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Martina Odonkor | Lancaster University - Academia.edu
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I hold a B.A., an M.A. and an M.Phil from the University of Cambridge, U.K. I have worked in Ghana for 25 years, in all ten regions, consulting mainly for development partners and NGOs in collaboration with government MDAs. I relate easily to people in a variety of settings and have extensive field research experience combined with strong writing skills. I have authored numerous studies, reports and special publications. I love my work.<br /><div class="js-profile-less-about u-linkUnstyled u-tcGrayDarker u-textDecorationUnderline u-displayNone">less</div></div></div><div class="external-links-container"><ul class="profile-links new-profile js-UserInfo-social"><li><a class="ds2-5-text-link ds2-5-text-link--small" href="https://martinaodonkor.academia.edu/"><span class="ds2-5-text-link__content"><i class="fa fa-laptop"></i></span></a></li><li class="profile-profiles js-social-profiles-container"><i class="fa fa-spin fa-spinner"></i></li></ul></div></div></div><div class="right-panel-container"><div class="user-content-wrapper"><div class="uploads-container" id="social-redesign-work-container"><div class="upload-header"><h2 class="ds2-5-heading-sans-serif-xs">Uploads</h2></div><div class="documents-container backbone-social-profile-documents" style="width: 100%;"><div class="u-taCenter"></div><div class="profile--tab_content_container js-tab-pane tab-pane active" id="all"><div class="profile--tab_heading_container js-section-heading" data-section="Papers" id="Papers"><h3 class="profile--tab_heading_container">Papers by Martina Odonkor</h3></div><div class="js-work-strip profile--work_container" data-work-id="38055115"><div class="profile--work_thumbnail hidden-xs"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-thumbnail" href="https://www.academia.edu/38055115/Gender_Equality_in_Africa"><img alt="Research paper thumbnail of Gender Equality in Africa" class="work-thumbnail" src="https://attachments.academia-assets.com/58079892/thumbnails/1.jpg" /></a></div><div class="wp-workCard wp-workCard_itemContainer"><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--title"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link text-gray-darker" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-title" href="https://www.academia.edu/38055115/Gender_Equality_in_Africa">Gender Equality in Africa</a></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span>Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine NG/FH 12/2013</span><span>, 2013</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span class="js-work-more-abstract-truncated">Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der ...</span><a class="js-work-more-abstract" data-broccoli-component="work_strip.more_abstract" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-more-abstract" href="javascript:;"><span> more </span><span><i class="fa fa-caret-down"></i></span></a><span class="js-work-more-abstract-untruncated hidden">Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der Geschlechter 8/11/13 As a woman and a researcher into gender among other development issues, I was pleased to read in this year's Millennium Development Goals report for Africa, that "Progress on Goal 3 (Promote Gender Equality and Empower Women) is encouraging, with many countries achieving outstanding performance, especially on gender parity in primary school and on the number of seats women hold in national parliaments." Indeed, when it comes to policy and legislation, some consider the women's movement to have been the most successful social movement in Africa in recent decades. For the first time in history, The African Union has a female chair and there are female heads of state in two countries, Malawi and Liberia. In early September, Senegal elected its first female prime minister and the cherry on the icing came just a couple of weeks later, when Rwanda increased its female majority in government with women winning 64% of parliamentary seats. Since 2008, this small nation whose name became synonymous with genocide barely two decades ago, has had the only government in the world dominated by women, at the helm of a rapidly expanding economy. Hard-won progress is always music to the ears, but much as I like to dwell on the positive, I was stopped dead in my tracks by two news reports of a very different kind in recent weeks. The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, "because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts." I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. When they were taken to the police, they ordered them to cut grass around the police station in lieu of initiating official prosecution. What stuck in my mind was the symbolism of the dumping of the girl's violated body in a latrine and the impunity conferred on the criminal act by the male would-be enforcers of the law. The complexity of the issue of gender equality in Africa is demonstrated by the fact that the country with the world's highest and most violent rate of rape and sexual offences also has one of the highest rates of women's representation on the continent and in the world. Just under 50% of parliamentary seats in South Africa's government are held by women and yet, one in three South African women is likely</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--actions"><span class="work-strip-bookmark-button-container"></span><a id="ab13437f1b2363ba7f67b93ca14f6539" class="wp-workCard--action" rel="nofollow" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-download" data-download="{"attachment_id":58079892,"asset_id":38055115,"asset_type":"Work","button_location":"profile"}" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/58079892/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=profile"><span><i class="fa fa-arrow-down"></i></span><span>Download</span></a><span class="wp-workCard--action visible-if-viewed-by-owner inline-block" style="display: none;"><span class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper" data-work-id="38055115"><a class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button" tabindex="0"><span><i class="fa fa-pencil"></i></span><span>Edit</span></a></span></span><span id="work-strip-rankings-button-container"></span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--stats"><span><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="38055115"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38055115; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=38055115]").text(description); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=38055115]").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span></span><span><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38055115; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-work-strip[data-work-id='38055115']"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></span><span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 38055115, container: "", }); });</script></span></div><div id="work-strip-premium-row-container"></div></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/wow_profile-f77ea15d77ce96025a6048a514272ad8becbad23c641fc2b3bd6e24ca6ff1932.js","https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/work_edit-ad038b8c047c1a8d4fa01b402d530ff93c45fee2137a149a4a5398bc8ad67560.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb var dispatcherData = {} if (true){ window.WowProfile.dispatcher = window.WowProfile.dispatcher || _.clone(Backbone.Events); dispatcherData = { dispatcher: window.WowProfile.dispatcher, downloadLinkId: "ab13437f1b2363ba7f67b93ca14f6539" } } $('.js-work-strip[data-work-id=38055115]').each(function() { if (!$(this).data('initialized')) { new WowProfile.WorkStripView({ el: this, workJSON: {"id":38055115,"title":"Gender Equality in Africa","translated_title":"","metadata":{"abstract":"Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der Geschlechter 8/11/13 As a woman and a researcher into gender among other development issues, I was pleased to read in this year's Millennium Development Goals report for Africa, that \"Progress on Goal 3 (Promote Gender Equality and Empower Women) is encouraging, with many countries achieving outstanding performance, especially on gender parity in primary school and on the number of seats women hold in national parliaments.\" Indeed, when it comes to policy and legislation, some consider the women's movement to have been the most successful social movement in Africa in recent decades. For the first time in history, The African Union has a female chair and there are female heads of state in two countries, Malawi and Liberia. In early September, Senegal elected its first female prime minister and the cherry on the icing came just a couple of weeks later, when Rwanda increased its female majority in government with women winning 64% of parliamentary seats. Since 2008, this small nation whose name became synonymous with genocide barely two decades ago, has had the only government in the world dominated by women, at the helm of a rapidly expanding economy. Hard-won progress is always music to the ears, but much as I like to dwell on the positive, I was stopped dead in my tracks by two news reports of a very different kind in recent weeks. The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, \"because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts.\" I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. When they were taken to the police, they ordered them to cut grass around the police station in lieu of initiating official prosecution. What stuck in my mind was the symbolism of the dumping of the girl's violated body in a latrine and the impunity conferred on the criminal act by the male would-be enforcers of the law. The complexity of the issue of gender equality in Africa is demonstrated by the fact that the country with the world's highest and most violent rate of rape and sexual offences also has one of the highest rates of women's representation on the continent and in the world. Just under 50% of parliamentary seats in South Africa's government are held by women and yet, one in three South African women is likely","publication_date":{"day":null,"month":null,"year":2013,"errors":{}},"publication_name":"Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine NG/FH 12/2013"},"translated_abstract":"Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der Geschlechter 8/11/13 As a woman and a researcher into gender among other development issues, I was pleased to read in this year's Millennium Development Goals report for Africa, that \"Progress on Goal 3 (Promote Gender Equality and Empower Women) is encouraging, with many countries achieving outstanding performance, especially on gender parity in primary school and on the number of seats women hold in national parliaments.\" Indeed, when it comes to policy and legislation, some consider the women's movement to have been the most successful social movement in Africa in recent decades. For the first time in history, The African Union has a female chair and there are female heads of state in two countries, Malawi and Liberia. In early September, Senegal elected its first female prime minister and the cherry on the icing came just a couple of weeks later, when Rwanda increased its female majority in government with women winning 64% of parliamentary seats. Since 2008, this small nation whose name became synonymous with genocide barely two decades ago, has had the only government in the world dominated by women, at the helm of a rapidly expanding economy. Hard-won progress is always music to the ears, but much as I like to dwell on the positive, I was stopped dead in my tracks by two news reports of a very different kind in recent weeks. The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, \"because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts.\" I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. When they were taken to the police, they ordered them to cut grass around the police station in lieu of initiating official prosecution. What stuck in my mind was the symbolism of the dumping of the girl's violated body in a latrine and the impunity conferred on the criminal act by the male would-be enforcers of the law. The complexity of the issue of gender equality in Africa is demonstrated by the fact that the country with the world's highest and most violent rate of rape and sexual offences also has one of the highest rates of women's representation on the continent and in the world. Just under 50% of parliamentary seats in South Africa's government are held by women and yet, one in three South African women is likely","internal_url":"https://www.academia.edu/38055115/Gender_Equality_in_Africa","translated_internal_url":"","created_at":"2018-12-29T00:31:26.791-08:00","preview_url":null,"current_user_can_edit":null,"current_user_is_owner":null,"owner_id":96557121,"coauthors_can_edit":true,"document_type":"paper","co_author_tags":[],"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":58079892,"title":"","file_type":"pdf","scribd_thumbnail_url":"https://attachments.academia-assets.com/58079892/thumbnails/1.jpg","file_name":"Gender_equality_in_Africa.pdf","download_url":"https://www.academia.edu/attachments/58079892/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&","bulk_download_file_name":"Gender_Equality_in_Africa.pdf","bulk_download_url":"https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/58079892/Gender_equality_in_Africa-libre.pdf?1546072639=\u0026response-content-disposition=attachment%3B+filename%3DGender_Equality_in_Africa.pdf\u0026Expires=1732403240\u0026Signature=YybXi5mF27wZwkYHBORLMB8hF1RX6b5~sxhzh5mDUYLnYP8D7NQZkHsSo4oAjOuAZj59oyZXCe1AVaj2K-QtDAYY88XBHmBM9feqRAbDRl4j4uA8BC2Tn-LDxpSSWgUeyzPIjcmhxLufk4YYQFfLMsKsfPVwDXSZ1WVBN2jNpmjeFOpjubCWf8n1W3x7eeeG~LmvKqeTCX1on2EaBIF2mko8BVnYAGj~KHZ0bzx312SJt5yEZa~XtKzwFhqMOtO~1~bgiLTspJrymDbkUURFlmEXWA-FXIyJH-d4C4bAF83WUNp1gd95oIbVOgOazS6ElzvfXhtYRT41Ja8xoG5H5g__\u0026Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA"}],"slug":"Gender_Equality_in_Africa","translated_slug":"","page_count":3,"language":"en","content_type":"Work","owner":{"id":96557121,"first_name":"Martina","middle_initials":null,"last_name":"Odonkor","page_name":"MartinaOdonkor","domain_name":"lancaster","created_at":"2018-11-03T05:51:07.655-07:00","display_name":"Martina Odonkor","url":"https://lancaster.academia.edu/MartinaOdonkor"},"attachments":[{"id":58079892,"title":"","file_type":"pdf","scribd_thumbnail_url":"https://attachments.academia-assets.com/58079892/thumbnails/1.jpg","file_name":"Gender_equality_in_Africa.pdf","download_url":"https://www.academia.edu/attachments/58079892/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&","bulk_download_file_name":"Gender_Equality_in_Africa.pdf","bulk_download_url":"https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/58079892/Gender_equality_in_Africa-libre.pdf?1546072639=\u0026response-content-disposition=attachment%3B+filename%3DGender_Equality_in_Africa.pdf\u0026Expires=1732403240\u0026Signature=YybXi5mF27wZwkYHBORLMB8hF1RX6b5~sxhzh5mDUYLnYP8D7NQZkHsSo4oAjOuAZj59oyZXCe1AVaj2K-QtDAYY88XBHmBM9feqRAbDRl4j4uA8BC2Tn-LDxpSSWgUeyzPIjcmhxLufk4YYQFfLMsKsfPVwDXSZ1WVBN2jNpmjeFOpjubCWf8n1W3x7eeeG~LmvKqeTCX1on2EaBIF2mko8BVnYAGj~KHZ0bzx312SJt5yEZa~XtKzwFhqMOtO~1~bgiLTspJrymDbkUURFlmEXWA-FXIyJH-d4C4bAF83WUNp1gd95oIbVOgOazS6ElzvfXhtYRT41Ja8xoG5H5g__\u0026Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA"}],"research_interests":[{"id":379,"name":"African Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/African_Studies"},{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies"},{"id":977,"name":"Development Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Development_Studies"},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies"},{"id":4527,"name":"Africa","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Africa"},{"id":4714,"name":"Sexuality","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sexuality"},{"id":4917,"name":"Gender and Sexuality","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_and_Sexuality"},{"id":7024,"name":"Gender","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender"}],"urls":[]}, dispatcherData: dispatcherData }); $(this).data('initialized', true); } }); $a.trackClickSource(".js-work-strip-work-link", "profile_work_strip") }); </script> <div class="js-work-strip profile--work_container" data-work-id="37695171"><div class="profile--work_thumbnail hidden-xs"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-thumbnail" href="https://www.academia.edu/37695171/Kente_in_the_21_st_century"><img alt="Research paper thumbnail of Kente in the 21 st century" class="work-thumbnail" src="https://attachments.academia-assets.com/57686504/thumbnails/1.jpg" /></a></div><div class="wp-workCard wp-workCard_itemContainer"><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--title"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link text-gray-darker" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-title" href="https://www.academia.edu/37695171/Kente_in_the_21_st_century">Kente in the 21 st century</a></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span class="js-work-more-abstract-truncated">Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical...</span><a class="js-work-more-abstract" data-broccoli-component="work_strip.more_abstract" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-more-abstract" href="javascript:;"><span> more </span><span><i class="fa fa-caret-down"></i></span></a><span class="js-work-more-abstract-untruncated hidden">Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. While production of the original, strip-woven textile remains a labour-intensive cottage industry, cloth with machine-printed kente designs is being mass-produced,</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--actions"><span class="work-strip-bookmark-button-container"></span><a id="574c0ab42c97d7395ce800f3e1f39d98" class="wp-workCard--action" rel="nofollow" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-download" data-download="{"attachment_id":57686504,"asset_id":37695171,"asset_type":"Work","button_location":"profile"}" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57686504/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=profile"><span><i class="fa fa-arrow-down"></i></span><span>Download</span></a><span class="wp-workCard--action visible-if-viewed-by-owner inline-block" style="display: none;"><span class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper" data-work-id="37695171"><a class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button" tabindex="0"><span><i class="fa fa-pencil"></i></span><span>Edit</span></a></span></span><span id="work-strip-rankings-button-container"></span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--stats"><span><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="37695171"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695171; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695171]").text(description); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695171]").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span></span><span><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695171; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-work-strip[data-work-id='37695171']"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></span><span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 37695171, container: "", }); });</script></span></div><div id="work-strip-premium-row-container"></div></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/wow_profile-f77ea15d77ce96025a6048a514272ad8becbad23c641fc2b3bd6e24ca6ff1932.js","https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/work_edit-ad038b8c047c1a8d4fa01b402d530ff93c45fee2137a149a4a5398bc8ad67560.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb var dispatcherData = {} if (true){ window.WowProfile.dispatcher = window.WowProfile.dispatcher || _.clone(Backbone.Events); dispatcherData = { dispatcher: window.WowProfile.dispatcher, downloadLinkId: "574c0ab42c97d7395ce800f3e1f39d98" } } $('.js-work-strip[data-work-id=37695171]').each(function() { if (!$(this).data('initialized')) { new WowProfile.WorkStripView({ el: this, workJSON: {"id":37695171,"title":"Kente in the 21 st century","translated_title":"","metadata":{"abstract":"Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. While production of the original, strip-woven textile remains a labour-intensive cottage industry, cloth with machine-printed kente designs is being mass-produced,"},"translated_abstract":"Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. While production of the original, strip-woven textile remains a labour-intensive cottage industry, cloth with machine-printed kente designs is being mass-produced,","internal_url":"https://www.academia.edu/37695171/Kente_in_the_21_st_century","translated_internal_url":"","created_at":"2018-11-03T06:21:26.598-07:00","preview_url":null,"current_user_can_edit":null,"current_user_is_owner":null,"owner_id":96557121,"coauthors_can_edit":true,"document_type":"paper","co_author_tags":[],"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":57686504,"title":"","file_type":"docx","scribd_thumbnail_url":"https://attachments.academia-assets.com/57686504/thumbnails/1.jpg","file_name":"Kente_in_the_21st_century.docx","download_url":"https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57686504/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&","bulk_download_file_name":"Kente_in_the_21_st_century.docx","bulk_download_url":"https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/57686504/Kente_in_the_21st_century.docx?1541251281=\u0026response-content-disposition=attachment%3B+filename%3DKente_in_the_21_st_century.docx\u0026Expires=1732403240\u0026Signature=etuzaz4jbHa0wAP1rSm~Wx6i-OOjUK-scxbtpB8eLOu9P0SbzQDYSVtyYdOY58sZglM-nXdEthaMBeiymoRCpVJ-OqxW-~hFysXSRJnOxGTgqK4UDuqX-rlKQOZmfaHb-620vATdmmdByrbV6aop~zzstMoNlcr1Ulrkn8Cm1Z7SBDmp5DVnuwD~AdgzYYK2L0S-CpTi5aDA0ejv9Whd1tNWeQ33PYBlrJqKY01XXgs8PHpXOhdgRe7G7po5WeVjjvtGfkGVepIkMFATfYkuHIogZU2p8aQjze5W26gOtTbn3vk92ZB5Ynv8ODfD72sv1LM8TM0JTiITwbEeq1PtpA__\u0026Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA"}],"slug":"Kente_in_the_21_st_century","translated_slug":"","page_count":2,"language":"en","content_type":"Work","owner":{"id":96557121,"first_name":"Martina","middle_initials":null,"last_name":"Odonkor","page_name":"MartinaOdonkor","domain_name":"lancaster","created_at":"2018-11-03T05:51:07.655-07:00","display_name":"Martina Odonkor","url":"https://lancaster.academia.edu/MartinaOdonkor"},"attachments":[{"id":57686504,"title":"","file_type":"docx","scribd_thumbnail_url":"https://attachments.academia-assets.com/57686504/thumbnails/1.jpg","file_name":"Kente_in_the_21st_century.docx","download_url":"https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57686504/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&","bulk_download_file_name":"Kente_in_the_21_st_century.docx","bulk_download_url":"https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/57686504/Kente_in_the_21st_century.docx?1541251281=\u0026response-content-disposition=attachment%3B+filename%3DKente_in_the_21_st_century.docx\u0026Expires=1732403240\u0026Signature=etuzaz4jbHa0wAP1rSm~Wx6i-OOjUK-scxbtpB8eLOu9P0SbzQDYSVtyYdOY58sZglM-nXdEthaMBeiymoRCpVJ-OqxW-~hFysXSRJnOxGTgqK4UDuqX-rlKQOZmfaHb-620vATdmmdByrbV6aop~zzstMoNlcr1Ulrkn8Cm1Z7SBDmp5DVnuwD~AdgzYYK2L0S-CpTi5aDA0ejv9Whd1tNWeQ33PYBlrJqKY01XXgs8PHpXOhdgRe7G7po5WeVjjvtGfkGVepIkMFATfYkuHIogZU2p8aQjze5W26gOtTbn3vk92ZB5Ynv8ODfD72sv1LM8TM0JTiITwbEeq1PtpA__\u0026Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA"}],"research_interests":[],"urls":[]}, dispatcherData: dispatcherData }); $(this).data('initialized', true); } }); $a.trackClickSource(".js-work-strip-work-link", "profile_work_strip") }); </script> <div class="js-work-strip profile--work_container" data-work-id="37695169"><div class="profile--work_thumbnail hidden-xs"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-thumbnail" href="https://www.academia.edu/37695169/Quality_or_Quantity_The_burning_question_about_Education_For_All"><img alt="Research paper thumbnail of Quality or Quantity? 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The burning question about 'Education For All'</a></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--actions"><span class="work-strip-bookmark-button-container"></span><a id="8cae5018940b9a332ed2eaa53bfff7c1" class="wp-workCard--action" rel="nofollow" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-download" data-download="{"attachment_id":57686497,"asset_id":37695169,"asset_type":"Work","button_location":"profile"}" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57686497/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=profile"><span><i class="fa fa-arrow-down"></i></span><span>Download</span></a><span class="wp-workCard--action visible-if-viewed-by-owner inline-block" style="display: none;"><span class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper" data-work-id="37695169"><a class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button" tabindex="0"><span><i class="fa fa-pencil"></i></span><span>Edit</span></a></span></span><span id="work-strip-rankings-button-container"></span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--stats"><span><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="37695169"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695169; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695169]").text(description); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695169]").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span></span><span><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695169; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-work-strip[data-work-id='37695169']"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></span><span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 37695169, container: "", }); });</script></span></div><div id="work-strip-premium-row-container"></div></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/wow_profile-f77ea15d77ce96025a6048a514272ad8becbad23c641fc2b3bd6e24ca6ff1932.js","https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/work_edit-ad038b8c047c1a8d4fa01b402d530ff93c45fee2137a149a4a5398bc8ad67560.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb var dispatcherData = {} if (true){ window.WowProfile.dispatcher = window.WowProfile.dispatcher || _.clone(Backbone.Events); dispatcherData = { dispatcher: window.WowProfile.dispatcher, downloadLinkId: "8cae5018940b9a332ed2eaa53bfff7c1" } } $('.js-work-strip[data-work-id=37695169]').each(function() { if (!$(this).data('initialized')) { new WowProfile.WorkStripView({ el: this, workJSON: {"id":37695169,"title":"Quality or Quantity? 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class="js-work-strip profile--work_container" data-work-id="38055115"><div class="profile--work_thumbnail hidden-xs"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-thumbnail" href="https://www.academia.edu/38055115/Gender_Equality_in_Africa"><img alt="Research paper thumbnail of Gender Equality in Africa" class="work-thumbnail" src="https://attachments.academia-assets.com/58079892/thumbnails/1.jpg" /></a></div><div class="wp-workCard wp-workCard_itemContainer"><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--title"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link text-gray-darker" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-title" href="https://www.academia.edu/38055115/Gender_Equality_in_Africa">Gender Equality in Africa</a></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span>Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine NG/FH 12/2013</span><span>, 2013</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span class="js-work-more-abstract-truncated">Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der ...</span><a class="js-work-more-abstract" data-broccoli-component="work_strip.more_abstract" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-more-abstract" href="javascript:;"><span> more </span><span><i class="fa fa-caret-down"></i></span></a><span class="js-work-more-abstract-untruncated hidden">Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der Geschlechter 8/11/13 As a woman and a researcher into gender among other development issues, I was pleased to read in this year's Millennium Development Goals report for Africa, that "Progress on Goal 3 (Promote Gender Equality and Empower Women) is encouraging, with many countries achieving outstanding performance, especially on gender parity in primary school and on the number of seats women hold in national parliaments." Indeed, when it comes to policy and legislation, some consider the women's movement to have been the most successful social movement in Africa in recent decades. For the first time in history, The African Union has a female chair and there are female heads of state in two countries, Malawi and Liberia. In early September, Senegal elected its first female prime minister and the cherry on the icing came just a couple of weeks later, when Rwanda increased its female majority in government with women winning 64% of parliamentary seats. Since 2008, this small nation whose name became synonymous with genocide barely two decades ago, has had the only government in the world dominated by women, at the helm of a rapidly expanding economy. Hard-won progress is always music to the ears, but much as I like to dwell on the positive, I was stopped dead in my tracks by two news reports of a very different kind in recent weeks. The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, "because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts." I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. When they were taken to the police, they ordered them to cut grass around the police station in lieu of initiating official prosecution. What stuck in my mind was the symbolism of the dumping of the girl's violated body in a latrine and the impunity conferred on the criminal act by the male would-be enforcers of the law. The complexity of the issue of gender equality in Africa is demonstrated by the fact that the country with the world's highest and most violent rate of rape and sexual offences also has one of the highest rates of women's representation on the continent and in the world. Just under 50% of parliamentary seats in South Africa's government are held by women and yet, one in three South African women is likely</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--actions"><span class="work-strip-bookmark-button-container"></span><a id="ab13437f1b2363ba7f67b93ca14f6539" class="wp-workCard--action" rel="nofollow" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-download" data-download="{"attachment_id":58079892,"asset_id":38055115,"asset_type":"Work","button_location":"profile"}" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/58079892/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=profile"><span><i class="fa fa-arrow-down"></i></span><span>Download</span></a><span class="wp-workCard--action visible-if-viewed-by-owner inline-block" style="display: none;"><span class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper" data-work-id="38055115"><a class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button" tabindex="0"><span><i class="fa fa-pencil"></i></span><span>Edit</span></a></span></span><span id="work-strip-rankings-button-container"></span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--stats"><span><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="38055115"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38055115; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=38055115]").text(description); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=38055115]").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span></span><span><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38055115; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-work-strip[data-work-id='38055115']"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></span><span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 38055115, container: "", }); });</script></span></div><div id="work-strip-premium-row-container"></div></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/wow_profile-f77ea15d77ce96025a6048a514272ad8becbad23c641fc2b3bd6e24ca6ff1932.js","https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/work_edit-ad038b8c047c1a8d4fa01b402d530ff93c45fee2137a149a4a5398bc8ad67560.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb var dispatcherData = {} if (true){ window.WowProfile.dispatcher = window.WowProfile.dispatcher || _.clone(Backbone.Events); dispatcherData = { dispatcher: window.WowProfile.dispatcher, downloadLinkId: "ab13437f1b2363ba7f67b93ca14f6539" } } $('.js-work-strip[data-work-id=38055115]').each(function() { if (!$(this).data('initialized')) { new WowProfile.WorkStripView({ el: this, workJSON: {"id":38055115,"title":"Gender Equality in Africa","translated_title":"","metadata":{"abstract":"Article for Friederich Ebert Stiftung Magazine Artikel für NG/FH 12/2013: Die Gleichstellung der Geschlechter 8/11/13 As a woman and a researcher into gender among other development issues, I was pleased to read in this year's Millennium Development Goals report for Africa, that \"Progress on Goal 3 (Promote Gender Equality and Empower Women) is encouraging, with many countries achieving outstanding performance, especially on gender parity in primary school and on the number of seats women hold in national parliaments.\" Indeed, when it comes to policy and legislation, some consider the women's movement to have been the most successful social movement in Africa in recent decades. For the first time in history, The African Union has a female chair and there are female heads of state in two countries, Malawi and Liberia. In early September, Senegal elected its first female prime minister and the cherry on the icing came just a couple of weeks later, when Rwanda increased its female majority in government with women winning 64% of parliamentary seats. Since 2008, this small nation whose name became synonymous with genocide barely two decades ago, has had the only government in the world dominated by women, at the helm of a rapidly expanding economy. Hard-won progress is always music to the ears, but much as I like to dwell on the positive, I was stopped dead in my tracks by two news reports of a very different kind in recent weeks. The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, \"because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts.\" I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. 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The first was when I was woken one morning by the voice of a senior Gambian Muslim cleric on my radio alarm, saying (in an extract from a BBC Newsnight interview) that genital mutilation is good for women, \"because I know that women who have a clitoris suffer from an irritating itching. They want to scratch it all the time and what's more, it makes women leak water from their private parts.\" I lay in a daze, wondering whether I was really awake or in the grip of a bizarre nightmare in which a powerful individual could condemn females within his sphere of influence to a gruesome, criminal act of mutilation on the premise of his spurious notions about an anatomical feature he did not and never would possess. I heard the second report a month later. A 16-year old girl in Kenya had been gang-raped by six men who threw her unconscious body into a pit latrine, breaking her spine. 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$(this).data('initialized', true); } }); $a.trackClickSource(".js-work-strip-work-link", "profile_work_strip") }); </script> <div class="js-work-strip profile--work_container" data-work-id="37695171"><div class="profile--work_thumbnail hidden-xs"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-thumbnail" href="https://www.academia.edu/37695171/Kente_in_the_21_st_century"><img alt="Research paper thumbnail of Kente in the 21 st century" class="work-thumbnail" src="https://attachments.academia-assets.com/57686504/thumbnails/1.jpg" /></a></div><div class="wp-workCard wp-workCard_itemContainer"><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--title"><a class="js-work-strip-work-link text-gray-darker" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-title" href="https://www.academia.edu/37695171/Kente_in_the_21_st_century">Kente in the 21 st century</a></div><div class="wp-workCard_item"><span class="js-work-more-abstract-truncated">Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical...</span><a class="js-work-more-abstract" data-broccoli-component="work_strip.more_abstract" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-more-abstract" href="javascript:;"><span> more </span><span><i class="fa fa-caret-down"></i></span></a><span class="js-work-more-abstract-untruncated hidden">Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. While production of the original, strip-woven textile remains a labour-intensive cottage industry, cloth with machine-printed kente designs is being mass-produced,</span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--actions"><span class="work-strip-bookmark-button-container"></span><a id="574c0ab42c97d7395ce800f3e1f39d98" class="wp-workCard--action" rel="nofollow" data-click-track="profile-work-strip-download" data-download="{"attachment_id":57686504,"asset_id":37695171,"asset_type":"Work","button_location":"profile"}" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57686504/download_file?st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&st=MTczMjM5OTY0MCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=profile"><span><i class="fa fa-arrow-down"></i></span><span>Download</span></a><span class="wp-workCard--action visible-if-viewed-by-owner inline-block" style="display: none;"><span class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper profile-work-strip-edit-button-wrapper" data-work-id="37695171"><a class="js-profile-work-strip-edit-button" tabindex="0"><span><i class="fa fa-pencil"></i></span><span>Edit</span></a></span></span><span id="work-strip-rankings-button-container"></span></div><div class="wp-workCard_item wp-workCard--stats"><span><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="37695171"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695171; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695171]").text(description); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37695171]").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span></span><span><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37695171; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-work-strip[data-work-id='37695171']"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></span><span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 37695171, container: "", }); });</script></span></div><div id="work-strip-premium-row-container"></div></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/wow_profile-f77ea15d77ce96025a6048a514272ad8becbad23c641fc2b3bd6e24ca6ff1932.js","https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/work_edit-ad038b8c047c1a8d4fa01b402d530ff93c45fee2137a149a4a5398bc8ad67560.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb var dispatcherData = {} if (true){ window.WowProfile.dispatcher = window.WowProfile.dispatcher || _.clone(Backbone.Events); dispatcherData = { dispatcher: window.WowProfile.dispatcher, downloadLinkId: "574c0ab42c97d7395ce800f3e1f39d98" } } $('.js-work-strip[data-work-id=37695171]').each(function() { if (!$(this).data('initialized')) { new WowProfile.WorkStripView({ el: this, workJSON: {"id":37695171,"title":"Kente in the 21 st century","translated_title":"","metadata":{"abstract":"Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. While production of the original, strip-woven textile remains a labour-intensive cottage industry, cloth with machine-printed kente designs is being mass-produced,"},"translated_abstract":"Ask a non-Ghanaian if they know 'kente' and they might say no but describe it – those geometrical patterns full of red and gold and green and blue and… oh yes! of course, that one – that 'African' design you see all over the place. Sure. In the 21 st century, kente patterns are so globalized that they are just as likely to turn up on umbrellas or gift-wrap as on cloth. But it is in cloth that they have their origin and in a textile tradition that spans centuries and reaches well beyond Ghana's borders. Indeed, given its far-flung historical influences and its variety of incarnations, defining kente might seem a daunting task however, based on relevant literature and the general outlook of Ghanaians on this topic, it is safe to say that the term 'kente cloth' applies quite specifically to strip-weaving of the past three centuries by the Ewe and Asante people of Ghana. Which of the two wove it first is a question guaranteed to spark off a mini-riot at any multi-ethnic gathering. Textile historians have not yet been able to disentangle the two weaving traditions well enough to answer one way or another but what is certain is that although cloths defined as kente existed prior to the transAtlantic trade, it was during this time that the industry enjoyed its most rapid phase of development and produced the luxurious and colourful designs that are its trademark today. In particular, the rise of the Asante kingdom in the late 17 th century and its need for symbols of prestige and nobility led to the founding of a royal enclave of weavers who departed from the plainer weaves and limited colours of earlier times. This was facilitated by the influx of coloured threads brought in by European traders. Previously, cloths had been woven in their natural cotton hues and the only dye available was indigo. Now, weavers in the Asante court (who, mark you, may not necessarily all have been Asantes) had a rainbow of colours at their disposal and such was their resourcefulness that they even unraveled traded silk and cotton cloths to incorporate their yarns into the elite new 'kente' that was second only to gold in prestige. Although these multicoloured , geometrical designs are now the global image of kente, they are only one type and do not fully represent the rich variety of styles woven in Ghana. They are, however, a legacy of the heyday of the craft when royal patronage made it possible for weavers to attain a quality that can ill be matched today. In modern times, economic pressure and competition from the mechanized textile industry are only some of the challenges faced by kente weavers. The old patterns that were once fiercely guarded for the exclusive use of the Asante king and selected royals, have ironically fallen between the cracks of copyright legislation and are now at the disposal of all and sundry including multinational giants like Coca-Cola, for advertising purposes. Only new designs may be copyrighted and that at a price that is unaffordable for most weavers. 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