally\" closer than Paris, observing that, \"the colonisation of Algeria in 1830, which supplemented Marseille's already intimate relations with its partners, and rivals, along the northern and eastern littorals of the Mediterranean with a powerful North African dimension.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I began to get a sense of why Marseille is called \"the city of 100 neighbourhoods\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlmost 200 years on, the conception of Marseille as a North African city remains part of its popular image in France. As I walked the laundry-draped backstreets, first impressions endorsed the sentiment that the Maghrebi stamp is pronounced. At the mouth of a lane, youths congregated around speakers blasting Arabic and French rap that echoed between bakeries vending flatbreads. Men in flat caps sipped mint tea from thimble-like glasses. A block downhill, women in sublimely colourful dresses of the Sahel sold almonds from Morocco and avocados from the Ivory Coast, humming along to the latest hits from Bamako, Mali's capital. And I began to get a sense of why Marseille is called \"the city of 100 neighbourhoods\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man sitting on step in front of street art","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fbeaurivagecafe13\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWith the arrival of the railway in 1873, the journey from Paris took more than 19 hours, longer than the time it took to sail to Algiers. Now, it is just a three-hour journey, but still a world apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArriving at the Marseille-Saint-Charles station, visitors are treated to a view from its lavish, elevated forecourt that feels strikingly far-flung. Casting my eyes down an ornate 1920s staircase, my gaze followed the Boulevard d'Athènes, a sloping street where orange-tiled rooves overhang fawn stone walls. The route dipped as it met with the main thoroughfare, Rue Cannebière, before rising crescendo-like to the Notre-Dame de la Garde, a hilltop basilica crowned by a golden Virgin – the city's highest point, shining like a holy lighthouse out to sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENotwithstanding the decline in sea freight and other industries, the Vieux Port remains the city's focus, its waters dotted with yachts bobbing like swans on a lake. All roads seem to lead there, and anyone attempting to explore the city on foot inevitably ends up in one of the waterfront brassieres. In my case, it was the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fbeaurivagecafe13\u002F\"\u003EBeau Rivage Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where, over late-afternoon \u003Cem\u003Epastis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, I attempted to absorb the scene: the castle-like, 1,500-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marseille-tourisme.com\u002Fen\u002Fdiscover-marseille\u002Fculture-heritage\u002Fthe-abbey-of-saint-victor\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbbaye St-Victor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Marseille's oldest church; and the swanky \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarseille.intercontinental.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Dieu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that, during the plague, served as a \u003Cem\u003Elazaretto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an isolation hospital for sailors to quarantine in. Now the InterContinental Hotel Marseille, guests enjoy a five-star spectacle over the water, which to my mind rivals the great harbours of the world, Hong Kong or Sydney, and one sorely overlooked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the detractors, Marseille doesn't fulfil their \"Parisian\" vision of France in the ways that regal Lyon, its closest rival to second-city status, does; or by fans of neighbouring Aix-en-Provence, whose chic, conservative denizens have helped it earn \"the 21st arrondissement of Paris\" moniker.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Colourful house exteriors along alleyway, Marseille","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETo some, Marseille is a city of vice, an image traded by authors like Jean-Claude Izzo in novels like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.allenandunwin.com\u002Fbrowse\u002Fbooks\u002Ffiction\u002FTotal-Chaos-Jean-Claude-Izzo-9781787702073\"\u003ETotal Chaos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and recurrent in film and television as a crime-subgenre dubbed \"Marseille Noir\". Most of these disparaging opinions are outmoded, belonging to an economic slump in the late 20th Century that was captured in celluloid in the Marseille Noir classic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0073018\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench Connection II\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut the grubby, traffic-flanked Vieux Port of 1975 has little in common with the vibrant scene that confronted me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It wasn't until the city was made the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fenvironment\u002Feuropeangreencapital\u002F2013-capital-of-culture-marseille\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Capital of Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2013 that they really cleaned up the Vieux Port,\" explained Marie Picard, Pierre's sister. \"Now we have somewhere to enjoy on foot.\" The year-long EU designation not only gave Marseille the chance to promote its uniquely rich Mediterranean culture, but also prompted authorities to get the old port in order. The quay and surrounding commercial streets were duly pedestrianised and orientated to tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnderlining Marseille's many civic improvements, which include a new tramway completed in 2007, are the Parisians who, like Pierre and Marie, have dared break with their tribe to move south, despite a historical rivalry that goes back centuries and still plays out in the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymail.co.uk\u002Fsport\u002Ffootball\u002Farticle-5422989\u002FPSG-v-Marseille-did-rivalry-fierce.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Classique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" whenever Paris Saint-Germain and Olympique de Marseille meet on the pitch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I moved from Paris 10 years ago,\" said Marie, citing such obvious draws as affordable rent and sunshine as the principal reasons for her move, as well as the less obvious lure of work. \"I'm a digital content producer. I was worried about leaving Paris but the TGV means it's only three hours away if I need to go back for a meeting.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo escape the heat, I headed to the Plage des Catalans. Whizzing on an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intelligenttransport.com\u002Ftransport-news\u002F90070\u002Fmarseille-awards-contracts-to-three-e-scooter-operators\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ee-scooter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I navigated the imposing Fort St-Nicolas on the southside of the Vieux Port. In the late-afternoon sun, the beach was drenched in an otherworldly amber hue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Crowds of holiday makers on coast, Marseille, France","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI walked past a group playing volleyball, a DJ spun records, locals sunbathed and gossiped and the city's \u003Cem\u003Ebon enfant \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– \"good natured\" – vibe was tangible. It was here I belatedly noticed Marseille's \"Frenchness\", so distracting had the city's cosmopolitan charms been. It reminded me of Shanghai, Liverpool or New York, those great port cities whose allegiance is ever caught between the state and the sea. But on that warm summer's day, amidst the sun worshippers and seaside salsa dances, those allegiances felt reconciled.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI considered one of Marie's lunchtime quips: \"If you come to France and you don't come to Marseille you won't see France.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe had a point: the city is just another expression of a country more diverse and culturally intricate than it often likes to admit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-09T10:58:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Marseille: France's 'good natured' city","headlineShort":"A French city that doesn't feel French","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.296398","longitude":"5.370000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"\"The city of 100 neighbourhoods\" has long been overlooked for the same reasons that make it so great: it's not like Paris, Lyon or Aix.","summaryShort":"What makes France's \"second city\" so distinct?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-08T21:59:20.945868Z","entity":"article","guid":"9fd5f4da-ac5c-44e7-808a-522ce6ce4039","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:33.141883Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","_id":"62df800d43d9f46d900554be","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFrom the sublime viewpoints above \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sansebastianturismoa.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESan Sebastián\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Basque Country, a hiker can see one of the world's oldest, most romantic, most biblical of paths. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190411-the-camino-de-santiagos-ancient-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamino de Santiago pilgrimage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E passes this way, and the Homerian traverse to Saint James' tomb in the far western corner of northern Spain is well-trodden, proselytising many and capturing minds for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEach year, long-distance hikers and pilgrims come here in their hundreds of thousands, but I was not one of them. Instead of the cracked valleys winding towards churches, my destination was somewhere else entirely. A strange, uninhabited place called Pheasant Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELooking to understand Spain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBasque Country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E better, I accidentally stumbled upon the two-acre sliver of land while browsing through illustrated maps of the Western Pyrenees. Sheltered in the borderlands between \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hendaye-tourisme.fr\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHendaye, France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002Ftowns\u002Firun\u002Faa30-12375\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrun, Spain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the Bidasoa river flowing to the Bay of Biscay, the perplexing island is presided over by each nation for six months in turn and is a historical record of the rivalry between the countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBorder irregularities are found throughout Europe – and the world – but a 200m-long island that swaps countries biannually is unfathomably odd. And few, curiously, know much about Pheasant Island at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91kl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI learnt this much before I arrived to see the mysterious island for myself this spring. I was in the company of P\u003Cstrong\u003Eí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Ea Alkain Sorondo, an archaeologist who now leads \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bidatour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewalking tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the region, and, like most people in this part of Spain, she feels a duty to keep the histories of the Basque Country alive. No matter how unusual they might be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"I love telling the story of our heritage,\" Sorondo told me, as we strolled along the French-Spanish border east of San Sebastián, and, in a way, back in time. Behind us was a collection of industrial lots, apartments and tapas-like \u003Cem\u003Epinxtos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E bars, but in front of us were archaeological Roman remains of an ancient bridge and the bygone island itself. \"There is medieval history hidden all along this riverbank, but most people walk by here without knowing any of it. That's what I'm trying to change.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery. It is almost a ghost island","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen we reached our destination, a riverside park facing the isle, we were greeted by a sight like few others. Pheasant Island, browed with trees and elliptical in shape, lies just 10m from the Spanish side of the river and 20m from the French. It's of such historical importance that it's only rarely opened to visitors. At the centre was an enormous, inscribed monolith, shaped like a cenotaph, that gave a sense of the weight of centuries of history to the place. Tomb-like and grandstanding, it commemorates the meeting where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FPeace-of-the-Pyrenees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreaty of the Pyrenees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was negotiated in 1659.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery,\" Sorondo told me. \"It is almost a ghost island.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThroughout history, there has been a succession of different monikers for Pheasant Island. For starters, today's name – Isla de los Faisanes in Spanish, Faisai Uhartea in Basque, Île des Faisans in French – is a mistake. \"There are no pheasants on Pheasant Island,\" complained French novelist Victor Hugo when he visited in 1843. In fact, there are only green crested mallards and migratory birds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91j9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Roman times, the island was known as \"Pausoa\", the Basque word for passage or step. Then the French translated this as \"Paysans\", meaning peasant, before transposing it as \"Faisans\", for pheasant. Over time, the name Île des Faisans stuck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe humble island finally came into prominence in 1648, following a ceasefire at the end of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0001fv2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThirty Years' War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E between France and Spain, when it was chosen as a neutral space to demarcate the new borderlands. In fact, 24 summits took place, with military escorts on standby should talks breakdown. Eleven years later, the Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord was struck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo honour the occasion, a royal wedding was mooted, and, in 1660, French King Louis XIV married the daughter of King Philip IV, Maria Theresa of Spain, on the spot of the declaration. Wooden bridges were built to ease passage, royal parties arrived in state barges and carriages, and tapestries and paintings were commissioned. Diego Velázquez, court painter to Philip and whose magnum opus remains \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museodelprado.es\u002Fen\u002Fthe-collection\u002Fart-work\u002Flas-meninas\u002F9fdc7800-9ade-48b0-ab8b-edee94ea877f\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELas Meninas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a portrait of Margaret Theresa with her maids of honour) was put in charge of arranging much of the festivities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESo symbolic was Pheasant Island as a metaphor of peace, in fact, that it was decided both countries would have joint custody of the territory. Spain would hold stewardship from 1 February to 31 July each year, while Pheasant Island would become an official part of France for the other six months. In that moment, the world's smallest condominium was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBy definition, condominiums are places determined by the presence of at least more than one sovereign state. The sense is derived from Latin, with \"com\" implying \"together\" and \"dominium\" meaning \"right of ownership\". And over the centuries, numerous countries have become embroiled in geographic tug o' wars over condominiums, with governments spending decades happily arguing the finer points of who owns what and why. Most aren't centres of empire, but rather experimental, geopolitical addendums.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAt least for now, there are eight in the world, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bodensee.eu\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Constance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the tridominium between Austria, Germany and Switzerland; the Brčko District shared by Bosnia and Herzegovina; and the disputed territory of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vladars.net\u002Feng\u002FPages\u002Fdefault.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERepublika Srpska\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Then there is the Joint Regime Area, a shared maritime zone between Colombia and Jamaica; and the Abyei Area contested by South Sudan and Sudan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother is the Moselle river and its tributaries the Sauer and the Our – a riverine condominium shared between Germany and Luxembourg; while the Gulf of Fonseca is a tripartite condominium portioned up by Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Antarctica is the last but also the largest and most momentous, a theoretical continental condominium, governed by the 29 signatories of the Antarctic Treaty that have consulting status.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn the day of my visit to Pheasant Island, the territory was in the hands of the Spanish. A group of kayakers was exploring its nooks from the water, and, on land, only one passer-by stopped to take photographs. Besides administering the gardening, maintaining the boat landing site, discussing fishing rights and monitoring the water quality, there isn't much for the Spanish to do on a month-to-month basis. Visitors  are only allowed onto the island on rare occasions: either on one of the bi-annual handover days, when the island is abuzz with activity during the official ceremony, with flags, delegates, diplomats and plenty of formal pomp; or as part of ad-hoc, occasional heritage tours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne alarming development reverberating around the border communities, however, is the number of immigrants trying to illegally cross the river from Spain into France. The day before I arrived, a foreign national had drowned while attempting to swim across and, as Sorondo and I talked history and Basque politics, a police boat sifted through the waters looking for the body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECurrent figures from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feuskalherriaharreraherria.info\u002Fcas\u002Fquienes.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrungo Harrera Sarea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Irun's NGO, estimates that up to 30 migrants arrive every day seeking safe passage north into France. As a tidal channel, the Bidasoa has an abrupt 3-4m height differential, with the river flowing up and downstream from the official border on the National Road bridge like a full-frontal attack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is still a place of new hope for so many,\" Sorondo said, \"but it is also a death trap.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith such sorrowful words lingering in the air, just one clinching thought played around in my head before I left. Pheasant Island may be an unremembered, historical footnote of an island. But in our ever-variegated, unpredictable world of border disagreements and land grabs, it is a symbol of peace and one that we should never forget.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-07T20:43:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Europe's island that swaps nationalities","headlineShort":"The isle that France and Spain share","image":["p0cj91l5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.3428","longitude":"-1.7655","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj91l5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","summaryShort":"This curious geographic transaction has been going on for more than 350 years","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-06T20:54:01.370635Z","entity":"article","guid":"7e646ff5-0f96-4445-96a8-432617556f6a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T13:06:28.057714Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe_spain_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","_id":"62df7f2143d9f45721362ea5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Showcasing eight towns and villages, the stunning road brings a different kind of sunshine to the French Riviera, when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the snow-capped peaks of the Maritime Alps faded into the distance behind me, I followed my guide \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaddypolomeni.com\u002Fen\u002Fbienvenue-english\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaddy Polomeni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E further along a corridor of golden mimosa blossoms as we hiked towards an abandoned quarry in the Massif de l'Esterel mountain range. Although it was the latter end of the flowering season, there was still an abundance of blooms along this trail, unlike many of the other mimosa circuits higher up in the peaks behind us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe correct term for each bud is \u003Cem\u003Eglomerulus,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E but \"pom-poms\", as Polomeni calls them, felt a more fitting name for the fluffy, featherlight balls that filled the late February air with the sweet aroma of marzipan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel like spring is already here,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese rocky ranges behind Mandelieu-La Napoule, the coastal town west of Cannes in southern France, are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest. For six years, Polomeni has been one of the few registered guides leading small groups along walking trails that criss-cross this dry Mediterranean landscape. Along the way, she's become a point of reference for travellers like me who are following \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froutedumimosa.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Route du Mimosa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 130km road trip that starts in Bormes-les-Mimosas, 35km west of Saint-Tropez, and finishes in the perfume-scented town of Grasse in the Cannes hinterland, an itinerary best travelled between January and March when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as wattle in its native south-eastern Australia, mimosa was introduced to the French Riviera by British aristocrats who flocked to its resort towns in search of winter sunshine. Making its first appearance around 1880, the \u003Cem\u003EAcacia dealbata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or silver wattle) they brought in their luggage quickly took to the acidic soils of the French region's mountainous western terrain. \"Having found the same growing conditions as back in Australia, the plant spread,\" horticulturist Julien Cavatore told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mimosa-cavatore.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPépinières Cavatore\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his family nursery in Bormes-les-Mimosas, stocks more than 180 species of the plant; it has been recognised as one of the country's finest collections by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ccvs-france.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConservatoire des Collections Végétales Spécialisées\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a French association modelled on Britain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.plantheritage.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlant Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the things I love most about mimosa is that it blooms during a period of the year when you don't get any other flowers,\" Cavatore said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Route du Mimosa was created in 2002 along existing secondary roads, and while I was surprised to find that it isn't obviously signposted, a brochure is available in local tourist offices (and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froutedumimosa.com\u002Finfos-pratiques\u002Fbrochure\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) that serves as a guide to the various waypoints and activities. Cavatore said that people often ask why there are not \"huge forests of mimosa\" as they head off from Bormes-les-Mimosas – in fact, for much of the early stages of the drive, the landscape is the dusty greens and winter browns typical of the season. As he explained, however, the route is more about a theme, a showcase of eight towns and villages that have each developed cultural ties to a plant that has become a symbol of winter on the French Riviera.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom shady Bormes-les-Mimosas, where French presidents have vacationed since Charles de Gaulle first visited in 1968, the route starts along the coastal D559, a two-lane road heavy with holidaymakers in search of clean air and sandy beaches in summer but which, at this time of the year, flows freely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBypassing Saint-Tropez for Sainte-Maxime (its low-key but charming neighbour across the bay), the D559 continues past pétanque courts and waterfront restaurants towards the popular resort town of Saint-Raphaël. The 30km stretch between Saint-Raphaël and Mandelieu-La Napoule, where majestic red ochre rocks tumble into the sparkling Mediterranean Sea below, is one to savour: known as the Corniche d'Or, the road mimics the twists and turns of the craggy coastline before opening out onto the Bay of Cannes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon\"\u003EThe return of France's lost lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city\"\u003EMarseille: France's 'good natured' city\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road\"\u003EThe Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMandelieu-La Napoule is the self-styled mimosa capital – since 1931 it has played host to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mandelieu.fr\u002Factualites-mandelieu\u002Fmanifestations-mandelieu_fete_du_mimosa.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Fête du Mimosa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 10-day programme of parades and street entertainment held each February. Although the 2022 event was cancelled due to the pandemic, the town is still the perfect stop for an exquisite mimosa-infused pause. In the waterfront neighbourhood of La Napoule, Mathieu Marchand, executive pastry chef at Riviera institution \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.relaischateaux.com\u002Fus\u002Ffrance\u002Foasis-alpes-maritimes-la-napoule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL'Oasis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, first drew inspiration from the colourful blooms surrounding his kitchen last year, creating a mimosa-flavoured macaron that became a menu mainstay during the 2021 flowering period.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis year, he's added a delicate cake to the seasonal selection. \"Starting with a cheesecake base, I've placed a caramelised peanut inside and finished with a white chocolate ganache,\" he said. Less than 2g of the distilled flower essence is used in each individual pastry, yet the bitter-almond and orange-blossom flavours of mimosa are distinct. \"Next year, another creation that shows the many possibilities of mimosa will be unveiled,\" he promised.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe array of artisanal products that highlight the plant's attributes as a culinary ingredient is steadily increasing. In Mandelieu-La Napoule's tourist office, a display of locally made mimosa products includes chocolates, honey and even a vodka-based liquor called Mimocello.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the profession of \u003Cem\u003Emimosistes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– or the people who cultivate mimosa – is at risk of disappearing. At the start of the 20th Century, there were 80 growers working out of Le Capitou, Mandelieu's oldest neighbourhood. In the 1920s, whole railroad cars of cut mimosa would leave Cannes and La Napoule for flower markets as far away as Moscow and London, the precious blooms placed protectively inside baskets woven from cane and willow, an entire artform in themselves. Today, only a handful of mimosistes remain, mostly growing the flowers in the land around the Massif du Tanneron, the mountain range between Mandelieu, Tanneron and Pégomas known as the 'Golden Triangle' of mimosa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a quiet cul-de-sac in Pégomas, a village dating from the 16th Century just inland from Mandelieu, I found Cécile Reynaud at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flacollinedesmimosas.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Colline des Mimosas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, her family's horticultural business. She was busy wrapping bouquets laden with freshly cut branches for a steady stream of passing customers. Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste\u003Cem\u003E:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E her grandmother first planted mimosa to sell to perfumeries in the 1930s. Today, their market is cut flowers, supplying more than 100,000 bouquets a year to a mix of individuals and professionals, as well as seasonal festivals. \"I'm so infused in mimosa that during the season I stop being able to smell it,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMimosistes like Reynaud are masters of their art, their ability to manipulate the plant developed over a lifetime of harvests. Nowhere is this more evident than in the \u003Cem\u003Eforcerie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a temperature-controlled room where branches of yet-to-open buds are \"forced\" into flowering in hot, humid conditions, for anywhere between six and 36 hours. The technique extends both the life of the cut flowers by up to 10 days and the growing season. The talent of the mimosiste is knowing exactly how long to leave the flowers in the \u003Cem\u003Eforcerie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – \"if we leave it too long, there is a point of no return and the flowers fade,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom Pégomas, I drove the short distance through residential neighbourhoods towards Grasse and the rose, iris and jasmine gardens that supply perfume houses like Chanel and Dior with their raw product. Much of the mimosa currently found in perfumery is synthetic, since its pom-poms are so lightweight that the quantity required to extract enough essence is considered too labour-intensive to use its true form. But there are hopeful signs this is changing: Reynaud was preparing for a visit the next day from a \"\u003Cem\u003Egrand nez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" – a perfumer recognised for their ability to compose scents. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now that Grasse's perfume-making techniques have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fthe-skills-related-to-perfume-in-pays-de-grasse-the-cultivation-of-perfume-plants-the-knowledge-and-processing-of-natural-raw-materials-and-the-art-of-perfume-composition-01207\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, there's an increased demand for the area's other flora,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShould that be the case, then Grasse's place as the final stop on this floral route is set to acquire an even greater significance. From start to finish, La Route du Mimosa can easily be covered in a day, but two days (the average time most people take, Polomeni told me) is better. Anything more is a bonus, because the real delights of this southern French road trip are found off the main roads and outside of the car – in the forests, greenhouses and kitchens where these tiny rays of winter sunshine have firmly taken root.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-7"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-19T20:16:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"France's 130km Mimosa Route","headlineShort":"A stunning drive in the French Riviera","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.5334394","longitude":"6.8829637","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Showcasing eight towns and villages, the stunning road brings a different kind of sunshine to the French Riviera, when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.","summaryShort":"The 130km road is a showcase of eight towns and villages","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-18T20:16:44.832388Z","entity":"article","guid":"67038bfd-6c32-4b35-83c9-83064120c595","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-19T13:59:23.461015Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens","_id":"62e30f0043d9f46d9838b906","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller"],"bodyIntro":"Carved out of the River Somme's marshy hinterland, the Hortillonnages is made up of 110km of slender canals that have led Amiens to be dubbed \"the Venice of the North\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe were drifting along a tracery of slender channels over which little wooden bridges arched steeply. Waterfowl ducked and dived around the boat, part of a wildlife menagerie of more than 100 bird species found here. My guide Alexis Lefevre was steering us through a network of more than 65km of public channels, known in French as \u003Cem\u003Erieux\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A quiet electric engine pushed us gently through lily-covered water with minimal disturbance to the tranquil surrounds.                                                                                                                                      \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe were in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visit-amiens.com\u002Fhortillonnages\"\u003EHortillonnages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Amiens in northern France, a unique urban wetland that Lefevre described simply as \"paradise in the city\". Here, the River Somme does far more than wind through the town; since medieval times, the river's marshy hinterland has been slowly fragmented and moulded by the city's inhabitants to create a 300-hectare watery kingdom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hortillonnages came into being in when locals started to dig peat from the marshy earth to burn as fuel. Over centuries, the complex network of trenches they cut filled with water from the ceaseless flow of the Somme, creating an intricate filigree of channels that have led Amiens to be dubbed \"the Venice of the North\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe waterways also created hundreds of tiny, fertile islands or \"floating gardens\", which have been used for eight centuries by locals for cultivation and recreation. The islands were farmed by growers known as \u003Cem\u003Ehortillons\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – also the ancient word for each small, cultivated patch – derived from the Latin \u003Cem\u003Ehortellus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning \"little garden\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cndtwp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat Latin derivation nods back to Amiens' ancient roots. Known in pre-Roman times as Samarobriva, Amiens became Ambianum under Roman rule, when it was a key centre of the Roman Empire in France (or Gaul, as it was) and boasted at least twice the population of what is now Paris, 120km to the south.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat eminence is reflected by the presence of France's largest cathedral, a soaring 13th-Century Gothic landmark whose facade is exuberantly decorated with more than 1,000 statues and carvings, from saints and tradesfolk to depictions of sins. In a neat act of communion uniting the twin glories of Amiens, legend has it that the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fjardin\u002Fetang-de-clermont\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eepic cathedral was built on an artichoke field \u003C\u002Fa\u003Edonated by one of the hundreds of medieval farmers who cultivated the fertile soil of the Hortillonnages. Legend also suggests that in return for his act of charity in providing the land, the cathedral builders placed a statue of the artichoke farmer on its façade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile past centuries saw several hundred hortillons working here full-time, the arrival of modern conveniences, like supermarkets from the 1950s onward, spurred a sharp decline in their numbers, and there are now only around 10 or so full-time market gardeners cultivating crops in the Hortillonnages. Those remaining, however, still transport a tempting array of fresh produce and flowers from their plots every Saturday to pile high in an atmospheric outdoor food market on the river quayside at Place Parmentier in the heart of Amiens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the past, the hortillons would ferry their produce in traditional vessels nicknamed \u003Cem\u003Ebarques à cornet \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(horn boats)\u003Cem\u003E – \u003C\u002Fem\u003Elong boats with a raised pointed end, whose shallow draught and wide flat decks were tailormade to navigate the channels of the Hortillonnages. Today, many of these striking boats have been pressed into service to carry visitors along various routes through the maze.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cndtqb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to food allotments and tourism, the vast array of tiny islands now also features eye-catching art installations, as well as areas of wilderness that provide a natural resource not just for relaxation, but education and social well-being programmes, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of these diverse uses come together at a place like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lejardindesvertueux.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Jardin des Vertueux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Garden of the Virtuous). Created more than 15 years ago, and still overseen by Pascal Goujon (more commonly known to locals simply as Paco), this abandoned and overgrown spot in the wilder eastern section of the Hortillonnages has been transformed into a quirky Garden of Eden celebrating ecology, sustenance and creativity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA sense of its former wildness remains alongside vegetable plots and giant artworks – which Goujon describes as \"vegetal sculptures\" – crafted with local materials, such as willow, by local artists working with schoolchildren. Goujon and his small team of helpers, like Lefevre, also take children out on boating safaris to discover the natural workings of the Hortillonnages– an ecosystem judged distinctive enough to earn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ramsar.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamsar status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E accorded to wetlands of international significance. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited, Goujon rattled off an impressive list of the crops he grows here: beans, potato, courgette, radish, tomato, melon, corn, berries, apple, pear and plums. \"The ground here is very, very good – we can have three harvests a year,\" he said. There are unusual new crops planned too, such as the herb angelica. \"We are going to use it to make perfumes,\" said Goujon , telling me of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fperfumesociety.org\u002Fingredients-post\u002Fangelica\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elong-time historical role\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as a source of musky aromatic notes in luxury scents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few miles from central Amiens in the satellite village of Rivery, I stepped into another boat to discover a very different side of the Hortillonnages: a remarkable \"gallery\" of art installations set into the landscape, many fashioned from natural materials. Often known as \"land art\", these creations stretched from the northern section of the Hortillonnages toward the city centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we glided around the rieux near Rivery, I admired a 2019 piece by Simon Augade called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fjardin\u002Faffaissement\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAffaisement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It rose from the bank of an island out into the waters of a little lake called Étang de Clermont, and featured an angled rising line of thin scorched wood holding up a pale column – a metaphor of fragile nature holding up an example of a man-made structure for millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cndtnv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese works amid the Hortillonnages are the fruit of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fdirectory-project\u002Ffestival-international-jardins-hortillonnages-amiens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Garden Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, inaugurated in 2010 to provide a stirring canvas for artists and landscape designers to create site-specific works within the marshscape. Over its dozen years, more than 180 pieces have been shown, though most are removed each year to make way for fresh ones. Just fewer than 50 installations have been kept as a more long-term collection, however, to which a dozen new works have been added for this year's showcase.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The festival is about helping inspire young creatives,\" explained Nahil Wehbe, who oversees boat tours around the festival artworks. As she steered our boat, she told me of the diverse background of contributing artists. \"This year we have artists from Togo, Japan, Belgium, the US and Taiwan – but also local art students from Amiens.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have long-term unemployed come to help take care of the gardens around the works","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are social benefits woven into this art festival, too. \"We have long-term unemployed come to help take care of the gardens around the works,\" said Wehbe. \"It gives people who are struggling a chance to work in nature and feel they can contribute. We see really good results.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENosing through channels punctuated by little lakes, we jumped off at various points to get up close to different thought-provoking works. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fjardin\u002Froques\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoques by artist Atelier Faber\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for example, is a square structure constructed for the 2020 festival from reclaimed wood, enclosing a space of exactly 20 sq m – which Wehbe explained refers to the amount of agricultural land being lost to modern development in France every second.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was a simple but forceful reminder of the importance of local food production, which the city council actively support, as Wehbe explained. \"The city is now giving islands for free to help the hortillons,\" she said. \"And we have a lot of projects planting vegetable gardens at high schools.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cndtm5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn another island, an installation entitled \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fjardin\u002F3-kilometres-a-la-ronde-alix-eoche-duval-cyril-servettaz-2021\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E3 Kilomètres à la Ronde\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlighted the biodiversity of the Hortillonnages, referring to the average distance a bee travels daily to gather its panoply of different pollen. \"And we give honey from the island to a local association that helps people who don't have food,\" added Wehbe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENear the boat embarkation point in Rivery, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amiens-tourisme.com\u002Fmusee-des-hortillonnages\u002Frivery\u002Fpcupic080v50f8ux\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMusée des Hortillonnages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also provides insights into human labour in the marsh landscape, featuring traditional items that illustrate the working lives of Amiens' market gardeners, assembled by two current hortillons, Thérèse and René Nowak. \"My motivation in creating the museum was to present my job through tools and photos of the Hortillonnages through time,\" said Thérèse. \"But I am proud that I still grow good local produce to sell.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAsked about her favourite objects, she picked out the full-sized traditional horn boat as an obvious big-ticket item, before adding: \"But the everyday tools – such as tillers for the soil – are as important too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my last afternoon, I ventured into the Hortillonnages on foot, entering through a gate off the main riverside towpath at a spot known as Île aux Fagots. Though this entrance to the gardens was only 15 minutes' walk from the bustle of central Amiens, I was enveloped in silence within minutes of entering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI traversed a few islands, wandering along trails winding through dense vegetation, and came to a path displaying an artwork called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artetjardins-hdf.com\u002Fen\u002Fjardin\u002Fpan-patrice-dion-2022\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPan by Patrice Dion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Featuring giant images of leaves transferred onto fabric using a historical photographic technique based on sunlight, it brought together nature, history, tranquillity and creativity. Just like the Hortillonnnages themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-29T10:33:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The ancient French town of floating gardens","headlineShort":"France's 'Venice of the North'","image":["p0cndv10"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.8941","longitude":"2.2958","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cndv10"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Carved out of the River Somme's marshy hinterland, the Hortillonnages is made up of 110km of slender canals that have led Amiens to be dubbed \"the Venice of the North\".","summaryShort":"The northern French town is home to a maze of floating gardens","tag":["tag\u002Fcity"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-28T22:34:22.496994Z","entity":"article","guid":"afbff5a8-f078-4a30-8ddf-da8a32be684a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-29T14:09:10.789141Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer","_id":"62df7f2c43d9f46d95451d88","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-mendez"],"bodyIntro":"The P'urhépechas were one of the only indigenous groups in Mexico the Aztecs failed to conquer – but despite that feat, they were nearly lost to history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is the legacy of our people,\" my uncle said as we gazed at the pyramids. We were not in Egypt, but rather in the town of Tzintzuntzan, in Mexico's south-western state of Michoacán. The pyramids, or \u003Cem\u003Eyácatas,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E looming in front of us were uniquely round and made of volcanic stone – perhaps the most intact relics of the P'urhépechas, a pre-Hispanic indigenous group that once reigned here, but that most people have never heard of. In fact, I'd never heard of them either until a few months ago, when I found out that I was a direct descendant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBorn and raised in California, I grew up unaware of this part of my heritage as it was lost in my family after my grandfather passed away in 1978. My grandmother was left with five kids and no income, but after saving up, she brought my dad and his siblings to the United States in 1983. Under pressure to assimilate, my father disconnected from our P'urhépecha culture, and it was only recently, when I began to be curious about my identity, that I started questioning him about our past. So in 2021, at the age of 31, he brought me to Michoacán for the first time. That's when I met my uncle Israel, and he revealed that not only were we P'urhépecha, but that my great-grandmother, Juana, was still alive and living in the small pueblo of Urén nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen people think about Mexico before \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fhistoric_figures\u002Fcortes_hernan.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHernán Cortéz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, they automatically think about the Aztecs, but what they don't know is that the P'urhépecha existed at the same time – and they were such a mighty kingdom that they were one of the only indigenous groups in Mexico that the Aztecs failed to conquer. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, that's the most common thing people in Mexico know about them, said Fernando Pérez Montesinos, assistant professor of indigenous environmental history at the University of California, Los Angeles. \"That's a very usual [way] of referring to the P'urhépechas and their history, but that's because we know that the P'urhépechas were as powerful as the Aztecs,\" he said, explaining that the Aztecs tried to fight the P'urhépecha in battle, but couldn't defeat them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStanding tall and strong at 4ft 10in (about 1.4m), my P'urhépecha great-grandmother is an elder of the community and lives in a weathered building made of cement walls and humble commodities. She can speak the endangered language, which is a fading trait in a country where Spanish is the official language. (Out of Mexico's estimated population of 128.9 million, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcvc.cervantes.es\u002Flengua\u002Fespanol_lengua_viva\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E124.8 million are native Spanish speakers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – whereas \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fjasonchumpitaz\u002FDownloads\u002F,%20and%20they%20all%20live%20in%20the%20state%20of%20Michoacán\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonly 175,000 speak P'urhépecha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and they all live in the state of Michoacán.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckc8g5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChatting in Juana's kitchen, I took in everything I could: how she cooks without electricity or a stove; her rows of dishes made from \u003Cem\u003Ebarro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (red terracotta clay); and the deep stone pit in the middle of the room where she was preparing a huge pot of \u003Cem\u003Enixtamal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, corn kernels processed in a specialized way to make \u003Cem\u003Etortillas de maíz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Excited about the new knowledge of my ancestry, I asked her where I could go to learn more about my P'urhépecha heritage. She stirred the food and gave my uncle a look of authority as she told him in Spanish, \"Take her to Pátzcuaro.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA day later, we were in the Lake Pátzcuaro basin – me, my uncle, aunts and cousins, staring in awe at these monuments that our ancestors had built to honour deities like their sun god, Curicaueri.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween the 14th and early 16th Centuries, the P'urhépechas dominated western Mexico with an estimated population of more than one million; Tzintzuntzan was their capital, where the \u003Cem\u003Eirecha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or ruler, lived. (The Aztecs, meanwhile, ruled in Central Mexico, and the P'urhépecha empire prevented them from amassing territory to the north and west.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckc663"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Jahzeel Aguilera Lara, a geographer and researcher at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, \"The yácatas of Tzintzuntzan – the 'place of hummingbirds' – are the best-preserved pyramidal structures in the region. In addition to learning about the P'urhépecha public architecture, [visitors] will also learn about the way in which the P'urhépecha understood the world and the importance that Lake Pátzcuaro had for them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe empire chose this area for a reason: the basin is home to a colossal lake with several habitable islands, plentiful fish and a surrounding landscape lush with mountains blanketed in pine trees. The area is so spectacular that the P'urhépechas believed the lake was a gateway to heaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a very important region for the emergence of the P'urhépecha in the pre-Hispanic state of our history,\" said Sandra Gutiérrez De Jesus, an indigenous P'urhépecha and professor of Latin American Studies and Chicano\u002Fa studies at California State University, Los Angeles. \"It was a scenario for gastronomical, cultural and linguistic encounters and exchanges.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut when the Spanish arrived at the Lake Pátzcuaro basin between 1521 and 1522, they captured the P'urhépecha ruler and forced the empire to relinquish its power. Still, as Pérez Montesinos explained, historians consider this transition more peaceful than the siege of the Aztecs. The P'urhépecha people were given more autonomy than their Aztec counterparts, and P'urhépecha elites continued to have influence and authority over the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nothing could be done without the permission or allowance of P'urhépecha elites,\" Pérez Montesinos said. \"The traditional way to see things is that the Spaniards came and did as they pleased, but what we know now is that the Spaniards always had to ask and negotiate with P'urhépecha elites in order to remain themselves on top.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The traditional way to see things is that the Spaniards came and did as they pleased, but what we know now is that the Spaniards always had to ask and negotiate with P'urhépecha elites in order to remain themselves on top","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne example he gives is the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud, constructed in Pátzcuaro around 1540. \"The conventional knowledge is that [Bishop] Vasco De Quiroga built that cathedral, but it was built by P'urhépecha hands,\" said Pérez Montesinos. He explained that the Spanish did not have to use forced labour to construct the cathedral, as the P'urhépecha community agreed to collaborate and lend their physical labour. \"There is this very dominant narrative of trying to downplay the achievements of the everyday P'urhépecha folks by highlighting how it was the Spanish friars who taught them how to make these artisanal works, but in the face of very daunting challenges, the P'urhépecha incorporated new things into their lives to make something original,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we travelled around the state, I started to see P'urhépecha touches in the architecture. Since Michoacán is rich with oak and pine trees, the P'urhépecha Empire became known for its expertise in wood constructions; their most notable buildings were traditional wooden houses called \u003Cem\u003Etrojes\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. After colonisation, the P'urhépecha people incorporated their craftsmanship into the Spanish colonial infrastructure that stands today throughout Michoacán. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince the P'urhépecha were able to maintain so much autonomy, the three administrative centres of their power – Tzintzuntzan, Pátzcuaro, and Ihuatzio – remained economic hubs during the colonisation era. \"I lived in Pátzcuaro during my childhood and it's the most beautiful place to visit for P'urhépecha history, there's no other place like it,\" my uncle told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we arrived at the town's Plaza Grande, a celebration of P'urhépecha culture was on full display, as is the custom every weekend in Pátzcuaro. Teenage boys performed a traditional dance called \u003Cem\u003EDanza de los Viejitos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Dance of the Elderly). They were dressed in white, with colourful handmade serapes and straw-like hats that were covered in vibrant rainbow ribbons. They dawdled with canes and donned uncanny masks of elderly men before breaking into a style of Mexican tap dancing called \u003Cem\u003Ezapateado\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. This pre-Hispanic dance was originally performed by the elderly as part of a ritual to the ancient gods, but after the P'urhépecha were colonised, it was used to mock the Spanish, which is why the dancers dress up in comical masks during their exaggerated imitation of old men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckc8qf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven though the empire acquired tremendous power and left behind this incredible legacy, the P'urhépecha Empire has largely been left out of Mexican discourse, overshadowed by the Aztecs. \"That has to do more with how Mexican nationalism came out in the 19th and 20th Centuries – everything is based around Mexico City, and the narrative of Mexican identity was built around mostly the legacy of the Aztecs,\" Pérez Montesinos said. \"Also, because there are more narratives of battles, wars and resistance against the Spaniards, there is a lot more material for an epic story, whereas with the P'urhépechas, you don't have the same type of drama.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I came home from Michoacán, I was a changed person, proud of this newfound knowledge about my heritage, culture and traditions. I was so enthused that I returned to Mexico six months later with my dad and sat down with my great-grandmother to pick up where we left off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Can you teach me P'urhépecha?\" I asked. Juana pointed past me and said, \"He can teach you.\" I turned around and realised she was pointing at my dad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What? You know how to speak P'urhépecha?\" I asked in disbelief.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe laughed and said, \"That was a long time ago, I \u003Cem\u003Eused\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to know, not anymore.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Juana countered him: \"You can teach her,\" she said. \"One never forgets, this is our culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-civilisations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELost Civilisations\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E delves into little-known facts about past worlds, dispelling any false myths and narratives that have previously surrounded them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-11T21:47:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The empire the Aztecs couldn't conquer","headlineShort":"The empire the Aztecs couldn't conquer","image":["p0ckc955"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.6292327","longitude":"-101.5815192","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ckc955"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The P'urhépechas were one of the only indigenous groups in Mexico the Aztecs failed to conquer – but despite that feat, they were nearly lost to history.","summaryShort":"They were a powerful political force, yet they were still nearly lost to history","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-10T21:48:01.826058Z","entity":"article","guid":"c36af0f7-d446-46d4-b55e-4df223cf984c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-12T11:54:31.095484Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmexico","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_mexico_north-america"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity","_id":"62df7ee943d9f4574a33a77e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the ancient Mississippian settlement of Cahokia, vast social events – not trade or the economy – were the founding principle.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPity the event planners tasked with managing Cahokia's wildest parties. A thousand years ago, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.state.il.us\u002Fmuslink\u002Fnat_amer\u002Fpre\u002Fhtmls\u002Fmiss.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMississippian settlement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – on a site near the modern US city of St Louis, Missouri – was renowned for bashes that went on for days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A cosmopolitan whir of language, art and spiritual ferment","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThrongs jostled for space on massive plazas. Buzzy, caffeinated drinks passed from hand to hand. Crowds shouted bets as athletes hurled spears and stones. And Cahokians feasted with abandon: burrowing into their ancient waste pits, archaeologists have counted 2,000 deer carcasses from a single, blowout event. The logistics must have been staggering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThings are quieter these days at Cahokia, now a placid \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F198\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But towering, earthen mounds there hint at the legacy of the largest pre-Columbian city north of Mexico. A cosmopolitan whir of language, art and spiritual ferment, Cahokia's population may have swelled to 30,000 people at its 1050 BCE peak, making it larger, at the time, than Paris. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's what Cahokia didn't have that's startling, writes Annalee Newitz in their recent book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwnorton.com\u002Fbooks\u002F9780393652666\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFour Lost Cities: A Secret History of the Urban Age\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The massive city lacked a permanent marketplace, confounding old assumptions that trade is the organising principle behind all urbanisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Cahokia was really a cultural centre rather than a trade centre. It still boggles my mind. I keep wondering 'Where were they trading? Who was making money?',\" Newitz said. \"The answer is they weren't. That wasn't why they built the space.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210405-the-enduring-allure-of-lost-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe enduring allure of lost cities\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200521-a-mysterious-us-desert-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA mysterious US desert civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENewitz isn't alone in their surprise. Assumptions that commerce is the key to urban life long shaped a Western view of the past, explains archaeologist Timothy Pauketat, who has studied Cahokia for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's definitely a bias that influenced earlier archaeologists,\" he said. When excavating cities in Mesopotamia, researchers found evidence that trade was the organising principle behind their development, then turned the same lens on ancient cities across the globe. \"People thought that this must be the basis for all early cities. It's led to generations of looking for that kind of thing everywhere,\" Pauketat said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey didn't find it in Cahokia, which Pauketat believes may instead have been conceived as a place to bridge the worlds of the living and the dead. For many cultures with roots in ancient Cahokia, \"water is this barrier between the world of the living and the world of the dead,\" Pauketat said. Sprawling across a landscape that combines solid earth with patches of swamp, Cahokia may have served as a kind of spiritual crossroads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a city built to straddle water and dry land,\" Pauketat said. Living residents settled in the driest spots, while burial mounds rose up in wetter places. Lidar scans of the site have revealed elevated causeways linking the \"neighbourhoods\" of the living and the dead, physical walkways that literally joined the realms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd if living at the cusp of the two worlds sounds rather sombre, Cahokians seem to have seen their hometown as a festive place. In Four Lost Cities, Newitz writes that Cahokia's planners crafted structures and public spaces devoted entirely to mass gatherings, places where individuals would be swept up by the joy of collective experiences.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost spectacular of all was the 50-acre Grand Plaza, where 10,000 or more people could come together for celebrations in a monumental space flanked by earthen pyramids.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's hard to capture the intensity, the grandeur, the multi-dimensionality of an event like that,\" Pauketat said. For days, food and drink would be carried into the city, where a phalanx of cooks fed people arriving for the festivities. Stockpiles of wild game, berries, fruits and vegetables became shared feasts. Visitors would sleep in temporary housing or the homes of friends, heading to the plaza for dances, blessings and other events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the plaza, the crowd's buzzing energy turned to a collective roar when spectators bet on bouts of \u003Cem\u003Echunkey\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The game kicked off when a player rolled a stone disk across the smooth surface of the ground. Taut with focus, hundreds of athletes hurled their spears even as the stone still bounced and rolled. The winner was the one whose spear stuck nearest to the chunkey stone, like a massive game of bocce played with deadly projectiles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETowering poles lining the Grand Plaza may have provided another spectacle of athletic grace, Pauketat said. He imagines men may have climbed the poles or tied themselves in for soaring, airborne dances, a ritual still practiced in some Maya parts of Mesoamerica. \"In the Mesoamerican ceremony, you have these big, tall cypress poles put in, and four guys who dress up as bird men and fly around those poles,\" he said. \"We've got those poles at Cahokia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShell beads, feathers and fine leather caught the sunlight as everyone donned their most elaborate costumes for such events, Pauketat explained. Cahokians loved a palette of red, white and black; people styled their hair into elaborate buns, mohawks and plumes. Tattoos adorned some bodies and faces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the parties ended, Cahokians swept waste into pits that now serve as accounts of what the citizens ate and drank together. A decade ago, analysis of pottery beakers archaeologists found at Cahokia revealed biomarkers for a species of holly, known as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea\"\u003Eyaupon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, that's the only caffeinated plant native to North America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECahokians, it seems, kept the festivities going in part by catching a buzz. And since the native range of yaupon is hundreds of miles from the city site, we know they put significant effort into obtaining it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat, in turn, may have cemented the plants' place in ritual life. \"Part of their value is in the difficulty of acquiring them,\" said anthropologist Patricia Crown, who led the analysis of the beakers. \"You had to have the networks to be able to get the substance if it was really important to your religious system. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the site of ancient Cahokia is preserved as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcahokiamounds.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECahokia Mounds State Historic Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Unesco World Heritage Site where archaeological work is ongoing. Seventy of the original mounds are protected there, and a long staircase leads to the summit of Monks Mound, with views across the Grand Plaza. Toting audio guides, visitors walk a 10km path winding through grassland, forest and wetlands. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce again, as in ancient times, a constellation of tall poles aligns with the rising sun to measure passing seasons. The onsite interpretive centre features recreated scenes of life here, along with displays of stone tools and pottery shaped by skilled Cahokian hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They fit right into American history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EModern life is not far away: Cahokia is framed by a middle-American sprawl of interstate highways and suburbia. But it wasn't modern development that ended Cahokia's thrilling story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEventually, Cahokians simply chose to leave their city behind, seemingly impelled by a mix of environmental and human factors such a changing climate that crippled agriculture, roiling violence or disastrous flooding. By 1400, the plazas and mounds lay quiet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Europeans first encountered the remarkable mounds at Cahokia, they saw a lost civilisation, explains Newitz in Four Lost Cities. They wondered if some faraway people had built Cahokia, then disappeared, taking with them the brilliant culture and sophistication that had once thrived in the soil of the Mississippi bottomland, where the earth is enriched by riverine floods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the people of Cahokia, of course, didn't disappear. They simply left, and with them Cahokia's influence wove outward to far-flung places, where some of their most beloved pastimes are cherished to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe yaupon they loved to drink is making a mainstream comeback as a sustainable, local tea that can be harvested from the forest. Chunkey – Cahokia's favourited game – never went away either. In some Native communities it has attracted a new generation of young athletes and is on the roster with stick ball and blow guns at Cherokee community games.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it's more than that. Cahokians loved to kick back over good barbecue and sporting events, a combination that, Newitz noted, is conspicuously familiar to nearly all modern-day Americans. \"We party that way all across the United States,\" they said. \"They fit right into American history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-civilisations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost Civilisations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E delves into little-known facts about past worlds, dispelling any false myths and narratives that have previously surrounded them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-13T19:42:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The US' lost, ancient megacity","headlineShort":"The US' lost, ancient megacity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the ancient Mississippian settlement of Cahokia, vast social events – not trade or the economy – were the founding principle.","summaryShort":"At its peak, it was larger than Paris","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:31.329852Z","entity":"article","guid":"7a75485f-ec2b-40d1-8e2b-da61c26652d4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-06T20:35:54.19133Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail","_id":"62df80f743d9f46d1b463c0f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Spain's Valencia Cathedral houses a relic that may be the Holy Chalice used by Jesus at the Last Supper – it has the right size, material, and history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Holy Grail – the sacred cup Jesus drank from at the Last Supper – is one of the most well-known symbols in Christianity. It's also one of the religion's greatest sources of myth and mystery. Yet despite the Grail's fame, no one is entirely sure where it is or whether it ever existed. However, in Spain, Valencia Cathedral believes it has the real thing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always say [the evidence] is like twigs from a tree,\" said José Verdeguer, Valencia Cathedral's Historical-Artistic Heritage Curator. \"If you only have one stick, it breaks easily. But if you join 50 together, you can no longer break them. Here, there are many arguments together and it is no longer easy to break them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVerdeguer was referring to a collection of evidence that some believe proves the authenticity of the chalice on view at the cathedral. The Grail itself is comprised of two parts: a cup made of reddish-brown agate stone, and a carved gold reliquary into which the cup is set. In the 1960s, an archaeological study concluded that the cup portion dated back to the 2nd or 1st Century BCE and was made by hand in a location between ancient Palestine and Egypt, the only place where that type of agate is found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVia her research, art historian and author Dr Ana Mafé learned that the gold stand dated to the 11th Century, suggesting that the artisans of that time knew that the top cup was a special relic and wanted to showcase it. Dr Mafé's research also determined that the chalice is the same size and volume as a traditional Jewish kiddush cup – a blessing cup – which is what Jesus would have used at the Last Supper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":[],"videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"Watch the video (Credit: BBC Reel)","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo explain how the Grail made its way from Jerusalem to Valencia, Verdeguer refers to the Christian belief that the Last Supper took place in the house of St Mark, a disciple of St Peter. He posits that when St Mark had to flee Jerusalem in 70 CE due to the Roman invasion, he took the valuable cup with him. From there, St Mark settled in Rome where the cup was passed on to various Popes and eventually to St Lawrence, who sent it to Spain for safekeeping from further wars. Eventually, it ended up in Valencia, the capital of the Kingdom of Aragon in the 1400s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, the revered relic has had a place of honour in the Cathedral. And although it's only been used to celebrate mass by Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI, it can be viewed by all visitors, along with the Cathedral's other relics, which include a supposed thorn from Jesus's crown and piece of the cross on which he was crucified.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If there is any chalice that, according to tradition, was in the hands of Jesus, without a doubt, the only cup that fulfils all the requirements when subjected to a scientific analysis that can be replicated anywhere in the world with the same results is the Holy Chalice of the Valencia Cathedral,\" said Dr Mafé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fancient-mysteries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Reel's Ancient Mysteries playlist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-15T19:55:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Does Spain have the Holy Grail?","headlineShort":"Does Spain have the Holy Grail?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.4755998","longitude":"-0.3774064,17","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Spain's Valencia Cathedral houses a relic that may be the Holy Chalice used by Jesus at the Last Supper – it has the right size, material, and history.","summaryShort":"It has the right shape, size, material and history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-14T20:02:23.172775Z","entity":"article","guid":"85890ae9-435c-481f-a4cf-99ec2b62425e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-12T11:22:43.104024Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished","_id":"62e1bdb143d9f460d03e0252","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fandrew-lofthouse"],"bodyIntro":"Mystery and myth surround the ancient society of Tartessos – it was even linked to Atlantis at one point. But excavations and technology are shedding new light on the culture.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter crunching across a gravel path, surrounded by sun-parched plains, I finally arrived at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fconstruyendotarteso.com\u002Fen\u002Fcancho-roano\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECancho Roano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E archaeological site. Standing here, in the Guadiana Valley of the Extremadura region in south-western Spain, I imagined how different this dusty and arid flatland would have appeared 2,500 years ago when it was a hub of trade and worship for Tartessos, a mysterious Iberian society that thrived between the 9th and 5th Centuries BCE – and then abruptly disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, though, a culmination of ongoing research and new technology are revealing more about this lost civilisation and the role it played in the history of Iberia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGoing back millennia, Tartessos has been referred to in Greek and Roman texts, but due to conflicting descriptions – and, for a long time, a lack of conclusive archaeological evidence – it has not been easy for modern historians and archaeologists to pinpoint what Tartessos even was – a city, a kingdom, a river?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHerodotus, the Greek historian from the 5th Century BCE, wrote of a harbour city beyond the Pillars of Hercules (modern-day Strait of Gibraltar), which led some researchers to think that Tartessos was a body of water and others to think it was a port (possibly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldhistory.org\u002Ftartessos\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocated around modern-day Huelva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Spain's southern coast). There were even theories, inspired by Aristotle's writings, that Tartessos was the mythical Atlantis, although this has been widely dismissed in the scientific community. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETartessos is now generally considered to be a civilisation that formed from a mixture of indigenous people and Greek and Phoenician colonisers in the Iberian Peninsula. And it was wealthy too, thanks to rich resources of metal and a prosperous trade economy. Early discoveries had led historians to believe that the civilisation was concentrated around Andalucía's Guadalquivir Valley, but more recent finds in the Guadiana Valley – farther west near Spain's border with Portugal – have made archaeologists rethink how expansive Tartessos was. In total, more than 20 Tartessos sites have been identified across Spain, and three have been excavated in the Guadiana Valley: Cancho Roano, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fconstruyendotarteso.com\u002Fen\u002Fsubmenu\u002Fcasas-del-turunuelo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasas de Turuñuelo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcampanario.es\u002Fturismo\u002Fque-visitar\u002Fyacimiento-protohistorico-de-la-mata\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Mata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cp0vlz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EArchaeologists uncovered Cancho Roano in 1978, and it revealed yet another piece of the story. The site contains the remnants of three Tartessian temples that were built in succession, each on the ruins of the previous, all of them orientated toward sunrise. An interpretation centre explains what's known of the history of the temples and the artefacts that were found inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe adobe walls of the most recent temple (constructed around the end of the 6th Century BCE) outline 11 rooms and span an area of around 500 sq m. But for reasons that archaeologists have not yet deciphered, at the end of the 5th Century BCE, the people living here conducted a ritual in which they ate animals, discarded the remains in a central pit, set the temple on fire, sealed it with clay and then abandoned it all – leaving a host of objects to burn inside, such as iron tools and gold jewellery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The discovery of Cancho Roano was a revolution in the archaeology of the Iberian Peninsula,\" said Sebastián Celestino Pérez, who was director during the 23-year excavation and is now a scientific investigator at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fconstruyendotarteso.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstitute of Archaeology in Merida\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He explained that not only were the site's walls, altar, moat and artefacts (such as jewellery, glasses and a warrior stele) well-preserved despite the fire, but many scientists didn't believe such a place could be found outside of Andalucía, where all previous evidence had been unearthed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cp0xg0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECasas de Turuñuelo, which has only been studied in the past few years (it was found in 2015), is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fconstruyendotarteso.com\u002Fen\u002FpaginasITM\u002Fcasas-del-turunuelo-\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebest preserved protohistoric building in the western Mediterranean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the site of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fconstruyendotarteso.com\u002Fen\u002FpaginasITM\u002Fhecatombe-animal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe largest animal sacrifice in the area\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – more than 50 animals – which is helping scientists understand more about the Tartessian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Turuñuelo [was] a sanctuary where a sacrifice of animals was also practiced and they were then thrown into the pit,\" said Celestino Perez, noting that this site was also burned down and sealed with clay in the same manner as Cancho Roano. \"But Turuñuelo has another functionality, more ostentatious – it is like a symbol of power. It is contemporary to Cancho Roano, but nevertheless the construction techniques used at Turuñuelo are much more advanced and the materials of greater richness and brought from many points of the Mediterranean.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsing a new technology called photogrammetry, archaeologists are taking photographs of the ruins at Turuñuelo, and then using software to blend them and create 3D images that virtually reconstruct the buildings. The process helps them understand the construction types and techniques and the raw materials used – and as a result, the ruins at Turuñuelo are now known to be Tartessian, rather than Roman as previously thought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cp0x84"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe La Mata site was found much earlier than the other two (in 1930), but it has striking similarities – and the approach now being used at Turuñuelo could unlock more of its secrets. \"The most surprising thing for me is the very peculiar habit [the Tartessos] had of destroying their homes, that is, in all the sites found, the same behaviour has been followed: emptying all the vessels and amphorae, burning the building and burying it,\" said Ana Belén Gallardo Delgado, a historian and guide at La Mata. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"With the new technologies, I hope that much more can be clarified about the origin of this civilisation and delve a little more into its way of life. The Tartessian presence in the Extremadura area is becoming more and more important thanks to new advances in archaeology. Also, it is believed that another eight burial mounds found in the Badajoz area could be Tartessian buildings like those already excavated,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cp0wvf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile research continues at the Extremaduran sites (Cancho Roano and La Mata are open to the public), history buffs can also view recovered Tartessian tools, horse statuettes and decorated ivory at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmuseoarqueologicobadajoz.juntaex.es\u002Fweb\u002Fview\u002Fportal\u002Findex\u002FstandardPage.php?id=75\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchaeological Museum of Badajoz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It's located inside the Alcazaba, a 12th-Century Moorish citadel perched atop a hill and surrounded by well-kept gardens close to the Portuguese border. As I browsed a gallery dedicated to the Spanish protohistoric period, museum attendant Celia Lozano Soto pointed out a stele engraved with Tartessian inscriptions, the first example of writing in the Iberian Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The language is still being studied and translated now,\" she said, \"it's a mixture of different things which make it unique in this respect.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA curious, palindromic script from around the 8th Century BCE, this writing stems from the Phoenician alphabet. It can be read from right to left or vice versa, although the sounds represented by each symbol are still uncertain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to the language, mass sacrifices and fires, the other big enigma of Tartessos is why it abruptly vanished about 2,500 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cp0xgg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEduardo Ferrer-Albelda, professor of archaeology at the University of Seville, pointed out that since the Tartessian society was rich in metals, any slow-down in trade could have ramped up tensions. \"A crisis in mining is also documented, but violence had to play an important role,\" he explained. \"The collusion between the Phoenician and indigenous aristocracies could have ended abruptly, so that an anti-Phoenician and anti-aristocratic movement can be assumed among the populations of the Tartessian area.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECelestino Perez espoused another theory. \"The most current thing is that it seems that there could have been an earthquake in the middle of the 6th Century BCE, followed by a tsunami that could have affected the main Tartessian ports, and that would be the cause of the rapid fall of Tartessos,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile understanding why the civilisation disappeared is important, the social and cultural impact of the Tartessos is the focus of current research.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Celestino Perez explained, \"What seems to be the Tartessian port of Huelva has been located. If confirmed, it could be a giant step to understanding the Tartessian trade network. And the so-called Tartessian tombs of the Guadiana [Cancho Roana, Turuñuelo and La Mata] seem to have the key to know this culture better.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-civilisations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELost Civilisations\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E delves into little-known facts about past worlds, dispelling any false myths and narratives that have previously surrounded them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-civilisations"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-28T10:34:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Iberian civilisation that vanished","headlineShort":"A lost city that mysteriously vanished","image":["p0cp6jk7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.6532247","longitude":"-5.6657006","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cp6jk7"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220414-does-spain-have-the-holy-grail"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mystery and myth surround the ancient society of Tartessos – it was even linked to Atlantis at one point. But excavations and technology are shedding new light on the culture.","summaryShort":"It was previously linked to Atlantis","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-27T22:35:12.807032Z","entity":"article","guid":"de986bc8-986f-4537-bb92-674ddf990210","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-28T17:18:24.950102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets","_id":"62df7eef43d9f46d85367bc5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Some vendors say moonlight and dew are the magic ingredients, but modern developments are moving this beloved sweet treat off the streets and into fine-dining restaurants.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the first chill of winter hits Delhi in mid-November, the city changes overnight. Rickshaw drivers don mufflers, morning chai becomes hotter and sweeter, and in Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk market, street vendors start selling \u003Cem\u003Edaulat ki chaat.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E The creamy seasonal confection resembles smooth tufts of mousse and can only be prepared in the cool weather, otherwise it will melt. Piled into deep aluminium vessels, it is shaped into a dome, dolloped with saffron foam, sprinkled with rose petals, and then covered in a fine muslin and set atop slabs of ice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen a customer approaches, the vendor pulls back the muslin like a bride's veil – a delicate, two-handed job – and scoops spoonfuls of the sugary whipped cream into a bowl, topping it with crumbled \u003Cem\u003Ekhurchan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rich, nutty, condensed milk solids), edible silver foil and nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a country known for its savoury street food, sweet daulat ki chaat is an anomaly. For one thing, \"chaat\" usually refers to a variety of savoury, tangy street food. For another, the origin of this dish largely remains a mystery. It shares similarities with other foamy snacks across northern India (\u003Cem\u003Emakhan malai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Kanpur, \u003Cem\u003Emalaiyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Varanasi, \u003Cem\u003Enimish\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Lucknow, \u003Cem\u003Esolah maze\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Agra and \u003Cem\u003Edudh na puff\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Gujarat), but any true fan will tell you that daulat ki chaat is a notch above the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EDaulat ki \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Echaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E loosely translates to \"snack of wealth\", an opulent moniker that might come from the effort and care that goes into crafting it. During the winter, Adesh Kumar, a well-known street vendor in Chandni Chowk, who took over his family's 40-year-old business from his father, wakes at 02:30 every morning except Sunday to hand-whisk a mixture of milk and heavy cream that he leaves out overnight in the cool air. (Street vendors prone to romanticising the dish will tell you that the milk and cream are left outside to be touched by moonlight and dew, which perfectly set the chaat.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsing a traditional \u003Cem\u003Emithani,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a wooden butter dasher coiled in string, he tugs the two loose string ends back and forth like a pulley until the liquid is transformed into an airy froth. Despite the availability of modern kitchen tools, Kumar firmly believes his handmade method (which he learned from his father) is better. \"The whole process [of whisking] takes us about six hours,\" he said. \"By 07:30 or 08:00, we're out selling it fresh for the day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the first chill of winter hits Delhi in mid-November, the city changes overnight. Rickshaw drivers don mufflers, morning chai becomes hotter and sweeter, and in Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk market, street vendors start selling \u003Cem\u003Edaulat ki chaat.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E The creamy seasonal confection resembles smooth tufts of mousse and can only be prepared in the cool weather, otherwise it will melt. Piled into deep aluminium vessels, it is shaped into a dome, dolloped with saffron foam, sprinkled with rose petals, and then covered in a fine muslin and set atop slabs of ice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen a customer approaches, the vendor pulls back the muslin like a bride's veil – a delicate, two-handed job – and scoops spoonfuls of the sugary whipped cream into a bowl, topping it with crumbled \u003Cem\u003Ekhurchan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rich, nutty, condensed milk solids), edible silver foil and nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a country known for its savoury street food, sweet daulat ki chaat is an anomaly. For one thing, \"chaat\" usually refers to a variety of savoury, tangy street food. For another, the origin of this dish largely remains a mystery. It shares similarities with other foamy snacks across northern India (\u003Cem\u003Emakhan malai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Kanpur, \u003Cem\u003Emalaiyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Varanasi, \u003Cem\u003Enimish\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Lucknow, \u003Cem\u003Esolah maze\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Agra and \u003Cem\u003Edudh na puff\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Gujarat), but any true fan will tell you that daulat ki chaat is a notch above the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EDaulat ki \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Echaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E loosely translates to \"snack of wealth\", an opulent moniker that might come from the effort and care that goes into crafting it. During the winter, Adesh Kumar, a well-known street vendor in Chandni Chowk, who took over his family's 40-year-old business from his father, wakes at 02:30 every morning except Sunday to hand-whisk a mixture of milk and heavy cream that he leaves out overnight in the cool air. (Street vendors prone to romanticising the dish will tell you that the milk and cream are left outside to be touched by moonlight and dew, which perfectly set the chaat.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsing a traditional \u003Cem\u003Emithani,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a wooden butter dasher coiled in string, he tugs the two loose string ends back and forth like a pulley until the liquid is transformed into an airy froth. Despite the availability of modern kitchen tools, Kumar firmly believes his handmade method (which he learned from his father) is better. \"The whole process [of whisking] takes us about six hours,\" he said. \"By 07:30 or 08:00, we're out selling it fresh for the day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKumar sells his richly named snack starting at 60 rupees (£0.63) a serving, and the price increases with the addition of other garnishes like crushed pistachios, silver foil or extra saffron foam. But with the cost of ingredients steadily rising these days, his profit margin is getting smaller. What's more, inflation is just one of a few present-day developments that are affecting the centuries-old dish; climate change (which shortens the selling season) and the interest of restaurant chefs in making upscale versions are also helping to create a perfect storm of modernity that could make daulat ki chaat disappear from the streets altogether.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince India has a long history of oral tradition, scholars don't know with absolute certainty how this dish came to be. But it's well-loved in Delhi for its romanticised links with the Mughals, an imperial dynasty remembered for their opulence. As Chef Sadaf Hussain, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fsadaf_hussain\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2016 MasterChef India finalist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachetteindia.com\u002FHome\u002Fbookdetails\u002FInfo\u002F9789388322416\u002Fdaastan-e-dastarkhan\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDaastan-e-Dastarkhan: Stories and Recipes from Muslim Kitchens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, explained, \"Chaat [in Hindi] means 'to lick'. And just like daulat [meaning 'money' or 'wealth'] vanishes, so does daulat ki chaat.\" He speculated that the addition of nuts and saffron might have also helped give the snack its wealthy status. \"This is what leads me to believe this is a very Islamic and maybe Mughal [dish],\" he added. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a wealthy person's chaat,\" Kumar agreed. \"It was eaten by Mughal royalty in the old days; it wasn't for the average person.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Mughals were a Turco-Mongol dynasty who colonised India between 1526 and 1858. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thenationalnews.com\u002Flifestyle\u002Ffood\u002Fdaulat-ki-chaat-why-this-500-year-old-dessert-from-old-delhi-is-still-a-firm-favourite-today-1.1136031\"\u003Elegend\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and to some vendors who sell the dish), daulat ki chaat was popularised by Emperor Shah Jahan's daughter, Jahanara Begum, whose urban planning influenced Shahjahanabad (modern-day Old Delhi) in the 17th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut since there's no specific mention of daulat ki chaat in authoritative Mughal-era texts – such as the 16th-Century Ain-e-Akbari (which details how Emperor Akbar managed his kingdom, down to his 400 cooks) and the 17th-Century Nuskha-e-Shahjahani (which lists Emperor Shah Jahan's recipes) – the origin of this dish has left culinary historians stumped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother theory of its origin is that the Botai tribe from Afghanistan, who churned and fermented mare's milk, brought the dish (or, at the very least, the technique for making it) to India \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebetterindia.com\u002F248432\u002Fdaulat-ki-chaat-recipe-delhi-street-food-history-c24\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evia the Silk Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\"It is \u003Cem\u003Epossible\u003C\u002Fem\u003E that this did come from the Botai,\" said Hussain, but he noted there's no written documentation to confirm this. Moreover, Hussain believes the process of was likely a preservation technique.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECulinary documentarian Shubhra Chatterji – director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FLost-Recipes\u002Fdp\u002FB08HD9LNWL\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost Recipes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E TV series and author of the upcoming culinary-history book Rasa: The Story of India in 100 Recipes (set to be released in India in 2023) agreed, pointing out that while the Botai are known for domesticating the horse, it is unlikely that the fermented mare's milk dish was deliberately a dessert. \"Food [back then] was functional,\" said Chatterji.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"It is very much a food of the streets which may have come from the courts [and] is now slowly making its way back into fine dining\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHussain believes that it's possible that the Mughal version developed when the empire started inviting artisans to its new capital of Shahjahanabad, as a way to enhance culture. He posited that an existing, denser dessert from Varanasi and Mathura, called \u003Cem\u003Emakhan malai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"butter cream\"), could have made its way there and was refined into daulat ki chaat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChatterji, on the other hand, thinks the sweet street food of today might have descended from the nawabs (or viceroys) of Lucknow, who had money and time to spare in the late 1800s after the British annexed their state. \"All the money, which was [previously] used for the military, went into patronizing the arts,\" she said. \"It could be here, under the nawabs, that \u003Cem\u003Enimish\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Lucknow's version of daulat ki chaat] might have come about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of its past, daulat ki chaat is having a moment now. It's become a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscroll.in\u002Fmagazine\u002F1017455\u002Flong-before-daulat-ki-chaat-became-an-instagram-favourite-it-was-an-unembellished-country-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etrend on social media\u003C\u002Fa\u003E thanks to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCGwbQuiDiFn\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estring\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FB7-cZHjljHS\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCZB5PXyJQmh\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einfluencers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who have popularised the pretty, Instagrammable dish. Fine-dining restaurants, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.havelidharampura.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaveli Dharampura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Chandni Chowk and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftresind.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrèsind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Mumbai, have begun to feature it on their menus too. Chef Manish Mehrotra's version at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findianaccent.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndian Accent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in New Delhi is perhaps the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCMW4R26nPWI\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost well-known\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: he prepares it using a pressurized cream-whipping siphon, and serves it \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.delhiplanet.com\u002F2019\u002F12\u002F10\u002Findian-accent-restaurants-corporate-chef-manish-mehrotra-tells-us-all-about-delhis-iconic-daulat-ki-chaat\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewith fake 500-rupee notes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for 720 rupees (£7.60), which is 12 times what street vendor Kumar charges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is very much a food of the streets which may have come from the courts [and] is now slowly making its way back into fine dining,\" said Chatterji.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe shift is making it hard for street vendors to compete. Restaurants can make and sell the delicate daulat ki chaat year-round at a fraction of the cost, using state-of-the art tools that are less labour-intensive and less time-consuming. What was once a family trade is being erased on account of this. Kumar's father, who learned the trade from a cousin, was able to put his five children through school and college. Other street vendors aren't as fortunate, though, and many see this as a dying art, with children who seek employment in other sectors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith additional challenges like climate change, the season for daulat ki chaat is shrinking too. Typically, it was cold enough for street vendors to prepare and sell it from Diwali to Holi (autumn to spring, or October through March), but the Kumars now only sell it between mid-November and mid-February. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, the Delhi dessert remains a favourite winter specialty for locals. \"I like daulat ki chaat much better than the other versions,\" said Hussain. \"It's light, it's not super sweet, and [is] perfectly balanced.\" To help sustain its future, sweet-toothed patrons should head to Chandni Chowk and ask street vendors like Adesh Kumar for a scoop – complete with all the toppings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fasia-fast-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Asia Fast Food\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E shines a light on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ebeloved family recipes and favourite street food stalls, where dishes are imbued with cultural significance and flavoured with a sprinkling of stories.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-18T19:22:46Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The beloved 'snack of wealth' made on Delhi's streets","headlineShort":"Delhi's opulent 'snack of wealth'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"28.6541847","longitude":"77.2238092","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Some vendors say moonlight and dew are the magic ingredients, but modern developments are moving this beloved sweet treat off the streets and into fine-dining restaurants.","summaryShort":"It has a short season but a long history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-17T19:36:09.47887Z","entity":"article","guid":"1583dd84-b069-41d3-8283-a34f8c1ac25c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-18T20:55:13.616181Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze","_id":"62df80ba43d9f46d1a3a0dfc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For years, sattu flour, the main ingredient in a variety of unpretentious street snacks, has remained at the fringes of India's urban foodscape – but now it's going mainstream.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKishan Yadav poured \u003Cem\u003Esattu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E powder into a steel pot half-filled with water and vigorously stirred the contents with a wooden ladle. He sprinkled the thickening mixture with salt, cumin powder, black pepper and a dash of lemon juice and whisked the beverage to ensure there were no lumps. Then he filled a tumbler with the pale-yellow shake, garnished it with a few onion slices and bright-green coriander leaves and handed it to me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Your sattu sherbet is ready,\" he said with a smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA band of his regular patrons – cart pullers and taxi drivers – waited patiently at his roadside kiosk in Kolkata for their own glasses, priced at a modest Rs 10 (£0.11). The cooling drink is an energy powerhouse for these workers. Many of them have come to this city from the states of Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, which are not only the source of a large migrant worker population but also the source of sattu in the first place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESattu sherbet has long been a ubiquitous health drink in India, especially popular among the working class in the Northern and Eastern zones, but it – and its main ingredient of sattu powder, made from Bengal gram (chickpeas, or other pulses and legumes) – has remained at the fringes of the urban foodscape. However, over the past couple of years, this flour has risen in popularity, tagged as an epicurean delicacy with a taste of home in upscale restaurants in Indian metropolises, where it is joining the ranks of vegan, gluten-free, so-called \"superfoods\" such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoringa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and millet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, foods made from the beloved flour have historically been consumed for their affordability versus trendiness. Yadav has been selling the sherbet at his stand for more than two decades, and as I sipped my drink, he explained the process of making sattu. Bengal grams are soaked in water, sun-dried and then roasted in a cast-iron pot filled with sand. The grams are then grinded along with the husk to form a fine, yellowish powder. Yadav said that the earthy notes of sattu are formed through this dry-roasting method, which has to be done on a wood-fired stove.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to food historian Colleen Taylor Sen, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FF\u002Fbo19145721.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this process goes back a long way. In her book, she recounts that during the Vedic period (circa 1500-500 BCE) barley seeds were pulverised into a powder called \u003Cem\u003Esaktu,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the predecessor of sattu – and that in medieval northern India, while meat and milk products were reserved for the elite, sattu was a staple for commoners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELabourers and farmers would mix it with water, salt and green chillies to have a nutritious and inexpensive lunch. \"Sattu has been typically associated with the food of working-class migrants from the eastern Gangetic valley [the floodplains along the lower-middle course of the Ganga River, encompassing eastern parts of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar]. Hence it carried low prestige and ranked lower in the urban hierarchy of taste among city dwellers, from middle-class Bengalis of Kolkata to Delhiite professionals,\" said Krishnendu Ray, associate professor of food studies at New York University and author of several books on food culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd this is precisely why sattu has become a political instrument in recent times, used as a symbol of unity within the working class in the eastern Gangetic plains, which constitute a major chunk of the electorate. In 2018, Bihari politician Tej Pratap Yadav \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhindi-news18-com.translate.goog\u002Fphotogallery\u002Fbihar\u002Fvaishali-tejpratap-is-real-successor-of-lalu-prasad-yadav-sattu-party-of-tejpratap-1442376.html?_x_tr_sl=hi&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eorganised a sattu party in his constituency\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where he talked with the voters and listened to their problems over sattu meals. And in February 2020, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hindustantimes.com\u002Findia-news\u002Fpm-s-date-with-litti-chokha-rings-election-bell-in-bihar\u002Fstory-qgasSc9BlVW7UzlwbBA3xH.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ephoto of Prime Minister Narendra Modi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E savouring \u003Cem\u003Elitti chokha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the signature, sattu-stuffed dough balls emblematic of Bihari cuisine) sparked a heated political debate. While Modi's followers lauded his gesture of giving the dish its overdue acknowledgement, his detractors called his actions a cleverly timed political stunt just before the state elections in Bihar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELitti chokha have been my own favourite street snack for a long time, and I have always found the best versions at Nimtala Ghat Street in North Kolkata, a chaotic 1km stretch near the banks of River Hooghly. Here, street shacks rustle up endless tiny littis, flipping them on a tawaa (a flat, metal cooking pan) over a coal or wood fire. At Rs 40 (£0.43), every portion consists of five or six litti balls and a side of chokha (roasted vegetables like eggplant, tomatoes and potatoes). A tangy chutney of green chillies, tamarind, mint leaves and wispy shreds of garlic completes the flavour profile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"But things have changed a lot over the last few years,\" said Pankaj Mishra, co-owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zomato.com\u002Fkolkata\u002Fthe-litti-king-bhawanipur\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Litti King\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small restaurant specialising in Bihari cuisine in an upscale neighbourhood of South Kolkata. \"When we opened our joint in 2016, we did not imagine that litti chokha and sattu sherbet would be so popular among the well-heeled.\" Both items now feature on menus for upmarket wedding and plush poolside parties. \"Some of the city's top industrialists are our regular patrons,\" Mishra said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFood studies professor Ray had an idea as to why. \"The new panic about health among elites – associated with over-consumption of junk food and sedentary lifestyles – is now accentuated by Covid and has set them on the pursuit of 'superfoods',\" he said. \"This is where sattu has come in with its putative protein and micro-nutrient content.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe health-conscious across Indian metros such as Delhi and Bangalore are also discovering the delights of sattu in high-end restaurants, where chefs are adding contemporary spins to the rustic recipes by incorporating grated cheese to the dough or lending a tangy twist with pickles. The trend has caught on in gourmet stores too, where sattu is offered in fancy packaging starting from Rs 190 (about £2) per kg, which is about 2.5 times costlier than the time-tested varieties used in the street stalls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There has been an unprecedented rise in sale of sattu packets in recent months,\" said Sayoni Samanta, a saleswoman at a South Kolkata outlet of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.spencersretail.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpencer's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pan-Indian retail chain. \"I think the customers are preferring those products that come with organic and gluten-free labels,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDr Tulasi Srinivas, a professor of anthropology at Emerson College in Boston, said, \"Transformation of dishes like sattu are a kind of elite cultural appropriation and gentrification. For the elite, it's a voyage of discovery whereby they can demonstrate their culinary knowledge of something healthy and 'exotic'. It also works well for the marketers of these 'superfoods'. But what I am glad about is that it is a healthy local food that is getting rediscovered and mainstreamed.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI saw that for myself at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zomato.com\u002Fkolkata\u002Fbaati-chokha-sector-3-salt-lake\u002Freviews\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaati Chokha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a fine-dining establishment specialising in Purvanchali (Bihar and Eastern Uttar Pradesh) and North Indian cuisine, located in Salt Lake, Kolkata's preeminent IT hub. On that weekday night at around 22:00, most of the tables were occupied by young office workers. At a table near me, Deepika – an employee at an infotainment firm in the neighbourhood – was fiddling with her phone and taking small, occasional helpings of litti chokha, artfully plated in front of her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I come here often for a late-night snack during my breaks,\" she said, pointing to her half-finished plate. \"This was not something I grew up with, so bit of an acquired taste for me. But now I love the earthy flavour of these sattu-filled discs. Easy on my stomach but filling enough to see me through my night shifts. And importantly, its low glycaemic index means no guilt pangs, as was often the case with the junk bites I used to gorge on,\" she added with a smile.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few days later, I went back to Yadav's sattu stall to see how felt about his unpretentious street staple going upscale. On that sweltering June afternoon, it was business as usual for him, and he did not seem too interested in sattu's emerging trendiness. “As long as I can provide my customers their glass of sherbet at Rs. 10 [£0.11], I am happy. I only hope all this hullabaloo does not shoot up the prices,” he said. Lallu, a middle-aged cart puller, stood nearby listening attentively. He finished his drink, murmured in agreement and went back to pull his loaded cart from the side of the kiosk on to the busy streets of Kolkata.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-27T10:44:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"India's next big street-food craze?","headlineShort":"India's next big street-food craze?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.6763858","longitude":"88.0495291","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For years, sattu flour, the main ingredient in a variety of unpretentious street snacks, has remained at the fringes of India's urban foodscape – but now it's going mainstream.","summaryShort":"Sattu has remained at the fringes of the urban foodscape – until now","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-26T21:58:06.684936Z","entity":"article","guid":"148e0453-da5f-48cf-89be-903e793bce84","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:29:33.542715Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","_id":"62df7ed343d9f4586c232dd0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a “superfood”. But in India, turmeric has been a staple ingredient for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first time I came across the beverage at a chic London coffeeshop a few years ago, I goggled in disbelief. Turmeric latte, described in rather grand terms as “golden milk” (almond or coconut, of course) with a hint of cinnamon and black pepper, sweetened with agave syrup and… At that point, I stopped reading. Partly because I caught sight of the rather startling price. And partly because I could almost hear the delighted chuckles of thousands of Indian grandmothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was briefly transported to my childhood, to memories of my mother trying to cajole and coerce me into drinking a glass of warm milk mixed with a pinch of turmeric powder and sweetened with refined white sugar – no nut milk or natural sweeteners there. Without much effort, I can still recall the vile residual mouthfeel – it is only as an adult that I learned to describe the taste of turmeric in words like “pungent” and “peppery” – of turmeric milk, or \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi doodh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as Hindi speakers in India know it, and \u003Cem\u003Epalile manjal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as my mother called it in our language Tamil. She was likely trying to soothe my sore throat or calm my feverish body with what many Indians still consider a liquid panacea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In India, turmeric is much more than an unassuming kitchen spice","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a “superfood”, adding fresh turmeric root to tea and coffee, in tall cold shakes and tiny potent shots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince that first encounter in London, I have found turmeric-laden beverages in (mostly hipster) cafes and coffee shops everywhere from San Francisco to Melbourne. But in India, turmeric has been a staple kitchen ingredient for a long time, used both in its original rhizome or root form, and, more commonly now, in powdered form. My own \u003Cem\u003Emasala dabba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (box containing seasoning and tempering ingredients) has always had turmeric powder amid the mustard seeds, fresh cumin and chilli powder – as my mother’s did and her mother before that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric is used mainly as a colouring agent in traditional Indian cooking, especially in curries and gravies. Fresh and tender turmeric root is also made into \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi ka achar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (turmeric pickle), which is tempered with heated oil on top, and in a few communities, the leaves are used as steaming “envelopes” for foods. Food writer and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarryamhreshii.com\u002Fabout-marryamhreshii\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-flavour-of-spice\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Flavour of Spice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Marryam Reshi told me, “I used to grow turmeric in my home in Goa so that I could make a local sweet called \u003Cem\u003Epatholyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (also \u003Cem\u003Epatoleo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Epatholi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E). Coarsely ground rice is mixed with black jaggery and then steamed between two turmeric leaves; that is what gives it a unique floral flavour.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200406-are-there-benefits-to-eating-turmeric-and-other-spices?\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAre there benefits to eating turmeric and other spices?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200224-indias-little-known-mizo-tribal-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia’s little-known Mizo tribal cuisine\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECurious to know if turmeric has a place in contemporary Indian cooking, opposed to just traditional cooking, I spoke to Thomas Zacharias, executive chef at Mumbai’s popular restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebombaycanteen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Bombay Canteen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that prides itself on using only fresh and local ingredients. Zacharias described turmeric as a “background ingredient with minimal flavour or taste”. He added, “I think most people in India use it out of habit, rather than with any thought about what value it adds to a dish.” Zacharias himself likes to cook with fresh turmeric as a star ingredient whenever possible, like in his version of the Kerala fish curry known as \u003Cem\u003Emeen moilee\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric, which is from the same family as ginger, is cultivated in several states in India, with the country \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.financialexpress.com\u002Fmarket\u002Fcommodities\u002Fhigher-output-of-turmeric-could-lower-prices-in-current-season\u002F1492658\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccounting for more than 75% of the world’s production\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to the Financial Express. India is also the largest exporter and consumer of turmeric. The warm and humid southern states of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu are particularly known for mass cultivation and superior quality of the crop. Planting takes place between May and August, depending on the region, and the crop is harvested from January on for a couple of months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is not surprising then that in the Tamil harvest festival of Pongal in mid-January, fresh turmeric leaves and roots are tied to the mouth of the ceremonial pot in which milk is boiled, indicating abundance. For in India, turmeric is much more than an unassuming kitchen spice, assuming a significant place in culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong many Hindu communities, turmeric is used in festive occasions like weddings as a marker of fertility and prosperity. The pre-wedding \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E ceremony, for instance, involves family elders applying turmeric paste on the faces of the bride and the groom in a blessing-meets-beauty ritual. The \u003Cem\u003Etaali\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Emangalsutra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a thread tied around the bride’s neck by the groom to formalise the marriage) is often a thick woven thread dipped in turmeric water; and even now, clothes worn on auspicious occasions (including weddings) have a touch of turmeric powder in some corner. Also, Indian women have always added a pinch of turmeric to their homemade face packs, believing that it leaves the skin clear and glowing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReshi explained that while most common spices were brought into the country by explorers and invaders (chilli from South America and cumin from the Eastern Mediterranean region, for instance), turmeric is native to India. “It is our spice, as no other spice is,” she said, “the way we have embraced it so heartily, and the faith we have in its healing properties can come from only millennia of familiarity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I checked into a reputed Ayurveda hospital in Kerala for a chronic pain condition 10 years ago, I was immediately put on a treatment of \u003Cem\u003Emanjakizhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or turmeric poultice, along with the other remedies of massages and medicines. As the senior physician explained it then, Ayurveda states that turmeric helps in reducing inflammation and therefore pain\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom applying a turmeric paste over sprained ankles to sniffing a smoked rhizome clump to ward off a cold, many Indians use turmeric as a home remedy, and it has been used in the traditional medical system of Ayurveda for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Turmeric is the only medicinal ingredient that is used to treat all the doshas, to balance vata, pitta and kapha,” said Dr Isaac Mathai, founder of Bangalore’s Soukya Holistic Health Centre, referring to the three energies that Ayurveda believes every human body is composed of. As well as anti-inflammatory benefits, there is also a belief that turmeric contains antioxidant and antiseptic properties, though all these healing powers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200406-are-there-benefits-to-eating-turmeric-and-other-spices\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eare as yet unproven by scientific research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric gets both its bright yellow colour and its purported health benefits from the chemical component called curcumin. One theory is that curcumin’s efficacy is boosted by the way it is fried in oil in Indian cooking. “Curcumin is a fat-soluble compound, combining turmeric with fats enhances the absorption of curcumin than eating it in a water-soluble form,” said nutrition expert and author of \u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saffrontrail.com\u002Feveryday-healthy-vegetarian-cookbook-nandita-iyer\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saffrontrail.com\u002Feveryday-healthy-vegetarian-cookbook-nandita-iyer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Everyday Healthy Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nandita Iyer. Which if true, it would be music to my ears. It means I can say no to haldi doodh without any guilt, while binging on spicy and oily haldi ka achar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs for those who shell out big bucks for a turmeric latte at a hipster cafe, though, be warned that it may not address all ills. Perhaps they would do better to think of it as a warm and cosy pick-me-up, rather than a panacea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-24T20:58:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"India’s original “turmeric latte”","headlineShort":"How the West got turmeric wrong","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a “superfood”. But in India, turmeric has been a staple ingredient for centuries.","summaryShort":"“It is our spice, as no other spice is”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:11.776212Z","entity":"article","guid":"89f68424-0b78-43b4-8e12-2775cc227a4b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:11:24.029593Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","_id":"62e06c5f43d9f46d8f207371","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz"],"bodyIntro":"Ghee had fallen out of favour as saturated fats were considered unhealthy. But now, Indians are finding their way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndian food author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.finelychopped.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKalyan Karmakar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is making up for lost time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, he enjoys the subtle touch of ghee in many of his favourite Bengali dishes, adding it to steamed rice with fried \u003Cem\u003Ekaatla \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efish (Indian carp) for \u003Cem\u003Eghee b\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and swirling it into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=Am24nX2Bayk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephyaana bhaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a one-pot rice dish cooked with its own starch, mashed potato and a boiled egg. Even his \u003Cem\u003Ekhichuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (also spelled \u003Cem\u003Ekhichdi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), a comforting rice and lentil porridge Karmakar associates with rainy days, is incomplete without the ubiquitous fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn't always like this.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I belong to the set of people who grew up under the impression that ghee is unhealthy and [I am] now making up for it,\" he said, \"It's [essentially] the purest food on Earth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor millennia, ghee has been a venerated staple of the subcontinental diet, but it fell out of favour a few decades ago when saturated fats were largely considered to be unhealthy. But more recently, as the thinking around saturated fats is shifting globally, Indians are finding their own way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Karmakar, a renewed interest in ghee is emblematic of a return-to-basics movement in India, which was years in the making but fast-tracked during the pandemic, when \"people started being more mindful about their food\", he explained. This movement is also part of an overall trend towards \"slow food\". In keeping with the movement's philosophy, ghee can be produced locally (even at home) and has inextricable cultural ties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp03x9tzv.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Indians make ghee at home by skimming off the cream (called \u003Cem\u003Emalai \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Hindi) that forms when unpasteurised raw milk is boiled. Then, they churn it, traditionally by hand using a wooden stick, but now, more frequently, in a blender – usually adding a spoon of yogurt or curd and ice cubes – to make butter. The butter floats on top of the buttermilk (which is reserved to prepare other dishes, such as lentils) and is then boiled to make ghee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The DIY Method","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaking ghee is a labour of love for Nitin Ahir, co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgirorganic.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGirOrganic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a dairy farm and ghee producer in the city of Surat in the west Indian state of Gujarat. Instead of using imported cow breeds like Jersey, Holstein and Friesian like mass producers do, he gets his milk from his herd of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgirorganic.com\u002Fblogs\u002Fnews\u002Fwhat-is-gir-cow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGir cows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Indian-born breed native to the Gir hills and forests of the Kathiawar Peninsula. He allows his cows to graze openly on grass and makes sure that calves have their rightful first share of their mothers' milk before milking. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskyroots.in\u002Fa2-ghee-or-a1-ghee-know-the-difference\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA2 ghee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a type of ghee that is considered nutritionally superior, is made via the \"bilona method\" in which a small motor-operated machine moves clockwise and anti-clockwise mimicking the traditional motion of a handheld wooden churner, a process that he admits \"isn't the most cost-effective and resists large scale production\". Nevertheless, he estimates he's witnessed a 25-30% increase in demand for his ghee since the pandemic began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt a basic level, ghee is a type of clarified butter believed to have originated in India as a way to preserve butter from going rancid in the hot climate. Churned cream or butter is simmered slowly until the moisture evaporates and any browned milk solids are removed, resulting in a sumptuously rich, fragrant and nutty fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cnztnv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor many Indians, however, ghee is historically something more sacred than just a cooking fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Ghee is the final and purest form of milk – the last extract,\" said author and food historian Pritha Sen. \"It was considered the purest offering to the gods and the medium by which prayers were carried to the heavens.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts history dates back millennia. \"Paeans to ghee are found in the Rig Veda, a collection of ancient hymns and prayers dating back nearly 4,000 years,\" explained Colleen Taylor Sen, a Chicago-based food historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FF\u002Fbo19145721.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"According to legend, Prajapati, lord of the creatures, rubbed his hands together to create the first ghee, which he poured into flames to create his children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGhee is also deeply woven into the fabric of Indian culture. Traditionally, Hindus pour ghee into fire at marriages, funerals and other ceremonies as it is believed to be auspicious. In \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874116307826\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAyurveda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a traditional Indian system of medicine, Ghee is considered a virtual panacea. And its wholesome qualities have been embraced by generations of mothers and grandmothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cnzv34"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor US-based food author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharpercollins.co.in\u002Fauthor-details\u002Fsandeepa-datta-mukherjee\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESandeepa Mukherjee Datta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bongcookbook.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBong Mom's Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, choosing ghee when it was time to introduce fat and oil to her babies was a no-brainer. \"[It's] good fat, to give the young bones and brain nourishment and vitamins,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer mother took things a step further, insisting on nothing but homemade ghee. \"She would make small jars of ghee and send it for her granddaughters with anyone who was flying across the Atlantic,\" said Datta. \"That ghee was pure and tasted like a gift from heaven.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"That ghee was pure and tasted like a gift from heaven.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Ghee is not only a medium to cook and fry food,\" said Datta. \"Before the advent of fancy cereals and oats, every Bengali child was unified by the same breakfast dish on school mornings.\" The dish, \u003Cem\u003Eghee-alu sheddho-bhaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ghee-mashed potatoes-rice), she explained, is almost Bengal's unofficial state food. \"In those days, before carbs and fat got a bad rap, mothers felt this dish was the right balance to fortify their children throughout the day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat \"bad rap\" – due to claims that saturated fats are bad for heart health – affected ghee, which has up to 50-70% saturated fat. For a few decades, consuming ghee fell out of favour in India. In the 1980s, vegetable oils were heavily promoted by the industry, and as vegetable oil consumption went up, ghee consumption went down. \"The advertising would really shake you up,\" he said. \"The urban and Western exposed population began looking down on traditional oils and using the vegetable oil.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith time, the neutral flavour of refined vegetable oil became the norm – and ghee the exception.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cnztc1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The whole fat conversation from the 1980s onwards was out to make saturated fats [the villain] – fortunately, we understand the fat and cholesterol space better now,\" said celebrity chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Franveerbrar.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERanveer Brar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an author, restaurateur and MasterChef India judge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile experts still advise against a high-fat diet, some have begun to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftime.com\u002F5571810\u002Fis-ghee-healthy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emellow their stance on the overall risks of saturated fat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And thanks partly to the high fat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Farticles\u002Fketo_diet_weight_loss\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eketo diet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E craze, ghee's popularity has soared in countries like the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the West's newfound interest in ghee may be somewhat misguided. For one thing, much is made of ghee's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thespruceeats.com\u002Fsmoking-points-of-fats-and-oils-1328753\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehigh smoke point\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which passionate advocates extoll for its ability to withstand higher temperatures than butter. But according to Brar, the objective of cooking with ghee \"isn't to get to smoking temperature in the first place; [it's] just to a point of extracting the flavours.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, in India, ghee is not consumed in copious amounts for a quick-fix or to help stick to lower carb \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fwhat-is-the-macro-diet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emacros\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (due to the fat's satiating effect). Instead, the traditional approach to ghee is one of moderation, harmony and grace. Here, the pale yellow, crumbly fat isn't just \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bulletproof.com\u002Frecipes\u002Fbulletproof-diet-recipes\u002Fbulletproof-coffee-recipe\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblitzed into coffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it stars as a final touch to dishes, moving slowly as small dollops of it are transformed by heat into a molten gold liquid, settling into every mouthful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cnztkt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo how is ghee best used? Brar recommends using ghee with lentils or in dishes with pronounced lactic notes, such as yoghourt-based curries, like \u003Cem\u003Ekorma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \"Start with a light smear on your soups in winter, on your pita or flatbread. [Then] you can use it for marinating and tempering. [Eventually], it becomes an essential part of the [overall] bouquet that you inhale,\" Brar said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Manish Mehrotra, culinary director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findianaccent.com\u002Fnewdelhi\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndian Accent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurants and part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oldworldhospitality.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld World Hospitality\u003C\u002Fa\u003E group for the past 22 years, said it was important to him when setting a menu to include recipes paying homage to the unique flavour of ghee. He is confident the world is coming to understand his country's cuisine and recognise its \"authentic\" tastes. One of Mehrotra's signature dishes is ghee roast mutton \u003Cem\u003Eboti \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(savoury chunks of flavourful meat), \"The ghee imparts this smoky-sweet flavour. It's one of our best-sellers,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Nikita Rao of Mumbai's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ekaamumbai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEkaa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant believes in celebrating the distinctive nature of each ingredient. \"It's ingredient-driven fine-dining,\" she said. With such concerted focus on the food itself, she explained how the ethos behind using ghee in a recipe is allowing it to assimilate and let other components sing. Her Morning Glory salad with tamarind dressing, for instance, is topped with homemade creme fraiche and  a tempering of ghee, curry leaves and fiery \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tarladalal.com\u002Fglossary-resham-patti-chillies-resham-patti-mirch-336i\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresham patti chillies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The tempering is less than 10% of the entire salad, but people absolutely love it, and buffalo ghee complements the entire dish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cnzv4w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, understanding ghee means understanding a collective Indian identity, an approach to food that is cohesive, holistic and balanced – and one where ghee isn't a piecemeal part or overpowering presence. And when ghee is understood for its true essence, good things are sure to follow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrar always has ghee within arm's distance of his stovetop. As he said, \"I've grown up with my grandma's \u003Cem\u003Echunni\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [scarf or stole] and the whole house smelling of ghee. When I reach for ghee, I'm searching for more than just a fat. I'm reaching out for my childhood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2022-07-27T10:33:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The purest food on Earth?","headlineShort":"Ghee: 'The purest food on Earth'","image":["p0cnzv0t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.3613106","longitude":"85.6069005","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cnzv0t"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220717-the-beloved-snack-of-wealth-made-on-delhis-streets","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220626-indias-next-big-street-food-craze","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Ghee had fallen out of favour as saturated fats were considered unhealthy. But now, Indians are finding their way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.","summaryShort":"This \"good fat\" has been a venerated staple of the subcontinental diet","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-26T22:35:57.333255Z","entity":"article","guid":"5905d6c9-f5aa-41de-a0c7-2d987f301bce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-27T12:39:38.806243Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078295},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"62df7fa843d9f46d947e0217","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist","_id":"62df7eaf43d9f42c880fb378","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Chicana author Stephanie Elizondo Griest searches through a digitised archive of old Mexican recipes hoping to find the answer to one question: what is 'real' Mexican food?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up Mexican American just 150 miles from the border, I thought I understood my ancestral cuisine. A tortilla was a fluffy, flour disc that your \u003Cem\u003Eabuela\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grandmother) warmed over the stove and slathered with butter and honey. \u003Cem\u003EQueso\u003C\u002Fem\u003E was a brick of neon-coloured Velveeta cheese your mum melted in a pot with a can of green chillies and served with Tostito corn chips during the Dallas Cowboys game. And tamales were a spicy blend of pork, masa and Crisco vegetable shortening that your \u003Cem\u003Etias\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (aunties) smeared over corn husks and steamed for Christmas dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, it was a shock when, on my first trip into Mexico’s interior 25 years ago, I opened a menu and recognised none of the options. Where were the fajitas sizzling on a platter? What made the enchiladas \u003Cem\u003Esuizas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Swiss) and the eggs \u003Cem\u003Edivorciados\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (divorced), and what happened to the complimentary chips and salsa?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EApprehension evaporated with my first bite, however. I had ordered \u003Cem\u003Echiles en nogada,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E hoping it would approximate the \u003Cem\u003Echiles rellenos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E I loved back in South Texas, but no. This poblano chilli was not battered and fried but blackened over a flame and stuffed with beef, potatoes, peas and squash cooked in a tomato puree. Instead of being smothered in neon cheese, it was covered in a walnut cream sauce flecked with parsley and pomegranate seeds. The flavour was extraordinary: smoky with hints of oregano and cloves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd it wasn’t just \u003Cem\u003Echiles en nogada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In restaurants and at street stalls across Mexico, I savoured foods radically more complex, delicious and nutritious than what my community ate back home. Fresh corn tortillas replaced packaged wheat; pork belly was favoured over Crisco. Herbs and vegetables were harvested moments before use. Cooks selected chillies for their taste and aroma rather than their capsaicin. Cheese was used sparingly, with no Velveeta in sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf this was Mexican food, what had I been eating all my life?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen they invaded the Aztec Empire in the 15th Century, Spanish conquistadores were also amazed by the food. Montezuma dined on platters of duck, venison, rabbit and fruit, along with cauldrons of frothed chocolate and stacks of corn tortillas. According to scholar Jeffrey M Pilcher in his book Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food, the colonisers feared adopting too much of this diet, lest they become \"Indians\" too. Corn was especially disparaged: the clergy deemed it \"pagan\". But over the centuries, the food Spaniards brought over on their ships from Europe – cows, pigs, wheat, olive oil, wine, spices – coalesced with Native ingredients and techniques to form a \u003Cem\u003Emestizo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (literally “mixed blood”) cuisine that was further enhanced by enslaved Africans and immigrants from Asia and Central Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I see the world in these books","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo trace this evolution, I logged on to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdigital.utsa.edu\u002Fdigital\u002Fcustom\u002Fmexicancookbooks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexican Cookbook Collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the University of Texas at San Antonio (UTSA). Among its 2,000 volumes is a digitised set of handwritten recipe books that were passed down through Mexican families as far back as 1789. The frayed pages reveal thousands of recipes calligraphically recorded by household matriarchs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome are so vague that they serve more as a reminder than as a recipe, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdigital.utsa.edu\u002Fdigital\u002Fcollection\u002Fp15125coll10\u002Fid\u002F9667\u002Frec\u002F27\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarmen Ballina’s 1937 directive for caldo [soup] for 12\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: “Starting early in the morning, boil in water a kilo of meat, garbanzos, carrots and whatever else you’d like. When the soup is done, start cooking whatever pasta you wish to add, tapioca, wheat, fideo, etc.” Such entries, composed in breathless paragraphs, read almost like prose poems. Others are rigorously detailed with meal plans, place settings and – in the case of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdigital.utsa.edu\u002Fdigital\u002Fcollection\u002Fp15125coll10\u002Fid\u002F13153\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHortensia Volante’s 1916 manuscript\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – an illustration of how to ice a cake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I see the world in these books,” Carla Burgos, a UTSA graduate student who has spent the past two years transcribing them, told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack when Mexico was still a colony, the manuscripts mostly contained Spanish dishes such as gazpacho, along with Turkish, Greek and above all French food, plus English cakes for teatime. “They used saffron every day, and quail eggs,” Burgos said. “It was not cheap food.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat was especially true during the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz, roughly between 1876 and 1911. He and his cronies feasted on champagne and caviar while Mexico’s poor subsisted on the same corn tortillas that nourished their ancestors. After the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00xhz8d\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexican Revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, however, the new government tried to unify the nation as mestizos. That’s when Josefina Velázquez de León makes an entrance in the UTSA archive. For three decades, she collected recipes from church ladies across the nation, ultimately publishing 150 cookbooks. She helped brand Mexican food as a cuisine of regional specialties ranging from the Yucatan’s \u003Cem\u003Ecochinata pibil\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (citrusy pork shoulder) to Oaxaca’s \u003Cem\u003Emole\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (slow-simmering sauces made of dozens of ingredients, including chocolate).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet it took time before Mexicans really claimed their cuisine. Renowned chef Iliana de la Vega of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.elnaranjorestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEl Naranjo Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Austin, Texas, told me that while growing up in Mexico City in the 1960s, “It was not fancy to receive people at home and serve Mexican food. That was everyday cooking. We would serve only foreign dishes, nothing Mexican at all.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, north of the border, Americans were making a fortune off Mexican food. First, they mass-produced dishes like \u003Cem\u003Echili con \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ecarne\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a stew of beans, meat and chillies) as canned goods; then they corporatised Mexican street food into behemoths like Taco Bell. Never mind that the US had been legislatively antagonising Mexico ever since annexing half its turf in 1848, from trade and immigration policies to the war on drugs. Salsa was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theatlantic.com\u002Fnational\u002Farchive\u002F2013\u002F10\u002Factually-salsa-dethroned-ketchup-20-years-ago\u002F309844\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eraking in more revenue than ketchup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the early 1990s. Even Donald Trump, who pledged to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-37241626\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebuild a border wall and make Mexico pay for it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, once tweeted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-36215048\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrump Tower Grill made the best taco bowls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That is the grand dichotomy of Mexican food, that so many people who cannot stand Mexicans, let alone Mexican migration, do love the cuisine,” said Gustavo Arellano, author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210111-how-mexico-is-reclaiming-spirulina\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Mexico is reclaiming spirulina\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190521-the-surprising-truth-about-caesar-salad\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising truth about Caesar salad\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190529-where-theres-no-queso-in-quesadilla\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere there's no queso in quesadilla\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmericans especially pine for \"authentic\" Mexican food – something Arellano contends does not exist, “except as a money-maker for anyone who uses it”. Restaurants have been touting authenticity since the 1940s, but it became a foodie obsession in 1972 when British ethno-gastronomer Diana Kennedy published The Cuisines of Mexico. Building off de León’s work, this cookbook turned Kennedy into the Julia Child of Mexico and garnered her accolades like Bravo’s Top Chef Master \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rickbayless.com\u002Fabout-rick-bayless\u002Fmeet-rick-bayless\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERick Bayless\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But while Arellano credits Kennedy with convincing Mexico’s elite to finally take pride in their regional cuisine, she was ruthless in her pronouncements, particularly concerning the Tex-Mex dishes of my childhood. (It plays “havoc with your stomach, with your breath, everything,” she once told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.texasmonthly.com\u002Farticles\u002Fla-reina-diana\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETexas Monthly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuch disparagements pained Mexican Americans, who were already struggling over whether or not they were \"sufficiently\" Mexican. Journalist Lesley Téllez told me that while growing up in Los Angeles in the 1980s, “assimilation was what we had to do to survive generations of discrimination. Mexican food was one of the few tangible things that my family took joy in, that was an expression of love and pride that we were not able to share in the wider world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETéllez moved to Mexico City in 2009 to improve her Spanish but became so enamoured by the vibrant food scene that she enrolled in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhagamospais.mx\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEscuela de Gastronomía Mexicana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she studied with chef Yuri de Gortari. She then co-founded a culinary tour company and ran it for a decade. When she sat down to write her own contribution to the UTSA archive, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lesleytellez.com\u002Fbook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEat Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, however, she was riddled with anxiety. “I felt this identity insecurity, like – will they say this recipe is not authentic?” Téllez recalled. “It was like I had Yuri on one shoulder and Diana Kennedy on the other!” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAuthenticity haunts Mexican chefs, too. De la Vega had to defend her credentials when she first opened El Naranjo in her mother’s home state, Oaxaca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In the provincias, they don’t like the \u003Cem\u003Echilangos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [residents of Mexico City]. They said, ‘Why, if she was not born here, why does she come and cook Oaxacan food?’,” de la Vega remembered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe was forced to close her restaurant in 2006 when a teacher’s strike triggered mass unrest. After reopening in Austin she then had to convince Americans that Oaxacan food was legitimately Mexican. A friend teased de la Vega that she would be serving chips and salsa within three months, but “still, I don’t have it!” she laughed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to chefs like de la Vega, Mexican food is finally earning the respect long accorded to European cuisine. In 2015, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Ftraditional-mexican-cuisine-ancestral-ongoing-community-culture-the-michoacan-paradigm-00400\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco declared traditional cooking from Michoacán to be an \"Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Two Mexico City restaurants, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fquintonil.com\u002Fen\u002Frestaurant-quintonil\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuintonil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpujol.com.mx\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPujol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, ranked among the top 15 of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Flist\u002F1-50\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld’s 50 Best Restaurants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019. Internally, Mexico has also started recognising Native contributions to its culinary prowess, with Zapotec chef Abigail Mendoza Ruiz \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fremezcla.com\u002Fculture\u002Fvogue-latin-america-and-mexico-20th-anniversary\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egracing a recent cover of Vogue Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Mexican food is about identity and agency","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMexican American chefs are also achieving gastronomic greatness, thanks in part to the UTSA archive. An especially loyal patron is chef Rico Torres, who combs the collection for ideas for the 10-course tasting menus that he and his partner Diego Galicia recreate from scratch every 45 days at their San Antonio, Texas, restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Frestaurantmixtli.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMixtli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. One menu traced Mayan trade routes via avocado, fish roe and quinoa; another celebrated the state of Jalisco with pork ribs encrusted with \u003Cem\u003Echicharrones\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried pork rinds) and pineapple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Mexican food is about identity and agency,” Torres told me. “It has to show respect for where it came from, who created it and what its origins are.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat has certainly been my own takeaway since my first trip to Mexico a quarter of a century ago. I have now eaten like a queen in half of its 32 states, from duck stuffed with cactus fruit in Guanajuato to \u003Cem\u003Eguisados\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a stew-like taco filling) galore in Querétaro. Yet I still crave the Tex-Mex meals of my childhood – yes, even the ones swathed in Velveeta. First of all, they were made in a former territory of Mexico and thus constitute a regional cuisine in their own right. And second, the chefs were my own family’s matriarchs, who viewed canned food and packaged tortillas not only as a cost-effective way of feeding our families but also as freedom from the kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOur food was Mexican because we were – and nothing is more authentic than that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChiles en Nogada\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (translated)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce fried, the stuffed Chiles can be put onto a plate and be covered with Nogada [sauce].\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe sauce is made by grinding – fresh, well-cleaned and peeled – walnuts and then adding a little bit of pepper, and a bit of vinegar-soaked bread. After all is well grinded, season it with a good vinegar adding fine salt and oil until it becomes a very thick broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENote that the Nogada turns black not too long after you add the salt. For this reason, it would be very good to add the salt right before serving, or not adding it at all and letting each person add it to their taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPour the sauce; it will warm up the Chiles and, once warm, put them on the plate and bathe with seasoned Nogada, optionally topping it with pomegranate to adorn the plate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENogada can be made with any oily substance, like the seeds, almonds and others, but none is as tasty as that with walnut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstephanieelizondogriest.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStephanie Elizondo Griest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is the author of two travel memoirs about Mexico: Mexican Enough and All the Agents and Saints.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-01T21:31:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Does 'authentic' Mexican food exist?","headlineShort":"A 231-year-old handwritten recipe book","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Chicana author Stephanie Elizondo Griest searches through a digitised archive of old Mexican recipes hoping to find the answer to one question: what is 'real' Mexican food?","summaryShort":"The frayed pages reveal thousands of calligraphically recorded recipes","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:55.133916Z","entity":"article","guid":"29d9f8ee-e067-40e5-9296-9f707127b331","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:57.164438Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld","_id":"62df7eb443d9f4583242e610","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Belize's ATM Cave, details of ancient Maya religious sacrifices come into focus as new research creates a picture of how rituals were used to re-enact the Maya creation story.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the eerie red glow of head torches, we could see cracked ceramics lying on the cave's damp, clay floor. Our guide shone a white light across stalactites and stalagmites, illuminating broken stone \u003Cem\u003Emetates –\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tools used by the Maya to grind corn – and large earthenware pots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen the beam caught the sheen of a human skull half-buried in the clay; its front teeth were cracked, and the bone had long-ago crystallised into calcite. This was the Main Chamber of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelbelize.org\u002Fattraction\u002Factun-tunichil-muknal-atm\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EActun Tunichil Muknal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the ATM Cave) in the jungle of western Belize, and to the Maya, this eerie, fascinating cavern was a sacred entrance to Xibalba, the Maya underworld.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 1,000 years, the 5k-long subterranean ATM Cave system lay unlooted and undisturbed. Locals rediscovered the entrance in 1986, and, shortly after, hydrologist and spelunker Thomas Miller found skeletons inside. In the decades that followed, the unusually pristine ATM Cave became the subject of much study, offering scientists and intrepid travellers a glimpse into Maya religion and society from about 700-900 BCE. From research at this and other sites in Belize, archaeologists knew that the Maya ventured deep into caves to connect with their deities in some way, but the specifics of those ceremonies and rituals – and the reasons for them – remained shrouded in mystery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen in 2021, two of the key archaeologists who'd been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.discovermagazine.com\u002Fthe-sciences\u002Fbringing-to-light-mysterious-maya-cave-rituals\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einvolved in ATM Cave excavations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since the 1990s introduced a new methodology for unravelling those mysteries. In their paper – Sacrifice of the Maize God: Re-creating Creation in the Main Chamber of Actun Tunichil Muknal (a chapter of the anthology research book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstor.org\u002Fstable\u002Fj.ctv1z52356?turn_away=true&Search=yes&resultItemClick=true&searchText=Actun+Tunichil+Muknal&searchUri=%2Faction%2FdoBasicSearch%3FQuery%3DActun%2BTunichil%2BMuknal%26so%3Drel&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_search_gsv2%2Fcontrol&refreqid=fastly-default%3A0b1a1cac5efdbf83f9b594999f43ef86\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Myths of the Popol Vuh in Cosmology, Art, and Ritual\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) – Professor Holley Moyes from the University of California and Belizean archaeologist Dr Jaime J Awe explained how they'd been able to build an intricate picture of the religious ceremonies by studying the spatial layout of skeletons and artefacts left behind. They could tell where the Maya stood while the ceremonies unfolded, which mythical stories they re-enacted, which gods the Maya impersonated in rituals and how the unlucky were sacrificed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are no first-hand accounts of what happened in Maya cave ceremonies, but the new theory brings their religious ceremonies to life on a human level that, until now, was not grasped. Moyes and Awe posit that the Maya were staging elaborate, theatrical and deadly re-enactments of the Popol Vuh, the Maya creation myth – and that they were doing it as a way to prompt their gods to force a \"rebirth\" of the world in the period right before drought and political turmoil brought about the end of their civilisation, known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002Fpre-Columbian-civilizations\u002FThe-collapse-of-Classic-Maya-civilization\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Maya Collapse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in the 10th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's probably one of the most important archaeological caves in the world, in terms of its level of preservation and archaeological value. Mainly because it wasn't looted,\" said Moyes. \"And it's such an adventurous cave; just getting there you go through the jungle, you go through the water and you get to experience the path the Maya took to go there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's probably one of the most important archaeological caves in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe 8m-high entrance to ATM Cave is hidden behind tangled vines and thick foliage deep in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.belizehub.com\u002Ftapir-mountain-nature-reserve\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETapir Mountain Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The trailhead is a one-hour drive from San Ignacio, a town close to the Guatemalan border. From here, it's a 45-minute walk through the jungle, and over a series of waist-high and knee-deep river crossings to the entrance. Here, the path ends, and the only way into the ATM Cave is to swim.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Maya would make this journey with burning torches\", said Hector Bol, a guide from the local Maya community, who's been leading tours into the ATM Cave for 18 years. Our small group of five tourists switched on our head torches and left daylight behind as we followed him, wading through the river as it carved a path through the limestone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECaves are integral to the Maya worldview. \"The Maya started using caves around 1200 BCE, when they first started moving into Belize,\" Moyes later told me. She explained that caves were at the bottom of a three-tiered cosmos, with the terrestrial human world above and the gods in the sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we arrived at the Main Chamber, Bol instructed us to remove our shoes. \"You always lose your \u003Cem\u003Esole \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein the Maya underworld,\" he joked. Using his torch as a pointer, he highlighted clay pots balanced on ledges and heavy stone metateslying in calcified pools on the floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen his light picked out the unmistakable outline of that crystallised skull, we were all hushed into silence. Nearly 1,500 objects and fragments have been recorded so far, and 21 human skeletons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Popol Vuh creation myth, two god-like figures known as the Hero Twins journey to the underworld to appease the Lords of Xibalba and challenge them to a ball game. The twins lose and are promptly sacrificed.  Another set of Hero Twins then follow to avenge their father (one of the original Hero Twins), and eventually win. Their avenged father is reborn as the Maize God, from whom all human life is then created, and the Hero Twins punish the Lords of Xibalba, who from then on can only receive offerings that are damaged in some way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvidence within ATM Cave suggests that it's this myth the Maya were re-enacting in a desperate attempt to battle the Lords of Xibalba, just as the Hero Twins did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Maya must have believed that the evil Lords of Xibalba were triumphing in some way during droughts,\" Moyes said, referencing the natural disaster that experts believe contributed to the civilisation's downfall. \"The Lords of Xibalba aren't allowed to have nice things, and almost everything we find in the ATM cave is broken, which makes me think that these must be offerings for underworld deities.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoyes also explained how all of the artefacts in ATM Cave have been dated to right before the Maya Collapse. \"We have super tight radiocarbon dates. We know this happened in a very short period of time,\" she said. \"All of the ceramics in the cave date between 700-900 [CE]. [The Maya]are in full drought conditions by around 820[CE]. By 850[CE], the area is depopulated, so they are coming into the cave at the height of the drought, right before it's abandoned.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen our tour reached the centre of the Main Chamber, Bol highlighted the small Three Stone Hearth, fashioned by the Maya from three speleothems (mineral deposits found in caves) as a clear reference to the three-stone hearth in the Popol Vuh, on which the Maize God was reborn after being sacrificed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There are a number of artefacts, as well as human remains, clustered in the 5m x 5m central area of the Main Chamber surrounding the three stacked speleothems that suggest a literal re-enactment of the Popol Vuh story,\" wrote Moyes and Awe in their research paper. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI saw one such set of human remains in a pool next to the hearth. Moyes and Awe labelled this decapitated skeleton a \"God-Impersonator\" in their paper and theorised that, \"The central location of [the skeleton] adjacent to the Three Stone Hearth feature suggests that the sacrifice was intended to invoke the Maize God and his journey through the watery underworld.\" Metres away, two more sacrificial victims met their end. Based on their position, Moyes and Awe believe that these two must have been playing the role of the first two Hero Twins\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The story of what's happening to the Maya people is a real human story","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding in the centre of the chamber, I could envisage this deadly drama. However, Moyes made it clear that the Maya did not always perform this kind of ritual. \"Amongst the Maya,\" she said, \"we hardly see any – almost no – human sacrifice until the late classic period [the 8th and 9th Centuries CE]. And I think they start doing it because they are in the middle of a drought, and they are trying to up the ante.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, Moyes believes that the Maya world parallels our own. \"The story of what's happening to the Maya people is a real human story,\" she said. \"It's a story that articulates what we are seeing now with climate change. After all, the Maya are simply praying for rain. Here in California, we do the same. We have signs on the highway that literally say 'Pray for Rain'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter treading gently in the haunted footsteps of the Maya, we retrieved our shoes and followed Bol back through the underworld, and out into the blinding sunlight. As Bol grabbed my hand to help me clamber up rocks leading back to the jungle path, he echoed the same sentiment: \"It was religious fervour that brought the Maya into these caves. But when things get desperate, and science fails us, we all start to pray.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-28T10:53:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An eerie portal to the Maya underworld","headlineShort":"An eerie portal to the Maya underworld","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"17.1175008","longitude":"-88.8926607","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Belize's ATM Cave, details of ancient Maya religious sacrifices come into focus as new research creates a picture of how rituals were used to re-enact the Maya creation story.","summaryShort":"New research reveals why the Maya performed human sacrifices","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-27T21:55:57.093312Z","entity":"article","guid":"26ce5dc0-9dee-4d53-b23c-468dd39e05d0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-29T12:58:51.645471Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-an-eerie-portal-to-the-maya-underworld","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","_id":"62df808143d9f45755381499","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Famous for its brilliant seven shades of blue, Lake Bacalar is home to an ancient population of stromatolites that are around 3.5 billion years old.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe beauty of Lake Bacalar, according to Claudio Del Valle, goes deeper than the Mexican lagoon's seven brilliant shades of blue, which range from bright turquoise to deep cobalt. Actually, the local tour guide says, up to 100m deeper – to the limestone bottom of the lake, which is home to the oldest life on the planet. Del Valle says that the most important thing when visiting the long, skinny lake near the Belize border is to leave no trace. He spent years taking groups on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.whatsupbacalar.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estand-up paddle boarding tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before dawn as the sun threw early light over the lagoon and sparkling thalassic hues matured out of the inky night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Thanks to the paddle boarding, I had the chance to explore most of the lagoon… it was so unique, so majestic, so beautiful,\" he said. \"The clarity of the water makes this unique colouration of blue to green; it was delightful just to appreciate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the \"Lake of Seven Colours\" is under grave threat, Del Valle says, which could not only permanently change the colour of the lake but also lead to the destruction of an ancient population of stromatolites, a living fossil that predates humans, dinosaurs and even plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle moved to Bacalar in 2017 following the 7.1-magnitude Puebla earthquake, which left him with post-traumatic stress. On the advice of a psychologist friend, he departed his home of San Cristóbal de las Casas, 700km south-west of Bacalar, in search of a more tranquil environment. He was blown away by what he found. \"It was paradise,\" he said, of seeing Bacalar's lagoon for the first time. \"You couldn't believe the sunrise and the sunset, every one was so unique. But now I can see what is happening… it breaks my heart, it is wrong.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of stromatolites at Laguna Bacalar, Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Bacalar has been moving towards an ecological disaster for the past decade, according to Dr Luisa Falcón, a microbial ecologist at the National Autonomous University of Mexico in Merida. In November 2015, Mexico's federal environmental protection agency issued a pollution alert for the lake. The problem came to a head in June 2020, when Lake Bacalar's rich thalassic hues turned a dull brown. It still has not made a full recovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut if nothing is done, the damage could go far beyond the aesthetics of the brilliantly hued water, Falcón warns. Bacalar is home to the largest freshwater microbialite reef in the world – rock-like structures made by thousands of microbes that precipitate carbonate minerals. \"Bacalar's microbialites have an age range between decades to more than 9,000 years old,\" she said. But it's the microbialite's living fossil counterpart, the stromatolites, that date back to \"approximately 3.5 billion years old\", making Bacalar's population the oldest evidence of life on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stromatolites resemble cauliflower – big, pillowy beige structures that grow upwards from the lagoon's limestone bottom of the lake. They look like rocks, but they are actually living things. The sediment layers itself millimetre by millimetre, with the aid of photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria, until the structures turn into a rocky underwater growth that can be seen on the surface of shallow water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe animal resistant to cancer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200129-how-climate-change-poisons-our-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow climate change poisons our food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cauliflower-like stromatolites only still exist in a few locations globally – and Bacalar's population reveal history frozen in time, such as the temperature or the geochemical composition of the water millions of years ago. That's because they actually preserve the physicochemical conditions of the water in their incredibly slow sedimentation process. Crucially, stromatolites also help recycle elements. The microbes that make up a stromatolite take carbon from the CO2 in the air and put it into the lake floor's carbonate to store it. Like trees, their above-water counterpart, stromatolites actively improve our environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the problem facing stromatolites is two-fold, Falcón said. The lake is fed by a 450km underground river that is part of the world's largest water cave and tunnel system along the Yucatan Peninsula. This is actually good for stromatolites – the carbonate rock of the tunnels is thought to make them grow larger than normal, pillowing out on the surface of the lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stomatolites floating in Lake Bacalar, Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut karstic environments, where groundwater flows through fractures and cave systems interconnect water bodies, also leave the stromatolites more vulnerable to upstream change. And deforestation of the rainforest upstream from the lagoon has increased \"exponentially\" in the last decade due to unsustainable agricultural practices, says Falcón. That has led to a rise in sediments, pesticides and fertilisers making their way into the water during the rainy season. High levels of nitrogen and ammonium are being recorded in the lagoon, especially near the town. The makeup of the water is changing – and algae and molluscs are multiplying at a rapid rate. So far, no research has demonstrated that microbialite communities can recover from environmental damage in the short term.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe local tourism industry has played a role in Bacalar's degradation. \"Bacalar as a tourist destination has received increased attention but is without the necessary urban planning, including sufficient sewage treatment and sanitary facilities.\" A study Falcón co-authored found high amounts of Firmicutes, a bacteria found in the human intestine, in the lagoon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, De Valle says a roaring tourism industry on the lake, including boats, kayaks, jet skis, anchors, fin kicks and even people standing at the lagoon's edge, is seeing the surface of stromatolites broken. When their surface is punctured, they die, just like coral reefs. \"There are plenty of hostels, hotels, Airbnbs, many don't care about the stromatolites and the mangroves that allow the natural resources of the lagoon to regenerate,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a way, Del Valle says, as a former tour guide, he was part of the problem. Bacalar, just south of Quintana Roo's popular tourist spots Cancun, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, was attracting close to 100,000 tourists a season in recent years. And local operators have cashed in. \"We were making advertisements and publicity to make that place more famous and popular, knowing that it doesn't have the infrastructure, the plans, the project, to protect the lagoon,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Drone photo of Bacalar Lagoon with brown and green-hued water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocal researcher and biologist Silvana Ibarra, member of the Citizen and Scientific Council for the Restoration and Preservation of the Bacalar Aquifer and Lagoon System, agrees. \"The growth of tourists in Bacalar is 600% in three years and the hosts are not prepared: they do not accept the carrying capacity of the ecosystem,\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut slowed tourist activity in the past 12 months has given the 42km-long expanse of lake a chance to recover. \"These problems started a decade ago and worsened two years ago, but the improvement during the pandemic was shown in that we again saw animals such as the river otter,\" Ibarra said. This slowed tourism activity has also seen the lagoon's colours stirring back to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith more sustainable tourism, Lake Bacalar can continue its recovery and restore its reputation as the \"Lake of Seven Colours\". And there are several easy ways for travellers to do this, Ibarra said. She advises never to touch, step or sit on the stromatolites in the lagoon. She says visitors should enter the lagoon barefoot, and never while wearing sunscreen or makeup, as both can bleach the stromatolites. More broadly, she said, \"stay in eco-friendly hotels, and very, very importantly: reduce your waste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With more sustainable tourism, Lake Bacalar can continue its recovery and restore its reputation as the \"Lake of Seven Colours\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Come knowing that it is a fragile natural sanctuary that must be treated with care,\" she said. \"It is important to protect the lagoon and especially to adapt to the territory, because otherwise, its beauty and natural services will be lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, before travel returns to pre-pandemic levels, Del Valle says it is up to the local tourism operators to save the crystalline lagoon – the largest in the Yucatan Peninsula. Del Valle has approached many of the operators surrounding the lagoon to help make their tourism offerings more sustainable. \"The locals, they own all the motorboats in the lagoon, they are in the hundreds. I have talked several times with many of them to persuade them,\" he said. \"I offered them, for free, to train them to do paddle tours, to do sailing tours, things that don't affect the lagoon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People kayaking down the the Bacalar rapids in Mexico","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"Hopefully when the time is right, there's going to be a change in society, and with that the most important thing, which is nature, will start to recover,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThinking back to his first impressions of the then-glorious Lake Bacalar, at a time when he was struggling with his own trauma, Del Valle pauses. \"It really started to make me well [again],\" he said. In a way, he continued, the now-threatened lagoon was a catalyst for his own healing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was the first time in my adult life that I was having this feeling of belonging to a ‘thing'.\" Hopefully, with a little help, he added, Mexico's lake of seven colours will heal too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-02T21:57:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Mexico's three-billion-year-old underwater lifeforms","headlineShort":"A lake with the oldest evidence of life","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"18.7671","longitude":"88.3069","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mangrove island and emerald water in the Bacalar Lagoon, Mexico","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Famous for its brilliant seven shades of blue, Lake Bacalar is home to an ancient population of stromatolites that are around 3.5 billion years old.","summaryShort":"It is home to the oldest life on the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-01T22:02:15.710333Z","entity":"article","guid":"147c323c-b3b0-4e03-89bc-5eee1260e1a5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:50.610782Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210801-mexicos-three-billion-year-old-underwater-lifeforms","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","_id":"62df7ef043d9f46d9f1d0367","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri"],"bodyIntro":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are two immediate signs that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the coast of Devon in South West England, isn't your usual seaside village. The first is that the only access is through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fclovelly-visitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which charges £8.50 per adult for entrance (£4.95 for children). The second is the sledges. They stand at attention at the top of the cobbled walk that runs through the town's steep lanes of cottages and down to Clovelly's harbour, 120m below, ready for the next time a resident comes back from the shops and needs to lug their purchases home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey might seem out of place to a first-time visitor. But both the visitor centre, opened in 1988, and the sledges, which largely replaced donkeys by the 1970s, are ways in which this 1,000-year-old community has adapted to modern times – while still preserving the rhythms of the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven today, there are no cars in Clovelly. (It would be too steep for them to get access even if the town wanted them.) There are no chain stores, no traffic noises, no light pollution. Instead, there are cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages, small boats bobbing in the 14th-Century stone quay, fat bees and butterflies feeding on flowers, and, almost everywhere, the sound, smells and sight of the Atlantic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moving to a teeny tiny cottage on the edge of a cliff was something I never imagined,\" said Ellie Jarvis, who came from London to Clovelly for six months in 2007 to help run her family's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovellysilk.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esilk workshop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and never left. \"But what is so beautiful and unique about Clovelly is not only the cobbles and all the obvious things that you see as a tourist. It's the fact that you're living with the past.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that past extends a long way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5bz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th Century, when it was listed in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalarchives.gov.uk\u002Fdomesday\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDomesday Book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's earliest public record, Clovelly was owned by William the Conqueror himself. The king later gave the village to his wife \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.newworldencyclopedia.org\u002Fentry\u002FMatilda_of_Flanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMatilda of Flanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's first crowned queen. It still retains a quaint, yesteryear feel – a big part of why it was a main location for the films Sense & Sensibility (2008) and The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society (2018); and why, over the centuries, the village has inspired artists and writers from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20140915-how-turner-set-painting-free\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJMW Turner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to Charles Dickens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFew have seen Clovelly as more of a muse than the 19th-Century novelist and poet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fbiography\u002FCharles-Kingsley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECharles Kingsley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, however, who lived here as a child. \"Now that you have seen the dear old Paradise you know what was the inspiration of my life before I met you,\" he wrote to his wife after her first visit in 1854.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5r3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's true that there are, of course, other picturesque, historical fishing villages in the area without entrance fees. But what appears authentic on first sight can collapse at a closer look. Many idyllic spots have been hollowed out by holiday lets\u003Cstrong\u003E,\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E leaving them bursting with tourists in summer and emptied out in the off season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Clovelly, where some 300 people live in the village's 83 cottages, the experience is the reverse. Get past the visitor centre and its souvenir shop, and there is a real – and vibrant – group of residents behind it all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is an actual community that lives here,\" said Cass Mcfarlane, who moved here in autumn 2021 from London and runs a sweet shop in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fkingsley-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKingsley Cottage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small museum devoted to the writer. \"And it's an active, bubbly community, from all ages and walks of life. There's always someone to see and talk to.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5yw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough I'd been to the village before, I first saw this for myself in the run up to Christmas. Everyone in my own town, 15 miles south of Clovelly, had been asking if we were going to see Clovelly's Christmas lights. When we arrived, the lanes were even more packed than they had been at the height of the summer tourist season. A band of local schoolchildren played Christmas carols; people greeted one another on the cobbled streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Very often a visitor would possibly make, I think, the mistake of thinking that it was a sleepy village. And it really isn't,\" said Jarvis. \"There's a lot going on.\" Festivals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fevents\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eevents\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, theatre. At the same time, she added, \"There's a more gentle way of life here. I'm forever telling my children that there's always someone watching them. They cannot misbehave – there's always an audience.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb62y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat tight-knit, dynamic aspect of Clovelly's community has been nurtured by design, according to the owner of Clovelly, Hon. John Rous. \"It was always important to me that Clovelly should remain a living village,\" he said when we met at his estate office, a jumble of pleasant stone buildings in the shadow of Clovelly's 12th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclovellyparish.org.uk\u002Fparish-organisations-and-contacts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAll Saints church\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I didn't want to go down the holiday lets line. I didn't want to go down even a timeshare basis.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow 71, Rous inherited the village from his mother, a countess, in 1983. This is the other reason Clovelly is unusual: it is one of the UK's only privately owned villages. Not only that, but the Rous family is only the third family to own it since the 1200s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb64k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the heyday of aristocracy, this was common. A landowning family would not only employ people to work their farms, but lease them homes and shops, too. But in the same way that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-30004491\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eso many of the grand houses of yesteryear had to be given up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so too did the villages. It was no different at Clovelly, where, by the 1980s, Rous' family had been selling off parts of the estate – which spreads over 2,000 acres of North Devon – to be able to finance the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a very difficult time. There was not much income being generated from the estate – a little bit of tourism income,\" Rous said. \"I thought, I don't really want to get involved in a sort of managed decline. We've got to try and stop the rot and be self-financing. And so, I realised that we needed to make some major investment in tourism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis meant building the visitor centre and, for the first time, charging an entrance fee to the village, rather than a car park charge. To his surprise, visitor numbers went up, not down. (Today, there are about 150,000 a year.) Still, the move was viewed with scepticism. Even now, more than 30 years later, a quick look on Tripadvisor shows that plenty of visitors remain irritated about having to pay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut that income has kept Clovelly intact, Rous said. And it has allowed for a programme of renovation of the cottages, some of which date to at least the 15th Century – and all of which are subject to the wet, wild, windy weather that this part of the English coastline is known for, with all of its upkeep challenges, from mould to damaged roofs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb658"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe tourism income has also allowed Clovelly to maintain an unusual policy for this part of the world: there are no second homes or absentee landlords allowed. (Rous, the only landlord, lives on the estate himself, in Clovelly Manor; while the original manor burned down in 1943 in World War Two, its walled gardens, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fseeing-clovelly\u002Fclovelly-court-gardens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly Court Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, survived intact and are included in the visitor fee.) As a condition of their tenancy, residents are required to live here full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor longer-term residents like Jarvis, that meant having to change houses several times as her family expanded. Her two boys, aged nine and 13, have grown up here. There are certain days of the year where multiple households move at once in a kind of game of musical chairs, but with sledges instead of moving vans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpeaking of the sledges, residents say that these are not just quirks. They are an integral part of Clovelly life. Everybody has their own, which they keep at the top of the village. When locals order groceries, the delivery vans know, on seeing \"Clovelly\" on the address, to give a 15-minute heads up before they arrive so the customer has time to trudge to the top of the village and get their sledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is no secret way of getting things down,\" said Mcfarlane. \"This morning, I saw a gentleman with a new washing machine and a new cooker. Last year, a grand piano came down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb669"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany residents see it as a small price to pay for the privilege of living in such an idyllic spot. At high tide, Jarvis' boys can jump from their kitchen door straight into the sea. Other residents agree that the inconveniences are worth it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Once you've made your mind up, the transition from gas and central heating to putting logs and coal on your sledge and letting gravity bring it down, and chopping wood and making the Raven [wood stove], it just feels right,\" said Dave Francis, who moved to Clovelly in 2020 and runs the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdonkeyshoeshop.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDonkey Shoe Shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his wife, Jakki. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's easy for visitors to forget, the Clovelly estate is far more than the village. It includes 700 acres of woodland, three large farms, the working harbour, gardens and even a sawmill. Some 80 employees keep it all going. That all brings challenges – from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.act.gov.au\u002Fact-nrm\u002Fbiodiversity\u002Fbiodiversity-investment-plan\u002Fclimate-change-adaptation\u002Fdieback\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edieback\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the woodlands to garden upgrades to the unending upkeep of the cottages. (\"The nasty thing about that is that you could spend loads and loads of money and hardly notice a difference,\" Rous remarked, especially since the restorations are done with historical sensitivity, such as reroofing in stone or slate instead of cheaper materials.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb66r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the challenges, Rous, who speaks with passion about every aspect of running the estate, continues to look forwards. He wants to encourage Clovelly's burgeoning crafting industry (together with silk-maker Jarvis, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclovellysoapcompany.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoap-maker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fcraft-workshops\u002Fclovelly-pottery\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epotter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also have workshops here), as well as the village's historical links to fishing and the sea. He's even thinking about introducing small-scale oyster farming in the bay. \"We've got to continually evolve and adapt to changing circumstances,\" he said, even while preserving the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Jarvis and others, when it comes to finding this balance, Clovelly succeeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It isn't an easy way of life; it isn't straightforward. You can't compare living here to anywhere else,\" Jarvis said. \"But you just fall in love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think you live here with all of your heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-22T10:19:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The village once owned by England's first queen","headlineShort":"The UK village that you pay to enter","image":["p0cg9tnk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.9981","longitude":"-4.3991","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cg9tnk"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","summaryShort":"It was once owned by William the Conqueror himself","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fheritage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-21T23:38:15.957254Z","entity":"article","guid":"844a17ab-1c22-42b7-9760-a2061721800e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-22T15:11:21.884081Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078297},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","_id":"62df80da43d9f402f7576e8e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement,\" said famed French chef Alain Ducasse, taking a sip of crimson-hued sparkling wine, surrounded by the empty wooden tables of his Paris restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.auxlyonnais.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAux Lyonnais\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It was a warm day in March 2021. A soft breeze floated into the restaurant through the takeaway window, sunbeams illuminating the empty burgundy leather booths. The maitre d', dressed in a suit, glided between the kitchen and the curb, brown paper bags brimming with plant-based fare ready to hand off for delivery. The crinkling of the bags in motion was the loudest sound in the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThings are different now. After months of lockdown measures, curfews and restaurant closures, Paris is slowly beginning to resemble its former self. The packed tables of cafe terrasses spill off pavements and onto boulevards, waiters once again balancing glasses of rosé on silver platters and cigarette smoke lingering in a never-fading cloud. The chirping birds along the Boulevard Saint-Germain have been replaced by the constant drone of revving engines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Chef Alain Ducasse sitting at a table at his Paris restaurant Aux Lyonnais","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Ducasse – currently the world's most Michelin-starred chef and emblematic figure of French gastronomy, often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine – gastronomy had been quietly evolving behind the doors of shuttered kitchens during the pandemic's darkest days. He says Covid-19 accelerated the next \"re-evolution\" of French gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn March 2020, the order to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-51892477\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshut down restaurants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to the pandemic sent chefs into a tailspin. After getting the news on a Saturday evening with a room full of diners, Ducasse learned he would need to close at midnight, without any foresight as to when they might reopen. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We lost a lot of merchandise, and gave a lot of merchandise to employees,\" he said. \"It was too fast.\" France's dining scene ground to a halt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse took a sip of wine. Behind him, an antique clock sat atop a mirror in the back corner of the restaurant. It was stuck on 06:43. He put a paper napkin on his lap. \"The French are very strongly rooted in tradition,\" he said, laying out bamboo cutlery with concentration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty Avenue des Champs Elysees and Place Charles de Gaulle during Coronavirus lockdown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Unesco inscribed the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fgastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egastronomic meal of the French\u003C\u002Fa\u003E onto its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, permanently enshrining the French meal under its protection. However, the designation isn't just about the food. It emphasises all the traditional elements that comprise a gastronomic meal in France, from the notion of conviviality – the idea of gathering together in a warm-hearted atmosphere – to the thoughtful selection of high-quality local produce. Other elements in the designation include table setting, food and wine pairings and a fixed meal structure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe designation underscores the importance of dining as a process, which has even been enshrined into French law: until the pandemic, for example, it had been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp096gb9c\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eillegal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for employees in France to eat lunch at their desks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFast-forward to 2020 amid continued restaurant closures, where delivery drivers sped down deserted Parisian streets, shuttling Michelin-starred cuisine ready to be plated up against the backdrop of the latest Netflix series.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Ducasse didn't see this pandemic shift as a threat to French gastronomy. It was an opportunity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom,\" he said. In France, such progressions aren't new. The last momentous evolution of French food – Nouvelle Cuisine, spearheaded by Paul Bocuse in the 1970s – was in large part driven by the desire by chefs to create cuisine for which they themselves would be recognised, breaking from traditional dishes to make lighter, healthier and hyper-personalised dishes that challenged some of the rules of classic French cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet the traditional ritual around the meal remained rigid. A mere few years ago, the topic of the \"doggy-bag\" – bringing leftover food home from a restaurant – sparked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2014\u002F11\u002F14\u002Fworld\u002Feurope\u002Fbrushing-off-a-french-stigma-that-doggie-bags-are-for-beggars-.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now, it's mandatory for restaurants to provide takeaway materials to diners in an effort to cut food waste, prompting the Ministry of Agriculture to rebrand the practice as the sexier\"gourmet bag\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Short: Delivery person wearing a protective mask riding bike near Jardin des Tuileries in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDucasse is not a figure that one would traditionally associate with takeaway, paper napkins or cheap food. But in April 2020, Ducasse, who had never offered a takeaway or delivery service before – or even considered it – launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-chezmoi.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDucasse Chez Moi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an online delivery platform featuring a selection of dishes from his Paris restaurants including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-champeaux.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChampeaux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spoon-restaurant.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As part of the shift, he also launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.naturaliste-paris.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENaturaliste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an inexpensive, plant-forward delivery and takeaway restaurant in the kitchen of Aux Lyonnais, behind its shuttered dining room. Essentially, a ghost kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We would have never dared to do it if we didn't have to. It was an opportunity. Restaurants were closed, so we said we're going to try food differently,\" he explained. \"It would be accessible; a food that we could deliver, and a food specially edited for delivery.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I spoke with Ducasse in March, he didn't seem fazed by the transition to delivery. He was sitting up straight in his wooden chair, gesticulating with enthusiasm as he talked about his ideas for the future. The maitre d' was busy greeting customers at the takeaway window, taking orders for Naturaliste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ducasse, Covid-19 sped up France's next gastronomical evolution, which he says is marked by a profound desire for human contact, an interplay between global influence and local produce, the growing role of plant-based cuisine and a rapidly evolving consumer. \"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them,\" he said. \"You have to take them on a journey.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of takeaway container with braised spring vegetables from Naturaliste in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaryann Tebben, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FS\u002Fbo70563942.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESavoir-Faire: A History of Food in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eexpands on the notion of a changing consumer, reflecting on how \"they hear about it, they're reading about it, they're careful about the ecological footprint that they have, and they're more savvy than their parents or grandparents were about what food does for the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I think of French cuisine, plant-based cooking isn't the first thing that comes to mind. I think of meat, of Toulouse sausage, foie gras and calf brains. But, Ducasse points out, the growing emphasis on plant-based dishes didn't happen overnight; in recent years, vegetable-forward menus have been growing in the nation's top kitchens. And at Ducasse's restaurants, this focus goes back even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1987, he introduced plant-based menu Jardins de Provence to his three-Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-paris.com\u002Fen\u002Faddresses\u002Flouis-xv-alain-ducasse-hotel-paris\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Louis XV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Monaco. Now, \"30-40% of clients choose this 100% vegetarian menu,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200520-rice-pudding-a-simple-french-dish-made-from-pantry-staples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA simple French dish made from pantry staples\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191120-anne-sophie-pic-the-chef-who-rules-france\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnne-Sophie Pic: the chef who rules France\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Basque cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatrick Rambourg, a researcher specialising in French gastronomy and the author of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpatrickrambourg.unblog.fr\u002F2012\u002F07\u002F16\u002Fhistoire-de-la-cuisine-et-de-la-gastronomie-francaises\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie françaises\u003C\u002Fa\u003E(History of French cuisine and gastronomy),has also been observing the transition to more sustainable cuisine in recent years. He agrees that France is in the midst of its next culinary evolution; and in his view, it wasn't catalysed by the pandemic. Instead, the movement has been slow and profound, he believes, growing due to an interplay between changing consumer demands and the eagerness of chefs to embrace the challenge of transforming vegetables into the star of a dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The chefs are aware of a changing consumer that cares about where products come from. There are also people that want to eat high-end cuisine, gastronomy, but don't want to eat something unhealthy,\" he said. \"There's a change in consciousness around cuisine. Kitchens don't have a choice but to adapt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever it has come about, Ducasse is embracing the shift toward sustainable, vegetable-forward cuisine. In September, Naturaliste will transform into Sapid, a more permanent plant-based restaurant centred around conviviality on Rue Paradis in Paris's 10th arrondissement. It will feature a refectory-setup with communal tables, encouraging the social contact that people lacked during the past year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People dining outside at cafe and restaurant terraces along Paris's Seine river at dusk","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack at Aux Lyonnais, the maitre d' reappeared and placed two cardboard boxes on the table. I peeked inside. The dishes – roasted cabbage with avocado and smoked eel, and braised seasonal vegetables with sauteed mushrooms and quinoa – were the creations of young Peruvian chef Marvic Medina Matos, who has worked in the kitchens of three Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-plazaathenee.com\u002Ffr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-meurice.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Meurice Alain Ducasse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer dishes emphasise local produce and sustainability. \"We work with respect to the seasons, and our menu changes according to the season,\" she told me. \"I love putting the producers and ingredients forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse frames this next re-evolution of French cuisine as \"local in production, global in the vision\" with careful attention to the quality of ingredients, recalling Unesco's insistence on \"the balance between human beings and the products of nature\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHuman beings, however, are not as malleable as farm-grown asparagus or the country's hundreds of varieties of cheese. Evolution is shaped as much by resistance as by change, and some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFrance's cultural rituals have endured wars and revolutions. Ultimately, amid a year of stay-at-home orders and delivery-bound gastronomy, have the French changed their habits?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse looked down at his glass. \"They've kept the bad habits,\" he said with a grin, taking another sip of sparkling wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-23T15:13:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","headlineShort":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.8707445","longitude":"2.3365293","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","summaryShort":"The French revolution that has chefs sharpening their knives","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-22T15:57:15.170243Z","entity":"article","guid":"e50b0403-a879-455f-8d47-3ab2121c48b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T03:29:04.195102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","_id":"62df7f0143d9f45749671c5d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to know just how attached the people of the coastal town of Menton are to their beloved lemon, look no further than the legend that credits its arrival on the French Riviera to Eve. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExpelled from the garden of Eden, the story goes, Eve plucked a lemon to take with her on the journey. Adam, fearing eternal condemnation, begged her to throw it away, which she obliged to do only in a spot of her choosing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd thus, she found Menton, situated on the gleaming Bay of Garavan where the Alps rescind from the water just enough to create slopes with an east-west alignment – the perfect conditions for cultivating lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the legend itself is impossible to authenticate, the symbolism of the paradisiacal lemon is embedded in the folklore of this seaside town of about 30,000 inhabitants, where the bus line is called \"Zeste\" and a lemon motif seems the logical choice for many local businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town swells to nearly double its size during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fete-du-citron.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFête du Citron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival held in February celebrating the history and culture of citrus growing in the region, most notably of the Menton lemon, an officially recognised species that differs from Corsican, Spanish or Italian varieties in terms of its mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe allure of the festival lies in its floats and sculptures, each with more than three tonnes of lemons and oranges rubber-banded to a wire framework shaped to match the year's theme. The Fête du Citron stands apart from other Carnival events in France in that municipal workers who spend most of the year maintaining city buildings are also the ones who prepare the floats and sculptures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETitled Operas and Dances, the 2022 edition marked a triumphant return for the festival after it was cancelled midway through in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. The Sunday parade was a jubilee of blaring marching bands, vibrant performers and six floats covered in lemons and oranges, some as tall as 10m, sculpted to represent the Samba, Can-can, Haka, Matachines, Salsa and Kathakali dance styles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs French cuisine forever changed?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the floats, performers in costume worked alongside smiling city employees in neon-green safety vests to shower a seemingly infinite amount of confetti on the 15,000 spectators, whose outstretched arms made it clear they couldn't get enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the party raged on in the valley, the terraced hillsides overlooking the town harboured a harsher reality: Menton was once the leading lemon-growing region in all of Europe, but today, only about 15 producers remain. All the fruit for the Fête du Citron's sculptures and floats must be imported from Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The annual production of Menton lemons is between 100 and 120 tonnes. In this period, we need between 150 and 180 tonnes of lemons and oranges. So, the production of Menton lemons wouldn't be enough to create the whole of the Fête du Citron,\" said Christophe Ghiena, the city's director of technical services, who added that the remaining citrus is sold at discounted prices after the festival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from its Biblical legend, the documented story of the Menton lemon's rise and fall began with its arrival from Spain in the 15th Century. The fruit quickly adapted to Menton's temperate microclimate created by the unique combination of a protective mountain range and proximity to the ocean. By the end of the 18th Century, the region was estimated to produce one million lemons annually, said David Rousseau, director of Menton's heritage department.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, the lemon was really the fortune of the city of Menton. Lemons were exported all the way to the United States, to Russia. It was a production of global scale,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a production of global scale","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon's decline began at the end of the French Revolution, when laws that had protected it against competition from other lemon-producing regions were lifted. The second blow came in the 19th Century, when the arrival of British winter tourists prompted the construction of hotels and villas on land used for citrus terraces. Finally, in the 1950s, an unusual cold snap spelled the Menton lemon's demise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was a big freeze in Menton and in France, which killed the remaining lemon trees,\" Rousseau said. \"It was in the 1980s that the lemon began to come back thanks to several producers who saw the lemon had potential and relaunched its production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such grower is Laurent Gannac. Originally from the southwest of France, Gannac arrived in Menton in 1988 to work as a landscaper. He said that every time he brought lemon trees to clients in the area, he'd get the same question: Is this a \u003Cem\u003EMenton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lemon?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had scientific, agricultural training and I'd never even heard of a Menton lemon,\" he said. \"So, I'd say to them 'Well, I brought it from Menton so I guess it's a Menton lemon if you want.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe soon became curious about the species and, in 1991, he planted his first Menton lemon tree. At the time, the few remaining producers questioned why a young person would be interested in a seemingly bygone product, Gannac said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gannac and his son own 750 trees on 2.5 hectares of land with the goal of reaching 1,000 trees in the next three years. Although his operation pales in comparison to the output of producers in Spain or Italy, Gannac is proud to call himself the first person in recent years to live entirely off the Menton lemon. Yet, he is one of very few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To plant 400 trees here means to start with a site that's completely abandoned, clear it, level the terraces, create irrigation reservoirs and fence it to protect from wild boars,\" he said. \"It's a lot of work, especially when you consider it takes eight years to recoup the investment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, Gannac says he believes the tide is changing, thanks in large part to an effort by local officials, growers and other stakeholders to achieve the European Union's Protected Geographical Indication for the Menton lemon, which it received in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he had been cultivating the Menton lemon for nearly two decades at the time, it was during this process that Gannac was confronted with the uniqueness of the species during a visit to France's National Institute for Agricultural Research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always thought the Mentonnais were a little biased about their lemon,\" he said. \"When I had the chance to go from tree to tree and taste each lemon, I realised that the real Menton lemon is actually different from others in its scent, sweetness and peel that is so mild it can be eaten.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon has also been praised for its thick skin and high essential oil content which makes it a favourite of well-known chefs like Mauro Colagreco at the helm of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirazur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMirazur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Menton restaurant ranked number one in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-awards\u002F2019\u002F6\u002F25\u002F18714984\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's 50 Best in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Menton lemon is a very rare product. It has a different flavour and texture from the lemons you find elsewhere and can even be eaten directly from the tree (as a fruit). In our five gardens, we want to keep this exceptional variety. Each year we plant new trees to perpetuate the culture,\" Colagreco said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen in season, the chef uses the fruit in dishes like a Menton lemon tart or a \u003Cem\u003Etourbillon \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(swirl) of fish larvae with Menton lemon and chives. He also produces a lemon confit to \"remember the flavour all year long\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EColagreco is not the only chef who has become an ambassador of the species. Luisa Delpiano-Inversi is the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pastapiemonte.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Piemonte\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Menton-based pasta producer that opened in 2013. Shortly thereafter, Delpiano-Inversi found success with her Menton lemon ravioli, an unexpected combination that she now ships across France for those who live far from the Riviera to experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This lemon resembles no other,\" she wrote in her 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.apple.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the topic. \"Its juice is intensely fragrant with a semi-acidic flavour and no bitterness.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGannac said he remembers a time when the Menton lemon was little more than a pretext used to draw in tourists during the Fête du Citron, which began in 1934. As French consumers become increasingly interested in local products, Gannac now credits the Fête with giving him an opportunity to meet his customers and speak about the uniqueness of his fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERousseau agrees that the recent editions of the Fête du Citron have helped bring more awareness to the Menton lemon. Many of this year's guided tours of lemon terraces were sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before. Before they came mostly to see the sculptures and attend the parade,\" he said. \"Today, they really wish to discover the city and not just come to see the floats.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the most promising result of the local effort to revitalise the species can be found in the enthusiasm of the next generation of lemon growers, among them Laetita Sepicacchi, a Menton native who began cultivating her family's property in 2015 in collaboration with the city's initiative to plant more trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, Sepicacchi was working in Paris and often travelled home to Menton to rest and recharge. It was during one of these visits that she realised the terraces of the former vineyard were the perfect place to continue the tradition of lemon cultivation. While she waits for her 35 young trees to reach maturity, Sepicacchi harvests about 100kg of fruit per year from three older trees. She sells her lemons to individuals and French and European grocers, although some of her clients have also been reputable perfume producers interested in the essential oils of her lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project allows me to rediscover and transmit a cultural heritage,\" she said. \"It's as if the roots of the trees are grounded in a heritage and an identity at a time when the world is steeped in virtual culture, which can sometimes be materialistic and individualistic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sepicacchi reflects on her ultimate goal to cultivate the Menton lemon, she imagines a day when lemon trees can once again define the local landscape and support the town's economy, maybe even resembling the French poet Stéphen Liégeard's 1887 description: \"little valleys that leave to the breeze the care to shake passers-by, the heady smell of lemon trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-29T14:20:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of France's lost lemon","headlineShort":"How a French town lost its lemons","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7960375","longitude":"7.4636967","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","summaryShort":"Sadly, all its fruit must be imported from Spain","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T14:22:42.099931Z","entity":"article","guid":"abb3da5b-bea2-4a48-b080-e9b5e8891c25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:41:49.702209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","_id":"62df80f743d9f4573d6a6835","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Scarlette Le Corre edges slowly through the sun-blazed shallows at low tide, emerald sea lettuce and ginger sea spaghetti kaleidoscope around her rubber boots like two-tone marbling ink. No step is taken without first scrutinising the marine life at her feet – this highly trained eye doesn't miss a subaqueous beat. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A head of rock-clinging sea lettuce unveiled by the ebbing ocean is deftly cut off and popped in her bucket of water. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A fistful of coarse red dulse and clumps of green hairy \u003Cem\u003Echeveux de mer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grass kelp) – which sea-vegetable gourmets in France simply rinse, twirl in olive oil and eat – get the chop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nature is generous and gives us many riches,\" said Le Corre. \"I've eaten seaweed for 35 years and am in good form – eat algae and life is \u003Cem\u003Etrès très belle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDisarmingly petite and passionate, with a tendency not to mince her words, Le Corre is the original female French fisher. Back in 1979 she was one of the nation's first women to pass her \u003Cem\u003EBrevet de mécanicien à la pêche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, qualifying her to captain a saltwater fishing boat, and has since spent four decades working tirelessly in a masculine industry where women at sea are traditionally believed to bring bad luck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer day begins at 04.30 in Le Guilvinec, a salt-of-the-earth fishing port in Finistère, southern Brittany – the sort of place where street graffiti reads \u003Cem\u003E\"plus de pêcheurs, moins de supermarchés\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (more fishermen, less supermarkets) and the menfolk spend two weeks at sea working the town's 43-strong fleet of deep-sea trawlers. By 06:00, Le Corre is alone at sea in her 1950s orange-and-white boat called \u003Cem\u003EMon Copain \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(My Boyfriend), tending her cultivated sea fields of wakame garlands or casting her nets for sole, red mullet and the occasional lobster or octopus to sell at morning markets in Le Guilvinec and neighbouring Penmarc'h. Afternoons are spent gathering seaweed on the seashore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's no room for failure in a profession considered only for men,\" Le Corre told me, as we scrambled lithely across wet, slimy rocks together. \"As a woman in a man's world, I don't ask men for help – I assume complete responsibility to the very end.\" Mention retirement to this feisty grandmother and her pace only quickens. Her secret? \"A slice of bread or toast each morning with \u003Cem\u003Etartare d'algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made from raw seaweeds, olive oil, colza oil and rock samphire vinegar,\" she explained proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre holding strands of kombu in cooking workshop","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sea lettuce, dulse and nori Le Corre forages to make the tangy, strong-tasting spread is organic and fresh off the rocks around Pointe de la Men Meur in Le Guilvinec. Long ago historians identified this flat granite headland, pocketed with bizarre lunar-like sinkholes, as the site of a quarry where millstones were dug out in the Middle Ages, and later, until the 17th Century, round stone bases for the many roadside crosses peppering this Celtic region in north-west France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial. The daughter of a fisherman, Le Corre began working with seaweed to supplement her fishing income in the early 1990s – long before the ugly-but-edible sea vegetable became \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea fashionable \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Algaculture is a centuries-old living Breton tradition she simply grew up with. \"I have collected seaweed from the moment I could walk. My parents went, and I followed,\" she said. In April alone, at the height of the wild seaweed season, Le Corre typically gathers 10 tonnes of thongweed (sea spaghetti), Breton kombu and royal kombu along the rocky seashore – all by hand with a knife and scissors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPowerful memorabilia at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecomusee-plouguerneau.fr\u002F\"\u003EÉcomusée des Goémoniers et de l'Algue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Museum of Seaweed Harvesters and Seaweed) in the village of Plouguerneau, further along the coast in Pays des Abers, tells the Breton algaculture tale. Black-and-white photographs show 19th-Century \u003Cem\u003Egoémoniers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed harvesters) raking kelp – the generic name for brown drift weeds – washed ashore on sandy Breton beaches and piling it onto horse-drawn wagons with pitchforks. Antiquarian prints depict them carting the kelp off to nearby sand dunes to dry and burn it for several days in open-air ovens. The stench of acrid smoke was vile, but the valuable iodine-rich ash could be sold to iodine factories on the northern coast for glass making. Remaining cinders were scattered on farmland as fertiliser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther harvesters worked out at sea from flat-bottomed wooden boats, using long-handled sickles to guillotine strands of weed growing in wild underwater kelp forests near the shore and around offshore islands: 25 tonnes of cut kelp produced 1 tonne of ash or 15kg of iodine. Harvesting was strictly seasonal (March to September) and everyone had a second occupation – fishing or farming – to ensure a year-round income.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210613-why-the-french-rarely-say-i-love-you\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy it's hard to find love in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland's forgotten 'seafood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200311-a-tiny-country-between-france-and-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French republic no one knows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, algaculture produces more than 30 million tonnes of seaweed globally a year and is booming (35.82 million tonnes in 2019 compared to 4.2 million in 1990 and 0.56 million in 1950, according to the UN's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fdocuments\u002Fcard\u002Fen\u002Fc\u002Fca9229en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood & Agriculture Organisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's 2020 World Fisheries and Aquaculture Report). However, European farmers remain responsible for less than 1% of world production and favour wild stock over farmed. But in Brittany, where the rocky coastline tangoes for 2,700km and 1,000-odd islands and islets speckle the pristine offshore waters, the landscape is slightly different. Exceptional water quality, coupled with miles of protective rocky shores to keep strong currents at bay, render Brittany seaweed farmland \u003Cem\u003Epar excellence.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed flourishes in temperate water and sunlight, which is why it grows in shallower waters near land,\" Le Corre explained. In the sea, not far from shore, a myriad of white dots bobbing on the water could easily be mistaken for a colony of resting seagulls. The floating grid of white buoys is actually her cultivated sea field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of Le Guilvinec from rocks at Pointe de la Men Meur, Brittany","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters, responsible for the sum total of French seaweed production: 75 goémoniers in Brittany hand-pick 5,000 tonnes of wild seaweed a year and 35 farmers harvest 65,000 tonnes from Breton sea fields. It is no coincidence that one of Europe's largest seaweed fields – 150 hectares of brown laminarians (royal kombu, dulse and wakame) cultivated by organic producer Algolesco next door to Le Guilvinec in Lesconil – grows in the middle of a marine nature reserve protected for its valuable species and habitats by the European Union's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fenvironment\u002Fnature\u002Fnatura2000\u002Findex_en.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENatura 2000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E network. Algolesco recently began exploiting another 207 hectares in sheltered waters offshore from Moëlan-sur-Mer, further east. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product,\" asserted small-scale farmer Le Corre, who yields three tonnes of organic wakame a year from her single hectare at sea. Each October she suspends her culture lines of baby seaweed in the Atlantic and six months later, after several nail-bitingly destructive winter storms, she sets sail in Mon Copain to heave out lines heavy with silky, nutrient-laden wakame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries Bretons have boiled frizzy-red pioka (Irish moss) in milk to make a natural gelling agent used in \u003Cem\u003Efar Breton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of clafoutis or sweet batter flan). Long before the invention of aluminium foil, cooks in Brittany wrapped fish in leaves of nori or dulse to keep it moist while cooking. On Breton islands where trees are few, seaweed substituted firewood as fuel until well after World War One. On Île de Molène, islanders traditionally smoked rolls of hand-cut pork over a seaweed fire for five consecutive days to create aromatic sausages called \u003Cem\u003Esaucisses de Molène, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand they remain an artisanal speciality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries seaweed was considered a poor man's food – it was originally fed to cattle after all – and was only really embraced by vegetarians in the late 20th Century. Today a new generation of contemporary chefs in Brittany, like David Royer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.castelach.fr\u002F\"\u003ECastel Ac'h\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Plougeurneau) and Mickaël Renard at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hoteldelamer.bzh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHôtel de la Mer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Brignonan), are embracing Brittany's natural bounty of sea veg with newfound gusto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I take the best of what I have around me – which is what grows in my garden and the sea, my 'other' garden right in front of me. It is now fashionable to eat seaweed, but it has always been eaten here in Brittany,\" said Royer. \"In a restaurant you have to be careful how you present it on the plate. If it looks like seaweed, it doesn't work – but incorporate small pieces throughout and it is sensational.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre foraging for seaweed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGastronomic meals at Castel Ac'h open with an apricot, cheese and dulse \u003Cem\u003Esablé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (shortbread) and a basket of \u003Cem\u003Epain aux algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed bread) accompanied by salted Breton butter spiked with nori flecks. Every course incorporates seaweed, including dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs canny in the kitchen as at sea, Le Corre cooks up a seaweed storm at her wildly popular \u003Cem\u003Edégustation\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tasting) and cooking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alguerie.com\u002Fatelier%20de%20decouvertes%20des%20algues\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she demonstrates how ancient conservation methods (such as salting and pickling) and family recipes marry with local algae to sensational effect: syrupy wakame jam paired with warm goats' cheese on toast; mackerel and wakame \u003Cem\u003Erillettes;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a sweet spoon of velvety salted butter caramel peppered with wakame flakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach dish combining her dried or fresh salted seaweeds, mustards, condiments and chutneys is sublime. Each is also turbo-powered when you consider that sea lettuce, for example, contains eight times more vitamin C than an orange and 10 times more calcium than milk. Chemical- and preservative-free, the only source of nutrients in algo-cuisine is the natural ebb and flow of the tide and the rise and fall of the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A fistful of seaweed is food for a month. Everything traditionally done with fruit and vegetables, I do with seaweed,\" said Le Corre with pride. \"It is my heritage – a \u003Cem\u003Esavoir faire\u003C\u002Fem\u003E born from the beaches I grew up on, the rocks I mucked around on, the endless days I spent with my father at sea 60 years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-30T10:45:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","headlineShort":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.2520","longitude":"3.9301","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","summaryShort":"Some 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-29T22:05:44.413419Z","entity":"article","guid":"07c60a33-cf79-4f1e-bfa3-d808cca1ffea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:33:19.890309Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","_id":"62df806843d9f46d3d1a2510","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco"],"bodyIntro":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt began before the pandemic: an exodus of chefs abandoning Paris for the French countryside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJames Henry's 2017 departure was perhaps the most publicised. The Australian chef, who first skyrocketed to fame at small-plates trendsetters \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-aupassage.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAu Passage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the former Bones, left the Parisian cityscape to work alongside chef Shaun Kelly (ex-Au Passage) on a passion project: opening a restaurant and inn in the small town of Saint-Vrain 30km south of Paris. The result – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fle_doyennerestaurant_\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Doyenné\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – is set to debut later this year. And, as the pair plant their orchard and renovate the 19th-Century greenhouse and stables, they've also been supplying some of Paris' top restaurants with produce from their three-acre vegetable garden. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Henry and Kelly are far from the only chefs to step out of Paris in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think it started before Covid, but it was discreet,\" said Daniela Lavadenz, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lesaintsebastien.paris\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Saint-Sébastien\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Paris' trendy 11th arrondissement. \"There was already an explosion of people buying country homes before Covid. But everything was multiplied with the pandemic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo wit: chef Sven Chartier of the former Michelin-starred Saturne left the capital in late 2020 for the countryside of the Perche region, 150km west of Paris; his new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodsection.com\u002Ffoodsection\u002F2010\u002F09\u002Fn%C3%A9o-bistrot.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enéo-bistrot\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oiseau-oiseau.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOiseau Oiseau\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in October 2021 boasting a menu brimming with local produce. In 2018, former jewellery shop owner Mickaëlle Chabat and her husband, chef Louis-Philippe Riel (ex-Le 6 Paul Bert), ventured even further afield to the Italian border for a new home by the slopes. They found the house that would become their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laubergedelaroche.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAuberge de la Roche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the town of Valdeblore (whose Alpine ski resort La Colmiane boasts the longest zip line in France) and launched the project in collaboration with chef Alexis Bijaoui, formerly of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.garance-saintdominique.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0z0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We fell in love with the view,\" said Chabat. \"It's almost like being in the middle of nowhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe preponderance of chefs abandoning the capital in favour of greener pastures is, in part, a reflection of an ever-growing interest in locavorism. Despite a few anomalies – such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Farticles\u002Fparis-catacomb-mushrooms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emushrooms grown in the Catacombs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191204-paris-hidden-vineyards#:~:text=While%20it%20may%20seem%20like,the%20city's%20most%20celebrated%20parks.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewine produced in a handful of public parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – Paris has long been known for transforming ingredients, rather than producing them. But in recent decades, many Parisian chefs had been paying considerably less attention to where those ingredients were coming from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFarmers' markets selling local produce are thin on the ground in Paris, with most of the city's \u003Cem\u003Emarchés \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eactually peddling produce from Spain, Italy and Portugal by way of wholesalers. The central Les Halles market, a mainstay of Paris since the Middle Ages, relocated to the outlying city of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rungisinternational.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERungis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (near Orly Airport) in 1969 and today occupies 4.2 sq km and boasts the largest turnover of any wholesale market around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFred Pouillot, the owner of Parisian cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lefoodist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Foodist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, draws attention to this discrepancy on tours of local markets with his American clients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr6xb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I ask them, only looking at the produce, 'what is the difference between what you see here and an open-air market back home?',\" he said. \"And then I lead them on until the 'clue' is given – bananas! We don't grow bananas around Paris! Or mangoes, or melons or anything you see here for that matter. In America, an open-air market is a normally a farmers' market. This is not a farmers' market – this is a traders' market.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile this disconnect may seem surprising, especially given France's celebrated link to its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2013\u002F09\u002F01\u002Fsunday-review\u002Fvive-le-terroir.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eterroir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to French culinary journalist Emmanuel Rubin, it's merely the final step in a long and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F09639489.2019.1676218\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecomplex devolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The rapid economic development France underwent in the 1950s and '60s – a period known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheculturetrip.com\u002Feurope\u002Ffrance\u002Farticles\u002Fwhy-frances-trente-glorieuses-are-so-important-to-the-nation-today\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrente Glorieuses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – had, Rubin asserts, a lasting effect on the country's cities, notably with regards to the arrival of supermarkets on the outskirts of town centres that negatively impacted the availability of small shops within. This, Rubin said, \"modified French and urban dining habits in a lasting way\", radiating from the home into the restaurant industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps even more essential to Paris' disconnect with the local landscape is its style of cooking. The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal (as opposed to the ingredient-driven mindset that governs, for instance, Italian cuisine) made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone. Additionally, restaurants serving mass-produced meals in France became so prevalent that in 2014, the government approved a label to affirm that the dishes being served \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-france-homemade\u002Ffrance-forces-labels-on-restaurants-to-save-homemade-cuisine-idUSKBN0FK1WX20140715\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewere actually being made in-house\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr19b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf late, however, as part of a growing resistance against industrialised food, many of Paris' top chefs have started reducing their reliance on Rungis – where, Lavadenz asserts, vegetables are \"calibrated and covered in plastic or cardboard\" – in favour of partnerships with sustainable cooperatives and networks like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.terroirs-avenir.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerroirs d'Avenir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.agrofile.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgrof'ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftomsaveurs.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETom Saveurs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But for some chefs, venturing into the countryside themselves is a logical next step – something, Lavadenz posits, \"makes the job more interesting\" for these culinary professionals, who now have a hand, not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoïc Martin and Édouard Bergeon have been growing much of their own produce for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurantmartinparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wine bar and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frobert-restaurant.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant – both in Paris' 11th arrondissement – for seven years, ever since Martin bought land on the banks of the Loire River, almost on a whim. The plot of countryside has since become the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Flejardinsurloire\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJardin-sur-Loire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"At the beginning, it was just to feed the restaurants in Paris,\" said Martin. But in 2021, the pair expanded their portfolio to include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLesterrassesdelile\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELes Terrasses de l'Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a nearby \u003Cem\u003Eguinguette\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (country restaurant), complete with a tiny house perfect for hosting visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0cm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBertrand Grébaut houses Parisians in slightly more luxe fashion at his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.duneile.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ED'Une Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a B&B and \u003Cem\u003Etable d'hôte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fixed menu restaurant) in the same Perche region that also tempted Chartier from the capital. The Michelin-starred chef of the infamously impossible-to-book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.septime-charonne.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeptime\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris' 11th arrondissement said he wasn't necessarily looking to create a new venture outside Paris when, in 2017, he and his business partner, Théo Pourriat, started to think about new projects to add to their portfolio. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was pretty vast, at that point,\" he recalled of the breadth of ideas he and Pourriat were considering. \"But at the end of the day, we were attracted by the idea of finding a pretext to be closer to nature. To put our feet somewhere green.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce he'd visited the B&B, the choice was made in an instant. \"It's hard to not fall in love at first sight when you get to D'Une Ile,\" said Grébaut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe irresistibly charming estate is comprised of a small grouping of 17th-Century stone buildings in the heart of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.normandie-tourisme.fr\u002Fdiscover\u002Fheritage-and-architecture\u002Fregional-nature-reserves\u002Fthe-perche-regional-nature-reserve\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Perche Regional Nature Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Light stone and dark wood create a peaceful, rural and rustic environment with food to match.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0fc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter,\" recalled Grébaut, \"because we were growing our own radishes, because we were making butter in-house, and because when we serve the radish, it was harvested two hours ago and it's never seen the fridge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETapping into local terroir is at the heart of the project at Auberge de la Roche, as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The idea was to create a space that was really rooted in its environment,\" said Chabat of her mountain oasis, whose kitchen relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius, meaning that the menu is often left to the whims of Mother Nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When there's a storm, we've got no fish,\" she said, implying how they often need to make adjustments on the fly. However, the restaurant's team has built a network of local producers, such as Sandrine Giraud, who cultivates her own heirloom grains; and Lawry Calendra, who produces pork that Chabat describes as \"totally insane\". And with chefs Riel and Bijaoui in the kitchen, Auberge de la Roche is on par with any fine dining restaurant you'd find in the French capital – with a price tag to match. A room at Auberge de la Roche clocks in at €350, and the seven-course prix fixe menu costs €90.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut even at D'Une Ile, where rooms are priced at €85 a night and dinner costs €39 for a rustic three-course menu, \"locals think we're really full of it, with a radish-and-butter dish at €5.50,\" Grébaut said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0ql"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis reflects an innate friction that often surfaces when Parisians abscond to the countryside, with their affinity for curated rusticity. Locals who arrive at D'Une Ile, according to Grébaut, baulk not just at the \"Parisian\" prices but at the \"mismatched, flea market chairs\" and simplicity of the food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were kind of disappointed that this was the restaurant that the Michelin-starred Parisian chef who just showed up in the Perche decided to open,\" he said, noting nevertheless that the simple approach to home-grown, quality ingredients, is \"our idea of luxury\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin noticed a similar disconnect upon opening Les Terrasses de l'Ile last year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We closed again quite quickly,\" he said, explaining that in addition to challenges linked to the re-emergence from lockdown, he found that many locals were suspicious of his arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a France that is feeling a bit forgotten,\" he said, noting that a group of Parisians taking over the restaurant that had, for 25 years, served a buffet beloved by regulars meant that \"there were loads of things locals didn't like\" about the new approach, which was perhaps better suited to Paris than to the French provinces\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1lf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was awful for the team,\" Martin said, \"so it was better to shut down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt probably doesn't help that with these new arrivals comes an uptick in housing prices. At just more than an hour from the French capital, the bucolic Perche in particular is now home to a host of ex- or part-time Parisians. Local cocktail expert Forest Collins can attest to the expensive result of having such high-profile neighbours, noting that in her hamlet, somewhere between a quarter and a third of houses have become weekend homes for city-dwellers and that local \u003Cem\u003Ebrocantes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(flea markets) have considerably hiked their prices as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin has since switched gears at Les Terrasses de l'Ile, which reopened this spring with a simplified menu that better caters to the local population. Egg mayonnaise, house-made terrine, mussels and French fries, or sausage with mashed potatoes are all made with 90% local ingredients and served at prices in-line with other offerings in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We took a step back,\" he said. \"It was the right idea. The right choice.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEdward Delling-Williams, owner of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.legrandbainparis.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grand Bain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, made a similar choice with his new venture in Normandy. Like many others, Delling-Williams had been itching to leave the city before finally taking the plunge during the pandemic, happening upon Heugueville and falling immediately in love with the north-western coastal village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was springtime, and it was unbelievable,\" he said. \"There was wild garlic everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1r0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthe_presbytere\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Presbytère\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this spring in a former vicarage just steps from the beach. Bit by bit, it will be fuelled by more produce grown on his land, which the previous owner spent 12 years renovating \"almost exactly how we would have done it\", Delling-Williams said. \"He's planted 6,000 trees. He's made safe spaces for animals. There's solar power. It's really unbelievable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the British chef, who also implemented a local mindset at Le Grand Bain, the move was a logical next step, a break from the monotony that had come to small plate-focused, natural wine-driven, contemporary Parisian restaurants – including his own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything is going to be local, so why not cater to the local population?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That style of food is now just everywhere,\" he said. \"If I brought you four dishes from four different restaurants, Le Grand Bain included, you wouldn't be able to pick which restaurant made which dish. And that seems a bit boring, now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt The Presbytère, Delling-Williams instead serves a combination of accessible French bistro fare (like house-made pâté or skate wing in butter sauce) as well as the food typical of the English pub he was raised in, including a Sunday roast. And the prices match the locale: around €18 euros for lunch, €30 for dinner. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everything is going to be local,\" he said, pointing to the sea purslane and sea aster growing wild around the restaurant. \"So why not cater to the local population?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1wd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If the Parisians want to come,\" he added, \"they can come.\" But he's doing nothing to overtly attract them. His focus is less on becoming an innkeeper than a brewer, a baker, and, above all, a producer of his own ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm pretty sure that if you talk to any chef, they're going to come up with the same sort of reason: having control over the produce,\" he said of his motivations. But then he prevaricated: \"Maybe I'm just becoming an old man and I want to be in the countryside. I think that's probably it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAge aside (the father of three is just 36 years old), others may soon follow suit. Martin, notably, thinks that he, too, will eventually make his part-time move to the Loire more permanent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that, in time, we might be happier raising animals and making our products there,\" he mused, \"rather than being in Paris five days a week.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe French capital's love of local is certainly on the rise, with restaurateurs realising that tapping into the richness of the surrounding countryside has become an expectation rather than an exception for many Parisian diners. But watching Delling-Williams traipse across his land with young sons in tow, inviting them to smell fresh spring garlic and pull radishes from the soil, it's perhaps no wonder that he's not the only chef with greener pastures on the mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-24"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-15T13:25:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The exodus of Paris' chefs to the countryside","headlineShort":"Why top chefs are leaving Paris","image":["p0cdr07y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3585593","longitude":"0.6257567","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cdr07y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","summaryShort":"\"It started before Covid, but it was discreet\"","tag":["tag\u002Frestaurant","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-14T21:31:35.607105Z","entity":"article","guid":"103d52fc-de3d-4a88-9edb-9a62fca14e6c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-15T14:21:36.27426Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","_id":"62df7ebf43d9f444fa6750c7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of Greece’s top archaeologists, Eleni Korka, recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career: the mythical city of Tenea, which was built by Trojan prisoners of war.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a baking hot summer’s day and I was in a car driving through the dramatic hills and lush vegetation of the Peloponnese in Greece. “Look at this whole plain,” my driver, Eleni Korka, said, gesturing out the window. To our left was a huge, flat area, covered in olive trees and scrub bushes. Where it ended, the earth transformed sharply into forested mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The city of Tenea covered this whole place,” she told me. “It’s above sea level and there’s a cool breeze, so the summer palace would probably have been built here.” She pointed to a traditional restaurant tucked under a distinctive, almost square-shaped hill. “And this taverna is built under a watermill,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKorka is one of the country’s top archaeologists. A Greek American, she recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career. The lost city of Tenea, which is mentioned in multiple Greek myths and historical texts, such as the ancient legend of Oedipus, the mythical king of Thebes who unwittingly killed his father and married his mother, was uncovered by her and her team \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-46205607\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elast October\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, buried under the fields we’re now driving past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190807-a-trattoria-with-a-hidden-ancient-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA hidden world under an Italian sewer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180409-egypts-exquisite-temples-that-had-to-be-moved\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe temples that had to be moved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190826-mexicos-mysterious-uncharted-caves\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe key to the origin of the Americas?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to myth, the city was founded by the Trojans sometime around 1100BC and built by prisoners of war. They chose this spot because it was on the road between Corinth and the ancient settlement of Mycenae. Oedipus was said to have been raised here after being sent away as a baby. And it was one of the largest and most prosperous cities in the ancient region of Corinthia in the northern Peloponnese. Until now, however, no-one could work out exactly where it was – or why it disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe search for Tenea began in 1984. Korka was just five years into her career when she received a call from some local villagers digging a water channel. They had hit an ancient sarcophagus and broken it in half. Korka went to look. “The minute I saw it, I understood it was something unique,” she said. “Sometimes, a find connects with someone. It’s almost spiritual.” The vase-shaped coffin had delicate paintings of lions on the interior and contained a skeleton and offerings to the deceased. “We don’t have another one with drawings like that,” she explained. “We also do not know what ancient paintings looked like… We have no other sample from the Archaic period.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The minute I saw it, I understood it was something unique","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKorka knew Tenea was thought to be in the area, based on ancient historians’ writings, which stated it was somewhere between Corinth and Mycenae. But her young age, inexperience and a lack of further evidence made it impossible for her to get a licence for excavation. “I did not have the confidence or ability to argue why this was so important – it was more intuition-lead,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, illicit antiquities smugglers had known about the site for years, and would often pay local farmers for vases and coins they came across. In 2010, Korka worked alongside the police and informants to intercept the illegal sale of two statues that had been looted nearby. “The statues proved Tenea was a very prominent city with high levels of art,” she said. She finally obtained permission to dig in the area, and in 2013 the excavation began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped in the nearby village of Chiliomodi for coffee and pastries. The oldest houses here were built here around 200 years ago, and Korka explained that many of them used ancient rocks, likely from Tenea ruins, that were lying around. The local church has a carving of the Ancient Greek god of winemaking and theatre, Dionysus, embedded in the wall. “We think it was part of an ancient theatre, which we’re still searching for,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChiliomodi is a peaceful, pretty place, largely untouched by tourism. The discovery of the ancient city nearby has brought energy and excitement to the community. In the bakery I noticed bottles of local olive oil named “Tenea”, and there’s a shop of the same name due to open nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKorka and her colleagues Konstantinos Lagos and Antonio Corso, who were driving with us, told me that the project didn’t go exactly to plan to start with. “We had a small team and very little funding,” they said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe team is open to guiding visitors and organising educational events while the dig takes place in September and October. You can communicate with them through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fprofile.php?id=100013633369435&lst=60503340%3A100013633369435%3A1562742905&sk=about\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETenea Prjct\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Facebook account.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to visit Tenea","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA geophysical survey of the area was carried out by a third party using technology. But when they started to dig, they found nothing – the shapes seen during the survey had been created by the limestone soil. “So we went back to where the first sarcophagus was found,” she said. “Nearby we found about 40 others… they just kept coming out of the ground one after the other. It was like [the folk tale of] Ali Baba.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext, they discovered part of an ancient road, which lead the team to a Roman mausoleum from around 100BC in which several generations of a family were buried, plus a cistern that would have been used for rituals and sacrifices: “We knew this was outside of the city, so we decided to dig north instead.” Last October, houses were discovered, and the team realised they had finally found the city itself. “Most of the surface level findings had already been taken by looters,” Lagos said. “But most of the actual city is 2m or 3m below ground.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped at a house in Chiliomodi that is being used as the conservation centre. The team excavates during September and October and spends the rest of year analysing artefacts and studying historical texts. Lagos told me that a huge number of coins have been found on the site, proving Tenea was a very wealthy place. “We’ve found around 200 – you normally only get these kinds of numbers after many years of excavations,” he said. He showed me gold leaf imitation coins that would have been buried with the deceased as a gift for the boatman in the underworld. “Most people [at the time] were buried with pennies,” he said. “But in Tenea they used gold.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther finds include exquisitely painted vases, engraved lanterns and metal tools used by athletes (to scrape off the oil they cleansed their bodies with), leading the team to believe there is a stadium they have yet to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Almost everything in Tenea is unique,” Korka said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis backs up what the team knew about the society from historical texts: “The people here were different – they were Trojans. They had their own identity,” said Korka. As well as being from a different place – the city of Troy was located in what is now Turkey, around 600km – the finds so far show they used different styles of ceramics and had different burial tradition to those living in nearby Corinth and Mycanae, such as placing the coin on the chest rather than in the mouth, as was common elsewhere in Ancient Greece.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut one of the biggest mysteries surrounding Tenea is why it disappeared. Most other major ancient Greek cities, such as Sparta, Athens and Corinth, remain inhabited to this day. It was unusual for a city as large as Tenea – there were probably around 100,000 inhabitants – to be completely abandoned, and no historical texts give a clue as to why.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe headed back to the car and drove up towards the mountains, as Lagos began to explain the team’s theory. “We know Alaric, who was king of the Visigoths, raided Greece in 397AD,” he said. Historians believe he destroyed cities partly to gain wealth, but also to spread Christianity. “We discovered a coin that was issued by Alaric’s people.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, that wasn’t the end of the story for Tenea. “We have found evidence of inhabitation from 200 years later, but it appears Tenea had lost a lot of its wealth,” he continued, explaining that the finds from this period were not as grand or valuable as the earlier ones. “But after that, there’s nothing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe car climbed up a winding road, giving us spectacular views over the mountains and the plain under which Tenea rests. We stopped at a beautiful, crumbling Byzantine-era monastery. “We know the Slavs invaded this area around that time. We believe the people of Tenea abandoned the city and fled to these hills here,” he said, gesturing around us. The Slavic tribes are known to have raided the area and violently clashed with local communities, so it seems Tenea’s residents judged the hills to be safer. There were many streams around the city, and with no-one to attend to them they covered the city in silt, which eventually turned to earth and covered the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s like an iceberg and we’re just hitting the tip","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETenea’s discovery has answered many mysteries already, such as where the city was located and perhaps why it was abandoned. But for the team, the most exciting thing is what it still may hold. They are expecting to find more houses, temples, a theatre and a marketplace – known in Ancient Greek as an \u003Cem\u003Eagora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – over the coming years. “It’s like an iceberg and we’re just hitting the tip,” Lagos said. “It’s going to keep giving interesting findings for the next 100 years.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Funearthed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnearthed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that searches the world for newly discovered archaeological wonders that few people have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E: A previous version of this story had an incorrect reference to a home destroyed by a cannonball. The error has been removed.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-16T22:15:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The discovery of the ancient Greek city of Tenea","headlineShort":"The discovery of a mythical Greek city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of Greece’s top archaeologists, Eleni Korka, recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career: the mythical city of Tenea, which was built by Trojan prisoners of war.","summaryShort":"Until now, no-one could work out exactly where it was – or why it disappeared","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:34.133214Z","entity":"article","guid":"7209cd18-00fa-439c-a0a4-c32cafbcfdec","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:34.476438Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","_id":"62df80f443d9f42c861a8a10","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Inuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but TikTok star Shina Novalinga is sharing the tradition for a new generation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09cx9sb.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because of all of our differences. We each have our culture, our identity, our story... To me being different is beautiful and I embrace my Indigenous identity more and more everyday.\"\u003Cem\u003E – Shina Novalinga, throat singer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShina Novalinga locks eyes with her mother, Caroline, with an intimacy and closeness that feels that much more special during a pandemic. Caroline tilts to her other foot and exhales a guttural sound. Shina replicates and the two go back and forth, producing an infectious beat that's hard to resist bobbing to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometimes the pitch is high, sometimes it's low, but it's nearly impossible to decipher who is making which sound (\"If you're confused who's making the noise that's a good thing,\" Shina explained later). Finally, the two burst into laughter and turn to smile for the camera.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, the likes and comments pour in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but Shina, who was born in Nunavik and now lives in Montreal near the banks of the St Lawrence River, is sharing the tradition for a new generation. She's posting videos to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\"\u003ETikTok\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a social media platform particularly known for song and dance, and at last count, she's earned 1.9m followers along with more than 60m likes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what Shina is doing goes well beyond social media fame, according to Evie Mark, a throat singer and professor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsivunitsavut.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENunavik Sivunitsavut\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a college programme for Inuit studies. \"She's making a statement to say, 'I'm bringing back what was shamed upon.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I'm bringing back what was shamed upon","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Inuit legend, the first throat singers weren't Inuit or even human, but rather small birds with human-like features called Tunirtuaruit. \"It was hard to see them because they were very shy or afraid of human people and they would live in abandoned snow houses, or homes, and often you would see families of them,\" Mark said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe human version of traditional Inuit throat singing involves two people, usually women, facing each other and using their throat, belly and diaphragm to expel sounds. The two participants go back and forth, matching their partner's rhythm until one goes silent or starts laughing. \"It's a very intimate thing so for sure you're going to be triggered to smile or laugh, especially when you start seeing the person's eyes when you're singing together,\" Mark said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroat singing exists in other cultures as well, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qx8hrhBZJ98\"\u003Ek\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qx8hrhBZJ98\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehöömei\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, found in Mongolia, Siberia and in the Tuva region on the Russia-Mongolia border. Just like Inuit throat singing found in the Canadian Arctic, Greenland and Alaska, khöömei mimics the natural environment, such as animals, mountains and streams. But in khöömei, it is men who usually sing, while it's women in Inuit culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In our region, the men often had to go hunting either for two hours, two days, two weeks, two months and we are a matriarchal society only because the women were at home preparing clothing, food, garments and so on,\" Mark explained, \"I think that the women had more time on their hands to keep themselves entertained even though they were so busy sewing clothing and so on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMark clarified there are some Inuit men who do a form of throat singing – they imitate animal sounds while they're hunting and shamans chant. But women and children throat sang in the way we hear it today to keep their minds busy and their bodies warm during frigid weather. Throat singing was also a way to cope while social distancing during pandemics like the Spanish flu or measles. \"Entertaining themselves – singing songs, telling stories – was crucial for them to find happiness,\" Mark said. \"This allowed my grandparents to keep warm and to focus on their breathing. Like we try to do today: we try to find some peace or solace during the pandemic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in the early 20th Century, Christian missionaries in the Arctic shamed Inuit for throat singing. \"What they were told is it's bad, it's Satanic. In fact, it wasn't – it allowed them to flourish for thousands of years and all of a sudden, [they] couldn't,\" Mark said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThroat singing nearly died out, but in Puvirnituq, a village on the coast of Hudson Bay 1,630km north of Montreal, an elder wanted to preserve it. He asked the community's four remaining throat singers to pass their skills onto a new generation of women. One of these women was Caroline Novalinga, who later taught it to her daughter, Shina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in Puvirnituq, Caroline recalls spending her summers camping, chasing geese in springtime and skating or watching the ice fishers in winter. She also loved to sew and throat sing. \"We used to have so much to do when we were growing up,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECaroline moved to Montreal for college when Shina was four and shared her Inuit traditions with her daughter, including speaking Inuktitut at home. But it wasn't until Shina was 17 that she finally decided to teach her to throat sing. \"I had tears when she sang,\" Caroline said. \"I was so happy and emotional and proud, all those emotions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with preserving Inuit culture, throat singing has brought Caroline and Shina even closer. \"We have this connection that is kind of unexplainable between mother and daughter and it gives me this zone of comfort when I throat sing with her,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while Shina – who is half-Inuk and half-Quebecoise – has always been close with her mother, she felt out of place as a teenager in Montreal. \"I was always proud of my heritage, but I didn't show it as much. I was kind of more scared to show it,\" she said. \"I would dye my hair lighter... I feel like I had an identity crisis because I didn't really know which group I fit in.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe restaurateur who overcame Canada's Sixties Scoop\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200525-why-first-nations-communities-are-uninviting-visitors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy First Nations communities are uninviting visitors\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Canada's Indigenous identity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile studying at John Abbott College, Shina had a First Peoples' Voices teacher that encouraged her to learn more about her culture and traditions beyond what Caroline had taught her. \"That's when I realised how important it is and how much we've gone through, just for me to not embrace my identity? So that's when things started changing in my head.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn class, Shina learned about the injustices done to her people such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Famericas\u002F7438079.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresidential schools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-55269251\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESixties Scoop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where children were placed in non-Indigenous homes as a method of assimilation. For one class presentation, Shina throat sang. \"I was still just learning. It was definitely this year and last year that everything changed,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn March 2020, when the first wave of the pandemic hit Montreal, Shina started sharing throat singing videos on TikTok. The videos also showcased the gorgeous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6908890627497266433?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehandmade parkas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sewn and designed by her mother along with facts about Indigenous history. \"For me it's so normal, but I realised how unique it is for everyone to hear that, and even just different aspects of our culture, our food, our clothing,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have all these platforms to finally put our foot down and speak up about our beautiful culture and embrace it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlmost instantly, her videos started to rack up hundreds of thousands, even millions of views.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShina said she was inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement to share her story as well as by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6922195636217449734?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eher grandmother\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a poet, who didn't have the technology to reach as many people with her art. \"It's important to speak about the culture because my grandparents, older generations didn't have the opportunity to speak up,\" Shina said. \"And now we have social media, we have all these platforms to finally put our foot down and speak up about our beautiful culture and embrace it.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd the likes kept on rolling in. \"Seeing so much positive feedback and having all this recognition, it just pushed us to keep going,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Shina's trepidations as a teenager about showing her Inuk side were realised when she started to receive negative comments on social media, especially about the clothes she was wearing. \"People love what my mom makes, but as soon as they find out that it's real fox fur some are like, ‘Oh, you're cruel. Why would you do this? Don't use real animal.'\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShina tried to explain that traditional Inuit hunting has been sustainable for thousands of years, but many wouldn't listen. \"I used to be super defensive, and I would talk back to try to educate and explain, but I realised that I was only attracting those people,\" she said. \"It's not wrong, but at the same time I wasn't happy with myself, so I changed my content to be more positive and to ignore comments like that and to just keep showing the beauty of our culture instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, Shina couldn't resist fighting back. In a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6925982275255520518?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she's seen crying over a video of two people mocking throat singing. \"People misunderstand our way of life, our Inuit culture... but I go on social media to prove them wrong and to educate that we're all on the same page,\" she said. \"I'm half Inuk and I'm half Quebecoise, I know both sides and I want to be the bridge to have this reconciliation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, throat singing was given \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fglobalnews.ca\u002Fnews\u002F1116482\u002Fthroat-singing-gets-cultural-heritage-status-in-quebec\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural heritage status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Quebec – the first designation of its kind for something intangible (the distinction had previously been reserved for artefacts, architecture and photography). Throat singing has also been popularised in recent years thanks to artists like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp02rzplg\u002Fplayer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETanya Tagaq\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=4ifsWeJViSQ&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuantum Tangle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=D3om9g7arPQ&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPiqsiq\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=iL1eyt8_VkM\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERiit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShina and Caroline (who has her own popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@kayuulanova?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETikTok account\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) have recorded a throat singing album of their own and plan to release it later this year. \"We want to show people that throat singing exists and we want to make sure that it stays for as long as we can,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for social media and the negative comments it attracts, Shina plans to continue sharing positive content. She urges others – especially young Indigenous women like herself – to share their voices, too. \"A lot of indigenous youth are afraid just like I was and it's important to embrace who you are, your identity and not be ashamed of your culture,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-15T11:56:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A revival of Indigenous throat singing","headlineShort":"Canada's rising Inuit TikTok star","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.0448585","longitude":"-77.4301009","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Inuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but TikTok star Shina Novalinga is sharing the tradition for a new generation.","summaryShort":"\"I'm bringing back what was shamed upon\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:39.7268Z","entity":"article","guid":"20134621-e73a-4761-8559-2edbc517e0c1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-25T19:26:15.188121Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","_id":"62df824143d9f46dab656545","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury"],"bodyIntro":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComing to the end of a short, winding trail, I found myself standing in the extreme north-west corner of the contiguous US, a wild, forested realm where white-capped waves slam against the isolated Washington coast with a savage ferocity. Buttressed by vertiginous cliffs battling with the corrosive power of the Pacific, Cape Flattery has an elemental, edge-of-continent feel. No town adorns this stormy promontory. The nearest settlement, Neah Bay, sits eight miles away by road, a diminutive coast-hugging community that is home to the Makah, an indigenous tribe who have fished and thrived in this region for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale, and their story is closely linked to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah is the only tribe with explicit treaty rights to whale hunting in the US,\" explained Rebekah Monette, a tribal member and historic preservation programme manager. \"Our expertise in whaling distinguished us from other tribes. It was very important culturally. In the stratification of Makah society, whaling was at the top of the hierarchy. Hunting had the capacity to supply food for a vast number of people and raw material for tools.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter reading recent news stories about the Makah's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fisheries.noaa.gov\u002Fwest-coast\u002Fmarine-mammal-protection\u002Fmakah-tribal-whale-hunt\"\u003Ewhaling rights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsanctuaries.noaa.gov\u002Fnews\u002Ffeb22\u002Fmakah-ocean-out-of-balance.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eimpact of climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on their traditional waters, I had come to their 27,000-acre reservation on Washington's Olympic Peninsula to learn more, by visiting a unique \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etribal museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has just reopened after a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8dq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EDue to a trick of fate, Makah history is exceptionally well-documented. In contrast to other North American civilisations, a snapshot of their past was captured and preserved by a single cataclysmic episode. In 1970, a brutal Pacific storm uncovered part of an abandoned coastal Makah village called Ozette located 15 miles south of Cape Flattery. Part of the village had been buried by a mudslide that was possibly triggered by a dramatic seismic event around 1700, almost a century before the first European contact. Indeed, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\"\u003Erecent research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E argues that ancestors of the Makah – or related Wakashan speaking people – have been present in the area for at least 4,000 years, which, if proven, would change our understanding of prehistory in the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMiraculously, the mud had protected embedded organic matter by sealing it off from the air. As a result, thousands of well-preserved artefacts that would normally have rotted – from intact woven cedar baskets to dog-hair blankets and wooden storage boxes – were able to be painstakingly unearthed during a pioneering archaeological dig.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDue to the suddenness of the event and the exceptional levels of preservation, scientists hailed the find a \"Western Pompeii\" and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Farchive\u002Flifestyle\u002F1979\u002F06\u002F24\u002Fcivilization-lostand-found\u002Fe3e94085-fcb9-4ea4-81ce-862a5b5a3379\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashington Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called it \"the most comprehensive collection of artefacts of a pre-European-contact Indian culture ever discovered in the United States\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnxious the material might be engulfed by the sea and lost, the tribe called in Richard Daugherty, an influential archaeologist at Washington State University who'd been involved in fieldwork in the area since the 1940s. Having good connections with Congress, Daugherty helped secure federal funding for an exhaustive excavation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8dn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Dr Daugherty was instrumental in the excavation work,\" recounted Monette. \"He was very progressive and interested in working alongside the tribe in the process. He worked to gain financing for 11 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ozette dig lasted from 1970 until 1981 and ultimately unearthed around 55,000 artefacts from six beachside cedar houses covered by the slide. The Makah, like many indigenous groups, have a strong oral tradition, with much of their history passed down through storytelling, song and dance. The evidence unearthed at Ozette affirmed these stories and added important details.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary,\" recalled archaeologist Gary Wessen, a former field director at the site who later wrote a PhD dissertation on the topic. \"Ozette is what we call a primary deposition. We have all these materials preserved in the places where they were actually used. It helps tell us more about the social and spatial relationship of the people who lived in the houses.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile much of the material dated from around 1700, some of it was significantly older. Indeed, archaeologists ultimately determined that multiple mudslides had hit Ozette over a number of centuries. Beneath one of the houses, another layer of well-preserved material dated back 800 years. The oldest finds so far have been radiocarbon-dated to 2,000 years and there are middens in the area that are at least 4,000 years old, according to Wessen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outset, the Ozette dig was different to other excavations. Tribal members worked alongside university students at the site, and, early on, it was decided that the unearthed material would stay on the reservation rather than be spirited off to distant universities or other non-indigenous institutions. In 1979, the tribe opened the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\"\u003EMakah Cultural and Research Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Neah Bay with a museum to house a \"greatest hits\" of the collection. The 500 pieces currently on display represent less than 1% of the overall find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The tribe was very assertive of their ownership and control of the collection,\" said Monette. \"A lab was developed in Neah Bay. For the museum, we hired Jean Andre, the same exhibit designer as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Froyalbcmuseum.bc.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal BC Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Victoria. We decided to tell our story seasonally with sections on spring, summer, fall and winter.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8d2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe result, which has only recently reopened, is a beautifully curated space. Outside on a verdant lawn, I was welcomed by a reconstruction of a traditional wooden Makah house and two large statues wearing distinctive cedar-bark rain hats. Inside, where I met Monette, the assembled exhibits left no doubt about the tribe's maritime prowess. I saw 13ft whaling harpoons, wooden paddles and seal skin buoys. A large central space was taken up with two red cedar canoes guarded by a giant whale skeleton. We proceeded through a mock-up of a dark wooden Makah house with an opening that looked out over a hyper-realistic diorama of the seashore at Ozette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was particularly enamoured by the artistry of many of the carved wooden objects. There was a dorsal fin of a whale studded with hundreds of sea otter teeth, and an unusual figurine of a woman lying prostrate in the act of childbirth. These artefacts, along with ornate seal clubs and delicate combs, testify to a remarkable level of craftsmanship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah were skilled woodworkers,\" said Wessen. \"They exhibited levels of sophistication regarding technology that weren't appreciated before.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are several elements about the Ozette project that make it one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date. The sheer size of the collection coupled with the scale of the effort to recoup it was unprecedented. Then, there's the calibre of the preservation, which, at times, was almost surreal. Wessen recalled excavators using fire hoses to blast the clay off vegetation entrenched in the mudslide. In the process, they exposed green leafy alder branches to sunlight for the first time in more than 300 years. As the oxygen hit, the leaves would quickly turn black, but for 15 to 20 seconds, workers were treated to a glimpse of a bright green leaf from 1700.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETribal elders were integral in helping archaeologists understand the meaning of many of the artefacts and how they were used. In the 1970s, there were still a dozen or so native speakers alive in Neah Bay. The knowledge of these elders perfectly complemented the scientific expertise of the archaeologists. Wessen remembers this sharing of ideas as a powerful experience. \"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8ct"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENeah Bay today has a population of just more than 1,000 people and an economy based mainly on fishing. After returning to the town from my blustery walk out to Cape Flattery, I sought shelter in a small waterfront joint called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\"\u003ECalvin's Crab House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and watched as the weather swung capriciously between sun and rain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust outside, a small monument marked the site of Fort Núñez Gaona, a colonial outpost established by a Spanish lieutenant called Salvador Fidalgo in 1792 as the first non-native settlement in the north-western US. Although the Spanish only stayed for four months, their presence marked an important historical watershed, the moment in which two cultures intersected and learned to live alongside each other in a new and different world. Uniquely, Ozette offers us a time capsule of Native life before the changes prompted by European contact.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the weather closing in, I decided against visiting the archaeological site, which is isolated and difficult to reach without a car. Unlike Pompeii, there are no ruins to walk around – although the surrounding beaches are spectacular – as the site was backfilled in 1981. All that remains today is an abandoned ranger station, a small memorial shed and some indigenous petroglyphs carved on rocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs to whether there's anything else down there, Wessen speculated there might be, but admitted that there's still more research to be done on the existing artefacts first: \"The Ozette collection in its entirety has not come anywhere close to having its full research potential realised,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-06T10:16:57Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ozette: The US' lost 2,000-year-old village","headlineShort":"North America's 'Western Pompeii'","image":["p0cbr8ds"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3683","longitude":"-124.5989","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cbr8ds"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","summaryShort":"It's one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","entity":"article","guid":"e616becc-5dab-4076-8d99-d4019d2287b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fwashington","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_washington_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language","_id":"62df7f3343d9f46da009726b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Though the Basque and Armenian languages share no superficial resemblances, they do share a baffling litany of words and grammatical elements.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few steps from the entrance to the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, one of San Sebastian’s most visible landmarks with its sky-piercing gothic spire, lies a simple, two-faced earthen slab. In this corner of Spain’s Basque Country, it seems out of place: carved on one side with an Apostolic cross and on the other with a mysterious-looking, non-Latin alphabet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe letters are certainly not \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170719-the-mysterious-origins-of-europes-oldest-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuskara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also known as Basque, an enigmatic European language famous for the absence of any clear links to living linguistic relatives. Rather, this Armenian \u003Cem\u003Ekhachkar \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a cross-bearing memorial stele) was placed in central San Sebastian in 2017 by the city’s modern Armenian community to commemorate the centennial of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-16352745\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emass killing of Armenians by Ottoman Turks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which the Basque Country parliament is one of five parliaments in Spain to officially recognise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is a surprising reason for the camaraderie between these two small and distant ethnic groups that are from opposite sides of Europe. Though their languages indicate no superficial resemblance – even the scripts look comparatively alien to one another – they share a baffling litany of words and grammatical elements that are acknowledged by both Armenian and Basque scholars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I first saw the Armenian khachkar, I had just arrived from Biarritz in French Basque Country, where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fagurarmenie.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAssociation AgurArménie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Armenian-Basque association) similarly trumpets a strong friendship between the two ostensibly distinct groups. What’s more, as I clumsily rolled past the memorial with suitcase in hand, I noted that San Sebastian’s khachkar looked familiar. In the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.musee-basque.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBasque Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bayonne, a short distance inland from Biarritz, I’d seen medieval Basque funerary steles that bore artistic motifs with striking similarities to the one in San Sebastian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe language the French forbade\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190422-the-swiss-language-that-few-know\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland’s ‘secret’ fifth language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190418-the-french-region-with-a-new-currency\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French region with a new currency\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWas this just coincidence? Many Armenians believe these similarities are not. Contrary to the popular belief that Basques are a cultural island, the Armenia-origin theory claims linguistic, toponymic, mythological and even DNA links between Armenians and Basques. Though this theory goes back centuries, it was most recently reinvigorated by Armenian linguist Vahan Sargsyan, who published numerous books and studies on the subject, including a first-ever Armenian-Basque dictionary in 2001.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a topic not without controversy. The dominantly upheld theory by many Basques, including on their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Faa30-12377\u002Fen\u002Fcontenidos\u002Finformacion\u002Faa30_cultura_vasca\u002Fen_def\u002Feuskera.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment tourism site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is that their ethno-linguistic origin is isolated. This means their language and DNA are unique – and is thought to derive directly from hunter-gathers who came to this area long before Neolithic farming entered the region 7,500 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, in 2015, DNA testing by population geneticist Mattias Jakobsson of Uppsala University in Sweden put a dent into this theory when his team found strong DNA matches between skeletons of Neolithic Iberian farmers, which date to 5,500 to 3,500 years ago, and modern day Basques, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencemag.org\u002Fnews\u002F2015\u002F09\u002Funusual-relic-language-comes-small-group-farmers-isolated-thousands-years\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to Science Magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But the discovery hasn’t brought closure. The researchers also conceded that they couldn’t “entirely rule out the possibility that Basque still has its origins in a hunter-gatherer language that was retained and carried along as farming spread throughout Iberia” – which leaves the mystery unsolved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat makes the Armenian-Basque theory intriguing is that it has long been supported by linguistic research, first in an article by British Basque linguist Edward Spencer Dodgson in 1884, and then by studies from German philologist Joseph Karst in 1928, who discovered more than 300 Basque-Armenian lexical, grammatical and phonetic matches, including \u003Cem\u003Etegi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (place), and \u003Cem\u003Ezat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (separate in Basque)\u002F\u003Cem\u003Ezati \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(separate in Armenian).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore contemporarily, Sargsyan’s collaborative work in 1998 with Armenian and Basque linguists identified almost 600-shared parallel words between the two languages, which Sargsyan suggested were introduced through metallurgy and farming via an ancient migration of Armenians to this area. “It’s no accident that the Armenian and Basque languages have a number of almost identical words relating to agriculture,” he wrote in a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fimyerevan.com\u002Fpdf\u002Fen\u002F2006-best.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2006 article in Yerevan Magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, referring to the shared words \u003Cem\u003Eardi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sheep), \u003Cem\u003Eurti \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(water-bearing) and \u003Cem\u003Egari \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(millet in Euskara; barley in Armenian).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was curious to test out the Armenian-Basque lexicon to see if it was mutually intelligible, so I set out to question Euskara speakers on both sides of the Spanish-French border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom Bayonne to Bilbao, the Basque region, as seen from several train seats, is a land of brilliant greenery that traverses thick beds of grass and misty mountaintops. It is this land that provided for early Basque pastoralists, and its long coastline for fishermen, both of which are traditions still upheld strongly today. While 90% of Spaniards live in big cities, making the country one of the most depopulated in Europe, contrarily the majority of the Spanish Basque Country’s more than two million people still live a rural or suburban lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis strong anchor to village life has created numerous dialects, and in Basque public schools and institutions, a standardised Euskara\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E called \u003Cem\u003Ebatua\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is employed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI showed Manex Otegi, a San Sebastian native I met through my holiday rental, a list of 26 shared Armenian-Basque words from Sargsyan’s compilation. “It is Basque, but it’s a bit weird; it seems to be really old,” he said, referring to the list. “Only six words on this list are batua,” he added, pointing out the Armenian-Basque words \u003Cem\u003Ezati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (separate) and \u003Cem\u003Etxar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (evil). “I’m not sure where they [others] come from and I guess that the ones that I’m not familiar with is because they are very old and maybe have been lost because the lack of use over the years and small population.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI repeated the same questioning with some Armenian friends in Bayonne, who recognised just one word on the list, the word for sheep (\u003Cem\u003Eardi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), as an antiquated Armenian word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGauging from conversations on trains and pintxo bars, and later with academics, it seems most shared Armenian-Basque words are obsolete and no longer part of either modern language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnfortunately, there are no known living speakers fluent in both languages, and Sargsyan, who was self-taught in Euskara, passed away after a sudden heart attack in 2011 at the age of 54. According to his daughter Arevik, he left behind hundreds of flash cards of additional shared words, which have yet to be published.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut how did two isolated ethno-linguistic cultures share so many words with one another? Multiple academics – both Armenian and Basque – including Basque linguist Charles Videgain, kept pointing me to Bilbao, where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.euskaltzaindia.eus\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuskaltzaindia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Royal Academy of the Basque Language) is located, to speak with the preeminent minds on the history of the Basque language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Bilbao, however, every scholar I spoke with officially rejected any link between Basques and peoples from the Caucasus (including Armenians or Georgians). Xabier Kintana, head director at the Euskaltzaindia, told me that Sargsyan’s list of shared Armenian-Basque words “are taken very randomly from the different modern dialects of the Basque language” and “are surely old loans of Latin, Celtic and other languages, in their time neighbours of the Basque, which invalidates their comparison.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe insisted that in order for such a study to successfully find a shared origin, comparisons would need to be made between the ancient forms of both languages. This would strip away borrowings from other languages, both in the Basque case (Latin, Iberian, Celtiberian, etc) and Armenian (Arabic, Turkish, Syriac, etc). However, comparing ancient languages depends on often very tiny sample sizes from archaeological digs, meaning getting a complete picture is often impossible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven if a language connection is found, ultimately solid physical evidence linking the two peoples is absent. “The only relationship between these peoples is the similarity of some words,” Basque archaeologist Mertxe Urteaga told me. “There is no [archaeological] proof of the Armenian presence in the Basque Country and Navarra.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat left me back where I started, unable to find proof of a link between the two ethnic groups, yet still not convinced that two languages sharing hundreds of words could be pure coincidence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor now, it seems that Basque’s genesis story remains one of Europe’s greatest enigmas; a rare treasure of discovery in a world already largely charted, waiting for someone to finally crack it open.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-06-04T20:45:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The surprising story of the Basque language","headlineShort":"Europe’s baffling linguistic enigma","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Though the Basque and Armenian languages share no superficial resemblances, they do share a baffling litany of words and grammatical elements.","summaryShort":"They share a surprising litany of words and grammatical elements","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:33:33.361171Z","entity":"article","guid":"975d9b39-cbc2-4ba5-92dc-b09586a1e368","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:50:21.250112Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games","_id":"62df7e9d43d9f4583323b7ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"These beloved wall sports are considered to be the descendants of a 17th-Century game and the direct ancestors of tennis, squash and racket ball.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI am dazzled by the rural beauty of France's Basque Country, where the untamed coast and rolling green hills are dappled with red tile-roofed villages and surrounded by clouds of white sheep. Walking through these towns, I'm always on the lookout for a singular wall, measuring approximately 16m wide and 10m tall. It's often pink, sometimes pale yellow, and the date it was erected is usually emblazoned on the façade. It's possible, but not required, that the top of the wall rises into an arch and is lined with a mesh fence. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce I've found the wall, chances are high that I'm near the town hall, with signs identifying it in two languages: \"\u003Cem\u003Eherriko etxe\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Basque and \"\u003Cem\u003Emairie\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in French. And next to the town hall, I'm sure to find a stone church with a reverently tended cemetery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis trio of buildings is so sacred to locals that it's known as the \u003Cem\u003Etrinité\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: the town hall, the church and that wall, which the Basque call the \u003Cem\u003Eplaza, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor \u003Cem\u003Efronton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in French. Communities gather here to watch and play a dozen different ball games known together as\u003Cem\u003E Euskal pilota\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – \u003Cem\u003EEuskal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E meaning Basque, and \u003Cem\u003Epilota \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emeaning the specific type of ball, a nut of latex wrapped in yarn, then covered in leather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDeveloped in these mountains hundreds of years ago, the games (commonly known as Basque pelota around the world) vary from hand pilota, in which the ball is thrown and caught with bare hands, to \u003Cem\u003Epala\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a collection of games played with a wooden paddle or a cord-strung racket. In an age of football idols and video games, it's a testament to the strength of Basque culture that plazas are still busy with players vying for time on any given Sunday afternoon, while enthusiastic friends, families and fans watch from the sidelines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese wall sports are generally considered to be the descendants of \u003Cem\u003Ejeu de paume\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a 17th-Century game that originated in France, and the direct ancestors of tennis, squash and racket ball. Today they are played all over the world, thanks in large part to Basque entrepreneurs who \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.floridamemory.com\u002Fitems\u002Fshow\u002F34146#!\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eexported one of the games, \u003Cem\u003Ecesta punta,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to Florida in the 1920s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They rebranded it as \"jai alaï\", which means \"joyful celebration\", and it sparked a betting trend with an international following.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECesta punta, along with its sister sport \u003Cem\u003Egrand chistera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, are among the fastest ball games on record. They are played with a \u003Cem\u003Echistera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a leather glove attached to a long, thin basket that curves like a hook. Players catch the pilota with the basket, swing it back in a dramatic arch and then send the ball hurtling against the plaza at fantastic speeds. In fact, cesta punta holds a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.guinnessworldrecords.com\u002Fworld-records\u002Ffastest-moving-ball-sport\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuinness World Record\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for a ball that clocked in at 302km\u002Fh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe best chisteras are still made by hand in traditional workshops, such as the family-run \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchisteras-gonzalez.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAtelier Gonzalez\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the seaside town of Anglet. When I visited, sunbeams pierced a small room that was littered with wood shavings and cluttered with chisteras in every state of repair. Peio Gonzalez, the fourth of five generations of chistera makers here, was deftly building a frame out of chestnut, while his father, Jean-Louis, stood nearby weaving willow branches into a glove's basket. The family's fifth-generation artisan, Bixente Gonzalez, was at a plaza, practicing cesta punta for the pro circuit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The frontons are a \u003Cem\u003Elieu de vie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [community centre]. You go on a Sunday to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or Hasparren and the entire village is there,\" Gonzalez explained, naming two nearby villages that lie in the heart of the Pyrenees, not far from the Spanish border. \"We drink. We laugh.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt my next stop in the coastal village of Bidart, Patxi Tambourindeguy agreed: \"These traditions keep the culture alive.\" He and his brother Jon are world jai alaï champions who have competed in Cuba, Acapulco and Miami. When not on the circuit, they are at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.onapilota.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOna Pilota\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a light-filled atelier they opened six years ago to answer the growing need for custom-designed chisteras and hand-crafted pilotas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Basque are as proud of their locally sourced cuisine as they are of their unique sports, so it is no surprise that plazas are often near a restaurant or bar. In February, strolling through Bayonne, the popular resort port city on the Basque coast, I followed the sound of a pilota game echoing through the Petit Bayonne quartier and stumbled into a brasserie serving fans and players beside one of the oldest indoor plazas in France, the 300-year-old Trinquet Saint André. Similarly, in the small village of Arcangues, 15km inland, Jean-Claude Astigarraga's Restaurant du Trinquet was built with a viewing window, allowing diners to watch a match while savouring traditional specialties, like pigeon or acorn-fed pork, grilled over an open flame. From behind the bar, the owner threw out his arms exuberantly, \"You see this? How lucky am I to live with this every day?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors who want to learn more about the various games can start at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.en-pays-basque.fr\u002Fvisite\u002Fecomusee-de-la-pelote-et-du-xistera-pilotari\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPelota and Xistera Pilotari Ecomuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in St-Pée-sur-Nivelle, or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kostakoak.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eget tickets to professional matches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E held throughout the summer in Bidart. But the best way to truly understand to power of the pilota is to head to the nearest plaza on your own, or to sign up for \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.onapilota.com\u002Fpelote-experience\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elessons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like those offered cesta punta champions Patxi and Jon as they teach the fun of this Basque tradition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-06T10:45:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Euskal pilota: The Basque Country's centuries-old ball games","headlineShort":"The fastest ball games on record?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.4893177","longitude":"-1.55443","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"These beloved wall sports are considered to be the descendants of a 17th-Century game and the direct ancestors of tennis, squash and racket ball.","summaryShort":"These centuries-old sports are still played across France's Basque country","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-05T23:48:25.752495Z","entity":"article","guid":"421dfc63-c3f4-448c-8463-ddb372cb8ed5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-09T13:03:22.792815Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began","_id":"62df7f8d43d9f46d370975e9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Basque cuisine is an exploration of just how far wood, smoke and flame can be taken as a cooking technique when it’s expertly harnessed and applied to the finest ingredients.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbedua.es\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsador Etxebarri\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is almost too perfect. Even to those who have dined there, the restaurant occupies something of a mythical place in the mind’s eye. Was it real? Does it actually exist?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe setting seems improbably flawless: Axpe, a tiny Basque village surrounded by green pastures and rugged, mist-shrouded mountains. The restaurant in an old stone farmhouse by a church where bells peal, tendrils of smoke wafting from chimneys into cold air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd the food. A meal at Etxebarri is a fire-powered tour de force, an exploration of just how far simple wood and smoke and flame can be taken as a cooking technique when they’re expertly harnessed and applied to the finest ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou expect to be served a \u003Cem\u003Etxuleta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E at Etxebarri: the rib-eye or sirloin steak, grilled over coals and served rare on the bone, that’s so classic as to be a Basque obsession. But what about the caviar, tiny orbs of black roe warmed high above the embers? Or the burrata made by hand every morning, the buffalo milk gently smoked in a wood oven? Or the blushing scarlet prawns, cooked whole, the heat of the fire steaming the sweet meat in its shell?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESelf-taught chef Bittor Arguinzoniz tinkers away in his rural hideout, taking a centuries-old gastronomic tradition – the Basque art of the “\u003Cem\u003Easador\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”, the wood-fired grill – and pushing it to an astonishing new level. This is a cuisine Arguinzoniz has made his own, a style of cooking that defines Etxebarri and now, indeed, the entire Basque Country of northern Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s also, however, a cuisine of deep tradition, a culture of cooking with fire that stretches back millennia and that still thrives in every corner of this autonomous and culturally independent land. The influence of the grill masters is evident everywhere you look in the Basque Country: in the charred txuletas served in raucous cider houses; in the hake and turbot seared over hot coals at the coastal eateries overlooking the Bay of Biscay; in the flame-kissed staples that appear on menus everywhere from the most upmarket restaurants to the cheapest tapas-like \u003Cem\u003Epintxos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E bars in culinary hotspots such as San Sebastian and Bilbao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160426-how-to-eat-steak-like-a-brazilian\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to eat steak like a Brazilian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Bedouin answer to barbecue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200127-is-this-the-most-authentic-korean-barbecue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most authentic Korean barbecue?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We are just the hand that carries the produce from the countryside, the garden or the fish market to the table,” said Arguinzoniz, the undisputed master of the \u003Cem\u003Eparrilla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the grill, and a man of modest understatement. “There is nothing to hide behind with this style of cooking. It has the capacity to surprise you using the simplest ingredients. It can make you fall in love with Basque cuisine, with its local ingredients harvested from this very soil, ingredients that have been used throughout the course of history. It has particular significance right here. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to export, because outside of the Basque Country this significance gets lost.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFire. Passion. There’s an indelible link between the two, and that’s certainly evident in the Basque \u003Cem\u003Easadores\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. These grill houses are everything that makes this beautiful land and its people special: the wood the cooks burn is from the Basque region; the beef they sear is from its mountains; the seafood they harvest is from the waters that lap its shores. There's nothing imported or influenced by the outside, a concept that seems quintessentially Basque.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We must always have in mind, and never forget, where we come from. That is the most important thing.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe world, however, is taking notice. Asador Etxebarri is currently rated the third-best restaurant on the planet, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Fthe-list\u002F1-10\u002FAsador-Etxebarri.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to the 50 Best list\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restauranteelkano.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurante Elkano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another asador in the coastal town of Getaria, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Fthe-list\u002F21-30\u002FElkano.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eranked number 30\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. These eateries might be surrounded on the list by contemporaries who use foams and gels and molecular trickery, but for the Basque asadores, restraint is key.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Cooking over fire seems simple on the surface,” said Elena Arzak, joint head chef of the three-Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arzak.es\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurante Arzak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in San Sebastián, the birthplace of modern Basque cuisine. “But it is really one of the most complex ways of cooking. If you go to any campground in summer, you will see people barbecuing with more or less success. It’s quite another thing, however, to cook food to perfection. And that perfect cooking point is very important to the Basques. It’s an innate sensibility but can always be improved with practice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough it seems so refined in the hands of Arguinzoniz and his ilk, the art of the asador in the Basque Country is an egalitarian one. This is food for the masses, food for the people. Visit a cider house in spring and witness rack after rack of txuletas being seared over glowing embers, table after table devouring their meaty prize. See Elkano, now one of the most famous restaurants in the world, where chef Aitor Arregui provides a free service for his community, grilling local fishermen’s catches on his outdoor parrilla for them to take home and enjoy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is nothing to hide behind with this style of cooking. It has the capacity to surprise you using the simplest ingredients.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EElkano, in fact, is the perfect illustration of the living history of fire-powered cooking in Basque land and the interesting links that this intensely local cuisine has to the Basque passion for exploration and movement. The restaurant is named after Juan Sebastián Elcano, a Getaria native who became the first sailor to circumnavigate the world. It was Elcano and his peers, the Basque sailors and fishermen of the 15th and 16th Centuries, who would cook their catches at sea on wood-fired grills, and who brought this practice home. Today, coastal villages such as Getaria, Orio and Bermeo continue to lead the charge of the asadores.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch later, in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, a wave of Basque migrants would travel to Argentina, taking with them their \u003Cem\u003Etxapelas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – the classic Basque berets – and their agricultural skills, and sparking a parrilla obsession in that country. Others set sail for the US, adapting grilling techniques they witnessed in the Caribbean and helping create the strong barbecue culture found across the States today. Meanwhile, returning travellers from Latin America sought to recreate the wood-fired boom in the Basque Country in the 1960s, inspiring a resurgence in interest into what had become a home-style kind of cooking, and indeed a progression in terms of fuel and technique as local chefs began to tinker with an age-old tradition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Some of the great asadores in the Basque Country began at that time,” said Arzak. “Two of our inland temples of grilling, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcasajulianmg.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa Julian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fasadorcasanicolas.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa Nicolás\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, both in Tolosa, started using ‘\u003Cem\u003Ecarbon vegetal’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or artisanal charcoal [instead of wood] to grill beef; around the same time in Getaria, Pedro Arregui of Elkano began cooking hake collars and later whole turbot on the charcoal grill. And in all these restaurants, the new generations continue in their footsteps.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn these times of restricted movement, grilling is a style of cooking that can be enjoyed without travel; trialled and tinkered with at home. Take fire, add meat. Simple. To truly experience the art of the asador, however, a visit to the Basque Country is essential. Call in to a classic rural grill house such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftrinketeborda.com\u002Fhome_en\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrinkete Borda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the hills above Irun; to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbedua.es\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBedua\u003C\u002Fa\u003E along an estuary near Zumaia; Casa Julian in Tolosa; Sidreria Zapiain in Astigarriga; Elkano, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkaia-kaipe.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaia-Kaipe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Firibargetaria.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIribar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in friendly Getaria; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flaiaerretegia.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in beautiful Hondarribia. And of course, Asador Etxebarri, where smoke and flame and the heady beauty of the Basque mountains and the ingredients they produce result in almost alchemical wonder at the hands of Arguinzoniz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou will also find, of course, that modern-day cooking techniques in the Basque Country have progressed. Most contemporary eateries here now use gas-powered stoves. Plenty of local homes have induction cookers. Elena Arzak and her team of visionaries have bought a 3D printer and are tinkering with edible ink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut none of these techniques touches the Basque soul and speaks to the local identity like the beauty and simplicity of fire. This is where the Basques came from, and it’s who they still are today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The big challenge for me is to maintain the essence of a traditional Basque asador while trying to open it up to the outside world,” Arguinzoniz mused of his pursuit of perfection. “We must always have in mind, and never forget, where we come from. That is the most important thing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-30T21:00:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Where barbecue culture began?","headlineShort":"Why Basque food tastes so good","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Basque cuisine is an exploration of just how far wood, smoke and flame can be taken as a cooking technique when it’s expertly harnessed and applied to the finest ingredients.","summaryShort":"The world is starting to take notice","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:27.973531Z","entity":"article","guid":"ae65f139-4ead-43a3-a45a-67b594f2708a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:11:39.388085Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people","_id":"62df7fa143d9f42c7c5da25f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Cider is a staple in the Spain's Basque Country, and its fascinating story goes hand in hand with the Basque desire to conquer the seas.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Imagine more than 2,000 cider houses here, rolling from the mountains of Zerain to the sea some 200 years ago,\" said Aritz Eguren, looking out past an orchard that tumbled down into a deep gorge. Below, a herd of ponies was grazing pasture. On all sides fruit trees glinted in the afternoon sun. From the slope, we could see \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Foiharte.com\u002Fes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOiharte Sagardotegi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the working farm run by Eguren and his wife Maite, and, behind that, a warehouse of steel barrels filled with naturally fermented cider from Moko, Goikoetxe and Errezil apples native to the Basque Country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now let's drink,\" Eguren said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the soft haze of the farm cellar, the cider maker called \"\u003Cem\u003ETxotx\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\" and opened a spigot on the side of one of the barrels. His onomatopoeic declaration – a Basque term for the traditional toothpick-sized barrel stoppers, now shorthand for the start of cider drinking hour – was followed by a backlit stream of gold gushing from the drum towards the floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore it hit the cold concrete floor, he caught the first pour in a tilted short glass around 30cm from the flow to awaken the natural carbonation. Then, he prompted me to do likewise. My glass filled, we clinked and toasted \"\u003Cem\u003ETopa!\" \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Cheers!), then emptied our glasses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In this job, if you don't drink cider there's no point,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo we did it again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj0j76"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis cider-drinking ritual is embedded in many aspects of Basque culture, and soon barrel after barrel was tapped to the same call: \"Txotx!\". My first night in a Basque cider house soon became a faint memory of intoxication and the lessons of hundreds of years of history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs chateaux vineyards are to Bordeaux and single malt distilleries are to Speyside, \u003Cem\u003Esagardotegi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – family-run cider houses – are to the Basque Country. And, at Oiharte, 70,000 litres of traditional cider are produced every year from a plantation of 1,500 trees in the Zerain mountains. While Oiharte only opened in 2010, the story of the Basque Country's harvest winds back much farther. This land of the apple, with 500 varieties of the fruit, has been in the cider-making business ever since the 11th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was only eight years old, my grandmother would give me one glass of cider with my dinner,\" guide Amaia Zubeldia Arratibel told me the following day when we visited nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.igartubeitibaserria.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIgartubeiti\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the oldest cider-producing farmstead still in existence in Spain, where records of cider-making date to the 1600s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArratibel works for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sagardoa.eus\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESagardoa Route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is part of the Basque Country Cider House Association. She grew up on an orchard-strewn farm and, as her grandparents made naturally fermented apple juice every autumn, the cider-making tradition has defined her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My father and grandfather used to go to the cider houses four times per week,\" she recalled. \"This was how it was. And cider houses were the sole realm of men – women weren't allowed. But the world, and habits, have changed. Now, they mostly open at the weekend for lunch and dinner, during the cider festival months of January to April, and everyone is welcome.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj0j72"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIgartubeiti, which reopened in 2001 as a museum, is a thatched stone and oak-beam farmhouse with a two-storey-high \u003Cem\u003Edollaria,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E an apple press made of Jenga-like wooden spars that compress and crush the fruit in the first stage of the cider production process. \"This is where the story of indigenous Basque culture really starts,\" said Arratibel, simply. \"Not only of cider and industry, but of family, food and local produce. Farming was \u003Cem\u003Eeverything\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in the 16th Century.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is where the story of indigenous Basque culture really starts","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn another floor of the museum was a musical instrument called a \u003Cem\u003Etxalaparta,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a percussive board made from a cider press, used to accompany \u003Cem\u003Ebertsolaritzas,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E traditional songs composed and sung in sagardotegi. And, of course, such ditties focus on tales of cider making and hard drinking. Outside, a dried wild sunflower was nailed to one of the farmstead's oak pillars. It remains the emblem of the cider house, a symbol of protection against bad weather, war and illness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We need to take care of this building because it's the only one left of its kind,\" Irati Irroyo, a guide at the museum, told me. \"Imagine the scene: small beds and living quarters; an inside fire to keep the family warm; and cows, pigs, sheep and cockerels sleeping inside, too. Then, a whole operation dedicated to making cider, as well as cheese. It was a little living factory.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat makes the cider story especially intriguing is how the industry grew in tandem with the Basque desire to conquer the seas. Historically, the kings of Castilla, the ancient region of north-eastern Spain, passed through the Basque Country en route to France, bringing money, merchants and trade in their wake. For the Basque city of San Sebastián and its nearby port Pasaia, this accelerated economic growth, and the construction of wooden frigates and brigantines sparked the coast into life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj0j4f"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Basques were master mariners and were among the first to sail around the world – even accompanying Christopher Columbus to the New World. Their skills became in high demand when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180719-the-city-that-lit-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world monetised whaling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as global demand for oil – for candles, lamps and soap – spiked. For much of this time – when flotillas of Basque vessels were bound, mostly, for Newfoundland and Labrador in Canada – the whalers drank cider, with cargo holds loaded to the gunwales with untapped \u003Cem\u003Ekupelas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (barrels) of fermented apple cider. Water soured quickly during long periods at sea. Wine was far more expensive to produce. More agreeably, apples were everywhere. And cheap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Just as there was a boom, the whaling industry crashed, and the cider industry was in financial turmoil","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first whalers from the Basque Country took off in the 15th Century, and – thanks to the local cider and its high doses of Vitamin C – the sailors were rarely affected by the ravages of scurvy. By the 16th Century, the whalers had become renowned throughout the world for their stamina, giving the Basques an almost secret advantage over other seafaring nations and regions. It was a magical time for the apple farmers, with more cider needed than ever before and more cider houses built. San Sebastián, in effect, was built off the profits. In homage to this history, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.albaola.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlboala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum in Pasaia, is currently building a full-scale replica of the San Juan, a whaler's ship that sank off the coast of Labrador in 1565.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nothing lasts forever,\" said Arratibel, as we reflected on the past. \"Just as there was a boom, the whaling industry crashed, and the cider industry was in financial turmoil. Cider houses and pressing machines were closed, apple trees were cut down and other crops were introduced.\" At the end of 19th Century, at the peak, there were 100 cider houses in the city of San Sebastián alone. Now none of them remain. Across the Basque Country, many cider houses were forced to close, and shifting tastes saw cider house culture eviscerated before the region's now world-famous Rioja wineries entered the scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj0j2c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut at the end of 20th Century, when the txotx ritual was introduced to commemorate the old ways, there was a renaissance of both drinking cider and growing apples. And, today, the Basque Country bulges with born-again cider houses open for tours and cellar tastings. At some, around 200 litres of cider are drunk every mealtime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, Gipuzkoa province surrounding San Sebastián is home to 70 surviving and reimagined cider houses, while the town of Astigarraga has a cluster of 19, with the orchards forming a sinuous ribbon of fruit trees in the soft hills that slope north towards the San Sebastián coast, just 7km away. The focus is on the recuperation of indigenous apple varieties and the cross-pollination of trees so that a single sapling can grow more than one variety.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd across the region during the September harvest, up to 15 million litres of cider are produced. You can almost hear the sound of splashing alcohol, laughter and all-round merriment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn considering the relationship between the past and the present, a visit to Astigarraga and its most historical cider houses — \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zapiain.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZapiain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flizeaga.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELizeaga Sagardotegia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.petritegi.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPetretegi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E — is a must. Here, mealtimes verge on standing affairs, with waiters spinning out plates of \u003Cem\u003Echistorra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (miniature chorizo), \u003Cem\u003Etaco de bacalao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (salt cod with green peppers) and \u003Cem\u003Etxuleta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (salt-crusted T-bone steak), and drinkers preoccupied by the free-flowing cider. The encouraging idea is to soak up the alcohol but also to taste the traditions of the Basque Country and learn more about why it has become such a gastronomic destination – dinner menus cost around €35, while the cider is just €7 for as much as you can drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my last day, I visited Petretegi, where the \"Txotx!\" call rang out once more. Golden cider gushed. Drinkers rallied under wooden rafters. Darkness fell, with winds blowing up the river, and groups of friends topped up, sampling from barrel after barrel. Understandably, and without effort, I joined them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-14T20:23:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How a drink fuelled a sea-faring people","headlineShort":"The revival of a beloved Spanish drink","image":["p0cj0j8y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.312691","longitude":"-1.993332","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj0j8y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190603-the-surprising-story-of-the-basque-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-euskal-pilota-the-basque-countrys-centuries-old-ball-games","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cider is a staple in the Spain's Basque Country, and its fascinating story goes hand in hand with the Basque desire to conquer the seas.","summaryShort":"Cider houses are central to Basque identity","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-activities"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-13T20:25:48.254935Z","entity":"article","guid":"29507c11-b465-4aec-9477-e15cd72dff57","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-14T20:22:54.396254Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","_id":"62df814743d9f46d8d5988c3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Since the 1970s, the town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival. Now, a new generation of locals are ready to share their culture with tourists.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe water ripples to the shoreline like a slow yawn as the little village of Eilean Iarmain on the Isle of Skye gently wakes up. There are deliveries for the hotel and pub, dog-walkers stop to greet friends with \"\u003Cem\u003EMadainn mhath\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (good morning) by the pier, and tourists breathe in the crisp air and sea views before deciding on their day's adventure. The atmosphere is unhurried and inclusive, be you a local or visitor, as is the Gaelic way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince wealthy businessman and Gaelic language activist Sir Iain Noble became the landowner of a large part of Skye's southerly Sleat Peninsula in the 1970s, the village of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of a Gaelic revival in Scotland. The nearby college of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smo.uhi.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabhal Mòr Ostaig\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, founded by Noble in 1973, has grown over the past five decades from a handful of students to become the National Centre for Gaelic Language and Culture, attracting more than 1,000 students a year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGaelic, which had been the main language in Scotland for centuries, began to be dismantled from the early 17th Century onwards, beginning with The Statutes of Iona of 1609, under the reign of King James VI, which labelled it \"barbaric\" and called upon clan chiefs to send their heirs to English-speaking schools. Mass emigrations (some forced, some voluntary) of Gaelic speakers in the 18th and 19th Centuries didn't help, and the language was further undermined in the aftermath of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-highlands-islands-56661832\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBattle of Culloden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the Jacobites' failed last stand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Eilean Iarmain (Gaelic for Isle Ornsay) was once the main port on the south of Skye","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, in rural areas, particularly in the Western Isles and other parts of the Highlands and islands, Gaelic speaking remained strong, though increasingly by the 20th Century it was confined to the home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPrior to Noble's arrival, a lack of jobs led young people to leave Skye and look for opportunities elsewhere, and the Gaelic language was considered old-fashioned and at odds with this need to progress. Noble's belief, however, was that the Gaelic language could be utilised to stem depopulation in Skye and actually become an economic driver in its own right.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDecades on, Noble's theory has slowly been proven. Sabhal Mòr Ostaig is now one of the biggest employers on the Isle of Skye and a third of islanders speak Gaelic as either their first or second language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe college has spawned a new generation of Gaelic speakers skilled in TV, business and other industries that have enabled them to create more jobs on the island, but now it's taking a more outward approach and thinking about how it can extend its Gaelic offering to visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a Londoner with Irish Gaelic heritage, I've long wanted to visit the village of Eilean Iarmain, and as expected it's a picturesque, though unobtrusive place. The restored Victorian whitewashed \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Feileaniarmain.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eilean Iarmain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and its adjoining pub, Am Pràban, which also forms part of the late Noble's holdings, dominate. If you arrive in daylight, you'll be drawn to the water's edge to look out across the Sound of Sleat towards the hills of Knoydart. It's like a Hollywood depiction of Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sabhal Mòr Ostaig has become the National Centre for Gaelic Language and Culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to imagine, looking at the little pier, but Eilean Iarmain (Gaelic for Isle Ornsay) was once the main port on the south of Skye. In the 19th Century, everything coming into the south of Skye came through here, from coal to the post, fresh fish to the news. People also arrived and, more significantly, departed from here, whether they were heading on short trips to Portree, Mallaig or Glasgow for work or to collect provisions, or to seek new lives abroad. In 1837, the William Nicol ship left here bound for Australia with 332 emigrants onboard. According to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sleatlocalhistorysociety.org.uk\u002Findex.php\u002Ftopic\u002F48\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESleat Local History Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of those on board were forced to leave their homeland due to hardship and food shortages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpend more than a passing hour in Eilean Iarmain – you can also visit a stony beach, a knitwear shop, a Gaelic whisky and gin shop, an art gallery and a clutch of houses – and Noble's name will surely come up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot a native Gaelic speaker, Noble was initially met with some scepticism. Nevertheless, his love for the language shone through and today he is widely seen as the instigator of the resurgence of Gaelic culture in south Skye. This resurgence was no doubt aided by the deep sense of belonging so prevalent among Gaelic communities, passed down through the generations by those who left on the ships as well as those left behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because he was looking for Gaelic speakers [to teach at the college and work in the hotel], Iain would recruit from Skye and from the Outer Hebrides and then he would headhunt those whose families were from Skye but who, because there were no jobs, were working in Aberdeen, in London and further afield,\" said Lady Lucilla, Noble's widow. \"So, he was reversing the brain drain really.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hotel Eilean Iarmain forms part of the late Sir Iain Noble's holdings","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Sabhal Mòr Ostaig is still the only college in the world that delivers its learning programmes entirely in Gaelic. However, Eilean Iarmain is by no means the only part of Skye where Gaelic culture can be experienced: \"Gaelic is strong throughout the island – and certainly in the north of Skye, there are speakers and families that have always spoken Gaelic,\" Lucilla said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut she believes the college and the hotel, which both provide a real hub for the community, were catalysts for changing perceptions of Gaelic across the island, which wasn't seen as very progressive, particularly among young people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What was amazing about the college and the young people going there, was that Gaelic became cool","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"What was amazing about the college and the young people going there, was that Gaelic became cool,\" she said. \"I've seen some really cool youngsters who are very proud of their Gaelic, and they're just full of the usual spirits of young people but absolutely revelling in what they have, which is a heritage going back hundreds of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's little-known fourth 'language'\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's most remote inhabited island\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's version of 'hygge'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of those young people is Emily Macdonald, a 15-year-old musician who has grown up around Eilean Iarmain and speaks Gaelic fluently, having attended a primary school in the Gaelic-medium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as playing the bagpipes and the piano and being passionate about Gaelic song, Macdonald regularly converses with friends in Gaelic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Am Pràban adjoined to the Hotel Eilean Iarmain hosts traditional music sessions","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"At the age that we are now, I feel like we're even more wanting to speak Gaelic to each other, just to keep it alive, because it is really important,\" she said. \"And to have this special language that we can speak to each other in, you know, is quite special.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my visit, I was lucky enough to see Macdonald perform a few songs at a \u003Cem\u003Ecèilidh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a traditional social gathering with music and dancing) in the Eilean Iarmain hotel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I feel like the whole area around me comes through in the songs.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMacdonald's singing voice is pure and melancholic, but it's the art of storytelling through song that seems to particularly drive her. \"Most of the songs have been written by bards whose wives have gone away and such things, and they're singing from the place that they come from,\" she said. \"So, I learn quite a few songs from Skye, because I feel like the whole area around me comes through in the songs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlistair MacKay, a freelance filmmaker, studied at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig and later returned to the island with his wife, Angela, to work at the college. They are now raising their three children on Skye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a student, he recalls many a happy night in the Am Pràban bar, where sometimes it was so packed with revellers that you couldn't open the door. He also told me it was so much the place to be that he remembers a local lad who would walk home at the end of the night down the lonesome Ord Road, a journey of two hours or so that seems treacherous even in daytime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETake a short course\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.smo.uhi.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabhal Mòr Ostaig\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers week-long Gaelic language courses over Easter and summer. There's also a busy program of music, Gaelic song, song-writing, art and traditional step dance, alongside a social programme of concerts, cèilidhs, lectures and dances.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAttend a festival\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe Skye-based arts organisation \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.seall.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESEALL\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hosts events across the island, including the autumn Festival of Small Halls and the summer Féis an Eilean.\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESupport local\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ENearby \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farmadalecastle.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArmadale Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E does a lot of work supporting local musicians. Pre-pandemic, it also hosted a Gaelic Arts Week, which hopefully will make a return in 2022.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWatch a session\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFew experiences can be more authentic than toe-tapping or foot-stomping along to a traditional music session in the wood-panelled Am Pràban pub adjoined to the \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fsallycoffey\u002FDownloads\u002Feileaniarmain.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eilean Iarmain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Hotel Eilean Iarmain is also planning more cèilidhs and can recommend local guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to live the life","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMacKay believes the island has so many stories that can help visitors connect to their surroundings and that finding a local guide who can bring the areas alive is crucial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Having someone there that says, 'right that mountain there is Ben na Caillich, which means the mountain of the old lady, and legend has it she was a princess, the daughter of a Norwegian king, and she married a Mackinnon chief' and then suddenly you're like, 'right'. You've seen something in front of you and now it means something,\" he said. \"It's connecting the land, the people, the culture and the sense of place, rather than just driving through a landscape and thinking 'oh well, it's impressive but there's no context there'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMacKay says that though Hotel Eilean Iarmain has long had a Gaelic association and has been rooted in the community, other organisations on Skye, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.feisean.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFèisean nan Gàidheal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.aros.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAros Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portree, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seall.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESEALL\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which runs events such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FSkyeFestival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFèis an Eilein\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Skye Festival), a 10-day celebration of music, literature and theatre – have also long promoted Gaelic culture and encouraged people to slow down and immerse themselves in the island's rich culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMacKay isn't the only one to see the potential of Gaelic tourism. Earlier this year, VisitScotland began to advise tourism businesses on how to capitalise on this aspect of their culture. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Gaelic and its rich culture are an important part of Scotland's tourism offer and strengthens the authentic experience we know means so much to visitors,\" said Rob Dickson, VisitScotland Director of Industry and Destination Development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We believe the language will continue to prove a valuable asset to Scotland's identity, our tourism industry and entice Scots at home to experience something new in Scotland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow that international travellers are finally able to return to Scotland, having a meaningful visit, particularly one that may tie-in with their own heritage, will help enrich their experiences.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my part, I left Eilean Iarmain determined to find the time to return for a course in Gaelic song at the college and reconnect with my own Irish Gaelic heritage. I will never be as melodic as Macdonald, but I think I may just be able to find some of the enjoyment in the singing that she does, and if all else fails, it will make a good story one day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-15T21:05:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A tiny village reviving Gaelic culture","headlineShort":"A tiny village reviving Gaelic culture","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The small town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"57.1463136","longitude":"-5.8254476","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The small town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Since the 1970s, the town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival. Now, a new generation of locals are ready to share their culture with tourists.","summaryShort":"A new generation of locals are now ready to share their culture","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-14T21:05:41.412235Z","entity":"article","guid":"a35060d7-47d9-4689-9ba0-a3329bb56878","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:06.16097Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","_id":"62df7f9843d9f41b075efc99","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI learned several new words during my time in Shetland, the distant island chain drifting between Scotland and Norway. One of them was \u003Cem\u003Eequinoctial\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. It means \"of or relating to the equinox\". It is frequently used to describe equinoctial gales, which can feel relentless this far north when the seasons change in spring and autumn. In a place as exposed to the elements as Shetland, they can be definitive; on its most distant island of Foula, they can act as a sort of gatekeeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003E\"Things are likely to get pretty entertaining,\" said pilot Marshall Wishart as we boarded his BN-2B Islander to fly from the airport outside Shetland's largest town, Lerwick, to the airstrip on Foula, 31 miles west. Our departure had already been delayed by the gales for many hours and for a time the forecast said that no flying would be possible for several days. Instead, however, half-an-hours' notice was given to scramble to the airport and make a narrow weather window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIn a year dominated by domestic travel, Foula has perhaps been the most extreme option available to Brits. Sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule – Latin bywords for extremely remote destinations – it is said to be the most remote inhabited British island, reached by an unpredictable ferry or the frequently hectic 17-minute flight from the Shetland Mainland. Travel due west beyond it and there is nothing but the tumultuous North Atlantic until the east coast of Greenland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EOn the day I flew, the equinoctial gales were strong enough to decapitate any white horses forming below. By that point in early October, the island's ferry hadn't sailed for a couple of weeks and wasn't expected to try again for several more. This meant that the 30 or so permanent residents on the island depended wholly on the vagaries of light aircraft to bring them supplies. \"It could be like this until the next equinox really,\" said Sheila Gear, Foula resident of almost 60 years. \"It's only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you're used to it if you live here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Foula sheep lying on grass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ENonetheless, there is a limited amount of tourism, with just two guest houses – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.selfcateringfoula.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Burns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Faccommodation\u002Fristie-self-catering-p1502271\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and a few camping sites providing accommodation. The majority of visitors are birders, drawn here by the tens of thousands of birds that make this blustery island home over summer. Otherwise, Foula offers few distractions for those not interested in the outdoors: there is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, not even a shop to buy basic supplies. Visitors must bring everything with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ETo some people this is a surprise, but it is not the only one on Foula. Before making the long journey north, I asked some Shetlander friends what to expect. Not only had none of them been before, but they also didn't even know anyone who had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK village that lost its cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA small Scottish isle with a big story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIf outsiders know anything at all about the island it is likely to be that the residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, having refused to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in line with the rest of the country in 1752. They may also know that this was the last place in the United Kingdom to speak a Norse language, Norn. However, they may not be aware that the reason the language finally died out was because of a pandemic – not Covid-19, but smallpox, lethal waves of which washed over the island in the 18th Century, killing the majority of residents. When Foula was repopulated by English-speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EMany of the words that endure today are names of seabirds. There are maalie (northern fulmars), tystie (guillemots), solan gos (gannets) and many more besides. Above them all, stands the great skua, or bonxie as it's known locally. The huge, brown gull-like birds can be difficult creatures to love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EEven Gear, who has spent most of her life around them, finds their characteristics to be challenging, bordering on disgusting. \"The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support,\" she told me, between bonxie stories too upsetting to repeat here. \"Where's that going to end? It's not sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"House with sea stack behind in Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe bonxie has no claws with which to kill its prey. It does, however, have the instincts of a predator, meaning it must use its barbed beak to pitilessly peck at its victims. Lambs are not safe, and even Shetland pony foals can be targeted. One night I saw a dead rabbit on the side of Foula's only significant road; by morning, great skuas had disassembled it to something unrecognisable. The smaller Arctic skua (skooty aalin) is hardly a shrinking violet itself, but even it loses chicks to the bonxies. The island's sturdy crows may have larger brains and a reputation for similarly callous behaviour, but they too give way to the piratical bonxies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EYet even these screaming brigands can't face Foula in winter, instead flying south to Africa to scavenge, rob and kill on a whole new continent before returning in spring. \"For all I've said about them,\" continued Gear, as though trying to strike a conciliatory tone, \"we're still really glad to see them come back each time. They're part of life here and we're fond of them, even if we're not so fond of their behaviour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EBirds aside, there is extraordinary beauty on Foula, too. The majority of the settlement is on the east side of the island, sheltering from the most violent of the North Atlantic's furies. Disparate farms are surrounded by peat moss bogs that are dutifully patrolled by mismatching Foula sheep and Shetland ponies. While these scenes can look pretty, especially with the island's satisfying ruddy hills in the background, the north coast is significantly more beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIt's there that Garda stands, a hulking three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean. The same is true nearby at the sensational Da Kame, the site of most of Foula's birds' nests. They have picked an exceptionally scenic spot; among the highest cliffs in Europe, this vast avian city looks especially dramatic at day's end when the sun's dying rays bounce off its mighty walls as waves crash in below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe granite landscape does a lot better here than metal – salty gales eat at vehicles, meaning they rarely last more than a few years. Up and down the road, I saw abandoned cars stripped to skeletons by the elements. When I took a walk to the island's graveyard, I found that the same wind had feasted on headstones, leaving most of them unreadable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coastline of Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI explained to Gear that while I thoroughly enjoyed my time on her island, I had no notion to move there. I would wilt in the face of its challenges. \"It can be a difficult place, especially in winter,\" she replied with a slight chuckle. \"There's the darkness and the continual wind and rain. Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it. The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EA hard island for hard people and even harder birds. Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage, summed it up on one especially windy morning. \"This is not a place where humanity is in the ascendency,\" he said. \"It's just clinging on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-09T20:41:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Foula: Britain's most remote inhabited island","headlineShort":"Britain's most remote inhabited island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.1313","longitude":"-2.0695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","summaryShort":"Only around 30 permanent residents live on Foula","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","entity":"article","guid":"f0feb26a-d291-45df-a4fb-ece8fa8711a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T03:53:28.950894Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam","_id":"62df810b43d9f46d9717b1e9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Long only accessible by sea, Eriskay's isolation has protected the Eriskay pony, one of the UK's oldest and rarest breeds and the last remnant of Scotland's native horse.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStrung off the western coast of Scotland and regularly lashed by the North Atlantic, the Western Isles can often feel like a severe and lonely place. On the small Hebridean island of Eriskay, I followed a single road through a stark, treeless landscape dominated by the greys and deep greens of its rocky slopes. To the north, a sparse scattering of sturdy houses were braced against the wind while a stretch of white-sand beach brightened the island's western edge. If Eriskay appeared a rugged place, it was an appearance that seemed to reflect its endurance against hardships wrought by both nature and history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEriskay resembles an asterisk at the end of a string of bigger islands: North Uist; Benbecula; and South Uist. Only 2.5 miles long and 1.5 miles wide, Eriskay is the final link in the chain of causeways that tether the islands together, its connection to South Uist completed just 20 years ago. Long accessible only by sea, road access stabilised its then-drastically declining population – islanders can now work or study off-island while still living on Eriskay – and eased travel for visitors. Yet that long isolation had its benefits. It protected such idiosyncratic attractions as the Eriskay Pony, one of the UK's oldest and rarest breeds and the last remnant of Scotland's native horse. As I walked, I spotted a herd grazing high on the hill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy carrying peat and seaweed on their backs, the small, hardy and docile ponies were once crucial to croft work. Every island family used to have a pony, said Sandra MacInnes, secretary of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eriskaypony.scot\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComann Each nan Eilean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Eriskay Pony Society). \"They wouldn't have survived without the pony. They wouldn't have got peat to keep them warm, they wouldn't have got seaweed to help [fertilise] the crops.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut by the 1970s, largely due to cross breeding and the rise in use of motor vehicles for transportation and work, they'd come close to extinction. While a number of pure mares survived, there was only one purebred stallion, named Eric, left. Founded in 1972, the society helped bring the breed back from the brink. While still categorised as critically endangered, there are now 300 in the UK, all descended from Eric.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Eriskay Ponies on the beach at Eriskay","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe formation of the pony society occurred at a time of increasing cultural awareness and confidence in Scotland. The Scottish National Party (SNP) gained its first MP in 1967, and the ponies may have been a beneficiary of the more assured national mood. In his research into the pony society's formation, Liam Crouse, PhD researcher at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.smo.uhi.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabhal Mòr Ostaig UHI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E college, learned that its early membership \"included some notable SNP members, as well as some of the Gaelic intelligentsia at a national level\". He said he's \"trying to piece together the impetuses of the instigation of the society in 1972, but I think it is a combination of an increasingly confident Scottish cultural society and the realisation in Eriskay that these ponies were both unique and rare.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe revival of Eriskay's ponies is just one part of the island's reclamation of its history. For years, Eriskay was better known for what had arrived on its shores than for its own rich heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's little-known Highlanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British island where wallabies rule\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210425-ulva-the-uk-island-waiting-to-be-discovered\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK island waiting to be discovered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHome to around 130 majority Catholic and Gaelic-speaking residents, Eriskay may be small but it has found itself at the centre of several dramatic events. It was on Eriskay's stretch of silvery sand, now known as Coilleag a' Phrionnsa, or \"the Prince's Cockle Strand\", that in 1745 Charles Edward Stuart (better-known as Bonnie Prince Charlie) first set foot in Scotland to launch his doomed Jacobite uprising to retake the British throne. The consequences, following defeat the next year at the Battle of Culloden, were disastrous for the Highlands and Islands. Britain terrorised them through indiscriminate killing; dismantled social structures by breaking up clans; and attempted to erase cultural identity through banning the wearing of tartan and suppressing the use of Gaelic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe second event that has long defined the island occurred in 1941, when the SS Politician, carrying some 22,000 cases of fine malt whisky in its hold, struck submerged sandbanks off Eriskay. Having first helped to rescue the crew, the islanders soon set about liberating the whisky in the belief that the cargo was theirs under the \"rules of salvage\". UK Customs and Excise took a different view. Islanders' homes were raided and several were tried for illegal salvaging, smuggling and black market selling of goods and sentenced to prison. Despite this dark end to the story, and islanders' lingering sense of injustice, writer Compton Mackenzie spun the tale into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fwhisky-galore-9781784870942\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhisky Galore!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a novel later made into a comedy film.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"White sand beach and blue sea at Eriskay island, UK","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Eriskay's lone pub, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitouterhebrides.co.uk\u002Ffood-and-drink\u002Feat-drink-hebrides-am-politician-p562251\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAm Politician\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, embraces the history. It's decorated with photos of the SS Politician and has a handful of salvaged, still unopened whisky bottles tucked behind the bar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisiting such celebrated sites as the pub and the prince’s beach is easier now that there's road access to Eriskay. Travellers can just pop over for a few hours, check them off, then turn back north towards the Outer Hebrides. But in recent years, islanders have been working on ways to entice visitors to stay longer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI had travelled the old, slow way, coming north by sea from the island of Barra, and chose to stay a while, booking a few nights at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitouterhebrides.co.uk\u002Faccommodation\u002Foir-na-mara-p520071\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOir na Mara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bed and breakfast. With plenty of time to fill, I set out to walk around the coastline. At several particularly scenic spots I came across laminated pages of poetry tucked into boxes. They seemed to make up a curious scavenger hunt scattered across the island. Titled Maighstir Ailein's Poetry Trail, each page featured verses in Gaelic and English from \u003Cem\u003EEilein na h-Òige\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Isle of Youth) written at the turn of the 20th Century by Father Allan MacDonald, whose careful documentation of the Gaelic oral tradition – the songs, poems and folk tales that made up a vibrant cultural heritage then on the verge of disappearing – helped to rescue it from oblivion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you're growing up in a community, you perhaps don't give it credit for how distinctive that community is","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe poetry trail had been put together by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FComann-Eachdraidh-Eirisgeidh-CEE-Eriskay-Historical-Society-1669634723268193\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComann Eachdraidh Eirisgeidh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Eriskay Historical Society). The society was established in 2010 to collect and preserve materials of historical value to the island, something that hadn't been done much before. \"When you're growing up in a community, you perhaps don't give it credit for how distinctive that community is,\" said Iain Ruaraidh, the society's chairperson. Initiatives such as the poetry trail encourage a deeper exploration of Eriskay's heritage, and the society recently purchased the island's school, closed since 2013, to turn into a heritage centre where visitors can learn more – it's currently one of the few islands in the Outer Hebrides that lacks one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Eriskay Causeway connecting Eriskay to South Uist Outer Hebrides Scotland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater, at the B&B, I asked where it might be possible to see the ponies up-close, as I'd been under the impression that they wandered wild across the island. Without hesitation, the owner Iagan drove me to see some of his. I was only half mistaken: the ponies spend the summer grazing on the hill of Beinn Sciathan to allow crops to grow in the settlements, but they spend their winters roaming freely in the township. As I petted the ponies, Iagan told me that he wished more people were interested in them so they could rebound further. Thanks to the pony society, which has stepped up promotion of the breed in recent years, he may soon get his wish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe historical society plans to promote the breed in the new heritage centre, too. \"We're trying to get people more aware of the Eriskay ponies and get them into breeding them themselves and using them throughout the islands and on the mainland,\" said MacInnes. \"We're also going to teach traditional skills like making creels [wicker baskets] and taking the ponies down to the beach for seaweed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's all part of embracing Eriskay's heritage and reclaiming what makes this island so unique, and, she said, going \"back to the traditional skills to show people how it was\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-30T17:59:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Scottish isle where native ponies roam","headlineShort":"A small Scottish isle with a big story","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View over the island of Eriskay in the Hebrides","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"57.0727","longitude":"-7.2924","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View over the island of Eriskay in the Hebrides","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long only accessible by sea, Eriskay's isolation has protected the Eriskay pony, one of the UK's oldest and rarest breeds and the last remnant of Scotland's native horse.","summaryShort":"Tiny Eriskay has found itself at the centre of several dramatic events","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-29T18:01:13.511096Z","entity":"article","guid":"014c8e62-091a-4e72-9e2b-b4988f162d6e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T03:50:30.841449Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed","_id":"62df815c43d9f46d1a3a0e7c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkirsten-henton"],"bodyIntro":"Orkney's northernmost island, North Ronaldsay, is home to a rare and ancient breed of hardy beasts that have adapted to thrive on a seaweed diet.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, the northernmost speck on the map of Orkney could easily be overlooked. Yet, the rocky shore of low-lying North Ronaldsay is anything but ordinary. Venture to this tiny Scottish isle and you'll find the tallest land-based lighthouse in the UK, the ruins of an Iron Age broch (a type of drystone roundhouse) and – most bizarrely – a flock of wild-eyed short-legged beasts with a diet that's as unusual as their remote habitat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENorth Ronaldsay sheep are one of the oldest and rarest breeds in the world. They are descended from traditional Orkney sheep, a species of Northern European short-tail sheep, that were seen across the Orkney Islands for centuries. However, in most places, the small, slow-growing sheep eventually made way for breeds better suited to large-scale, commercial farming such as Cheviots and Leicesters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut not on North Ronaldsay. Here, the local farmers' deep attachment to the animals and unconventional approach to tending them ensured the island's traditional sheep were retained – and they remain intertwined with the island's identity today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb728"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETaking the morning ferry from Kirkwall, Orkney's main town, I sailed the 36 miles north, binoculars glued to my eyes watching black guillemots bobbing in the water and the odd gannet and fulmar swooping across the stern. Getting to North Ronaldsay is very much in the hands of the weather and tidal gods. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.orkneyferries.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrkney Ferries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E operates a two-and-a-half-hour service from Kirkwall, which can be somewhat unpredictable; while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.loganair.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELoganair\u003C\u002Fa\u003E runs multiple 17-minute flights daily that are also weather dependent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI disembarked under a welcome blue sky to find a bicycle leaning against the small ferry terminal, as promised by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northronaldsay.co.uk\u002Ftransport.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth Ronaldsay bike hire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. At around four miles long and two miles wide, and with virtually no public transport, North Ronaldsay's gently rolling landscape is best navigated on two wheels and this was the logical way for me to go sheep-spotting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few wheel-turns up from the pier was the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nrbo.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth Ronaldsay Bird Observatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the beating heart of the community. The island is a popular stopping-off point for migratory birds, such as whinchats, wheatears, spotted flycatchers and, if you're lucky, rare bluethroats, and this centre monitors them all. It also has a restaurant where some of the island's 50 inhabitants come to dine (I spied \"North Ronaldsay mutton\" scrawled on the chalkboard) and overnight accommodations for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's also where Heather Woodbridge, an instantly impressive young woman who wears many hats – including those of deputy leader of Orkney Islands Council, director of The North Ronaldsay Trust and trustee of The Orkney Sheep Foundation – helps out as an administrator. In addition, she manages a flock of North Ronaldsay sheep, which I could see grazing between the picture windows and the sun-dappled bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb6x5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI peered out at the sheep admiring their squat stature and shaggy coats, which varied in colour from white to creams, near-orangey hues and very dark browns. Rams looked on formidably, lashes beating between large, curled horns, near sweet, soft-faced ewes. It was easy to see why Woodbridge said she and her mother have poured \"years of love and nurturing\" into looking after their animals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe sheep may be the superstars of the island today, but their story is one of survival for both man and beast. In the 19th Century, the island was struggling with poverty when its main business of exporting kelp (the iodine-rich ashes of which could be used to make antiseptic balms, soap, glass and pottery) collapsed due to the influx of cheaper European iodine blocks. This led to rural unemployment, but the Laird, or landowner, of North Ronaldsay was quick to introduce a new economy in the shape of cattle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Within a short time period, the sheep adapted to be very efficient at getting their nutrients from the kelp","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a bid to conserve the valuable grass for the more profitable cows, sheep were excluded from inland grazing in 1832 by a 13-mile-long drystone wall, known as the sheep dyke, that was laboriously hand-built to encircle the entire island. The sheep, confined to the shore and cut off from the rest of the island, quickly adapted to a diet of kelp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Within a short time period, the sheep adapted to be very efficient at getting their nutrients from the kelp,\" Woodbridge said. \"Now, when they come back to the grass, they are so good at extracting minerals they can get a bit ill, so they can't stay on grass for too long.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb6rb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheir isolation has also meant that their genetics remain virtually unchanged from those of their ancestors. When DNA tests were carried out on sheep bones found at the Iron Age broch, it showed that those grazing today were genetically identical to the sheep that had grazed thousands of years previously – even if their diet has changed somewhat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat's more, the island's sheep live longer than most other commercial sheep breeds, which are bred to be big, quickly. According to Woodbridge, North Ronaldsay sheep are naturally small and \"slow-growing\", so it takes them around four years to reach their peak size and weight, making the meat mutton, not lamb when it reaches the plate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis ageing, combined with the seaweed diet, gives these nimble-footed beasts a distinctive flavour. \"The meat is very lean and rich, and it does have a different taste to Scottish lamb,\" said Woodbridge. \"People describe it as 'gamey'. If it's cooked in the right way – traditionally you'd roast it all day, five hours in the oven – slow-roasted mutton is absolutely delicious, it's just fantastic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScott Smith, chef and co-owner of award-winning contemporary Scottish restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffhior.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFhior\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Edinburgh, agrees. He recently chose North Ronaldsay meat for his inaugural \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffhior.com\u002Fnorth-ronaldsay-dinner\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENative & Rare dining experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The North Ronaldsay breed is so unique,\" he said. \"Although you don't taste the seaweed or coastal herbs in the meat, they give it a unique salinity and a very concentrated flavour. It is like comparing farmed duck to wild.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb6pq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd it doesn't stop with the meat. Their thick fleeces make premium wool that's spun locally in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northronaldsay.co.uk\u002Fwool-mill.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth Ronaldsay's very own mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I popped in for a brief tour of the mill, which is currently running at full capacity due to high demand for this \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.northronaldsayyarn.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eundyed wool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, before taking a breather at the Lighthouse Café under the watchful beams of the grand old Victorian lighthouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack on my bike, I passed sheep clip-clopping along the shore. Each animal in the 2,000-strong flock is individually owned, but the flock as a whole is communally farmed, and it's been done this way for centuries. According to the Orkney Sheep Foundation, they're the only domesticated sheep in Scotland still under a communal system of farming, whereby each shepherd keeps an eye on them as they make their way around the shore. \"They run as a flock, so it's a community effort to manage them as a whole,\" Woodbridge said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese traditions can also be seen in the wonderfully named Sheep Court, which was established in 1839 to manage the flock. Still in operation today, it consists of elected (human) members and is presided over by the Laird, with its purpose to settle disputes and ensure that the sheep dyke is well-maintained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis 190-year-old \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fportal.historicenvironment.scot\u002Fdesignation\u002FLB46400\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGrade A-listed structure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is constructed from smooth, flat rocks that wash up on the beach, frequently topples in sections, be it from the winds or, commonly, from sheep having a good scratch against it. It requires careful reconstruction to allow just the right sizes of gaps to let it \"breathe\" and give a little in the gales that can whip the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb6hv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the years following the building of the dyke, when the island's human population was still in the hundreds, one of the early tasks of the Sheep Court was to divide the sheep dyke into \"chains\", a measurement of length used to allocate responsibility for the dyke. How many chains a household had depended on the size of the croft or farmstead (which also determined the number of sheep they could keep). Over the past decades, younger generations have increasingly left to find education and work elsewhere, leaving just nine farmers with the overwhelming task of maintaining the dyke.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor North Ronaldsay residents, dyke \"bygging\", or building, has always been a major social event, when family members return and the community pulls together to rebuild broken sections of the wall. But, in 2016, it became clear that they needed more hands, and so \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nrsheepfestival.com\u002Fhome\"\u003ESheepFest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was born. The annual summer festival invites volunteers to the island to help rebuild the sheep dyke for a week or two while immersing themselves in local hospitality, music and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter the success of SheepFest, the island created the position of sheep dyke warden in 2019. Siân Tarrant, the first, moved from East Sussex village of Icklesham to take up the post. For two years she worked to repair the dyke, but admitted it was a \"Sisyphean task [given that] there is so much of the wall to rebuild and repair, roughly a quarter of the 13-mile long structure\". The island is currently advertising for a new warden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECycling under a hazy sun, I passed an alarming number of abandoned farmsteads, their broken walls and buckled roofs testament to the depopulation suffered here over the centuries. They're also a stark reminder of the challenges faced in this isolated outpost. Without young farmers willing to continue the tradition of rearing these sheep, their very existence will be called into question.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjb63q"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut this is something Tarrant, who \"loved being out on the coast each day and learning about the island's heritage\", is tackling head-on. In 2021, she and her partner Olly invested in a croft in need of some TLC and soon opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.milldamcroft.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMilldam Croft\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a renovated farmstead where visitors can meet, and even support through adoption, their growing flock of North Ronaldsay sheep. Guests can also take a croft tour or stay overnight in a glamping tent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOpting for a speedier route back to Kirkwall, I returned my bike to the shed in front of North Ronaldsay's airport and left the required fee in the honesty box. Having bundled into Loganair's snug, eight-seater aircraft, I was soon bouncing along the runway, swooping up and over the green fields and rocky shoreline dotted with sheep below. In the afternoon sunshine, it was an idyllic sight and all too easy to dream of a life-altering move to fill the currently-vacant sheep dyke warden post – but I think I'll try a week at SheepFest first. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-13T10:37:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Scotland's rare seaweed-eating sheep","headlineShort":"A Scottish beast isolated for centuries","image":["p0cjb759"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"59.3720","longitude":"-2.4189","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cjb6rb"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Orkney's northernmost island, North Ronaldsay, is home to a rare and ancient breed of hardy beasts that have adapted to thrive on a seaweed diet.","summaryShort":"These wild-eyed, short-legged sheep have been reared solely on seaweed","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-12T19:40:14.848561Z","entity":"article","guid":"c5d24441-d025-41b4-b640-4e66a322a2c5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-20T15:30:32.665249Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fscotland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_scotland_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best","_id":"62df813a43d9f46da86e4cd9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The artisan bread-making movement is flourishing in homes worldwide, but it’s in San Francisco where the heart of sourdough still resides.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen James W Marshall discovered gold in the hills north of San Francisco in 1848, it sparked a migration of epic proportions. Within a year, tens of thousands of immigrants from both across the country and around the globe had relocated to the Californian city and its surroundings, carrying with them basic necessities like clothing; carpentry tools; and coffee, sugar and flour. However, there was one staple item that would become a part of the city’s history forever: starter for bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Baking sourdough is an amazing opportunity for patience and presence","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a place where nourishment was scarce, bread starter (a dough that has fermented using naturally occurring bacteria and yeast) was a prized possession during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb05nxgdd\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornia Gold Rush\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, allowing miners to turn drab flour into loaves that were both nutritious and delicious. Somehow, the bread tasted tangier and more flavourful than it did elsewhere, and thus San Francisco sourdough was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMore than 170 years later, San Francisco is synonymous with sourdough bread. Patrons line up daily for fresh-from-the-oven loaves at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftartinebakery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETartine Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city’s Mission District; and at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.themillsf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a whole-grain sourdough bakery and independent coffee shop just west of San Francisco’s famed “\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fprogrammes\u002Freal_cities\u002F8176623.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPainted Ladies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” Victorians. Walk into any local market and you’ll find baskets filled with sourdough baguettes from the Bay Area’s own \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Facmebread.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAcme Bread\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.semifreddis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESemifreddi’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; or make a stop at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboudinbakery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoudin Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the tourist hub of Fisherman’s Wharf, where steaming clam chowder comes served in carved-out loaves of the bakery’s own sourdough bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith the advent of “sheltering-in-place”, the artisan bread-making movement is now flourishing in homes worldwide, but it’s in San Francisco where the heart of sourdough bread-baking still resides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sourdough has a very rich history in San Francisco,” said Josey Baker, founder of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.joseybakerbread.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJosey Baker Bread\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and co-owner of The Mill, where he bakes and sells his creations. “Though a lot of people have the misunderstanding that it was invented here, or that San Francisco is the only place where you can make it.” Neither of which, Baker says, is true.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Waterford blaa changed breakfast in Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191125-turkeys-ancient-tradition-of-paying-it-forward\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETurkey’s ancient tradition of paying it forward\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170711-the-icelandic-bread-thats-baked-in-the-ground\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Icelandic bread that’s baked in the ground\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERumours often swirl about the city’s relentless fog playing a role in the taste of its sourdough, cultivating a type of wild bacteria that only exists in San Francisco. There’s also the fact that it was California miners making their way to north Alaska and Canada for the Klondike Gold Rush, and bringing their sourdough starters with them, who earned the nickname “sourdoughs”, because they would actually cuddle with their starters on cold nights to keep the yeast active. These men became known for their fresh bread and assured their own nourishment in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen there’s Boudin Bakery, considered San Francisco’s oldest continuously operating business, which has been churning out loaves of sourdough bread since first opening its doors in 1849 – just one year after Marshall discovered gold at Sutter’s Mill. Founder Isidore Boudin, a French immigrant and bakers’ son, obtained the bakery’s original wild yeast starter from a gold miner, and they’ve been using the same mother dough (another name for sourdough starter) for more than 170 years. An interesting tidbit: it was actually Louise Boudin, wife of the then-late Isidore, who saved Boudin’s mother dough from destruction during San Francisco’s legendary 1906 earthquake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother link between San Francisco and sourdough bread: the region’s long-running, ingredients-focused ethos. “Here in the Bay Area we have a really high level of interest in the valuing of food,” said Baker, “and sourdough is both healthier and more labour-intensive than your average loaf. I own a whole-grain sourdough bread bakery. It’s not lost on me that if I try and open up something similar in most other parts of the country, it just wouldn’t work.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite all the connections and stories, sourdough isn’t endemic to San Francisco. Actually, it’s one of the oldest bread types – a fermented and leavened dough that dates back at least 4,500 years to ancient Egypt. What makes sourdough unique is the symbiotic relationship between its wild yeasts and various bacteria species such as lactobacilli that occur naturally when left alone, though according to Baker, there are various opinions on how the bread truly originated. One plausible tale, he said, is that someone had prepared a porridge with coarsely ground grains, and then left it alone for a few days. “During that time, it started bubbling and smelling sort of funny,” said Baker. “It likely sat in the sun, and eventually baked up into something that was both more delicious and more nourishing than its unfermented predecessor.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1970s, researchers Frank Sugihara and Leo Kline set out to discover just what kind of lactic acid microbe – similar to the ones found in yogurt or kimchi – was providing San Francisco sourdough with its characteristic taste. They happened upon a then-uncatalogued bacterium, so they gave it a name: \u003Cem\u003Elactobacillus sanfranciscensis,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E after San Francisco, still believing it was Bay Area-unique. However, \u003Cem\u003El."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause of yeast shortages at grocery stores during Covid-19, many sourdough-loving San Franciscans are turning to “Victory Dough” and are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhoodline.com\u002F2020\u002F03\u002Famid-home-baking-craze-san-franciscans-get-creative-to-swap-sourdough-starter-at-a-safe-distance\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebartering bread starters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – at a safe distance, of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Fun fact","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"sanfranciscensis \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ehas since been discovered in approximately 90 other countries, thriving in growing conditions that include a pH range of 3.9 to 6.7 and fermentation temperatures between 20°C and 27°C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, regardless of where it’s produced, Baker stresses that what really makes a good sourdough bread is this taste. “San Francisco sourdough as a bread style has a characteristically tangy flavour profile,” he said, “which is really due to the acetic acid (another acid that forms during fermentation).” Yet its flavour profile has more recently shifted to something much milder, with many bakers (Baker included) balancing the bread’s lactic acid sourness with the nuance and characteristics of the grains that are employed in that particular loaf.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rather than flavouring from fermentation,” said Baker, “the dominant force at work here is the grains from which each loaf of bread is made. Less of the acetic acid (think vinegar), and more of a sweet lactic acid-forward fermentation (think yogurt).”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother sourdough perk? It’s good for you. The natural bacteria and yeasts in the sourdough starter make for a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fhealth-benefits-offermenting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehealthier gut\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and help pre-digest some of the flour – providing a break for our own digestive systems. Sourdough also keeps better because of the natural preservatives formed by the sourdough culture’s organisms. “Flavour, digestibility, keeping qualities,” said Baker. “In my eyes, it’s all pretty appealing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBaker got his start in the kitchen of a Mission District apartment just more than a decade ago, obtaining a starter from a friend that he still uses today. “It was this weird-looking little lump,” he said, “originating with flour and water – nothing else.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne thing he quickly learned: sourdough is not fool proof, like a yeasted bread. It takes time and nurturing. You begin with a starter, which Baker said you can make on your own with a combination of flour and water, or obtain one instead. Many home bread-makers and local bakeries will offer a bit of their starter upon request, including The Mill. “We’ve always done a barter,” said Baker, “though it used to be that people had to give us a poem of their own creation. Lately we’ve opened it up so that you trade whatever you like. Some people give us a six-pack of beer, others ice cream... A customer recently traded us a jar of 100 handmade paper cranes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe also suggested steering clear of dried-out starters that are mass produced, which do nothing for the bread’s flavour or nutritional value. “[With a starter] what you’re doing is coaxing the wild yeast and bacteria that’s already present on the grain,” Baker said, “into a population that’s conducive to getting the characteristics in the finished loaf of bread that you want.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo do this, he said, you basically mix a quarter of a cup of flour and water (35g flour and 60g water) together and you let it sit for a day. Then you throw out all of it apart from a little bit, and you do it again. “Repeat this for two weeks and it’ll most likely result in a healthy and active sourdough starter,” said Baker, meaning it’s creating lots of bubbles and floats easily in a glass of water\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, “most likely” refers to the fact that not all flour is created equal. “If you’re working with bleached, conventional white flour that’s been sitting in a warehouse for two years,” Baker said, “you’re much less likely to produce a healthy, active starter than, say, whole grain, which has a lot more good stuff in it that not only our bodies, but also the microorganisms, really like.” For his own purposes, Baker especially likes whole grain rye flour, available at speciality markets such as Whole Foods in the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce you have your starter, you can begin making your bread – a process that Baker says generally takes one to two days. “All you really need is a thermometer, a bowl and either a [baking] stone or Dutch oven for baking,” he said. “Although a stand mixer is handy for folding the dough, it’s not necessary. I actually recommend doing it all by hand, to get a feel for the process.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s this overall process, said Baker, that is the ultimate key to sourdough bread-baking. “In these days of Instagram and Facebook it’s easy to see the glory shots from everyone’s successes,” he said, “but the reality is that there are a lot of failures that happen outside of that little window. Baking sourdough is an amazing opportunity for patience and presence, and then you get to share it with someone.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E***\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJosey Baker sourdough bread recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E(makes 2 loaves)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1 – Sourdough starter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor this recipe, you’ll need a sourdough starter, which is a small amount of fermented dough made with natural bacteria and yeast. If you can’t get one from your local bakery or a friend, you can make one by combining 35g flour and 60g water together and letting the mixture sit out on the counter (covered) for at least a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo begin your sourdough bread dough, you need to first feed and activate your starter:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E \u003Cli\u003EIf at room temperature, mix 10g starter, 100g lukewarm water (about 29°C) and 100g rye flour in a small container, and repeat every day until ready to use (for at least two weeks if making your own starter from scratch).\u003C\u002Fli\u003E \u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cul\u003E \u003Cli\u003EIf in the fridge, mix 10g starter, 90g lukewarm water (about 29°C) and 100g rye flour, and feed once every week; then two to three days before making your preferment (see next step), take out of the fridge and keep at room temperature, feeding daily until ready to use.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E \u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENote: With each feeding, you can either discard the unused portion of starter or use it for another purpose.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe starter is ready to use around 12-24 hours after the last feeding. When your starter is ready, it should smell yogurty and pleasantly sour, have a good amount of bubbles, and pass “the float test” by dropping a tablespoon of starter in water: if it floats, it’s ready.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2 – Preferment\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMix together 20g active starter, 90g whole wheat flour and 90g lukewarm water. Be sure to do this 12-24 hours before you plan to mix your dough (see next step). By that time, it should be nice and bubbly and look like thick pancake batter. And again, use the float test to make sure it’s ready.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou can control your preferment’s pace by controlling the temperature of the water and where you place the mixture in your home; try to keep the mixture between 24-29°C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3 – Mixing the dough\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E200g active starter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g wholegrain wheat flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g bread flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E800g warm water (29°C)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E20g sea salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMix together everything except the salt and about 100g of the water until no dry spots remain. Let the dough rest for 20 minutes. Control the fermentation speed by again controlling the temperatures of the water and dough; keep dough ideally around 26-28°C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdd the remaining water and salt, and mix. Let dough rest for another 30 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKeeping dough in the bowl, stretch and fold it upwards while rotating the bowl to give it strength and redistribute the yeast and warmth. When it starts to tear, it’s ready to rest. Repeat two more times at 30- to 45-minute intervals. Let it rest for another 20 minutes before shaping the loaves (see next step).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4 – Shaping the loaves\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen your dough is nice and billowy (about 1.5x the volume), it’s ready for shaping.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELightly flour your surface and gently drop out your dough. Divide in half (to make two loaves).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFold up the bottom of each piece of dough 2\u002F3rds the way, and then stretch the top and fold down 2\u002F3rds, like a three-fold letter going into an envelope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERotate the one of the pieces of dough 90° so the seam is vertical; if the seam is too far to one side, just shimmy it back towards the middle. Roll the dough from the top towards you and end when the seam faces you, then seal it on all sides by using the palm of your hand to press together the seam. Repeat with other piece of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDust dough lightly with flour, then use a bench scraper to pick up one piece of dough (keeping all the tension in the dough), and place it seam-side up inside a lightly floured basket or bowl to rest. Repeat with other piece of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELeave the loaves out on the counter at room temperature (uncovered) for 2-3 hours, or in the fridge for 10-20 hours, until the they have risen by about 1.5x.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5 – Baking\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHeat oven to 245°C; also preheat your cast iron Dutch oven or baking stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGently drop your dough out of its basket onto parchment paper or a cutting board. Carefully score the top of the dough with a lame (or sharp knife or scissors) and place it into your Dutch oven or onto your baking stone with the seam facing down. Cover immediately to keep steam in (if using a baking stone, you can cover with a metal bowl). Repeat with second loaf.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENote: If you don’t have a Dutch oven or baking stone, you can bake your bread in an oiled loaf pan; just be sure to cover it with foil, leaving a tented space for the dough to rise while baking.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBake loaves for 20 minutes and then uncover (carefully as the steam will be hot!). Bake for another 30-40 minutes or until bread registers 88-96°C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELet bread rest for at least 30 minutes to finish baking internally and cool down. Then have a feast and share the bread with someone you love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E***\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots-at-home\"\u003ECulinary Roots at Home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that looks at trending recipes and traces their origins, offering the story behind the dish as well as easy tips on how to make them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-03T14:49:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why San Francisco does sourdough best","headlineShort":"Why San Francisco does sourdough best","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The artisan bread-making movement is flourishing in homes worldwide, but it’s in San Francisco where the heart of sourdough still resides.","summaryShort":"One of the world’s oldest bread types is making a comeback","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:47:03.489827Z","entity":"article","guid":"dba817a4-e7a5-48a4-a15d-b444ab0eb2ff","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:06:54.104068Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","_id":"62df820c43d9f46d8b28b255","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Every year, Paris holds a Grand Prix to crown the city’s best baguette – and in recent years, the winners have been bakers whose ‘origins’ are far from France.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStroll through Paris first thing in the morning, and you’ll see lines of people snaking out of their local boulangeries for their morning bread. That’s because, throughout France, getting up early and buying a baguette is more than second nature; it’s a way of life. According to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.observatoiredupain.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EObservatoire du Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (yes, France has a scientific ‘Bread Observatory’), the French consume 320 baguettes every second – that’s an average of half a baguette per person per day and 10 billion every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s no surprise, then, that France takes its baguettes seriously. In fact, every April since 1994, a jury of experts has been gathering in Paris for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.paris.fr\u002Fprixdelabaguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grand Prix de la Baguette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: a competition to determine who makes the very best in the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190804-why-the-french-love-to-say-no\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy the French love to say no\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190404-the-massive-cost-of-saving-notre-dame\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe massive cost of saving Notre-Dame\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe bread that changed how the Irish eat breakfast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach year, some 200 bakers in Paris enter the competition, delivering two of their best baguettes to a panel of expert jurors first thing in the morning. The baguettes are inspected to ensure that they measure between 55-65cm in length and weigh between 250-300g. Less than half of the 400-plus baguettes that are entered into the competition meet these strict criteria and move on to round two: judging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the next round, the 14-member jury – which includes culinary journalists, the previous year’s winner and a few lucky volunteers – analyse the remaining loaves based on five distinct categories: \u003Cem\u003Ela cuisson \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(baking), \u003Cem\u003El’aspect\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (appearance), \u003Cem\u003El’odeur \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(smell), \u003Cem\u003Ele goût\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (taste) and the oh-so-French \u003Cem\u003Ela mie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (crumb). A baguette’s crumb should be tender but not damp; spring back when pressed; and exhibit the large, irregular holes that show it has been allowed to slowly ferment and develop flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You could have exactly the same recipe, and if one person is more passionate than the other, they’ll have a better result","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast year’s champion, Mahmoud M’Seddi, was the youngest-ever winner of the annual competition, at age 27. “I was lucky enough to grow up in a bakery,” recounted M’Seddi, as he led me past his irregular, hand-formed loaves at his small Boulangerie M’Seddi Moulins des Prés, in the 13th arrondissement. “I grew up with my parents, as opposed to kids who were in day care or with nannies. I was always in the bakery.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi’s passion for baking is palpable and stems from his father. Originally from Tunisia, M’Seddi’s father arrived in France in the late 1980s while pursuing a degree in electrical engineering. “During his school vacation, he came to Paris to work in a bakery to make some pocket money, and he fell in love [with bread making]. He didn’t finish his studies. Instead, he started working as a baker,“ M’Seddi recounted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi has fond memories of watching his father turn dough into baton-shaped baguettes and working alongside him as a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was like being a magician,” he recalled. “That’s how I saw myself when I was small, mixing things together. I had so much fun doing it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough his mother warned him against becoming a professional baker because of the gruelling hours and lack of holiday time, M’Seddi decided to join the family business. M’Seddi and his father now run three Parisian bakeries: Boulangerie M’Seddi Moulin des Près, located just south of the picturesque Butte aux Cailles neighbourhood; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBoulangerie-Maison-Mseddi-347075965661506\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoulangerie Maison M’Seddi Tolbiac\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a few hundred metres away; and Boulangerie Maison M’Seddi in the 14th arrondissement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi gets up each day at 04:00 to begin preparing the dough for his now-famous loaves, which are made entirely by hand. Fat in shape and lightly caramelised on the outside, they are the epitome of what a truly good Parisian baguette should be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut he keeps the secrets of his perfect baguette under wraps. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I won’t tell,” said M’Seddi with a wry smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to 2017 winner Sami Bouattour, baguette perfection is just as elusive as M’Seddi is making it out to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I was on the jury,” Bouattour said, “it was easy to pick the 10 or 20 baguettes that stood out. But after that, when you’re comparing number three and number eight, the differences are so small.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor M’Seddi, the magic that makes his baguette stand out from the billions of others consumed in France each year is simple: passion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You could have exactly the same recipe,” he said. “And if one person is more passionate than the other, they’ll have a better result. Even if you’ve done exactly the same thing, it won’t be the same. It’s like magic.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi has earned the right to place a large, gold decal in his bakery window advertising his status as a champion of the baguette. But that’s not all. Each year’s winner also has the honour of supplying the president of France with his daily bread – a privilege M’Seddi proudly shared with the public by publishing videos on social media of his early-morning routine toting a basket of fresh baguettes towards the immense Elysée Palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEmmanuel Macron is evidently quite passionate about France’s loaf-making legacy: in 2018, the president \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-42674724\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einsisted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the French baguette be granted Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage status. Neapolitan pizza, Croatian gingerbread and flatbread from Central Asia already appear on the Unesco list. But according to Macron, “the baguette is the envy of the whole world”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while there are few symbols as quintessentially French as the baguette, its status – and quality – have been \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20131007-the-death-of-the-french-baguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euncertain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in recent years. Beginning in the 1950s, bakers began looking for shortcuts to make baguettes more quickly: relying on frozen, pre-made dough; and baking baguettes in moulds rather than free form. Instead of the crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside loaves that M’Seddi bakes every morning, these pale, doughy baguettes became stale almost the moment they cooled down. By the 1990s, they had become the norm for bakers and Parisians. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Those bakers at that time were happy,” said Bouattour, as he led me past the fresh loaves at his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FArletteetColette\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArlette & Colette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris’ 17th arrondissement. “But it killed our profession.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn an attempt to save traditional French baguettes from widespread industrialisation, France passed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.legifrance.gouv.fr\u002FaffichTexte.do?cidTexte=JORFTEXT000000727617\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Décret Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (‘The Bread Decree’) in 1993, establishing that, by law, an authentic \u003Cem\u003Ebaguette de tradition\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be made by hand, sold in the same place it’s baked and only made with water, wheat flour, yeast and salt. Today, these new ‘traditional baguettes’ make up about half of the baguettes sold in large French cities – and are the specimens judged in the competition that has taken place every year since 1994.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, today, some claim that supermarket bread, far cheaper than loaves purchased at bakeries, is edging artisans out of the marketplace. After all, reports French radio station \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.europe1.fr\u002Fsociete\u002Fen-france-les-petites-boulangeries-sont-dans-le-petrin-3346799\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope 1\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 1,200 small bakeries in France close every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s shameful,” M’Seddi said. “It’s bread. It’s France. You need to buy it in a bakery, where people get up early, where they make it by hand.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to winning this illustrious competition, Bouattour and M’Seddi have a few other things in common. Both forewent the traditional trade school that many aspiring French bakers enter at age 16. Both have been professional bakers for less than a decade (as has this year’s winner, former engineer Fabrice Leroy). And both are first-generation Frenchmen with what Bouattour euphemistically dubs ‘origins’: family backgrounds from elsewhere – or in their cases, Tunisia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvoking one’s ethnic background is taboo in nominally egalitarian France. The government has not collected racial or religious information from its citizens since the 1970s (a policy that stems in no small part from censuses performed during France’s Nazi occupation). But while France’s official political stance is intended to engender equality, its reality of beaches \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-37173673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eforbidding burkinis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and naturalisation offices offering to ‘\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.service-public.fr\u002Fparticuliers\u002Fvosdroits\u002FF10528\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrenchify\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’ new citizens’ names seems to tell those with ‘origins’ one thing: assimilate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt Arlette & Colette, Bouattour sells a range of breads, pastries and viennoiseries, all made by hand each day and all using certified organic ingredients. “Sometimes we get clients coming in saying, ‘The neighbourhood is full of Tunisians – thank God you guys are here!’” he said, referring to him and his wife, who works alongside him in the bakery. “But we have Tunisian origins too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, Le Grand Prix de la Baguette contest does a fairly good job of creating an even playing field for participating bakers, regardless of their backgrounds or experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“All the baguettes were numbered, so we had no idea about who we were evaluating,” explained Meg Zimbeck, founder of restaurant review site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparisbymouth.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParis by Mouth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of her experience as a past jury member. “The biggest potential problem is palate fatigue. We tasted \u003Cem\u003Ea lot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E of baguettes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, before M’Seddi’s victory in 2018, three of the last four years’ winners were also French bakers of African origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDjibril Bodian is the baker behind picturesque Montmartre’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flegrenierapain.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grenier à Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bakery. Also a son of a baker – and a first-generation Frenchman of Senegalese origin – Bodian decided at age 16 to follow in his father’s footsteps. Almost immediately, his bakery school teachers recognised his natural aptitude for the trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When I became a baker 22 years ago, no-one thought that a baguette could bring you to the Elysée Palace","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The teacher started using me as a good example, saying to the others, ‘Do it like Djibril!’,” he recalled. “It made me feel recognised, but it also put pressure on me. I didn’t want to disappoint him.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a rule, the baker who wins the Le Grand Prix de la Baguette competition is not allowed to compete for the following four years. But after earning the title of Paris’ best baguette in 2010, Bodian said, “I had only one desire: to enter again as quickly as possible. So for four years, while people might have thought I was resting on my laurels, I was already working, trying to improve.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2015, Bodian won the contest for a second time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was an immense pleasure and an honour,” he said, laughing. “But when I became a baker 22 years ago, no-one thought that a baguette could bring you to the Elysée Palace.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBodian credits his success to both his Senegalese background and values and his French training.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I stopped thinking of myself as a foreigner a long time ago, but my origins make me the person I am today,” he said. “We all start with the same tools, the same teachers, but some people are going to understand things differently. That has nothing to do with origins; that’s just talent.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We need to make people proud to be French","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBodian, Bouattour and M’Seddi’s stories echo those of France’s 2018 World Cup winning team. Since more than half the roster was comprised of players with African heritage, the victory triggered a national \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-44885923\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edebate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over French identity and led many of the team’s players to assertively lay claim to their Frenchness. Much like these players, Bodian notes that the Grand Prix’s participants and results represent France as it is today: a diverse and multicultural country made up of people who are proud to be French.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Whoever wins the contest is a winner,” M’Seddi said. “He’s a champion, whether he’s descended from immigrants or not.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd while he brushes off the importance of evoking one’s foreign roots, he does admit that there is a certain element of pride when someone of foreign origin takes top prize.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That’s someone who’s passionate about French culture, who has become integrated as a French person,” he said. “We need to make people proud to be French.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat better way to do so than by tearing into a baguette?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-08-26T14:13:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The perfect French baguette","headlineShort":"The perfect French baguette","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Every year, Paris holds a Grand Prix to crown the city’s best baguette – and in recent years, the winners have been bakers whose ‘origins’ are far from France.","summaryShort":"It's so good that it’s hand-delivered to the French president each morning","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:36:41.998522Z","entity":"article","guid":"8741a0c3-9839-4f87-8e98-24f7e136c9c5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:55:14.299283Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers","_id":"62df7eac43d9f46d9838b559","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Native Australian flours are being touted as the next big thing in sustainable baking. But the revival of ancient grains could have a much bigger impact than making sandwiches tastier.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMastering the art of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emaking sourdough\u003C\u002Fa\u003E will be remembered as one of the biggest culinary trends of the Covid-19 era. But as home cooks around the world focused on producing Instagram-worthy loaves, Australian researchers were busy testing the viability of producing ancient grains for mass consumption – an experiment that could have implications for everything from food security to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-44392976\"\u003Ereconciliation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“See these seeds?” said Arakwal-Bundjalung woman Delta Kay as she gently cradled a seed head protruding from a \u003Cem\u003ELomandra longifolia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spiny-headed mat-rush) plant growing near a popular surfing beach. “Bundjalung people would grind these up to make flour for baking a flat biscuit in hot ashes.” The long, strong leaves, she added, were dried out and used for weaving baskets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis knowledge, which Kay shared with me on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fexplorebyronbay.com\u002Ftrip\u002Fguided-aboriginal-walks\u002F\"\u003EAboriginal walking tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E she hosts in Byron Bay, in northern New South Wales, dates back tens of thousands of years. Yet it wasn’t until recently that Indigenous traditions of harvesting nature’s bounty, passed down over generations, have begun to reshape common views about how the nation’s first people lived – and cooked – prior to colonisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDetailing the advanced Aboriginal agricultural practices documented by white settlers, Bruce Pascoe’s 2014 book, Dark Emu, effectively “cancelled” the theory that Indigenous Australians led a simple hunter-gatherer lifestyle. Indigenous Australians were among the world’s first agriculturalists, Pascoe told me from his farm on Yuin Country near Mallacoota in eastern Victoria. What's more, the 1990s discovery of a grinding stone in Cuddie Springs in north-west New South Wales dated to be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fprofile\u002FRichard_Fullagar\u002Fpublication\u002F285933200_Pleistocene_seed-grinding_implements_from_the_Australian_arid_zone\u002Flinks\u002F56ef45ea08aea35d5b9a569a\u002FPleistocene-seed-grinding-implements-from-the-Australian-arid-zone.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eat least 30,000 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – followed by the 2015 discovery of a grinding stone in Arnhem Land in the Northern Territory \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fnature22968\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efound to have been used 65,000 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – has made him “certain” that Indigenous Australians were the world’s first bakers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This ancient culinary staple is making a comeback","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The signs indicate that these grinding stones were used to make flour,” said Pascoe, who has Aboriginal ancestry. “And that’s the first time in the world that grass seeds had been turned into flour by many thousands of years.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven before the Arnhem Land discovery, said Pascoe, “The Cuddie Springs grinding stone showed that Ngemba women [the local Aboriginal clan] were making bread from seed 18,000 years before the Egyptians.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENative crops once thrived in Australia, particularly in arid regions, and were once skilfully managed by Indigenous Australians using techniques such as controlled burning (a practice \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-51043828\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enow being harnessed to manage Australia’s notorious bushfires\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). But crops including grasses, the seeds of which were harvested to make flour, were decimated by the removal of Aboriginal people from their ancestral lands and the introduction of cattle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The first explorers and pioneers that went into those regions wrote about grasses higher than their saddles, but they don’t exist in many of those places anymore,” said Pascoe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile native Australian foods have enjoyed a surge in popularity in recent years, native grasses and other plants that can be used to make flour are still viewed by many non-Indigenous Australians as weeds. But with the help of modern science, this ancient culinary staple is making a comeback.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile studying introduced crops for heat and drought tolerance at the University of Sydney’s agricultural research station on Gamilaraay Country in north-western New South Wales, agricultural scientist Angela Pattison began to wonder if hardy native grasses had the potential to become a sustainable food source in the face of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-45075838\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia’s worsening droughts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which saw the nation’s 2019\u002F2020 grain harvest – and exports – shrink to decade lows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Australia's best-kept secret?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191103-the-worlds-oldest-known-recipes-decoded\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 4,000-year-old recipe decoded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA billion-year-old living organism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I read Bruce Pascoe’s book, and I thought, wouldn’t it be great to see if we could get a paddock-to-plate production system working in a modern context,” Pattison said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConducted in collaboration with Pascoe – who has experimented with native grains with his own Indigenous social enterprise, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblackduckfoods.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Duck Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – along with Gamilaraay Traditional Owners (local Aboriginal custodians) and local farmers, a one-year \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sydney.edu.au\u002Fcontent\u002Fdam\u002Fcorporate\u002Fdocuments\u002Ffaculty-of-science\u002Fresearch\u002Flife-and-environmental-sciences\u002Fsia-native-grains-paddock-to-plate.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efeasibility study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E led by Pattison found that native millet, or panicum, had particular promise to be grown commercially.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The native millet was the easiest to grow, harvest and turn into flour, and it’s significantly more nutritious than wheat,” said Pattison. “It’s also high in fibre and gluten free. And it tastes good. It just ticks so many boxes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResearchers also found that native grasses have myriad environmental benefits. As perennials they sequester carbon, preserve threatened habitats and support biodiversity. This wasn’t exactly news, however, to the descendants of Australia’s first farmers – for whom the revival of native grains has more than just environmental and potential economic benefits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs part of the study, Pascoe joined Pattison and Gamilaraay Traditional Owners at a series of “johnny cake days” to test how various native flours held up in an Indigenous flatbread cooked over hot coals. For Rhonda Ashby, a Gamilaraay woman who has been recognised for her work helping Aboriginal people re-engage with language and culture, it wasn’t just an opportunity to break bread with her kin, but also to heal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve lost a lot of knowledge though our colonisation,” said Ashby. “So, bringing back this traditional practice, being able to cook with our traditional ingredients, is really important for our wellbeing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENative grasses aren’t just a traditional food source for Gamilaraay people, she explained. They also have deep cultural significance, particularly for women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The people of western New South Wales are known as the river and grass people, and these native grasses carry important Songlines [ancient wayfaring routes across the landscape, passed down over generations by story and song] like the Seven Sisters Songline, which is one of the biggest Songlines in Australia for First Nations women,” Ashby said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s high in fibre and gluten free. And it tastes good. It just ticks so many boxes.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Indigenous word for bread varies between language groups (there were more than 250 Indigenous languages spoken in Australia at the time of colonisation), but in English, rustic-style bread cooked in fire is most commonly known as “damper”. The word is thought to have been derived from the breadmaking technique used by a man who arrived in Australia on the First Fleet in 1788 named William Bond, who made bread in his Sydney bakery by “damping” the fire then burying the dough in the ashes. The method was later popularised by drovers, as the simple ingredients (white flour and salt) could be carried on long journeys without spoiling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn’t long before the term “damper” was immortalised in popular culture by the likes of colonial-era bush poet Banjo Paterson. Unfortunately, so too was the British recipe. By the early 19th Century, government rations for Indigenous Australians amounted to 1lb of white flour, two ounces of sugar and half an ounce of tea per day. These highly processed, low-nutrient foods wreaked havoc on Indigenous health. Even today, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people are 4.3 times more likely to suffer from Type 2 diabetes than non-Indigenous Australians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the many benefits linked to the revival of native grains, researchers acknowledge there are still hurdles to overcome before native flours could become mainstream. “For one, the yield of native grains is low compared to introduced crops, and to produce any type of grains you need to be able to do it on a large scale to make it worthwhile,” said Pattison.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPascoe, who along with Pattison supports Indigenous leadership of the development of a native grains industry, said the acquisition of land is a continuing struggle for Indigenous Australians, whose traditional land management practices have also been historically undervalued.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Whole tracts of land are now unfarmable in Australia because of the damage caused by sheep,” said Pascoe. “So, let Aboriginal people have a crack. Let us into this industry as a form of social justice as well as economic good sense.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, Indigenous Australian bread and breadmaking traditions can be experienced on Indigenous tourism tours around the country. With different plants, techniques and tools traditionally used to extract flour from region to region, there’s always something new to learn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore heading into the mangroves of Far North Queensland to try my hand a spearing a mud crab with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.walkaboutadventures.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWalkabout Cultural Adventures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I fuelled up on fresh damper baked by company owner Juan Walker’s mother Louise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She uses regular flour, but traditionally Kuku Yalanji people used many native seeds and grains to bake, such as black bean, black wattle and pandanus seeds,” Walker explained. “Some ladies still practice the treatments required to remove toxins [in the plants], but mostly for passing on knowledge.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a tour of the Northern Territory’s Arnhem Land with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fventurenorth.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdventure North Safaris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, my guide pointed out deep grooves in a rocky outcrop made by grinding native grass seeds hundreds – maybe thousands – of years ago. And in his latest book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hardiegrant.com\u002Fau\u002Fpublishing\u002Fbookfinder\u002Fbook\u002Floving-country-by-bruce-pascoe\u002F9781741176483\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELoving Country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a lyrical travel guide to Aboriginal Australia, Pascoe touches on various places where people can experience Aboriginal baking traditions, including Brewarrina (near Cuddie Springs), best known for its ancient fish traps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being able to cook with our traditional ingredients is really important for our wellbeing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChefs around Australia are also reviving Indigenous breadmaking traditions. Chief among them is New Zealand-born celebrity chef Ben Shewry, an advocate for the development of Indigenous-owned native food production, who has brought various iterations of native grains to the menus of his lauded Melbourne restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.attica.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAttica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They’re incredibly versatile,” said Shewry. “Take wattleseeds for example – not only are they amazing ground into flour for bread, but they are also amazing boiled like barley or soaked and steamed like rice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sailorsgravebrewing.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESailors Grave Brewing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Orbost in eastern Victoria has even turned native grains into beer, which you can sample at its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slipwaylakesentrance.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlipway Lakes Entrance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cellar door nearby. Brewed with native grass seeds harvested by Pascoe and roasted by a local bakery, the dark larger is – fittingly – called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstore.sailorsgravebrewing.com\u002Fdark-emu-dark-lager-sold-out-more-coming-soon\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDark Emu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, after Pascoe's groundbreaking book.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many non-Indigenous Australians, I have spent many a camping trip cooking damper on an open fire, unaware until recently that the tradition went back much further than Banjo’s poems. So, the next time I sink my teeth into the warm, fluffy goodness of freshly baked damper drizzled with bush honey, I’ll be paying my respects to the first Australians who invented it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd forget sourdough. If native flour hits the supermarket shelves, I’ll be giving what's likely to be the world’s oldest bread recipe a whirl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-01T22:11:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Who were the world's first bakers?","headlineShort":"The baking traditions making a comeback","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Native Australian flours are being touted as the next big thing in sustainable baking. But the revival of ancient grains could have a much bigger impact than making sandwiches tastier.","summaryShort":"The world’s first bakers might surprise you","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:02:22.355639Z","entity":"article","guid":"c0398899-d99b-4292-a843-d28340e29b2c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:23:28.069163Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough","_id":"62df812643d9f46d2c2cc909","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-feinstein"],"bodyIntro":"The search for the oldest sourdough starter spans continents and countries, science labs and libraries, and involves everyone from the Ancient Egyptians to Jesus Christ.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the pandemic, many people hunkered down and explored the art of making bread for the first time. Some used dry active yeast or baking soda to find that perfect rise, while others dabbled in the wild world of sourdough starters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut home bakers didn't just learn about making bread in its most natural form – they tapped into living antiquity. Sourdough starters, often referred to as mother dough, have a nearly 6,000-year history that spans the globe and are responsible for feeding the planet millions of times over. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis captivates bread-makers, scientists and researchers who want to understand how this elixir of life came about and what makes it so special – especially when the starter's owner claims a long and storied history. Because of this fascination, old starters have an almost mystical quality to them, and finding them and baking with them have gripped home cooks and professionals around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Old starters have an almost mystical quality to them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe search for the oldest sourdough starter spans continents and countries, science labs and libraries, and involves everyone from the Ancient Egyptians to Jesus Christ. This is a quest to find the oldest mothers on the planet – living, breathing, bubbling sourdough starters that helped build the pyramids, fed the Roman Empire and nourished a gold rush.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the uninitiated, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fwhat-sourdough\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esourdough bread\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is made with a sourdough starter. A starter is a leavening agent that helps the bread to rise when it's baked. In its simplest explanation, a starter is formed when you combine water and flour and allow natural yeasts and bacteria that are floating around the air to combine and begin to ferment. Over time, the yeast will consume the carbohydrates in the flour and convert them into carbon dioxide, which is what gives sourdough its bubbles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcqqb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike yeast, the bacteria also consume carbs, but instead of bubbles, its by-product is lactic acid, which puts the sour flavour in sourdough. The result is a living organism that's tantamount to a pet that requires feeding and care with water, flour and friendly growing temperatures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike the bubbling sludge of a fermenting sourdough starter, the history of making sourdough bread is murky. According to historians and archaeologists, widespread breadmaking really took off around 5,000-6,000 years ago in Ancient Egypt. You can find hieroglyphics of farmers collecting wheat and baking loaves all over tombs and temples. But were the Egyptians using a starter? \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Serena Love, a gastro-Egyptologist, it's not proven. \"During the pyramid age, so 2,500 BCE, when the pyramids around Giza and that whole complex were being built, what we have is textual sources that says [workers] were given a daily allowance of bread, beer and onions. And when you're talking about 10,000 people that were living there, you are making a lot of bread.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's unknown whether the Egyptians were deliberately using an actual starter to make their bread, the bakers at the time might've stumbled on the way to use some of the flour\u002Fwater mixture from the day before and put it into the next day's bake. So, according to Love, \"You could call it a sourdough, they're making bread, and then they'll take a bit [of dough] and use it for the next batch… They're still learning how to do this on a massive scale though.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcqz2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor actual proof of sourdough baking, you have to fast forward a few thousand years to Ancient Rome and read through the texts of Roman historian Pliny the Elder around 77 CE. Professor Eric Pallant, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.agatepublishing.com\u002F9781572843011\u002Fsourdough-culture\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESourdough Culture: A History of Bread Making From Ancient to Modern Bakers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, says that this is the first recorded instance of leavening with a bread starter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is what Pliny the Elder is writing down. The Romans are basically saying, you can make bread and you can make it rise. And if you save some [of the dough] from yesterday, you [can] throw it in to today's bread. That's the first written-down recipe where I'm fairly confident,\" said Pallant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ESourdough's history can also be traced to the gold rushes of the 1800s in the western United States, Alaska and Canada. Miners were known to keep sourdough starters with them and would sleep with the starters at night to keep them warm for making bread the next day. Rumour had it that they even began to smell like their sour dough and were then nicknamed \"sourdoughs\" as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Gold rush sourdoughs","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMichael Gänzle, a food microbiologist from the University of Alberta in Canada, who has been working on the science of sourdough for more than 20 years, backs up Pallant's research and adds a new ingredient to the mix.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To my knowledge, the oldest document [that talks about] 'backslopping' is approximately 2,000 years old, and there are two sources. One is Pliny the Elder, who wrote about sourdough and explicitly makes reference to backslopping, which means using a part of the dough of the previous day and making the next sourdough,\" Gänzle said. \"The second reliable source is the New Testament.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you scour the gospels, you'll found numerous references to leavening, which would require backslopping to make bread. Some examples include Luke 13:20\u002F21: \u003Cem\u003EAgain He asked, \"To what can I compare the kingdom of God?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIt is like leaven that a woman took and mixed into three measures of flour, until all of it was leavened.\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Or, in Matthew 13:33: \u003Cem\u003E\"The kingdom of heaven is like yeast that a woman took and mixed into about sixty pounds of flour until it worked all through the dough.\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGänzle continued, \"If you look at the story of sourdough [in the New Testament], the way the story is used implies that sourdough was used as a starter culture. And irrespective of what you think of the Bible, the fact that somebody in the 1st Century referred to [leavening]… means that [baking with a sourdough starter] was commonly done at the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcsd0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven though sourdough starters have their histories intertwined with Ancient Egypt and Rome, do any descendants of these original starters still exist today?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESadly, there is no \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.23andme.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E23 and Me\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ancestry.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncestry.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for sourdough. Professor Marco Gobbetti, a microbiologist from the Free University of Bolzano, Italy, is one of the world's leading scientists on sourdough and explains why it's not possible to scientifically prove the age of a sourdough starter. \"Today, we are using the most sophisticated tools to carry out this analysis. We can give names to lactic acid bacteria and to yeast, but we cannot understand how old the sourdough is,\" said Gobbetti. \"Why? Since the life of a microbe is lasting not more than one day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there are different types of yeast and bacteria that come together to form sourdough, the same microbes tend to show up on every corner of the planet, so it's hard to know where a particular starter originated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Younger starters tend to have lactobacillus plantarum or brevis,\" explained Erin McKenney, an assistant professor in applied ecology at North Carolina State University and part of a team that ran a global sourdough project that analysed around 500 different starters from around the world. \"And then older starters tend to have lactobacillus sanfranciscensis (like the one that was initially isolated from San Francisco sourdough), even though we found it is not geographically bound. It's sourdough bound.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Global microbes","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut that scientific fact hasn't stopped bakers and sourdough enthusiasts around the world from making wild claims about starters that are more than 100 years old or ones that date to the Middle Ages and beyond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd there are stories. Like Seamus Blackley, the inventor of the Xbox, who \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-49262255\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escraped yeast off 5,000-year-old-Egyptian pottery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and made sourdough with it. Or the Israeli team led by Ronen Hazan, a microbiologist at the Hebrew University in Jerusalem, who \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FC:\u002FUsers\u002Fpaulf\u002FDownloads\u002FAouizerat-et%2520al_Isolation%2520of%2520ancient%2520yeast%2520cells_mBio%25202019.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emade beer from yeast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found in ancient clay vessels. Then there are the sellers on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ebay.com\u002Fitm\u002F323984613034?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323984613034&targetid=1262779894929&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9011899&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1262779894929&abcId=9300678&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrJOMBhCZARIsAGEd4VFGiv1jO8Hv9nYPU6Nszgt-sWo_E3VnmRsk0y1wjM8IzDhtuvbaNRUaAqy7EALw_wcB\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EeBay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.etsy.com\u002Flisting\u002F846872185\u002F900-year-old-organic-sourdough-starter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEtsy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who make claims of starters dating to the Black Death or to Silk Road traders more than 900 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, if you can't scientifically determine the age of sourdough starters, where does that lead? Inevitably the place where stories are catalogued, which takes this quest to Belgium and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.puratos.com\u002Fservices\u002Fcenter-for-bread-flavour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPuratos Center for Bread Flavour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the world's only sourdough library – which is home to some really old and really rare mothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20190730-the-strange-science-inside-your-sourdough\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Puratos Sourdough Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located about 90 miles south-east of Brussels, is run by Karl De Smedt, a baker who is tasked with preserving the world's rarest and oldest sourdough starters. \"What we do here is three things. We preserve the biodiversity of sourdough, we protect the heritage, and we offer a backup to those who give us a sample of their sourdough starter,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDe Smedt is working with professor Gobbetti, the sourdough microbiologist from Italy, to isolate yeast and bacteria strains and freeze them (which puts the microorganisms in a hibernating state), so they can be preserved in perpetuity. His findings mirror those of the other microbiologists around the world in that similar strains of yeast and bacteria show up everywhere, and there's no way to know how old any of the starters actually are.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcsc3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You cannot carbon date a sourdough. When I get a sourdough from someone, I have to trust them, he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut just because scientists can't technically find out the age of the starter, De Smedt still believes a few of the starters in his vaults have some age-old merit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You cannot carbon date a sourdough","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I have a couple here. One is coming from the Klondike Gold Rush. So, it goes back to 1896. One from Switzerland goes back six generations, and the bakery was founded in 1868. I have another one from Japan, which is from 1875. But they do not come with a birth certificate. So, it's impossible [to be sure]. said De Smedt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a true believer in sourdough, and despite the current scientific barriers, De Smedt continues to search for rare and old starters. \"The quest for sourdough is to go out and find sourdoughs that are still around and that we could study here in the library. It's very difficult, because what is the rarest? We don't know that yet. I hope to encounter them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor De Smedt – and many others – the stories behind the starters are perhaps more important than the starter itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcs95"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETake Daniele Uditi, a pizzaiolo from Caserta, Italy, who smuggled his family bakery's almost 70-year-old starter to Los Angeles and uses it to form the perfect crust on his neo-Neapolitan pies at his award-winning pizzeria \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpizzana.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPizzana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwellbread.ca\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2019\u002F07\u002FIone-Christensen-1898-Sourdough-Information-Recipes.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIone Christensen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an 89-year-old home baker from Whitehorse, Canada, who claims that the crunchy, chewy sourdough waffles she makes at home comes from her starter that dates to the Klondike Gold Rush. \"Well, I can trace it back positively to 1898. That was when my great grandfather and his four sons left St John's, New Brunswick, in February of 1898 for the Klondike Gold Rush,\" said Christensen… And then it's been in our family ever since.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Japan, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ginzakimuraya.jp\u002Fhistory\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKimuraya bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E uses a unique starter made with cooked rice, rice malt and water for their An Pan bread they've been making since the 1870s and loved by Japanese emperors and commoners alike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe famous Italian chef and cookbook author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsarapapa.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESara Papa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, claims to have a starter from Milan that dates to 1848 and uses it for crackly, fluffy sourdough loaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcsp1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd then there's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tastemyculture.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArianna Sikorski\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Alaskan who inherited a separate Klondike Gold Rush starter that dates to the 1890s and travels all over the world with it, sharing it with fellow bread enthusiasts. \"In terms of proof, we don't have a photograph of 1896 when it was first created in a tent somewhere. I can only prove what I saw when I was a kid in the sense that we always had it going. I lived in a cabin, that was our main source of food for quite some time. And my parents had always kept it active and alive,\" said Sikorski.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe list goes on of family stories and baker origins that are impossible to trace, and all come with their own folklore. But when it comes to verification, only a few have enough data to back up their claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In my world, there are two credible reports for sourdoughs that are more than 100 years old","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In my world, there are two credible reports for sourdoughs that are more than 100 years old,\" said Gänzle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One would be the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboudinbakery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoudin Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in San Francisco. They will tell you that they maintain their sourdough since the Gold Rush in 1849. And I think that's perfectly reasonable and credible. Because I do know if a baker hands over the bakery to somebody else in the family or outside of the family, the starter stays.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcsm7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The second documented case that comes with lab books and everything, there is a German starter culture producer called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsauerteig.de\u002Fen\u002Fproducts\u002Fboecker-starter\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBöcker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\" Gänzle explained. \"They have, at least in Germany and in surrounding countries, pretty much the best reputation of selling a good sourdough starter culture. And they've been propagating their sourdough, I think, since 1906. And they have documentation that this sourdough has been continuously propagated over at least 100 years now. It's almost 120.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut one of the most interesting tales of sourdough lore comes from a very unlikely place. In his search for the origins of sourdough, author Eric Pallant discovered a church in Syria that makes a fascinating claim.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Nestorians, who are in Assyria, insist, based on their scriptures, that their sourdough actually comes from the tears of Christ on the cross and his blood after he's been stabbed by the Romans. [The Apostle] John captured [that blood and tears] and [made] a sourdough starter. [From there] the Apostles handed out [that starter], and it is the Eucharist that's still being using by this church [in Syria],\" said Pallant. \"So, when Jesus says, my body is bread, and my blood is wine – which are both products of fermentation – the Nestorians insist it really is!\"  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjcq91"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas the \"Holy Grail\" of historic starters then hidden in plain sight all along, inside a church in Syria, backslopped thousands of times and given as holy communion over and over and over? It's unlikely. And whether or not it provides \"everlasting life\" to the pious churchgoers who consume it, the starter might have achieved a level of immortality – in the form of water, flour, yeast and bacteria – that rivals any story about the Fountain of Youth or the Cup of Christ.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, who has the oldest starter in the world? The short, scientific answer is nobody. If you're a stickler for documentation, though, Böcker in Germany, Boudin in San Francisco, and possibly Kimuraya bakery in Japan have claims to the prize. Anecdotally, the oldest, maybe hardest to believe starter might have traces of DNA from Jesus Christ himself. But if microbiologists ever find a novel way to verify the mythological claims of starter origins, the Puratos Library in Belgium might have to build a bigger wing for the oldest, rarest mothers on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough-26"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-12T19:53:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's oldest sourdough?","headlineShort":"The world's oldest sourdough?","image":["p0cjcql4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.2795385","longitude":"6.1365764","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cjcql4"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The search for the oldest sourdough starter spans continents and countries, science labs and libraries, and involves everyone from the Ancient Egyptians to Jesus Christ.","summaryShort":"It's a search for immortality – in the form of water, flour, yeast and bacteria","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-11T19:53:40.016328Z","entity":"article","guid":"a8d2ed7b-7ab2-4f6d-b8cc-5964af62a608","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-12T11:07:19.970469Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbelgium"],"destinationStat":"europe_belgium","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078301},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","_id":"62df809f43d9f42c895578b1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI didn’t see it coming, that mild feeling of electric currents buzzing on my tongue as if I’d licked a battery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeated on a busy pavement in front of a lazy Susan weighed down with sizzling hotpot, diced rabbit and fish soup, I was digging into a spicy meal on the humid first night of a visit to Chengdu, the capital of China’s south-western Sichuan province and the cradle of the region’s famously fiery cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe plates resembled volcanic islands, each dish’s contents swimming in chilli oil hidden beneath a red-hot mountain of peppers and garlic. Tongue ablaze and face flushed, I felt a prickliness starting to numb my taste buds. The waiter chuckled at my glistening forehead and handed me a handkerchief; it was clear who at the table was the foreigner not yet acclimated to local flavours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as málà","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnsettling at first, that tingly feeling of electricity offered a pleasant reprieve from the heat. This curious effect was thanks to one of the most integral ingredients in this province’s distinctive cuisine: the tiny-but-mighty Sichuan peppercorn, a spice indigenous to China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seasoning’s English label is a misnomer, as the “peppercorns” are actually husks of dried berries from a type of prickly ash shrub. When you eat chillies, capsaicin induces a burning sensation known in Chinese as \u003Cem\u003Elà\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Sichuan peppercorns produce a phenomenon called paraesthesia, in which the lips and tongue feel as though they are vibrating and go vaguely numb – known as \u003Cem\u003Emá\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Together, the tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as \u003Cem\u003Emálà\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a hallmark of Sichuan cuisine that facilitates sweating – and thus creates a cooling effect that makes the sweltering climate more tolerable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The level of humidity in Sichuan can make you feel lethargic and uncomfortable,” said Cheng Yi, who owns the Cheng Big Mouth Frog restaurant, which specialises in Sichuan-style frog stew, in the nearby city of Chongqing. “Sichuan peppercorn not only adds fragrance but also helps combat dampness.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Traditional Chinese Medicine, the human body’s constitutions are intimately connected with the surrounding environment. Highly humid weather, which Chengdu experiences year-round, is said to create dampness in the body, which can lead to headaches and bloating. Eating spicy food and sweating can mitigate the adverse physiological effects of humidity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We always joke that if you have a cold, just go eat a meal of potently málà food and you’ll recover,” Cheng quipped. “By eliminating toxins from the body through sweating, you’ll feel much better the next day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI indeed felt cooler as the meal wore on, despite sitting outside in the moist air. And despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating; the Sichuan peppercorn was also soothing my mouth with its vaguely anaesthetic prickliness, enabling me to eat more by rendering the spice of the chillies a little less fiery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When it’s humid in the summer, your appetite isn’t as good. But stimulating flavours can spur you to eat more,” said Gan Siqi, a born-and-bred Chengdu native and avid cook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe cuisine’s restorative effects seem to have given Sichuan food a reputation within China for being rather irresistible. Gan frequently cooks Sichuan dishes for out-of-town guests and has seen many unwittingly get hooked on the cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When people first try Sichuan food, on one hand they will fear it – because they’re pouring sweat and their tongues go numb – but they will also want to eat it again,” said Gan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“As a foreigner, I wasn’t 100% convinced that hotpot was the best, or even that delicious. But I think it only took a few times, and I was hooked,” said Trevor James, who explores Sichuan street food for his blog and YouTube channel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodranger.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Food Ranger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames told me many people have the misconception that Sichuan food is one-dimensionally hot. After living in Chengdu for six years, he would describe the food as more aromatic than spicy. “The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's secret female-only language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Japan losing its umami?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of that unique fragrance comes from Sichuan peppercorn. And while málà is one of the best-loved flavour profiles of the cuisine, the peppercorn’s aroma plays a part across different types of Sichuan dishes, not only the spicy ones. Chefs often use it to heighten other seasonings and concoct more balanced, harmonious flavour profiles. Simmering fresh Sichuan peppercorn in oil, for example, produces a vaguely numbing oil that can enhance noodles, salads and sauces. Grinding it into a powder makes an ideal addition to a dry rub for roasted meat. The spice’s ability to complement many different flavours partly explains how it became so ubiquitous in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Chongqing is a port city, and back in the day, a lot of workers did hard labour by the docks,” said Elaine Luo, a Chongqing native who runs the blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinasichuanfood.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Sichuan Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The wealthy people in Sichuan ate a lot of beef, but they saw the offal as unrefined, something to throw away. So, the labourers would take the offal for a source of protein.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those workers in Chongqing, which was part of Sichuan province until 1997, Sichuan peppercorn was a cheap way to mask the gamey taste of otherwise pungent meats. Today, famous dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Efūqī fèi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Epiàn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – thinly sliced beef offal tossed with chilli oil, Sichuan peppercorn and garlic – make star ingredients of those cuts once considered lower-class.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDining habits are often necessitated by geography and circumstance, and only later evolve into distinct regional lifestyles. Sichuan’s food is now considered one of the Eight Great Cuisines of China – which are commonly recognised by Chinese chefs to be the best and most sophisticated cuisines in the country – and in 2010, Chengdu was the first Asian city to be designated a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fcreative-cities\u002Fchengdu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Creative City of Gastronomy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to the growing Chinese diaspora and increasing cultural exchange, Sichuan cuisine is also one of the most celebrated regional Chinese cuisines overseas, with restaurants such as hotpot chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haidilao.com\u002Fen\u002Findex\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaidilao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently launching dozens of international locations in the UK, North America, Australia and Asia. The cuisine’s popularity is especially impressive considering that the importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005 over concerns the spice may carry crop bacteria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven today, finding fresh, potent Sichuan peppercorn overseas can be challenging; what I’ve purchased in the US lacks aroma and often comes with seeds and twigs. Taylor Holliday, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthemalamarket.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mala Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a blog-turned-import specialist that sources Sichuan spices – says that often happens when the ingredient is processed by machine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“[Machine-sorting of Sichuan peppercorn] leaves a lot of seeds, but that’s what most people will export because there’s no manual labour involved,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the years, Holliday has learned Sichuan peppercorn must be hand-sorted in order to leave only the husks. “It really does make a huge difference in the taste,” she said. “A carefully processed Sichuan peppercorn just tastes much more fragrant and [is] much more potent.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf chefs can get their hands on it, fresh Sichuan peppercorn at its full potential may have myriad applications even beyond Sichuan cuisine. Nowadays, restaurants outside China have begun using the numbing ingredient in non-traditional ways. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.millenniumhotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fsingapore\u002Fm-social-singapore\u002Fbeast-and-butterflies\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeast & Butterflies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the M Social Singapore Hotel recently included it in a chocolate and banana sphere dessert. The Washington DC-area joint \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhotlolaschicken.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHot Lola’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E adds it to a variation on Nashville hot chicken. And in New York, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshelskys.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sprinkles it atop a Sichuan pepper bialy (a yeast roll that’s similar to a bagel).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The world is a global village now. You can try some of what’s mine, I can try some of what’s yours. I think it’s great,” said Luo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis means more people around the world can discover the ingredient’s powerful effects, which Sichuan locals say are both physiological and mental. Despite rapid development that has seen Chengdu taken over by skyscrapers in recent decades, the city has a decidedly carefree feel that noticeably contrasts with the fast-paced metropolises of Shanghai or Shenzhen. To some locals, Chengdu’s easy-going vibe can even be traced back to its gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Compared to people from other provinces, Sichuan folks pay more attention to quality of life. We believe, since we are alive today, we should live for the present,” said Luo. “Eating málà supports this mindset.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s almost as if the powerful burn of spicy foods, coupled with the afterglow of peppercorns numbing away the pain, somehow makes málà food cathartic. Some dishes even derive their names from this belief: \u003Cem\u003Eshāngxīn liángfěn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or “sad jelly noodles”, is said to be so named because the strong málà flavours will bring tears to your eyes. “If you’re sad, and you eat some of those jelly noodles, you won’t be sad anymore,” said Luo. “You’ll be dripping sweat and feel reinvigorated, as if you just vented any negative feelings.” One might say Sichuan’s málà flavour is the gastronomic encapsulation of life’s ebb and flow: alternating discomfort and contentment, taking turns to reign over the senses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack at home and craving Chengdu’s potent flavours, I thought about what Luo said as I tucked into a steaming bowl of \u003Cem\u003Emapo tofu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or “pock-marked grandmother’s tofu”, so named because it was first served by a Chengdu grandmother in the 1800s with smallpox scars. It’s a pungent dish of tofu and pork swirled with fermented broad bean paste, chillies and, of course, Sichuan peppercorn. The frenzy of flavours set off firecrackers on my tongue, quietened moments later by the welcome sensation of numbness. But, as I learned in Chengdu, there’s an addictive quality to that one-two punch. The chillies didn’t wait long before beckoning me for another bite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-11T21:02:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Sichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools","headlineShort":"A Chinese spice so hot it cools","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","summaryShort":"Its effects are said to be both physiological and mental","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:57:31.036641Z","entity":"article","guid":"6b56a586-1cea-407d-a4fe-f8ec730af12a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:05.578986Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","_id":"62df7f0043d9f4583323b874","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The ancestral sauce of black tucupi is making its way onto the menus of some of South America’s best restaurants, bringing a new sense of pride to an age-old tradition.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt all started with a bottle of chilli sauce. It was so fiery it makes my eyes water just thinking about it. I had bought it in 2014 from an old woman in Paraitepuy, a Venezuelan village near the base of Monte Roraima. It was the end of a seven-day hike up the table-top mountain, a sacred place for the local Pemon people, from which waterfalls spill over the edge in dizzying vertical drops. The sauce came home with me where it stayed, lurking unused in my kitchen cupboard for the next four years as it was far too hot for my palate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Some people compare it to soy, some to Worcestershire sauce, but chefs simply see it as something unique","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA couple of years later, I discovered that this sauce was in fact black tucupi, a thick, dark sauce rich in the satisfying savouriness of umami, the so-called “fifth flavour”. Little-known beyond indigenous communities in the Amazon, it is being discovered by high-profile chefs in São Paulo, Lima, Bogotá and even Paris. Curious to know more, I began to dig into its origins, and what emerged was a tale of ancestral wisdom, rare Amazonian languages, poison and layers of intrigue that thickened, just like the sauce, the deeper I dug.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI am not the first person to be fascinated by black tucupi. The first written record of the sauce dates to 1929, in a posthumous publication by the Italian explorer and ethnographer Ermanno Stradelli: “To my taste, it is the king of sauces,” he wrote, “as much for game as for fish… and to which extraordinary cures can be attributed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStradelli had discovered black tucupi during one of a number of expeditions deep into the Amazon rainforest in the 1880s and 1890s. The unique flavours of the Amazon enchanted him, as they had the Dutch, English and Portuguese explorers who had been shipping their “discoveries” back to Europe as far back as the 16th Century. When writing about this king of sauces, Stradelli referred to it as \u003Cem\u003Etucupi pixuna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pronounced “pishuna”) – \u003Cem\u003Epixuna \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emeaning “black” in Nheengatu, a now-severely endangered language that was spoken all across the Amazon region until the late 1800s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETucupi pixuna\u003Cem\u003E, tucupi negro, kumaji, ají negro, kanyzi pudidy \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand \u003Cem\u003Ecassareep \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eare all different names for the same sauce. It’s a linguistic register of some of the indigenous nations that still make black tucupi right across the Amazon as far and wide as Guyana, Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador. “When was black tucupi discovered? Who discovered it? No-one will ever know because it was thousands of years ago,” explained Sandra Baré, from the Baré people that live in the Upper Rio Negro region, one of a handful of ethnic groups who still speak Nheengatu and whose tucupi pixuna is sold in markets around São Gabriel da Cachoeira, on the banks of the Rio Negro.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs for how it is made, that is one question Baré \u003Cem\u003Ecan \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eanswer, and I happily listened to her explain the process as part of a cooking class on manioc, a root vegetable (also known as cassava, or tapioca when in its pure starch form) that is now the staple food for hundreds of millions of people across the world. “Manioc has been sustaining indigenous nations for many years,” said Baré. She detailed the various techniques for turning bitter manioc into breads and flours, as well as the process by which bitter manioc juice is simmered down from a yellow liquid into dark and syrupy black tucupi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You have to be really careful cooking black tucupi because bitter manioc kills,” Baré warned. “Anyone who drinks the raw juice won’t take two steps before falling down dead.” It turns out bitter manioc is packed with toxic cyanide, and I wonder how many people over the years have literally fallen at that first hurdle. None hopefully, at least not for a couple of millennia, as bitter manioc has been cultivated and cooked (which brings the cyanide down to safe levels) by the Amazon’s indigenous nations as far back as 4,000 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDenise Rohnelt de Araújo, a Brazilian cook and food writer, first came across Stradelli’s reference to tucupi pixuna 10 years ago in História da Alimentação no Brasil, an encyclopaedic register of Brazil’s diverse culinary history that was first published in 1963 by the historian Luís da Câmara Cascudo. She’s been on its trail ever since, collecting samples from all over the Amazon. Late last year, when I visited her home in Boa Vista in Brazil’s northernmost state of Roraima, she presented me with a box full of bottles in all shapes and sizes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190114-why-brazilians-love-baby-talk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Brazilians love baby talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20120304-guyanas-path-to-paradise\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuyana's path to paradise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181127-the-acai-seller-who-got-a-record-deal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about açaí bowls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I read Stradelli’s description of this king of sauces, I had to find out more,” de Araújo told me. “There are various different ways to make black tucupi and none of them are the same. The only thing they have in common is that it’s a reduction of bitter manioc juice. Some remove the manioc starch, others don’t. Some are fermented. Others add ants. The Venezuelans add chilli. In Guyana you have clove and cinnamon. Some have a slight bitterness or smokiness. Every ethnic group does it their own way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBoa Vista was my jumping-off point into the interior of Roraima to see for myself how different indigenous peoples make black tucupi. Here in the heart of the Amazonian savannah on the triple border of Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana, hot, dry air blows across a mainly grassy landscape. At Tabalascada, about 24km outside Boa Vista, a Wapichana community are fighting to preserve their land and their culture. Monoculture crop farming and urban development encroach from all sides. I hiked from the village into the forest with a community leader, Marcolino da Silva, to see their manioc plantation. The young plants were only five months old and nearly twice my height already, with leaves fanning out at the top of thin stems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the village, a long table was being laid for lunch under the shade of some tall mango trees with parakeets screeching overhead. The shy but lively 62-year old Dona Carol, da Silva’s mother, is the village expert in making black tucupi, and she busied about bringing dishes to the table and clapping a nosy cockerel away. Everything she laid out was made with manioc, from the bread (\u003Cem\u003Ebeiju\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to a manioc and fish stew (\u003Cem\u003Edamorida\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and a jug of boozy fermented manioc (\u003Cem\u003Ecaxiri)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The prints of trainers, bare feet and animal claws in the dry earth charted the afternoon’s comings and goings, and as the sun started its downward slide and the caxiri went to my head, I eyed up a nearby hammock. Dona Carol has been teaching the younger generation her black tucupi recipe. “They have to learn to do this to not forget our Wapichana culture,” she said. “I am here today but who knows about tomorrow. Death knows no age.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Anyone who drinks the raw juice won’t take two steps before falling down dead","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy next stop, Yupukari, was just over the border in Guyana’s Rupununi region. In a small Macuxi village, home to about 100 families, I was spending three days learning how to make black tucupi. I met the team at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcaimanhouse.com\u002F\"\u003ECaiman House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an eco-lodge in the village and one of a dozen or so eco-lodges run by indigenous peoples in the interior wilderness of Guyana. Nature lovers come here to explore the “land of the giants”, as it has been called; the world’s largest otters, spiders, anteaters, rodents and eagles can all be spotted here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI had my sights set on black tucupi, however, known in Guyana as\u003Cem\u003E cassareep,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or cassava sauce. This is the only country in the Amazon Basin where black tucupi has made its way into the national cuisine. It’s an essential ingredient in pepperpot, a meat stew in which black tucupi mingles with the cloves and cinnamon of Guyana’s Caribbean heritage. Industrially made cassareep is sold everywhere in Guyana, but I’d come to learn the traditional, artisanal way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy next two days were spent with two local women as they harvested, peeled and grated nearly 100kg of manioc. The grated manioc was stuffed into a plaited palm tube called a \u003Cem\u003Ematapi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(or \u003Cem\u003Etipiti \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Brazil), which looks like the engorged belly of an anaconda before it is stretched out thin, squeezing the manioc juice into a bowl below. Next, the juice rests for a few hours to let the solid starch (tapioca) decant, and the juice was then poured into a cauldron and left to simmer over a wood fire for around four or five hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, the women transformed the grated manioc into toasted flour and flatbread. A crowd of onlookers shuffled around the space to avoid the smoke as it curled up and around. Things got tense in the final minutes as the simmering manioc juice begins to camarelise, turning red and then dark brown, then as thick as molasses and hastily whipped off the fire before it burned. Once it had cooled we all dipped the flatbread into the sauce and tasted the flavour bomb: intense, sweet and mildly sour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, it was added to a fragrant bowl of \u003Cem\u003Etuma pot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a traditional fish stew – served for lunch on my last day. I also took a bottle home with me, all the more valuable having seen the backbreaking work in making it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside of indigenous communities, black tucupi evangelists in some of South America’s best restaurants are getting excited about its umami potential, glazing meats with it, adding it to dressings, broths and sauces, and even mixing it in Bloody Marys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn São Paulo, chef Helena Rizzo glazes fish with black tucupi at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmanimanioca.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManí restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; while Carla Pernambuco served confit duck with a black tucupi sauce at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCarlota-2320308358205835\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarlota\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. On the far side of the continent in the Peruvian capital, Lima, high-profile chefs have been experimenting with black tucupi on their menus for a few years already. Their supply, sold in elegant glass bottles in Lima’s upmarket delis, comes from Bora and Huitito women near Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon thanks to a partnership with NGO \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdespensamazonica.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDespensa Amazónica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has put it at the heart of his menu at new casual diner \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fboastreetfoodamazonico\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoa Street Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, infusing tomato sauce, \u003Cem\u003Epirarucu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fish) sausages and smoked pork tacos with its richness; while Gaston Acúrio brushes it on roasted cauliflower at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.astridygaston.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAstrid y Gastón\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Black tucupi evangelists in some of South America’s best restaurants are getting excited about its umami potential","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Some people compare it to soy, some to Worcestershire sauce, but chefs simply see it as something unique,” said Joanna Martins, whose Brazilian food company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaniocabrasil.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManioca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sells black tucupi to retailers. She supplies some of Brazil’s top chefs with her version and is testing out the US market, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Wapichana community in Tabalascada has plans to launch a certified, branded version to Brazilian retailers next year. They sell it locally and informally for now but are building up their capacity through a partnership with Brazilian NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.socioambiental.org\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstituto Socioambiental\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (ISA) as well as government funding thanks to Joênia Wapichana (the first indigenous woman to be voted into the Brazilian congress).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Black tucupi is an incredible product that respects the Wapichana way of life and their traditional agricultural systems, and that in turn helps protect biodiversity and the forest,” said ISA’s Amanda Latosinski. “For the youngsters, the chance to earn an income is an incentive to not leave for the city, and to resist the pressures of destructive activities like mining.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a win-win for the indigenous communities. And it’s a win-win for those who can get their hands on a precious bottle – the chance to try a unique, umami flavour and support a tradition that runs deep into the heart of the Amazon. I can still only handle a few drops at a time of the fiery black tucupi bought all those years ago in Venezuela, but the treacle-like cassareep from Guyana is black gold, used in my cooking as sparingly as my willpower allows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-23T21:43:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Amazon’s mouth-watering ‘fifth flavour’","headlineShort":"The Amazon’s staple food that kills","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The ancestral sauce of black tucupi is making its way onto the menus of some of South America’s best restaurants, bringing a new sense of pride to an age-old tradition.","summaryShort":"It’s a story of ancestral wisdom, rare languages and poison","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:58:04.785942Z","entity":"article","guid":"15cf026d-29af-43a7-87c2-5d1c342df0cd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:39.24717Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","_id":"62df7fd743d9f46f44746ad3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Brazil, poverty, colonisation and modernism turned beans into the culinary symbol of this continent-sized nation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn mid-February this year, if it weren't for the pandemic, hordes of Brazilians and travellers would have packed out Carnival street parties and sambadrome parades for five uninterrupted days of music and dancing. Those in Rio or São Paulo would certainly have come across the black bean-based \u003Cem\u003Efeijoada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Brazil's flagship stew and an omnipresent meal in south-eastern Carnival celebrations. In Bahia's capital, Salvador, revellers would have likely feasted on \u003Cem\u003Eacarajé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a typical Afro-Bahian fritter made of black-eyed peas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Ten out of 10 Brazilians prefer beans,\" says the theme song of a 1979 soap opera – not surprisingly, called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fredeglobo.globo.com\u002Fvideos\u002Ft\u002Ftudo-da-globo\u002Fv\u002Ffeijao-maravilha-1979-abertura\u002F2198587\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonder Bean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Poetic license aside, the truth is there is no food so popular in Brazil as beans. More just than a favoured ingredient, they are the culinary symbol of our national identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeans are a source of inspiration for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dZZgtHUgSEQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esongs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvermelho.org.br\u002Fprosa-poesia-arte\u002Fmario-de-andrade-ode-ao-burgues\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epoems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and the country registers more than 4,000 varieties, from \u003Cem\u003Efeijão carioca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pinto bean; consumed in São Paulo) to \u003Cem\u003Efeijão de corda\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sub-variety of black-eyed peas, common in the north-eastern state of Ceará) to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fobagastronomia.com.br\u002Fo-fantastico-feijao-manteiguinha-de-santarem\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efeijão manteiguinha-de-santarém\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is consumed in the Lower Amazon region. As renowned anthropologist Luís da Câmara Cascudo affirmed\u003Cstrong\u003E, \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Efor Brazilians, a meal without beans is incomplete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut far from an arbitrary phenomenon, the symbolic power invested in an ordinary legume (whose pods provide the seeds we eat) also tells the story of Brazil's turbulent socio-political history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Amazon's staple food that kills\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200302-the-true-origins-of-the-humble-potato\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the humble potato changed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190114-why-brazilians-love-baby-talk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrazil's cute and complex small talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-19359111\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrazil gained independence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 19th Century, its inhabitants had long been feasting on beans. Although the first records of beans date to the 17th Century (one of them in the travelogue of Dutch explorer Johan Nieuhof, who travelled across the territory from 1640 to 1649), Brazil's Indigenous communities were eating the seeds long before colonisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to food sociologist Carlos Dória, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abebooks.co.uk\u002F9788565339278\u002FForma%C3%A7%C3%A3o-Culin%C3%A1ria-Brasileira-Portuguese-Brasil-8565339270\u002Fplp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Formation of Brazil's Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a native bean species from Peru (\u003Cem\u003EPhaseolus vulgaris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, known as \"common bean\") arrived in Brazilian territory from Peru thousands of years ago, washed along in the currents of the Amazon and Solimões rivers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut beans were never a key ingredient in the Indigenous diet. Instead, the popularisations of beans is a post-18th Century phenomenon that is closely related to the history of Brazil's inland colonisation. In order to explore and settle Brazil's interior, settlers needed a legume that was nutritious and easy to grow in all climates, including the semi-arid. That legume was beans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong with their expansionist ambitions, Portuguese settlers and their descendants brought with them an Iberian bean-eating tradition as well as beans species from the Mediterranean and their African colonies, including the black-eyed pea from West Africa, a region with a similar climate to Brazil's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most famous bean-based recipes, \u003Cem\u003Efeijão tropeiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (trooper beans; a combination of dry meat, red beans and cassava flour) refers to Brazil's historical \"troopers\" – the men in charge of opening roads and taking much-needed goods, from fabric to salt to soap, into the interior – most notably during the 17th to 19th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETypical in the states of São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Goiás, trooper beans reflect the non-perishable solution required for long inland expeditions; what Dória calls the \"dry culinary\" culture, where dry bean dishes meant that the troops didn’t need to cook as frequently. \"Troops were not able to light a fire and heat their food at any time. So, they found a way to mix things up,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENutritious, cheap and easy to grow, beans helped address hunger in a Brazil historically composed of poor and enslaved people. Combined with cassava and, since the late 19th Century, rice, beans have represented the bare minimum to keep Brazilians going through the day. \"Poor used to be someone who didn't even have a bean tree at home,\" said Dória.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs an ingredient long associated with the subsistence of lower-income people, beans have set a clear class division in Brazil. Until the 1920s, elites, a group that included big landowners, bankers and industrialists, would refuse to eat beans in an attempt to distinguish themselves from the rest of the nation. While bean consumption remains prevalent among the poorer these days (\u003Cem\u003Eprato feito\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a basic combination of rice, beans and meat remains the cheapest meal option across Brazilian cities), this class stigma changed after the country's nationalist-modernist project took hold a century ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1922 to 1945, intellectuals and artists realised that rather than mirroring itself on France (once considered a civilisational role model), Brazil needed to define itself from a local perspective. As they sought to create a national identity, anthropologists and sociologists built a narrative around elements that reflected the essence of being Brazilian. The bean-based diet was one of these elements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The modernists had to find an element of otherness, one that distinguished Brazil regarding all the other nations,\" said Adriana Salay Leme, who wrote her master's thesis on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.teses.usp.br\u002Fteses\u002Fdisponiveis\u002F8\u002F8138\u002Ftde-26052015-122424\u002Fpt-br.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeans, owners of traditions: identity representation and effective consumption in Brazil (1973-2009)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"Beans represented this identity marker because, at the time of modernism, no other nationality had a food culture as influenced by beans consumption as Brazil's.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is no food so popular in Brazil as beans… they are the culinary symbol of our national identity","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, travellers to Brazil will undoubtedly come across feijoada (a black bean and pork stew) accompanied by rice, \u003Cem\u003Efarofa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (toasted cassava flour), orange and collard greens. Usually cooked on Saturdays and accompanied by Brazil's flagship drink caipirinha, feijoada is ever-present at samba events, soccer games and even on religious days like Saint George's, the patron of Rio de Janeiro. No wonder it's called the most Brazilian of all dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the dish doesn't only occupy a special place in local culture because of its flavours. Its immense popularity came about due to modernists promoting the plate as the ultimate synthesis of Portuguese, Indigenous and Afro-diasporic traditions. \"The pork would represent the Portuguese cuisine; the cassava flour would represent the Indigenous food culture; the black beans would represent the colour of the Africans,\" Dória explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe narrative that grounded feijoada's fame, however, has also been subject to criticism: by claiming an ethnically unified nation, it neglects socio-political tensions that have shaped Brazil's history. \"The discourse behind feijoada aims to mitigate social conflicts, such as slavery and class inequalities, in the name of a happy miscegenated Brazil,\" Leme said. \"This discourse aims to erase differences, silence tensions and unify the country towards one same national identity. The consequence of such discourse is that we don't really address the social problems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDória agrees. When feijoada presents itself as the culinary contribution of Indigenous, blacks and whites, it \"forgets [that] some have been decimated, others have been slaves, and the latter, cruel dominators,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe romanticised feijoada narrative has also led to misconceptions. Most people still believe the narrative that was sold by the intellectual elite in the mid-20th Century: that the dish was invented by enslaved African Brazilians who supposedly improvised amid scarcity by adding leftover pork to black beans. However, according to Câmara Cascudo, who published the anthological \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FHist%C3%B3ria-Alimenta%C3%A7%C3%A3o-Brasil-Em-Portuguese\u002Fdp\u002F8526015834\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistory of Food in Brazil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1967), feijoada, as we know it, was first seen in the eateries, pensions and hotels of 19th-Century Rio de Janeiro.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, feijoada still reigns in Rio, most notably at popular cultural events such as samba circles, where weekend parties at sanctuaries like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcacique_de_ramos\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECacique de Ramos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fjongodaserrinha\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa do Jongo da Serrinha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Frenascencaclube\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERenascença Clube\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are usually fuelled by a generous caldron of feijoada, with individual portions usually costing between R$15 and R$30.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a sharing plate, feijoada is seen as a social dish – as is the samba experience, where people sing, play and dance looking at each other in a single circle. This is why feijoada and samba go along so well, according to Dória. \"It is served in large amounts, alluding to a gregarious tradition present in the Portuguese, Indigenous and African cultures that have shaped Brazil's society. Feijoada, like samba gatherings, inspires communion,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeans are vitally important in Afro-Brazilian religions, too. In the rituals of Candomblé (the country's most disseminated Afro-Brazilian religion), beans are the base of many dishes symbolically offered in sacred rituals for the\u003Cem\u003E orixás\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (gods and goddesses). While feijoada is present in some rites, most bean-based recipes in this religion, like acarajé and \u003Cem\u003Eabará\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (another type of fritter), include black-eyed peas and palm oil – a heritage from some of the African cultures that came enslaved to Brazil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother of the many bean recipes in Candomblé is \u003Cem\u003Eomolokum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a dish made with black-eyed peas, boiled eggs, smoked dried shrimp and onions, that inspired Leila Leão to found \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcasaomolokum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa Omolokum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Rio restaurant dedicated to Afro-Brazilian religious cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is the sociological role of beans in a diverse and vast country like Brazil","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Omolokum, Leão brings the food of the orixás to Rio's gastronomic scene. \"I like to adapt traditional Candomblé recipes and discover new possibilities. It is a delicious alchemy experience to play with beans, an ingredient so rich in flavour, aroma and beauty,\" said the cook, who, as a Candomblé practitioner, had to ask for the orixás' permission to sell the sacred dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the continued importance of beans in Brazilian culture, however, Brazilians are no longer the massive bean-eaters they used to be. Since the 1970s, their consumption has been declining considerably, with ultra-processed foods gaining space in meals. Even so, their symbolism remains. Beans, as Dória puts it, still represent the common denominator of this continental-sized nation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's the food through which people either distinguish themselves from each other – whether in terms of status or affection – or get closer to each other,\" he said. \"This is the sociological role of beans in a diverse and vast country like Brazil.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBeatriz Miranda is a Brazilian journalist based in Rio de Janeiro, covering the intersections of culture and social issues in her country.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-15T19:01:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Where a meal without beans is incomplete","headlineShort":"The dish that defines Brazil","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.9068","longitude":"43.1729","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Brazil, poverty, colonisation and modernism turned beans into the culinary symbol of this continent-sized nation.","summaryShort":"More than just a favoured ingredient, beans are a symbol of national identity","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-17T08:58:46.901449Z","entity":"article","guid":"b7b4f0c8-b210-4097-8663-3d1a1bef443f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:29:04.39194Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","_id":"62df7f4143d9f46daa5b788f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell"],"bodyIntro":"With a mouth-numbing effect that's similar to – but stronger than – the Chinese spice, jambu is a potent, electrifying herb that is starting to tingle tastebuds nationwide.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJambu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E takes about three seconds to kick in and then it happens all at once: the prickly buzz of electricity, the numbness, the intense salivation. It's the same unbearable yet pleasurable intensity of chilli pepper, except instead of heat, there's a cool, numbing sensation that takes a long time to subside and leaves you wanting more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mouth-numbing effects of this Brazilian herb, which has been used in medicine and gastronomy for centuries in the Amazon, are reminiscent of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\"\u003ES\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eichuan pepper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But while the latter is a staple of Chinese cuisine, jambu has only recently begun tingling tastebuds nationwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Jambu was so exciting when I first discovered it,\" said Fabio La Pietra, creative director of the award-winning São Paulo cocktail bar \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.subastor.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESubAstor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It opened the door for me to Brazil's incredible biodiversity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJambu, known by the scientific name \u003Cem\u003Eacmella oleracea,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as well as a range of English-language monikers (including paracress, buzz buttons and electric daisy), grows and looks like a weed. During summer months, however, its mundane appearance is redeemed by tiny, button-like clusters of yellow blooms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese fuzzy flowers contain the highest concentration of the compound responsible for jambu's numbing effects: a fatty acid called \u003Cem\u003Espilanthol. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThe compound is similar in structure to the active ingredient in Sichuan pepper, though the latter is much milder in effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckgmn3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpilanthol is so potent, in fact, that jambu is also used for medicinal purposes, hence one of its English aliases: \"toothache plant\". Indigenous people have used jambu to treat mouth ulcers and dental problems for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, the herb was almost unknown outside of Brazil's Amazon region, where it is a feature of traditional dishes like \u003Cem\u003Etacacá\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sour prawn broth in which jambu highlights the sharp, savoury notes of wild cassava roots. Now, buoyed by a wider, growing interest in Brazilian ingredients and products, jambu is beginning to make its way from an obscure regional staple to a national symbol of Brazilian biodiversity. The main push behind this is the recent trend of combining the electric herb with cachaça, a sugarcane spirit that is synonymous with Brazilian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When people started using jambu I thought, 'wow, about time',\" said Néli Pereira, a São Paulo-based mixologist who has known about jambu for longer than most. \"Of course, in Belém they have been using it forever,\" she continued, referring to the capital of Pará, a state in the north of Brazil through which the lower Amazon river flows to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPereira first tasted jambu at a Dona Onete concert in 2014. The Brazilian singer and cultural icon from Pará has a famous song about jambu that includes a deliciously rhythmic repetition of the word \"treme\", meaning \"it trembles\". It was during this song that concert organisers started spraying cachaça jambu into the mouths of willing spectators.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's pop, it's traditional, it's gastronomy, but it's also playful – there's a whole vibe to it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot only does jambu accentuate the fiery notes of the alcohol, but its numbing properties make jambu cachaça \"interesting to kiss with\", according to Pereira. It is, in other words, the perfect party drink. \"Jambu is everything,\" she said, \"It's pop, it's traditional, it's gastronomy, but it's also playful – there's a whole vibe to it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckgm8m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELeodoro Porto, proprietor of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbotecomeugaroto\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMeu Garoto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bar in Belém, is credited with creating the first jambu-infused cachaça back in 2011. While Pereira was an early adopter, incorporating it into cocktail creations after her 2014 concert experience, it was only around 2018 that jambu cachaça brands started cropping up outside of Pará, introducing the herb to a national audience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The last few years have made a lot of difference to jambu,\" said Rodrigo França, co-founder of São Paulo-based drinks brand\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.josbrasil.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Jós Brasil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cachaça jambu producers outside of Pará.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We know so much about products from other countries, but not about those that are truly Brazilian","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrança and his three co-founders first stumbled upon jambu cachaça in late 2017 while on holiday in Alter do Chão, a freshwater resort town in Pará. \"It was the only bar open and the only drink they had,\" França said. The friends knew nothing about jambu and were blown away by their first collective encounter with its \"trembling\" effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFailing to find the spirit back home in São Paulo – the world's fourth largest city where just about everything is usually available – they started making their own jambu cachaça at a distillery in the state of São Paulo. However, they were surprised people knew so little about such a quintessentially Brazilian product. \"How come something can be a cultural phenomenon in the north of Brazil, but unknown in São Paulo?\" França asked. \"We know so much about products from other countries, but not about those that are truly Brazilian.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJambu's recent popularity is intimately entwined with a wider, growing interest in Brazilian ingredients and cultural identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckglw5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We learned from abroad what is good and what's not,\" said Felipe Jannuzzi, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brme.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBR ME\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an online store that specialises in Brazilian ingredients. Jannuzzi continued, \"What was cool was what was foreign, but the younger generation is finding a new cool – we are learning how to appreciate our own culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I met him recently at his offices in downtown São Paulo, Jannuzzi excitedly gathered Brazilian coffee, olive oils and botanicals to show me. Next, he poured me a gin he created using a spice called \u003Cem\u003Epacová\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an indigenous equivalent to cardamom. \"You can ask anybody here about it – no one will have heard of it,\" he said. \"We used to use pacová here in Brazil but it was replaced by cardamom from abroad, so I created this gin as a way to talk about Brazilian tradition and diversity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrazil is the world's biodiversity champion. It is home to more species of plant than anywhere else on the planet, and several incredibly important ecosystems. The Amazon is the rock star, but there is also the Atlantic Forest, which stretches along the coast of Brazil; the Cerrado, a vast tropical savannah twice the size of Egypt; and the Pantanal, the world's largest tropical wetland area. These ecosystems are home to countless unique species of plants, many of which are edible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in the north of São Paulo, grows a number of these obscure, edible plants, or what are referred to in Brazil as PANCs – an acronym in Portuguese for \"non-conventional edible plants\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst coined in 2007 by biologist Valdely Kinupp, PANC has since evolved into a nationwide movement that seeks to elevate the hundreds of species of edible plants that have been squeezed from our diets by industrialised food habits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckglnl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited Sabor De Fazenda, Barbara Cordovani, a specialist in edible botanicals, showed me a few stars of the PANC movement that I recognised from menus at trendy restaurants, such as \u003Cem\u003Eora-pro-nóbis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a dark green leaf that has earned the moniker \"poor man's meat\" due to its incredibly high protein content.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Brazilian food, we use aromatic herbs, mostly from the Mediterranean, but we have so many native plants with similar aromas,\" Cordovani said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne example of these substitutes is \u003Cem\u003Ealfavaca anis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The herb is a favourite of Clarissa Taguchi, founder of PANCS Brasil and another specialist in native Brazilian ingredients. Indigenous to the Atlantic Forest and a relative of basil, alfavaca anis has a more complex, liquorice-like flavour reminiscent of star anise. \"I've fallen in love with many other PANCs since,\" Taguchi said, \"But this was my first.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy substituting native plants for imported ingredients, PANC proponents hope to protect Brazilian biodiversity by celebrating it. Cardovani and Taguchi both credit Brazilians' growing environmental awareness for the current popularity of PANCs. \"People are realising how much food production impacts biodiversity and the environment,\" Taguchi told me, \"so they are sourcing locally.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This movement has started gaining momentum and I don't think it's a trend. It's something that is here to stay","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJambu is only one of countless Brazilian ingredients coming to the fore, but with its signature numbing effect and good-time reputation, it makes a fantastic ambassador for Brazil's biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's thrilling,\" Jannuzzi said. \"It's a big challenge, but a big opportunity too.\" Pereira shares his optimism. \"This movement has started gaining momentum and I don't think it's a trend,\" she said, \"it's something that is here to stay.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-08T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Brazil's answer to the Sichuan pepper","headlineShort":"A herb so spicy it anaesthetises","image":["p0ckgmsh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-23.533773","longitude":"-46.625290","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ckgmsh"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With a mouth-numbing effect that's similar to – but stronger than – the Chinese spice, jambu is a potent, electrifying herb that is starting to tingle tastebuds nationwide.","summaryShort":"It has a strange mouth-numbing effect and a good-time reputation","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-07T23:59:54.403046Z","entity":"article","guid":"fcd6963b-b32e-4e94-be71-c0faa9d9552f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T11:21:20.314635Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbrazil","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_brazil_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","_id":"62df80b443d9f457574077a7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENicolai Meyer stepped away from his restaurant's deep fryer to offer a quick lesson in geography.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're in Belgium,\" he explained, then pointed through the window. \"The road is Germany. Then it's Belgium. Then Germany.\" The entire area he described spanned perhaps 50m.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI picked up one of his chips, which he assured me was a true Belgium \u003Cem\u003Efrite\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, dipped it in mayonnaise and took a bite as I tried to make sense of this patchwork quilt borderland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat may be the world's most complicated boundary centres on a narrow ribbon of bike trail. Its history offers a window into a region that at times has been the battleground of Europe and an area where culture and geography intersect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cycling route follows an 1899 railroad called the Vennbahn, or Fens Railway, which connects the city of Aachen, Germany, with Luxembourg. Built by Germany's Prussian State Railway to haul coal, iron and steel, the railway fuelled industrial growth and prospered through World War One, when it was used to carry military supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen hostilities ended, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FTreaty-of-Versailles-1919\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1919 Treaty of Versailles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E awarded Belgium contested German land, along with the railroad and its tracks that connected it. That included a 28km corridor that left several pockets of German land completely cut off from the rest of the country. One section was annexed by Belgium and later returned to Germany in 1958, but five others remain as enclaves – a territory completely surrounded by another territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, one of the enclaves created by the Vennbahn covers just 1.5 hectares and contains a single farm. Others include small towns or sections of villages, the biggest covering about 1,800 hectares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter part of the 20th Century, traffic died down on the once-crucial rail line and a preservation group briefly tried to operate a tourist railroad. But in 2013, the former railway found new life when it was dedicated as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vennbahn.eu\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E125km paved bike path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E stretching through Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg. Cyclists now come from across Europe to pedal past medieval towns, nature reserves and misty farm fields dissected by centuries-old hedgerows. They also marvel at the preposterous border they're weaving in and out of. But the locals rarely pay attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChristian Strutz, a banker who lives in Germany, said it doesn't register that he's leaving his country when he drops by Meyer's restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNickis-Imbiss-168000860462574\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENicki's Imbiss\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in German-speaking east Belgium. \"It's very normal for us,\" he said, then stopped for a moment to think about it. \"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, life generally flows smoothly across the international boundaries, thanks largely to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-13194723\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchengen Treaty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which, when implemented in 1995, eliminated most internal European border controls. In one area, a German bus stops on a Belgian street to pick up passengers. In another, a postman must pass through Belgium every day to reach a German subdivision of small homes, and to pick up parcels left in a canary-yellow Deutsche Post mailbox.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut during the global pandemic, residents were reminded once again that they were straddling two nations. Inevitably, the Belgium and German responses to Covid-19 didn't completely align, which meant on some days proof of vaccine could be required for dining on one side of the border, but not the other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough it seems isolated, this region has repeatedly found itself at the crossroads of history. Charlemagne ruled his medieval empire from Aachen, where the Vennbahn begins. Later, Napoleon ordered the construction of a road linking towns that would eventually be connected by the railway. Hitler seized the region and rail line in 1940, and cyclists can still see the \"dragon's tooth\" concrete barriers that were part of the defences erected by the Third Reich to stop the advance of Allied tanks. Four years later, US troops fought their way past the barriers and reached what is today the enclave of Roetgen, which became the first German village liberated during World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter the war, the area saw action of another sort. Locals found they could make a tidy profit by smuggling coffee beans from Belgium into Germany, where the prices were three times higher, giving the region a new nickname, the \"sinful frontier\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome carried the contraband across the High Fens, a preserved region of wetlands not far from the Vennbahn that's known for its moody weather and porous border. But most the smuggling centred on Mutzenich, one of the Vennbahn enclaves. The town now honours the criminals with a bronze statue of a man with a sack of coffee over his back crouching behind a rock in the middle of the road. Over a five-year period, the smugglers carried more than 1,000 tons of coffee across the border, bringing badly needed cash into an area impoverished by WW2.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMayor Jaqueline Huppertz, whose father was involved in the illegal trade, jokingly calls the activity an \"early type of regional development\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities that sounds straight out of a Hollywood thriller. Men would travel by foot, bicycle and car, even stowing coffee beans in an ambulance and a hearse. When police gave chase, the smugglers dropped sharpened metal spikes on the roadway to stop the pursuit. The German authorities, who were using specially equipped, high-speed vehicles, responded by attaching a plough to the front of their cars to clear the hazards, a creation locals called a \"broom Porsche\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, about 50 of Mutzenich's citizens were caught and imprisoned near Cologne; a blow to the small town, which lost its economic livelihood and a such a large chunk of its male population that its municipal football team couldn't compete because it lacked players. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany of the smugglers had donated money to help rebuild Mutzenich's war-damaged church, and the town's Catholic priest visited the inmates in prison to plead for their release. \"Even today, this church is popularly known as St Mocha,\" the mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the men received reduced sentences, possibly because German authorities realised that the town might eventually vote in a referendum to join Belgium, Huppertz explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the border is wide open, and the only indication you are entering a different country might be an easily overlooked street sign. Along the side of the Vennban, an occasional concrete marker sticks out of the weeds, marked B on one side and D on the other, abbreviations for Belgium and Deutschland. But the most convoluted border is the stretch near Meyer's chip shop in Raeren, Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter eating my share of frites, I embarked on an international journey, stepping off the pavement to briefly leave Belgium and then dart across German Highway 258 to reach the Vennbahn, which put me back into Belgium again. I entered a trailside restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kaffeefee-roetgen.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaffeefee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gets its electricity and water from Germany, although the business is regulated and licensed by Belgium. Café owners Waltraud and Norbert Siebertz live another 200m further east in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaltraud said most of her customers are typically cyclists who have no idea where they are. \"The criss-crossing and zig-zagging is quite a surprise to them – in a special way. They think they're illegally crossing the border.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter she serves them a beer or cappuccino and perhaps a cherry strudel, she offers the riders a bit of advice. Although the trail itself is in Belgium, they're actually much closer to German cities and services. \"If they have an accident, I tell them they should roll to the German side,\" she said, \"because the ambulance will come faster.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPlaces That Don't Belong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-29T10:21:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's weirdest border?","headlineShort":"The world's weirdest border?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.6479887","longitude":"6.1813807","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","summaryShort":"It's been nicknamed the \"sinful frontier\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-28T23:59:27.642867Z","entity":"article","guid":"2387e77b-3cc6-44da-bcc6-02864eb91e63","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T16:05:08.212247Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","_id":"62df80e143d9f4393f67e5c1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBorders are supposed to be simple in the Pyrenees. On the southern side of the mountain range, you're in Spain. On the northern side, you're in France. Visit Val d'Aran, though, and geopolitics takes a more complicated turn. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVal d'Aran is on the wrong side of the mountains. Geographically, this small mountain valley with its population of 10,000 people should be in France. But Val d'Aran is the only community within Spain's contiguous borders that's located on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOfficially, Val d'Aran is within the administrative boundaries of Catalonia, but despite being caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries, Val d'Aran has never surrendered its local identity. Key to that local identity is the Aranese language, which alongside Catalan and Spanish, is officially recognised as the third language of Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are Aranese because we speak Aranese,\" said Jusèp Loís Sans Socasau passionately, when I stepped into his office in Vielha, Val d'Aran's capital. It was early December and there was an ever-thickening layer of snow as the valley prepared for ski season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Aranese is the language of our valley,\" Sans Socasau added. \"And it's the language of our culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Vilac town in Val d'Aran decorated with flowers during summer","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESans Socasau is the president of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.institutestudisaranesi.cat\u002F\"\u003EInstitut d'Estudis Aranese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Institute of Aranese Studies) and his office was stacked with historical manuscripts and Aranese dictionaries and novels. \"Aranese is a Romance-based language,\" he explained, as I warmed up with a fresh coffee. \"It's very close to Latin, but it's evolved very differently to Spanish and French.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAranese is a distinct dialect of the Occitan language, which, in its medieval heyday, was spoken from the Pyrenees to Piedmont, located in what is now northern Italy. \"This was the territory of the Occitan language,\" Sans Socasau said proudly, pointing at a historical map. \"And it was the territory of the Troubadours\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope's strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's mysterious fourth language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th and 12th Centuries, there was an explosion of Occitan poetry across Europe. The language was spread far and wide by Troubadours, Occitan-speaking poets and writers who composed and performed medieval romances. Even Richard I of England – better known as Richard the Lionheart, and who held lands in France – spoke Occitan as a first language (his mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, came from an Occitan speaking region). In later centuries, though, Occitan would be replaced by other languages, and in southern France, where there are still tens of thousands of Occitan speakers, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe language has never been made official or \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\"\u003Eafforded government protections\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Val d'Aran, the Occitan language survived as Aranese, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fllengua.gencat.cat\u002Fweb\u002F.content\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdadesestudis\u002Faltres\u002Farxius\u002Fdossier_eulp-2018_aranes.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment figures suggest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that around 4,000 Val d'Aran residents – about 40% of the population – can read, write and speak Aranese. Despite being suppressed most recently during the Francisco Franco regime, which lasted until the dictator's death in 1975, Aranese received official recognition when Val d'Aran was granted autonomy by the Catalonian government in 1991. And in 2010, Aranese was proclaimed to be co-official alongside Spanish and Catalan, not just in Val d'Aran, but everywhere in Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchool children in Val d'Aran study in Aranese; there's a wealth of Aranese literature and articles; and radio shows and news programmes are broadcast in the language. \"The language still lives here, in our valley,\" said Sans Socasau, whose daughter tours across Europe singing and songwriting solely in the Aranese language. \"And this is the only place where the language is protected, where it is official.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Val d'Aran town with mountain view in the background","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince Val d'Aran is separated from the rest of Spain by the Pyrenees, my six-hour winter bus ride from Barcelona was only possible thanks to a 5km-long tunnel through the mountains that opened in 1948. When I arrived, snow capped the mountain tops that surround Vielha, while the buildings, with their pitched roofs, were distinctly different from the flat roofs of Catalonia's capital. All things considered, \"remote\" seemed like a good descriptor, and surely, I thought, this remoteness was a cause for the survival of the Aranese language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarla del Valle, an expert in medieval studies and director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\"\u003EMusèu \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edera Val d'Aran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me otherwise. \"Traditionally, it's said that Val d'Aran is an isolated place and that's why we've preserved our unique culture,\" she said. \"But that's not actually true, because Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle – whose surname means, \"of the valley\" – explained how Aranese has survived despite the influence of other languages, of which there are many in Val d'Aran. Del Valle, like most Aranese I met in the valley, is a polyglot. She joked how she spoke four and a half languages: Aranese, Catalan, Spanish, English and a bit of French.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the museum, information boards were written in three languages, Aranese, Catalan and Spanish. Displayed next to one another, the similarities and differences between the three Romance languages became more apparent. The most obvious difference was in the prepositions. For example, the phrase \"Artistic Legacy\" was written in Spanish as \"El Legado Artistico\". In Catalan, this became \"El Llegat Artistic\", while in Aranese, it was \"Eth Legat Artistic\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle explained that before the tunnel connecting Val d'Aran to Spain was built, the Aranese always looked to France for trade. Until the 18th-Century French Revolution, Val d'Aran was also religiously administered by bishops from the Diocese of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges in France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Houses of Vielha along the Garona River at sunset","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitically, though, Val d'Aran has for centuries been aligned with Spanish kingdoms, who were always looking to conquer the gateway to Catalonia. Fiercely independent, Val d'Aran played larger kingdoms against each other and always pledged its allegiance to the ruler that allowed the valley the most privileges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1313, Val d'Aran signed the Querimonia, a Magna-Carta like document that granted the valley semi-independence. The Querimonia was drawn upon in 1991, when Val d'Aran was again re-granted its historical right to self-rule after being integrated into Catalonia in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's all very game of thrones,\" said del Valle with a laugh. \"The history of Val d'Aran can be simplified to fighting and then negotiating. Always trying to remain independent. But we weren't quite as successful as Andorra. They succeeded there, and they are still independent. And they now pay less taxes than us!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Aranese flag was flying proudly outside the offices of the Conselh Generau d'Aran\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the local autonomous government, where I met with Juan Manuel Morell, who works for the local tourism board. He explained how geography has not only shaped Val d'Aran's history, but has shaped what it means to be Aranese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Here, it's all about the mountains and snow,\" Morell said. Val d'Aran has an Atlantic climate rather than a Mediterranean climate, a result of the River Garona flowing through the valley on its long journey to Bordeaux where it eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean. \"Val d'Aran is the only Atlantic facing valley in all of Catalonia,\" he added. \"And that makes you different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the region's mountain culture firsthand, Marta Peruga, who works in Vielha's tourist information office, recommended visiting the village of Bagergue, which, at an altitude of 1,424m, is the highest village in Catalonia. \"Get off the bus in Salardu,\" she told me. \"Then take the walking trail to Bagergue. It's a beautiful walk, even in the snow, and at the top you can try the cheese!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Village of Unha with church tower and stone houses in front of mountain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the hiking trail was snowed under when I jumped off the bus. Without snowshoes or cross-country skis, I took the 2km-long tarmacked road instead. Churches rise high above every village in Val d'Aran, and there was one standing tall at the entrance to Bagergue. Constructed in a local Romanesque style that was popular in the Middle Ages, Val d'Aran's churches were built not only as places of worship, but as castles, watchtowers and fortifications designed to guard the frontier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBagergue is home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ethe highest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003E-\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ealtitude cheese shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Catalonia, where local producers have revived a traditional mountain recipe that's regained its popularity throughout Val d'Aran; while testament to the weather and the alpine-esque culture, the villages I'd walked past to reach Bagergue – Salardu and Unha – had a museum dedicated to Pyrenean exploration and a museum solely dedicated to snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMorell said that as much as 92% of the valley's economy relies on tourism: hiking, mountain biking and rafting in the summer; and snow sports in the winter. Despite its official status and legal protections, Sans Socasau had mentioned that increasing tourism and immigration in Val d'Aran was resulting in Aranese being slowly being pushed out by larger languages like Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Not enough people speak Aranese,\" Sans Socasau said. \"Only around 20% of people in Val d'Aran speak the language regularly, at home. The language is in danger, and in 20 or 30 years, it might not even exist.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle sees things differently. Even if she speaks Spanish or Catalan as a way to communicate with tourists or newcomers, she also speaks Aranese at work, and she knows the second generation of migrant families settling in Val d'Aran all learn and are taught in Aranese at school. Indeed, the government estimates that around 80% of people who live in the valley understand Aranese, even if they don't always speak it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If you talk to the president of the Aranese language society,\" del Valle told me, \"he will say that Aranese is about to die. But Aranese is an official language in \u003Cem\u003Eall \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eof Catalonia. That gives our language some power, and even though we might speak Catalan or Spanish in the valley to understand each other, I don't think Aranese is in danger, at least not anytime soon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-18T20:43:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Aranese: Spain's little-known language","headlineShort":"The Spanish town lost in France","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"42.7440","longitude":"0.7913","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","summaryShort":"It has been caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-17T20:43:22.372366Z","entity":"article","guid":"c9716d5c-c50d-4876-8109-af3f69151067","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:20.796032Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","_id":"62df7f9d43d9f42c861a88f2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbest-of-bbc-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn 1 August, Switzerland’s National Day, summer holidaymakers are out in force. Flotillas of rafts and canoes bob along the Rhine River, sunbathers lay out on the grassy shore, and on the largely empty streets an occasional public bus rumbles by, decorated for the festivities with Switzerland’s familiar red flag with a white cross.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a perfect holiday scene, except for one nagging detail. All this merrymaking marking the anniversary of Switzerland’s confederation is taking place in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Our spirit and heart are Swiss","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“To make holidays here, it’s attractive,” explained Roland Güntert, deputy mayor of the town of Büsingen am Hochrhein in Germany. “This is just something you do. Our spirit and heart are Swiss.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reason? This tiny spot of Germany is entirely surrounded by Switzerland, which makes it both an enclave and exclave, geographic oddities to trivia fans, but confounding to everyone else.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor the cartographically curious, an enclave is a territory or section of a territory completely surrounded by another entity – a prime example is the tiny nation of Lesotho encircled by South Africa. It’s closely related to an exclave: a portion of a territory separated from its main part by another territory. Büsingen meets both definitions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181014-uupis-a-tiny-republic-of-free-spirits\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny ‘nation’ you’ve never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope’s strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171105-the-us-canada-border-runs-through-this-tiny-library\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA town split between two countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe village’s eastern border lies a mere 700m from the rest of the Federal Republic of Germany. And while politically this town of about 1,450 inhabitants belongs to Germany, economically it’s part of Switzerland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust like Switzerland, Büsingen operates outside of the European Union, and the town has been cited as a model for post-Brexit cooperation. Three years ago, a politician representing Belfast South suggested that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishtimes.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld\u002Fuk\u002Fa-few-in-westminster-begin-looking-at-border-controls-1.2730262\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland could be granted a special customs status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, similar to the one governing Büsingen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with Büsingen and Switzerland, there would be limited customs or immigration controls between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, proposed MP Alasdair McDonnell, meaning that Northern Ireland could leave the EU with Brexit but remain tied to the Republic of Ireland. “There is a precedent for this in the German town of Büsingen,” he said in a speech. Others, however, aren’t convinced, countering that the hamlet of Büsingen is hardly a stand-in for Northern Ireland, which has a population topping 1.8 million.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGüntert says at its heart, Büsingen’s arrangement is pretty simple. “We have German laws and German government, and on the other part, we have the Swiss economy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENowhere is the division more evident than at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waldheim-buesingen.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurant Waldheim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A line painted across its outdoor dining terrace marks the international border, so it’s possible to be served a plate of schnitzel in Switzerland, and then reach into Germany to grab a stein of beer from the other side of the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, for residents, living a binational life brings up daily contradictions and choices. Although commerce is typically conducted in Swiss francs and most residents work in nearby, larger Swiss towns, they still must pay the higher German income taxes. Children go to a local (German) primary school, but parents decide in which country they’ll attend high school. Likewise, Büsingen locals have both German and Swiss postal and international telephone codes: callers can dial either Germany’s +49 or Switzerland’s +41, and still ring a resident. And perhaps most notably, the town’s football club is the only German team allowed to play in the Swiss league.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was all an adjustment for Sarah Biernat, who lives 30 minutes away in Singen, Germany, and crosses multiple international borders during her daily commute to Büsingen. She knew nothing about the area, having come to the town only once as a child for a dental appointment. Then, 11 years ago, she took a job at Büsingen’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falte-rheinmuehle.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlte Rheinmühle hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and on her first day of work found herself giving a customer change in Swiss francs. “It was like play money to me,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven a decade later, the town still feels and sounds Swiss to her. “They talk like the Switzer. Their German is different.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with most of the globe’s enclaves and exclaves, there’s quite a backstory behind this territorial identity crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Büsingen, the problem began in 1693, long before Germany existed. The village was under Austrian control when a family feud over religious allegiance led to the kidnapping of the Catholic-leaning feudal lord of Büsingen. His cousins hauled him to the nearby Swiss (and Protestant) town of Schaffhausen, where he was sentenced to life in prison. It took six years and the threat of Austria invading Schaffhausen to finally free the lord.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They said it would never go back to Switzerland – never, ever, ever","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few decades later, when Austria sold its local holdings to the Swiss canton of Zurich, it held on to Büsingen – strictly out of spite, according to historians. “They said it would never go back to Switzerland. Never, ever, ever,” the deputy mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat meant that when parts of the Austrian Empire were later absorbed by Germany in the 19th Century, Büsingen was claimed by the new republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe orderly Swiss tried to clear up the mess in 1919 when it held a referendum that saw Büsingen residents voting by 96% to leave Germany. But Berlin wasn’t interested in giving the town up because Switzerland offered nothing in return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven in the chaos of World War Two, the arrangement remained. Before German soldiers could return home to Büsingen on leave, they had to check their guns at the border and cover up their military uniform with a cape, said Güntert, whose relatives served in the German army. After the war, the division continued, turning daily shopping trips into an exercise in global trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was complicated,” said Elizabeth Arpke, who grew up in the area but was visiting Büsingen for the holiday. “When you bought meat in Germany, you’d have to cross the border [into Switzerland] and fill out forms.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, in 1967, Germany and Switzerland agreed to add Büsingen to the Swiss customs area, which removed border controls and checkpoints around the village of less than 8 sq km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the problem is taxes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause the cost of living is higher in Switzerland than Germany, Büsingen residents typically earn larger salaries than their fellow countrymen. But since Germany has a higher tax rate, workers end up paying more than their Swiss neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, there’s a flip side too. Taxi driver Caroline Major estimates her rent is 50% less in Büsingen than if she lived a few kilometres away in Switzerland. She relocated from the German town of Friedberg two years ago and couldn’t be happier. “I love my life. There’s good energy here. It’s so, so nice here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOthers have discovered that too. Because Germany offers a tax break for pensioners, Büsingen attracts retired Swiss residents. The result: “The young people go to Switzerland, and the old people come here. The village gets older every day,” said Rainer Krause, whose daughter runs Restaurant Waldheim on the international border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitics aside, Büsingen makes for a lovely Rhine Valley getaway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThose intrigued by Büsingen’s centuries-old spat can hike a well-marked path, which the town interchangeably calls the Enclave or Exclave Trail. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buesingen.de\u002Fde\u002FFreizeit-Tourismus\u002FExklavenweg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 11-stop excursion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E takes in river views, international border markers and even a vineyard, where terraces of German Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes ripen before they’re trucked a few kilometres away to be made into Swiss wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the trail’s first stop, a town hall mural on the village’s main street, explains it best: a smiling worker holds a pole flying a German flag, while a Swiss one sticks out of his jacket pocket.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the confusion of living in a no-man’s land, life seems pretty good here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe deputy mayor notes how his village is ideally located under an hour by train from Zurich airport and a 10-minute bus ride to the Swiss town of Schaffhausen. As he sips an espresso at an outdoor cafe overlooking the Rhine, he points to the river where he played as a child and across the bank to the forest, a nature preserve protected from development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town, he says, “is like paradise” – another place, it’s worth noting, whose borders have never quite been defined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-23T14:47:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","headlineShort":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","summaryShort":"The small enclave of Büsingen has managed a binational existence for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:50.727171Z","entity":"article","guid":"d2088c89-db70-4810-a629-0855d9ec2899","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:54.383818Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","_id":"62df7f5743d9f46da9568bc2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When a Russian scientist identified the Malus sieversii as the progenitor of the domestic apple, harvests in Kazakhstan’s forests were bountiful; now this wild fruit is threatened.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWinter’s cool indifference had already embraced the snow-tipped peaks of the Tian Shan mountain system, winds whispering the tall trees into a state of undress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It is cold,” said Alexey Raspopov, a guide with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftrekkingclub.kz\u002Feng\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrekking Club Kazakhstan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pointing to the dashboard thermometer of his 4x4 as we ascended, leaving Kazakhstan’s second city Almaty to disappear beneath a layer of smog.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"One could see with his own eyes that this beautiful site was the origin of the cultivated apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter driving for about two hours to the Turgen Gorge, we abandoned the vehicle and continued on foot. The climb was not difficult, but biting gusts threatened to take the feeling from my fingertips and steal the words from my lips as I asked Raspopov, who has led hikes in the region for the past 30 years, about the landscape that unfolded before us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It has changed a lot,” he said, calling upon the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the thickening pollution and a shrinking glacier to illustrate his point – not that he needed to. The near disappearance of the forests of \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or wild apple, that once blanketed the foothills of the Trans-Ili Alatau section of the Tian Shan mountains (which also stretches to Kyrgyzstan), are testament enough to the changing times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180321-the-secret-cherry-taking-over-canada\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret fruit that can grow in -40C\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180130-macaroni-cheeses-mysterious-origins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMacaroni cheese’s mysterious origins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180517-the-island-fruit-that-caused-a-mutiny\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island fruit that caused a mutiny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen storied Russian scientist Nikolai Vavilov first identified the \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as the progenitor of the domestic apple, \u003Cem\u003EMalus domestica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, in 1929, the region’s forests were thick and their harvests bountiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“All around the city one could see a vast expanse of wild apples covering the foothills,” wrote Vavilov of his visit to Almaty, then Kazakhstan’s capital. “One could see with his own eyes that this beautiful site was the origin of the cultivated apple.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVavilov based these words on his idea that the ‘centres of origin’ of a species lie in the places where you find its highest genetic diversity. His observations that all domestic apples may originate from Almaty has since been confirmed by modern genetics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“At some point, either seeds, trees or budwood from desirable trees was taken out of the [\u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E] forests by humans and grown elsewhere,” said Gayle Volk, a research plant physiologist at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usda.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnited States Department of Agriculture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (USDA). “In some cases, those trees could have hybridised with wild apple species growing in other regions. The selection process continued.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESilk Road trade is believed to have scattered the fruit far and wide, eventually reaching North America with European colonists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being the first to scientifically assert Almaty’s association with the apple, Vavilov was not the first to observe fruit’s influence on the region. “Almaty used to be called Alma-Ata [the Russian name for the city],” Raspopov told me at the apogee of our ascent. “It means ‘father of apples’,” he added, before handing me an acid-green fruit the size of a child’s fist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZesty, sweet and deliciously crisp, it was not plucked from one of the nearly naked branches in front of us, which, when in season, bear apples of all shapes, sizes, flavours and textures – and, as Raspopov warned me, are rarely edible. Instead, this apple was a triumph of farming and cultivation, sadly the very same human endeavours that have ravaged the wild apple’s natural habitats. This thought did not stop me from accepting another though, listening as Raspopov continued: “Kazakh people, Almaty people, they are very proud of the apple. It comes from here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat pride is worn plainly for all to see throughout the city. Billboards bearing images of apples and Almaty’s tagline, ‘the city of [a] thousand colours’, advertise nothing else but the famous fruit, injecting bold pops of red along otherwise grey highways. At the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gmirk.kz\u002Fen\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Kasteyev State Museum of Arts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Kazakhstan’s biggest art museum, apples appear in oil paintings and metal sculptures. On a larger and more public scale, murals depicting the fruit adorn the sides of buildings, and a giant granite apple-shaped fountain is a point of attraction at Kok Tobe mountain, one of the city’s major landmarks. On my way to the cable car that takes visitors to its peak, I waited patiently in line to take a picture of a sunshine-yellow, Soviet-era car, stuffed full of plastic apples; the licence plate read ‘I love Almaty’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the city’s Green Bazaar, a farmers’ market thronging with locals wrapped up against the chill, precarious towers of apples fastidiously organised according to hue, size and shape beckoned. Slices were deftly cut and devoured, offered with a steady stream of Russian – the lingua franca here – and gratefully received with a grin and a quiet “\u003Cem\u003Espasiba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (Russian for ‘thank you’, and about the sum of my knowledge of the language).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Kazakh people, Almaty people, they are very proud of the apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust as the \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the progenitor of modern apples, the Green Bazaar is ground zero for Kazakh cuisine. Each aisle presents another ingredient or element fundamental to the country’s culinary history. There is the corner dedicated to horsemeat, from an animal so sacrosanct to the once-nomadic Kazakh people that it is considered a delicacy. Then there are countless Korean specialities, emblematic of the diaspora that led many Koreans to settle in Central Asia after being forcibly deported from Soviet Russia by Stalin in 1937, where they had fled following the breakdown of the Chosun dynasty in 1910. And there are pickles of almost every type imaginable, garnished with generous amounts of dill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEverything needed to make some of the country’s signature dishes can be found here. Take \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180101-is-oshi-palav-the-the-king-of-meals\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eplov\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Central Asian rice dish that each country has adapted slightly. In Kazakhstan, the twist comes in the form of apples, which are added to the customary lamb, carrots and onions for a bit of additional sweetness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while the region has gladly accepted the \u003Cem\u003EMalus domestica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as its own, Kazakhstan’s wild apples have been decidedly neglected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is currently listed as ‘vulnerable’ on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iucnredlist.org\u002Fspecies\u002F32363\u002F9693009\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EICUN Red List\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (last assessed in 2007), with its population ‘decreasing’. Threats to the few remaining forests include residential and commercial development, livestock farming and deforestation. Moves have recently been made to preserve those that remain in the Trans-Ili Alatau foothills by Italy’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fsievers-apple\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (which requires permits for visitors to enter the forest) with funding from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fculturesofresistance.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECultures of Resistance Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Again and again, Slow Food has demonstrated that slowing down and paying attention to what we eat is not just a matter of the lifestyle choices of the affluent,” said Iara Lee, director of Cultures of Resistance Network. “It’s about highlighting models of agroecology that provide alternatives to environmentally destructive corporate farming, where profit becomes the driving concern. We need alternative models now more than ever.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhether Vavilov foresaw such destructive human activity when he first visited Almaty is impossible to imagine. However, the visionary scientist made certain to collect \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seeds to protect the species and help prevent any future famine. He added them to his collection of 250,000 seeds, fruits and roots at one of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fvir.nw.ru\u002Fhistory\u002Fhistory.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world’s first gene banks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Leningrad (now St Petersburg).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDuring the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp00d5hkl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESiege of Leningrad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from 1941 to 1944, several botanists who worked at the gene bank chose to starve to death rather than eat the seeds stored there. Vavilov also died of starvation, imprisoned in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp01936z9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egulag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for falling out of favour with those in power. Thankfully, though, his legacy survives to this day. Now named the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.vir.nw.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVavilov Institute of Plant Industry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (VIR), the gene bank is the only facility of its kind in Russia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We collect, evaluate, maintain and use the collection according to Vavilov’s theories and approaches,” said Igor Loskutov, the head of the institute’s rye, barley and oats genetic resources department. “We are working to prevent the loss of genetic diversity and genetic erosion. The VIR is important not only for Russia, but for the whole of mankind.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVolk agreed: “The wild species in their native habitats will always be important, however, gene banks increase accessibility to the wild species and can serve as a partial backup in case of unexpected circumstances,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the case of Almaty’s wild apple forests, let’s hope those unexpected circumstances never arise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack in the birthplace of the modern apple, the work of Vavilov, along with his courageous colleagues and his contemporaries, is a footnote in the story of a city whose identity is entwined with the fruit. To celebrate their work, and to satisfy a sudden craving, I stepped into a street-side stall and bought a mottled green-and-red apple. It was delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this article misidentified the car filled with apples as a Volga. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-21T15:50:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The birthplace of the modern apple","headlineShort":"The surprising origin of the apple","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When a Russian scientist identified the Malus sieversii as the progenitor of the domestic apple, harvests in Kazakhstan’s forests were bountiful; now this wild fruit is threatened.","summaryShort":"Silk Road trade is believed to have scattered the fruit far and wide","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:25:58.212454Z","entity":"article","guid":"866026e0-feff-4b84-9f20-4162d2b70153","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:40:05.298149Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","_id":"62df7ed843d9f46d891341f9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy called “pastila”. And now the lost sweet is making a comeback thanks to some inventive and resourceful women.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp08vcwmj.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because everything around me – the river, the cathedrals, the beautiful views – breathes history. Kolomna, Russia, has learned to live with its heritage; this gives us our love and our passion for what we do.” \u003Cem\u003E– Natalia Nikitina, entrepreneur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWomen in crinolines and bonnets, carrying trays loaded with treats and dainty teacups, weave their way between white cast-iron tables beneath the boughs of old fruit trees. People chat and enjoy the sunshine as it glints off the golden onion domes of the neighbouring church, while steam from a samovar swirls gently into the air. Along with these other visitors, I came here for a little taste of history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe setting for this garden cafe is the medieval town of Kolomna, which lies 113km south-east of Moscow in a picturesque location at the confluence of three rivers. Kolomna has been renowned for its gardens and orchards since the 15th Century. In spring, a froth of apple and cherry blossom spills over into the streets from behind pastel-painted wooden palisades – a short-lived but spectacular display. Fruit has always been grown here, and it is no accident that the name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy: \u003Cem\u003Epastila\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPastila, pronounced with the stress on the final “a”, was first mentioned in the 16th-Century Russian Domostroi (Domestic Order), a codex of household rules and instructions on various religious, social and domestic matters. Originally developed as a means of preserving the apple harvest and providing a sweet treat throughout the winter months, it has nothing to do with the French \u003Cem\u003Epastille\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (another kind of sweet); instead, its name comes from the Russian verb \u003Cem\u003Epostelit’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (to lay out).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPastila is often equated with marshmallow, but this comparison does not do justice to its uniquely ethereal quality. It is made by baking apples until they are soft, then blending them into a purée before whipping them “into clouds” with egg whites and sugar. The mixture is spread out onto trays to a depth of about 2cm, then dried in a cool oven before being cut into strips or shapes. It’s an entirely natural product made exclusively from fresh ingredients; no starches, additives, colourings or preservatives are used, and it is low in calories. Pastila production requires firm, sour apple varieties – Russia’s famous Antonovka is the most suitable, being richer in pectin (a natural gelling agent) than other varieties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was in Kolomna, with its abundance of apple orchards, that the finest, fluffiest version is said to have been made. As an unknown source once proclaimed, “they have turned apples into clouds!”. From 1862, when the town became connected to Moscow via rail link, the reputation of Kolomna pastila spread across Russia and the product was sold in Moscow, St Petersburg and beyond. It continued to be manufactured in the town until 1914, when \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fwwone\u002Feastern_front_01.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewar and revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E put paid to the industry. From that year on, pastila became a forgotten taste and the town slipped into decline. Many of the town’s beautiful old buildings were left to decay, and Kolomna’s lack of inclusion in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp06bkqb5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia’s Golden Ring tourist route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E meant no visitors came to spend their money there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut recently, all of that has been changing thanks largely to the efforts of some inventive and resourceful women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190826-why-food-memories-are-so-powerful\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy food memories are so powerful\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200803-russias-beloved-healing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia’s beloved healing ritual\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190212-russias-strange-bread-sniffing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to drink vodka like a Russian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story of the town’s revival goes back to 2008, when Kolomna hosted the European Speed Skating Championships. Tasked by the town council with creating a souvenir gift for visitors and competitors, council project manager Natalia Nikitina looked into the town’s history to come up with a gift specific to Kolomna.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor inspiration, she turned to the 18th-Century works of Ivan Lazhechnikov, the son of a rich Kolomna merchant. Reading his historical novel, The Ice Palace, Nikitina a was intrigued when she found a reference to a sweet treat called pastila. Together with her friend Elena Dimitrieva (who had a financial background in the construction industry) she started to research it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rsl.ru\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussian State Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E turned up several recipes from its archives, all of them involving oven-baked apples, beaten egg whites and honey or sugar. But they were too vague to be useful. One example came from the notebooks of Tolstoy’s wife Sofia, who wrote: “Put the apples in a cooling oven after baking bread” – but for how long, and at what temperature?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It kept splattering everywhere when we whipped it – it took us hours to clean it from the walls!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe women realised there was no option but to attempt their own experiments. Nikitina cheerfully describes their early efforts: “It kept splattering everywhere when we whipped it – it took us hours to clean it from the walls!” she said. But with patience and much experimentation, they finally came up with a satisfactory formula for baking, whipping and drying the mixture. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHaving successfully created their product, the women needed to find a suitable manufacturer to produce the pastila at scale. They approached seven confectionery firms within a radius of 100km, but none were able or willing to adapt their equipment. Undeterred, they simply set up their own factory in premises leased from the council, commissioning specially designed equipment based on archive sketches of old machinery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther research led to the discovery of some original packaging and labels, which the women used as templates for their own packaging. Armed with Dimitrieva’s business experience, they sourced their own paper and card, and set up a packaging production line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs work progressed, their research at the State Library continued to uncover anecdotes and diary entries associating pastila with Catherine the Great, Pushkin, Tolstoy and Dostoevsky, among other famous people and events. Dostoevsky, they learned, enjoyed the sweet treats with his cup of tea; his wife Anna wrote that he particularly loved his strips of red and white pastila (the red variety would likely have been flavoured with raspberry or redcurrant).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina also found references to different flavours and textures of pastila and set about both recreating them and developing new ones. They now produce dozens of varieties, including the fluffy “white-foam” type; dense strips of \u003Cem\u003Esmokva\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fruit leather); pretty layer cakes with pink icing; airy \u003Cem\u003Ezefirs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (similar to marshmallows); and pastila with additional natural flavours such as apricot, raspberry, cherry and plum. Perhaps the most desirable variety is \u003Cem\u003Emuftovaya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, named after the soft muffs worn by aristocratic women to keep their hands warm; it’s made by adding the egg whites to the apple puree while it is still hot, and beating for at least 10 hours, which makes it even airier than the usual varieties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E(And what did they do with all those egg yolks that weren’t required in the pastila? Ever resourceful, the women decided to use them by manufacturing traditional \u003Cem\u003Elapsha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or noodles).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina, whose creative vision drove the enterprise, sensed that people wanted not just to taste the product, but to understand its heritage. With a grant from the philanthropic \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.fondpotanin.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPotanin Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and support from the town council, in 2009 the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkolomnapastila.ru\u002Forchard\u002Fmuseum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Forgotten Flavours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was born – Russia’s first living museum, designed for people to taste pastila in the place it was originally made and enjoy learning about it from actors wearing 19th-Century costume. The charming garden café at the museum is where I experienced these treats. “This is a new kind of museum for Russia,” said Nikitina. “We’re preserving and presenting our intangible heritage, something ephemeral and elusive – tastes, smells, the culture of everyday living, a manner of talking.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina knows she has revived something very special. “Pastila is natural and tasty, it looks beautiful, and it’s high quality,” she said. “Most importantly, this is not something that was ever made in Europe or anywhere else. It’s associated only with Russia, and we should be proud of this culinary and cultural heritage.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWord quickly started to spread, and soon visitors were arriving from miles away to try a little taste of history. But pastila was just the start of Kolomna’s renaissance. Ever curious to learn more about the town’s heritage, Nikitina also found historical references to a traditional type of bread bun called a \u003Cem\u003Ekalach\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, made from dough that is twisted or braided so that each bun has its own handle. Soon, this too was being put into production, and further grant funding enabled Nikitina to establish a separate \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkolomnakalach.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebakery-museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe literary connections with pastila inspired Nikitina and her team to instigate an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartkommunalka.com\u002Fenglish\u002Fcontent\u002Ffotogalereya\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Earts residency\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fantonovkapples.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual book festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and before long, the positive atmosphere in the town encouraged other small creative businesses to open.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA cluster of traditional industries is now developing (such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.d-radosti.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoap\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, silk and ceramics) in Kolomna’s \u003Cem\u003Eposad\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (merchants’ quarter), just as there would have been centuries ago. Many employment opportunities have been created; Nikitina herself now employs around 100 people across a clutch of new museums, shops, cafes and production facilities. Many of Kolomna’s traditional wooden houses have been restored, showing off their decoratively carved \u003Cem\u003Enalichniki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or window frames. Kolomna is now firmly back on the map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Humanity will be renewed in the orchard","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coronavirus pandemic has brought its share of difficulties, of course, but Nikitina’s vision and passion remain undiminished. Continuing to reinvest all profits back into the business, she is now forging ahead with new plans. Part of her inspiration comes from the short story Antonov Apples by Nobel laureate Ivan Bunin, which he wrote in 1900 as a paean to the departed traditions of the Russian countryside. In the story, Bunin refers to several varieties of Russian apples which have now disappeared: Borovinka, Belle-Dame and Plodovitka, for example.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s such a pity that these names have disappeared,” said Nikitina. “In Russian supermarkets these days, you either see foreign varieties, or they’re just marked ‘Russian’ or ‘seasonal’, with no names at all.” Nikitina wanted to start hunting down varieties of heritage fruit, specifically those that have connotations with Russian literature – such as the summer apple Arkad, Tolstoy’s favourite. But she didn’t have the expertise to do it alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnter \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.archeologiaarborea.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsabella Dalla Ragione\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an “arboreal archaeologist” from Perugia, Italy, who specialises in rescuing old fruit-tree varieties from extinction. She is helping to locate and identify heritage varieties so that an orchard of Russian apple trees can be grown on land purchased by Nikitina next to Dostoevsky’s family estate of Darovoye, not far from Kolomna. In addition to the collection, there will be a “fruit forest” and an experimental and educational garden, which among other things will provide edible flowers that can be sold to local restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENikitina’s inspiration, she said, comes from Dostoevsky. In a diary entry from 1876 he wrote: “I’m not sure how all this will happen, but it will happen; there will be an Orchard. Mark my words: though it be a hundred years from now […] Humanity will be renewed in the Orchard, and the Orchard will restore it – that is the formula.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-26T13:07:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Kolomna: The Russian town built by apple sweets","headlineShort":"The Russian town built by apples","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.0816286","longitude":"38.7582147","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy called “pastila”. And now the lost sweet is making a comeback thanks to some inventive and resourceful women.","summaryShort":"A comeback sweet has put it back on the map","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:42.805704Z","entity":"article","guid":"adab95c2-cd77-4d47-a3bb-192c67416737","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:42.457972Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","_id":"62df7e9643d9f4573e67fd76","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Forced rhubarb – a vegetable deprived of sunlight for extra sweetness – has been eaten in Yorkshire since the 19th Century. Now the culinary treasure is having a renaissance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first there was a pop, then a mesmerising sound that drifted through the air like crackling wildfire. An unfamiliar snap and fizz echoed from the inky blackness, followed by another wonderfully alien noise and a phantom whisper of gently rustling leaves. “Listen,” Janet Oldroyd Hulme murmured excitedly. “This is the moment of reckoning.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is the moment of reckoning","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a Friday lunchtime, and Oldroyd Hulme was peering through a dark, cavernous doorway into what she calls her ‘unearthly world’ – a hangar-sized shed alive with the sound of several types of rhubarb in varying stages of accelerated growth. The vegetable was growing so fast, the air seemed to ripple with applause as it matured. The green-leaved, pink-stalked plant was familiar to me, but the situation was not.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvery detail inside the out-of-time barn carried hidden meaning. There were flickering candles elevated on spikes, all thinly spread out to help workers navigate the blackness without fear of treading on the prized crop. There were shadowy hoes propped against the brick walls to help mulch the earth. There was the outline of gas propane heaters, and a sprinkler system to intensify the heat and humidity in the dark. There were around half a million buds – all cultivated in rows and all making groaning sounds as they germinated at an unnatural speed. It was a riveting exhibition of Mother Nature at work, yet a display teetering on the edge of the surreal. And one all-the-more glorious for rarely being seen by outsiders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland’s forgotten superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190318-a-forgotten-food-of-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe foraged green that can kill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising origin of the apple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECome to West Yorkshire during the rhubarb harvest in mid-winter and you can expect to hear tales of this strange agricultural ritual. Here, land gathers into a swathe of greenbelt that points to the cities of Bradford, Leeds and Wakefield. Some 23 sq km in area, the realm is punctuated by the odd cathedral and castle and framed by plunging dales to the north and the gently sloping foothills of the Pennines to the west. But it is also a pocket of frozen, flinty soil with high rainfall where one of the world’s most complex vegetables grows in abundance. And it would be a peculiar place even without the name ‘the Rhubarb Triangle’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOldroyd Hulme and her family business \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yorkshirerhubarb.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EE Oldroyd & Sons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have made their name producing this one-of-a-kind Yorkshire rhubarb on Ashfield Farm in the village of Carlton for five generations. But speak to her about the county that she calls home and it’s clear her values are aligned with the area’s expression of good food that has remained unchanged for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rhubarb has been called ‘God’s great gift’,” said Oldroyd Hulme, who is also known as the ‘high priestess of rhubarb’ for her knowledge on the subject. “Watch and you can see the plants shooting towards the light – just as we would warm our hands on a fire.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA notoriously fickle vegetable to harvest, Yorkshire forced rhubarb is anything but easy to grow. It thrives in the county’s cold winters, but if the soil is too wet, it can’t be planted. If the temperature is too hot, it won’t grow; and 10 or more frosts are needed before a farmer can even think about forcing it. Only then can horticulturalists remove the heavy roots from the field, then clean and replant them inside the forcing sheds where photosynthesis is limited, encouraging glucose stored in the roots to stimulate growth. It demands patience, expertise and good fortune, and, ultimately, it is engineered for maximum taste: once deprived of light, the vegetable is forced to use the energy stored in its roots, making it far sweeter than the normal variety.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo learn more, I visited Vicky Whiteley of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhiteleysfarm.blogspot.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhiteley’s Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which produces around 12 acres of forced rhubarb annually in the nearby town of Pudsey. Using her ‘rhubarb map’ to work out which crop grows in which field, she introduced me to numerous varieties – Stockbridge Arrow, Harbinger, Timperley, Dawes, Canada Red, Strawberry, Cawood Delight, Red Champagne, and Victoria and Albert. “Rhubarb is in our blood and there’s no doubt Yorkshire is the rhubarb capital of the world,” she said. “But whatever price you get, remember it took three years to get these precious few weeks of growth.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor a simple vegetable, rhubarb has come a long way since it was discovered growing wild on the banks of the River Volga. Cultivated from Siberia to China as far back as 2700 BC, where it was used for its healing properties, it was transported along the Silk Road to Italy in the 13th Century by Marco Polo. It once commanded three times the price of opium and saffron, and was weighed against gold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Rhubarb is in our blood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt took another three centuries – up to around the 1620s – before it was brought to England by Sir Matthew Lister, royal physician to James I and Charles I, and used as a cathartic food to purge the body of illness. That would have been the end of the story if it wasn’t for scientists at London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChelsea Physic Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who discovered the forcing process by chance. Covering up leftover rhubarb crowns – the underground part of the plant – with soil in 1817, the gardeners were stunned weeks later when the robust plant produced a shock of sweet pink stems and frilly leaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver time, and thanks to West Yorkshire’s dependably wet weather, forced rhubarb came north. The late 19th Century was a time of dramatic change in England due to the Industrial Revolution, and the vegetable was first forced in 1877, principally to fill a gap in the area’s market-garden economy. Yet what followed was an explosion in its popularity. Soon after, daily ‘Rhubarb Express’ trains transported the valuable cargo from Leeds to London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coventgarden.london\u002Fmarkets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovent Garden Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the tonne. Today’s disappointment is where once there was 200 producers, now there are just 11 left. Problems with post-World War Two logistics saw production falter, and changing tastes meant the local industry never fully recovered. But thanks to local artisans, a renaissance is being sparked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs might be expected, much of the Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle remains oriented towards eating rhubarb in all its many forms. It is in an alliance with everyday life, and is added to everything, from soups, salads and gravies to elevated interpretations of jams, gins, beers, ice creams and pies. It is hard to tell what the future holds, but it is a comforting reminder of home for locals, and talk is always animated when discussing a rhubarb renaissance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In this area, it represents innovation and opportunity and it’s an economic lifeline,” said Richard Holmes of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cryerandstott.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECryer and Stott\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cheesemonger with a line in forced rhubarb-flavoured Wensleydale among its 600 other cheeses. Needless to say, the ‘Rhu Crumble’ is the cornerstone of his business. “It has a subtle flavour, so it gives an opportunity to go either sweet or savoury. It’s a great vehicle to carry other flavours.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo conversation about a major comeback is complete without some mention of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiritofharrogate.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlingsby Gin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a contemporary spirits brand produced in the spa town of Harrogate, which uses rhubarb from E Oldroyd & Sons. The distiller steeps the plant in alcohol for six weeks before it is distilled, creating a sweet gin that is beginning to rival the traditional juniper-based version in the wider county.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESlingsby’s growing dependency on the vegetable reflects an uncanny respect for the rhubarb’s heritage, while influencing other up-and-coming spirit producers with what is becoming a new tradition. In the past few years, the county has seen the debut of around 15 new gin distilleries, and the provenance of Yorkshire rhubarb is crucial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We use more than three tonnes each year,” said Ben Carthy, son of co-owner Mike, while showing me around the city-centre micro-distillery and gin-tasting bar, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiritofharrogate.co.uk\u002Four-story\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Spirit of Harrogate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “We stockpile it in case there’s a bad harvest, and this year we’re forecasting a production of around 500,000 bottles. That’s close to double 2018, so it’s going to be a big year for rhubarb.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur conversation returned to eating, as it so often does in Yorkshire. Carthy reminisced about the dishes his family used to eat while he was growing up: rhubarb crumble, rhubarb pie, straight-from-the-fridge spears dipped in the sugar bowl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut as we chatted, my mind wandered back to the sacred space of that forcing shed in the heart of the Rhubarb Triangle. The sense of improbability it provoked was unforgettable – just like the green and pink colours of the rhubarb itself, captured in all their end-of-day, candle-lit dreaminess.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-04-25T18:03:53Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The English vegetable picked by candlelight","headlineShort":"The weird truth about English rhubarb","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Forced rhubarb – a vegetable deprived of sunlight for extra sweetness – has been eaten in Yorkshire since the 19th Century. Now the culinary treasure is having a renaissance.","summaryShort":"It’s one of the world’s most complex vegetables","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:31:41.130879Z","entity":"article","guid":"31eba3da-6599-4eff-92f3-5c35ecd83fbf","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:47:54.742252Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","_id":"62df7eaf43d9f4575740758a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller"],"bodyIntro":"An alarming 81% of traditional apple orchards have vanished from Britain, but activists are planting British heritage varieties in community plots in all shapes and sizes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETom Adams is a detective. But he doesn't track criminals – his targets are \"lost\" apple varieties hiding unsuspected in orchards around the UK, and his work taps into a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile you'd be lucky to find half a dozen apple varieties in any supermarket (some of those imported), there are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalfruitcollection.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Fruit Collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Brogdale Farm in Kent, with new discoveries being made by apple hunters around the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdams' apple-detecting beat focuses on The Marches, an ancient heartland of British apple growing that takes a bite out of the counties of Shropshire and Herefordshire where England merges into Wales. It was here, in a neglected orchard, that a single tree bearing mysterious bright yellow apples stirred his curiosity. No one knew when it was planted and neither Adams' expert eye nor archival records could quickly identify the variety. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt took deep delving in the archives plus gene testing before the mystery apple was finally identified as a Bringewood Pippin. \"It's a late dessert\u002Fcider apple originally raised around 1800 by the horticulturalist Thomas Andrew Knight – a cross between Golden Pippin and Golden Harvey,\" explained Adams. \"It was also quite possible this was the only remaining tree of its kind left in the country.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis single Shropshire orchard turned out to be a hotspot for apple rediscoveries, with three other \"lost\" varieties joining the Georgian-era Bringewood Pippin. \"It was also home to what could have been the last remaining trees of Gypsy King, Rhymer and Round Winter Nonesuch,\" Adams revealed. \"I took cuttings, and these trees have now been rescued from extinction – they are spread far and wide throughout the country.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg16"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Bardsey Island apple has a similar story of a solitary tree bearing distinctive fruit – this time on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160411-the-tiny-island-of-20000-graves\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe eponymous little island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just off the Llyn Peninsula in North Wales. The tree had stood perhaps for centuries by the ruins of a 13th-Century abbey, and it was curiosity about its apples that persuaded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sonneruplund.dk\u002Feng\u002Fhtml\u002Fbardsey.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebird watcher Andy Clarke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to take some to local fruit expert Ian Sturrock. Sent for DNA analysis, the result came back that this was a previously unknown apple, prompting the media to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F1\u002Fhi\u002Fwales\u002F1009618.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehail the tree as the rarest in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E back in 2000. Thanks again to grafts, people around the UK are now growing this medium-sized sweet and juicy pink eating apple, and are enjoying its distinctive lemon aroma.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0cglfy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApple growing has been part of life on the British Isles back to Roman times, while also underpinning evocative ancient winter traditions such as wassailing – a Twelfth Night custom of visiting orchards to sing to the trees and spirits in the hope of ensuring a good harvest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"An ancient tradition","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-60834796\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E 2022 study by the National Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that an alarming 81% of traditional orchards have vanished from England and Wales since the early 1900s, due to land use changes related to farming and urbanisation. Not only has this limited people's experience of countless heritage apple varieties, but it has also impacted on biodiversity and the wildlife drawn to the mix of woodland, hedgerow and meadow grassland in traditional orchards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut a growing army of apple activists are pushing back, dipping into the pool of British heritage varieties to plant new community orchards in all shapes and sizes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.commonground.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommon Ground\u003C\u002Fa\u003E environment group was a key pioneer of this British apple renaissance, beginning its first campaign to save traditional orchards more than 30 years ago – including, in 1990, designating 21 October as an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.commonground.org.uk\u002Fapple-day\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual Apple Day\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to spread the word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECommon Ground co-founder Sue Clifford spoke to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Flifeandstyle\u002F2017\u002Foct\u002F21\u002Fbritish-apple-boom-forgotten-varieties-apple-day\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Guardian in 2017\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about the surge in orchard planting. \"It is astonishing how people have picked up the idea of planting small orchards,\" she said. \"There is much more planting now, a growing urban and rural movement, and a resurgence of interest in ciders. Community orchards are becoming very important to places, and people are rightly proud of them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENew orchard makers can plant trees based on a host of criteria to create pleasing variety. There's the taste of the fruit, of course – but also how vigorously a tree grows, or even what date in spring it bursts into blossom. A community orchard planted in the Cornish town of Newquay in 2015 features 120 heritage varieties, each with its own appeal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg4p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrightonpermaculture.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrighton Permaculture Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (BPT) oversees a community orchard programme on England's south coast that has planted fruit trees in small village schools across Sussex as well as large secondary city schools in Brighton. Other spots range from a tiny plot at the city's London Road train station to fruit-filled oases on council estates at Craven Vale and Hollingdean. Two hundred trees are thriving on a hillside beside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brighton-racecourse.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EBrighton R\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brighton-racecourse.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eacecourse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while a new orchard will be planted this winter in Bevendean, one of the city's most socially deprived areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe community benefits of such initiatives are priceless. \"People just love orchards,\" said Bryn Thomas from BPT, which has made a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=O86DN4XxKwQ&t=134s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E capturing how new orchards are providing both pleasure and learning for local people of all ages. \"There's something in our DNA in Britain of planting and caring for orchards. It really brings the community together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's something in our DNA in Britain of planting and caring for orchards","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Birmingham, a \"Ring of Blossom\" will be created around Britain's second largest city to provide an apple-y legacy following the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.birmingham2022.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommonwealth Games\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in July. More than 500 trees will be planted this autumn as part of a National Trust plan to create an echo of the 180-plus orchards that once encircled the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe National Trust is also returning apple trees to its historical properties around the UK. \"We are planting new orchards at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fstourhead\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStourhead\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Wiltshire, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnationaltrustcollections.org.uk\u002Fplace\u002Farlington-court\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArlington Court\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Devon, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fkingston-lacy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKingston Lacy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dorset, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fbrockhampton\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrockhampton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Herefordshire, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fattingham-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAttingham Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Shropshire,\" said the Trust's Jeannette Heard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg0f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHeritage apples are piquing the interest of chefs, too. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheethicurean.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ethicurean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bristol is one restaurant finding novel uses for the 60-plus varieties it grows in its own orchard. For example, head chef Mark McCabe uses crab apple verjus (a juice made by pressing some unripe fruits) as a local alternative to imported lemons. \"Crab apples are a great source of acidity and much more appropriate in British cuisine than citrus,\" said McCabe. \"We ferment the juice into a dry and very sharp verjus and use it for balance in our cooking – such as to top a beetroot, buttermilk and blackcurrant dish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne exciting aspect of the British apple renaissance is searching for apple varieties present in horticultural histories but \"lost\" in the landscape. And the efforts of heritage apple seekers do literally bear fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELydia Crimp from Herefordshire's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.artistraw.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArtistraw Cidery and Orchard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shares the tale of the rediscovery of an apple with the characterful name Knotted Kernel. \"These majestic trees – with fruit the colour of rubies, and the shape and size of cherries – were thought to be lost, until in the 1980s it was discovered growing in New Zealand! But then we found 60-year-old trees that had been growing here in Herefordshire all along. Now it's an apple we use a lot in our cider.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApple detectives in Sussex, meanwhile, are continuing to scour the land for a variety known as the Petworth Non Pareil, which still bears the sad label of \"extinct\". Horticultural archives suggest that this firm and crisp medium-sized green apple with a thin brushing of russet (reddish brown) was probably bred by Lord Egremont and his head gardener Mr Slade at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fpetworth-house-and-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPetworth House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E early in the 19th Century, before disappearing from view. If a Petworth Non Pareil tree does still exist, it will most likely be hiding away in an old garden or overlooked plot of land just waiting to be spotted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBritain's apple detectives draw on a host of criteria to identify their quarry. Colour descriptions take in yellow, red, green or russet, with additional nods to flecks and streaks. Shape can be defined as flattish, rounded, conical, oblong, oval, angular or ribbed. First flowering times between early May and mid-June are another identifier, as is the ripening period (generally between August and October). Then there's the detail of how well each variety takes to storage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglgfl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDescriptions of flavour add further complexity, with famed pomologist Joan Morgan listing 12 different flavours in her reference work \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F1021061\u002Fthe-new-book-of-apples\u002F9780091883980.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe New Book of Apples\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in 2002. What an apple is best used for – eating, cooking, cider – is another distinguishing factor, as is place of origin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo complicate matters further, however, local variations in soil or light conditions can cause trees of a particular variety to produce fruit that looks different to its \"typical\" form. This is where genetic testing against Brogdale's DNA database can help identify a puzzling fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd then there's the wonderful randomness introduced by blossom pollination. Insects flying around an orchard can bring pollen from different sources to \"fertilise\" different flowers on a tree, which introduces remarkable genetic variance into each apple that springs forth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is one of my favourite apple facts – that every single apple pip will produce an entirely new type of apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe result of this natural lottery is that apples grown from a pip will not grow into the exact same tree that the apple containing the pip came from. Instead, they will produce a unique new cross, albeit one that shares characteristics of their parent tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is one of my favourite apple facts – that every single apple pip will produce an entirely new type of apple,\" said Crimp. \"It means there are boundless possibilities for new discoveries in apple varieties.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglgs9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowers can also get clever and create single trees that feature grafts from multiple varieties. Known as \"family trees\", they allow a single tree to produce several varieties of apple – so much so that one Sussex grower has created a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fscience-environment-24348394\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etree with 250 different types of apple growing on it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe task of naming new varieties is one pleasing side of the British apple renaissance. Some are named after a specific person, like the apple named after contemporary quilter Nancy Crow, who has used apple tree motifs in her work. Some are named after a place, like Halfpenny Green in Staffordshire. Others are named for their appearance, such as the rare old Welsh apple, Pig's Snout. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd the wondrous diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name. \"There are at least 1,000 apple cultivars in collections or orchards across the UK that are not held in the National Fruit Collection (NFC) at Brogdale,\" said Steve Oram, orchard diversity officer for People's Trust for Endangered Species. \"And many varieties exist in just one or two known locations. Examples are Spring Grove Codlin, Barcelona Pearmain and Gypsy King in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marcherapple.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarcher Apple Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A salt-tolerant variety called Gull was only available from one nursery, which recently closed its doors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOram is keen to point out that the lack of so many kinds of apple tree in the National Fruit Collection isn't necessarily a flaw. \"The NFC's raison d'être is to hold a fruit gene pool that could be used for breeding new commercially viable cultivars, so the days of unquestioning collection of any and all varieties are long gone,\" he said. \"Many cultivars have modest culinary value. But they are culturally meaningful to a single locale or group of people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that surely is part of the essence of any distinctive heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Food\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Es\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFaceboo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Er\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Em\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newslette\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Er\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-06T20:33:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK's heritage apple renaissance","headlineShort":"Britain's vanishing rare fruit","image":["p0cglg85"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.3000115","longitude":"0.8579122","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cglg85"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An alarming 81% of traditional apple orchards have vanished from England and Wales, but activists are planting British heritage varieties in community plots in all shapes and sizes.","summaryShort":"An alarming 81% of Britain's traditional apple orchards have disappeared","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-05T20:48:10.329019Z","entity":"article","guid":"57d1d718-0c8d-41b9-9e7a-65d74a84c284","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-22T02:11:16.913954Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078304},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","_id":"62df802343d9f45721362fb6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYou wouldn't think of the overtrodden Dominican Republic as a cutting-edge archaeology destination. Yet hidden beneath the beach cabanas are likely clues to a pre-Columbian mystery that's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries: who actually discovered the Caribbean?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Columbus arrived on Hispaniola in the 15th Century, he encountered the Taíno, an Arawakan-speaking people who came from the Orinoco Delta of present-day Venezuela, emigrating as early as 400 BCE. While it is often assumed that the Taíno were the \"original\" inhabitants of the Caribbean, particularly the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FGreater-Antilles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreater Antilles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, other peoples had already been living there for several thousand years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola are known as the \"Archaic\" peoples, characterised by their usage of stone tools (and the \"Ceramic Age\" Taíno by their creation of ceramics). The term generalises a diverse group of prehistoric peoples whose languages and names for themselves are unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uniroma1.it\u002Fen\u002Fnotizia\u002Frare-pre-columbian-archaic-settlement-discovered-dominican-republic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea recent discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by a team of Italian and Dominican archaeologists on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula, could change our understanding of who they were and where they came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"El Pozito\" (Spanish for \"little well\") is a rare settlement belonging to these little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola. It's also the Dominican Republic's biggest Archaic discovery in half a century. To the untrained eye, the site – a grassy mound surrounded by lush vegetation 2km inland from capes Cabrón and Samaná – might not seem like anything more than an idyllic spot for a picnic. But after surveying the area and finding a natural spring nearby, seasoned archaeologist Alfredo Coppa knew to dig deeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"El Pozito archaeological site in Dominican Republic","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor 2.5 weeks in September 2021, Coppa's team from Sapienza University of Rome, with investigators from Santo Domingo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmuseo.d.dominicano\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo del Hombre Dominicano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, combed a 12mx12m area of virgin turf untouched by agriculture. Digging just 20cm below the surface, gently prodding the moist, coffee-coloured earth for signs of past civilisations, they found a trove of polished stone hammers, pestles and axes, conches and other tools used by the Archaic people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most significant finds are the \u003Cem\u003Emariposoid \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor butterfly axes, which were likely used for felling trees to make canoes and oars; and a small ceremonial well (35cm in diameter) with 12 stone pestles buried inside, barely used save some plant residue, leading the team to believe these settlers were also ritualistic – a ground-breaking revelation considering how little is known about their way of life. Few Archaic settlements have been uncovered around the Caribbean to date and this is among the most promising.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile carbon dating has yet to be done on El Pozito, Coppa believes it to be around 2,000 years old (Late Archaic Age), based on the objects he's found so far, but he's hoping the settlement is much older than that. Particularly because what he's really looking to find is a necropolis – with burials spanning centuries – in order to glean genetic insights. And there's a good chance he will, because no site where humans lived has not been associated with a necropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this,\" said Coppa, who has overseen excavations in other places like Oman, Eritrea, Pakistan and Libya – and, of course, across the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playa Onda Samana on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first and last major Archaic discovery here happened in the 1970s in the southern part of the island. Over the years, Coppa found butterfly axes scattered around the north, but no site, which led him to believe the Archaic peoples lived down south, likely coming from Cuba, the biggest island in the Greater Antilles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil he found El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is tucked away at the end of the Samaná Peninsula, a 30-mile verdant strip of land in the country's north-east that juts into the Atlantic Ocean. An eco-tourism paradise, the land is rainforested and dramatic, formed by the Sierra de Samaná, an extension of the Cordillera Septentrional – the biggest mountain range in the Caribbean – that runs along the northern coast, providing natural shelters along several remote beaches. Coppa theorises that these Archaic people may have reached Samaná from Puerto Rico, the closest nearby island about 200 nautical miles to the east, though he says more research is needed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US' lost, ancient megacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWas this the wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the bigger questions are: Which continent did they come from? To whom are they related? How did they interact and trade with others? And what happened to them?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ynharari.com\u002Fbook\u002Fsapiens-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESapiens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E author Yuval Noah Harari, the first seafaring society may have developed on the Indonesia archipelago 45,000 years ago. It would take another 39,000 years or so for homo sapiens to discover the Caribbean – the last region of the Americas to be settled by humans, and the first to be colonised by Europeans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile 6,000 years ago is relatively recent for archaeologists, evidence is scarce because almost nothing organic survives the tropics. The humid climate, volcanic soil and rising sea levels – not to mention agriculture, development, looting and indifference – breaks down and swallows up bones, settlements and objects, posing a challenge to Caribbean archaeology. But that's precisely what makes the field – and this discovery – exciting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone pestles at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists,\" said Dr Reniel Rodríguez-Ramos, professor of archaeology at University of Puerto Rico in Utuado. Rodríguez-Ramos has written about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F31043611_From_the_Guanahatabey_to_the_Archaic_of_Puerto_Rico_The_Nonevident_Evidence\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow European travelogues at the time of Columbus misguided archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who long considered them as nomadic \"fisher-hunter-gatherers\" who lived in caves by the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, texts by Spanish and Italian travellers, such as Bartolomé de las Casas, a missionary from Seville who became a Dominican friar, were the only \"evidence\" archaeologists had about these non-Taíno peoples, often described in unsophisticated terms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut recent discoveries across the Caribbean – from the cultic implications of the 12 pestles found at El Pozito, to finding shelters and weights likely used to hold down fish nets in Puerto Rico – show that these first settlers were more skilled than archaeologists historically thought. They practiced agriculture and basket weaving, and were more sedentary than survivalist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the Caribbean archipelago is not visible from land (apart from the island of Trinidad, which can be seen from Venezuela), nor was it ever part of any continent. This means these first settlers took a chance when they ventured into the Caribbean Sea, which was unusual to do back then, say archaeologists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These people had to be explorers,\" said Rodríguez-Ramos in answer to why they would be so daring. \"There was no big population pressure back then. No need to jump into a canoe and risk their lives to come here. That's what navigators do. These are sea people. They're just like climbers. They do things because it's part of their idiosyncrasies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"mariposoid or butterfly axes at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe theorises they came from across the Americas, and that the islands were a centre for trade and cultural exchange; a maritime Silk Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, while it was long assumed that the Archaic people were either ancestors to or mixed with the Taíno, DNA analysis now tells us that the first settlers were genetically distinct, despite evidence that the two groups coexisted for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis surprised experts. \"When two groups meet you usually find mixture. It's almost entirely absent from the Caribbean and we are wondering why that is,\" said Dr Kathrin Nägele, a Caribbean-specialised archaeogeneticist from the Max Planck Institute, who pioneered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.science.org\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1126\u002Fscience.aba8697\"\u003Ea study on ancient Caribbean genomics\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in Science in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis absence, however, could be for lack of samples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe study was the first time ancient Caribbean human genomes were successfully sequenced, thanks to a breakthrough in DNA retrieval. (This led to subsequent studies by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41586-020-03053-2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHarvard University\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and other, smaller labs.) While hundreds of Taíno skeletons have been analysed so far, only 55 Archaic Age genomes have been sequenced: 52 from Cuba and three from the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhich is why Coppa is hoping to find a necropolis at El Pozito, where he may be able to source the inch-long bone they're searching for – the skull's petrous bone, which protects the inner ear – that is the best source of preserved DNA. It may explain who the Archaic peoples were related to and what happened to them; if they mixed with Ceramic Age groups, Europeans, died out or disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playta Fronton on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every new genome we study has the potential to change what we thought we knew,\" said Dr Kendra Sirak, research fellow at Harvard Medical School, who works with Coppa on sequencing ancient genomes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is purposely not geotagged (so you can’t find it in Google Maps) in order to protect it from looters who sell archaeological objects to tourists on the black market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you happen to find anything on your travels that could be of interest to archaeologists, be sure to leave it where you found it and notify authorities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Travel responsibly","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers interested in digging deeper, the place to start is the Museo del Hombre Dominicano in Santo Domingo, when it reopens. The impressive four-storey brutalist anthropological museum has been undergoing renovations since 2017, though Glenis Tavarez, a forensic archaeologist who has been with the museum for 38 years, hopes it will reopen for its 50th anniversary in 2023. When it does, it will feature artefacts from El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor now, it's best to head to Samaná. While the site is not yet open to the public (the dig is due to continue in July and interested travellers are welcome to inquire about joining), nearby on Cape Samaná, about a two-hour trek from the quiet fishing village of Las Galeras through jungle, is a towering 90m-high limestone cliff that runs 3.5km along a beach called Playa Frontón. The cocooned white-sand beach, along with its neighbour Playa Madama, is accessible only by foot, boat or horse. Coppa suggests these beaches as good places for interested travellers to explore, as both are filled with accessible pre-Columbian sites, including caves and petroglyphs, which he surveyed before finding El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile seeking shade under the sea-worn rockface or inside a cave, you might watch snorkelers or kayakers paddling the glistening turquoise waters – and be reminded of the intrepid people who came here first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-23T03:36:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","headlineShort":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.208070","longitude":"-69.251297","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","summaryShort":"It's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-22T21:21:38.07342Z","entity":"article","guid":"c330b086-41cf-4ce9-82e8-d5cb1ac60e8d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:32:22.363286Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","_id":"62df818f43d9f42c861a8a87","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the sun-scorched streets of Pointe-a Pitre, Guadeloupe, buzzy energy bubbled up from the narrow lanes and the scent of spices and frying dough mingled with the sea breeze. The first time I arrived on the archipelago, I was struck by the chaotic mix of old world and new: crayon-coloured 18th-Century buildings next to storefront mannequins dressed in patterned leggings and tanks; a graffiti artist spray painting a crumbling 19th-Century warehouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll my senses were activated as l sipped fresh sugarcane juice and strolled around the waterfront. I understood immediately why Guadeloupe is known for \u003Cem\u003Ela belle la vie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or the beautiful life. The zest for living is woven into every aspect of the islands' lifestyle, from the joyful rhythms of local \u003Cem\u003Ezouk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E music to the \u003Cspan\u003Erecord numbers for \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003EC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003Ehampagne drinking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but it's especially evident in the devoted preparation of food. I sampled complex dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eferoces \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ed'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eavocat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea spicy avocado salad with cassava and codfish, as well as the creole stew of breadfruit, plantains and tripe called \u003Cem\u003Ebe'bele. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut nothing seemed to be as ubiquitous and beloved as the source of that fried dough aroma, the almighty \u003Cem\u003Ebokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ultimate Guadeloupan street food, bokit is a hefty sandwich fashioned from fried dough and a creative range of ingredients that's sold from stands, trucks and cafes that dot the island. I entered a tiny eatery with a faded sign and a few tables and chairs. A mind-numbing list of ingredient choices – including lamb, lobster, conch, curried chicken, pepper sauce, cheeses, curry sauce and ketchup – lined a wall over a grill where the owner was frying two long pieces of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI ordered saltfish with sweet peppers and Creole sauce (made of scotch bonnet peppers, onions, parsley, garlic and lime) and watched him stuff the ingredients between the fried bread and wrap it in foil. I took a bite and the flavours danced around my mouth, forming a happy mix. The satisfying blend of fat and freshness along with the array of fillings made it the perfect symbol of Guadeloupe's multicultural influences. The bokit is so much more than a sandwich; it's a portable feast and cultural symbol.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit taco on left and bokit skewers on right","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn overseas department of France located in the Eastern Caribbean between Antigua and Dominica, Guadeloupe is composed of five islands, with Grande Terre and Bass Terre the largest. After the abolition of slavery in 1848, indentured workers from South India were brought to the archipelago for cheap labour, creating a vibrant culture that combines African, French, indigenous and Indian influences. The simple preparation and varied fixings of bokits perfectly reflect this cultural mix, resulting in a bountiful and flavourful dish paired with the creativity of French cooking techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The\u003Cem\u003E bokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a festive sandwich. It is a dish that unites,\" said Naike' Claudeon, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokit-center.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokit Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stylish restaurant that serves healthy, gourmet versions of bokit in Pointe-a-Pitre\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"When we think of a bokit\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E we often associate it with a family outing after visits to the cemetery or at the carnival. We also have to talk about the \u003Cem\u003Edankit \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(simple fried bread) from which the bokit is inspired.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrinidad's addictive spicy street snack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Jamaican fruit that could kill you\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"It is a dish that has evolved a lot throughout its history. It's a dish that is not set in stone. Everyone can create their own. You may find a way to make it in Basse-Terre that you won't find in Grande-Terre. The bokit is very versatile.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe history of the bokit stretches back to the 19th Century, around the time of the abolition of slavery in Guadeloupe. Simple fried dough is typically called johnnycakes throughout most of the Caribbean, where the indigenous practice of cooking corn cakes on hot stones was adopted by enslaved Africans. The fried dough is called dankit in Guadeloupe, and stuffing it with whatever meat, cheese, or vegetables were on hand developed into a hearty meal for poor workers who needed a cheap and filling dish to sustain them during the long work day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pile of bokit skewers covered in melted chocolate and powdered sugar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our very resourceful enslaved ancestors created the bokit because at that time they did not have an oven or the necessary means, but they had to eat and they had water, flour and oil,\" said Claudeon. \"Hence the idea of frying the dough instead of baking it. Most Caribbean islands have their version of bokit with a different name.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe evolution of the bokit mirrors the story of Guadeloupe. As the island developed more industries besides agriculture and the towns grew bigger with commerce, the bokit acquired more sophistication and variations. \"Originally the bokit was made without yeast and was called dankit. [But] over the years the recipe evolved and yeast was added to it [inspired by the prevalence of French bread] and it then became the bokit that we know today,\" explained Colette Chicot, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokaraibes-restaurant.business.site\u002F?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokaraibes,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a bokit cafe in Basse Terre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India,\" she added. \"The bokit is truly a sandwich that has evolved so much and is still evolving. For example, I'm known for making bokits with breadfruit flour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, I have savoured many exciting bokit variations. One option showcased the keen skills of French technique, with stewed pork topped with julienned cabbage and carrots. Sprinkled with local sugar cane syrup, the result was a sweet and savoury dish that reflected the French appreciation of a mix of flavours and textures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother time, sitting in the shade of a lush sea grape tree on the golden sands in Sainte Anne, a popular beachfront town in Grande Terre, I enjoyed a an Indian-inspired bokit bursting with chickpeas, cabbage and potatoes and dressed with turmeric and tamarind sauce. As I licked the sauce from my fingers, I leaned against the trunk and watched an eager queue of patrons line up at the small truck for bokits stuffed with everything from aubergine to mutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit on yellow tray with cucumber and carrot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The bokit was first marketed as a food truck sandwich,\" said Claudeon. \"Mothers would sell bokits in food trucks to make money to feed their children. At the time, we had two types of bokit: the bokit stuffed before frying; and the bokit stuffed after frying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreserving the textures and flavours of the stuffed ingredients has made stuffing after frying the most popular method – but everything else remains open for creative interpretation. At the Bokit Center, the dough can be made with trendy ingredients like turmeric or charcoal; while a taco-like version called \u003Cem\u003Ebokitos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is popular, as are skewers made from bokit dough called \"bokit sticks\" featuring meat and vegetables or chocolate and powdered sugar for dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the curry-spiced stew, \u003Cem\u003Eporc-colombo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the national dish of Guadeloupe, bokits have captured the hearts of the Caribbean island for their versatility and easy accessibility. \"Friday is bokit day in Guadeloupe, \" said Chicot. \"It's the weekend, everybody is looking for comfort food and the bokit is practical; it's food on the go.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"The bokit is ours. It truly represents our history, our soul, our genes. To make bokits is to revive one of the most beautiful symbols of the island. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-12T19:31:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bokit: The fried food that defines an island","headlineShort":"The fried food that defines an island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"16.2650","longitude":"61.5510","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","summaryShort":"No food is as ubiquitous and beloved as the almighty bokit","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-11T19:33:19.084942Z","entity":"article","guid":"b81f0ee0-fab6-486c-9820-6524482dc993","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:04.780591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","_id":"62df826b43d9f4586e777896","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An important part of Curacao's dushi (sweet) culture, Mama and Chichi sculptures can be found across the island and have come to represent the beauty of the female form.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's impossible to travel around the Dutch Caribbean island of Curaçao without falling in love with the affectionate-looking, plus-sized \u003Cem\u003EMama\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mother) and \u003Cem\u003EChichi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (big sister) sculptures found in public squares, outside hotels and in unexpected locations around the island. Their poses – with hands outstretched in a welcoming embrace or clasped together in quiet contemplation – radiate maternalistic warmth. Combined with their lofty 2m scale, Curacaoans and travellers alike can't resist rushing in to photograph a hug with a Mama or Chichi or stopping by for a quick chat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe prevalence of these voluptuous sculptures across the island is indicative of Curaçao's flourishing emergent culture and art scene. Curaçao was settled by the Arawak people from South America around 6,000 years ago, but in 1515 the entire population was deported to the nearby island of Hispaniola and enslaved in their copper mines by the Spanish. Today, still coming to terms with its past, the ever-growing population of Curaçao is a fusion of African, European and Latin American cultures from more than 50 countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, it was relatively recent migrants to Curaçao who, inspired by the beauty and strength of the women they saw around them, first decided to immortalise the island's Mamas and Chichis in sculptures. But few people know the stories behind these vibrant figures or how they became emblems of contemporary Curacao's \u003Cem\u003Edushi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sweet) culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy first encounter with a Mama was under a canopy of trees on a sun-soaked hillside near the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.avantiadamberg.com\u002Fcommissioned-work\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EColourful Steps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20120829-seven-unmissable-caribbean-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWillemstad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's Otrobanda district. Created by sculptor \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrouwn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHortence Brouwn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this hilltop Mama is the highest and one of the largest Mamas on the island. At 2m in height and almost the same in width, she perches serenely on a small clifftop above a resplendent tangle of magenta, coral and white bougainvillea bushes. Her scarlet dress is adorned with sunflowers that perfectly match her saffron headwrap. Pressing her hands together, she gazes out across Sint Anna Bay, as if patiently waiting for the return of a loved one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mama sculpture by Hortence Brouwn","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrouwn, 84, has been sculpting since she was 17. Originally from Suriname, she migrated to Curaçao 40 years ago. The sculptor specialises in the human form and aims to express movement and feelings through the body language of her subjects. The inspiration for Brouwn's first Mama came 35 years ago, after observing how Curacaoan mothers across the island would sit in one spot enjoying the day for long periods while their children were at school. Today, Brouwn's sculptures can be found around the world, including Holland and Bonaire, but her beloved Curaçao has more Mamas than any other location.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island\"\u003EThe fried food that defines an island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I started by making a small sculpture of a lady sitting on a bench,\" Brouwn explained. \"The former owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.avilabeachhotel.com\u002Fusa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAvila Beach Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E came to me for a coffee one day and saw it. He said, 'It's such a beautiful sculpture, can you make me a very big one?'. I asked him how big, and he replied, 'Lifesize!'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd so, Brouwn cast her first large bronze Mama sculpture, which was given pride of place on a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alamy.com\u002Fcaribbean-curacao-big-momma-statue-sculpture-avila-beach-hotel-blues-image3346067.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebench\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outside the hotel. Swiftly afterwards came a commission from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FKuraHulanda\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKura Hulanda Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for another Mama\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Brouwn's second bronze Mama\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E while also extremely lifelike, preserves a snapshot of Curacaoan life from the 1980s. \"Women in Curaçao used to walk around in the streets with curl pins in their hair and when they went out for the evening, they'd take them out, but you don't see it anymore,\" she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer Mamas of all sizes were soon in high demand, although the largest ones appear to evoke the strongest emotional reactions from observers and buyers. Perhaps in part it's due to the previous lack of representation of the huge diversity of shapes and sizes of members of the Curaçaoan population, which is made up of 75.4% black or mixed race Curaçaoans, 6% Dutch, 3.6% Dominican and 3% Colombian, with the remainder being from various other Caribbean islands, Venezuela and Suriname. To many Curaçaoan women, statues such as Brouwn's have become emblems of body positivity, serving as a reminder that women in this melting pot come in all shapes and colours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mama statue on clifftop in Otrobanda","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany Curaçaoans, as well as visitors, see themselves or family members in the sculptures. \"One day I was looking out of my kitchen window, and I couldn't believe it when I saw a man come and sit down and talk to one of my Mamas,\" said Brouwn. \"Since then, I've noticed many people like to come sit beside them, and even talk with the sculptures sometimes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpundawillemstad.com\u002Fexperience\u002Fart-alley\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHead to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpundawillemstad.com\u002Fexperience\u002Fart-alley\u002F\"\u003EArt Alley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Punda or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Ffactory\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESerena's Art Factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E workshop on the east side of the island to see local women hand-painting smaller Chichis; you can also buy them here as authentic souvenirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can make an appointment to visit Brouwn's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrouwn.com\u002F?page_id=25\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to see her work, which also includes other types of figures, and can buy or commission a piece.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlternatively, look out for both Chichis and Mamas outside major hotels, the historic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alamy.com\u002Fwillemstad-curacao-netherlands-december-5-2019-sculpture-at-rif-fort-at-willemstad-curacao-caribbean-image448408865.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERif Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and in unexpected locations around the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Where to find Chichis and Mamas","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbloemhof.cw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMany Curaçaoans have the figurines in their homes, too. Their affection and respect for the women of the island is part of the national character, which values and celebrates all things dushi. The dushi way encompasses not only behaviour; it's also a word frequently used as a term of endearment for anyone from family members to strangers, a way of describing a delicious meal, or indeed anything deemed to be nice, good or enjoyable. Seeing the sweetness in everything may be one way this diverse new nation has attempted to heal from its past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Brouwn was the first artist in Curaçao to popularise these curvy depictions of women – with many other artists following suit – it was sculptor Serena Israel who took making plus-sized figures into a community-based enterprise for local women. This time, the inspiration was another important member of Curacaoan families: the Chichi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Brouwn, Israel was drawn to Curaçao and it has now been her home since 2001. As a new migrant, finding herself strapped for cash, unmarried and pregnant, the German native pivoted from working as a cleaner and waitress to teaching sculpting skills at the well-known \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbloemhof.cw\u002F\"\u003ELandhuis Bloemhof\u003C\u002Fa\u003E gallery. As she discovered more over the years from Curaçaoan friends about the island's culture and complex history, she was inspired by the backstory of Curaçao's Chichis – the Papiamentu word for the eldest sister in a family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chichis are so much more than just a big sister; they capture the embraces, the pride and the heritage of many Curaçaoan women,\" Israel explained. \"During WWI, the Chichis came to the forefront because the mothers were working while many of the men were away fighting. They had to take control of the family, which often meant they had no time for a school education. So Chichis became pillars of the Curaçaoan families – they held them together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was when people first began calling them \"Chichi\", as a sign of respect. When the first generation of Chichis grew up, the word became used as a more general term to describe local women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chichis are so much more than just a big sister; they capture the embraces, the pride and the heritage of many Curaçaoan women","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIsrael began making small Chichis from papier mache for tourists 14 years ago. Demand snowballed, leading to the creation of an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Ffactory\u002F\"\u003EArt Factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can watch her in action, along with various shops and outlets. She has been commissioned to create large Chichisto celebrate their importance in Curaçaoan culture\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E including a colourful figure outside the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fhotels\u002Fcurbr-renaissance-wind-creek-curacao-resort\u002Foverview\u002F\"\u003ERenaissance Wind Creek Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, wearing a swimsuit painted with tropical flower designs. Guests are frequently seen perched on her lap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Woman painting \"XXXL Chichi\" in Curaçao","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My Chichis are very joyful and capture the root of the truth,\" Israel said. \"With regards to body positivity, I think they're big \u003Cem\u003Eand\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beautiful. It doesn't mean they're not sporty or not eating healthily. They have their own beauty. To me, they are about national pride, but also about healing. Curaçao is still healing from its past. It has a heavy history. All these thoughts were going through my mind when I came up with an idea that I thought might work; a sculpture that would celebrate voluptuousness, and Curacaoan women and their heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter transforming from struggling migrant to successful artist in her new home country, Israel says she decided to pay it forward by teaching jobless women in her neighbourhood how to craft and paint their own Chichis\u003Cem\u003E – \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea 12-step process involving 10 pairs of hands. Operating as a kind of artists' cooperative, the opportunity gives them the ability to earn their own money, as well as to work from home and choose their own hours to fit around family commitments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnsurprisingly, the holiday island did not escape unscathed from the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic. Israel's cooperative relied upon tourists for 80% of its income. But she has just launched a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichikunst.com\u002Fproject-info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecrowdfunding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E idea to create a new extra-large \"XXXL Chichi\" that draws attention to Curaçao's charms through illustrations of its most beautiful attractions – including the popular cliff jumping spot at Playa Forti – as well as native flora and fauna such as dolphins, hummingbirds and cayenne flowers. People can watch Israel and the other artists doing live painting sessions on the sculpture every Wednesday at different \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichikunst.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2022\u002F01\u002FXXXL-map-Sambil.png\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or view the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCztyXp28FHo0MEygmtsc5eQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elivestream\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We will move the XXXL Chichi around the island for a year because we want to show the world how beautiful our island is,\" Israel said, explaining that the new Chichi will be donated to the city of Willemstad for three years after its one-year tour. \"In the meantime, the crowdfunding helps get our painters back to work and allows us to hire new painters, so we can provide an extra income to the local community that really needs it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Angelique Martina painting a Chichi in front of tropical painted wall","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Fproject\u002F20-angelique-martina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAngelique Martina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Curaçaoan artist who has been making Chichis with Israel for several years, is also a firm believer in the importance of the figures as a symbol of female strength. \"For me, the Chichi sculptures are all the members of the family who are strong women. We are smart, we can work hard, we take care of our children, we take responsibility – we're great!\" Martina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We come in all shapes and sizes, and with all the colours and happiness in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Lately, there is a lot of talk about body positivity. The Chichis help with this because they prove the shape of the body has nothing to do with the soul – how you feel, how happy you are, how important you are, and how hard you are working. For me, the sculptures show that women are truly amazing. We come in all shapes and sizes, and with all the colours and happiness in the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-02T10:15:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A Caribbean take on body positivity","headlineShort":"The island breaking beauty standards","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"12.1696","longitude":"-68.9900","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An important part of Curacao's dushi (sweet) culture, Mama and Chichi sculptures can be found across the island and have come to represent the beauty of the female form.","summaryShort":"Few people know the story behind these vibrant and voluptuous figures","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-01T21:16:06.868403Z","entity":"article","guid":"268f4856-647c-411c-8aad-d0504a4086f7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:12.561337Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","_id":"62df7fc143d9f457574076b2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi"],"bodyIntro":"While most of Tobago's food specialties – such as shark and bake, doubles and callaloo – originated in Trinidad, crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe birdsong was the loudest that I'd ever heard, backed by the rolling crash of the ocean. Hummingbirds whirred. Trees were weighed down with ripe mangoes, tangled creepers and leaves the size of frisbees. I was searching for crabs with local chef Sherwin Clark in the stretch of Tobago's emerald coastal forest that backs Englishman's Bay, whose apricot sands are patterned not by footprints but by the swish of iguana tails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECatching the crabs was the first step in making crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals are rightly proud of this salty, spicy, coconut-milk-infused curry that's made with sweet local manicou crabs and served with cornmeal-and-flour dumplings. That's partly because Tobago, the smaller, north-easterly island of the Republic of Trinidad & Tobago, is often overshadowed by its larger sibling. Most local food specialties, such as shark and bake, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edoubles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and callaloo, originate in Trinidad and are eaten across both islands, but crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Trinis come over here to eat it. It's a Tobago thing,\" Clark told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sxr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe other reason is that the dish is intimately connected with the Tobagonian landscape. Tobago is a land of plenty, with astonishing biodiversity including more than 260 species of birds. It's also home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F5646\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's oldest protected rainforest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is where these unique freshwater land crabs live, scuttling along the forest floor and in mountain streams rather than the marine environment usually associated with crabs. While sea crabs are also abundant in Tobago, the sweeter land crab meat is preferred for the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Crab and dumpling is the epitome of Tobago's food landscape. It is an 'ah we' dish, meaning that it comes from us, it is part of us,\" said Renee J Robley, who blogs on Caribbean cuisine at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thisbagogirl.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThisbagogirl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowadays associated with beach life and good times, crab and dumpling has roots in a shameful history. Like other British West Indian colonies, 18th-Century Tobago was exploited by the British as a base for sugar plantations, maintained through the labour of enslaved Africans and, later, indentured Indians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELizzie Collingham, culinary historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-hungry-empire-9780099586951\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hungry Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, describes the conditions that African slaves endured here as \"brutal\", adding that they were given cornmeal and substandard saltfish to eat, and thus looked for other means of nutrition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's likely the African slaves were familiar with catching crabs, as they would have probably caught them in the mangrove swamps of West Africa,\" she said. The enslaved African also introduced dumplings to the Caribbean, called \"journey cake\" or \"Johnny cake\", which they could transport easily and cook on hot stones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8t9p"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFollowing the abolition of slavery in the 19th Century, the British were faced with a problem: where to find workers for their plantations. This coincided with the Industrial Revolution, which caused cheap, machine-made English cotton to flood the Indian market and put thousands of Indian textile workers out of work. The British seized the opportunity, and over the next few decades transported more than 140,000 Indians to Trinidad & Tobago as indentured labourers. Workers signed contracts – that they were often unable to read – for five years servitude on minimal pay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The labourers wouldn't have been able to bring anything with them,\" Collingham said. \"But the British would have been aware that they would have to provide spices for the Indian labourers. The British imported their own curry powder and gave it as a ration.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver time, these Indian and African traditions and flavours merged to form the beloved dish, which is now sold from clapboard beach kiosks across the island, painted in lime-green, papaya-orange and mango-yellow, the colours of the Caribbean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a fusion of the best of us, of our African and our Indian heritage, so we have the spices from India and the coconut milk, fused together with the local seafood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong these, on Store Bay Beach close to Pigeon Point, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmisstrimsfoods\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMiss Trim's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Tobago's best-known crab and dumpling stand. Meisha Trim is the second-generation Miss Trim to run the place; her mother started selling her homecooked food on a street stall, graduating to the beach hut around 30 years ago. When I visited, Trim proudly told me how the Tobagonian mix of cultures created the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a fusion of the best of us, of our African and our Indian heritage, so we have the spices from India and the coconut milk, fused together with the local seafood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sqk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's the food of the beach,\" she added. \"If you're going to a beach lime [event], or after harvest at the church, if you want to celebrate anything that's essentially Tobagonian, you will eat crab and dumpling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was eager to try it myself, and luckily Clark and I caught six crabs using his homemade wooden boxes with trapdoors. In the forest, he'd pointed out some small hollows in the sandy floor: these were the crab burrows, close to a stream. As he'd set the traps, squeezing mangoes plucked from a nearby tree around the burrows to lure them, he told me that early evening is the best time to snare land crabs, when he could sometimes catch tens at a time. When we returned later that evening, we found six manicou crabs in the traps, which he showed me how to hold safely, avoiding their fronts, telling me that \"their bites are like knives\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo cook them, we headed to Clark's yellow-slatted restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Ftrinidad-tobago\u002Fcastara\u002Frestaurants\u002Fmarguerite-s\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-eat\u002F1398424\u002F1317167\"\u003EMarguerite's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located just behind the beach in Castara, a remote Tobagonian village that prides itself on its authentic Caribbean cuisine. Marguerite's is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago. Sherwin comes from a long line of cooks: his parents run one of the village's open-air ovens and two of his brothers have restaurants, too. His grandmother taught him the recipe, he told me, and he has been catching the crabs since he was a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his yellow-painted kitchen, with saucepans hanging on the walls and lace curtains at the windows, Clark showed me the dough he'd prepared for the dumplings, a mix of cornmeal, wheat flour and water. He marinated the crabs in ginger and garlic, and began the sauce by pouring a ladle of vegetable oil to heat with a clove of garlic, then added curry powder mixed with a little water, which sizzled in the oil, sending up a fragrance of mingling spices. Once the sauce was bubbling, Clark added the crabs and a squirt of ketchup, followed by a litre of coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sf2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the curry simmered, the flavours turning richer as they merged with the sweet-scented coconut, Sherwin rolled out the dumplings into half-moon shapes. He cooked them in boiling water for around 10 minutes while the curry sauce bubbled, reducing, alongside. He added a little fresh red chilli pepper to the sauce, \"but only for taste, not for spice\". In just half an hour, the dish was ready to eat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I prefer to eat crab and dumpling at home, so I can relax into the mess","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe sat at a table with a view onto the trickle of the river that runs through Castara out to the hot-blue Caribbean Sea, watching Rasta fishermen hauling in their nets. Clark watched with amusement as I started trying to eat the dish with a knife and fork. These are crabs that are all leg with not much body, and it soon became clear that the only way to eat it was to dig in with both hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I prefer to eat crab and dumpling at home, so I can relax into the mess,\" he told me, laughing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was worth the effort to eke out slivers of the delicacy, though: richly flavoursome and perfectly spiced, the sauce was elevated by the sweet crab morsels and soaked up by the dumplings. Trim was right when she'd told me, \"It's an assault on all your senses. You smell it first, the smell is very distinct, the gravy is thick and rich because of the coconut. The spices come at you very fast.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Trim, sometimes people just order the crab gravy if they don't want the mess of cracking open the crab. However, getting the flavour from the crab legs is like unlocking the essence of Tobago. It's the beach, sunshine, the time to crack the crab. It's a fusion of ingredients from afar, a tangled feast born out of necessity, and a rich, intermingled culture that's as captivating as the sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8s1n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-04T21:55:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The taste of Tobago in just one dish","headlineShort":"The crab dish with a shameful history","image":["p0cj8skv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"10.6918","longitude":"-61.2225","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj8skv"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While most of Tobago's food specialties – such as shark and bake, doubles and callaloo – originated in Trinidad, crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.","summaryShort":"Just don't try to eat it with a knife and fork","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-03T22:00:44.807611Z","entity":"article","guid":"123b0078-7a5f-460d-9c99-b556917044ae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-05T21:04:22.547332Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcaribbean"],"destinationStat":"caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","_id":"62df7f5743d9f46d947e01bd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The 18th-Century quest to weigh Earth was crucial to better understanding our Universe – and it took a lonely mountain in Scotland to help achieve the task.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the summer of 1774, the United Kingdom's Astronomer Royal, Nevil Maskelyne, stood on the side of a Scottish mountain contemplating something far more profound than the view. He was trying to work out exactly how much the Earth weighed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchiehallion, in Perthshire, is what's often referred to as a whaleback ridge. The mountain runs from east to west – the north and south slopes are extremely steep – with a tricky, precipitous west slope marking the head, and a much longer, gentler eastern slope marking the tail, up which most hikes are attempted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I got my first glimpse of the head-end of Schiehallion from the northern shores of Loch Rannoch, I realised that it could almost pass for a volcano, with its steep sides tapering upwards to a sharp point. This was exactly the kind of mountain requested by Maskelyne in 1772 when setting fellow astronomer Charles Mason about the task of finding something of suitable bulk to survey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Knowing the Earth's mass would allow scientists to predict the relative masses of every known object in the known Universe, such as the Sun.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMason also needed to measure the mountain's volume and predict its mean density based on the type of rock of which it was composed. From these figures, Maskelyne would then be able to calculate the mountain's mass. In turn, he could scale these finding up to ascertain the Earth's mass to an acceptable degree of accuracy, using the Earth's radius to calculate its volume and making the best educated guess of our planet's density possible at the time. Knowing the Earth's mass would allow scientists to predict the relative masses of every known object in the known Universe, such as the Sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason travelled extensively, eventually finding the 1,083m-high Schiehallion with the expert help of local \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eghillie outdoor guides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Although a distinguished surveyor, who had recently returned to Britain after settling an aristocratic land dispute in the United States by establishing the Mason-Dixon line (later co-opted as a line of division in the Civil War), the idea of spending more months in the Scottish Highlands did not appeal to him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Schiehallion seen across a small lochan at Glengoulandie in Highland Perthshire on a sunny Autumn day","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne thus elected to personally oversee the work that would eventually give Schiehallion something akin to celebrity status in the hiking world, as evidenced by the 20,000 hikers who visit each year. They each pass a commemorative cairn, celebrating the work of Maskelyne and his team, in the Braes of Foss carpark at the start of the hike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot long into my own ascent of Schiehallion, I saw my first fellow hiker trudging down a well-trodden path, looking somewhat dishevelled. Early autumn had rebranded the bracken-laced slopes in a burnt sienna, while above me there was only cloud and, presumably, the rest of the mountain. Already though, with no large mountains nearby, the view from the lower slopes exposed vast tracts of central Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the hiker neared me, I recognised an eager exhaustion in him. \"I did it,\" he said. \"My first Munro,\" referencing the 282 mountains across Scotland whose peaks lie above 3,000ft. With the carpark in sight, he was eager to get off the mountain. \"I'm glad it's over,\" he said. His shellshocked-looking springer spaniel followed after him, barely stopping to sniff my boot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient Roman mystery solved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a cliff changed our understanding of time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's mysterious 'loch dwellers'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGravity never seems quite as strong as when you're hiking uphill. In only a few minutes, I felt that sweet pull of the mountain drawing me in. Before long, the ground in front of me was all I saw; a morass of stone and hardy grasses, leading me on until we fell together like weary heavyweight boxers whenever I stopped for a water break.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESir Isaac Newton was the first to determine that everything has its own gravitational force. He also believed that gravity was too weak to measure at anything lower than a planetary level. But without having a measurement of Earth's gravity, it would be impossible to calculate its weight, because gravity is variable. For example, if I stood on a bathroom scale on Earth, I'd weigh more than on the same set of scales on Mercury, a smaller planet than Earth with a lower gravitational force, even though my mass would remain the same.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat Maskelyne and other scientists of his time had realised was that if you could get close enough to its centre of mass, a mountain's gravity might be actually strong enough to measure. That meant finding a mountain with steep slopes. But if one mountain has a gravitational pull, so do all the others, potentially distorting the measurements. For this reason, Schiehallion, which was located far from other similarly sized mountains, was the perfect fit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cairn at Schiehallion commemorating the Reverend Nevil Maskelyne's gravitational force experiment in 1774","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne requested that observation stations be built on Schiehallion's steep north and south slopes, at points closest to the mountain's centre of mass. From here, a pendulum was hung, pulled towards the centre of the Earth by our planet's own, superior gravitational force. Crucially, Maskelyne needed to prove that Schiehallion's gravity was drawing the bob of the pendulum away from its vertical position.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaskelyne did this by tracking the transit of 43 different stars from each observation station to triangulate what is known as \"true vertical\", ie, the angle of the pendulum, had it been suspended on a flat plain, affected only by the Earth's gravitational pull and nothing else. He discovered that from each observation station on either side of the mountain, there was a clear deviation of the pendulum away from true vertical, towards the mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchiehallion's gravitational pull was thus proven, but the work was just getting started. Next, the whole mountain was to be surveyed in order to calculate its volume, a task that fell to the team of mathematician Charles Hutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInclement weather is certainly no stranger to Schiehallion; it took Hutton's team almost two years to fully map the mountain because of it. As I reached the ridgetop, the clouds descended further, blotting everything out. Soon, the well-marked path disappeared into a challenging boulder field. Only the odd mist-obscured cairn indicated the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA spectral couple appeared through the gloom and told me that the peak was not too far off. Ten minutes later, the route I was on seemed to be heading downhill. But worse, the cairns had disappeared and the path was angling round towards the sheer north face. I found it difficult to tell whether the boulder I stood on was overhanging the abyss or just more stone, so I stopped to pull out my map and compass. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Hutton finished surveying the mountain, he had a map covered in thousands of precise longitudinal and elevation readings. In school we learn to compute a cube's volume by multiplying its length, width and height. But real life doesn't give us straight lines; it gives us curves, aberrations, knolls and fissures. These were exactly what Hutton's measurements showed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty hiking path leading up Schiehallion, Perthshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey were proving a little tricker to compute, and calculating the volume of the whole mountain seemed virtually impossible. Then Hutton had the ingenious idea of dividing the mountain up by bunching values at similar altitudes together. Taking a pencil, he connected those altitude points together, forming a series of imperfect rings. Inadvertently, he had just invented contour lines, which, to this day, remain one of the most valuable pieces of information on a map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I suspected, I was lost. After the correct path descended slightly from one of Schiehallion's many false peaks, I'd taken a wrong turn. My map showed densely packed contour lines right about where I judged myself to be standing, which meant it was about to get very steep, very soon. I abruptly retraced my steps, thanking Hutton and his contour lines for quite possibly saving me from falling over a cliff edge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1775, Maskelyne presented the final results to the Royal Society. We now know that the estimations of Maskelyne and his team were within 20% of what the Earth is now thought to have a mass of (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fspaceplace.nasa.gov\u002Fplanets-weight\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E5.97 x 10^24kg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in case you were wondering), a significant improvement on previous estimates at the time. Maskelyne and Hutton's measurements were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmedium.com\u002Froaming-physicist\u002Fusing-a-mountain-to-weigh-the-world-59eb2cfb3d2c\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eused as recently as 2007\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to obtain a closer estimate of the Earth's mass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientific discovery is not unlike hiking up a cold, damp, cloudy mountainside. But this 18th-Century feat cleared a great deal of mist for future astronomers and physicists, not to mention the many hikers who attempt to reach the peak of Schiehallion every day in homage to this geological marvel's contribution to our understanding of the cosmos. And thanks to those experiments, those ingenious contour lines will always give us a sense of a mountain's shape, even when our eyes cannot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-08T01:36:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How a Scottish mountain weighed the planet","headlineShort":"How much does the Earth weigh?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The cone shaped summit of Schiehallion, Perthshire above the east end of Loch Rannoch","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.6668","longitude":"-4.1001","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The cone shaped summit of Schiehallion, Perthshire above the east end of Loch Rannoch","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The 18th-Century quest to weigh Earth was crucial to better understanding our Universe – and it took a lonely mountain in Scotland to help achieve the task.","summaryShort":"A Scottish mountain helped scientists find the answer","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-07T20:19:24.204202Z","entity":"article","guid":"2c17e167-ffa1-4e9f-8d68-d44bd201aeb8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T03:56:54.904165Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain","_id":"62df7feb43d9f457251e75d2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Hewn from a near-mythic Scottish mountain, colossal Cruachan Power Station in Argyll is a model for renewable and low-carbon energy production and a pioneer in sustainable tourism.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the west of Scotland, above the crystal-clear waters of Loch Awe, is Ben Cruachan, the soaring remnant of some distant geological upheaval. The pine-skirted mountain is the highest point of a horseshoe of scalloped granite, spewed boulders and scree faces, and helps cradle Cruachan Dam, a mighty reservoir that offers a glorious panorama of the maze-like lochs and hills that make up mainland Argyll.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis landscape, with waters that run downhill and Atlantic salmon that leap up, is home to pine marten and golden eagle, osprey and rutting red deer. Often, Cruachan – \"conical hill\" in Scots Gaelic and Argyll's highest mountain – is also the backdrop for hillwalkers wearing fluorescent waterproofs or mosquito repellent and mountain bikers bearing broad grins. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut most visitors come here for what can't be seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ben Cruachan is a hollow mountain – a shell of quarried rock – and 325m beneath the dam's towering buttress hides one of the most monumental engineering projects in Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBehind colossal walls of solid granite is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcruachan.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECruachan Power Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a subterranean world of machine halls, transmission lines and turbines with a capacity of 440 megawatts – or enough to power nearly 100,000 homes. It took a workforce of 4,000 to scoop out the insides of the mountain in the early 1960s and, by 1965, they'd helped create the first hydroelectric power station of its kind in the world. An aerial shot of Cruachan reveals no hint of this underground triumph.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtqhn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI first visited Cruachan Power Station some 35 years ago, aged seven, and I remember standing in awe, as if having walked into a colossal Hollywood production set. Down a 1.5km-long road blasted into the mountain, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcruachan.co.uk\u002Frequest-a-tour\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E now take visitors into the very heart of this engineering temple – passing through a pitch-black entranceway and past dark corners and haunting tunnels that lead to control rooms in huge self-supporting caverns. This was where I was headed again, but in truth the story of Cruachan today begins only moments from the roadside, at one of the rare parts of the power station visible to the eye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was never anything like this before,\" said Sarah Cameron, manager of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcruachan.co.uk\u002Fvisit-us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECruachan Visitor Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where I began my latest trip underground. \"And, nowadays, the biodiversity leading to the dam is extraordinary – butterflies, birds of prey, deer. It shows how nature can thrive alongside a project of this size. The power station has no visual impact. And no one knows it's here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The power station has no visual impact. And no one knows it's here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe centre lies tucked off the roadside, at the outflow to Loch Awe, occupying a modern building with an outlook over a trout farm. Inside, the museum shows the story of Cruachan to be a complex meld of science, technology and engineering, with displays bringing history to life and explaining how the world's largest source of low-carbon energy (hydroelectric power) is generated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsing four reversible turbines, the pumped storage hydro plant drives the loch water upwards, over millennia of strata, to fill the mountain reservoir when demand for electricity is low. This procedure recasts the power station as an immense battery, with the water stored for when it is needed. When demand surges, the stockpiled water is released and flushed through underground rotors to create power at rapid speed. When the network needs it, electricity can be triggered in as little as 28 seconds. By comparison, a traditional coal plant can take hours to spark to life. And the reservoir has a storage capacity of 10 million cubic metres — enough to meet the domestic water needs of the whole of Great Britain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtqnk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"More than 2,000 Olympic-sized swimming pools can fit in the reservoir, so imagine how much energy can be created at the touch of a button,\" explained Cameron, pointing up the hillside towards Cruachan Dam. \"Yet many people cannot recognise the benefits because we're hidden. To understand it, you need to know we're delivering clean, green, efficient energy, which is more important than ever.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the clock struck the hour, a minibus appeared out of the security gate and we began our journey underground, like a rabbit vanishing into its hole. My own memories rushed back, the gentle slide into darkness awakening moments from an earlier life. And, moments later, along the concealed road, we arrived in another world entirely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe engineers of the early 1960s were known as the Tunnel Tigers for their strong work ethic, and, over six years of construction, from 1959 to 1965, they hand-drilled and bored the rock, packed it with gelignite and detonated it. Working in the dark, they eventually removed more than 220,000 cubic metres of rubble, with one 18-year-old first-timer admitting the experience at the time was one of shock and awe. \"The heat, the smoke – you couldn't see your hands in front of you,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn total, 20km of tunnels and chambers were excavated, including the near-100m long, 36m-high machine hall. To add to that, one barrage, two dams, 13 aqueducts and three generating stations were built. Danger, too, was an ever present. Some 36 workers lost their lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was an unsparing existence: toiling during exhausting 12-18 hour shifts, inhaling dense dust and smoke. Loose rocks as large as cars would often plummet from exposed walls, while the tunnel blasting made it seem as though Ben Cruachan was shaking above them. The gelignite had a smell that resulted in splitting headaches and burning eyes. \"It was scary stuff,\" another labourer said at the time. It was like they were waging war against the mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtqlp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI entered the machine hall in the company of Colin MacFarlane, an electrical control and instrumental engineer involved in the day-to-day running of the station. We entered the cavernous machine hall – high enough to house the Tower of London and wide enough to fit Big Ben on its side – then stopped at the power-generating turbines, each of which weighs 650 tonnes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As engineering marvels go, it's a knockout, isn't it?\" asked MacFarlane, as I stood in awe for the second time in my life. \"All this machinery you can see is like an iceberg. This is only the tip, as most of it is hidden beneath our feet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As engineering marvels go, it's a knockout, isn't it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater, we stopped at the base of a staircase in the power station's cable shaft. With 1,420 steps, the staircase is the tallest in Britain. Around us, the air carried a soft transformer buzz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt most of the world's greenest power stations, the daily operations are rarely peaceful. Like Cruachan, many are open to tourists, with visitor centres demonstrating the benefits of green energy through tours, exhibitions and interactive walk arounds. Of the most impressive to see first hand are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pse.com\u002Fen\u002Fpages\u002Ftours-and-recreation\u002Fsnoqualmie-tours\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESnoqualmie Falls Hydroelectric Plant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Seattle, US (completed in 1899, it's the world's oldest underground power station) and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hydroquebec.com\u002Fvisit\u002Fbaie-james\u002Fbourassa.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert-Bourassa Generating Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Quebec, Canada (with 16 turbines, it's the world's largest underground power station). Elsewhere in the UK, there are three other pumped storage hydro plants, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fhc.co.uk\u002Fen\u002Fpower-stations\u002Fdinorwig-power-station\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDinorwig Power Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Llanberis, Wales, hidden from sight inside Europe's largest man-made cavern. Unfortunately, the visitor centre is currently closed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtpzb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat these power stations all have in common is this: they've taken advantage of their landscape to provide long-term green energy. And they are doing so at a serendipitous moment, with demand at record levels and renewables like wind, solar and hydro power \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-56530424\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eturning a new chapter in energy provision\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently, hydro power makes up 16% of the world's electricity, accounting for more than 60% of renewable energy generation. Or as MacFarlane put it: \"People see the potential for high-value green energy, so we're the good guys. Plus, it's exciting when engineering projects like ours come out of the ground, yet remain out of sight, out of mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet Cruachan's story does not stop here. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.drax.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDrax Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Yorkshire-based renewable energy company that owns Cruachan, has set the ambitious target of becoming one of the first companies in the world to run as carbon negative. Besides that, Cruachan 2.0 is in the pipeline, with plans to raise capacity to 1.04GW to reach its full renewable potential by 2030, and to help meet Scotland's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.scot\u002Fpolicies\u002Fclimate-change\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enet zero targets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by 2045. And, as potentially the first pumped storage hydro plant to be built in the UK for more than 40 years, Cruachan 2.0 will ensure there is no return to fossil fuels, regardless of demand and regardless of whether the wind is blowing or sun is shining.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd it looks like they'll keep moving mountains to do it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-01T10:56:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mountain that helps power Britain","headlineShort":"Scotland's underground energy fortress","image":["p0chtptk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.4063534","longitude":"-5.1150507","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62df7f2643d9f457224cbb67"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0chtptk"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211007-how-a-scottish-mountain-weighed-the-planet","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hewn from a near-mythic Scottish mountain, colossal Cruachan Power Station in Argyll is a model for renewable and low-carbon energy production and a pioneer in sustainable tourism.","summaryShort":"It's a complex meld of science, technology and engineering","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-30T21:57:12.270716Z","entity":"article","guid":"664bc71a-f14e-4a59-b030-b7547656282b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:22:02.372262Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fscotland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_scotland_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood","_id":"62df7ebb43d9f46d911c7b83","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For more than 1,000 years, a rare reddish-purple seaweed known as dulse has fed coastal communities in Northern Ireland. Now, it’s making waves as a trendy superfood.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Hand-picked from the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAt 04:00 every morning between May and September, Stephen McAllister peers out the window of his bungalow along Northern Ireland’s craggy Antrim Coast, looks at the sky and decides if he should walk into the ocean. If it’s clear, he’ll slide on his waterproof overalls, grab a plastic bag and follow a boulder-strewn path into the frigid waters at Garron Point that four generations of McAllisters have used before him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFor the next three hours, McAllister plucks fistfuls of wild reddish-purple algae clinging to the rocks that reveal themselves as the sea draws back at low tide. He then stores his harvest deep in a hidden karst cave to keep it moist, before spreading the leathery fronds on a limestone bluff by the beach to dry in the Irish sun the following morning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EKnown as dulse, this edible seaweed has been a secret staple of the Irish diet for more than 1,000 years, and helped entire coastal communities survive during the Great Famine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy father picks it. My great-uncle picked it. Even my great-grandmother – a one-eyed widow with an eye-patch – used to pick it. Back then, there was nothing else to eat,” McAllister said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Forgotten fronds","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile dulse (which comes from the Gaelic \u003Cem\u003Eduileasg\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) grows in cold-water pockets of the North Atlantic and Pacific from Canada to Scotland, “it’s as Irish as potatoes,” according to chef, writer and director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food Northern Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Paula McIntyre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, harvesting Irish dulse (a process known as ‘dulsing’) goes back more than 1,400 years to the monks of Saint Columba – one of Ireland’s most important saints. In the 7th and 8th Centuries, local law in the Irish text Críth Gablach stated that any traveller calling at one’s door should be offered a serving of dulse, and that a crop of dulse on a rock was as valuable as three cows. Since then, fishermen from Cork to Carnlough have traditionally supplemented their incomes and diets with the mineral- and protein-rich dried sea vegetable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Ireland’s potato crop failed in the 1840s, many inland residents migrated to the shores to forage for seaweed. Coastal communities survived by boiling the algae into a porridge-like pulp or drying it in the sun to turn into salty crisps. However, as times improved, many Irish turned their backs on seaweed-spiked puddings and snacks throughout the 20th Century, and this rare bounty was listed as one of UK's ‘\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.org.uk\u002Fff-products\u002Fdulse\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’ by Slow Food’s Ark of Taste programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A turning tide","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn the last few years, a wave of chefs and artisans has caused something of a seaweed renaissance throughout Ireland. Today, you'll find bags of dulse for sale at Belfast's iconic \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.belfastcity.gov.uk\u002Ftourism-venues\u002Fstgeorgesmarket\u002Fstgeorgesmarket-index.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt George's Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; some of the UK’s finest restaurants have started serving it; and supermarkets, sweet shops, post offices and pubs from County Clare to County Antrim stock raw dulse leaves that fly off the shelves each summer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“Dulse is the epitome of Irish food. It’s seeped into our history and sustained us during times of extreme poverty, but we’ve traditionally shunned it because it was a peasant food,” McIntyre said. “It’s also one of the most nutritious things you can eat, and in the last five years as people have awoken to that, it’s started appearing on menus and local entrepreneurs have started incorporating it into dishes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe world has taken notice, too. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fabcnews.go.com\u002FLifestyle\u002Fmeet-holy-grail-seafood-dulse-bacon-flavored-seaweed\u002Fstory?id=32476302\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EABC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called dulse ‘the holy grail of seafood’, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.newyorker.com\u002Fmagazine\u002F2015\u002F11\u002F02\u002Fa-new-leaf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe New Yorker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E claimed ‘seaweed could be a miracle food’ and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymail.co.uk\u002Fhealth\u002Farticle-5274395\u002FEight-reasons-eating-ingredient.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJamie Oliver\u003C\u002Fa\u003E said it was ‘the most nutritious vegetable in the world’ after eating it helped him lose two stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"From spurned to churned","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAllison and Will Abernethy are two such entrepreneurs. Five years ago in the rolling patchwork sheep farms of Dromara, the husband-and-wife team started making dulse- and sea salt-flavoured butter on a 100-year-old hand-cranked churn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EToday, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abernethybutter.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbernethy Butter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is Northern Ireland's only \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nigoodfood.com\u002Fproducers\u002Fabernethy-butter\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDEFRA Food Star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The couple supplies butter to Heston Blumenthal’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefatduck.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Fat Duck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and they’ve been invited to 10 Downing Street to meet Prince Charles, Camilla and the Duchess of Gloucester.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“By itself, raw dulse can overpower you, but milled and mixed, it gives butter a lovely, natural saltiness,” Allison said. “It’s just something we tried that took off for us,” Will added, spreading dulse butter on a warm scone. “I never got to meet royalty when I was just herding sheep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Chewing the ocean","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAccording to Chris Fearon, a winner of BBC's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb0071y6r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat British Menu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and head chef at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.michaeldeane.co.uk\u002Fdeanes-at-queens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeanes at Queens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Belfast, part of what makes dulse such a unique ingredient is its versatility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“When you eat it raw, it can taste like you’re chewing the ocean,” he said. “Fresh dulse is actually quite sweet, but the longer you age it, the saltier it gets. Yet, when you pan-fry it, it has a really interesting, nutty, smoky flavour – almost like bacon.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFearon has recently started incorporating dulse into a dish of maple-cured salmon with Bushmills whiskey, and he says it’s one of the most popular items on the menu. “Ever since the idea of [New] Nordic cuisine began emerging where you use everything from the sea, dulse has really made a comeback here.” Fearon said. “People associate it with their childhood.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen there was no money about, our mothers would just give us a wee bag of dulse to chew on. Now, it’s become a hip, health thing, and we sell six stone of it a week,” said Kieran Sloan, owner of Sawers deli in Belfast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A sea superfood","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many children in Ireland, Gillian Thompson grew up eating dulse and toffee together at the seashore and knew men who would collect it each summer for beer money, but she never associated it as a ‘health food’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThen in 2005, she moved into a seaside cottage outside Carnlough and quickly discovered that the Emerald Isle’s 3,171km coastline is home to some 501 types of algae – many of which are not only edible, but packed with nutrients. A year later, she launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Firishseaweed.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Irish Seaweed Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENow, when the tide draws back each clear day from late April to September, she scrambles over the rocks with a mesh bag to supply local post offices and supermarkets in nearby Cushendall and Waterfoot with dulse, while shipping other algae like sea spaghetti, kombu royale and carrageen moss as far away as Germany and Holland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EPeople think of seaweed and think of washed up, stinking stuff on the beach. But these sea vegetables often have more iron, magnesium, potassium and minerals [that] your body needs than land vegetables like carrots and potatoes,” Thompson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Underwater edibles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENot all of Thompson’s hand-picked harvest gets shipped abroad or placed in local shops. This year, she started supplying Stevie Fagan, head chef at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.upstairsatjoes.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUpstairs at Joe’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Cushendall, with a buffet of underwater edibles, including pepper dulse – which she delicately removes from the rocks with a scalpel and is nicknamed the ‘truffle of the sea’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIronically, Fagan’s great-grandfather was one of the first people in Northern Ireland to import fruits and vegetables back in the 1800s, and while Fagan is a third-generation dulse harvester himself, he’d never heard of many of the local seaweed varieties that showed up in his kitchen last month.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“I’m mixing the dulse with chilli and coriander to make a peri peri-style prawn dish with chorizo,” Fagan said, flipping a frying pan full of steaming seafood and turning towards small bags labelled ‘Wakame’ and ‘Sea spaghetti’. “But I can’t wait to experiment with those things.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Seaweed baths","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EPerhaps nowhere is dulse more famous than the town of Ballycastle, which faces Scotland from across the Sea of Moyle on Northern Ireland’s northern tip. Every August since 1606, the town has hosted the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.causewaycoastandglens.gov.uk\u002Fthe-auld-lammas-fair-ballycastle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAuld Lammas Fair\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to mark the end of summer, and families from all over Ireland come to sell dulse with ‘Yellow Man’, a toffee-textured honeycomb whose sweet, uneven shards pair well with dulse’s salty tang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELike other Ballycastle children, Liam McBride grew up eating and harvesting dulse with his father. But when he was unwell, his mother used to boil dulse, carrageen moss and other seaweeds into teas and draw him seaweed baths to cure everything from colds to skin rashes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“The natural healing properties of seaweed is something that families here have passed down for generations,” McBride said. In fact, at the beginning of the 20th Century, there were as many as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.voyaseaweedbaths.com\u002Fthe-voya-story\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E300\u003C\u002Fa\u003E seaweed bathhouses scattered throughout Ireland. In 2016, McBride opened \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fseahaventherapy.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESea Haven Therapy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Northern Ireland’s second seaweed bath, down the street from where he grew up. “As a culture, we’d forgotten about the nutritional benefits of seaweed for a long time,” McBride said. “Now, we’re starting to tap back into the holistic benefits, too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A sustainable staple","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBack at Garron Point, McAllister finishes hiding his harvest in the karst cave, strips out of his overalls and walks out to the road to hang a hand-painted sign reading ‘Fresh Dulse’ outside his bungalow. It’s the start of the season, and soon inland Irish families will migrate to the coasts to find fresh dulse, just as they always have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“There are a lot more people harvesting and selling it these days, that’s for sure” McAllister said, nodding up the coast to Thompson’s cottage. “But there’s enough dulse out here for all of us. No-one’s going hungry.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood-23"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-05-23T14:15:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The renaissance of Northern Ireland’s forgotten ‘seafood’","headlineShort":"Northern Ireland's forgotten superfood","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"55.0442871","longitude":"-5.9666839","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For more than 1,000 years, a rare reddish-purple seaweed known as dulse has fed coastal communities in Northern Ireland. Now, it’s making waves as a trendy superfood.","summaryShort":"‘It’s as Irish as potatoes’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:25:16.836035Z","entity":"article","guid":"859814d7-59eb-4b1a-9a93-8d56fe0274fc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:30:07.147934Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland","_id":"62df819d43d9f458590f1538","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"French refugees brought a version of this bread to Ireland centuries ago – and in one Irish city it’s become such a staple, residents are referred to by its name.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe small city of Waterford, Ireland, has a couple of claims to fame. The most internationally recognised is its crystal, which dates to 1783 and still ships all over the world today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe second is a product you’re less likely to find abroad. It’s humbler. It’s cheaper. It’s something that people across Ireland immediately identify with the town. Many Waterford residents consume it on a daily basis, and it inspires the kind of loyalty (and competitiveness) seen elsewhere only at hurling or rugby matches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is the blaa: a soft white bun that has been a Waterford staple for centuries. “It’s so synonymous with the city that other counties often refer to Waterford city people as ‘the blaas’,” said \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jackswalkingtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJack Burtchaell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Waterford historian and tour guide. “At sport events, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FList_of_Irish_county_nicknames\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKilkenny are the cats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Wexford are the yellow bellies. And Waterford? They’re the blaas.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf the blaa is a key part of Waterford identity, then Waterford – and its people and products – are integral to the blaa. That, at least, was the decision of the European Union, which awarded the Waterford blaa with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fagriculture\u002Fquality\u002Fschemes_en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EProtected Geographical Indication\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (PGI) status in 2013 – meaning that, like Champagne or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, the origins and local production of the blaa are so important, it can’t be called blaa unless it’s made in the vicinity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of blaa’s most important features is its soft, doughy insides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe blaa requires only salt, yeast, flour and water to make. The result – a bun with enough flavour to make it interesting but not so much that it’s overpowering – makes it the perfect vehicle for practically any ingredient: egg and bacon, ham and cheese, jam, pulled pork. One chef in Galway even used miniature versions as sliders for mackerel and salt cod.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut that doesn’t mean that traditionalists will fill a blaa with just anything. “One real Waterford man said to me, ‘If I got my burger in a blaa at a restaurant, I’d hand it back.’ He sees blaa as a breakfast thing,” said Avril Bowe of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwalshsbakehouse.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWalsh’s Bakehouse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the two main blaa producers in town. “You don’t eat your blaas in Waterford, really, after 12.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat’s partly because blaas are best eaten within a few hours of being baked. Fresh, they can last two or three days, if they must. But then they start to lose their flavour and texture, the bakers say. (Walsh’s, which exports blaas around the world, freezes them first to extend their shelf life).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, the most devoted purists have blaas at breakfast with just one item: Irish butter. What about toasting it, I asked. “I do it, I admit,” said head baker Michael Walsh, one of the two brothers who run the bakery. “I wouldn’t be a toast-your-blaa fan at all,” Bowe disagreed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, it’s getting increasingly common to see a blaa filled with breakfast combinations, like bacon, black pudding and egg. But it can also be eaten as a mid-morning snack or early lunch. At the height of the crystal factory’s boom, workers often brought blaas smeared with butter and luncheon meat – a bright pink spiced-pork mixture nicknamed \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailyedge.ie\u002Fred-lead-waterford-2673612-Mar2016\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E‘red lead’\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a reference to the lead used in Waterford crystal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother tradition is to load the blaa with butter… and crisps. “It’s an acquired taste, but that’s what the purists love,” Bowe said with a laugh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhatever you do, though, just don’t make the mistake of calling a blaa a bap, the word used across the British Isles for a similarly shaped bread roll. For one, a blaa is doughier and softer than its better-known counterpart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut what really sets the blaa apart is the amount of flour used – including a heavy dusting just before baking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its importance to Waterford, the blaa didn’t start out as an Irish invention. In the 17th Century, wheat was rare. It was difficult to grow in Ireland’s damp, chilly climate; most bread was made from other grains, like oats. White bread, which is made from wheat, was a luxury.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut toward the end of the century, French Protestants, persecuted and even killed under King Louis XIV’s Catholic-only regime, began to flee. Some of the refugees – called Huguenots – came to Waterford, at the time a bustling commercial port. Unlike the Irish, they were used to baking with wheat. They also were committed to continuing the practice abroad. “They brought with them the French tradition of bread,” Burtchaell said. “That was the \u003Cem\u003Epain blanc\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [white bread]. The Waterford accent could never manage \u003Cem\u003Epain blanc\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and it became the blaa.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, blaa described the small balls of dough cast aside from making the main loaf of bread. “They would be left over, and then they realised these things taste nicer than the actual \u003Cem\u003Epain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,” said Brian Hickey, owner of Walsh’s main competitor in Waterford, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fhickeysbakery.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHickey’s Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with a chuckle. The beloved blaa was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs late as the 1950s and 1960s, there was a blaa bakery boom in Waterford, with about 15 bakeries making blaas in the city at the time. Today, there are only a couple in Waterford proper. (Two others in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwaterfordblaa.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaterford Blaa Bakers Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.barronsbakery.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBarron’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Kilmacow, are outside the city).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne is Hickey’s, which opened in 1958 and is now run by the third generation of the Hickey family. “Small bakeries now are very few and far between,” said Hickey, who chalks the change up to the industrialisation of Irish food and growth of big factories. “Put it this way: if the blaas weren’t here, there’d be no bakeries in Waterford. The blaas are what’s keeping us open.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMuch of that is down to customer loyalty: Waterford residents tend to frequent one bakery or the other. At about 08:00 on a recent weekday I popped into Hickey’s, where the shopfront has been manned by Mary for nearly 30 years. I followed in a 10-year-old boy and his father on their school run.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen they left, blaas in hand, Mary turned to me. “Poor little lad has a problem with his kidney,” she said. “He’s not feeling too well.” It was clear this was more likely the thousandth time the father and son had been here than the first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWaterford’s two remaining blaa bakeries share a great deal in terms of their heritage and process. Both bakeries are historical, family-run and rely on only three or four bakers at a shift. But there are key differences. Walsh’s, which opened in 1921, still uses their original location – just down the street from Hickey’s – for baking at night. By day, though, they use a new factory on the outskirts of town, where their bakers show off top-end machinery and where a space is being set up specifically to exhibit the blaa’s history and heritage to visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt Hickey’s, meanwhile, the bakery remains in its original location in a room behind the shopfront. Technology is at a minimum, with a mixer and a rudimentary machine that helps shape the dough into balls. The slower process means the dough gets more time to sit. “It’s a bit like sourdough, you see. It’s all about leaving it to rest, knocking it back and letting it rise again,” Hickey said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Hickey’s, nearly every step of the process is done by hand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut customer loyalty doesn’t just extend to the particular bakery and its process. It also includes the type of blaa. Although all of a bakery’s blaas use the same recipe, some will be baked for longer, giving them crusty tops; others are soft and delicate all the way through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with everything else blaa-related, customers always have a firm preference.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Some say, ‘Oh, don’t give me any of those soft jobs, give me six of the crusty ones, and crustier the better’ – meaning blacker the better,” Hickey said. “Then other people come in and say the complete opposite: ‘Give me the softest ones you have’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland-25"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-02-06T14:07:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The bread that changed how the Irish eat breakfast","headlineShort":"The Irish answer to French bread","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"52.2475523","longitude":"-7.1480493","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"French refugees brought a version of this bread to Ireland centuries ago – and in one Irish city it’s become such a staple, residents are referred to by its name.","summaryShort":"There are only a few bakeries left that can make it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:27:27.392502Z","entity":"article","guid":"e3b11ffa-7181-4396-b248-6ba1e3ab1ec8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:33:27.078155Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters","_id":"62df7ef143d9f46dab6561f7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The most surprising one: the importance of letting the fairies out of the bread before baking to ensure good luck.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor decades, I assumed the cross my Irish grandmother cut into the top of her round loaves of soda bread in her upstate New York farmhouse was a traditional blessing. It was a natural conclusion since her bread was as soul-sustaining as communion at an Irish Catholic mass. So I was astounded to learn that the bread cross had a far more ancient – and superstitious – purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked master baker Mary Gleeson, co-owner of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gleesonstownhouse.com\u002F\"\u003EGleesons Restaurant & Rooms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Irish town of Roscommon about the cross tradition, she answered without hesitation: “You have to cut a cross in the dough to let the fairies out.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“What happens if you don’t?” I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t know, we’re scared not to,” she replied, followed by a self-conscious giggle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoda bread has always held mystery for me. My grammy didn’t use a recipe and never measured ingredients. In fact, she didn’t even use utensils. She merely dumped flour on the Formica kitchen table and used a throwing-in method that was so fast it was like a slight-of-hand magic trick. She’d say, “Katie, some day you’re going to have to do this on your own.” Yet when the day came, the ingredient measurements I’d taken down during her eyeballed baking process were not enough, and my bread was tough and dense.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis handmade bread was the core sustenance for my large Irish-American family, part of our shared experience, and its absence was as notable as the void left by my grandmother. So I headed to the Emerald Isle to learn the secrets of the bread bakers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBread-baking pilgrimage\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn Gleeson’s restaurant, there are four types of soda bread and five types of scones offered. The bread is so renowned that she’s presented it at embassy events in the United States and food shows in Europe. When I explained my plight to Gleeson, she said she’d also learned the throwing-in method from her granny and admitted it took time to perfect. Then she said, “Come back to me in a week when it’s quiet and I’ll teach you how to make soda bread. You’ll not leave until you’ve got it down.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, she sent me off to another master baker, Peter Ward of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcountrychoice.ie\u002F\"\u003ECountry Choice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the town of Nenagh, County Tipperary. When I arrived, the counters in the busy cafe were loaded with rustic soda bread loaves with a thick crust. It didn’t look like my grammy’s bread, but it was delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“No two soda breads are the same,” said Ward, adding that he and his wife, Mary, make completely different bread with the same ingredients. Brown soda bread, full of healthy grains, has always been the most popular version in Ireland. But you see all sorts in cafes and bakeries, from crusty white to loaves made with herbs, Guinness, treacle and walnuts or even seaweed. Yet I never found soda bread like my grammy’s: slightly sweet, savoury with caraway seeds and full of raisins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWard told me that soda bread with raisins is known as Spotted Dog or Spotted Dick, rarely seen these days in Ireland, and caraway seeds are an ingredient of the past. That news made me even more  determined to revive my ancestral bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELong ago, the Irish mostly made flat griddle bread, Ward explained, because Irish flour didn’t have enough gluten to rise with yeast. Baking soda was developed in the US in 1846 and was quickly adopted by Irish cooks, as it enabled bread with Irish flour to rise. In the late 1800s, white Canadian flour with a higher gluten content came over on returning emigration ships, and bakeries started making white bread raised with yeast, known as “shop bread”, and distributing it by horse and cart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Everyone loved soda bread at home, but it wasn’t fashionable,” Ward said, adding it revealed you were too poor to buy shop bread. Brown soda bread started its comeback paired with smoked salmon on luxury hotel menus in the 1960s, and was fully restored to popularity with the artisan food movement about 20 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDifference in the details\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe flour makes a big difference, according to Ward, as it affects the flavour and texture; he uses extra-coarse wholemeal flour made in Macroom, County Cork. He urged me to visit what he calls “The Shrine”, the historic flour mill where miller Donal Creedon stone grinds wheat the way his family has done since 1832.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was mesmerized by the ingenuity of the centuries-old mill that was powered by water wheels until the 1950s. Wooden containers lifted grain in a conveyor system, and massive mill stones ground large quantities of grain. Creedon works this three-storey mill alone and knows intuitively when the coarseness is just right.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMacroom flour is hailed by top Irish chefs, including Declan Ryan, who earned Ireland’s first Michelin star at his Cork restaurant, Arbutus Lodge."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E\u003Cspan\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E250g wholemeal flour, coarsely ground\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E125g white flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60g wheat bran\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E70g pinhead oatmeal\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp baking soda, sieved\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EPinch of salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp honey\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E600ml buttermilk\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMix dry ingredients and aerate. Add the honey to the buttermilk and mix. Make a well in the centre of the flour and add most of the buttermilk. Mix quickly until just moistened, adding buttermilk as needed for a wet consistency. Turn dough onto a floured board and round it up gently, making it two inches thick. Place on a greased baking sheet and cut a half-inch-deep cross into the top. Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 60 minutes, turning the bread over for the last 10 minutes. Tap on the bottom: a hollow sound means it’s done. Cool on a wire rack covered with a damp tea towel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Mary Gleeson’s brown soda bread","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"Baskets of brown soda bread graced the tables there, and because demand for it continued after he closed the restaurant in 1999, he opened \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.arbutusbread.com\u002F\"\u003EArbutus Bread\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bakery and a stall in Cork’s English Market. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They say there are 3,000 recipes for soda bread in Ireland, but I have yet to taste one better than mine,” said Ryan, admitting he’s biased. “I make it the same way as my granny, except I add cream of tartar to lighten it, plus Macroom toasted oats.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI watched Ryan’s hands as he whipped up a batch, a kind of flour ballet. “Treat the dough as if it’s red hot – barely touch it,” he advised. I felt like a kid watching it bake through the oven door window, and couldn’t wait to get my hands into some flour to create my own bread magic back at Gleesons Restaurant & Rooms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAir is essential\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EGleeson, my bread coach, agrees that soda bread making is all about a light touch. She showed me how to aerate the flour by lifting it in the air and letting it flutter back into the bowl, stressing that aerating is the secret behind fluffy bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That’s why you barely mix the buttermilk with the dry ingredients, carefully ease the dough onto the bread board, and never, ever knead it. That pounds the air out of it,” Gleeson said. These methods are the same no matter the specific ingredients, she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy first batch of brown soda bread dough was in shreds and didn’t look right. Gleeson told me I mixed it too long and the bread would be tough. I started over with another batch, trying to do it fast with a bit of carelessness. Gleeson said to quickly add the buttermilk and go for it. I rounded up the dough ball in the flour and cut the cross to let the fairies out – I didn’t need them making trouble.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen, together we made my grammy’s soda bread with raisins and caraway seeds, employing all the tips and secrets I’d learned. I hadn’t tasted the bread for many years since my grammy passed away, and hoped it was everything I remembered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe end results\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAn impromptu group gathered by the turf fire at Gleesons Restaurant & Rooms to sample the fresh-baked breads, including Granny Gleeson, now 90 years old and still making soda bread every day for the workers on her farm. We lined up the crusty loaves, browned and fragrant with grains. Opinions flew over colour, texture and crust, and soon the group was rendered speechless eating bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I bit into my loaf, I closed my eyes and was gone with the fairies, as the Irish say, transported back to my Grammy’s farmhouse kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E "},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Isn’t that bread gorgeous?” said Gleeson. “Could you give me a copy of that recipe; I’d like to make that bread here. What should we call it?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“How about Swinford Spotted Dog in honour of my grammy’s hometown,” I suggested.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy eyes welled with tears as I handed Gleeson the recipe. For me, it was a homecoming on many levels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0493dxy.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"(Credit: Google)\" width=\"100%\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters-14"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-09-20T16:07:22.216Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Secrets of the soda bread masters","headlineShort":"Secrets of the soda bread masters","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.6310253","longitude":"-8.1932688","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The most surprising one: the importance of letting the fairies out of the bread before baking to ensure good luck.","summaryShort":"“You have to cut a cross in the dough to let the fairies out.”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:49:21.008428Z","entity":"article","guid":"168a32d2-2b58-4ccf-926d-9105269051fe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:54:12.362599Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160920-secrets-of-the-soda-bread-masters","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307}},"tags":{"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"62df7f3d43d9f46daa5b7889","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & Drink","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"0b90e0cf-5bc4-45a8-9361-98ed75aae950","id":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:20:26.485271Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078305},"tag\u002Fhistory":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhistory","_id":"62df80e243d9f457050cbb47","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"History","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6832b6dc-e349-43ec-af00-31e2e8025190","id":"tag\u002Fhistory","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:25:17.967338Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhistory","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"tag\u002Fhiking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhiking","_id":"62df81bf43d9f46da30db477","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest hiking stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Hiking","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6a47b0fb-60c0-4b53-80cf-b56fb7a41163","id":"tag\u002Fhiking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:25:01.814138Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhiking","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"tag\u002Fcity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcity","_id":"62df7f0243d9f46d95451d61","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories about cities around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"City","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T11:30:17.670446Z","entity":"tag","guid":"cbbe6796-c42e-4448-aec5-d10e873b2c24","id":"tag\u002Fcity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:09:11.91978Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcity","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078294},"tag\u002Farchaeology":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Farchaeology","_id":"62df7f2843d9f46d900553bb","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest stories about archaeology from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F18951655","name":"Archaeology","creationDateTime":"2015-11-13T11:43:20.892812Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ab6371bb-4852-41b3-8bde-45b308df886a","id":"tag\u002Farchaeology","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:59:28.600226Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Farchaeology","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"tag\u002Fheritage":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fheritage","_id":"62df81b543d9f460d03dfc7e","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest heritage stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Heritage","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:44:19.131314Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d9eea9c2-1bbc-4b73-9b1b-f8f202525713","id":"tag\u002Fheritage","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:24:56.597795Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fheritage","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"tag\u002Frestaurant":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Frestaurant","_id":"62df7f6643d9f46d84529d10","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about restaurants from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Restaurant","creationDateTime":"2021-10-05T11:55:56.997663Z","entity":"tag","guid":"b195d85d-124b-43fd-be8a-f7d5b91e614b","id":"tag\u002Frestaurant","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:46:44.990996Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Frestaurant","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078298},"tag\u002Fcultural-activities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcultural-activities","_id":"62df7fdd43d9f46d1b463b0b","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about cultural activities from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Cultural Activities","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"c9eefd3a-6c7f-41b8-81e9-b67766fdbe28","id":"tag\u002Fcultural-activities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:12:23.993293Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcultural-activities","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","_id":"62df7f0143d9f457050cb938","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest nature and outdoors stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Nature & Outdoors","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"87d24744-7f21-4467-b7db-d03e1ac9c1ca","id":"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:38:44.629616Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078300},"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","_id":"62df802f43d9f45723732668","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories on cultural traditions from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Cultural Traditions","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:28:57.916527Z","entity":"tag","guid":"62f2a0d9-399c-43a9-9833-3a4b45eb27dd","id":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:12:28.832907Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078302},"tag\u002Fborders":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fborders","_id":"62df7f3c43d9f46d9a16f559","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about borders around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Borders","creationDateTime":"2017-11-10T17:21:18.810856Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d3aa7eca-08db-439e-a23f-541d23cce795","id":"tag\u002Fborders","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:04:56.289021Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fborders","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078303},"tag\u002Fsustainability":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsustainability","_id":"62df805843d9f4586f6852e8","assetImage":null,"description":"The BBC’s latest sustainability stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Sustainability","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T11:15:28.33822Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8c7980e9-39cc-4b2b-a9ae-fac193a4b669","id":"tag\u002Fsustainability","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-29T17:09:04.557968Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fsustainability","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306},"tag\u002Ffood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood","_id":"62df7fea43d9f42c861a895c","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest food stories from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F10646","name":"Food","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T10:24:16.885549Z","entity":"tag","guid":"008f74c0-b17b-4954-b5a1-8df55b6dadc4","id":"tag\u002Ffood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:20:21.562403Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffood","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078306}},"navigations":{"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:navigation:travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","_id":"62df812c43d9f4163365a83d","item":[{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Culture","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculture-identity","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-0"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Food","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-hospitality","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-1"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Discovery","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fdiscovery","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-2"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Adventure","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fadventure-experience","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-3"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Destinations","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fdestinations","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-4"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Collections","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002F","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-5"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"About us","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F1JY27sX","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-6"},{"lineOne":"NEW!","lineTwo":"50 Reasons to Love the World","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zDE6sk","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-7"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Untold America","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220802084757\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3jXnK59","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-8"}],"primaryVertical":"travel","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:02:23.756001Z","entity":"navigation","guid":"38bbc1f1-d8a5-4713-bfe2-6aaf1b656958","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:09.071781Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078270}},"partners":{},"modules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","_id":"62df800043d9f46f44746af9","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hero","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220801-the-sacred-sisters-of-ancient-america","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hero","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:37:45.179269Z","entity":"module","guid":"79a0523a-7e5c-4be9-9a53-3f7e411d128a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-01T22:20:43.544522Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","_id":"62df819043d9f456fa56e1d8","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index-picks","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220728-the-ancient-french-town-of-floating-gardens","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220727-the-iberian-civilisation-that-vanished","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","schema":"article"}],"title":"Editor's Picks","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:38:42.775995Z","entity":"module","guid":"1d5e8e1e-8d0f-4691-a1b6-54bad73c98ce","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-01T22:21:37.280211Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078293},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","_id":"62df7ee643d9f457050cb919","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"full-width-image","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","schema":"external"}],"title":"Full Width Image","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:34:40.11256Z","entity":"module","guid":"21620296-034a-40fe-8256-d6efcdd7e0bd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:32.215265Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","_id":"62df7fb443d9f46d834bf39f","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hot-topics","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220710-the-empire-the-aztecs-couldnt-conquer","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hot Topics","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:33:42.010517Z","entity":"module","guid":"d9a25593-c5ee-497d-8c03-249fa8f88385","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-17T19:49:43.00923Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078296},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","_id":"62df80c243d9f4583323ba78","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"most-popular","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220713-how-a-drink-fuelled-a-sea-faring-people","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220712-the-orkney-sheep-reared-on-seaweed","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220711-the-worlds-oldest-sourdough","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220630-the-mountain-that-helps-power-britain","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-the-last-of-irelands-rare-wild-salmon","schema":"article"}],"title":"Most Recent","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:40:32.013726Z","entity":"module","guid":"8b5e3bec-8106-4431-93f4-864352a65ddd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-21T15:33:41.789082Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078299},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","_id":"62df812843d9f458720357b9","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"swimlane","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","schema":"collection"}],"title":"Swimlane","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:31:44.560665Z","entity":"module","guid":"7199c6f8-7f43-419a-b9d9-a3ab5e980a7a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:11:26.499351Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078307}},"indexModules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","_id":"62df80c143d9f4584149e8e3","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index","primaryVertical":"travel","title":"Index","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:36:37.38773Z","entity":"module","guid":"bf059652-7316-4b2b-b549-097e3ba7648b","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:52.703389Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","cacheLastUpdated":1659430078292,"subModules":["travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane"]}},"aroundTheBBC":{},"weathers":{},"destinations":{},"videos":{}},"ads":{},"destinationsAZ":{"azIndexFilter":"Continent"},"collectionsAZ":{"indexFilter":"MOST_RECENT"},"relatedArticlesById":{},"article":{"currentActiveArticle":null,"primaryArticle":null},"loader":{"message":null,"show":false},"location":{"currentLocation":"\u002Ftravel","previousLocation":null,"isFirstRendering":true},"serverRender":true,"hasArticleHero":{"value":false},"visitedCollectionIndex":false,"visitedTagIndex":false,"metaData":{"title":null},"fetchArticleGroupByArticleId":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null,"endpoint":null},"fetchArticleById":{"isFetching":null,"error":null},"fetchTagsByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchCollectionsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchDestinationsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchNavigationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","error":null},"fetchCollectionById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchDestinationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchAroundTheBBCByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchTagById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchWeatherById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchModuleByVertical":{"isFetching":{"site\u002Ftravel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":false},"error":null},"pagination":{"articleInfiniteScroll":{},"collectionArticlesIndex":{},"tagArticlesIndex":{},"verticalArticlesIndex":{},"premiumCollectionArticlesIndex":{},"swimlaneCollectionArticles":{},"destinationArticlesIndex":{}}}</script> <script>window.__ENTITY_ROUTES__ = {"article":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"previewArticle":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fpreview\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"premiumCollection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexColumn":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexSection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"tagArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftag\u002F:id"},"tagsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Ftags"},"verticalArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)"},"collectionsColumnsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"collectionsSectionsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"destinationsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations","entityMapping":"\u002Fdestinations"},"destinationIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations\u002F:destinationId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fdestination-guide\u002F:destinationId"}};</script> <script>window.__PWA_CLIENT_SIDE_ENABLED__=true</script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220726-072507-13aacc198a33bf95ab5265aec93ced71513c3aa4/static/js/bundle.a609731d.js"></script> <script>window.BBC_GNL_PWA_MAIN();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> (function() { /** CONFIGURATION START **/ var _sf_async_config = window._sf_async_config = (window._sf_async_config || {}); _sf_async_config.uid = '50924'; _sf_async_config.domain = 'bbc.co.uk'; _sf_async_config.flickerControl = false; _sf_async_config.useCanonical = true; _sf_async_config.sections = 'travel'; _sf_async_config.path = '/travel'; _sf_async_config.authors = false; /** CONFIGURATION END **/ function loadChartbeat() { var e = document.createElement('script'); var n = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; e.type = 'text/javascript'; e.async = true; e.src = '//web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.chartbeat.com/js/chartbeat.js'; n.parentNode.insertBefore(e, n); } loadChartbeat(); })(); </script> </div> <div id="orb-footer" class="orb-footer" dir="ltr"> <div id="navp-orb-footer-promo"></div><aside role="complementary"><div id="orb-aside" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner" role="navigation" aria-label="BBC"><h2 class="orb-footer-lead">Explore the BBC</h2><div class="orb-footer-primary-links"><ul class="domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></div></div></div></aside><footer role="contentinfo"><div id="orb-contentinfo" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner"><div><ul><li class="orb-footer-terms"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/terms/">Terms of Use</a></li><li class="orb-footer-about"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/aboutthebbc">About the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-privacy"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/privacy/">Privacy Policy</a></li><li class="orb-footer-cookies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/cookies/">Cookies</a></li><li class="orb-footer-accessibility"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li><li class="orb-footer-parental"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/guidance">Parental Guidance</a></li><li class="orb-footer-contact"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/contact">Contact the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-newsletter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcnewsletter">BBC emails for you</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-ads"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbcglobalnews.com/">Advertise with us</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-adchoices"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.com/usingthebbc/cookies/how-does-the-bbc-use-cookies-for-advertising/">AdChoices / Do Not Sell My Info</a></li></ul><small><em class="orb-hilight">Copyright © 2022 BBC.</em> The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. <span class="orb-footer-links"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://www.bbc.co.uk/editorialguidelines/guidance/feeds-and-links" class="orb-hilight">Read about our approach to external linking.</a></span></small></div></div></div></footer></div><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/redirect.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/performance.js" data-release="3.0.0-2195.b21b171e" data-ux="v5" async=""></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/more-drawer.mjs"></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/orbit.mjs" async=""></script><script nomodule="" type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/orbit.js" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">/*<![CDATA[*/ (function() { function loadJs(url) { var script = document.createElement('script'); script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.src = url; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('body')[0].appendChild(script); } window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { loadJs('https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/d374c73d6902c63302c8f75c413a677c/js/edr.js'); } }); })(); /*]]>*/</script> <script type="module">if (window.bbcuser && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined) { bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function (isUK) { if (isUK) { import('https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/a09604052573bb19bead51a4b2aba66c//js/search-suggest.js').then(drawer => { drawer.setupSearchDrawer({ searchboxAppStaticPrefix: 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/a09604052573bb19bead51a4b2aba66c/', variant: 'default', }); }); } }); }</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/navpromo/34f98a4c8573fabed16dc8acea28feb8/js/footerpromo.js" data-base="https://navpromo.api.bbci.co.uk" data-variant="" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">window.COOKIES_STATIC_HOST="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/a0bc524bc0d94d55ad5f112605059fa5/cookie-banner/cookie-prompt/"</script><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/a0bc524bc0d94d55ad5f112605059fa5/cookie-banner/cookie-banners.bundle.js" async=""></script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk//user-activity-helper/a8196ecdef2d10b40b1afc53b833773a/js/detectview.bundle.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript">"use strict";window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){return e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Failed to load reverb. No event sent")});</script><noscript><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757im_/https://sb.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=17986528&cs_ucfr=0&cv=2.0&cj=1"></noscript> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757js_/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/5.0.13//js/NotificationsMain.js" defer="defer"></script><script type="module">const drawerAPI = await window.shimport('orbit-drawer'); !window.location.href.includes('/notifications') && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { window.NotificationsMain.run(drawerAPI, "https://web.archive.org/web/20220802084757/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/5.0.13/");}})</script> </body> </html>