CINXE.COM

Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man

<!DOCTYPE html><html lang="en-GB" class="no-js core o-typography--loading-sans o-typography--loading-sans-bold o-typography--loading-display o-typography--loading-display-bold" data-o-component="o-typography" style="overflow-x:hidden;background-color:#fff1e5;color:#33302e"><head><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><title>Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man</title><meta name="description" content="A safari in the country’s far north tracks back 1.6 million years to the roots of humanity"/><link rel="canonical" href="https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"/><meta name="robots" content="index,follow,max-snippet:200,max-image-preview:large"/><meta name="google-site-verification" content="4-t8sFaPvpO5FH_Gnw1dkM28CQepjzo8UjjAkdDflTw"/><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man","datePublished":"2024-11-16T05:00:47.806Z","dateModified":"2024-11-18T09:37:57.000Z","description":"A safari in the country’s far north tracks back 1.6 million years to the roots of humanity","isAccessibleForFree":"True","isPartOf":{"@type":["CreativeWork","Product"],"name":"Financial Times","productID":"ft.com:free"},"alternativeHeadline":"Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","@context":"http://schema.org","url":"https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb62fb540-2e36-4f74-a503-fed7e197bd19.jpg?source=next-article&fit=scale-down&quality=highest&width=700&dpr=1","width":2400,"height":1350},"author":[{"@type":"Person","@context":"http://schema.org","name":"David Pilling","url":"https://www.ft.com/david-pilling","worksFor":{"@type":"Organization","@context":"http://schema.org","name":"Financial Times","legalName":"The Financial Times Ltd.","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","@context":"http://schema.org","url":"https://im.ft-static.com/m/img/masthead_main.jpg","width":435,"height":36},"url":"https://www.ft.com","sameAs":["https://www.twitter.com/FT","https://www.facebook.com/financialtimes","https://www.linkedin.com/company/financial-times","https://www.youtube.com/user/FinancialTimesVideos","https://www.instagram.com/financialtimes"]}}],"articleBody":"To the Turkana people it is Anam Ka’alakol, the Sea of Many Fish. To most Kenyans it is Lake Turkana, the world’s largest desert lake, in the badlands of the northern frontier. To generations of hominid fossil hunters, it is simply where it all began.\n\nPicture the Mediterranean transplanted to a Martian landscape, and you’ll get an inkling of the intense, brooding beauty of Lake Turkana, whipped by winds, pounded by a jack-hammer sun and bounded by folds of pink volcanic rock. At 250km long and a spindly 30km wide, the lake lances like a jade spear through the parched north-lands of Kenya, its northern tip stabbing into Ethiopia.\n\nIn this brutal landscape, scattered communities survive on cattle, camels and goats, or Nile perch pulled from the lake’s crocodile-studded waters. Pastoralists move about it, not always in harmony, since many believe God bestowed all the world’s cows on them, a set of convictions with predictably unfortunate results. Turkana and Samburu rub shoulders uneasily on the lake’s southern fringes; there are Borana, Gabra, Rendille and, a little further afield, the Pokot, with their fierce reputation for banditry.\n\nIt is on Lake Turkana’s ancient shores that successive generations of paleoanthropologists have unearthed some of the most compelling evidence of our common ancestry. In 1984, the Kenyan fossil hunter Kamoya Kimeu spotted what turned out to be “Turkana Boy”, the near-complete fossil of a juvenile Homo erectus whose life was cut short some 1.6 million years ago on what was then the lake’s western shore. In 2011, archaeologists took a wrong turn in the desert, only to stumble upon stone tools made 3.3 million years ago by our hominin ancestors – 700,000 years earlier than previously thought. Nature magazine called it “The Dawn of Technology”.\n\nMy trip begins with a bit of late-stage technology: a De Havilland Dash 8 prop plane that flies me, on a rare visit for a non-scientist, to the Turkana Basin Institute (TBI). The brainchild of the late Richard Leakey, who with his wife Meave and Kenyans like Kimeu were part of a world-famous fossil-hunting collective known as “the Hominid Gang”, the institute is a research centre, not a tourist destination. My visit, including a night’s stay, was finagled by Africa fixers Journeys by Design, whose founder, Will Jones, has developed a fascination with what he calls the “human journey”, from our early ancestors through to modern-day cultures, and an ambition to build a travel offering around it.\n\nJones also organises trips to Chad, where the earliest hominid skull, six to seven million years old, was found; and Ethiopia, where the discovery in 1974 of Lucy, a 3.2 million-year-old female Australopithecus afarensis, upended the world of palaeontology. If your idea of a holiday is visiting old relatives, Jones is your man.\n\nThe Dash 8 flies nearly two hours north from Nairobi’s Wilson airport, leaving behind the familiar green of savannah and landing in Lodwar, in the rock and sand of the north. It feels not so much like a different country as a different planet. We rattle 40 minutes along desert roads past scattered manyattas – villages of domed huts shaped like Baci chocolates, only covered in straw and rainproof polythene instead of silver foil. Small children wander lackadaisically behind herds of goats.\n\nThe squat buildings of the institute, the biggest structures for miles, sit on a dramatic rocky bend of the mud-brown Turkwel river, which oozes into Lake Turkana’s western shore. It’s one of three rivers that feed the saline lake; the biggest, the mighty Omo, roars down from Ethiopia. With no outflow, the only escape is evaporation; the trapped water has an end-of-earth feel.\n\nI am met by Christine Atabo, TBI’s collections supervisor, a shy but confident 31-year-old. As a girl born into a polygamous, semi-nomadic Turkana family, school was never an option. But she went anyway. “We didn’t have electricity, we didn’t have mattresses and we didn’t have good utensils, just wooden ones crafted by my mother,” she says. “I wanted to taste the goodness that education brings to people.” She would trace letters in the sand, copied from borrowed textbooks. One day, she sneaked off to class. She advanced rapidly, going on to high school and eventually to university; she now oversees the fossil collection at TBI’s Turkwel campus and liaises with the Turkana community, who can be suspicious of the institute’s penchant for digging up dead bodies.\n\nThat night, I sleep out on the veranda. An orange sun smudges the horizon; as the birds stop clattering on the tin roof, a delicious breeze, sent by the lake, whips up like air conditioning. I drift off watching my mosquito net fluttering in the moonlight.\n\nThe next day Atabo shows me around the fossil collection – a large, half-lit room with rows of stacked wooden boxes arranged by geological era, which I quickly take to thinking of as the “bone library”. At the back is the Cretaceous-period section, from 145 million to 66 million years ago. She casually removes the lid of one box to expose the upper jawbone of a carnivorous dinosaur known as an Abelisaurid. I spend the next hour, like a child in an app store, browsing labels and opening boxes: a hyrax from the Oligocene (34 to 23 million years ago), a hippopotamus skull from the Pleistocene (2.6 million to 11,700 years ago) and a modern-day python skeleton as thick as my arm. Next door Simon Eporon, a technician from the Turkana community, uses a pencil-lead-thin drill to uncover the fossil of an Ice Age giraffe tooth.\n\nScientists from universities associated with TBI, many of whom have built careers on particular dig sites, return each year to refresh their search. Francis Ekai often accompanies them. He is so adept at finding fossils they call him “the human GPS”.\n\nBefore we take off for our next destination, Atabo shows me one of Lake Turkana’s most startling secrets. In 2012, archaeologists excavated the site of what they believed was 10,000-year-old evidence of a massacre – among the earliest ever recorded. Inside a box is a crushed skull, the remains of one of 27 people who suffered a  violent death. Another has an arrow head embedded in its cranium. Scientists say the mass grave suggests that forager-hunters engaged in warfare, lending credence to the argument that war is in our DNA, not a social consequence of hierarchies and territorial disputes.\n\n“It’s the way the Turkana and the Pokot fight now,” says Atabo of the perpetual struggle over cattle. “You cannot sleep today if someone was killed yesterday. We will just go and get revenge.”\n\nThe flight across the southern tip of Lake Turkana to the South Horr valley is spectacular. We pass initially over a terrain veined by dry river beds and speckled by village compounds; then, some 20 minutes in, we start bouncing on thermals as we traverse grooved mountains like brains made of rock. On the right side of the tiny Cessna is a Mars-scape; on the left, the blue-green of Lake Turkana. Black lava has spewed across the desert floor and emerald-green waters pool. Mud oozes. It is not hard to imagine this cauldron as the crucible of life.\n\nWe are met by Amory Macleod, a member of one of Kenya’s most famous safari families. With his partner Karina Jessop, he oversaw the rebuilding of Koros Camp, a hospitable and quietly luxurious bolthole in this inhospitable wonderland. After a tour of the camp – clean lines, adobe-walled rooms and decluttered interiors that would have Marie Kondo scratching her head – we lurch off on quad bikes along the dried-up river bed. There’s something wrong about hurtling in fifth gear towards a gin-and-tonic sundowner past loping camels and waving children, though no doubt I’ll get over it.\n\nWe spend that night not at Koros, but in a satellite fly camp. Apparently some guests are nervous about sleeping in “the bush”, but the experience is so cosseted and choreographed – more braised Mediterranean fennel, anyone? – that only the most skittish has anything to worry about. After a nightcap by the fire and an enamel pail of hot water brought tentside, we retire to pod-like mosquito-net tents mounted on six-legged cots.\n\nA Land Cruiser speeds us towards the lake shore the next morning. We pass Africa’s biggest wind farm, installed, appropriately, in one of its windiest spots. Ranks of turbines crank round, producing electricity to be transmitted south. There’s a surreal quality to the gleaming-white structures, like upended jet planes impaled into the ground, made weirder still by the trains of camels plodding beneath the whirring propellers.\n\nFurther on, closer to the lake, are Turkana villages. There’s no sign of running water, let alone the electricity being cranked out nearby. Women sit cross-legged pounding rocks, apparently for the walls of a government school being built on the shore.\n\nThe water is mirror-flat, though Macleod warns that winds whip up in an instant, turning the lake into a choppy hazard. We spend a while fossil-hunting on the rocky beach, uncovering ink-black shards that, according to Macleod, are million-year-old fish bones. Admittedly not the Missing Link, but not bad for half an hour’s beachcombing. Across the water, on the volcanic rocks off South Island, Nile crocodiles lounge with prehistoric menace, easing into the lake where they lie smiling beneath the surface. As we head back, the wind picks up and the boat slams from stubby wave to wave. I’m just recovering my land legs when we’re ushered into a helicopter that hurtles off, doors open for added adrenaline, for a tight circle around Nabuyatom, a spectacular inverted volcanic cone.\n\nThe pilot lands with pinpoint precision on the floor of a rock-strewn valley and leads us for a few minutes to a slabby escarpment whose stones have slid down over the aeons into a cracked mosaic. There, etched into the rock, are unmistakeable depictions of giraffes, made 1,500 years ago by people who must have lived here when large animals were common. Today, little game remains. The last rhino was poached several years ago. That night I wake to the clatter of the ceiling fan, confused as to whether it’s a wind turbine or the blade of a helicopter.\n\nFor our final stop we fly south, leaving Turkana County and moving into Samburuland. The terrain is greener, if hardly lush. To find water, the Samburu dig into the dry riverbeds in ceremonies known as “singing wells”. The Samburu are closely related to the Maasai, the Turkana and the Pokot, all Nilotic peoples who moved south from Sudan and Ethiopia over several hundred years. Like squabbling brothers, they are locked in cycles of cattle raid and counter-raid. In 2021, Kenyan media reported 14 people dead in just one incident.\n\nTwo Samburu warriors, dressed in beads and bright kikoi skirts, their torsos naked, meet us at the airstrip. They introduce themselves as “Daniel” and “Joel”, though it transpires they are really called Legalgoroule and Loltienya, names deemed too tricky for the tourist tongue.\n\nKalepo Camp charges guests a conservancy fee of $150 per night, of which 57 per cent goes to the community and 38 per cent to anti-poaching. Safari veterans Robert and Storm Mason, who opened Kalepo in late 2020, spent time running a luxury hotel in India, and it shows. Echoes of the Raj include a beige canvas camp, manicured lawn and brass fittings. All that’s missing are the polo horses. We dine at a theatrically set table under the moonlight on the sandy riverbed – a chicken curry, replete with Indian breads and chutneys. Elephants often gather at the nearby watering hole while guests quaff sauvignon blanc, but tonight the elephant in the room is that there are no elephants; it has recently rained, and evidently there is plenty of water to be had elsewhere.\n\nNext morning, we leave at 6am for a nearby Samburu village. Each of the 20 or so huts is surrounded by a fence; gates are always situated on the north and south of the homestead, symbolic of the Samburu’s march southwards along the River Nile. The houses are arranged in order of seniority, starting with the elder and his wives. Joel launches into an explanation of burial procedures: babies apparently are interred inside the boma with the goats, a grandmother gets eternal rest with the cows and younger people are buried outside the homestead. Warriors – young men who have been circumcised but cannot yet marry – don’t get buried at all. Unless they die in a cattle raid, their deaths are considered a curse, Joel says. Their bodies are laid out in the open, their heads on a wooden pillow, left for scavenging hyenas.\n\nIt sounds far-fetched, but Robert had told me the same story. A year ago, he said, a warrior had been deposited behind a nearby village. I had a vision of guests settling down to tea and scones at Kalepo while nearby hyenas tucked into something more substantial.\n\nDaniel tells me how he got an education – the result of banishment from his house after he mislaid three of his father’s goats. Released from parental oversight, like Atabo at the Turkana institute, he found himself in a school where he excelled, mastering English. He now pays for his youngest sibling’s schooling.\n\nUnlike Atabo, who has made a break with her Turkana heritage, Daniel, it strikes me, is an avatar of himself, an interpreter of his culture for foreign visitors. He owns goats, went through the circumcision ritual and professes a dislike for Turkana, who are not circumcised. On the other hand, he now eats vegetables – he didn’t even see one until he was eight, he claims – and wants to buy a professional camera so he can become an Instagram celebrity. “Because of education, our culture is dying,” he tells me. Whether he says so with regret or satisfaction is hard to tell.\n\nDavid Pilling travelled as a guest of Journeys By Design; a private five-night journey to Lake Turkana and the northern deserts costs from $10,835 per person including private charter aircraft and private use of Kalepo and the Koros fly camps. A separate donation is made to Turkana Basin Institute","wordCount":2444,"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","@context":"http://schema.org","name":"Financial Times","legalName":"The Financial Times Ltd.","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","@context":"http://schema.org","url":"https://im.ft-static.com/m/img/masthead_main.jpg","width":435,"height":36},"url":"https://www.ft.com","sameAs":["https://www.twitter.com/FT","https://www.facebook.com/financialtimes","https://www.linkedin.com/company/financial-times","https://www.youtube.com/user/FinancialTimesVideos","https://www.instagram.com/financialtimes"]}}</script><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Life & Arts","item":"https://www.ft.com/life-arts"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"Adventure holidays","item":"https://www.ft.com/adventure-holidays"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":3,"name":"Travel","item":"https://www.ft.com/travel"}]}</script><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"WebSite","name":"Financial Times","alternateName":"FT.com","url":"http://www.ft.com"}</script><meta property="fb:pages" content="8860325749"/><meta property="twitter:site" content="@FinancialTimes"/><meta property="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta property="og:title" content="Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man"/><meta property="og:description" content="A safari in the country’s far north tracks back 1.6 million years to the roots of humanity"/><meta property="og:image" content="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb62fb540-2e36-4f74-a503-fed7e197bd19.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1"/><meta property="og:url" content="https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"/><meta property="og:type" content="article"/><meta property="article:published_time" content="2024-11-16T05:00:47.806Z"/><meta property="article:modified_time" content="2024-11-16T05:00:47.806Z"/><meta property="article:author" content="David Pilling"/><meta property="article:tag" content="Feature"/><meta property="article:tag" content="HTSI"/><meta name="apple-itunes-app" content="app-id=1200842933, app-argument=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"/><link rel="icon" type="image/svg+xml" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftlogo-v1%3Abrand-ft-logo-square-coloured?source=update-logos&amp;format=svg"/><link rel="alternate icon" type="image/png" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftlogo-v1%3Abrand-ft-logo-square-coloured?source=update-logos&amp;format=png&amp;width=32&amp;height=32" sizes="32x32"/><link rel="alternate icon" type="image/png" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftlogo-v1%3Abrand-ft-logo-square-coloured?source=update-logos&amp;format=png&amp;width=194&amp;height=194" sizes="194x194"/><link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftlogo-v1%3Abrand-ft-logo-square-coloured?source=update-logos&amp;format=png&amp;width=180&amp;height=180" sizes="180x180"/><link rel="manifest" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/creatives/manifest/manifest-v6.json"/><script> !function(e,n,t,i,o,r){function c(e){if("number"!=typeof e)return e;var n=new Date;return new Date(n.getTime()+1e3*e)}var a=4e3,s="xnpe_async_hide";function p(e){return e.reduce((function(e,n){return e[n]=function(){e._.push([n.toString(),arguments])},e}),{_:[]})}function m(e,n,t){var i=t.createElement(n);i.src=e;var o=t.getElementsByTagName(n)[0];return o.parentNode.insertBefore(i,o),i}function u(e){return"[object Date]"===Object.prototype.toString.call(e)}r.target=r.target,r.file_path=r.file_path||r.target+"/js/exponea.min.js",o[n]=p(["anonymize","initialize","identify","update","track","trackLink","trackEnhancedEcommerce","getHtml","showHtml","showBanner","showWebLayer","ping","getAbTest","loadDependency","getRecommendation","reloadWebLayers"]),o[n].notifications=p(["isAvailable","isSubscribed","subscribe","unsubscribe"]),o[n]["snippetVersion"]="v2.3.0",function(e,n,t){e[n]["_"+t]={},e[n]["_"+t].nowFn=Date.now,e[n]["_"+t].snippetStartTime=e[n]["_"+t].nowFn()}(o,n,"performance"),function(e,n,t,i,o,r){e[o]={sdk:e[i],sdkObjectName:i,skipExperiments:!!t.new_experiments,sign:t.token+"/"+(r.exec(n.cookie)||["","new"])[1],path:t.target}}(o,e,r,n,i,RegExp("__exponea_etc__"+"=([\w-]+)")),function(e,n,t){m(e.file_path,n,t)}(r,t,e),function(e,n,t,i,o,r,p){if(e.new_experiments){!0===e.new_experiments&&(e.new_experiments={});var f,l=e.new_experiments.hide_class||s,_=e.new_experiments.timeout||a,d=encodeURIComponent(r.location.href.split("#")[0]);e.cookies&&e.cookies.expires&&("number"==typeof e.cookies.expires||u(e.cookies.expires)?f=c(e.cookies.expires):e.cookies.expires.tracking&&("number"==typeof e.cookies.expires.tracking||u(e.cookies.expires.tracking))&&(f=c(e.cookies.expires.tracking))),f&&f<new Date&&(f=void 0);var x=e.target+"/webxp/"+n+"/"+r[t].sign+"/modifications.min.js?http-referer="+d+"&timeout="+_+"ms"+(f?"&cookie-expires="+Math.floor(f.getTime()/1e3):"");"sync"===e.new_experiments.mode&&r.localStorage.getItem("__exponea__sync_modifications__")?function(e,n,t,i,o){t[o][n]="<"+n+' src="'+e+'"></'+n+">",i.writeln(t[o][n]),i.writeln("<"+n+">!"+o+".init && document.writeln("+o+"."+n+'.replace("/'+n+'/", "/'+n+'-async/").replace("><", " async><"))</'+n+">")}(x,n,r,p,t):function(e,n,t,i,o,r,c,a){r.documentElement.classList.add(e);var s=m(t,i,r);function p(){o[a].init||m(t.replace("/"+i+"/","/"+i+"-async/"),i,r)}function u(){r.documentElement.classList.remove(e)}s.onload=p,s.onerror=p,o.setTimeout(u,n),o[c]._revealPage=u}(l,_,x,n,r,p,o,t)}}(r,t,i,0,n,o,e),function(e,n,t){e[n].start=function(i){i&&Object.keys(i).forEach((function(e){return t[e]=i[e]})),e[n].initialize(t)}}(o,n,r)}(document,"exponea","script","webxpClient",window,{ target: 'https://bloomreach.ft.com', token: 'd6e5bd4c-9228-11eb-a414-9a67e462410e', }); </script><meta name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta name="twitter:image" content="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb62fb540-2e36-4f74-a503-fed7e197bd19.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://spoor-api.ft.com"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://session-next.ft.com" crossorigin="use-credentials"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://ads-api.ft.com"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/webpack-runtime.6ba01b962ecd.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/preact.26b65a981549.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/shared.volatile.1a6f79bd1d66.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-myft-ui.e8fb6ba854c0.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/page-kit-components.8e63a441c108.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-tracking.96255579bd65.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/shared.stable.869edaaf9df8.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-video.05fce4be6038.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-overlay.2e5b41b04f91.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-tooltip.d71bbec40c91.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-expander.96516cca2043.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-header.9a01b7e9fd99.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-date.78ccc5a6d4ab.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-viewport.26d2ea6ea104.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-toggle.02e52d783748.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/privacy-components.b814d0838b93.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-typography.175c5da7e8ac.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-share.a5222a5d7cf8.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-grid.3a60498625a1.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-footer.80a1922ff25b.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-utils.fcb47ada8316.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-table.0698287f312d.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-notification.a194fc356e20.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-scrollytelling-image.64b28cd8fbe0.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-audio.9f5609f087ec.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-errors.be3c3bdc0c01.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/scripts.bb1d02ede02f.bundle.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://consent-notice.ft.com/cmp.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="script" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/pg-ads/vendors/admiral-unblock.js" type="application/javascript"/><link rel="preload" as="font" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/build/v3/font?font_format=woff2&amp;font_name=MetricWeb-Regular&amp;system_code=origami&amp;version=1.12" type="font/woff2" crossorigin="anonymous"/><link rel="preload" as="font" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/build/v3/font?font_format=woff2&amp;font_name=MetricWeb-Semibold&amp;system_code=origami&amp;version=1.12" type="font/woff2" crossorigin="anonymous"/><link rel="preload" as="font" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/build/v3/font?font_format=woff2&amp;font_name=FinancierDisplayWeb-Regular&amp;system_code=origami&amp;version=1.12" type="font/woff2" crossorigin="anonymous"/><link rel="preload" as="font" href="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/build/v3/font?font_format=woff2&amp;font_name=FinancierDisplayWeb-Bold&amp;system_code=origami&amp;version=1.12" type="font/woff2" crossorigin="anonymous"/><script id="initial-props" type="application/json">{"mainConcepts":{"contentId":"84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e","focus":["a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2","abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873","06610896-2754-4847-a48f-9363d18a8c5e","9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1","0b83bc44-4a55-4958-882e-73ba6b2b0aa6"],"authorConcepts":[{"id":"10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0","prefLabel":"David Pilling","types":["http://www.ft.com/ontology/core/Thing","http://www.ft.com/ontology/concept/Concept","http://www.ft.com/ontology/person/Person"],"type":"PERSON","directType":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/person/Person","isPackageBrand":false,"predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/hasAuthor","url":"https://www.ft.com/david-pilling","relativeUrl":"/david-pilling","predicateName":"hasAuthor"}]}}</script><link rel="stylesheet" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/vendors~page-kit-layout-styles.88fbdf048167.css"/><link rel="stylesheet" href="https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/main.bb2d609744c7.css"/><script type="application/json" id="page-kit-bootstrap-config">{"trackErrors":true,"core":[],"enhanced":["https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/webpack-runtime.6ba01b962ecd.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/preact.26b65a981549.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/shared.volatile.1a6f79bd1d66.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-myft-ui.e8fb6ba854c0.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/page-kit-components.8e63a441c108.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-tracking.96255579bd65.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/shared.stable.869edaaf9df8.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-video.05fce4be6038.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-overlay.2e5b41b04f91.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-tooltip.d71bbec40c91.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-expander.96516cca2043.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-header.9a01b7e9fd99.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-date.78ccc5a6d4ab.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-viewport.26d2ea6ea104.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-toggle.02e52d783748.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/privacy-components.b814d0838b93.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-typography.175c5da7e8ac.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-share.a5222a5d7cf8.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-grid.3a60498625a1.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-footer.80a1922ff25b.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-utils.fcb47ada8316.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-table.0698287f312d.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-notification.a194fc356e20.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-n-scrollytelling-image.64b28cd8fbe0.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-audio.9f5609f087ec.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/financial-times-o-errors.be3c3bdc0c01.bundle.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/page-kit/scripts.bb1d02ede02f.bundle.js","https://consent-notice.ft.com/cmp.js","https://www.ft.com/__assets/hashed/pg-ads/vendors/admiral-unblock.js"]}</script><script>;(function () { var doc = document.documentElement var isEnhanced = isEnhancedBrowser() var scriptsConfig = getScriptsConfig() var scriptsToLoad = [] var currentScript = document.scripts[document.scripts.length - 1] doc.className = doc.className.replace('no-js', 'js') if (isEnhanced) { doc.className = doc.className.replace('core', 'enhanced') Array.prototype.push.apply(scriptsToLoad, scriptsConfig.enhanced) } else { Array.prototype.push.apply(scriptsToLoad, scriptsConfig.core) } for (var i = 0, len = scriptsToLoad.length; i < len; i++) { loadScript(scriptsToLoad[i]) } function scriptLoadError(error) { var script = error.target ? error.target.src : null if (script) { console.error('The script ' + script + ' failed to load') // eslint-disable-line no-console } if (/enhanced/.test(doc.className)) { console.warn('Script loading failed, reverting to core experience') // eslint-disable-line no-console doc.className = doc.className.replace('enhanced', 'core') } if (scriptsConfig.trackErrors) { addErrorTrackingPixel(script) } } function loadScript(src) { var script = document.createElement('script') script.onerror = scriptLoadError script.async = false script.src = src currentScript.parentNode.insertBefore(script, currentScript) } // "Cut the mustard" test // by Maggie Allen and Matt Hinchliffe November 2018 function isEnhancedBrowser() { var script = document.createElement('script') var input = document.createElement('input') return ( 'visibilityState' in document && // not supported by old Android (4.0-4.4) without a prefix 'indeterminate' in input && // not supported by BB 10 'flex' in doc.style && // not supported by old Safari (< 9) or IE 6-10 'async' in script // not supported by old Opera (Presto engine < 15) ) } function getScriptsConfig() { var scriptsConfigEl = document.getElementById('page-kit-bootstrap-config') var scriptsConfig = { core: [], enhanced: [], trackErrors: false } if (scriptsConfigEl) { try { scriptsConfig = JSON.parse(scriptsConfigEl.innerHTML) } catch (error) { console.error('Bootstrap configuration error', error) // eslint-disable-line no-console } } return scriptsConfig } function addErrorTrackingPixel(script) { var img = new Image() var data = JSON.stringify({ category: 'javascript', action: 'load-error', system: { source: 'page-kit' }, context: { script: script } }) img.src = 'https://spoor-api.ft.com/px.gif?data=' + encodeURIComponent(data) } })() </script><script>(function(w,d,s,l){ w[l]=w[l]||[];w[l].push({'gtm.start': new Date().getTime(),event:'gtm.js'}); var f=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],j=d.createElement(s),dl=l!='dataLayer'?'&l='+l:''; j.async=true; j.src='https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtm.js?id=GTM-NWQJW68'+dl; f.parentNode.insertBefore(j,f); })(window,document,'script','dataLayer');</script><script>(function loadCustomFonts() { var rootElement = document.documentElement; if (/(^|\s)o-typography-fonts-loaded=1(;|$)/.test(document.cookie)) { var fontLabels = ['sans', 'sans-bold', 'display', 'display-bold']; for (var i = 0; i < fontLabels.length; i++) { rootElement.className = rootElement.className.replace('o-typography--loading-' + fontLabels[i], ''); } } }());</script></head><body><noscript><iframe src="https://www.googletagmanager.com/ns.html?id=GTM-NWQJW68" height="0" width="0" style="display:none;visibility:hidden"></iframe></noscript><div class="n-layout"><a data-trackable="a11y-skip-to-help" class="n-layout__skip-link" href="https://www.ft.com/accessibility">Accessibility help</a><a data-trackable="a11y-skip-to-navigation" class="n-layout__skip-link" href="#site-navigation">Skip to navigation</a><a data-trackable="a11y-skip-to-content" class="n-layout__skip-link" href="#site-content">Skip to content</a><a data-trackable="a11y-skip-to-footer" class="n-layout__skip-link" href="#site-footer">Skip to footer</a><div class="n-layout__row n-layout__row--header"><div class="n-layout__header-before"><div id="n-exponea-bottom-slot"></div><div class="o-ads o-ads--center o-ads--background o-ads--transition o-ads--reserve-90 above-header-advert" data-o-ads-init="true" data-o-ads-name="leaderboard" data-o-ads-targeting="pos=top" data-o-ads-formats="MediumRectangle" data-o-ads-formats-small="false" data-o-ads-formats-medium="Leaderboard,FullBleedResponsive,Responsive,OneByOne" data-o-ads-formats-large="SuperLeaderboard,Leaderboard,FullBleedResponsive,Responsive,OneByOne" data-o-ads-formats-extra="Billboard,SuperLeaderboard,Leaderboard,FullBleedResponsive,Responsive,OneByOne"></div></div><header id="site-navigation" class="o-header o-header--simple" data-o-component="o-header" data-o-header--no-js="true" tabindex="-1"><div class="o-header__row o-header__anon" data-trackable="header-anon"><ul class="o-header__anon-list"><li class="o-header__anon-item"><a class="o-header__anon-link" href="/login?location=/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="Sign In">Sign In</a></li><li class="o-header__anon-item"><a class="o-header__anon-link" href="/products?segmentId=f860e6c2-18af-ab30-cd5e-6e3a456f9265" data-trackable="Subscribe">Subscribe</a></li></ul></div><div class="o-header__row o-header__top" data-trackable="header-top"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__top-wrapper"><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--left"><a href="#o-header-drawer" class="o-header__top-icon-link o-header__top-icon-link--menu" aria-controls="o-header-drawer" title="Open side navigation menu" data-trackable="drawer-toggle"><span class="o-header__top-link-label">Open side navigation menu</span></a><a href="#o-header-search-primary" class="o-header__top-icon-link o-header__top-icon-link--search" aria-controls="o-header-search-primary" title="Open search bar" data-trackable="search-toggle"><span class="o-header__top-link-label">Open search bar</span></a></div><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--center"><a class="o-header__top-logo" style="background-image:none" data-trackable="logo" href="/" title="Go to Financial Times homepage"><svg viewBox="0 0 1054 86"><title>Financial Times</title><path d="M26.177 72.609c0 5.938 1.697 7.295 12.554 7.295v3.732H.9v-3.732c7.464 0 10.01-.679 10.01-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.546-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h63.448l.34 22.563h-3.054C59.937 6.956 55.696 5.43 39.919 5.43H26.008v33.59h11.196c10.688 0 11.367-1.697 12.215-10.179h3.054v24.599h-3.054c-.848-8.482-1.527-10.01-12.215-10.01H26.008v29.18h.17zm46.314 11.027v-3.732c7.465 0 10.01-.679 10.01-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.545-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h35.287V5.09c-7.465 0-10.01.679-10.01 7.126v60.564c0 6.446 2.545 7.125 10.01 7.125v3.732H72.49zm115.36 1.357l-56.323-69.725V72.44c0 6.617 4.58 7.634 12.385 7.634v3.733h-29.858v-3.733c7.803 0 12.045-1.017 12.045-7.634V8.991c-3.563-3.732-6.108-3.902-12.045-3.902V1.357h26.465l43.09 55.475V12.554c0-6.616-4.58-7.634-12.384-7.634V1.357h30.027V5.09c-7.803 0-12.045 1.018-12.045 7.635v72.27h-1.357zm40.207-1.357h-29.689v-3.732c7.804 0 11.367-1.018 13.911-7.804L239.085.509h7.464l28.84 72.1c2.545 6.447 3.732 7.125 9.67 7.125v3.732h-34.438v-3.732c10.518 0 11.536-.848 8.99-7.125l-8.481-21.884h-25.787L217.71 71.93c-2.375 6.447 1.357 7.804 10.518 7.804v3.902h-.17zm-1.188-37.153h22.393l-11.705-29.518-10.688 29.518zm135.548 38.51l-56.153-69.725V72.44c0 6.617 4.58 7.634 12.384 7.634v3.733h-29.18v-3.733c7.126 0 11.367-1.017 11.367-7.634V9.161c-4.071-3.732-7.125-4.072-13.91-4.072V1.357h28.16l43.09 55.475V12.554c0-6.616-4.58-7.634-12.383-7.634V1.357h29.858V5.09c-7.804 0-12.045 1.018-12.045 7.635v72.27h-1.188zm83.297-83.805h2.036l1.187 24.598-3.053.17c-2.036-14.08-9.5-21.545-23.242-21.545-15.268 0-26.804 13.063-26.804 33.081 0 25.617 16.116 40.206 33.08 40.206 7.296 0 13.912-2.035 20.358-8.99l2.376 2.374c-5.26 7.465-15.608 13.742-29.52 13.742-20.696 0-41.732-15.608-41.732-41.734C380.4 17.813 399.57 0 422.813 0c11.027 0 16.795 4.75 19.848 4.75 1.357 0 2.375-1.187 3.054-3.562zm12.723 82.448v-3.732c7.465 0 10.01-.679 10.01-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.545-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h35.287V5.09c-7.464 0-10.01.679-10.01 7.126v60.564c0 6.446 2.546 7.125 10.01 7.125v3.732h-35.287zm68.538 0h-27.653v-3.732c6.108 0 9.331-1.018 11.876-7.804L538.003.509h7.464l28.84 72.1c2.545 6.447 3.733 7.125 9.67 7.125v3.732H549.54v-3.732c10.518 0 11.536-.848 8.991-7.125l-8.482-21.884h-25.786l-7.635 21.205c-2.375 6.447 1.358 7.804 10.519 7.804v3.902h-.17zm-1.188-37.153h22.394l-11.536-29.518-10.858 29.518zm63.957 37.153v-3.732c7.465 0 10.01-.679 10.01-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.545-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h35.117V5.09c-7.464 0-9.84.679-9.84 7.126v61.073c0 5.428 2.715 6.107 7.126 6.107h4.241c15.947 0 21.036-2.375 25.447-20.527l3.054.339-2.545 24.26h-62.6v.17zM760.75 1.357l.339 23.92h-3.054C756.34 7.634 752.098 5.43 736.32 5.43h-5.089v67.18c0 6.447 2.375 7.295 12.554 7.295v3.732h-40.376v-3.732c10.179 0 12.723-1.018 12.723-7.295V5.429h-5.089c-15.777 0-20.018 2.205-21.715 19.848h-3.053l.339-23.92h74.136zm7.973 82.28v-3.733c7.465 0 10.01-.679 10.01-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.545-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h35.287V5.09c-7.465 0-10.01.679-10.01 7.126v60.564c0 6.446 2.545 7.125 10.01 7.125v3.732h-35.287zM910.21 1.356V5.09c-7.465 0-10.688.34-10.01 6.956l6.447 61.073c.679 6.277 3.054 6.955 10.518 6.955v3.733h-35.117v-3.733c7.295 0 9.84-.678 9.331-6.955L884.762 8.99l-25.956 76.172h-1.018L832.34 8.822l-6.108 64.126c-.678 6.447 3.733 7.125 11.197 7.125v3.733h-27.483v-3.733c7.465 0 10.01-1.187 10.518-7.125l6.447-61.073c.679-6.446-2.545-6.955-10.01-6.955V1.357h28.84l17.305 56.153 18.661-56.153h28.5zm65.653 52.082h-3.053c-.849-8.482-1.527-10.01-12.215-10.01H948.04v29.859c0 5.428 2.715 6.107 7.125 6.107h6.786c15.947 0 21.036-2.375 25.447-20.527l3.054.339-2.884 24.26h-64.805v-3.733c7.464 0 10.009-.678 10.009-7.125V12.215c0-6.447-2.545-7.126-10.01-7.126V1.357h62.261l.34 20.527h-3.054c-1.866-14.59-5.598-16.286-21.885-16.286H948.21v33.42h12.554c10.687 0 11.366-1.696 12.214-10.178h3.054v24.599h-.17zm65.484 13.232c0-7.464-4.75-11.196-12.893-15.777l-13.063-6.786c-9.84-5.259-15.607-11.027-15.607-21.375C999.783 9.84 1010.81 0 1025.23 0c9.84 0 14.929 4.75 17.813 4.75 1.866 0 2.714-1.187 3.562-3.562h2.375l1.188 23.072-3.054.17c-1.696-11.198-9.67-19.85-20.866-19.85-8.483 0-14.081 5.09-14.081 12.215 0 7.804 5.937 11.027 12.554 14.59l11.196 5.937c10.519 5.768 17.983 11.536 17.983 22.563 0 14.59-12.554 24.939-28.161 24.939-11.028 0-16.456-5.26-19.34-5.26-1.866 0-2.884 1.697-3.732 4.242h-2.376l-1.696-24.43 3.054-.339c2.375 15.268 12.893 21.545 23.411 21.545 8.822-.17 16.286-4.071 16.286-13.91z" fill="#231F20" fill-rule="evenodd"></path></svg></a></div><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--right"><a class="o-header__top-button o-header__top-button--hide-m" role="button" href="/products?segmentId=f860e6c2-18af-ab30-cd5e-6e3a456f9265" data-trackable="Subscribe">Subscribe</a><a class="o-header__top-myaccount" id="o-header-top-link-signin" href="/login?location=/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="Sign In"><span>Sign In</span></a></div></div></div></div><div id="o-header-search-primary" class="o-header__row o-header__search o-header__search--primary" data-trackable="header-search" data-o-header-search="true"><div class="o-header__container"><form class="o-header__search-form" action="/search" role="search" aria-label="Site search" data-n-topic-search="true"><label for="o-header-search-term-primary" class="o-header__search-term o-forms-field o-forms-field--optional"><span class="o-forms-title o-header__visually-hidden"><span class="o-forms-title__main">Search the <abbr title="Financial Times">FT</abbr></span></span><span class="o-forms-input o-forms-input--text o-forms-input--suffix"><input type="search" id="o-header-search-term-primary" name="q" autoComplete="off" autoCorrect="off" autoCapitalize="off" spellcheck="false" placeholder="Search for stories, topics or securities" role="combobox" aria-controls="suggestions-o-header-search-term-primary"/><button class="o-header__search-submit" type="submit"><span aria-hidden="true" class="o-header__search-icon"></span><span>Search</span></button><button class="o-header__search-close o--if-js" type="button" aria-controls="o-header-search-primary" title="Close search bar" data-trackable="close"><span class="o-header__visually-hidden">Close search bar</span><span>Close</span></button></span></label></form></div></div><nav id="o-header-nav-desktop" class="o-header__row o-header__nav o-header__nav--desktop" role="navigation" aria-label="Primary navigation" data-trackable="header-nav:desktop"><div class="o-header__container"><ul class="o-header__nav-list o-header__nav-list--left" data-trackable="primary-nav"><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/" id="o-header-link-0" data-trackable="Home">Home</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/world" id="o-header-link-1" data-trackable="World">World</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-1" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-1" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | World"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/world" data-trackable="link">World Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/middle-east-war" data-trackable="link">Middle East war</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/global-economy" data-trackable="link">Global Economy</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/world-uk" data-trackable="link">UK</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us" data-trackable="link">US</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/china" data-trackable="link">China</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/africa" data-trackable="link">Africa</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/asia-pacific" data-trackable="link">Asia Pacific</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/emerging-markets" data-trackable="link">Emerging Markets</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/europe" data-trackable="link">Europe</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/war-in-ukraine" data-trackable="link">War in Ukraine</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/americas" data-trackable="link">Americas</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/middle-east-north-africa" data-trackable="link">Middle East &amp; North Africa</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/31429c63-70ef-4213-9732-f05ef4422dae" data-trackable="link">Biden aims to Trump-proof his legacy with policy blitz in final days</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/1ef2a6ef-a623-484f-9879-8cb3c26f67fb" data-trackable="link">Inside the bitter fight to become Donald Trump’s Treasury secretary</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8c1031b6-2917-4e0f-904a-45f6cd20059e" data-trackable="link">UN climate summit on the brink of collapse as vulnerable nations walk out</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/91865463-4b93-448c-95bb-8525ccb1016e" data-trackable="link">Brits retiring abroad could avoid UK inheritance tax under new loophole</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/0684127a-61de-41f4-af39-d36e0a1ffc5d" data-trackable="link">Gisèle Pelicot, the woman at the heart of a trial that has shocked France</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/us" id="o-header-link-2" data-trackable="US">US</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-2" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-2" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | US"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us" data-trackable="link">US Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us-economy" data-trackable="link">US Economy</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/investing-in-america" data-trackable="link">Investing in America</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us-companies" data-trackable="link">US Companies</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us-politics-policy" data-trackable="link">US Politics &amp; Policy</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/us-presidential-election-2024" data-trackable="link">US Presidential Election 2024</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/31429c63-70ef-4213-9732-f05ef4422dae" data-trackable="link">Biden aims to Trump-proof his legacy with policy blitz in final days</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/1ef2a6ef-a623-484f-9879-8cb3c26f67fb" data-trackable="link">Inside the bitter fight to become Donald Trump’s Treasury secretary</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/97050b29-02bf-4a2c-8629-9d1c8509dc55" data-trackable="link">Hollywood gives thanks for blockbusters after long lean period</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/bec322d1-0d73-4903-8b41-5e6d5d9a358a" data-trackable="link">Covid lockdown sceptic is frontrunner to lead Trump health agency</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/6f1984d1-8d19-43b1-a3cd-0f7ba9cbdd85" data-trackable="link">Tina is back: Investors say there is no alternative to US equities</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/companies" id="o-header-link-3" data-trackable="Companies">Companies</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-3" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-3" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Companies"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/companies" data-trackable="link">Companies Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/energy" data-trackable="link">Energy</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/financials" data-trackable="link">Financials</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/health" data-trackable="link">Health</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/industrials" data-trackable="link">Industrials</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/media" data-trackable="link">Media</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/professional-services" data-trackable="link">Professional Services</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/retail-consumer" data-trackable="link">Retail &amp; Consumer</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/technology-sector" data-trackable="link">Tech Sector</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/telecoms" data-trackable="link">Telecoms</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/transport" data-trackable="link">Transport</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/e1b52147-c171-4902-8bce-204ba0905912" data-trackable="link">Meta loses ground to Bluesky as users abandon Elon Musk’s X </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/22df8cf6-d224-4ce8-8d73-a5e3f995fc2c" data-trackable="link">Goldman Sachs takes $900mn hit on Northvolt investment</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8c1031b6-2917-4e0f-904a-45f6cd20059e" data-trackable="link">UN climate summit on the brink of collapse as vulnerable nations walk out</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ca809d14-5fb1-4586-b1ae-bf8ccae7d300" data-trackable="link">Ex-Barclays chief John Varley pulled back into fight to clear bank’s name</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/09938004-21b9-4750-8fa2-9ed15c566d4e" data-trackable="link">‘There was so much promise’: How Northvolt tumbled into bankruptcy</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/technology" id="o-header-link-4" data-trackable="Tech">Tech</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-4" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-4" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Tech"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/technology" data-trackable="link">Tech Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/artificial-intelligence" data-trackable="link">Artificial intelligence</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/semiconductors" data-trackable="link">Semiconductors</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/cyber-security" data-trackable="link">Cyber Security</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/social-media" data-trackable="link">Social Media</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/e1b52147-c171-4902-8bce-204ba0905912" data-trackable="link">Meta loses ground to Bluesky as users abandon Elon Musk’s X </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/c01c74e4-eda0-4752-ac51-cf2c694ab32f" data-trackable="link">Thomas Kurtz, mathematician, 1928-2024</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/a3a329ee-8c9a-4abd-add2-eb7d56f4c108" data-trackable="link">What Trump means for Silicon Valley</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/01da4ed8-0371-44b0-a07d-63e07f32939e" data-trackable="link">Amazon pumps another $4bn into AI start-up Anthropic</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ac17ef21-7a9d-4366-9b9e-343489785f9b" data-trackable="link">Samsung’s princeling heir Lee Jae-yong grapples with corporate crisis</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/markets" id="o-header-link-5" data-trackable="Markets">Markets</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-5" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-5" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Markets"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/markets" data-trackable="link">Markets Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/alphaville" data-trackable="link">Alphaville</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="https://markets.ft.com/data" data-trackable="link">Markets Data</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/crypto" data-trackable="link">Crypto</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/capital-markets" data-trackable="link">Capital Markets</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/commodities" data-trackable="link">Commodities</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/currencies" data-trackable="link">Currencies</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/equities" data-trackable="link">Equities</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/ft-wealth-management" data-trackable="link">Wealth Management</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/moral-money" data-trackable="link">Moral Money</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="https://etf.ft.com" data-trackable="link">ETF Hub</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/fund-management" data-trackable="link">Fund Management</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/ft-trading-room" data-trackable="link">Trading</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8c1031b6-2917-4e0f-904a-45f6cd20059e" data-trackable="link">UN climate summit on the brink of collapse as vulnerable nations walk out</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ca809d14-5fb1-4586-b1ae-bf8ccae7d300" data-trackable="link">Ex-Barclays chief John Varley pulled back into fight to clear bank’s name</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/73fa6fd9-6f34-4e59-8f0f-04de3be7387a" data-trackable="link">The delusions behind a bitcoin strategic reserve </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/cbc6cbb8-a91c-48b5-922e-ca5246956b2b" data-trackable="link">German bond investors bet on an end to Berlin’s ‘debt brake’ </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/6f1984d1-8d19-43b1-a3cd-0f7ba9cbdd85" data-trackable="link">Tina is back: Investors say there is no alternative to US equities</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/climate-capital" id="o-header-link-6" data-trackable="Climate">Climate</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/opinion" id="o-header-link-7" data-trackable="Opinion">Opinion</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-7" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-7" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Opinion"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/opinion" data-trackable="link">Opinion Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/columnists" data-trackable="link">Columnists</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/ft-view" data-trackable="link">The FT View</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/the-big-read" data-trackable="link">The Big Read</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/lex" data-trackable="link">Lex</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/obituaries" data-trackable="link">Obituaries</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/letters" data-trackable="link">Letters</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ded9a634-64f6-42a7-b081-40448b9e490a" data-trackable="link">The age of the partial outsider</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8292727b-48a9-489a-8b69-443271ba3957" data-trackable="link">Do they know it’s Africa, at all?</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/73fa6fd9-6f34-4e59-8f0f-04de3be7387a" data-trackable="link">The delusions behind a bitcoin strategic reserve </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/5d1d1137-c0ae-476e-941e-6811d59cea28" data-trackable="link">Confessions of a farmer’s daughter</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/c01c74e4-eda0-4752-ac51-cf2c694ab32f" data-trackable="link">Thomas Kurtz, mathematician, 1928-2024</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/lex" id="o-header-link-8" data-trackable="Lex">Lex</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/work-careers" id="o-header-link-9" data-trackable="Work &amp; Careers">Work &amp; Careers</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-9" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-9" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Work &amp; Careers"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/work-careers" data-trackable="link">Work &amp; Careers Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="https://rankings.ft.com/business-education" data-trackable="link">Business School Rankings</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/business-education" data-trackable="link">Business Education</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="https://rankings.ft.com/incubator-accelerator-programmes-europe" data-trackable="link">Europe&#x27;s Start-Up Hubs</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/entrepreneurship" data-trackable="link">Entrepreneurship</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/recruitment" data-trackable="link">Recruitment</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/business-books" data-trackable="link">Business Books</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/business-travel" data-trackable="link">Business Travel</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/working-it" data-trackable="link">Working It</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/91865463-4b93-448c-95bb-8525ccb1016e" data-trackable="link">Brits retiring abroad could avoid UK inheritance tax under new loophole</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/5283f0f0-2eb7-44e2-b477-a9999400065c" data-trackable="link">What the ‘manopause’ tells us about the gender gap </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ccb4c885-57f3-4008-8359-f4e4fcc24eaa" data-trackable="link">What’s behind the lesbian pay premium?</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/43527e66-2feb-45fc-8e74-0e2112a1fce5" data-trackable="link">The new rules of the hotel pool</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/5f43c144-7779-4c6b-8fe0-d40fd0d537e3" data-trackable="link">A local’s guide to Miami’s green spaces</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/life-arts" id="o-header-link-10" data-trackable="Life &amp; Arts">Life &amp; Arts</a><div class="o-header__mega" id="o-header-mega-10" role="group" aria-labelledby="o-header-link-10" data-o-header-mega="true" data-trackable="meganav | Life &amp; Arts"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__mega-wrapper"><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--subsections" data-trackable="sections"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Sections</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/life-arts" data-trackable="link">Life &amp; Arts Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/arts" data-trackable="link">Arts</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/books" data-trackable="link">Books</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/food-drink" data-trackable="link">Food &amp; Drink</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/magazine" data-trackable="link">FT Magazine</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/house-home" data-trackable="link">House &amp; Home</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/style" data-trackable="link">Style</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/travel" data-trackable="link">Travel</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/globetrotter" data-trackable="link">FT Globetrotter</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="o-header__mega-column o-header__mega-column--articles" data-trackable="popular"><div class="o-header__mega-heading">Most Read</div><div class="o-header__mega-content"><ul class="o-header__mega-list"><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8cc39e9f-d050-4f46-9187-aed5ae32b2cb" data-trackable="link">The myths that made Elon Musk </a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/ded9a634-64f6-42a7-b081-40448b9e490a" data-trackable="link">The age of the partial outsider</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/8292727b-48a9-489a-8b69-443271ba3957" data-trackable="link">Do they know it’s Africa, at all?</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/5d1d1137-c0ae-476e-941e-6811d59cea28" data-trackable="link">Confessions of a farmer’s daughter</a></li><li class="o-header__mega-item"><a class="o-header__mega-link" href="/content/bddc54ba-3dc1-4a1d-a245-ae8d83ef9573" data-trackable="link">Best books of 2024: Roula Khalaf, Janan Ganesh and other FT journalists pick their favourites</a></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/htsi" id="o-header-link-11" data-trackable="HTSI">HTSI</a></li></ul></div></nav></header><header class="o-header o-header--simple o-header--sticky o--if-js" data-o-component="o-header" data-o-header--sticky="true" aria-hidden="true"><div class="o-header__row o-header__top" data-trackable="header-sticky"><div class="o-header__container"><div class="o-header__top-wrapper"><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--left"><a href="#" class="o-header__top-icon-link o-header__top-icon-link--menu" aria-controls="o-header-drawer" data-trackable="drawer-toggle" tabindex="-1"><span class="o-header__top-link-label">Menu</span></a><a href="#" class="o-header__top-icon-link o-header__top-icon-link--search" aria-controls="o-header-search-sticky" data-trackable="search-toggle" tabindex="-1"><span class="o-header__top-link-label">Search</span></a></div><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--center"><div class="o-header__top-takeover"><div class="o-header__nav"><ul class="o-header__nav-list o-header__nav-list--left" data-trackable="primary-nav"><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/" data-trackable="Home" tabindex="-1">Home</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/world" data-trackable="World" tabindex="-1">World</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/us" data-trackable="US" tabindex="-1">US</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/companies" data-trackable="Companies" tabindex="-1">Companies</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/technology" data-trackable="Tech" tabindex="-1">Tech</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/markets" data-trackable="Markets" tabindex="-1">Markets</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/climate-capital" data-trackable="Climate" tabindex="-1">Climate</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/opinion" data-trackable="Opinion" tabindex="-1">Opinion</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/lex" data-trackable="Lex" tabindex="-1">Lex</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/work-careers" data-trackable="Work &amp; Careers" tabindex="-1">Work &amp; Careers</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/life-arts" data-trackable="Life &amp; Arts" tabindex="-1">Life &amp; Arts</a></li><li class="o-header__nav-item"><a class="o-header__nav-link o-header__nav-link--primary" href="/htsi" data-trackable="HTSI" tabindex="-1">HTSI</a></li></ul></div></div><a class="o-header__top-logo o-header__hide--L" data-trackable="logo" href="/" title="Go to Financial Times homepage" tabindex="-1"><span class="o-header__visually-hidden">Financial Times</span></a></div><div class="o-header__top-column o-header__top-column--right"><a class="o-header__top-button o-header__top-button--hide-m" role="button" href="/products?segmentId=f860e6c2-18af-ab30-cd5e-6e3a456f9265" data-trackable="Subscribe" tabindex="-1">Subscribe</a><a class="o-header__top-myaccount" id="o-header-top-link-signin" href="/login?location=/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="Sign In"><span>Sign In</span></a></div></div></div></div><div id="o-header-search-sticky" class="o-header__row o-header__search o-header__search--sticky" data-trackable="header-search" data-o-header-search="true"><div class="o-header__container"><form class="o-header__search-form" action="/search" role="search" aria-label="Site search" data-n-topic-search="true"><label for="o-header-search-term-sticky" class="o-header__search-term o-forms-field o-forms-field--optional"><span class="o-forms-title o-header__visually-hidden"><span class="o-forms-title__main">Search the <abbr title="Financial Times">FT</abbr></span></span><span class="o-forms-input o-forms-input--text o-forms-input--suffix"><input type="search" id="o-header-search-term-sticky" name="q" autoComplete="off" autoCorrect="off" autoCapitalize="off" spellcheck="false" placeholder="Search for stories, topics or securities" role="combobox" aria-controls="suggestions-o-header-search-term-sticky"/><button class="o-header__search-submit" type="submit"><span aria-hidden="true" class="o-header__search-icon"></span><span>Search</span></button><button class="o-header__search-close o--if-js" type="button" aria-controls="o-header-search-sticky" title="Close search bar" data-trackable="close"><span class="o-header__visually-hidden">Close search bar</span><span>Close</span></button></span></label></form></div></div></header></div><div class="n-layout__row n-layout__row--content"><div><div data-reactroot=""><div id="n-exponea-top-slot"></div><div class="article-content"><div class="article-topper"><div class="o-topper article-topper o-topper--color-black o-topper--deep-landscape"><div class="o-topper__content o-topper__content--text-shadow" id="o-topper"><div class="o-topper__tags"><div class="topper__primary-theme"><a href="/htsi" class="o-topper__brand" data-trackable="primary-brand" aria-label="part of the HTSI column">HTSI<!-- -->  </a><span><a href="/travel" class="o-topper__topic n-content-tag--with-follow js-primary-theme" data-trackable="primary-theme" aria-label="posted in category Travel" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2">Travel</a></span><form action="/myft/add/a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/followed/concept/a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2?method=put" class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--follow" method="GET" data-myft-ui="follow" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" data-myft-ui-variant="followPlusInstantAlerts"><div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Now following Travel." data-unpressed-text="No longer following Travel."></div><input type="hidden" data-myft-csrf-token="true" value="" name="token"/><button aria-label="Add Travel to myFT" title="Add Travel to myFT" data-alternate-label="Added Travel to myFT: click to manage alert preferences or remove from myFT" aria-pressed="false" data-alternate-text="Added" class="n-myft-follow-button n-myft-follow-button--instant-alerts n-myft-follow-button--monochrome" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" data-trackable="follow" type="submit" data-component-id="myft-follow-plus-instant-alerts">Add to myFT</button></form><div class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal " data-component-id="myft-preferences-modal" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2"><div class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal__content"><span class="o-forms-input o-forms-input--checkbox"><label for="receive-instant-alerts"><input type="checkbox" id="receive-instant-alerts" name="receive-instant-alerts" value="receive-instant-alerts" data-component-id="myft-preferences-modal-checkbox" data-trackable-context-concept_id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2"/><span class="o-forms-input__label n-myft-ui__preferences-modal__checkbox__message">Get instant alerts for this topic</span></label></span><p data-component-id="myft-preferences-modal-list" class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal__text"></p><a class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal__text" href="/myft/alerts" data-trackable="pop-up-box|contact-preference" data-trackable-context-concept_id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2">Manage your delivery channels here</a><span class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal-error" data-component-id="myft-preference-modal-error"></span><button class="n-myft-ui__preferences-modal__remove-button" data-component-id="myft-preference-modal-remove" data-trackable="pop-up-box|remove-from-myFT" data-trackable-context-concept_id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2">Remove from myFT</button></div></div></div></div><h1 class="o-topper__headline o-topper__headline--large"><span class="headline__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man</span></h1><div class="o-topper__standfirst">A safari in the country’s far north tracks back 1.6 million years to the roots of humanity</div></div><div class="o-topper__background"></div><figure class="o-topper__visual"><picture class="o-topper__picture"><source media="(min-width: 981px) and (max-width: 1440px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab83e92d5-1b69-4a4b-bf56-a8963937f502?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1440&amp;dpr=1 1x" width="2137" height="1425"/><source media="(min-width: 1441px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab83e92d5-1b69-4a4b-bf56-a8963937f502?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1920&amp;dpr=1 1x" width="2137" height="1425"/><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A3f56d1c2-9dc9-4e10-a71c-66e0da767246?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A3f56d1c2-9dc9-4e10-a71c-66e0da767246?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1077" height="1615"/><source media="(min-width: 491px) and (max-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A3f56d1c2-9dc9-4e10-a71c-66e0da767246?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=980&amp;dpr=1 1x" width="1077" height="1615"/><img alt="" class="o-topper__image" src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab83e92d5-1b69-4a4b-bf56-a8963937f502?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1440&amp;dpr=1"/></picture><figcaption class="o-topper__image-caption">Samburu warriors perform a traditional dance in Samburuland in northern Kenya<!-- --> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</figcaption></figure></div></div><article id="site-content" role="main" class="article article-grid article-grid--full-width-graphics" data-content-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-access-level="free" data-syndicatable="no" data-article-type="full-width-graphics" data-cp-content-pipeline="true" data-feature-ads-pg="off"><div class="main-image"></div><div class="share-nav" data-trackable="share | top"><div class="share-nav__vertical" data-share-nav-vertical="true" data-component="share-nav"><div data-o-component="o-share" data-o-share-article="true" class="o-share o-share--vertical "><ul data-toolbar="share"><li class="o-share__action share-nav__x-action" data-share="twitter"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--x" rel="noopener" href="https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?url=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e&amp;text=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man&amp;via=ft" data-trackable="twitter"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 40 40"><path d="M21.647 18.469 28.932 10h-1.726l-6.326 7.353L15.827 10H10l7.64 11.12L10 30h1.726l6.68-7.765L23.744 30h5.827l-7.924-11.531Zm-2.365 2.748-.774-1.107-6.16-8.81H15l4.971 7.11.774 1.107 6.462 9.242h-2.652l-5.273-7.541"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->x<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__facebook-action" data-share="facebook"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--facebook" rel="noopener" href="https://www.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e&amp;t=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man" data-trackable="facebook"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M643.9 342h-48.2c-37.8 0-45.1 18-45.1 44.3v58.1h90.1l-11.7 91h-78.4V769h-94V535.5H378v-91h78.6v-67.1c0-77.9 47.6-120.3 117.1-120.3 33.3 0 61.9 2.5 70.2 3.6V342z"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->facebook<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__linkedin-action" data-share="linkedin"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--linkedin" rel="noopener" href="https://www.linkedin.com/sharing/share-offsite/?url=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="linkedin"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M264.4 426.2h106.2v341.4H264.4V426.2zm53.2-169.7c-34.1 0-61.6 27.6-61.6 61.5 0 34 27.5 61.5 61.6 61.5 33.9 0 61.5-27.6 61.5-61.5-.1-34-27.6-61.5-61.5-61.5zm323.1 161.2c-51.6 0-86.2 28.3-100.4 55.1h-1.5v-46.7H437.2v341.4h106V598.7c0-44.5 8.4-87.7 63.6-87.7 54.5 0 55.1 50.9 55.1 90.5v166H768V580.3c0-91.9-19.9-162.6-127.3-162.6z"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->linkedin<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__whatsapp-action" data-share="whatsapp"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--whatsapp" rel="noopener" href="whatsapp://send?text=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man%20-%20https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="whatsapp"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M756.7 436.8c-35.6-122-152.2-196.3-279.3-178.1-116 16.7-208.2 121.5-210.6 238.6-.9 45.5 9.5 87.9 30.4 128.2 2.6 4.9 3.1 12.2 1.6 17.6-4.1 15.4-9.8 30.5-14.9 45.7L257.6 768c44.5-14.2 86.2-27.4 127.8-41.1 7.3-2.4 13.1-1.8 19.9 1.5 48.9 23.9 100.3 31.5 154.2 22.4 145.1-24.5 238.3-172.8 197.2-314zM542.2 710.9c-47.6 5.4-91.8-3.7-132.7-28.3-5.4-3.2-9.9-3.8-15.8-1.8-20.2 6.8-40.7 13.2-61 19.7-2.4.8-4.9 1.2-9.5 2.4 5.3-16.1 8.6-31.2 15.1-44.8 9.4-20.1 6.5-35.8-4.3-55.9-57.4-106-12.8-237.4 99.5-287 124.7-55.1 269.7 24.4 288.6 159.4 17.9 129.1-77.2 224.6-179.9 236.3zm98.3-144.6c2.9 1.7 5.2 7.7 4.9 11.6-1.8 27.4-19.7 46.3-47.1 50.4-4.6.7-9.3.9-14 1.4l-.3 1c-8.8-1.9-17.7-3.3-26.2-5.9-57.5-17.8-101.9-53-134.8-103.2-13.6-20.8-27.2-41.4-30.4-66.8-3.1-24.2 4.6-44.7 21.1-62.3 10.4-11 23.3-10.4 36.3-7.7 2.9.6 6.1 4.2 7.4 7.2 6.9 16.7 13.7 33.4 19.4 50.5 1.5 4.7-.5 10.8-2 16-.8 3-3.6 5.5-5.7 8.1-14.9 18.3-14.7 18.2-1.7 37.8 17.8 26.9 41.5 46.8 70.2 61.2 9 4.5 15.7 3.7 21.9-4.2 5.2-6.5 11.1-12.5 16.5-18.9 4-4.8 8.6-6 14.2-3.1 16.8 8.9 33.9 17.4 50.3 26.9"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->whatsapp<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__save-action"><div><form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--save" method="GET" data-content-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-myft-ui="saved" action="/myft/save/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/saved/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e?method=put" data-myft-ui-save-config="nonModal"> <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Article saved in My FT." data-unpressed-text="Removed article from My FT." ></div> <button type="submit" class="n-myft-ui__save-button-with-icon" data-trackable="save-for-later" title="Save this article to myFT for later" aria-label="Save this article to myFT for later" data-alternate-label=" Saved to myFT" aria-pressed="false" data-text-variant="save-button-with-icon-copy" data-alternate-text="Saved&nbsp;" data-content-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" > <span class="save-button-with-icon-copy" data-variant-label>Save</span> </button> </form></div></li></ul></div><div id="article-progress"></div><div id="share-modal-vertical"></div></div><div class="share-nav__horizontal" data-share-nav-vertical="false" data-component="share-nav"><div data-o-component="o-share" data-o-share-article="true" class="o-share o-share--horizontal "><ul data-toolbar="share"><li class="o-share__action share-nav__x-action" data-share="twitter"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--x" rel="noopener" href="https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?url=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e&amp;text=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man&amp;via=ft" data-trackable="twitter"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 40 40"><path d="M21.647 18.469 28.932 10h-1.726l-6.326 7.353L15.827 10H10l7.64 11.12L10 30h1.726l6.68-7.765L23.744 30h5.827l-7.924-11.531Zm-2.365 2.748-.774-1.107-6.16-8.81H15l4.971 7.11.774 1.107 6.462 9.242h-2.652l-5.273-7.541"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->x<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__facebook-action" data-share="facebook"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--facebook" rel="noopener" href="https://www.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e&amp;t=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man" data-trackable="facebook"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M643.9 342h-48.2c-37.8 0-45.1 18-45.1 44.3v58.1h90.1l-11.7 91h-78.4V769h-94V535.5H378v-91h78.6v-67.1c0-77.9 47.6-120.3 117.1-120.3 33.3 0 61.9 2.5 70.2 3.6V342z"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->facebook<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__linkedin-action" data-share="linkedin"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--linkedin" rel="noopener" href="https://www.linkedin.com/sharing/share-offsite/?url=https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="linkedin"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M264.4 426.2h106.2v341.4H264.4V426.2zm53.2-169.7c-34.1 0-61.6 27.6-61.6 61.5 0 34 27.5 61.5 61.6 61.5 33.9 0 61.5-27.6 61.5-61.5-.1-34-27.6-61.5-61.5-61.5zm323.1 161.2c-51.6 0-86.2 28.3-100.4 55.1h-1.5v-46.7H437.2v341.4h106V598.7c0-44.5 8.4-87.7 63.6-87.7 54.5 0 55.1 50.9 55.1 90.5v166H768V580.3c0-91.9-19.9-162.6-127.3-162.6z"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->linkedin<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__whatsapp-action" data-share="whatsapp"><a class="o-share__icon o-share__icon--whatsapp" rel="noopener" href="whatsapp://send?text=Journey%20to%20Kenya%2C%20and%20the%20cradle%20of%20man%20-%20https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="whatsapp"><div class="o-share__icon__image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 1024 1024"><path d="M756.7 436.8c-35.6-122-152.2-196.3-279.3-178.1-116 16.7-208.2 121.5-210.6 238.6-.9 45.5 9.5 87.9 30.4 128.2 2.6 4.9 3.1 12.2 1.6 17.6-4.1 15.4-9.8 30.5-14.9 45.7L257.6 768c44.5-14.2 86.2-27.4 127.8-41.1 7.3-2.4 13.1-1.8 19.9 1.5 48.9 23.9 100.3 31.5 154.2 22.4 145.1-24.5 238.3-172.8 197.2-314zM542.2 710.9c-47.6 5.4-91.8-3.7-132.7-28.3-5.4-3.2-9.9-3.8-15.8-1.8-20.2 6.8-40.7 13.2-61 19.7-2.4.8-4.9 1.2-9.5 2.4 5.3-16.1 8.6-31.2 15.1-44.8 9.4-20.1 6.5-35.8-4.3-55.9-57.4-106-12.8-237.4 99.5-287 124.7-55.1 269.7 24.4 288.6 159.4 17.9 129.1-77.2 224.6-179.9 236.3zm98.3-144.6c2.9 1.7 5.2 7.7 4.9 11.6-1.8 27.4-19.7 46.3-47.1 50.4-4.6.7-9.3.9-14 1.4l-.3 1c-8.8-1.9-17.7-3.3-26.2-5.9-57.5-17.8-101.9-53-134.8-103.2-13.6-20.8-27.2-41.4-30.4-66.8-3.1-24.2 4.6-44.7 21.1-62.3 10.4-11 23.3-10.4 36.3-7.7 2.9.6 6.1 4.2 7.4 7.2 6.9 16.7 13.7 33.4 19.4 50.5 1.5 4.7-.5 10.8-2 16-.8 3-3.6 5.5-5.7 8.1-14.9 18.3-14.7 18.2-1.7 37.8 17.8 26.9 41.5 46.8 70.2 61.2 9 4.5 15.7 3.7 21.9-4.2 5.2-6.5 11.1-12.5 16.5-18.9 4-4.8 8.6-6 14.2-3.1 16.8 8.9 33.9 17.4 50.3 26.9"></path></svg></div><span class="o-share__text">Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man<!-- --> on <!-- -->whatsapp<!-- --> (opens in a new window)</span></a></li><li class="o-share__action share-nav__save-action"><div><form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--save" method="GET" data-content-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-myft-ui="saved" action="/myft/save/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/saved/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e?method=put" data-myft-ui-save-config="nonModal"> <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Article saved in My FT." data-unpressed-text="Removed article from My FT." ></div> <button type="submit" class="n-myft-ui__save-button-with-icon" data-trackable="save-for-later" title="Save this article to myFT for later" aria-label="Save this article to myFT for later" data-alternate-label=" Saved to myFT" aria-pressed="false" data-text-variant="save-button-with-icon-copy" data-alternate-text="Saved&nbsp;" data-content-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" > <span class="save-button-with-icon-copy" data-variant-label>Save</span> </button> </form></div></li></ul></div><div id="share-modal-horizontal"></div></div><span class="myft-ui-create-list-variant-announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" role="region" aria-live="assertive"></span></div><div class="article__content" data-trackable="article-body" data-component="article-body"><div class="article-info"><div class="article-info__time-byline"><p class="article-info__byline"><a class="n-content-tag--author" href="/david-pilling" data-trackable="author">David Pilling</a>. Photography by Alex Kurunis</p> <time data-o-component="o-date" class="article-info__timestamp o-date" dateTime="2024-11-16T05:00:47.806Z">November 16 2024</time></div><a id="o-comments-count" data-o-component="o-comments" data-o-comments-article-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-o-comments-count="true" data-o-comments-article-url="https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-o-comments-title="Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man" class="article-comment-count" title="Jump to comments section" href="#comments-anchor"><span class="o-normalise-visually-hidden">Jump to comments section</span></a><button class="article-print" data-component="print-button" data-trackable="print" title="Print this page"><span class="o-normalise-visually-hidden">Print this page</span></button></div><div class="article__content-sign-up"><div class="article__content-sign-up-topic-title">Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free</div><p class="article__content-sign-up-topic-description"><span>Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.</span></p><iframe class="article__content-sign-up-iframe close" scrolling="no" id="signUpIframe" data-prev-url="/register/in-article-sign-up?ft-content-uuid=84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"></iframe></div><article id="article-body" class="n-content-body js-article__content-body" data-attribute="article-content-body" data-component="article-content-body"><p>To the Turkana people it is Anam Ka’alakol, the Sea of Many Fish. To most Kenyans it is Lake Turkana, the world’s largest desert lake, in the badlands of the northern frontier. To generations of hominid fossil hunters, it is simply where it all began.</p><p>Picture the Mediterranean transplanted to a Martian landscape, and you’ll get an inkling of the intense, brooding beauty of Lake Turkana, whipped by winds, pounded by a jack-hammer sun and bounded by folds of pink volcanic rock. At 250km long and a spindly 30km wide, the lake lances like a jade spear through the parched north-lands of Kenya, its northern tip stabbing into Ethiopia.</p><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A50a4d143-a529-4524-80c1-edff784ea89e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A50a4d143-a529-4524-80c1-edff784ea89e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F50a4d143-a529-4524-80c1-edff784ea89e.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="The Nabuyaton Cone volcanic crater on the southern shore of Lake Turkana in Kenya" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>The Nabuyaton Cone volcanic crater on the southern shore of Lake Turkana in Kenya</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acbaf9e77-ebb1-41f2-91a4-0ff31f6be775?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acbaf9e77-ebb1-41f2-91a4-0ff31f6be775?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acbaf9e77-ebb1-41f2-91a4-0ff31f6be775?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acbaf9e77-ebb1-41f2-91a4-0ff31f6be775?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1757"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A429eb9f0-aacd-4edf-b82d-a76de829e388?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A429eb9f0-aacd-4edf-b82d-a76de829e388?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1757"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fbef617e3-9845-44be-a670-b46adefb402b.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="A Cessna 182 on the landing strip near Koros Camp in the South Horr Valley" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1757" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>A Cessna 182 on the landing strip near Koros Camp in the South Horr Valley</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><p>In this brutal landscape, scattered communities survive on cattle, camels and goats, or Nile perch pulled from the lake’s crocodile-studded waters. Pastoralists move about it, not always in harmony, since many believe God bestowed all the world’s cows on them, a set of convictions with predictably unfortunate results. Turkana and Samburu rub shoulders uneasily on the lake’s southern fringes; there are Borana, Gabra, Rendille and, a little further afield, the Pokot, with their fierce reputation for banditry.</p><p>It is on Lake Turkana’s ancient shores that successive generations of paleoanthropologists have unearthed some of the most compelling evidence of our common ancestry. In 1984, the Kenyan fossil hunter Kamoya Kimeu spotted what turned out to be “Turkana Boy”, the near-complete fossil of a juvenile <em>Homo erectus</em> whose life was cut short some 1.6 million years ago on what was then the lake’s western shore. In 2011, archaeologists took a wrong turn in the desert, only to stumble upon stone tools made 3.3 million years ago by our hominin ancestors – 700,000 years earlier than previously thought. <em>Nature</em> magazine called it “The Dawn of Technology”.</p><p>My trip begins with a bit of late-stage technology: a De Havilland Dash 8 prop plane that flies me, on a rare visit for a non-scientist, to the <a href="https://www.turkanabasin.org/" data-trackable="link">Turkana Basin Institute</a> (TBI). The brainchild of the late Richard Leakey, who with his wife Meave and Kenyans like Kimeu were part of a world-famous fossil-hunting collective known as “the Hominid Gang”, the institute is a research centre, not a tourist destination. My visit, including a night’s stay, was finagled by Africa fixers <a href="https://journeysbydesign.com/" data-trackable="link">Journeys by Design</a>, whose founder, Will Jones, has developed a fascination with what he calls the “human journey”, from our early ancestors through to modern-day cultures, and an ambition to build a travel offering around it. </p><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ac7744c94-d30b-461e-82ba-b4e94561f7b0?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ac7744c94-d30b-461e-82ba-b4e94561f7b0?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fc7744c94-d30b-461e-82ba-b4e94561f7b0.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Carvings of giraffes on the rocks in a valley near Lake Turkana" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Carvings of giraffes on the rocks in a valley near Lake Turkana</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-name="auto" data-layout-width="full-grid"><div class="n-content-layout__container"><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A0bfd92ed-239d-495b-be7b-d71d4ce5541e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A0bfd92ed-239d-495b-be7b-d71d4ce5541e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1600" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F0bfd92ed-239d-495b-be7b-d71d4ce5541e.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="A c10,000-year-old skull found by Dr Marta Lahr that led to discoveries about forager-hunter violence, in the collection of The Turkana Basin Institute near Lodwar" data-image-type="image" width="1600" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>A c10,000-year-old skull found by Dr Marta Lahr that led to discoveries about forager-hunter violence, in the collection of The Turkana Basin Institute near Lodwar</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A8b4983d9-e42b-4e49-bec8-61a949fbfe1a?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A8b4983d9-e42b-4e49-bec8-61a949fbfe1a?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1599" height="2398"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F8b4983d9-e42b-4e49-bec8-61a949fbfe1a.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Christine Atabo, the collections supervisor at the Turkana Basin Institute" data-image-type="image" width="1599" height="2398" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Christine Atabo, the collections supervisor at the Turkana Basin Institute</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p>Jones also organises trips to Chad, where the earliest hominid skull, six to seven million years old, was found; and Ethiopia, where the discovery in 1974 of Lucy, a 3.2 million-year-old female <em>Australopithecus afarensis</em>, upended the world of palaeontology. If your idea of a holiday is visiting old relatives, Jones is your man. </p><p>The Dash 8 flies nearly two hours north from Nairobi’s Wilson airport, leaving behind the familiar green of savannah and landing in Lodwar, in the rock and sand of the north. It feels not so much like a different country as a different planet. We rattle 40 minutes along desert roads past scattered <em>manyattas</em> – villages of domed huts shaped like Baci chocolates, only covered in straw and rainproof polythene instead of silver foil. Small children wander lackadaisically behind herds of goats. </p><p>The squat buildings of the institute, the biggest structures for miles, sit on a dramatic rocky bend of the mud-brown Turkwel river, which oozes into Lake Turkana’s western shore. It’s one of three rivers that feed the saline lake; the biggest, the mighty Omo, roars down from Ethiopia. With no outflow, the only escape is evaporation; the trapped water has an end-of-earth feel. </p><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A5e7c7a1e-0dc2-47c9-9787-18f1e9cc4232?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A5e7c7a1e-0dc2-47c9-9787-18f1e9cc4232?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A5e7c7a1e-0dc2-47c9-9787-18f1e9cc4232?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A5e7c7a1e-0dc2-47c9-9787-18f1e9cc4232?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ae41c709f-fb33-4db9-8283-88a49f49de75?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ae41c709f-fb33-4db9-8283-88a49f49de75?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F1ecc048b-c51d-49b2-a2f2-87f07d387fef.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Samburu warrior “Daniel” in Loboitong village in the Kalepo conservancy" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Samburu warrior “Daniel” in Loboitong village in the Kalepo conservancy</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af8085d22-e851-4a98-a248-782cec8240b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af8085d22-e851-4a98-a248-782cec8240b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af8085d22-e851-4a98-a248-782cec8240b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af8085d22-e851-4a98-a248-782cec8240b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Adcecf945-8daf-4119-8438-cccfa981373a?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Adcecf945-8daf-4119-8438-cccfa981373a?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F763ecb7a-a395-4d6f-aa74-c06eff0533e3.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Donkeys carry loads on the southern shores of Lake Turkana" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Donkeys carry loads on the southern shores of Lake Turkana</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><p>I am met by Christine Atabo, TBI’s collections supervisor, a shy but confident 31-year-old. As a girl born into a polygamous, semi-nomadic Turkana family, school was never an option. But she went anyway. “We didn’t have electricity, we didn’t have mattresses and we didn’t have good utensils, just wooden ones crafted by my mother,” she says. “I wanted to taste the goodness that education brings to people.” She would trace letters in the sand, copied from borrowed textbooks. One day, she sneaked off to class. She advanced rapidly, going on to high school and eventually to university; she now oversees the fossil collection at TBI’s Turkwel campus and liaises with the Turkana community, who can be suspicious of the institute’s penchant for digging up dead bodies.</p><p>That night, I sleep out on the veranda. An orange sun smudges the horizon; as the birds stop clattering on the tin roof, a delicious breeze, sent by the lake, whips up like air conditioning. I drift off watching my mosquito net fluttering in the moonlight. </p><div class="n-content-layout" data-component="flourish" data-component-id="20296894" data-component-type="flourish-in-article"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-layout__container"><a href="#20296894"><picture data-asset-type="flourish" data-flourish-id="20296894" data-flourish-type="visualisation"><div id="20296894" class="cp-message o-message o-message--inform o-message--notice" data-o-component="o-message"><div class="o-message__container"><div class="o-message__content"><p class="o-message__content-main">Some content could not load. Check your internet connection or browser settings.</p></div></div></div><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fpublic.flourish.studio%2Fvisualisation%2F20296894%2Fthumbnail%3FcacheBuster%3D962430?source=cp-content-pipeline&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1020&amp;dpr=1" alt=""/></picture></a></figure></div><p>The next day Atabo shows me around the fossil collection – a large, half-lit room with rows of stacked wooden boxes arranged by geological era, which I quickly take to thinking of as the “bone library”. At the back is the Cretaceous-period section, from 145 million to 66 million years ago. She casually removes the lid of one box to expose the upper jawbone of a carnivorous dinosaur known as an Abelisaurid. I spend the next hour, like a child in an app store, browsing labels and opening boxes: a hyrax from the Oligocene (34 to 23 million years ago), a hippopotamus skull from the Pleistocene (2.6 million to 11,700 years ago) and a modern-day python skeleton as thick as my arm. Next door Simon Eporon, a technician from the Turkana community, uses a pencil-lead-thin drill to uncover the fossil of an Ice Age giraffe tooth. </p><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-name="auto" data-layout-width="full-grid"><div class="n-content-layout__container"><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ac37464d6-ef17-4044-9e4b-007a680a06c7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ac37464d6-ef17-4044-9e4b-007a680a06c7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fc37464d6-ef17-4044-9e4b-007a680a06c7.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Northern Rangelands Trust ranger Parini Iengarawet" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Northern Rangelands Trust ranger Parini Iengarawet</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A383513f7-a14e-47a1-a8b2-f4f85b00ddd8?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A383513f7-a14e-47a1-a8b2-f4f85b00ddd8?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F383513f7-a14e-47a1-a8b2-f4f85b00ddd8.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="The Karisia Hills to the south of Lake Turkana" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>The Karisia Hills to the south of Lake Turkana</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af80fe7af-fa66-4bab-9ba6-58c16eb0c7ae?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af80fe7af-fa66-4bab-9ba6-58c16eb0c7ae?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af80fe7af-fa66-4bab-9ba6-58c16eb0c7ae?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Af80fe7af-fa66-4bab-9ba6-58c16eb0c7ae?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A2bb30331-dd74-40c4-93ed-579ca937610e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A2bb30331-dd74-40c4-93ed-579ca937610e?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fd34dec1e-f41c-46cb-9c2e-39876b03566a.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="A Northern Rangelands Trust ranger leading a guided bush tour from Kalepo Camp" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>A Northern Rangelands Trust ranger leading a guided bush tour from Kalepo Camp</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><p>Scientists from universities associated with TBI, many of whom have built careers on particular dig sites, return each year to refresh their search. Francis Ekai often accompanies them. He is so adept at finding fossils they call him “the human GPS”. </p><p>Before we take off for our next destination, Atabo shows me one of Lake Turkana’s most startling secrets. In 2012, archaeologists excavated the site of what they believed was 10,000-year-old evidence of a massacre – among the earliest ever recorded. Inside a box is a crushed skull, the remains of one of 27 people who suffered a  violent death. Another has an arrow head embedded in its cranium. Scientists say the mass grave suggests that forager-hunters engaged in warfare, lending credence to the argument that war is in our DNA, not a social consequence of hierarchies and territorial disputes. </p><p>“It’s the way the Turkana and the Pokot fight now,” says Atabo of the perpetual struggle over cattle. “You cannot sleep today if someone was killed yesterday. We will just go and get revenge.” </p><p>The flight across the southern tip of Lake Turkana to the South Horr valley is spectacular. We pass initially over a terrain veined by dry river beds and speckled by village compounds; then, some 20 minutes in, we start bouncing on thermals as we traverse grooved mountains like brains made of rock. On the right side of the tiny Cessna is a Mars-scape; on the left, the blue-green of Lake Turkana. Black lava has spewed across the desert floor and emerald-green waters pool. Mud oozes. It is not hard to imagine this cauldron as the crucible of life. </p><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab6592290-63cc-4ba4-a2cf-b5eaf696c01b?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab6592290-63cc-4ba4-a2cf-b5eaf696c01b?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb6592290-63cc-4ba4-a2cf-b5eaf696c01b.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="A Samburu girl dressed for a traditional dance" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>A Samburu girl dressed for a traditional dance</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-name="auto" data-layout-width="full-grid"><div class="n-content-layout__container"><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Aa046c1cb-e149-4b5b-9238-460be176257b?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Aa046c1cb-e149-4b5b-9238-460be176257b?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fa046c1cb-e149-4b5b-9238-460be176257b.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="The swimming pool at Koros Camp" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>The swimming pool at Koros Camp</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab91bd7eb-179e-4e29-99d3-46a8d6eb3e33?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab91bd7eb-179e-4e29-99d3-46a8d6eb3e33?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb91bd7eb-179e-4e29-99d3-46a8d6eb3e33.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="A Samburu warrior holds his snuff pouch" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>A Samburu warrior holds his snuff pouch</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p>We are met by Amory Macleod, a member of one of Kenya’s most famous safari families. With his partner Karina Jessop, he oversaw the rebuilding of <a href="https://www.koroscamp.com/" data-trackable="link">Koros Camp</a>, a hospitable and quietly luxurious bolthole in this inhospitable wonderland. After a tour of the camp – clean lines, adobe-walled rooms and decluttered interiors that would have Marie Kondo scratching her head – we lurch off on quad bikes along the dried-up river bed. There’s something wrong about hurtling in fifth gear towards a gin-and-tonic sundowner past loping camels and waving children, though no doubt I’ll get over it. </p><p>We spend that night not at Koros, but in a satellite fly camp. Apparently some guests are nervous about sleeping in “the bush”, but the experience is so cosseted and choreographed – more braised Mediterranean fennel, anyone? – that only the most skittish has anything to worry about. After a nightcap by the fire and an enamel pail of hot water brought tentside, we retire to pod-like mosquito-net tents mounted on six-legged cots. </p><p>A Land Cruiser speeds us towards the lake shore the next morning. We pass Africa’s biggest wind farm, installed, appropriately, in one of its windiest spots. Ranks of turbines crank round, producing electricity to be transmitted south. There’s a surreal quality to the gleaming-white structures, like upended jet planes impaled into the ground, made weirder still by the trains of camels plodding beneath the whirring propellers.</p><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A4a8c48e9-d2a6-4665-bd37-68cc48ab0187?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A4a8c48e9-d2a6-4665-bd37-68cc48ab0187?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A4a8c48e9-d2a6-4665-bd37-68cc48ab0187?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A4a8c48e9-d2a6-4665-bd37-68cc48ab0187?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A329347ab-d2c7-4e49-b269-6ad49452e9e3?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A329347ab-d2c7-4e49-b269-6ad49452e9e3?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F9ec0dda7-63b4-4b3a-b13d-628a6de1bf6c.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="The swimming pool at Kalepo Camp" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>The swimming pool at Kalepo Camp</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A231b27af-203d-43d9-99b5-43b93adb7541?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A231b27af-203d-43d9-99b5-43b93adb7541?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A231b27af-203d-43d9-99b5-43b93adb7541?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A231b27af-203d-43d9-99b5-43b93adb7541?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab207f070-8a10-469d-a7cf-1aca70dcb5b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab207f070-8a10-469d-a7cf-1aca70dcb5b7?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F798319a9-43a5-4185-a06f-da25bcdf4251.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="The bed in a tent at Kalepo Camp, run by Robert and Storm Mason" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>The bed in a tent at Kalepo Camp, run by Robert and Storm Mason</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><p>Further on, closer to the lake, are Turkana villages. There’s no sign of running water, let alone the electricity being cranked out nearby. Women sit cross-legged pounding rocks, apparently for the walls of a government school being built on the shore. </p><p>The water is mirror-flat, though Macleod warns that winds whip up in an instant, turning the lake into a choppy hazard. We spend a while fossil-hunting on the rocky beach, uncovering ink-black shards that, according to Macleod, are million-year-old fish bones. Admittedly not the Missing Link, but not bad for half an hour’s beachcombing. Across the water, on the volcanic rocks off South Island, Nile crocodiles lounge with prehistoric menace, easing into the lake where they lie smiling beneath the surface. As we head back, the wind picks up and the boat slams from stubby wave to wave. I’m just recovering my land legs when we’re ushered into a helicopter that hurtles off, doors open for added adrenaline, for a tight circle around Nabuyatom, a spectacular inverted volcanic cone. </p><div class="n-content-layout" data-component="flourish" data-component-id="20296859" data-component-type="flourish-in-article"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-layout__container"><a href="#20296859"><picture data-asset-type="flourish" data-flourish-id="20296859" data-flourish-type="visualisation"><div id="20296859" class="cp-message o-message o-message--inform o-message--notice" data-o-component="o-message"><div class="o-message__container"><div class="o-message__content"><p class="o-message__content-main">Some content could not load. Check your internet connection or browser settings.</p></div></div></div><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fpublic.flourish.studio%2Fvisualisation%2F20296859%2Fthumbnail%3FcacheBuster%3D962430?source=cp-content-pipeline&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1020&amp;dpr=1" alt=""/></picture></a></figure></div><p>The pilot lands with pinpoint precision on the floor of a rock-strewn valley and leads us for a few minutes to a slabby escarpment whose stones have slid down over the aeons into a cracked mosaic. There, etched into the rock, are unmistakeable depictions of giraffes, made 1,500 years ago by people who must have lived here when large animals were common. Today, little game remains. The last rhino was poached several years ago. That night I wake to the clatter of the ceiling fan, confused as to whether it’s a wind turbine or the blade of a helicopter.</p><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-name="auto" data-layout-width="full-grid"><div class="n-content-layout__container"><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ad75d7336-0680-4102-b352-40d209e608fc?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ad75d7336-0680-4102-b352-40d209e608fc?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fd75d7336-0680-4102-b352-40d209e608fc.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Moses Lenina of the Turkana Basin Institute" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Moses Lenina of the Turkana Basin Institute</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="n-content-layout__slot"><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ade5aeabe-5ee6-41d1-9d98-10c043afa5d5?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ade5aeabe-5ee6-41d1-9d98-10c043afa5d5?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fde5aeabe-5ee6-41d1-9d98-10c043afa5d5.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Samburu people march through Samburuland" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Samburu people march through Samburuland</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div></div></div><p>For our final stop we fly south, leaving Turkana County and moving into Samburuland. The terrain is greener, if hardly lush. To find water, the Samburu dig into the dry riverbeds in ceremonies known as “singing wells”. The Samburu are closely related to the Maasai, the Turkana and the Pokot, all Nilotic peoples who moved south from Sudan and Ethiopia over several hundred years. Like squabbling brothers, they are locked in cycles of cattle raid and counter-raid. In 2021, Kenyan media reported 14 people dead in just one incident. </p><p>Two Samburu warriors, dressed in beads and bright kikoi skirts, their torsos naked, meet us at the airstrip. They introduce themselves as “Daniel” and “Joel”, though it transpires they are really called Legalgoroule and Loltienya, names deemed too tricky for the tourist tongue.  </p><p><a href="https://www.kalepocamp.com/" data-trackable="link">Kalepo Camp</a> charges guests a conservancy fee of $150 per night, of which 57 per cent goes to the community and 38 per cent to anti-poaching. Safari veterans Robert and Storm Mason, who opened Kalepo in late 2020, spent time running a luxury hotel in India, and it shows. Echoes of the Raj include a beige canvas camp, manicured lawn and brass fittings. All that’s missing are the polo horses. We dine at a theatrically set table under the moonlight on the sandy riverbed – a chicken curry, replete with Indian breads and chutneys. Elephants often gather at the nearby watering hole while guests quaff sauvignon blanc, but tonight the elephant in the room is that there are no elephants; it has recently rained, and evidently there is plenty of water to be had elsewhere.  </p><figure class="n-content-image n-content-image--full" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(min-width: 700px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab4b91be7-8d85-4e5a-a41a-25632fec2d01?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Ab4b91be7-8d85-4e5a-a41a-25632fec2d01?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="1920" height="2400"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2Fb4b91be7-8d85-4e5a-a41a-25632fec2d01.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Lekutano Lolmooliy, a Samburu warrior" data-image-type="image" width="1920" height="2400" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Lekutano Lolmooliy, a Samburu warrior</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure><div class="n-content-layout" data-layout-width="full-grid"><figure class="n-content-picture n-content-picture--wide n-content-layout__container" data-component="image-set"><picture><source media="(max-width: 490px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acd870d1e-6fc2-45c6-9cdd-6136ec5ee900?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acd870d1e-6fc2-45c6-9cdd-6136ec5ee900?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=2 2x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acd870d1e-6fc2-45c6-9cdd-6136ec5ee900?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=3 3x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3Acd870d1e-6fc2-45c6-9cdd-6136ec5ee900?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=490&amp;dpr=4 4x" width="2400" height="1800"/><source media="(min-width: 980px)" srcSet="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A94c6980e-c2d3-432e-a628-fc34ba051c47?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=1 1x,https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/ftcms%3A94c6980e-c2d3-432e-a628-fc34ba051c47?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=1200&amp;dpr=2 2x" width="2400" height="1800"/><img src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F5d491aeb-47d5-4103-bdee-9a40ea301e57.jpg?source=next-article&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;quality=highest&amp;width=700&amp;dpr=1" alt="Chairs around the bonfire for sundowners at Koros Camp" data-image-type="image" width="2400" height="1800" loading="lazy"/></picture><figcaption class="n-content-picture__caption"><span>Chairs around the bonfire for sundowners at Koros Camp</span><span> <!-- -->© Alex Kurunis</span></figcaption></figure></div><p>Next morning, we leave at 6am for a nearby Samburu village. Each of the 20 or so huts is surrounded by a fence; gates are always situated on the north and south of the homestead, symbolic of the Samburu’s march southwards along the River Nile. The houses are arranged in order of seniority, starting with the elder and his wives. Joel launches into an explanation of burial procedures: babies apparently are interred inside the <em>boma</em> with the goats, a grandmother gets eternal rest with the cows and younger people are buried outside the homestead. Warriors – young men who have been circumcised but cannot yet marry – don’t get buried at all. Unless they die in a cattle raid, their deaths are considered a curse, Joel says. Their bodies are laid out in the open, their heads on a wooden pillow, left for scavenging hyenas.</p><p>It sounds far-fetched, but Robert had told me the same story. A year ago, he said, a warrior had been deposited behind a nearby village. I had a vision of guests settling down to tea and scones at Kalepo while nearby hyenas tucked into something more substantial.</p><p>Daniel tells me how he got an education – the result of banishment from his house after he mislaid three of his father’s goats. Released from parental oversight, like Atabo at the Turkana institute, he found himself in a school where he excelled, mastering English. He now pays for his youngest sibling’s schooling.</p><aside aria-labelledby="aside-label" class="n-content-recommended--single-story n-content-recommended--inset" data-component="recommended"><p class="n-content-recommended__title">Recommended</p><div class="o-teaser o-teaser--article o-teaser--small o-teaser--stacked o-teaser--has-image js-teaser" data-id="939202cf-6272-4e16-873c-137cc6ed8f5d"><div class="o-teaser__content"><div class="o-teaser__meta"><a class="o-teaser__tag" data-trackable="teaser-tag" href="/content/9f16c3e2-b1dc-486d-947b-a0712b37c8fc" aria-label="Category: Where to go this autumn? The HTSI travel guide is here to help you make that booking">Where to go this autumn? The HTSI travel guide is here to help you make that booking</a></div><div class="o-teaser__heading"><a href="/content/939202cf-6272-4e16-873c-137cc6ed8f5d" data-trackable="heading-link" class="js-teaser-heading-link">Journey to Príncipe, one of the most remote destinations in the world</a></div></div><div class="o-teaser__image-container js-teaser-image-container"><a href="/content/939202cf-6272-4e16-873c-137cc6ed8f5d" data-trackable="image-link" tabindex="-1" aria-hidden="true"><div class="o-teaser__image-placeholder" style="aspect-ratio:2389/1344"><img class="o-teaser__image" src="https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ft.com%2F__origami%2Fservice%2Fimage%2Fv2%2Fimages%2Fraw%2Fhttps%253A%252F%252Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%252Fproduction%252F167fa35a-0603-4d6e-b988-4f9f66b7b9fc.jpg%3Fsource%3Dnext-article%26fit%3Dscale-down%26quality%3Dhighest%26width%3D700%26dpr%3D1?source=next&amp;fit=scale-down&amp;dpr=2&amp;width=240" alt="Santa Rita beach at Bom Bom on Príncipe"/></div></a></div></div></aside><p>Unlike Atabo, who has made a break with her Turkana heritage, Daniel, it strikes me, is an avatar of himself, an interpreter of his culture for foreign visitors. He owns goats, went through the circumcision ritual and professes a dislike for Turkana, who are not circumcised. On the other hand, he now eats vegetables – he didn’t even see one until he was eight, he claims – and wants to buy a professional camera so he can become an Instagram celebrity. “Because of education, our culture is dying,” he tells me. Whether he says so with regret or satisfaction is hard to tell. </p><p><em>David Pilling travelled as a guest of </em><a href="https://journeysbydesign.com/" data-trackable="link"><em>Journeys By Desig</em></a><em>n; a private five-night journey to Lake Turkana and the northern deserts costs from $10,835 per person including private charter aircraft and private use of Kalepo and the Koros fly camps. A separate donation is made to Turkana Basin Institute</em></p></article><script class="js-magnet-data" type="application/json">{"contentId":"84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e","annotations":[{"type":"TOPIC","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/about","prefLabel":"Travel","id":"a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2","url":"https://www.ft.com/travel"},{"type":"TOPIC","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/about","prefLabel":"Adventure holidays","id":"abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873","url":"https://www.ft.com/adventure-holidays"},{"type":"PERSON","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/hasAuthor","prefLabel":"David Pilling","id":"10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0","url":"https://www.ft.com/david-pilling"},{"type":"ORGANISATION","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"Cessna Aircraft Co","id":"0ec58833-58ee-4773-ac9b-109105f6f01e","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/0ec58833-58ee-4773-ac9b-109105f6f01e"},{"type":"PERSON","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"David Pilling","id":"10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0","url":"https://www.ft.com/david-pilling"},{"type":"ORGANISATION","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"Instagram","id":"4fffeec7-9598-4f59-8444-11c7fa2e8803","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/4fffeec7-9598-4f59-8444-11c7fa2e8803"},{"type":"PERSON","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"Marie Kondo","id":"81ee830a-f3d9-3287-ae36-83c7051abc2e","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/81ee830a-f3d9-3287-ae36-83c7051abc2e"},{"type":"ORGANISATION","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"Turkana Basin Institute","id":"9f7902cd-bda3-3499-9441-c08988312339","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/9f7902cd-bda3-3499-9441-c08988312339"},{"type":"PERSON","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/annotation/mentions","prefLabel":"Richard Leakey","id":"ede0c4e4-cfdc-47a0-b360-48f270281a45","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/ede0c4e4-cfdc-47a0-b360-48f270281a45"},{"type":"GENRE","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/classification/isClassifiedBy","prefLabel":"Feature","id":"06610896-2754-4847-a48f-9363d18a8c5e","url":"https://www.ft.com/stream/06610896-2754-4847-a48f-9363d18a8c5e"},{"type":"BRAND","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/classification/isClassifiedBy","prefLabel":"HTSI","id":"9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1","url":"https://www.ft.com/htsi"},{"type":"TOPIC","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/hasDisplayTag","prefLabel":"Travel","id":"a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2","url":"https://www.ft.com/travel"},{"type":"TOPIC","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/implicitlyAbout","prefLabel":"Life & Arts","id":"0b83bc44-4a55-4958-882e-73ba6b2b0aa6","url":"https://www.ft.com/life-arts"},{"type":"BRAND","predicate":"http://www.ft.com/ontology/implicitlyClassifiedBy","prefLabel":"Financial Times","id":"dbb0bdae-1f0c-11e4-b0cb-b2227cce2b54","url":"https://www.ft.com"}]}</script><div class="magnet-cta js-magnet-cta" data-trackable="magnet-cta"></div></div><div class="article-tools" data-trackable="article-tools"><footer class="n-content-copyright"><a href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal-privacy/copyright/copyright-policy/" data-trackable="link-copyright">Copyright</a> <!-- -->The Financial Times Limited <!-- -->2024<!-- -->.<!-- --> <span class="n-content-copyright__rights">All rights reserved.</span></footer><div class="article-tools__buttons"><a class="article-tools__reuse" data-trackable="reuse-content-button" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" href="https://enterprise.ft.com/en-gb/services/republishing/republish-content-request?ft-content-uuid=84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e">Reuse this content<!-- --> <span class="o-normalise-visually-hidden">(opens in new window)</span></a><a class="article-tools__comments" data-trackable="view-comments-button" title="Jump to comments section" aria-label="click to go to the comment section" href="#comments-anchor"><span data-o-component="o-comments" data-o-comments-article-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-o-comments-count="false"></span> <!-- -->Comments<span class="o-normalise-visually-hidden">Jump to comments section</span></a></div></div><div class="article__right " data-component="article-rhr"></div><div class="promoted-content__container"><h2 class="h2-promoted-content follow-tags__title" style="display:none">Promoted Content</h2><div class="o-ads o-ads--center native-ad__fullwidth" data-o-ads-init="true" data-o-ads-name="native-ad__fullwidth" data-o-ads-targeting="pos=native&amp;format=stacked&amp;appname=article" data-o-ads-formats="MediumRectangle" data-o-ads-formats-default="PartnerContent"></div></div><div class="onward-journey onward-journey--simple" data-component="onward-journey__bottom" data-trackable-context-component="{&quot;name&quot;:&quot;onward-journey&quot;,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;container&quot;,&quot;app&quot;:&quot;article&quot;,&quot;asset_type&quot;:&quot;page&quot;}"></div><div class="article__right-bottom"><div><div class="concept-list" data-trackable="mentions"> <h2 class="concept-list__title"> Follow the topics in this article </h2> <ul class="concept-list__list"> <li class="concept-list__list-item"> <a href="/travel" data-trackable="concept" class="concept-list__concept"> Travel </a> <form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--follow " method="GET" data-myft-ui="follow" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" action="/myft/add/a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/followed/concept/a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2?method=put" > <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Now following Travel." data-unpressed-text="No longer following Travel." ></div> <button aria-pressed="false" aria-label="Add to myFT: Travel" title="Add Travel to myFT" data-alternate-label="Added Travel to myFT: click to remove" data-alternate-text="Added" class=" n-myft-follow-button" data-concept-id="a234286c-3a51-43d6-8cf1-b9fa1588dfe2" data-trackable="follow" type="submit">Add to myFT</button> </form> </li> <li class="concept-list__list-item"> <a href="/adventure-holidays" data-trackable="concept" class="concept-list__concept"> Adventure holidays </a> <form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--follow " method="GET" data-myft-ui="follow" data-concept-id="abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873" action="/myft/add/abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/followed/concept/abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873?method=put" > <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Now following Adventure holidays." data-unpressed-text="No longer following Adventure holidays." ></div> <button aria-pressed="false" aria-label="Add to myFT: Adventure holidays" title="Add Adventure holidays to myFT" data-alternate-label="Added Adventure holidays to myFT: click to remove" data-alternate-text="Added" class=" n-myft-follow-button" data-concept-id="abae2485-d2a3-4fb4-9a28-1e4c08db6873" data-trackable="follow" type="submit">Add to myFT</button> </form> </li> <li class="concept-list__list-item"> <a href="/htsi" data-trackable="concept" class="concept-list__concept"> HTSI </a> <form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--follow " method="GET" data-myft-ui="follow" data-concept-id="9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1" action="/myft/add/9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/followed/concept/9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1?method=put" > <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Now following HTSI." data-unpressed-text="No longer following HTSI." ></div> <button aria-pressed="false" aria-label="Add to myFT: HTSI" title="Add HTSI to myFT" data-alternate-label="Added HTSI to myFT: click to remove" data-alternate-text="Added" class=" n-myft-follow-button" data-concept-id="9c3dfbf3-bb6c-4e46-b766-a50f547643e1" data-trackable="follow" type="submit">Add to myFT</button> </form> </li> <li class="concept-list__list-item"> <a href="/david-pilling" data-trackable="concept" class="concept-list__concept"> David Pilling </a> <form class="n-myft-ui n-myft-ui--follow " method="GET" data-myft-ui="follow" data-concept-id="10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0" action="/myft/add/10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0" data-js-action="/__myft/api/core/followed/concept/10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0?method=put" > <input data-myft-csrf-token value="" type="hidden" name="token"> <div class="n-myft-ui__announcement o-normalise-visually-hidden" aria-live="assertive" data-pressed-text="Now following David Pilling." data-unpressed-text="No longer following David Pilling." ></div> <button aria-pressed="false" aria-label="Add to myFT: David Pilling" title="Add David Pilling to myFT" data-alternate-label="Added David Pilling to myFT: click to remove" data-alternate-text="Added" class=" n-myft-follow-button" data-concept-id="10d5a851-a3bb-4683-be7b-227b3aa47af0" data-trackable="follow" type="submit">Add to myFT</button> </form> </li> </ul> </div></div></div><div class="comments-container"><h2 class="standalone-teaser-heading">Comments</h2><div id="comments-anchor"><div class="comments"><div class="comments__rum-indicator"></div><div class="o-comments" id="o-comments-stream" data-o-component="o-comments" data-o-comments-use-staging-environment="false" data-o-comments-article-id="84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-o-comments-title="Journey to Kenya, and the cradle of man" data-o-comments-article-url="https://www.ft.com/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"></div></div></div></div><div class="comments-rhr"></div></article></div></div></div></div><div class="n-layout__row n-layout__row--footer"><footer id="site-footer" class="o-footer o-footer--theme-dark" data-o-component="o-footer"><div class="o-footer__container"><div class="o-footer__row"><h2 class="o-normalise-visually-hidden">Useful links</h2><nav class="o-footer__matrix" role="navigation" aria-label="Useful links"><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title" aria-controls="o-footer-section-0">Support</h3><div class="o-footer__matrix-content" id="o-footer-section-0"><div class="o-footer__matrix-column"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/tour" data-trackable="View Site Tips"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">View Site Tips</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com" data-trackable="Help Centre"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Help Centre</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://aboutus.ft.com/contact-us" data-trackable="Contact Us"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Contact Us</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://www.ft.com/aboutus" data-trackable="About Us"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">About Us</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/accessibility" data-trackable="Accessibility"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Accessibility</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/tour/myft" data-trackable="myFT Tour"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">myFT Tour</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://aboutus.ft.com/en-gb/careers/" data-trackable="Careers"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Careers</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://aboutus.ft.com/suppliers" data-trackable="Suppliers"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Suppliers</span></a></div></div></div><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title" aria-controls="o-footer-section-1">Legal &amp; Privacy</h3><div class="o-footer__matrix-content" id="o-footer-section-1"><div class="o-footer__matrix-column"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal-privacy/terms-conditions/" data-trackable="Terms &amp; Conditions"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Terms &amp; Conditions</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal-privacy/privacy/" data-trackable="Privacy Policy"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Privacy Policy</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal-privacy/cookies/" data-trackable="Cookie Policy"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Cookie Policy</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://www.ft.com/preferences/manage-cookies" data-trackable="Manage Cookies"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Manage Cookies</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal-privacy/copyright/copyright-policy/" data-trackable="Copyright"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Copyright</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://help.ft.com/help/legal/slavery-statement/" data-trackable="Slavery Statement &amp; Policies"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Slavery Statement &amp; Policies</span></a></div></div></div><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title" aria-controls="o-footer-section-2">Services</h3><div class="o-footer__matrix-content" id="o-footer-section-2"><div class="o-footer__matrix-column"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/securedrop" data-trackable="Share News Tips Securely" data-o-tracking-do-not-track="true"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Share News Tips Securely</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://www.ft.com/products" data-trackable="Individual Subscriptions"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Individual Subscriptions</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://professional.ft.com/en-gb/services/professional-subscriptions?segmentId=383c7f[…]4-b62d-cb33-4c278e6fdf61&amp;cpccampaign=B2B_link_ft.com_footer" data-trackable="Professional Subscriptions"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Professional Subscriptions</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://professional.ft.com/en-gb/services/republishing/" data-trackable="Republishing"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Republishing</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://www.exec-appointments.com/" data-trackable="Executive Job Search"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Executive Job Search</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://commercial.ft.com/" data-trackable="Advertise with the FT"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Advertise with the FT</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://twitter.com/ft" data-trackable="Follow the FT on X"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Follow the FT on X</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://channels.ft.com/" data-trackable="FT Channels"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Channels</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://enterprise.ft.com/en-gb/services/group-subscriptions/secondary-education/" data-trackable="FT Schools"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Schools</span></a></div></div></div><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title" aria-controls="o-footer-section-3">Tools</h3><div class="o-footer__matrix-content" id="o-footer-section-3"><div class="o-footer__matrix-column"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://markets.ft.com/data/portfolio/dashboard" data-trackable="Portfolio"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Portfolio</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://applink.ft.com/A6lV/2khsqyrh" data-trackable="FT App"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT App</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://www.ft.com/todaysnewspaper" data-trackable="FT Digital Edition"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Digital Edition</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://ftedit.ft.com/Ju3k/pqkac2ds" data-trackable="FT Edit"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Edit</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://markets.ft.com/data/alerts/" data-trackable="Alerts Hub"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Alerts Hub</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://rankings.ft.com/business-education" data-trackable="Business School Rankings"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Business School Rankings</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://subscription-manager.ft.com/" data-trackable="Subscription Manager"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Subscription Manager</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/news-feed" data-trackable="News feed"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">News feed</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="/newsletters" data-trackable="Newsletters"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Newsletters</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://markets.ft.com/data/currencies" data-trackable="Currency Converter"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Currency Converter</span></a></div></div></div><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title" aria-controls="o-footer-section-4">Community &amp; Events</h3><div class="o-footer__matrix-content" id="o-footer-section-4"><div class="o-footer__matrix-column"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://events.ft.com/events-list" data-trackable="FT Live Events"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Live Events</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://forums.ft.com/" data-trackable="FT Forums"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">FT Forums</span></a><a class="o-footer__matrix-link" href="https://bdp.ft.com/" data-trackable="Board Director Programme"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">Board Director Programme</span></a></div></div></div><div class="o-footer__matrix-group o-footer__matrix-group--1"><h3 class="o-footer__matrix-title o-footer__matrix-title--link"><a class="o-footer__matrix-link o-footer__matrix-link--more" id="o-footer-5" href="https://ft.com/more-from-ft-group"><span class="o-footer__matrix-link__copy">More from the FT Group</span></a></h3></div></nav></div><div class="o-footer__copyright"><small>Markets data delayed by at least 15 minutes. © THE FINANCIAL TIMES LTD 2024. <abbr title="Financial Times" aria-label="F T">FT</abbr> and ‘Financial Times’ are trademarks of The Financial Times Ltd.<br/>The Financial Times and its journalism are subject to a self-regulation regime under the <a href="https://aboutus.ft.com/en-gb/ft-editorial-code/" aria-label="F T Editorial Code of Practice">FT Editorial Code of Practice</a>.</small></div></div><div class="o-footer__brand"><div class="o-footer__container"><div class="o-footer__brand-logo"></div></div></div></footer><div class="n-layout__footer-after"><script data-pixel-src="https://spoor-api.ft.com/px.gif?data=%7B%22category%22%3A%22page%22%2C%22action%22%3A%22view%22%2C%22system%22%3A%7B%22source%22%3A%22non-ctm%22%7D%2C%22context%22%3A%7B%22name%22%3A%22article%22%2C%22product%22%3A%22next%22%2C%22data%22%3A%7B%22source%22%3A%22%5BSOURCE%5D%22%7D%7D%7D">(function coreExperience() { if (/\bcore\b/.test(document.documentElement.className)) { // eslint-disable-next-line no-var var currentScript = document.scripts[document.scripts.length - 1]; // eslint-disable-next-line no-var var img = new Image(); img.alt = ''; img.src = currentScript.getAttribute('data-pixel-src'); } })();</script><noscript><img src="https://spoor-api.ft.com/px.gif?data=%7B%22category%22%3A%22page%22%2C%22action%22%3A%22view%22%2C%22system%22%3A%7B%22source%22%3A%22non-ctm%22%7D%2C%22context%22%3A%7B%22name%22%3A%22article%22%2C%22product%22%3A%22next%22%2C%22data%22%3A%7B%22source%22%3A%22%5BSOURCE%5D%22%7D%7D%7D" alt=""/></noscript><script id="chartbeat-script"> ;(function() { if (/\bcore\b/.test(document.documentElement.className)) { console.warn('Chartbeat not loaded: Core browser') return; } const testing = new URL(location).searchParams.has('chartbeatTest') || false; window._sf_async_config = { uid: 14181, domain: testing ? 'testing.ft.com' : 'ft.com', useCanonical: true, useCanonicalDomain: true, topStorageDomain: 'ft.com', }; const script = document.createElement('script'); script.async = true; script.src = 'https://static.chartbeat.com/js/chartbeat.js'; const last = document.scripts[document.scripts.length - 1]; last.parentNode.insertBefore(script, last); })(); </script></div></div><div class="o-header__drawer" id="o-header-drawer" role="modal" aria-label="Drawer menu" aria-modal="true" data-o-header-drawer="true" data-o-header-drawer--no-js="true" data-trackable="drawer" data-trackable-terminate="true"><div class="o-header__drawer-inner"><div class="o-header__drawer-tools"><button type="button" class="o-header__drawer-tools-close" title="Close side navigation menu" aria-controls="o-header-drawer" data-trackable="close"><span class="o-header__visually-hidden">Close side navigation menu</span></button><nav class="o-header__drawer-menu o-header__drawer-edition-switcher" aria-label="Edition switcher"><span class="o-header__drawer-menu-item">Edition:</span><span class="o-header__drawer-menu-item o-header__drawer-current-edition">International</span><div class="o-header__drawer-divider"></div><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link" href="/?edition=uk">UK</a></nav></div><div class="o-header__drawer-search"><form class="o-header__drawer-search-form" action="/search" role="search" aria-label="Site search" data-n-topic-search="true"><label for="o-header-drawer-search-term" class="o-forms-field o-forms-field--optional"><span class="o-forms-title o-header__visually-hidden"><span class="o-forms-title__main">Search the <abbr title="Financial Times">FT</abbr></span></span><span class="o-forms-input o-forms-input--text o-forms-input--suffix"><input type="search" id="o-header-drawer-search-term" name="q" autoComplete="off" autoCorrect="off" autoCapitalize="off" spellcheck="false" data-trackable="search-term" data-n-topic-search-input="true" placeholder="Search for stories, topics or securities" role="combobox" aria-controls="suggestions-o-header-drawer-search-term" data-n-topic-search-drawer="true"/><button class="o-header__drawer-search-submit" type="submit" data-trackable="search-submit"><span class="o-header__visually-hidden">Search</span></button></span></label></form></div><div class="o-header__drawer-actions"><a class="o-header__drawer-button" role="button" href="/products?segmentId=4526c036-7527-ab37-9a29-0b0403fa0b5f" data-trackable="subscribe-button">Subscribe for full access</a></div><nav class="o-header__drawer-menu o-header__drawer-menu--primary"><h2 id="top-sections" class="o-header__drawer-menu-item o-header__drawer-menu-item--heading">Top sections</h2><ul aria-labelledby="top-sections" class="o-header__drawer-menu-list"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/" data-trackable="Home">Home</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/world" data-trackable="World">World</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-1" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | World">Show more World</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-1" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/middle-east-war" data-trackable="Middle East war">Middle East war</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/global-economy" data-trackable="Global Economy">Global Economy</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/world-uk" data-trackable="UK">UK</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/us" data-trackable="US">US</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/china" data-trackable="China">China</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/africa" data-trackable="Africa">Africa</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/asia-pacific" data-trackable="Asia Pacific">Asia Pacific</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/emerging-markets" data-trackable="Emerging Markets">Emerging Markets</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/europe" data-trackable="Europe">Europe</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/war-in-ukraine" data-trackable="War in Ukraine">War in Ukraine</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/americas" data-trackable="Americas">Americas</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/middle-east-north-africa" data-trackable="Middle East &amp; North Africa">Middle East &amp; North Africa</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/us" data-trackable="US">US</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-2" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | US">Show more US</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-2" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/us-economy" data-trackable="US Economy">US Economy</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/investing-in-america" data-trackable="Investing in America">Investing in America</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/us-companies" data-trackable="US Companies">US Companies</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/us-politics-policy" data-trackable="US Politics &amp; Policy">US Politics &amp; Policy</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/us-presidential-election-2024" data-trackable="US Presidential Election 2024">US Presidential Election 2024</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/companies" data-trackable="Companies">Companies</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-3" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Companies">Show more Companies</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-3" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/energy" data-trackable="Energy">Energy</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/financials" data-trackable="Financials">Financials</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/health" data-trackable="Health">Health</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/industrials" data-trackable="Industrials">Industrials</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/media" data-trackable="Media">Media</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/professional-services" data-trackable="Professional Services">Professional Services</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/retail-consumer" data-trackable="Retail &amp; Consumer">Retail &amp; Consumer</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/technology-sector" data-trackable="Tech Sector">Tech Sector</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/telecoms" data-trackable="Telecoms">Telecoms</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/transport" data-trackable="Transport">Transport</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/technology" data-trackable="Tech">Tech</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-4" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Tech">Show more Tech</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-4" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/artificial-intelligence" data-trackable="Artificial intelligence">Artificial intelligence</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/semiconductors" data-trackable="Semiconductors">Semiconductors</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/cyber-security" data-trackable="Cyber Security">Cyber Security</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/social-media" data-trackable="Social Media">Social Media</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/markets" data-trackable="Markets">Markets</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-5" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Markets">Show more Markets</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-5" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/alphaville" data-trackable="Alphaville">Alphaville</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="https://markets.ft.com/data" data-trackable="Markets Data">Markets Data</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/crypto" data-trackable="Crypto">Crypto</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/capital-markets" data-trackable="Capital Markets">Capital Markets</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/commodities" data-trackable="Commodities">Commodities</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/currencies" data-trackable="Currencies">Currencies</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/equities" data-trackable="Equities">Equities</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/ft-wealth-management" data-trackable="Wealth Management">Wealth Management</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/moral-money" data-trackable="Moral Money">Moral Money</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="https://etf.ft.com" data-trackable="ETF Hub">ETF Hub</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/fund-management" data-trackable="Fund Management">Fund Management</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/ft-trading-room" data-trackable="Trading">Trading</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/climate-capital" data-trackable="Climate">Climate</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/opinion" data-trackable="Opinion">Opinion</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-7" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Opinion">Show more Opinion</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-7" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/columnists" data-trackable="Columnists">Columnists</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/ft-view" data-trackable="The FT View">The FT View</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/the-big-read" data-trackable="The Big Read">The Big Read</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/lex" data-trackable="Lex">Lex</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/obituaries" data-trackable="Obituaries">Obituaries</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/letters" data-trackable="Letters">Letters</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/lex" data-trackable="Lex">Lex</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/work-careers" data-trackable="Work &amp; Careers">Work &amp; Careers</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-9" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Work &amp; Careers">Show more Work &amp; Careers</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-9" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="https://rankings.ft.com/business-education" data-trackable="Business School Rankings">Business School Rankings</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/business-education" data-trackable="Business Education">Business Education</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="https://rankings.ft.com/incubator-accelerator-programmes-europe" data-trackable="Europe&#x27;s Start-Up Hubs">Europe&#x27;s Start-Up Hubs</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/entrepreneurship" data-trackable="Entrepreneurship">Entrepreneurship</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/recruitment" data-trackable="Recruitment">Recruitment</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/business-books" data-trackable="Business Books">Business Books</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/business-travel" data-trackable="Business Travel">Business Travel</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/working-it" data-trackable="Working It">Working It</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/life-arts" data-trackable="Life &amp; Arts">Life &amp; Arts</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-10" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Life &amp; Arts">Show more Life &amp; Arts</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-10" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/arts" data-trackable="Arts">Arts</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/books" data-trackable="Books">Books</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/food-drink" data-trackable="Food &amp; Drink">Food &amp; Drink</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/magazine" data-trackable="FT Magazine">FT Magazine</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/house-home" data-trackable="House &amp; Home">House &amp; Home</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/style" data-trackable="Style">Style</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/travel" data-trackable="Travel">Travel</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/globetrotter" data-trackable="FT Globetrotter">FT Globetrotter</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><div class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle-wrapper"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--parent" href="/personal-finance" data-trackable="Personal Finance">Personal Finance</a><button class="o-header__drawer-menu-toggle o-header__drawer-menu-toggle--unselected" aria-controls="o-header-drawer-child-11" data-trackable="sub-level-toggle | Personal Finance">Show more Personal Finance</button></div><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--child" id="o-header-drawer-child-11" data-trackable="sub-level"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/mortgages" data-trackable="Property &amp; Mortgages">Property &amp; Mortgages</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/investments" data-trackable="Investments">Investments</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/pensions" data-trackable="Pensions">Pensions</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/tax" data-trackable="Tax">Tax</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/banking-savings" data-trackable="Banking &amp; Savings">Banking &amp; Savings</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/advice-comment" data-trackable="Advice &amp; Comment">Advice &amp; Comment</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--child" href="/next-act" data-trackable="Next Act">Next Act</a></li></ul></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/htsi" data-trackable="HTSI">HTSI</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/special-reports" data-trackable="Special Reports">Special Reports</a></li></ul><h2 id="ft-recommends" class="o-header__drawer-menu-item o-header__drawer-menu-item--heading">FT recommends</h2><ul aria-labelledby="ft-recommends" class="o-header__drawer-menu-list"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/alphaville" data-trackable="Alphaville">Alphaville</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/ft-edit" data-trackable="FT Edit">FT Edit</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/lunch-with-the-ft" data-trackable="Lunch with the FT">Lunch with the FT</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/globetrotter" data-trackable="FT Globetrotter">FT Globetrotter</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="https://www.ft.com/tech-asia" data-trackable="#techAsia">#techAsia</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/moral-money" data-trackable="Moral Money">Moral Money</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/visual-and-data-journalism" data-trackable="Visual and data journalism">Visual and data journalism</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/newsletters" data-trackable="Newsletters">Newsletters</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/video" data-trackable="Video">Video</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="https://www.ft.com/podcasts" data-trackable="Podcasts">Podcasts</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/news-feed" data-trackable="News feed">News feed</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="/ft-schools" data-trackable="FT Schools">FT Schools</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="https://events.ft.com/events-list" data-trackable="FT Live Events">FT Live Events</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="https://forums.ft.com/" data-trackable="FT Forums">FT Forums</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected" href="https://bdp.ft.com/" data-trackable="Board Director Programme">Board Director Programme</a></li></ul><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list o-header__drawer-menu-list--divide"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--secondary" href="/myft" data-trackable="myFT">myFT</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--secondary" href="https://markets.ft.com/data/portfolio/dashboard" data-trackable="Portfolio">Portfolio</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--secondary" href="https://www.ft.com/todaysnewspaper" data-trackable="FT Digital Edition">FT Digital Edition</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--secondary" href="https://www.ft.com/crossword" data-trackable="Crossword">Crossword</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link o-header__drawer-menu-link--unselected o-header__drawer-menu-link--secondary" href="https://www.ft.com/tour/apps" data-trackable="Our Apps">Our Apps</a></li></ul></nav><nav class="o-header__drawer-menu o-header__drawer-menu--user" data-trackable="user-nav"><ul class="o-header__drawer-menu-list"><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link" href="https://help.ft.com" data-trackable="Help Centre">Help Centre</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link" href="/products?segmentId=d290332b-e8e8-d29b-2ff4-2019b13f008a" data-trackable="Subscribe">Subscribe</a></li><li class="o-header__drawer-menu-item"><a class="o-header__drawer-menu-link" href="/login?location=/content/84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e" data-trackable="Sign In">Sign In</a></li></ul></nav></div></div></div><script type="application/json" id="page-kit-app-context">{"appName":"article","product":"next","edition":"international","appVersion":"75fc47386de91f1e86db816f062d17d56d5199e2","abTestState":"messageSlotBottom:cookieConsentC,chartbeat:variant,articlecommunitypromoevent:variant2,articleJourneyTestsX:variant1,AdsCommercialMvt2AB:variant3,appleSignUpForBuyFlowTest:variant,useContentPipelineCannedQuery:variant","isProduction":true,"isUserLoggedIn":false,"pageKitVersion":"11.2.1","contentId":"84473c6c-c7ac-4cd7-94ec-90c2ce61d22e"}</script><script type="application/json" id="page-kit-flags-embed">{"articleRelatedContent":true,"ads":true,"javascript":true,"oTracking":true,"articleComments":true,"myFtApi":true,"articleShareButtons":true,"myFtApiWrite":true,"adTargetingUserApi":true,"videoPlayerAdvertising":true,"streamMostRead":true,"openGraph":true,"nativeAds":true,"regionalNews":true,"syndication":true,"myFTEmailDisableABAlloc":true,"streamRecommendedStoriesList":true,"refererCohort":true,"newsletterSignupOnArticle":true,"myFTInstantNotifications":true,"myftPrioritiseTopics":true,"myftIndustryRecs":true,"showEventPromo":true,"myftConsentSwitch":true,"manageCookiesWhiteLabel":true,"myftIndustryRecsFeed":true,"AdsPermutive":true,"syndication_promo":true,"messageSlotBottom":"cookieConsentC","enableGTM":true,"myftNewNewLabel":true,"myftBoldNewArticles":true,"myftPageAppNotificationsToggle":true,"realUserMonitoringForPerformance":true,"textCopyTracking":true,"enableBrandmetricsSurveyScript":true,"managePremiumCancellationJourney":true,"articleInstantAlertsPromo":true,"manageStepUpCancellationJourney":true,"manageStandardCancellationJourney":true,"manageStepUpTransitionJourney":true,"manageDirectCancellationJourney":true,"privShowCCPALinkOnFooter":true,"optimizely":true,"graphicSyndication":true,"adsNativeLazyload":true,"enableRavelinOnProd":true,"enableMarketingAnalyticsTags":true,"streamPageGraphicsList":true,"useFlourish":true,"adsHighImpact":true,"monthlyTermForPremiumCovidCohort":true,"enableNonUKDeliveryAddress":true,"homePageHeaderMarketsData":true,"enableGoogleExtendedMeter":true,"inArticleContentSignUp":true,"frontPageCommunitySection":true,"newBuyFlow":true,"bizzaboRegistrationEnabled":true,"enableSingleTermSubscriptions":true,"newsletterAutoEnrolment":true,"eventsInMyFtPage":true,"eventsInDigestEmails":true,"eventsInStreamPage":true,"ftGlobetrotterBanner":true,"scrollytellingImages":true,"chartbeat":"variant","emailVerificationOnSignupForms":true,"AdsExtraMobileSlot":true,"dotcomPages":true,"fomoPage":true,"exponeaOnsiteMessaging":true,"homepageInteractivesEmbeds":true,"bankTransferFeature":true,"articlecommunitypromoevent":"variant2","purgeableLongTailArticleCaching":true,"myAccountLanding":true,"chatterboxChat":true,"liveChat":true,"articleJourneyTestsX":"variant1","billingDetailsConfirmationPage":true,"AdsCompaniesTypeaheadDemo":true,"AdsCommercialMvt2AB":"variant3","reverseCancellation":true,"adsPGHomePage":true,"saveMeDisplayEdit":true,"adsCommentsRHR":true,"adsPGSearchPage":true,"stripeForIndia":true,"showNoOffersPageInRetention":true,"adsDisableInternalCMP":true,"myFTInstantAlertsOnboarding":true,"proCentralBanking":true,"magnetOnArticle":true,"myftFollowButton":true,"customCodeComponent":true,"extensibleFrontends":true,"adsAppDisableInternalCMP":true,"experimentalAccountEntryTest":true,"enableSubX":true,"homepageClips":true,"enableAppleSignUpForRegFlow":true,"enableAppleSignUpForBuyFlow":true,"workspaceTeaserContextMenu":true,"appleSignUpForBuyFlowTest":"variant","personalFinanceCourseOfferSubscriberRenewalJourney":true,"retentionDirectToSeperateCancelCompareController":true,"enableCorporateBarrier":true,"useContentPipelineCannedQuery":"variant","nextBestOfferRelaunch":true,"onboardingCsatSurveyEnabled":true,"adsInsertTexasDNSLink":true,"pro-signup-welcome-page-v2-enabled":true,"inArticleContentSignUpUSElectionNewsletter":true,"enableFTEditRegisterFlow":true,"backToTopButton":true,"adsEnableGpp":true,"enableStepUpNBO":true,"amplitudeExperiment":true,"pro-signup-onboarding-enabled":true,"useFlourishIFrame":true,"commentsOnlySubscriber":true,"pro-workspace-recommendation-cards-enabled":true,"articleToolsBox":true,"adsEnableFullBleedResponsive":true,"accountSettingsBillingDetailsPaypal":true,"adsVideoPageConsent":true,"clipsEnhancedPlayer":true,"adsEnableMiniBillboard":true,"ads-refresh-pc":true,"enableProfessionalSubscriptionCheck":true,"ads-validate-traffic-ias":true,"adsEnableMiniBillboardWeb":true,"adsMarketsDataWidget":true,"adsArticlePcStyling":true,"ads-adblock-recovery":true,"mprHomePageSlice":true,"liveChatProjectFelix":true,"liveBlogPagination":true,"enableWhiteHouseWatchNewsletterSignup":true,"articleBulletPointSummary":true}</script></body></html>

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10