CINXE.COM

<!doctype html> <html lang="en" class="no-js b-pw-1280 b-reith-sans-font b-reith-serif-font b-reith-serif-loaded b-reith-sans-loaded"> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=7YQSqjSh" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("https://www.bbc.com/travel","20220425054944","https://web.archive.org/","web","https://web-static.archive.org/_static/", "1650865784"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=p7PEIJWi" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta data-rh="true" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/><meta data-rh="true" charset="utf-8"/><meta data-rh="true" name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta data-rh="true" name="keywords" content="INDEX"/><meta data-rh="true" name="description" content="The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing."/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:type" content="website"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:width" content="624"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:height" content="351"/><meta data-rh="true" property="fb:pages" content="147105585468223"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:site" content="@bbc_travel"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/> <title data-rh="true">Home - BBC Travel</title> <link data-rh="true" rel="canonical" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><link data-rh="true" rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="180x180" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/travel/apple-touch-icon.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="32x32" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/travel/favicon-32x32.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="16x16" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/travel/favicon-16x16.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="shortcut icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/travel/favicon.ico"/><link data-rh="true" rel="mask-icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/travel/safari-pinned-tab.svg" color="#063d90"/><link data-rh="true" rel="manifest" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/worklife/assets/travel/site.webmanifest"/> <script> window.orb_fig_blocking = true; </script> <script type="text/javascript"> /* IE11 polyfills */ if (!('values' in Object)) { Object.prototype.constructor.values = function(o) { if (typeof o !== 'object') return console.error('not an object') return Object.keys(o).map(function(k) { return o[k] }) } } if (!('find' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.find = function(fn) { for (let i = 0; i < this.length; i += 1) { if (fn.call(this, this[i], i)) return this[i]; } return undefined; } } if (!('includes' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.includes = function(search) { return this.indexOf(search) > -1 } } </script> <script>document.documentElement.className = document.documentElement.className.replace('no-js', '');</script>   <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"> <style> :root { --bbc-font: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; --bbc-font-legacy: Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; } </style> <script nomodule type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/polyfills.js"></script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/css/orbit-v4-ltr.min.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/require.min.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.orbitData = {}; var additionalPageProperties = {}; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_5'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_1'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_3'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_9'] = '1' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_10'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_6'] = '' || null; window.orbitData.userProfileUrl = "https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/userprofile"; window.page = { name: 'travel.page' || null, destination: 'FEATURE_SITES_GNL' || null, producer: 'GNL_TRAVEL' || null, section: '' || null, site: '' || null, contentId: '' || null, contentType: 'index-home' || null, edition: '' || null, additionalProperties: additionalPageProperties }; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.modal = false; </script> <script type="text/javascript">!function(){var t={53:function(t,e,r){function n(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function o(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?n(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){i(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):n(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function i(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}var c=r(206),u=r(189);window.bbcpage=c.init(o({},window.page)),window.page=void 0,window.bbcuser=u.init(window,o({},window.user)),window.user=void 0},206:function(t){function e(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function r(t){for(var r=1;r<arguments.length;r++){var o=null!=arguments[r]?arguments[r]:{};r%2?e(Object(o),!0).forEach((function(e){n(t,e,o[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(o)):e(Object(o)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(o,e))}))}return t}function n(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}t.exports={init:function(t){var e=r({},t);return document.addEventListener("bbc-page-reset",(function(t){var r;t.detail&&t.detail.page&&(r=t.detail.page,e=Object.assign(e,r)),document.dispatchEvent(new Event("bbc-page-updated"))})),{getName:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.name||function(){if("file:"===window.location.protocol)return"local.file";var t=window.location.pathname.replace(/\/$/,"").replace(/^\//,"").replace(/\//g,".");return"".concat(t,".page")}())},getLanguage:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.language)},getDestination:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.destination)},getProducer:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.producer)},getSection:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.section)},getContentType:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentType)},getContentId:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentId)},getReferrer:function(){return Promise.resolve(window.orb&&null!==window.orb.referrer&&void 0!==window.orb.referrer?window.orb.referrer:document.referrer)},getAdditionalProperties:function(){return Promise.resolve(r({},e.additionalProperties))},loadCSS:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){var n=document.createElement("link");n.type="text/css",n.rel="stylesheet",n.onload=function(){e()},n.href=t,document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(n)}))},isModal:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.modal)}}}}},189:function(t,e,r){function n(t){return(n="function"==typeof Symbol&&"symbol"==typeof Symbol.iterator?function(t){return typeof t}:function(t){return t&&"function"==typeof Symbol&&t.constructor===Symbol&&t!==Symbol.prototype?"symbol":typeof t})(t)}function o(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function i(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?o(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){c(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):o(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function c(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}function u(t,e){if(!(t instanceof e))throw new TypeError("Cannot call a class as a function")}function a(t,e){if(e&&("object"===n(e)||"function"==typeof e))return e;if(void 0!==e)throw new TypeError("Derived constructors may only return object or undefined");return function(t){if(void 0===t)throw new ReferenceError("this hasn't been initialised - super() hasn't been called");return t}(t)}function f(t){var e="function"==typeof Map?new Map:void 0;return(f=function(t){if(null===t||(r=t,-1===Function.toString.call(r).indexOf("[native code]")))return t;var r;if("function"!=typeof t)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");if(void 0!==e){if(e.has(t))return e.get(t);e.set(t,n)}function n(){return s(t,arguments,h(this).constructor)}return n.prototype=Object.create(t.prototype,{constructor:{value:n,enumerable:!1,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),p(n,t)})(t)}function s(t,e,r){return(s=l()?Reflect.construct:function(t,e,r){var n=[null];n.push.apply(n,e);var o=new(Function.bind.apply(t,n));return r&&p(o,r.prototype),o}).apply(null,arguments)}function l(){if("undefined"==typeof Reflect||!Reflect.construct)return!1;if(Reflect.construct.sham)return!1;if("function"==typeof Proxy)return!0;try{return Boolean.prototype.valueOf.call(Reflect.construct(Boolean,[],(function(){}))),!0}catch(t){return!1}}function p(t,e){return(p=Object.setPrototypeOf||function(t,e){return t.__proto__=e,t})(t,e)}function h(t){return(h=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.getPrototypeOf:function(t){return t.__proto__||Object.getPrototypeOf(t)})(t)}var d=r(11).loadModule,y=function(t){!function(t,e){if("function"!=typeof e&&null!==e)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");t.prototype=Object.create(e&&e.prototype,{constructor:{value:t,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),Object.defineProperty(t,"prototype",{writable:!1}),e&&p(t,e)}(o,t);var e,r,n=(e=o,r=l(),function(){var t,n=h(e);if(r){var o=h(this).constructor;t=Reflect.construct(n,arguments,o)}else t=n.apply(this,arguments);return a(this,t)});function o(){return u(this,o),n.apply(this,arguments)}return o}(f(Error));t.exports={init:function(t,e){var r,n=i({},e),o=null;function c(){if(["X-Country","X-Ip_is_advertise_combined","X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].every((function(t){return!!n[t]})))return Promise.resolve(n);if(!o){var e=t.location.hostname.endsWith(".com")?"com":"co.uk";o=t.fetch("https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.".concat(e,"/userinfo")).then((function(t){return t.json()}))}return o}function u(t){if(t.status>=200&&t.status<300)return t;var e=new Error(t.statusText);throw e.response=t,e}function a(t){return t.json()}function f(){if(n.ageBand)return Promise.resolve(n);if(!r){if("undefined"==typeof XMLHttpRequest||!("withCredentials"in new XMLHttpRequest))return Promise.resolve(n);r=d(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(e){return e.initiateTokenRefresh().then((function(){return t.fetch(t.orbitData.userProfileUrl,{credentials:"include"}).then(u).then(a).then((function(t){return n=i(i({},n),t)}))}))}))}return r}var s={getHashedId:function(){return d(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t.getCookieInstance().getHidFromCookie()}))},isSignedIn:function(){return d(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t&&t.getCookieInstance().hasCookie()}))},getCountry:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Country"]||"gb"}))},isUKCombined:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"])throw new y("missing isUKCombined from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},canSeeAdverts:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"])throw new y("missing canSeeAdverts from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},getAgeBand:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Age-Band"]?Promise.resolve(t["X-Age-Band"]):s.isSignedIn().then((function(t){if(t)return f().then((function(t){return n["X-Age-Band"]=t["X-Age-Band"],n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0})).catch((function(){return n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0}))}))}))},allowsPerformanceCookies:function(){return d(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("performance")}))},allowsFunctionalCookies:function(){return d(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("personalisation")}))},getCookieValue:function(t){return d(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(e){return e.get(t)}))}};return s},BBCUserError:y}},11:function(t){t.exports={loadModule:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){window.require(t,(function(){e.apply(this,arguments)}),(function(t){r(t)}))}))}}},666:function(t){var e=function(t){"use strict";var e,r=Object.prototype,n=r.hasOwnProperty,o="function"==typeof Symbol?Symbol:{},i=o.iterator||"@@iterator",c=o.asyncIterator||"@@asyncIterator",u=o.toStringTag||"@@toStringTag";function a(t,e,r){return Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}),t[e]}try{a({},"")}catch(t){a=function(t,e,r){return t[e]=r}}function f(t,e,r,n){var o=e&&e.prototype instanceof v?e:v,i=Object.create(o.prototype),c=new k(n||[]);return i._invoke=function(t,e,r){var n=l;return function(o,i){if(n===h)throw new Error("Generator is already running");if(n===d){if("throw"===o)throw i;return C()}for(r.method=o,r.arg=i;;){var c=r.delegate;if(c){var u=_(c,r);if(u){if(u===y)continue;return u}}if("next"===r.method)r.sent=r._sent=r.arg;else if("throw"===r.method){if(n===l)throw n=d,r.arg;r.dispatchException(r.arg)}else"return"===r.method&&r.abrupt("return",r.arg);n=h;var a=s(t,e,r);if("normal"===a.type){if(n=r.done?d:p,a.arg===y)continue;return{value:a.arg,done:r.done}}"throw"===a.type&&(n=d,r.method="throw",r.arg=a.arg)}}}(t,r,c),i}function s(t,e,r){try{return{type:"normal",arg:t.call(e,r)}}catch(t){return{type:"throw",arg:t}}}t.wrap=f;var l="suspendedStart",p="suspendedYield",h="executing",d="completed",y={};function v(){}function g(){}function b(){}var w={};w[i]=function(){return this};var m=Object.getPrototypeOf,O=m&&m(m(S([])));O&&O!==r&&n.call(O,i)&&(w=O);var P=b.prototype=v.prototype=Object.create(w);function j(t){["next","throw","return"].forEach((function(e){a(t,e,(function(t){return this._invoke(e,t)}))}))}function E(t,e){function r(o,i,c,u){var a=s(t[o],t,i);if("throw"!==a.type){var f=a.arg,l=f.value;return l&&"object"==typeof l&&n.call(l,"__await")?e.resolve(l.__await).then((function(t){r("next",t,c,u)}),(function(t){r("throw",t,c,u)})):e.resolve(l).then((function(t){f.value=t,c(f)}),(function(t){return r("throw",t,c,u)}))}u(a.arg)}var o;this._invoke=function(t,n){function i(){return new e((function(e,o){r(t,n,e,o)}))}return o=o?o.then(i,i):i()}}function _(t,r){var n=t.iterator[r.method];if(n===e){if(r.delegate=null,"throw"===r.method){if(t.iterator.return&&(r.method="return",r.arg=e,_(t,r),"throw"===r.method))return y;r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("The iterator does not provide a 'throw' method")}return y}var o=s(n,t.iterator,r.arg);if("throw"===o.type)return r.method="throw",r.arg=o.arg,r.delegate=null,y;var i=o.arg;return i?i.done?(r[t.resultName]=i.value,r.next=t.nextLoc,"return"!==r.method&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),r.delegate=null,y):i:(r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("iterator result is not an object"),r.delegate=null,y)}function x(t){var e={tryLoc:t[0]};1 in t&&(e.catchLoc=t[1]),2 in t&&(e.finallyLoc=t[2],e.afterLoc=t[3]),this.tryEntries.push(e)}function L(t){var e=t.completion||{};e.type="normal",delete e.arg,t.completion=e}function k(t){this.tryEntries=[{tryLoc:"root"}],t.forEach(x,this),this.reset(!0)}function S(t){if(t){var r=t[i];if(r)return r.call(t);if("function"==typeof t.next)return t;if(!isNaN(t.length)){var o=-1,c=function r(){for(;++o<t.length;)if(n.call(t,o))return r.value=t[o],r.done=!1,r;return r.value=e,r.done=!0,r};return c.next=c}}return{next:C}}function C(){return{value:e,done:!0}}return g.prototype=P.constructor=b,b.constructor=g,g.displayName=a(b,u,"GeneratorFunction"),t.isGeneratorFunction=function(t){var e="function"==typeof t&&t.constructor;return!!e&&(e===g||"GeneratorFunction"===(e.displayName||e.name))},t.mark=function(t){return Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf(t,b):(t.__proto__=b,a(t,u,"GeneratorFunction")),t.prototype=Object.create(P),t},t.awrap=function(t){return{__await:t}},j(E.prototype),E.prototype[c]=function(){return this},t.AsyncIterator=E,t.async=function(e,r,n,o,i){void 0===i&&(i=Promise);var c=new E(f(e,r,n,o),i);return t.isGeneratorFunction(r)?c:c.next().then((function(t){return t.done?t.value:c.next()}))},j(P),a(P,u,"Generator"),P[i]=function(){return this},P.toString=function(){return"[object Generator]"},t.keys=function(t){var e=[];for(var r in t)e.push(r);return e.reverse(),function r(){for(;e.length;){var n=e.pop();if(n in t)return r.value=n,r.done=!1,r}return r.done=!0,r}},t.values=S,k.prototype={constructor:k,reset:function(t){if(this.prev=0,this.next=0,this.sent=this._sent=e,this.done=!1,this.delegate=null,this.method="next",this.arg=e,this.tryEntries.forEach(L),!t)for(var r in this)"t"===r.charAt(0)&&n.call(this,r)&&!isNaN(+r.slice(1))&&(this[r]=e)},stop:function(){this.done=!0;var t=this.tryEntries[0].completion;if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return this.rval},dispatchException:function(t){if(this.done)throw t;var r=this;function o(n,o){return u.type="throw",u.arg=t,r.next=n,o&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),!!o}for(var i=this.tryEntries.length-1;i>=0;--i){var c=this.tryEntries[i],u=c.completion;if("root"===c.tryLoc)return o("end");if(c.tryLoc<=this.prev){var a=n.call(c,"catchLoc"),f=n.call(c,"finallyLoc");if(a&&f){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0);if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}else if(a){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0)}else{if(!f)throw new Error("try statement without catch or finally");if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}}}},abrupt:function(t,e){for(var r=this.tryEntries.length-1;r>=0;--r){var o=this.tryEntries[r];if(o.tryLoc<=this.prev&&n.call(o,"finallyLoc")&&this.prev<o.finallyLoc){var i=o;break}}i&&("break"===t||"continue"===t)&&i.tryLoc<=e&&e<=i.finallyLoc&&(i=null);var c=i?i.completion:{};return c.type=t,c.arg=e,i?(this.method="next",this.next=i.finallyLoc,y):this.complete(c)},complete:function(t,e){if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return"break"===t.type||"continue"===t.type?this.next=t.arg:"return"===t.type?(this.rval=this.arg=t.arg,this.method="return",this.next="end"):"normal"===t.type&&e&&(this.next=e),y},finish:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.finallyLoc===t)return this.complete(r.completion,r.afterLoc),L(r),y}},catch:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.tryLoc===t){var n=r.completion;if("throw"===n.type){var o=n.arg;L(r)}return o}}throw new Error("illegal catch attempt")},delegateYield:function(t,r,n){return this.delegate={iterator:S(t),resultName:r,nextLoc:n},"next"===this.method&&(this.arg=e),y}},t}(t.exports);try{regeneratorRuntime=e}catch(t){Function("r","regeneratorRuntime = r")(e)}}},e={};function r(n){var o=e[n];if(void 0!==o)return o.exports;var i=e[n]={exports:{}};return t[n](i,i.exports,r),i.exports}r(666);r(53)}();</script> <script type="module"> window.importmap = {"orbit-drawer":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/drawer.mjs","bbccookies":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/2e8917a000cbc9051af7ab0a431d1750/cookie-banner/cookie-library.module.js"}; var o={0:function(o){o.exports={loadModule:function(o){return new Promise(((n,t)=>{window.require(o,(function(){n.apply(this,arguments)}),(o=>{t(o)}))}))}}},831:function(o,n,t){const{loadModule:r}=t(0);o.exports=function(o){return function(n){return"string"==typeof n&&o[n]?import(o[n]):r(n)}}}},n={};function t(r){var i=n[r];if(void 0!==i)return i.exports;var e=n[r]={exports:{}};return o[r](e,e.exports,t),e.exports}!function(){const o=t(831);window.shimport=o({...window.importmap}),window.importMap=void 0}();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.page = undefined; window.user = undefined; </script> <script> window.orb = {}; </script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/api-forge-free.min.js"></script> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Rg.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Bd.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin>        <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944cs_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/ee37a70a2dd13ea2e8a8b8d39579afaa/css/box.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/2e8917a000cbc9051af7ab0a431d1750/cookie-banner/cookie-library.bundle.js"></script><script type="text/javascript">void 0!==window.define&&define("orb/cookies",function(){return window.bbccookies})</script> <script type="text/javascript">window.__detectview={clickManagementEnabled:false};</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";!function(){window.__reverbStaticLocation="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/",window.__smarttagVersion="5.29.1",window.__reverb={},window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise=new Promise(function(e,i){window.__reverb.__resolveReverbLoaded=e,window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded=i}),window.__reverb.__reverbTimeout=setTimeout(function(){window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded()},5e3);var i=function(d,a){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){if(d&&d.detail){var i=!!d.detail.item,n=d.detail.label,t=i?"viewability":d.detail.type,o=d.detail.elem,r=d.detail.originalEvent;d.detail.isClick&&(a=d.detail.isClick),e.userActionEvent(t,n,d.detail,o,r,a)}},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})},n=function(){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})};document.addEventListener("bbc-user-event",function(e){i(e,!1)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-user-click",function(e){i(e,!0)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",n),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&n()})}();</script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/reverb-3.4.0.js" async></script> <script type="text/javascript">const adsDebug=/[?|&]ads-debug/.test(window.location.href);var bbcdotcomConfig={},bbcdotcomForgeAsync=!0,googletag=window.googletag||{};googletag.cmd=window.googletag.cmd||[],bbcdotcomScripts=[],tp=window.tp||[],_comscore=window._comscore||[];var bbcdotcom={test:/test/.test(window.location.hostname),adverts:{keyValues:{},breakpoints:{}},advert:{write:function(){},show:function(){},isActive:function(){return!1},layout:function(){return{reset:function(){}}}},config:{init:function(){},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.push(o):o(!1)})},isAdsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.adsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},isAnalyticsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.analyticsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},setSections:function(){},setAdsEnabled:function(){},setAnalyticsEnabled:function(){},setAssetPrefix:function(){},setFlagpoles:function(){},setVersion:function(){},setJsPrefix:function(){},setSwfPrefix:function(){},setCssPrefix:function(){},setConfig:function(){},getAssetPrefix:function(){},getJsPrefix:function(){},getSwfPrefix:function(){},getCssPrefix:function(){},isOptimizelyEnabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabledEU:function(){},setEU:function(){}},survey:{init:function(){return!1}},data:{},init:function(){},objects:function(o){return!1},locale:{set:function(){},get:function(){}},setAdKeyValue:function(){},utils:{addEvent:function(){},addHtmlTagClass:function(){},log:function(){}},addLoadEvent:function(){},resolves:{isAvailable:[],adsEnabled:[],analyticsEnabled:[]},resolvePromises:function(){if(bbcdotcom.resolves){for(var o=0;o<bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.length;o++)bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable[o](!1);delete bbcdotcom.resolves}},flag:{a:!1,s:!1},asyncCmd:[],isSportApp:function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},init:function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.init(o)})},slotAsync:function(o,n,t,c){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.slotAsync(o,n,t,c)})}};bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync=function(o,n,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync(o,n,t)})},bbcdotcom.config.isAdsEnabled=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isActive=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!0},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,n,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.registerAd(o,n,t)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit={},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid(o)})},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setConfig(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds=function(){bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds=!0},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset(o)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={},bbcdotcom.pubsub.on=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub.off=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,n)})},bbcdotcom.analytics={},bbcdotcom.analytics.page=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.analytics.page(o)})},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.config.isContinuousPlayPage=function(){return!1},bbcdotcom.config.isSportApp=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart=function(o,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart(o,n)})},"undefined"!=typeof require&&require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/script"}}),window.bbcdotcom&&bbcdotcom.isSportApp&&!bbcdotcom.isSportApp()&&window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(o){return o&&!adsDebug?(adsDebug&&console.log("UK location, not ads debug mode, don't load flags, don't load ads."),(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void o.resolvePromises()):void window.bbcuser.canSeeAdverts().then(function(o){if(!o&&!adsDebug)return adsDebug&&console.log("canSeeAdverts false, not ads debug mode, don't load ads."),(n=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},n.config.isActive=function(){return!1},n.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},n.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void n.resolvePromises();var n=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops",e=new XMLHttpRequest;e.open("GET",n),e.onload=function(){var n,o,t=JSON.parse(e.responseText),c=window.bbcdotcom||{};c.flag.a="true"===t.adverts?1:0,c.flag.s="true"===t.analytics?1:0,c.flag.a||c.flag.s?(o=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom",(n=new XMLHttpRequest).open("GET",o),n.onload=function(){var c=JSON.parse(n.responseText),e=window.bbcdotcom||{};[{tp:"thirdPartyEEA"},{d:"adsense"},{asa:"adsportapp"},{l:"lotame"},{p:"platinum"},{g:"grapeshot"},{sh:"sherlock"},{pe:"permutive"},{si:"signin"},{sis:"signinSport"},{sin:"signinNews"},{siw:"signinWWHP"},{piano:"piano"},{fundingchoices_cmp:"fundingchoices_cmp"},{storyworks_cmp:"storyworks_cmp"},{content_rec:"content_rec"},{ias_publisher:"ias_publisher"},{fpd:"fpd"},{sticky_leader_news:"sticky_leader_news"},{sticky_leader_sport:"sticky_leader_sport"}].forEach(function(o,n){for(var t in o)e.flag[t]="true"===c[o[t]]?1:0}),e.data={ads:e.flag.a,stats:e.flag.s,statsProvider:"",country:""},function(){const o=document.createElement("link");o.href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/style/bbcdotcom-async.css",o.rel="stylesheet",o.type="text/css",document.head.appendChild(o)}();var o=document.createElement("script"),t=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/script/bbcdotcom.js",o.onload=function(){window.bbcuser.getCountry().then(function(o){e.data.country=o,e.assetPrefix="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/",bbcdotcomConfig={assetPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/",staticVersion:"20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2",staticPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220420-081359-541cea846-4.65.2/"},e.config.init(bbcdotcomConfig,e.data,window.location,window.document),e.config.setAssetPrefix(bbcdotcomConfig.assetPrefix),e.config.setVersion(bbcdotcomConfig.staticVersion),e.config.setFlagpoles(e.flag);o=!!o&&-1!==["AT","BE","BG","HR","CY","CZ","DK","EE","FI","FR","DE","GR","HU","IE","IT","LV","LT","LU","MT","NL","PL","PT","RO","SK","SI","ES","SE","IS","LI","NO","CH"].indexOf(o.toUpperCase());e.config.setEU(o);var n,o=function(o){var n=document.createElement("link"),t=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];n.href=o,n.rel="dns-prefetch",t.appendChild(n)};e.flag.s&&o("//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://secure-us.imrworldwide.com/"),e.flag.a&&(o("//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.googletagservices.com/"),o("//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/"),(n=document.createElement("meta")).setAttribute("name","google-site-verification"),n.setAttribute("content","auTeTTwSt_KBY_4iDoR00Lwb7-qzx1IgzJy6ztaWgEI"),t.appendChild(n)),e.flag.a&&(e.config.isGrapeshotEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(n=window.location.href.split("?")[0],bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/?url="+encodeURIComponent(n)})),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js"}),e.config.isIASEnabled()&&(window.__iasPET=window.__iasPET||{},window.__iasPET.queue=window.__iasPET.queue||[],window.__iasPET.pubId="9708",bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://cdn.adsafeprotected.com/iasPET.1.js"}))),(e.flag.s||e.flag.a)&&(e.config.isPermutiveEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(function(t){if(!t){t=t||{},(window.permutive=t).q=[],t.config={consentRequired:!0},t.config.projectId="e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491",t.config.apiKey="1bb84885-9325-4fef-adda-a208032b2715",t.config.environment=t.config.environment||"production";for(var o=["addon","identify","track","trigger","query","segment","segments","ready","on","once","user","consent"],n=0;n<o.length;n++){var c=o[n];t[c]=function(n){return function(){var o=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0);t.q.push({functionName:n,arguments:o})}}(c)}}}((document,window.permutive)),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://cdn.permutive.com/e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491-web.js"})),bbcdotcomScripts.forEach(function(o){var n=document.createElement("script");n.async=!1,o.id&&(n.id=o.id),n.src=o.src,t.appendChild(n)}),window.bbcdotcom.config.isCmpEnabled()?(window.googlefc=window.googlefc||{},window.googlefc.callbackQueue=window.googlefc.callbackQueue||[],new Promise(function(t){window.googlefc.callbackQueue.push({CONSENT_DATA_READY:function(){window.__tcfapi("getTCData",2,function(o,n){n&&o.gdprApplies&&(window.bbcdotcom.consent={},window.bbcdotcom.gdprApplies=!0,window.bbcdotcom.consent.comscore=o.vendor.consents[77],window.bbcdotcom.consent.permutive=o.vendor.consents[360]&&o.vendor.consents[361],window.bbcdotcom.consent.googleads=o.vendor.consents[755],window.bbcdotcom.consent.nielsen=o.vendor.consents[373]&&o.vendor.consents[812],t(!0)),t(!0)},[77,164,360,361,373,755,812])}})}).then(function(){for(window.bbcdotcom.consentChecked=!0,window.bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds&&window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.unshift(function(){window.bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds()});window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}),function(){const o=document.createElement("script");o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/vendor/fundingchoices/cmp.js",document.head.appendChild(o)}()):function(){for(;window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}()),window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom up and running...")})},t.appendChild(o)},n.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},n.send()):((o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises())},e.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},e.send()})});</script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/565/style/id-cta.css"/><script type="text/javascript">(function () {if (!window.require) {throw new Error('idcta: could not find require module');}if (typeof (map) == 'undefined') {var map = {};}if (!!document.createElementNS && !!document.createElementNS('http://www.w3.org/2000/svg', 'svg').createSVGRect) {document.documentElement.className += ' id-svg';}var ptrt = new RegExp("[\\?&]ptrt=([^&]*)").exec(document.location.href);var ENDPOINT_URL = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://idcta.api.bbc.co.uk';var ENDPOINT_CONFIG = ('/idcta/config?callback=&ptrt=' + (ptrt ? ptrt[1] : encodeURIComponent(document.location.href))).replace(/\&/g, '&');var ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS = '/idcta/translations?callback=';function hasPromise() {var P = window.Promise;var promiseToString = null;if (P) {try {promiseToString = Object.prototype.toString.call(P.resolve());} catch (e) {/*silently ignored*/}}return (promiseToString === '[object Promise]' && !P.cast);}if (hasPromise()) {define('idcta/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});define('idcta-v2/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});}map['idcta-v2'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/565/modules/idcta-v2';map['idcta-v2/config'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_CONFIG;map['idcta-v2/translations'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS;map['idcta'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.8.2/modules/idcta';map['idcta-v2/idcta-1'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/565/modules/idcta-v2/dist/idcta-1.min';map['idcta-v2/experiment-snippet'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/idcta_live';const idctaShim = {deps: ['idcta-v2/idcta-1'],};require({shim: {'idcta-v2/statusbar': idctaShim,'idcta-v2/id-config': idctaShim},map: {'*': {'idcta/idcta-1': 'idcta-v2/idcta-1','idcta': 'idcta-v2',}},paths: map});window.idctaBaseUrl = ENDPOINT_URL;define('idcta/config', ['idcta-v2/config'], function (data) { return data; });define('idcta/translations', ['idcta-v2/translations'], function (data) { return data; });})();</script> <style>@font-face{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/curious-sans-bold.b389ec59.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/curious-sans-bold.ba46d70f.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-core';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-core.cc52df12.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-core.5435c223.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-media';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-media.41063609.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-media.28e9b877.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-social';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-social.523533c6.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/media/gelicons-social.407b297d.ttf) format("truetype")}.gelicon{font-family:'gelicons-core'}.gelicon,.gelicon::before{-moz-osx-font-smoothing:grayscale;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;font-style:normal !important;font-weight:normal !important;speak:none;text-decoration:none !important}.gelicon--leading::before{margin-right:8px}.gelicon--trailing::before{margin-left:8px}.gelicon--social{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--core{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer,.gelicon--iplayer-radio,.gelicon--previous,.gelicon--up,.gelicon--down,.gelicon--next,.gelicon--tobottom,.gelicon--totop,.gelicon--zoomin,.gelicon--zoomout,.gelicon--search,.gelicon--print,.gelicon--print-invert,.gelicon--yes,.gelicon--no,.gelicon--add,.gelicon--help,.gelicon--info,.gelicon--alert,.gelicon--expires,.gelicon--duration,.gelicon--alarm,.gelicon--countdown,.gelicon--grid,.gelicon--chapters,.gelicon--list,.gelicon--listthumb,.gelicon--lock,.gelicon--unlock,.gelicon--home,.gelicon--new,.gelicon--vocab,.gelicon--degraded,.gelicon--calendar-mini,.gelicon--calendar,.gelicon--mail,.gelicon--location,.gelicon--load,.gelicon--settings,.gelicon--embed,.gelicon--external,.gelicon--traffic,.gelicon--refresh,.gelicon--link,.gelicon--point,.gelicon--upload,.gelicon--download,.gelicon--finder,.gelicon--stations,.gelicon--untitled,.gelicon--untitled-2,.gelicon--quote,.gelicon--calendar-30,.gelicon--download-desktop,.gelicon--map,.gelicon--previous-alternative,.gelicon--next-alternative,.gelicon--arrow-down{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer::before{content:'\e000'}.gelicon--iplayer-radio::before{content:'\e001'}.gelicon--previous::before{content:'\e002'}.gelicon--up::before{content:'\e003'}.gelicon--down::before{content:'\e004'}.gelicon--next::before{content:'\e005'}.gelicon--tobottom::before{content:'\e006'}.gelicon--totop::before{content:'\e007'}.gelicon--zoomin::before{content:'\e008'}.gelicon--zoomout::before{content:'\e00a'}.gelicon--search::before{content:'\e009'}.gelicon--print::before{content:'\e00b'}.gelicon--print-invert::before{content:'\e00c'}.gelicon--yes::before{content:'\e00d'}.gelicon--no::before{content:'\e00e'}.gelicon--add::before{content:'\e00f'}.gelicon--help::before{content:'\e010'}.gelicon--info::before{content:'\e011'}.gelicon--alert::before{content:'\e012'}.gelicon--expires::before{content:'\e013'}.gelicon--duration::before{content:'\e014'}.gelicon--alarm::before{content:'\e015'}.gelicon--countdown::before{content:'\e016'}.gelicon--grid::before{content:'\e017'}.gelicon--chapters::before{content:'\e018'}.gelicon--list::before{content:'\e019'}.gelicon--listthumb::before{content:'\e01a'}.gelicon--lock::before{content:'\e01b'}.gelicon--unlock::before{content:'\e01c'}.gelicon--home::before{content:'\e01d'}.gelicon--new::before{content:'\e01e'}.gelicon--vocab::before{content:'\e01f'}.gelicon--degraded::before{content:'\e020'}.gelicon--calendar-mini::before{content:'\e021'}.gelicon--calendar::before{content:'\e022'}.gelicon--mail::before{content:'\e023'}.gelicon--location::before{content:'\e024'}.gelicon--load::before{content:'\e025'}.gelicon--settings::before{content:'\e026'}.gelicon--embed::before{content:'\e027'}.gelicon--external::before{content:'\e028'}.gelicon--traffic::before{content:'\e029'}.gelicon--refresh::before{content:'\e02a'}.gelicon--link::before{content:'\e02b'}.gelicon--point::before{content:'\e02c'}.gelicon--upload::before{content:'\e02d'}.gelicon--download::before{content:'\e02e'}.gelicon--finder::before{content:'\e02f'}.gelicon--stations::before{content:'\e030'}.gelicon--untitled::before{content:'\42'}.gelicon--untitled-2::before{content:'\43'}.gelicon--quote::before{content:'\22'}.gelicon--playlister-add::before{content:'\e031'}.gelicon--calendar-30::before{content:'\e032'}.gelicon--download-desktop::before{content:'\e033'}.gelicon--map::before{content:'\e034'}.gelicon--previous-alternative::before{content:'\e035'}.gelicon--next-alternative::before{content:'\e036'}.gelicon--arrow-down::before{content:'\e038'}.gelicon--menu,.gelicon--live,.gelicon--subtitles,.gelicon--ws,.gelicon--sd,.gelicon--hd,.gelicon--bsl,.gelicon--ad,.gelicon--3d,.gelicon--tv,.gelicon--radio,.gelicon--mobile,.gelicon--desktop,.gelicon--game,.gelicon--tablet,.gelicon--quiz,.gelicon--guidance,.gelicon--record,.gelicon--listen,.gelicon--play,.gelicon--pause,.gelicon--rewind,.gelicon--forward,.gelicon--restart,.gelicon--image,.gelicon--document,.gelicon--slideshow,.gelicon--activity,.gelicon--360,.gelicon--podcast,.gelicon--newsletter,.gelicon--rss,.gelicon--fullscreen,.gelicon--expand,.gelicon--popout,.gelicon--mute,.gelicon--music-on,.gelicon--music-off,.gelicon--windows,.gelicon--apple,.gelicon--interactive{font-family:'gelicons-media' !important}.gelicon--menu::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--live::before{content:'\e100'}.gelicon--subtitles::before{content:'\e101'}.gelicon--ws::before{content:'\e102'}.gelicon--sd::before{content:'\e103'}.gelicon--hd::before{content:'\e104'}.gelicon--bsl::before{content:'\e105'}.gelicon--ad::before{content:'\e106'}.gelicon--3d::before{content:'\e107'}.gelicon--tv::before{content:'\e108'}.gelicon--radio::before{content:'\e109'}.gelicon--mobile::before{content:'\e10a'}.gelicon--desktop::before{content:'\e10b'}.gelicon--game::before{content:'\e10c'}.gelicon--tablet::before{content:'\e10d'}.gelicon--quiz::before{content:'\e10e'}.gelicon--guidance::before{content:'\e10f'}.gelicon--record::before{content:'\e110'}.gelicon--listen::before{content:'\e111'}.gelicon--play::before{content:'\e112'}.gelicon--pause::before{content:'\e113'}.gelicon--rewind::before{content:'\e114'}.gelicon--forward::before{content:'\e115'}.gelicon--restart::before{content:'\e116'}.gelicon--image::before{content:'\e117'}.gelicon--document::before{content:'\e118'}.gelicon--slideshow::before{content:'\e119'}.gelicon--activity::before{content:'\e11a'}.gelicon--360::before{content:'\e11b'}.gelicon--podcast::before{content:'\e11c'}.gelicon--newsletter::before{content:'\e11d'}.gelicon--rss::before{content:'\e11e'}.gelicon--fullscreen::before{content:'\e11f'}.gelicon--expand::before{content:'\e120'}.gelicon--popout::before{content:'\e121'}.gelicon--mute::before{content:'\e122'}.gelicon--music-on::before{content:'\e123'}.gelicon--music-off::before{content:'\e124'}.gelicon--windows::before{content:'\e125'}.gelicon--apple::before{content:'\e126'}.gelicon--interactive::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--share,.gelicon--recommend,.gelicon--comments,.gelicon--blog,.gelicon--smiley,.gelicon--love,.gelicon--twitter,.gelicon--facebook,.gelicon--google-plus,.gelicon--google,.gelicon--spotify,.gelicon--pinterest,.gelicon--tumblr,.gelicon--stumbleupon,.gelicon--linkedin,.gelicon--reddit,.gelicon--digg,.gelicon--instagram,.gelicon--whatsapp{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--share::before{content:'\e200'}.gelicon--recommend::before{content:'\e201'}.gelicon--comments::before{content:'\e202'}.gelicon--blog::before{content:'\e203'}.gelicon--smiley::before{content:'\e204'}.gelicon--love::before{content:'\e205'}.gelicon--twitter::before{content:'\e300'}.gelicon--facebook::before{content:'\e301'}.gelicon--google-plus::before{content:'\e700'}.gelicon--google::before{content:'\e701'}.gelicon--spotify::before{content:'\e304'}.gelicon--pinterest::before{content:'\e305'}.gelicon--tumblr::before{content:'\e306'}.gelicon--stumbleupon::before{content:'\e307'}.gelicon--linkedin::before{content:'\e308'}.gelicon--reddit::before{content:'\e309'}.gelicon--digg::before{content:'\e30a'}.gelicon--instagram::before{content:'\e30b'}.gelicon--whatsapp::before{content:'\e600'}.basic-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #adadad;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 0 #fff,0 2px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.08);color:#193e6d;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:20px;height:54px;justify-content:center;min-width:222px;text-align:center;transition:0.6s}.basic-button--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button--future{color:#002856}.basic-button--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button__text{color:#444;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;transition:0.6s}.basic-button__text--white{color:#fff}.basic-button__text--curious{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.basic-button__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button__text--future{color:#002856}.basic-button__text--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button__text--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button::before{padding-right:16px}.basic-button:hover{background-color:#dedede}.basic-button--background-light-blue:hover{background-color:#dfe8ff}.basic-button--background-worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.basic-button--background-future{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-culture{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--background-travel{background-color:#589e50}.basic-button--background-worklife:hover{background-color:#4494e4}.basic-button--background-future:hover{background-color:#ffc857}.basic-button--background-culture:hover{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-travel:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button__text--bold{font-weight:bold}.load-more-button{box-sizing:border-box}.load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{margin-right:16px;transform:rotate(90deg)}.load-more-button__downarrow{color:#adadad;font-size:22px;transition:0.6s}.load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{animation:spin 2s linear infinite}.load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type{padding-right:16px}.load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type){padding-left:16px}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(90deg)}100%{transform:rotate(-270deg)}}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button-inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase}.see-more-button-inner--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px}.see-more-button-inner__arrow--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__text{margin-right:24px}.read-more-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-weight:bold;position:relative;width:224px}.AdFrame{display:inline-flex}.AdFrame--default{background-color:#f6f6f6}.AdFrame--dark-grey{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8)}.AdFrame--centre-aligned{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.text-with-styled-background{height:inherit;position:relative;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background--collection{display:inline-block;width:unset}.text-with-styled-background--center-align{align-items:center;display:flex}.text-with-styled-background__text{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#444;display:block;font-size:20px;line-height:24px;padding:0 0 0 10px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__text--large{font-size:26px;line-height:30px;padding:0 0 0 24px}.text-with-styled-background__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding{padding:0;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__text--largest{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--future{color:#002856}.text-with-styled-background__text--culture{color:#472479}.text-with-styled-background__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.text-with-styled-background__text--travel{color:#589e50}.text-with-styled-background__text--blue{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection{font-size:28px;line-height:34px;padding:0}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium{font-size:32px;line-height:38px}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__line-container{bottom:0;margin-left:13px;position:absolute;width:calc(100% - 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.05);height:26px;max-width:240px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__line--large{bottom:-10px;height:42px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--narrow{height:26px;max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line--medium{bottom:-10px;height:36px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--largest{max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection{width:calc(100% + 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin{margin:0}.text-with-styled-background__line--collection{height:26px}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.simple-header{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-header--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-header--simple{font-size:18px;line-height:22px}.simple-header--small{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--smallest{font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;line-height:24px}.simple-header--medium{font-size:24px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--regular{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--condensed-bold{font-stretch:condensed}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large{line-height:37px}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular{line-height:28px}.simple-header--white{color:#fff} .article-intro{position:relative}.article-intro__line{margin-top:24px}.author-unit{display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px}.author-unit--small-mobile{line-height:30px}.author-unit .author-unit__container{color:#4a4a4a;margin:0 auto}.author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop{margin:0}.author-unit__container{align-items:baseline;display:flex;padding:10px 0}.author-unit__text{font-style:italic;font-weight:600;padding-right:10px;text-decoration:none}.author-unit__icon{color:#6a6a6a;padding-right:14px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;top:1px}.author-unit__icon:hover{color:#00bbf2}.partner-module{border-bottom:1px solid #472479;border-top:0}.partner-module__link,.partner-module__link:visited{align-items:center;color:#444;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:0;text-decoration:none}.partner-module__link:hover{background-color:#f5f5f5}.partner-module__heading{display:inline-block;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:16px 0}.partner-module__partner-name{font-weight:bold}.partner-module__partner-logo{display:block;height:31px;margin:12px 0;margin-left:17px;width:88px}.uppercase-label{color:#8f8d8d;font-size:12px;font-style:condensed;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin:0;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase;transition:color 0.4s}.uppercase-label--small{font-size:11px;font-weight:400;line-height:14px;margin:0}.uppercase-label--medium{font-size:14px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--reith-condensed{font-weight:400}.uppercase-label--white{color:#ebebeb}.uppercase-label--light-grey{color:#999}.uppercase-label--dark-grey{color:#444}.uppercase-label--large{font-size:16px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--true-white{color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 1px #193e6d}.uppercase-label--arial{font-family:Arial} .label-with-line{align-items:center;display:flex}.label-with-line__label{margin:0 16px 0 0}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}100%{transform:rotate(360deg)}}.spinner{fill:#444}.spinner__image{animation:spin 1s linear infinite}.spinner--worklife{fill:#8beed9}.spinner--future{fill:#ffc857}.spinner--culture{fill:#472479}.spinner--travel{fill:#002856}.spinner--earth{fill:#002856}.spinner--white{fill:#fff}.spinner--audio{height:32px;width:32px}.play-button__inline-audio,.play-button__inline-video{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:49px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:49px}.play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play{color:#ececec;transition-duration:0.6s}.play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play{color:#8beed9}.play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play{color:#ffc857}.play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play{color:#472479}.play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-video:hover{background-color:#ececec}.play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play{color:#000}.play-button__inline-audio{color:#fff;font-size:22px;height:50px;padding:0;width:50px}.play-button{align-items:center;background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2);border:2px solid #5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:80px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:80px}.play-button:hover{color:#5ae9cb}.play-button--white{border:4px solid #fff}.play-button--white:hover{color:#fff}.play-button--white .gelicon--play{color:inherit}.play-button--worklife{border:2px solid #8beed9}.play-button--worklife:hover{color:#8beed9}.play-button--travel{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--travel:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--future{border:2px solid #ffc857}.play-button--future:hover{color:#ffc857}.play-button--culture{border:2px solid #472479}.play-button--culture:hover{color:#472479}.play-button--earth{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--earth:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--desktop{font-size:30px;height:76px;width:76px}.play-button--background-hover:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6)}.inline-video{height:100%}.inline-video__container{position:relative}.inline-video__border-line{padding:0 10px}.inline-video .play-button__inline-video{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;z-index:1000}.inline-video__smp{background-color:#000;padding-bottom:56.25%}.inline-video__smp--loaded{background-color:unset;padding-bottom:unset}.inline-video__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin:0 10px 0 3%;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-video__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:28px 0 18px} .body-text-card-inline-video{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.previous-media-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.previous-media-button__icon--white svg{fill:#fff}.previous-media-button span{height:18px;width:16px}.error-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.error-button .gelicon--alert{color:#ececec}.inline-audio-player{background:none}.inline-audio-player__smp-container{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div{height:50px;position:relative}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div>div{padding:0 !important}.inline-audio-player__container{display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-holder{align-items:center;background-color:#ededed;display:flex;padding-right:8px}.inline-audio-player__cta-container{align-items:center;display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising *{cursor:initial;pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button{opacity:0.6}.inline-audio-player__text{background:none;border:0;color:#222;cursor:pointer;font-size:18px;height:25px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:25px;margin-left:12px;outline:inherit;padding:0}.inline-audio-player__text--offline{cursor:default;pointer-events:none}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;left:-110px;line-height:12px;margin-left:0;padding:0 7px;position:relative;top:25px;width:66px}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow{transform:rotate(45deg)}.inline-audio-player__inner-arrow{color:#4d4d49;font-size:10px}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button{background-color:transparent;border:0;margin-left:auto;outline:none;transition:all 0.5s ease}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open{transform:rotate(180deg)}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.inline-audio-player__hidden{display:none}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container{background-color:#ededed;color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding:1rem}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide{display:none}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.inline-audio-player__line{margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player .previous-media-button{height:50px;margin-right:1px;width:50px}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.text-summary__text{font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin:0;text-align:left}.text-summary__text--blue{color:#193e6d}.text-summary__text--black{color:#000}.text-summary__text--grey{color:#6a6a6a}.text-summary__text--dark-grey{color:#444}.text-summary__text--left{text-align:left}.text-summary__text--right{text-align:right}.inline-image__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);font-style:italic;margin:0 10px;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-image__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:20px 0 18px}.inline-image img{border-radius:0}.simple-p-tag{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-p-tag--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-p-tag--medium{font-size:27px;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px}.simple-p-tag--quote{color:#575757}.simple-header--serif-light-italic{font-style:italic;line-height:inherit}.inline-quote{border-left:3px solid #575757;color:#575757;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px;margin:0;padding-left:22px}.inline-quote--worklife{border-left:3px solid #8beed9}.inline-quote--future{border-left:3px solid #ffc857}.inline-quote--culture{border-left:3px solid #472479}.inline-quote--earth{border-left:3px solid #002856}.inline-quote h2{font-weight:300}.article-video{height:100%;position:relative}.article-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-video__overlay{display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__play-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;left:50%;padding:0;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);z-index:1500}.article-video__label{margin-bottom:16px}.article-video__image{bottom:0;height:100%;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__image--hide{opacity:0}.article-video__playercore{display:block}.article-video__playercore--mobile{display:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__playercore--show{display:block}.article-video--bordered{border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden} .copyright__text{color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin-bottom:10px;text-align:center}@media (max-width: 767px){.copyright__text{margin-top:12px}}.hero-video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:180px;justify-content:center;position:relative;z-index:1}.hero-video__video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:80%;justify-content:center;position:relative;width:80%;z-index:2}.hero-video__video--desktop{left:0;top:65px;width:71.5% !important}.hero-video__video--mobile{height:100%;width:100%}.hero-video__video--small-desktop{height:70%;left:0;top:78px;width:67%}.hero-video--small-desktop,.hero-video--desktop{display:block;height:720px}.hero-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;filter:brightness(40%)}@media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active){.hero-video img{opacity:0.5}}.hero-video--mobile{height:280px}.hero-video--medium-mobile{height:430px}.hero-video--tablet{height:574px}.hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video{margin-bottom:10px}.hero-video__play-button{position:absolute;z-index:100}.hero-video__video div div{position:inherit !important;position:unset !important} .content-embed{width:100%} .infographic-embed__frame{width:100%} .screen-reader-only{border:0;clip:rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);clip-path:inset(50%);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute !important;width:1px;word-wrap:normal !important}.email-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:11px;height:50px;justify-content:center;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.email-icon:hover{background-color:#000}.email-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.facebook-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:15px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.facebook-icon:hover{background-color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #3b5998;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue:hover{background-color:#3b5998;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--small{font-size:20px;height:38px;width:38px} .ticked-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#13de99;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);display:flex;height:50px;justify-content:center;width:50px;z-index:55}.ticked-icon--small{font-size:12px;height:38px;width:38px}.google-plus-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.google-plus-icon:hover{background-color:#d34836}.google-plus-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.linkedin-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.linkedin-icon:hover{background-color:#0077b5}.linkedin-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.reddit-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.reddit-icon:hover{background-color:#ff4500}.reddit-icon__hide{display:none}.reddit-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.twitter-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.twitter-icon:hover{background-color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #1da1f2;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue:hover{background-color:#1da1f2;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--small{font-size:18px;height:38px;width:38px}.whatsapp-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.whatsapp-icon:hover{background-color:#25d366}.whatsapp-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.article-share-tools{display:flex}.article-share-tools a,.article-share-tools button{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-sizing:border-box;color:#979797;display:flex;height:52px;margin-right:2px;width:52px}.article-share-tools--dark a,.article-share-tools--dark button{color:#444;height:54px;width:54px}.article-share-tools--dark a svg,.article-share-tools--dark button svg{stroke:#444}.article-share-tools a:hover,.article-share-tools button:hover{background-color:#fff}.article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover{color:#3b5898}.article-share-tools .email-icon:hover{color:#615f5d}.article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover{color:#47c7fa}.article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover{color:#0077b5}.article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover{color:#25d366}.article-share-tools .facebook-messenger{color:#0184ff}.article-share-tools .ticked-icon{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;font-size:11px;margin-right:2px;padding:3px}.article-share-tools--popout>*,.article-share-tools--popout a{color:#020203;margin-bottom:3px;transition:0.4s} .share-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;color:#444;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;justify-content:center;letter-spacing:3px;padding:18px 16px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.6s;width:110px;z-index:55}.share-button .gelicon--share{margin-right:10px;transition:0.3s ease-in}.share-button:hover .gelicon--share,.share-button .gelicon--share-sharing{transform:rotate(-180deg)} .share-tools-popout{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:30px 0 20px;position:relative;width:300px}.share-tools-popout__text{color:#444;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 18px 18px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.share-tools-popout__url-container{padding:0 18px;width:100%}.share-tools-popout__articleurl{border:1px solid #979797;box-sizing:border-box;color:#a39f9f;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;margin-bottom:8px;margin-top:0;padding:12px 10px;text-align:center;width:262px}.share-tools-popout__close{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:absolute;right:8px;top:20px}.share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#888;transform:rotate(90deg)}.share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#000;font-size:16px;transition:0.4s}.share-tools-popout__border-arrow{background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;border-bottom:0;border-right:0;height:12px;left:40px;position:absolute;top:-7px;transform:rotate(45deg);width:12px}.share-tools-popout__tools{margin-bottom:13px}.share-tools-popout__details{align-self:normal;color:#444;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:16px;margin:0;max-width:180px;padding-left:14px}.share-tools-popout__copied,.share-tools-popout__copy{background-color:#000;border:unset;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin-bottom:18px;padding:12px 6px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.4s;width:110px}.share-tools-popout__copy:hover{background-color:#555}.share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes{color:#ff9700;margin-left:8px} .share-button-with-popout{position:relative;z-index:9999}.share-button-with-popout__popout{max-width:330px;padding-right:8px;position:absolute;top:53px;width:100%}.share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop{width:auto} .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:24px}.article-end__share-tools{margin-bottom:0}.article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:36px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:44px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools{display:flex;margin-bottom:50px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share{margin-top:0}.article-end__share{margin-top:5px}.section-header-text__text{background-color:#fff;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:0 0 20px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5),0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5);margin:0 8px;opacity:0.95;padding:16px;position:relative;z-index:3}.section-header-text__text--no-margin{margin:0}.section-header-text__ad{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;margin:0 8px 8px;position:relative;top:unset}.section-header-text__ad--desktop{margin:0 0 8px}.section-header-text__title{display:inline-block}.section-header-text__title--large-margin{margin:0 40px 16px 0}.section-header-text__title--premium{border:1.78px solid;padding:8px}.section-header-text__title-content{color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset}.section-header-text__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px}.section-header-text__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.section-header-text__description{color:#555;font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0}.section-header-text__description--large{font-size:16px;line-height:24px}.section-header-unit{max-width:1280px;position:relative}.section-header-unit--tablet{height:320px}.section-header-unit--desktop{border-radius:4px;height:320px;overflow:hidden}.section-header-unit__image{height:320px;max-height:320px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.section-header-unit__image img{left:50%;position:relative;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.section-header-unit__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.section-header-unit__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.section-header-unit__content{position:relative;transform:translateY(-50%)}.section-header-unit__content--desktop{bottom:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;max-width:420px;position:absolute;right:32px;top:0;transform:none}.section-header-unit__content--advert{transform:translateY(calc(-50% - 28px))} .domestic-disclaimer{background-color:#333;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__content{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:990px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small{max-width:976px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop{max-width:1248px}.domestic-disclaimer__text{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:13px;line-height:14px;margin:auto;padding:8px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;padding:16px 54px 16px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;margin-left:0;max-width:890px;padding:14px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;padding:0 16px 0 0;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop{padding:0 16px 0 0}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop{font-size:22px}.drop-capped{align-items:center;border:2px solid #444;color:#444;display:flex;float:left;font-size:58px;font-weight:bold;height:84px;justify-content:center;margin:8px 10px 4px 0;text-transform:uppercase;width:84px}.drop-capped--worklife{border-color:#8beed9}.drop-capped--future{border-color:#ffc857}.drop-capped--culture{border-color:#444}.drop-capped--earth{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--travel{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--desktop{margin-right:24px}.label-list{display:flex;flex-direction:row;position:relative}.label-list__line{width:100%}.label-list__content{margin:30px 0 0 16px;width:100%}.label-list__content--tablet{margin:34px 0 0 38px}.label-list__content--desktop{margin:42px 0 0 32px}.label-list__list-item{margin:0;padding:0}.label-list__link{color:#444;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;text-decoration:none}.label-list__link:hover{color:#adadad}.label-list__link--large{font-size:22px;line-height:29px}.label-list__link:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:8px}.label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:12px}.label-list__list-items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:36px}.label-list__list-items--tablet{margin-top:52px}.label-list__list-items--desktop{margin-top:46px}.offline-reading{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.offline-reading__header{font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 16px;max-width:220px;text-align:center}.offline-reading__header--desktop{font-size:18px;max-width:460px}.offline-reading__buttons{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;text-align:center}.offline-reading__buttons--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.offline-reading__top-stories{margin-bottom:24px}.offline-reading__top-stories--desktop{margin:0 16px 0 0}.offline-reading__icon{display:block;height:auto;margin-bottom:24px;width:120px}.rectangle-image{background-size:cover;height:74px;max-width:100%;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:132px}.rectangle-image img{height:100%;left:50%;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:auto}.rectangle-image--small{box-sizing:border-box;height:32px;width:56px}.rectangle-image--large{box-sizing:border-box;height:162px;width:288px}.rectangle-image--medium{box-sizing:border-box;height:126px;width:222px}.rectangle-image--full-screen{padding-top:56.25%;width:100%}.rectangle-image img{transition:all 0.4s ease}.rectangle-image__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:100%}.rectangle-image__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-image:hover img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:100%;width:288px}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000}.rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#482978}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item__image-container{position:relative;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item--tablet{width:222px}.rectangle-story-item__container{display:flex;flex:1 1 auto;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:3px;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;padding-bottom:3px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.rectangle-story-item__line{display:block;margin:16px 0}.rectangle-story-item__author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);display:block;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000;bottom:0;color:#fff;font-size:14px;height:44px;line-height:44px;position:absolute;text-align:center;transition:0.4s ease;width:44px}.rectangle-story-item__title--white,.rectangle-story-item__author--white,.rectangle-story-item__label--white{color:#fff}.rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover{border-bottom:0}.rectangle-story-item__label--white>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #fff} .rectangle-article-group{display:flex;flex:1;flex-direction:column;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-article-group--tablet,.rectangle-article-group--desktop{flex-direction:row}.rectangle-article-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-top:12px}.rectangle-article-group__article--tablet{padding:0 16px 0 0}.rectangle-article-group__article--desktop{padding:0 24px 0 0} .fake-ad{align-content:center;align-items:center;background:#f6f6f6;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding:8px}.fake-ad__body{align-items:center;background:#5ae9cb;color:#fff;display:flex;flex:0 0 auto;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;justify-content:center}.fake-ad__text{align-self:center;color:#444;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;line-height:1.5;text-align:right;text-transform:uppercase}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body{height:320px;width:320px}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text{width:320px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:50px;width:300px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:300px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:90px;width:728px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:728px} .inline-html{display:block} .body-text-card-inline-image{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.body-text-card{color:#444;display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:1.5}.body-text-card__image,.body-text-card__video{margin:24px 0}.body-text-card__text{display:block}.body-text-card__advert{margin:20px 0}.body-text-card__text div a{cursor:pointer;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.body-text-card__text a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.body-text-card__text>div>p{margin:0 20px 16px}.body-text-card__text>div>p:last-child{margin-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}.body-text-card__drop-capped{float:left;margin:0 8px 0 20px;padding-top:6px}.body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter{color:transparent;font-size:0}.body-text-card__text--flush-text>div>p{margin-left:0;margin-right:0}.body-text-card__text--future div a:visited{color:#666}.body-text-card__text--future div a{color:#002856;text-decoration-color:#002856}.body-text-card__text--travel div a{color:#589e50;text-decoration-color:#589e50}.body-text-card__text--worklife div a{color:#0052a1;text-decoration-color:#0052a1}.body-text-card__text--earth div a{color:#0fbb56;text-decoration-color:#0fbb56}.body-text-card__text--culture div a{color:#472479;text-decoration-color:#472479}.swimlane-inner{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:auto 100%;display:block;padding:24px 16px}.swimlane-inner--small{padding:24px 8px}.swimlane-inner--tablet{padding:28px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--small-desktop{padding:30px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--desktop{padding:38px 16px 42px}.swimlane{overflow:hidden;position:relative;z-index:0}.swimlane__black{background-color:#0e0e0e}.swimlane__background-image{height:500px;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:915px;z-index:-1}.swimlane__background-image--mobile{height:181px;width:320px}.swimlane__background-image--tablet{height:421px;width:752px}.swimlane__background-image--desktop{height:500px;width:915px}.swimlane__background-image--atb{background-color:rgba(51,51,51,0.8);background-size:cover;height:100%;width:100%}.swimlane__item{margin:0 0 25px;width:100%}.swimlane__item--desktop{margin:0}.swimlane__item--tablet{margin:0 16px 25px 0;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 3)}.swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n+3){margin-right:0}.swimlane__item--two-columns{margin-right:0 !important;max-width:572px;width:50%}.swimlane__item--four-columns{box-sizing:border-box;margin-bottom:25px;margin-right:16px;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 4)}.swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n+4){margin-right:0}.swimlane__items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:24px;text-align:left}.swimlane__items--desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;margin-top:42px}.swimlane__items--small-desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--tablet{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--no-title{margin-top:0}.swimlane__content{margin:auto;max-width:942px;text-align:center}.swimlane__content--desktop{max-width:1216px}.swimlane__title{color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase}.swimlane__title--black{color:#010101;font-weight:400}.see-more-button-container-alt{color:#0e0e0e}.branding{box-sizing:content-box !important;display:inline-block;height:24px;padding:12px 16px;width:100%}.branding__icon{display:inline-block;height:24px;width:100%}.branding__icon g{fill:#fff}.branding--medium{padding:16px}.branding--large{padding:16px 24px}.branding--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.branding--future{background-color:#002856}.branding--culture{background-color:#472479}.branding--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.branding--travel{background-color:#589e50}.branding--travel svg,.branding--earth svg,.branding--culture svg,.branding--future svg,.branding--worklife svg{height:24px}.branding--small,.branding--small svg{height:17px}.branding__icon--medium,.branding--medium,.branding--medium svg{height:22px}.branding__icon--large,.branding--large,.branding--large svg{height:24px}.branding__icon--largest,.branding--largest,.branding--largest svg{height:32px}.branding__icon--small,.branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--future .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg{height:17px}.nav-label{color:#4e4e4e;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;transition:0.4s}.nav-label:hover{color:#8e8e8e}.nav-label--menu{color:#ebebeb}.nav-label--menu:hover{color:#cecece}.nav-label--white{color:#fff}.nav-label--curiousSans{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.nav-links__link{align-items:center;display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;padding-right:24px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-links__link--active p{border-bottom:2px solid #002856;font-weight:bold}.nav-links__link--active--menu p{border-bottom:unset}.nav-links__link--active--worklife p{border-bottom:2px solid #0052a1}.nav-links__link--active--culture p{border-bottom:2px solid #472479}.nav-links__link--active--earth p{border-bottom:2px solid #0fbb56}.nav-links__link--active--travel p{border-bottom:2px solid #589e50}.nav-links__icon{background-color:#0052a1;bottom:10px;height:2px;position:absolute;width:80px}.nav-links__link--menu{display:block;padding-right:unset}.nav-links__icon--menu{display:none}.nav-links__icon--menu-tablet{width:60px}.nav-links__icon--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-links__icon--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-links__icon--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-links__icon--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-links__icon--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-links__link--menu p{font-size:26px;padding:0 0 32px 24px}.nav-links__link--menu-desktop p{font-size:32px;line-height:42px;padding:0 0 44px 100px}.close-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.close-nav__icon{color:#fff;display:flex;font-size:20px;transition:0.4s}.close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon{color:#cecece;transform:rotate(90deg)}.close-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px} .follow-us-on{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.follow-us-on__text{color:#fff;font-size:16px;font-style:condensed;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase}.follow-us-on__links{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.follow-us-on__link:first-child{margin-right:16px}.ad-slot{display:inline-block}.ad-slot__container{align-items:center;display:flex}.ad-slot__label{max-width:120px;min-width:112px;padding-right:8px;text-align:right}.ad-slot--leaderboard{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.ad-slot__label--mpu,.ad-slot__label--leaderboard{margin-bottom:8px;max-width:unset;padding-right:unset;text-align:right}.ad-slot__container--mpu,.ad-slot__container--leaderboard{display:inline-block;flex-wrap:unset}.ad-slot__fake--sponsor{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:31px;min-width:88px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:250px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:600px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:90px;min-width:728px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:320px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__label--dark{color:#dcdcdc}.ad-slot--dark{background-color:#f6f6f6;padding:8px}.ad-slot--black{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8);padding:8px} .sponsor-section{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;max-width:530px}.sponsor-section--menu{padding:20px 0 16px 24px}.sponsor-section__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%}.sponsor-section__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row;justify-content:space-between}.sponsor-section__sponsor{color:#fff;padding-right:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#4e4e4e;font-size:26px;margin:0;white-space:nowrap}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile{padding-bottom:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop{font-size:22px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu{color:#fff}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop{font-size:32px}.sponsor-section__summary{color:#ebebeb;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-top:16px}.sponsor-section__advert{display:inline-block}.nav-menu{background-color:#0052a1;display:block;height:100%;left:0;min-height:100vh;opacity:0.98;overflow:auto;position:fixed;top:0;width:100vw}.nav-menu--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-menu--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-menu--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-menu--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-menu--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-menu__close-nav{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;padding:16px 8px 60px}.nav-menu__close-nav--desktop{padding:20px 16px 70px}.nav-menu__sponsored{background-color:rgba(34,34,34,0.5);height:100%;margin-bottom:32px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop{margin-bottom:44px}.nav-menu__sponsored-container{padding:20px 16px 16px 24px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container{margin:auto;max-width:1264px;padding:20px 16px 20px 100px}.nav-menu__follow-us{padding:52px 0 34px}.burger-nav{background:transparent;border:0;color:#0052a1;cursor:pointer;font-size:20px;outline:none;padding:0}.burger-nav--worklife{color:#0052a1}.burger-nav--future{color:#002856}.burger-nav--culture{color:#472479}.burger-nav--earth{color:#0fbb56}.burger-nav--travel{color:#589e50}.burger-nav--medium{font-size:16px}.burger-nav--small{font-size:12px} .open-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;padding:0;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.open-nav__icon{display:flex}.open-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px}.nav-build-bar{align-items:center;display:flex;height:auto;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;width:100%}.nav-build-bar--mobile{height:auto;justify-content:space-between}.nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content{white-space:pre-wrap}.nav-build-bar--tablet{height:58px}.nav-build-bar--desktop{height:60px}.nav-build-bar__links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;height:100%;justify-content:flex-end;margin-left:auto;overflow:hidden}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand{align-items:center;display:flex;margin-left:8px;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand{margin-left:0}.nav-build-bar__branding{display:flex;padding:0 8px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--tablet{padding:0 30px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--desktop{padding:0 80px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__title-content{border:1.78px solid;color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset;padding:8px;width:fit-content}.nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav{display:flex;height:48px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav-button{display:flex;padding-left:8px}.nav-build-bar__sponsored{background-color:#f6f6f6;border:1px solid #d3d3d3;height:48px;padding:0 16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop{padding-right:16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile{justify-content:flex-end;max-width:100px;width:100%}.nav-bar{background-color:#fff}.nav-bar__hidden-menu{display:none}.nav-bar__visible-menu{display:block}.nav-bar__no-scroll{max-height:100vh;overflow:hidden}.styled-dot{background-color:#5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;height:6px;width:6px}.styled-dot--no-cursor{cursor:unset}.styled-dot--medium{box-shadow:unset;height:10px;width:10px}.styled-dot--dark-blue{background-color:#193e6d}.styled-dot--purple{background-color:#362e67;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--black{background-color:#000;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--grey-green{background-color:#008e9b;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--dark-green{background-color:#589e50;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-dot--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-dot--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--worklife-prime{background-color:#0052a1}.styled-dot--future-prime{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--culture-prime{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth-prime{background-color:#0fbb56}.styled-dot--travel-prime{background-color:#589e50}.styled-dot--large{box-shadow:0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);height:16px;width:16px}.styled-dot--small{box-shadow:unset;height:8px;width:8px}.styled-dot--grey{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2)}.dot-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.dot-with-label__text{padding-left:8px}.dot-with-label__text a{text-decoration:none}.dot-with-label__text:hover h2{color:#adadad} .play-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.play-icon--red{color:#f00}.play-icon--grey{color:#999}.play-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.play-icon--large{font-size:20px} .camera-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.camera-icon--red{color:#f00}.camera-icon--grey{color:#999}.camera-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.camera-icon--large{font-size:20px} .info-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.info-icon--red{color:#f00}.info-icon--grey{color:#999}.info-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.info-icon--large{font-size:20px} .icon-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.icon-with-label__icon{padding-right:10px}.more-articles-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles-item__link{text-decoration:none}.more-articles-item__container{display:flex;width:100%}.more-articles-item__label{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:8px}.more-articles-item__type{margin-right:16px;position:relative}.more-articles-item__icon{color:#fff;font-size:12px;margin-right:8px}.more-articles-item__text{color:#fff;font-size:20px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;padding:0;position:relative;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7);transition:color 0.4s}.more-articles-item__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.more-articles-item__text--large{color:#ebebeb;font-size:30px;line-height:37px}.more-articles-item__container--column{flex-direction:column}.more-articles-item__image-container{position:relative}.more-articles-item--two-columns{margin-right:16px}.more-articles-item__label--desktop{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__label--tablet{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text{color:#adadad} .more-articles{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:cover;object-fit:cover;overflow:hidden;position:relative;transition:background-image 0.4s}.more-articles__heading{display:inline-block;margin:auto;max-width:1272px;padding:20px 0 0 16px;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles__stories{margin:10px 16px 42px;max-width:1232px;padding:8px;position:relative;z-index:4}.more-articles__stories--small{padding:0}.more-articles__stories--tablet{margin:24px 16px 72px;max-width:1216px}.more-articles__stories--desktop{margin:56px 48px 92px;max-width:1152px}.more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:16px}.more-articles__line{opacity:0.3;padding-top:16px;z-index:5}.more-articles__image-overlay{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.3);bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;z-index:1}.more-articles__image{opacity:0;transition:0.6s}.more-articles__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.more-articles__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.more-articles__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.more-articles__image--visible{opacity:1}.more-articles__story--two-columns,.more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:16px;width:310px}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n+3) .more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__stories--two-columns,.more-articles__stories--three-columns{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;padding:16px}.more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link,.more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link{pointer-events:all}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:50%}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2){padding-top:0}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:33%}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n+3){padding-top:0}.more-articles__heading--small{padding:20px 0 0 8px}.more-articles__heading--desktop{max-width:1264px;padding:38px 0 0 16px}.more-articles__heading--tablet{max-width:1264px;padding:24px 0 0 16px} .full-width-image-article{width:100%}.full-width-image-article__container{min-height:325px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.full-width-image-article__container--desktop{min-height:400px}.full-width-image-article__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text{align-items:center;color:#fff;left:50%;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label{display:inline-block;font-size:14.4px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:11px;text-transform:uppercase}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop{font-size:33.6px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author{font-size:16.6px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.13px;line-height:42px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:28px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop{margin-top:32px}.full-width-image-article__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__link{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .most-popular{background-color:#f9f9f9}.most-popular__inner{margin:0 auto;max-width:894px;padding:45px 24px 21px}.most-popular__inner--desktop{padding:47px 0 86px}.most-popular__header{color:#010101;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin:0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular__items{display:block}.most-popular__items--desktop{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:57px}.most-popular-item{box-sizing:border-box;padding-top:33px}.most-popular-item:last-of-type{margin-bottom:42px}.most-popular-item--desktop{padding:0 20px;width:calc(33.333%)}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+2){order:2;padding:38px 20px}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+3){order:3}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4){border-left:1px solid #dadada}.most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type{margin-bottom:0}.most-popular-item a{text-decoration:none}.most-popular-item__content{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;margin-top:5px}.most-popular-item__number{color:#cbcbcb;font-size:40px;font-style:italic;font-weight:bold;line-height:32px;margin:0 20px 0 0;width:25px}.most-popular-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 0 45px;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular-item__title{color:#2e2e2ecc;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.17px;line-height:22px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0}.most-popular-item__title--desktop{font-size:16px}.image-gallery-item{margin:26px 0}.image-gallery-item img{height:100%;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -3%;width:106%}@media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -16%;width:116%}}@media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -8%;width:108%}}@media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -42%;width:142%}}@media (min-width: 1366px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -55%;width:155%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin:20px 0;width:100%}@media (max-width: 599px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin-left:-3%;width:106%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{max-height:507px;min-height:463px}@media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{min-height:818px}} .StickyElementContent{transition:transform 0.5s}.StickyElementContent--is-undocked{left:0;position:fixed;top:0;width:100%}.StickyElementContent--is-hidden{transform:translateY(-100%)}.styled-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.styled-list__item{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:8px}.styled-list__item a{font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.styled-list__item--worklife a{color:#8beed9}.styled-list__item--future a{color:#ffc857}.styled-list__item--culture a{color:#472479}.styled-list__item--earth a{color:#002856}.styled-list__item--travel a{color:#002856}.styled-list__text{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-left:20px}.styled-list__dot{display:flex;margin-top:8px}.hero-header{align-items:center;display:flex}.hero-header__header{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#fff;font-size:38px;line-height:40px;margin:0;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7)}.hero-header__header--large{font-size:44px;line-height:48px}.hero-header__header--medium{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.hero-header__header--small{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.hero-header__header--black{color:#000;text-shadow:unset}.hero-header__header--grey{color:#adadad;text-shadow:unset}.error-page-header{position:relative}.error-page-header__headers{margin-bottom:16px;position:relative;z-index:1}.error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page-header__description{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:20px}.error-page-header__play-icon{margin-right:16px}.error-page-header__play-icon button{color:#adadad}.error-page-header__dot-label{display:flex} .error-page{position:relative}.error-page__container{margin-bottom:16px}.error-page__container--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page__title{margin-bottom:12px}.error-page__title--desktop{margin-bottom:24px} .article-title-card-rectangle{width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{opacity:1}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;transition:transform 0.5s ease;width:100%;will-change:transform}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.article-title-card-rectangle__image{margin-right:40px;max-height:390px;max-width:620px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:auto}.article-title-card-rectangle__image img{display:block;min-height:194px;min-width:344px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop{margin-right:0;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img{width:110%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article{margin-right:0}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--index{margin-right:0;max-width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article{margin-right:8px}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--index{align-items:initial;flex-direction:column}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box{background-color:#fff;margin-left:40px;padding:16px 22px 0;position:relative;top:-22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:20px;margin:0;text-transform:uppercase;width:fit-content}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index{color:#000;font-size:20px;font-weight:300;letter-spacing:-0.53px;line-height:30px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet{font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.74px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header{color:#2e2e2e;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:30px;margin-top:12px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop{font-size:28px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet{font-size:26px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index{color:#3d3d3d;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:16px;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px;margin-top:4px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:8px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet{margin:14px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{left:-40px;margin:0;padding:40px;top:0;transform:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet{padding:35px 22px 22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index{left:0;margin-right:40px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet{margin-left:50px;margin-right:50px;padding:30px 36px 0;top:-80px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop{margin-left:50px;max-width:560px;top:-88px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__link{color:#000;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container{display:block;max-width:252px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop{max-width:320px}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container{color:#4d4d4d;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text{display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin-top:27px;max-width:396px}.article-title-card-rectangle__read-more{display:inline-block;font-size:15px;letter-spacing:4px;margin:25px 16px 0 0;text-transform:uppercase}.article-title-card-rectangle__arrow{color:#bababa;display:inline-block;transform:rotate(-90deg)}.rectangle-story-group{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin:auto;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles{display:flex;flex:1;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet{justify-content:unset}.rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen{display:block}.rectangle-story-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-left:18px;padding-top:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--tablet{padding-left:20px;padding-top:22px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop{padding-left:22px;padding-top:24px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type{padding-left:8px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet{box-sizing:border-box;width:50%}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen{display:block;padding:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type{padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop{padding-left:10px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type{padding-right:8px}.rectangle-story-group__articles-container{margin:auto;max-width:950px;overflow:hidden;width:100%}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu{display:flex;justify-content:center;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;padding:16px 16px 24px}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop{border-left:1px solid #dadada;display:block;padding:0 0 0 16px;padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop{display:block;padding:0 0 0 8px}.rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop{display:flex}.rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet{display:flex}.article-labels{font-size:12px;line-height:16px;text-transform:uppercase}.article-labels a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:1px;text-decoration:none}.article-labels__text:first-child{font-weight:bold} .article-headline{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:43px 0}.article-headline .article-labels{text-align:center}.article-headline__line--short{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;text-align:center}.article-headline--tablet{padding:31px 0}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:24px}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;margin:0 15px 23px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile{padding:20px 0}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.63px;margin:0 15px 15px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:15px}.article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline__collection a{color:#242424}.article-headline__text{font-size:45px;letter-spacing:-1.26px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:44px} @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:900px;position:relative}.hero-image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}}@media only screen and (max-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:0;overflow:hidden;padding-top:56.25%;position:relative}.hero-image img{height:100%;left:0;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}}.loading-spinner{margin:0 auto;text-align:center}.loading-spinner__message{color:#002756;display:block;font-size:1.2rem;font-weight:bold;margin:12px 0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.loading-spinner__image{display:block;margin:0 auto;width:48px}.article-hero{height:672px;margin:0;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:100%}.article-hero--small-mobile{height:373px}.article-hero--mobile{height:486px}.article-hero--small-tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content{padding:60px 15px 0}.article-hero__content{margin:auto;max-width:1004px;pointer-events:none;position:relative;z-index:1}.article-hero--desktop{height:573px}.article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content{padding:50px 30px 0}.article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content{max-width:1276px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content{padding:60px 10px 0}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title{font-size:24px;line-height:30px;max-width:220px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line{margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:16px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels{margin-bottom:15px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta{line-height:22px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a{letter-spacing:3px}.article-hero__ambient-hidden{display:none}.article-hero__background-ambient{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;z-index:-1}.article-hero__background::after{background-image:linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0,0,0,0) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.06) 24%, rgba(0,0,0,0.2) 51%, rgba(0,0,0,0.32) 67%, rgba(0,0,0,0.51) 100%);content:'';height:100%;left:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-hero__background img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-hero__background--parallax img{transform:scale(1.1)}.article-hero a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:3px;text-decoration:none}.article-hero__content-cta{clear:both;font-size:16px;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:4px;line-height:20px;max-width:170px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 2px 4px rgba(0,0,0,0.5);text-transform:uppercase}.article-hero__content-cta a{display:flex;letter-spacing:4px}.article-hero__content-labels{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin-bottom:20px;pointer-events:all}.article-hero__content-line{background-color:#fff;border:0;display:block;float:left;height:1px;margin-bottom:18px;margin-right:300px;margin-top:25px;width:120px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow{position:relative}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::before{background:#fff;content:'';height:2px;left:5px;margin-top:-1px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;top:50%;transition:all 0.3s ease;width:20px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::after{border-right:2px solid #fff;border-top:2px solid #fff;content:'';display:inline-block;height:10px;left:16px;margin-top:5px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;transform:rotate(45deg);width:10px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before{opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after{margin-top:6px;opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow img{height:11px;margin-left:10px;width:19px}.article-hero__content-title{color:#fff;font-size:50px;line-height:54px;margin-top:0;max-width:450px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.7)}.article-hero__content-title a{letter-spacing:-1.32px}.article-hero__title-text{display:inline}.article-hero__content-title>a:hover>div,.article-hero__content-subtitle>a:hover{background-image:linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%);background-position:0 1.15em;background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:100% 2px}.article-hero__content-subtitle{clear:both;color:#fff;font-size:23px;font-weight:500;line-height:32px;margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:0;max-width:440px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.5)}.article-hero__content-subtitle a{letter-spacing:-1px}.article-hero__content-title--small{font-size:30px;line-height:35px}.article-hero__content-title--tablet{clear:both;font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:42px;max-width:264px}.article-hero__content-title--small a{letter-spacing:-0.63px}.article-hero__down-arrow{background-color:transparent;border:0;bottom:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;left:calc(50% - 29px);margin:0;margin-bottom:15px;padding:0;position:absolute;transform:scale(0.5)}.see-more-button-container{color:#fff}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button__inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase;transition:linear 0.6s}.see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px;transition:linear 0.3s}.see-more-button__inner-text{margin-right:24px}.see-more-button__inner:hover{color:#4a4a4a}.see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#4a4a4a;transform:rotate(90deg)} @media screen and (min-width: 1000px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:900px}}@media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:600px}}@media screen and (max-width: 600px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:300px}}.related-articles{position:relative}.related-articles__header{text-align:center;background-color:#000;color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:8px;text-transform:uppercase}.related-articles__header--bright{margin:20px 0 1.15ex;font-size:13px;background-color:#d8d8d8;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.7);letter-spacing:2px;line-height:3}.related-articles__list{list-style:none;padding:0 0 1.5ex 0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap}.related-articles__list li{flex-basis:100%;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;justify-content:flex-start;align-items:stretch;align-content:stretch}.related-articles__list li>div{flex:1}.related-articles__list.with-numbers{counter-reset:related-numbers;list-style-image:url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7);margin:0 35px}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before{counter-increment:related-numbers;content:counter(related-numbers);font-weight:bold;font-size:40px;align-self:flex-end;line-height:1.85;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.18);flex:0.1 0.1;flex-basis:1ex;padding-right:1ex;text-align:center;display:block}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li{margin-bottom:10px}.related-articles--wide-layout{background-color:initial;margin-top:20px}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li{max-width:100%}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type){border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li{max-width:49.8%}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}.related-article{align-items:stretch;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;box-sizing:border-box;font-size:16px;min-height:90px}.related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);flex:0.3 0.3;min-width:90px;max-width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);margin:0;display:block;line-height:0;order:-1}.related-article__image img{width:100%;border:0;margin:0 12px 0 0}.related-article__text{display:flex;flex-flow:column nowrap;width:100%;justify-content:flex-start;align-content:flex-start;position:relative;padding:12px 6px 12px 0;line-height:1.5}.related-article__text a{width:100%;padding-left:12px;display:flex;text-decoration:none}.related-article__text a+a{margin-top:1ex}.related-article__text br{display:none}.related-article__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);letter-spacing:-0.01em;flex:1}.related-article__title:hover{color:#2e2e2e}.related-article__collection{display:block;color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.5px;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.related-article__collection span{display:none}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article{margin:0.75ex 0}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover{background-color:#f9f9f9}.related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images a:hover{color:#000}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title{padding-left:10px}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 15px);max-width:calc(90px + 15px);margin:0}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img{border-radius:50%}.related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.75ex 1.75ex} .vertical-story-card-item{cursor:pointer;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;height:456px;margin:20px 10px;position:relative;width:297px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}.vertical-story-card-item img{width:100%}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{background-color:#fff;bottom:0;box-shadow:0 0 5px #d8d8d8;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:111px;justify-content:center;position:absolute;right:0;width:275px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{width:261px}}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:0.75rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0;padding:0 10px;text-transform:uppercase}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2{color:#3d3d3d;font-size:1.3125rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.06px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0 10px} .vertical-story-group{font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;position:relative}.vertical-story-group img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container{height:370px;position:relative;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container img{height:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-mask{background:linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0,0,0,0.6), rgba(0,0,0,0));bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container{top:120px}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:0;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:absolute;right:0;top:65px;width:70%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{margin-top:50px}}.vertical-story-group__container{display:grid;grid-auto-rows:minmax(auto, auto);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px));height:100%;justify-content:center;justify-items:center;margin-top:-210px;width:100%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__container{margin-top:-120px}}.beta-btn{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;line-height:12px;padding:0 7px;width:66px}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)} .location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase} .temperature-switcher{background:transparent;border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 0.2ex} .day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:0.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:0.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%} .weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0} .destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:0.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .image-card{position:relative}.image-card img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-card__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.image-card__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.image-card__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:90%}.image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}.image-card__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px} .filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848} .callout-box-card{background-color:#eaeaea;color:#4a4a4a;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:left}.callout-box-card img{height:100%;width:100%}.callout-box-card__container{padding:0.2rem 1.5rem}.callout-box-card__container h3{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin:1rem 0;text-transform:uppercase}.callout-box-card__container h4{font-size:28px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:35px}.callout-box-card__container .body{font-size:16px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px}.callout-box-card__container .body a{color:#4a4a4a;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-map{font:12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;overflow:hidden;position:relative;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(0,0,0,0)}.mapboxgl-canvas{position:absolute;left:0;top:0}.mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen{width:100%;height:100%}.mapboxgl-canary{background-color:salmon}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass{cursor:-webkit-grab;cursor:-moz-grab;cursor:grab;-moz-user-select:none;-webkit-user-select:none;-ms-user-select:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer{cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active{cursor:-webkit-grabbing;cursor:-moz-grabbing;cursor:grabbing}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pan-x pan-y}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pinch-zoom}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{position:absolute;pointer-events:none;z-index:2}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left{bottom:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right{right:0;bottom:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl{clear:both;pointer-events:auto;transform:translate(0)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 0 0 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 10px 0 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 0 10px 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 10px 10px 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group{border-radius:4px;background:#fff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){-moz-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);-webkit-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){box-shadow:0 0 0 2px ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button{width:29px;height:29px;display:block;padding:0;outline:none;border:0;box-sizing:border-box;background-color:transparent;cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid #ddd}.mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-position:50%}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner{border:0;padding:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled{cursor:not-allowed}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{opacity:.25}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible){box-shadow:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child{border-radius:4px 4px 0 0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child{border-radius:0 0 4px 4px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child{border-radius:inherit}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-webkit-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-webkit-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-moz-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-moz-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-moz-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-o-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-o-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-o-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-ms-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-ms-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}to{transform:rotate(1turn)}}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{width:88px;height:23px;margin:0 0 -4px -4px;display:block;background-repeat:no-repeat;cursor:pointer;overflow:hidden;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220425054944im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact{width:23px}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-color:transparent;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220425054944im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='3' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220425054944im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib{padding:0 5px;background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);margin:0}@media screen{.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact{min-height:20px;padding:0;margin:10px;position:relative;background-color:#fff;border-radius:3px 12px 12px 3px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 24px 2px 4px;visibility:visible;margin-top:6px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 4px 2px 24px;border-radius:12px 3px 3px 12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:block}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{content:"";cursor:pointer;position:absolute;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);width:24px;height:24px;box-sizing:border-box;border-radius:12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;left:0}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a{color:rgba(0,0,0,0.75);text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover{color:inherit;text-decoration:underline}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map{font-weight:700;margin-left:2px}.mapboxgl-attrib-empty{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-scale{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.75);font-size:10px;border:2px solid #333;border-top:#333;padding:0 5px;color:#333;box-sizing:border-box}.mapboxgl-popup{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;display:-webkit-flex;display:flex;will-change:transform;pointer-events:none}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column-reverse;flex-direction:column-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left{-webkit-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right{-webkit-flex-direction:row-reverse;flex-direction:row-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-tip{width:0;height:0;border:10px solid transparent;z-index:1}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-top:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-top:none;border-left:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-bottom:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-bottom:none;border-right:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-left:none;border-right-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-right:none;border-left-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button{position:absolute;right:0;top:0;border:0;border-radius:0 3px 0 0;cursor:pointer;background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-popup-content{position:relative;background:#fff;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);padding:10px 10px 15px;pointer-events:auto}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer *{pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:flex}.mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-marker{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;will-change:transform}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot,.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{background-color:#1da1f2;width:15px;height:15px;border-radius:50%}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{content:"";position:absolute;-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after{border-radius:50%;border:2px solid #fff;content:"";height:19px;left:-2px;position:absolute;top:-2px;width:19px;box-sizing:border-box;box-shadow:0 0 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.35)}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-webkit-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-ms-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale{background-color:#aaa}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after{display:none}.mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle{background-color:rgba(29,161,242,0.2);width:1px;height:1px;border-radius:100%}.mapboxgl-crosshair,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active{cursor:crosshair}.mapboxgl-boxzoom{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:0;height:0;background:#fff;border:2px dotted #202020;opacity:.5}@media print{.mapbox-improve-map{display:none}}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.mapContainer .mapTitle{background:transparent;color:#fff;display:block;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:1.1875em;margin-top:2%;min-width:25%;padding:2%;padding-bottom:0.375em;padding-left:8px;padding-right:16px;padding-top:0.375em;position:relative;text-align:center;z-index:100}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapTitle{font-size:2.4em}}.mapContainer .styled-line{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.mapContainer button{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.9);border:0;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;display:block;height:60px;outline:none;padding:2px;width:60px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{color:#589e50;font-size:2.5em;vertical-align:middle}.mapContainer button:hover{background-color:#f2f2f2}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer button{height:50px;width:50px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{font-size:2em}}.mapContainer .navigationPanel{align-items:flex-end;bottom:0;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;max-width:1200px;padding:10px;position:absolute;transform:translate(-50%, 0);width:100%}.mapContainer .zoomControls{background-color:#fff}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-radius:0;box-shadow:0 3px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.1) !important;cursor:default;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;max-width:300px;padding:0 !important;text-align:left}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:300px}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{max-width:190px}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:190px}}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{display:none !important}.mapContainer .map-marker svg{transition:all 0.1s ease-out}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker svg{height:52px;transform:scale(0.75)}}.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{transform:scale(1.3)}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{height:52px;transform:scale(1)}}.mapContainer__articleInfo{padding:0 18px}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin:0.725em 0}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);text-decoration:none}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:1.7em}}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:1.45em 0;text-decoration:none}html,body{margin:0;padding:0}#root *,#root *::before,#root *::after{box-sizing:border-box}#root article,#root aside,#root figure,#root footer,#root header,#root nav,#root section{display:block}body{background:#fff}.app__body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-height:100vh;overflow:visible;position:relative}.app__domestic-disclaimer{bottom:0;position:fixed;width:100%;z-index:5000}.main{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column} .navigation{display:none;margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:4px 16px 0;position:relative;z-index:1000}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.navigation{max-width:976px}}@media (min-width: 600px){.navigation{padding:0 16px 1px}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.navigation{max-width:990px}}@media (min-width: 300px) and (max-width: 399px){.navigation{padding:4px 8px}}.navigation>.nav-bar{background-color:unset;margin-top:1px}.navigation--display{display:block}.navigation-sticky--undocked{background-color:#fff;width:100%;z-index:10000}.StickyElement{position:relative;z-index:1501} .loader{display:none;height:100%;left:-99999px;opacity:0;position:absolute;top:0;transition:0.2s opacity;width:100%;z-index:1000}.loader--is-active{background:#fff;display:block;left:0;opacity:1}.loader__body{display:none;left:50%;position:fixed;top:50%;transform:translateX(-50%) translateY(-50%)}.loader__body--show-loader{display:block}.no-js .loader{display:none} .vertical-index{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column}.vertical-index__collection-swimlane{min-height:400px}.vertical-index .article-hero__content{margin-top:106px;padding-left:25px}.vertical-index__full-width-ad{background-color:#f1f1f1;padding:25px}.vertical-index__latest-articles{margin-top:35px}.vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile{margin-top:28px}.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:16px 0 0}@media (min-width: 1008px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{padding:16px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:990px;padding:8px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{max-width:976px}}.vertical-index__storyworks-section>div>div.bbccom_visible>div{background:#f1f1f1;display:inline-block;padding:8px !important}.vertical-index__full-width-ad .bbccom_standard_slot,.vertical-index__hero-article-leaderboard .bbccom_standard_slot{background-color:transparent !important} .latest-articles__container{margin-bottom:24px}.latest-articles__container--tablet{margin-bottom:26px}.latest-articles__container--desktop{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__articles{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle{margin:auto 8px}.latest-articles__editor{color:#020202;font-stretch:normal;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2.92px;margin:0 0 22px}.latest-articles__editor--tablet{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__editor--desktop{margin-bottom:36px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu>div{padding:0 8px 8px !important}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert>div{padding:0}.latest-articles__rectangle .bbccom_mpu_bottom{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px;padding-bottom:8px !important} </style> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/features_prod.js"></script> </head> <body> <div id="cookiePrompt"></div> <noscript><p style="position: absolute; top: -999em"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://a1.api.bbc.co.uk/hit.xiti?&col=1&from=p&ptag=js&s=598253&p=travel.page&x2=[responsive]&x3=[bbc_website]&x4=[en]&x7=[index-home]&x8=[reverb-3.4.0-nojs]&x11=[FEATURE_SITES_GNL]&x12=[GNL_TRAVEL]" height="1" width="1" alt=""></p></noscript><div id="bbccom_interstitial_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_interstitial" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper" class="bbccom_display_none"></div> <div class="orbit-header-container" id="orbit-header"><header id="orb-banner" role="banner" aria-label="BBC" class="orbit-header geo orbit-default orbit-language-en orbit-ux-v4"><div id="orb-header" class="orb-nav-pri orb-nav-pri-white orb-nav-empty" dir="ltr"><div class="orb-nav-pri-container b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-blocks"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/" id="homepage-link">Homepage</a></div><section><div class="orb-skip-links"><h2>Accessibility links</h2><ul><li><a href="#orb-modules">Skip to content</a></li><li><a id="orb-accessibility-help" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li></ul></div></section><div id="mybbc-wrapper" class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-id orb-nav-focus orb-nav-id-default"> <div id="idcta-statusbar" class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-focus" data-bbc-container="id-cta" data-bbc-event-type="click" data-bbc-ignore-views="1" data-bbc-metadata="{"id-cta-type": "statusbar-orb"}" data-bbc-source="responsive_web" data-bbc-title="id-cta-sign-in"><a id="idcta-link" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://account.bbc.com/account"><span id="idcta-username">BBC Account</span></a></div><script type="text/javascript">require(['idcta/statusbar'], function (statusbar) {new statusbar.Statusbar({id: 'idcta-statusbar', publiclyCacheable: true});});</script><a id="notification-link" class="js-notification-link animated three" href="#" style="display: none"><span class="hidden-span">Notifications</span><div class="notification-link--triangle"></div><div class="notification-link--triangle"></div><span id="not-num"></span></a> </div><nav class="orbit-header-links domestic"><ul><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul></nav><nav class="orbit-header-links international"><ul><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></nav><div id="orb-nav-more"><a href="#orbit-more-drawer" id="orbit-more-button"><span class="more-mobile">Menu</span><span class="more-desktop">More</span><span class="orb-icon orb-icon-arrow"></span></a></div><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-search" role="search"> <a id="orbit-search-button" class="orbit-search__button" aria-expanded="false" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search?scope=all" title="Search BBC">Search BBC</a> </div></div><div id="orb-panels"></div></div></header><div id="orbit-drawer-container" class="orbit-drawer-container"></div><section class="orbit-more-drawer geo orbit-default orbit-language-en" id="orbit-more-drawer"><div class="orbit-more-drawer-content"><ul class="more-domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="more-international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul><a href="#" class="orbit-more-drawer-close"><svg width="32" height="32" viewbox="0 0 28 28" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><title>Close menu</title><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M7.48651 5.71054L5.79834 7.39871L12.3428 14.0225L5.81992 20.6229L7.46434 22.2673L13.9778 15.6768L20.5123 22.2895H20.5135L22.2017 20.6007L15.6567 13.9781L22.1795 7.37712L20.5351 5.73271L14.0216 12.3232L7.48651 5.71054Z"></svg></a></div></section></div>  <div id="orb-modules"> <div id="root"><div id="ad-portal"></div><nav class="navigation navigation--display"><div class="nav-bar"><div class="nav-build-bar nav-build-bar--desktop"><div class="nav-build-bar__branding nav-build-bar__branding--desktop"><a class="branding branding--travel branding--large" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span class="branding__icon branding__icon--travel branding__icon--large"><svg version="1.1" id="Layer_1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 84.8 15.8" style="enable-background:new 0 0 84.8 15.8;" xml:space="preserve"><style type="text/css"> .st0{fill:#FFFFFF;} </style><g><path class="st0" d="M0,0h13.1v2.4H7.9v13.4H5.1V2.4H0V0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M18.1,9.7v6h-2.8V0h5.4c2,0,3.6,0.4,4.7,1.3c1.1,0.8,1.6,2,1.6,3.6c0,1-0.3,1.9-0.8,2.7 C25.7,8.3,25,8.9,24,9.2c0.7,1.1,1.4,2.1,2.1,3.2s1.3,2.2,2,3.3h-3.2c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.2,0-0.4,0-0.6,0 H18.1z M18.1,2.2v5.3h2.5c1.2,0,2.1-0.2,2.8-0.6c0.6-0.4,0.9-1.1,0.9-2s-0.3-1.6-0.9-2s-1.5-0.6-2.7-0.6h-2.6V2.2z"></path><path class="st0" d="M42.2,15.8c-0.2-0.6-0.4-1.3-0.7-1.9c-0.2-0.6-0.5-1.3-0.7-1.9h-6.9c-0.2,0.6-0.5,1.3-0.7,1.9 c-0.2,0.6-0.4,1.3-0.7,1.9h-3c1-2.8,2-5.5,3.1-8.1C33.7,5,34.8,2.5,35.9,0h3c1.1,2.6,2.2,5.3,3.3,7.9s2.1,5.3,3.1,7.9H42.2z M34.7,9.6h5.2c-0.4-1.2-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4c-0.4-1.1-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4C36.9,3.9,36.4,5,36,6.2C35.6,7.3,35.2,8.5,34.7,9.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M58.6,0c-1,2.6-2,5.3-3,7.9s-2.1,5.3-3.1,7.9h-3c-1.1-2.6-2.1-5.2-3.2-7.9c-1-2.6-2-5.3-3-7.9h3 c0.8,2.2,1.5,4.3,2.3,6.5s1.6,4.3,2.4,6.5c0.8-2.1,1.6-4.3,2.4-6.5c0.8-2.2,1.5-4.3,2.3-6.5H58.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M60.7,0h10.6v2.4h-7.7v4.1h6.9v2.4h-6.9v4.6h8.2v2.4h-11L60.7,0L60.7,0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M74.3,0h2.8v13.4h7.8v2.4H74.3V0z"></path></g></svg></span></a></div><div id="nav-build-bar__links" class="nav-build-bar__links"><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culture-identity"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Culture</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Food</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Discovery</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/destinations"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Destinations</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Collections</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/http://bbc.in/1JY27sX" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">About us</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.in/3zDE6sk" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">50 Reasons to Love the World</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.in/3jXnK59" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Untold America</p></a></div><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav"><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav-button"><button class="open-nav" aria-label="Open more navigation" aria-haspopup="true" aria-expanded="false" id="open-nav"><div class="open-nav__label"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">More</p></div><div class="open-nav__icon"><div class="burger-nav gelicon--menu burger-nav--travel"></div></div></button></div></div></div></div></nav><div class="app__body"><div class="loader loader--is-active"><div class="loader__body loader__body--show-loader"><div class="loading-spinner"><span class="loading-spinner__image"><span class="spinner--travel"><svg class="spinner__image" viewbox="0 0 32 32" id="gel-icon-loading" width="100%" height="100%"><path d="M29.8 8l-3.5 2c1 1.8 1.6 3.8 1.6 6 0 6.6-5.4 12-12 12S4 22.6 4 16 9.4 4 16 4V0C7.2 0 0 7.2 0 16s7.2 16 16 16 16-7.2 16-16c0-2.9-.8-5.6-2.2-8z"></path></svg></span></span><span class="loading-spinner__message b-reith-sans-font">Loading</span></div></div></div><main class="main"><div class="vertical-index"><div class="vertical-index__article-hero"><div data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="The surprising cuisine of Indian Jews" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><span>Food & Hospitality</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/food-drink">Food & Drink</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food"><div class="article-hero__title-text"> The surprising cuisine of Indian Jews </div><hr class="article-hero__content-line"/></a></div><div class="article-hero__content-cta"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food">Read More<div class="article-hero__content-right-arrow"></div></a></div></div><button tabindex="0" class="article-hero__down-arrow"><img src="data:image/png;base64,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" alt="down-arrow"/></button><div class="article-hero__background"><picture><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0by85qg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0by85qg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0by85qg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0by85qg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: g01xm/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0by85qg.jpg" alt="(Credit: g01xm/Getty Images)" id="article-hero-img-js"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Editor's Picks</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The island banning private vehicles" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c1d43m.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c1d43m.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c1d43m.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c1d43m.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c1d43m.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c1d43m.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c1d43m.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c1d43m.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="With a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle as their main form of transport (Credit: Anders Blomqvist/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c1d43m.jpg" alt="With a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle as their main form of transport (Credit: Anders Blomqvist/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Discovery</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The island banning private vehicles</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Alba Jaramillo</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c03px1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c03px1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c03px1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c03px1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c03px1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c03px1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c03px1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c03px1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c03px1.jpg" alt="(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><span>Forgotten Foods</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood"><span>The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Mark Eveleigh</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Australia's trail where life began" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bw8g6t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bw8g6t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bw8g6t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bw8g6t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bw8g6t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bw8g6t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bw8g6t.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bw8g6t.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Flinders have been called “one great outdoor museum” (Credit: Piter Lenk/Alamy Stock Photo)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bw8g6t.jpg" alt="The Flinders have been called “one great outdoor museum” (Credit: Piter Lenk/Alamy Stock Photo)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/geological-marvels"><span>Geological Marvels</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began"><span>Australia's trail where life began</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Tracey Croke</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A stunning drive in the French Riviera" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bzj3z1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bzj3z1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bzj3z1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bzj3z1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bzj3z1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bzj3z1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bzj3z1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bzj3z1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest (Credit: Pierre Longnus/Getty)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bzj3z1.jpg" alt="The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest (Credit: Pierre Longnus/Getty)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/the-open-road"><span>The Open Road</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route"><span>A stunning drive in the French Riviera</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Chrissie McClatchie</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="World's Table" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container full-width-image-article__container--desktop"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" alt="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">Changing how the world thinks about food</span></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop">World's Table</h2></a></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0btsf8j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0btsf8j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0btsf8j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0btsf8j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0btsf8j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0btsf8j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0btsf8j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0btsf8j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0btsf8j.jpg" alt="Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/geological-marvels"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Geological Marvels</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Phoebe Smith</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A vegan-loving city sued by McDonald's" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bvwqjp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bvwqjp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bvwqjp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bvwqjp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bvwqjp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bvwqjp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bvwqjp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bvwqjp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Westend61/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bvwqjp.jpg" alt="(Credit: Westend61/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/green-cities"><span>Green Cities</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city"><span>A vegan-loving city sued by McDonald's</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Srishti Chaudhary</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The oldest place on Earth?" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bc2yw5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bc2yw5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bc2yw5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bc2yw5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bc2yw5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bc2yw5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bc2yw5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bc2yw5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Dan Avila)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bc2yw5.jpg" alt="(Credit: Dan Avila)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/in-pictures"><span>In Pictures</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth"><span>The oldest place on Earth?</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Dan Avila</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Spain's 'white gold' super-drink" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bqwmh7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0bqwmh7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bqwmh7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0bqwmh7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bqwmh7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bqwmh7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bqwmh7.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bqwmh7.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Agefotostock/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bqwmh7.jpg" alt="(Credit: Agefotostock/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><span>Food & Hospitality</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink"><span>Spain's 'white gold' super-drink</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Vicky Smith</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__most-popular-container"><div class="most-popular"><div class="most-popular__inner most-popular__inner--desktop"><h2 class="most-popular__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-800">Most Popular</h2><div class="most-popular__items most-popular__items--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The world's most agile countries" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::0"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/as-the-world-opens"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">As the World Opens</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">1</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The world's most agile countries</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The nation finding peace underwater" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">2</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The nation finding peace underwater</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Iceland's unsung 'herring girls'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">3</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Iceland's unsung 'herring girls'</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The return of France's lost lemon" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Forgotten Foods</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">4</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The return of France's lost lemon</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Sri Lanka's last indigenous people" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/our-unique-world"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Our Unique World</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">5</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Sri Lanka's last indigenous people</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Japan's humble birthplace of soy sauce" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::5"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">6</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Japan's humble birthplace of soy sauce</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The healers who treat 'bad luck'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::6"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/well-world"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Well World</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">7</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The healers who treat 'bad luck'</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Africa's global biodiversity hotspot" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::7"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Discovery</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">8</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Africa's global biodiversity hotspot</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Antarctica's volatile 'Deception Island'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::8"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">9</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Antarctica's volatile 'Deception Island'</h2></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = {"router":{"location":{"pathname":"\u002Ftravel","search":"","hash":"","state":undefined,"key":"gmx4jw"},"action":"POP"},"config":{"version":"2.2.3","adsEnabled":false,"domain":"www.bbc.com","env":"live","clientApiUrl":"\u002Fdata","faqsUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffaqs","mapboxAccessToken":"pk.eyJ1IjoiYmJjd29ybGR3aWRlIiwiYSI6ImNpemp2dWZ0OTAwNGkyd3I0bHV6ems3eDMifQ.Vxn6FQ8xNwEltlVVvwpCjw","imageRecipe":{"recipePrefix":"live\u002F"},"analytics":{"ati":{"destination":"FEATURE_SITES_GNL","producer":"GNL_HOMEPAGE"},"chartbeat":{"uid":50924,"domain":"bbc.co.uk"}},"entityRouterProtocol":"https","swimlanes":true,"future":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Future","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_FUTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCFuture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbcfuture_official","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official"}},"facebookPageIds":"279678448760878"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"BBC Future Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp08gp0tv.jpg"},"future-planet":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp0836dcl.jpg","collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqy6.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09sbm5d.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.future","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"future"},"metaData":{"description":"You’ll find stories on BBC Future on almost every topic that matters: psychology, food, climate change, health, social trends, technology and more.","titleDefault":"BBC Future","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_FUTURE"}}},"worklife":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCWorklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCWorklife"},"instagram":{"username":"BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"}},"facebookPageIds":"133536249999517"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"image"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06dkks1.jpg"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.worklife","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"worklife"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest insight and advice from BBC Worklife: careers, milestones, leadership, personal finance, economy, future of work, wellness, professional life abroad - everything you need to upgrade yourself.","titleDefault":"BBC Worklife","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CAPITAL"}},"swimlanes":[{"id":"office-space","title":"Office Space","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp00sm03v.jpg"},{"id":"work-ethic","title":"Work Ethic","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06yflr4.jpg"}]},"culture":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_CULTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCCulture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCCulture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_culture"}},"facebookPageIds":"237388053065908"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"BBC Culture Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp08bmlwb.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.culture","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"culture"},"metaData":{"description":"Covering the latest in global arts and culture in all its forms, BBC Culture gives an international view of film and TV, books, art, music and style.","titleDefault":"BBC Culture","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CULTURE"}}},"travel":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_TRAVEL"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCTravel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel"}},"facebookPageIds":"147105585468223"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"BBC Travel Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp099tg7y.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"destination":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq1x8.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq221.jpg","title":"Tag background image"},"destinationImageCard":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F2000x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination Image Card Background"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.travel","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"travel"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing.","titleDefault":"BBC Travel","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_TRAVEL"}}},"moduleId":"travel","isUk":false,"ua":{"ua":"Amazon CloudFront","browser":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined,"major":undefined},"engine":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"os":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"device":{"vendor":undefined,"model":undefined,"type":undefined},"cpu":{"architecture":undefined}},"cacheExpiryMs":600000},"entities":{"authors":{"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi","_id":"624ec6c01f4b7b2a27220f90","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Anita Rao Kashi","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-03-30T03:20:01.512254Z","entity":"author","guid":"6f950f68-9c03-45f0-b7c6-087bf67e1662","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T03:20:01.512254Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo","_id":"624ec6ab1f4b7b6b6d5a420c","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Alba Jaramillo","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-03-14T15:15:41.072092Z","entity":"author","guid":"d79d69ec-9efc-4c97-baf8-3f72a0e0782b","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-14T15:15:41.072092Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh","_id":"624ec6c51f4b7b4f47177bbd","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Mark Eveleigh","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:22:14.282658Z","entity":"author","guid":"ad9e6fcf-eb4a-493b-b90e-5cc2b1306c5d","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:02:50.043496Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","_id":"624ec6b61f4b7b68593c734a","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Tracey Croke","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-03-18T16:24:09.435167Z","entity":"author","guid":"9b6dd468-093b-4401-bf94-5614595c920d","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-18T16:24:09.435167Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchrissie-mcclatchie":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchrissie-mcclatchie","_id":"624ec6bf1f4b7b4f872a50c7","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Chrissie McClatchie","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:46:16.49754Z","entity":"author","guid":"1fd8f781-ca16-4031-94c3-53e251d892b6","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchrissie-mcclatchie","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:17:40.502104Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchrissie-mcclatchie","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fphoebe-smith":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fphoebe-smith","_id":"624ec6c71f4b7b68586e5479","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Phoebe Smith","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-02-03T10:23:37.94965Z","entity":"author","guid":"82c9dbe3-b850-4a1c-adac-c9c57cb9d262","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fphoebe-smith","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:17:24.638911Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fphoebe-smith","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsrishti-chaudhary":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsrishti-chaudhary","_id":"624ec6b51f4b7b4fc9065e72","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Srishti Chaudhary","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:45:32.320319Z","entity":"author","guid":"ee3ef429-7c13-4871-88c3-861bdec00941","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsrishti-chaudhary","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:32:05.244716Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsrishti-chaudhary","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila","_id":"624ec6ad1f4b7b2a1f768afe","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Dan Avila","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-12-20T05:53:15.994283Z","entity":"author","guid":"c69dc03e-5e99-4f29-8c3d-ae15927ce0eb","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:21:03.231566Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith","_id":"624ec6b61f4b7b4f5a1d1370","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Vicky Smith","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-07-02T05:07:05.76808Z","entity":"author","guid":"baa5eb63-3172-4dc6-8e25-8584399d6343","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:42:46.831515Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway","_id":"624ec6b11f4b7b684a3ca828","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Lindsey Galloway","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:17:59.571957Z","entity":"author","guid":"02866b57-59f0-48f0-8b41-8cd2c3f504fa","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:57:22.23157Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheather-richardson":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheather-richardson","_id":"624ec6af1f4b7b68586e545d","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Heather Richardson","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:01:16.09714Z","entity":"author","guid":"cf71535b-e9ea-4382-89da-2c97d6a037d0","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheather-richardson","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:36:19.628265Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheather-richardson","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjulia-eskins":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjulia-eskins","_id":"624ec6c61f4b7b4f4d2d8323","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Julia Eskins","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T03:12:59.770962Z","entity":"author","guid":"1b910a35-a8a2-4a24-bec0-d2ca2945ead8","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjulia-eskins","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-28T03:12:59.770962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjulia-eskins","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-muckerman":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-muckerman","_id":"624ec6bf1f4b7b4f75438a2f","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Anna Muckerman","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:37:13.6062Z","entity":"author","guid":"a628a8b6-e90e-4f61-a2f2-3f5bb516cf66","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-muckerman","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:06:26.303646Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-muckerman","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzinara-rathnayake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzinara-rathnayake","_id":"624ec6de1f4b7b52c725ec54","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Zinara Rathnayake","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:55:44.729339Z","entity":"author","guid":"8f271804-90aa-4f55-9eda-4f5906149617","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzinara-rathnayake","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:45:24.721592Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzinara-rathnayake","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller","_id":"624ec6b61f4b7b4f5a1d136f","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Tom Schiller","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:52:20.601639Z","entity":"author","guid":"edaea81d-ec2e-4be0-aab3-14530d3df33e","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:40:56.980612Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes","_id":"624ec6af1f4b7b198f1c74c3","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Heide Brandes","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:01:24.46204Z","entity":"author","guid":"05420bde-f74b-41e8-99dd-935b7273d2f8","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:36:29.29231Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson","_id":"624ec6b11f4b7b684f786275","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Mark Johanson","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:22:18.824335Z","entity":"author","guid":"8b5ddd81-0135-435f-b410-91c4cc8ae74d","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:02:55.063919Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490}},"collections":{"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b4f4b255138","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Immerse yourself in local food, drink, traditions and customs, while experiencing a shared humanity.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Food & Hospitality","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Food & Hospitality","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:50.540524Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e61b2885-5eb8-45f1-a6eb-96b493b11e7f","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:52:25.529035Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b353b6a8846","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"See where old and new intersect, often with technology and innovation, taking travellers to places they’ve never experienced before.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Discovery","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Discovery","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:38.257106Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2bde5558-58fd-40d9-acb8-3f69d31e26d2","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:55.231739Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b4f75438a28","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Capture the essence of a place through its culture, language and people – and change your perceptions of the world.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Culture & Identity","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Culture & Identity","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:30.132104Z","entity":"collection","guid":"b6186a2c-c139-4b80-b3ed-0f393559a050","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:46.072444Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","_id":"624ec6e61f4b7b52c95b97fb","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn where there's hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Forgotten Foods","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Forgotten Foods","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T19:03:38.714836Z","entity":"collection","guid":"dca8d01c-e559-4723-9d78-4685b64af0ff","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T15:15:56.302477Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b198c29b3dd","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Geological Marvels is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural phenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Phong Nha, Vietnam","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Geological Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Geological Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-10-19T03:40:56.445195Z","entity":"collection","guid":"b83511aa-a4ef-477c-9601-56c14c59fa98","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:52:50.478086Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","_id":"624ec6bd1f4b7b549861b5ea","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and be reminded that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"The Open Road","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"The Open Road","creationDateTime":"2022-02-18T17:00:25.71395Z","entity":"collection","guid":"fbda3990-fef0-4b0c-a357-3a767de76d98","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-05T17:08:16.806302Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","image":["p0bpz96n"],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","_id":"624ec6e31f4b7b353b6a88ae","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Journey to all corners of the planet to uncover secret worlds, lost treasures and extraordinary locations – and meet the people along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Adventure & Experience","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Adventure & Experience","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:56:48.853744Z","entity":"collection","guid":"7a457878-4baf-4a02-82b9-0b3f407bd073","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:48:52.772915Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b702f4403e6","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Green Cities is a BBC Travel series that profiles innovative cities and towns around the world that are making bold strides towards a more sustainable future.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Green Cities","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Green Cities","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:07:12.828679Z","entity":"collection","guid":"276d79a9-c17e-4f3e-ae17-7d62c2ae42a9","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:07:12.828679Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","_id":"624ec6d21f4b7b685d6ba7a6","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Fall in love with the world just by looking at it, with BBC Travel’s stunning images from around the globe.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"In Pictures","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"In Pictures","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:58:18.414684Z","entity":"collection","guid":"c6c2c33e-a808-4d56-8cbe-026b470bbbd9","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:53:02.664362Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b4f820b26cc","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Connect to the rare local foods and dishes that are woven into a place's heritage.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Culinary Roots","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Culinary Roots","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:22.051797Z","entity":"collection","guid":"51bd3fe3-fcbc-4513-9193-7b2ec1deff37","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:37.258813Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","_id":"624ec6e41f4b7b198c29b40d","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn about the latest destinations opening their borders and explore the exciting things travellers can do there – safely and sustainably.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"As the World Opens","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"As the World Opens","creationDateTime":"2022-03-29T16:11:02.829341Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2db5e3d8-8ac2-4731-a609-a20d42b39ec1","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:03:08.196053Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","image":["p0by5vj0"],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Four-unique-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Four-unique-world","_id":"624ec6bc1f4b7b353b6a8843","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Our Unique World","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Our Unique World","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:58:57.784954Z","entity":"collection","guid":"70ba8c20-174b-4894-9be2-a373463e19b4","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Four-unique-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:53:44.947009Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Four-unique-world","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world","_id":"624ec6e61f4b7b4fc9065f1f","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Explore different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle and learn through their collective wisdom.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Well World","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Well World","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T16:00:43.372102Z","entity":"collection","guid":"3eecf426-d5cc-43f5-a30d-e9ab56281462","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:55:51.80761Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","_id":"624ec6e41f4b7b198c29b40b","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Ancient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-07-16T02:28:12.584423Z","entity":"collection","guid":"19882d18-7b3e-4707-9881-6c30dc4841f0","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:03.496805Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","image":["p09pldr6"],"cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491}},"images":{"p0by85fw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by85fw","_id":"624ec55b1f4b7b684e42b526","copyright":"Esther David","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2448,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F85\u002Fp0by85fw.jpg","sourceWidth":2448,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Esther David)","synopsisMedium":"For Indian Jews, the Shabbat ceremony can include chapatis and grape sherbet (Credit: Esther David)","synopsisShort":"Photo of candle, chapati and glass of grape sherbet","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by85fw.jpg","title":"For Indian Jews, the Shabbat ceremony can include chapatis and grape sherbet","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by85fw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by85fw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"p0by84w0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by84w0","_id":"624ec5581f4b7b2a1f7688ed","copyright":"Mint Images\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1865,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F84\u002Fp0by84w0.jpg","sourceWidth":1492,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mint Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"India's five main Jewish communities are spread across disparate corners of the country (Credit: Mint Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Jewish Gate with a Menorah in Cochin, Kerala","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by84w0.jpg","title":"India's five main Jewish communities are spread across disparate corners of the country","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by84w0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by84w0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"p0by84vp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by84vp","_id":"624ec5451f4b7b4f42057503","copyright":"Esther David","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F84\u002Fp0by84vp.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Esther David)","synopsisMedium":"The Bene Israeli Jews have incorporated Maharashtrian staples into their diet, such as using poha in the malida ceremony (Credit: Esther David)","synopsisShort":"Malida with fruit and poha on plate","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by84vp.jpg","title":"The Bene Israeli Jews have incorporated Maharashtrian staples into their diet, such as using poha in the malida ceremony","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by84vp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by84vp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"p0by85qg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by85qg","_id":"624ec5451f4b7b352d4e6eeb","copyright":"g01xm\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F85\u002Fp0by85qg.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: g01xm\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: g01xm\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Shops in Jew town in Mattancherry, Kochin","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by85qg.jpg","title":"(Credit: g01xm\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by85qg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by85qg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"p0c1d3x9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c1d3x9","_id":"62599e191f4b7b7055285a74","copyright":"Atlantide Phototravel\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc1\u002Fd3\u002Fp0c1d3x9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Atlantide Phototravel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Anse Source d'Argent is often called the most photographed beach in the world due to its imposing boulders (Credit: Atlantide Phototravel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Anse Source d'Argent is often called the most photographed beach in the world","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c1d3x9.jpg","title":"Anse Source d'Argent is often called the most photographed beach in the world GettyImages-541398936.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c1d3x9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c1d3x9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"p0c1d43m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c1d43m","_id":"62599e1a1f4b7b7055285a76","copyright":"Anders Blomqvist\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc1\u002Fd4\u002Fp0c1d43m.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anders Blomqvist\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"With a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle as their main form of transport (Credit: Anders Blomqvist\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"With a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c1d43m.jpg","title":"With a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle GettyImages-599518613.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c1d43m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c1d43m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"p0c03pwq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c03pwq","_id":"624f9b181f4b7b4f820b2718","copyright":"Mark Eveleigh","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3659,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc0\u002F3p\u002Fp0c03pwq.jpg","sourceWidth":2927,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisMedium":"Packing a nutritional punch, raw moringa leaves are often added to smoothies and juices (Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisShort":"Moringa juice at Tugu Hotel Bali","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pwq.jpg","title":"Packing a nutritional punch, raw moringa leaves are often added to smoothies and juices","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03pwq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pwq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"p0c03pwd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c03pwd","_id":"624f9b161f4b7b68540324f4","copyright":"Mark Eveleigh","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc0\u002F3p\u002Fp0c03pwd.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisMedium":"Nafisha Dewi (pictured left), chef at Rasta Café Medewi, uses moringa leaves in many of her dishes (Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisShort":"Dewi and friend prepare moringa at Rasta Café Medewi","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pwd.jpg","title":"Nafisha Dewi (pictured left), chef at Rasta Café Medewi, uses moringa leaves in many of her dishes","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03pwd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pwd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"p0c03pw8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c03pw8","_id":"624f9b181f4b7b4f820b2716","copyright":"Westend61\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1191,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc0\u002F3p\u002Fp0c03pw8.jpg","sourceWidth":2119,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Since the leaves decompose quickly, moringa is often sold as a dehydrated powder (Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Wooden bowl of green moringa powder","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pw8.jpg","title":"Since the leaves decompose quickly, moringa is often sold as a dehydrated powder","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03pw8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pw8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"p0c03pw6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c03pw6","_id":"624f9b181f4b7b4f820b2717","copyright":"Mark Eveleigh","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2250,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc0\u002F3p\u002Fp0c03pw6.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisMedium":"Ni Putu Yuliastuty, chef at Fivelements Retreat, picks fresh moringa from the resort gardens (Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisShort":"Ni Putu Yuliastuty, a chef at Fivelements, picking moringa","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pw6.jpg","title":"Ni Putu Yuliastuty, chef at Fivelements Retreat, picks fresh moringa from the resort gardens","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03pw6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03pw6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"p0c03px1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c03px1","_id":"624f9b161f4b7b68540324f3","copyright":"Mark Eveleigh","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2592,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc0\u002F3p\u002Fp0c03px1.jpg","sourceWidth":4608,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","synopsisShort":"Moringa soup with corn at Tugu Hotel Bali","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03px1.jpg","title":"(Credit: Mark Eveleigh)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03px1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03px1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"p0bw8g6t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8g6t","_id":"624ec56c1f4b7b68586e5273","copyright":"Piter Lenk\u002FAlamy Stock Photo","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8g\u002Fp0bw8g6t.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Piter Lenk\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisMedium":"The Flinders have been called “one great outdoor museum” (Credit: Piter Lenk\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisShort":"A mountain with banded red stone, with a trail and trees in the foreground","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8g6t.jpg","title":"The Flinders have been called “one great outdoor museum” (Credit: Piter Lenk\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8g6t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8g6t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bw8gjc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8gjc","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b685743d0a5","copyright":"Tracey Croke","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8g\u002Fp0bw8gjc.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisMedium":"The Ediacaran Biota feature on every Mawson Trail signpost (Credit: Tracey Croke)","synopsisShort":"A signpost with illustrations against mountains in the background","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8gjc.jpg","title":"The Ediacaran Biota feature on every Mawson Trail signpost","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8gjc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8gjc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bw8gzw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8gzw","_id":"624ec5591f4b7b4f8300dc98","copyright":"Robert Wyatt\u002FAlamy Stock Photo","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8g\u002Fp0bw8gzw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Robert Wyatt\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisMedium":"The sedimentary layers of Brachina Gorge have their own tale to tell (Credit: Robert Wyatt\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisShort":"A trail passing through a gorge and large trees, with a truck","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8gzw.jpg","title":"The sedimentary layers of Brachina Gorge have their own tale to tell","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8gzw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8gzw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bw8h9t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8h9t","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b549a478273","copyright":"Zeytun Travel Images\u002FAlamy Stock Photo","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8h\u002Fp0bw8h9t.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zeytun Travel Images\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisMedium":"The discovery of the Ediacaran Biota, dating back 570 million years, changed our understanding of natural science (Credit: Zeytun Travel Images\u002FAlamy Stock Photo)","synopsisShort":"Two imprints on an orange-brown rock","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8h9t.jpg","title":"The discovery of the Ediacaran Biota, dating back 570 million years, changed our understanding of natural science","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8h9t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8h9t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bw8hh1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8hh1","_id":"624ec5591f4b7b4f872a4f13","copyright":"Jenny Nicholson","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8h\u002Fp0bw8hh1.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jenny Nicholson)","synopsisMedium":"Pedalling the Mawson Trail takes you through some of Earth’s most important geological sites (Credit: Jenny Nicholson)","synopsisShort":"Cyclists on a road are shown from a distance with mountains in the background","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8hh1.jpg","title":"Pedalling the Mawson Trail takes you through some of Earth’s most important geological sites","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8hh1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8hh1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bw8hqd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw8hqd","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b52c725e982","copyright":"Ralph McConaghy\u002F500px\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F8h\u002Fp0bw8hqd.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ralph McConaghy\u002F500px\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Flinders Range (Credit: Ralph McConaghy\u002F500px\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A dirt road leads to mountains in the background","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8hqd.jpg","title":"Flinders Range","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw8hqd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw8hqd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"p0bzj58h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bzj58h","_id":"624ec5931f4b7b68516ef987","copyright":"Chrissie McClatchie","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002Fj5\u002Fp0bzj58h.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisMedium":"Maddy Polomeni is one of the few registered guides leading small groups along walking trails of La Route du Mimosa (Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisShort":"Maddy Polomeni is one of the few registered guides along La Route du Mimosa","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj58h.jpg","title":"Maddy Polomeni is one of the few registered guides leading small groups along walking trails of La Route du Mimosa.JPG","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bzj58h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj58h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"p0bzj644":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bzj644","_id":"624ec5701f4b7b52c95b95f0","copyright":"Chrissie McClatchie","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002Fj6\u002Fp0bzj644.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"Mathieu Marchand, executive pastry chef at Riviera institution L'Oasis, created a mimosa-flavoured macaron (Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisMedium":"Mathieu Marchand, executive pastry chef at Riviera institution L'Oasis, created a mimosa-flavoured macaron (Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisShort":"The pastry chef at French Riviera institution L'Oasis created a mimosa-flavoured macaron","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj644.jpg","title":"Mathieu Marchand, executive pastry chef at Riviera institution L'Oasis, created a mimosa-flavoured macaron.JPG","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bzj644","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj644.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"p0bzj6wf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bzj6wf","_id":"624ec5811f4b7b4f865afb38","copyright":"Chrissie McClatchie","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002Fj6\u002Fp0bzj6wf.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"Cécile Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste: her grandmother first planted mimosa to sell to perfumeries in the 1930s (Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisMedium":"Cécile Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste: her grandmother first planted mimosa to sell to perfumeries in the 1930s (Credit: Chrissie McClatchie)","synopsisShort":"Cécile Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj6wf.jpg","title":"Cécile Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste: her grandmother first planted mimosa to sell to perfumeries in the 1930s.JPG","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bzj6wf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj6wf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"p0bzj3z1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bzj3z1","_id":"624ec5bf1f4b7b4f7f33cf4a","copyright":"Pierre Longnus\u002FGetty","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1404,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002Fj3\u002Fp0bzj3z1.jpg","sourceWidth":2134,"synopsisLong":"The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest (Credit: Pierre Longnus\u002FGetty)","synopsisMedium":"The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest (Credit: Pierre Longnus\u002FGetty)","synopsisShort":"The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj3z1.jpg","title":"The rocky ranges in southern France are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bzj3z1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bzj3z1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"p09xq72k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xq72k","_id":"624ec5301f4b7b4f865afa7d","copyright":"thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fq7\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","title":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xq72k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0btsf60":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btsf60","_id":"624ec5401f4b7b4f420574f8","copyright":"Phoebe Smith","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1836,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fsf\u002Fp0btsf60.jpg","sourceWidth":3264,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisMedium":"According to Markusie Qisiiq, the Inuit call the crater the \"Crystal Eye of Nunavik\" (Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisShort":"Markusie Qisiiq, Pingualuit Park director and guide","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf60.jpg","title":"According to Markusie Qisiiq, the Inuit call the crater the \"Crystal Eye of Nunavik\"","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btsf60","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf60.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0btsf59":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btsf59","_id":"624ec5411f4b7b549a47826a","copyright":"Phoebe Smith","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2079,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fsf\u002Fp0btsf59.jpg","sourceWidth":3696,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisMedium":"Formed 1.4 million years ago, the meteor crater has a diameter of nearly 3.5km (Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisShort":"People hiking around Pingualuit crater","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf59.jpg","title":"Formed 1.4 million years ago, the meteor crater has a diameter of nearly 3.5km","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btsf59","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf59.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0btsf4n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btsf4n","_id":"624ec5691f4b7b4f722e4d10","copyright":"Phoebe Smith","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2772,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fsf\u002Fp0btsf4n.jpg","sourceWidth":4928,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisMedium":"Manarsulik camp is the official base camp of anyone venturing into Pingualuit National Park (Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisShort":"Solar powered cabins at Manarsulik camp","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf4n.jpg","title":"Manarsulik camp is the official base camp of anyone venturing into Pingualuit National Park","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btsf4n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf4n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0btsf4g":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btsf4g","_id":"624ec5401f4b7b352f5882dd","copyright":"Phoebe Smith","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2669,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fsf\u002Fp0btsf4g.jpg","sourceWidth":4745,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisMedium":"At a depth of 246m, Pingualuit lake is only ice-free for around 6-8 weeks each year (Credit: Phoebe Smith)","synopsisShort":"Ice inside Pingualuit crater","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf4g.jpg","title":"At a depth of 246m, Pingualuit lake is only ice-free for around 6-8 weeks each year","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btsf4g","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf4g.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0btsf8j":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btsf8j","_id":"624ec5691f4b7b68516ef922","copyright":"Stocktrek Images\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fsf\u002Fp0btsf8j.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Stocktrek Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Stocktrek Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf8j.jpg","title":"(Credit: Stocktrek Images\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btsf8j","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btsf8j.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"p0bvwqj3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvwqj3","_id":"624ec5591f4b7b4f872a4f0a","copyright":"4FR\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fwq\u002Fp0bvwqj3.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: 4FR\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The river Neckar flows through the city centre, forming a little island, the Neckarinsel (Credit: 4FR\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Tübingen in Baden-Württemberg","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqj3.jpg","title":"The river Neckar flows through the city centre, forming a little island, the Neckarinsel","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvwqj3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqj3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bvwqhz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvwqhz","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b549a478274","copyright":"Srishti Chaudhary","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2592,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fwq\u002Fp0bvwqhz.jpg","sourceWidth":4608,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Srishti Chaudhary)","synopsisMedium":"Sedat Yalcin's popular Turkish bakery sells mostly vegetarian or vegan food (Credit: Srishti Chaudhary)","synopsisShort":"Sedat Yalcin at Ada Bakery","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqhz.jpg","title":"Sedat Yalcin's popular Turkish bakery sells mostly vegetarian or vegan food","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvwqhz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqhz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bvwqh8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvwqh8","_id":"624ec56c1f4b7b52c80022cf","copyright":"Westend61\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4690,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fwq\u002Fp0bvwqh8.jpg","sourceWidth":4690,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The city is known for being innovative and green, with modern housing designed to be energy efficient (Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Passive houses at quarter 'Alte Weberei', Tuebingen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqh8.jpg","title":"The city is known for being innovative and green, with modern housing designed to be energy efficient","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvwqh8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqh8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bvwqh4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvwqh4","_id":"624ec57d1f4b7b549670e1bd","copyright":"Freeartist\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4291,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fwq\u002Fp0bvwqh4.jpg","sourceWidth":7627,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Freeartist\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The Verpackungssteuer aims to decrease waste in Tübingen – but McDonald's is suing the city over the tax (Credit: Freeartist\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Tubingen, view of the bridge decorated with flowers","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqh4.jpg","title":"The Verpackungssteuer aims to decrease waste in Tübingen – but McDonald's is suing the city over the tax","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvwqh4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqh4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bvwqjp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvwqjp","_id":"624ec57f1f4b7b6847655c69","copyright":"Westend61\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fwq\u002Fp0bvwqjp.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Houses on the river Neckar and Hoelderlin tower, Tuebingen","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqjp.jpg","title":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvwqjp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvwqjp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bc2yw9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc2yw9","_id":"624ec5441f4b7b52ca3556c1","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F2y\u002Fp0bc2yw9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Kermits Pool, Karijini National Park","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc2yw9.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc2yw9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc2yw9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bc30hp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc30hp","_id":"624ec5441f4b7b4f623f3241","copyright":"Pete West","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1125,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F30\u002Fp0bc30hp.jpg","sourceWidth":2000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Pete West)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Pete West)","synopsisShort":"Fossilised Stromatolites of Marble Bar","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30hp.jpg","title":"(Credit: Pete West)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc30hp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30hp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bc330h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc330h","_id":"624ec5481f4b7b4f6444c636","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F33\u002Fp0bc330h.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Red landscape of the Pilbara with fossils in rock","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc330h.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc330h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc330h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"p0bc30pw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc30pw","_id":"624ec55a1f4b7b352f5882ec","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F30\u002Fp0bc30pw.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Layered rock formations at Hammersley Gorge, Karijini National Park","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30pw.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc30pw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30pw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc30wp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc30wp","_id":"624ec5321f4b7b70455f8618","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F30\u002Fp0bc30wp.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Spa Pool, Hammersley Gorge","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30wp.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc30wp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc30wp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc310m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc310m","_id":"624ec5441f4b7b4f4d2d8176","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":874,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F31\u002Fp0bc310m.jpg","sourceWidth":1554,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Karijini Eco Retreat under stars","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc310m.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc310m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc310m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc310w":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc310w","_id":"624ec55d1f4b7b52ca355711","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F31\u002Fp0bc310w.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"","synopsisShort":"Massive Fig Tree, Dale Gorge, near Fern Pool","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc310w.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc310w","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc310w.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc312c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc312c","_id":"624ec5581f4b7b51975c8487","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F31\u002Fp0bc312c.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Pilbara","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc312c.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc312c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc312c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc314r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc314r","_id":"624ec55b1f4b7b685370949a","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F31\u002Fp0bc314r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Mt Bruce, Karijini","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc314r.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc314r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc314r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc32wk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc32wk","_id":"624ec56f1f4b7b6854032238","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F32\u002Fp0bc32wk.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Sun setting on Karrijini","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc32wk.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc32wk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc32wk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc31jh":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc31jh","_id":"624ec5901f4b7b4f6444c6be","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1406,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F31\u002Fp0bc31jh.jpg","sourceWidth":2500,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker on red rocks in Pilbara","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc31jh.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc31jh","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc31jh.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc3240":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc3240","_id":"624ec5441f4b7b52ca3556c7","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F32\u002Fp0bc3240.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Deep gorge in the Pilbara with green shrubs on surface","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc3240.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc3240","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc3240.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bc2yw5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bc2yw5","_id":"624ec5441f4b7b549705de26","copyright":"Dan Avila","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbc\u002F2y\u002Fp0bc2yw5.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","synopsisShort":"Red earth of the Pilbara","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc2yw5.jpg","title":"(Credit: Dan Avila)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bc2yw5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bc2yw5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwk86":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwk86","_id":"624ec53d1f4b7b52c725e96c","copyright":"Agefotostock\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwk\u002Fp0bqwk86.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Horchatería Daniel is one of Valencia's most famous horchata spots (Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Horchateria Daniel in Valencia's Colón Market","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk86.jpg","title":"Horchatería Daniel is one of Valencia's most famous horchata spots","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwk86","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk86.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwk15":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwk15","_id":"624ec55d1f4b7b68586e525d","copyright":"Alquería El Machistre","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1329,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwk\u002Fp0bqwk15.jpg","sourceWidth":2362,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alquería El Machistre)","synopsisMedium":"Surrounded by tiger nut crops, the Alquería El Machistre is home to the Museum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts (Credit: Alquería El Machistre)","synopsisShort":"Tiger nut crops in front of Alquería El Machistre in L'Horta","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk15.jpg","title":"Surrounded by tiger nut crops, the Alquería El Machistre is home to the Museum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwk15","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk15.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwjvt":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwjvt","_id":"624ec53f1f4b7b7042614688","copyright":"Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2172,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwj\u002Fp0bqwjvt.jpg","sourceWidth":3861,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Horchata and fartons are the perfect pairing, with the long spongy buns designed for dunking (Credit: Gonzalo Azumendi\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Fartons laid out at Horchateria Santa Catalina in Valencia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwjvt.jpg","title":"In Valencia, horchata and fartons are the perfect pairing, with the long spongy buns designed for dunking","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwjvt","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwjvt.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwjsc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwjsc","_id":"624ec53f1f4b7b518e52ee6f","copyright":"Alquería El Machistre","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1458,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwj\u002Fp0bqwjsc.jpg","sourceWidth":2592,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alquería El Machistre)","synopsisMedium":"Tiger nut cultivation was extremely labour intensive before the use of machinery (Credit: Alquería El Machistre)","synopsisShort":"B&W photo of men harvesting tiger nuts in L'Horta","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwjsc.jpg","title":"Tiger nut cultivation was extremely labour intensive before the use of machinery","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwjsc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwjsc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwk9r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwk9r","_id":"624ec5501f4b7b352d4e6f0b","copyright":"stefanopolitimarkovina\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwk\u002Fp0bqwk9r.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: stefanopolitimarkovina\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: stefanopolitimarkovina\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Glass of horchata and farton in a Valencia cafe","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk9r.jpg","title":"(Credit: stefanopolitimarkovina\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwk9r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwk9r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0bqwmh7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bqwmh7","_id":"624ec5681f4b7b4f4d2d818d","copyright":"Agefotostock\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2880,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbq\u002Fwm\u002Fp0bqwmh7.jpg","sourceWidth":5120,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Horchatería Santa Catalina, Valencia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwmh7.jpg","title":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bqwmh7","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bqwmh7.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"p0by8122":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by8122","_id":"624ec58e1f4b7b549b2f0070","copyright":"Halbergman\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by8122.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Halbergman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The US showed adaptability in many areas, including food delivery services (Credit: Halbergman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A restaurant owner hands an order to a customer","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8122.jpg","title":"The US showed adaptability in many areas, including food delivery services","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by8122","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8122.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0by811k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by811k","_id":"624ec5701f4b7b4f731d3e19","copyright":"Kieran Stone\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by811k.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kieran Stone\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Melbourne endured six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic (Credit: Kieran Stone\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Brighton bathing boxes and Melbourne skyline","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by811k.jpg","title":"Melbourne endured six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by811k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by811k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0by810q":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by810q","_id":"624ec5831f4b7b54902df3c7","copyright":"GoranQ\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1192,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by810q.jpg","sourceWidth":2120,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: GoranQ\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Travel restrictions during the pandemic instigated a domestic tourism boom in South Korea (Credit: GoranQ\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Gyeongbokgung Palace in the sunset","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by810q.jpg","title":"Travel restrictions during the pandemic instigated a domestic tourism boom in South Korea","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by810q","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by810q.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0by810b":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by810b","_id":"624ec56e1f4b7b5494547534","copyright":"Frans Sellies\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1212,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by810b.jpg","sourceWidth":2154,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Frans Sellies\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Belgium residents are looking forward to the return of the bi-annual Brussels Flower Carpet (Credit: Frans Sellies\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Giant flower carpet in Grand Place in Brussels","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by810b.jpg","title":"Belgium residents are looking forward to the return of the bi-annual Brussels Flower Carpet","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by810b","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by810b.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0by8100":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by8100","_id":"624ec5831f4b7b685c522451","copyright":"Matt Mawson\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by8100.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Mawson\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"São Paulo is one of the world's \"vaccine capitals\", with a 100% vaccination rate (Credit: Matt Mawson\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sun setting view south west over São Paulo Brazil from Republica","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8100.jpg","title":"São Paulo is one of the world's \"vaccine capitals\", with a 100% vaccination rate","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by8100","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8100.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0by8131":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by8131","_id":"624ec55a1f4b7b4f872a4f1b","copyright":"Jorg Greuel\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1176,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F81\u002Fp0by8131.jpg","sourceWidth":2091,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jorg Greuel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Jorg Greuel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Guildhalls at Grand Place in Brussels","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8131.jpg","title":"(Credit: Jorg Greuel\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by8131","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by8131.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"p0bts7bj":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7bj","_id":"624ec5401f4b7b4f6444c623","copyright":"Jacki Bruniquel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1030,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7bj.jpg","sourceWidth":1831,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacki Bruniquel)","synopsisMedium":"In South Africa, people of colour have not traditionally had equal access to the ocean (Credit: Jacki Bruniquel)","synopsisShort":"Zandile Ndhlovu freediving underwater","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7bj.jpg","title":"In South Africa, people of colour have not traditionally had equal access to the ocean","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7bj","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7bj.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bts7d6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7d6","_id":"624ec5681f4b7b68586e526e","copyright":"Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3487,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7d6.jpg","sourceWidth":2789,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisMedium":"According to Daniela Daines, people are turning to freediving to disconnect from urban life (Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisShort":"Coral and kelp around Cape Town","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7d6.jpg","title":"According to Daniela Daines, people are turning to freediving to disconnect from urban life","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7d6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7d6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bts7d2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7d2","_id":"624ec5511f4b7b01313214ff","copyright":"Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4347,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7d2.jpg","sourceWidth":7728,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisMedium":"Freediving has boomed in popularity in Cape Town over the past decade (Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisShort":"Freediver shining a torch on coral","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7d2.jpg","title":"Freediving has boomed in popularity in Cape Town over the past decade","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7d2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7d2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bts7c9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7c9","_id":"624ec57c1f4b7b685d6ba600","copyright":"Jacki Bruniquel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1152,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7c9.jpg","sourceWidth":2048,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacki Bruniquel)","synopsisMedium":"Zandile Ndhlovu founded The Black Mermaid Foundation to help black people overcome their fear of the underwater world (Credit: Jacki Bruniquel)","synopsisShort":"Zandile Ndhlovu holding fins and goggles","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7c9.jpg","title":"Zandile Ndhlovu founded The Black Mermaid Foundation to help black people overcome their fear of the underwater world","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7c9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7c9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bts7dg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7dg","_id":"624ec5401f4b7b52ca3556be","copyright":"Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2250,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7dg.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisMedium":"The Great African Seaforest fringes Cape Town's shores and extends north for more than 1,000km into Namibia (Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisShort":"Freediver in underwater kelp forests South Africa","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7dg.jpg","title":"The Great African Seaforest fringes Cape Town's shores and extends north for more than 1,000km into Namibia","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7dg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7dg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bts7f3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bts7f3","_id":"624ec57e1f4b7b68516ef94a","copyright":"Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2250,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fs7\u002Fp0bts7f3.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","synopsisShort":"Underwater kelp forests South Africa","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7f3.jpg","title":"(Credit: Daniela Daines\u002FCape Town Freediving)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bts7f3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bts7f3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"p0bxwb3n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bxwb3n","_id":"624ec5801f4b7b68537094db","copyright":"Jordan Lye\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1195,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbx\u002Fwb\u002Fp0bxwb3n.jpg","sourceWidth":2124,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jordan Lye\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Siglufjörður was once one of the largest towns in Iceland due to the herring adventure (Credit: Jordan Lye\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Houses of Siglufjörður reflected in water and surrounded by mountains","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb3n.jpg","title":"Siglufjörður was once one of the largest towns in Iceland due to the herring adventure","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bxwb3n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb3n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"p0bxwb36":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bxwb36","_id":"624ec5691f4b7b4f712528f1","copyright":"Kristfinnur Guðjónsson\u002FThe Herring Era Museum Photo Archive","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3840,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbx\u002Fwb\u002Fp0bxwb36.jpg","sourceWidth":3840,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Kristfinnur Guðjónsson\u002FThe Herring Era Museum Photo Archive)","synopsisMedium":"The herring girls established Iceland's first women's union and paved the way for gender equality (Credit: Kristfinnur Guðjónsson\u002FThe Herring Era Museum Photo Archive)","synopsisShort":"Black and white photo of herring girls","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb36.jpg","title":"The herring girls established Iceland's first women's union and paved the way for gender equality","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bxwb36","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb36.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"p0bxwb30":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bxwb30","_id":"624ec6481f4b7b4f722e4e50","copyright":"The Herring Era Museum","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3092,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbx\u002Fwb\u002Fp0bxwb30.jpg","sourceWidth":5497,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisMedium":"The girls, who came from all over Iceland, were housed in dormitories in Róaldsbrakki (Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisShort":"Dormitory beds of herring girls","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb30.jpg","title":"The girls, who came from all over Iceland, were housed in dormitories in Róaldsbrakki","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bxwb30","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb30.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"p0bxwb1q":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bxwb1q","_id":"624ec56c1f4b7b6854032236","copyright":"The Herring Era Museum","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1444,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbx\u002Fwb\u002Fp0bxwb1q.jpg","sourceWidth":2567,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisMedium":"Many former herring girls still take part in the live re-enactments each summer (Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisShort":"Herring Girl re-enactment outside Róaldsbrakki","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb1q.jpg","title":"Many former herring girls still take part in the live re-enactments each summer","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bxwb1q","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb1q.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"p0bxwb49":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bxwb49","_id":"624ec5451f4b7b4f7663032a","copyright":"The Herring Era Museum","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1944,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbx\u002Fwb\u002Fp0bxwb49.jpg","sourceWidth":3456,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","synopsisShort":"Live reenactment of herring girls on Siglufjörður pier","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb49.jpg","title":"(Credit: The Herring Era Museum)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bxwb49","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bxwb49.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"p0bwpkbf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpkbf","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b4f6524949f","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpkbf.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"Producers are again seeing the potential of the Menton lemon (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"Producers are again seeing the potential of the Menton lemon","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkbf.jpg","title":"Producers are again seeing the potential of the Menton lemon","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpkbf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkbf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwpkc0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpkc0","_id":"624ec5591f4b7b68494b9d83","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpkc0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"Laurent Gannac (pictured) and his son own 750 Menton lemon trees on 2.5 hectares of land (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"Laurent Gannac (pictured) and his son own 750 Menton lemon trees on 2.5 hectares of land","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkc0.jpg","title":"Laurent Gannac (pictured) and his son own 750 Menton lemon trees on 2.5 hectares of land","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpkc0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkc0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwpk9z":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpk9z","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b685b6dbaff","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpk9z.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"The French town of Menton swells to nearly double its size during the Fête du Citron (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"The French town of Menton swells to nearly double its size during the Fête du Citron","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk9z.jpg","title":"The French town of Menton swells to nearly double its size during the Fête du Citron","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpk9z","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk9z.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwpk9j":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpk9j","_id":"624ec57e1f4b7b52ca35574a","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpk9j.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk9j.jpg","title":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpk9j","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk9j.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwpk8t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpk8t","_id":"624ec57e1f4b7b4f8300dd0a","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpk8t.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"The Fête du Citron celebrates the history and culture of citrus growing in the region (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"The Fête du Citron celebrates the history and culture of citrus growing in the region","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk8t.jpg","title":"The Fête du Citron celebrates the history and culture of citrus growing in the region","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpk8t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpk8t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwpkcq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwpkcq","_id":"624ec56b1f4b7b51975c84a9","copyright":"Anna Muckerman","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fpk\u002Fp0bwpkcq.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisMedium":"The Menton lemon has a mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin (Credit: Anna Muckerman)","synopsisShort":"The Menton lemon has a mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkcq.jpg","title":"The Menton lemon has a mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwpkcq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwpkcq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bwskvl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskvl","_id":"624ec5571f4b7b4f6444c66a","copyright":"Zinara Rathnayake","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2909,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskvl.jpg","sourceWidth":5170,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisMedium":"The late physician Richard Lionel Spittel was one of the foremost experts on the Vedda community (Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisShort":"Late Physician Richard Lionel Spittel with the Veddas of Rathugala","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskvl.jpg","title":"The late physician Richard Lionel Spittel was one of the foremost experts on the Vedda community","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskvl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskvl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bwskrp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskrp","_id":"624ec5571f4b7b685b6dbb0c","copyright":"Zinara Rathnayake","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2916,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskrp.jpg","sourceWidth":5184,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisMedium":"Gunabandilaaththo guides visitors on hiking tours and demonstrates Vedda hunting skills (Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisShort":"Gunabandilaaththo shows hunting skills to visitors at Wild Glamping Gal Oya.","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskrp.jpg","title":"Gunabandilaaththo guides visitors on hiking tours and demonstrates Vedda hunting skills","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskrp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskrp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bwskqz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskqz","_id":"624ec57c1f4b7b4f8300dd00","copyright":"Oskanov\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1856,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskqz.jpg","sourceWidth":3300,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Oskanov\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The Vedda lived all around the island, but are now only found in central Sri Lanka and the coastal lowlands (Credit: Oskanov\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Typical house of vedda people living in Sri Lanka","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskqz.jpg","title":"The Vedda lived all around the island, but are now only found in central Sri Lanka and the coastal lowlands","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskqz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskqz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bwskqd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskqd","_id":"624ec5971f4b7b4f4b254feb","copyright":"Zinara Rathnayake","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2916,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskqd.jpg","sourceWidth":5184,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisMedium":"Kiribandilaaththo teaches Vedda children about their language and traditions (Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisShort":"Kiribandilaaththo at the Veddas Heritage Centre","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskqd.jpg","title":"Kiribandilaaththo teaches Vedda children about their language and traditions","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskqd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskqd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bwskq6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskq6","_id":"624ec56f1f4b7b4f7f33ceca","copyright":"Zinara Rathnayake","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2916,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskq6.jpg","sourceWidth":5184,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisMedium":"A carved granite slab at the Veddas Heritage Centre symbolises the Sun, Moon and their hunting grounds (Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisShort":"A carved slab of granite at the Veddas Heritage Centre in Rathugala","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskq6.jpg","title":"A carved granite slab at the Veddas Heritage Centre symbolises the Sun, Moon and their hunting grounds","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskq6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskq6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bwskw5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bwskw5","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b52c725e983","copyright":"Zinara Rathnayake","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2756,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002Fsk\u002Fp0bwskw5.jpg","sourceWidth":4899,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","synopsisShort":"Gunabandilaaththo and Kiribandilaaththo in the Rathugala cave","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskw5.jpg","title":"(Credit: Zinara Rathnayake)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bwskw5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bwskw5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"p0bw576m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw576m","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b54945474fb","copyright":"Tom Schiller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F57\u002Fp0bw576m.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisMedium":"Kinzanji miso remains a popular local delicacy, enjoyed as a snack, side dish or even light meal (Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisShort":"Tub of Kinzanji miso","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw576m.jpg","title":"Kinzanji miso remains a popular local delicacy, enjoyed as a snack, side dish or even light meal","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw576m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw576m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"p0bw574y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw574y","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b4f6444c627","copyright":"Tom Schiller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2267,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F57\u002Fp0bw574y.jpg","sourceWidth":4030,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisMedium":"Tsunenori Kano is the seventh-generation brewer at Kadocho (Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisShort":"Kadocho exterior with Tsunenori Kano, 7th generation brewer","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw574y.jpg","title":"Tsunenori Kano is the seventh-generation brewer at Kadocho","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw574y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw574y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"p0bw573z":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw573z","_id":"624ec56f1f4b7b54902df3a5","copyright":"Ryouchin\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4247,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F57\u002Fp0bw573z.jpg","sourceWidth":3397,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ryouchin\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Very little soy sauce is still made in the traditional way, using wooden barrels and long paddles (Credit: Ryouchin\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Man stirring huge vats of soy sauce","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw573z.jpg","title":"Very little soy sauce is still made in the traditional way, using wooden barrels and long paddles","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw573z","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw573z.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"p0bw572r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw572r","_id":"624ec5431f4b7b685743d0a4","copyright":"Tom Schiller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F57\u002Fp0bw572r.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisMedium":"The liquid that pooled in tubs of fermenting Kinzanji miso became the basis for soy sauce as we know it today (Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisShort":"Tamari pooling in tubs of fermenting Kinzanaji miso","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw572r.jpg","title":"The liquid that pooled in tubs of fermenting Kinzanji miso became the basis for soy sauce as we know it today","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw572r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw572r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"p0bw576p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bw576p","_id":"624ec57f1f4b7b685c522443","copyright":"Tom Schiller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbw\u002F57\u002Fp0bw576p.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","synopsisShort":"Yuasa street scene","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw576p.jpg","title":"(Credit: Tom Schiller)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bw576p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bw576p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"p0btw3r2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btw3r2","_id":"624ec5401f4b7b352f5882de","copyright":"Vinita Salisbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fw3\u002Fp0btw3r2.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Vinita Salisbury)","synopsisMedium":"Emma Lagla uses herbs including stinging nettle to perform a spiritual cleansing on the writer (Credit: Vinita Salisbury)","synopsisShort":"A woman rubs a bunch of green leaves over another woman, who wears a face mask","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw3r2.jpg","title":"Emma Lagla uses herbs including stinging nettle to cleanse the writer’s spirit","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btw3r2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw3r2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"p0btw42n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btw42n","_id":"624ec5541f4b7b702f440228","copyright":"Martha Barreno \u002FVW Pics\u002FUniversal Images Group via Getty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fw4\u002Fp0btw42n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Martha Barreno \u002FVW Pics\u002FUniversal Images Group via Getty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Curanderos sell medicinal herbs from stalls and shops across Quito (Credit: Martha Barreno \u002FVW Pics\u002FUniversal Images Group via Getty Images)","synopsisShort":"A large pile of green leaves and plants at a shopfront, including aloe vera and flowers","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw42n.jpg","title":"Curanderos sell medicinal herbs from stalls and shops across Quito","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btw42n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw42n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"p0btw4bq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btw4bq","_id":"624ec5531f4b7b4f731d3de0","copyright":"Heide Brandes","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":0,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fw4\u002Fp0btw4bq.jpg","sourceWidth":0,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Heide Brandes)","synopsisMedium":"Lagla prepares rose petals for one of her treatments (Credit: Heide Brandes)","synopsisShort":"A woman in a face mask arranges pink and white petals in a blue bowl","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw4bq.jpg","title":"Lagla prepares rose petals for one of her treatments","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btw4bq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw4bq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"p0btw4lg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btw4lg","_id":"624ec56a1f4b7b5494547523","copyright":"Jonatan Rosas\u002FAnadolu Agency\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fw4\u002Fp0btw4lg.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jonatan Rosas\u002FAnadolu Agency\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"A woman is purified with stinging nettle before a ceremony in Puyo, Ecuador (Credit: Jonatan Rosas\u002FAnadolu Agency\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A woman in beads and with face paint bows her head before a woman holding large leaves","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw4lg.jpg","title":"A woman is purified with stinging nettle before a ceremony in Puyo, Ecuador","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btw4lg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btw4lg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"p0btxl3l":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0btxl3l","_id":"624ec57a1f4b7b52c80022d9","copyright":"Vince Harris\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbt\u002Fxl\u002Fp0btxl3l.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Vince Harris\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings (Credit: Vince Harris\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btxl3l.jpg","title":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0btxl3l","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0btxl3l.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"p0bv9kqs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bv9kqs","_id":"624ec5541f4b7b4f7663033b","copyright":"Paola Giannoni\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002F9k\u002Fp0bv9kqs.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Paola Giannoni\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The Seychelles vows to protect 30% of its ocean territory (Credit: Paola Giannoni\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"The Seychelles vows to protect 30% of its ocean territory","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bv9kqs.jpg","title":"The Seychelles vows to protect 30% of its ocean territory","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bv9kqs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bv9kqs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0bswj3s":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bswj3s","_id":"624ec5691f4b7b2a22350453","copyright":"Mark Johanson","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3376,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002Fwj\u002Fp0bswj3s.jpg","sourceWidth":6000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Johanson)","synopsisMedium":"Large digesters from the Norwegian Aktieselskabet Hektor whaling station still lie on the steaming beach at Whalers Bay (Credit: Mark Johanson)","synopsisShort":"Norwegian Aktieselskabet Hektor whaling station, Deception Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswj3s.jpg","title":"Large digesters from the Norwegian Aktieselskabet Hektor whaling station still lie on the steaming beach at Whalers Bay","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bswj3s","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswj3s.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0bswhzq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bswhzq","_id":"624ec5671f4b7b4f652494cf","copyright":"Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1228,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002Fwh\u002Fp0bswhzq.jpg","sourceWidth":2183,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Deception Island is now teeming with wildlife, including tens of thousands of chinstrap penguins (Credit: Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Chinstrap penguin colony on Deception Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhzq.jpg","title":"Deception Island is now teeming with wildlife, including tens of thousands of chinstrap penguins","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bswhzq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhzq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0bswhz4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bswhz4","_id":"624ec5511f4b7b549a4782b1","copyright":"Mark Johanson","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002Fwh\u002Fp0bswhz4.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mark Johanson)","synopsisMedium":"Biscoe House, the accommodation block for a British research station, was abandoned in 1969 after a volcanic eruption (Credit: Mark Johanson)","synopsisShort":"Ruins of Biscoe House, Deception Island, Antarctica","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhz4.jpg","title":"Biscoe House was abandoned in 1969 after a volcanic eruption","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bswhz4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhz4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0bswhyt":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bswhyt","_id":"624ec5671f4b7b516607f966","copyright":"Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002Fwh\u002Fp0bswhyt.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Deception Island is a sunken volcano, whose caldera forms one of the best anchorages in the Antarctic (Credit: Ruben Earth\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Rocky cliffs at Deception Island, Antarctica","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhyt.jpg","title":"Deception Island is a sunken volcano, whose caldera forms one of the best anchorages in the Antarctic","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bswhyt","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswhyt.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0bswj3v":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bswj3v","_id":"624ec5511f4b7b549a4782ac","copyright":"Antony Baxter\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2250,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002Fwj\u002Fp0bswj3v.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Antony Baxter\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Antony Baxter\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Port Foster at Deception Island, Antarctica","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswj3v.jpg","title":"(Credit: Antony Baxter\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bswj3v","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bswj3v.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"p0by5vj0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by5vj0","_id":"624ec5451f4b7b684f78606d","copyright":"Onfokus\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F5v\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","title":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by5vj0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"p0bpz96n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bpz96n","_id":"624ec5501f4b7b4f8300dc6f","copyright":"R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbp\u002Fz9\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening (Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","title":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bpz96n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"624ec51d1f4b7b6b6e25905d","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3078,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9p\u002Fld\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","sourceWidth":5472,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b52c95b9720","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour has gone by: time to take the gefilte fish and carrots out of the boiling water. In another pot, I've got potatoes and pickles simmering in stock and brine; I stir in a hefty dollop of sour cream to cut the acidity and top the soup  with a sprinkling of fresh chopped dill. Tomorrow, I'll be cooking a leek frittata for breakfast and schnitzel breaded with matzo meal for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'm swimming in shtetl nostalgia – Ashkenazi Jews have been making versions of these recipes for decades. Gefilte fish (an appetiser made from poached fish), for example, has been a favourite since they first settled on the banks of the German Rhine in the 11th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a key difference. I'm making vegetarian versions of these dishes. And, in doing so, I know I'm closer to the traditions of my ancestors than I would be with the stacked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003Epastrami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003E sandwiches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that have become the standard-bearer of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my Ashkenazi ancestors, the towers of meat you can find at the Jewish deli were nonexistent. Instead, their kitchens would be full of fresh, regional and seasonal vegetables, an assortment of pickles and, if they were lucky, some dairy. Meat and fish were expensive rarities until the industrialisation of meat production in the early 20th Century. That's why the gefilte fish I'm making now is a vegetarian imitation adapted from a century-old recipe using a purée of salsify (oyster plant), cashews and onion mixed with eggs and matzo meal, shaped into disc-like quenelles for poaching, then topped with one sliced carrot and sinus-clearing horseradish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of veal, the schnitzel is a cut of celeriac root covered in flour, egg wash and matzo meal that browns after a few minutes on a hot skillet – as instructed by an 84-year-old recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt may come as a surprise to fans of the Jewish deli, but the values of vegetarianism have long been espoused and cherished by Ashkenazi Jewish cooks. And these values are returning from the sidelines. From Los Angeles, California and Cleveland, Ohio, to New York's Lower East Side and Brooklyn – where most Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants first settled and many sold pickles from pushcarts – a new generation of Jewish sandwich slingers and cookbook authors are promoting \"plant-forward\" eating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn doing so, they're embodying many of the beliefs spelled out by the likes of chef Fania Lewando in her 1938 cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyivo.org\u002FThe-Vilna-Vegetarian-Cookbook\"\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and revolutionising modern Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine by taking it back to its roots (pun intended).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEve Jochnowitz is a culinary ethnographer based in New York City's Greenwich Village where she grew up. She published a translation of Lewando's Yiddish-language cookbook in 2015, including around 400 vegetarian recipes.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are sections expected of most any cookbook, like salads – with earthy dishes based on radishes and red cabbage – and soups ranging from a puréed carrot soup to bran borscht. Then come the unmistakably Jewish sections, like latkes (10 kinds) and Passover foods. There is even a section labelled \"Kugels with Cholents\", with 11 different ways to make the traditional Jewish casserole to go with the Sabbath stew left to simmer overnight – that way, it's ready for Shabbat lunch without lifting a finger.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the foreword to The Vilna Vegetarian, celebrated cookbook author Joan Nathan writes that the Yiddish and German kosher cookbooks of the 1930s offered vegetarian recipes in response to anti-Semitic laws outlawing the traditional Jewish ritual of slaughtering animals. But vegetarianism in Jewish cuisine goes back as far as the Talmud, the compilation of rabbinic debate on Jewish law, philosophy and biblical interpretation that was produced between the 3rd and 8th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENora Rubel is co-founder of the vegan Jewish deli \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grassfedrochester.com\u002F\"\u003EGrass Fed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Rochester, New York, and a Jewish studies professor at the University of Rochester where she researches American Jewish culture, culinary history and religion. She noted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sefaria.org\u002FPesachim.114b.1?lang=bi\"\u003Ethe Talmud allows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the use of a beet on a Passover Seder plate instead of a shank bone. Knowledge like this, Rubel said, can embolden Jewish vegetarians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This shows us that [our ancestors] were already talking about this a long time ago,\" Rubel said. \"This is part of our culinary lineage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECenturies later, in 1938, Lewando continued that lineage in what is today Vilnius, Lithuania, where she owned a kosher dairy restaurant, ran a kosher cooking school and supervised a vegetarian kosher kitchen on an ocean liner that travelled between Gydnia, Poland, and New York City. In the introduction to her cookbook, she wrote of the importance of being resourceful and never throwing anything away because \"everything can be made into food\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also connected vegetarianism to Jewish values.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the humanitarian principle of '\u003Cem\u003Etsar baaley khayim'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (not killing living creatures), it would be desirable to replace meat with a purely vegetarian cuisine,\" Lewando wrote. (It's worth noting that Lewando's translation is contested, with some saying it means not causing undue pain to animals, given that meat also plays a role in historic Jewish culture.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELand of abundance\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat happened between the 1930s and today? After all, salads full of garden vegetables and resourceful soups are hardly what come to mind when people think of Ashkenazi Jewish food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Meat was super cheap in America,\" said Jeffrey Yoskowitz, Jewish food expert and the co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orderpapaya.com\u002F\"\u003EPapaya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a plant-based food delivery platform featuring meals from top chefs at vegan and non-vegan restaurants. \"The idea of eating this giant mega sandwich of beef is just the ultimate symbol of abundance and the affluence of America.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, that abundance made not eating meat a mockable offence, said Jochnowitz. \"There is a Yiddish saying: '\u003Cem\u003EDos beste milkhiks iz a shtikl fleysh'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" she said. \"The best dairy is a piece of meat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn reality, eating meat on rare occasions was the norm throughout Ashkenazi Jewish history up until their arrival to the United States and the industrialisation of meat that drove down prices. Before then, meat was not something most Jews in Eastern Europe could afford in the 18th, 19th and early 20th Centuries. Coupled with meat shortages and lack of access to kosher meat, most Jews were what Jochnowitz calls \"de facto vegetarians\", though they likely would not have thought of themselves as such.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People look at Jewish delis as the place where you get traditional home-cooked Jewish foods, but immigrant Ashkenazi Jewish mothers didn't want children going to the deli,\" said Yoskowitz. \"My grandmother didn't want my father going to the deli because these weren't the foods at home.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deli meats and knishes (stuffed dough balls) of the Jewish-American deli were junk food in the eyes of Yoskowitz's Poland-born grandmother. It's no surprise his grandmother would take such a strict view considering she was herself a vegetarian. She'd take her son, Yoskowitz's father, to the Catskills in Upstate New York for a summer vacation stays at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funtappedcities.com\u002F2017\u002F10\u002F05\u002F10-abandoned-resorts-from-the-borscht-belt-in-catskills-new-york\u002F4\u002F\"\u003EThe Vegetarian Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a resort founded in the early 20th Century. There was vegetarian chopped liver, blueberries with sour cream and radishes and other vegetables from the hotel garden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a story Yoskowitz touches on in his 2016 award-winning cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gefilteria.com\u002Fgefilte-manifesto\"\u003EThe Gefilte Manifesto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where he and his co-author Liz Alpern revisit traditional, Old World Jewish foods with new recipes. The emphasis of the book is on embracing the resourceful techniques of our Ashkenazi Jewish ancestors, such as pickling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, it was pickling that first got Yoskowitz hooked on rediscovering Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine 15 years ago, at the organic Jewish farm \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fadamahfarmcsafallsvillage.weebly.com\u002Fthe-farm.html\"\u003EAdamah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Connecticut. It made him question why neither pickling nor the connection between harvests and sustainability weren't more intrinsically connected to Ashkenazi Jewish culinary history. \"I felt like that story wasn't being told through the delis,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECulinary nostalgia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe urge to rediscover traditional recipes might be even stronger among Ashkenazi Jews than other cultures because of the Holocaust, said Yoskowitz. The loss of their culinary homeland and the murder of so many families, he said, created a tenuous connection to the places where Ashkenazi families lived for centuries and – in some ways – froze Ashkenazi cuisine in time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe contrasted the Jewish experience to that of Italians. While Italians also immigrated to the Lower East Side, many often would travel back and forth to their homeland, importing a number of ingredients to the US with them. Lower East Side Jews, on the other hand, only imported dried mushrooms, thanks partly to the fact that they couldn't recreate the local terroir or forest floor of their homeland in New York City. Then the Holocaust decimated the unmarked boundaries of Yiddishland that stretched from France across Central Europe to the edges of Eastern Europe; for many, the pain severed any connection they had had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A whole new culture had to be forged,\" said Yoskowitz. \"But because of that, the nostalgia for the past grows stronger and stronger.\"    \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo it's fitting that a number of new vegan Jewish delis pay homage to the owners' grandparents – like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003EBen & Esther\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portland, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003ESam & Gertie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Chicago and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003EMort & Betty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian continues to influence her cooking, said Mort & Betty’s owner Megan Tucker. She often refers to the book for recipes or to see how a specific ingredient was used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love the procedure in the pickled cucumbers recipe,\" Tucker said. \"Scalding a barrel, covering the bottom with horseradish leaves and finishing by pounding a stopper into the top and placing it in the sun for two days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Cleveland, Ohio, meanwhile, a refurbished mid-19th Century firehouse has become a haven of nostalgic aromas and spices. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flarderdb.com\u002F\"\u003ELarder Delicatessen and Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chef Jeremy Umansky also credits The Vilna Vegetarian for showing him how his ancestors truly would have eaten, using plants first and meat only on special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUmansky, too, is fascinated by pickling. He uses koji, a Japanese mould that speeds up the curing process and gives vegetables a smoky, savoury flavour with a texture that resembles meat. (In 2020, he even co-authored the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chelseagreen.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fkoji-alchemy\u002F\"\u003EKoji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.) Koji is an essential ingredient to his vegan pastrami, which features mushrooms that are cured with salt before being spiced and smoked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENobody can say for certain where Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine is headed next. But there's no doubt it'll be far more complex and multifaceted than most deli fanatics could imagine. Fruits and vegetables from the garden will be front and centre – whether salted, seasoned, roasted or pickled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor that, we can thank this new generation of cooks who are circling back and taking their cues from the seeds planted by our ancestors. Whatever the result, it will be delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-22T10:43:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","headlineShort":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","summaryShort":"Modern chefs are going back to recipes from a 1938 cookbook","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-21T21:44:05.565964Z","entity":"article","guid":"40ae5520-cb66-46a9-ae43-c7cfd8c3ad65","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T09:16:24.349192Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","_id":"624ec6861f4b7b4f754389af","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For more than 100 years, the synagogues in Kolkata, India, have been cared for by Muslims in a shining example of friendship uniting faith.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Birth of the ‘Baghdadis’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor nearly 140 years, from 1772 to 1911, Kolkata was the capital of British India – a bustling commercial city on the bank of the Hugli River in the heart of West Bengal. Its strategic position, roughly 150km upstream from the Bay of Bengal, not only brought foreign trade, but also enticed several foreign communities – from Chinese to Armenians to Greeks – to migrate to the thriving city. Among them were Jews from the Middle East.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnown as ‘Baghdadis’ or ‘Baghdadi Jews’ because of their origins in modern-day Iraq, Syria and other Arabic-speaking places, Jewish immigrants began settling in Kolkata in 1798 after a trader named Shalom Cohen came in search of riches. As news spread of Cohen’s success in the trade of diamonds, silk, indigo, opium and cotton, Kolkata’s Jewish population grew rapidly, and by the early 1900s, thousands of Jews were living harmoniously alongside Kolkata’s many Hindus and Muslims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Disappearing act","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War Two, as many as 5,000 Jews resided in Kolkata. During the community’s peak in the 1940s, Kolkata was home to five synagogues, as well many Jewish businesses, newspapers and schools. Today, what was once India’s largest Judaic community has dwindled to fewer than 24 people, as many Baghdadi Jews have immigrated to Israel, the US, Britain, Canada and Australia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, while Kolkata’s Judaic population ages and shrinks, its remaining community continues a cross-cultural tradition that has existed for the past three generations: its three remaining houses of worship are maintained and cared for by Muslim men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p075kjlj","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Family across faiths","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EClimbing the marble staircase and pushing past the stained glass window of Kolkata’s Beth El Synagogue, built in 1856, visitors may come across a rare sight: a team of four white-clad Muslim men busy polishing the wooden balconies, sweeping the chequered marble floors and ensuring that the Star of David and seven-pointed menorah adorning the building’s sand-coloured facade are clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral of the caretakers, such as Siraj Khan, a third-generation Muslim employee whose family has been maintaining the synagogue for more than 120 years, have grown up alongside Beth El’s few remaining members. According to AM Cohen, general secretary of Kolkata’s Jewish Community Affairs, Khan and the other Muslim caretakers of the city’s synagogues are considered part of the Jewish family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Religious relatives","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust 300m from Beth El, one of Kolkata’s other remaining synagogues, Magen David, a towering Italian Renaissance-style red-brick building, is also maintained by four different Muslim men whose families have looked over the temple for generations. Like at Beth El, after the caretakers unlock the doors and turn on the altar lights, illuminating Hebrew inscriptions of the Ten Commandments, the workers often gather in a courtyard to unfurl a prayer rug towards Mecca and bend in prostration to Allah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Jael Silliman, one of Kolkata’s last remaining Jews and author of the digital archive \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jewishcalcutta.in\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERecalling Jewish Calcutta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which aims to preserve the memories and legacy of the city’s Jewish community, there has always been a cultural familiarity between Muslims and Jews in Kolkata, as the earliest Jewish immigrants to the city spoke Judeo-Arabic and wore Arabic attire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeyond Kolkata, the two religions have a long history of overlap. Fittingly, during the tumultuous years before and during World War Two, many European Jews fled Nazi Germany and found safe refuge in Kolkata. Like their Jewish Middle-Eastern predecessors, these newly arrived European refugees soon found that they had a lot in common with the Muslims who made up Kolkata’s largest minority group – from similarities between kosher and halal food to their music and dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Special bond","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“God is everywhere, be it a mosque, temple, church or synagogue, and working in this quaint synagogue is a service to God that I do wholeheartedly,” said Khan (pictured), whose grandfather and father cared for the Beth El Synagogue, and who now maintains it alongside his brother.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“His name or form is not to be differentiated when the language of love and kindness is spoken. And this special bond is what I feel with this synagogue.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Melting pot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWest Bengal is home to India’s third-highest concentration of Muslims, and Kolkata, its capital, has always been something of a haven for religious tolerance. While the majority of the 4.5 million population is Hindu, Muslims, Christians, Jews, Buddhists and Sikhs from across the world have long co-existed in the so-called ‘City of Joy’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, it’s not uncommon in Kolkata for Hindus to join Muslims in mosques to celebrate the Eid-al-Adha ‘Festival of Sacrifice’ – one of the holiest Islamic holidays. The Jewish Girls’ School that was established in Kolkata in 1881 is now predominantly Muslim. And every year during the holy Hindu celebration of Durga Puja and the Christian Christmas festivities, a sea of Bengali revellers, regardless of religion, routinely take to the streets to dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Fading away","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to AM Cohen, a few factors led to Kolkata’s Jewish population disappearing after the end of World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFirst, India’s independence from Britain in 1947 signalled an uncertain time for India’s Jews. Banks and businesses became nationalised, and many Jewish property owners, fearing their assets may be taken by the Indian government, moved to Britain or the US. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the creation of the state of Israel in 1948 spurred a steady migration of Jews from India and from around the world to the new country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Uncertain future","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Kolkata’s dwindling Jewish population faces a very uncertain future. While both the Beth El and Magen David synagogues are now recognised as protected heritage buildings by the Archaeological Survey of India, they – along with the city’s oldest synagogue, Neveh Shalom – haven’t held regular Saturday services since the late 1980s due to a lack of attendance. According to the Jewish \u003Cem\u003Eminyan \u003C\u002Fem\u003Econgregational quorum, 10 adult males must be present to sanctify public prayer, and there aren’t enough Jewish men left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1940s, Ian Zachariah, treasurer of Emunah Calcutta Jewish Trust, remembers that the wooden seats at Kolkata’s synagogues used to be filled with hundreds of worshippers during the High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. Now, the three buildings are only open by special appointment or by asking one of the Muslim caretakers, who are paid to look after the temples by the Emunah Calcutta Jewish Trust, to enter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf the 24 or so Jews who continue to live in Kolkata, most are over the age of 50 and older than their Muslim brethren who continue to maintain the synagogues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"An Indian inspiration","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs violence and political tension against Jews and Muslims continue to draw headlines throughout much of the world, Kolkata’s Muslim caretakers and their commitment to looking after these Jewish synagogues are a reminder that these two communities share much in common, and the importance of loving one’s neighbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKolkata’s Jewish population may soon fade away, but as long as there is someone to care for the temples, open the doors and let visitors in, a part of their heritage will live on thanks to their Muslim brothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EVideo by Kalpana Pradhan, text by Sreya Chatterjee.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbreaking-barriers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBreaking Barriers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series featuring inspiring tales of unity and humanity in theatres of dispute and division.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-04-18T19:40:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Indian synagogues preserved by Muslims","headlineShort":"The synagogues preserved by Muslims","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For more than 100 years, the synagogues in Kolkata, India, have been cared for by Muslims in a shining example of friendship uniting faith.","summaryShort":"As Kolkata’s Jewish population dwindles, a symbol of harmony unites religions","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:33:21.517678Z","entity":"article","guid":"2af36186-f27c-46d7-a3b9-360876e43842","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:47:34.153892Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","_id":"624ec66c1f4b7b68567dca54","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although the heavily-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations, its lesser-known native Paradesi Jewish community is fast-dwindling.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the small neighbourhood of Mattancherry in the South Indian city of Cochin, Kashmiri shopkeepers in Islamic dress stand in front of shops emblazoned with banners reading “Shalom!” Inside, Hindu statues and shawls vie for space with Jewish stars, menorahs and mezuzahs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough this multiculturalism might seem strange, the majority-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations. Less known is that there’s also a fast-dwindling native Jewish community, known as the Paradesi (Foreign) Jews, who once populated the neighbourhood’s Jew Town area. At its peak in the 1950s, there were a total of 250 Jews in the thriving Jew Town community\u003Cem\u003E;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E then most immigrated to newly founded Israel. Today, only six Paradesi Jews remain here; most are in their 80s and only one is of child-bearing age.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough little known, India’s Jews have a long history in this part of the world, reputedly first arriving as the descendants of traders from the time of King Solomon’s reign (circa 970 to 931 BC) and landing in present day Kodungallur, 47km to the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometime between 379 and 1000 (date contested), the then Chera Dynasty king, Bhaskara Ravi Varma, bestowed a gift of copper plates to the tribe, giving 72 privileges to the community, including the freedom to practice their religion and tax exemption “as long as the world and the moon exist”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 14th Century, the Jewish community and temple moved south to Cochin due to flooding further north, and in 1344 they built Kochangadi Synagogue, Cochin’s first synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1492, a group of Sephardic Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula came to Cochin; and since then the community has continued to assimilate incredibly successfully. During Portuguese persecution in the 16th Century, they were granted sanctuary by the Hindu Rajah of Cochin, Keshava Rama Varma. The present day \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.keralatourism.org\u002Fkochi\u002Fparadeso-synagogue-mattancherry.php\"\u003EParadesi synagogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built in 1568 on land granted by Varma, and the Jew Town neighbourhood built up around it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe community’s absolute acceptance was shown in 1968, when the synagogue celebrated its 400th anniversary of refuge and was given a \u003Cem\u003Emazeltov\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (congratulations) by then Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite being able to call this land home, the dwindling Paradesi community looks set to disappear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUpon arriving in Jew Town, I headed straight to Synagogue Lane, the main thoroughfare, expecting to find rows of vibrant Jewish shops and synagogues. But there was only one authentic Judaica shop left among all the tourist traps: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjewishmonumentskerala.blogspot.com.au\u002F2011\u002F08\u002Fsarah-jacob-cohens-hand-embroidery-shop.html\"\u003ESarah’s Embroidery Shoppe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The store’s iron-gated windows were decorated with Jewish stars of David, while the bars were painted white and blue in honour of the Israeli flag. As a practicing half-Jew from New York who’d read about the lonely existence of my tribe in the southern Indian state of Kerala, my heart sang when I entered and saw Hebrew writing on the walls and \u003Cem\u003Echallah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ritual bread) covers for sale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe middle-aged Muslim shopkeeper, Thaha Ibrahim, explained that Sarah Cohen, the elderly Jewish owner, had always been passionate about embroidery, making shawls and headscarves as a hobby for the community’s weddings and ceremonies – and eventually opening her own shop in the 1980s. Although Cohen used to hand make all the mezuzahs and challah covers herself, her hands now shake too much, forcing Ibrahim to take over. He’s also training other Muslim, Hindu and Christian locals the embroidery skills that Cohen taught him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI watched him demonstrate how to print the ink patterns for the challah covers. Ibrahim said he’s been intrigued by Judaism since childhood, when his father used to work next door at the postcard shop. His smile and eyes betrayed a deep love for Cohen and the Jewish community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few years back, Ibrahim and his friend Thoufeek Zakriya documented the history of the tribe in an exhibition and film called the Jews of Malabar (an old name for the region). Today, fellow Muslim Zakriya is one of the few historians for the Jews of Kerala, voluntarily maintaining \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjewsofmalabar.blogspot.in\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Ea blog\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FJews-of-Malabar\u002F143173142419133?fref=ts\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook page\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also called the Jews of Malabar. In contrast to the conflict seen elsewhere between Jews and Muslims, the two communities here have been peaceful and integrated for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIbrahim led me into the adjoining room to meet 93-year-old Cohen, who was seated in the window singing her daily Hebrew prayers from a very weathered \u003Cem\u003Esiddur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (prayerbook). She wore a floral green housedress and a pink handmade \u003Cem\u003Ekippa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional head covering for Jewish men). I learned that Cohen used to cover her hair in the traditional way with lace or a shawl, but since her hands have become too frail to affix those to her white and grey strands, she now wears a kippa in memory of her late husband, Jacob.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHer necklace was not the traditional Jewish star or \u003Cem\u003Echai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the Jewish symbol for life), but Hebrew letters spelling “\u003Cem\u003EShaddai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”, which means Almighty. I later learned other unusual characteristics of the Cochin Jewry, many of which are derived from Hinduism: they enter the synagogue barefoot, wear special coloured clothing for festivals and celebrate Simcha Torah as a fire ceremony more similar to Hannukah or the Hindu festival of Diwali. Most unusual is that the Cochin Jews have no rabbis, and the community is led entirely by male elders. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECohen stopped singing. “Do you want to learn?” she asked me. “I’ll teach you.” Unlike other Orthodox women from the diaspora, Cochin Jewish women are not forbidden to sing in mixed gender crowds or in public. In fact, the Jews of Cochin have a long tradition of singing prayers and devotional hymns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs she began to sing in Judeo-Malayalam, the traditional language of the Cochin Jews, a group of local Indian Catholic school students, dressed in saris and accompanied by a nun in full habit, watched through the window in awe. When she finished, I played her some classic Jewish chants on my phone, many of which she’d never heard before. One we both knew was the Shema (Hear, Oh Israel, our God is One) by Kirtan Rabbi, a contemporary rabbi who uses the Hindu prayer beats and styles of kirtan. The cultural mix seemed perfectly fitting. She then became immersed in her prayers again, and Ibrahim pointed me to my next stop: the tribe’s last functioning house of worship, the Paradesi synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter removing my shoes and paying my five rupees to enter, I was greeted by the youngest member of the tiny Jewish population, Yael Halleguah. She was exotic looking, with pale skin and a full head of tight black curls. At 42 years old and with no children, the lineage of the Paradesi Jews will sadly end with her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI also met Joy KJ, a Malayalee Christian who has been in charge of the 400-year-old temple for more than 25 years, his position passed to him by his father via his great-grandfather. Extremely protective of the site, he proudly showed me the tiled floors imported from China in 1762, the handknit Oriental rug from the last emperor of Ethiopia and the candle lamps from Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe most familiar area to me was the \u003Cem\u003Ebimah,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or pulpit. But, there was no rabbi to stand at the bimah, only elders who still ran the synagogue. There was an upstairs section of the synagogue for women, with a single prayer book laid open that looked like it had not been used in years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe place felt like a living museum: indeed services are held only when there is a \u003Cem\u003Eminyan (\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea group of 10 men needed to form a prayer service), now only possible with the inclusion of Jewish male visitors. So the beautiful synagogue is usually empty, save for the tourists who come to marvel at its beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the copper plates are still there, safely locked in a secret location, as is the sign from the original Kochangadi Synagogue on the temple’s outer wall that reads that the temple was built in the Hebrew year of 5105 as “an abode for the spirit of God”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter visiting this incredible town and witnessing the harmony between all faiths, it seems that: “for all religions” should be added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECorrection:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E An earlier version of this piece did not specify which Jewish community is at risk. Although there are a number of Jews left in Cochin, this piece focusses on Jew Town in Mattancherry, and its remaining resident Paradesi Jews, rather than the Malabar Jews or others who live outside of Jew Town. Once this clarification was made, it introduced several new errors into the piece, including the number of Jews in Jew Town in 1950. All errors have since been fixed.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2015-10-22T19:23:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The last six Paradesi Jews of Cochin","headlineShort":"South India's disappearing tribe","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the heavily-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations, its lesser-known native Paradesi Jewish community is fast-dwindling.","summaryShort":"Cochin's native Paradesi Jewish community looks set to disappear","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:28:07.323713Z","entity":"article","guid":"4cdef3ce-2846-4714-98f1-5e3d03eb1b4f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:31:06.974922Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","_id":"6265a2731f4b7b2ddf5e92f1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi"],"bodyIntro":"Separated by geography and language, there's not much that might seem to connect India's five dwindling Jewish communities – except praying in Hebrew, and food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEast of the Hooghly River in the Indian city of Kolkata sits Barabazar, a wholesale market whose history goes back to the 18th Century. Everything – from spices, clothes and electronics to salvaged doors and second-hand furniture – is traded here. Amidst this bustling grid of roads, at the corner of Brabourne Road and Canning Street, sits the imposing Magen David Synagogue. Adjacent to it is the city's oldest existing synagogue, Neveh Shalom Synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuilt in Italian Renaissance style in the late-19th Century with bright brick finish, beige trim, arches and a pointed tower, Magen David is striking. Inside, chequered floors, ornate pillars, shimmering chandeliers and stained-glass windows make for a memorable image. However, the synagogue is deserted on most days, and hardly any religious activity takes place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKolkata is home to the Baghdadi Jews, who were once abundant enough to warrant five synagogues; now there aren't enough for a \u003Cem\u003Eminyan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (minimum [10] male Jews required for liturgical purposes). Magen David and the smaller Beth El Synagogue on nearby Pollock Street were both classified as protected monuments and renovated by the Archaeological Survey of India in 2017. Today, they are tourist destinations, and kept open for the odd visitor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe story of disappearing Jewish populations finds echoes elsewhere in India. Esther David's recent book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharpercollins.co.in\u002Fproduct\u002Fbene-appetit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBene Appetit: The Cuisine of Indian Jews\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is an attempt to preserve the culinary traditions of these diminishing communities. Jews are believed to have first arrived in India about 2,000 years ago, according to David. Since then, until two centuries ago, waves of Jewish immigrants continued to come here from various parts of the world, fleeing persecution and looking for better livelihoods. Once they landed, they settled in disparate corners of the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe largest group, the Bene Israel Jewish community, is spread over Mumbai and Pune in Maharashtra and parts of Gujarat; while Malabar or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECochin Jews can be found in in Kerala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaghdadi Jews settled in Kolkata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; Bene Ephraim Jews near Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh; and Bnei Menashe Jews in Manipur and Mizoram. By 1940, an estimated 50,000 Jews called India home. But widespread immigration to Israel in the 1950s slowly whittled away the numbers and it is estimated that fewer than 5,000 remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by85fw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPredictably, they amalgamated into the local communities and adapted the local language and culinary influences. So much so that each community is now distinct. No two speak the same language and much of their food varies widely. Yet, certain points of overlap remain: all five communities continue to pray in Hebrew and all maintain the dietary laws – which includes no mixing of dairy and meat, no pork, no shellfish, no fish without scales – that are fundamental to the religion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The food of the Indian Jews has regional influences, but [while Jewish cuisine elsewhere usually has a meat element] their staple diet is fish [with scales] and rice,\" David explained, noting that Indian Jews end a meal with sweets made with coconut milk or fruit so as to not mix dairy with meat. \"Because kosher meat is not always available, many of them follow a vegetarian diet,\" she added. The cookbook does list a number of meat dishes, but these are cooked occasionally, on special and festive occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last Paradesi Jews of Cochin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Indian synagogues preserved by Muslims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther distinctive adjustments David notes, include swapping challah for chapatis (unleavened bread) – taking care not to cook or smear it with ghee, as is usually done in India, if served with meat – and using homemade grape juice\u002Fsherbet for the Shabbat ceremony due to the unavailability of kosher wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn award-winning author and artist from the Bene Israel Jewish community, David confessed that she had only a passing interest in food. One of her previous works, Book of Rachel, has a protagonist who turns to cooking and each chapter begins with a Jewish recipe. Yet, a cookbook was never on the radar for David. A trip to the town of Alibaug (outside Mumbai, and Bene Israel homeland) to meet with a source changed things. The aromas and taste from dishes made by her source took her back to childhood and unlocked long forgotten memories. Hence the first line of Bene Appetit: \"Food is memory\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe exact moment of deciding to write a cookbook on Indian Jewish cuisine, however, occurred far away from home, in Paris, at the launch of one of her novels, where she cooked Bene Israel Jewish dishes and started thinking of documenting Indian Jewish dishes across the country. Back home, she reached out to the communities, travelled and met people, and collected their recipes. When the pandemic hit, work progressed online, and the book was published in 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by84w0"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe arc in the food story of each of the five communities is a factor of history. In Kolkata, the change in cuisine possibly happened soon after the Iraqi Jewish immigrants arrived and discovered Indian spices. Author Sonal Ved, in her book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpenguin.co.in\u002Fbook\u002Fwhose-samosa-is-it-anyway\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhose Samosa Is It Anyway? The Story of Where \"Indian\" Food Really Came From\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, says when they arrived in the 1800s, they probably knew only such ingredients as chilli and garlic. When they discovered the rest, it \"gave rise to a whole new hybrid Jewish cuisine, which had preparations like \u003Cem\u003Earook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (meaning \"veined\" in Hebrew and Arabic), rice balls flavoured with garam masala; \u003Cem\u003Epantras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, beef-stuffed pancakes sprinkled with turmeric, ginger and garam masala; \u003Cem\u003Ehanse mukhmura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a duck-based dish where the meat is cooked with almonds, raisins, bay leaf, tamarind paste and ginger root; and \u003Cem\u003Ealoo-m-kalla murgi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, pot-roasted chicken with potatoes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the other end of the country, Mattancherry is a tiny locality south of Kochi on the Kerala coast that's home to Jew Town, a mishmash of a few streets with shops selling antiques, spices, knickknacks and local handicrafts, interspersed with cafes and eateries. At the end of Synagogue Lane is the 17th-Century Paradesi (foreign) Synagogue, built with sloped tiled roofs, blue and white willow-patterned tiles, Belgian chandeliers, Jewish symbols and four scrolls of the Torah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOutside, the humid coastal air carries the aromas of spices, something that Kerala has always had in abundance. As a trading community, the Malabar Jews sensed an opportunity and ended up controlling the local spice trade. Unsurprisingly, Malabari Jewish cuisine today is redolent with spices and tempered with coconut milk (an essential part of traditional Kerala cuisine), which works well with Jewish dietary laws. Here you'll find Malabar Jews eating flavoursome curries made with fish, chicken and vegetables, as well as sambhar (lentil and vegetable gravy), eaten with rice. There are also \u003Cem\u003Eappam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice hoppers), \u003Cem\u003Emeen pollichathu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (green fish curry), Jewish fish kofta curry, chicken in coconut curry; and puddings and \u003Cem\u003Epayasam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a kind of porridge) made coconut milk. An unusual dish is \u003Cem\u003Epastel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, something similar to an empanada, stuffed with minced chicken.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn western India, home to the Bene Israeli Jews, the local influences are unmistakable. \u003Cem\u003EPoha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (beaten rice) is a familiar Maharashtrian staple used to make breakfast and snacks, but also finds a strong presence in local Jewish food. The poha is washed and mixed with grated coconut, an array of dry fruits and nuts and chopped seasonal fruit, and forms an integral part of the \u003Cem\u003Emalida\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a local Jewish thanksgiving ceremony). But there are also unusual dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Echik-cha-halwa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a signature Bene Israeli sweet made by reducing wheat extract and coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by84vp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn India's east coast, Machilipatnam, a little port town in Andhra Pradesh's Krishna district, and a few other nearby rural towns are home to the Bene Ephraim Jews, a population of a mere 50. Andhra's fiery food (Andhra Pradesh is India's largest producer of chillies) finds its way into the local Jewish cuisine, with spicy curries accompanying local Andhra dishes that fit into the Jewish tradition, such as tamarind rice, lemon rice, biryani, chicken with \u003Cem\u003Egongura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tangy roselle leaves), sambhar, chutneys and a sweet called \u003Cem\u003Ebobbatlu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a flat, round wheat envelope with a sweet lentil filling).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd in India's north-east, the Bnei Menashe Jews in Manipur and Mizoram rely on rice – which is a local staple and eaten for all meals, including breakfast – and accompaniments cooked with fiery red or green chillies as is the local practice. These include such dishes as bamboo-cooked fish, bamboo shoot sauce, a variety of greens including colocasia stir fry and mustard leaves, \u003Cem\u003Eotenga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a dish made with elephant apple), rice \u003Cem\u003Epuris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried puffed bread) and even an egg chutney and rice pudding made with local black rice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was both surprising and heartening at the same time. Indian Jews are united by their food heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with recipes, David's book also documents how Jews of each region celebrate Jewish festivals and traditions (Shabbat, Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Passover, Hanukkah and others) and have adopted cultural aspects from the local communities, such as \u003Cem\u003Emehendi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (henna designs traditionally drawn on the bride's – and other women's – hands and legs during a Hindu wedding) and the wearing of saris and bangles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor David, travelling from community to community, and faced with language and geographical differences, it was the similarities that stood out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was both surprising and heartening at the same time,\" she said. \"Indian Jews are united by their food heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-25T18:50:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The surprising landscape of Indian Jewish food","headlineShort":"The surprising cuisine of Indian Jews","image":["p0by85qg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"9.939093","longitude":"76.270523","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0by85qg"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Separated by geography and language, there's not much that might seem to connect India's five dwindling Jewish communities – except praying in Hebrew, and food.","summaryShort":"While the dishes might be vastly different, they're connected by one thing","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-24T19:17:52.813345Z","entity":"article","guid":"a60f352f-8370-4fe7-88f9-148d00a31ee0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-24T19:17:52.813345Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot","_id":"6255dde41f4b7b013132172c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Marooned 600km north-east of Mauritius, and close to no other landform, Rodrigues is a world unto itself. It is also one of the world's most remote inhabited islands.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the plane began its descent into the small volcanic island of Rodrigues the first time I visited, I was convinced that something was wrong. Down below, the Indian Ocean stretched unbroken to the impossibly far horizon. There was no sign of land, let alone a runway large enough to safely put down a 737 aeroplane. Where did the pilot imagine we would land?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI looked around the cabin. No-one was panicking. The locals slept through it, or unconcernedly bounced children on their laps. There was no announcement from the captain, other than to politely ask passengers to fasten their seatbelts and the cabin crew to ready the cabin for landing. Breathe. It was 10, perhaps 15 long minutes before something, anything, interrupted the monotony down below: an arc of white waves, kilometres long, broke not upon land but upon the ocean itself. Then, finally, Rodrigues, and its sleepy little airport at the western end of the island, came into view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENothing can prepare you for the first time you arrive in Rodrigues. Marooned 600km north-east of Mauritius, to whom it belongs, and close to no other landform, Rodrigues is a world unto itself. It is also one of the world's most remote inhabited islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen seen from above on the western approach, Rodrigues is a strange and beautiful place of tightening, then widening, concentric circles of ocean, lagoon and land. The waves mark Rodrigues' outer limits, encircling a lagoon of near-perfect aquamarine. In turn, the lagoon encircles the main island, a long spine of green fringed with beaches and shadowed by smaller islands. The island rises to its eastern summit before sinking back into the lagoon. Then the waves once again announce the resumption of the eternal horizon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf Rodrigues were a prison, it would be impossible to escape. But isolation has always been Rodrigues' friend, protecting it from the world and its noise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERodrigues entered recorded human history in 1528 when the first ships arrived. No-one lived on the island back then and if the crew of any passing ships had come ashore here prior to this date, they left no record of their passing. Rodrigues lay too far south and too far east of the busy trade routes and trade winds that connected East Africa with Arabia and Asia. Even when Portuguese, Dutch and French ships, blown way off course, sheltered on Rodrigues intermittently through the 16th Century, they stayed only long enough to replenish their food supplies. Most often, this meant giant tortoises and the solitaire, a fatally plump bird that sailors quickly drove to extinction, just as they had the dodo on Mauritius.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA paradise with too many palm trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation being swallowed by the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat is true \"Creole cuisine\"?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1691, Frenchman François Leguat arrived on the island with seven Huguenots, fleeing religious persecution by France's Catholic government. In his account of his arrival, Leguat wrote that Rodrigues had so many giant tortoises that \"one can take more than 100 steps on their shell without touching the ground\". Leguat and his exiles planned the first colony on Rodrigues, but the remote location (and lack of women) was too much for them: after two years, unable to bear the isolation any longer, they built a boat from driftwood and fled the island, never to return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese days, Rodrigues' distance from the rest of the world is central to its charm. In pre-Covid times, nearly 1.5 million tourists visited Mauritius every year. Barely 90,000 of these (less than 6%) travelled to Rodrigues. Those that did come found an island that carries echoes of Mauritius before tourists began arriving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are no traffic jams on the island. Nothing happens in a hurry. Crime is almost non-existent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Rodrigues is a very safe place,\" said Françoise Baptiste, one of Mauritius' best-known chefs, who has lived on Rodrigues for 54 years. \"Whenever it's warm, which is often, we sleep with our doors open.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPart of that sense of safety and security comes from the quiet familiarity of the place. Rodrigues has a population of fewer than 45,000 people. Unlike the melting pot demographics of Mauritius' main island, Rodrigues is 90% Creole, its inhabitants carrying in their past a mosaic of traces from African slaves and European settlers. \"We inherited \u003Cem\u003Esega\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dancing from Africa, afternoon tea and bacon from the English and pastries from the French,\" said Baptiste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Rodrigues is a village,\" added Laval Baptiste, businessman and Françoise's husband. \"Everybody knows everybody.\" And while they often have to travel to the main island of Mauritius, Françoise and Laval always long for the languid lifestyle of their home island. \"We are always very happy to come back after a few days of rushing around,\" Laval said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We inherited sega dancing from Africa, afternoon tea and bacon from the English and pastries from the French","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven Rodrigues' capital, Port Mathurin, rouses into life only occasionally – a five-minute rush hour; a flurry of minor activity whenever a ship arrives in port; the Saturday market that is all but deserted by 10:00.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAcross the island, Rodrigues is a place of quiet pleasures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom Port Mathurin, the road meanders along the north coast, heading nowhere in particular, past the tiny settlement of Anse aux Anglais, offering up still waters and sunset views like the Earth's calm exhalation at the end of a perfect day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the island's west, an ambitious project at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.francoisleguatreserve.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrançois Leguat Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E aims to restore a stretch of the island that slopes gently down to the lagoon's shore. Over the centuries, settlers and visiting sailors drove the island's tortoises to extinction and cut down most of the trees. In recent years, those running the reserve have set the ambitious target of restoring this corner of the island to resemble, as closely as possible, how Rodrigues appeared in the 17th Century, before Leguat and his Huguenot friends arrived. To this end, they have brought in giant tortoises from elsewhere in the Indian Ocean and planted more than 100,000 trees indigenous to Rodrigues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlong the west coast, close to the promontory known as Pointe du Diable, wooden frames often line the narrow roadside, from which ghostly white octopus limbs sway in the ocean breeze. Octopus is a centrepiece of Rodrigues culture and a staple of the Rodrigues table, to the extent that, said Laval, \"Each Rodriguan will eat octopus two or three times a week.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFishing for octopus is \"mostly practiced by women who are unemployed\", Françoise added. \"They do it early in the morning. This way they have time to do house duties afterwards and contribute to the family budget at the same time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECaught with a harpoon at low tide in the coral shallows of Rodrigues' lagoon, octopus is something of an island obsession, so much so that the island's authorities have felt compelled to secure the future of their national dish, a fragrant octopus curry, by putting measures in place to prevent overfishing. No-one may fish for octopus from February-March or September-October. During these months, said Laval, octopus fishers are paid by the local authorities \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to fish by doing other work, including cleaning local beaches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the opposite end of the island, in the tiny hamlet of St François, is Chez Robert et Solange. In this ramshackle beach shack with ramshackle Rodrigues charm, they serve up octopus every which way – grilled octopus, octopus curry, octopus and papaya salad – as well as lobster and other fresh seafood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery time I visit Rodrigues and go to Chez Robert, I pretend to study the menu. I ask what's fresh. And I spend long moments, as if lost in thought, staring out to sea through the palm trees. Then, in what feels like a Rodrigues rite of passage, I order the octopus. Each time I do so, I feel like I've arrived on Rodrigues for the very first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-13T20:13:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Rodrigues: The Indian Ocean island time forgot","headlineShort":"One of the most remote inhabited isles","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-19.702603","longitude":"63.427219","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Marooned 600km north-east of Mauritius, and close to no other landform, Rodrigues is a world unto itself. It is also one of the world's most remote inhabited islands.","summaryShort":"Its distance from the rest of the world is central to its charm","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-12T20:15:15.638303Z","entity":"article","guid":"a49a6804-3eea-4c57-b30a-ff339c393e3d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-14T13:40:13.179021Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b518e52f01c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fphoebe-smith"],"bodyIntro":"Known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit, Pingualuit Crater was once the destination for diamond-seeking prospectors. But the real treasure is the stories its deep waters can tell.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe plane banked to the right, hard. As we took a first sweep at the runway – or, rather, the short stretch of bumpy land in the Arctic tundra that would serve as one – an alarm sounded, the lights above the emergency exits flashed red and the sound of the aircraft's engines roaring back into action filled the main cabin. My stomach lurched.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was an exhilarating introduction to the far north of Quebec, in a region known as Nunavik. Comprising the top third of Canadian province (larger than the US state of California and twice the size of Great Britain) fringed by frayed edges of a peninsula known as Ungava, most people don't even know it exists. But that wasn't always the case.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in 1950, this area was splashed across newspapers globally and pegged as the eighth wonder of the world. Not because of the wilderness, and not due to any manmade structure, but because of the distinct land feature I was now flying over enroute to take another shot at the runway: Pingualuit Crater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The name is Inuktitut for the skin blemishes or pimples caused by the very cold weather,\" explained Isabelle Dubois, project coordinator for Nunavik Tourism, who had previously only visited the crater in winter when the landscape was covered with snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI looked out of the window to distract myself from our second landing attempt and thought how apt a moniker it was. The tundra here is pockmarked by clefts, fissures and depressions filled with tiny pockets of water. Yet amid the myriad indentations, the eponymous crater stood out significantly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btsf60"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Markusie Qisiiq, Pingualuit Park director and guide","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith a diameter of nearly 3.5km and a circumference well over 10km, it wasn't only its size that distinguished it, but also its symmetry. Almost perfectly circular and filled with water, the crater seemed as though a giant had discarded a compact mirror on the ground, which our tiny Twin Otter aircraft was now reflected in, appearing as no more than a tiny speck of dust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith a few bumps, more warning alarms and a sudden and dramatic halt, we landed, just a couple of kilometres from the edge of this curio. We would stay at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nunavikparks.ca\u002Fen\u002Fexperiences\u002Fweekend-in-parc-national-des-pingualuit\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManarsulik camp\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cluster of five solar-powered cabins and the official base camp of anyone venturing into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nunavikparks.ca\u002Fen\u002Fparks\u002Fpingualuit\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPingualuit National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the remotest national parks in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's little-known geological wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's last Arctic village?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we unpacked the plane (there are no porters or staff here) and set ourselves up inside the warm cabins, I chatted with Pierre Philie, a French cultural geographer with a strong interest in anthropology and resident of Kangiqsujuaq (Nunavik's most northern settlement and gateway to this geographical wonder). He was sent begrudgingly on assignment to this part of Quebec 40 years ago, fell in love with it and a local woman, and never left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPhilie showed me a copy of a black and white aerial photograph of Pingualuit. It was taken on 20 June 1943 by one of the US Army Air Force officers who spotted it. As I wondered what the officer must have made of it back then, Philie began to explain a little more about the crater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was first known to anyone from the Western world that year, during World War Two, when fighter pilots spotted it and used it as a navigational aid. But they didn't share it with the rest of the world until the war was over,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btsf59"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People hiking around Pingualuit crater","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen they did, in 1950, one of the first people to be mesmerised by it was a prospector from Ontario called Fred W Chubb. He was convinced the landmark was caused by a volcano, which would likely mean diamonds lay within it. He asked the advice of the then-director of the Ontario Museum, Dr Meen, who, equally captivated, journeyed there with him to investigate (it's the reason that for a short time Pingualuit was known as Chubb Crater) – but the volcano theory was eventually dismissed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now we know beyond doubt that it is a meteor crater,\" said Philie, as the sun began to set over Manarsulik Lake, located about 2.5km from Pingualuit, leaving the edge of the crater as faint as a watermark on the dazzling pink horizon. \"Tomorrow we shall see it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day began at sunrise with a stroll among great shards of rocky clitter. Some, Philie explained, were large chunks of granite and broken bedrock (relics from glaciation during the last Ice Age); others were examples of impactite, formed as a result of melting during impact. The latter were ink black and covered with tiny holes, evidence from when the minerals within liquified and bubbled during the heat and pressure of the collision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Its impact is estimated to have been 8,500 times stronger than the A-bomb dropped on Hiroshima","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The impact happened 1.4 million years ago,\" confirmed Philie, as we ascended the lip of the rim. \"Looking at the crater's width and depth [around 400m], its impact is estimated to have been 8,500 times stronger than the A-bomb dropped on Hiroshima.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat fact was remarkable. But finally reaching the edge and gazing down on the gaping hole of Pingualuit, where the lake inside sparkled with ice that encrusted two thirds of it – despite it being July – was even more astounding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btsf4n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar powered cabins at Manarsulik camp","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course, the Inuit knew about it before the Westerners came to look for diamonds,\" said Markusie Qisiiq, Pingualuit Park director and guide. \"They called it the Crystal Eye of Nunavik.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom where I stood, under an impossibly blue sky dotted with as many clouds as the tundra was with \"blemishes\", that name seemed to fit best of all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we made our way over the rough ground, circling the lake, Philie became increasingly animated. He spoke about the clarity of the water inside – which is fed only by rain and thought to be the second purest water in the world (only more transparent is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191001-japans-mysterious-lake-of-the-gods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Mashu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Japan); about the mystery of the Arctic char that live within it – which scientists still can't agree on how they got there as there's no streams running in or out, and who have turned to cannibalism to ensure their own survival; and about evidence that shows that as well as the Inuit, another people roamed here too at least 1,000 years before them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The landscape is a living book,\" he concluded. \"There is so much we can learn if we take the time to read it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years people have been coming to do just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2007, a team of researchers from Laval University in Quebec, led by Professor Reinhard Pienitz, visited in winter to take samples from beneath the water. Pienitz described it then as a \"scientific time capsule\" and one that, even as they continue to learn more about it, can reveal clues about past episodes of climate change and how ecosystems adapted under pressure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btsf4g"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ice inside Pingualuit crater","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI walked to the water's edge, where Philie picked up a rock and tossed it onto the frozen surface. The otherwise silent air was immediately filled with a melodious chime as splinters of ice ricocheted against each other and drifted off into the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter filling our bottles to taste this pure H2O, we made our way back to camp. We only stopped once, forced to by the passing of an almighty caribou herd in numbers too large to count. As I watched this migrating wildlife spectacle alongside a crater as large as one found on the Moon, my stomach lurched once more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this time it wasn't caused by a bumpy landing. Instead, it was the realisation that while there may be no diamonds here, there is a wealth of stories and scientific revelations just waiting to be discovered, mere metres beneath the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEDITOR'S NOTE:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E A previous version of this article incorrectly stated that an extinct ancestor to humans once roamed here. This has now been corrected. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-04T10:27:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada","headlineShort":"An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada","image":["p0btsf8j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"61.274722222222","longitude":"-73.660277777778","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec","promoImage":["p0btsf8j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit, Pingualuit Crater was once the destination for diamond-seeking prospectors. But the real treasure is the stories its deep waters can tell.","summaryShort":"It's known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit","tag":["tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","tag\u002Fremote"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-03T22:27:52.783492Z","entity":"article","guid":"6f8d9c2d-cb85-4a37-b5d2-fbd34f8585fb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T02:59:22.444647Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_north-america"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","_id":"624ec6a61f4b7b52c95b9748","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYou wouldn't think of the overtrodden Dominican Republic as a cutting-edge archaeology destination. Yet hidden beneath the beach cabanas are likely clues to a pre-Columbian mystery that's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries: who actually discovered the Caribbean?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Columbus arrived on Hispaniola in the 15th Century, he encountered the Taíno, an Arawakan-speaking people who came from the Orinoco Delta of present-day Venezuela, emigrating as early as 400 BCE. While it is often assumed that the Taíno were the \"original\" inhabitants of the Caribbean, particularly the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FGreater-Antilles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreater Antilles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, other peoples had already been living there for several thousand years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola are known as the \"Archaic\" peoples, characterised by their usage of stone tools (and the \"Ceramic Age\" Taíno by their creation of ceramics). The term generalises a diverse group of prehistoric peoples whose languages and names for themselves are unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uniroma1.it\u002Fen\u002Fnotizia\u002Frare-pre-columbian-archaic-settlement-discovered-dominican-republic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea recent discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by a team of Italian and Dominican archaeologists on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula, could change our understanding of who they were and where they came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"El Pozito\" (Spanish for \"little well\") is a rare settlement belonging to these little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola. It's also the Dominican Republic's biggest Archaic discovery in half a century. To the untrained eye, the site – a grassy mound surrounded by lush vegetation 2km inland from capes Cabrón and Samaná – might not seem like anything more than an idyllic spot for a picnic. But after surveying the area and finding a natural spring nearby, seasoned archaeologist Alfredo Coppa knew to dig deeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"El Pozito archaeological site in Dominican Republic","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor 2.5 weeks in September 2021, Coppa's team from Sapienza University of Rome, with investigators from Santo Domingo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmuseo.d.dominicano\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo del Hombre Dominicano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, combed a 12mx12m area of virgin turf untouched by agriculture. Digging just 20cm below the surface, gently prodding the moist, coffee-coloured earth for signs of past civilisations, they found a trove of polished stone hammers, pestles and axes, conches and other tools used by the Archaic people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most significant finds are the \u003Cem\u003Emariposoid \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor butterfly axes, which were likely used for felling trees to make canoes and oars; and a small ceremonial well (35cm in diameter) with 12 stone pestles buried inside, barely used save some plant residue, leading the team to believe these settlers were also ritualistic – a ground-breaking revelation considering how little is known about their way of life. Few Archaic settlements have been uncovered around the Caribbean to date and this is among the most promising.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile carbon dating has yet to be done on El Pozito, Coppa believes it to be around 2,000 years old (Late Archaic Age), based on the objects he's found so far, but he's hoping the settlement is much older than that. Particularly because what he's really looking to find is a necropolis – with burials spanning centuries – in order to glean genetic insights. And there's a good chance he will, because no site where humans lived has not been associated with a necropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this,\" said Coppa, who has overseen excavations in other places like Oman, Eritrea, Pakistan and Libya – and, of course, across the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playa Onda Samana on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first and last major Archaic discovery here happened in the 1970s in the southern part of the island. Over the years, Coppa found butterfly axes scattered around the north, but no site, which led him to believe the Archaic peoples lived down south, likely coming from Cuba, the biggest island in the Greater Antilles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil he found El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is tucked away at the end of the Samaná Peninsula, a 30-mile verdant strip of land in the country's north-east that juts into the Atlantic Ocean. An eco-tourism paradise, the land is rainforested and dramatic, formed by the Sierra de Samaná, an extension of the Cordillera Septentrional – the biggest mountain range in the Caribbean – that runs along the northern coast, providing natural shelters along several remote beaches. Coppa theorises that these Archaic people may have reached Samaná from Puerto Rico, the closest nearby island about 200 nautical miles to the east, though he says more research is needed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US' lost, ancient megacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWas this the wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the bigger questions are: Which continent did they come from? To whom are they related? How did they interact and trade with others? And what happened to them?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ynharari.com\u002Fbook\u002Fsapiens-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESapiens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E author Yuval Noah Harari, the first seafaring society may have developed on the Indonesia archipelago 45,000 years ago. It would take another 39,000 years or so for homo sapiens to discover the Caribbean – the last region of the Americas to be settled by humans, and the first to be colonised by Europeans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile 6,000 years ago is relatively recent for archaeologists, evidence is scarce because almost nothing organic survives the tropics. The humid climate, volcanic soil and rising sea levels – not to mention agriculture, development, looting and indifference – breaks down and swallows up bones, settlements and objects, posing a challenge to Caribbean archaeology. But that's precisely what makes the field – and this discovery – exciting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone pestles at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists,\" said Dr Reniel Rodríguez-Ramos, professor of archaeology at University of Puerto Rico in Utuado. Rodríguez-Ramos has written about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F31043611_From_the_Guanahatabey_to_the_Archaic_of_Puerto_Rico_The_Nonevident_Evidence\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow European travelogues at the time of Columbus misguided archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who long considered them as nomadic \"fisher-hunter-gatherers\" who lived in caves by the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, texts by Spanish and Italian travellers, such as Bartolomé de las Casas, a missionary from Seville who became a Dominican friar, were the only \"evidence\" archaeologists had about these non-Taíno peoples, often described in unsophisticated terms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut recent discoveries across the Caribbean – from the cultic implications of the 12 pestles found at El Pozito, to finding shelters and weights likely used to hold down fish nets in Puerto Rico – show that these first settlers were more skilled than archaeologists historically thought. They practiced agriculture and basket weaving, and were more sedentary than survivalist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the Caribbean archipelago is not visible from land (apart from the island of Trinidad, which can be seen from Venezuela), nor was it ever part of any continent. This means these first settlers took a chance when they ventured into the Caribbean Sea, which was unusual to do back then, say archaeologists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These people had to be explorers,\" said Rodríguez-Ramos in answer to why they would be so daring. \"There was no big population pressure back then. No need to jump into a canoe and risk their lives to come here. That's what navigators do. These are sea people. They're just like climbers. They do things because it's part of their idiosyncrasies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"mariposoid or butterfly axes at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe theorises they came from across the Americas, and that the islands were a centre for trade and cultural exchange; a maritime Silk Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, while it was long assumed that the Archaic people were either ancestors to or mixed with the Taíno, DNA analysis now tells us that the first settlers were genetically distinct, despite evidence that the two groups coexisted for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis surprised experts. \"When two groups meet you usually find mixture. It's almost entirely absent from the Caribbean and we are wondering why that is,\" said Dr Kathrin Nägele, a Caribbean-specialised archaeogeneticist from the Max Planck Institute, who pioneered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.science.org\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1126\u002Fscience.aba8697\"\u003Ea study on ancient Caribbean genomics\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in Science in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis absence, however, could be for lack of samples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe study was the first time ancient Caribbean human genomes were successfully sequenced, thanks to a breakthrough in DNA retrieval. (This led to subsequent studies by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41586-020-03053-2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHarvard University\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and other, smaller labs.) While hundreds of Taíno skeletons have been analysed so far, only 55 Archaic Age genomes have been sequenced: 52 from Cuba and three from the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhich is why Coppa is hoping to find a necropolis at El Pozito, where he may be able to source the inch-long bone they're searching for – the skull's petrous bone, which protects the inner ear – that is the best source of preserved DNA. It may explain who the Archaic peoples were related to and what happened to them; if they mixed with Ceramic Age groups, Europeans, died out or disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playta Fronton on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every new genome we study has the potential to change what we thought we knew,\" said Dr Kendra Sirak, research fellow at Harvard Medical School, who works with Coppa on sequencing ancient genomes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is purposely not geotagged (so you can’t find it in Google Maps) in order to protect it from looters who sell archaeological objects to tourists on the black market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you happen to find anything on your travels that could be of interest to archaeologists, be sure to leave it where you found it and notify authorities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Travel responsibly","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers interested in digging deeper, the place to start is the Museo del Hombre Dominicano in Santo Domingo, when it reopens. The impressive four-storey brutalist anthropological museum has been undergoing renovations since 2017, though Glenis Tavarez, a forensic archaeologist who has been with the museum for 38 years, hopes it will reopen for its 50th anniversary in 2023. When it does, it will feature artefacts from El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor now, it's best to head to Samaná. While the site is not yet open to the public (the dig is due to continue in July and interested travellers are welcome to inquire about joining), nearby on Cape Samaná, about a two-hour trek from the quiet fishing village of Las Galeras through jungle, is a towering 90m-high limestone cliff that runs 3.5km along a beach called Playa Frontón. The cocooned white-sand beach, along with its neighbour Playa Madama, is accessible only by foot, boat or horse. Coppa suggests these beaches as good places for interested travellers to explore, as both are filled with accessible pre-Columbian sites, including caves and petroglyphs, which he surveyed before finding El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile seeking shade under the sea-worn rockface or inside a cave, you might watch snorkelers or kayakers paddling the glistening turquoise waters – and be reminded of the intrepid people who came here first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-23T03:36:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","headlineShort":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.208070","longitude":"-69.251297","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","summaryShort":"It's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-22T21:21:38.07342Z","entity":"article","guid":"c330b086-41cf-4ce9-82e8-d5cb1ac60e8d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:32:22.363286Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise","_id":"6261bbbb1f4b7b7bdc51a692","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo"],"bodyIntro":"There are more bicycles than cars on La Digue, a 10-sq-km island that is doing everything it can to save itself – and one rare bird species – from overtourism.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELa Digue is arguably one of the most well-known of the 115 islands in the Seychelles. It attracts thousands of tourists each year to Anse Source d'Argent, often called the most photographed beach in the world due to its imposing boulders reminiscent of prehistoric times, an ideal backdrop to Hollywood films and commercials. On a smaller scale, bird watchers from all over come to witness the rare sighting of the Seychelles Black Paradise Flycatcher bird, an endangered species endemic to the Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps the island's less well-known marvel is its lack of cars, and how the Digueois have managed to limit traffic in order to protect the pristine beauty of their 10 sq km territory. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoUrn":["p0c1hhk7"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith a population of only about 3,000, the Digueois pride themselves on using the bicycle as their main form of transport, unlike the bigger neighbouring islands of Mahé and Praslin, which have seen more urban growth. For locals, a car is unnecessary and moving with bicycles has always been a way of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From a small age, my brother used to try and teach us how to ride the bike. They hold the seat and you're thinking they are holding, then let you go and then you fall, and you lose your knees. And that's how you learn to ride a bike,\" said Florie Marie, a La Digue resident.\" Still, my sister, she lives in Mahé, and she still doesn't know how to ride a bike.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETourists also partake in the local tradition, renting bikes to explore the island. \"La Digue is known to be a bicycle island. So, you will get clients wanting to travel by car to the beach, but the majority, they want bicycles,\" said Travis Mills, who owns a bicycle-rental company on La Digue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe island's current vehicle count is 60, a sizable increase from the 10 it had in the '80s when only wealthy families could afford to own cars. But it's still a small number, one that is partly tied to the difficulties of individual vehicle ownership here: no cars are allowed unless they provide a public service. However, the rise in tourism construction and the necessary vehicles that come with that work has set alarm bells ringing, especially with locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"With more vehicles on La Digue, that aspect of tranquillity, quietness, relaxedness will no longer be there. And that will definitely have a great impact on La Digue itself, its tourism, its environment, and its ecosystem,\" said Patrick Andre, the Seychelles' Principal Secretary of Transport.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConservationists caution that further development could impact the natural habitat of endangered species on the island, such as the Seychelles Black Paradise Flycatcher, known as the Vev in local Creole. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fveuve-special-reserve\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVeuve Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a national park and conservation area set up to protect the endemic Vev, is a crowning jewel of natural beauty for the Digueois.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c1d3x9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We have seen the increase in the numbers of construction or development on the island of La Digue, and this has been a big concern regarding the population of the flycatcher,\" said Josianna Rose, a park ranger at the Veuve Reserve. \"People from La Digue are building quite a lot, they are cutting down trees for construction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince 2008, conservationists have transported a few dozen flycatchers to neighbouring islands through a breeding programme that would ensure this rare bird species has additional suitable habitats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELa Digue has now placed a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iol.co.za\u002Ftravel\u002Fafrica\u002Fseychelles-halts-construction-of-new-tourism-accommodation-on-la-digue-1c35f606-958a-5384-8e75-863f3b50015d\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoratorium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on building new tourism establishments until 2023, in an effort to preserve the local natural resources. \"If we really want La Digue to remain one of the gems of Seychelles, we have to be able to, at this point, start controlling, monitoring development on the island,\" said Sherin Francis, Chief Executive of the Seychelles Tourism Board.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilarly, the ban of private vehicle ownership, as well as discussions on phasing out all fuel-dependent vehicles and expanding more traditional forms of transport (there's only \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fallafrica.com\u002Fstories\u002F202203290578.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone ox-cart operator\u003C\u002Fa\u003E left on the island), have become part of the goal to turn La Digue into the eco-capital of Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise-4"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-22T20:09:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"La Digue: The Seychelles' tropical biking paradise","headlineShort":"The island banning private vehicles","image":["p0c1d43m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-4.3534826","longitude":"55.8245219","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220412-rodrigues-the-indian-ocean-island-time-forgot","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"There are more bicycles than cars on La Digue, a 10-sq-km island that is doing everything it can to save itself – and one rare bird species – from overtourism.","summaryShort":"Plus, it has one of the world's most beautiful beaches","tag":["tag\u002F20150312-video","tag\u002Fbiking","tag\u002Fbeaches","tag\u002Fisland","tag\u002Fsustainability"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-21T20:16:41.416694Z","entity":"article","guid":"42d6b601-5a6f-4e0e-b68e-dc3efa28f77d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-22T12:57:31.91131Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fseychelles"],"destinationStat":"africa_seychelles","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","_id":"624ec6911f4b7b68586e542f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a sunny July day and I felt as though I was standing in a 19th-Century film set. The whistle of the steam train sounded as I waited on the perfectly preserved Victorian platform at Alresford station in Hampshire. The pale yellow and green station palette, barley twist lamp posts and original signage was virtually the same scene as 100 years ago, and colourful blooms amplified the serene setting. The historical hissing sound marked the beginning of my journey back in time to when the county's famed watercress began to spread nationwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough watercress may not be frequently used in many countries, in Britain, where it has been cultivated commercially for hundreds of years, it is a commonplace and popular addition at mealtimes. Related to the mustard family, its Latin name, \u003Cem\u003ENasturtium officinale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is aptly translated as \"nose twister\", which anyone crunching on its punchy, peppery leaves can attest. Traditionally it's used as the base of watercress soup or to perk up salads and sandwiches, while more modern uses include watercress pesto or hummus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress is undeniably nutritious. Rich in vitamin A (from beta-carotene) and vitamin C, a source of calcium, iron and vitamin E, it also contains useful amounts of vitamin K and vitamin B6. It was known for its health benefits by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and named as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwf.org.uk\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002F2019-02\u002FKnorr_Future_50_Report_FINAL_Online.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture 50 Foods in a 2019 report by the World Wildlife Federation and Knorr\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which considered it a \"superfood\" and noted its versatility: \"both the delicate green leaves and paler stems can be eaten sautéed or fresh, and are great mixed in soups, salads, tarts and omelettes\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe handsome market town of Alresford has been the home of watercress for centuries, with the flat, chalky downlands offering the perfect conditions for the plants to flourish. It's known as \"the watercress capital of the UK,\" said Andy Elworthy, senior farms manager at local producer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vitacress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVitacress Salads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He explained that the area provides a constant supply of crystal-clear chalk spring water in which the cress grows, containing essential minerals such as calcium, which is required by the plant. \"The water comes out the ground at a constant 10 to 11C,\" he added, \"which is necessary to protect the crop during winter and cool it in summer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress was far too perishable to be transported by horse and cart along poor roads since its delicate leaves are best delivered quickly for freshness. It was the opening of Britain's public railways in the 19th Century – particularly the Mid-Hants railway link in 1865, which connected Alresford to London – that ensured its nationwide success. The new rail links meant that watercress could be rapidly transported to the capital and beyond; and while the Mid-Hants railway transported freight from turnips to racehorses, it was soon dubbed the \"Watercress Line\" owing to the huge quantities sent to London's Covent Garden Market each day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Steam train on the heritage Watercress Line, Alresford","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London,\" said culinary historian Regula Ysewijn. In fact, watercress was nicknamed \"poor man's bread\" by the Victorians, and street sellers in London sold bunches of it in paper cones to be eaten as a snack, jazzing up what would have been, for many, a plain diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIts popularity continued over the decades. During both world wars, watercress sandwiches in Britain at high tea became a national institution as people rejoiced in homegrown, healthy produce. And in 2003, in a bid to get Brits to eat more greens and to view watercress as more than a garnish, the campaign \"Not Just a Bit on the Side\" from British farmers restarted its notoriety. Even today in the most quintessential place for afternoon tea in London – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theritzlondon.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ritz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – an egg mayonnaise, chopped shallots and watercress brioche roll always features on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe English vegetable picked by candlelight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190710-the-strange-story-of-britains-oldest-sweet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange story of Britain's oldest sweet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210810-englands-delectable-fleeting-vegetable\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's delectable, fleeting vegetable\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the 20-mile Mid-Hants line was closed in 1973 due to British Rail discontinuing loss-making branch lines, volunteers raised finances and eventually reopened it in 1985 as a heritage line, running a 10-mile route from Alresford to Alton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors flock to Alresford to travel on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwatercressline.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWatercress Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, lured by the quintessentially English countryside and Georgian town with pastel-coloured mansions, as well as for the opportunity to learn about the history of the railway and its historical link to watercress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring my July visit, I noticed the original sidings that would have linked the main railway track to the busy goods yard, in what is now the station car park. This is where the watercress would have been unloaded onto train wagons by farmers, who would bring the watercress by horse and cart from local farms and pack it into wooden boxes with ice and water to prevent it from perishing. A handwritten note detailing the watercress' final destination would be attached to the outside of the wagon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The railway allowed the commercialism of watercress, which occurs naturally in the area, and the cress was taken to London, Southampton, Nottingham and Northampton in four to five hours,\" said Simon Baggott, general manager of the Watercress Line. \"We think Amazon is amazing, but railways were delivering fast even in those days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBaggott told me that out of their fleet of steam and diesel locomotives, the oldest train in working condition here is 97 years old and the station is still lit by gas. \"The train wagons that were used were built in Eastleigh, 15 miles away; we have an example of a typical wagon from that period – all wooden apart from the wheels and suspension items. They were much smaller than today, so if you didn't have a locomotive, you could use a horse to shunt the wagons around,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Morris dancers and entertainers at the Alresford Watercress Festival","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe entire hop-on-and-off train journey is curated with care, from the smartly dressed train conductor waving us off from the platform to the lovingly restored wooden cabin to the jam-packed information boards, education rooms and viewing galleries illuminating the past. Although it wasn't open when I visited, due to Covid, Baggott told me that the onboard dining service – called the Watercress Bell – always serves a watercress course, whether a crisp salad in summer or vibrant soup in winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who prefer walking, The Watercress Way charity, established in 2016, promotes public awareness and use of the old Watercress Line (and the defunct Didcot-Newbury-Southampton Railway) with a 27-mile waymarked circular route for walkers. Running alongside disused sections of track, the route passes through magnificent rolling chalk Hampshire downland as well as Alresford itself, where you can see the buildings that rose from the ashes of the great fires of the 17th Century and, on the outskirts, a 1980 eel trapping house and disused watercress beds where locals would have left honesty boxes outside years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is only fitting that watercress is celebrated here with an extravagant event, and the\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.watercressfestival.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Alresford Watercress Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which takes place each May, does just that. It started life in 2006 with just a few traders; 15 years on, it covers the four main streets in the town centre and features more than 180 stalls from local artisan food to crafts. Highlights include the Watercress King and Queen parade with a horse and cart holding a newly harvested crop, watercress recipe demonstrations and a Watercress Eating Championship (last year's winner Glen Walsh ate an 80g bag in 27.75 seconds in a socially distanced competition in someone's back garden). There is also a \"Most Awesome Use Of Watercress\" contest, with past entrants presenting watercress hummus, pork and apple watercress sausages and watercress pesto-filled scotch eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors will also find watercress on many local menus. Whilst eating a cheese and watercress scone from a nearby farm shop, my eyes came alive and my nose wrinkled with the tingling peppery taste. My thoughts turned back to where my journey began, onboard The Watercress Line, where the window views over watercress beds served as a picturesque reminder of the town's long history with the ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Historic photo of watercress workers in Alresford, Hampshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-27T10:17:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"England's 'nose-twisting' superfood salad","headlineShort":"The UK's love of 'poor man's bread'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.0856","longitude":"-1.1656","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","summaryShort":"It's now deemed a superfood","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-26T23:17:44.935158Z","entity":"article","guid":"d419e8a4-85c9-4762-9d0a-61ab0874482f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:21:06.75178Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","_id":"624ec6911f4b7b2a264b3d46","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's easy to swallow, so Egyptian mothers feed their babies on it after nursing,\" remarked Emad Farag, an employee at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com.au\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fcaixr-the-st-regis-cairo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe St. Regis Cairo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as I slurped another spoonful of the mysterious moss-coloured soup. Of all the things I'd imagined I'd be dining on in Cairo's swankiest new hotel, \"posh baby food\" was not it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this uniquely gummy concoction \u003Cem\u003Eis no ordinary baby food. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPronounced \"mo-lo-h-i-a\", but spelt innumerable ways, the unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers. Originating from the word \u003Cem\u003Emulukia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"that which belongs to the royals\", legend has it that a healing soup made from the molokhia plant nursed an Egyptian ruler back to health in the 10th Century. And so, a stew worthy of pharaohs was born, and a royal veggie was crowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far back as you can trace the roots, people ate what was local, and what is local along the Nile is molokhia,\" food historian-cum-food health writer Michelle Berriedale-Johnson said. To this day, 95% of Egyptians live along the fabled river's life-giving banks and arc-shaped delta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They were eating \u003Cem\u003Eful \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty fava bean stew) and molokhia in pharaonic times, and they're eatingful and molokhia now, because that's what grows and what suits their diet and the climate,\" Berriedale-Johnson continued. \"You'll get leaves in some of the tomb paintings,\" she said of the saw-toothed leaf vegetable that belongs to the mallow family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.ch\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FTreasure_Trove_of_Benefits_and_Variety_a.html?id=fIJ1DwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&hl=en&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author Nawal Nasrallah writes: \"The ancient Egyptians left no culinary recipes, but food remains from their tombs and coffin murals, that depict baking and other food-related activities, testify to the sophisticated level of their cuisine… These depictions also reveal the abundance of their produce such as Jew's mallow (mulukhiyya).\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its plentiful supply, molokhia wasn't always available to the masses. According to folklore, the Caliph of Cairo (one of Egypt's rulers from the 10th Century Fatimid dynasty) outlawed consumption of the viscous soup because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect on women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The molokhia plant grows along the Nile is sold at markets in Egypt","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo longer the preserve of pharaohs, these days molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen. While the official national dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekoshary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a vegetarian medley of rice, chickpeas, macaroni and lentils) most Egyptians consider molokhia to be the country's emblematic meal. The earthy and grassy flavoured at-home dish is ordinarily eaten in the evening – paired with rice, bread or meat. However, some purists (and children) will consume molokhia neat, as a lunchtime soup. It's also a regular fixture on the menus of no-frills Egyptian restaurants like Cairo's El Prince on Talaat Harb Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not an expensive vegetable,\" Farag said. \"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor.\" In Aswan's Sharia as-Souq, I queued alongside a construction worker, bank manager and taxi driver to buy bunches of it from a rusty wheelbarrow manned by Mahmoud. The 15-year-old market vendor told me he sells 110 EGP ($7) of molokhia daily, harvested on his family's one-hectare plot in nearby \u003Cem\u003EAbu El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReesh.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EThe world's best falafel?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170323-the-deadly-dish-people-love-to-eat\"\u003EThe deadly dish people love to eat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuckier stallholders get to shelter from the stifling sun under rainbow parasols lining the bazaar's seven blocks, which run parallel to the Nile. I followed my nose to Al Reda spice store on Saad Zaghloul Street, where burlap sacks overflowed with dried hibiscus flowers, cumin and dried molokhia. The store's third-generation owner Moustafa Mohammed told me that while his ancestors made\u003Cem\u003Emolokhia nashfa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which uses dried versus fresh leaves, he mops up his molokhia with baladi (Egypt's ancient answer to pita).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner","imageOrientation":"portrait","pullQuote":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner\np09r4dc2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamily traditions and geography dictate how and what is eaten with molokhia. In coastal cities like Alexandria, locals devour \u003Cem\u003Emolokhia bel gambary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with shrimps. Meanwhile, in the country's rural hinterland, it's paired with poached rabbit – a meat of the privileged few in ancient Egypt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETarek Helmy – a semi-retired consultant from Cairo – folds the green gloop into rice, as his father did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even the eating of molokhia can be different from one house to another,\" Helmy told me over a lavish lunch at his home in a gated community on Cairo's fringes. The invitation came about after a serendipitous meeting with one of Helmy's close friends in Luxor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelmy is one of a growing number of upper middle-class Egyptians who've traded Cairo's relentless din and dust for greened suburbia. Despite having deep pockets, he still delights in eating the slimy soup twice a week. \"Good molokhia sticks to the rice rather than separating into a watery pool on the plate,\" he explained. \"I even flew my mother over to Dubai, when I lived there, to teach my cook how to make molokhia!\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The makhrata, a mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping into Helmy's spotless kitchen, I watched as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a \u003Cem\u003Emakhrata, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It's a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia's uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who can stomach the slime, their gut and waistline will thank them later. \"It (molokhia) has all kinds of good digestive virtues,\" Berriedale-Johnson said. A recent study published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874120301756\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Ethnopharmacology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals that its leaves can even prevent gut inflammation and obesity. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA superfood without the cult following or jacked-up prices, molokhia is packed with Vitamin C, E, potassium, iron and fibre. \"It [molokhia] also contains certain antioxidant carotenoids and antioxidant elements, making a well-rounded and highly beneficial addition to your diet,\" Cairo-based child nutritionist Mai Amer told me of the nutritional powerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarek Helmy (here, with a friend) eats molokhia twice a week with rice","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the kitchen, I joined Tarek over a sublime-smelling stove. \"If you hear the \u003Cem\u003Etsas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sizzle), you're doing it right,\" he said, ladling the molokhia into a simmering pan of garlic, ground coriander and melted ghee. \"I add in some tomato for tartness and sweetness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like molokhia's regional variations, chefs have their own riffs on the recipe. Mohammed Fatih, a chef at Aswan's Makka Restaurant (located on Abtal el Tahrir Street) revealed, \"My secret is to cook a broth base made with bones from the inside of a cow's tail and simmer it for three hours.\" The freshly-minced molokhia is then slowly added to the broth. Meanwhile, Luxor-born head chef Hussein Mustafa (who works on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanctuaryretreats.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanctuary Retreat's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E trio of luxury Nile river yachts) asserts the importance of provenance. \"The best molokhia is grown amongst sugar cane fields. That's why molokhia is better in the south (of Egypt) than the north.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you hear the tsas (a sizzle), you're doing it right","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFayoum, which lies 100km south-west of Cairo in Middle Egypt is a lush oasis, where desert dunes give way to swaying palms, natural sulphur springs and endless green fields. Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1818-1770 BCE) eyed up the area's agricultural potential, and 3,500 years later, Fayoum's glut of molokhia farmers continue to work its fertile land. Wall-to-wall sunshine and the well-drained soil are perfect conditions for molokhia, which grows here from May to August in as little as 60 days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two-metre-high, super-green is also cultivated on Cairo's dusty, abandoned roof terraces. Malik Tag, head of smart farming at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschaduf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchaduf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, gave me a tour of the social enterprise's rooftop headquarters (located in the upmarket neighbourhood of \u003Cem\u003EMaadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E),where new urban garden concepts are being trialled. Molokhia was one of the first vegetables to be grown as part of Schaduf's community-led hydroponic farming projects, he said. \"The initiative(s) enabled low-income families to sell leafy greens (including molokhia) to the city's high-end supermarkets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven kilometres away in the outlying city of Giza, I met with 27-year-old receptionist Mimi Melad, a self-proclaimed stickler for tradition when it comes to molokhia. \"I always cook with fresh (molokhia) from a stall on Al-Haram Street near my home,\" she said. \"And I do the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(pronounced \"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Echa-h'a\") every time,\" she continued, referring to an age-old cooking ritual still practised today by some Egyptian women. Believed to make the dish more flavoursome, the cook leaned over the steaming molokhia, mouthing the words \"\u003Cem\u003Eshahe't el mulukhiyah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile making an audible gasp, before clamping the pan's lid shut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My mother, grandmother and her mother all did the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" Melad said, brimming with pride. Something tells me the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E will be around in another four generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-03T17:06:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A superfood fit for a pharaoh","headlineShort":"The vegetable outlawed by royalty","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.8349263","longitude":"26.3814652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","summaryShort":"The unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-02T17:27:12.915103Z","entity":"article","guid":"01cd7f09-3422-48b4-a167-92e1e0b9f972","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:55.602601Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b4f741315e6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Japanese have long hailed natto as a superfood – but its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency make the fermented soybean dish a turnoff for many.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery day without fail, my 65-year-old mother prepares a dish that many people would say looks, smells and tastes revolting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nattō is very stinky. You definitely notice the smell.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENattō is a traditional Japanese food made from fermented soybeans. It has an ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency that makes it polarising, even among people who grow up with it. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchosa.nifty.com\u002Fgourmet\u002Fchosa_report_A20170929\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 2017 survey by Nifty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Japanese internet service provider, found that only about 62% of Japanese people actually enjoy nattō. It also revealed that 13% actively dislike the taste. Regardless, many eat it anyway because of the health benefits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Nattō is \u003Cem\u003Every\u003C\u002Fem\u003E stinky. You definitely notice the smell,” said Yuki Gomi, a Japanese chef who runs the cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yukiskitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYuki’s Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London. “But I always have it in my fridge.” She says it’s a staple in her home, the same way that cheese and yoghurt is readily available in many Western households.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Japanese have long hailed nattō as a superfood and believe that consumption is linked to improved blood flow and reduced risk of stroke – factors that are particularly appealing in a country that is home to one of the world’s oldest populations. My mother often boasts that nattō keeps her blood “\u003Cem\u003Esara sara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (silky). Japanese news site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoranews24.com\u002F2020\u002F02\u002F01\u002Fa-pack-of-natto-fermented-japanese-soybeans-a-day-keeps-the-death-away-according-to-study\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoraNews24\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has gone as far as to declare that \"a pack of natto a day keeps the death away”. Hitoshi Shirakawa, professor of nutrition and food science at Tohoku University's Graduate School of Agricultural Science in Sendai, muses this is “probably true”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe cites \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bmj.com\u002Fcontent\u002F368\u002Fbmj.m34\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea long-term study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in the British Medical Journal earlier this year: researchers at the National Cancer Center in Tokyo found that men and women who ate fermented soy-based foods like nattō on a daily basis reduced their risk of dying from a stroke or heart attack by 10%. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Fermented soybean foods are less likely to lose [nutritional] components during processing, which is considered to be one of the reasons for the clear association between nattō consumption and [a reduced] risk of cardiovascular diseases,” Shirakawa said. Those nutritional components include plenty of protein, iron and dietary fibre, which have positive effects on blood pressure and weight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENattō might even help people feel and look younger. One serving (roughly 40-50g) has the same levels of vitamin K as the daily requirement set by the Japanese government and may help prevent osteoporosis. Nattō is also packed with vitamin B6 and vitamin E, which Shirakawa says boosts cell turnover and slows skin aging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere barbecue culture began\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut fermented soybeans were an integral part of the Japanese diet long before its nutritional benefits were understood. Dr Samuel Yamashita, professor of Japanese history at Pomona College in Claremont, California, says the food was first introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period (710-784AD).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The historical record in Japan suggests that although nattō was introduced in the 700s, it became popular among both aristocrats and warriors in the Kamakura period (1192-1333) and became important, together with tofu, in the Buddhist-inspired vegetarian cuisine that emerged in the succeeding Muromachi period (1338-1573),” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYamashita says nattō evolved into a staple in the Japanese diet by the Edo period (1603-1867), when it appeared in cookbooks and started being prepared in the home. Soybeans were soaked in water, boiled or steamed, then blended with the bacterium \u003Cem\u003EBacillus subtilis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. They were then wrapped in straw and left to ferment for about a day, depending on the season and temperature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you add nattō to your recipes, it manages to add both rich and mellow notes to the food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday nattō involves far less preparation and is available in convenience stores and supermarkets throughout Japan. A set of nattō, typically containing three small polystyrene foam containers, costs about 100 to 300 yen (£0.75 to £2.25). Each container has a single serving of nattō and tiny packets of \u003Cem\u003Etare\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a soy sauce blend) and \u003Cem\u003Ekarashi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (hot mustard).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo prepare nattō, you simply stir the three items and then pour the sticky concoction over a bowl of steamed white rice. Other ingredients commonly used to spruce up the dish are chopped \u003Cem\u003Enegi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spring onions) and raw egg. When you lift your chopsticks to eat the end result, each bite is trailed by sticky strings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Japan, it’s most common to eat nattō for breakfast. My mother isn’t particularly fond of the taste, but consumes a bowl each morning, solely for its nutritional benefits. Akemi Fukuta, a jewellery salesperson in Tokyo’s Ginza district, says she eats it several times a week because she finds it both healthy and delicious. Gomi likes to make nattō for her four-year-old daughter’s dinner and says it’s a godsend for busy mothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome people, like Mayuko Suzuki, have an entirely different level of appreciation for the simple dish. She eats nattō two to three times a day and has made a career out of being a “nattō influencer”. Known on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCRvE_HMTo9d3bEdXR49JvUg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fnatto_musume_\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as Nattō Musume (Nattō Girl), Suzuki promotes restaurants serving unusual nattō-inspired dishes and shares her own recipes containing the slimy soybeans. She regularly shares photos of dubious combinations like nattō pasta, nattō pizza and even nattō gelato.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I like the unique taste that the fermentation brings,” she explained. “When you add nattō to your recipes, it manages to add both rich and mellow notes to the food.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGiven her enthusiasm, it’s no surprise that Suzuki has made three visits to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sendainatto.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESendai-ya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an all-you-can-eat nattō restaurant in Tokyo. For about 900 yen (£6.75), customers can devour several variations on the dish, including edamame nattō, \u003Cem\u003Egoma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sesame) nattō and \u003Cem\u003Ewakame\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed) nattō. The business also sells an unlikely dessert: nattō doughnuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESendai-ya president Itō Hidefumi is the third generation of his family to take over the business, which was established in the Yamanashi prefecture in 1961. He says Sendai-ya expanded to Japan’s capital as a response to customer demand. There are also several vending machines containing Sendai-ya’s nattō products in the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It’s very rewarding to take over a family business that provides people with such a healthy product,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite its reputation as a superfood, however, nattō has failed to gain popularity outside of Japan. It has, however, attracted enough attention to end up in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdisgustingfoodmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDisgusting Food Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Malmö, Sweden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The two things that most people find problematic with nattō are the sliminess and the smell,” said museum director Andreas Ahrens. “It does contain bacteria that’s also found in dirt, so it has that earthy kind of smell to it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What we find disgusting and delicious is very cultural","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Disgusting Food Museum features nattō alongside dishes like \u003Cem\u003Ecuy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (roasted guinea pigs from Peru) and \u003Cem\u003Ecasu marzu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (maggot-infested cheese from Sardinia). The exhibit also includes American snacks like Pop-Tarts and Twinkies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What we find disgusting and delicious is very cultural,” Ahrens said. “It all depends on what we grew up with and what we are conditioned to like. Something like nattō is a very good example of that.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGomi understands that sentiment all too well. She remembers being hesitant to include a recipe for nattō \u003Cem\u003Emaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sushi rolls) in her 2013 book Sushi at Home: The Beginner’s Guide to Perfect, Simple Sushi. “I was scared that people wouldn’t like such stinky stuff. I was almost embarrassed,” she admitted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Gomi says that she’s since seen an uptick in students who come to her cooking classes and want to know more about nattō.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“More people are traveling to Japan and staying in \u003Cem\u003Eryokan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Japanese inns) that serve nattō for breakfast,” she said. “They come back and tell me they had some strange, sticky stuff… some of them hate it. I don’t blame them. But some of them say they quite like it and want to know where they can buy it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGomi says it makes her hopeful that her non-Japanese peers will come to appreciate nattō as much as she does.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I'd love to see it more widely available in places like a farmer's market,” she said. “There is certainly a trend towards fermented food [and drink], such as kimchi, kefir and kombucha. It feels like nattō’s time is just around the corner.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBBC Travel’s\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Well World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-28T20:54:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Japan’s most polarising superfood?","headlineShort":"A superfood to 'keep death away'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Japanese have long hailed natto as a superfood – but its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency make the fermented soybean dish a turnoff for many.","summaryShort":"Its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency makes it polarising","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:49.364466Z","entity":"article","guid":"8cc07d3c-44e1-4beb-b29c-052d72902eb9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:18.185473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","_id":"62606c471f4b7b51683360c4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh"],"bodyIntro":"During Covid-19, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of moringa, a tree that's a highly nutritious food, medicine and magical talisman all rolled into one.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Look at how fine those leaves are,\" said Dika Nanta, pointing up to the waving branches of a spindly tree. \"They're so wispy that at first glance it's hard to imagine why Balinese people sometimes call this tree 'the broomstick of the gods'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe moringa tree (\u003Cem\u003EMoringa oleifera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) we were looking at really was quite unremarkable – less statuesque than the rambutan tree nearby and far less imposing than the mango trees on the other side of the road. Yet moringa (\u003Cem\u003Edaun kelor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Bahasa Indonesia) was once believed to have such intense magical properties that a simple sprig of this \"broomstick of the gods\" would be used to brush the evil spirits away from the resting place of a deceased person.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENanta, who graduated from Udayana University with a bachelor's degree in landscape architecture, grew up in a village near Ubud (considered Bali's spiritual heartland) and recalls eating moringa regularly as a child, most often boiled in a spicy stew. More recently, in his official capacity as \"Botanical Guru\" at the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rafflesbali.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERaffles Bali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, he has become fascinated by both the science and traditional beliefs behind what he refers to as \"Bali's tree of life\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moringa was traditionally a common part of the Balinese diet,\" he said. \"It began to fall into disuse long before modern science latched onto the spectacular nutritional benefits of what is now known in the West as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhealth-48138772\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F302558538_Potential_uses_of_Moringa_oleifera_and_an_examination_of_antibiotic_efficacy_conferred_by_M_oleifera_seed_and_leaf_extracts_using_crude_extraction_techniques_available_to_underserved_indigenous_popula\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2013 study on traditional uses of \u003Cem\u003EMoringa oleifera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in International Journal of Phytotherapy Research, the plant's dried leaves contain seven times the Vitamin C of oranges, nine times more protein than yoghurt, 10 times more Vitamin A than carrots and 15 times the potassium of bananas. It's thought to have 17 times more calcium than milk and 25 times more iron than spinach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pwq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, most Balinese family compounds were protected with a moringa tree. It was a highly nutritious food, medicine and a magical talisman all rolled into one. Over the course of recent decades, it came to be considered as merely peasant food – and as part of old mystical superstitions. However, during the Covid-19 pandemic, as the workforce of Bali's crashed tourism industry returned to live off the land, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of the marvellous tree that grows like a weed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHaving heard about moringa's spectacular nutritional benefits, my wife and I started eating it on a daily basis during the pandemic. It grows freely in the west Balinese village where we lived, and we quickly realised that it was incredibly versatile as a cooking ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEaten alone, moringa leaves are reminiscent of peppery spinach but Balinese cooks typically add a variety of freshly pounded local herbs and spices to the simmering vegetables to serve as a leafy stew. We dropped raw leaves into smoothies; cooked them in omelettes, soups, stews and curries; and chopped them to create delicious, peppery seasoning for egg mayonnaise sandwiches and salads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI planted two 6ft cuttings and within a year and a half they were taller than our two-storey house. Much of our fence line became a living, edible fence of moringa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the fact that the plant is freely available almost anywhere on the island, you'd rarely, if ever, see it as an ingredient in \u003Cem\u003Ewarungs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (local eateries), let alone on a tourist menu. However, a few chefs, perhaps tempted by a nutritious and flavourful ingredient that is freely available, are reviving the tradition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoringa features on the ever-changing menu at the increasingly famous tourist spot \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Frastacafemedewi\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERasta Café Medewi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the west coast surf-town of Medewi. \"I try to cook whatever local produce is in season and moringa is almost indispensable in that it's available year-round,\" said Nafisha Dewi, the café's chef, as she prepared soup made with moringa leaves, pumpkin, aromatic ginger (known sometimes as sand ginger), garlic, shallots, candlenut, chilli, coriander, lemongrass and coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pwd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Bali is predominantly Hindu, this western side of the island also has a large Muslim population. Dewi was Hindu until she married her husband Rasta and entered the Muslim faith, but both recall moringa being a favourite family dish during their childhoods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We used it not only as food but also often as medicine,\" Dewi explained as I tucked into a second helping of her delicious soup. \"My mother would treat our bruises with ground moringa leaves mixed with salt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's so pure that just a handful of these tiny leaves can cancel the effect of black magic","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That's right, we still also mash the leaves to put on cuts,\" Rasta interrupted. As a hired driver, he often visits other Indonesian islands. \"The only people I know who don't eat moringa are the West Javanese,\" he recalled. \"They believe so strongly in the magical cleansing power of moringa that they use it to wash dead bodies before burial. They think it's very strange that we Balinese eat it!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth Dewi and Rasta also agreed that witches and sorcerers – aspects of Balinese belief that, even today, remain very real – can never eat moringa: \"Anyone who's involved in black magic must avoid the tree at all costs,\" Dewi said. \"It's so pure that just a handful of these tiny leaves can cancel the effect of black magic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile native to northern India, 13 species of moringa are found throughout the world, from Bangladesh to Burkina Faso to Brazil, where they are used as traditional cures for everything from conjunctivitis to gonorrhoea to malaria. The tree is known in English as \"drumstick tree\" (due to the shape of the seed pods) or \"horseradish tree\" (as its roots taste similar to horseradish), but the fact that it's also commonly referred to as \"mother's best friend\" and the \"never die tree\" would seem to imply that its benefits were not entirely unknown to the British.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf there is one disadvantage to moringa, it's the high nitrogen content in the leaves. Although this makes them excellent fertiliser, fresh leaves begin to break down within minutes of being picked, which means that distribution is really only viable in dehydrated form. While gardeners in northern climes have lately been experimenting with growing this hardy plant, it is most often available only as relatively expensive powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pw8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We're very lucky to have easy access to fresh moringa on Bali,\" said Australian-born chef Dom Hammond. As research and development chef at the island's iconic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpotatohead.co\u002Fseminyak\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPotato Head complex\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she has experimented widely with the use of local ingredients in plant-based fine dining. \"One amazing thing about moringa though is that apparently it doesn't lose any nutrients in the drying process, so moringa powder is equally nutritious. It seems that this plant could be a solution to food shortages and nutrition all over the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown for its innovative approach to protecting the environment, Potato Head serves \"zero-waste\" cocktails (enhanced with offcuts and trimmings from fruit used in the kitchen) with moringa salt; while the menu at the complex's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kaum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant boasts a Central Javanese soup with moringa leaves, snake gourd and fresh coconut cooked in turmeric broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's so much you can do with the leaves, but I've been experimenting with other parts of the plant too,\" Hammond said. \"Once the flowers are dried you can even fry them as a delicious alternative to mushrooms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Balinese use every part of the tree. While the leaves are most commonly boiled for soup or \u003Cem\u003Ejamu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a medicinal pick-me-up drink), the sword-like seed pods can be stir-fried or used in a stew. It's said that the root is poisonous but that a small section brewed as tea is a remedy for intestinal worms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It seems that this plant could be a solution to food shortages and nutrition all over the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd perhaps because Balinese farmers noticed that the tree seemed to be almost impregnable to parasites and insects, the bark is often chopped and mixed with uncooked rice, aromatic ginger and water to create a traditional skin-enhancing body scrub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was a kid, my grandma used to cut the moringa bark into bite-size pieces,\" Nanta told me, \"then she'd chew it into a paste and rub it over our skin.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pw6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBalinese chef I Made Tantra Wijaya recalls the same remedy. However, these days, with infinitely more finesse, he incorporates moringa into the raw-food menu at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffivelementsbali.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFivelements Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Wijaya's colleague Chef Ni Putu Yuliastuty now harvests moringa in the retreat's kitchen-garden every day and has become an expert at using it in smoothies, vegetable-based green juices, soups and salads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even though we grew up with this plant as part of our diet, I never realised it was so versatile,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's peppery so it adds good flavour to anything,\" Wijaya added, as the pair worked together in the kitchen. \"Sometimes with natural medicines we say, 'more bitter more better'. In the old days, Balinese women would wean their babies off the breast by smearing juice from moringa leaves around their nipples. Times have changed though. These days they're more likely to use toothpaste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seems that there are potentially endless uses for moringa and, while the Balinese are steadily reviving a few of the most time-proven, it's amazing to realise that the rest of the world is yet to open its eyes to the full potential of the \"tree of life\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eoffers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life though cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-22T01:46:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'","headlineShort":"The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'","image":["p0c03px1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-8.409518","longitude":"115.188919","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c03px1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"During Covid-19, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of moringa, a tree that's a highly nutritious food, medicine and magical talisman all rolled into one.","summaryShort":"It was once believed to have intense magical properties","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-20T20:25:26.117812Z","entity":"article","guid":"96f7b10c-bd70-416e-a9e5-9b8883e219ff","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-21T20:27:35.582106Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbali","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findonesia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_indonesia_bali_asia_indonesia_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b549705df8f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once part of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana, Curio Bay is home to one of the few accessible petrified forests on the planet and a geological phenomenon of international significance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETake a globe and spin it to the meridian of longitude 170° East. Run your finger down to the parallels of latitude named by seafarers during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdictionary.cambridge.org\u002Fdictionary\u002Fenglish\u002Fage-of-sail\"\u003EAge of Sail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as the \"Roaring Forties\" because of their wild, westerly winds. There you will find the islands of New Zealand, set adrift like giant jigsaw pieces in the South Pacific Ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is something deeply seductive about the remote, ragged possibilities of land's edge. I was journeying deep in New Zealand's South Island, along its brink of raw wilderness called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsouthlandnz.com\u002Fthe-catlins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECatlins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where the blustery winds and waters of Antarctica's Southern Ocean perform alchemy on this curve of Kiwi coastline. This 100km stretch is cosseted by rugged landscapes of concert hall-sized sea caves, rock stacks, blowholes, arches and coves. Its dense temperate forests are laced with walks to fairy-tale waterfalls where bellbirds, wood pigeons, fantails and grey warblers make their presence known.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin this curve of coast lies the clue to the birthplace of New Zealand. This magical landscape is home to the ancient geological phenomenon of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doc.govt.nz\u002Fparks-and-recreation\u002Fplaces-to-go\u002Fotago\u002Fplaces\u002Fcatlins-coastal-area\u002Fcurio-bay-porpoise-bay\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECurio Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the site of one of the world's finest, most accessible and rarest petrified forests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround 180 million years ago during the Jurassic Period, Curio Bay area was part of the eastern margin of the supercontinent Gondwana, connected to Australia and Antarctica while most of future New Zealand lay beneath the waves. Back then, the region was a broad forested coastal floodplain flanked by active volcanoes that continually destroyed the forests with massive sheets of volcanic debris. Covered with silt and mud, starved of oxygen and impregnated with silica from volcanic ash-filled floodwaters, the felled tree trunks eventually solidified and turned to rock through the process of petrification.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Path through beech and podocarp forest to McLean Falls, New Zealand","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.mikepole.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"Liquid full of dissolved silica would have permeated the buried wood, then solidified within the wood cells,\" explained New Zealand palaeontologist, geologist and palaeobotanist, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.mikepole.com\u002F\"\u003EDr Mike Pole\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Sometime later, the wood itself would have decayed away, and silica would have solidified in those spaces. The end result is a replacement of the wood, often right down to cell-level detail.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past 10,000 years, the sea has become an archaeologist, scraping away the layers of clay and sandstone to expose this buried forest bit by bit. What makes Curio Bay unique is the forest's horizontal position due to its felling by volcanic ash-filled floodwaters, whereas others – such as Arizona's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fpefo\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPetrified Forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Svalbard's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livescience.com\u002F52868-fossil-forests-norway.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etropical fossil forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – are vertical. It is also one of the few in the world that is accessible. According to the New Zealand Geological Survey, \"Known fossil forests of the Jurassic period are very few throughout the world and this is the most varied and remarkable of them all.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211020-the-rainbow-island-most-travellers-dont-know\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island made of edible soil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new look at the eighth world wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, while most petrified forests are far removed from the modern forests that grow near them, Curio Bay's petrified forest, which is a representation of an ancient Gondwana forest of cycads, gingkos, conifers and ferns, still has its descendants in the present-day forests found here. About 80% of New Zealand's trees, ferns and flowering plants are native having evolved in isolation for millions of years. As well as native beech forests, there are forests of unique Southern Hemisphere conifers, called podocarp, whose species include rimu, totara, matai, kahikatea and miro, whose lineage stretches back to Gondwana.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile completing her geology studies at Victoria University in Wellington, New Zealand, Dr Vanessa Thorn concluded that this fossil forest preserved in its original growth position was rare. To study the fossil forest in its original environment, where it was volcanically buried in a geological instant, gives greater insight into its natural ecosystem, as opposed to a fossil forest \u003Cem\u003Eex situ, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor out of place, when other factors come into play such as being disturbed by urban activities. When New Zealand was connected to the Antarctic margin of Gondwana, Thorn suggests the forest grew at approximately 75-78°S, \"well within the polar circle\". The ancestors of the present-day kauri and rimu trees could fluctuate quickly between long, pitch-black winters and perpetually sunny summers of continuous light. \"This is a huge difference to the present time,\" said Thorn. \"No trees are known to do this now.\" This conundrum adds to the uniqueness and scientific importance of the Curio Bay site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I journeyed through this elemental landscape, I stood on an anvil-shaped headland that jutted into the sea. Today, due to its geographic isolation and nutrient-rich waters, the Catlins coast provides an extraordinary marine wildlife sanctuary for New Zealand fur seals, southern elephant seals and the native Hookers sea lions. Endemic to this area are the world's rarest and smallest Hector's dolphins and the world's rarest penguin species, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eyellow-eyed hoiho\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Curio Bay rock platform with fossilised tree stumps and sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo my north lay the sweep of Porpoise Bay, where Hector's dolphins were catching waves with local surfers. Fanning out to the south was the rock platform of Curio Bay. As an ex-geography teacher and citizen geologist, to be in the presence of a petrified forest was like finding the holy grail. As I looked out to sea, I imagined the water rising and falling, covering the land and retreating, responding to the movement of the tectonic plates beneath as New Zealand was slowly formed. I imagined the volcanoes behind me and the fate of the young forest that was to be violently felled for the last time, and the sea rising to reclaim it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was alarmed to see a tsunami warning sign on the headland. It was one more piece of the geological puzzle, as New Zealand sits on the rim of a volcanic, geothermal and seismic zone known as the Ring of Fire that still today results in catastrophic earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, much the same as what would have happened when Curio Bay's fossil forest was formed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI followed the flax-lined track to the viewing area, joining other fossil enthusiasts on the rock platform overlooking Curio Bay. Buffeted by the onshore breeze, I caught my first glimpse of this geological phenomenon. Spread before me were hundreds of petrified stumps and horizontal trunks. A southern hemisphere Pompeii levelled by the blast and ash of erupting Gondwana volcanoes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaves shot up and fanned out over the edge of the platform as I squatted at the stumps that popped up like miniature volcanoes. Within their mini craters, I noticed a distinct change in colour. Unlike the grey sandstone of the rock platform, these craters were mud-orange with circles etched in the stone. I was looking into the past at Jurassic tree rings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI counted and traced the tree rings and ran my fingers along the trammel lines of prostrate stone trunks, sensing the texture of bark. Some trunks ran like train tracks towards the sea, others veered off, criss-crossing at angles. This ancient forest now lay splayed between marine-jewelled rockpools filled with pockets of sand and barley-coloured Neptune's Necklace (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finaturalist.nz\u002Ftaxa\u002F342806-Hormosira-banksii\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHormosira banksii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E),\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the native seaweed named after the naturalist Sir Joseph Banks who accompanied Captain Cook on his 1763 expedition to the Pacific aboard the HMS Endeavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tree rings at the core of the fossilised stump at Curio Bay","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EAt the recently opened information centre, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.curioscape.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ETumu Toka Curioscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, exhibits gave perspective and context to the formation of Curio Bay through interactive touch screens, wall-sized dioramas and an immersive film that reimagined the separation of the continents of Gondwana and the Jurassic era that was to follow. Images of early sea life that were forerunners to today's whales and dolphins swam across one of the screens, while on another, the giant, flightless and now extinct bird, the moa, and the tuatara (the only living survivor of the age of dinosaurs) flitted through the forest of Curio Bay as the volcanic eruption began. There were tactile displays of fossilised wood, some polished so you could see the tree rings, as well as fossilised silver ferns and tree roots ploughed up by local farmers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI also learned the legends of the Māori tribes who seasonally came to Curio Bay as part of their traditional food gathering. Their middens (camp remains) are still found in the Catlins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurio Bay's petrified forest was first protected in 1928 as fossil pilfering and memento hunting was taking place. In the early 1980s, with the involvement of Pole, the area was declared a Scientific Reserve, future proofing it for further research purposes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There simply aren't (or very few) other fossil forests around where you have all the stumps, from big, right down to small and tree ferns, plus the logs,\" said Pole of Curio Bay's importance on a world scale. \"In that sense, it's pretty well unique. Plus, the fact that two stone-throws away, there is a remnant of living forest, with (very broadly speaking) relatives of the fossils.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs dusk approached, another of the world's wonders trilled their arrival. Returning from their sea feeding, portly yellow-eyed hoiho flapped, preened salt from their feathers and navigated the fossil forest obstacle course on their way home to their bushy burrows. There were signs to keep clear as well as a plaque celebrating them in poetry: \"Straight from the Roaring Forties – South winds lash this bay – Where through its surf the Hoiho go – To and fro each day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI had come to the Catlins and Curio Bay to behold the sea and sand, the caves and cascades and a forest of stone at the edge of the world. And in being here, I had placed my palms on the birthplace of a country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-12T21:22:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"New Zealand's 180-million-year-old forest","headlineShort":"A relic from an ancient supercontinent","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Close up of fossilised tree stumps at Curio Bay, New Zealand","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.6615","longitude":"169.1081","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Close up of fossilised tree stumps at Curio Bay, New Zealand","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once part of the supercontinent Gondwana, Curio Bay is home to one of rarest petrified forests on the planet and a geological phenomenon of international significance.","summaryShort":"It's the site of one of the world's most accessible and rarest petrified forests","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-11T21:38:59.795641Z","entity":"article","guid":"f88c5417-81c4-4ceb-9651-c57d10b75cd1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:05.506889Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","_id":"624ec67b1f4b7b518d02d98f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sunroof was open and the tinted windows were wound down. It was the closest I could get to soaking in the surrounds of desert and sea under the cloud-sailing sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was on Indian Ocean Drive heading a couple of hours north of Perth to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westaustralianexplorer.com\u002Fstromatolites-at-lake-thetis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Thetis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on Western Australia’s wildcard Coral Coast. Like an M C Escher drawing, the landscape morphs from market gardens to limestone-spotted scrub, soundtracked with clattering windmills drawing water from the Yarragadee Aquifer formed during the Jurassic era. There were white-trunked eucalypts and punk-haired grass trees sprouting in their thousands, flocks of black cockatoos in raucous flight and, sadly, dozens of kangaroos that had ended their days as roadkill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing on a road trip along the coast of the oldest continent on Earth was bound to be steeped in mysteries. As I passed green and yellow road signs warning to keep a look out for kangaroos, emus and echidnas, there was another rare life form I was seeking an audience with – one that traces its ancestry to the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStromatolites are living fossils and the oldest living lifeforms on our planet. The name derives from the Greek, \u003Cem\u003Estroma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “mattress”, and \u003Cem\u003Elithos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “rock”. Stromatolite literally means “layered rock”. The existence of these ancient rocks extends three-quarters of the way back to the origins of the Solar System.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith a citizen scientist’s understanding, stromatolites are stony structures built by colonies of microscopic photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria. As sediment layered in shallow water, bacteria grew over it, binding the sedimentary particles and building layer upon millimetre layer until the layers became mounds. Their empire-building brought with it their most important role in Earth’s history. They breathed. Using the sun to harness energy, they produced and built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELiving stromatolites are found in only a few salty lagoons or bays on Earth. Western Australia is internationally significant for its variety of stromatolite sites, both living and fossilised. Fossils of the earliest known stromatolites, about 3.5 billion years old, are found about 1,000km north, near Marble Bar in the Pilbara region. With Earth an estimated 4.5 billion years old, it’s staggering to realise we can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time when the continents were forming. Before plants. Before dinosaurs. Before humans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn extraordinary landscape at the edge of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fight to save Australia’s ancient dinosaur trees\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia’s answer to the Northern Lights\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Indian Ocean Drive beat along. Every now and then through the scrub I caught glimpses of the blowy, white-capped turquoise water. Then snatches of the stark white, rippling sand dunes of the town of Lancelin. This is a coastline of shipwrecks and lobster shacks, of the scouring Roaring Forties, the wild westerly \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20151009-where-is-the-windiest-place-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estorm-bearing winds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whipping the latitudes 40 and 50 degrees south, and the summer-soothing winds of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFremantle Doctor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, colloquially named for the relief it brings on a searing summer’s afternoon. This is a wild, weathered coast of enchantment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was almost at Cervantes, the rock lobster capital of the coast on the northern edge of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australiascoralcoast.com\u002Fdestination\u002Fcervantes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENambung National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A couple of kilometres down a dirt road, I reached Lake Thetis, the home of the stromatolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis was small, shallow and triangular. The bush track wound through thick-leaved, blue-petalled fanflower, seed-headed rushes and rashes of red-beaded samphire. Every now and then, the local kangaroos popped their heads up to check us out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then I saw them. There were thousands of pumice-hued stromatolites quasi-camouflaged beneath the ripples, submerged like migrations of ancient turtles holding their breaths under the slightly opaque water. I was awestruck. Blocking out the peripheral surrounds and imagining the sky methane orange from volcanic activity, this is what life looked like at the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis is just more than 2m deep and double the salinity of the sea. The lake became isolated about 4,800 years ago when the sea level fell during the last major glacial epoch. Shorelines receded and coastal dunes trapped the water inland, creating the lake. These stony oxygen givers are estimated to have been growing for about 3,500 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA metal walkway braces out over the lake so you can see the stromatolites beneath. On the 1.5km walk that circumnavigates the lake, it’s look, but don’t touch, as many of the these ancient relics have been damaged by people carelessly walking on them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut there’s another side of the stromatolite family that is present on this stretch of coast. Evolutionary progress around a billion years ago started a slow segue that saw the layered stromatolites disappear as another variation emerged. They were their younger cousins: the thrombolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour’s drive south of Perth, I took the Old Coast Road into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fyalgorup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYalgorup National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westernaustralia.com\u002Fen\u002FAttraction\u002FLake_Clifton_Thrombolites\u002F56b2671b2cbcbe7073ae0f3b#\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Clifton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, home to the largest lake-dwelling thrombolites in the Southern Hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the charismatic science presenter and University of Manchester’s rock star of particle physics, Professor Brian Cox, visited the thrombolites for his documentary series, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00zdhtg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonders of the Universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his awe for the “weird, rocky blobs in the shallows” inspired many travellers to seek out Lake Clifton, to see “the first life on Earth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrombolite derives from the same root as thrombosis, which means “clot”. Thrombolites are clotted in appearance, whereas stromatolites are layered. According to the late Dr Linda Moore from the University of Western Australia, stromatolites went into decline at a time where there was an explosion of more advanced marine life. Their ecosystem became challenged as the predator amoeba and other single-celled organisims called foraminifera used their finger-like extensions to engulf stromatolites, turning their fine, layered structures into clumps. To survive, stromatolites needed highly saline water that restricted other competing sea life, whereas thrombolites adapted. They survived and prospered in an environment less salty than the sea, their clotted texture providing a home where tiny fauna could coexist. With an impressive ancient lineal ancestry, Lake Clifton’s thrombolites are estimated to be a youthful 2,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere, too, a boardwalk ventures through the reeds and over the brackish lake, where beneath, the thrombolites can be viewed. With careful watching, you can see tiny strings of oxygen rising to the water’s surface. They are breathing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?v=881210708907989\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoongar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people of this region, their Dreamtime story tells the origin of the thrombolites. With the land dry, the Noongars prayed to the sea for the water to become fresh. Their creator left the sea in the form of the serpent, Woggaal Maadjit. She pushed through the sand dunes, creating an inlet. She laid her eggs (the thrombolites) and curled her body to protect them (the sand dunes protecting the lake). The baby serpents from the eggs that hatched carved out rivers, then when dying, they tunnelled underground forming subterranean springs on their way back to the Dreamtime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese springs provided fresh water for the Noongar people. From a scientific point of view, the microbial thrombolites use sunlight to photosynthesise for energy and to precipitate calcium carbonate (limestone) from the freshwater springs that bubble from the underlying aquifer. Groundwater flow that is low in salinity and nutrients and high in alkalinity is integral to their growth and survival; any alteration challenges their existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Clifton is a fragile environment. In 2009, the thrombolites were listed as critically endangered and are now protected under the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fwater\u002Fwetlands\u002Framsar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, placing this area in the same category as the Ramsar-listed, World Heritage \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnorthernterritory.com\u002Fkakadu-and-surrounds\u002Fdestinations\u002Fkakadu-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKakadu National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia’s largest national park that preserves the greatest variety of ecosystems on the continent. Conservation actions for Lake Clifton now include the construction of the boardwalk to prevent crushing the thrombolites, monitoring water quality and levels, protecting the buffer of native vegetation that helps filter nutrients and pollutants, monitoring the health of the thrombolite community and liaising with urban and agricultural landholders to manage and protect water quality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Survival for these ancient organisms is tenuous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese stepping stones of life are in need of protection. The change in climate is affecting the lake’s salinity. Encroaching urbanisation has increased the inflow of nutrients, causing algal bloom that blocks sunlight and smothers the thrombolites. In just more than 100 years of human-induced stresors on the lake, survival of these ancient organisms is tenuous. Like the Dreamtime serpent, Woggaal Maadjit, it is up to us to protect them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-18T20:42:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Stromatolites: The Earth’s oldest living lifeforms","headlineShort":"A billion-year-old living organism","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","summaryShort":"They date three-quarters of the way back to the Solar System’s origins","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:18.964641Z","entity":"article","guid":"35fe61a4-962b-4ce3-834c-7c7218d695d8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:13.539317Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","_id":"624ec6911f4b7b68586e5429","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Above water, Turtle Island is a popular and idyllic tourist attraction. But it's what's underwater that is fascinating scientists.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe smell hit me first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe acrid punch of rotten eggs was olfactory evidence that below our boat was a forest of undersea vents tirelessly ejecting sulphurous volcanic gases, like supercharged marine hot springs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stench was all the more surprising considering how idyllic our setting was: a forest-covered volcanic island lay in the near distance, while between us and the jagged coastline, a gorgeous spill of turquoise water contrasted sharply with the moody blue of the rest of the ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was about 12km off Taiwan's north-eastern coast, circumnavigating Turtle Island (Guishan Dao in Chinese), one of Taiwan's only two active volcanos that is about 7,000 years old. That's pretty young in island years. It is a popular tourist attraction, famed for its turtle-shaped silhouette, photogenic cliffs, military tunnels and offshore dolphin watching.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it's this patch of paler water on the island's eastern side, where the turtle's head tilts upwards out of the sea, that has got both scientists and Instagrammers equally excited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENicknamed the Milky Sea, it is both a beauty and a beast. The alluring hue attracts photographers, but under the surface the water is hot and acidic, its pH value one of the lowest naturally occurring in the world's oceans –  something not yet fully understood by scientists. Dozens of hydrothermal vents, like small chimneys, called fumaroles, litter the ocean floor, pumping out toxic gases and heavy metals. Turtle Island's vents are like a natural laboratory because not only are they close to shore, they are also shallow, many lying less than 14m below the surface, making them accessible sites for study by marine scientists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Turtle Island in Taiwan with milky blue water showing location of hot springs","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The underwater landscape looks like it's from another world,\" explained Dr Mario Lebrato, who made dozens of dives here as part of a 10-year time series study (2009 to 2018) led by the Institute of Geosciences at the University of Kiel in Germany in collaboration with Taiwanese and Chinese researchers. \"There are heavy metals, it is acidic, and you mostly see a lot of bubbles mixed with a lot of noise… and there are continuous temperature changes.\" Water comes out of the vents at about 100C but cools quickly when it mixes with the surrounding seawater. \"It's quite stressful, particularly because the noise from the fumaroles can be deafening,\" he added. \"You feel in danger most of the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fcan-science-and-tourism-save-the-reef\u002F\"\u003ECan science and tourism save the reef?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe animal resistant to cancer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210324-the-odd-sea-creature-powered-by-the-sun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's odd solar-powered sea creature\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch a hostile environment is believed to be similar to the conditions when life first emerged on Earth; and studying the animals that have evolved to survive in the Milky Sea may thus teach us something about the earliest lifeforms 3.5 billion years ago. \"We will not necessarily find anything to explain the origins of life, but likely how life evolved in the first few millions of years under such extreme conditions, probably resembling a place like Turtle Island,\" explained Lebrato. The kinds of things we should be looking for, he added, are what sorts of species are able to survive here, how they are able to do so, and how low diversity is.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, what lives down here?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDirectly next to the vents, not much. Only a very specialised crab called Xenograpsus testudinatus (a particular type of vent crab) is able to survive, according to Dr Yiming Wang, who joined the study as an expert on food webs. \"No other metazoan [multi-cellular animal] life can be found in the immediate vicinity of the [active] vents due to the toxicity of the sulphur fluid plumes,\" she explained. These crabs have evolved to survive by feeding off animals such as zooplankton and fish that are unfortunate enough to drift close to the vents and perish, as well as detritus and layers of micro-organisms that coat the seabed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Xenograpsus testudinatus vent crab at Turtle Island, Taiwan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F5863375\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThey may also have \"acquired an amazing ability to utilise the sulphur bacteria [bacteria that use sulphur for energy] as a food source,\" Dr Wang added. Research in this area is so new – this species of crab was only \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F5863375\"\u003Ediscovered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2000 – that how these crabs are able to withstand such a toxic environment is still a mystery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAway from the vents though, it's a different matter entirely. Sea anemones, snails, molluscs and a rainbow of corals flourish in the vicinity. And outside the Milky Sea zone, the waters around Turtle Island are some of Taiwan's richest fishing grounds, teeming with marine life carried by the warm Kuroshio Current that flows northwards to Japan. Testament to this bounty is the prevalence of top predators – schools of dolphins. They are the main attraction of trips to the island, and indeed as my tour left the Milky Sea and coasted east, an enormous pod of spinner dolphins appeared; their grey-streaked bodies twisting, torpedoing and somersaulting around the bow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's another more pressing reason to study the animals that live around Turtle Island's hydrothermal vents: they can give us clues as to how marine ecosystems may cope with drastic changes, the kinds predicted to occur from climate change such as ocean acidification, or from major pollution events such as the dumping of mine tailings (crushed rocks and other waste products from mining that can be very toxic). Turtle Island allows us to \"study how marine life survives in extreme environments, which is very relevant to understanding the ocean's future,\" Lebrato said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter half of their longform study, something happened that would change the whole course of their research. In 2016, Taiwan was rattled by a 5.8 magnitude earthquake, while just weeks later, it was hammered by Nepartak, a Category 5 typhoon. These twin assaults triggered landslides on Turtle Island, with the rubble stoppering many of the vents. After the ocean hot springs were effectively blocked off, the seawater's chemical composition and pH drastically changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmazingly, the vent ecosystem coped remarkably well; there was no major species die off, as their 2019 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-019-53314-y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E explained. \"Marine life has a great capacity to adjust to extreme changes,\" said Lebrato. \"Our major finding was that no matter how big the disturbance, life… and the system overall managed to recover after two years to its previous state. This speaks to the resilience of marine systems despite extreme events.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Dr Mario Lebrato diving at Turtle Island, Taiwan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biorxiv.org\u002Fcontent\u002F10.1101\u002F2020.09.09.288985v1.full\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHowever, not all species were equally resilient. Crab numbers declined whereas snails and molluscs appeared to be unaffected. Specialist species, like the vent crab that scientists believe may need to supplement their diets with sulphur bacteria for nutrition, are more vulnerable than generalist species that are less fussy about their food sources, explained Wang, now the lead author of a new study on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biorxiv.org\u002Fcontent\u002F10.1101\u002F2020.09.09.288985v1.full\"\u003Ehow the typhoon and quake impacted foraging strategies for the vent species\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Her research has found that although the vent ecosystem survived the quake-typhoon disaster, the more flexible species ended up coping much better, so there will always be some winners and some losers following catastrophic events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost tourists who come here never hear about the fascinating struggle for life going on under the sea. Instead, they delight in the dolphins and take pictures of the surprising blue of the Milky Sea or the caramel-and-grey striped cliffs. Taiwan closed off the island in the 1970s for 23 years during martial law, building tunnels, watch towers and lookout points that remain to this day, and day-trippers (overnight stays are forbidden to protect the island's delicate ecosystem) come to scramble around the military installations, tour the abandoned fishing village and enjoy the forest walks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs my boat headed back to the mainland, a curtain of rain descended and the outline of Turtle Island began to merge into the mist until it too disappeared along with the secrets of life hidden beneath the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-16T23:31:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Taiwan's acidic underwater hot springs","headlineShort":"The acidic underwater world that kills","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Milky blue water around Turtle Island, Taiwan","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.8424","longitude":"121.9502","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Milky blue water around Turtle Island, Taiwan","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Above water, Turtle Island is a popular and idyllic tourist attraction. But it's what's underwater that is fascinating scientists.","summaryShort":"There's a fascinating struggle for life going on under the sea","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-15T23:31:52.810989Z","entity":"article","guid":"c7fac798-3190-4184-b893-9281586f0971","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:20.320595Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","_id":"624ec7191f4b7b684c257fda","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rocky, remote outcrop in Scotland inspired the realisation that the Earth was millions of years old – and led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution.","businessUnit":"public service","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Just a bit further, round the next bend,” my guide Jim said, as our fishing boat pitched and rolled in the choppy waters of the North Sea. It was hardly reassuring. But as we lurched from side to side, I reminded myself that the purpose of our trip was worth it. We were re-tracing a 230-year-old voyage that forever changed humanity’s perspective of the history of the Earth – and even of time itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur destination was Siccar Point. I’d visited earlier that day, but on foot. Standing on the cliffs high above the point, about an hour’s drive (and a short coastal walk) east of Edinburgh, I had felt the undeniable sense of being at a boundary. Far below, steep shards of grey rock plunged into the frothing sea. At the clifftops all around, though, the rocks took on a reddish tinge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut to really appreciate the wonder of Siccar Point, probably the most famous geological site in the world, you have to see it by boat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou ay also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161111-paint-from-ochre-rocks-in-staithes-north-yorkshire-england\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThese rocks are art’s greatest treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170721-why-you-ceynhallow-which-you-can-visit-one-day-a-year\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe abandoned island you can visit just one day a year \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20151210-were-these-remote-wild-islands-the-centre-of-everything%20\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWere these remote, wild islands the centre of everything?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuddenly Jim tapped me on the shoulder. “Up ahead,” he pointed. As we drew closer, I began to make out the outcrop’s telltale layers. Up close, the contrast between the vertical sheets of oceanic rock along the bottom of the cliff and the horizontal layers of sandstone high above were clearly visible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack in 1788, few people understood the significance of that contrast. It took an Enlightenment thinker – 62-year-old farmer James Hutton, who made this journey around Siccar Point more than two centuries ago – to realise that it proved the existence of ‘deep time’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELong before Hutton arrived, Siccar Point was a site of historical and geographic importance. More than 1,000 years earlier, the ancient Britons built a small hill fort here to warn off invaders from the north. But no-one had realised how Siccar Point illustrated the story of the Earth itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, almost everyone in 18th-Century society still believed the Earth was somewhere between 4,000 and 10,000 years old, an estimate based on literal Biblical interpretations. Hutton believed that the Earth was in fact far older. It was a realisation that would change the course of science.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many key figures of the 18th-Century Scottish Enlightenment, such as the economist Adam Smith, philosopher David Hume and poet Robert Burns, Hutton was a polymath. Born in 1726, he enrolled as a classics student at the University of Edinburgh at just 14, and by 23 he had both a medical degree from the University of Leiden in Holland and a burgeoning interest in chemistry. A couple of years later, he discovered how to isolate ammonium chloride from soot. He began a business manufacturing it for use in smelling salts, dyeing and metalworks, providing him with wealth for life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"No-one had realised how Siccar Point illustrated the story of the Earth itself","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut amidst this professional success, Hutton’s personal life had taken a turn for the worse. Perceived as a man of ‘loose character’ within upper-class Edinburgh society after fathering an illegitimate son, he retreated to a series of farms near the Scottish-English border that he had inherited from his father. This began a fascination with agriculture that he later described as “the study of my life”. Agriculture turned his ever-questioning mind to the processes that formed the Earth – and to the age of the Earth itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“One of the difficulties he faced was a lot of soil erosion,” said Colin Campbell, chief executive of research centre \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hutton.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe James Hutton Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “He was forever wondering how to keep the soil on the land and stop it disappearing off in rainstorms down the rivers. But he started to realise there was a renewal process, so while the soil would wash away, eventually new soil would form, and this cycle took large amounts of time.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton had begun to understand that the land was sculpted and shaped by gradual processes, all operating over immense timescales far longer than a few thousand years. After spending decades observing and slowly piecing together his thoughts, he presented his findings in 1785 to a small academic group of philosophers at the Royal Society of Edinburgh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was well received. But to convince a wider audience, Hutton knew he needed more evidence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe set off around Scotland seeking landscapes with clear junctions or unconformities, which he believed represented gaps in time between different geological features. The more visually striking the contrast, the easier it was to see that these features had been created separately over enormous time periods, even many millions of years apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs soon as Hutton set eyes upon Siccar Point, he knew he had found what he’d been searching for. As his companion that day, philosopher and mathematician John Playfair, later described the moment: “The mind seemed to grow giddy by looking so far back into the abyss of time.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton’s hunch was correct. Today we know the oceanic greywacke rock was formed some 435 million years ago. Over time, beds of mud on the sea floor were hardened, tilted vertical, lifted above the waves and then slowly eroded to reveal the layers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it was another 65 million years before the sandstone was formed. This happened in a vastly different climatic period, when Scotland was a tropical region lying just south of the equator. The rivers of the rainy season slowly deposited desert sands on top of the greywacke rock, over time consolidating them into stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hutton realised that the formation and movement of these rocks to create the coastline we see at Siccar Point couldn’t happen in sudden cataclysms over years or decades,” said Iain Stewart, geologist at the University of Plymouth. “He understood this concept of deep time: that you need tens of millions of years to effect big changes on the planet. And this is perfectly illustrated by the unconformity between these oceanic and terrestrial rock layers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHutton’s ideas started to become mainstream in the early 19th Century after Playfair published his 1802 book Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the Earth, summarising his friend’s theories. Included was an illustration of Siccar Point.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral decades later, the geologist Sir Charles Lyell wrote the then-groundbreaking three-volume Principles of Geology, bringing Hutton’s revolutionary ideas to the general public and proposing an indefinitely long age for the Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hutton himself, during his lifetime, was famous for giving these impenetrable talks,” Stewart said. “Much of his writing is also quite impenetrable. But to Playfair, and later Lyell, the logic of his thinking was quite compelling, and they played a key role in popularising it and getting people to accept the longevity of the Earth’s history.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you believe the Earth is only 4,000 years old, there’s not much time for natural selection and evolution","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese ideas heavily influenced a young Charles Darwin, providing much of the basis for his thinking that ultimately led to the Theory of Evolution. “If you believe the Earth is only 4,000 years old, there’s not much time for natural selection and evolution,” Campbell explained. “But if you believe the world is millions and millions of years old, it gives you all the time you need for evolution. This is why Hutton really had a massive impact in terms of people’s thinking in the centuries to come.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHutton himself never witnessed the legacy left by his ideas. He died in 1797 at the age of 70, nine years after his visit to Siccar Point. Mysteriously for one of Scotland’s greatest scientists, his death was barely commemorated and he was buried in an unmarked grave. It took another 100 years before a group of geologists raised the funds to erect a gravestone for him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody knows why this happened,” Campbell said. “There could have been a number of reasons – he wasn’t married, he did have an illegitimate son. Some people claim he drank a lot and womanised, but that may partly be a myth. Away from his scientific genius, there’s a lot of unexplained personal history with Hutton.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, within decades Hutton’s ideas had influenced popular culture and become widely accepted, even by the Church of England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of this is owed not only to Hutton, but to Siccar Point itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s such a massive, obvious contrast in terms of not just the angle but the colour of the rocks, and that leaves absolutely no room for anyone to argue about it,” Campbell said. “It so neatly summarises all of Hutton’s theories in one big way, and I think that’s one of the reasons why it’s so significant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Changed the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series looking into how a destination has made a significant impact on the entire planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis story is a part of BBC Britain – a series focused on exploring this extraordinary island, one story at a time. Readers outside of the UK can see every BBC Britain story by heading to the\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fbritain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBritain homepage\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E; you also can see our latest stories by following us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCBritain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eand\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmobile.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Britain\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Travel, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-03-13T19:45:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The cliff that changed our understanding of time","headlineShort":"The cliff that revealed Earth’s history","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rocky, remote outcrop in Scotland inspired the realisation that the Earth was millions of years old – and led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution.","summaryShort":"It changed our understanding of time","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:15:02.950276Z","entity":"article","guid":"38d1a71c-0bf6-4fd4-a369-308ce95a9f43","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:26:02.121011Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began","_id":"625f1a8a1f4b7b6847655d54","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-croke"],"bodyIntro":"South Australia's 900km Mawson Trail journeys through sites so ancient, they've revealed the imprints of animals that lived 555 million years ago – likely the earliest human ancestor.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the day-long shuttle ride from the coastal state capital of Adelaide to the start of South Australia's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nacouncil.sa.gov.au\u002F__data\u002Fassets\u002Fpdf_file\u002F0022\u002F486040\u002Fmawson.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMawson Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, we debated where the bush stopped and the outback began. But there was no doubt we were fully immersed in it when we arrived in the rust-coloured dust of Blinman, an ex-copper mining town where our group of seven friends increased the population by 20%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe were beginning a 900km, two-week mountain-bike ride through some of Australia's most epic prehistoric sites – the remains of an ancient seabed that 20th-Century explorer and geologist Douglas Mawson called \"one great outdoor museum\" due to the magnitude of easily accessible sedimentary rock and fossil exposure sites. (The trail has been named in his honour.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we left town and pedalled into the crumpled peaks and plunging gorges of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parks.sa.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fikara-flinders-ranges-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIkara – Flinders Ranges National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a classic example of what happens when two tectonic plates decide to butt heads over fault lines – the striking kaleidoscopic mountains looked familiar. Their bands of mauve ribbed with orange quartzite ridges have been widely captured by photographers; the iridescent dawn and pink dusk glows have been worshiped on the canvasses of renowned artists like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hansheysen.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHans Heysen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And the way these ranges buckled and lifted has been immortalised in the creation stories of the traditional custodians of this land – the Adnyamathanha people – for tens of thousands of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond that, we didn't have the foggiest idea what we would stumble across within our first day's 67km slog.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw8g6t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs it turns out, the 800 square kms of the Flinders Ranges tell an unparalleled tale about the dawn of life, according to world-leading palaeontologists – one that forced scientists to rethink Earth's geologic time scale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn inkling was under our noses from the get-go on every Mawson Trail signpost: the illustration of a trio of creatures that resembled a feather, a slice of citrus fruit and the shed exoskeleton of a woodlouse. These are the best-guess recreations of what life looked like 550 million years ago – soft-bodied languid blobs (ranging in size from millimetres to more than a metre) known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fucmp.berkeley.edu\u002Fvendian\u002Fediacaran.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEdiacaran Biota\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, named after the ancient hills in the Flinders Ranges, where their encrusted imprints were found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw8gjc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoon enough, we were all roasting under soaring mercury while being knocked about by endless parched rocky creeks; we could smell the whiffs of perished wild animals rotting in peace. It was mindboggling to imagine that this semi-arid, rock-littered landscape, now several hundred kilometres from the crashing waves of the ocean, was once lapped by a shallow, warm sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGranted, this wasn't exactly yesterday: it happened after the glaciation of \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-11992299\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESnowball Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" had warmed and melted, sparking a biological eruption known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nhm.ac.uk\u002Fdiscover\u002Fnews\u002F2019\u002Ffebruary\u002Fthe-cambrian-explosion-was-far-shorter-than-thought.html\"\u003ECambrian \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca target=\"_blank\"\u003EExplosion – a relatively short time period (15 to 25 million years) that was in full swing by around 521 million years ago. It was when m\u003C\u002Fa\u003Eany major animal groups alive today burst into existence, including vertebrates – and even a species that would eventually learn to ride bikes over mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe came to a collective red-faced stop to take a break and check our bearings where the Mawson route confusingly criss-crosses with several walking trails, and briefly merges with the (drivable) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.sa.gov.au\u002Fnews-hub\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002F2021\u002F12\u002Fimprovements-at-brachina-gorge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrachina Gorge Geological Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A lone ghostly gum tree stitched the raw craggy top to an intense cobalt sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw8gzw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI slowly scanned the sedimentary layers of the gorge. If you know how to read it, this repository of the planet's evolution is one of the world's best exposure sites, according to Mary Droser, professor of geology at University of California Riverside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Flinders Ranges encompasses a huge swath of time that incorporates all of the really wacky environmental things that were going on, from Snowball Earth to global warming,\" said Droser. \"We can see a 350-million-year window of time from a microbial world through to through to the early history of animals.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is because the shunting, subsiding and eroding activity of the Flinders left corridors through layers of time – revealing evidence of critical eras and events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne such chapter in Earth's story was recorded in the western ranges of the Flinders in 1946, when geologist Reg Sprigg was looking for mineral deposits in the low Ediacaran Hills. Sprigg, a keen palaeontologist who studied under Mawson, turned over some of the flaggy sandstone slabs and found an entire community of fossilised imprints, which included five new genera and species. \"He knew the age of the rocks, which were older than the Cambrian rocks [that] we know to have fossils with skeletons,\" said Droser, who is one of the world's leading researchers of Ediacaran fossils. That, she said, meant Sprigg knew these imprints were \"very, very significant\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw8h9t"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESprigg's discovery solved one of the greatest mysteries in natural science, one that had kept Charles Darwin scratching his head his entire life. When Darwin wrote On the Origin of Species in 1859, he highlighted his concern about the apparent sudden appearance of Cambrian skeletonised fossils and the challenge it presented to his theory of evolution. He wrote: \"… to the question why we do not find rich fossiliferous deposits belonging to these assumed earliest periods before the Cambrian system, I can give no satisfactory answer.\" This puzzle, known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pnas.org\u002Fcontent\u002F97\u002F13\u002F6947.full\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDarwin's Dilemma\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, flummoxed scientists for almost a century. But Sprigg found concrete evidence of the missing piece.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.awe.gov.au\u002Fparks-heritage\u002Fheritage\u002Fplaces\u002Fnational\u002Fediacara\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESome 570 to 540 million years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, these empty shapes in the rocks were occupied by the soft-bodied Ediacaran Biota creatures that were a step up from single cell organisms and a step down from animals running around eating each other – making them the earliest known complex animal life on Earth. Never before had so many been found in one place. The discovery revolutionised our understanding of how multicellular animal life evolved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past 20 years, in a collaboration with a team led by palaeontologist Jim Gehling from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samuseum.sa.gov.au\u002Fediacara-biota-research\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Australian Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Droser has excavated an unpresented 40 \"exquisitely preserved\" fossiliferous beds in the ancient seafloor at Nilpena, a privately owned sheep station in the western margins of the ranges. These findings have since become part of a 600 sq km protected area – approximately the size of Singapore – called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.sa.gov.au\u002Fnews-hub\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002F2021\u002F06\u002Fnilpena-proclaimed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENilpena-Ediacara Conservation Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Nilpena is now globally recognised as the single most important site on Earth for the Ediacaran rise of early animal life, and one of the many reasons \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F6524\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea World Heritage bid is underway for the Flinders Ranges\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2004, a new, globally recognised geological era that existed between 635 and 540 million years ago was formally created and ratified by the International Union of Geological Sciences. It was named, of course, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ldeo.columbia.edu\u002Fnode\u002F8214\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEdiacaran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw8hh1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, another missing link in the evolutionary puzzle sent revelations through the scientific community. From studying multiple miniscule fossilised burrows found in Nilpena in 2005, Droser and evolutionary biologists had long predicted that in the same period – around 555 million years ago – a more complex creature compared to other Ediacaran Biota was on the move, contracting muscles across its body to travel. In 2020, using 3D laser scanner technology, Droser and her team were able to recreate the creature – a plump, wormy blob, the size of a grain of rice. It had a notable difference compared to other lifeforms in existence at that time: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-52019468\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eit was the first animal ever to have a front and a back\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a mouth, gut and rear end – called a \"bilaterian\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis meant \u003Cem\u003EIkaria wariootia, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eas they named the blob, could possibly be the animal that ate and excreted its way on a long, transformative journey that, eventually, resulted in humans. \"It's certainly the oldest bilaterian that we know of,\" Droser said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are places that have parts of the story, and there are places with phenomenal fossils, but the Flinders has this complete packaging that is really accessible. We can go back in time and see how life unfolded. The record is unparalleled,\" Droser said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore pushing on from Brachina Gorge, we pedalled a few minutes off the mapped Mawson Trail route to see another remarkable point of interest. A bronze disc called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhawkervic.info\u002Fbunyeroo-and-brachina-gorge\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGolden Spike\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is nonchalantly nestled in the gorge's lower rib lines at Enorama Creek. Resembling a large Olympic medal, it marks the geological starting point of the Ediacaran Age – a time when the early moments of an evolutionary process gave rise to animals, the dawn of life and the journey of humanity… all waiting to be stumbled upon by seven slightly lost and oblivious mountain bikers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgeological-marvels"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-20T20:13:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Australia's trail where life began","headlineShort":"Australia's trail where life began","image":["p0bw8hqd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-31.1323","longitude":"138.3980","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bw8g6t"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180312-how-siccar-point-changed-our-understanding-of-earth-history"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"South Australia's 900km Mawson Trail journeys through sites so ancient, they've revealed the imprints of animals that lived 555 million years ago – likely the earliest human ancestor.","summaryShort":"The mountains here forced scientists to rethink Earth's geologic time scale","tag":["tag\u002Fadventure","tag\u002Fgeology","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-19T20:24:24.496066Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0dd5514-d511-47c4-99c5-b7f093794295","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-21T22:20:08.461725Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia-and-pacific_australia","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b68494b9f22","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-muckerman"],"bodyIntro":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to know just how attached the people of the coastal town of Menton are to their beloved lemon, look no further than the legend that credits its arrival on the French Riviera to Eve. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExpelled from the garden of Eden, the story goes, Eve plucked a lemon to take with her on the journey. Adam, fearing eternal condemnation, begged her to throw it away, which she obliged to do only in a spot of her choosing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd thus, she found Menton, situated on the gleaming Bay of Garavan where the Alps rescind from the water just enough to create slopes with an east-west alignment – the perfect conditions for cultivating lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the legend itself is impossible to authenticate, the symbolism of the paradisiacal lemon is embedded in the folklore of this seaside town of about 30,000 inhabitants, where the bus line is called \"Zeste\" and a lemon motif seems the logical choice for many local businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town swells to nearly double its size during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fete-du-citron.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFête du Citron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival held in February celebrating the history and culture of citrus growing in the region, most notably of the Menton lemon, an officially recognised species that differs from Corsican, Spanish or Italian varieties in terms of its mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe allure of the festival lies in its floats and sculptures, each with more than three tonnes of lemons and oranges rubber-banded to a wire framework shaped to match the year's theme. The Fête du Citron stands apart from other Carnival events in France in that municipal workers who spend most of the year maintaining city buildings are also the ones who prepare the floats and sculptures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwpkbf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETitled Operas and Dances, the 2022 edition marked a triumphant return for the festival after it was cancelled midway through in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. The Sunday parade was a jubilee of blaring marching bands, vibrant performers and six floats covered in lemons and oranges, some as tall as 10m, sculpted to represent the Samba, Can-can, Haka, Matachines, Salsa and Kathakali dance styles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs French cuisine forever changed?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the floats, performers in costume worked alongside smiling city employees in neon-green safety vests to shower a seemingly infinite amount of confetti on the 15,000 spectators, whose outstretched arms made it clear they couldn't get enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the party raged on in the valley, the terraced hillsides overlooking the town harboured a harsher reality: Menton was once the leading lemon-growing region in all of Europe, but today, only about 15 producers remain. All the fruit for the Fête du Citron's sculptures and floats must be imported from Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The annual production of Menton lemons is between 100 and 120 tonnes. In this period, we need between 150 and 180 tonnes of lemons and oranges. So, the production of Menton lemons wouldn't be enough to create the whole of the Fête du Citron,\" said Christophe Ghiena, the city's director of technical services, who added that the remaining citrus is sold at discounted prices after the festival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":["p0bwp9s3"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from its Biblical legend, the documented story of the Menton lemon's rise and fall began with its arrival from Spain in the 15th Century. The fruit quickly adapted to Menton's temperate microclimate created by the unique combination of a protective mountain range and proximity to the ocean. By the end of the 18th Century, the region was estimated to produce one million lemons annually, said David Rousseau, director of Menton's heritage department.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, the lemon was really the fortune of the city of Menton. Lemons were exported all the way to the United States, to Russia. It was a production of global scale,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a production of global scale","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon's decline began at the end of the French Revolution, when laws that had protected it against competition from other lemon-producing regions were lifted. The second blow came in the 19th Century, when the arrival of British winter tourists prompted the construction of hotels and villas on land used for citrus terraces. Finally, in the 1950s, an unusual cold snap spelled the Menton lemon's demise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was a big freeze in Menton and in France, which killed the remaining lemon trees,\" Rousseau said. \"It was in the 1980s that the lemon began to come back thanks to several producers who saw the lemon had potential and relaunched its production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwpkc0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such grower is Laurent Gannac. Originally from the southwest of France, Gannac arrived in Menton in 1988 to work as a landscaper. He said that every time he brought lemon trees to clients in the area, he'd get the same question: Is this a \u003Cem\u003EMenton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lemon?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had scientific, agricultural training and I'd never even heard of a Menton lemon,\" he said. \"So, I'd say to them 'Well, I brought it from Menton so I guess it's a Menton lemon if you want.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe soon became curious about the species and, in 1991, he planted his first Menton lemon tree. At the time, the few remaining producers questioned why a young person would be interested in a seemingly bygone product, Gannac said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gannac and his son own 750 trees on 2.5 hectares of land with the goal of reaching 1,000 trees in the next three years. Although his operation pales in comparison to the output of producers in Spain or Italy, Gannac is proud to call himself the first person in recent years to live entirely off the Menton lemon. Yet, he is one of very few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To plant 400 trees here means to start with a site that's completely abandoned, clear it, level the terraces, create irrigation reservoirs and fence it to protect from wild boars,\" he said. \"It's a lot of work, especially when you consider it takes eight years to recoup the investment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwpk9z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, Gannac says he believes the tide is changing, thanks in large part to an effort by local officials, growers and other stakeholders to achieve the European Union's Protected Geographical Indication for the Menton lemon, which it received in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he had been cultivating the Menton lemon for nearly two decades at the time, it was during this process that Gannac was confronted with the uniqueness of the species during a visit to France's National Institute for Agricultural Research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always thought the Mentonnais were a little biased about their lemon,\" he said. \"When I had the chance to go from tree to tree and taste each lemon, I realised that the real Menton lemon is actually different from others in its scent, sweetness and peel that is so mild it can be eaten.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon has also been praised for its thick skin and high essential oil content which makes it a favourite of well-known chefs like Mauro Colagreco at the helm of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirazur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMirazur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Menton restaurant ranked number one in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-awards\u002F2019\u002F6\u002F25\u002F18714984\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's 50 Best in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Menton lemon is a very rare product. It has a different flavour and texture from the lemons you find elsewhere and can even be eaten directly from the tree (as a fruit). In our five gardens, we want to keep this exceptional variety. Each year we plant new trees to perpetuate the culture,\" Colagreco said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwpk9j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen in season, the chef uses the fruit in dishes like a Menton lemon tart or a \u003Cem\u003Etourbillon \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(swirl) of fish larvae with Menton lemon and chives. He also produces a lemon confit to \"remember the flavour all year long\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EColagreco is not the only chef who has become an ambassador of the species. Luisa Delpiano-Inversi is the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pastapiemonte.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Piemonte\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Menton-based pasta producer that opened in 2013. Shortly thereafter, Delpiano-Inversi found success with her Menton lemon ravioli, an unexpected combination that she now ships across France for those who live far from the Riviera to experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This lemon resembles no other,\" she wrote in her 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.apple.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the topic. \"Its juice is intensely fragrant with a semi-acidic flavour and no bitterness.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGannac said he remembers a time when the Menton lemon was little more than a pretext used to draw in tourists during the Fête du Citron, which began in 1934. As French consumers become increasingly interested in local products, Gannac now credits the Fête with giving him an opportunity to meet his customers and speak about the uniqueness of his fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERousseau agrees that the recent editions of the Fête du Citron have helped bring more awareness to the Menton lemon. Many of this year's guided tours of lemon terraces were sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwpk8t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before. Before they came mostly to see the sculptures and attend the parade,\" he said. \"Today, they really wish to discover the city and not just come to see the floats.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the most promising result of the local effort to revitalise the species can be found in the enthusiasm of the next generation of lemon growers, among them Laetita Sepicacchi, a Menton native who began cultivating her family's property in 2015 in collaboration with the city's initiative to plant more trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, Sepicacchi was working in Paris and often travelled home to Menton to rest and recharge. It was during one of these visits that she realised the terraces of the former vineyard were the perfect place to continue the tradition of lemon cultivation. While she waits for her 35 young trees to reach maturity, Sepicacchi harvests about 100kg of fruit per year from three older trees. She sells her lemons to individuals and French and European grocers, although some of her clients have also been reputable perfume producers interested in the essential oils of her lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project allows me to rediscover and transmit a cultural heritage,\" she said. \"It's as if the roots of the trees are grounded in a heritage and an identity at a time when the world is steeped in virtual culture, which can sometimes be materialistic and individualistic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sepicacchi reflects on her ultimate goal to cultivate the Menton lemon, she imagines a day when lemon trees can once again define the local landscape and support the town's economy, maybe even resembling the French poet Stéphen Liégeard's 1887 description: \"little valleys that leave to the breeze the care to shake passers-by, the heady smell of lemon trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-29T14:20:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of France's lost lemon","headlineShort":"How a French town lost its lemons","image":["p0bwpkcq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7960375","longitude":"7.4636967","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bwpkcq"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","summaryShort":"Sadly, all its fruit must be imported from Spain","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffestivals"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T14:22:42.099931Z","entity":"article","guid":"abb3da5b-bea2-4a48-b080-e9b5e8891c25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:41:49.702209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","_id":"624ec67e1f4b7b4f712529ed","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"\"The city of 100 neighbourhoods\" has long been overlooked for the same reasons that make it so great: it's not like Paris, Lyon or Aix.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt took the TGV train no time to thrust its way out of Paris and into a realm of swelling wheat fields peppered by quaint farmhouses – the quintessential northern French terrain I had neglected since my semester on the Erasmus study abroad programme almost 20 years ago. Although I had visited in the interim, my years have been largely lost in Asia, penning guidebooks 9,600km east of the Champs Élysées.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut nostalgia haunted me through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-31833753\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench Concession in Shanghai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, down Hanoi's café-lined boulevards and even while queuing for croissants in the artisan bakeries of Hong Kong. I hankered to pick up where I'd left off, so when a French friend I'd known in Guangzhou, China, invited me to visit, the excuse to explore France's \"second-city\" belatedly fell in my lap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Come to Marseille. It's not like other bourgeois French cities. It's cool and the weather is hot,\" Pierre Picard said on the phone, referencing both its hip urban character and the 300 days of sunshine that bless the city each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the train from Paris chased the southern horizon, I thought about Marseille, which, despite giving its name to the rebel-rousing national anthem \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20151117-why-la-marseillaise-is-the-only-song-that-matters-right-now\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Marseillaise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has a reputation of being distinct from the rest of the country. It's a metropolis on the margins both geographically and culturally, its denizens composed of waves of migrants who arrived over two-and-half-millennia of recorded history, making it not just France's oldest city but its most multicultural one as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe story begins with the Greeks who, sailing from Asia Minor, recognised the strategic deep-water port and settled in what is now Le Panier overlooking the Vieux Port. The Greeks traded with the Gauls, introducing grapes and olives to the region, unwittingly laying the foundation for Provençal cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde in Marseille","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESix centuries as an independent Greek city ended when the armies of Caesar came crashing in, claiming the city for Rome in 49BC and initiating 500 years of Gallo-Roman culture. Next came the Visigoths, who invaded the city in the 5th Century; the Arabs sacked it in the ninth. Its urban population collapsed during the Great Plague of 1720 to 1721 – commemorated in a temporary exhibition at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.musee-histoire-marseille-voie-historique.fr\u002Fen\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\"\u003EMarseille History Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when I visited, with clear references to the current coronavirus pandemic. But Marseille persisted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen France's ambitions turned global, particularly after 1830 and the close of the Napoleonic wars, the southern port emerged as the Empire's chief nexus point, and Marseille enjoyed a golden age as the \"Gate of Empire\": France's colonial officers, her navies and fortune-seekers departed from the Vieux Port, first to North African and American colonies, and, after the completion of the Suez Canal in 1859, to Asia as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210613-why-the-french-rarely-say-i-love-you\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy it's hard to find love in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENapoleon's gravity-defying 325km road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this was no one-way road. Everything made landfall in Marseille: people and produce, culture and contraband. This legacy was conspicuous when I walked along the Cours Belsunce, a broad boulevard named after Bishop Henri François Xavier de Belsunce de Castelmoron, who cared for the sick during the Great Plague. Here, the smell of Arab and Turkish cuisine wafted through the air with the comforting richness of home cooking; trams made an occasional \"dang dang\" as they passed; and trackside street vendors hawked African wood carvings, colourful headscarves and Olympique de Marseille football shirts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are Chinese and Vietnamese communities in Marseille, Corsicans, Comorians and Armenians. But in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.journals.uchicago.edu\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1086\u002F716819\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWicked City: The Many Cultures of Marseille\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nicholas Hewitt writes of an unusually \"strong affinity\" with Algiers, a city \"emotionally\" closer than Paris, observing that, \"the colonisation of Algeria in 1830, which supplemented Marseille's already intimate relations with its partners, and rivals, along the northern and eastern littorals of the Mediterranean with a powerful North African dimension.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I began to get a sense of why Marseille is called \"the city of 100 neighbourhoods\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlmost 200 years on, the conception of Marseille as a North African city remains part of its popular image in France. As I walked the laundry-draped backstreets, first impressions endorsed the sentiment that the Maghrebi stamp is pronounced. At the mouth of a lane, youths congregated around speakers blasting Arabic and French rap that echoed between bakeries vending flatbreads. Men in flat caps sipped mint tea from thimble-like glasses. A block downhill, women in sublimely colourful dresses of the Sahel sold almonds from Morocco and avocados from the Ivory Coast, humming along to the latest hits from Bamako, Mali's capital. And I began to get a sense of why Marseille is called \"the city of 100 neighbourhoods\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man sitting on step in front of street art","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fbeaurivagecafe13\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWith the arrival of the railway in 1873, the journey from Paris took more than 19 hours, longer than the time it took to sail to Algiers. Now, it is just a three-hour journey, but still a world apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArriving at the Marseille-Saint-Charles station, visitors are treated to a view from its lavish, elevated forecourt that feels strikingly far-flung. Casting my eyes down an ornate 1920s staircase, my gaze followed the Boulevard d'Athènes, a sloping street where orange-tiled rooves overhang fawn stone walls. The route dipped as it met with the main thoroughfare, Rue Cannebière, before rising crescendo-like to the Notre-Dame de la Garde, a hilltop basilica crowned by a golden Virgin – the city's highest point, shining like a holy lighthouse out to sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENotwithstanding the decline in sea freight and other industries, the Vieux Port remains the city's focus, its waters dotted with yachts bobbing like swans on a lake. All roads seem to lead there, and anyone attempting to explore the city on foot inevitably ends up in one of the waterfront brassieres. In my case, it was the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fbeaurivagecafe13\u002F\"\u003EBeau Rivage Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where, over late-afternoon \u003Cem\u003Epastis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, I attempted to absorb the scene: the castle-like, 1,500-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marseille-tourisme.com\u002Fen\u002Fdiscover-marseille\u002Fculture-heritage\u002Fthe-abbey-of-saint-victor\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbbaye St-Victor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Marseille's oldest church; and the swanky \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarseille.intercontinental.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Dieu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that, during the plague, served as a \u003Cem\u003Elazaretto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an isolation hospital for sailors to quarantine in. Now the InterContinental Hotel Marseille, guests enjoy a five-star spectacle over the water, which to my mind rivals the great harbours of the world, Hong Kong or Sydney, and one sorely overlooked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the detractors, Marseille doesn't fulfil their \"Parisian\" vision of France in the ways that regal Lyon, its closest rival to second-city status, does; or by fans of neighbouring Aix-en-Provence, whose chic, conservative denizens have helped it earn \"the 21st arrondissement of Paris\" moniker.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Colourful house exteriors along alleyway, Marseille","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETo some, Marseille is a city of vice, an image traded by authors like Jean-Claude Izzo in novels like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.allenandunwin.com\u002Fbrowse\u002Fbooks\u002Ffiction\u002FTotal-Chaos-Jean-Claude-Izzo-9781787702073\"\u003ETotal Chaos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and recurrent in film and television as a crime-subgenre dubbed \"Marseille Noir\". Most of these disparaging opinions are outmoded, belonging to an economic slump in the late 20th Century that was captured in celluloid in the Marseille Noir classic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0073018\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrench Connection II\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut the grubby, traffic-flanked Vieux Port of 1975 has little in common with the vibrant scene that confronted me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It wasn't until the city was made the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fenvironment\u002Feuropeangreencapital\u002F2013-capital-of-culture-marseille\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Capital of Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2013 that they really cleaned up the Vieux Port,\" explained Marie Picard, Pierre's sister. \"Now we have somewhere to enjoy on foot.\" The year-long EU designation not only gave Marseille the chance to promote its uniquely rich Mediterranean culture, but also prompted authorities to get the old port in order. The quay and surrounding commercial streets were duly pedestrianised and orientated to tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnderlining Marseille's many civic improvements, which include a new tramway completed in 2007, are the Parisians who, like Pierre and Marie, have dared break with their tribe to move south, despite a historical rivalry that goes back centuries and still plays out in the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymail.co.uk\u002Fsport\u002Ffootball\u002Farticle-5422989\u002FPSG-v-Marseille-did-rivalry-fierce.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Classique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" whenever Paris Saint-Germain and Olympique de Marseille meet on the pitch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I moved from Paris 10 years ago,\" said Marie, citing such obvious draws as affordable rent and sunshine as the principal reasons for her move, as well as the less obvious lure of work. \"I'm a digital content producer. I was worried about leaving Paris but the TGV means it's only three hours away if I need to go back for a meeting.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo escape the heat, I headed to the Plage des Catalans. Whizzing on an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intelligenttransport.com\u002Ftransport-news\u002F90070\u002Fmarseille-awards-contracts-to-three-e-scooter-operators\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ee-scooter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I navigated the imposing Fort St-Nicolas on the southside of the Vieux Port. In the late-afternoon sun, the beach was drenched in an otherworldly amber hue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Crowds of holiday makers on coast, Marseille, France","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI walked past a group playing volleyball, a DJ spun records, locals sunbathed and gossiped and the city's \u003Cem\u003Ebon enfant \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– \"good natured\" – vibe was tangible. It was here I belatedly noticed Marseille's \"Frenchness\", so distracting had the city's cosmopolitan charms been. It reminded me of Shanghai, Liverpool or New York, those great port cities whose allegiance is ever caught between the state and the sea. But on that warm summer's day, amidst the sun worshippers and seaside salsa dances, those allegiances felt reconciled.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI considered one of Marie's lunchtime quips: \"If you come to France and you don't come to Marseille you won't see France.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe had a point: the city is just another expression of a country more diverse and culturally intricate than it often likes to admit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-09T10:58:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Marseille: France's 'good natured' city","headlineShort":"A French city that doesn't feel French","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.296398","longitude":"5.370000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"\"The city of 100 neighbourhoods\" has long been overlooked for the same reasons that make it so great: it's not like Paris, Lyon or Aix.","summaryShort":"What makes France's \"second city\" so distinct?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-08T21:59:20.945868Z","entity":"article","guid":"9fd5f4da-ac5c-44e7-808a-522ce6ce4039","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:33.141883Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b4f47177b96","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Built by the Romans and considered one of Britain's most \"outrageous\" roads, it's filled with sharp hairpin turns and is the width of a bridleway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf I'd steered hard around the hairpin bend, I'd have driven straight into a frightening gradient of crumbling road, rearing up like a tidal wave in front of me. Rainwater poured down the middle of the rough carriageway like a mountain stream. I reached to change gear and realised I was already in first. Just then, a nonchalant sheep strolled out in front of me, causing me to slam on the brakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcumbria.com\u002Fwc\u002Fhardknott-pass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHardknott Pass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in England's north-west Lake District is, technically, the most direct route from the central Lake District to West Cumbria, but it is so steep and difficult that outsiders are often warned to take hour-long detours to avoid braving its twisting, single-track slalom up a mountainside. It was described as one of Britain's \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fuk-news\u002Fthe-northerner\u002F2014\u002Fjul\u002F15\u002Fin-praise-of-britains-two-most-outrageous-roads-wrynose-and-hardknott-passes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost outrageous roads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" by The Guardian, and locals are full of tales of cars suffering brake failures, drivers freezing with the challenge and of skids and misjudgements causing cars to plunge off the narrow carriageway. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis leaves some asking: should this extraordinary 13-mile stretch between the towns of Boot and Ambleside be closed to traffic – or celebrated as a national treasure?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, visitors set off westwards from genteel tearooms in the tourist hub of Ambleside, hoping for a pretty potter through the England's largest national park, the Unesco-inscribed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lakedistrict.gov.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake District\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Instead, they run straight into the most challenging stretch of road available to British drivers; a sequence of steep switchbacks climbing a bleak mountainside. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAppropriately you'll find this \"most outrageous\" of roads snaking around England's highest peak (Scafell Pike) and deepest lake (Wastwater) in the mountainous wild west of the Lake District. Many consider Hardknott a hazard. \"We put guests off from coming over Hardknott Pass,\" said local holiday-home owner Greg Poole, matter-of-factly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iamroadsmart.com\u002F\"\u003EInstitute of Advanced Motorists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E' spokeswoman Heather Butcher said: \"Depending on the rider or driver's experience, it could be one to avoid. We don't recommend putting yourself or others in danger… You can read reviews online from various sources confirming that it's a challenging road, a thrill, etcetera, but we would advise all riders and drivers to approach roads like this with caution.\" And Neil Graham, a communications officer for the Cumbria Police added, \"People shouldn't seek out the road to challenge themselves.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, to others, this daunting route is a landmark to be celebrated; a challenge to be attempted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOwner of nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.muncaster.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuncaster Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Peter Frost-Pennington, has driven Hardknott hundreds of times and calls it \"one of the most exciting and incredible roads to drive, cycle or walk in the whole world. It should be on everyone's bucket lists.\" And while Poole may warn his holiday guests away, he chooses to take the route himself, saying, \"I love the drive. It's exciting, challenging, beautiful, sometimes scary but never boring – you won't fall asleep at the wheel for sure.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat is this notorious stretch actually like to drive? As Hardknott and its preamble, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcumbria.com\u002Famb\u002Fwrynose-pass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWrynose Pass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, climb from the gentle lakeside Greenburn Beck, signs warn drivers: \"Narrow road. Severe bends\". But if you've come this far, there's no alternative route or turning back. You're about to face a sequence of ridiculous hairpins the width of a bridleway, a constantly disintegrating road surface and unguarded drops plummeting hundreds of feet down the mountainside towards rough moorland, rocks and scree. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoute E69: Norway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E'Captain' Gallagher: The legend of Ireland's 'Highwaymen'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210510-the-worlds-loneliest-bus-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's lonelinest bus route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHardknott's hardest section, towards the top, lasts less than a couple of miles but rises 1,037ft. A few hairpins reach 25% gradient, and the final cliff is a breath-taking 33%. The \"Unsuitable for caravans\" sign is a humorous understatement. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese gradients are steeper than most alpine routes and exceed the famous extremes of the Tour de France, Giro d'Italia and Europe's other grand cycling tours. The fitness of the few elite cyclists who manage to scale the pass is put into perspective by a 2019 Eurosport documentary called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eurosport.com\u002Fcycling\u002Fcycling-feature-why-hardknott-pass-was-the-ultimate-test-for-the-average-man_sto7718062\u002Fstory.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's Toughest Climb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. An \"average\" cyclist was given a strict six-week expert training regime as preparation for tackling Hardknott. To the programme maker's horror, he still failed to make it up the pass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy first experience of the Hardknott Pass was as a passenger alongside a super-confident team from the Royal Air Force. We were heading for Scafell Pike as part of the Three Peaks Challenge, in which participants attempt to climb the highest peaks in England, Scotland and Wales in 24 hours. Like many unsuspecting tourists, we were shocked to discover the true nature of the road, and we hit the hairpins amid torrents of water in the dark early hours of a stormy morning. The driving officer struggled to cope and the engine screamed as the wheels repeatedly lost traction. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe made it up, amid a tsunami of special force swear words. The driver stayed in the car to recover while we scaled the peak. Afterwards, he took the longer route back. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy second visit was with an elderly businessman in his proud new Jaguar. I'd warned him about the descent but was overruled. Surely, he stated, his gleaming Jag could cope with a little Cumbrian slope. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin seconds of cresting the brim of the pass, however, he was tackling a sort of road he had never seen before. His wide, softly sprung luxury saloon was completely inappropriate. Red-faced and gasping, he pulled onto a rocky verge to regain breath. We proceeded to the foot of the hill at single-digit miles per hour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen a few years ago, I set out to tackle the pass in my own car – a humble 20-year-old Volvo. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYes, at times it felt like I might have toppled over backwards, but if your car is 100%, the weather is fine and you get your revs and gearchanges right, I found it to be completely possible. (My main tip: even when the road seems to rise like a wave in front of you, don't hesitate. A missed gear change can have you rolling back off the carriageway.) \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this age of smart motorways and self-driving cars, for driving-lovers like myself, Hardknott represents a flashback to a time when you had to concentrate on the road as if your life depended on it (it does) and wonder if your car will make it (it might not). Unlike the vast majority of Britain's roads, this short track offers a memorable driving experience every time. It's England's ultimate motoring anachronism. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, the little road has a long, colourful history. The original route was laid by the Romans around 110 AD and led to a dramatic stronghold at the top of the pass known today as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\u002Fhardknott-roman-fort\u002F?utm_source=Google%20Business&utm_campaign=Local%20Listings&utm_medium=Google%20Business%20Profiles&utm_content=hardknott%20roman%20fort&utm_source=Google%20Business&utm_campaign=Local%20Listings&utm_medium=Google%20Business%20Profiles&utm_content=hardknott%20roman%20fort\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHardknott Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The remaining stone walls of the fortress are an English Heritage site with sweeping views across the fells and are all that's left of one of the more remote Roman outposts in Britain. After the Romans left in the 5th Century, the road lingered on as an unpaved horse and mule route until the local hoteliers association paid for improvements to the road in the 1880s, hoping to encourage scenic horse and carriage trips. A few years later, the scheme was abandoned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't until 1913 that the first motor vehicles drove over the pass, from the easier Eskdale side. Later, Hardknott's steep gradient was used to test tanks during World War Two. Their steel tracks chewed up the road so much that it had to be rebuilt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the road is best tackled on a sunny day – but that's rare in the West Cumbrian fells. An average day features horizontal rain, buffeting side winds and slippery surfaces. On a bad day, the road becomes impassable. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe driver's reward for all that steering and gear changing, however, is access to an untouched mountain landscape of rare, wild beauty. The waterfalls, sheer rock faces and sudden stunning views across the fells must be much as the Romans saw them. Cliffs soar into the clouds on either side while hardy sheep wander confidently across the road. They don't worry about the traffic. After all, cars are the outsiders here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-04T22:58:28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road","headlineShort":"The UK's most challenging road?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"54.4027","longitude":"3.2054","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Built by the Romans and considered one of Britain's most \"outrageous\" roads, it's filled with sharp hairpin turns and is the width of a bridleway.","summaryShort":"Should this extraordinary pass be closed or treated as a national treasure?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T23:02:09.189768Z","entity":"article","guid":"814408e1-652e-47cc-9f70-37d8c23f6fba","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:00.431776Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","_id":"625dc73e1f4b7b7001619e34","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fchrissie-mcclatchie"],"bodyIntro":"Showcasing eight towns and villages, the stunning road brings a different kind of sunshine to the French Riviera, when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the snow-capped peaks of the Maritime Alps faded into the distance behind me, I followed my guide \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaddypolomeni.com\u002Fen\u002Fbienvenue-english\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaddy Polomeni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E further along a corridor of golden mimosa blossoms as we hiked towards an abandoned quarry in the Massif de l'Esterel mountain range. Although it was the latter end of the flowering season, there was still an abundance of blooms along this trail, unlike many of the other mimosa circuits higher up in the peaks behind us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe correct term for each bud is \u003Cem\u003Eglomerulus,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E but \"pom-poms\", as Polomeni calls them, felt a more fitting name for the fluffy, featherlight balls that filled the late February air with the sweet aroma of marzipan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel like spring is already here,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese rocky ranges behind Mandelieu-La Napoule, the coastal town west of Cannes in southern France, are home to Europe's largest mimosa forest. For six years, Polomeni has been one of the few registered guides leading small groups along walking trails that criss-cross this dry Mediterranean landscape. Along the way, she's become a point of reference for travellers like me who are following \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froutedumimosa.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Route du Mimosa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 130km road trip that starts in Bormes-les-Mimosas, 35km west of Saint-Tropez, and finishes in the perfume-scented town of Grasse in the Cannes hinterland, an itinerary best travelled between January and March when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as wattle in its native south-eastern Australia, mimosa was introduced to the French Riviera by British aristocrats who flocked to its resort towns in search of winter sunshine. Making its first appearance around 1880, the \u003Cem\u003EAcacia dealbata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or silver wattle) they brought in their luggage quickly took to the acidic soils of the French region's mountainous western terrain. \"Having found the same growing conditions as back in Australia, the plant spread,\" horticulturist Julien Cavatore told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mimosa-cavatore.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPépinières Cavatore\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his family nursery in Bormes-les-Mimosas, stocks more than 180 species of the plant; it has been recognised as one of the country's finest collections by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ccvs-france.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConservatoire des Collections Végétales Spécialisées\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a French association modelled on Britain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.plantheritage.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlant Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the things I love most about mimosa is that it blooms during a period of the year when you don't get any other flowers,\" Cavatore said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Route du Mimosa was created in 2002 along existing secondary roads, and while I was surprised to find that it isn't obviously signposted, a brochure is available in local tourist offices (and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froutedumimosa.com\u002Finfos-pratiques\u002Fbrochure\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) that serves as a guide to the various waypoints and activities. Cavatore said that people often ask why there are not \"huge forests of mimosa\" as they head off from Bormes-les-Mimosas – in fact, for much of the early stages of the drive, the landscape is the dusty greens and winter browns typical of the season. As he explained, however, the route is more about a theme, a showcase of eight towns and villages that have each developed cultural ties to a plant that has become a symbol of winter on the French Riviera.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bzj58h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom shady Bormes-les-Mimosas, where French presidents have vacationed since Charles de Gaulle first visited in 1968, the route starts along the coastal D559, a two-lane road heavy with holidaymakers in search of clean air and sandy beaches in summer but which, at this time of the year, flows freely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBypassing Saint-Tropez for Sainte-Maxime (its low-key but charming neighbour across the bay), the D559 continues past pétanque courts and waterfront restaurants towards the popular resort town of Saint-Raphaël. The 30km stretch between Saint-Raphaël and Mandelieu-La Napoule, where majestic red ochre rocks tumble into the sparkling Mediterranean Sea below, is one to savour: known as the Corniche d'Or, the road mimics the twists and turns of the craggy coastline before opening out onto the Bay of Cannes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon\"\u003EThe return of France's lost lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city\"\u003EMarseille: France's 'good natured' city\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road\"\u003EThe Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMandelieu-La Napoule is the self-styled mimosa capital – since 1931 it has played host to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mandelieu.fr\u002Factualites-mandelieu\u002Fmanifestations-mandelieu_fete_du_mimosa.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Fête du Mimosa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 10-day programme of parades and street entertainment held each February. Although the 2022 event was cancelled due to the pandemic, the town is still the perfect stop for an exquisite mimosa-infused pause. In the waterfront neighbourhood of La Napoule, Mathieu Marchand, executive pastry chef at Riviera institution \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.relaischateaux.com\u002Fus\u002Ffrance\u002Foasis-alpes-maritimes-la-napoule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL'Oasis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, first drew inspiration from the colourful blooms surrounding his kitchen last year, creating a mimosa-flavoured macaron that became a menu mainstay during the 2021 flowering period.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis year, he's added a delicate cake to the seasonal selection. \"Starting with a cheesecake base, I've placed a caramelised peanut inside and finished with a white chocolate ganache,\" he said. Less than 2g of the distilled flower essence is used in each individual pastry, yet the bitter-almond and orange-blossom flavours of mimosa are distinct. \"Next year, another creation that shows the many possibilities of mimosa will be unveiled,\" he promised.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bzj644"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe array of artisanal products that highlight the plant's attributes as a culinary ingredient is steadily increasing. In Mandelieu-La Napoule's tourist office, a display of locally made mimosa products includes chocolates, honey and even a vodka-based liquor called Mimocello.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the profession of \u003Cem\u003Emimosistes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– or the people who cultivate mimosa – is at risk of disappearing. At the start of the 20th Century, there were 80 growers working out of Le Capitou, Mandelieu's oldest neighbourhood. In the 1920s, whole railroad cars of cut mimosa would leave Cannes and La Napoule for flower markets as far away as Moscow and London, the precious blooms placed protectively inside baskets woven from cane and willow, an entire artform in themselves. Today, only a handful of mimosistes remain, mostly growing the flowers in the land around the Massif du Tanneron, the mountain range between Mandelieu, Tanneron and Pégomas known as the 'Golden Triangle' of mimosa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a quiet cul-de-sac in Pégomas, a village dating from the 16th Century just inland from Mandelieu, I found Cécile Reynaud at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flacollinedesmimosas.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Colline des Mimosas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, her family's horticultural business. She was busy wrapping bouquets laden with freshly cut branches for a steady stream of passing customers. Reynaud is a third-generation mimosiste\u003Cem\u003E:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E her grandmother first planted mimosa to sell to perfumeries in the 1930s. Today, their market is cut flowers, supplying more than 100,000 bouquets a year to a mix of individuals and professionals, as well as seasonal festivals. \"I'm so infused in mimosa that during the season I stop being able to smell it,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMimosistes like Reynaud are masters of their art, their ability to manipulate the plant developed over a lifetime of harvests. Nowhere is this more evident than in the \u003Cem\u003Eforcerie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a temperature-controlled room where branches of yet-to-open buds are \"forced\" into flowering in hot, humid conditions, for anywhere between six and 36 hours. The technique extends both the life of the cut flowers by up to 10 days and the growing season. The talent of the mimosiste is knowing exactly how long to leave the flowers in the \u003Cem\u003Eforcerie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – \"if we leave it too long, there is a point of no return and the flowers fade,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bzj6wf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom Pégomas, I drove the short distance through residential neighbourhoods towards Grasse and the rose, iris and jasmine gardens that supply perfume houses like Chanel and Dior with their raw product. Much of the mimosa currently found in perfumery is synthetic, since its pom-poms are so lightweight that the quantity required to extract enough essence is considered too labour-intensive to use its true form. But there are hopeful signs this is changing: Reynaud was preparing for a visit the next day from a \"\u003Cem\u003Egrand nez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" – a perfumer recognised for their ability to compose scents. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now that Grasse's perfume-making techniques have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fthe-skills-related-to-perfume-in-pays-de-grasse-the-cultivation-of-perfume-plants-the-knowledge-and-processing-of-natural-raw-materials-and-the-art-of-perfume-composition-01207\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, there's an increased demand for the area's other flora,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShould that be the case, then Grasse's place as the final stop on this floral route is set to acquire an even greater significance. From start to finish, La Route du Mimosa can easily be covered in a day, but two days (the average time most people take, Polomeni told me) is better. Anything more is a bonus, because the real delights of this southern French road trip are found off the main roads and outside of the car – in the forests, greenhouses and kitchens where these tiny rays of winter sunshine have firmly taken root.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route-7"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-19T20:16:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"France's 130km Mimosa Route","headlineShort":"A stunning drive in the French Riviera","image":["p0bzj3z1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.5334394","longitude":"6.8829637","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bzj3z1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220208-marseille-frances-good-natured-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Showcasing eight towns and villages, the stunning road brings a different kind of sunshine to the French Riviera, when the region breaks out in giant brushstrokes of rich yellow.","summaryShort":"The 130km road is a showcase of eight towns and villages","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-18T20:16:44.832388Z","entity":"article","guid":"67038bfd-6c32-4b35-83c9-83064120c595","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-19T13:59:23.461015Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"624ec6e21f4b7b4fc9065f08","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder","_id":"624ec6781f4b7b4f731d3f19","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On the remote Purple Sands Beach, the sand can appear in a spectrum of chromatic hues, ranging from lavender to magenta and sometimes even pink.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe last time Candice LaFaver spotted the purple grains of sand along the shoreline at Candle Lake Provincial Park was in 2018.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat July, she and her family had taken out their boat for a leisurely summertime cruise on this freshwater lake located in northern Saskatchewan when she glanced over to a deserted stretch of beach and couldn’t believe what she saw.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENear the lake’s north-eastern edge, an area that can only be reached by boat, LaFaver noticed a thick stripe of vibrantly coloured sand wrapping across the shoreline like a ribbon on top of a present.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I hadn’t seen that big of a ribbon in a long time,” recalled LaFaver, who works as the park manager for this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tourismsaskatchewan.com\u002Fprovincialpark\u002F3039\u002Fcandle-lake-provincial-park\"\u003Egovernment-protected landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that spans 78 sq km and has become a recreational haven for outdoor enthusiasts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Some years you can’t see it until you’re on it. Other years, just a band of it appears,” she said. This particular band, she added, measured about 60cm wide and spanned the entire length of the beach, and was one of the largest she had ever seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200121-the-birthplace-of-canadas-mountain-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Swiss village lost in Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170523-a-tempestuous-isle-of-1000-shipwrecks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tempestuous isle of 1,000 shipwrecks \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's toughest highway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor 25 years, LaFaver has lived in the tiny resort village of Candle Lake, a community of 850 full-time residents that falls within the provincial park boundary lines. She’s seen how the hue and length of the coloured sand fluctuates with the currents and the seasons. So, on that afternoon, knowing that next year it may not appear in the same illuminating fashion, or at all, LaFaver and her family seized their opportunity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We got off the boat and hung out there the whole day,” she said. “I didn’t know when I would get to see it that distinct along the whole shore [again].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnown simply as “Purple Sands Beach”, this secluded expanse of land has earned a reputation around Canada for its awe-inspiring geological feature. The grains of sand can appear in a spectrum of chromatic hues, ranging from lavender to magenta and sometimes even pink. Vivid particles can appear smeared down the shore like an artist’s brushstroke, scattered in clusters across rocks and rippled beneath the water’s surface in the lake’s shallow bays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeeing this natural phenomenon in person has become a pilgrimage for naturalists, geological fanatics and out-of-town visitors, who arrive year-round with hopes of catching a glimpse before it's washed away or disappears underneath snowfall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Well, you don’t think it’s real,” said Debbie Hunter, 64, a Candle Lake local who lives near Minowukaw Beach, one of the park’s designated campgrounds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s hard to believe that there’s purple sand. It’s just – it’s bizarre, really.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a strong windstorm or an occurrence of large wave breaks, Hunter has seen traces of the purple sand displaced all around this landscape that shares a border with provincial forestland. Some residents have even reported seeing the coloured grains along the shores of Torch Lake, a smaller body of water that feeds into Candle Lake, but not in the same copious amount or vibrancy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWherever it is, Hunter said, “it’s hard to believe that there’s purple sand. It’s just – it’s bizarre, really.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the imagery of purple sand may appear like something from a fairy tale, there is a geological explanation behind it. According to Kevin Ansdell, professor of geology at the University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon, all beaches attribute their colouring to the minerals, rocks and shells that comprise their various sand particles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“If you go around the world, there’s all sorts of different coloured beaches,” explained Ansdell, whose work includes public outreach and education about the diversity of geological landscapes within Saskatchewan. “Obviously, the most common are the typical white sands that you think about. Those are typically made of lots of rounded grains of quartz.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the second-most common mineral found on Earth, quartz is the reason why so many shorelines have white sand, he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, white is not the only hue to decorate a coastline. Iceland and Hawaii, for example, each have a collection of black-sand beaches, which owe their dark and moody tones to volcanic lava rock. And there are other examples around the world where minerals and sediment have transformed bodies of water into surreal-looking landscapes. Peyto Lake in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fab\u002Fbanff\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBanff National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Alberta owes its turquoise colour to glacial sediments suspended in its water; while the Yellow River in western China, which originates in the province of Qinghai, has accumulated so much silt and sediment that the river remains a constant shade of blonde.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe environment of northern Saskatchewan, however, owes its colouring to a mineral that has been discovered all around the world but is found in large quantities across northern Canada. “With the purple-sand beaches, of which Candle Lake is one example,” Ansdell said, “the most likely mineral is the mineral called garnet.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor thousands of years, this colourful and resistant mineral, one that comes in a variety of shades but which is mostly seen as dark red, has been discovered in rocks across the Canadian Shield, a large section of the North American continent that encompasses a majority of the northern half of Canada. This mineral-rich landmass extends from Labrador in the east to Manitoba in the west and all the way north into the Northwest Territories, including most of northern Saskatchewan. Because of this landscape’s vast size and ancient history, the resources found in the Canadian Shield have become valuable components of the nation’s economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In the Canadian Shield overall, there’s lots of different mineral deposits,” said Ansdell, of the gold, copper, nickel and even diamonds that are often uncovered, in addition to minerals like garnet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFound inside rocks that date back more than a billion years, garnet is created during metamorphism, a chemical and mineralogical process that happens when rocks become buried deep inside the Earth’s crust as its tectonic plates shift. Through various processes, these rocks change their internal compositions to adjust to higher pressures and temperatures, Ansdell explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Obviously if you’ve got garnet in the sands, the garnet must have come from somewhere,” he said. “It’s almost certainly the metamorphosed rocks in northern Saskatchewan.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese rocks were then transported across the province during the most recent Ice Age, which ended approximately 12,000 years ago, when large sheets of ice slid across exposed sections of the Canadian Shield, scattering their contents in places like Candle Lake. Over time, the rocks were broken down and carried downstream by fresh water sources, reworked by the currents and eventually collected in one place, said Ansdell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the residents of Candle Lake may not know all the scientific details about how its most famous beach receives its alluring sparkle, they do remember how it felt when they saw it for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was a just kid, probably just 14,” recalled Hunter, about her first encounter with the purple sand more than 50 years ago. Hunter grew up in the nearby city of Prince Albert and began visiting the lake before there was a paved highway. “If you had rain or any miserable weather… yikes,” she joked, about making the 80km journey to visit her husband’s family who owned a cabin in the Candle Lake community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s a small-knit community and they seem to look out after each other","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack then, mostly avid fisherman and hunters were drawn to the lake’s clear water that is home to many fish species, including the walleye, pike, perch, burbot, whitefish and sucker, and its abundant wildlife, like elk, bear, wolves and deer. After a new highway was constructed in the mid-1970s, which connected this distant village to the rest of the province, word spread and Candle Lake quickly became a year-round destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1986, the government of Canada established it as a provincial park, to “protect the fringe of the northern forest and to offer a variety of recreational opportunities in all seasons.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many environments in the upper reaches of the northern hemisphere, Candle Lake is one of extremes. During the winter months, its glassy surface transforms into a barren ice field. Pickup trucks and ice shacks dot the horizon and provide shelter for the brave fishermen who, even when temperatures drop to -30C, drill holes into this dense, icy covering to catch their dinner. Locals stay active by playing in the town’s curling league and shovel snow for their neighbours who may need extra help, said Hunter, who serves as a volunteer fire fighter and first responder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The people are so friendly,” she said. “It’s a small-knit community and they seem to look out after each other.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy late April, longer days and warmer temperatures help the lake thaw out, and by July, families start to arrive by the carload to celebrate Canada Day, the busiest time of year, when close to 15,000 visitors pack the shoreline to celebrate the national holiday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENo matter what time of the year it is, Purple Sands Beach and the beauty of this rugged landscape attracts people from around the world, and some of its biggest admirers plan to stay for a while.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I’ve done a lot of travelling, but work has kept me here and I’m very content with that,” said LaFaver. “[Candle Lake] is a beautiful place to work and live.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECORRECTION\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E: A previous version of this story referred to tides impacting the hue and amount of purple sand. However, since there will not be observable tides on a lake of this size, the story has been updated to use the proper term of currents.   \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-02-11T20:49:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Canada’s little-known geological wonder","headlineShort":"Canada's secret beach with purple sand","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.7517","longitude":"-105.2497","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On the remote Purple Sands Beach, the sand can appear in a spectrum of chromatic hues, ranging from lavender to magenta and sometimes even pink.","summaryShort":"It’s become a pilgrimage for naturalists and geologists and out-of-town visitors","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:44:21.319961Z","entity":"article","guid":"d37169e9-cb80-47a8-8b10-633405e748b9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:26:31.141348Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village","_id":"624ec6861f4b7b518d02d9a3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Canada’s 137km Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway is a vital new lifeline across unremittingly spartan tundra, but also a window on an almost-forgotten way of indigenous life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne million antlers were set against the northern sky. Or so it looked from the vantage point of the revving snowmobile as it lurched across the tundra basin. Around 3,000 wild reindeer had bunched together on the horizon, their branched horns seamlessly melding with an endless swathe of skeletal willow and black spruce. We were 60km south of the Arctic Ocean in the remote northern reaches of Canada’s Northwest Territories, and left to Mother Nature it was a spectacle unaffected by man for millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETwo bushy foxes bounded across the permafrost, scattering the herd downhill past shoreline lichen onto a frozen lake ahead. The hush of the Arctic winter broken, the herd became a flurry of tawny hides and hooves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"That’s the sound of the tundra","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Listen,” said Inuvialuit (Western Canadian Inuit) guide Noel Cockney softly, as he stopped his Ski-Doo and gestured across the ice. It was -25C and his voice barely pierced his thick protective face mask. “When the reindeer run, it sounds like rain on snow. That’s the sound of the tundra.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHidden deep at the top of the country’s largely unexplored Arctic perimeter, Canada’s largest reindeer herd have long lived in solitude. Every spring, the scruffy animals migrate west to their calving grounds on nearby Richards Island to rear their young, but these days they have more to contend with than just wily foxes and wolf packs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey now have to deal with the arrival of man.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170726-the-people-who-want-to-buy-a-railroad\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe people who want to buy a railroad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170502-a-518km-ice-road-across-the-tundra\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ice road mapped by dog sled\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway’s icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor the last two millennia, the only people who have been able to understand and adapt to this land are the Inuvialuit, the custodians of the north who live in settlements across the Mackenzie Delta, where Canada’s longest river system empties into the Arctic Ocean. Numbering around 5,700, the Inuvialuit have maintained a lifestyle as traditional as it gets in the Americas. In step with the seasons, they are bound to the land, trapping Arctic hare, fox and lynx for meat and fur in the colder months; in summer they harvest beluga whales during sanctioned hunts along the Tuktoyaktuk coast to provide the sustenance they need to get through the long winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe opening of the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway in November 2017 has changed everything for this frozen wilderness. Built at a cost of CAD$300 million and nicknamed the Arctic Ice Road, the 137km-long, two-lane gravel highway is the first all-weather road to Canada’s Arctic Coast, cleaving this isolated tract of tundra in two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe highway could also be described as the world’s toughest. Taking four years to build – three to create a thick-enough layer of hard-packed gravel to withstand the harsh winters, and one to refine the surface – it’s been designed to tolerate temperatures that can tip below -40C as well as hit 20C on summer nights when the sun never sets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet even though this is a lifeline for the remote indigenous Inuvialuit community of Tuktoyaktuk (population: 850), the last Arctic village on the edge of mainland Canada’s frozen wilderness, the road is proving divisive. Conceived as a path to oil and gas exploration by former prime minister Stephen Harper’s administration, some see it as a road to resources (despite a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fpolitics\u002Ftrudeau-obama-arctic-1.3905933\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etemporary moratorium on offshore licences\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from Justin Trudeau’s government). Others call it a vanity project, bringing this fragile community one step closer to cultural erosion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for its ardent supporters, including Tuktoyaktuk local Noel Cockney who spent two years working on the road, the highway marks a rebirth for this ultra-remote community. Opening the outpost year round to visitors for the first time ever, it is an opportunity for progress and possibility. In summer, drivers can now reach otherwise inaccessible lakes and rivers, many of which have never been explored. In winter, there is the visceral thrill of witnessing the reindeer herd and driving to out-of-touch Tuktoyaktuk, whose name means ‘looks like a caribou’ in the local language. And for locals, the new route is a potential honeypot for attracting investment and jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPrior to the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway, the community’s winter connection to the outside world was a rudimentary and ephemeral ice track that melted every spring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Getting to ‘Tuk’ used to be incredibly difficult,” said Cockney, parking his snowmobile at a viewpoint overlooking the new highway. “In winter, our way out vanished into thin air, and in summer it was a choice of two: fly or take a boat along the river.” Now, since the road’s arrival, local carrier Aklak Air has suspended its daily service.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The value of keeping these cultural traditions alive can’t be underestimated","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother individual embracing the road’s opportunity is Kylik Kisoun Taylor, a second-generation Inuvialuit who represents the vanguard of the next generation of northerners. A board member of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findigenoustourism.ca\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndigenous Tourism Association of Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and owner of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftundranorthtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETundra North Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Inuit company based in the village of Inuvik at the southernmost point of the road, Taylor grew up in southern Ontario but felt the call of the north from the moment he returned at age 16.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Indigenous culture is a resource here and tourism has the power to harness it,” he told me, clad in seal fur, as we pulled out of Inuvik while driving the new road north. “Whether it’s trapping a duck or killing a caribou with a spear – the value of keeping these cultural traditions alive can’t be underestimated. Indigenous communities are forgetting how to use these Arctic skills, but they can be compatible with tourism and the modern world. And I want to educate visitors about this.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor all that the highway divides local opinion, to drive it is mesmerising. Far from an arrow-straight highway, it loops and bends, hugging the north’s frozen ponds, the so-called Eskimo Lakes, a system of brackish estuarine basins. At the roadside, the Richardson Mountains and boreal forest fade until they disappear completely, leaving the windshield crowded with nothing but a panorama of bald ice. And there are so many shades of white, the sky takes on a pale-coloured glow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You haven’t seen the Arctic unless you come in winter,” said Taylor as we passed a huge plateau of ice. Up close, wind-blown snow rushed the road, moving gravel like an illusion. “We’re at the edge of the tree line here – this is the limit of where it’s comfortable to live.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPast a series of pingos, periglacial landforms made of earth-covered ice that are Canadian national landmarks, Tuktoyaktuk began to make its presence felt. As if divorced from its own country, the village sits segregated on a spit of land jutting out into the Arctic Ocean. There are no sugar maple or spruce, or any trees for that matter – only endless ocean, the cold grey waves frozen and paused.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo and a half hours after setting off, we finally parked near a pier entombed in ice. Tuktoyaktuk’s streets were empty from the cold. The husky huts, where sled dog teams bedded down, were shut for the night. No-one was around except at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fookpiktours.ca\u002Faccommodation-tuktoyaktuk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETuktu B&B\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where I met owner Maureen Pokiak, who discussed the road’s impact with me over dinner. Her husband, James, she apologised, was out on an overnight musk ox hunt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The road may make life a lot easier for folk in the longer term, but we’ll remain connected to the land","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“This community is in our blood, so I don’t anticipate too many changes,” she said, while sharpening a traditional ulu knife to prepare a customary indigenous meal – raw beluga whale, or \u003Cem\u003Emuktuk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. “There’s a hardcore element who love the extremes of this environment, and they live and breathe tradition. The road may make life a lot easier for folk in the longer term, but we’ll remain connected to the land – that’s the way it’ll always be.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnly when our truck headed back south to Inuvik in the darkness, the street lights diffusing a glow across the snow, did I start to understand what she meant. As the road crossed a series of humpback hills, the Arctic sun rose to reveal the ever-shifting beauty of the tundra, the epic drama of the landscape lit in an all-encompassing brilliant silver on white. Out in the pre-dawn light, the reindeer herd were moving on, the sound of ‘rain’ on snow a signal that life in the tundra will go on. Just as it has always done.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-04-19T19:56:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Tuktoyaktuk: Canada’s last Arctic village?","headlineShort":"The world’s toughest highway?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"69.444740","longitude":"-133.038505","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Canada’s 137km Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway is a vital new lifeline across unremittingly spartan tundra, but also a window on an almost-forgotten way of indigenous life.","summaryShort":"It took four years to build and can withstand temperatures of -40C","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:16:34.176824Z","entity":"article","guid":"6c2184ec-1462-4660-b47a-99a7d5418d53","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:28:11.372897Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","_id":"624ec6841f4b7b2a1e708f6e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"To understand life at the top of the world, you only need to meet the Norwegians who live along the E69, the world’s northernmost highway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENot long after Ingunn Utsi had created a fresh set of footprints to her cabin, snow began to fall across the top of the world. It covered her car in a downy layer of white and erased the faint track connecting her oceanfront cabin outside Repvåg, in northern Finnmark, to the E69, a ribbon of ice-covered tarmac at the ends of the Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs the light faded to a bleak glimmer, the 69-year-old \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nordnorge.com\u002Fen\u002Fsapmi\u002F?News=57\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E artist peered out the window, seeing her connection to the outside world vanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere was a time when I was growing up when there were no roads here. Only boats. Life moved much slower then,\" Utsi said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ERunning 129km north from Olderfjord to Nordkapp on a finger of land at the top of Arctic Norway, the E69 is the world’s most northerly highway, a marvel of engineering along the coast of Western Europe’s northernmost peninsula. First proposed as early as 1908 by Landslaget for Reiselivet i Norge (the country’s fledgling national tourist association), yet only completed in 1999, the road is a brilliant contradiction, connecting a handful of remote and fragile fishing communities that have long proven they are capable of living without the outside world. For many, wooden boats continue to satisfy their needs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo drive the road today is to glimpse Norway’s wilderness at its rawest. Obsidian-black bluffs rise up over narrow sea inlets; mountains lurch into the windshield before giving way to vast plateaus pockmarked by dwarf birch; and violent storms frequently roll in from the intimidating Barents Sea. Come winter, the last stretch to Nordkapp and the abrupt cliffs of Knivskjellodden, Europe’s fabled northernmost point, becomes nearly impassable, only open for convoy driving. Without the highway, it’s easy for a first-time visitor to think that the villages along the route would be on the verge of disappearing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe creation of the E69 came about in the 1930s to counter a downturn in the fishing industry, which brooded on the horizon after Nordkapp fishermen lost control of exclusive concession rights. New sources of income for the fishermen had to be found and a mass meeting was held in 1934 in Honningsvåg, Nordkapp’s most populous village, with harbour bosses demanding the municipal council prioritise a national highway to solve the problem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe theory was that locals could earn more netting tourists than from the Barents Sea. An almost-impossible road was the answer to their problems. Or so they hoped. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Utsi’s garden, on the long summer days when the sun never sets, the artist sometimes gets a split-second flashback to when she was young and the prospect of such a road was but a dream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“Was it an isolated community back then? It depends on what you think a community should be,” she said. “Nordkapp is isolated compared to big cities, but human beings are great adapters and can get used to anything. For me this is completely normal.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELiving this far north has many benefits, Utsi explained, particularly for a visual artist. In 1982, she returned from Oslo to her birth house in Repvåg and ever since has been working as a sculptor, inspired by Nordkapp’s extreme realms of weather and light. She has worked with dwarf birch and turned driftwood into celebrated Sami art, but her current project is more ambitious. Using plexiglass, she is trying to recreate the wind. “You cannot touch it, but you can feel it in all aspects of life here,” she said. “Along with the water, it pervades everything we do.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESuch elemental forces of ice, wind and ocean haven’t always made for an easy life – and visitors can forget just how recently modernity arrived in this frozen wilderness. The final 14km section of road to Nordkapp, for example, was built in 1956. Though it was conceived as a summer excursion road for tourists arriving by cruise ship, it now remains in use year round, despite the whims of the weather and days when the outpost sees but a solitary visitor. One of the very last stretches, a deep sea tunnel that connects the island of Magerøya to the Porsanger Peninsula, meanwhile, only opened in 1999.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhile the road’s evolution brought with it opportunity, the dyed-in-the-wool fishing industry on which so many depend has taken a different path. Over the past decade, according to locals, the international fleet has gradually disappeared, in part a reaction to a government mandate to let fish stocks rejuvenate. In tandem, automation has increased, crews have whittled in size and the fish processing industry has moved to China. Nowadays, the just-landed catch is iced and shipped fresh to Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EStill, the fishing industry continues apace – the annual king crab harvest is among northern Europe’s largest, according to local fishermen – and today the harbour is crowded with bumper-to-bumper tugs and trawlers. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs long as your line is baited, there is always hope,\" says a local proverb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EDespite fishing continuing to shape life along the seaboard, art unexpectedly flourishes on the peninsula. In the compact fishing village of Kamøyvær (population 58 people, six dogs, five cats), 63km further north from Repvåg, German artist Eva Schmutterer runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.evart.no\u002Flocations_EN.html#msg-box5-3z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Gallery East of the Sun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And like Utsi, she sources her materials in a rather unusual way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“It’s impossible to get supplies here,” she said, while finishing her latest Northern Lights collage. “I use old magazines and unwanted brochures, which the entire community collects and donates. It helps the recycling effort, plus the winter is long so I have plenty of time to search for the right colour or shade.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAlthough the availability of art goods is limited – as well as food, drink and almost everything else, for that matter – Schmutterer believes the lack of choice engenders self-reliance. People live day to day as they did more than century ago, she explained, and learn to cope with what they have. “The road is our lifeline, our portal to another world,” she said. “But if you depend on it you won’t survive. This isn’t a limitation. It’s a freedom.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWeather dictates life along the E69. You can only do things here when nature lets you,\" Schmutterer said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENature is often in the thoughts of those who live in Honningsvåg, the E69’s main fishing port, often referred to (though readily debated) as the northernmost town in the world. Standing in the centre, all the usual Norwegian props are in place: red, yellow and blue clapboard cabins; giant king crab fishing boats; a steel-grey harbour with trawlers. Posses of restless gulls and guillemots wheel overhead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this offers only one window onto life here. For Honningsvåg is equally concerned not with just cod in winter, wild salmon in spring, coalfish (as known as pollock) in summer and haddock in autumn, but with the artistic and the cinematic. If there’s a reason for coming this far north, for many it’s to seek inspiration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENorwegian feature film director Knut Erik Jensen’s imagination was sparked as a child seeing the trawlers anchor in Honningsvåg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I used to say I was the only idiot in Norway who has stayed this far north their entire career,” he said. “All my films have been shot in Nordkapp and I’ve always taken inspiration from the sailors who have come and gone, whether they’re from Portugal, Spain or farther afield. If you come from Honningsvåg, you’ve seen quite a lot of the world without ever leaving.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometimes I think people who live in a big town are far more isolated than I am,\" Knut Erik Jensen said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBeyond the pines, beyond the trawlers, beyond even the reindeer that congregate each summer, lies Nordkapp and the end of the E69. Where the road finally gives way to ocean, the long winter mixes all shades of darkness like watercolour, while in summer the sun lingers for months. At its tip lies Nordkapphallen, located at 71°10’ 21, with a visitor centre, an underground chapel and a museum dedicated to King Rama V, then sovereign ruler of Siam, who curiously visited by boat in 1907.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside, the windblown plateau might seem nerve-prickling for some, situated 307m above the swirling black waters of the Barents Sea, but it’s the very thing that has drawn people here for centuries. In times past, the massive cliffs marked the end of the world for explorers. But today Nordkapp teaches its visitors the value of something most can no longer grasp: the unpredictability of nature – especially in winter, when the land lies barren and the fall of white on white embodies the ideal of this far northern road that inspires so many.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-25"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-01-22T21:52:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Route E69: Norway’s icy marvel of engineering","headlineShort":"Norway’s icy marvel of engineering","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"To understand life at the top of the world, you only need to meet the Norwegians who live along the E69, the world’s northernmost highway.","summaryShort":"Especially in winter, this far northern road inspires so many","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:23:26.768098Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0de97ec-976f-4223-b5d4-7ea61d4f4818","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:23:20.841594Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b68516efac1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This picture-perfect medieval city is celebrating its 900th anniversary, but its innovative design makes it one of the world’s most sustainable and liveable cities.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“900 years young” reads the bold slogan emblazoned on the side of the tram as it rattles through Freiburg im Breisgau’s historical Old Town. Celebrating its 900th anniversary since originating as a merchant settlement in 1120, the medieval German city nestled at the foot of the Black Forest near the border triangle of Switzerland, France and Germany is arguably quite old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt does, however, have youth on its side. Around 10% of the city’s 220,000 residents attend the prestigious Albert Ludwig University, making the population one of Germany’s youngest. Mayor Martin Horn was just shy of 34 when he was inaugurated at Town Hall in 2018. And the colourful half-timbered houses and car-free cobblestone streets lining its Old Town are, in fact, relatively young, as they were faithfully reconstructed after World War Two bombings. These ingredients have all helped create a Freiburg that is one of Germany’s, if not the world’s, most liveable, progressive, sustainable and child-friendly cities. So, while the city reflects on its 900-year history, I’m here to find out what makes it a city of the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor most, the city’s sustainable turning point can be traced back to February 1975. Thousands of protestors camped out for nine months on a patch of land 30km north of Freiburg deep in the Black Forest. “The protest was peaceful at the time, deeply rooted in solidarity,” said Axel Mayer, who took part in the event and is now the managing director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bund.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBUND\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Federation for Environment and Nature Protection Germany). Though spearheaded by locals, the eclectic group of protesters grew to include left-wing activists, Alsatian winegrowers, skiers, German farmers, architects, doctors, educators, journalists, orchestral musicians and police officers, all united in their mission to stop construction of the proposed Wyhl nuclear power plant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the trucks rolled out nine months later, with construction permanently halted, this successful exemplar of citizen-led activism led Freiburg to become a breeding ground for alternative thinking and birthed a green movement. In the decades since, Freiburg has quickly developed as an environmental economics and solar research hub with a packed green CV:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 1994: Builds \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fattractions\u002Fthe-heliotrope\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeliotrope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: the world‘s first energy-plus house\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2002: Elects Germany’s first Green Party mayor, Dieter Salomon\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2002: Wins \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dubaiaward.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDubai International Best Practices\u003C\u002Fa\u003E award for sustainable development\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2010: Wins \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buildup.eu\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Ffreiburg-named-federal-capital-climate-protection-2010\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational award\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its climate protection efforts\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2012: Named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002F960267.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost sustainable city\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Germany\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E• 2017: New \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Farchello.com\u002Fproject\u002Ffreiburg-town-hall#:~:text=World's%20first%20public%20net%2Dsurplus,net%2Dsurplus%2Denergy%20standard.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETown Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E becomes world’s first public building producing surplus energy\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELast year, Freiburg invited some 25,000 officials and urban planners from around the world to learn from these ground-breaking projects. Thanks to this sharing of knowledge, Padua, a sister city in northern Italy, has since installed Italy’s largest solar farm; while Madison in the US state of Wisconsin is currently planning the construction of a Sustainability Centre based on the Solar Centre in Freiburg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of these visitors were shown around by my guide for the day, Andrea Philipp from the sustainability agency \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aiforia.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAiforia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “We were running so many tours, sometimes four a day,” she told me. “We had to promise locals we wouldn’t run tours on Sundays anymore to give them a break.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With 400km of bike paths and twice as many bikes as cars, Freiburg is a cyclists’ paradise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe were at the Freiburg bike station, an imposing cylindrical building just behind the main train station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t own a car, and I don’t need one. You can cycle everywhere in Freiburg,” Philipp added, as I unlocked my rental bike. With 400km of bike paths and twice as many bikes as cars, Freiburg is a cyclists’ paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis intentional design can be traced back to the post-war period. While other German cities were focusing on rebuilding modern cities that put cars at the centre of future transport, planners in Freiburg took a different approach, centring their designs around public transport, thus widening the streets to accommodate trams and bike lanes, including large pedestrian zones. And at a time when much of Germany was building wide highways and sprawling car parks, Freiburg launched its first urban transport policy in 1969 focusing on environmentally-friendly modes of travel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter consulting the free \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002Fsite\u002FFreiburg\u002Fget\u002Fparams_E-598958076\u002F640891\u002F1910_green-city-map_english_web.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen City map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showing all of the city’s green initiatives, we began our tour, crossing the iconic blue \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Ffeel-freiburg\u002Fwiwilibruecke-wiwili-bridge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWiwilíbrücke bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and heading towards the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fmedia\u002Fevents\u002Ffarmer-s-market-cathedral-square-freiburg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFarmers Market in Cathedral Square\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In the shadows of the 13th-Century gothic tower, every morning (bar Sunday) the square bustles with local produce from 96 stallholders from the region. Much of the produce on offer is organic, owing to the city’s membership in Germany’s Bio-Städte collective that promotes organic farming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Growing up in Freiburg means that wherever you are, you see the mountains with the forest","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter sampling a 35cm \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-trip\u002Ffreiburg-food-drink\u002Fthe-lange-rote-long-red-sausage-freiburg-s-crispiest-emblem\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELange Rote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Long Red) sausage, the city’s favourite edible emblem, we left the Old Town along the FR1, a dedicated bike highway that carries the 15,000 cyclists who travel daily along its 10km route. As we rode alongside the fast-flowing Dreisam River, Philipp told me about a renaturation project that’s designed to be an environmental tit-for-tat to compensate for the nearby train line expansion. “They’re letting the river overflow on the right-hand side to double its size, and welcoming back birds and insects,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200531-what-makes-germans-so-orderly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat makes Germans so orderly?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Gothenburg Europe's greenest city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn match days, a sea of football fans travel along the FR1 and descend on the 24,000-seat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisit.freiburg.de\u002Fen\u002Fattractions\u002Fblack-forest-stadium-schwarzwald-stadion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchwarzwald-Stadion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Germany’s first solar-powered football stadium that’s home to local heroes SC Freiburg. Since solar panels were fitted to the grandstand roofs in 1993, the stadium has generated 250,000 kilowatt-hours per year, powering the stadium and feeding any excess back into the local grid. Borrowing this design ethos is the much-anticipated new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstadion.scfreiburg.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFreiburg Stadium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is integrating solar panels onto its roof and recycling energy generated from a nearby manufacturing plant to heat the stadium. Boasting 10,000 additional seats, it’s on track to host its first match by the end of 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor locals looking for more earthly pursuits, the surrounding Black Forest provides a welcome refuge. The vast mountain range hosts walking tracks, community gardens, allotment gardens, BMX runs and tiny forest cabins belonging to kindergartens. Freiburg native Konstantin Hoffmann remembers his childhood with this connection to nature fondly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Growing up in Freiburg means that wherever you are, you see the mountains with the forest,” he said. “When I was a child, the kindergarten often took us into the nearest forest. I would say because I had such an early binding to nature, the environment and sustainability is deeply rooted in my thoughts.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELying just 3km from the city centre, the much-celebrated planned suburban community of Vauban, has a similar environmentally conscious ethos at its heart. Here, civic involvement goes hand in hand with “collective building” – where citizens buy a piece of land together and build an apartment building themselves, instead of individually buying an apartment from a development company – and ambitious environmental policy. Basically, “people are more green, more alternative and more social,” Hoffmann said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVauban's 5,500 residents live in close-knit cooperatives, private households or social housing developments that cover the suburb's 40 hectares. All housing adheres to Freiburg’s low-energy building standard of 65 kWh\u002Fsq m, and the minimal energy that is brought in is generated locally from the wood-chip powered heating systems located in the neighbourhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBetween the rooftop gardens, food-sharing pantries, organic waste anaerobic digesters, conflict-resolution workshops and co-op supermarkets, it’s impossible to list every social project the community runs, so instead Philipp told me about the one thing it doesn’t have: cars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Vauban, car ownership sits at around 172 cars per 1,000 residents, compared to 393 in greater Freiburg and 531 in the nearby industrial metropolis of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStuttgart\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Many of the streets where you’d expect to see cars parked have been reimagined as playground cul-de-sacs for kids. Apparently, owning a car is the easiest way to commit social suicide in Vauban. “There are occasionally problems between neighbours if someone parks their car in the pick-up area for too long or doesn’t declare they own a car,” Philipp said. Others take it a step further, hiding their cars in neighbouring towns to avoid the accusatory glares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAcross town, 50 Bugginger Strasse is the address of one of the city’s most ambitious rejuvenation projects. The 16-storey high-rise looming overhead appears unremarkable, with its mixture of green- and aqua-panelled external balconies the only eye-catching elements. But Philipp explains that this is, in fact, the world's first passive energy high-rise, in which heat is produced from internal appliances, body heat, and things like lightbulbs rather than conventional heating systems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETen years ago, urban planners Stadtbau embarked on a massive redevelopment project that saw the original 90 apartments redesigned to accommodate 139 dwellings to combat Freiburg’s housing shortage. Through energy-saving lighting and lifts, solar panels, triple-glazed windows and a new passive exhaust heat system housed in the attic, they achieved a 78% reduction in energy use, bringing the 1968 Brutalist building inline with the city's aggressive standards. Social cohesion has even been considered. “If someone moves out, residents on each floor get to vote on who they want to move in. So, if you don’t want a neighbour who plays the guitar, you can say no,” laughed Philipp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETwo kilometres east, there is perhaps no greater proof of municipal commitment to sustainability than the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.freiburg.de\u002Fpb\u002F206652.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETown Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Inside, it’s light and bright, looking more like the spacious atrium of a modern shopping mall than a government office. Its exterior is clad with 4,000 sq m of solar modules, giving it the honour of the world’s first public plus-energy building – meaning it produces more energy than it needs and feeds the excess back into the city’s electric grid – when it opened in 2017. Conceived under the 16-year leadership of the former green mayor Dieter Salomon, the building’s solar panels produced 560 megawatt hours of electricity in its first year – equal to the annual usage of 140 four-person households.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, what does the future hold for a city already pushing the envelope? This Benjamin Button-esque city recorded more births than new arrivals last year, so it will continue to get younger as it ages. And with renewed targets at 50% less CO2 emissions by 2030 and 100% energy from renewable sources by 2050, Freiburg is continuing confidently towards an even greener tomorrow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-16T20:11:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Freiburg: Germany’s futuristic city set in a forest","headlineShort":"Is this Europe’s most liveable city?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This picture-perfect medieval city is celebrating its 900th anniversary, but its innovative design makes it one of the world’s most sustainable and liveable cities.","summaryShort":"This picture-perfect medieval city may show us how to live better","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:17.547894Z","entity":"article","guid":"b29e13fc-c557-4e00-b344-a378fdf72c86","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:11:25.140659Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","_id":"624ec6781f4b7b52c95b970e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For three years in a row, Sweden's second-largest city has been declared the world's most sustainable destination.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast September, I visited Greta Thunberg's Nordic homeland. When I arrived in her hometown of Stockholm, I just missed the celebrated young Swedish climate activist as she’d departed by solar-powered yacht to attend the UN Climate Summit in New York. But I did come to understand why Sweden is a global leader in the tourism-sustainability movement, and why Gothenburg, its second-largest city, has been named a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fgrowth\u002Fcontent\u002Fmalaga-and-gothenburg-announced-2020-european-capitals-smart-tourism_en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Capital of Smart Tourism 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the European Commission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated on Sweden’s scenic west coast, the former industrial port town was not always so environmentally conscious. That changed in the mid-1980s, when Sweden’s minister of the environment, Birgitta Dahl, toured Gothenburg and declared the decaying and dirty blue-collar city “a courtyard to hell”. Properly chastened, political and business leaders vowed to transform the gritty 17th-Century city into a beacon of urban sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat effort, in part the result of widespread community engagement, seems to have worked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gothenberg is a glass and cast-iron greenhouse with towering palms and exotic plants. It is blue-and-white electric trams scooting along the streets, past locals riding bikes. It is roasted coffee, craft beer, some of world’s best seafood and a dozen varieties of vegan “milk”. It is Dutch-built canals, lush urban parks and cobblestone streets, where you can walk from your hotel to shopping, restaurants and nightlife. It is a ferry that takes you across the Götaälv river to a free sauna and public pool, where the water is cleaned entirely without chlorine and the changing rooms are made of recycled bottles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Greta is a really important voice in our time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is no wonder that, for three years in a row, Gothenburg has been declared the world’s most sustainable destination by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gds-index.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Destination Sustainability Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Even its once-grungy harbour has been cleaned up. In 2011, the port received the Shipping Award for Regional Environmental Contribution, and was the first in the world to provide onshore power to vessels at berth, reducing carbon emissions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171102-why-sweden-is-relocating-an-entire-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Sweden is relocating an entire town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200114-the-glitzy-european-city-going-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe glitzy European city going green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170818-the-swedish-word-thats-displacing-hygge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish word poached by the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause of Thunburg’s global presence in the climate crisis that started with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-49918719\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eher 2018 protest outside the Swedish Parliament\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I wondered about Thunburg’s influence in Gothenburg. “Greta is a really important voice in our time,” said Katarina Thorstensson, head of sustainability at the local tourism board, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoteborgco.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoteborg & Co\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Of course, she affects us all, in different ways. I think the travel industry in Gothenburg is well aware of the importance of sustainability, since we’ve been working quite a while with these issues. But Greta has clarified the urgency of levelling up in all industries.” Notably, Thorstensson said, she is “bringing courage to young people to raise their voice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat was evident even during my visit, when Thunberg \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fgretathunberg\u002Fstatus\u002F1177590095458852865?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E “Goteborg!” with the hashtags #ClimateStrike and #FridaysForFuture to cheer on the hundreds of activists protesting in late September.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring my visit, I encountered Gothenburg’s sustainability ethos from the moment my train from Helsingborg slid into the Central Station. With its convenient location, the city’s main transportation hub was steps from my hotel, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fclarion-hotel-post\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClarion Hotel Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a grand old post office with elements of its original architecture. The local tourism board touts that more than 90% of its hotels are eco-certified, meaning they must meet environmental and sustainability standards set by regional organisations, and here, tiny shampoo bottles, plastic cutlery and straws were long gone, a sign of the hotel’s drive to forgo plastic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotel-eggers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eggers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sweden’s third-oldest hotel, has similarly been remodelled in Greta-like fashion, sourcing its electricity from its own wind turbine on the coast and strictly regulating fossil fuels, chemical products and waste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn my hotel rooftop, I discovered an organic vegetable garden planted by urban farmers as part of an emerging “hyperlocal” produce movement. Visitors to the city can join urban safaris to learn more about local food production on a tour of the city’s several urban farms and gardens, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kajodlingen.se\u002Fenglish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKajodlingen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a commercial vegetable farm atop a pier in the industrial area of Frihamnen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Gothenburg’s advantages is its intimacy and accessibility. To explore the compact city, I had many eco- friendly options. I could rent a bike from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fstyr-och-stall\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStyr & Stall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a bike-sharing system with 72 stations. I could try \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002FWeelo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean electric scooter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and get praised via the app for choosing this “carbon-neutral” ride). I could hop on one of the city’s 260 electric trams, many of them named after famous Gothenburg citizens, or enjoy the sights from a quiet, zero-emission electric bus. Currently, 65% of Gothenburg’s public transportation hums on renewable energy, with the goal of making it fully electric is by 2030.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe other choice I had was to walk, which I happily did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGothenburg wouldn’t be truly green, of course, without its proximity to nature. Surrounded by thick forests of linden and beech, the city offers a hefty 274 sq m of green space per citizen. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fbotaniska-tradgarden\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBotanical Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fslottsskogen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlottsskogen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city’s most beautiful parks, are wonderful to explore. At the latter, you’ll find tranquil meadows and wooded paths, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoteborg.se\u002Fwps\u002Fportal\u002Fenhetssida\u002Fslottsskogen\u002Fin-english\u002Fzoo\u002F!ut\u002Fp\u002Fz1\u002F04_Sj9CPykssy0xPLMnMz0vMAfIjo8ziTYzcDQy9TAy9DcIszQwcnfxNXU2cnI2CvQ31w8EKAgxdHA1NQAo8DN0MHANdzfyDXE0MDHxM9aOI0W-AAhwNnIKMnIwNDNz9jcjRj2wScfrxKIjCb3xBbigQOCoCABVUMJI!\u002Fdz\u002Fd5\u002FL2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden’s only free zoo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gnm.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoteburg Natural History Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which, oddly enough, claims to have the world’s only full-size taxidermy blue whale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, the city has created \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fgotaleden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGotaleden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a new and extensive hiking path that starts in Gothenburg and links up with various train stations along the 71km route. The end point is the small town of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fnext-to-gothenburg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlingsas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, often described as “the capital of Swedish \u003Cem\u003Efika\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (a beloved Swedish ritual, where people pause during the day to gather with friends over coffee and cake) as it has the most cafes per capita in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong the way, you can stop in the town of Floda to visit the much-loved restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgarveriet.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarveriet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has a locally sourced organic menu and a “zero-waste” policy. The restaurant is also part of an innovative program called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmeetthelocals.se\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“meet the locals”,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where visitors can experience the Swedish lifestyle and the region’s little-known sights and activities through residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETrue to the city’s green image, Gothenburg residents have avidly embraced sustainable fashion. You can find much of it in the charming neighbourhood of Haga. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fthrive\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThrive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for instance, sells only natural, organic or recycled clothing that is free of toxins and unfair labour practices. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nudiejeans.com\u002Fselection\u002Fmeanwhile-in-goteborg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENudie Jeans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the international brand that launched its successful line of sustainable jeans from Gothenburg, is located here, too. Flea markets abound, and they’re a great way to mingle with locals. The largest one, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmegaloppisimajorna\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMegaloppis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, occurs in the trendy Majorna district at the end of May.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with its fashion and hotels, eco-friendly restaurants are also easy to find. Vegetarian restaurants are plentiful, and a law requires that all meat sold in the municipality must be organically farmed. (KRAV, a regional organisation, certifies restaurants for animal health and toxic-free farming; look for KRAV-labelled eateries to confirm you’re being good to the environment.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Ftaverna-averna\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaverna Averna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a KRAV-endorsed Italian bistro in an old auction house, grows its own vegetables on the roof. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fupper-house\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUpper House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a one-star Michelin establishment, is perched on the 25th floor of the Gothia Towers, a huge luxury hotel and convention centre. Besides its magnificent view, the restaurant also maintains a roof-top garden and a beehive, with its honey used to sweeten cocktails served in the bar. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurangkoka.se\u002Fen\u002Frestaurant-koka\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKoka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another celebrated restaurant, plans its menu around the seasons, working with local farmers and seafood producers to provide the freshest ingredients. A recent seven-course menu featured, among other dishes, scallops with elderflower and leek followed by lingonberries with ice cream, mustard and caramel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut can Gothenburg maintain its lofty vision of sustainability, I wondered? Change was evident everywhere. As I walked towards the harbour from the historical town centre, past old buildings, alfresco cafes and small specialty shops, the skyline suddenly transformed. Glass and steel structures rose above the waterfront, and building cranes pierced the sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext year will be the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg2021.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E400th anniversary of Gothenburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the city has been busy preparing – running workshops with young people, hosting sustainable urban design conferences and consulting residents on sustainability projects that enhance life for locals. It seems like they’re well prepared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This work started in 2009, with focus groups and dialogue with the people of Gothenburg,” said Eva Lehmann, head of public relations for Goteburg & Co.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most exciting projects is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fjubileumsparken\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJubileumsparken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an urban park unfolding in the working-class Frihamnen neighbourhood, near the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goteborg.com\u002Fen\u002Fthe-sauna-in-frihamnen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoutdoor pool and sauna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The goal is to make the area a green and dynamic part of the inner city. Local residents have been busy designing new activities and projects here, including a “rain” playground for children built to accommodate the region’s frequent downpours. “This is a new approach to urban development, with people allowed to gradually take over the area and make it their own,” Lehmann said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, this building boom could dramatically change the city’s intimate feel, and perhaps even its ambition to create a greener city. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falvstaden.goteborg.se\u002Frivercity-gothenburg-open-to-the-world\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERiverCity Gothenburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a multi-million-dollar redevelopment project with office towers, apartments and shopping, is springing up along the waterfront. The massive construction is intended to house the city’s anticipated 250,000 new residents over the next 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Gothenburg seems to have planned for challenges to its sustainability goals, too. You have only to peruse the city’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falvstaden.goteborg.se\u002Frivercity-gothenburg-open-to-the-world\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblueprint for the future \u003C\u002Fa\u003E – including efforts to tackle the rising sea levels predicted in the next decade and prevent the river from flooding – to know they’re working on it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-02-24T21:05:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Is Gothenburg Europe's greenest city?","headlineShort":"From 'hell' to beacon of sustainability","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For three years in a row, Sweden's second-largest city has been declared the world's most sustainable destination.","summaryShort":"For three years, it's been declared the world’s most sustainable destination","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:45:02.712404Z","entity":"article","guid":"bd9ede12-363c-425b-a120-93c8acb68add","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T20:09:12.145383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19","_id":"624ec68d1f4b7b2a25399ac8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With a ban on non-essential travel and some countries in complete lockdown, we’re able to witness what happens to the Earth when we’re largely absent for the first time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a travel journalist and someone who cares deeply about the future of our planet, the moral dilemma of air travel is something I constantly grapple with. I’ve reduced the number of trips I take, buy carbon offsets when I travel and focus my assignments on stories that allow me to tackle conservation issues whenever possible. But the positive effect these measures have had is hard to quantify.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat isn’t as nebulous is this: when the world stays home, the planet benefits. There’s nothing good about the coronavirus, but with a ban on non-essential travel and some countries in lockdown, we’re able to witness what happens to the Earth when we’re largely absent for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fimages\u002F146362\u002Fairborne-nitrogen-dioxide-plummets-over-china\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESatellite images\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published by NASA and the European Space Agency detected a reduction in nitrogen dioxide emissions (which come predominantly from the burning of fossil fuels) from January to February in China, due to the economic slowdown during quarantine. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.carbonbrief.org\u002Fanalysis-coronavirus-has-temporarily-reduced-chinas-co2-emissions-by-a-quarter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFindings\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the Centre for Research on Energy and Clean Air (CREA) show that China’s carbon dioxide emissions (which also come from fossil fuel combustion) have reduced by 25% because of measures taken to contain the coronavirus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDuring Italy’s quarantine, similar \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fblogs\u002Fearthmatters\u002F2020\u002F03\u002F13\u002Fairborne-nitrogen-dioxide-decreases-over-italy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esatellite \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fblogs\u002Fearthmatters\u002F2020\u002F03\u002F13\u002Fairborne-nitrogen-dioxide-decreases-over-italy\u002F\"\u003Edata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has shown a drop in nitrogen dioxide emissions in the country’s northern region; and waterways in Venice \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-51943104\u002Fcoronavirus-venice-canals-clearer-after-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eappear cleaner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E because of a drastic reduction in tourist boat traffic (though, much to the chagrin of animal lovers, the photos circulating of dolphins frolicking in the canals were actually taken nearly 800km away in Sardinia).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn India, a nationwide curfew on 22 March resulted in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenergyandcleanair.org\u002Fjanata-curfew-pollution-levels\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elowest average level of nitrogen dioxide pollution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E ever recorded in spring, according to the Centre for Research on Energy and Clean Air (CREA). And as North America (one of the world’s major polluters) enters a major economic downturn, it’s likely we’ll see similar effects there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, a global health crisis is not the answer to reducing greenhouse gas emissions, but the phenomenon should give us cause to reflect on the impact human activity has on the planet – including how we travel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERestrictions on non-essential travel means airlines are grounding planes, drastically slashing flights or suspending operations completely. While data on the specific environmental outcomes of reduced aviation is yet to be published, we know it’s likely to have a significant impact. A 2017 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fiopscience.iop.org\u002Farticle\u002F10.1088\u002F1748-9326\u002Faa7541#erlaa7541s5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E conducted by researchers at the Lund University Centre for Sustainability Studies in Sweden (LUCSUS) in partnership with the University of British Columbia showed that there are three personal choices we can make to quickly cut a lot of greenhouse gas emissions: reduce air and car travel, as well as meat consumption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200412-four-countries-with-a-tradition-of-kindness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat can we learn from 'kind' nations?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhich countries will recover first?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200330-covid-19-virtual-travel-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan we travel without travelling?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA 2018 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41558-018-0141-x.epdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudy \u003C\u002Fa\u003Epublished in Nature Climate Change showed that emissions from tourism add up to 8% of the global total, with flying making up the largest share of this. “By far, the biggest action we can take is to stop flying or to fly less,” said Kimberly Nicholas, a sustainability scientist at LUCSUS. “One round-trip flight from New York to London is the equivalent of about two years of eating meat [in terms of personal carbon footprint].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn light of these startling statistics – in conjunction with the visible signs of environmental relief we’ve seen as the world stays home to beat Covid-19 – the question needs to be posed: when we can travel again, should we?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There's just no way to have a safe climate and the business-as-usual plan with the aviation industry,” said Nicholas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf we want to meet the Paris Agreement’s target of limiting global warming to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels by 2030, we need to make significant changes to how we travel. Part of this is going to have to come from within the airline and transportation industries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome airlines are making headway through research into innovations like biofuel and electric-powered aircraft. “There's still a lot of potential fuel economy that could be gained from redesigning aircraft to be more efficient,” said Colin Murphy, deputy director of The Policy Institute for Energy, Environment and the Economy at University of California, Davis. “If you're using waste oil, biofuels typically get about 60% greenhouse gas reductions compared to conventional petroleum,” he added. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgreentravel.arts.ubc.ca\u002Fclimate-aviation\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eamount of land\u003C\u002Fa\u003E needed to grow new sources of biofuel – renewable fuel derived from organic materials – could pose a problem, however. And while there’s potential for electric-powered aircraft, Murphy notes that limited battery technology means this will never be a viable solution for long-haul flights.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Overtourism is just another form of overconsumption","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven if we succeed with these technological innovations, we still need to change our approach to travel as individuals. Just as the planet seems to be taking a breath right now, we’ve also been offered an opportunity for introspection. The coronavirus pandemic has forced us to see how interconnected the people, systems and organisations in our world are. While this revelation has been devastating in terms of how quickly the virus has spread globally, it’s also shown us how we’re able to unite and act as individuals for the collective good. We’ve practised social distancing to protect the elderly and immune-compromised; we’ve cheered healthcare workers on from our balconies; and shared the message to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fsearch?q=%23Stayhome&src=typeahead_click\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E#stayhome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on social media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Covid-19 is behind us, we need to once again look outside ourselves and take individual action for the good of the planet. Just as coronavirus has forced our lives to slow down, we should consider a slower, more thoughtful approach to travel. There’s an authentic connection that comes with a place when we take the time to understand its people, culture and natural beauty in a meaningful way. This can’t be achieved with superficial port-to-port itineraries – we could also do without the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp044trlb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eenvironmental wreckage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that a lot of large cruise ships leave in their wake – or by hopping around to a legion of countries in two weeks. It might mean taking one longer trip per year instead of packing in five or six shorter ones, which would drastically reduce our carbon footprint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Overtourism is just another form of overconsumption,” said Shannon Stowell, CEO of the Adventure Travel Trade Association and sustainable travel advocate. “I'm fine seeing tourism numbers lower overall and for the quality of tourism to increase, where people understand the destination better and have a positive impact on it versus overcrowding and pollution and wildlife habitat loss – which are all outcomes of too much tourism,” he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Carbon offsets help and they absolutely move the needle","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe can also alleviate some of the environmental stress of travel simply by keeping more of our adventures local. “This is actually the biggest impact we can have,” said Nicholas. “I used to be a frequent flyer, but I’ve found other ways to find that kind of novelty and adventure. Basically, slow travel and self-powered travel.” This might look like enjoying your local beach instead of one in Mexico and saving your carbon budget for a more impactful trip.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen we do fly, we can purchase carbon offsets. “Carbon offsets help and they absolutely move the needle,” said Murphy. They're not as good as actually reducing the emissions from travel so you're not completely undoing all the harm, but they help.” When trying to decide what kind of offset to purchase, it’s vital to donate to a project that’s additional, meaning that it didn’t exist beforehand. So, when you donate to a cause that’s protecting deforestation, make sure the land in question wasn’t going to be protected anyway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHow we fly also matters. As enticing as the extra legroom in business class is, purchasing those seats also increases your carbon footprint because it means less passengers per plane. “The more densely packed you are, the lower your emissions are per passenger mile by quite a bit,” Murphy notes. “At a policy level, we need transparency about the true environmental impact of our choices, and we need prices to align with those impacts,” said Austin Brown, executive director of the Policy Institute at UC Davis. “For example, making first-class tickets cost more.” (The price tag on first-class seats is used to subsidise cheap economy tickets, reducing the overall cost of travel and allowing more people to fly.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen we’re on the ground in a destination, we can reduce our footprint by being respectful to the area’s culture and environment. “When you travel to a new place, you’re a guest in their home,” said Stowell. Part of accomplishing this is to choose sustainable accommodation and activities, and a green mode of transportation to explore the place you’re in. This might mean partnering with a sustainable local tour operator who is more familiar with the tourism landscape, which is also a way to give back to the local economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are destinations, worldwide, reliant on travel and tourism for survival","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo weed through eco-tourism greenwashing, travellers should be looking for tour operators with a transparent sustainability plan. “If you go on a company website and find a sustainable tourism plan, and you then see an impact report in the next 12 to 48 months, you know they’re putting their money where their mouth is,” said Shannon Guihan, chief sustainability officer at The Travel Corporation and their sustainable tourism non-profit, TreadRight, which has developed a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.treadright.org\u002Fresponsible-travel-checklist\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echecklist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help travellers adopt eco-friendly habits and be more conscious with their choices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We still need travel,” Guihan added. “Tourism is one of the biggest employers in the world and there are destinations, worldwide, reliant on travel and tourism for survival.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside of the global tourism economy, travel has the potential to benefit all of us. When we travel in a meaningful way, we gain cross-cultural understanding and develop greater empathy for people outside of our immediate circle. Travel gives us the global perspective we need to care about the future of our home here on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout my career as a journalist, I’ve shared mint tea with Bedouins in the middle of the desert in Jordan, looked into the eyes of a mountain gorilla in the lush jungles of Rwanda and tracked tigers under a white-hot sun with local naturalists in India. These experiences have given me a deep appreciation for the vast, diverse, infinitely beautiful world we live in, and a desire to protect it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOur ability to wander has been temporarily taken from us, and never has it felt like more of a luxury. “This crisis might give us the opportunity to instill a new travel mindset,” said Stowell. “Travel is a privilege, not a right.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI can’t imagine a world without travel, but I know that if we don’t change how we travel, there won’t be a planet left for us to explore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-16T04:32:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How can we be sustainable post-Covid 19?","headlineShort":"What happens to Earth in our absence?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With a ban on non-essential travel and some countries in complete lockdown, we’re able to witness what happens to the Earth when we’re largely absent for the first time.","summaryShort":"How we can continue the planet’s recovery after the pandemic is over","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:47:44.047567Z","entity":"article","guid":"bd8456c8-fff3-4b17-a3fc-c2c0fc6cd198","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:07:30.641034Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","_id":"624ec68f1f4b7b68593c7324","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsrishti-chaudhary"],"bodyIntro":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Germany's south-west, nestled between the alps of the Swabian region and the densely wooded Schönbuch nature park, lies Tübingen, a university city that would put most Disney locations to shame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is built around the almost perfectly preserved old town, with its cobbled alleyways, old timbered houses and rippling canals. (While historical centres of most German cities were destroyed during World War Two, just one bomb fell on Tübingen.) The river Neckar flows through the city centre, forming a little island – the Neckarinsel – which is covered with blossoms in the spring and shines golden in autumn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen lies in Swabia, a German region famed for its frugality – and which is also one of the nation's sunniest spots, making it considerably more cheery than other parts of the country with more gloomy, rainy weather. Significantly, being an academic city, it is small yet dynamic. \"For the size of the city, I find it incredibly international,\" said Nele Neideck, who runs an expat community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first came to Tübingen eight years ago to visit a friend, and, on first impression, the city seemed like a fairy tale, with its idyllic landscape and youthful vibe; out of the 90,000 residents, more than 27,000 are students at the University of Tübingen. We waded through gushing streams, feasted on Swabian specialties and travelled to parties in buses full of students. When I bid goodbye to this quirky town, I never imagined that years later I'd be returning to make it home. But that's what Tübingen does: it pulls you in, and before you know it, the ease of living in a place as small and vibrant as this makes you never want to leave.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvwqj3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Tübingen in Baden-Württemberg","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut that's not all that characterises Tübingen: it's also innovative, green and allows the existence of alternative lifestyles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo put the city's singularity into context, Tübingen was one of the centres of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dw.com\u002Fen\u002F68-movement-brought-lasting-changes-to-german-society\u002Fa-3257581\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGerman student protests of 1968\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which took place all over West Germany rejecting traditionalism and authority, which influenced the city's leftist and environmental sensibility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's futuristic city set in a forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Europe's greenest city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow can we be sustainable post Covid?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Tübingen, there are self-governed housing initiatives, where cooking and grocery shopping is organised collectively and is mostly vegan,\" explained Jenny Bröder, who has been living in Tübingen for 12 years and works at the university. \"The people running and living in these housings are often politically active, cultivate an awareness for social and ecological topics, and contribute to the cultural scene by organising concerts, lectures, festivals and parties. The food offered at these events is usually vegan too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, a lot of people I have met since moving here are vegetarian or vegan, and it's as common to ask if someone eats meat as it is to ask if they have allergies. Tübingen is even an official participant in Veganuary, the annual challenge that encourages people to go vegan for the month of January.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our vegetarian offering of the day gets sold out much quicker than the meat offering,\" said Alok Damodaran, who runs a South Indian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fspicetrippingfoodtruck\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood truck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city. This is significant in a country that is known for its sausage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvwqhz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sedat Yalcin at Ada Bakery","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreen politicians have been a part of the District Council since way back in 1979. And as a third of its population are students, the city is home to an educated community that is aware of environmental issues. It is this young and energetic spirit that allows for sustainability to be functional.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, Amelie Dietenberger and Kajetan Krott started baking vegan banana bread during the pandemic, first making individual deliveries and then turning it to a business supplying to several cafes. \"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people, which fits our project,\" said Dietenberger. \"People are so supportive because it's a local initiative, and they especially appreciate it that we deliver it in an electric car.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESedat Yalcin opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adabaeckerei.com\u002F\"\u003EAda Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city after coming here for an exchange programme several years ago, and now runs it with his wife, Aysenur-Sarcan Yalcin. While Germany is famous for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170203-germanys-favourite-fast-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edöner kebab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and shawarma joints, in Yalcin's bakery, virtually all the food is vegetarian or vegan. There are delicious \u003Cem\u003Eböreks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E filled with spinach, potatoes, aubergines, tahini and cheese alongside \u003Cem\u003Esimits\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a circular Turkish bread, and heaping salads. \"We are sold out every evening,\" Yalcin said. \"A vegetarian Turkish bakery works here because of all the students, but also people who are from here, they care about the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen is also constantly being redesigned and updated to be ever-more environmentally friendly. Wide and well-integrated bike lanes along with high parking fees makes the city very car unfriendly. An \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tagblatt.de\u002FNachrichten\u002FFreie-Fahrt-fuer-Radfahrer-494307.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eorder passed in February 2022\u003C\u002Fa\u003E declared that cars will no longer be allowed to drive on the city's central street, which will be reserved for buses and bikes. Students can travel on buses for free on weekends and after 19:00 in the evenings, while bus travel is free for everyone on Saturdays. (The local government even plans to make buses free all the time.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen spends three times as much per capita on bicycle infrastructure than Copenhagen, Boris Palmer, the city's mayor, told me. And a new tax imposed at the beginning of 2022 – with Tübingen being the first city in Germany to implement it – has upgraded the green status of the city even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvwqh8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Passive houses at quarter 'Alte Weberei', Tuebingen","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Verpackungssteuer(packaging tax) imposes an extra payment of fifty cents on any disposable packaging, from coffee cups to ice cream bowls to meal plates. In addition, all disposable cutlery like folks, knives and spoons cost twenty cents extra. Even pizza boxes and the foil around a takeaway falafel are taxed. Regardless of whether they're made from sustainable or recycled material, anything that is one-time use will be costlier, based on the principle that non-production is better than future recycling or disposal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tax is already off to an encouraging start: the first few weeks resulted in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swr.de\u002Fswraktuell\u002Fbaden-wuerttemberg\u002Ftuebingen\u002Fverpackungssteuer-tuebingen-bilanz-nach-einem-monat-100.html\"\u003Eup to 15% less waste in the city's rubbish bins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The number is only set to rise, as more people get in the habit of bringing their own cutlery and restaurants start providing reusable dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth the residents and businesses of Tübingen have risen to the challenge. \"I have stopped stocking any disposable plates,\" said Naresh Taneja, who has owned vegan Indian restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FMaharajaImbiss\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaharaja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Tübingen for 30 years. \"We were already encouraging our customers to bring their own lunchboxes, and now this tax helped even more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYalcin added that the local government provided assistance to deal with the packaging tax and helped them buy dishwashers and reusable cutlery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ruling has not gone down well with Tübingen's only McDonald's, however, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eis suing the city over the tax\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With more than 1,500 restaurants across the country, McDonald's claim it's hard to customise solutions and are arguing for a uniform framework as opposed to rules differing across cities. \"We agree that the best packaging is the one that is not produced in the first place. But local special paths of individual cities or communities stand in the way of a nationally successful and implementable concept,\" said a spokesperson, as the company is implementing targeted trials of their own reusables system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bvwqh4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tubingen, view of the bridge decorated with flowers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is not, however, the first time McDonald's has tried to block such a move; the packaging tax was proposed in the German city of Kassel in the 1990s, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\"\u003Ea McDonald's lawsuit overturned the attempt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Palmer is confident that Tübingen's packaging tax will prevail when the case is heard in March 2022. \"We believe that a city has the right to frame such a tax, and then even a big company has to accept that. I can't believe why an international company can't switch to reusables if every small business can do that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPalmer, who was appointed mayor in 2007, is credited by many for shaping Tübingen's green policies, such as obligatory solar photovoltaic systems on roofs and the free buses on Saturdays. \"We have seen a reduction in the emission of carbon dioxide per capita by 40% in the last 15 years, while Tübingen's economy has grown by 40%,\" he said. \"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming and keep growing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile much can be learnt from Tübingen's model, perhaps it's hard to replicate the city's victories, as they emerge from a uniquely supportive social and political landscape. Some worry Tübingen runs the threat of going too far: a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiegel.de\u002Fpanorama\u002Fdie-gruene-hoelle-a-f2760e56-0002-0001-0000-000077531620\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2011 Spiegel article\u003C\u002Fa\u003E described the French Quarters, one of the greenest neighbourhoods in the city – and the country – as a \"green hell\", presenting its residents as intolerant and hypocritically green.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, many feel that Tübingen is too academic to be considered a real-world example. \"You will stay very much in the academic bubble if you live there,\" said Kathi Winkler, who lived in Tübingen for several years before moving to Berlin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the example of Tübingen shows that paving the way for a greener planet can be achieved on a small scale, proving that small can be powerful, beautiful and inspirational.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-21T10:58:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Tübingen: Europe's fiercely vegan, fairy-tale city","headlineShort":"A vegan-loving city sued by McDonald's","image":["p0bvwqjp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.521637","longitude":"9.057645","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bvwqjp"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","summaryShort":"Will this fairy-tale town of the future prevail?","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-20T20:59:15.476513Z","entity":"article","guid":"fa835272-2991-4d30-b327-40a0827ad13d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:21:46.748591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgermany","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_germany_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","_id":"624ec6911f4b7b70455f8797","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You might want to stay in the water for another minute,\" our skipper called out from the nearby boat as our small group surfaced from a dive on Lady Musgrave Island's magnificent outer reef. \"There's a pod of whales coming straight for you,\" he grinned, and swiftly maneuvered the boat out of the path of the incoming cetaceans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeering down through my snorkel goggles, the turquoise water was so clear that I could make out the mantra ray cleaning station some 20m below us, where we'd observed one of these majestic kites of the sea dancing in the current as small fish nibbled at its vast white underbelly. Then everything went black as five barnacle-encrusted humpback whales swam directly beneath us, the gentle giants gliding just metres from the tips of our fins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this extraordinary corner of Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, it's difficult to believe the World Heritage Site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-57938858\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enarrowly escaped\u003C\u002Fa\u003E being put on Unesco's \"in danger\" list earlier this year. Though few travellers will have heard of the setting of my blockbuster dive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPart of the Capricorn and Bunker Group, a cluster of coral cays and reefs on the southern fringe of the Great Barrier Reef, Lady Musgrave Island is one of the reef's best-kept secrets. While tourists have been visiting the Northern Great Barrier Reef since the 1890s, intrepid travellers didn't start arriving the southern section until the 1930s, when the turtle cannery on Heron Island was converted into a holiday resort. Yet the Southern Great Barrier Reef (which spans some 300km from the Capricorn Coast down to the Bundaberg region) still receives far fewer visitors than the likes of Cairns and the Whitsundays, accounting for less than 9% of the reef's 2.4 million annual visitors pre-Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a shame, for in my own experience of snorkelling and diving along the length of the Great Barrier Reef since my first visit to the Whitsundays as a six-year-old in the 1980s, I've discovered that its southern fringe is no less spectacular than other sections. Less prone to extreme weather events such as cyclones and prolonged heatwaves, it can be argued this corner of the reef is also in better shape. United by a commitment to sustainability, its key tourism operators hope to keep it that way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Turtle swimming at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, amid \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbrmpa.gov.au\u002Four-work\u002Fthreats-to-the-reef\u002Fclimate-change\u002Fsea-temperature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epredictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that climate pressures will force the Great Barrier Reef's marine life and seabirds to migrate south to escape global temperatures rising too fast for them to adapt to, could tourists follow? As Australia edges closer to reopening to the world, this corner of the reef has arguably never been so ready to roll out the welcome mat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA state-of-the-art pontoon with an underwater observatory that transforms into a 20-bed dormitory by night, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002Flady-musgrave-hq\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave HQ\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the Southern Great Barrier Reef's newest attraction. Opened in September 2021, the three-level pontoon, which also has glamping on the upper deck, provides access to pristine dive sites beyond the locations previously available to day trippers (though as I recently experienced, the latter are still pretty impressive). Permanently moored in the lagoon surrounding Lady Musgrave Island, where the Queensland National Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) manages a campground, the Lady Musgrave HQ is now one of the Great Barrier Reef's most low-impact tourism experiences. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fcan-science-and-tourism-save-the-reef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan science and tourism save the reef?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200922-australias-forgotten-other-great-reef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's forgotten other 'Great Reef'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fis-this-the-future-of-underwater-exploration\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the future of underwater exploration?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The pontoon is essentially zero footprint,\" said owner-operator Brett Lakey, whose Bundaberg-based reef cruise business, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave Experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is carbon neutral. Built from the most eco-friendly materials available, the Lady Musgrave HQ runs entirely on solar and wind power, has its own desalinator, and all waste produced is transferred back to the mainland on the Reef Empress, a 35m catamaran that docks at the HQ by day. \"She's also rated to withstand a category three cyclone, which is hopefully more than we'll ever get down here,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors also have the opportunity to give back to the reef through coral cultivation and citizen science programmes, and learn about reef conservation from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgidarjil.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGidarjil Bundaberg Sea Rangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, part of the Queensland Indigenous Land and Sea Ranger Program, who regularly join Lady Musgrave Experience trips.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDives sites now accessible to Lady Musgrave HQ guests include the colourful coral gardens fringing Lady Elliot Island, the Great Barrier Reef's southernmost coral cay, where manta rays aggregate in the hundreds. Stripped bare by guano miners in the late 19th Century, then left to the goats, Lady Elliot Island has been painstakingly rehabilitated over the past 50 years, most notably by the Gash family, who have operated \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fladyelliot.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Elliot Island Eco Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2005.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Humpback whale breaching near Lady Musgrave island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWidely credited for setting the benchmark for sustainable island tourism in Australia, the family-friendly resort reached its 100% renewable goal in 2020 – no small feat for a 150-bed hotel in the middle of the ocean, some 80km from mainland Bundaberg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Lady Elliot Island was selected as the first \"climate change ark\" as part of the Great Barrier Reef Foundation's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barrierreef.org\u002Fscience-with-impact\u002Freef-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReef Islands Initiative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, designed to safeguard critical habitats from the impacts of climate change. Building on the Gash family's own tree-planting programme, an extensive revegetation project launched as part of the initiative is paying off in more ways than expected. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We initially started planting trees because it felt like the right thing to do, but now we're seeing changes on the reef,\" said the resort's managing director Peter Gash, who was awarded an Order of Australia Medal in 2020 for his service to ecotourism and aviation. \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-019-41030-6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScientists have found\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that guano also works like a fertiliser for coral, so the bird life that the trees are attracting is helping the reef to flourish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKey to preparing the island as an \"ark\", said project leader Dr Kathy Townsend, a marine biologist and senior lecturer at the University of the Sunshine Coast, is learning more about it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're currently creating a baseline species list so we know what's living here now,\" she said. \"This will help us to monitor 'thermal refugees' (marine life and birds escaping warmer temperatures further north) coming in as time goes on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Coral beach on Lady Musgrave Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe importance of the project – which island guests can assist with by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fleaftoreef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euploading photos of marine life and seabirds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the project's Facebook page – was magnified in 2020, when the Southern Great Barrier Reef experienced coral bleaching for the first time. Fortunately, affected corals in this region have largely recovered. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events,\" said Townsend. \"Problems start occurring when these events happen with more frequency, which we've seen in other areas of the reef.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReopened in late 2019 following a A$22m facelift, the Bundaberg region's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fparks.des.qld.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fmon-repos\u002Fattractions\u002Fmon-repos-turtle-centre\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMon Repos Turtle Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which provides a critical habitat for endangered loggerhead turtles – is also implementing strategies to combat climate change impacts, such as rising temperatures, which can increase the ratio of female sea turtle hatchlings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our hatchery areas are shaded, which can reduce the incubation temperature slightly,\" said Lauren Engledow, a ranger at the QPWS-managed facility, which runs tours during the summer nesting season. \"This also prevents the entire clutch from overheating, because turtles can die if they're too hot, and that's something we're starting to see with those increasing summer temperatures.\" Engledow added that the centre's research team is also assessing the effectiveness of artificial dune watering in increasing clutch success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently on track to achieve ECO Destination Certification (which recognises a region's commitment to sustainable practices) by the end of 2021, the mainland city of Bundaberg is an ideal base for exploring the Southern Great Barrier Reef gently, with a new glamping experience at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsplittersfarm.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESplitters Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E providing a similarly low-impact alternative to the region's original eco-hotel, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkellysbeachresort.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKellys Beach Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bargara. Farm gate stalls burst with fresh produce, and other local attractions, including the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmacadamiasaustralia.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBundaberg Rum Distillery and Macadamias Australia's visitors centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in mid-2021, offer insights into sustainable farming and its connection with the health of the reef.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Manta ray and fish at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther north, in the Capricorn region, visitors can tour a marine research station and stay among a plethora of seabirds at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fheronisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeron Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and glamp on neighbouring Wilson Island, which reopened as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwilsonisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean eco-luxury retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith diesel-powered boats and more emissions-intensive planes and helicopters currently used to shuttle tourists to the Capricorn and Bunker Group due to its considerable distance from the mainland, visiting this area of the reef isn't without its sustainability challenges. But it's not only local operators who believe that tourism nonetheless plays an important role in helping to safeguard this natural wonder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The economic force of tourism helped to push the creation of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park over the line in the first place,\" said Townsend. \"And now, in the face of climate change, tourism provides a strong economic incentive to keep the reef alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:36:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An extraordinary corner of the Great Barrier Reef","headlineShort":"Australia's reef that only 9% visit","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-23.9073","longitude":"152.3925","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","summaryShort":"Will tourists follow the Great Barrier Reef's \"thermal refugees\"?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:37:13.661123Z","entity":"article","guid":"db74c996-aac0-485b-be6d-85525f613808","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:32:03.129349Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","_id":"624ec6a51f4b7b6b6d5a41f8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002Fwhere-we-work\u002Fnewhaven\u002Fvisiting-newhaven-wildlife-sanctuary\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewhaven Wildlife Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an abrupt portal between two worlds. At one end of the road is Alice Springs, population 25,000, which is what counts in Outback Australia for an urban metropolis. At the other end are the isolated red-rock desert massifs, salt lakes and spinifex plains of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fsystem\u002Ffiles\u002Fresources\u002Fa8015c25-4aa2-4833-ad9c-e98d09e2ab52\u002Ffiles\u002Fbioregion-great-sandy-desert.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Sandy Desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia's second-largest desert, covering more than 280,000sq km. One moment you're in town, sharing the tarmac with 50m-long road trains along the Stuart Highway. Then the traffic thins, and the road across the Tanami Desert narrows and turns to sand. All of a sudden, or so it seems, you're deep in the desert in the heart of the continent. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOpen for self-drive visitors at Easter, and from May to the end of September, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is known for its birdlife and the stark beauty of its desert landscapes. It is also what all of inland Australia once looked like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09vwrkb.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I grew up out here in the desert where healthy country means trees and animals. It's my home.\"\u003Cem\u003E – Alice Ellis, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary ranger\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhite settlers arrived in the Central and Western Deserts of Australia's interior – the Great and Little Sandy deserts and the Tanami, the Simpson and Victoria deserts – in the 19th Century. Before they did, indigenous Australians lived here in harmony with the land and with wildlife that was far more abundant than you might expect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Warlpiri land, and it extends for hundreds of kilometres across the Tanami and Great Sandy Deserts. The Warlpiri are one of the largest nations and language groups among Aboriginal people. Along with the Pintupi, their neighbours to the west, the Warlpiri were among the last people in Australia to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-30500591\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecome into contact with white Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and leave behind the traditional, semi-nomadic way of life that had enabled them to survive in the desert. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWarlpiri woman Alice Ellis belongs to the last generation who can remember what that life was like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, she played in the sand dunes in the country north and west of here, moving with the seasons from one waterhole to the next. She and her family communicated with other groups through fire. When she was still young, she remembers, she and her siblings would run and hide whenever they saw white men coming in their vehicles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a process that the Warlpiri call \u003Cem\u003Eyidakimani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"reading the country\", Ellis learned almost as soon as she could walk how to interpret and track the footprints of the macropod marsupials – including black-footed rock-wallabies, bettongs and bilbies – that you find only in Australia. They also hunted feral cats – \"pussy cats\" as Ellis calls them – as well as birds and reptiles; goanna, one of Australia's largest carnivorous reptiles, which can grow up to 2.5m long, was and remains her favourite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis brings that intimate knowledge of the natural world to her work at Newhaven, a 2,600sq-km sanctuary run by the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralian Wildlife Conservancy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (AWC). As a ranger, she is a keeper of the desert's secrets. Her role is to care for country and to protect the land from the invasive pests that European settlers brought with them, pests like feral cats, foxes and rabbits that have wrought terrible destruction upon Australia's deserts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia has the worst rate of mammal extinctions in the world: one-third of global mammal extinctions over the past five centuries have occurred in Australia, and most of these have been in the country's arid zone. No-one knows for sure, but a dozen, probably more, species that once lived alongside Ellis and her ancestors have disappeared forever. Cats wiped out most of them. Other species have retreated elsewhere, pushed by a plague of cats to the outer margins of their former ranges and to the edge of extinction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEllis knew many of these animals well. When she was a young girl, Ellis and her family used to hunt the mala, a tiny hopping macropod whose creation story began close to Newhaven; the mala's sacred sites remain but the mala itself disappeared from here in the 1980s. There was the greater bilby, otherwise known as \"Australia's Easter Bunny\", thanks to its large ears and its role as one of Australia's best-loved marsupials. Or the burrowing bettong that dug deep burrows and turned over the soil, earning the admiration of scientists who call it Australia's great ecosystem engineer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of this matters for many reasons, not least among them this: 86% of Australia's 315 surviving land mammal species live nowhere else on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWho were the world's first bakers?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-joost-bakker-on-why-zero-waste-living-is-the-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe poster boy of zero-waste living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2006, with the scope of the extinction crisis in Australia's arid interior becoming clear, the AWC began an experiment: they wanted to see if the land in places like Newhaven could be returned to its original state. Ellis, and other Warlpiri rangers, led the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor months, Ellis and her colleagues tracked down the feral cats within a 94.5sq km fenced enclosure that lies close to the sanctuary's headquarters and tourist campsite at the heart of Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are many ways to track cats and other wildlife, but none have proved as effective as indigenous trackers. In the Warlpiri tradition of \"reading the country\", Ellis and the others understood cat behaviour. They knew where to find and follow cat footprints, then interpret what the tracks meant. How many cats were there? In which direction were they travelling? When did they pass? \"Indigenous trackers are much better than what we can do with live traps or cameras,\" said John Kanowski, AWC's chief scientific officer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the feral cats gone, an ambitious programme of mammal reintroductions began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Conservation isn't just a matter of putting a line around a property and saying 'here's this ecosystem we've preserved',\" said Kanowski. \"You haven't achieved anything if you haven't got the critical animals back in there. The introductions complete the conservation journey for a particular piece of land.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlack-footed rock wallabies and red-tailed phascogales, woylies and brush-tailed mulgaras all returned. And yes, the mala and burrowing bettong are also back where they belong, decades after the desert fell silent to their calls. Remarkably, the scientists hope that the bettongs may even return to the same burrows that their ancestors dug nearly half a century ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bilby in Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor all such successes, there is a danger that the traditional knowledge of the desert people – the knowledge that makes such miracles possible – may soon be lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Rachel Paltridge, a scientist with extensive experience working with indigenous people across Central Australia, \"People just aren't going out tracking on foot like they used to do. Back when I started 20 years ago, there was still that older generation of people who grew up in the bush and all going out hunting on country for food.\" Only at Newhaven, and in the small Pintupi community of Kiwirrkurra a few hundred kilometres west across the desert, Paltridge says, do these tracking skills and practices survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis knows that time is short. \"We won't be here forever,\" she said. \"If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as new generations of malas and burrowing bettongs are returning to the lands they once inhabited, a new generation of Warlpiri women are helping them get there. It was Ellis' daughter, Christine, who set some of the reintroduced mala and bettongs free at Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We won't be here forever. If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven when she was a young girl growing up in the desert, Christine's people called her \u003Cem\u003Emurturna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"old woman\" in the Warlpiri tongue. While other children were out playing, Christine sat at the feet of her elders or went with them as they tracked and hunted animals. She joined them as they foraged for bush tomatoes and bush potatoes, learning the old ways as she went.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also learned about the importance of fire. \"There is no healthy country without fire,\" she said, as she lit a match and set the country alight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Christine Ellis at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When people were living traditionally on the land,\" said Steve Eldridge, a regional fire expert, \"they used fire as one of their main tools to stimulate growth, which brought in food – kangaroos, that sort of thing. Because they were such a nomadic nation of people, they were moving through the landscape constantly, always lighting fires, so you end up with this mosaic of fire ages [when a particular piece of land was last burned]. A lot of the native flora and fauna adapted to that regime. When there was this mosaic, just that in itself would stop these huge, fast wildfires from establishing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's not just Newhaven. The resumption of traditional fire practices here is part of a nationwide trend towards restoring the health of ecosystems through indigenous land-management practices. With fires doing their work, the land itself regenerates and the animals and plant life return. Newhaven is home to 23 desert ecosystems across its 261,501 arid hectares, and each ecosystem tells its own story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn places, bloodwoods and ghost gums again play their role as shelters for returning native animals; nearby, the wind in the desert oaks sounds like waves on a distant ocean shore. Vast murmurations of bright-green budgerigars chase birds of prey, shape shifting like a single being careening across the sky. Out in the sanctuary's west, the salt lake that the Warlpiri call Yunkanjini (and which explorers named Lake Bennett) is both sacred site and a vast and beautiful place whose colour palette changes with the light. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is what the desert looked like when I was a little girl,\" said Alice. \"The country is healthy again.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Freasons-to-love-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E ---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-15T02:04:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The indigenous keepers of the Outback's secrets","headlineShort":"A remote world of 23 deserts","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-22.4941","longitude":"131.0658","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","summaryShort":"This is what all of inland Australia once looked like","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-14T19:45:29.813881Z","entity":"article","guid":"6a895c13-52f4-4bfa-99d9-2a3f276d247f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:30:08.620259Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b6b6d5a417f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila"],"bodyIntro":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002Fscience\u002F2017-05-10\u002Fearly-life-on-land-in-3.5bn-year-old-hot-spring-in-pilbara\u002F8497594\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escience has confirmed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E what Aboriginal Australians, the world's oldest continuous living culture, always knew: the Pilbara region of Western Australia is among the oldest places on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara began to form more than 3.6 billion years ago and its vast landscape of deep pindan reds and endless panoramas, which stretches from the west coast to the Northern Territory border, is an ancient, forbidding place. For those travelling to the region for the first time, the initial sense of space and solitude can be daunting: it's roughly double the size of Great Britain, but with a population of just 61,000, it is one of the most sparsely populated regions on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc2yw9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kermits Pool, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists have determined that the Pilbara's vast formations of iron-rich rock, formed prior to the existence of oxygen and life itself, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41561-018-0105-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe best-preserved example of the world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While other global iron deposits are thought to have formed at a similar time, the surface of the Pilbara remains unburied and undisturbed by geologically cataclysmic events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The unique thing about the Pilbara landscape is not just its age, but its incredible state of preservation,\" said Martin Van Kranendonk, professor of geology at The University of New South Wales, who has spent years mapping and studying the Pilbara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30hp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fossilised Stromatolites of Marble Bar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Earth's oldest lifeforms\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Van Kranendonk, Pilbara rock is so ancient that it contains no fossils within its structure, yet stromatolites, the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms, are found upon it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1980, 3.45-billion-year-old fossil stromatolites were found near Marble Bar (pictured above) in the Pilbara. These microbial cyanobacteria communities first existed when conditions on Earth could not support any other form of life, building bulbous reef-like structures as they released oxygen through photosynthesis. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, just south of the Pilbara at Hamlin Pool near Shark Bay, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's most extensive living stromatolites system is still thriving\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, even fizzing, as it produces oxygen in the hypersaline bay. This is one of just two places on Earth where living marine stromatolites exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc330h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Red landscape of the Pilbara with fossils in rock","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EExploring the\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E Red Planet\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, Nasa scientists conducted investigations in the Pilbara with Van Kranendonk to better prepare them for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nasa.gov\u002Fcontent\u002Fnasas-journey-to-mars\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejourney to Mars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Many of them had never personally seen evidence of ancient life and that's what they were going to Mars to look for,\" said Van Kranendonk. \"So, for them, it was really an eye-opening experience, to see and understand the details and texture of the fossilised stromatolites to get a better understanding of what signatures to look for as they search the surface of Mars for evidence of life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than just its age, the chemical similarities of the rock composition mean the Pilbara is highly relevant to the scientists' preparation for the Mars mission. \"The composition of those rocks and the amount of iron in the Pilbara is amazing and similar to Mars,\" said Van Kranendonk, \"which is why it is known as the Red Planet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30pw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Layered rock formations at Hammersley Gorge, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAn underground surprise\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara can be unforgiving, extreme and sometimes dangerous for the ill-prepared. It is also hauntingly beautiful and captures the imagination of visitors from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the area looks like semi-arid desert, within it is one of the world's most beautiful national parks. Carved out of the land by billions of years of slow erosion, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fkarijini\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's otherworldly splendour lies deep in its ancient gorges and sheer-sided chasms, where dramatic waterfalls and crystal-clear waterholes are set among the striated rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor visitors, this is a paradise of cool rock pools fed by underground springs, lush vegetation and abundant wildlife. For scientists, the canyons at Karijini offer unparalleled access to naturally excavated cross sections of layered rock that reveal much about the Earth at the time this ancient land was formed. \"It is such a beautiful thing; those gorges allow you to look down through the layers of time,\" said Van Kranendonk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30wp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Spa Pool, Hammersley Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA natural spa pool\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe permanent flowing waterfalls, waterholes and oases found here are made only more awe-inspiring given the conditions on the harsh Pilbara exterior.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike an ancient, secret cistern, Spa Pool has been hewn from the rock by the constant flow of water at the head of Hamersley Gorge. The bath-like formation is almost completely enveloped in multi-hued, smooth rock wall. The gentle burbling of the stream constantly replenishing the pool is the only sound in one of Karjini's most intimate hideaways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Karijini Eco Retreat","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia's hidden secret\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe only accommodation in the national park is the indigenous-owned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.karijiniecoretreat.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini Eco Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Early mornings at the retreat are special. The cool, predawn air is energising, and the low light filtered through suspended iron-rich dust saturates the landscape in colour before the full sun of the late morning washes away this intensity until sunset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt night, when there is a confluence of clear skies and no moon, Karijini is a dark sky wonderland for stargazers and astro-photographers alike. The dry air and lack of light pollution provide for a dazzling display of detail in the Milky Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is a unique and iconic Australian destination,\" said co-owner Marnie Shields, explaining that guests are often overcome by the beauty, accessibility and diversity of Karijini. \"While the magnificent region is being revealed to the rest of the world, it's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310w"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Massive Fig Tree, Dale Gorge, near Fern Pool","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA shocking world of contrasts\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Karijini guide Pete West, the stark shift in microclimate, fauna and flora shocks most visitors as they descend from the arid surface into the lush, verdant gorges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It becomes apparent very quickly that there's a distinct micro-environment in the gorges,\" he said. \"The flora is remarkably different from the surface, like melaleucas, which are the biggest trees in the Pilbara. You just don't get it on the surface, you only ever see them in creek beds. Then there [are] the delicate ferns, moss and the big leaf fig tree (pictured above). It's such a contrast, in and out of the gorge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe presence of permanent water in the gorges is the fundamental building block of the gorge microenvironment that supports fish, flying foxes and a range of predators taking advantage of the optimal conditions. The abundance of reptiles is astounding, from small desert dragons to pythons up to 5m in length.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc312c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fern Pool, Dales Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EImportant women's place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKarijini is also a place of important cultural significance to indigenous people, with certain locations in the park recognised as women's-only places and others that are strictly for men. \"There are places, for instance, women would go if they wanted to get pregnant and places they would visit if they wanted to have twins,\" explained anthropologist Dr Amanda Harris, who has worked across the Pilbara with traditional owners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFern Pool (pictured above), located in a terrarium-like environment at the genesis of Karijijni's Dale's Gorge, is an important women's place to the local Banjima people, yet unlike other indigenous destinations that prohibit interference, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\"\u003EUluru's climbing ban\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a prohibition on photography at areas within the Kunku-Breakaways near \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191121-australias-subterranean-oasis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoober Pedy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Karijini traditional owners welcome all guests, asking only that visitors be respectful and walk lightly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc314r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mt Bruce, Karijini","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA place of respite\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists believe that the Banjima people and their forebears have been using Karijini, which means \"hilly place\" in local Aboriginal languages, as a meeting location for 30,000 to 40,000 years. Nomadic tribes of the Pilbara maintained life in a challenging environment with daily resource gathering essential for survival. Karijini offered a place of respite and security of resources, shelter and permanent water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is referred to by all the neighbouring tribes as a meeting place, as an ancient place where business is conducted, families get together, marriages are arranged, lore is passed. This still goes on today,\" said West.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMount Bruce (pictured above), Western Australia's second-tallest peak, stands at the entry to Karijini and holds both geological and indigenous significance. Known as Punurrunha to indigenous people, the mountain is a sacred site and highly significant in Aboriginal Law. To Banjima, this is strictly a male-only site, with some female elders refusing to even set eyes on the peak as they pass by. Visitors, however, are not restricted from photographing or even ascending to the summit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc32wk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sun setting on Karrijini, Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAncestral knowledge\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara is still revealing new secrets about early conditions on Earth and the life of the region's first inhabitants. While new discoveries about how long the Pilbara has been continuously inhabited surprise scientists, to indigenous people, it is something they have always known.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because we know life, as a people we've always known [human] life started here,\" said Yindjibarndi and Ngarluma elder and indigenous Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker. \"The world began here, everything began here. So, from our perspective, we've never believed we came from anywhere else except here and that we were created in this landscape by beings much more advanced than us, who also taught us all our knowledge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc31jh"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker on red rocks in Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERecords of extinct macropods\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEarlier this year, Walker was exploring at low tide and found ancient rock etchings that depict kangaroo footprints in the intertidal zone of the Pilbara's Burrup Peninsula. He believes this is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002F2021-07-15\u002Ftour-guide-uncovers-underwater-rock-art\u002F100294428\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe first such underwater find of its kind anywhere in Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, garnering significant scientific interest. He explained that the current theory of origin is that this etching was likely made after the last ice age when the water levels were more than 100m lower, between 7,000 and 18,000 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalker delights in showing guests local rock art containing important imagery such as extinct macropods (pictured above) and believes that many discoveries, both underwater and on land, are yet to be made.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's so funny, even when I'm doing tours, I'll still find lots of new rock art at the same places I have been many times,\" said West. \"But even the guests are finding things I haven't seen before either, you know. It's exciting for everyone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc3240"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Deep gorge in the Pilbara with green shrubs on surface","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA magical place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe magic of the Pilbara lies in its ancient roots. There are no crowds, fences, buildings or other impositions of modernity. Just a place as old as time and its custodians that welcome you to make your own journey of discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This place is for seekers, you know. For photographers, for artists, for painters, geologists, lovers of nature,\" said West. \"I see this in people that come to Karijini in particular. As you walk through those gorges, guaranteed you'll be running your hands along the oldest rocks you'll ever touch. When you think about this, our problems, our concerns, our ambitions are all almost irrelevant. It gives you a true sense of perspective. I think that's super cool.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-24"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-27T10:19:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is the Pilbara the oldest place on Earth?","headlineShort":"The oldest place on Earth?","image":["p0bc2yw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-21.5921","longitude":"121.5237","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bc2yw5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","summaryShort":"\"It's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets\"","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","tag\u002Fnational-parks","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-26T21:47:38.9987Z","entity":"article","guid":"0d191ec0-b990-4b51-a060-aa9b1bdc8120","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:02.919794Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","_id":"624ec67e1f4b7b2a1f768ab8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's early. Fingers of sunlight are only just starting to creep along the streets of Valencia's Old Town, but the stalls inside the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercadocentralvalencia.es\u002F\"\u003EMercado Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are doing a brisk trade already. There's a queue at the charcuterie, and the man behind the counter is slicing wafer-thin strips of \u003Cem\u003Ejamón serrano\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in double time. He zips from one customer to the next, ducking between stocky legs of ham that hang from the front of his stall like fatty windchimes. In the seafood section, tuna, sea bream, anchovies and huge pink langoustines glisten in the ice. One stall here specialises in snails; another sells only saffron.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong them all, taking pride of place at the heart of the Mercado Central, are the fruit and vegetables – plump, richly coloured and all grown in La Huerta (L'Horta in Valencian), a patchwork of neat market gardens that fan out for 28 sq km around the city. Encarna Folgado, owner of Frutas y Verduras Folgado, has been running a stall here for more than 45 years, buying seasonal vegetables direct from the farmers who work in La Huerta's fields. If you need to buy the beans used in a traditional paella Valenciana, you come to Folgado.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The \u003Cem\u003Eferraúra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E have to have a bright green colour, but not too intense,\" she tells me, referring to the horseshoe-shaped beans that are almost spilling out of their crate. The \u003Cem\u003Erochet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a red and green bean, \"has to be a few centimetres wider and thicker, but only a little bit\". And as for butterbeans, which I can see bulging through their cases, \"the best (ones) to eat are when they begin to turn from yellow to green\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlongside the beans are spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers, fat garlic bulbs and spring onions the size of truncheons. They're all part of an incredible bounty of produce that is grown in La Huerta each year, despite the fact that its fields enclose Spain's third-largest city. The secret is an ingenious maze of channels, ditches, weirs and floodgates invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Green fields and farmsteads in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EEight main irrigation channels, or \u003Cem\u003Eacequías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, funnel water from the River Turia, which is then carried – by gravity – along a series of smaller branches, which distribute the water to thousands of tiny plots across the fields. The amount of water each plot receives isn't measured in terms of volume but rather on how well the river is flowing. The unit, known as a \u003Cem\u003Efila\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (from the Arabic word meaning \"thread\"), represents an individual's right to a proportion of the water over a period of time; the irrigation cycle usually lasts a week, but when the river's level is low, the cycle is extended.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's an incredibly efficient system. Each plot receives the same access to water for the same amount of time, no matter where they are in the mosaic, and there are no water shortages, even in periods of drought. And the result is an incredibly diverse crop yield. Centuries-old local rice varieties grow in the fields around Lake Albufera, south of the city, while unique species like \u003Cem\u003Echufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or tiger nuts (which are used to make the ice-cold milky Valencian drink of \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), are sown in the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA luxury resort from 1,500 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe technology that powered the Inca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The system of water management adopted here [means that] aubergines, oranges, artichokes and olive trees can all co-exist together,\" said Clelia Maria Puzzo of the United Nations' Food & Agriculture Organization (FAO), which added La Huerta to their list of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fnews\u002Fstory\u002Fen\u002Fitem\u002F1252906\u002Ficode\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (GIAHS) in November 2019. \"A variety of crops were imported from Asia and America hundreds of years ago, but they adapted perfectly because of this irrigation system.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe whole process is held together by a unique social organisation that has been governing La Huerta for more than 1,000 years. The \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftribunaldelasaguas.org\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de la València\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E, or Water Court of the Plains of Valencia, was established around 960 CE and as such is officially the world's oldest judicial body. The tribunal is made up of eight farmers, elected representatives of the communities that work off each of the main irrigation channels, who meet to settle disputes outside the doorway of Valencia Cathedral every Thursday at noon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Water Tribunal meeting with crowds of people watching","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's quite a sight, with the men – they are all men – dressed in black smocks and seated in a semi-circle of leather-topped wooden chairs, where they enforce the rules of distribution. Water is the only issue up for debate, and according to María José Olmos Rodrigo, the Tribunal's secretary, the defendants are usually hauled before the court because \"they've flooded a neighbour's field, taken water out of turn or haven't maintained their section of irrigation ditch correctly\". Proceedings are in Valencian and are ruthlessly quick; all decisions are final.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the Tribunal has been an ever-present aspect of the system, the use of the land itself has evolved over time. \"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta,\" said Miquel Minguet, CEO of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\"\u003EHorta Viva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E. \"We adapt the crops to the times, we change a lot, very often, just to survive.\" His company reflects this mentality, moving from farming a small organic garden near Alboraya, north of the city, to organising tomato tastings in La Huerta and running agritours around the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis culture of adaptation – in La Huerta's case, an intervention that has not only conserved but remarkably improved the existing conditions, according to FAO’s Puzzo – is seen as a potential sustainable solution to modern farming problems, and since July 2019, Valencia has been home to the \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcemas.global\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Centre for Sustainable Urban Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (CEMAS), an initiative set up with the aim of ensuring sustainable food for future generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Farmer Tony Montoliu cooking paella","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Production in La Huerta is basically intended for self-consumption and the local market,\" said Vicente Domingo, director of CEMAS. \"Thanks to its unique structure, it has managed to survive over the centuries with the efforts of generation upon generation of farmers that have preserved this land despite the pressure of urbanisation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose farmers include Tony Montoliu, who has worked a plot bordering the town of Meliana, in the north of La Huerta, since he was 12 years old. Montoliu was cultivating crops like okra and Chinese cabbage long before they became popular here and has a history of recovering seeds from species like the \u003Cem\u003Ecacau del collaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a highly regarded local peanut. \"Life as a farmer is about discovery,\" he said. \"You learn more every day because the field and the land are constantly talking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMontoliu grows what he needs for his restaurant, a traditional \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, one of the white-walled, gable-roofed thatched houses that you see dotted among the fields of La Huerta. Diners pick their own vegetables and Montoliu cooks what's required – often as part of a rabbit and chicken paella, his star dish – and then gives them any surplus to take home. It's the epitome of slow food, or \"zero metres\", as he calls it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost farmers, though, sell what they can't eat themselves at the Tira de Comptar, a wholesale market that is almost as old as the Tribunal de Aguas; or to Folgado and the other fruit and vegetable sellers in the Mercado Central, unfailingly furnishing their stalls with spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers and fat garlic bulbs. And horseshoe-shaped \u003Cem\u003Eferraura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beans – a bright green colour, but not too intense.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rows of vegetables in the Mercado Central, Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-21T23:01:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's ingenious water maze","headlineShort":"An ingenious way to feed a city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","summaryShort":"It was invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-20T23:04:53.984346Z","entity":"article","guid":"98138e27-6def-42ad-9218-a914acf0cdb1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:12.351475Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","_id":"624ec6711f4b7b4f81080ae0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is 10pm in the Madrid neighbourhood of La Latina, one of the city’s oldest areas, and the cobbled streets thrum with the sounds of people enjoying plates of \u003Cem\u003Egambas al ajillo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(garlic prawns) and \u003Cem\u003Ecocido Madrileño \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty chickpea, pork and chorizo stew). Restaurants are bustling at an hour when, in most other countries, chefs would be hanging up their aprons for the night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile travellers might attribute Spain’s late mealtimes to the country’s laidback Mediterranean attitude, the real reason is a little more peculiar. Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGlance at a map and you’ll realise that Spain – sitting, as it does, along the same longitude as the UK, Portugal and Morocco – should be in Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). But Spain goes by Central European Time (CET), putting it in sync with the Serbian capital Belgrade, more than 2,500km east of Madrid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo why are Spaniards living behind their geographic time zone?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1940, General Francisco Franco changed Spain’s time zone, moving the clocks one hour forward in solidarity with Nazi Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Spaniards, who at the time were utterly devastated by the Spanish Civil War, complaining about the change did not even cross their minds. They continued to eat at the same time, but because the clocks had changed, their 1pm lunches became 2pm lunches, and they were suddenly eating their 8pm dinners at 9pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War II ended, the clocks were never changed back. However, in 2016, Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-35995972\"\u003Eannounced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the government was working on a plan to implement a new workday schedule ending at 6pm as opposed to 8pm. One important element of the plan was evaluating the possibility of changing Spain’s time zone from CET to GMT – something that has sparked a heated discussion throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeing 60 minutes behind the correct time zone means the sun rises later and sets later, bestowing Spain with gloriously long summer evenings and 10pm sunsets. Those who run Spain’s tourist resorts believe that more sunlight is a large draw for visitors. The regional government of the Balearic Islands ‒ which include Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza ‒ is strongly against returning to GMT and has even campaigned to maintain year-round summer time (CET+1) to allow visitors to take full advantage of the region’s mild winter climate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for many Spaniards, living in the wrong time zone has resulted in sleep deprivation and decreased productivity. The typical Spanish work day begins at 9am; after a two-hour lunch break between 2 and 4pm, employees return to work, ending their day around 8pm. The later working hours force Spaniards to save their social lives for the late hours. Prime-time television doesn’t start until 10:30pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, in the northwestern region of Galicia, the sun doesn’t rise until after 9am in winter, meaning that residents are starting their day in the dark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The fact that the time in Spain doesn’t correspond to the sun affects health, especially sleep,” said José Luis Casero, president of the National Commission for the Rationalization of Spanish Schedules, an organisation that has been campaigning for Spain to return to the correct time zone since 2006. “If we changed time zones, the sun would rise one hour earlier and we’d wake up more naturally, meal times would be one hour earlier and we’d get an extra hour’s sleep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpaniards have traditionally coped with their late nights by taking a mid-morning coffee break and a two-hour lunch break, giving them the opportunity to enjoy one of the country’s most famous traditions: the siesta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn’t fit with reality.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChanging the workday would threaten Spaniards’ customary naptime, although whether or not citizens would mind is still up for debate. A January 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplelogica.com\u002Fiop\u002Fiop16020_la_siesta_entre_los_espa%C3%B1oles.asp\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by research company Simple Lógica found that less than 18% of Spaniards nap regularly, while nearly 60% never take a siesta. In fact, business owners in many of the country’s major cities and holiday resorts remain open during the midday break to cater to tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, those who do nap express frustration when changes in their daily routine prevent them from sleeping mid-day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We should really banish the siesta in Spain because it doesn’t fit with reality,” Casero said. “And with the change of time zone bringing meal times forward and giving us an extra hour of sleep, there would be less need for a rest at midday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes down to it, economist Nuria Chinchilla, an expert in work-life balance at the Instituto de Estudios Superiores de la Empresa business school in Barcelona, feels that quality of life for Spaniards is more pressing than preserving an extra hour or two of evening light for tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have continuous jetlag,” she said. “Tourism will always be there and tourists don’t care. The number of hours of sunlight will be the same, whether it is an extra hour in the morning or in the evening.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-05-08T14:17:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The real reason why Spaniards eat late","headlineShort":"The strange reason Spaniards eat late","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","summaryShort":"Spain’s famous late-night culture is not as traditional as you may think","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:00:52.985685Z","entity":"article","guid":"5377831d-ec43-49d0-bd82-dab7e76c692e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:08:11.079579Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","_id":"624ec68f1f4b7b684f78621d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith"],"bodyIntro":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStretching across the drying room in a vast, rippled expanse, the tiger nuts seemed almost like desert dunes. I'd come to Valencia towards the end of their harvesting and found the sight of this immense volume – hundreds upon thousands, perhaps even millions – impressive. Singling one out, however, I was surprised to discover a small, wrinkled form that looked distinctly less inspiring. Where tiger nuts are concerned, it turns out, appearances really are deceiving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirstly they're not actually nuts, despite being firm and brown, but tubers of the sedge plant \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And in spite of their peculiar misshapen looks, they're considered the ultimate health food. \"They're packed full of nutrients like fibre and iron, making them great for gut health, and are gluten and lactose-free too,\" said Ani de la Prida, who co-founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetigernutcompany.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tiger Nut Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016. Rumour says they even boost libido.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlso very moreish (as I've realised), with a creamy texture and sweet nutty aftertaste, tiger nuts have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodhousekeeping.com\u002Fhealth\u002Fdiet-nutrition\u002Fa20706671\u002Fhealth-benefits-of-tiger-nuts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehailed as a rising \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Good Housekeeping magazine in the US . Yet in Spain, where they're known as \"\u003Cem\u003Echufas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", these plant powerhouses have been popular for centuries – particularly in Valencia, whose beloved chufa-based drink \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dates to the 13th Century. So integral is this milky beverage to Valencian culture that, alongside cafes and ice cream parlours, it's served up in its own specialist stores known as \u003Cem\u003Ehorchaterías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk86"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Horchateria Daniel in Valencia's Colón Market","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHorchata is indelibly linked to Valencia's success in tiger nut cultivation, a practice that began in Ancient Egypt (the tubers have even been found buried in pharaohs' tombs) before spreading throughout wider North Africa; from there it was introduced into Valencia following the Muslim conquest of Hispania in 711. Cultivation took hold in L'Horta Nord, part of a vast agricultural region on the city's outskirts, known in English as \"The Orchard\". It now takes place across 19 towns in the area, where the sandy soil coupled with Valencia's temperate climate makes for ideal growing conditions. About 5.3 million kilograms of tiger nuts are produced here, 90% of which are covered by a special \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.chufadevalencia.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenomination of Origin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E status designed to regulate quality among regional products in the European Union.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpain's ingenious water maze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe vegetable outlawed by royalty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real reason why Spaniards eat late\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELegend claims that James I of Aragon, King of Valencia from 1238 to 1276, was served horchata by a young woman in the L'Horta Nord town of Alboraya. She introduced it as \"\u003Cem\u003Ellet de xufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (Valencian for \"chufa milk\"), to which he replied \"\u003Cem\u003ELlet no, això és or xata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\"(\"That's not milk, that's gold, pretty girl!\"). Tempting as the fable is, the word \"horchata\" actually stems from the Latin \u003Cem\u003Ehordeata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"of barley\": the term was originally coined for a barley-based drink but has since come to signify a range of \"plant milk\" beverages across the world, also including versions such as Mexico's \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de arroz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice). Regardless, inspired by the tale of Valencia's enthusiastic king, \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de chufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is still affectionally nicknamed \"white gold\" to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI tried my first glass in the city's Colón Market, a striking Art Nouveau edifice that recalls renowned Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí, and instantly could see the appeal. Sweet, cool and refreshing, it's essentially like drinking tiger nuts – after all, the only other primary ingredient is water – and contains all their nutritional properties to boot. The only caveat was the extra sugar, something I'd argue isn't needed but is a popular addition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk15"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tiger nut crops in front of Alquería El Machistre in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Valencians have a sweet tooth,\" laughed Toni Peinado, co-owner at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhorchateria-daniel.es\u002F\"\u003EHorchatería Daniel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in whose second branch I was sitting. Arguably Valencia's most famous horchatería company, it was founded by Alboraya-born Daniel Tortajada, one of the first people to start selling horchata, in 1949: previously, perhaps because tiger nut cultivation was too labour-intensive before the widespread use of machinery, it had largely been a non-commercial drink made in homes for family events and festive days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter selling horchata from his house and the local market, Tortajada launched his first standalone premise in 1979 on what would come to be known as the Avenida de la Horchata (Horchata Avenue), a road connecting Valencia and the nearby town of Alboraya. He was also instrumental in founding the Association of Artisan Horchata Makers, becoming its first president and soliciting Denomination of Origin status for the region's tiger nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, two more generations of Tortajadas have taken the reins of the business, which has received everyone from surrealist artist Salvador Dalí to actor Vigo Mortensen throughout its illustrious history. Now, also encompassing two Valencia sites alongside its Alboraya flagship store, the brand has continued its enterprising spirit with a diverse range of tiger nut products spanning cosmetics to bakery goods. The latter is particularly apt as it was founder Daniel, Peinado told me, who inspired the custom of accompanying horchata with \u003Cem\u003Efartons\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – long, spongy buns designed for dunking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise,\" he said, \"much like with the British and their tea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjvt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fartons laid out at Horchateria Santa Catalina in Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the inventor of horchata de chufa is unknown, 13th-Century records show a comparable drink being made near Valencia: it's clearly imbued with history and tradition, and the same can be said for the L'Horta region in which tiger nuts are farmed. Listed as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Feurope-and-central-asia\u002Fhistorical-waterscape-of-lhorta-de-valencia\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"The Orchard\" is famed for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eancient Arabic irrigation system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which sees farmers don black dress and gather weekly for the Water Court, a Unesco-inscribed practice dating back more than 1,000 years – and is the birthplace of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eesmorzaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Valencian \"mid-morning snack\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis melange of paddies and plantations just outside of Valencia is also home to distinctive regional architecture, from humble \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E farmhouses with steeply pitched roofs to \u003Cem\u003Ealquerías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the grand country residences typically occupied by wealthy landowners. It's one of these, Alquería El Machistre, that houses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.comunitatvalenciana.com\u002Fen\u002Fvalencia\u002Falboraia-alboraya\u002Fmuseums\u002Fmuseo-de-la-horchata\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: based near the town of Alboraya in the chufa stronghold of L'Horta Nord, it opened in 2007 and can be visited by appointment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisits  include a tour of the 11th-Century alquería itself, a sprawling white-washed manor whose largely 18th-Century interior reflects historical local trades like silk and ceramics. When I arrived on an unusually overcast day, I was led round by affable guide Victoria Buzón before heading to the horchata museum, situated in a small but information-packed room with adjoining interior courtyard. Here, I learned that the tiger nut plant likely originated in West Africa, where it was used in medicinal potions. \"Nowadays, West Africa has its own versions of horchata de chufa,\" said Buzón, \"though its chufas are bigger and have less flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuzón also explained how tiger nuts are cultivated in L'Horta Nord. It's a slow, meticulous process that begins with planting between March and May, when temperatures are gentler with lots of humidity. Tubers are then collected from November to January with a harvester, after which the ground is burned to manage further spread: considered an invasive species (and a weed in much of the world), \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be carefully managed. Once washed, the tiger nuts are dried for about three months in specially ventilated buildings known as \"\u003Cem\u003Ecambras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" before being manually sorted to remove any damaged specimens or impurities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjsc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"B&W photo of men harvesting tiger nuts in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, making horchata is relatively straightforward: cleansed tiger nuts are soaked for eight to 12 hours before being ground and added to water. Next, the macerated mixture is pressed and sifted to create the final extract, to which sugar is usually added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet within this deceptively simple concoction lie millennia of painstaking labour and royal legends, Pharaonic burials and age-old traditions. Stir in tiger nuts' extensive health benefits and it's easy to see how this potent Valencian super-drink really can be considered \"white gold\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-25T00:14:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","headlineShort":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","image":["p0bqwk9r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqwmh7"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","summaryShort":"This sweet, milky beverage is gluten-free and nutritionally dense","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","entity":"article","guid":"e6871a28-806a-4166-8132-3de1f0e724e9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","_id":"624ec6a51f4b7b35375006d9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENothing in modern memory has changed city life quite like Covid has. From the closure of city-centre offices to mask mandates to restaurant restrictions, pandemic precautions have transformed the landscape of cities across the world, likely for the long term. In fact, the pandemic is the first of its scale to happen to us as an \"urbanised\" species. When the Spanish Flu hit in the early 1900s, only 14% of humans lived in cities, but today that figure has risen to 57%, according to estimates by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpopulation.un.org\u002Fwup\u002FArchive\u002FFiles\u002Fstudies\u002FUnited%20Nations%20(1969)%20-%20Growth%20of%20the%20World's%20Urban%20and%20Rural%20Population,%201920-2000.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUN Population Division\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, cities have had to become even more vigilant in terms of health protections and overall security to better protect their populations. To clarify what changes have led to higher safety, the Economist Intelligence Unit recently released the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsafecities.economist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2021 Safe Cities Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 60 cities based on 76 safety indicators across infrastructure, digital life, personal security, environmental factors and, of course, health – with pandemic preparedness and Covid-19 mortality included this year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose ranked at the top of the index – including Copenhagen, Toronto, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo – all had factors that illustrate how overall safety correlates to a strong sense of social cohesion, total population inclusion and societal trust. We talked to residents in these cities to see how the changes wrought by the pandemic have made their cities more secure, inclusive and resilient; and what travellers still need to know to stay safe when they're finally able to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing in park at sunset, Copenhagen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECopenhagen\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked at the top of the index, Denmark's capital ranked particularly well due to the index's new environmental security pillar, which measures sustainability (including renewable energy incentives), air quality, waste management and urban forest cover. The latter absolutely had an impact in how well the city and its residents were able to cope with pandemic restrictions, which have been completely lifted as of September 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The parks and green areas as well as waterways were extremely popular during the pandemic. Copenhageners were strolling around buying takeaway and enjoying the city's many breathing spaces,\" said resident Asbjørn Overgaard, CEO of non-profit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copcap.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECopenhagen Capacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The city also continues to provide \"Corona-guides\" to assist people, as well as extensive signage and clear markings to create space between groups outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe community spirit of the country, best summed up in the Danish word \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, also enables citizens of the country to work together and trust each other — including government officials – to create a safer living environment. The Safe Cities Index found a high correlation between control of corruption and safer cities, so it's no surprise that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fcpi\u002F2020\u002Findex\u002Fnzl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenmark's ranking as one of the world's least corrupt countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has enabled its citizens to trust its institutions and each other throughout the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECopenhagen also implemented a massive Covid testing programme, which remains free for everyone, including tourists. The data gathered allows for the detailed monitoring of outbreaks; in addition, the city will be implementing wastewater testing to catch outbreaks early.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People boating in Lake Ontario, Toronto, with cityscape behind","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EToronto\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECanada's largest city ranked a close second in the index in overall safety, with strong scores in infrastructure and environmental security. Residents credit an inclusive culture that values targeted communication across communities, especially when it comes to vaccine awareness and adoption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToronto resident Farida Talaat points to how the city initiated a number of community-specific vaccination programmes to help make the city safer. For instance, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fwith-more-than-65-per-cent-of-homebound-residents-vaccinated-team-toronto-vaccination-partners-launch-homebound-sprint-to-complete-first-doses\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Homebound Sprint Vaccination\u003C\u002Fa\u003E plan worked to complete first doses for residents who couldn't leave their homes; and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcity-of-toronto-unveils-the-black-community-covid-19-response-plan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Scientists' Task Force on Vaccine Equity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was established early in the vaccination effort to ensure a more equity-based approach to inoculation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECountries with the most resilient economies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe single word that connects Denmark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's next superpowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals also feel safe because of the city's long history of multiculturalism. \"In Toronto, it is normal to be born outside Canada. I've found that different ethnic and cultural groups actually interact with each other and do not live in silos,\" said Filipe Vernaza, who has lived in the city since 1998. \"A typical group of people likely has people from different ethnicities, sexual orientations and religions. Toronto is an extremely open-minded city where you can feel safe being who you are.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Merlion statue on waterfront at Merlion Park and city buildings in Singapore","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanking second in digital security, health security and infrastructure security, Singapore used those strengths to move fast during the early days of the pandemic, rolling out digital monitoring and contact tracing quickly. The country also boasts one of the world's highest vaccination rates (currently at 80%), but still requires strict monitoring and contact tracing in the face of new variants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Before they can enter the buildings or premises, all residents need to scan their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETraceTogether\u003C\u002Fa\u003E token or phone app for SafeEntry check-ins,\" said Singapore resident Sam Lee, who runs an eponymous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.samleetravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etravel blog\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"This allows the [authorities] to track down individuals who might have mingled or interacted with the infected ones quickly so that a quarantine order can be carried out to contain or break the virus transmission link.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers also need to install the TraceTogether token or rent a phone with it installed before they get into the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWorking from home has become standard across most workplaces to reduce interactions, which Lee notes has led to less crowded public transportation. Tourist attractions and shopping malls have limited entrances, and \"Safe Distancing Ambassadors'' monitor crowds to ensure the public complies with health orders; individuals who break them face hefty fines. The public can also track crowds at malls, post offices and grocery stores with the newly launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spaceout.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpace Out tool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESydney\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia's largest city scored fifth overall in the index, and in the top 10 for health security. Australia was one of the first countries to completely shut its borders during the pandemic and has maintained strict lockdowns in the face of rising cases – to positive effect. The per capita Covid death rate in Australia continues to be one of the lowest in the world. As vaccinations reach \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58496667\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E70% in New South Wales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of those restrictions are expected to lift and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58757888\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternational borders are set to open\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in November.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlong with feeling protected from the pandemic, residents have long felt a strong sense of personal safety in the streets of Sydney. \"I have truly never felt as safe in a country as I have living in Sydney,\" said Chloe Scorgie, founder of Australian travel website \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpassportdownunder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPassport Down Under\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who first moved to Sydney in 2018. \"I travelled around Sydney as a solo female traveller and never felt like I was in any danger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city also ranked number one in digital security, which includes a city's privacy policy, cybersecurity protections and threats and overall smart city plan. Sydney has led this effort in part with its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au\u002Fstrategies-action-plans\u002Fsmart-city-strategic-framework\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESmart City strategic framework\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which outlines some of the innovations recommended for more connected, safer cities. For instance, the plan outlines how smart sensors could be placed in waste bins, streetlamps and benches to collect information on overall usage, transportation flows and pedestrian activity. Similarly, smart lighting and CCTV networks could improve after-dark safety and the night-time economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of these ideas are already being put to work in south Sydney in the form of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.georgesriver.nsw.gov.au\u002FCouncil\u002FAbout-Your-Council\u002FSmart-Cities\u002FSmart-ChillOUT-Hubs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChillOUT hubs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: open-air spaces where residents can meet up under smart lighting, connect to WiFi and plug in electronics, with data on usage sent back to city leaders so they can better understand and adapt to how their citizens interact with the city's infrastructure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two women wearing masks wipe and disinfect café counter in Tokyo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETokyo\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJapan's capital ranked fifth in the overall index and at the very top of the health security index, which measures factors like universal healthcare, pandemic preparedness, life expectancy, mental health and Covid-19 mortality. Though cases surged during the Olympics, rates have fallen dramatically as vaccinations have reached nearly 60% of the population. In light of the positive news, Japan announced the end of the federal state of emergency and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcoronavirus-pandemic-sports-lifestyle-business-2020-tokyo-olympics-9ac68d89a4124116a0a8d6cfc5e48eb7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egradual lifting of restrictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as of the end of September 2021. In their place, the country plans to encourage the use of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2021\u002F07\u002F22\u002Fnational\u002Fvaccine-passports-explainer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evaccine passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for admittance to medical facilities and large events, and even encourage businesses to offer discounts or coupons to passport holders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETokyo also scored in the top five for its infrastructure security, which includes transport safety, pedestrian friendliness and transportation networks. As a walkable city connected by rail, Tokyo was built to encourage walking and community engagement – which has, in turn, led to a stronger citizen participation in security in the forms of neighbourhood crime prevention and watches, and a shared sense of responsibility for crime prevention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the various lost-and-found centres at train stations to the almost unnecessary bike locks, there's an immense amount of respect towards the wellbeing of others,\" said Sena Chang, Tokyo resident and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theglobalyouthreview.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Global Youth Review\u003C\u002Fa\u003E magazine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe recalls a time she lost her shopping bag in the heart of the city, only to find it in the same place she had left it, along with a kind note. \"A centuries-long culture of collectivism and a great amount of respect for each other makes Tokyo the safest city I've lived in,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-07T20:09:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's five safest cities post-pandemic","headlineShort":"The world's safest cities in 2021","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.6761","longitude":"12.5683","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","summaryShort":"Covid-19 has forced cities to re-evaluate what security means for urban life","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-06T20:09:39.15459Z","entity":"article","guid":"91abeff3-e56a-4c6d-9448-7d741aa832a3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T01:51:13.751987Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","_id":"624ec6781f4b7b549a4784a7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. China\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. India\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. Indonesia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Brazil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Russia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Mexico\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Japan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. Germany\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. UK\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESee the full list here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 economies in 2050, according to PwC’s The World in 2050 report","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrexit, coronavirus, and trade tiffs may be making economic headwinds, but despite immediate challenges, the world economy is projected to keep growing at a rapid pace over the next few decades. In fact, by 2050, the global market is projected to double its current size, even as the UN forecasts the world’s population will only grow by a modest 26%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis growth will bring with it plenty of changes. Though it can be challenging to predict exactly how the future will unfold, most economists agree on one thing: today’s developing markets will be tomorrow’s economic superpowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World in 2050\u003C\u002Fa\u003E report by international professional services firm PwC, in 30 years, six of the seven of the world’s largest economies will be today’s emerging economies, surpassing the US (dropping from 2nd to 3rd), Japan (dropping from 4th to 8th) and Germany (dropping from 5th to 9th). Even relativelysmaller economies like Vietnam, the Philippines and Nigeria will see huge leaps in their respective rankings over the next three decades, according to the report.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190818-whats-it-like-to-live-in-an-over-touristed-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat's it like to live in an overtouristed city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190630-five-countries-on-the-frontline-of-tech\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries on the frontline of tech\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving in a country that thinks green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe spoke to residents living in five countries with hyper-growth potential to find out how they’re navigating the rapid changes already occurring, what benefits come with living in these places and the challenges they face as their countries climb the rankings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChina\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs measured by GDP by purchasing power parity (PPP), which adjusts for price level differences across countries, China already has the largest economy in the world. The Asian behemoth has seen massive economic gains over the past decade, but economists promise that it is just the tip of the iceberg for what the future holds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe big economic changes are happening right in front of residents’ eyes. “My home for the last few years, the Industrial Park of Suzhou, is a glittering urban paradise of shopping malls, parks, restaurants and traffic. But when I first came to China [15 years ago], the whole area was swamp and farmland,” said Rowan Kohll, author of the \u003Cspan\u003E1-Minute Chinese\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E books.“This is a very common story in China. The whole country is changing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe changes are attracting a brand-new set of entrepreneurs and others looking for financial opportunity amid the seemingly unstoppable growth. China’s largest city, Shanghai, is where many newcomers make their start.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EShanghai is an entrepreneurial and very commercially minded city,” said American John Pabon, founder of Shanghai-based \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fulcrum22.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFulcrum Strategic Advisors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “From the early-morning traders at the wet markets to honking motorbikes at traffic lights to late nights in the office, everyone is here to get ahead.” But unlike New York City, where Pabon lived previously and found people usually held their cards close to their chest, residents here are “always willing to listen and provide sound advice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn order to work and live here, however, expats must learn Mandarin. “It’s no longer a nice-to-have in China,” Pabon said. “Without Mandarin, you’re going to find your options pretty limited for work and in social and cultural circles, and you may not even be allowed in at all.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIndia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe world’s second-most-populous country is expected to see massive growth over the next three decades, averaging 5% growth in GDP per year, according to the report – making it one of the fastest-growing economies in the world. By 2050, India is projected to be the world’s second-largest economy (overtaking the United States) and will account for 15% of the world’s total GDP. The positive outcomes of that growth have already started to make an impact for residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“From the end of 20th Century and start of 21st, I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes,” said native Saurabh Jindal, who runs the app \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftalktravelapp.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETalk Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The economy growing has led to manifold changes in people’s lifestyles, from the vibes in the city to the attitudes in society and eventually the overall walk and talk of the country and its inhabitants.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, there has been a “major upgrade” in the quality of televisions, mobile phones and car brands over the past 15 years, he said, while air travel has become increasingly accessible, and houses have become “more posh and rich”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe improvements haven’t come without challenges, though. Infrastructure spending has lagged, even as more cars take to the streets; and a lack of regulation enforcement has led to increased pollution levels, especially in urban centres like New Delhi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe growth also hasn’t always reached every citizen equality. “There are some sections of the society [that] are still living a very low quality of life,” said Jindal. “You can see slums next to high-rise buildings.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe attitudes toward women here also frustrate residents, as the country continues to grapple with an ongoing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-43782471\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erape and sexual harassment crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “A country’s growth is measured by how much it respects the rights of its citizens, so we still have a long way to go,” said Namita Kulkarni, who lives in Mysore and blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fradicallyeverafter.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadically Ever After\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Until women are safe in public spaces, no amount of ‘economic growth’ means a whit.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKulkarni recommends expats do their research before moving here, especially because the various parts of the county can be so different from each other. “Each state has its own unique languages, culture, cuisine and traditions,” she said. “The north-eastern states are my personal favourite.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents also advise not trying to replicate the creature comforts of home, but rather tune into how the country works. “Adapt to India,” said Jindal. “India will not adapt to you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBrazil\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis South American powerhouse is set to be the world’s fifth-largest economy by 2050, overtaking Japan, Germany and Russia in the process. With an abundance of natural resources, Brazil has grown its economy rapidly in the past few decades, but faces challenges as it struggles to control government corruption and inflation that has plagued the country in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I witnessed all the euphoria regarding the economy in the late 2000s and early 2010s. A new middle class emerged in Brazil, and the country as a whole was feeling proud of this new, hard-earned reputation,” said Caio Bersot, who was born in Brazil. “But at the same time, large cities like Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo grew more unaffordable. It got to a point that it felt like Brazil was growing faster than it should. There weren’t enough trade corridors, rail lines, roads and ports to keep up with all that growth.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of the challenges have enabled Brazil to be an early adopter of technology. “In many developing countries, high growth translates to high inflation. As a result of the high cost of protecting cash against inflation, Brazil became a fintech pioneer,” said intercultural strategist Annalisa Nash Fernandez, who previously lived in Sao Paulo. “Paypal and Venmo equivalents have been the daily routine in Brazil for 20-plus years, even before smartphones, via an ATM.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA 2016 recession hit the country hard, but the economy is showing some signs of re-growth, and with a new presidential administration inaugurated last year, 2020 is posed to be a “make-or-break” year for Brazil, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-brazil-economy-2020-analysis\u002Fbrazil-economic-stars-align-turning-2020-into-make-or-break-year-idUSKBN1YG1T7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to Reuters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The country still faces economic challenges but is definitely working towards a bright future,” said native Silvana Frappier. “Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing, and it has a strong and rapidly growing service sector. I’m also seeing an increase in tourism investment.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of the state of the economy, newcomers are typically welcomed here, especially if they learn the language. “Brazil is a very friendly country that loves to welcome foreigners. Brazilians are less individualists and more social people. They love when a foreigner shows interest in their culture and language,” said Frappier. “Learning Portuguese will make you feel right at home.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMexico\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy 2050, Mexico is poised to become the world’s seventh-largest economy, jumping up four spots from its current 11th place in the rankings. A focus on manufacturing and exports have driven much of its growth in recent years, though current economic conditions have hampered potential gains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“For the past 10 years, Mexico’s economy has grown, but not as much as I thought it would and definitely not as much as it could,” said travel blogger Federico Arrizabalaga, who lives in Puerto Vallarta. “The price of gasoline has doubled in the last eight years [and] the Mexican peso’s value has dropped around 50% versus the US dollar in the past 10 years. But if you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well, and your money still goes a long way compared to more expensive countries.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHealthcare and transportation are notably more affordable here than they are in the US, Canada and Europe. “I was just in Mexico City and the cost of an Uber to go anywhere in the city was about US$4 to $10 [approx. £3 to £8],” said American Suzan Haskins, senior editor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finternationalliving.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who currently lives in Merida, Yucatan. As with many developing economies, infrastructure and road conditions can be challenging, but the government just unveiled a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-mexico-infrastructure\u002Fmexico-to-spend-44-billion-on-infrastructure-in-first-phase-of-plan-idUSKBN1Y01UQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$44bn infrastructure investment\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to Reuters, to be spent over the next four years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach region of Mexico is very distinct in terms of climate and culture, so residents advise new expats to do their research and visit different cities before relocating. That said, the local hospitality makes fitting in a lot easier, especially when it comes to learning Spanish, a definite must.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People here will go out of their way to help you over communication hurdles,” said Haskins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENigeria\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Africa’s largest economies, Nigeria is poised to grow by leaps and bounds by 2050, at an average of 4.2% year-on-year, rising eight places from 22nd to 14thin the rankings. While the government has struggled with corruption, residents have an entrepreneurial attitude that keeps pushing the country forward. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fprofile\u002FOndrej_Dvoulety\u002Fpublication\u002F329512319_Entrepreneurial_Activity_and_Its_Determinants_Findings_from_African_Developing_Countries\u002Flinks\u002F5c0bcbc4299bf139c74826f2\u002FEntrepreneurial-Activity-and-Its-Determinants-Findings-from-African-Developing-Countries.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Entrepreneurship Monitor data\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, more than 30% of Nigerian residents are new entrepreneurs or the owner-manager of a new business, among the highest rate in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air,” said Nigerian native Colette Otusheso, CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facceleratetv.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAccelerate TV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who lives in Lagos. “Nigerians are hard workers and it almost comes naturally for us to be working on several things at once, which means there is always something going on.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven the country’s challenges, like minimal public transportation, have segued into business opportunities. “We now have an app very similar to Uber for \u003Cem\u003Eokadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (motorbike transport), which is the most used form of transport in Nigeria but in the past has not been very reliable,” said Otusheso. “Now we can track okada drivers and locations just as you do for transport and deliveries with Uber.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResidents mostly feel positive about the county’s future but are wary of government corruption and foreign investment. “We need to be careful what country we take money from, who we allow to help us improve our infrastructure and what strings are attached to it,” said Nigerian native Chizoba Anyaoha, Founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travsolo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravSolo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noting their history of other nations taking advantage of their natural resources and raw materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENewcomers should settle in Lagos or Abuja, both big cities with good schools and great nightlife and food. Just like any big city, street smarts are key. “The best way to acclimate here is to know someone currently living here you trust,” said Anyaoha. “It is quite easy to identify expats, making them easy targets. Keep a low profile, take precautions, always be aware of your surroundings and the people in it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it’s like to reside in some of the world’s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-23T20:27:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Five superpowers ruling the world in 2050","headlineShort":"The world’s next superpowers","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","summaryShort":"These five countries will shape the future of the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:46:23.488383Z","entity":"article","guid":"95b2ff41-6901-484d-b216-b9a83a74444e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:06:14.851178Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","_id":"624ec67c1f4b7b198c29b37f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the pandemic, the United Arab Emirates has been one of the most resilient in the face of changing Covid variants, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fourworldindata.org\u002Fcovid-vaccinations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's highest vaccination rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and extensive, affordable testing. In fact, the UAE is currently ranked number one in Bloomberg's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fgraphics\u002Fcovid-resilience-ranking\u002F?sref=d39KtWbu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovid Resilience ranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 53 countries on 12 indicators like healthcare quality, virus mortality and reopening travel. Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to the pandemic, its most populous city, Dubai, has also transformed itself from a global tourism hub into one more invested in its own community. \"We all had to work together to protect each other,\" said Kathy Johnston, chief chocolate officer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmirzam.com\u002F\"\u003EMirzam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chocolate company, who has lived in the city for more than 30 years. \"People are supporting more local concepts and projects with authenticity behind them. Things are moving a little slower and more considerately. Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the weather is perfect right now, say residents. \"October to May is the best time of year to visit because it's not excruciatingly hot anymore,\" said Dubai resident Tala Mohamad. That also has meant the return of outdoor events and activities and leisurely evenings spent on the city's numerous patio and rooftop seaside lounges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is also hosting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpo 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until the end of March 2022, a global six-month event featuring pavilions from all over the world, showcasing unique innovations and futuristic projects. \"Don't miss [the] Expo. Just don't,\" said Johnston. \"Give yourself a whole week. Wait three hours in line for Japanese sushi and enjoy the date pudding with dukkah at [on-site restaurant] \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Fwhere-to-eat\u002Fbaron\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and dream under the stars at the Australian pavilion.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDubai has worked diligently over the past decade to become more sustainable, with major investments in solar energy, water conservation and green building and infrastructure. Expo 2020 is also hosting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Funderstanding-expo\u002Fsustainability-district\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESustainability Pavilion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, showcasing projects like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002F20200121-sustainability-pavilion-canopy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolar trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that provide shade while creating energy and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thenationalnews.com\u002Fuae\u002Fexpo-2020\u002F2021\u002F09\u002F14\u002Fdutch-pavilions-vertical-farm-produces-first-vegetables-at-expo-2020-dubai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehuge vertical farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E growing 9,000 plants and herbs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar trees at the Sustainability Pavilion Expo 2020 Dubai","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe pandemic unexpectedly created a boom in chefs engaging with local ingredients and talent, said Johnston, with a handful of new spaces opening up in the past two years. Some of her favourites include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\"\u003EOrfali Bro's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its Arabic inspirations; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftresindstudio.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETresind Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its upscale dinner and breakfast; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebarn.de\u002Fpages\u002Fthe-barn-dubai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Barn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E speciality coffee bar and next-door \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fhapi.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHAPI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for their sweet potato pancakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a unique take mixing Japanese inspiration with local produce, Mohamad recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moon-rise.xyz\u002Fpages\u002Fabout\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoonrise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the rooftop of Eden House and its \u003Cem\u003Eomakase\u003C\u002Fem\u003E menu. \"For example, one dish is \u003Cem\u003Echutoro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Spain with honey from Ras Al Khaimah [the emirate 100km north-east of Dubai],\" she said. With just eight seats, it's usually fully booked so reserve in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResident Vibha Dhawan, a travel advisor with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ovationtravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOvation Travel Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboca.ae\u002F\"\u003EBoca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which uses local ingredients like salmon from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fishfarm.ae\u002F\"\u003EUAE's Fish Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and milk from local camel dairies; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fthesumofusdubai\u002F\"\u003EThe Sum of Us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cafes in Dubai to become eco-friendly by using avocado seed straws and offering 10% off to customers who bring a reusable takeaway cup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a more in-depth look at the city's sustainability initiatives, Dhawan recommends checking out the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.emiratesbiofarm.com\u002F\"\u003EEmirates Bio Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest private organic farm in the country. \"Book a group tour and sunset session,\" she said. \"This gives you an in-depth visit around the acres of land followed by the chance to harvest your own vegetables. They also offer pop-up dining experiences throughout the year.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the natural desert of the region, she recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fdxbam-al-maha-a-luxury-collection-desert-resort-and-spa-dubai\u002F\"\u003EAl Maha resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Located within \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20110321-dubais-first-national-park\"\u003EDubai's first national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the five-star resort is dedicated to preserving the unique ecology of the desert, including the endangered Arabian oryx. A herd of 300, the largest in Arabia, now roams freely after decades of conservation efforts. On-site field guides give guided wildlife tours on foot, 4X4, camel and horseback.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A farmworker harvests peppers at Emirates Bio Farm in Al Ain, United Arab Emirates","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an experience in the heart of the city, the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.25hours-hotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotels\u002Fdubai\u002Fone-central\"\u003E25hours One Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotel, which opened in December 2021, celebrates the country's traditions by immersing visitors in theme of \u003Cem\u003Ehakawati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Arabic for storytelling. The experience starts in the lobby with the circular \"Fountain of Tales\" library with more than 5,000 books, topped with rotating art from local artists, and continues throughout the hotel with Bedouin-inspired art and décor, a tribute to both ancient and modern nomads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Omicron variant has travel restrictions changing rapidly, so check the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003EUAE Travel to Dubai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E page for the latest notices and requirements. Currently, travel is open to vaccinated tourists with a WHO-approved vaccine, though visitors must undergo a rapid test on arrival. Unvaccinated travellers must provide a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. Travel is currently suspended for those coming from or transiting through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003Ecertain African countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must download the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Fsmart-solutions-to-fight-covid-19\u002Fthe-alhosn-uae-app\"\u003EAl Hosn app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the UAE's official contact tracing and health status app, which uses a colour-coded system (grey, red, green) to reflect test results and vaccination status. The Dubai Health Authority offers the DXB Smart app, available for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=ae.gov.dha.covid19\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fapp\u002Fcovid19-dxb-smart-app\u002Fid1504818399\"\u003EiOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gives visitors real-time information about UAE's current Covid rates, tracks test results and exposures, and is used to show vaccination status within the emirate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fas-the-world-opens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAs the World Opens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlights the latest destinations opening their borders and explores the exciting things travellers can do there – safely and sustainably.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-06T22:06:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why is this country so resilient?","headlineShort":"Why is this country so resilient?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"25.2048","longitude":"55.2708","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","summaryShort":"It has managed to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-05T22:07:18.553104Z","entity":"article","guid":"06ce894b-75d2-462a-8da6-da95220ccf11","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:09:07.927137Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries","_id":"624ec68f1f4b7b6b6d5a41af","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"With international travel opening up again, travellers may find more security visiting countries with a strong track record of adjusting their policies appropriately and swiftly.","businessUnit":"public service","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn ongoing pandemic, global conflict and general uncertainty have put a spotlight on every country's need to be more agile and adaptable in recent years. By being able to implement flexible policies and solutions based on new information, governments can more effectively serve citizens and travellers in a rapidly changing world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo capture this ability to adapt and respond to obstacles, US News & World Report introduced the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usnews.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbest-countries\u002Frankings\u002Fagility\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgility index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this year as part of their annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usnews.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbest-countries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebest countries rankings\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, creating a list of the top nations ranked by their ability to be adaptable, dynamic, modern, progressive or responsive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese factors are more important than ever to travellers, many who are starting to travel internationally again for the first time in two years. As seen by the stream of new Covid-19 variants, conditions on the ground can shift rapidly and travellers may find more security visiting those countries with a strong track record of adjusting their policies appropriately and swiftly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe spoke to residents and policy experts in some of the most highly ranked countries to find out what makes for an agile country and what travellers should expect when touching down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by8122"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe United States\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked at the top of the Agility index, the US may not have implemented a federally mandated lockdown like many other Western countries, but its market-driven economy enabled an adaptability that spurred quick innovation in the face of the Covid-19 crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Look at how fast delivery services and restaurants were able to alter their businesses, delivering food to people's homes,\" said John Rose, a California resident and chief risk and security officer for travel company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.altour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAltour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"There wasn't a lot of unnecessary regulation saying that restaurants can't deliver food or can't operate with just a handful of people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's five safest cities, post pandemic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is this country so resilient?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive superpowers ruling the world in 2050\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe food industry was just a microcosm of the flexibility of the country overall, said Rose, as other businesses were able to quickly adapt to the pandemic landscape, whether it was producing masks or hand sanitiser, or enabling technology like video conferencing to allow people to work from home more efficiently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDifferent states were able to enact wildly different policies depending on their specific needs as well, which created 50 unique ways to respond to the pandemic. \"California and Florida handled the pandemic in polar opposite ways, with California having extreme lockdowns and Florida balking at every restriction,\" said Rose. \"And yet both their economies did really well. It came down to strong leadership of a policy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the national level, mask mandates in airplanes and airports enabled travellers to continue travelling here with confidence as well, which kept travel and its economic benefits open throughout the pandemic. The government still requires \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cdc.gov\u002Fcoronavirus\u002F2019-ncov\u002Ftravelers\u002Fnoncitizens-US-air-travel.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternational travellers to be fully vaccinated\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers should know that vaccine rates among residents vary widely by state and even county, with some cities having a much higher vaccination rate and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211104-four-us-cities-ready-to-welcome-back-travellers-safely\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereadiness to welcome visitors back safely\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Rose recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcovid.cdc.gov\u002Fcovid-data-tracker\u002F#county-view\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echecking the county you're visiting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E rather than at the state levels, for the most accurate information.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by811k"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia, ranked second overall in the Agility index, with its strongest scores in responsiveness and adaptability, took a very different approach to the US, implementing strict lockdowns that kept the island nation's caseloads at worldwide lows. In the face of the later waves of Covid, however, the country quickly moved from an elimination strategy to reopening completely, based on a nearly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.health.gov.au\u002Finitiatives-and-programs\u002Fcovid-19-vaccines\u002Fnumbers-statistics\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E95% vaccination rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E among adults 16 and older.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Australians now feel reconnected to the world after nearly two years of isolation,\" said Kate Slater, a strategy consultant and travel writer based in Sydney, who writes at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkateabroad.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKate Abroad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She also notes the country implements a state\u002Fterritory response, giving multiple different approaches in how to handle the ongoing challenges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Australians now feel reconnected to the world after nearly two years of isolation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs an example, New South Wales, the biggest state with the largest airport, announced in December 2021 that it would remove isolation requirements for international visitors, which led the federal government to speed up \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-60284491\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ere-opening international borders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in February 2022 for vaccinated travellers. Travellers should check the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.homeaffairs.gov.au\u002Fcovid19\u002Fvaccinated-travellers\u002Ftemporary-visa-holders\u002Fentering-transiting-australia\u002Fstate-territory-arrival-requirements\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estate and territorial arrival requirements\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as each may be different and can change on short notice. The country also just announced the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fminister.homeaffairs.gov.au\u002FKarenAndrews\u002FPages\u002Fcruise-ships-ban-to-end-April-17.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elifting of its ban on cruise arrivals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as of 17 April 2022, though passengers will still be required to be vaccinated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe country's strict lockdowns did encourage locals to travel domestically, which created a boom in new openings in less touristy regional destinations. \"For instance, in the Southern Highlands in New South Wales, historic manor houses have transformed into boutique hotels,\" said Slater. \"It's become Australia's answer to the Cotswolds.\" She recommends hotels \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fosbornhouse.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOsborn House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berrimavaulthouse.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerrima Vault House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbriars.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBriars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the new regional art gallery \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fngununggula.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENgununggula\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by810q"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESouth Korea\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanking sixth overall in the Agility index – and scoring high on its ability to be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usnews.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbest-countries\u002Frankings\u002Fdynamic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edynamic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a place of constant change and energy) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usnews.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbest-countries\u002Frankings\u002Fprogressive\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprogressive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E –\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003ESouth Korea received accolades early in the pandemic for keeping its case counts low, with aggressive testing and isolation for the infected. Yet, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F17\u002Fworld\u002Fasia\u002Fcoronavirus-south-korea.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecases now hitting record numbers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the country continues to move forward with its plan to roll back many restrictions, confident in the collective vaccination rate and its ability to handle hospital load.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"South Korea was a 'success story' fighting against the Covid-19 pandemic in key part due to previous experiences from SARS in 2003 and MERS in 2015,\" said Hyesong Ha, assistant professor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgspp.nu.edu.kz\u002Fen\u002Fhome\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENazarbayev University Graduate School of Public Policy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who conducted research on the most agile governments during the pandemic. \"Due to experience and knowledge gained from the past policy failures, the Korean government implemented quick tests, tracing and treatments, and established KCDC (Korean Center for Disease Control and Prevention), an agile headquarters with professionalism, independence and authority to coordinate crisis response.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravel restrictions were a challenging but necessary part of their policy, according to Jenny Ly, who writes about travel at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgowanderly.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGo Wanderly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But she took advantage by immersing herself in travel within the country itself. \"I used the opportunity to find hidden gems that most people might have missed,\" she said. One of her favourites was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkorean.visitseoul.net\u002Fattractions\u002F%EC%9D%B4%ED%99%94%EB%B2%BD%ED%99%94%EB%A7%88%EC%9D%84_\u002F848\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIhwa Mural Village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Seoul, where bright, colourful paintings adorn nearly every wall. \"The village is a heaven on Earth for any admirer of art as it hosts numerous captivating murals, small art museums and art centres,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInternational visitors will have an easier time travelling here now, since as of 1 April 2022 vaccinated travellers qualify for mandatory seven-day quarantine exemption by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcov19ent.kdca.go.kr\u002Fcpassportal\u002Fbiz\u002Fbeffatstmnt\u002Fmain.do;jsessionid=5g7t4L54G_-kkj5ElSOvzrjcnmHzSvxhifdBTMcj.prd-cpass-was92?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eregistering their vaccination history online\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by810b"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBelgium\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPlacing 16th in Agility overall, Belgium's high performance in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fusnews.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbest-countries\u002Frankings\u002Fadaptable\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eadaptability subranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (coming in fourth) outranked all of its European counterparts. Residents pride themselves on their ability to adapt, a cultural necessity after its history of occupation by the Romans, French, Dutch and Germans, pointing to its multilingual society and its ability to play host to the European Union in its capital of Brussels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Looking for compromise and adapting to the ever-changing situations is in our DNA","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Belgium is a country of dialogue and compromise, inevitable when you have different languages and such a complex political structure,\" said resident Jurga Rubinovaite, founder of the family travel blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffullsuitcase.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFull Suitcase\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Looking for compromise and adapting to the ever-changing situations is in our DNA.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERubinovaite felt like the politicians were good at listening to advice, admitting they didn't know everything and learning from mistakes to adjust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't just the government that was adaptable; Rubinovaite notes that businesses quickly changed as well, with restaurants offering takeaway and food trucks, clothing shops moving online, and museums offering virtual tours. \"Even the monks at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.trappistwestvleteren.be\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESint-Sixtus Abbey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E started selling their world-famous (and very difficult to get) Westvleteren beer online during the pandemic,\" she said. She also saw a huge leap forward in terms of digitisation, as mobile and card payments replaced cash, and students received new iPads and laptops for learning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENearly all Covid restrictions have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Fworld\u002Feurope\u002Fbelgium-set-remove-almost-all-covid-restrictions-2022-03-04\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebeen removed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Belgium now, paving the way for the return of the bi-annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffullsuitcase.com\u002Fbrussels-flower-carpet\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrussels Flower Carpet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and music festivals. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkmska.be\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, home to works by Rubens and van Eyck, will finally be reopening to the public in September 2022, after a 10-year renovation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by8100"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBrazil\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrazil was the highest South American country in the Agility index (ranked 23rd) as well as in its ability to be dynamic (ranking fifth). Though residents admit the government stumbled in its pandemic response at first, the healthcare system was able to move quickly and efficiently to vaccinate the large population, including a near \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fworld\u002F2021\u002F12\u002F13\u002Fcoronavirus-brazil-sao-paulo-vaccination\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E100% vaccination rate in largest city São Paulo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, making it one of the \"vaccine capitals\" of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith fewer resources than larger economies, the country could not afford to endure a lengthy lockdown, so residents had to do their own part to wear masks and maintain social distancing. But many believe not stopping the economy helped the country emerge from the pandemic. \"Brazilians see themselves as survivors and we always find a way to get through crises,\" said resident Natalie Deduck, co-founder of travel planning company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Floveandroad.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELove and Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Inside our hearts, we always hope for better days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose days may finally be here as many restrictions like mask mandates have been lifted. Travellers must still provide \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.br\u002Fanvisa\u002Fpt-br\u002Fenglish\u002Fupdates\u002Ftravel-rules-to-enter-brazil\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea negative Covid test, a health declaration and proof of vaccination\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Deduck notes that Brazil is more than its big cities and the Amazon, and visitors should consider a trip to southern Brazil with its beach cities like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160524-five-cities-beloved-by-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlorianópolis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.icmbio.gov.br\u002Fparnaaparadosdaserra\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAparados da Serra National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has family-run hotels and farm stays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fas-the-world-opens\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fas-the-world-opens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAs the World Opens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehighlights the latest destinations opening their borders and explores the exciting things travel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eers can do there – safely and sustainably.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-01T10:04:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's most agile countries","headlineShort":"The world's most agile countries","image":["p0by8131"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.09024","longitude":"-95.712891","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0by8131"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With international travel opening up again, travellers may find more security visiting countries with a strong track record of adjusting their policies appropriately and swiftly.","summaryShort":"Five nations remaining flexible in the face of constant change","tag":["tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-31T21:06:35.299729Z","entity":"article","guid":"56ed98df-32ee-4c18-9198-995529d4eb9e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-31T22:28:39.189484Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbelgium","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-korea","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbrazil"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_australia-and-pacific_australia_europe_belgium_asia_south-korea_south-america_brazil","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition","_id":"624ec67b1f4b7b4f47177b90","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":null,"bodyIntro":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"New year, new hope","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt goes without saying that the world was turned upside-down last year as we faced a global pandemic, racial reckoning and the continued effects of climate change. However, we at BBC Travel believe the dawn of 2021 brings with it a new sense of hope and possibility – as well as a heightened sense of connection to each other and the world around us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven as we were – and still are – unable to travel in the way we did before the pandemic, people from different cultures in every continent have continued to thrive in their personal corners of the planet, bringing joy, passion and inspiration to their communities. They've preserved local traditions, made strides to protect the Earth, and used their creative talents to expand and evolve their cultures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith BBC Travel's 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, we hope to share that joy with you, and through their extraordinary stories, inspire you to fall in love with the world all over again. After all, it's the only one we have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E– The BBC Travel Editors\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe asked 50 remarkable people – both known voices and unsung heroes – the question, \"Why do you love the world?\" Read on to see what they had to say…\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-50-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when we had to stay home during Covid-19 and there was neither work nor school, I was finally able to go sugar-bushing [in rural Quebec] with my daughter for the entire season – making \u003Cem\u003Epikoodinigan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for four or five weeks.” \u003Cem\u003E– Marie-Cecile Nottaway, chef\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Nottaway's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-49-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when working and singing alongside the \u003Cem\u003Efäbod\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Swedish summer farm) women, I felt such a profound connection to them both as a part of our past and present, I just knew that I had to carry on their kulning legacy.” \u003Cem\u003E– Jennie Tiderman-Österberg, singer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210106-kulning-a-hypnotic-swedish-singing-tradition\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Tiderman-Österberg's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-48-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because in spite of the pandemic, the wildfires and the smoke in my hometown, the awful political climate in the US and the economic crisis that creates so much despair, I wake up every morning in my small house in California squeezed between my husband and two dogs and realise that love is all that truly matters,\"\u003Cem\u003E – Isabel Allende, author\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210112-isabel-allende-on-travel-culture-and-what-inspires-her\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Allende's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-47-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because Trinidad’s rich dramatic history and culture stems from European and African roots [and] gives me inspiration with minimum detail, and so I never get tired of writing,” – \u003Cem\u003ELuis Martinez, porter and poet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210114-the-bus-porter-who-travelled-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Martinez's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-46-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I've been making char \u003Cem\u003Ekway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for more than 60 years, people come from all over the world to taste it. I'm so proud knowing they've travelled to my hometown of Penang for my food. Even though we don't speak the same language, when I see them finishing their plate, I know they are happy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Tan Chooi Hong (Uncle Tan), street food cook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Tan's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-45-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because being so isolated as we are here in the Arctic at Bamsebu heightens our connection to all things. It elevates our ability to feel, listen and to understand our place in this world. Our energy is channelled into aligning our unique and powerful role in this web of life and answering the question: what can I do to give back?” – Sunniva Sorby, polar explorer\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Sorby's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-44-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because everything around me – the river, the cathedrals, the beautiful views – breathes history. Kolomna, Russia, has learned to live with its heritage; this gives us our love and our passion for what we do.” – Natalia Nikitina, entrepreneur \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Nikitina's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-43-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because of Covid, I was [locked down] in my childhood home in Dehradun where I was born. Coming home made me once again fall in love with the Earth, the Himalayas, my beautiful Doon Valley.\" – Dr Vandana Shiva, environmental activist and food advocate\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210127-vandana-shiva-on-why-the-food-we-eat-matters\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Shiva's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-42-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I feel honoured to still be fit and healthy enough to look after the many gods here in Hong Kong’s Waterfall Bay Park and receive their blessings, day in, day out. There is no place more magical for me and I feel privileged to worship here.” – Wong Wing-pong, statue caretaker\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210202-hong-kongs-guardian-of-the-gods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Wong's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-41-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when I am diving among the Posidonia meadows, I feel the power of life through a plant that has the capacity to transform the [Mediterranean's] seawater and the seashore\" – Manu San Félix, marine biologist and underwater explorer\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210204-posidonia-the-mediterraneans-super-plant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead San Félix's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-40-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because there is a lovely moment [in Nariño, Colombia] when the potato or the arracacha is ready to be harvested and you go past in the morning or at night, and you have the smell of the flowers, and they are special because when they don't have pesticides this aroma leaves you wanting to stay there.\" – Anibal Jose Criollo, chef and environmentalist\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210207-buen-vivir-colombias-philosophy-for-good-living\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead San Criollo's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-39-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I got to visit the tiny stone villages of Slovenia’s magical Kras region, which I wouldn’t have considered going to if I hadn’t needed to stay in my country. I’m grateful that I had a chance to see the region’s beautiful colours – oranges, violets and greens – and unique landscape, which feels kind of Mediterranean but looks out to the Alps.” – Ana Ro&scaron;, chef\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210211-ana-ros-the-chef-who-put-slovenia-on-the-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Ro&scaron;'s story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-38-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I saw grizzly bears in the wild as a child, it made me realise that we have to share this landscape [in Montana’s remote wilderness] not just with each other, but with all of the animals, too.” – Will Hammerquist, Mercantile owner\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210215-welcome-to-polebridge-one-of-the-us-last-frontiers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Hammerquist's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-37-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I had the unexpected joy of two days in Rome in December. Instead of jammed sidewalks, careening cars and buses erupting with tourists, the city was shining, quiet, utterly clean... I simply walked all over, taking in the essential city. Imagine – I stood alone at the Trevi fountain, listening to the water splash. Among many travel highs in my life, I’ve never felt as astonished and lucky.\" – Frances Mayes, author\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210218-italys-best-forgotten-cities-and-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Mayes's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-36-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the outdoors gave me a renewed sense of purpose after my wife passed away from terminal cancer. I’ve used the landscape and my job to rebuild myself, and stepping outside to reexplore the Isle of Skye has restored my spirit, giving me the strength to find positivity in the world again.” – Mitchell Partridge, ghillie\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Partridge's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-31"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-32"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-35-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because while I’m out shrimp fishing, Belgium’s North Sea allows me and my horse to feel calm, peaceful and at one with nature. I’m also happy to preserve and share this very important cultural tradition.” – Nele Bekaert, horse fisherwoman\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210224-europes-500-year-old-seafood-tradition\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Bekaert's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-33"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-34"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-34-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the more we protect the environment [around Piplantri, India], the more it will reciprocate. Those who work with nature don't worry too much. Nature gives me strength; our daughters and this work gives us strength.” – Shyam Sunder Paliwal, eco-feminist\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210302-piplantri-the-indian-village-where-girls-rule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Paliwal's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-35"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-36"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-33-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I spent a week in [South Africa's] blue water with wild dolphins at seven months pregnant, and through their echolocation, they could see my baby girl, surrounding me, scanning, clicking and celebrating this new life inside me, reminding me of just how magical this blue planet truly is.\" – Hanli Prinsloo, freediver and conservationist\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210304-can-hanli-prinsloo-help-south-africa-reclaim-its-oceans\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Prinsloo's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-37"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-38"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-32-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when I heard the drums of the masqueraders in Sierra Leone and looked into their mirrored crown, I saw my forebears and I saw myself and every other human being.\" – Michael W Twitty, author and historian\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210307-how-rice-shaped-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Twitty's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-39"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-40"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-31-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I’m very happy that [my son Rolando is home and] we are living together as a family again. We have finished repairing the main square of the village [of Mururata in Bolivia]; we inaugurated it recently and it went very well.” – Julio Bonifaz Pinedo, farmer and king\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210310-bolivias-little-known-tribal-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Pinedo's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-41"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-42"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-30-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because even as a child, I was utterly in love with the wonder of nature, the miracle of life, the infinite variety of species and the mystery of the universe.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Jane Goodall, primatologist and humanitarian\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210318-why-jane-goodall-is-hopeful-in-2021\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Goodall's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-43"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-44"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-29-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I am a devoted Muslim and our teacher, Muhammad, said milk is good, I feel fulfilled by being able to provide it to people who need it [in Rwanda].” – Yusuf Gatikabisi, business owner\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Gatikabisi's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-45"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-46"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-28-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I feel strongly connected with the lakes, the forest and nature around me. I find inspiration for my dishes when I am outdoors picking mushrooms and berries and foraging for aromatic herbs and plants. In Sweden, we are lucky to have wild nature at our doorsteps. Respecting, caring and connecting with that nature will make us stronger and better people.\" – Niklas Ekstedt, chef\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Ekstedt's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-47"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-48"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-27-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because walking makes every square metre of the Earth that I stand on my home: in no village, road or continent do I feel lonely.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Paul Salopek, journalist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210329-the-war-correspondent-walking-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Salopek's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-49"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-50"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-26-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because incense invokes peace of mind, and that is the basis of happiness. So with every incense wand I make, I can share that happiness with the world.\" – Nado, incense maker\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Nado's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-51"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-52"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-25-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when we re-indigenise our foods, we also connect to the land, to our communities, as well as to our cultures, and this is vital to our health and wellness.\" – Lois Ellen Frank, chef, author & food historian\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210406-the-crucial-legacy-missing-from-us-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Frank's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-53"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-54"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-24-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because as a child, the Boy Scouts introduced me to my first hike to Fedon's Camp in Grenada, [and] I have since spent my life walking and mapping my home island. I have a walk I call the 'No Rivers' walk, which takes me along the top of the island's backbone. I don't think anyone else has done it before.\" – Telfor Bedeau, explorer and cartographer\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210408-the-man-mapping-a-nation-by-hand-telfor-bedeau\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Bedeau's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-55"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-56"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-23-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because of all of our differences. We each have our culture, our identity, our story... To me being different is beautiful and I embrace my Indigenous identity more and more everyday.\" – Shina Novalinga, throat singer\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Novalinga's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-57"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-58"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-22-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because being a porter [in Slovakia’s High Tatras] is not a job, it is a way of life. For a real porter, money takes second place, first is being on the mountain.\"– Peter Petras, porter\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210420-the-last-sherpas-of-europe\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Petras' story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-59"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-60"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-21-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I get to work here on the beautiful Otago Peninsula helping to save the yellow-eyed penguin, a very endangered bird here in New Zealand, and save it for our future generations\" – Jason van Zanten, conservation manager\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead van Zanten's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-61"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-62"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-20-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I was inspired by the infinity of the world and the elegance of mother nature, I was blessed to be born in Cambodia with natural resources and age-old traditions. From fracture damaged by war, I have been able to harness both to try to build a better future for generations to come and create a product which embodies and pays tribute to the beauty and dignity of the Khmer soul.\" – Sophea Pheach, silk maker\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210620-the-ancient-cambodian-silk-that-was-almost-lost\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Pheach's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-63"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-64"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-19-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because watching the world embrace the idea of zero waste is one of the most exciting prospects on Earth. Growing awareness of the issues we face and the realisation that we must radically change almost everything is driving innovation like no other time in human history.\" – Joost Bakker, zero-waste activist\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-joost-bakker-on-why-zero-waste-living-is-the-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Bakker's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-65"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-66"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-18-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because here, you can drink your fill of the air. Food tastes better, and everything around us is ours: we make it ourselves.\" – Donika Musaj, wild medicinal & aromatic plant collector\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210706-the-albanian-mountain-crops-that-keep-us-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Musaj's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-67"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-68"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-17-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I know that over the course of my career, every animal that I've ever recorded may have died, but that the place still has its voice.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Gordon Hempton, acoustic ecologist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210712-the-worlds-most-endangered-sound\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Hempton's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-69"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-70"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-16-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the whistle is an inheritance from our ancestors and maintaining it identifies us as Gomeros.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Eugenio Darias, teacher\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210720-the-spanish-island-that-communicates-by-whistle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Darias' story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-71"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-72"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-15-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the power of exploration, of navigators, is taking care of something bigger than yourself. It's not about putting a stake some place to say, 'look what I did', it's more about 'look what I'm trying to protect.'\" \u003Cem\u003E– Nainoa Thompson, master navigator\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210726-polynesias-master-voyagers-who-navigate-by-nature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Thompson's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-73"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-74"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-14-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because the diversity of cultural patrimony in the Matobo hills bears testimony to the intertwined relationship between man, wildlife and the natural environment.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Evans Mabiza, conservationist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210728-the-nest-custodians-protecting-a-toddler-sized-bird\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Mabiza's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-75"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-76"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-13-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because living in the world is an adventure. One day can be up, and the next can be down. But we learn and grow. That's what the world is about.\" – Sara Qquehuarucho Zamalloa, guide\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210803-the-women-porters-making-history-on-perus-inca-trail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Zamalloa's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-77"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-78"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-12-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because of the kindness and resiliency of the communities affected by wildfire, as well as the resiliency and regrowth of the burned landscape.\" – Ashley Farinacci-Silfies, fire lookout\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210809-the-guardian-of-colorados-front-range\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Farinacci-Silfies' story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-79"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-80"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-11-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because [fungi are] the coolest and most important organisms on Earth. Life on Earth wouldn't exist as we know it without [them].\" \u003Cem\u003E– Giuliana Furci, mycologist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210811-the-chilean-biologist-celebrating-fungis-hidden-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Furci's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cdiv\u003E \u003C\u002Fdiv\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-81"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-82"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-10-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I'm in love with sharing my knowledge with people. I built a library, at first, for my own learning but I cannot just keep it to myself – sharing is the real joy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Mohammed Bennani, archivist & couscous maker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Bennani's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-83"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-84"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-09-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because it demonstrates the creativity of our Heavenly Father. The variety of his creation is stunning. We have Junkanoo in the Bahamas, for example, but we can go to every part of the world and experience something different. And together we all make up this wonderful kaleidoscope of creation.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Arlene Nash Ferguson, historian\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"20210818-the-bahamas-queen-of-junkanoo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Ferguson's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-85"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-86"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-08-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I am indigenous from Oaxaca and I am blessed to be living here now, in the Chumash land, where I continue to follow my journey, led by the plants and where they grow.\" – Porfirio Gutiérrez, artist and weaver\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210823-the-man-preserving-endangered-colours\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Gutiérrez's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-87"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-88"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-07-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because although life in Timbuktu can be hard, if I drink the water of Timbuktu, if I see the sand dunes of the Sahara and if I see the kids of Timbuktu and they call my name, I feel like a rich man.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Azima Ag Mohamed Ali, storyteller\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210906-the-nomad-guide-who-decodes-the-saharas-secrets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Ag Mohamed Ali's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-89"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-90"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-06-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because through planting seeds, we are literally creating a new world together – one that is more loving and definitely more tender.\" – \u003Cem\u003EVivien Sansour, conservationist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210908-the-woman-saving-palestinian-heirloom-seeds\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Sansour's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-91"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-92"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-05-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because there's nowhere I can compare with Maasailand, with the sound of cattle bells as they return home and the different sounds of predators at night.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Meiteranga Kamunu Saitoti, lion protector\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210913-where-people-live-in-harmony-with-lions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Saitoti's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-93"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-94"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-04-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I grew up out here in the desert where healthy country means trees and animals. It's my home.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Alice Ellis, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary ranger\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Ellis' story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-95"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-96"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-03-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because even though I set out to preserve my heritage, which I could see disappearing bit by bit, I keep discovering that there's so much more beauty in Nubia that we still don't know about.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Hafsa Amberkab, filmmaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Amberkab's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-97"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-98"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003E-02-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when the monsoon starts, the green pastures with wildflowers and the Himalayas here look very beautiful. You can see the snow-covered mountains, you can see the animals, you can see the plentiful grasslands and our chauris everywhere.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Pasang Darche Tamang, cheesemaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Tamang's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-99"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Al-qatt al-asiri wall decoration in a house, Asir province, Rijal Almaa, Saudi Arabia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-100"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-01-\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when I meet people through my travels or when foreigners from different regions of the world come to my studio [in 'Asir]… it is a beautiful coincidence that there are great similarities in heritage,\" \u003Cem\u003E– Afaf bin Dajem Al Qahtani, artist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERead Al Qahtani's story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-101"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-102"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWe will be publishing new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in the coming months, so check back weekly for the latest updates.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition-103"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-05T13:59:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","headlineShort":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.","summaryShort":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:23:01.827314Z","entity":"article","guid":"079c195e-12d4-4800-a40c-df8c2bcec273","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:20:28.300089Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b518e52f014","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Gatsby is one of Cape Town's most famous sandwiches. But there’s more to the takeaway than simply being a solid hangover fix.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a warm, sunny morning in the Cape Town suburb of Athlone, and Rashaad Pandy’s takeaway restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eatout.co.za\u002Fvenue\u002Fsuper-fisheries\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESuper Fisheries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is already busy. Pandy talks to me over the counter, breaking off our conversation to welcome familiar customers. People queue under the bright green and yellow menu boards, leaving with plastic bags containing their lunch. For most, it’s long, bulky packages wrapped in paper: the famous Gatsby sandwich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They may take our land, but they’ll never take our Gatsby!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you ask Capetonians about a local dish, a common suggestion would be the Gatsby – a foot-long, soft-white sub stuffed with combinations of meat (polony, masala steak, chicken or calamari), \u003Cem\u003Eslap tjips \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(chips), sauce (piri-piri, tomato), cheese, fried eggs and salad. It’s an intimidating sandwich, requiring both hands and an empty stomach, the wrapper laid out to catch the bursting-forth contents, and a resignation to sauce-smeared cheeks and hands. Don’t be foolhardy enough to take one on solo; Gatsbys are made to share, usually cut in four.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story of the Gatsby – or at least its name – tends to lead back to Pandy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It was way back in 1976,” Pandy said. Four men had come to help him clear a plot in Lansdowne, a Cape Town suburb. Pandy was born in the nearby suburb of Claremont, but his family was forced to move as part of the South African apartheid government’s racial segregation scheme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe white supremacist National Party, which governed South Africa from 1948 to 1994, formalised apartheid (“apartness” in Afrikaans) and race-based status, with the minority white population as the ruling class. Below whites were mixed race (“coloured”) people and Asians, while black people had the lowest status. Many tried to hide their identities to avoid racist policies; Pandy’s Indian grandfather changed his name from Pandey to Pandy, which appeared more English.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPandy had promised the men food from his shop in Athlone – a neighbourhood he described as “the heart of the Cape Flats” (a low-lying area southeast of the city) which became a centre of anti-apartheid activism a few years later, in the 1980s. When they returned, he gathered up what he had: “There were some chips left, one of the round Portuguese loaves… there was no fish, but I saw the polony [sliced meat, similar to bologna]. I heated up the chips, I heated up the polony, put some of the homemade \u003Cem\u003Eatchar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [pickle] on top of it and cut it into wedges… And the one guy, Froggy, that was his name, Froggy, he told me, ‘\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiveupinternet.com\u002Fdictionary\u002Flaanie-9066\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaanie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it’s a smash, it’s a Gatsby smash!’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFroggy might have been referring to the novel-turned-1974 cinematic hit, The Great Gatsby – but wherever his phrase came from, the name stuck. Pandy was curious to see what his customers thought, so he put it on the counter the next morning. They suggested it was too difficult to eat in the round roll, but why didn’t he try a long loaf instead?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You listen to what the customers want,” Pandy said. “From there, it just grew.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The only thing I needed was a name and [Froggy] told me it’s a Gatsby smash. All I did was put it on the market and see how it did.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPandy specialises in fish, so he doesn’t do steak and chicken variations, and still uses his father’s atchar recipe. He sells between 250 and 300 Gatsbys a day, as well as fish and chips. The calamari Gatsby sells well, Pandy says, but it’s still the original polony version – the cheapest – that remains the most popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190304-south-africas-flammable-floral-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Africa's flammable, floral kingdom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's beloved \"pizza of the people\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190410-cape-towns-inspiring-medical-marvel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape Town's inspiring medical marvel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe price is part of the appeal. Super Fisheries’ polony Gatsby costs 54 rand (£2.60), which is split between four. “Money is always a bit scarce in the Cape Flats, but the people always make do from what they've got,” Pandy said. “It’s good value.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A lot of people, they come from Joburg and they come straight from the airport. They want the original Gatsby.” Pandy added that with Uber, it’s been easier for international visitors to travel to Athlone from the city for a takeout from “the home of the original Cape Town Gatsby”, as the Super Fisheries sign proudly reads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe emergence of the takeaway\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are many similar “sandwiches” in South Africa. Every big city has its own version. In Durban, it’s the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171009-the-indian-dish-you-cant-find-in-india\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebunny chow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry. The AK is Johannesburg’s version of the Gatsby, made with the same ingredients and so-named because the way you hold the loaf in one arm might look like an AK-47.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“[South African takeaways] are all about apartheid in the hospitality industry, in so far as they are about black people not being allowed to eat inside the restaurant. You needed a way of taking the food away,” explained anthropologist and food writer Dr Anna Trapido (who noted that another possible origin of the Gatsby name was that the loaf resembled Robert Redford’s hat in the film).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETakeaway food in South Africa has not been analysed extensively through the lens of race, but a 2018 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fetd.uwc.ac.za\u002Fxmlui\u002Fbitstream\u002Fhandle\u002F11394\u002F6672\u002Fwentzel_ma_arts_2018.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethesis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by University of the Western Cape MA student Tazneem Wentzel shone a light on the Gatsby’s origins in a racist society. In her study – which is likely not only the most in-depth study of the Gatsby, but what appears to be the first – she explores the roots and cultural importance of the Gatsby and the Whopper burger, and looking more broadly at the role of takeaways in the Cape Flats from 1950 to 1980.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELast year, local media picked up on her thesis, curious about the “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.enca.com\u002Flife\u002Facademic-examines-history-gatsby\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehumble Gatsby\u003C\u002Fa\u003E” – a sandwich many Capetonians regard fondly – as an academic subject. Wentzel appeared on radio shows such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.capetalk.co.za\u002Fpodcasts\u002F125\u002Fthe-best-of-the-eusebius-mckaiser-show\u002F233462\u002Fthe-delicious-gatsby-history-identity-and-politics\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape Talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartfm.co.za\u002Fshow-content\u002Fwembley-roadhouse-and-super-fisheries-are-food-institutions-on-the-cape-flats\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeart FM\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, online outlets such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.news24.com\u002Fnews24\u002FSouthAfrica\u002FNews\u002Ffood-for-thought-masters-student-tucks-into-thesis-on-the-iconic-gatsby-20190414\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENews24\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and on TV. “I feel that food history is an often overlooked and neglected topic,” she told News24. “We take for granted the kinds of histories we… ingest every day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWentzel’s thesis examines the emergence of halal takeaway restaurants following “the implementation of the Group Areas Act in the 1960s”. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-14094918\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Group Areas Act\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the first of which was passed in 1950, forced people of colour outside South African cities to areas such as the Cape Flats. This, she says, resulted in longer commutes, which meant there was less time available to prepare food in the kitchen, thus popularising takeaways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the Gatsby is specifically designed for sharing, which Wentzel suggested represented a “particular kind of culinary belonging” at a time of great political and social injustice and unrest. Family-owned takeaway shops, like Pandy’s, became “a critical space of self-authorship [and] autonomy” in the face of systematic racial discrimination and oppression.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuddenly, the Gatsby doesn’t seem quite so humble.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“They may take our land, but they’ll never take our Gatsby”\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGiven this history, you might imagine how jarring it is to see the Gatsby reimagined by white chefs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn a 2018 Food Network video, chef Sonja Edridge attempted to gentrify the Gatsby with a version that included chopped spinach, curry, homemade mayonnaise, potato wedges, rocket and plum chutney on ciabatta. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iol.co.za\u002Flifestyle\u002Ffood-drink\u002Fchanges-to-the-humble-gatsby-hard-to-swallow-for-capetonians-13641802\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECapetonians responded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with a mixture of indignation and ridicule. One wrote, “That Gatsby went to private school by the looks of it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPandy says he didn’t care too much. “I’m easy,” he told me, shrugging it off. “[But] most of my customers responded to her. A guy from Bush Radio [Yuzriq Meyer] came in and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=_thyOqGXd4k&list=UUJ2YRaFanx9bz84So3NlCWQ&index=45\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewas imitating that woman\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.” Meyer ended his send-up declaring, à la Mel Gibson in Braveheart: “For they may take our land, but they’ll never take our Gatsby!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Gentrified street food, wherever it occurs, is always awful,” Trapido said. “You lose the essence of what it’s about.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I’m sure there is space for a really good Gatsby in a restaurant context,” she continued, “but I'm not sure that the people that are doing it necessarily understand it from the inside. Because they’re getting the flavour wrong. I mean of course they’re getting the politics wrong, but they’re also just not understanding the taste, and it’s disrespectful if what you do doesn’t say ‘Gatsby’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Gentrified street food, wherever it occurs, is always awful","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGatsby lovers often recommend \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcosycornertakeaway.co.za\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECosy Corner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Wynberg, which opened in 1973 and is still owned by the same family; while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthegoldendish.co.za\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Golden Dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Gatesville Shopping Centre is another popular spot, especially for their masala steak Gatsbys. And \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zomato.com\u002Fcapetown\u002Fmariams-kitchen-cbd\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMariam’s Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has a branch in the central business district, is a long-standing takeaway favourite for Cape Malay and Indian food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPandy is happy that other local families are profiting from the Gatsby name: “Who benefits? Our community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It keeps people going – that’s what I’m happy about,” Pandy said. “It feels good to think I did something for our community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-12-01T20:08:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Cape Town’s most famous fast food","headlineShort":"Cape Town’s most famous fast food","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Gatsby is one of Cape Town's most famous sandwiches. But there’s more to the takeaway than simply being a solid hangover fix.","summaryShort":"The humble Gatsby sandwich has its roots in apartheid","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:58:24.867167Z","entity":"article","guid":"e0fdd8a7-9ff6-4971-a014-f997718ad766","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:19:04.660834Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa","_id":"624ec6781f4b7b353b6a879c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When the Nieuw Haarlem wrecked in 1647, it catalysed the creation of Cape Town. Now, an archaeologist is on the verge of finding this lost ship that forever changed history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter meeting up with Dr Bruno Werz in the parking lot of Cape Town’s Dolphin Beach Hotel, we picked our way through tussocked dunes down to the Table Bay shoreline. As tourists snapped selfies in front of the unmistakable backdrop of Table Mountain and kite surfers whizzed past us in the direction of Blouberg Beach, Werz pointed out a choppy spot some 60m from the shore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I’m 95% sure the wreck is just there,” he said. “Which means the survivors’ camp is buried somewhere in the dunes behind us.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn 25 March 1647 – five years before the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb071vl2l\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDutch East India Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) in Dutch, had established the Cape Town settlement just north of the Cape of Good Hope – the Nieuw Haarlem foundered in Table Bay’s shallow waters. Luckily, no lives were lost, and much of the precious cargo the ship was bringing back to the Netherlands (via South Africa) from Asia was salvageable. Not long after the incident, 58 crew members were taken back to the Netherlands by the other ships in the fleet. But the remaining 62 men were left behind to look after the valuable spices, pepper, textiles and porcelain until a larger fleet could give them and their cargo a lift home about a year later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf they hadn’t stayed, said Gerald Groenewald of the University of Johannesburg’s Department of History, “the history of colonial South Africa could have turned out very differently.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape Town’s slave ship secret\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190908-a-shipwreck-worth-billions-off-the-coast-of-cartagena\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA shipwreck worth billions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190423-the-mystery-of-cape-towns-disappearing-gun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe mystery of Cape Town’s disappearing gun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDutch and other European ships had been stopping at Table Bay and Saldanha Bay (some 130km to the north) since the 1590s to load up on drinking water and barter livestock. But the experience of the Nieuw Haarlem survivors was the “catalyst” that determined which of the powers would be the first to settle in the region and where precisely they would settle. For the Dutch, it was Cape Town. After 1652, according to Groenewald, “the English started to concentrate more on St Helena as a halfway station. The French continued to call at Saldanha Bay from time to time but also had their own colony in Reunion.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWerz, who started his career as a marine archaeologist in the Netherlands, moved to South Africa in 1988 to take up a lecturing position at the University of Cape Town. Within a few weeks of arriving, a member of the public phoned to say she thought she’d found the remains of the Nieuw Haarlem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWerz had come to South Africa harbouring hopes of discovering the remains of the many VOC ships wrecked at the Cape. The Haarlem – the ship that “started it all” – was at the top of his wish list. It was a mystery that many serious historians had wanted to solve over the years, and previous attempts to find the wreck had all included many incorrect assumptions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She took me to the beach and showed me some timbers,” said Werz, who instantly recognised them as coming from a much more recent 19th-Century wreck. Putting the disappointment behind him, he \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haarlem1647.info\u002FHaarlem-1647-Project-News\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtinued to investigate the Nieuw Haarlem\u003C\u002Fa\u003E “as a sort of hobby,” by walking on the beach “whenever [he] was bored” and combing the state archives in the Hague and Cape Town for any information. Through his research, he found a tranche of documents, including the journal kept the by the ship’s junior merchant, Leendert Jansz, who was one of the 62 men who had stayed in Cape Town after the wreck. The journal provided Werz with great detail about the year the men spent at the Cape – including a few very useful clues as to the exact location of the wreck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the men had made it ashore in 1647 – transferring heavy cargo in the choppy conditions was an ordeal which spanned several weeks and claimed one life – they established a camp among the dunes which they called Zandenburch (“Sandcastle” in English). They bartered livestock and fresh meat from the indigenous KhoeKhoe people and had great success fishing in the nearby Salt River. They even ventured to Robben Island – where Nelson Mandela languished in prison from 1964 to 1982 – in skiffs. (The island is now a popular tourist attraction with a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.robben-island.org.za\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can learn all about the prison and see the resident penguins which are now an endangered species.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis excerpt from Jansz’s journal gives an idea of the kind of challenges and successes the men experienced. On Saturday, 15 June, “the crew shot a rhinoceros (which had been fighting with an elephant) near our fortification. The meat is very short-grained and tastes good, which serves us very well in this time of shortage.” And a day later, “our skiff returned from the Robben Island with 200 birds, mostly penguins, as well as 800 eggs.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the hardships, Jansz was able to recognise the potential of the Cape as a victualling station for Dutch ships – he just had to convince the Lords Seventeen (the VOC’s “board of directors”), who were notoriously stingy, according to Groenewald, to establish a permanent settlement there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETaking on fresh provisions was vital to the wellbeing of crews making the eight-month, one-way journey to and from Asia, with scurvy and other diseases claiming many lives. VOC ships had a history of calling at various places in the southern hemisphere, including St Helena, Mauritius and Table Bay; however, they were hesitant to establish a presence on the African mainland because of the perceived costs of such an endeavour and because they were wary of the people who already lived there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo, after returning to Holland in 1648, Jansz and another official named Proot (whose identity is in doubt but is most likely Matthijs Proot, another junior merchant who was not on the Haarlem) submitted a remonstration to the Lords Seventeen that “succinctly demonstrated and indicated what service, advantage and profit will accrue to the VOC by constructing a fort and garden at the Cape of Good Hope.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe document pointed out the Cape’s strategic location (if enemy ships wanted to attack, it noted, there would be “no better place in the world for them to do so than the Cape”), fertile land, abundant fish and livestock, and access to fresh water and timber. Most importantly, the remonstration stressed the fact that “the indigenous people came in all friendliness to barter, [bringing] cattle and sheep in quantities.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe remonstration went to great pains to convince the directors of how cheaply the settlement could be established. It also dismissed the popular conception at the time that indigenous Africans were “man-eating people” as “nonsense”, explaining that “the killing of our people is caused more by revenge due to the stealing of their cattle, than because they want to eat us.” It also recommended (with remarkable prescience) that the new settlement should have “a good commander who treats the indigenous people politely and who pays for everything that is bartered from them, and to treat some of them with a bellyful of food.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, Jan van Riebeeck – an ambitious VOC official who was on one of the ships that collected the last of the Nieuw Haarlem survivors in 1648 – successfully petitioned to be the Cape’s first commander and took things in a different but history-defining direction."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp07zry52.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"245\" height=\"138\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors who want to delve into VOC rule at the Cape can explore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.castleofgoodhope.co.za\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Castle of Good Hope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was built between 1666 and 1679. The remains of van Riebeeck’s fort are buried beneath the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgolden-acre.co.za\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGolden Acre shopping centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, although some remnants of the reservoir built by his immediate successor, Zacharias Wagenaer, are on display in the ground floor of the mall. The VOC’s garden, which is now more of a park, is located in Central Cape Town on Queen Victoria street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Exploring the Cape","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"“From day one, he had a negative view of the KhoeKhoe,” said Groenewald. “He had a low opinion of them and distrusted them very much. His ill relationship with the KhoeKhoe led to the first \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fworldservice\u002Fspecials\u002F1624_story_of_africa\u002Fpage23.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKhoeKhoe-Dutch War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of 1658-59.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the decades that followed, the initial vision of a contained outpost at the Cape was obliterated, particularly when van Riebeeck made the decision to allow the Dutch to farm in the hinterland. While the first Free Burghers (“free citizens” who were released from VOC employment to farm their own land) originally settled near to Cape Town, as their numbers swelled, they ventured further and further inland, expanding the footprint of the settlement. And, in 1658, the first slaves were imported by the VOC (initially from West Africa and later from areas around the Indian Ocean) to do hard labour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis “socio-economic cocktail”, said Jane Carruthers, an emeritus professor at the University of South Africa, laid the foundation for the “social order and class distinction based on race”, which was cemented in the 20th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Werz, finding the Haarlem would “make one of the most important pieces of 17th-Century South African history tangible.” By 2015, the project had become much more than just a hobby and he had gathered folders of information on the wreck. Jansz’s journal mentioned that the ship was sunk exactly 1.5 miles from the place where van Riebeeck would eventually establish his fort. While those who’d looked for the Nieuw Haarlem before him had assumed the figure to be in English miles, Werz knew that a Dutch mile was almost five times longer than an English mile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother clue came from a 1652 volume which stated that a drinking well dug at the survivors’ camp was “60 feet deep, dug through sand, then limestone, then shelly sand, then clay and, at the deepest level, sand with water.” Such information (known as a stratigraphic column by geologists) served as a unique “location barcode” that Keletso Mulele, one of Werz’s honours students, compared to a 1970s geological survey to further zero in on the location of the survivor camp and the nearby wreck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2016, Werz teamed up with geophysicist Billy Steenkamp to use a magnetometer (a type of metal detector that only picks up iron) to search the area he’d earmarked. Excavations on the beach yielded the remains of a 19th-Century shipwreck, not to mention fencing poles, a piece of pipe and a marine engine block. When they ventured a bit deeper, however, their luck began to change. They were able to dig up a huge semi-circular object that Werz believes was some sort of clamp from a mast or spar and a number of hand-forged nails which could only be very old. They even found a necklace made from copper, which Werz thinks was crafted by the KhoeKhoe people, possibly bartered from the Nieuw Haarlem survivors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile it must have been tempting to continue using earth-moving equipment to solve the mystery once and for all, Werz called the dig off when a metre-long nail was snapped in half by a digger. Unveiling the last of the Nieuw Haarlem’s secrets will require erecting a temporary coffer dam and draining all the water from the area. Once he’s secured funding for this final phase of the project, Werz said, “the ultimate proof will be the discovery of the 19 iron cannon and four iron anchors that were left behind in the hold.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWerz has been in the game long enough to know that this moment is still quite a long way off, but he is hopeful that further evidence (he’s waiting for metallurgical reports on the finds and he hopes to drill the site for wood samples soon) will lead to the erection of some kind of monument at the wreck site. For now, visitors will have to park at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitdolphinbeach.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and walk along the shoreline in the direction of the city for about 10 minutes – and use their imaginations to envision the camp and wreck site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd, if and when the cannon and anchors are found, they would certainly warrant the creation of a museum display. “I know of no other shipwreck anywhere in the world,” he stressed, “that has had such an impact on an entire nation.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsunken-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores mythical underwater worlds that seem too fantastical to exist today but are astonishingly real. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-14T21:11:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The shipwreck that forever changed South Africa","headlineShort":"The shipwreck that created a country","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-33.8833322","longitude":"18.4412452","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When the Nieuw Haarlem wrecked in 1647, it catalysed the creation of Cape Town. Now, an archaeologist is on the verge of finding this lost ship that forever changed history.","summaryShort":"“No other shipwreck has had such an impact on an entire nation”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:42:54.987216Z","entity":"article","guid":"48afa713-099a-4553-a977-d4e22eea1487","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:02:20.07427Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater","_id":"624ec6921f4b7b68586e5433","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheather-richardson"],"bodyIntro":"For many South Africans, the quiet and calmness that can be found in the water – one of the rare places with few, if any, human-related threats – has been transformational.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBreak the surface of Cape Town's coastal waters and you'll find a golden forest. Thickets of sea bamboo kelp sway in the cold ocean swell, amber ribbons rippling out from tall limpet-clad stems anchored to the seabed. To the human ear, it's quiet. A shoal of silvery seabream wiggle past. Rays of sunlight dart through the briny turquoise water, gilding the dancing kelp fronds. An octopus lies almost hidden under a rock; boulder walls are encrusted with orange starfish and amethyst-toned sea urchins. Slinky pyjama sharks glide between the kelp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis dynamic marine forest is mere steps from the beach and can be visited on just one breath.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFreediving – diving on a breath-hold, without scuba gear – has boomed in popularity in Cape Town over the past decade, even before the Oscar-winning documentary film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt12888462\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMy Octopus Teacher\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showcased the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fseachangeproject.com\u002Fgreat-african-seaforest\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat African Seaforest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which extends along South Africa's west coast to Namibia. On a day with decent water visibility, freedivers can be seen wading in and out of the shallows, their extra-long fins – for energy-efficient movement – tucked underarm. Cold water enthusiasts brave the ocean in just a bathing suit and weight belt, while most opt for thick wetsuits, gloves, socks and hoods. Some divers can hold their breath for seven minutes, others are building up from a few seconds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI've struggled with scuba diving in the past, finding it uncomfortable, sometimes stressful. A few years ago, someone recommended I try freediving. Sure enough, when I finally did so, I found the experience simpler, less cumbersome and more relaxing. I'm certainly not alone in that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many, the quiet and calmness that can be found in the water – one of the rare places with few, if any, human-related threats – has been transformational.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bts7bj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Zandile Ndhlovu freediving underwater","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My friend Juneid Petersen invited me for my first freedive,\" said Mogamat Shamier Magmoet, whose film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waterbear.com\u002Fwatch\u002Fpartner-content\u002F6010154b61f22617bfc54610\"\u003ERise from the Cape Flats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was awarded the Sylvia Earle Ocean Conservation Award in 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough he loved swimming, Magmoet had never been more than waist-deep in the ocean. \"I was scared,\" he admitted. He floated, anxiously watching his friends disappear into the kelp. But after a while, the others reassuring him each time they resurfaced, he realised nothing was coming for him. \"Everything just opened up. I fell in love, right there and then.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA journey through the kelp can be different on any given day. Divers might encounter the sevengill cow shark, related to Jurassic-period species; be joined by a little African penguin; or spot a short-tail stingray on the sandy seabed. Photographers capture ethereal jellyfish or take macro pictures of flamboyant nudibranch molluscs. Sometimes the visibility is so bad, it's like swimming through a snowstorm. Other days, simply watching sunlight flicker through the water is just the tonic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Why was I only getting this experience now, after 33 years living 40 minutes away from the ocean?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If you're stressed, go lay in the water,\" Magmoet said. \"[You don't] have to swim or do anything. Just be there. I literally feel like something just slips off my shoulders.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlongside his newfound joy, Magmoet feels a sadness: \"Why was I only getting this experience now, after 33 years living 40 minutes away from the ocean?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bts7d6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coral and kelp around Cape Town","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMagmoet is from Heideveld on the Cape Flats. During apartheid, people of colour were forcibly removed from Cape Town's urban centre and onto the Cape Flats. The best beaches were whites-only; others were segregated. Apartheid only ended in the early 1990s and Cape Town remains largely, albeit informally, divided by race, with people of colour living in underserved and often unsafe areas. Parts of the Cape Flats experience extreme gang-related violence; Magmoet himself has been shot twice. But he's quick to note that \"there's also a lot of good happening that doesn't really get seen\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up, Magmoet never saw people of colour snorkelling or diving. \"People say: 'It's not for you, the ocean is not for us.' I would just think, but why?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape Town's most famous fast food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210304-can-hanli-prinsloo-help-south-africa-reclaim-its-oceans\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA nation without access to its own sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that created a country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our ancestors used to live off the water,\" he said. South Africans of colour have diverse backgrounds from parts of Africa and Asia; many Muslims in Cape Town, like Magmoet, have Southeast Asian heritage. \"[We were] removed from whichever islands we came from – Indonesia, Malaysia – and brought here as slaves. Then we lived here [by the ocean] again. Again, we were removed… With apartheid, we were literally told that this is not for you, don't come here. I think that got fixed in our brains.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeeing even children in his community carry a wariness about the ocean, Magmoet wasted no time introducing youth groups to snorkelling, at first independently, then with non-profit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fseathebiggerpicture.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESea the Bigger Picture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which he co-founded with Chris Krauss in 2018. Their programme guides 24 children, aged between 13 and 16, on a year of marine and citizen science learning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagmoet recently resigned to focus on filmmaking and quarterly ocean \"open days\" for people who have never snorkelled – and he still works a day job as a handyman.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bts7d2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Freediver shining a torch on coral","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong the individuals and organisations that have supported Magmoet is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcapetownfreediving.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape Town Freediving\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (CTF), which offered him a free course to learn safety elements for his youth programmes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen CTF opened a decade ago, it was the first official freediving centre in the country. They had 21 students over the entire year. Now, it's common for them to teach 20 divers a week during the summer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECo-founder Daniela Daines says that prior to around 2014, freediving was mostly a competitive sport in South Africa. She and her husband John created the Adventure Freediving course to broaden its appeal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The majority of people don't care about records,\" she said. \"What they want are the skills and confidence to safely explore the ocean, encounter marine animals, to disconnect from the daily grind of city living and connect with like-minded people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, I took CTF's two-day Adventure Freediving course. Our time was split between their studio in the False Bay suburb of Muizenberg and the ocean; on the final morning, we went to play with Cape fur seals in the Atlantic, Table Mountain's 12 Apostles standing as a dramatic backdrop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as dive techniques and safety guidance, we learnt what happens to our bodies during a breath-hold – perhaps most usefully, that the initial urge to breathe is not triggered by running short on oxygen, but an impulse to exhale carbon dioxide build-up. CTF provides gear rentals and dive site recommendations, and adds students to a community Telegram group where no question goes unanswered: you can find a dive buddy or ask for visibility reports.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bts7c9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Zandile Ndhlovu holding fins and goggles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDaines says their students range widely in age, body type and background. \"If you can breathe and swim, you can freedive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe relative lack of discrimination in freediving as a sport, said Daines, may be why so many women are drawn to it – something that seems apparent in Cape Town – alongside certain similarities to meditation and yoga, and that sense of \"safety and freedom in the water\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For some, these changes are subtle, for others they are truly life changing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDaines has often seen freediving be a catalyst of change, not least for herself. Within two months of learning, she married, quit her \"respectable, professional job\", moved hemispheres and co-founded CTF.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For some, these changes are subtle, for others they are truly life changing,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a healing, I think,\" Magmoet said of the freediving effect. \"In Islam, we are taught that all creatures of God say praise to him every day. And that's why we feel the way we do when we are in nature, whether it's on a hike or in the ocean. It's because of creatures sending their gratitude and praise to the one that made them. You feel that tranquillity is always there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that's why I love just being underwater, as still as possible,\" he continued. \"Everything is moving in the ocean. So why must you move? Once you stop, everything just comes to check you out… It's an important lesson. Just pause. Observe. We live fast-paced lives. But with a pause comes learning.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EZandile Ndhlovu has a similar relationship with the mindfulness that freediving requires. She qualified as an instructor in a water-filled quarry in Johannesburg. \"It gets dark quickly,\" she said. \"There's nothing to see. So, it's a beautiful release.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bts7dg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Freediver in underwater kelp forests South Africa","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENdhlovu grew up miles from the coast, in Soweto, outside central Johannesburg. In 2016, on the heels of a divorce, she quit her corporate job and flew to Bali where she learnt to snorkel and then scuba dive, before taking up freediving back in South Africa. It wasn't without difficulty – to dive beyond 23m, she had to let go of fears and learn to be present. With freediving, she says, \"the journey is so inside\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Magmoet, Ndhlovu became passionate about equal access to the water. \"I've always been the only black guest on the boat,\" she said. \"I just wanted to change that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe founded the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftheblackmermaid_foundation\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Mermaid Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through which she leads snorkelling trips in False Bay for children from Langa on the Cape Flats. \"We always go from terror to crazy joy,\" she laughed. She aims to dismantle a sense of not belonging in the ocean, but acknowledges barriers still exist for many, such as a lack of leisure time and access to transport.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENdhlovu, Magmoet and Daines all credit social media with recreational freediving's rapid gain in popularity – in Ndhlovu and Magmoet's cases, it's how they were first introduced to freediving. Now all three inspire others to experience the beauty of the underwater world for themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Lots of people ask me to describe it, but I can't,\" said Magmoet. Instead, he extends an invitation: \"Come with me. Let me show you.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-31T10:28:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The nation finding peace underwater","headlineShort":"Why this city is escaping underwater","image":["p0bts7f3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Underwater kelp forests South Africa","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-33.962864","longitude":"18.409834","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Underwater kelp forests South Africa","promoImage":["p0bts7bj"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210104-50-reasons-to-love-the-world--2021-edition","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201130-cape-towns-most-famous-fast-food","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For many South Africans, the quiet and calmness that can be found in the water – one of the rare places with few, if any, human-related threats – has been transformational.","summaryShort":"\"If you can breathe and swim, you can freedive\"","tag":["tag\u002Fdiving"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-30T21:29:25.449307Z","entity":"article","guid":"43282701-984b-40ea-9bca-f65105200c0e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-31T06:25:30.451706Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcape-town","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-africa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_south-africa_cape-town_africa_south-africa_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","_id":"624ec68f1f4b7b35375006a2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On the small island of Heimaey, chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson is at the helm of a food movement that honours Iceland's history while coaxing it into a new era of innovation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMuch of what chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson serves at his restaurant, \u003Ca title=\"Slippurinn\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slippurinn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlippurinn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, comes from outside his door. Only instead of a backyard garden with haricots vert and artichokes, there are meandering hills that look like green dragons dusted in fairytale-pink arctic thyme; cliffs perched dramatically over untamed fields of lemony sorrel; beaches dotted with briny oyster leaf and deep craters full of yellow-topped pineapple weed growing in volcanic soil as black as night. These, plus dozens of other wild-harvested ingredients like yarrow, sea beans, spruce and rowanberries, are pureed, dried, pickled and fermented in Auðunsson's kitchen apothecary. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn, which means \"boat slip\" in Icelandic, draws inspiration from its location on Heimaey's harbour, as well as the former shipyard machine workshop in which it's housed. Many original parts of the workshop were restored, and reclaimed ship parts and tools are tucked into the bright, modern and minimalist decor, resulting in a space deeply connected to its roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson has roots here, too. He was born on Heimaey – the oldest, largest and only inhabited of the Westman Islands archipelago located off Iceland's southern coast – but moved to Reykjavík when he was six. Despite being just 6km long, Heimaey is home to the largest Atlantic puffin breeding colony in the world, the windiest point in all of Europe and the world's first open water beluga whale sanctuary. It was evacuated in 1973 when the Eldfell volcano erupted, and though most of the island's residents returned to rebuild, the agriculture that existed previously was destroyed, and hasn't flourished since. But despite the loss and devastation, magic still flourishes in this tiny paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rhubarb Cake with Spent Beer Grains and Pineapple Weed Ice Cream","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson, who has a gift for seeing the magic in the natural world, had long been questioning why the abundant resources he grew up with weren't being utilised. He got a job at his uncle's now-shuttered Reykjavík restaurant, Turninn, as a banquet cook and, later, a pastry chef, not long before the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F7851853.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2008 financial crash\u003C\u002Fa\u003E profoundly impacted the country's economy. His family was struggling to find work in Reykjavík, so they moved back to Heimaey. They knew he wanted to do something meaningful after he finished culinary school in 2011, so when his mother brought up the idea of creating a restaurant on their home island, the answer was simple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a dream to open a restaurant that would celebrate local cuisine,\" he recalls. \"But we didn't have carpenters, and had no money. We were working every morning until 11 at night for seven months to rehab the space, which hadn't been used in over 40 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a dream to open a restaurant that would celebrate local cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn opened in 2012, and was the chef's first restaurant – though he's now on his third (he was chef and co-owner of Matur og Drykkur in Reykjavik's harbour district, and currently co-owns cocktail bar \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fskalrvk.com\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fna01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=http%3A%2F%2Fskalrvk.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cbcec0be2207348530f0808d96672a780%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637653464891200033%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=HSCkw9FTNmuoEQr6oWL%2BKQVqumup1NK7VZYDKOeGuVA%3D&reserved=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkal!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Reykjavík's Hlemmur Food Hall). He has taken advantage of the eight months each year Slippurinn isn't open to learn new skills in restaurants across the world, and has done pop-ups in London, Hong Kong, Greenland, Switzerland and Italy. Through it all, his family has been by his side. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson\u003Cem\u003E's\u003C\u002Fem\u003E mother, Katrín Gísladóttir, who started out working front of house at Slippurinn and now handles bookkeeping and floral design, admits there were occasional differences here and there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Heimaey is the oldest, largest and only inhabited of the Westman Islands archipelago","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every family has them,\" she admits. \"In some ways [the experience] brought us closer, and we have learned more about each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne thing Auðunsson was surprised to learn, however, involved his island's greatest industry: fishing. As it turned out, getting fresh fish from the boats into his restaurant wouldn't be as seamless as he initially expected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Iceland, restaurant owners have to buy fish from an online auction, or order directly from the larger companies,\" he shares, \"so you can't just go up to your local fishermen and get something straight from their boats – even if that makes perfect sense since they're right there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, after a promise from his father, Auðunn Stefnisson – Slippurinn's handyman and a fisherman himself – that their fish would go to feed locals, not \u003Cem\u003Eonly\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tourists, the fishermen changed their practices to contribute to their town's newest restaurant. In the 2021 season alone, Slippurinn served up 19 kinds of local fish and six shellfish varieties, totalling 3.8 tons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll that seafood serves as a rich palette for the many seaweed varieties Auðunsson forages, such as the delicate, hair-like strands of sea truffle, which he dries, ferments and purees, then serves alongside sweet langoustine in a rich beurre blanc with an apple, kohlrabi and wild sorrel salad. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson serves local Icelandic fish at his restaurant, Slippurinn","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe kelp he pulls off giant rocks jutting from the Atlantic are longer than a firehose, and as thick and wide as Thor's belt. In his kitchen, it becomes part of an elegant chicken stock that serves as a bath for a cod head the size of a deflated basketball. Once cooked, the head is doused in Birkir (birch liqueur) and bruleed, creating a sticky-crunchy-sweet umami bomb that's as addictive as it is Instagram-worthy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough it may seem novel, cod head plays a pivotal role when it comes to preserving Iceland's culinary past. Iceland has been a long-time exporter of dried cod, as early as the 13th Century, to many places in Europe – particularly Portugal, Spain and Italy. Referred to as stockfish because the head was not traditionally part of the export, cod heads remained in Iceland where locals used to eat it boiled with a bit of salt. Today, Icelandic cod is exported all over the world, and both stockfish and dried cod heads are exported to Italy as well as Nigeria – the largest market for dried fish in the world – but Auðunsson feels strongly that Icelanders should still be eating those cod heads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are a lot of Icelanders who don't know about Icelandic food anymore,\" he says, \"and it's important that we don't forget how things were done. We need to preserve our history.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy putting his own stamp on old traditions, he's moving Icelandic cuisine into new gastronomic territory. He even dips cod throat in beer batter, deep fries it and serves it with herbed aioli.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Slippurinn incorporates Birkir (birch liqueur) onto its dishes and drinks","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson also turns cod into perfectly salty discs topped with browned butter and pickled seaweed in an Icelandic take on sour cream and onion crisps, and dresses dried kelp crisps – so light and delicate, they crunch-melt on your tongue – with homemade sour cream and lumpfish roe as pink as a rose petal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis commitment to using local resources has always been strong, but it was his experiences in restaurant kitchens across the world that opened his eyes to just how rich some of his native resources really were.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was staging in New York, they were importing oyster leaf from Alaska, and I was sure I had seen these leaves before,\" he says. \"I realised that these leaves they were paying a dollar per piece for grew on the beaches back home!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAt Slippurinn, you can find oyster leaf on top of radishes stuffed with homemade mayonnaise. There may also be grilled broccoli slathered in garlic mayonnaise and crusted in panko and dried fish flakes, which is like crunchy, battered fish without most of the fish or grease; angelica-cured halibut so thin and translucent that the tiny pops of pink arctic thyme dusted on top turn it into art; pineapple weed ice cream with the fragrance and flavour of its namesake fruit – despite actually being chamomile – topped with a tart-sweet wild rhubarb compote; and skyr, an Icelandic cheese similar to yogurt, with wild sorrel granita and toasted oats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sheep roam Iceland's island of Heimaey","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson's sister, Indíana Auðunsdóttir, designed Slippurinn, and was largely responsible for the evolution of the cocktail programme, which is informed by what grows on Heimaey. What started as a popular wild rhubarb mojito with rhubarb from neighbours' yards led to a mojito made of white rum, raw sugar, sorrel syrup, lime, lemon bitters and sparkling water; a cocktail made of arctic thyme simple syrup, pear cider, lemon and Reyka vodka; and an Icelandic riff on a piña colada, with angelica liqueur, cream and pineapple weed vodka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also honeyed dandelion and licorice-y chervil syrups, homemade kombuchas, teas and tinctures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09yf5k7.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Slippurinn's illustrated cocktail guide, which is placed on every table, pineapple weed (called \u003Cem\u003EHlaðkolla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Icelandic) is described as \"the most exotic flavour of any herb in Iceland, which tastes quite like sweet pineapple and grows in the lava fields.\" Auðunsson elevates the weed to star status in his Icelandic Piña Colada, which relies on a base of homemade pineapple weed vodka, cream and angelica seed liqueur. He also uses the yellow tops, or buds, of the weed in an intensely creamy, deeply aromatic ice cream, the recipe for which can be found in his cookbook. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOften referred to as false or wild chamomile, pineapple weed (\u003Cem\u003EMatricaria discoidea\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) can be found in different parts of the world, growing in sidewalk cracks, parks, driveways, walking paths and places where dry soil is abundant – such as the lava fields where Auðunsson forages for his. The fact that the conical-shaped, yellowish-green buds have no petals will give it away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Tastes like pineapple","calloutTitle":"A flavourful weed","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough many of his ingredients may be unrecognisable, his food is comforting and approachable. Whether you call his style New Nordic, New Icelandic or even Modern Icelandic Comfort, the most accurate descriptor isn't an official culinary classification: transformative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmerican chef and TV host Ming Tsai had Auðunsson on his show, Simply Ming, in 2018, and was blown away by his signature bruleed cod head. Tsai, known for his East-West fusion cuisine, grew up cooking in his family's Chinese restaurant and admitted to eating his share of fish heads. Yet, in the span of 30 seconds, Tsai said, \"oh my God\" five times, followed by \"unbelievable\", \"incredible\", \"this is freaking delicious\" and \"seriously, one of the best ever\", with a grand finale of, \"my grandma is so jealous right now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETsai's reaction shows how Auðunsson's reimagining of Icelandic cuisine is so unique that even those familiar with what he's serving are moved by their experience of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne can only imagine what Tsai might have said had he tried Auðunsson\u003Cem\u003E's \u003C\u002Fem\u003Esimple, yet remarkably rich appetiser of trout on burnt flatbread with horseradish cream and red onion. Auðunsson smokes the trout over sheep's dung, fusing modern preparation with a cooking tradition created when alternate fuel sources were necessary, not optional. He supports local farmers who compress dung and hay, then semi dry it, just as it was done hundreds of years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xxxmsonormal\"\u003E\"The dung never touches the food, but gives it a special kind of smokiness,\" he says. \"It's unlike anything you've ever tasted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180117-in-iceland-food-is-a-challenge-not-a-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIn Iceland, food is a challenge, not a meal\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210211-ana-ros-the-chef-who-put-slovenia-on-the-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAna Ro&scaron;: The chef who put Slovenia on the map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGuillemot eggs as blue as the sky are also unlike anything most people have tasted – or seen. Foraged by rope on the edge of cliffs throughout the Westman Islands, the speckled turquoise eggs are emptied out and used as serving dishes for a custard Auðunsson serves with rye bread, lovage and pickled onions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESlippurinn is not easy to get to, does no advertising and is only open four months every year. Yet an old shipyard machine factory on an island with less than 5,000 people has become a destination dining spot. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We all had a big ambition to have something different from other restaurants, but I never dreamed Slippurinn would be as famous and good as it is,\" Gísladóttir says. \"I am really happy about how it turned out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cod Wing with Young Spruce Hot Sauce","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAuðunsson shares his mother's pride – especially when it comes to the way Slippurinn has been received in his own country. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Using the things around you when they're in season wasn't done by many in Iceland,\" he says, \"but it has been changing for the better the last few years, and I think we've influenced others in that way. I also think both the general public and those in the industry really appreciate Icelandic food instead of looking down on it as they did years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the cookbook, Slippurinn: Recipes and Stories from Iceland, coming out on 13 October, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FMichelinGuideUK\u002Fstatus\u002F1097547719290339329\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichelin Bib Gourmand recognition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for his cocktail bar, Skal!, and a spot on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fslow-food-chefs-alliance-to-be-started-iceland\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food Chefs' Alliance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where his voice impacts Iceland's food heritage and agricultural landscape, the future looks bright for Auðunsson.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't have a specific passion for fine dining or selling groceries,\" he says. \"My vision is bigger: I want to put Icelandic food on the map. Fifteen years ago, I don't think this would have worked, but people are definitely ready for a change. You can feel it. I think there are really exciting times ahead for Iceland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Raw Vegetables and Oyster Leaf Emulsion","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERaw vegetables and oyster leaf emulsion\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's nothing better than crunchy raw vegetables or a newly cleaned salad right after harvest. With a little bit of seasoning here and there, the right amount of acidity, salt and fat, you can create something extraordinary from just simple raw vegetables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the dehydrated lovage powder:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E40g lovage\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDehydrate the lovage on a baking sheet in an oven on the lowest setting or in a dehydrator at 55C (130F) for about 10 hours or until completely dry. Blend in a blender until it's a fine powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the oyster leaf emulsion:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E40g oyster leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g parsley\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E300ml vegetable oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 clove garlic\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 shallot\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 egg yolks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g Dijon mustard\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10ml apple cider vinegar sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Elemon juice\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPut the oyster leaves, parsley, vegetable oil, garlic and shallot in a blender and blend for about 8 minutes or until the oil reaches 75C (167F). Strain and let cool. Put the egg yolks, mustard and vinegar into the clean blender and blend. With the blender running, add the green oyster leaf oil and continue blending until the mixture is completely emulsified. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the raw vegetables:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E4 carrots, cleaned\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10 radishes, cleaned\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECut the vegetables into bite-size pieces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo plate:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Eoyster leaves, for garnish\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the side of each plate smear the emulsion and dust over the dehydrated lovage powder. Place the raw vegetables on the other side of the plate and garnish with the extra oyster leaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(Credit: Gísli Matthías Auðunsson, Slippurinn)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-12T21:22:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Slippurinn: The restaurant reinventing Icelandic cuisine","headlineShort":"The Icelandic cuisine born from crisis","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Slippurinn serves a dish of guillemot eggs, a local delicacy, in their shells","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"63.4428894","longitude":"-20.2783328","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Slippurinn serves a dish guillemot eggs, a local delicacy, in their shells","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On the small island of Heimaey, chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson is at the helm of a food movement that honours Iceland's history while coaxing it into a new era of innovation.","summaryShort":"Despite loss and devastation, magic still flourishes in this tiny paradise","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-11T22:04:19.348249Z","entity":"article","guid":"bb1530f0-4a85-4796-92f7-511ddb0a9485","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:35:37.337174Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep","_id":"624ec6751f4b7b2a25399a9e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Meet Heiða Guðný Ásgeirsdóttir, the sheep farmer and former model who is fighting for her beautiful and remote corner of southern Iceland.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"At the end of the road","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe long, bumpy dirt and gravel road off Iceland’s main highway, an hour or so east of the seafront village of Vík, seems to lead nowhere. Past the tiny Grafakirkja church, little farmhouses thin out into nothing but a green glacial landscape, riven with streams and flanked by the mountains of Iceland’s Southern Highlands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut at the end of the road, in a simple bungalow, lives Iceland’s most celebrated sheep farmer. Heiða Guðný Ásgeirsdóttir, now 40, is a former fashion model and local policewoman, who took over the family farm at Ljótarstaðir when she was 23, when her late father could no longer manage the 6,464-hectare farm. Now she lives there with her mother and 500 or so sheep, which she manages by and large alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut she’s now best known as an environmental activist. When an Icelandic power company proposed plans in 2012 to build a hydroelectric station whose reservoir would cover much of her farm, she refused to sell her land and fought the proposal, despite fierce pressure from the company and other locals who wanted to sell for significant profit. Her passionate fight drew the attention of Steinunn Sigurðardóttir, a novelist and poet who had never written non-fiction before but decided to write the book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.forlagid.is\u002Fvara\u002Fheida-fjalldalabondinn\u002F\"\u003EHeiða – Fjalldalabóndi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, about her (the name Fjalldalabóndi translates as ‘The Farmer in the Valley’, Ásgeirsdóttir’s nickname locally).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A reluctant heroine","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When Steinunn called me and asked, has anyone ever written a book about you? I said, ‘Er, no’,” Ásgeirsdóttir recalled. “The idea was way out of my comfort zone, but I wanted to draw attention to the fight I was in for my home – and also to the life of a sheep farmer. I didn’t realise, though, that so much of it would be about me.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the book was published in 2016, Ásgeirsdóttir was terrified. “I remember going to the publishing party and thinking I’d have a heart attack. There were all these people there for a book that was all about me. All I wanted to do was disappear, to be back on the farm with my sheep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the response to the book has been hugely positive. “The other day, I opened my postbox and there was a bottle of Cognac with a message, saying ‘With love, your readers’. That’s happened a few times, and more and more people stop to talk about it. I’m getting used to it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd, for now, the plans for the hydroelectric plant are off. “But I don’t dare to say we’ve won,” Ásgeirsdóttir said. “I still want to fight for this beautiful place.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"‘Blessed be the countryside’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sign in the kitchen represents Ásgeirsdóttir’s view of the land where she grew up. “You can’t be a farmer if you don’t respect and love the land,” she said. “This place is everything to me. It’s my home and my life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe river that runs through her farm, which would have been affected by the power plant, has a particular place in her heart. “It’s my happy place, where I used to go as a child to play with cars or dolls or whatever. We’d always end up down there, and we’d swim on warm days.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe river just has to be there. It’s like breathing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p05hywl8","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Where the elves live","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I know every little rock, every little contour of the land around here,” Ásgeirsdóttir said. “Growing up, there were stories about so much of it – like how the elves once saved a child from drowning in the river.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to local folklore, there are no ghosts in the hills around Ljótarstaðir farm – only the elves, who are widely regarded as a benign force. “The elves in our mythology are a force for good,” Ásgeirsdóttir said. “They’re not scary – they keep us safe.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The life of a sheep farmer","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EManaging the farm is an intense, year-round commitment – even in the summer, when the sheep are up in the hills. “That’s when we fix things, maintain the farm and make hay for the sheep in the winter,” Ásgeirsdóttir said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the autumn, the sheep come home and the lambs go to the slaughter; in winter, Ásgeirsdóttir works to keep the animals safe and well fed, and scans them for foetuses; and, in the spring, she shears the sheep. “It can be a hard, physical job.” she said. “Just today I was driving a 20-tonne digger, lifting hay bales and fixing fences.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn February 2017, she caused quite a stir at the world sheep-shearing competition in New Zealand, as the only woman in the machine-shearing division. “It was an amazing experience, but I didn’t do that well,” she said, bashfully.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"On feminism","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many women in Iceland – a country known for its gender equality, which this year became the first to legally enshrine equal pay for men and women – Ásgeirsdóttir is a committed feminist. “I struggled when I was a model,” she said. “I’d been this tall, skinny, strange-looking kid, and women kept telling me I could be a model. I did it for a while, and went to New York for a modelling competition – but standing there just looking pretty felt stupid to me. I wanted to let my work talk.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I want to tell women they can do anything, and to show that sheep farming isn’t just a man’s game. I guess I’ve always been a feminist. When I was growing up, there was a female president, and I used to wear the same clothes and play with the same toys as the boys. It was just normal to me.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy old agent lost my book, so I only have a few pictures left. It’s strange to look at them – like looking at a different me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"An up-close look","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EÁsgeirsdóttir has started doing hiking tours around the farm in the summer, with shorter tours of two to three hours and longer tours for five or six hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s quite irregular, because I can only do it between commitments on the farm,” she admitted. “But I love to show people this part of the world. People on the tours generally ask about life on the farm: what I do, what it’s like, how I keep myself entertained. It’s a tough life in many ways, but the truth is that I’m on Facebook like everyone else – the internet has shrunk the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"To the Highlands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe area around the Ljótarstaðir, like much of Iceland, is spectacular. If you go back to the fork in the road from the farm and head north on the bumpy track for a few hours (if the road is open), you get to the Southern Highlands, a raw and untouched part of the country whose spectacular peaks were formed by the collision between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHighlights include Landmannalaugur, where a geothermal hot spring and campsite is surrounded by vividly coloured rhyolite mountains; and the Fimmvörðuháls mountain ridge, where people can hike beneath the Eyjafjallajökull volcano to the steaming craters that were formed by its epic eruption in 2010.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My dream is to have all the Highlands as a protected national park,” Ásgeirsdóttir said. “Even many Icelanders don’t realise just how beautiful it all is.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"To the ocean","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESouth of Ljótarstaðir, the circular road around Iceland leads west to Vík, which is known for its pretty little church and the Reynisfjara black sand beach, whose black lava sand and spectacular basalt rock formations and stacks are said to have frightened trolls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAround a 20-minute drive west of Vík lies Solheimasandur, a black beach famous for the abandoned US Navy plane that crash-landed here in 1973 – and which Ásgeirsdóttir is somewhat bemused by. “It was just there for all these years and no one really paid much attention,” she said. “But then people started photographing it, and it became this hotspot for tourists.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, few can argue with some of the natural sights on the same road – like the booming Skógafoss waterfall, a huge sheet of water that crashes 60m, creating so much spray that you can see a rainbow on sunny days. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe south coast is all about black beaches, waterfalls and spectacular scenery. It’s marvellous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A simple life","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut back on the farm, things are quiet. “It’s just me, my mother and the sheep,” Ásgeirsdóttir said. “My two sisters never wanted to do this, so it’s up to me to keep the farm going.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s a simple life, and it can be hard. But look at what I’m surrounded by. I’m lucky.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep-26"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-10-04T17:20:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Icelandic model who shears sheep","headlineShort":"The Icelandic model who shears sheep","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Meet Heiða Guðný Ásgeirsdóttir, the sheep farmer and former model who is fighting for her beautiful and remote corner of southern Iceland.","summaryShort":"‘It’s a simple life, and it can be hard. But look at what I’m surrounded by’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:28:10.896825Z","entity":"article","guid":"8f71c384-fbe7-490c-882c-4855d2f507bb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:16:53.291423Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","_id":"624ec6741f4b7b7a7d57fdc0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, it would be ‘þetta reddast’, which roughly translates to the idea that everything will work out all right in the end.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAs people the world over are sheltering in place, many are looking to find comfort and contentment amid a very difficult situation. To help people cope, BBC Travel is updating some of our most popular stories on uplifting cultural practices around the globe that offer inspiring ways to find hope when times are tough.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWith generations of hardships such as formidable weather, poverty and volcanic eruptions, Icelanders have learned to adopt the resilient Icelandic outlook of \"þetta reddast\", which shows that sometimes, it’s better to let go and look positively towards the future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were somewhere in the remote Westfjords, a large peninsula in Iceland’s north-west corner, when our campervan first stalled. It was late September, the end of the tourist season in a part of Iceland that sees about 6% the country’s annual tourist numbers, and the roads were all but empty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe van stalled twice more as my husband and I made the roughly 200km drive from Látrabjarg, a windswept bird cliff perched on the far western edge of Iceland, back to our base in Ísafjörður, the Westfjords’ largest town (pop: 2,600). Once we finally got back to our apartment, we called the campervan rental company and told them the issue. Unfortunately, the town’s mechanic wouldn’t be available before we were due to make the drive back to Reykjavik.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Well,” said the campervan agent, “\u003Cem\u003Eþetta reddast\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180117-in-iceland-food-is-a-challenge-not-a-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe planet’s most extreme cuisine?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171015-why-norway-is-teaching-travellers-to-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe code that travellers need to learn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170910-the-remote-ranch-at-the-bottom-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA strange life at the end of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA quick Google search informed me that þetta reddast (pronounced \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fi-heart-reykjavik\u002Ficelandic-phrase-of-the-issue?in=ayumi-akashi\u002Fsets\u002Fi-heart-reykjav-k\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethet-ta red-ust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E) doesn’t mean ‘sorry, I’m not paid enough to care about your troubles’, or ‘try not to get stranded in the middle of nowhere’. It means ‘it’ll all work out in the end’ – and if Iceland had an official slogan, this would be it. The phrase near-perfectly sums up the way Icelanders seem to approach life: with a laid-back, easy-going attitude and a great sense of humour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s just one of those ubiquitous phrases that is around you all the time, a life philosophy wafting through the air,” said \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.aldasigmunds.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlda Sigmundsdóttir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of several books about Iceland's history and culture. “It’s generally used in a fairly flippant, upbeat manner. It can also be used to offer comfort, especially if the person doing the comforting doesn’t quite know what to say. It’s sort of a catch-all phrase that way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, it seems an odd philosophy for a place where, for centuries, many things absolutely did not work out all right. Since Iceland’s settlement in the 9th Century, its history is littered with the tales of times when þetta reddast did not apply.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If Iceland had an official slogan, this would be it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn her book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aldasigmunds.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fthe-little-book-of-the-icelanders-in-the-old-days\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Little Book of the Icelanders in the Old Days\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sigmundsdóttir recounts some of these hardships: the long winters; extreme poverty; indentured servitude. There were volcanic eruptions, like the 1783 Laki eruption that killed 20% of the 50,000-strong population, as well as 80% of its sheep, which were a vital food source in a country with little agriculture. There were storms that swept in and sank the open rowboats used for fishing, wiping out much of the male populations of entire towns. Things were so bad that even up through the 18th Century, according to Sigmundsdóttir, 30% of babies died before they turned one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Iceland of old was an exceptionally hard place to live. And the Iceland of old wasn’t that long ago. “It hasn’t been that long since we were a society of farmers and fishermen, and the seasons and the harsh conditions we lived in had complete control over our lives,” Auður Ösp, founder and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fiheartreykjavik.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI Heart Reykjavik\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tour company, told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Iceland today is an ultra-modern place where wi-fi is abundant, credit cards are accepted everywhere, and the majority of the country is powered by geothermal energy, it was only about 90 years ago that 50% of the population lived in turf houses (traditional homes with walls and roofs made of earth and grass) – so these hardships aren’t such a distant memory. Just 45 years ago, the Eldfell volcano exploded on the small island of Heimaey, spewing millions of tons of ash, engulfing 400 buildings and forcing the evacuation of all 5,000 people who lived there. And just 23 years ago, a massive avalanche decimated the town of Flateyri in the Westfjords, burying more than a dozen homes and killing 20 of the town’s 300 residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven on a day without disasters, Iceland is beholden to the forces of nature. The island moves and breathes in a way few others do; fumaroles exhale steam; hot springs gurgle; geysers belch and bubble; waterfalls thunder. The country sits on the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, and those plates are slowly moving apart, widening Iceland by about 3cm per year and causing an average of 500 small earthquakes every week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Iceland is beholden to the forces of nature","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe country’s weather is just as volatile and formidable. Windstorms can reach hurricane force, strong storms can sweep in even in summer, and, on the darkest winter days, the sun shines for just four hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Those who live off the land are in constant battle with the elements,” Ösp said. “For example, when it suddenly starts to snow in August, like it happened in the north a few years ago, you need to drop everything and go out and rescue your animals. Or, when there’s a volcanic eruption that \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F8634944.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisrupts flights all over the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and leaves a bunch of people stranded in Iceland, you need to think on your feet and figure out what to do.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMaybe it makes sense, then, that in a place where people were – and still are – so often at the mercy of the weather, the land and the island’s unique geological forces, they’ve learned to give up control, leave things to fate and hope for the best. For these stoic and even-tempered Icelanders, þetta reddast is less a starry-eyed refusal to deal with problems and more an admission that sometimes you must make the best of the hand you’ve been dealt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe phrase begins to be a little more understandable when you find out that the first Icelanders weren’t marauding Vikings who bravely sailed across the ocean in search of new lands to raid and tribes to wage war upon. Rather, they were mostly Norwegian farmers and peasants fleeing slavery and death at the hands of King Harald Finehair in the 9th Century. They so feared his wrath that they risked the 1,500km journey across the rough North Atlantic seas in small open-hulled boats. It’s hard to imagine those early settlers making the journey – one undertaken with no maps or navigational tools – without a little bit of blind hope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We couldn’t live in this environment without a certain level of conviction that things will work out somehow, hard as they seem in the moment,” Ösp said. “Þedda redast represents a certain optimism that Icelanders have and this carefree attitude that borders on recklessness. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn’t, but we don’t let that stop us from trying.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With the conditions we live under, we’re often forced to make the impossible possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s not that we’re impulsive or stupid,” Ösp continued. “We just believe in our abilities to fix things. With the conditions we live under, we’re often forced to make the impossible possible.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd in many cases, Icelanders \u003Cem\u003Ehave\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made the impossible possible. They turned their stunning 2008 economic collapse and the disruptive 2010 eruptions of an unpronounceable volcano into PR opportunities that made Iceland one of the hottest destinations in the world, attracted millions of visitors and turned tourism into one of the main drivers of a now-robust economy. And in 2016, Iceland stunned the sporting world when it beat the odds to become the smallest country to ever qualify for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uefa.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUEFA European Championship\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Iceland beat England to make it to the quarter-finals against France. And though there was little chance they’d win, roughly 8% of the Icelandic population travelled to Paris to cheer on the team (they ultimately lost 5-2).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ficelandmag.is\u002Farticle\u002F45-icelanders-live-motto-thetta-reddast-quintessential-icelandic-credo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2017 University of Iceland survey \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eshowed that nearly half of Icelanders say ‘þetta reddast’ is the philosophy they live by. Perhaps, as Sigmundsdóttir and Ösp suggest, this idea that everything will work out has been infused into Icelandic culture through the centuries. After all, for those who survived – and even thrived – against all odds, everything kind of did work out all right in the end.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is just my home-grown theory,” Sigmundsdóttir said, “but I think the Icelanders had to face so many hardships that they learned to meet adversity with a combination of \u003Cem\u003Elaissez-faire\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and capitulation. It’s something that became ingrained in the Icelandic people through centuries of living with a climate and landscape that always had the upper hand, against which you had to surrender, again and again, because you couldn’t fight them. It’s difficult in Iceland not to feel your insignificance against the elements.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I think this mentality shows that we have a belief in ourselves as a nation and as individuals,” Ösp added. “Who would have believed, for example, that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fsport\u002Ffootball\u002F41574208\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea team from a nation of 350,000 people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E could make it to the 2018 World Cup in Russia? We did – that’s who.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt seems the Icelandic belief that things will turn out all right also comes with a little effort and ingenuity on the part of the believer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor my husband and I, that meant trusting that everything would work out on our drive back to Reykjavik. If the ‘þetta reddast’ attitude could help Icelanders thrive on a barely inhabitable rock on the edge of the North Atlantic, surely the same optimism could see us through a few hundred kilometres of remote mountain passes in the unreliable van.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, just like those early settlers who set sail from Norway, we set out with little assurances but a lot of hope. Of course, we had one major advantage: we had mobile phones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-23T23:54:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The unexpected philosophy Icelanders live by","headlineShort":"The odd philosophy Icelanders live by","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, it would be ‘þetta reddast’, which roughly translates to the idea that everything will work out all right in the end.","summaryShort":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, this would be it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:18:35.889721Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0d3d04d-ceb7-4c47-adf3-43df1930814b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:30:46.379995Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b198c29b381","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjulia-eskins"],"bodyIntro":"In mainland Iceland's northernmost town, the women who powered the herring industry – and fought for gender equality – are driving a new tourism boom.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen June arrives in North Iceland, the midnight sun bounces on the horizon, never fully setting. And in the town of Siglufjörður, it signals the start of new adventures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere in Siglo, as it's called by locals, summer is marked by the greening of scenic mountain trails, the flowering of purple lupines and the reedy sounds of accordions filling the warm air on weekends. Follow the music and you'll likely step into a scene straight from the 1940s: women dressed in plaid shirts, yellow aprons and red headscarves, salting and packing fish by the barrel. Known as the \"herring girls\", these locals regularly draw a crowd – not only for their lightning-speed hands but also for their live re-enactments of a lesser-known part of Icelandic history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring the \"herring adventure\" (the Icelandic fishing industry's equivalent of the goldrush) from 1910 to 1969, thousands of seasonal workers from across Iceland flocked to the herring capital of Siglo to work every summer. With herring accounting for as much as 40% of Iceland's total exports, it was all hands on deck. The women who worked on the piers cleaning, sorting, filleting, brining and barrel-packing Atlantic herring were just as vital as the fishermen at sea. Icelanders credit them for paving the way for the country's exemplary commitment to gender equality (Iceland has been named the most gender-equal country in the world for 12 years in a row, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Freports\u002Fglobal-gender-gap-report-2021\u002Fdigest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea World Economic Forum index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.) And thanks to the preservation of their history, the once-sleepy town of Siglo is now experiencing a nostalgia-fuelled resurgence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the award-winning \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sild.is\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHerring Era Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which chronicles the period through five immersive exhibition buildings filled with artefacts, visitors can walk through the original apartments of the herring girls. One of the museum buildings is located in Róaldsbrakki, a former Norwegian salting station built in 1907,where up to 50 women of all ages would share cramped quarters during the season. Not that the size of the dormitories mattered; they spent the majority of their time outside, standing over salt boxes or dancing the night away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bxwb3n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was backbreaking work,\" said Anita Elefsen, director of the Herring Era Museum. \"They would pack three to four barrels per hour throughout a 26-hour shift and then could go home and rest. Many said they came in and just laid down on the floor, completely wiped out. And sometimes, just two or three hours later, someone would knock on the window to let them know another ship had come in full of fresh herring.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost remarked on enjoying the work, even though it was difficult. And many refused to take a day off – not just for financial reasons, but also because of their shared dedication to saving and processing a valuable and highly perishable national resource, said Elefsen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Icelandic model who shears sheep\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe restaurant reinventing Icelandic cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe odd philosophy Icelanders live by\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe herring adventure marked the first time Icelandic women held a prominent role in the workforce. By the 1920s, the herring girls established Iceland's first women's union and fought for higher wages, coinciding with the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-34602822\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewider suffrage movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Unlike other professions at the time, herring girls eventually had the opportunity to earn equal (and sometimes more) money than men because they were paid piecemeal at a rate of around 30 ISK (£0.18) per barrel. By working quickly and efficiently, they could earn up to 1,290 ISK (around £7.50) per day, which empowered them to buy homes or vehicles, study, travel and have a sense of independence. Due to the work of the women's union, the amount they were paid per barrel increased by more than 70% between 1929 and 1962.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBirna Björnsdóttir, a herring girl who's now in her 80s, began working on the assembly line at age seven. She now participates in the museum's live herring exhibitions that take place on the pier in front of the Róaldsbrakki building, which she said still stir up the same joy and excitement she felt as a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sometimes we were in the middle of a dance when the horns sounded, and we had to go back to work","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was such a fun time. Yes, we worked a lot – my longest shift was 36 hours,\" she said in an interview with the museum. \"The 'call boys', who were 11 or 12 years old, were tasked with waking us up when the boats came in. Sometimes we were in the middle of a dance when the horns sounded, and we had to go back to work. We just changed from our party dresses to work suits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESiglufjörður's population peaked in the 1940s and 1950s at 3,000 people (today, it's less than half that). Walking down the main street used to mean elbowing your way through crowds. But when the fishermen came back empty-handed in 1969 due to the collapse of the herring stocks, almost everyone left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bxwb36"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't until the 1990s, when a group of volunteers (mainly teachers from the local high school) rallied together to restore the abandoned old salting station and create the museum, did the town start to rebound. And after winning a European Museum Award in 2004, it solidified Siglo's position as a must-visit stop along North Iceland's scenic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arcticcoastway.is\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArctic Coast Way\u003C\u002Fa\u003E driving route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitorship to the museum is steadily increasing. And with 2022 set to be its busiest year yet, according to Elefsen, Siglo is experiencing a second boom – this time because of tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even though we don't fish for herring anymore, preserving and sharing our history has made us capable of somehow rising again and turning into a popular destination,\" she said. \"People from all over the world now come here year-round.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIcelanders see the value in it too, with many of the historical items on display in the museum – from record players to vintage dresses – arriving by way of donations from former herring girls' families. More than 20 years later, the museum still receives at least one new item per week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Siglo was once difficult to access, a tunnel through mountains now connects it to the city of Akureyri and the rest of north-eastern Iceland, making it easier to reach. Meanwhile, expedition cruise ships bring in history lovers by the boatload.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENew ventures in town are popping up to meet this growing interest in Icelandic history. Next door to the museum is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.segull67.is\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESegull 67\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a brewery located inside an old fish freezing plant that offers tastings among antique machinery. And in the restored marina village, brightly painted buildings house cafés like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hannesboy.is\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHannes Boy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, named after a local legend and fisherman, and the charming \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.siglohotel.is\u002Fen\"\u003ESiglo Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, whose nautical-themed rooms have views of the surrounding mountains. While they're in town, adventurous travellers often head to the peaks of Tröllaskagi (Troll Peninsula), a mecca for backcountry and heli-skiing in the winter and hiking and horseback riding in the summer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bxwb30"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Tourism has increased quite a bit in the north,\" said Harpa Hlín Jónsdottir, a local guide who leads treks with her company \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.visittrollaskagi.is\u002Fen\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Ftrolli-ferdafelag\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrolli Ferdafelag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I think more people want to experience activities in untouched nature. The hiking trails here were formed by sheep and aren't human-made – it's a true adventure.\" Her newest project is working with the municipality to re-mark several trails, which will allow seasoned hikers to independently explore the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Herring Era Museum also has plans to expand its offerings. The former salt house is currently undergoing a restoration that will see a new exhibition focusing on wintertime during the herring era, when most of the men would leave town and the women would stay and have union meetings in preparation for the next season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEventually, the ground floor exhibition of Róaldsbrakki will be refreshed to better highlight the voices of the herring girls. Elefsen and a camera crew have spent years travelling around the country interviewing more than 70 herring girls about their experiences. They plan to install immersive video installations, allowing guests to hear first-hand accounts of the women's daily lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's not only a matter of entertaining our visitors, but it's also about passing the knowledge onto the next generations","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith recent summers leading to more than 50 live herring exhibitions on the pier, many former herring girls are still donning their uniforms. Increasingly, however, they're passing the rubber gloves to young Icelanders, who despite never working on real assembly lines, are more than happy to re-enact the magic of salting herring under the midnight sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not only a matter of entertaining our visitors, but it's also about passing the knowledge onto the next generations,\" said Elefsen. \"Somehow, we're keeping the tradition alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe herring adventure may be over, but for the tiny town just a whisper below the Arctic Circle, a new tourism-focused one has just begun. On endless summer days, the herring girls are still making history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bxwb1q"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-30T13:51:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Iceland's unsung 'herring girls'","headlineShort":"Iceland's unsung 'herring girls'","image":["p0bxwb49"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"66.15191","longitude":"-18.90936","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bxwb49"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211011-slippurrin-the-restaurant-reinventing-icelandic-cuisine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171003-the-icelandic-model-who-shears-sheep","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In mainland Iceland's northernmost town, the women who powered the herring industry – and fought for gender equality – are driving a new tourism boom.","summaryShort":"They paved the way for Iceland's exemplary commitment to gender equality","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-29T13:58:16.954226Z","entity":"article","guid":"0f8d02de-5074-4e95-997f-fd632cdbdae0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:37:48.298158Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ficeland"],"destinationStat":"europe_iceland","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","_id":"624ec6a61f4b7b704128d777","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Scarlette Le Corre edges slowly through the sun-blazed shallows at low tide, emerald sea lettuce and ginger sea spaghetti kaleidoscope around her rubber boots like two-tone marbling ink. No step is taken without first scrutinising the marine life at her feet – this highly trained eye doesn't miss a subaqueous beat. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A head of rock-clinging sea lettuce unveiled by the ebbing ocean is deftly cut off and popped in her bucket of water. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A fistful of coarse red dulse and clumps of green hairy \u003Cem\u003Echeveux de mer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grass kelp) – which sea-vegetable gourmets in France simply rinse, twirl in olive oil and eat – get the chop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nature is generous and gives us many riches,\" said Le Corre. \"I've eaten seaweed for 35 years and am in good form – eat algae and life is \u003Cem\u003Etrès très belle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDisarmingly petite and passionate, with a tendency not to mince her words, Le Corre is the original female French fisher. Back in 1979 she was one of the nation's first women to pass her \u003Cem\u003EBrevet de mécanicien à la pêche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, qualifying her to captain a saltwater fishing boat, and has since spent four decades working tirelessly in a masculine industry where women at sea are traditionally believed to bring bad luck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer day begins at 04.30 in Le Guilvinec, a salt-of-the-earth fishing port in Finistère, southern Brittany – the sort of place where street graffiti reads \u003Cem\u003E\"plus de pêcheurs, moins de supermarchés\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (more fishermen, less supermarkets) and the menfolk spend two weeks at sea working the town's 43-strong fleet of deep-sea trawlers. By 06:00, Le Corre is alone at sea in her 1950s orange-and-white boat called \u003Cem\u003EMon Copain \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(My Boyfriend), tending her cultivated sea fields of wakame garlands or casting her nets for sole, red mullet and the occasional lobster or octopus to sell at morning markets in Le Guilvinec and neighbouring Penmarc'h. Afternoons are spent gathering seaweed on the seashore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's no room for failure in a profession considered only for men,\" Le Corre told me, as we scrambled lithely across wet, slimy rocks together. \"As a woman in a man's world, I don't ask men for help – I assume complete responsibility to the very end.\" Mention retirement to this feisty grandmother and her pace only quickens. Her secret? \"A slice of bread or toast each morning with \u003Cem\u003Etartare d'algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made from raw seaweeds, olive oil, colza oil and rock samphire vinegar,\" she explained proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre holding strands of kombu in cooking workshop","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sea lettuce, dulse and nori Le Corre forages to make the tangy, strong-tasting spread is organic and fresh off the rocks around Pointe de la Men Meur in Le Guilvinec. Long ago historians identified this flat granite headland, pocketed with bizarre lunar-like sinkholes, as the site of a quarry where millstones were dug out in the Middle Ages, and later, until the 17th Century, round stone bases for the many roadside crosses peppering this Celtic region in north-west France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial. The daughter of a fisherman, Le Corre began working with seaweed to supplement her fishing income in the early 1990s – long before the ugly-but-edible sea vegetable became \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea fashionable \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Algaculture is a centuries-old living Breton tradition she simply grew up with. \"I have collected seaweed from the moment I could walk. My parents went, and I followed,\" she said. In April alone, at the height of the wild seaweed season, Le Corre typically gathers 10 tonnes of thongweed (sea spaghetti), Breton kombu and royal kombu along the rocky seashore – all by hand with a knife and scissors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPowerful memorabilia at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecomusee-plouguerneau.fr\u002F\"\u003EÉcomusée des Goémoniers et de l'Algue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Museum of Seaweed Harvesters and Seaweed) in the village of Plouguerneau, further along the coast in Pays des Abers, tells the Breton algaculture tale. Black-and-white photographs show 19th-Century \u003Cem\u003Egoémoniers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed harvesters) raking kelp – the generic name for brown drift weeds – washed ashore on sandy Breton beaches and piling it onto horse-drawn wagons with pitchforks. Antiquarian prints depict them carting the kelp off to nearby sand dunes to dry and burn it for several days in open-air ovens. The stench of acrid smoke was vile, but the valuable iodine-rich ash could be sold to iodine factories on the northern coast for glass making. Remaining cinders were scattered on farmland as fertiliser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther harvesters worked out at sea from flat-bottomed wooden boats, using long-handled sickles to guillotine strands of weed growing in wild underwater kelp forests near the shore and around offshore islands: 25 tonnes of cut kelp produced 1 tonne of ash or 15kg of iodine. Harvesting was strictly seasonal (March to September) and everyone had a second occupation – fishing or farming – to ensure a year-round income.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210613-why-the-french-rarely-say-i-love-you\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy it's hard to find love in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland's forgotten 'seafood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200311-a-tiny-country-between-france-and-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French republic no one knows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, algaculture produces more than 30 million tonnes of seaweed globally a year and is booming (35.82 million tonnes in 2019 compared to 4.2 million in 1990 and 0.56 million in 1950, according to the UN's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fdocuments\u002Fcard\u002Fen\u002Fc\u002Fca9229en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood & Agriculture Organisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's 2020 World Fisheries and Aquaculture Report). However, European farmers remain responsible for less than 1% of world production and favour wild stock over farmed. But in Brittany, where the rocky coastline tangoes for 2,700km and 1,000-odd islands and islets speckle the pristine offshore waters, the landscape is slightly different. Exceptional water quality, coupled with miles of protective rocky shores to keep strong currents at bay, render Brittany seaweed farmland \u003Cem\u003Epar excellence.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed flourishes in temperate water and sunlight, which is why it grows in shallower waters near land,\" Le Corre explained. In the sea, not far from shore, a myriad of white dots bobbing on the water could easily be mistaken for a colony of resting seagulls. The floating grid of white buoys is actually her cultivated sea field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of Le Guilvinec from rocks at Pointe de la Men Meur, Brittany","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters, responsible for the sum total of French seaweed production: 75 goémoniers in Brittany hand-pick 5,000 tonnes of wild seaweed a year and 35 farmers harvest 65,000 tonnes from Breton sea fields. It is no coincidence that one of Europe's largest seaweed fields – 150 hectares of brown laminarians (royal kombu, dulse and wakame) cultivated by organic producer Algolesco next door to Le Guilvinec in Lesconil – grows in the middle of a marine nature reserve protected for its valuable species and habitats by the European Union's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fenvironment\u002Fnature\u002Fnatura2000\u002Findex_en.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENatura 2000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E network. Algolesco recently began exploiting another 207 hectares in sheltered waters offshore from Moëlan-sur-Mer, further east. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product,\" asserted small-scale farmer Le Corre, who yields three tonnes of organic wakame a year from her single hectare at sea. Each October she suspends her culture lines of baby seaweed in the Atlantic and six months later, after several nail-bitingly destructive winter storms, she sets sail in Mon Copain to heave out lines heavy with silky, nutrient-laden wakame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries Bretons have boiled frizzy-red pioka (Irish moss) in milk to make a natural gelling agent used in \u003Cem\u003Efar Breton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of clafoutis or sweet batter flan). Long before the invention of aluminium foil, cooks in Brittany wrapped fish in leaves of nori or dulse to keep it moist while cooking. On Breton islands where trees are few, seaweed substituted firewood as fuel until well after World War One. On Île de Molène, islanders traditionally smoked rolls of hand-cut pork over a seaweed fire for five consecutive days to create aromatic sausages called \u003Cem\u003Esaucisses de Molène, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand they remain an artisanal speciality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries seaweed was considered a poor man's food – it was originally fed to cattle after all – and was only really embraced by vegetarians in the late 20th Century. Today a new generation of contemporary chefs in Brittany, like David Royer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.castelach.fr\u002F\"\u003ECastel Ac'h\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Plougeurneau) and Mickaël Renard at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hoteldelamer.bzh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHôtel de la Mer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Brignonan), are embracing Brittany's natural bounty of sea veg with newfound gusto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I take the best of what I have around me – which is what grows in my garden and the sea, my 'other' garden right in front of me. It is now fashionable to eat seaweed, but it has always been eaten here in Brittany,\" said Royer. \"In a restaurant you have to be careful how you present it on the plate. If it looks like seaweed, it doesn't work – but incorporate small pieces throughout and it is sensational.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre foraging for seaweed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGastronomic meals at Castel Ac'h open with an apricot, cheese and dulse \u003Cem\u003Esablé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (shortbread) and a basket of \u003Cem\u003Epain aux algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed bread) accompanied by salted Breton butter spiked with nori flecks. Every course incorporates seaweed, including dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs canny in the kitchen as at sea, Le Corre cooks up a seaweed storm at her wildly popular \u003Cem\u003Edégustation\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tasting) and cooking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alguerie.com\u002Fatelier%20de%20decouvertes%20des%20algues\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she demonstrates how ancient conservation methods (such as salting and pickling) and family recipes marry with local algae to sensational effect: syrupy wakame jam paired with warm goats' cheese on toast; mackerel and wakame \u003Cem\u003Erillettes;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a sweet spoon of velvety salted butter caramel peppered with wakame flakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach dish combining her dried or fresh salted seaweeds, mustards, condiments and chutneys is sublime. Each is also turbo-powered when you consider that sea lettuce, for example, contains eight times more vitamin C than an orange and 10 times more calcium than milk. Chemical- and preservative-free, the only source of nutrients in algo-cuisine is the natural ebb and flow of the tide and the rise and fall of the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A fistful of seaweed is food for a month. Everything traditionally done with fruit and vegetables, I do with seaweed,\" said Le Corre with pride. \"It is my heritage – a \u003Cem\u003Esavoir faire\u003C\u002Fem\u003E born from the beaches I grew up on, the rocks I mucked around on, the endless days I spent with my father at sea 60 years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-30T10:45:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","headlineShort":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.2520","longitude":"3.9301","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","summaryShort":"Some 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-29T22:05:44.413419Z","entity":"article","guid":"07c60a33-cf79-4f1e-bfa3-d808cca1ffea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:33:19.890309Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","_id":"624ec6911f4b7b549a4784b9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In France's Basque country, a quaint bakery still uses old methods to make the region's beloved shortbread cake. The sights and sounds of the mill and bakery keep people coming.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You'll have to move quickly,\" Gerard Lhuillier told me as I stepped inside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moulindebassilour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoulin de Bassilour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, camera in hand. \"The cakes are almost done!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt 08:00 on a weekday morning, the quaint bakery in the French Basque village of Bidart is buzzing. Many hands shuffle dozens of round cake tins from one station to another in perfect synchronisation. Owner and head baker Lhuillier stamps circles in a layer of dough. Another baker spreads the filling – either black cherry jam or yellow pastry cream. As the cakes get their tops, the team comes together to seal the layers with a fork. A metallic scratching sound fills the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Basque cakes are topped with dough and then sealed with a fork","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rounds of raw dough, now shiny from a brush of egg wash, are loaded onto wooden planks and carried to the brick oven. These 150 traditional shortbread cakes – called \u003Cem\u003EGâteau Basque\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – are the bakery's pride and joy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country, a region known for fierce cultural pride. Like the trendy \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Frecipes\u002Fbasque_burnt_cheesecake_12442\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eburnt Basque cheesecake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that hails from the nearby Spanish coast, the popularity of the Gâteau Basque lies in its elegant simplicity and a recent interest by international visitors looking to sample a decidedly regional treat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the exact origins of the recipe are unclear, legend has it that a Basque woman named Marianne Hirigoyen is to thank for the modern version of the cake. Originally from a thermal village called Cambo-les-Bains, Hirigoyen began to make and sell her Gâteau Basque in the market of Bayonne sometime around the 1830s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the next century, the cake remained a traditional dessert eaten after Sunday dinners as each household's recipe was passed down from one generation to the next.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen tourists began to discover the Basque coast in the 1960s, they brought back tales of beautiful beaches and a crumbly, cream-filled cake that couldn't be found anywhere else. In recent years, Gâteau Basque has become a tourist attraction in its own right, and today the cake is proudly displayed in bakery windows around the region. At Moulin de Bassilour, however, visitors and locals come for more than just a taste of the bakery's signature item: here, passers-by get a first-hand look at how the cake was made generations ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the frenzy of baking had almost subsided, Lhuillier brought me into the bakery's front room where thick stone walls braced by wooden beams keep the air cool even in summer. Two large mills sat dormant in the centre of the room. Through the window, I could see that the stream running under the bakery was still.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Passers-by get a first-hand look at how the cake was made generations ago","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier poured a sack of wheat into the hopper. He pulled on a long, metal lever, and water gushed almost instantly. The stones began to turn. What could have been mistaken for a museum only seconds ago is now overcome by a symphony of clicks and whirring. Through a crack in the floor, I could see the water splashing violently against the mill's wooden paddles. Out of the grinding table came a chalky, fine powder: flour to be used in the next day's cakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe water mill was constructed around 1741, Lhuillier told me, and sits on a canal that was dug by hand specifically for that purpose. For almost 200 years, the mill remained two simple rooms with an oven only big enough for a few loaves of bread. Farmers could pay the mill owner to grind their harvests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gerard Lhuillier makes flour from a water mill that was constructed around 1741","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1934, the grandmother of Lhuillier's wife arrived in Bidart with her seven children and saw an opportunity. Using her traditional Gâteau Basque recipe, she began to make and sell cakes to support her family. When she retired, she handed over the business to her son.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1994, after having trained as a mechanic and served in the army, Lhuillier found himself working in a hardware store. Although he had never baked before, he jumped at the chance to buy the bakery and the original recipes along with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe perfect French baguette\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrance's fight over chocolate pastry\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200520-rice-pudding-a-simple-french-dish-made-from-pantry-staples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA simple French dish made from pantry staples\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis in-laws were hesitant, but Lhuillier convinced them that his love for tinkering with all things mechanical was the perfect match for the historical operation. In the years that followed, Lhuillier added a more modern atelier to the bakery and invited the Basque country's growing number of tourists to come and see the mill at work. Maintaining a centuries-old water mill in functioning condition is not easy, but Lhuillier says it's been a life-long passion project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I know I will die before I finish everything that I need to do and want to do,\" he said. \"But I've already done quite a bit and that gives me great satisfaction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's unclear what will happen to the mill once Lhuillier can no longer be its champion. He doesn't see a clear successor but says the threats to the mill's existence stretch beyond a question of inheritance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"At Moulin de Bassilour, visitors get a first-hand look at how the Gâteau Basque is made","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince the early 2000s, environmentalist groups in France have alleged that water mills, even historical ones, bear some responsibility for the decline in native fish populations. In the past decade, dozens of water mills have been disassembled or otherwise rendered inoperational as local governments decide that the environmental damage outweighs the need for preservation of the heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier believes the environmental groups are turning a blind eye to the real culprit for the lack of fish – pesticides and pollution that are far less visible than the paddles of a water mill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sixty years ago, there were fish. That means the water wheel didn't bother them,\" he said. \"I'm worried that when I'm gone, the mill will stop. It's a battle.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn a sunny summer day, questions about the mill's future seem a distant worry. Customers wander around the millstones before heading into the bakery to buy the fresh-baked goods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm sending these to Paris!\" one woman explained, as her two golden brown cakes were wrapped in white wax paper and tied with ribbon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile many visitors enjoy the black cherry filling, Lhuillier says that the pastry cream flavour is actually the more traditional of the two varieties since it uses the same, simple ingredients found in the dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The typical fillings for Gâteau Basque are either black cherry jam or yellow pastry cream","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a cake from grandma's house with the ingredients of the farm: milk, flour, eggs. It's passed down in families,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUp until the 1980s, Moulin de Bassilour made its fruit-filled version of the cake with apricot jam. Now, Lhuillier uses a local black cherry variety, which is another traditional flavour. His homemade pastry cream still remains the best seller.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Many bakers flavour their pastry cream with almond, but on a farm we would never start to add an ingredient that costs a lot of money,\" he said. \"Our flavouring is a bit of rum because in Basque country there's always a bit of rum on hand for cooling down the coffee.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier says his commitment to the simplicity of the recipe is what keeps the bakery going year after year, and he feels proud to continue the tradition of his region. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We haven't changed the recipe for more than 60 years but each generation that passes likes it, he said. \"It's a Gâteau Basque that pleases the palettes of people who come from everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-09T20:19:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Basque cake made with a 280-year-old water mill","headlineShort":"A sweet emblem of French Basque Country","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"43.4331177","longitude":"-1.5729942","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In France's Basque country, a quaint bakery still uses old methods to make the region's beloved shortbread cake. The sights and sounds of the mill and bakery keep people coming.","summaryShort":"People come here for more than just a taste of the bakery's signature item","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-08T20:20:11.529239Z","entity":"article","guid":"cb46981a-b6e7-4ff7-8491-ceb0c948e9de","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:30:37.462544Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","_id":"624ec67b1f4b7b4f741315eb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement,\" said famed French chef Alain Ducasse, taking a sip of crimson-hued sparkling wine, surrounded by the empty wooden tables of his Paris restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.auxlyonnais.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAux Lyonnais\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It was a warm day in March 2021. A soft breeze floated into the restaurant through the takeaway window, sunbeams illuminating the empty burgundy leather booths. The maitre d', dressed in a suit, glided between the kitchen and the curb, brown paper bags brimming with plant-based fare ready to hand off for delivery. The crinkling of the bags in motion was the loudest sound in the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThings are different now. After months of lockdown measures, curfews and restaurant closures, Paris is slowly beginning to resemble its former self. The packed tables of cafe terrasses spill off pavements and onto boulevards, waiters once again balancing glasses of rosé on silver platters and cigarette smoke lingering in a never-fading cloud. The chirping birds along the Boulevard Saint-Germain have been replaced by the constant drone of revving engines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Chef Alain Ducasse sitting at a table at his Paris restaurant Aux Lyonnais","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Ducasse – currently the world's most Michelin-starred chef and emblematic figure of French gastronomy, often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine – gastronomy had been quietly evolving behind the doors of shuttered kitchens during the pandemic's darkest days. He says Covid-19 accelerated the next \"re-evolution\" of French gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn March 2020, the order to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-51892477\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshut down restaurants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to the pandemic sent chefs into a tailspin. After getting the news on a Saturday evening with a room full of diners, Ducasse learned he would need to close at midnight, without any foresight as to when they might reopen. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We lost a lot of merchandise, and gave a lot of merchandise to employees,\" he said. \"It was too fast.\" France's dining scene ground to a halt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse took a sip of wine. Behind him, an antique clock sat atop a mirror in the back corner of the restaurant. It was stuck on 06:43. He put a paper napkin on his lap. \"The French are very strongly rooted in tradition,\" he said, laying out bamboo cutlery with concentration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty Avenue des Champs Elysees and Place Charles de Gaulle during Coronavirus lockdown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Unesco inscribed the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fgastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egastronomic meal of the French\u003C\u002Fa\u003E onto its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, permanently enshrining the French meal under its protection. However, the designation isn't just about the food. It emphasises all the traditional elements that comprise a gastronomic meal in France, from the notion of conviviality – the idea of gathering together in a warm-hearted atmosphere – to the thoughtful selection of high-quality local produce. Other elements in the designation include table setting, food and wine pairings and a fixed meal structure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe designation underscores the importance of dining as a process, which has even been enshrined into French law: until the pandemic, for example, it had been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp096gb9c\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eillegal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for employees in France to eat lunch at their desks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFast-forward to 2020 amid continued restaurant closures, where delivery drivers sped down deserted Parisian streets, shuttling Michelin-starred cuisine ready to be plated up against the backdrop of the latest Netflix series.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Ducasse didn't see this pandemic shift as a threat to French gastronomy. It was an opportunity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom,\" he said. In France, such progressions aren't new. The last momentous evolution of French food – Nouvelle Cuisine, spearheaded by Paul Bocuse in the 1970s – was in large part driven by the desire by chefs to create cuisine for which they themselves would be recognised, breaking from traditional dishes to make lighter, healthier and hyper-personalised dishes that challenged some of the rules of classic French cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet the traditional ritual around the meal remained rigid. A mere few years ago, the topic of the \"doggy-bag\" – bringing leftover food home from a restaurant – sparked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2014\u002F11\u002F14\u002Fworld\u002Feurope\u002Fbrushing-off-a-french-stigma-that-doggie-bags-are-for-beggars-.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now, it's mandatory for restaurants to provide takeaway materials to diners in an effort to cut food waste, prompting the Ministry of Agriculture to rebrand the practice as the sexier\"gourmet bag\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Short: Delivery person wearing a protective mask riding bike near Jardin des Tuileries in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDucasse is not a figure that one would traditionally associate with takeaway, paper napkins or cheap food. But in April 2020, Ducasse, who had never offered a takeaway or delivery service before – or even considered it – launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-chezmoi.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDucasse Chez Moi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an online delivery platform featuring a selection of dishes from his Paris restaurants including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-champeaux.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChampeaux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spoon-restaurant.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As part of the shift, he also launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.naturaliste-paris.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENaturaliste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an inexpensive, plant-forward delivery and takeaway restaurant in the kitchen of Aux Lyonnais, behind its shuttered dining room. Essentially, a ghost kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We would have never dared to do it if we didn't have to. It was an opportunity. Restaurants were closed, so we said we're going to try food differently,\" he explained. \"It would be accessible; a food that we could deliver, and a food specially edited for delivery.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I spoke with Ducasse in March, he didn't seem fazed by the transition to delivery. He was sitting up straight in his wooden chair, gesticulating with enthusiasm as he talked about his ideas for the future. The maitre d' was busy greeting customers at the takeaway window, taking orders for Naturaliste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ducasse, Covid-19 sped up France's next gastronomical evolution, which he says is marked by a profound desire for human contact, an interplay between global influence and local produce, the growing role of plant-based cuisine and a rapidly evolving consumer. \"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them,\" he said. \"You have to take them on a journey.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of takeaway container with braised spring vegetables from Naturaliste in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaryann Tebben, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FS\u002Fbo70563942.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESavoir-Faire: A History of Food in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eexpands on the notion of a changing consumer, reflecting on how \"they hear about it, they're reading about it, they're careful about the ecological footprint that they have, and they're more savvy than their parents or grandparents were about what food does for the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I think of French cuisine, plant-based cooking isn't the first thing that comes to mind. I think of meat, of Toulouse sausage, foie gras and calf brains. But, Ducasse points out, the growing emphasis on plant-based dishes didn't happen overnight; in recent years, vegetable-forward menus have been growing in the nation's top kitchens. And at Ducasse's restaurants, this focus goes back even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1987, he introduced plant-based menu Jardins de Provence to his three-Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-paris.com\u002Fen\u002Faddresses\u002Flouis-xv-alain-ducasse-hotel-paris\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Louis XV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Monaco. Now, \"30-40% of clients choose this 100% vegetarian menu,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200520-rice-pudding-a-simple-french-dish-made-from-pantry-staples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA simple French dish made from pantry staples\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191120-anne-sophie-pic-the-chef-who-rules-france\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnne-Sophie Pic: the chef who rules France\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Basque cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatrick Rambourg, a researcher specialising in French gastronomy and the author of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpatrickrambourg.unblog.fr\u002F2012\u002F07\u002F16\u002Fhistoire-de-la-cuisine-et-de-la-gastronomie-francaises\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie françaises\u003C\u002Fa\u003E(History of French cuisine and gastronomy),has also been observing the transition to more sustainable cuisine in recent years. He agrees that France is in the midst of its next culinary evolution; and in his view, it wasn't catalysed by the pandemic. Instead, the movement has been slow and profound, he believes, growing due to an interplay between changing consumer demands and the eagerness of chefs to embrace the challenge of transforming vegetables into the star of a dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The chefs are aware of a changing consumer that cares about where products come from. There are also people that want to eat high-end cuisine, gastronomy, but don't want to eat something unhealthy,\" he said. \"There's a change in consciousness around cuisine. Kitchens don't have a choice but to adapt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever it has come about, Ducasse is embracing the shift toward sustainable, vegetable-forward cuisine. In September, Naturaliste will transform into Sapid, a more permanent plant-based restaurant centred around conviviality on Rue Paradis in Paris's 10th arrondissement. It will feature a refectory-setup with communal tables, encouraging the social contact that people lacked during the past year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People dining outside at cafe and restaurant terraces along Paris's Seine river at dusk","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack at Aux Lyonnais, the maitre d' reappeared and placed two cardboard boxes on the table. I peeked inside. The dishes – roasted cabbage with avocado and smoked eel, and braised seasonal vegetables with sauteed mushrooms and quinoa – were the creations of young Peruvian chef Marvic Medina Matos, who has worked in the kitchens of three Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-plazaathenee.com\u002Ffr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-meurice.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Meurice Alain Ducasse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer dishes emphasise local produce and sustainability. \"We work with respect to the seasons, and our menu changes according to the season,\" she told me. \"I love putting the producers and ingredients forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse frames this next re-evolution of French cuisine as \"local in production, global in the vision\" with careful attention to the quality of ingredients, recalling Unesco's insistence on \"the balance between human beings and the products of nature\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHuman beings, however, are not as malleable as farm-grown asparagus or the country's hundreds of varieties of cheese. Evolution is shaped as much by resistance as by change, and some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFrance's cultural rituals have endured wars and revolutions. Ultimately, amid a year of stay-at-home orders and delivery-bound gastronomy, have the French changed their habits?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse looked down at his glass. \"They've kept the bad habits,\" he said with a grin, taking another sip of sparkling wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-23T15:13:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","headlineShort":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.8707445","longitude":"2.3365293","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","summaryShort":"The French revolution that has chefs sharpening their knives","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-22T15:57:15.170243Z","entity":"article","guid":"e50b0403-a879-455f-8d47-3ab2121c48b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T03:29:04.195102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people","_id":"624ec6d31f4b7b685d6ba7aa","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Japan’s indigenous people, the Ainu, were the earliest settlers of Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island. But most travellers will not have heard of them.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is our bear hut,” the short, vivacious woman shouted through a hand-held loudspeaker, her smile creasing her forehead with deep wrinkles. A blue hat was perched on her head and her short tunic, embroidered with pink geometric designs, was tied sharply at the waist. She pointed at a wooden structure made of round logs, raised high above the ground on stilts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We caught the bears as cubs and raised them as a member of the family. They shared our food and lived in our village. When the time came, we set one free back into nature and killed the other to eat.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHaving treated the bear well in life, her people believe the spirit of the sacred animal, which they worship as a deity, will ensure the continued good fortune of their community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKimiko Naraki is 70 but looks decades younger. She is Ainu, an indigenous people who now live mostly on Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, but whose lands once spanned from northern Honshu (the Japanese mainland) north to Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands (which are now a disputed part of the Russian Federation). The Ainu have long been of interest to anthropologists because of their cultural, linguistic and physical identity, but most travellers will not have heard of them. That’s because although they were the earliest settlers of Hokkaido, they were oppressed and marginalised by Japanese rule for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Ainu have had a difficult history. Their origins are murky, but some scholars believe they are descendants of an indigenous population that once spread across northern Asia. The Ainu called Hokkaido “Ainu Moshiri” (“Land of the Ainu”), and their original occupation was hunting, foraging and fishing, like many indigenous people across the world. They mainly lived along Hokkaido’s warmer southern coast and traded with the Japanese. But after the Meiji Restoration (about 150 years ago), people from mainland Japan started emigrating to Hokkaido as Japan colonised the northernmost island, and discriminatory practices such as the 1899 Hokkaido Former Aborigines Protection Act displaced the Ainu from their traditional lands to the mountainous barren area in the island’s centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s a very ugly story,” said Professor Kunihiko Yoshida, law professor at Hokkaido University.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EForced into agriculture, they were no longer able to fish for salmon in their rivers and hunt deer on their land, Yoshida said. They were required to adopt Japanese names, speak the Japanese language and were slowly stripped of their culture and traditions, including their beloved bear ceremony. Due to the wide stigmatisation, many Ainu hid their ancestry. And the long-term effects are clear to see today, with much of the Ainu population remaining poor and politically disenfranchised, with much of their ancestral knowledge lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong other nefarious practices, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002F07\u002F25\u002Fnational\u002Fjapans-indigenous-ainu-sue-bring-ancestors-bones-back-home\u002F#.XrJyym5S_Up\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapanese researchers ransacked Ainu graves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from the late 19th Century to the 1960s, amassing huge collections of Ainu remains for their study and never returning the bones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERecently, however, things have started to look up for the Ainu. In April 2019, they were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2019\u002F02\u002F25\u002Freference\u002Fjapans-ainu-recognition-bill-mean-hokkaidos-indigenous-people\u002F#.XrKQm5MzY6g\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elegally recognised as an indigenous people of Japan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the Japanese government, after many years of deliberation, which has resulted in a more positive appreciation of Ainu culture and renewed pride in their language and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It is important to protect the honour and dignity of the Ainu people and to hand those down to the next generation to realise a vibrant society with diverse values,\" said government spokesman Yoshihide Suga, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.straitstimes.com\u002Fasia\u002Feast-asia\u002Fjapan-to-recognise-indigenous-ainu-people-for-first-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas reported in The Straits Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENaraki continued showing us around the Ainu \u003Cem\u003Ekotan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (village). Still smiling, she pointed to a wooden, cupboard-like structure. “This is the toilet for the men,” she said, giggling. Next to it was a smaller, teepee-style hut. “And this one is for the women.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I want to tell the world that Japan has indigenous people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaraki leads tours of this kotan to teach visitors about her culture. It is part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.city.sapporo.jp\u002Fshimin\u002Fpirka-kotan\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESapporo Pirka Kotan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Ainu Culture Promotion Centre), Japan’s first municipal facility featuring indigenous people, where visitors can experience Ainu handicrafts, watch traditional dancing and imagine traditional Ainu life when this area was a vast wilderness and the people lived on and with the land. Located approximately 40 minutes by car from downtown Sapporo, Hokkaido’s capital city, the centre was opened in 2003 to teach both other Japanese and foreign visitors about Ainu culture and spread their message to the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“97% of Ainu are underground. But the people who come here to events are very proud of their culture,” said Jeffry Gayman, an educational anthropologist at Hokkaido University who has been working with the Ainu for 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe pride is especially evident in the centre’s small, well-kept museum, where Ainu artefacts, such as traditional clothing and tools, are carefully displayed. Upstairs are rooms where visitors can join workshops on Ainu embroidery or learn how to make the traditional Ainu musical instrument \u003Cem\u003Emukkuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a bamboo mouth harp). By hosting events, members of the community are able to educate the wider world on their history and situation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If I try to tell people about Ainu rights and empowerment, no-one is interested. But when people see our dancing or music, it makes them interested in learning more about us,” explained Ryoko Tahara, an Ainu activist and president of the Ainu Women’s Association.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191001-japans-mysterious-lake-of-the-gods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's mysterious 'lake of the gods'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200503-the-indigenous-communities-that-predicted-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe indigenous communities that predicted Covid-19\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200510-japans-formula-for-life-satisfaction\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's formula for life satisfaction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough this centre is a significant step in sharing Ainu culture nationally and internationally, no-one lives here. The kotan is a replica to show people what traditional Ainu life was like. Only a few isolated neighbourhood pockets of Ainu people remain, scattered across Hokkaido, with most of the estimated 20,000 Ainu (there are no official figures) assimilated into cities and towns around the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, travellers who look carefully will be able to see traces of their culture everywhere. Many place names in Hokkaido have Ainu origins, such as “Sapporo”, which comes from the Ainu words \u003Cem\u003Esat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dry), \u003Cem\u003Eporo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (large) and \u003Cem\u003Epet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (river) due to its location around the Toyohira River; or “Shiretoko” – a peninsula that sticks out from Hokkaido’s north-eastern tip – which can be translated as “of the ground” (\u003Cem\u003Esiri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and “protruding point” (\u003Cem\u003Eetuk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd Ainu pride is visible at events like the annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan.travel\u002Fen\u002Fspot\u002F538\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarimo Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Lake Akan and the Shakushain festival in Shizunai; and in groups like The \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsite.uit.no\u002Fainu\u002Fainu-art-project\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAinu Art Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 40-member group that share Ainu culture through their Ainu and rock fusion band and handmade arts and crafts. Restaurants such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkerapirka-snack-bar.business.site\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKerapirka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sapporo serve up traditional Ainu food and act as a hub for the local community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“And you can see Ainu values in any settings where Ainu people gather, whether that be inside their home, at a local town gathering or an event. But you need to know what you’re looking for,” said Gayman, explaining that “generosity and hospitality” are core Ainu principles. “They’re light-hearted people,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Ainu have also become more prominent on the national stage, with activist Kayano Shigeru elected to the Japanese parliament in 1994, where he served five terms; and the hugely popular manga series, Golden Kamuy, pushing Ainu culture into the national spotlight over the last couple of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In the last few years, people have become more interested in the Ainu; it has become a hot topic in Japan,” said Tahara. “That makes me proud that people will know about the Ainu, but there is still work to be done.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe latest step forward for this community is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kantei.go.jp\u002Fjp\u002Fsingi\u002Fainusuishin\u002Fpdf\u002Fsymbolicspace_e.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESymbolic Space for Ethnic Harmony\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Shiraoi, Hokkaido, a new complex currently under construction by the government to showcase Ainu culture. Made up of a National Ainu Museum, the National Park for Ethnic Harmony and a memorial facility, it was scheduled to open in April 2020 in time for the Olympics, but has been delayed due to Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The recognition is very symbolic, but not so meaningful","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, many experts believe that the recent recognition of the community is not enough, saying it is merely lip-service by the government, with the new Ainu bill failing to provide Japan’s indigenous people with clear and strong rights.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Ainu still cannot fish their salmon and dams are still being built that submerge sacred sites,” said Yoshida. “There’s no self-determination, no collective rights and no reparations. It’s just a cultural performance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The recognition is very symbolic, but not so meaningful,” he added with a sad laugh, noting that Japan is far behind the world standard in treatment of indigenous people. “It’s a shameful situation. That’s the reality.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I followed Naraki on her tour of the kotan, it seemed clear, however, that public interest in Ainu culture is strong. Groups of Japanese people and other visitors, who’d arrived by bus-load from Sapporo, jostled for pictures in front of the \u003Cem\u003Epu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the hut for storing food, which is located directly opposite the \u003Cem\u003Eporo-ci-set\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where the village chiefs lived in order to keep a stern eye on the village’s communal larder. “The elders would resolve any disputes in the village,” Naraki said. If no one could agree, they would discuss for three days and three nights and then make a decision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe explained how the Ainu’s lives were tied to the land. Kotans would be constructed along rivers or by the sea where water was plentiful and safe from natural disasters. Food was foraged or hunted, with staple proteins including salmon, deer and bear. They would pick wild grasses, vegetables, mushrooms and berries, such as \u003Cem\u003Ekitopiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Alpine leek) and \u003Cem\u003Eshikerepe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (berries of the Amur cork tree), never picking everything at once and always leaving the roots so the plants could keep growing. Food was simple, with animal oil, kelp and salt the only flavourings, and millet their main grain. Clothes were made with animal or fish skin, or woven with tree bark or nettle fibres.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELiving in harmony with nature is a way of life that many Ainu would like to return to. “Eventually what I want is to get back some land so we can hunt and fish freely as well as do our traditional farming,” Tahara told me. Increasing numbers of Ainu are also starting to relearn their language, which is linguistically isolated and declared as critically endangered by Unesco.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat are your other hopes for the future, I asked Tahara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I want to tell the world that Japan has indigenous people. People don’t know,” she said. “I want us all to respect each other, to treat each other respectfully and live peacefully in this country. And, of course, I would like our ancestors’ bones returned. Bring them back to the graves they were taken from.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Four-unique-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOur Unique World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that celebrates what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-20T21:06:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Japan’s forgotten indigenous people","headlineShort":"Japan’s forgotten people","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.2203","longitude":"142.8635","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Japan’s indigenous people, the Ainu, were the earliest settlers of Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island. But most travellers will not have heard of them.","summaryShort":"'I want to tell the world that Japan has indigenous people'","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:49:28.345703Z","entity":"article","guid":"4071ef7e-bf4e-4975-bec2-4e4e4e3a1888","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:09:27.472801Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309487},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate","_id":"624ec67b1f4b7b549861b566","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In recent years, the internet has been alight with speculation that a chart-like carving in Anuradhapura is a stargate: an ancient gateway through which humans can enter the Universe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESri Lanka's sacred city of Anuradhapura is an unlikely place to be enmeshed in a fantastic tale of UFOs and otherworldly happenings. Locally known as Rajarata (Land of Kings), the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F200\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was the first established kingdom on the island (in 377 BC) and is at the heart of Sri Lanka's Buddhist culture. Today, it's one of the nation's most visited places, attracting devoted pilgrims from around the country to its ancient Buddhist temples and giant dome-shaped stupas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this holy city is also home to something far more curious. Here, in Ranmasu Uyana (Golden Fish Park), a 40-acre ancient urban park surrounded by three Buddhist temples, is a chart that's alleged to be a map to unlock the secrets of the Universe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMeasuring around 1.8m in diameter, Sakwala Chakraya (which translates to \"Universe Cycle\" in Sinhalese) is shallowly carved onto a low rock face among the protected park ruins. Its front facade can only be seen from ground level. In fact, four seats have been sculpted into a flat rock surface opposite that provide the ideal viewing area. Both the map and seats, which are also of mysterious origin, have puzzled historians, archaeologists and academics for more than a century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Its existence, function or anything related to it is not mentioned in any historic records","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Ranmasu Uyana was used for a prolonged period in history,\" said Professor Raj Somadeva, senior professor of archaeology at the University of Kelaniya, Sri Lanka. \"The second major developmental phase seems to have begun in the 7th Century CE. During that period, several new buildings were added to the earlier garden layout. The chart could be a work of this period, but it's impossible to know because its existence, function or anything related to it is not mentioned in any historic records, which were meticulously kept by Buddhist monks.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile little is known about the chart and its purpose, the iconography is incompatible with other carvings of the Anuradhapura period (3rd-10th Century AD). The chart's centre is made up of seven concentric circles divided by parallel vertical and horizontal lines. Rectangular compartments contain small, crossed circles. To the untrained eye, there are figures resembling umbrellas or bow and arrows, a kite, wavy lines and cylindrical shapes. An outer ring depicts marine animals: fish, turtles, seahorses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen compared to other carvings from the same period such as the Sandakada Pahana, which depicts vines, swans and a lotus, all typical of Buddhist iconography, the chart is without religious context, leaving it without an obvious explanation as to why it is here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis has left it wide open to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=B-W-nQOQdq8\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline speculation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Before the dawn of the internet, the chart garnered little attention in Sri Lanka. It is thought to have survived here, tucked away at the edge of a boulder, after the fall of the Anuradhapura kingdom; unremarkable in comparison to its breath-taking surroundings complete with twin ponds and bathing pavilions believed to have been used by kings. In fact, if aliens did arrive on Earth through here, they couldn't have picked a nicer place – these sacred temple grounds, cloaked in thick, tropical jungle, are mostly uninhabited and protected by the authorities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first academic to note the chart's archaeological importance was H C P Bell, a British civil servant appointed as the first Commissioner of Archaeology of Ceylon (Sri Lanka's former name). Bell included a description of the chart in his 1911 report for the Governor of Ceylon, where he concluded that, \"This ancient 'map of the world', perhaps the oldest in existence, is of quite extraordinary interest. Its presence… testifies to the antiquity of that astronomical lore still pursued in some of the Buddhist monasteries of Ceylon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the chart does not resemble a map in a modern sense, Bell wrote that it depicts \"an old-time cosmographical chart illustrating in naivest simplicity the Buddhistic notions of the universe\". He interpreted the circles, the symbols and marine life on the chart, based on his knowledge of Buddhism on the island, to mean the Earth, the seas, outer space and the Universe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile discussions around the chart for many years were mainly confined within academic circles due to its historically important location, the explosion of photo-sharing on social media over the last few years has shone a global spotlight on the mystery. Eagle-eyed tourists have remarked on parallels between the chart in Anuradhapura and similar sites in other countries that are believed by some to be stargates – ancient gateways through which humans could enter the Universe. Their theory goes that the chart holds the secret code for unlocking the portal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002F8916898.blogspot.com\u002F2013\u002F10\u002Fthe-star-gate-of-sri-lanka.html?spref=pi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConspiracy theorists noted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the stargate of Anuradhapura had near-identical shapes and symbols to those found at Abu Ghurab in Egypt and La Puerta de Hayu Marka in Peru. The most striking similarity, it was said, as speculation around Sri Lanka's stargate reached its peak, is its proximity to water. The nearby Tissa Weva reservoir, built in 300 BC, has been thrown around as conclusive evidence, since both Abu Ghurab and La Puerta de Hayu Marka were also built near water, which, according to the stargate theory, allowed extra-terrestrial beings to process gold from Earth's water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US' lost, ancient megacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201106-where-you-can-see-the-soul-of-the-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere you can see the soul of the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200907-the-mystery-of-central-asias-desert-kites\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA mystery in Asia's forgotten desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis otherworldly theory has been further fuelled by the chart's proximity to Danigala mountain, also known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.attractionsinsrilanka.com\u002Ftravel-directory\u002Fdanigala-circular-rock\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlien Mountain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in the nearby sacred city of Polonnaruwa. Danigala, which lies deep in the jungle and is popular with hikers, has a unique circular shape and entirely flat top. This led internet sleuths to conclude that it must have, at one time, been used for UFO landings. Strangely, according to Sri Abeywickrama, a local tour guide, \"villagers in the area do believe that Alien Mountain attracts more shooting stars and thunder and lightning above it than anywhere else.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, according to Somadeva, \"There is little archaeologically to suggest that it's a stargate.\" Instead, Somadeva believes a more sensible conclusion is that the chart is an early map of the world, as suggested by Bell, because that explanation has religious and cosmological context that is logical, given the period and place in time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Somadeva, \"At least since 250 BCE, Sri Lankans had a clear idea of objects in the sky and outer space. In early Brahmi inscriptions, found in Sri Lanka, there are a number of names that refer to specific stars and concepts related to astronomy. One of the inscriptions in Kirinda, a religious and historic site on Sri Lanka's southern coast, contains the phrase '\u003Cem\u003Eaparimita loka datuya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E' meaning 'the infinite universe'. What it suggests is that the person who engraved it had a very good understanding of the nature of the universe they lived in.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Shereen Almendra, senior lecturer of landscape design at the University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, offers a different, more earthly perspective. \"I think the Sakwala Chakraya chart is a plan for a complex project similar to the enormous stupas that were being built at the time,\" she said. \"I lean towards it being a plan for Sigiriya.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESigiriya is one of Sri Lanka's most recognised ancient landmarks, a 5th Century BC rock fortress, complete with flowing water, landscaped gardens and multiple living quarters. It lies just half an hour away from Anuradhapura within \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20140929-the-ancient-cities-of-sri-lanka\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESri Lanka's Cultural Triangle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is made up of three important ancient cities: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy. \"Given that the three seats carved in front of the chart appear to slightly face toward each other, it makes me think that it was a place for discussion – an ancient architect's office if you like,\" she said. \"If the seats were built for a religious purpose, such as meditation, they would be in a straight line instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Somadeva, the greatest challenge in identifying the function of the chart has been the lack of evidence to correctly date it. While Ranmasu Uyana and other parks and stupas in Anuradhapura are mentioned in chronicles and inscriptions dating as far back as 250 BC, the Sakwala Chakraya is not described in any historical records. \"There would definitely have been a practical use for this diagram but it's a huge challenge to figure out what that might have been when we can't correctly date it,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo it seems that Sri Lanka's enigmatic alleged stargate remains shrouded in mystery, its purpose and meaning still lost to time. The chart's newly acquired cult status amongst sci-fi enthusiasts, however, has finally given it some well-deserved public attention. Thanks to their enthusiasm and the power of social media, it has finally stepped out of the shadow of larger-than-life Anuradhapura to stand apart on its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-03T22:11:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The unsolved mystery of Sri Lanka's 'Stargate'","headlineShort":"A mysterious 'portal' to the Universe","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In recent years, the internet has been alight with speculation that a chart-like carving in Anuradhapura is a stargate: an ancient gateway through which humans can enter the Universe.","summaryShort":"The map has puzzled archaeologists and academics for more than a century","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:05:29.485232Z","entity":"article","guid":"49c3b5e8-18de-4a4b-83c1-0566f11cfc0d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:26:48.580244Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b4f712529ec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A complex masterpiece of irrigation engineering design, Sigiriya's artfully designed water gardens required structural planning way ahead of its time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOrange sand particles twinkled in the sun as a lone motorbike kicked up dust in its wake. It was 09:30 on a bright Monday morning and the temperature was already creeping past 30C. A family of toque macaque monkeys swung from verdant tree branches and rolled playfully in the hot sand in front of us. But we barely took notice; we couldn't take our eyes off the 200m-high monolith in the distance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and former royal palace, is one of Sri Lanka's most visited and best-known sights, attracting just more than one million visitors in 2019. But on this sunny day in May 2021, my partner and I were the only two people there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDating back to 477 AD, Sigiriya is considered one of South Asia's best-preserved examples of urban planning and one of its most important archaeological sites. The elaborate palace and its towering construction on top of the rock, as well as its risqué artwork, resulted in its 1982 listing as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F202\u002F\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. However, its ingenious garden and water systems at the foot of the rock are what make it a national treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe gardens at Sigiriya are not only the best-preserved water gardens in South Asia but some of the oldest landscaped gardens in the world. Important guests in the 5th Century would have walked a path with the impressively designed water gardens on either side, serving as a grand entrance to the more than 1,200 steps leading up to the palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his essay \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FSigiriya.html?id=vw9uAAAAMAAJ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESigiriya: City, Palace and Royal Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Senake Bandaranayake, founding director of archaeology at Sigiriya, explained that the site is a brilliant combination of deliberate symmetry and asymmetry playing on both natural and geometric forms. \"The gardens at Sigiriya consist of three distinct but interlinked sections: the symmetrical or geometrically planned water gardens; the asymmetrical or organic cave and boulder garden; the stepped or terraced garden circling the rock, the (miniature) water garden and the palace gardens on the summit of the rock,\" he wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"p0b7n6d9","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWithin the gardens were artfully designed pools, fountains, streams and platforms that once held pavilions and performers. \"For comparison, it would have looked similar to a modern luxury resort with beautiful gardens and swimming pools,\" said Sumedha Chandradasa, a tour guide lecturer in Sri Lanka for more than 24 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESurprisingly, the detailed design of these gardens is not what's most impressive; rather it's how they work. These water systems are considered an engineering marvel due to the use of hydraulic power, underground tunnel systems and gravitational force that creates a visually spectacular system of pools and fountains still functioning almost 1,500 years later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211025-the-marvel-of-chinas-multi-generational-rice-terraces\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's ancient 'stairways to heaven'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn immense mystery 11,000 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome Sri Lankans still believe in ancient folklore that says all the water that fills the garden's streams flows down from the pond at the top of the rock. In reality, the palatial complex's water is sourced from a nearby reservoir, known locally as \"tanks\". A series of underground conduit terracotta pipes use gravitational force and hydraulic pressure to send water from the Sigiriya tank (with a slightly higher elevation than the gardens) into the different pools, fountains and streams throughout the impeccably organised gardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, some of the garden water does come from the top of Sigiriya. The pools at the top of the rock are filled with rainwater, and a series of drains cut into the rock connect to a large cistern, which feeds into the underground conduit system to help supply the gardens with water. \"The total conception involves the knitting together of a number of hydraulic structures of varied scale and character in a single intricate network – a complex masterpiece of irrigation engineering design,\" wrote Bandaranayake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBandaranayake also notes in his essay that during excavation, water conduits were found at different depths, likely to achieve varying water levels; something that required a masterful knowledge of physics and engineering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the complex's origins date to the 5th Century, the story of how it came to be seems more like a modern-day soap opera. Before Sigiriya, Sri Lanka's royal capital was located in Anuradhapura, more than 70km to the north-west. A coup, led by King Dhatesena's son from a non-royal consort, led to his bloody death and the scheming son, King Kasyapa, taking the throne.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Sigiriya with ruins of fortress, gardens and pools surrounded by jungle","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKasyapa moved the royal capital to Sigiriya, or \"Simha-giri\" which means \"Lion Mountain\", and built a new palace on top of the rock. When approaching the stairs that lead to the top of the rock and the palace complex above, you see why. \"The theory is, according to The Ancient Chronicles [Sri Lanka's historical chronicles], that he built the palace to look like a squatting lion,\" explained Jagath Weerasinghe, emeritus professor at the Postgraduate Institute of Archaeology and Sigiriya's director of archaeology. \"The lion paws are the main entrance that will take you to the top of the mountain.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKing Kasyapa ruled from there until 495 AD, when he abandoned it and the site became a Buddhist monastery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA welcome effect of visiting during the pandemic meant my partner and I had the entire complex to ourselves for several hours. While the once-plastered-and polished finishings of the water gardens have disappeared with time, we could still see the brick foundation outlines of the pools, fountains and streams that fill with water during the rainy season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne area, known as the \"miniature water gardens\" (not-so miniature; measuring 30m wide and 90m long), was split into five sections with several unique features including a snake-shaped stream that required structural planning way ahead of its time. \"A striking feature is the use of these water-surrounds with pebbled or marbled floors, covered by shallow, slowly moving water. These, no doubt, served as a cooling device and at the same time had great aesthetic appeal, creating interesting visual and sound effects,\" wrote Bandaranayake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Weerasinghe, these miniature water gardens would have been best experienced at night, under the moonlight's reflection on the shallow pools. \"There are very romantic aspects to the royal precinct of Sigiriya,\" he told me. While the miniature water gardens are no longer as spectacular as they would have been in the late 400s, the low water levels and platforms in the pond have led archaeologists to believe that they were used for musical performances – an incredibly thoughtful design feature for that period.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe kept walking along the grounds in front of the rock, through the miniature water gardens to its snake-shaped stream, which holds Sigiriya's signature water fountains. They are made of limestone plates with symmetrical holes, and even after 1,500 years, still work during the yearly monsoon rains. \"Below the fountain is a small chamber where the water pressurises, forcing the water to bubble up into the fountain about four or five inches when the water level is high,\" Chandradasa explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone staircases and pool on top of Sigiriya Lion's rock palace in Sri Lanka","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheorised to have been used by the royal family and Kasyapa's consort of women, these fountains and pools, especially the large pond on top of Sigiriya, were designed as swimming pools to give relief from the hot South Asian sun, complete with stone steps leading down into the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut beyond their beauty and practicality, the water gardens had another purpose. \"Kasyapa wanted to present water in a particular way,\" said Weerasinghe. As well as being used for pleasure, they also sent a strong message of his power and ingenuity to anyone who doubted King Kasyapa, especially Mahavihara monks, who made up the most powerful monastery in Anuradhapura and were in favour of his father.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As well as being used for pleasure, they also sent a strong message of his power and ingenuity to anyone who doubted King Kasyapa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When you look at this elaborate and very intriguing way of using water at the royal precinct of Sigiriya, he's telling something to these people about his power,\" Weerasinghe added. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPast the massive stone lion paws, at the end of more than 1,200 precarious steps up Sigiriya, our clothes were soaked with sweat and I struggled to catch my breath. We walked the ruins of the central palace and stumbled upon the summit's large pool. A dip in it like the ancient royals once did would have been tempting, but no rain in weeks and no royal servants to maintain it meant murky bacteria lurked on the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom high above, the water garden system below was clear, perfectly centred and impressively aligned. The views of the lush green jungle melding with the blue horizon seemed endless. It was an ideal place for a palace with gardens worthy of the powerful king who built it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Just imagine during the rainy season, there are clouds sitting on this hill,\" said Weerasinghe. \"Then, you are walking through this garden and you see this big pond with these water waves coming down and the fountains gushing water. Just imagine what kind of an experience that would be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Path to Sigiriya with water gardens on each side","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-06T21:17:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sigiriya: Sri Lanka's ancient water gardens","headlineShort":"A 'luxury resort' from 1,500 years ago","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Lion Rock in Sigiriya on a sunny day, Sri Lanka","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"7.9541","longitude":"80.7547","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Lion Rock in Sigiriya on a sunny day, Sri Lanka","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A complex masterpiece of irrigation engineering design, Sigiriya's artfully designed water gardens required structural planning way ahead of its time.","summaryShort":"The swimming pools and fountains are a masterpiece of engineering design","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-05T21:22:08.813037Z","entity":"article","guid":"3c980100-90af-47f1-b6ee-500f848a370f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:19.7348Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b198e3b6f58","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzinara-rathnayake"],"bodyIntro":"The Veddas were traditionally forest dwellers, who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka. But most people haven't heard of them.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is our cave,\" said the man. He was tall with curly, shoulder-length hair and his lower lip was caked red with the areca nut he was chewing. An orange sarong was tied around his waist and a small axe was slung over his left shoulder. He pointed at a dimly lit rock shelter guarded by swaying trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is where the children lived,\" he said, gesturing to a dark corner, \"and here, the men and women. You see the top there,\" he continued, showing a sun-lit platform sheathed by scattered boulders. \"That's where our leader slept, and we burnt wild boars, deer and rabbits to eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGunabandilaaththo belongs to the Vedda community, the earliest known aboriginal people of Sri Lanka. For centuries, his people \u003Cspan\u003Ewere forest dwellers\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka, relocating from one cave to another when someone from the group died. After one's death, they laid the body on the cave floor and covered it with leaves while gathering by a large tree to pray for the deceased; and offered wild meat, honey and wild tubers to their ancestors and the deities of the trees, rivers and jungles. \"We prayed for their afterlife so that their souls will belong to the deities; they will look after us,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Vedda live scattered in tiny settlements in the Hunnasgiriya hills in central Sri Lanka up to the coastal lowlands in the island's east. However, long before Indo-Aryans – who are now the dominant Sinhalese-Buddhist people – came to Sri Lanka from India around 543 BCE, the Vedda lived all around the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being Sri Lanka's earliest inhabitants, many people know little to nothing about them. For many centuries, Veddas were stigmatised and oppressed by the Sinhalese rule, and limited only to tourist interest. Today Veddas are thought to account for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstage.jst.go.jp\u002Farticle\u002Fase\u002F128\u002F3\u002F128_200428\u002F_html\u002F-char\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eless than 1%\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the national population.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwskvl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Late Physician Richard Lionel Spittel with the Veddas of Rathugala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with many indigenous groups, there's little evidence to suggest their origins. Archaeologists \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froar.media\u002Fenglish\u002Flife\u002Fhistory\u002Fthe-life-and-times-of-balangoda-man\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econnect their gene pool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to a prehistoric human called Balangoda Man, who lived 48,000-3,800 years ago and was named after the historical sites in the town of Balangoda – where his skeleton was first discovered – 160km from Colombo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGunabandilaaththo belongs to the Danigala Maha Bandaralage lineage of Vedda, a Sinhalese title given to them by the kings of the Kandyan kingdom (1476-1818). Originally, they lived in eastern Sri Lanka, in the Danigala mountain and the surrounding forests. But the construction of Senanayaka Samudra – the biggest man-made lake in Sri Lanka – in 1949, displaced this Vedda community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unsolved mystery of Sri Lanka's 'Stargate'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten indigenous people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 'luxury resort' from 1,500 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We lost some of our original forest homes because of the reservoir,\" said Kiribandilaaththo, who also belongs to the Danigala Maha Bandaralage lineage. During that time, seven families from Danigala came to live in a cave in Rathugala village in eastern Sri Lanka, which Gunabandilaaththo had shown me earlier. \"My \u003Cem\u003Eammilaaththo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Eappilaaththo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mother and father)... they were part of that group,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"[The government] had asked our ancestors whether they liked to eat rice,\" Gunabandilaaththo added, explaining that the government encouraged them to relocate to Sinhalese villages for rice farming. Most Veddas agreed; those who did not – including the seven Rathugala families – received no compensation from the government.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose that relocated had little choice but to assimilate into Sinhalese culture and intermarry with the Sinhalese. Because many Sinhalese people considered them backward and uncultured, most of them, Gunbandilaaththo said, changed their names to hide their Vedda heritage. Even their language evolved, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froar.media\u002Fenglish\u002Flife\u002Fculture-identities\u002Fvedda-language-sri-lanka\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eadapting Sinhalese words to communicate with others\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwskrp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Gunabandilaaththo shows their hunting skills to visitors at Wild Glamping Gal Oya.","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the seven families who lived in the Rathugala cave held onto their traditions for a little longer, living in the jungle and hunting and foraging for food, they gradually mingled with Sinhalese farmers and Muslim traders from nearby towns. When food was scarce in the jungle, Gunabandilaatho's parents cultivated grains like corn, finger millet, mung beans and black-eyed peas. \"We slowly started losing our way of life,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut now, things are slowly changing, with the Vedda community reclaiming their heritage along with renewed interest in these first people of Sri Lanka. \"The Sinhalese used to look down upon us,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, \"but things have changed now. People are more educated, and they are interested in knowing about us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe department of archaeology and the ministry of heritage built the Veddas Heritage Centre in Rathugala just before the pandemic, where Gunabandilaatho will be leading tours for visitors, starting in April.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProud to share his culture and traditions, Gunabandilaattho took me into the centre's small mud cottages, which are next to the cave where their ancestors resided. One was decorated with black-and-white pictures captured by the physician Richard Lionel Spittel, who often visited the Vedda habitats in the early 1900s. Another was decked with pictures of caves, a map of their original homes and statues of Veddas. Visitors can also request to see traditional ritual dances or to listen to their prayers and music.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We want to pass our cultural elements to our younger generations,\" Kiribandilaaththo said, explaining that he's happy to have the centre. Although briefly halted by the pandemic, Kiribandilaaththo conducts indigenous classes for 22 Vedda children every weekend at the centre, teaching them about their way of life and their language and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwskqz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Typical house of vedda people living in Sri Lanka","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When we were small, our parents took us to the jungle. They showed us the caves, where to drink water, and how to find our food so we would never go hungry. They showed us the streams that never dried up. So, when we go to the jungle now, we can tell if an elephant or a wild bear is near us; we smell them,\" Gunabandilaaththo said. \"We want to give the same knowledge to our small children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We teach children to never pluck a flower or a leaf from a tree if you don't have any use for it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, most Vedda people are Buddhists, but their animist beliefs are still deeply etched in them. \"We teach children to never pluck a flower or a leaf from a tree if you don't have any use for it,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, \"and never cut trees near a river stream because it will dry up.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUmayangana Pujani Gunasekara, an indigenous food researcher and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailynews.lk\u002F2018\u002F08\u002F30\u002Ftc\u002F161092\u002Findigenous-diet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVedi Janayage Sampradayika Ahara Thakshnaya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Traditional Food Technology of the Sri Lankan Vedda), explained that for a long time, Veddas have been viewed as a tourist interest in Sri Lanka. The community in Dambana, a village 65km from Rathugala and home to the Vedda of Uru Warige lineage, for example, is heavily commercialised. \"Most people complain that Veddas ask for money to even explain about their history and traditions,\" Gunasekara said. \"But you can't blame them. When \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fir.kdu.ac.lk\u002Fbitstream\u002Fhandle\u002F345\u002F5071\u002FFOL-112-118.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment regulations like Forest Ordinance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E came into place, they couldn't go hunting in the jungles. They lost their environmentally conscious traditional lifestyle and their access to foodways. So, they needed a way to survive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently, Veddas in Dambana have to haggle to sell their crafts to tourists, who often visit the village to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymirror.lk\u002Farticle\u002F-People-visit-me-only-for-a-selfie-and-I-don-t-like-it-Uru-varige-Wannila-Aththo-135553.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etake photos with the chieftain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"But, of course, authorities can have a tourism framework where it uplifts the community, both economically and socially, allowing them to preserve their heritage,\" Gunasekara said. Both Gunabandilaaththo and Kiribandilaaththo are also hopeful that tourism can bring a positive change to the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwskqd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kiribandilaaththo at the Veddas Heritage Centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe newly opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.themeresorts.com\u002Fwild-glamping-gal-oya.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWild Glamping Gal Oya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can stay in luxury tents in the forests around Rathgula, is already doing that: 13 staffers, including the hotel's chef, are Vedda people from Rathugala, while the hotel's onsite organic farm employs several others. \"Some of these young people used to move away for jobs, but they are working here now,\" said Gunabandilaaththo, who also guides hotel guests on hiking tours and sometimes takes visitors to Danigala, their original home. \"People come from Colombo – and they are excited to know about our culture and hike our mountains with us.\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Vedda staff members, who are mostly in their 20s, conduct cooking sessions for guests, preparing dishes stemming from their culinary traditions like smoked meat, wood-fired cassava roots and finger millet roti. That's because while many young Veddas know little of their heritage and traditions, a love for their cuisine remains strong. Many still go foraging in the jungle for days at a time, sleep in the caves, and fish and hunt wild animals to cook over fire. They bring back wild meat, honey and wild tubers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I still cook our food for my children and grandchildren,\" said Dayawathi, whose mother is Vedda and father is Sinhalese. She cooks curry for breakfast made of corn, wing beans, spine gourd and black-eyed peas, very different to the creamy vegetable curries made with coconut milk found in most island homes. While most Sri Lankan dishes are spice-laden, Dayawathi said she doesn't add spices. \"Instead, we mash green chillies and make a paste and eat it with helapa, which is a soft, steamed traditional finger millet dough wrapped in leaves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For lunch, we sometimes add a piece of smoked meat to the same curry,\" Gunabandilaaththo added, explaining that they also preserve smoked wild meat in honey poured into a gourd. \"I mostly eat steamed jackfruit and wild meat, and I've never been to the doctor,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, as the second chieftain of the Rathugala Veddas, Gunabandilaaththo \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fceylontoday.lk\u002Fnews\u002Fvedda-community-diminishing-at-a-rapid-pace\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunderstands that they need recognition and support\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Not only does Sri Lanka not have specific laws to protect its indigenous people, but government acts continue to prevent them from accessing their traditional hunting grounds – and a 2017 UN Human Rights review highlighted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.upr-info.org\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002Fgeneral-document\u002Fpdf\u002Frights_of_indigenous_people_factsheet_srilanka_2017.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVeddas are economically and politically marginalised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bwskq6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A carved slab of granite at the Veddas Heritage Centre in Rathugala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The government has always abandoned us. If they recognise us and our very existence, it would help us preserve our culture better,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, explaining that his community conducts a monthly meeting to talk about the need to preserve their traditions. Some young people feel strongly about their heritage, he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We were here before King Wijaya [the first Aryan king] came. We are the oldest living inhabitants in the country – and I want everyone to know that we exist here. I want everyone to know that we have our language, and we want to take it forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Four-unique-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EOur Unique World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that celebrates what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Four-unique-world","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-28T10:18:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sri Lanka's last indigenous people","headlineShort":"Sri Lanka's last indigenous people","image":["p0bwskw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"6.927079","longitude":"79.861244","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bwskw5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Veddas were traditionally forest dwellers, who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka. But most people haven't heard of them.","summaryShort":"They're Sri Lanka's earliest inhabitants – but most people haven't heard of them","tag":["tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-27T21:19:56.906089Z","entity":"article","guid":"7b31f66e-3b8e-4244-84ec-4d8cef79525d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T20:10:37.157945Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsri-lanka","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_sri-lanka_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret","_id":"624ec6751f4b7b2a27220f52","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Soy sauce is one of the most important ingredients in Japanese cooking, but chances are you've never tasted the real thing.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The real deal","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYasuo Yamamoto has a secret – or more precisely, 68 of them. On a recent morning on the Japanese island of Shodoshima, the fifth-generation soy sauce brewer slid open the door to his family’s wooden storehouse to reveal 68 massive cedar barrels caked in a fungus-filled crust. As he climbed up a creaky staircase into his dark, cobwebbed loft, every inch of the planked walkway, beams and ceiling was covered in centuries’ worth of black bacteria, causing the thick brown goo inside the barrels to bubble. The entire building was alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is what gives our soy sauce its unique taste,” Yamamoto said, pointing to a 150-year-old wooden barrel. “Today, less than 1% of soy sauce in Japan is still made this way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUntil 70 years ago, all Japanese soy sauce was made this way, and it tasted completely different to what the world knows today. But despite a government ordinance to modernise production after World War Two, a few traditional brewers continue to make soy sauce the old-fashioned way, and Yamamoto is the most important of them all. Not only has he made it his mission to show the world how real soy sauce is supposed to taste, but he’s leading a nationwide effort to preserve the secret ingredient in a 750-year-old recipe before it disappears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Different dimension","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoy sauce (\u003Cem\u003Eshoyu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis arguably the single most important seasoning in Japan’s Unesco-inscribed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-25223105\u002Fjapanese-cuisine-added-to-unesco-intangible-heritage-list\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashoku\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cuisine. It’s found in every kitchen, used in nearly every meal and placed on every table in Japanese restaurants from Tokyo to Texas. More than just a flavour, its signature umami savouriness is an entirely different dimension of taste – so much so that umami was added as one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhealth-30952637\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efive basic human tastes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E alongside sweet, sour, salty and bitter in 1908.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen it’s aged and fermented in a wooden barrel, soy sauce can be as sophisticated as a fine wine, but today, most of the world dips its sushi in the equivalent of a cheap cask rosé. That’s because in order to keep up with demand and increase production in the late 1940s, the Japanese government encouraged brewers to ditch the traditional wooden barrels used to ferment food, known as \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fkioke-soy-sauce\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ekioke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, adapt stainless steel vats and cut the multi-year fermenting process to just three months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Yamamoto, a kioke isn’t just a vessel, it’s \u003Cem\u003Ethe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E essential ingredient needed to make soy sauce, as the grain of the wood is home to millions of microbes that deepen and enrich the umami flavour. Because this bacteria can’t survive in steel tanks, many commercial companies pump their soy sauces \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.soyinfocenter.com\u002FHSS\u002Fsoy_sauce6.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efull of additives\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. So unless you’ve visited an ancient craft brewer or artisanal store in Japan, you’ve likely only tasted a thin, salty imitation of a complex, nuanced brew.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"More than soy","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor the past 150 years, the Yamamotos and their millions of microbes have been making the family’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fyama-roku.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYamaroku\u003C\u002Fa\u003E soy sauce by mixing soybeans with wheat, salt and water, and letting it ferment in a four-year process. But as more and more of Japan’s soy brewers have swapped their wooden barrels for steel tanks, a big problem has occurred: the country is running out of kioke, and almost no-one knows how to build them. In the last seven years, Yamamoto has set out to learn this ancient craft and teach it to others to try to ensure its survival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat’s at stake is something much bigger than soy sauce. Until a century ago, Japan’s five main fermented seasonings (soy sauce, miso, vinegar, mirin and sake) were all made in kioke. Today, only 3,000 kioke are used in Japan to make soy sauce, and far fewer are used to ferment the country’s other seasoning staples. When these natural fermentation chambers are replaced with steel vats, you lose the authentic taste of traditional Japanese cuisine. And if they were to vanish completely, so would part of Japan’s cultural and culinary soul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Base seasoning is mostly mass produced. Hardly any real products left,” Yamamoto said. “When the ability to produce kioke barrels disappears … the main ingredients will also disappear. There is a need to preserve the real thing and pass it on to my children and grandchildren’s generations. That’s our mission.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p071xtkd","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor us, soy sauce is part of the landscape – it’s such an incredibly everyday thing for us. If you took it away, Washoku’s characteristic nuanced deliciousness could not be attained,” said Yasuyaki Mawatari, owner of Shodoshima’s Ryokan Mari inn and restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A 750-year-old staple","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoy sauce is one of the world’s oldest condiments. It originated in China roughly 2,200 years ago and is believed to have been introduced to Japan by a Buddhist monk in the mid-13th Century. Unlike Chinese \u003Cem\u003Ejiang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which is typically fermented in clay jars, Japanese shoyu has traditionally used wooden barrels, giving it a smoother, more aromatic taste. As a cheap and handy all-purpose seasoning, shoyu quickly became an indispensable staple in Japanese kitchens – and its role in shaping the country’s cuisine has been immense. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are many Japanese foods that would not exist today without shoyu; for example sushi, \u003Cem\u003Esukiyaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a meat and vegetable hot pot-style dish) and tempura,” said celebrity chef and restaurant owner \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fironchefmorimoto.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMasaharu Morimoto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “It’s an essential ingredient.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Yamamoto, since shoyu can either be used as a topping or to enhance a food’s natural flavour, many of Japan’s regional dishes trace their roots back to how shoyu – and the bacteria that flavours it – evolved across Japan. From Tokyo’s traditionally deep and intense shoyu came the briny \u003Cem\u003Eunagi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E eel and salty \u003Cem\u003Eyaki onigiri \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(grilled rice balls). Kagawa’s \u003Cem\u003Esanuki udon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E noodles are textured by Shodoshima’s creamy shoyu in its dashi broth. In Kyoto and Osaka, where the shoyu is lighter and thinner, there’s more of a focus on vegetables and fish. And in southern Japan, shoyu, like much of the local cuisine, is sweeter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Small beans","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShodoshima (fittingly: ‘small bean island’) has been a hub of soybean production for more than 400 years. In the early 1900s, there were some 400 soy sauce companies here. Today, 21 remain and, according to the Shodoshima Shoyu Association, more than 1,000 of the 3,000 kioke still used to make soy sauce in Japan are found on this 30,000-person island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up, Yamamoto’s family never ate at restaurants, and it was only when he left Shodoshima for the first time after high school that he first tasted shoyu that hadn’t been brewed for four years by his father. “I thought, ‘what on Earth is this salty soy sauce?’,” he said. When he graduated, Yamamoto’s father told him that after four generations, he couldn’t inherit the family business. Times had changed, the market had shifted and there was no more money.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDejected, Yamamoto got a job selling soy sauce in Osaka and Japan. “When I went to supermarkets, I saw rows of soy sauce made from artificial flavours,” he said. “I thought, ‘I don’t want to sell any of this’. So I quit that job and came home.” Two years later, Yamamoto’s father suddenly became ill, leaving the future of the family business to fall to Yamamoto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Patient process","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInstead of adapting steel vats during Japan’s post-war industrial push, Yamamoto’s father had used some of his kioke to produce the cheaper, salt-paste shoyu the government had mandated alongside his traditional soy sauce. The first thing Yamamoto did after taking over the business in 2003 was to dump out the modern stuff and double down on his family’s ancient four-year method.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe starts by placing steamed soybeans and roasted wheat into newer kioke filled with water and sea salt. This mixture, known as \u003Cem\u003Emoromi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, ages for 24 months as the microbes in the barrels, the bacteria in the storehouse and the enzymes in the moromi all work together as secret fermenting agents. In spring, the shed becomes infused with a fruity citrus aroma. In the summer, yeast causes the mash to vigorously bubble. And in autumn and winter, the spores fill the air with an intoxicating liquored fume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter two years, Yamamoto removes the mash from his newer kioke barrels and uses an antique press to squeeze out every drop of flavour. What trickles out is pure liquid umami. But instead of bottling it right away, Yamamoto pours this robust shoyu into an older kioke barrel to ferment and intensify for two more years. No two barrels taste exactly the same, and by the time Yamamoto eventually bottles them, larger brands will have cranked out 16 steel vats’ worth of the mass-produced stuff.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe soy sauce is not made by me, but by the bacteria. I only help out. My job is to maintain this ecosystem,” Yamamoto said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Microbe magic","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYamamoto may be the only brewer at his company, but he’s not working alone. The way he sees it, his role is to care for the millions of microbes that are hard at work. So twice a day, he clambers into his loft and gingerly walks across the narrow planks to smell the moromi, mix the mash when it’s active and “talk to the bacteria from deep inside my soul”. And according to Yamamoto, the bacteria talks back by bubbling louder. “I think it shows that they’re happy,” he said. “[When] the bacteria is happy and works hard, it creates fantastic soy sauce.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYamamoto speaks of his shoyu as though it were a loved one, and in many ways, it is the past and future of his family. In addition to passing down the knowledge of shoyu brewing, the most important thing Yamamoto’s ancestors did was to pass down the actual bacteria needed to brew it. Yamamoto’s century-old storehouse was built using bacteria-filled beams that have been in his family for 300 years. This, together with the family’s 150-year-old kioke, is how the Yamamotos have created and maintained their two distinct shoyu varieties over generations: the robust, creamy and intensely rich \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fyama-roku.net\u002Fproduct\u002F01-tsurubisio.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETsuru\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the lighter and more delicate \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fyama-roku.net\u002Fproduct\u002F02-kikubisio.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKikuza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Kioke custodian","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, there are more than 1,400 soy sauce companies in Japan, and Yamaroku is one of the last to only use kioke. While this distinction has helped Yamamoto revive the family business in a more craft brew-friendly era, it also means that his family’s fragile ecosystem faces an uncertain future. Because kioke can only last about 150 years, Yamamoto’s ancestors never had to make them. Now, many of his barrels are on the brink of becoming unusable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore World War Two, hundreds of companies across Japan built kioke for shoyu, sake, mirin and other seasonings. Today, there’s only one: Fujii Seiokesho. When Yamamoto contacted them in 2009, he discovered that they hadn’t received an order for a new kioke in 70 years, and had spent the past seven decades repairing the ageing barrels still used around Japan. What’s more, he learned the youngest cooper at the three-person company was 68 years old, had no successors and was retiring in 2020. So, while Yamamoto could buy his barrel, soon no-one would be available to fix it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERecognising that the future of his company and all authentically fermented Japanese foods depended on the continuation of this craft, Yamamoto and two carpenters travelled to Fujii Seiokesho’s workshop outside Osaka in 2012 to learn the ancient art for themselves. After three days of instruction and a year of practice, they made their first barrel in 2013.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Hidden treasure","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaking these mammoth 4,000-litre barrels requires a team effort. More than 40 planks of 100-year-old Yoshino cedar are rounded and laid vertically to form a cylinder. To lock the planks into place, Fujii Seiokesho’s craftsmen told Yamamoto not to use glue, but bamboo. After talking to a neighbour, Yamamoto learned that his grandfather had planted a bamboo grove decades earlier for exactly that reason, knowing that someone in the family would one day need to build more barrels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor each kioke, Yamamoto searches in the grove for just the right shoot, cuts it and shaves it down to make elastic strips that he slowly weaves into braided bamboo hoops. These cylindrical hoops are then hoisted atop the barrel and carefully hammered into place to prevent any liquid from seeping out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince 2013, Yamamoto and his colleagues have constructed 23 barrels, but he hasn’t kept most of them. As word of his quest to revive kioke craftsmanship spread, Yamamoto has started receiving orders from other fermented food producers across the country. “When these three people [at Fujii Seiokesho] retire, they won’t be making barrels anymore, which means I’ll be the only person left who can make them,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A secret worth sharing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYamamoto knows that if he doesn’t find a viable successor, the skill behind soy sauce’s secret ingredient will die with him. So every January, Yamamoto has hosted a 10-day kioke-making workshop at his family’s home and brewery where he teaches fellow craftsmen the essentials of kioke construction. Since 2014, more than 100 shoyu brewers, carpenters and other fermented food makers from all over Japan have attended, and more and more students are coming every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe group typically makes nine new barrels together in each workshop, and while Yamamoto keeps some of these kioke, he gives most to other companies. As he sees it, the only way authentic shoyu can survive is to build more kioke, reacquaint the world with how it’s supposed to taste and drive up demand. To do this, he’s proposed an ambitious goal to other brewers: to increase the Japanese market from 1% to 2% – a leap that would require the construction of 3,000 additional kioke.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Yamamoto is very respected among other soy sauce producers in Japan,” said Takahiro Hiramatsu, an aspiring shoyu brewer in Shodoshima. “He is a hero of soy sauce.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Royal blend","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt one of these January workshops several years ago, Yamamoto remembers that a man attended who worked for Kikkoman – the world’s largest soy sauce producer. The gentleman was especially keen on learning the basics of kioke repair, and said he was not sent by his employer. The man later shared what he learned from Yamamoto's workshop with his associates at the company’s factory in Noda, where it maintains several old kioke to supply authentic soy sauce to the Japanese emperor and imperial family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater, a few more employees from Kikkoman's Noda factory became interested in repairing kioke, and Yamamoto kindly invited them to his next barrel-making workshop. Ever since, Kikkoman employees have invited Yamamoto to come to their Noda factory several times to advise them on how to maintain the barrels for their rare, royal blend.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Future generations","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo date, none of the more than 100 craftsmen who have attended Yamamoto’s workshops have been able to master kioke construction. Like brewing authentic shoyu itself, it’s a slow and strenuous process. That’s what led so many brewers to give up long ago. And while Yamamoto will likely never be able to make enough kioke to save traditional soy sauce and Washoku cuisine in his lifetime, there are three main reasons why he presses on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith every new kioke that Yamamoto makes, he writes his name and the names of his three young children on an inside panel of the cedar wood before sealing it shut. They, in turn, leave their handprints on the underside of each barrel. Yamamoto’s daughter has started running into the family storehouse to ask if she can taste her father’s shoyu. His oldest son, who Yamamoto hopes will one day take over the family craft, now eagerly leads him into his great-grandfather’s bamboo grove to search for shoots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the time Yamamoto’s newest kioke are fully caked in the family’s centuries-old bacteria, he may be gone. By the time they finally split apart to reveal the family names written inside, his children and grandchildren may be, too. But Yamamoto hopes that whoever discovers them in the future realises something he learned long ago: “The reason I can consume this soy sauce today is because somebody I didn’t know hundreds of years ago made it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Text by Eliot Stein; video by Mari Shibata)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcustom-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECustom Made\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that introduces you to custodians of cultural traditions all around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret-28"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-02-26T18:47:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Is Japan losing its umami?","headlineShort":"How ‘real’ soy sauce should taste","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"34.4899027","longitude":"134.1840556","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Soy sauce is one of the most important ingredients in Japanese cooking, but chances are you've never tasted the real thing.","summaryShort":"The truth behind one of the world’s most popular ingredients","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:22:15.544624Z","entity":"article","guid":"37c3093d-b34d-4562-b512-853cf1c066f1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:44:57.982685Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b2a27220f5a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Long before Japanese food became so emblematic, with sushi and shabu shabu, ramen and yakitori prized the world over, there was another cuisine here that has almost been forgotten.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a crisp autumn morning in Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, Sachiko Hoshizawa was meticulously setting out bowls and plates. Immaculately styled in a cheery yellow apron, she ensured that the long tables in front of her had the right selection of crockery, chopsticks and mixing bowls. She then turned to prepare the ingredients, carefully placing pieces of salmon, kelp, potato, carrots and spring onions on the counter of the small kitchen. Finally, she surveyed the scene and stood back behind the counter, perfectly poised with a TV-ready smile on her face, ready for the eager queue of people to swarm into the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHoshizawa – a hugely popular TV cooking show host in Japan – was preparing for a highly anticipated cooking class and I was there to participate. While Japanese cuisine offers a wealth of gastronomic delights, with an endless variety of regional dishes, today she was cooking Ainu cuisine, the food of the indigenous people of Japan. That’s because, long before Japanese food became so emblematic, with sushi and shabu shabu, ramen and yakitori prized the world over, there was another cuisine here that has almost been forgotten.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We think kombu is the secret of long life. I eat it every day","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost of the world will not have heard of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan’s indigenous people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, let alone their food. The Ainu are the original inhabitants of Hokkaido, who have called this island and parts of the surrounding region their home for many thousands of years, living on and with the land. Unlike the Japanese, who practiced rice farming, the Ainu traditionally hunted, foraged and fished. Their food culture was rich and vibrant – and had a distinct and lasting impact on Japanese cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Without Japan’s indigenous people, you wouldn’t have that Japanese taste that’s so famous,” said Remi Ie, Director of Japan at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fslowfood-nippon.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food International\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “They created and fostered the food culture of Japan.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe’s referring to umami, the savoury “fifth taste” that is often associated with Japanese dishes. It’s found in soy, miso and other fermented foods that give the cuisine its unique flavour. But Japan’s umami in fact has its roots in Ainu culture, in the \u003Cem\u003Ekombu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of edible kelp) that grows in lush underwater forests around Hokkaido’s coastlines and has always been used in traditional Ainu cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Originally there was no kombu in Japanese cuisine,” said Hiroaki Kon, an Ainu chef and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkerapirka-sapporo.business.site\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKerapirka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Sapporo, one of the few Ainu restaurants in the world. “The Japanese adopted it from Ainu food and now it is used in everything.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten indigenous people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200503-the-indigenous-communities-that-predicted-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe indigenous communties that predicted Covid-19\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKombu is a main ingredient in \u003Cem\u003Edashi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (stock), a simple broth that forms one of the culinary cornerstones of Japanese cooking. It’s also used in a slew of other Japanese dishes, from \u003Cem\u003Ekombu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Etsukudani \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(kombu simmered in soy sauce and mirin) to \u003Cem\u003Ekombu kamaboko\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (kombu-wrapped fish cakes). Its umami flavour comes from an abundance of amino acids such as glutamic and aspartic acid, and its taste is almost synonymous with Japanese cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hokkaido kelp has very much influenced Japanese cuisine,” agrees food historian Takashi Morieda. “It [used to be] prohibited to kill animals more than 1,000 years ago [in Japan] due to the influence of Buddhism. That meant we didn’t have fat and oil, so we needed something else to make vegetables delicious. That’s why we use dashi; it brings the umami flavour.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Ainu did have fat and oil from the animals they hunted, but also used kombu as a savoury seasoning. They would harvest and dry the kombu, deep fry it and grind it into a powder to be sprinkled on deer meat; or mix the powder with water to form a paste or sauce. And by the 14th Century, they were trading kombu and other goods with the Japanese, thus introducing this umami flavour into Japanese food. Today more than 95% of Japan’s kombu comes from Hokkaido.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This trade shaped the food culture of Japan. Kelp is the umami we all talk about in the world as the food of Japan,” said Ie.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHoshizawa agrees, telling me: “We think kombu is the secret of long life. I eat it every day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHoshizawa is not Ainu but is from Hokkaido and has a deep interest in Ainu food. Her cooking class was part of Slow Food’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002Four-network\u002Findigenous\u002Fabout-us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndigenous Terra Madre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which celebrates and showcases indigenous food cultures around the world, and whose Asia and Pan-Pacific edition in October 2019 was held in Hokkaido and hosted by the Ainu community. Recent decades have seen some significant changes for these once marginalised people, culminating in April 2019 when they were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2019\u002F02\u002F25\u002Freference\u002Fjapans-ainu-recognition-bill-mean-hokkaidos-indigenous-people\u002F#.XrKQm5MzY6g\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elegally recognised as an indigenous group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the Japanese government – a major milestone in a country known for its homogeneity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith much of their culture eradicated after the Japanese government formally colonised Hokkaido in the late 1800s and banned their traditional hunting and fishing, there is now a movement to showcase Ainu cuisine and culture to outsiders, as well as a resurgence of interest in their traditions and ingredients. Our cooking class group eagerly followed Hoshizawa’s precise instructions to make salmon\u003Cem\u003E ohau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (soup) and \u003Cem\u003Einakibi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (millet) dumplings, boiling the salmon pieces, rolling the starchy dumplings in ground walnuts and stirring a kelp sauce. It was a fascinating insight into a little-known culinary culture, but beyond these dishes, there is a wealth of other ingredients and techniques that make up Ainu cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Without Japan’s indigenous people, you wouldn’t have that Japanese taste that’s so famous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Hokkiado is today best known for fresh seafood (especially urchin and roe) and dairy products, the Ainu cultivated millet, wheat and buckwheat and ate bear, deer and salmon, among other animals and fish. They foraged wild plants, berries and grasses, from acorns to the Alpine leek. And while Japan is known for its love of sushi and sashimi, the Ainu rarely eat raw fish or flesh – it is usually boiled into soup or roasted, with the fish skin and animal hides traditionally used for clothes. Traditional seasoning would be plain – usually salt, kombu or animal fat – with no use of soy sauce or other soy products.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs animists who lived in harmony with the land, the Ainu’s respect for nature formed the foundation of their cuisine's simple flavours. “Ainu people only eat what is around them,” said Kon. “They don’t pick everything but think about the next year and the year after. They would always leave some part of the plant or tree so it could continue to grow.” They worship many animals as deities and honour their spirits through rituals and ceremonies, their diet always sustainable with a strong respect for resources and the environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of the wild plants used in Ainu cuisine have medicinal properties, which are becoming increasingly popular and trendy in Japan and throughout Asia. For example, the characteristically bitter flavours of many varieties of \u003Cem\u003Esansai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (wild mountain plants), which are eaten in salads, soups or as tempura, are purported to be high in vitamins and minerals as well as polyphenols, which contain antioxidant properties; while the \u003Cem\u003Eshikerebe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E berry of the Amur cork tree is one of the 50 fundamental herbs used in Traditional Chinese Medicine, used to clear heat and eliminate toxicity from the body. The Ainu use shikerebe as a general painkiller or to cure stomach ache, viewing it as a “strong” medicine since the seeds will germinate in unfertile ground, even after many years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Ainu food is today mostly found within private homes or at traditional ceremonies, some Ainu ingredients and techniques have been incorporated into Hokkaido cuisine (and vice versa) – although many visitors to the region may not realise their origins. “Under Japanese rule, additional seasonings like miso and soy crept into what was considered a fairly bland cuisine, enabling certain dishes to maintain popularity to this day,” said Jane Lawson, food and travel writer and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fzenbutours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZenbu Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noting that Ainu-originated dishes existing within the boundaries of the everyday Hokkaido diet include \u003Cem\u003Esanpeijiru\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a salty soup made with salmon scraps; \u003Cem\u003Eishikari-nabe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a salmon hotpot with potatoes, cabbage and miso; and \u003Cem\u003Esaketoba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, dried jerky-like salmon sticks that are a popular snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs Ainu culture becomes increasingly recognised, their food and its health benefits are getting the attention of foodies, chefs and restaurants, both in Hokkaido and beyond. “Recent interest in reviving traditional Ainu culture has seen some restaurants serving the traditional cuisine – albeit an enhanced version to make items more palatable for modern tastes,” Lawson explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKon opened Kerapirka restaurant in the Hokkaido capital in May 2019 with the goal of promoting his beloved cuisine. While he serves up traditional Ainu dishes, he also puts twists on indigenous ingredients to entice new customers, such as cooked salmon belly with a \u003Cem\u003Ekitopiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Alpine leek)-infused salt; or thin slices of lightly cured deer meat, a prosciutto-style technique honed from his years as a chef in an Italian restaurant in Osaka. His methods seem to be working: Kon says that half his customers are non-Ainu, with an increasing number of international travellers coming (pre-pandemic) to try Ainu cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Kelp is the umami we all talk about in the world as the food of Japan","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther afield, Chef Shinobu Namae, executive chef at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leffervescence.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL’Effervescence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a two-Michelin star French-Japanese restaurant in Tokyo, has also been championing the revival of Ainu culture by including traditional Ainu foods and techniques on his menu. His aim: “to do my best to contribute to getting more attention to an indigenous group in Japan”. He replicates their unique kombu powder, for instance – but rather using it to flavour meat, “we sprinkle it on vegetables and salads; it concentrates the flavour,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, back at Hoshizawa’s cooking class, the excited buzz in the room finally started to subside and the dishes were ready to sample. The results were simple but delicious: the heaviness of the millet dumplings was offset by the slightly sweet kombu sauce, while each sip of soup sang with the individual flavours of salmon, potato, carrot and kelp. It was all delectable, but as I was eating, I realised that it was about much more than food. I was tasting a slice of an almost-lost indigenous wisdom that will, hopefully, now start to get the attention it deserves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-11T20:51:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Japan’s unknown indigenous cuisine","headlineShort":"Where Japan's umami comes from","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long before Japanese food became so emblematic, with sushi and shabu shabu, ramen and yakitori prized the world over, there was another cuisine here that has almost been forgotten.","summaryShort":"Most of the world will not have heard of the Ainu, let alone their food","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:53:25.331258Z","entity":"article","guid":"0c027842-9790-42e2-8c44-8f98d6bd4221","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:54.064213Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","_id":"624ec67e1f4b7b549705df95","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For some 700 years, the Geiyo Islands were dominated by pirates – a key era in Japan's history that the country is developing new appreciation for today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpeeding along at 65m above sea level with an exhilarating view of islands in all directions and cargo ships in the churning waters below, I felt like I was parasailing. In fact, I was driving on the world's longest suspension structure, the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 4km in length, the bridge is one of eight long-span bridges on the 60km Nishi-Seto Expressway, known as the Shimanami Kaido, which means Island Wave Sea Road. The only route through the Geiyo Archipelago – a group of mountainous islands clustered at the heart of Japan's main waterway, the Seto Inland Sea – the expressway connects the islands to Onomichi City on Honshu Island in the north and Imabari City on Shikoku Island in the south.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the Shimanami Kaido was completed in 1999, the Geiyo Islands were a remote region, accessible only by boat. Around the islands are the most treacherous straits in the country. The Seto Inland Sea is where the Pacific Ocean flows through Japan; shifts in the tide create complicated underwater currents and fast whirlpools due to the islands' topography.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A major road winds through mountainous terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Shimanami Kaido stops along busy fishing ports, valleys terraced with farming villages and lemon and mikan tangerine orchards – and even culinary gems like the sushi restaurant Akakichi, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fguide.michelin.com\u002Fus\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Ftravel\u002Feight-remote-destinations-wanderlust\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Michelin Guide highlights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as one of the most remote stars in its constellation of restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe route is also a journey into Japan's little-known seafaring past. From the 9th Century to the end of the 16th Century, the Geiyo Islands were home to pirates (\u003Cem\u003Ekaizoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E). These were seafaring clans who, by virtue of their skill at navigating dangerous waters, dominated the sea lanes of the Seto Inland Sea – and terrorised the coasts of East Asia, raiding, trading and fighting battles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, a new appreciation of the pirates has been popularised in Japan, in part thanks to historian and television presenter Junko Yamada. Her book Kaizoku Ga Tsukutta Nihonshi (Japan's History Made by Pirates), published in 2017, describes the pirates as \"heroes of the sea\" because of the important part they played in major turning points of the country's island-nation history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The most recorded information we have is about the Murakami Kaizoku,\" said Ken Tanaka, curator at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.city.imabari.ehime.jp\u002Fmuseum\u002Fsuigun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMurakami Kaizoku Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Oshima Island, an archaeologist by training and one of Japan's foremost experts on the pirates. \"They were the largest group of pirates, three branches of the Murakami family who emerged sometime in the 14th Century.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In recent years, a new appreciation of the pirates has been popularised in Japan","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis was Japan's Muromachi era (1336-1573), when the former political order of central control under the shogun, Japan's military leader, had broken down. From 1467-1615, samurai warlords across the country divided Japan into independent fiefdoms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Together with the fishermen they recruited from the islands, [the Murakami Kaizoku] effectively ruled the Seto Inland Sea as their maritime fiefdom,\" said Tanaka. \"While many of the pirates raided ships and pillaged villages, the Murakami were different. They were sea lords and collected tolls from ships traveling across the Seto Inland Sea and also fees to ensure safe passage by providing pilotage and security by acting as escorts. They did fight sea battles, but as mercenaries and to protect their territory.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile territorial battles also were taking place on Japan's mainland islands, the Murakami, Tanaka added \"played a key role during the era by creating order on the Seto Inland Sea, thus facilitating trade, diplomacy and cultural exchanges\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was only once the Tokugawa Shogunate disbanded the Murakami, after reunifying Japan in 1615, that it was able to famously close Japan's sea borders and implement its policy of \u003Cem\u003Esakoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (national seclusion). That policy endured until 1853, when Commodore Perry of the US Navy entered Tokyo Bay with his fleet of \"Black Ships\" and forced the country to again engage with the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Armor and artifacts on display behind a glass case","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Murakami Kaizoku Museum is also a visitor centre for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan.travel\u002Fjapan-heritage\u002Fpopular\u002F030f3fe8-6696-4cad-9b7f-7f50312583af\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"Policemen Pirates of the Setonaikai Sea\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the thematic title of a Japan Heritage programme that traces 42 heritage sites across the islands related to the Murakami and their time. According to Tanaka, it is the most representative example of Japan's seafaring history in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan.travel\u002Fjapan-heritage\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E programme, which recognises cultural properties that tell narratives of the country's past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I found over the next two days of driving the Shimanami Kaido as a pathway to exploring a number of the sites via the islands' backroads, the Geiyo Islands are a microcosm of an extraordinary age. In addition to ruins of Murakami forts – one located on top of a mountain, a lookout tower from which the Murakami surveyed the sea lanes – I visited the largest collection of historical samurai armoury in Japan at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Foomishimagu.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOyamazumi Shrine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is dedicated to the Shinto gods who protect sailors and warriors, and a Chinese-influenced pagoda at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.genets.co.jp\u002Fu1\u002FKOJOJI\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKojoji Temple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, considered one of the finest examples of Muromachi architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA paradise with too many palm trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoyenne Island: The world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the political fragmentation of the Murakami era, it was a time of commercial and cultural vitality. Japan's fast-growing economy was propelled by maritime trade through the Seto Inland Sea, which included trade with Ming dynasty China and with new arrivals – Dutch traders, Portuguese explorers and Spanish missionaries – who introduced new art forms, guns and Christianity to Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt later took 20th-Century bridge technology to achieve what the pirates once did through their boats and seafaring skill: weave the Geiyo Archipelago together, but this time, through steel, concrete, and high-tension wire. I joined other motorists and cyclists who had stopped at Tatara Shimanami Park Roadside Station to admire Tatara Bridge, the world's longest cable-stayed bridge when it was built (it now ranks eighth). Its slim towers and delicate cable fans – one set narrower than the other – gave the impression of a ghostly reflection of a mighty two-masted schooner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of a bridge with two tall posts","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENearly every aspect of the bridges' construction were world firsts, said Toshio Kutsukake, director of the Expressway Division of Japan's Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism. Chief among these was the development of concrete and steel composite materials. \"Tricky materials to work with,\" he said, \"because they affect the strength of the bridge.\" But they were critical to achieving the long bridge spans while minimising the abutments to protect the environment. The Geiyo Islands are located in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.env.go.jp\u002Fen\u002Fnature\u002Fnps\u002Fpark\u002Fsetonaikai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESetonaikai National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Japan's first national park created in 1934, and there was a need to make the bridges blend into the seascape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I travelled the Shimanami Kaido, it was not at all congested, and with interchanges on each island, the route seemed made for exploring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn its way, it was. Unlike two other roadways built as commercial routes across the Seto Inland Sea, the Shimanami Kaido was built to be a road for daily use, said Kutsukake. Construction began in 1975 after almost a century of lobbying by the islanders for a convenient and safer way to get to shops, schools and hospitals. In 1955, a tragic ferry accident resulted in the loss of hundreds of lives, creating additional pressure for the route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are separate dedicated lanes for pedestrians, bicycles and mopeds. In one of the anchorage towers of the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, there is even a lift that descends to tiny Uma Island (population 13).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As I travelled the Shimanami Kaido, it was not at all congested, and with interchanges on each island, the route seemed made for exploring","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECyclists were the first to discover the Shimanami Kaido, making the challenging ramps up to the bridges, fast straightaways across them and winding roads in between them into one of the world's top cycling destinations. In more recent years, a growing number of new residents, attracted to the islands' slow way of life combined with the convenience of the road, have been working to make the islands themselves the destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong them is Arashi Murakami, who in 2020 opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwakka.site\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWakka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a boutique hotel conveniently located midway along the route on Omishima Island, where I stopped for the night. Over a delicious fish stew, I learned that Murakami is a descendant of the pirates and a modern-day \"privateer\" – what we call an entrepreneur nowadays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man smiles in front of a bridge over water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOriginally from Tokyo, his grandfather was one of the diaspora of Murakami who spread throughout Japan over the centuries and often told him stories about the pirates\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EArashi told me that he first came to the islands as a cyclist and later moved his family to the island because, he said, \"I am proud of my heritage and wanted to provide the kind of amenities I wished were available when I travelled the road.\" In addition to the hotel and a cafe, he has added a water taxi service to offshore islands and arranges fishing excursions with local fishermen to encourage more tourists to visit the islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERyu Morimoto, a founding member of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ohmishimawine.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOmishima Minna no Winery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also located on Omishima Island, returned to the islands after living in the UK for 20 years. She recalls how prior to the construction of the Shimanami Kaido, locals dreamed of an easily accessible bridge to connect the islands. She never expected it to become a reality. Now that it has, \"life is much more convenient,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Each island has its own unique characteristics,\" she said. But, she continued, they share a history rooted in their seafaring past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The legacy of the Murakami pirates connects us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-10T10:08:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Japan's little-known seafaring past","headlineShort":"Japan's little-known seafaring past","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.256165","longitude":"132.9973339","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For some 700 years, the Geiyo Islands were dominated by pirates – a key era in Japan's history that the country is developing new appreciation for today.","summaryShort":"Pirates ruled some of its islands for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-09T21:09:33.631352Z","entity":"article","guid":"58b73364-387b-4838-9194-648b6b852a68","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-09T21:20:54.901863Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce","_id":"624ec6a91f4b7b6854032474","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller"],"bodyIntro":"Soy sauce is ubiquitous throughout Japan and the world. But few know about the ancient origins of the holy grail of Japanese cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarefully climbing the steep stairs, I followed Tsunenori Kano into the loft of the fermentation room of his family's 180-year-old soy sauce brewery, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.kadocho.co.jp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKadocho\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The dark space was eerily silent except for the creaking of my steps on the old wooden boards laid between the vats of soy sauce. The soy sauce was now dormant, it being late winter, but it still filled the air with a savoury aroma. Around me, a thick, fungus-laden crust covered the ceiling, hung from the beams and grew up the walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"That is the bacteria and yeasts that are as old as the building,\" said Kano, the seventh-generation brewer, \"they provide the authentic taste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was in Yuasa, a quiet port tucked into a bay on the western coast of the Kishu Peninsula in Wakayama Prefecture, on a quest to learn about the ancient origins of the holy grail of Japanese cuisine: soy sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoy sauce is arguably the most important seasoning in Japanese cooking. Its well-balanced, salty-sweet taste and deep layer of umami richness make nearly all foods taste more delicious and satisfying. Its uses range from a dab on sushi to a splash into noodle soups and stir-fries, as well as the featured flavour of glazed dishes like teriyaki.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2017, Japan's Agency for Cultural Affairs designated Yuasa a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkansai-japan-heritage.com\u002Fen\u002Fyuasa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for being the birthplace of Japanese soy sauce, which is said to have been first made here in the late 13th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw576m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tub of Kinzanji miso","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsolistparagraph\"\u003EThe now-beloved condiment came about soon after a Japanese Buddhist monk named Shinchi Kakushin returned from a trip to China and became the abbot at Kokoku-ji Temple near Yuasa. He brought with him a recipe for making Kinzanji miso, a uniquely chunky type of miso made from whole soybeans, various other grains (such as barley and rice) and vegetables. Yuasa's townsfolk soon discovered that the small amounts of liquid that pooled in tubs of fermenting Kinzanji miso, as its ingredients were pressed down with heavy stones, was in itself delicious. This by-product, called \u003Cem\u003Etamari\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a generic word that means \"to accumulate\") became the basis for soy sauce as we know it today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Japan losing its umami?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's unknown indigenous cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's little-known seafaring past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin years, Yuasa was transformed from being a waystation on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fstoryworks\u002Ftravel\u002Fwakayama-prefecture\u002Fkumano-kodo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKumano Kodo pilgrimage route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that leads to the renowned temples and shrines on nearby Mt Koya into Japan's most important soy sauce brewing centre. At its peak, the tiny town of just 1,000 or so houses was crowded with more than 90 soy sauce breweries, almost one soy sauce shop for every 10 homes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the town's historical district is protected by Japanese law. It is an extensive area encompassing 323 houses and other \u003Cem\u003Ehongawara-buki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional buildings) recognised for their immense cultural value. Many of them still have their traditional lattice windows and curved tile roofs, architectural features that were symbols to passers-by of the owners' prosperity. They include five soy sauce shops and six Kinzanji miso makers that are still active. Visiting them tells the remarkable story of the intertwined fortunes of Kinzanji miso and soy sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe distinctive flavour of Yuasa soy sauce reflects its ancient origins from Kinzanji miso. Unlike other types of miso, which are pastes used as seasonings, Kinzanji miso is an elegant tasting, nourishing dish. It's a culinary relic of Song Dynasty cuisine – considered one of the world’s great developments in cooking when exquisite new tastes were created from ordinary ingredients – and has remained a popular local delicacy over the centuries, enjoyed as a snack, side dish or even light meal when added to a bowl of rice or mixed into \u003Cem\u003Echagayu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a porridge made from rice, water and tea). It was served at every meal I had while in Yuasa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw574y"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kadocho exterior with Tsunenori Kano, 7th generation brewer","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs its tamari byproduct was so tasty, locals wanted a way to produce larger amounts of it. They efficiently adapted the Kinzanji miso-making process to create soy sauce, a thinner, yet similar tasting, form of the tamari.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEstablished in 1841, Kadocho is one of the oldest of Yuasa's remaining soy sauce brewers; the soy sauce they produce is as close to the original type as you are likely to find anywhere in Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we descended from the loft, Kano walked me through the brewery and explained how the soy-sauce making process was adapted from that of Kinzanji miso.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPointing out ancient wooden tools and iron equipment, he said that to make soy sauce, just two, rather than a variety, of grains, are used – steamed soybeans and toasted wheat – which are mashed rather than left whole (as is the case for Kinzanji miso) to better extract their flavour and umami.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey're then mixed with \u003Cem\u003Ekoji kin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (green \u003Cem\u003EAspergillus oryzae \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emould spores), as is done for Kinzanji miso, and left for three days in an enclosed room, called a \u003Cem\u003Emuro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where the temperature is carefully controlled. There, the grains germinate, their starches converting into sugars, enabling fermentation. This mash is next put into wooden barrels with copious amounts of fresh water and salt – rather than the watery vegetables used for Kinzanji miso – and the brew is fermented for at least 1.5 years to acquire the same kind of mellow, complex flavour that Kinzanji miso has.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA powerful-looking man, Kano said that much of the work is done by hand. This includes regularly mixing the mash in his 34 large barrels with long wooden paddles and pressing the soy sauce from the mash when it is ready. Last, Kano slowly heats the soy sauce in an iron cauldron for half a day to stop its fermentation, using pine wood for the fire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw573z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man stirring huge vats of soy sauce","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnly about 1% of the soy sauce produced in Japan by some 1,200 companies is still made in the traditional way using wooden barrels, according to Keiko Kuroshima, a licensed soy sauce inspector and evaluator. One of Japan's three self-styled soy sauce sommeliers, she is the author of the definitive guide to soy sauce \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.genkosha.co.jp\u002Fgmook\u002F?p=7902\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShoyu Hon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Soy Sauce Book), published in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Other soy sauce is mass-produced in stainless steel tanks with the aim to create a consistent taste in as short a period of time as possible, often using artificial means to accelerate fermentation,\" she said. \"The wooden barrels help create a greater diversity of flavour because of the micro-organisms that live in them. They also better reflect the skills of the brewer, their being more engaged in the process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKadocho's soy sauce, whose flavour is characteristic of soy sauces made in Yuasa, has a thick body and powerfully rich taste, yet is pleasantly aromatic and mellow, like a well-aged cognac. Its flavour partly reflects Kano's use of a higher ratio of protein-rich soybeans to wheat than the industry standard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The competition is so intense that it is not only putting the traditional brewers out of business but also mass producers in recent years","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.kishu-shokusai.com\u002F?pid=4601480\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMost brewers, even traditional ones, use a 50:50 ratio of soybeans to wheat, which produces a thinner, lighter-tasting soy sauce. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.kishu-shokusai.com\u002F?pid=4601480\"\u003EKubota Soy Sauce Brewery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another old Yuasa brewer, makes two kinds of soy sauce. One, I was surprised to learn, is made with as much as 80% soybeans and only 20% wheat. The other one, matriarch Fumiyo Kubota told me, is their \"light\" soy sauce. It is made with 70% soybeans and 30% wheat. When I stopped by, she was busy preparing \u003Cem\u003Ekoji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – the mixture of koji kin and soybeans and wheat – in preparation for a new batch of soy sauce that will brew for the next 1.5 to two years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe number of Yuasa's soy sauce brewers has dramatically declined over the last century. The main factor is competition from mass producers, \"who compete primarily on price given the standardised quality of their soy sauce,\" according to Kuroshima. Traditionally made soy sauce is roughly two to three times more expensive than mass-produced soy sauce. \"The competition is so intense that it is not only putting the traditional brewers out of business but also mass producers in recent years,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bw572r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tamari pooling in tubs of fermenting Kinzanaji miso","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marushinhonke.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOne man who is bucking this trend is Toshio Shinko, who is working to re-establish Yuasa's position as a leading maker of soy sauce. He is the fifth-generation head of Kinzanji miso maker \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marushinhonke.com\"\u003EMarushinhonke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a business started by his great-great-grandmother in 1881. In 2002, Shinko created \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yuasasyouyu.co.jp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYuasa Soy Sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located in a slick new building on a hill overlooking the town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis aim, he said, \"is to make the best soy sauce in the world\" by combining the best possible ingredients with old techniques, such as using wooden barrels, along with new production methods. His featured soy sauce, called Kuyo Murasaki, includes a special ingredient: some of the rare tamari by-product from his family's Kinzanji miso. Shinko has also created a line of specialty products, including organic and halal soy sauce, to ensure the condiment's place at the table for years to come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYuasa's official recognition as the birthplace of soy sauce has revitalised the community, promising more variations and uses of soy sauce. To celebrate this exciting future, before I left Yuasa Soy Sauce, I stopped by its cafe and treated myself to a cone of its deliciously rich soy-sauce ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-24T13:50:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Japan's humble birthplace of soy sauce","headlineShort":"The humble birthplace of soy sauce","image":["p0bw576p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.0294","longitude":"135.1905","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bw576p"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Soy sauce is ubiquitous throughout Japan and the world. But few know about the ancient origins of the holy grail of Japanese cuisine.","summaryShort":"Few know about the ancient origins of the holy grail of Japanese cuisine","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-23T13:51:29.598845Z","entity":"article","guid":"e44d5279-82b6-4ac7-a13e-4163086c58a4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:30:49.197847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjapan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_japan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b4f731d3f28","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBracing against the cold air at an altitude of 2,650m, I made my way down a foggy, narrow mountain road in the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes. Its switchbacks were slick with moisture from the mist, vegetation slowly creeping up the cracks in the pavement. A large, looming silhouette emerged from the fog – a lone cow wandering along the road in search of better pasture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther than roaming livestock and the occasional local, there was almost no traffic. It was hard to believe I'd only just left Cuenca, one of Ecuador's most vibrant cities, a mere 30km behind. Having rented a motorcycle, I wanted to explore the more far-off routes of the Andes heading east, where there are little tourist crowds – and plenty of local culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoon, I found myself on the Via San Bartolome, a quiet, remote road with solitude and views unspoiled by human activity. With its villages few and far between, Via San Bartolome slowly unfurls across the eastern slopes of the Andes for 80km, merging with a network of other local roads leading down into the Amazon plains. Gone are Cuenca's busy streets and trendy cafes, replaced by sparse, tiny indigenous settlements, animal pastures and a mountain landscape weighed down by heavy clouds and undisturbed silence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMusical traditions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I entered the San Bartolome parish, home to a little more than 4,000 inhabitants, I started noticing something odd on the sides of the road. Here and there, a small workshop appeared, bearing a sign of a guitar. Sometimes, it was someone's house with a guitar frame hung outside; sometimes, a bigger workshop with instruments lined up on the porch or displayed on tables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust a few more miles up the road, a makeshift wooden sign declared this was the \"Ruta de las Guitarras\" – the Guitar Route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 200 years, the tradition of guitar-making has been strong in this region. Locals craft the instruments from the area's cedar, spruce and cherry trees, as well as from more exotic materials like armadillo shells. Luthiers along the Guitar Road are known for crafting guitars so exquisite that their clients include musicians across South America, the Caribbean and North America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIntrigued, I stopped by one of the guitar workshops: a typical tin-roofed Andean house with wooden walls, but with a guitar displayed above the entrance. It belonged to Jose Homero Uyaguari, one of San Bartolome's most renowned guitar makers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EParking my rental motorcycle on the side of the road, I tentatively asked if I could visit the workshop. While curious, I didn't want to intrude: the Guitar Route is far from a touristy place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Uyaguari nodded and ushered me inside. \"Come, come,\" he said, opening the doors to the workshop. \"Would you like to see the guitars?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, the walls were lined with finished guitars, charangos (small, five-stringed instruments loved by indigenous Andean musicians), ukuleles and cuatros (four-stringed guitars popular in Venezuela). The tables were covered in instruments in various states of finish, sawdust, and cow bone fragments and colourful ornaments used as adornments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every guitar and charango are unique,\" Uyaguari explained, holding up a small charango. \"We use local cherry wood, walnut and cedar trees most of the time, but some of the guitars are made from imported pine. Most of our walnut comes from right here, from our neighbours, and sometimes, we get things like armadillo shells from the rainforest – it's good for making smaller instruments, and people love the unusual finish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGenerations of guitar makers\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs he showed me around the workshop, Uyaguari told me he learned the art of guitar making from his father – who, in turn, learned from his. \"As a child, I remember some of the guitar masters were 70, 80 years old, and they'd tell us they learned from their fathers, too. It's a tradition passed down from father to son,\" he said. Although there are some women guitar makers in San Bartolome, for the most part, it is the dominion of men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I began learning to make guitars when I was 13 years old. Now, it's my trade, and I'm hoping to pass it down to my sons. Three of them already make guitars and work together with me,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of Uyaguari's instruments are made by hand. First, the wood is sent to be sawed. Next, the luthier works with chisels, saws and sandpaper to craft the frame and the neck of the guitar, decorating the sound hole with tiny wood fragments coloured by hand. Some of the ornaments are made of bovine bones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom sanding and prepping the wood to a complete finish, it takes Uyaguari about two weeks to make one guitar. His cheaper instruments cost around $70 to $200 (£50 to £150), whereas a more exquisite guitar made from expensive wood may cost $2,000 (£1,500) and upwards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch is the reputation of San Bartolome's guitar makers that these instruments are being sought after by musicians in Europe, Colombia, Cuba and Puerto Rico. Uyaguari fondly remembers a rosewood and pine guitar he made for Enrique Bunbury, the lead singer of Spanish rock band Héroes del Silencio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA fragile trade\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its past successes, after peaking around 2005-2010, the guitar-making trade in San Bartolome has been slowly dwindling. Due to an influx of imported guitars from China, locals are opting for cheaper instruments. Only 10 local families now make guitars full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Artisanal guitar making is now valued less and less. Younger people just want cheap guitars, and they ask us to make guitars for $15 or $20 (£10 or £15) – the price of the Chinese ones. We can't compete with that, as this wouldn't even cover the costs of the wood, let alone the labour,\" said Uyaguari.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust 10 years ago, he and his sons would make 30 or 40 guitars a month; they'd all quickly sell out, with no instruments left at the shop, he said. Now, they sell 10 to 15 guitars a month. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, many guitar makers in San Bartolome have to supplement their income with farming, making furniture or moving to the cities in search of jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some of the workshops have been closed down or abandoned. I don't plan to stop, however – I'll take my trade to my grave,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a potential new revenue stream for artisans like him, too. \"Right now, our guitars are mostly bought either by travellers or professional musicians who value what we do,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThanking the luthier for his time, I jumped back on the bike and followed the Guitar Route eastward. Soon, the narrow mountain road dived down, turning and twisting in generous bends, sparse Andean grasses now replaced by the lush emerald green of the Amazon rainforest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe temperature and humidity rose as the ribbon of road snaked down the slopes of the Andes, revealing the slow-moving waters of the Upano River and the endless green expanse below. Small farms and ramshackle houses gave way to fresh fruit stands and bare-bellied kids running around, the heavy clouds now broken apart by sunshine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the land changed, the cold Andean villages and the guitar makers of San Bartolome began to feel like a distant, dreamlike memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-24T10:53:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Guitar Route of the Andes","headlineShort":"The Andes bucket list road trip","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.0099483","longitude":"-78.8185256","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","summaryShort":"The Guitar Route is far from a touristy place","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T22:33:19.779822Z","entity":"article","guid":"f461faa1-163a-4cb1-8a4a-56fa4fa9d5c3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T00:56:52.578136Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","_id":"624ec6781f4b7b518e52f011","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s early morning in Hong Kong. As the roar of traffic and rush of the commute begin, the city moves to its usual pulsing rhythm. But in the heart of one of the most hectic urban jungles on Earth is an unlikely garden of calm and healing – a little oasis where the pace is decidedly slower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated in Hong Kong Park, a lush green space in the centre of the city, is a dedicated tai chi garden. Designed with a courtyard for practicing, and decorated with bonsai trees, it has a serene quality that comes as a pleasant surprise in an area otherwise dominated by skyscrapers and the rush of city life. The garden is used frequently, if not daily, as locals gather in parks like this across the city, mostly in the morning, to practice the centuries-old martial art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s here under the early morning light that a group of tai chi students, led by their teacher, Master Chow, are using the garden as their classroom. They run through what’s known in tai chi as a “form” – a sequence of fluid moves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo an observer, the movements appear effortless. The students glide and flow seamlessly from one move to the next, exuding a calmness that’s far removed from the bustling streets nearby. Passers-by stop and watch, momentarily soothed by the movements that, although gentle, cut a powerful presence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People think that tai chi is just soft. But it’s all things – gentle, explosive, delicate, calm and full of wisdom,” said Chow. “There are 1,000 words to define it, but there are no words to fully describe it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETai chi is a type of ancient Chinese martial art that is widely believed to have originated more than 400 years ago during the Ming dynasty. Chen Wangting (1600-1680), a local military commander from the Chenjiagou village in Henan Province, has historically been recognised as the first person to create and practice tai chi. After retiring from the army, Wangting created tai chi as a fighting art to protect his family against thieves and bandits. He integrated the skills of different martial art styles with elements of the Taoist yin-yang philosophy – the idea that everything consists of two opposing forces that harmonise with each other to create a whole – as well as theories drawn from Traditional Chinese Medicine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, tai chi is mainly practiced as a low-to moderate-intensity exercise combined with meditation, body awareness, imagery and controlled breathing. Its main objective is to achieve longevity through mind and body conditioning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tai chi maintains cardiorespiratory function, muscular fitness and joint flexibility","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient practice is immensely popular throughout China, but it is particularly beloved in Hong Kong for its ability to relieve stress and improve health. With famously small living spaces in Hong Kong, going to the city’s parks or tai chi gardens is a good way to be out in the open while getting some exercise. Hong Kong also has a rapidly ageing population – about one third of its population will be aged 65 or above by 2038 – and the city’s elderly citizens are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.hk\u002Fen\u002Fresidents\u002Fculture\u002Frecreation\u002Factivities\u002Felderlyact.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eencouraged by the government\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to attend classes in the morning, which are often followed by tea and dim sum with their teacher and classmates. Not only do tai chi classes promote healthy movement, but they provide the elderly with a social community and combat isolation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years. Hong Kong has the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnam.edu\u002Fpeople-in-hong-kong-have-the-longest-life-expectancy-in-the-world-some-possible-explanations\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehighest life expectancy in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Women in the city live, on average, to 87.6 years of age and men to 81.9, beating such places as Japan and Italy, which are renowned for their longevity. “Prior \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-tai-chi-life\u002Ftai-chi-tied-to-longer-life-idUSBRE96H0PW20130718\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has indicated that this longevity increase is associated with the more active lifestyle of the elderly today,” said Aileen Chan, professor at The Chinese University of Hong Kong, whose research expertise is tai chi. “Tai chi maintains cardiorespiratory function, muscular fitness and joint flexibility. To promote a longer life, it is recommended to practice tai chi regularly for at least 30 minutes a day and at least five times a week, preferably every day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChow is the founder of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taichielite.com\u002Feng\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChen Style Tai Chi Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Hong Kong where he has taught more than 3,000 local and international students over a period of 19 years. Born into a martial arts family, Chow was inspired by his father, a kung fu master, who he describes as a humble man with great power and strength but who never showed off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When I was 16 years old, I knew the power of tai chi from books and I was amazed by its philosophy,” said Chow. “So, I decided to take classes, and this is how I started my tai chi journey.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChow was fortunate to learn the Chen-style of tai chi – the original form of tai chi – at its birthplace in Henan province, in mainland China."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"(There are four other traditional styles: Yang, Wu, Wu Hao and Sun; each have different movements and can look very different from one another.) After a few years of observation and training, the Chen family accepted him to be an inheritor, meaning that he could officially teach as a master of Chen-style in Hong Kong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Mentally, it has taught me how to think and how to control my emotions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow enjoys tai chi for both its physical and mental benefits. “Mentally, tai chi is an ancient Chinese method which is a natural and unique way to help relieve stress and soothe our soul,” he said. “Physically, it helps build joint movement in the knees and back, improves balance and fall prevention, adds muscle strength and flexibility and training coordination.” That’s because the movements are usually circular and never forced, the muscles are relaxed rather than tensed, the joints are not fully extended or bent, and connective tissues are not stretched. Chow says he has experienced the health benefits himself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I was a child, I always used to have a fever and coughing,” he said. “But as I grew up and started to practice tai chi, year by year, my health changed, and it has made me very strong now. Mentally, also, it has taught me how to think and how to control my emotions.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow firmly believes that tai chi can be self-healing. “It can help people a lot, especially in a busy city like Hong Kong,” he said. “It can bring peace of mind and soothe the soul. This is very important.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd as Chow wraps up leading his students through a series of movements in the Tai Chi Garden – among them signature movements like “Buddha pestle” (a punching movement) and “white goose spreading wings” (an advance-and-retreat movement, just like a goose when it opens its wings and jumps very fast suddenly) – it’s certainly soothing to observe. But there’s more to it than one might first assume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe learning process for Chen-style tai chi is split into 15 levels. Level one involves learning 74 movements as a sequence, which is called a “form”. “When you finish level one, we use the same form (74 movements) in the other 14 levels, but you go deeper and you learn the internal power in the other levels,” said Chow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's 'anti-ageing red diamond'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200317-uncovering-amazake-japans-ancient-fermented-superdrink\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Japan's miracle drink?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160829-hong-kongs-secret-night-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's secret night meal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing deeper involves more than just correctly learning the movements, but ensuring that both the external movements and the internal part, the Qi (energy), are moving together as yin and yang. By stimulating the internal energy (Qi) flow it helps to recharge the body and helps to detoxify.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Tai chi exercise involves the recognition, development, and use of Qi, which refers to the energy in the body,” explained Professor Chan. “Based on theoretical principles that are inherent to traditional Chinese medicine, Qi is the fundamental energy that sustains life and flows in the body along channels called meridians and collaterals, which enhance the integration of all organ systems and tissues, and promote good health and longevity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChow explains how he uses Qi in his own practice. “At the end of each movement in tai chi, we hold the posture until the Qi energy goes down and back to the earth. We call this state ‘Yin’,” said Chow. “Then you can start the next movement and take the Qi from the earth again with breathing to guide the energy to rotate and circulate inside your body. We call this state ‘Yang’. So, the entire sequence of 74 movements contains rhythm and changing of the speed. Alternately yin and yang. This is the meaning of tai chi.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe meaning of tai chi is something that fellow Hong Kong-based tai chi teacher, Linda Fung, wishes more people better understood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We often misunderstand tai chi,” said Fung. “When we say tai chi, people tend to think it’s just moving your arms and legs and doing some movement exercise, but tai chi moves are part of a subset of tai chi philosophy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFung, who practices and teaches the Li-style of tai chi, says that tai chi is more than just the physical movements, it’s a way of life. It encompasses arts, music, lifestyle, she said, and you have to understand the yin and yang that is the core of tai chi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In tai chi it’s the interconnection between the yin, which is the body, and yang, which is our mind,” said Fung. “So it’s always the mind and body moving and working together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt an 11th-floor yoga studio – a sanctuary of calm overlooking Hong Kong’s dizzying central business district – Fung guides her students through a beginners’ class. Trained as a ballet dancer at the Royal Ballet School in London and later at the Julliard School in New York, she exudes a natural grace that embodies all her movements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to teaching classes, Fung practices tai chi herself every morning, often outdoors, and says it helps her to achieve a balance in her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In tai chi you slow down your movement, but yet you’re still breathing in certain patterns and so it is movement meditation,” said Fung. “With that level of focus, time just disappears, it’s like there is no time. It’s a great feeling.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ability to be able to slow down and to have clarity and awareness even when things are in crisis, is, for Fung, one of the best health benefits of tai chi. “With tai chi practice, even when situations are out of hand, you can still retain a calmness like an eye of the storm. That is the core of tai chi: it’s about harmony.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Fung believes that tai chi is a treasure trove of good stuff that has never been more needed in the world. “We have to share it with everyone, particularly now, in the 21st Century, where there are so many ways that we are distracted with problems and even illnesses. Tai chi is really very important for people, to give us a chance for happiness, wisdom and health.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBBC Travel’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-29T21:30:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Asia’s centuries-old healing technique","headlineShort":"A centuries-old healing technique","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Experts point to the health benefits of tai chi as a reason lifespan has increased in Hong Kong over the last 50 years.","summaryShort":"The ancient exercise has been tied to longer life","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:48:20.28342Z","entity":"article","guid":"21c25136-30b0-4678-b134-286696132ef1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:08:16.975279Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b54993ad834","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Quick chopping motions are expected in many types of massage. But in daoliao, or knife massage, the chopping is done with real blades.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELying face down on the massage table, I waited fearfully for the chopping to start. My knife massage therapist, Elsa, was cheerfully wielding two meat cleavers. That’s because, while chopping motions are expected in lots of body massage, in this one, knives do the chopping.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EElsa began by using her hands to press my body and loosen the extra tension I was surely now carrying. Then the cold, steel knives started their gentle pummelling, over my back, arms and my head. I wouldn’t have known they were knives at work if it wasn’t for the occasional clinking sound, like cutlery against a plate, as they touched. After Elsa told me to relax for the third time, I gave in and closed my eyes as the knives worked on getting my \u003Cem\u003Eqi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or life force, flowing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the chopping ended, I must have been asleep. Surprisingly, many people do doze off when pounded by these – admittedly blunt – knives for 70 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile it looks dangerous, \u003Cem\u003Edaoliao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which translates as“knife massage” or “knife therapy”, is believed to have physical and emotional healing powers and is a form of Chinese medicine that is thought to be more than 2,000 years old. Practitioners say it was first carried out by monks in ancient China. It spread to Japan in the Tang Dynasty more than 1,000 years ago and to Taiwan following the Chinese Civil War in the 1940s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile knife massage is hard to find today in China and Japan, it has undergone a resurgence in Taiwan in recent years as people have sought it out to deal with the stresses of modern life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fancientartofkm\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ancient Art of Knife Massage Dao Liao I-Jing Education Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Taipei has trained practitioners for almost four decades. They have 36 branches in Taiwan, 15 of which have opened in the past five years. They have also taught people from around the world, from Japan to Hong Kong, France to Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, people seek out the therapists’ knives to help relieve physical ailments, improve sleep quality and deal with the pain of being dumped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe knives target “qi doors”, or pressure points, similar to other types of Chinese medicine like acupuncture. But practitioners also believe the steel knives have an invisible power.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore entering the knife massage world 15 years ago, centre director Hsiao Mei-fang gave and taught beauty treatments and meridian massage, another type of traditional Chinese medicine focused on getting the body’s energy flowing. But she said she felt tired every evening because “bad energy” from clients was transferring to her through her touch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA centuries-old healing technique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200317-uncovering-amazake-japans-ancient-fermented-superdrink\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Japan's miracle drink?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190814-the-birthplace-of-modern-nature-healing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Slovenian pilgrimage for wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I got more income, but I couldn’t sleep,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne day, one of her students told her about knife massage. In this, the steel knives are meant to absorb bad karma from the client. Today, Hsiao says she sees herself as a “ghost-hunter”, tracking down the actions and results from her clients’ previous lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“For me, I really feel that knife massage sometimes is like hunting ghosts, your past, your previous life,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe therapists have certain rules to follow. For instance, if they are in a bad mood, they shouldn’t give a knife massage in case they “transfer bad energy to the client,” according to Hsiao. In any case, brandishing two knives while in a bad mood doesn’t seem like a good idea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Knife massage sometimes is like hunting ghosts, your past, your previous life","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo keep their own energies pure, all practitioners stick to a vegan diet. Hsiao and her army of therapists also wake up at or before 05:00 every morning and do 100 squats and headstands, and bash knives for 30 minutes against a pillow to get their qi going.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a lot of work for the therapists – but also for the clients. Before my massage, Elsa got me doing 10 minutes of squats and stretching with her, both of us holding two wooden “cosmos sticks” in our hands, which are meant to help you balance your qi. Hsiao says parents bring children to play with the sticks and learn about qi in hopes of reducing school-related stress, while businesspeople consult her over whom they should hire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The cosmos sticks help you to balance your qi, take away some bad qi or energy, and the knife massage is to take away your karma,” said Hsiao. “In our culture, we believe qi is everything. If your energy is balanced, it will help you see things clearly.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps this physical activity was part of the reason I fell asleep on the massage table. In fact, the whole knife massage experience was more than I’d expected. When making an appointment, I was asked to send a recent photo of myself so they could find a suitable therapist according to the energy emanating off it. (Thanks to the apparent acceptance of modern technology, a digital photo works fine.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon after arriving, Elsa showed me five meteorites sitting at the side of the room; practitioners believe the meteorites have healing powers for the body, mind and spirit, and place the knives next to them to recharge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen of course there were the knives, cold, rectangular, metal cleavers, which looked like they had been taken from a chef’s kitchen or a crime thriller. Practitioners must study hard and follow the teachings, otherwise the knives could be dangerous, said Hsiao. However, in the centre’s 40 years’ history, no client has ever been injured by knives, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“At the beginning I was scared when I saw the knives, I thought it was dangerous,” client Chiu Mei-lan, 73, had earlier told me. “I was quite afraid, I said to the therapist, ‘don’t hit very hard, just lightly.’ It started to feel quite nice, so I said, ‘you can do it harder, that’s too light.’”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChiu first tried the massage because she was having trouble sleeping. “After knife massage, I sleep very well,” she confided.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the chopping board, Elsa draped towels over the clothes on my body, as well as my head. The knives began working on what I was told were my 10 qi doors. For 70 minutes, two blades quickly and gently pummelled, one after the other, moving from the top of my head to the soles of my feet and leaving me with the impression that I had been thoroughly targeted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We believe qi is everything. If your energy is balanced, it will help you see things clearly.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome clients come to consult with Hsiao, who uses a small, circular board with a compass at the centre to help her clients find their direction, or purpose, in life. This is a divination board, based on an ancient Chinese text called the I-Ching, or Book of Changes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s like I put your information in my Google,” she told me. “If I enter your information [into the board], I will know present you, past you and future you, so I could give you advice very easily.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter tapping the board with a stick and seemingly pondering deeply for a few minutes, she pronounced that I was very into “justice, like Oprah”. She also gave me some general health warnings, such as I should eat more calcium and less ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMichael Stanley-Baker, a historian of Chinese medicine and religion at the Nanyang Technological University in Singapore, said that knife massage looks as spectacular as “fakirs who lie on nail beds and Daoists climbing knife ladders”, with “a technique that is masterable, not miraculous, but nevertheless spectacular.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In practice, there is a blurred connection to Traditional Chinese Medicine [TCM],” he said, “which really places this in the realm of ‘folk medicine’ – a hodgepodge of theories, charts and aphorisms that draw on traditional knowledge, but not from a thorough grounding in medical theory that one would expect from a TCM professional.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHsiao said she didn’t need to convince anyone about the effectiveness of knife therapy, as people will believe anyway if you cure them of their ills. “They will go to so many shops or [try] different therapies … and after [their] experience they will find the best one,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor me, having a knife massage was an experience rather than simply a massage. I went away with meteorites swirling in my mind and pondering how much ice cream I really eat. But I was undeniably relaxed. I went to bed early, slept through to the next morning when my alarm went off, and then immediately fell asleep for another couple of hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel’s\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-02T21:41:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Taiwan’s 2,000-year-old knife massage","headlineShort":"The world’s most dangerous massage?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Quick chopping motions are expected in many types of massage. But in daoliao, or knife massage, the chopping is done with real blades.","summaryShort":"In daoliao, or knife massage, the massage is done with real blades","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:50:05.62574Z","entity":"article","guid":"a5c35076-0f1f-481e-ba41-c0d8d6c5ad82","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:10:06.866947Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","_id":"624ec67e1f4b7b7a7d57fdd6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fheide-brandes"],"bodyIntro":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings. But these aren't for the thin-skinned: among other options, they can involve a rub-down with stinging nettles.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the back room of a small shop in Quito, Ecuador, a petite, elderly Ecuadorian woman rubbed a bundle of stinging nettles over my naked body. As she muttered in Spanish, her hands made quick scrubbing motions from my head to my toes. Within seconds, my body buzzed with a prickly, burning sensation. Welts popped up in angry red streaks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Your energy is blocked. We must open your energy lines,\" she said. As she scrubbed my now-irritated skin one more time, I couldn't help but wince at the pain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEmma Lagla is one of Ecuador’s limpiadores (cleaners). For centuries, these traditional healers have used what they consider magical, sacred plants from the Ecuadorian landscape to treat folk illnesses including the feeling of bad luck or a tainted aura.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd come for a spiritual cleansing, a process that involves a vigorous rubdown with traditional plants to remove bad energy. If the burning sensation and the stinging welts that danced over my body were any sign, I needed it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw3r2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn every downtown market in Ecuador's capital city, curanderos (traditional healers) offer their skills in stalls filled with plants like roses, valued for their spiritual heartiness; lemongrass, which can be mixed into horchata to reduce inflammation; and guayusa, an Andes holly-like bush used by native indigenous tribes as a stimulant. In addition to scented oils that salespeople swear will make your lover desire you more, the stalls include other Andes Highlands plants like rue (herb-of-grace), used to help with menstrual cycles; and ishpingo, an Ecuadorian spice that has anti-fungal properties and can be made into a tea to cure stomach ache.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrick-and-mortar stores run by curanderos along the side streets, offering not only herbal products but also treatments, are also popular. (Limpiadores are a particular kind of curanderos who perform the cleansing treatments.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw42n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"These ladies here are waiting for patients to clean their bad spirits, bad energy and stress,\" said Marcos Peralvo, my Quito tour guide, of the other people waiting in the shop when I entered. \"It is a kind of an ancestral magic type of medicine, but it is not natural medicine. You're coming here for treatments that the doctors are not able to cure, like cleaning the auras and cleaning up the body spirits. They are using those herbs, and those herbs are going to absorb the bad energies of people. That is our belief.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile adults seek cleanings, the majority of patients are babies whose anxious mothers are looking to protect their offspring's \"pure auras\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, stinging nettle is not used on babies. Instead, I watched a woman hold her baby as Lagla patted the infant with a soft bundle of herbs that included mint and marco (ambrosia arborecens), an anti-rheumatic herb commonly used to treat bronchial and respiratory issues. After fussing, the baby settled down as Lagla placed a necklace of hard green berries around its neck for protection. She then stroked the baby with a handful of rose petals soaked in rose oil to help soothe its skin and infuse it with good energy. The baby fell into a quiet sleep in its mother's arms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now she will give the mother herbs for a tea. The mother has to drink it because she is still nursing her child,\" Peralvo said. \"She must drink this tea several times a day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw4bq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELimpiadores can provide other services like herbalism and massage, said Peralvo. Others claim to address other problems such as dealing with an unfaithful husband, casting love spells, finding lost items or even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC2642781\u002F\"\u003E\"treating\" textbooks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help students excel in tests. Some claim the title of \u003Cem\u003Ellamadors\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (callers), who can call back a departed soul into an individual's body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring an extensive cleaning, the healer performs a \u003Cem\u003Elimpia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an Andean cleaning procedure born from the belief that Mother Nature is the cure for any ailment. A limpia may involve rubbing an egg and a dead black guinea pig over a patient's body to assess health. Then come the herbs and stinging nettle, known in the Andes for its cleansing powers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot being ill, I didn't require the full black guinea pig or egg treatment – instead, my cleansing was simpler and quicker than a full limpia. It was more like a spiritual massage, a quick scrub to wash away the bad energy. With my body still on fire from the nettles, Lagla gathered her rose petals soaked in rose oil to anoint my skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This will soothe your skin and your spirit,\" she explained, her granddaughter translating. \"You had stress and low energy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeliefs in these traditions run deep in the Andean highlands of Ecuador, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fetd.ohiolink.edu\u002Fapexprod\u002Frws_etd\u002Fsend_file\u002Fsend?accession=ohiou1618062150942875&disposition=inline\"\u003Eare losing ground in the country's metropolitan areas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But not completely – at some hospitals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-18483584\"\u003Edoctors allow limpiadores to \"clean\" patients\u003C\u002Fa\u003E while they administer their own treatments. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.health.harvard.edu\u002Fmental-health\u002Fthe-power-of-the-placebo-effect\"\u003EThere's evidence that your brain can convince your body that a treatment works\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – to the point that, in some cases, a placebo can work as well as modern medicine, at least when it comes to conditions like pain management.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0btw4lg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocals like Peralvo, who grew up in the rural highlands north of Quito, need no convincing. He believes in the healing properties of the herbs, he said, and he has used them himself: once, after a noisy parade scared his two-year-old daughter, she fell ill and wouldn't stop crying. His then-wife didn't believe in folk remedies, but he convinced her to let him to take the baby to a healer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"After she was cleaned, the healer told me she would sleep for at least three hours. My baby, she never naps in the day, but she did. She fell asleep and when she woke up, she wanted to go to her room and walked there all by herself,\" Peralvo said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You have to believe in those kinds of things for it to work, but some people from the cities, they don't believe in this kind of thing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I left the little shop in Old Town Quito, the welts on my skin still burned but I felt oddly relaxed. The tension of travelling for 10 days seemed to melt away. By morning, I felt lighter in my soul and energetic. Maybe I just wanted to believe in the cleansing power of the limpia – but even if the ritual was a placebo, I'd learned that can go a long way when it comes to healing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fwell-world","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-17T10:01:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The healers who treat 'bad luck'","headlineShort":"The healers who treat 'bad luck'","image":["p0btxl3l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-0.1807","longitude":"78.4678","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0btxl3l"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200428-asias-centuries-old-healing-technique","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200601-taiwans-2000-year-old-knife-massage"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hundreds of traditional healers in Ecuador provide spiritual cleansings. But these aren't for the thin-skinned: among other options, they can involve a rub-down with stinging nettles.","summaryShort":"\"I couldn't help but wince with pain\"","tag":["tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-16T23:02:15.400647Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e2fc933-cc1e-4ba4-830d-607bcbaff435","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-18T15:00:41.813409Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fecuador"],"destinationStat":"south-america_south-america_ecuador","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","_id":"624ec64b1f4b7b4f623f33fa","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"After defaulting on its substantial national debt, the Seychelles was offered an unusual deal.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated around 1,600 kilometres (994 miles) off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles is an ecological paradise. The archipelago of 115 lush and rocky islands sits amongst vast swathes of ocean, covering some 1.35 million square kilometres (521,000 square miles). They’re home to some of the world’s last pristine coral reefs and are teeming with endangered species, including the southern fin whale and the Indian Ocean’s only dugongs – large marine mammals also known as “sea cows”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the island nation has had its fair share of problems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Seychelles has one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdatabank.worldbank.org\u002Fdata\u002Fdownload\u002FGDP.pdf\"\u003Esmallest GDPs in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and fewer than 100,000 residents, whose livelihoods rely heavily on marine tourism and fishing revenue. After years of borrowing, in 2008 the Seychelles defaulted on payments for its $406m (£311.6m) national debt and had to be bailed out by the International Monetary Fund.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the same time, plastic pollution, climate change and overfishing threaten to deliver a catastrophic blow to the nation’s marine ecosystem, which sustains \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.woi.economist.com\u002Fseychelles-swaps-debt-for-nature\u002F\"\u003Emore than two-thirds of the local economy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. After a mass bleaching event in 1998, in some areas, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.meecc.gov.sc\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2017\u002F04\u002FCoral-Bleaching-In-The-Seychelles-Impacts-and-Recommendations-.pdf\"\u003Ethe Seychelles’ has already lost up to 90% of its coral reefs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E. The \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Enation is also \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.meecc.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fclimate-change\u002F\"\u003Eextremely vulnerable to flooding and coastal erosion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a bid to build climate resilience and boost its blue economy, the Seychelles signed a unique deal in 2015: almost $22m (£16.8m) of its national debt was written off, in exchange for the country doing more to protect its oceans. The “debt for nature” swap involved the US conservation group The Nature Conservancy (TNC) buying the debt, in exchange for a promise to create 13 new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwf.panda.org\u002Four_work\u002Foceans\u002Fsolutions\u002Fprotection\u002Fprotected_areas\u002F\"\u003Emarine protected areas (MPAs)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EYou might also like:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca title=\"Why indigenous folklore can save animals’ lives\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200728-the-mythical-creatures-that-protect-the-philippines\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy indigenous folklore can save animals’ lives\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200311-can-green-islams-environmental-fatwas-help-climate-change\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Muslim clerics preaching for Indonesia’s peat\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"The%20sparkling%20rise%20of%20the%20lab%20grown%20diamond\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe sparkling rise of the lab grown diamond\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the five years since, the Seychelles has progressed from protecting 0.04% to 30% of its national waters, covering 410,000 square kilometres (158,000 square miles) of ocean – an area larger than Germany. Fishing, oil exploration and other marine development has been banned or severely restricted in the MPAs. Anyone who carries out illegal activities in these areas faces a hefty fine, or, in some cases, imprisonment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A fisherman sitting in a boat of fish (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe swap has been hailed as a major milestone for ocean conservation. Conservationists say it sets a strong precedent for other countries to strike similar deals which benefit both the economy and environment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow the deal works\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe nation’s foreign debt is mostly owed to the UK, France, Belgium and Italy. TNC bought it at a discount and then raised a further $5m (£3.8m) from philanthropic donors to lower the interest rate on the government’s outstanding loan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deal has allowed the Seychelles’ government to buy back some of its debt at a discount and restructure it, while freeing up cash flow for conservation, says Rob Weary who leads TNC’s debt conversion programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDebt-for-nature swaps have taken place in the past to preserve tropical forests in the Caribbean and South America, but the Seychelles’ deal is the first of its kind to focus on marine conservation and the first to use loan capital to help finance the swap, says Weary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe government repays the TNC loans into a specially created independent trust, the Seychelles Conservation and Climate Adaptation Trust (SeyCCAT), which will use this to fund marine conservation and climate adaptation programmes over the next 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve already dispersed over $1.5m (£1.15m),” says Angelique Pouponneau, chief executive of SeyCCAT. The trust has invested in several women-led initiatives, including a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fseyccat.org\u002Fseaweed-a-hidden-resource-a-recycling-project\u002F\"\u003Eproject that pays poor women to clear seaweed off beaches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and turn it into compost for home gardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe debt for nature swap involved one of the most extensive ocean-mapping projects in the world, second only to the Marine Spatial Plan completed by Norway. The process took several years to finish as a team worked to pinpoint which high biodiversity areas should be protected, while trying to minimise economic damage to existing industries, says Helena Sims, a marine biologist who led the project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A hawksbill sea turtle swimming, as seen from below (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe MPAs cover 85% of the Seychelles’ coral reefs and 88% of the nation’s shallow waters, where most nature tourism occurs, according to Sims. She says fishermen, petroleum companies, conservationists and tourism operators were all consulted in the process. “We had to balance social, economic and ecological objectives. If you don’t have good agreement, you might not have compliance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFinancial benefits\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe global economy would greatly benefit from the creation of more protected areas, more than 100 scientists and economists said in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eurekalert.org\u002Fpub_releases\u002F2020-07\u002Fasu-3o070820.php#:~:text=The%20report%20entitled%2C%20%22Protecting%2030,%2C%20forestry%2C%20and%20fisheries%20sectors.\"\u003Erecent report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProtecting at least 30% of the world’s land and oceans could lead to an increase of $250bn (£191.9bn) of global economic revenue annually, the report found. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iucn.org\u002Fnews\u002Fsecretariat\u002F201811\u002Freport-shows-15-terrestrial-and-7-marine-areas-now-covered-protected-areas\"\u003ECurrently only 15% of the world’s land and 7% of the oceans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are covered by protected areas. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblog.marine-conservation.org\u002F2020\u002F02\u002F2020-is-here-will-we-meet-global-conservation-targets-for-marine-protected-areas.html\"\u003EJust 2.5% of the oceans falls within “no-take” MPAs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that prohibit fishing and human extraction of natural resources, such as oil and gas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProtected areas significantly drive economic growth, says Anthony Waldron, a researcher focused on conservation finance and lead author of the report. “[Conservation] benefits are bigger than the costs. Protected areas generate more economic revenue than fishing [and act] as an economic driver for nature tourism, a rapidly growing industry,” Waldron says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Seychelles recognised the benefits marine conservation could yield. “Sustainability is particularly important for a small island nation like the Seychelles which is very dependent on the environment. Fisheries and tourism are the two pillars of our economy,” says Pouponneau.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A scientist surveying a reef in the Seychelles (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFish products make up 96% of the total value of domestic exports and are critical to the nation’s food security, which has one of the highest levels of fish consumption per capita in the world, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fewsdata.rightsindevelopment.org\u002Ffiles\u002Fdocuments\u002F42\u002FWB-P155642_vUnwDBU.pdf\"\u003Eaccording to the World Bank\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fewsdata.rightsindevelopment.org\u002Ffiles\u002Fdocuments\u002F42\u002FWB-P155642_vUnwDBU.pdf\"\u003E2017 report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the World Bank warned that the “unsustainable use of the marine environment is a major risk to the future of the Seychelles’ blue economy”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe MPAs will help declining fish stocks recover as well as increase the size and diversity of fish, which in turn should boost fishermen’s incomes and overall revenues, says Enric Sala, a marine ecologist and National Geographic explorer who has carried out research in the Seychelles. “The fish in these areas are in much better shape. They produce more eggs and larvae and replenish life in the ocean,” he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFully protected marine reserves can increase the total biomass of fish by over 600%, boost their size by over 25% and expand the variety of species by over 20%, compared to nearby unprotected areas, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fpii\u002FS0308597X17307686#bib3\"\u003E2018 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tourism benefits are also enormous, says Sala, noting that a healthy coral reef can generate billions of dollars in revenue. The Great Barrier Reef contributed $6.4bn (£4.91bn) to the Australian economy in 2016 and helped support more than 64,000 jobs, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww2.deloitte.com\u002Fcontent\u002Fdam\u002FDeloitte\u002Fau\u002FDocuments\u002FEconomics\u002Fdeloitte-au-economics-great-barrier-reef-230617.pdf\"\u003E2017 analysis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoral reefs are also effective storm barriers which save countries over $4bn (£3.07bn) in flood damages every year, according to TNC. Without coral reefs, the annual cost of flood damage would double and storm costs would triple, TNC researchers said in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-018-04568-z\"\u003E2018 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHealthy ocean, healthy planet\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also strong mental and physical health benefits associated with spending time in nature, Sala says. “When people visit protected areas, their mental wellbeing improves. Nature has this power to reduce our stress,” he notes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The view from a beach in the Seychelles (Credit: Reuters)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flink.springer.com\u002Farticle\u002F10.1007\u002Fs00484-019-01717-x\"\u003E2019 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that “forest bathing” – the Japanese practice of spending time among trees – could significantly lower people’s levels of the stress hormone cortisol, reduced blood pressure, improved concentration and memory. Exposure to airborne chemicals emitted by plants and trees can also boost immunity. For example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002F17903349\u002F\"\u003Ea small study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Efound increased activity by a certain type of white blood cell, in men who had been exposed to “phytoncides” – a type of antimicrobial compound which contributes to the pleasant aroma of forests – in their hotel rooms.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperts say a healthy ocean should form a critical part of the global recovery from the coronavirus pandemic. “A healthy ocean presents enhanced opportunities for economic recovery post Covid-19, and for building resilience and withstanding the impacts of natural disasters and extreme weather events,” Commonwealth Secretary-General Patricia Scotland said in May.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESala says the pandemic was caused by human destruction of ecosystems and highlights the importance of countries prioritising conservation in their recovery from the crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe recovery presents “a good opportunity to reconsider the debt of low-income countries and help them lift some of their debt, [and] at the same time help them invest in the nature sector which is going to be key for longer term prosperity”, says Sala.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETNC estimates that up to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.org\u002Fen-us\u002Fabout-us\u002Fwhere-we-work\u002Fafrica\u002Fstories-in-africa\u002Fseychelles-conservation-commitment-comes-to-life\u002F#:~:text=Seychelles%20is%20a%20Model%20for%20the%20World&text=The%20MSP%20covers%20all%201.4,covered%20by%20such%20a%20plan.\"\u003E85 countries could use a debt for nature model\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to make their economies more resilient and Weary says plans for similar deals are already under way in several Caribbean and African countries. “This type of deal builds long-term resilience. With climate change we should be prepared for many crises,” says Pouponneau.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHidden Value\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe tend to think that there are rational, permanent reasons that we desire certain things more than others. But from the Aztecs, who were baffled that Spanish conquistadors prized gold over feathers, to the modern-day, where negative oil prices recently flummoxed global markets, history tells us that this is not always the case. This series takes a look at the hidden factors that drive the value we place on things – and how what we prize might change in the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E or \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=fut.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “The Essential List”. A handpicked selection of stories from \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Future\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-03T13:33:34.215Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The deal that saved Seychelles’ troubled waters","headlineShort":"The islands paid to save their seas","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"After defaulting on its substantial national debt, the Seychelles was offered an unusual deal.","summaryShort":"Should countries be paid to protect their wildlife?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-08-05T02:02:18.832928Z","entity":"article","guid":"9b91460b-5673-4d97-85e9-8d9bdc91c9ca","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T19:00:35.528977Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","_id":"624ec67e1f4b7b70455f876b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you stand on the northernmost tip of Bird Island, it can feel like you're looking at eternity: there is ocean as far as the eye can see. The effect is similar when you snorkel off the same shore; not far out from the beach, the Earth plunges away into a dark oceanic abyss hundreds, then thousands, of metres deep. The feeling is akin to vertigo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island is the most northern isle of the Seychelles' 115-island archipelago. It sits on the outer rim of the vast, undersea Mascarene Plateau, an extraordinary uplift of mid-ocean shallow water that covers an area larger than Portugal. The plateau begins at Bird Island and continues south for 2,000km, running almost the length of Madagascar. In the other direction, north of Bird, the Indian Ocean is deep, wide and uninterrupted by any landfall all the way to the Arabian Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island's geography alone makes its story worth telling. But in the past half-century, Bird tells a parallel story of natural renewal, one almost without peer in the world of birds. And it all has to do with the ultimate contradiction: Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A large group of birds gathers on a beach right near the water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBird Island first entered the historical record in 1771 when the captain of a passing trading ship, The Eagle, described the island as \"covered with birds innumerable\" and with \"many sea cows (dugongs) on the beach\". He named it Bird Island. Thirty-seven years later, in 1808, the French privateering ship Hirondelle ran aground on a reef off Bird's north-eastern coast. Half of the 180 people on board died; the other half made it to Bird Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey survived in part because it was September, when the island is filled with birds – a much-needed source of food. Even so, after 22 days, with limited water and with no prospect of rescue, six of the sailors set out on a makeshift raft for Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles archipelago 100km south of Bird, and the shipwreck survivors were subsequently saved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the next 150 years, very little happened on Bird. One enterprising farmer tried to grow papaya, cotton and coconuts; only the coconuts brought in any real income. In 1882, a passing British ship found two Africans living on the island, salting fish and birds in what must have been the loneliest of existences. In the decade following 1895, Bird exported nearly 20,000 tons (20 million kg) of guano (bird droppings) as fertiliser to the sugarcane growers of Mauritius. At the time, 100 people lived on the island. There has never been a town on Bird and the only people living on the island were those working there. Whenever trade dried up or crops failed, the workers left, leaving the island nearly deserted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 1950s, only a handful of people remained, coconut groves entirely covered the island and the breeding colony of sooty terns had fallen from more than a million pairs to barely 18,000 because there were no restrictions on eating the birds and the proliferation of coconut trees meant that more birds were unable to nest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen a Seychellois accountant named Guy Savy bought the island in 1967, world prices for copra (dried coconut) were in freefall. \"We ran it as a normal coconut plantation,\" said Savy, \"until it became clear that there was more money in birds than in coconuts – that wildlife tourism was the future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGambling on wildlife over coconuts was a pioneering move. Bird was the first of Seychelles' smaller islands to go down that path. Making the bet even bolder was that, at the time, the only way to reach the country was on a monthly ship arriving from Bombay (now Mumbai) or Mombasa, Kenya. Back then, to get to Bird from the main island of Mahé, involved a 12-hour boat ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut everything was about to change. In 1972, Seychelles finally got its first international airport. By the time it opened, Savy had finished Bird Island's own airstrip in readiness. The following year, the island welcomed its first tourists with 10 chalets, rising to 24 a few years later. Savy completed a new lodge in 1993.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A tortoise heads along sand toward the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, visitors to the island fell in love with Esmeralda: a giant male Aldabra tortoise with a nearly 2m long. He entered the Guinness Book of Records in 1989 as the world's heaviest tortoise, weighing in at 298kg. According to local legend, Esmeralda was born in the 1780s and arrived on Bird Island aboard the shipwrecked Hirondelle in 1808. If true, that would make Esmeralda nearly 220 years old, meaning he has been alive for almost as long as there have been people living in Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose fortunate enough to visit Bird Island could – and still can – also see green and hawksbill turtles, as well as the 23 other giant tortoises who live on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan's acidic underwater hot springs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital\"\u003ENew Zealand's endangered penguin hospital\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoyenne Island: The world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the real focus is the birds. When Savy bought the island, there were 15,000 nesting pairs of sooty terns – sleek, black-winged birds with an affecting black eye stripe. Sooty terns are remarkable birds. They have no oil in their feathers and are, therefore, unable to float. Most sooty terns only land when nesting and rearing their young. At Bird Island, that's from April or May to October.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Between seasons, they spend the whole time on the wing: they do not return to land to roost or to rest,\" said Rachel Bristol, an expert in sooty terns with extensive experience of Bird Island and its breeding colonies; she is currently collaborating with the Max Planck Institute of Animal Behaviour to track around 250 sooty terns. \"They obviously do sleep, but they probably sleep for short bursts frequently while flying, and may be able to shut down the two halves of the brain separately so that they are always aware of what is around them.\" Just as incredibly, she said, \"they can clearly spend years airborne: when they fledge, they possibly do not return to land until they reach breeding age, which is around five years old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two birds with bright underbodies stand on the ground","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESooty tern eggs have traditionally been considered a delicacy by the people of Seychelles, and, from the beginning, Savy prohibited anyone from eating the island's birds and eggs. Because rabbits and rats wreak havoc on these ground-nesting birds, his team eradicated them. Crucially, they also discovered that, because they need open, sandy soil on which to lay their eggs, sooty terns could not nest beneath the coconut palm trees, of which there were far too many on Bird. Savy cleared the coconut trees from the island's north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlmost immediately, the sooty terns returned: in season, there are now an estimated 350,000 breeding pairs, although the number has reached 500,000 in the past. The sooty terns on Bird nest, says Bristol, at a density of seven nests per square metre, spread across the 13-hectare breeding colony. Bird Island is now one of the world's largest bird breeding colonies – and, said Bristol, one of the most important and best-managed such colonies anywhere in the Seychelles archipelago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith so many sooty terns on an island that covers less than 1 sq km of land, it's easy to imagine that there would be little room for anything else. But the island's portfolio of resident and migrant avifauna is rich and varied and includes terns and tropicbirds, plovers and ruddy turnstones, shearwaters and even a resident population of the handsome Seychelles blue pigeon. Even the island's shape resembles a bird: if you look at a satellite image of Bird Island, it resembles in outline a coquettish dove adrift in the Indian Ocean. And so rich is the birdlife here that Bird took on a starring role in two episodes of Sir David Attenborough's classic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0175394\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Life of Birds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, broadcast in 1998 and 1999.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can feel like stepping into one of those episodes when you travel to Bird.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hundreds of birds flying in the sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt takes just half an hour to get between Mahé and Bird Island by plane. But they are worlds apart. Mahé is quite densely populated with plenty of modern infrastructure. On Bird, there are no motorised vehicles and the airstrip must be checked for tortoises before planes receive permission to land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can be tempting to remove your shoes as you deplane on Bird, tuck them away in your suitcase and not put them back on again until it's time to depart. This is a place to feel the sand between your toes, to walk beneath the casuarina trees in the island's south or amid the remaining coconut palms that shade the walking trails of the interior. Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.birdislandseychelles.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBird Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing. Best of all, there is nothing to stop you from walking all the way around the island – it only takes an hour – without leaving the beach. The only interruptions will likely be frequent stops for a swim, a snorkel or to gaze out to sea and the infinite horizon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoral is everywhere: under the water; under the sand. \"It's a coral cay, as opposed to a granite or volcanic island like many of the other islands in Seychelles,\" said Savy. \"The prevailing winds come from the south-east, and over thousands of years they have pushed the coral over the island – that's how the island was created. If you dig down anywhere on the island, you won't find rocks. You find coral.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from Bird Island Resort always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravellers who visit between April and October will also hear the birds before they see them. The terns' gull-like clamour is a constant soundtrack, a reassuring evocation of remote ocean shores and deserted tropical beaches. But with darkness comes silence and more stars in the night sky than you ever knew existed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStay for long enough and you can almost feel the stress and noise of the human world ebbing away with the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other Seychelles islands, which have exclusive, luxury resorts, Savy and his team have gone for simplicity, for a fidelity to barefoot tourism with nature ascendant. There is in-room electricity and wifi, for example, but ocean breezes flood the rooms instead of air-con.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've always tried to keep things simple,\" said Savy. \"It's a back-to-nature experience. We don't compromise on that. We've never disturbed the island. We leave it alone and see what happens to it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-03T15:55:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A paradise with too many palm trees","headlineShort":"A paradise with too many palm trees","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.7196093","longitude":"55.2015406","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","summaryShort":"Cutting them down had a surprising result","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-02T15:56:02.811596Z","entity":"article","guid":"1e6bb3b8-810e-4cf5-8da4-d767c741a7db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-02T21:09:04.383962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b2a1f768aac","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find – but travellers-in-the-know can still feast on delicious traditional dishes around the Indian Ocean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a steep valley high on the eastern slopes of the Seychelles island of Mahé, the spice garden of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seychelles.fr\u002Fjardin-roi.php\"\u003ELe Jardin du Roi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tells a story of unimaginable variety. Anchored by a graceful 19th-Century home of white wood, soaring ceilings and big windows designed to catch a cooling mountain breeze, Le Jardin du Roi is a window on so much that is good about traditional Seychelles Creole cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 120 different species of spices and fruits grow here across 25 hectares that face down towards the sea. Guided trails wind past coconut palms and cinnamon, avocado and jackfruit. Right next to the entrance, nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) grows wild and free.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELe Jardin du Roi began life in 1772, barely two years after the first French settlers had arrived to establish the fledgling Seychelles colony. Eager for France to join the lucrative global trade in spices, the French colonist Pierre Poivre sent clandestine expeditions to the spice islands of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and the Moluccas (Dutch East Indies) to steal spices so that they might be grown in Seychelles. Poivre's dastardly act of horticultural piracy nearly came to nothing: in 1780, the island's governor destroyed the spice garden when he mistook an approaching ship for an enemy vessel: the spices were too valuable to fall into enemy hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome survived, and they would become central to Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Smoked fish salad on white plate","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen these first European settlers arrived in the Seychelles in the 18th Century, they found an uninhabited string of islands blessed with rich abundance. The waters were rich in fish and the year-round climate – Seychelles lies beyond the Indian Ocean cyclone zone – was conducive to the establishment of small plantations where, until slavery was abolished in 1835, enslaved Africans often did most of the work growing food. The location, too, combined deep-ocean isolation with a safe harbour for passing ships that carried with them spices and culinary influences from Europe, Africa, India and China. In this complicated confluence of factors was born Seychelles' unique tradition of Creole cooking (the word ‘Creole’ is the adjective locals use to describe the people, language and cuisine of Seychelles).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I arrived in Seychelles in January, I expected a sampling of Creole dishes to be a major highlight of my visit. I imagined myself dining beneath coconut palms, looking out upon a turquoise sea as I tried the traditional flavours for which Seychelles is famous. I dreamed of fragrant spices – some known to me, others more unusual – wafting on ocean breezes. And I was very excited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's unknown indigenous cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fried food that defines an island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt turned that it wasn't that simple. Yes, almost every local with whom I spoke wanted to talk about the wonders of their national cuisine. And yes, they told a story of dishes filled with spices, flavours and natural ingredients. But almost in the same breath they apologised for how difficult it would be for me to try these dishes. It was, they said, a familiar story of globalisation, of how a younger generation of Seychellois were far more interested in fast food – pizza, hamburgers and the like – than local foods. Many restaurants were, they assured me, moving away from traditional dishes and towards catering to this new generation's appetite for everything new and foreign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHoping they were wrong, worried that they may be right, I set out to try and unearth what remained of Seychelle's culinary tradition. To do so, I called on three masters of Seychelles' culinary life. With me at upmarket restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flescaleresort.com\u002Fdining\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL’Escale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, overlooking the marina at Eden Island close to the capital Victoria, were Rose-Marie Emont and her Belgian-born husband Philos, who together opened one of the first restaurants in Seychelles – Chez Philos – back in 1981. Now retired, Philos is widely considered a pioneer of modern Seychellois cooking. Another of Seychelles' premier chefs and culinary identities, Christelle Verheyden, joined us as well. Between them they brought to the table nearly a century of local and international experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt first, they confirmed what I'd been told: \"We're losing a lot,\" said Rose-Marie. \"And we're losing it fast.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"White house in Le Jardin Du Roi Spice Garden, Mahe Island, Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut I wanted to know exactly what it was that was being lost, and over the hours that followed, they told a story of great variety and abundance. \"I had a guest who stayed with us for one month,\" remembered Philos. \"He ate every day in the restaurant. I made a bet with him: for every day that he ate in my restaurant, he would eat a different kind of fish. We did it. It was easy – 27 or 28 different kinds.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey also spoke about the intricacies of individual dishes that Seychellois hold dear. Should the bones be left in an authentic Creole chicken curry? They should. Do you roast the cardamom and other spices before cooking the curry? Absolutely. Do you mix notoriously fiery Seychelles chillies into an octopus curry or serve it separately? Either is fine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe three of them laughed at the audacity of some of the dishes that Philos and Rose-Marie prepared back in the day. There was the fruit-bat pâté whose fame reached Seychelles' presidential palace; the then-president used to send his personal driver to Chez Philos to pick up supplies. Or the sea-urchin soufflé; Rose-Marie's eyes glazed over at the memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf some of the dishes were in danger of disappearing, the three of them said, at least many of the natural ingredients survived. Philos swore that he could still find a different fish to cook for every day of the month, just as he had nearly four decades ago. \"Seychelles has the best avocado in the world,\" added Verheyden. \"If you see them on the table at the market or by the side of the road, buy them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe same is also true of spices. According to Verheyden, \u003Cem\u003Ecurry-pili\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a fragrant curry leaf that is generally smaller than the Indian version, is still used in local curries. \"Curry-pili and cinnamon still grow wild. You can stop alongside the road and find it easily.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rose-Marie and Philos Emont from Chez Philos, Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERose-Marie acknowledged that she still cooked traditional dishes at home for friends and family. And it remains a popular Sunday tradition among Seychellois to gather in family groups on the beach for barbecues, particularly at Au Cap and Anse Royale. At some, traditional Creole dishes – marinated tuna steaks cut open and filled with garlic and coriander and perhaps cooked in banana leaves; a curry animated with the bitter-sweet, cranberry-like flavours of hibiscus flowers – remain popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Traditionally, you would be invited to the home of family and friends. This is where we eat","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch gatherings are very much in keeping with how the Seychellois have always enjoyed their food. \"There is no tradition of people eating out in restaurants,\" said Rose-Marie. \"Traditionally, you would be invited to the home of family and friends. This is where we eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe problem, I was learning, is not that Creole cooking is disappearing from the islands. It's just becoming harder to find in the public sphere. Or is it?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn many restaurant menus, hidden among more international dishes, it is still possible to find grilled fish, smoked mackerel and marlin, mango salads, chicken or shrimp or octopus curries: these were all staples in the old Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf the high-end restaurants, L'Escale, whose kitchen Verheyden oversees, serves traditional dishes like the \"awfully spicy\" boudin Creole (black pudding) and \u003Cem\u003Echatini \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a traditional chutney-like salad of papaya, green mango and\u002For pumpkin, served cold or lukewarm). When she can get them, Verheyden makes sure that there is \u003Cem\u003Ecamaron\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a small, freshwater shrimp found only in a few Seychelles streams, on the menu. \"When I serve that,\" she said, \"there are often Seychellois crying, because they remember eating these when they were kids, and they haven't eaten them for 20 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe trio agreed that street food and some of the small takeaway places and informal restaurants scattered around Seychelles are good spots to try. Covid-permitting, Bazar Labrin, a Wednesday-evening food market by the beach at Beau Vallon, on the north-west coast of Mahé, might be a good place to find traditional foods such as chilli bites (lentils soaked in chilli then fried), fish cooked in banana leaves or aubergine fritters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Creole set menu at Marie-Antoinette","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I had some very nice aubergine fritters at La Gaulette,\" Verheyden recalled. \"That's another good place.\" La Gaulette is across the road from the long and lovely Baie Lazare beach along Mahé's south-western coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"And what about Le Reduit? Or Chez Léon?\" asked Philos, and all murmured in agreement; both are in Anse La Mouche on Mahé's south-west coast. Takeaway restaurant Chez Léon is the simple, eponymous home kitchen of a renowned Seychellois chef who once worked with Philos. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmarieantoinetterestaurant\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarie-Antoinette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stalwart of Creole cooking on a rise above the capital, Victoria. Once under the watchful eye of culinary matriarch Madam Fonseka, it has now passed to her grandchildren, and many dishes remain the same: their Creole set menu is a reassuring collection of greatest hits that includes chicken coconut curry, coconut chatini, mango salad, aubergine fritters, parrotfish fritters, tuna steak with a Creole sauce and more. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I go to La Digue,\" said Rose-Marie, speaking of one of the other inner islands, a short boat ride from Mahé, \"I go to the north-east of the island. There's one little restaurant there, called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FChezJulescafe\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChez Jules\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – perfect. You must order the palm heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we finally got up from the table, rumours of traditional Creole cooking's demise seemed greatly exaggerated. There are certainly more international restaurants in Seychelles than there used to be, and fewer places like Chez Philos. And perhaps because the Seychellois still eat mostly at home, my three companions had initially feared the worst. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut as I'd learned, you just need to know where to look.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Grilled catch of the day in Seychelles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-10T10:19:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The hidden legacy of the Seychelles' island cuisine","headlineShort":"What is true \"Creole cuisine\"?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-4.588232","longitude":"55.453384","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find – but travellers-in-the-know can still feast on delicious traditional dishes around the Indian Ocean archipelago.","summaryShort":"Seychelles' fragrant, spice-laden cuisine is increasingly hard to find","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-09T21:20:27.485355Z","entity":"article","guid":"faed4bd7-5d89-4a3e-8ec0-c5b8a4cd6fc0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:45.360341Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b198c29b380","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Falba-jaramillo"],"bodyIntro":"As tourism has impacted parts of Seychelles' environment, the island nation now aims to protect its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMade up of 115 islands dotting the Indian Ocean off East Africa, Seychelles is known as a global hotspot for biodiversity. With as much as 85% of its animals and 45% of its plant species considered endemic, the archipelago is sometimes called the \"Galapagos of the Indian Ocean\". And both on land and in the ocean, different groups are working to preserve this ecological paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis year, after creating a sophisticated zoning plan and completing extensive conversations with representatives from the country's tourism, fishing, petroleum and conservation efforts, the island nation is prepared to fully implement the landmark Marine Spatial Planning Initiative it announced several years ago: to protect 30% of its ocean territory. Tourism, climate change and other factors have already greatly impacted the environment of the Seychelles' more populated \"Inner Islands\", so this agreement – part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea deal to write off its national debt in exchange for conservation measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – is now aimed at protecting its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F185\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAldabra Atoll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the Outer Islands that the initiative will help preserve. This rare cluster of coral reef islands has been somewhat naturally protected for years due to its remote location (visitors require a special permit for access and must travel a whole day to get there), but, like many parts of the Seychelles, it is still susceptible to the dangers of climate change. In 1998, the Seychelles lost 90% of its coral reefs in a major coral bleaching event as a result of rising sea temperatures. The 13 new Marine Protected Areas are intended to preserve its ocean territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the environmental gains the protection areas will bring, the agreement has not been without its challenges. For example, in these new protected areas – which encompass an area the size of Germany – about half of the country's previous fishing areas would be off limits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Seychelles claims it's looking to bridge the gap between the ambitious initiative and the immediate needs of local economies by including stakeholders (such as fishing and tourism workers) in the conversation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":["p0bv93hr"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We are very small. We have very limited land mass, and we need the space for economic development,\" said Sherin Francis, chief executive of the Seychelles Tourism Board. \"But yet we manage to strike that balance and ensure that 50% of our land territory is protected.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ocean isn't the only part of Seychelles that's being preserved. On land, the National Parks Authority guards over two main areas, Morne Seychellois Park and Praslin National Park, both of which are home to an extensive list of endemic animal and plant species. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fmorne-seychellois\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMorne Seychellois Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the largest island of Mahé, covers 20% of the island's surface, provides fresh water to locals, and is crisscrossed by trails that pass historical ruins from when French and British colonists and Indian and Chinese traders passed through the islands. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fpraslin-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPraslin National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F261\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVallée de Mai Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a palm forest on the Unesco World Heritage List.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe parks' official designation was established once the Seychelles started growing as a tourist destination, a few years after the first international airport was built and the island nation gained its independence. Similar to the initiatives at sea, the national park status was meant to help protect the land while creating an infrastructure to allow visitors to enjoy it by walking more than 15km of trails and viewing its rare bird species and plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith all eyes on their landmark conservation goals, Seychelles is gearing up to show how such a small nation can become an example for the many other insular countries facing the effects of climate change. Hopefully, it's not too late.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot-2"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-16T13:24:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Africa's global biodiversity hotspot","headlineShort":"The island nation that saved its ocean","image":["p0bv9kqs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-7.0686517","longitude":"46.6774327","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bv9kqs"],"relatedStories":["future\u002Farticle\u002F20200803-the-deal-that-saved-seychelles-troubled-waters","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-the-hidden-legacy-of-the-seychelles-island-cuisine"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As tourism has impacted parts of Seychelles' environment, the island nation now aims to protect its 72 low-lying coralline \"Outer Islands\" from development before it's too late.","summaryShort":"It's known as a global hotspot for biodiversity","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:25:12.938292Z","entity":"article","guid":"b8ae7f54-dbe5-43b9-816d-4b65e982076c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:25:12.938292Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fseychelles"],"destinationStat":"africa_seychelles","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","_id":"624ec67b1f4b7b52c725eb87","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of the worst disasters in British maritime history, the wrecking of HMS Association led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur boat was only half a dozen miles out of St Mary's, the main island in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitislesofscilly.com\u002F\"\u003EIsles of Scilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but the sea had become a different beast entirely. The waters that lulled against the harbour walls were long gone, and as we arced around the Western Rocks – a notorious cordon of razor-sharp skerries at the very south-westerly reaches of England – the swell surged. Waves slapped against the bow as the boat keeled to and fro. The water was the colour of midnight, and I peered into the darkness for a sign of the HMS Association, one of 1,000 shipwrecks that lie splintering into the seabed around Scilly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETwo parallel reefs, much of which is submerged at high water, the Western Rocks posed a formidable threat to sailors bound for safe harbour in Tresco or St Mary's. And the names that each cluster of jagged granite has been given over the years – Inner Rags, Tearing Ledge – hint at the devastation wrought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is doubtful if any collection of rocks in the whole of the British Isles has a worse reputation,\" said Richard Larn OBE, president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshipwreckconference.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Maritime Archaeological & Shipwreck Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodreads.com\u002Fbook\u002Fshow\u002F51039678-sea-of-storms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESea of Storms: Shipwrecks of Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"This immense area of hidden danger has been the setting for the worst of the many wreck disasters on Scilly.\" None, though, have been more tragic, nor played a more significant role in history, than the sinking of the Association in the early years of the 18th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA 90-gun, second-rate English warship, HMS Association was the flagship of Sir Cloudesley Shovell, who had worked his way up from lowly cabin boy to become Admiral of the Fleet in 1705. Shovell had distinguished himself in the Nine Years' War and in early skirmishes of the War of the Spanish Succession, but after a summer spent (unsuccessfully) laying siege to the French port of Toulon, he set sail for home, departing from Gibraltar for England in late September 1707.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Peninnis lighthouse on St Mary's, Isles of Scilly","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt around 20:00 on 22 October 1707, believing they were off the coast of Brittany and heading into the English Channel, the fleet ploughed on through the darkness and straight into the Western Rocks. The Association, under the command of Captain Edward Loades, struck the Outer Gilstone rock and sank within two minutes. Three other ships – the Eagle, the Romney and the Firebrand – were also wrecked. \"The Weather being very hazy and rainy and Night coming on dark…some of them [were] upon the Rocks to the Westward of Scilly before they were aware. Of the Association not a Man was sav'd,\" reported the Daily Courant, Britain's first daily newspaper, at the time. Some 1,450 men were lost across the four ships, with only 24 survivors between them. It remains one of the worst disasters in British maritime history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It is doubtful if any collection of rocks in the whole of the British Isles has a worse reputation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESo how did the finest seamen of his age – as famous in his day as Lord Nelson was in his, according to Larn – get so completely, and catastrophically, lost? Foul weather didn't help, nor did the low-lying nature of the Scillies and their fringing reefs, which blend into the water's surface at night and in poor visibility. Analysis of the log books from the ships that did make it back to London also revealed the fleet's officers were using charts that misplaced the Isles of Scilly eight nautical miles to the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll these issues were compounded by the real problem – that in the early 18th Century, there was no accurate way of determining a ship's exact longitude (its east–west position) at sea. Sailors used a process called \"dead reckoning\", measuring speed, direction and distance to estimate their location. But it was an educated guess at best. Shovell and his officers knew they were aligned with the English Channel but could never have known which side of the Scillies they were.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201109-scilly-britains-mediterranean-like-isles-steeped-in-myth\"\u003EBritain’s Mediterranean-like isles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that birthed a nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210523-lundy-the-tiny-isle-with-a-wild-lawless-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny isle with a wild, lawless past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELosing the Admiral of the Fleet and so many men alongside him, \"stirred public opinion [and] was quoted as an illustration of the urgent need of a means to find longitude at sea,\" wrote curator Lieutenant-Commander David Waters in the catalogue for 4 Steps to Longitude, an exhibition at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Fnational-maritime-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Maritime Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 1962. Larn goes a step further, believing that parliament introduced the Longitude Act of 1714 as a direct result of the disaster. The act offered a reward – the Longitude Prize – of £20,000 to whoever could produce a solution that was \"practicable and useful at sea\". Sir Isaac Newton and Edmond Halley (of comet fame) set their minds to the task, but the problem was eventually solved by a carpenter-turned-clockmaker from Yorkshire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt took John Harrison 25 years and four attempts, but in 1759 he invented a marine chronometer that allowed a ship to calculate its longitude by comparing the difference in local time at sea with the time in Greenwich. His prize-winning pocket watch, known as H4, overcame the challenging conditions on board – the issues of motion and variation in temperature – and offered the stability required.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"H4 works in principle just like any other mechanical watch,\" explained Emily Akkermans, curator of time at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal Observatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Greenwich, London. \"But the difference is the level of precision [Harrison] achieved by using a 'high energy' balance that would beat faster than the smaller and lighter ones found in traditional watches.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"H4 maritime timekeeper pocket watch by John Harrison","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tresco.co.uk\u002Fthe-island\u002Fvalhalla-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIn a four-month test voyage from Portsmouth to Jamaica, H4 was found to be just 1 minute and 54 seconds out. And yet the Longitude Board refused to fully recognise Harrison's achievement and he never received the full amount of prize money he was owed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Association, meanwhile, still lay scattered beneath the Outer Gilstone, as she would for another 200 years. In 1963, Larn, then a Chief Petty Officer First Class in the Royal Navy, initiated the search for the wreck when he approached an admiral to ask if he could borrow a minesweeper. It took Larn and a team of divers from the Naval Air Command Sub Aqua Club (NACSAC) three years to find the Association, but on 4 July 1967 they discovered a bronze cannon and gold coins on the Gilstone Ledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn just six weeks, they raised several French cannons from the seabed – trophies from the War of the Spanish Succession (one of which they donated to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tresco.co.uk\u002Fthe-island\u002Fvalhalla-museum\"\u003EValhalla Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Tresco) – along with gold and silver coins, pewter plates and a phenomenal assortment of artefacts, from buckles and buttons to candlesticks and combs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWord quickly got out, though, and amateur salvagers descended on the Scillies. \"Anybody with a diving cylinder and a bedroll turned up here,\" Larn told me. \"There was nothing to stop anybody from looting the wreck of the Association after we left, and that's exactly what happened. Coins were so plentiful that people were paying for pints in the pub with them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo official record was ever made of what was hauled out of the sea, and within months the findings were dispersed across the globe. A silver plate inscribed with Sir Cloudesley Shovell's coat of arms was sold to Rochester Town Hall where the admiral had served as local MP; artefacts from the wreck now decorate a pub in Penzance; and fragments of the ship's bell were auctioned off to private collectors in the United States.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stone memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell at Porthellick Cove","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"What happened on the Association was a national disgrace,\" said Larn, who was moved to petition his local MP to consider a bill to protect historic wrecks – the Mary Rose had recently been discovered in the Solent and Larn feared her treasures would go the same way if nothing was done. The Protection of Wrecks Act was passed in 1973, a second act of parliament, more than 250 years after the first, which safeguarded wrecks from unauthorised interference. There are currently 24 protected wrecks in UK waters, three of which lie off the Scillies; the Association, whose wreck site still holds scores of iron cannon, is one of them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile visitors can't access the wreck site itself, they can see some of the items that have been salvaged from the Association at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iosmuseum.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsles of Scilly Museum's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shipwreck collection, which includes a cannon from the ship and what is believed to be Sir Cloudesley Shovel's crumpled \"po\" (or potty).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe museum was forced to close in June 2019 when its historical home was deemed unsafe, and the collection is currently spread across the Town Hall on St Mary's and in interim pop-up exhibitions on the off-islands of St Martin's, Tresco, Bryher and St Agnes – in hotels, shops, community halls and even an old telephone box. \"We're trying to reconnect object to place, and to keep the museum alive while we fundraise for a new home,\" said Kate Hale, the museum's curator, of her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iosmuseum.org\u002Fmuseum-on-the-move\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum on the Move project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Hale had been in the job for just two months when the museum closed overnight; lockdown was in full swing, so Covid restrictions meant she had to work on her own, in an unlit basement, wrapping up 10,000 objects from the museum's archive by torchlight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What happened on the Association was a national disgrace","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVisitors can also experience the wreck via the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=uk.co.iosmuseumcompanions.ioscompanion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWalking Companion app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also created by Hale and her team and developed as part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coastaltimetripping.com\u002Fisles-of-scilly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoastal Timetripping\u003C\u002Fa\u003E project. The mobile app automatically activates when you're within range of a nearby shipwreck and allows visitors to explore, via augmented reality, the remains of the Association.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDown among the yellow-horned poppies on Porth Hellick, for example, seven miles from the site of the wreck, a memorial marks the spot where Sir Cloudesley Shovell's body was \"flung on the shoar and buried with others in the sands\". He had been washed up here with his two stepsons, his captain and his pet greyhound, Mumper. Stroll around the cove and the app will pop with paintings of the Association, images from the Isle of Scilly Museum's archives and 3D models of the ship's bell. A local theatre group reads out a poem depicting events on the night of 22 October 1707 by the Scillonian poet Robert Maybee, and Cornish folk group Dalla sing a haunting ballad covering the legend of the wreck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd out past the cove, beyond the island of St Mary's, the ocean continues to rush and rage around the Western Rocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Boats on the shore of St Mary's, Isles of Scilly","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-30T05:04:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The British shipwreck that changed the world","headlineShort":"The shipwreck that changed the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Flowers and ocean from St Marys, Isles of Scilly","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.9250","longitude":"6.2987","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Flowers and ocean from St Marys, Isles of Scilly","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the worst disasters in British maritime history, the wrecking of HMS Association led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude.","summaryShort":"It led to two acts of parliament and the establishment of longitude","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-29T22:05:03.797779Z","entity":"article","guid":"7cd56522-04db-4db4-a012-fd05695df5f1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:45.229465Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","_id":"624ec67a1f4b7b68494b9f1b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While Covid-19 might be a major concern for the Antarctic tourist industry, it could be good news for the region itself.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-12T22:09:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What will happen to the 7th continent?","headlineShort":"What will happen to the 7th continent?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-65.9690075","longitude":"-53.0801546","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Covid-19 might be a major concern for the Antarctic tourist industry, it could be good news for the region itself.","summaryShort":"“We need to think about the future we want to see”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:56:13.331955Z","entity":"article","guid":"00837e29-d7ef-467d-abea-9a3fe08f1ca4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:16:43.835608Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","_id":"624ec6791f4b7b4f6444c7e2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EScattered across the Arabian Sea, south-west of Sri Lanka and India, the Maldives present the face of a dreamy, tropical idyll to travellers from all over the world, who fly in to savour picture-perfect coral atolls fringed with white sand, luxurious resorts and world-class water sport.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps no other nation faces an environmental threat quite like the Maldives. Its luxury beach resorts may be world-famous, but with more than 80% of its scattered 1,200 islands less than 1m above sea level, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fsouth_asia\u002F3930765.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erising oceans threaten its very existence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We are one of the most vulnerable countries on Earth and therefore need to adapt,” said the country’s vice president Mohammed Waheed Hassan in a 2010 World Bank \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Ffeature\u002F2010\u002F04\u002F06\u002Fclimate-change-in-the-maldives\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that warned how, at current predicted rates of sea level rise, all of the Maldives’ around 200 natural inhabited islands could be submerged by 2100.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Maldivians are determined to fight back to preserve their existence. Back in 2008, then-president Mohamed Nasheed made global headlines by announcing a plan to buy land elsewhere so his citizens could relocate should islands become submerged. That plan gave way to considering whether it might be best to work with the sea rather than against it, by building floating urban developments – as has been done \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-30412913\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein cities like Amsterdam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, the Maldives turned to a different form of geo-engineering: creating a 21st-Century city, dubbed the “City of Hope”, on a new, artificial island christened Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPre-Covid, curious tourists could visit the new island city as it takes shape around 8km from the capital city of Malé by hopping on a 20-minute bus from the airport over the bridge. Yet, few who come to the Maldives on short luxurious breaks will think about the pragmatic social issues Hulhumalé aims to solve. With more than 500,000 inhabitants scattered across the archipelago, delivery of services is one resource-draining logistical nightmare. Lack of job opportunities is another, driving youth unemployment to more than 15%, according to a 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldbank.org\u002Fen\u002Fcountry\u002Fmaldives\u002Foverview\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the World Bank.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as the long-term threat of submersion, increasing coastal erosion also threatens the 70% of infrastructure – homes, other buildings and utilities – located within 100m of present shorelines. There’s also worries over encroaching salty seas tainting precious fresh water sources, plus risks posed by unpredictable natural disasters, like the 2004 tsunami that killed more than 100 people in the Maldives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“After the 2004 tsunami, a programme for enhancing resiliency through safer islands was introduced,” explained Areen Ahmed, director of business development at the Housing Development Corporation (HDC) that oversees the City of Hope. “Hulhumalé is being developed through careful considerations of climate change in its architecture and communities.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOngoing land reclamation using millions of cubic metres of sand pumped from the seabed has raised the new island more than 2m above sea level, while the island’s growing City of Hope is seen as a vital new settlement to relieve the over-crowding that currently blights Malé, where more than 130,000 people cram into 1 square mile (just more than 2.5 sq km).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200628-is-the-future-of-travel-underwater\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs the future of travel underwater?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180905-nanjings-salted-duck-a-dish-fit-for-royaltyhttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150526-a-maldives-you-can-actually-afford\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Maldives you can actually afford\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200614-ascension-island-the-island-with-a-key-to-our-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island with a key to our future\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth,” said Kate Philpot, who worked as a science officer in the Maldives, researching reef fish for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.korallionlab.com\u002Fkorallion-lab\u002Fabout-us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorallion Lab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E marine station, before becoming senior ecologist at UK-based consultancy Ecology By Design.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhase one of Hulhumalé’s land reclamation, consisting of 188 hectares, began in 1997 and was completed in 2002. Two years later, the island celebrated the arrival of its first 1,000 residents. Further reclamation of 244 hectares of land was completed in 2015, and by late 2019, more than 50,000 people were living on Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut ambitions for Hulhumalé are far greater, eventually envisioned as hosting up to 240,000 people in well-designed style by the mid-2020s. This vision includes a diverse mix of quality housing, new employment opportunities plus open recreational space three times larger per person than Malé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Ahmed, in contrast to the unplanned and over-crowded nature of Malé, Hulhumalé was designed with many green urban planning initiatives. “Buildings are oriented north-south to reduce heat gain and improve thermal comfort. Streets are designed to optimise wind penetration, reducing reliance on air conditioning. And schools, mosques and neighbourhood parks are within 100-200m walking distance of residential developments, reducing car use.” Electric buses and bicycle lanes are also part of the new city landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVaried housing needs are also being catered for. “Hulhumalé comprises diverse housing projects: mid-range, luxury and social housing,” said Ahmed. “Sixty percent of mid-range housing units have to be sold under the pricing ceiling set by HDC.” Affordable social housing is available for specific groups, including single women and those affected by displacement and disasters. There has been detailed consultation to ensure housing and the wider built environment is accessible to those with disabilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEnviable digital infrastructure proposals complement green initiatives and social planning, said Ahmed, who describes Hulhumalé as “Asia’s first 100% gigabit-enabled smart city”, with fast digital access for residents based on widespread optical fibre technology known as GPON (Gigabit Passive Optical Networks).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The ultimate benefit of building a Smart City from scratch is that Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives,” said Professor Hassan Ugail, a Maldivian computer scientist who is helping to make Hulhumalé a smart city, alongside his work as director of the Centre for Visual Computing at the UK’s University of Bradford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Malé is one of the most densely populated cities on Earth","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHulhumalé aims to tick boxes with regard to sustainable urban development too, including drawing around a third of its energy from solar power and harvesting rainwater to boost water security. Yet isn’t the very act of building an artificial island something harmful to the environment – especially in a place famed for coral reefs and pristine white-sand shores?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Belgian company Dredging International completed the 244-hectare expansion of the island in 2015, the operation required sucking around six million cubic metres of sand from the surrounding seabed to then transport and pump onto Hulhumalé.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Land reclamation work is particularly problematic,” said Dr Holly East from Northumbria University’s Department of Geography and Environmental Sciences, an expert in coral reef islands with experience conducting research in the Maldives. “Not only can it destroy coral reefs, but [it] also creates vast plumes of sediment that travel to other reef platforms. Sediment smother[s] corals and blocks out sunlight, impacting their capacity to feed, grow and reproduce.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut with its steadily growing population, land reclamation has become a simple fact of Maldivian life, with existing coral reef providing the obvious foundation. “Efforts have been made to reduce impacts of the development of Hulhumalé, including translocation of some corals,” said Philpot. “However, it can take a long time for them to become established elsewhere – and there is often a poor success rate.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet with her years of experience in the Maldives, Philpot is well aware of competing demands. Tourists may come and go, but local people need land to live on and jobs. She also makes the rather ironic observation that Hulhumalé is rising in an area that has already, to some extent, been spoiled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Construction is likely to be less damaging than elsewhere in the Maldives,” she said. “It seems preferable to develop an area with relatively high levels of boat traffic and pollution compared to anywhere else within the Maldives that remains relatively unspoilt.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn this view, she is backed by the World Bank’s 2020 report, which notes “the Greater Malé Region, particularly in Hulhumalé, do not have significant natural habitats – and the coral reefs are mostly degraded”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWaste disposal remains a key issue – both in terms of construction waste for Hulhumalé, as well as waste from its growing city of inhabitants. “Much of the waste has been transported and stored in the purpose-built island of Thilafushi,” explained Philpot wryly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Hulhumalé will be seen as a city of resilience – built by the people of Maldives for the people of the Maldives","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaldivian authorities counter the idea that this is basically a tropical rubbish dump, albeit rather vaguely. “All measures to minimise the impact of construction on the environment are monitored by the Environment Protection Agency (EPA) of the Maldives,” Ahmed told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Hulhumalé is being fashioned primarily to improve the lives of Maldivians, its City of Hope also aims to be a beacon for a new cohort of tourists interested in more than just lying in a beachside resort bubble. A 2018 World Finance \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldfinance.com\u002Finfrastructure-investment\u002Fhousing-development-corporation-bringing-city-of-hulhumale-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, highlights the potential for medical and sports tourism tied into upcoming projects such as the Maldives’ first multi-specialist hospital, water theme park and yacht marina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhilpot also hopes the dreams driving Hulhumalé will extend to a greater appreciation of their surroundings by the next generation of Maldivians. “I taught coral ecology classes to Maldivian children between [the ages of] 14 and 17 – and more than half my class had never put their faces in the water with a snorkel on,” she said. “Their amazement at what they saw was so exciting – but also sad, that they lived so close to the sea but never got the opportunity to experience being underwater. Perhaps with more direct education aimed at marine biology there would be more interest in preserving and protecting the marine ecosystem amongst the young.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERather than just building a City of Hope, in other words, the people of the Maldives are taking an island-building path into the future that could make the Maldives a Nation of Hope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-world-of-tomorrow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World of Tomorrow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that visits ingenious communities around the world that are adapting to environmental change or who are finding new ways to live sustainably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_BLANK翿\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-10T23:02:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A new island of hope rising from the Indian Ocean","headlineShort":"The nation being swallowed by the sea","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The modern island of Hulhumale is taking shape 8km off the north-east coast of Malé island in the Maldives in direct response to the threat posed by inexorably rising sea levels.","summaryShort":"One of the most vulnerable countries on Earth has had to adapt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:54:51.221398Z","entity":"article","guid":"844ca032-8f8f-43b8-9da0-0d25a0a21e5d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:15:28.561903Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","_id":"624ec67d1f4b7b549670e2e9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-johanson"],"bodyIntro":"Not only is Deception Island littered with lore and history, it's also one of the only places on the planet where ships can sail directly into the centre of a submerged caldera.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first deception happened as I sailed down the blustery Bransfield Strait and saw an icy outcrop rising out of the steely-blue waters. Deception Island initially had fooled me into thinking it was just like all the other South Shetland Islands off the northern coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen, like some foggy austral mirage, a small 500m-wide slit appeared in the cliffs of its south-eastern corner, and my ship, the Magellan Explorer, slipped through. The vessel squeezed into a rocky gap known as Neptune's Bellows and emerged in the peaceful waters of an interior horseshoe-shaped harbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat harbour, known as Port Foster, proved to be the next deception – for it wasn't actually a harbour at all. At least, not really. Deception Island is an alias for an active volcano, one of just two in Antarctica, and Port Foster is its flooded caldera, formed by a violent eruption some 10,000 years ago. True to its name, which was earned for these very reasons, nothing on Deception Island is quite what it seems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI took a bumpy Zodiac ride through the caldera out to Whalers Bay, a sheltered cove with a black-sand beach that released magma-heated steam into the frigid air (when I dug a small hole in the sand, I found water as warm as afternoon tea). That scalding beach had a look of abandonment, with rusted ruins and scattered debris, as if something grave had happened there, as if it had stories to tell. In a continent largely bereft of manmade artefacts, the beach was, quite plainly, littered with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswj3s"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Norwegian Aktieselskabet Hektor whaling station, Deception Island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDeception Island soon revealed itself to be something of a time capsule of Antarctica's two centuries of human history, holding tales of explorers and whalers, scientists and dreamers. Like a polar Pompeii, it was virtually abandoned overnight with buildings now frozen in a bygone era. Other relics attest to its days as a processing centre for Antarctic wildlife. But in one of the greatest deceptions of all, this island once known for the pillaging of animals was now, in 2022, absolutely teeming with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, that's exactly how it was when humans first sailed this way. Nigel Milius, a polar historian with expedition cruise company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antarctica21.com\u002F\"\u003EAntarctica21\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me as we toured Whalers Bay together that sealers were some of the first to chart the South Shetland Islands following their discovery in 1819 by the English captain William Smith. The sealers were later eclipsed by whalers, who arrived in floating factory ships.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that changed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat will happen to the seventh continent?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation being swallowed by the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1912, Norwegians built Antarctica's only land-based commercial whaling station on Deception Island, which operated here until 1931 when some species, including the blue whale, were hunted almost to extinction. There could have been up to 500 people living on Deception Island at the height of summer operations, Milius said, though only a skeleton crew would brave the long, lightless winters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we walked past the rusty remains of hulking old digesters used for whale blubber, Milius shared an account of a particularly lively New Year's celebration in 1928 that seemed to typify life in Antarctica at the time. Two men – lonely, laddish and hopped up on alcohol – climbed atop a dead sperm whale that had been swelling with gas due to the heat of the beach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the whalers thrust his long knife into this veritable whale-balloon, which promptly exploded, hurling both men into the harbour, where they had to be rescued by some of the few sober observers,\" Milius said, reading a piece of paper with a quote from the visiting Australian military pilot Hubert Wilkins. \"Meanwhile, two other whalers had decided to ignite an explosives barge that was moored to the beach [which] contained 65 tonnes of black powder and other combustibles.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhzq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Chinstrap penguin colony on Deception Island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bas.ac.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fabout-bas\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish-research-stations-and-refuges\u002Fdeception-island-b\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOf course, the biggest explosions on Deception Island have been all natural. The first historical records of volcanic eruptions here were between 1839 and 1842, though it was the eruption in 1967 that proved the most destructive. That blast buried Chile's Aguirre Cerda research base in ash and rock just north of Whalers Bay at Pendulum Cove; Milius said it's rumoured to have the best wine cellar in Antarctica (though the well-aged bottles are now buried in mud and ash). The 1967 eruption also damaged a British base (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bas.ac.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fabout-bas\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish-research-stations-and-refuges\u002Fdeception-island-b\u002F\"\u003EStation B\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) that the Royal Navy established in 1944 on the site of the abandoned whaling station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Chileans escaped this dramatic spectacle unharmed, but never returned. The Brits did, only to face a second eruption two years later. In a panic, they climbed the rocky outer edge of the caldera, attempting to flee to the other side. \"By the time they got up onto the ridge, there was quite the fireworks display,\" Milius said. \"So, they went back down to the base only to find out that some of it had actually moved a bit down the beach toward the water's edge, which must have been a little startling to say the least.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe shock of that experience saw the Brits follow Chile's lead and abandon their post here in 1969, which remains in situ to this day, sprawled across a 650m stretch of Whalers Bay. Mud flows from the 1969 eruption destroyed many buildings and engulfed the whalers' graveyard, which held 35 tombs. Yet, other buildings remain. The old accommodation block, Biscoe House, sits back from the beach with a slump in its middle, pockets of snow now gathering next to old desks and rusted ovens. Nearby are rotting whaleboats, timber barrels and a scattering of sun-bleached whalebones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also an old aircraft hangar on the far end of the beach, which recalls the island's aeronautical history. In 1928, the Australian pilot Wilkins took off in a Lockheed Vega 1 monoplane from a beach airstrip here on the first powered flight in Antarctica, which was funded by American publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhz4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Biscoe House, Deception Island, Antarctica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fprotocol.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOf course, all of these structures may disappear one day when the volcano erupts again (both Spain and Argentina operate summer-only stations to monitor seismic activity). Yet, the question remains: should they even be here?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"An interesting debate to me,\" Milius shared, \"is what's history, what's rubbish and who decides?\" The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fprotocol.html\"\u003EMadrid Protocol of 1991\u003C\u002Fa\u003E implored all nations in the Antarctic Treaty (which regulates international relations here) to tidy up their debris left over two centuries. Clean-up operations that year did remove fuel, batteries and other hazardous waste, but there seems to be a collective understanding among the nations that have planted flags on Deception Island that the rest is not rubbish but rather a museum-worthy set piece, a reminder of the Antarctic story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat afternoon, the Magellan Explorer squeezed back through Neptune's Bellows and skirted east to Baily Head, a small promontory on the outer edge of Deception Island where the swells are normally so large that a boat landing is impossible. It's here, more than anywhere else, that you can see the future of life on Deception Island, as well as the lasting legacy of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ats.aq\u002Fe\u002Fantarctictreaty.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Antarctic Treaty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which protects the seventh continent as a place for peace and science.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"South Shetlands is the heart of the chinstrap population throughout the globe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBaily Head is home to anywhere from 50,000 to 100,000 breeding pairs of chinstrap penguins, explained Milius' wife, Antarctic naturalist Wendy Hare, as birds with thin black neck bands waddled down \"highways\" linking a vast black-sand beach with rocky interior nesting sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"South Shetlands is the heart of the chinstrap population throughout the globe because this is a place that's very rich in krill at the time of the year when the chinstraps need to breed, which is the very brief Antarctic summer,\" Hare explained. \"In Deception, they can use whole hillsides because it's relatively snow-free.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bswhyt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rocky cliffs at Deception Island, Antarctica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBaily Head is now the largest penguin colony on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula. It's a place where birds in dinner jackets belly-surf out of sub-zero waters and waddle up perilous slopes tinted green with algae. \"It's just an awesome sight with so many birds as far as the eye can see,\" Hare enthused. \"There are chinstrap penguins to the heavens, to where the landscape disappears into the sky.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis massive concentration lures other birds, too, including snowy sheathbills and brown skuas who prowl the penguin colony in search of unattended eggs. The cliff edges nearby also hide Cape and storm petrels, while the beach holds several types of pinnipeds, including doe-eyed Weddell seals and big-nosed elephant seals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a vision of Antarctica far removed from the one found back at Whalers Bay, the site of so much pillaging. And yet, it feels rather fitting. It helps complete a whirlwind tour through the annals of Earth's final frontier – a story that this strange speck of fire and ice tells so well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-13T13:58:50.555Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Antarctica's volatile 'Deception Island'","headlineShort":"The Antarctic ghost town left in ruins","image":["p0bswj3v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-62.94093","longitude":"-60.555375","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b198e3b700a"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bswj3s"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201011-what-will-happen-to-the-7th-continent","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not only is Deception Island littered with lore and history, it's also one of the only places on the planet where ships can sail directly into the centre of a submerged caldera.","summaryShort":"Nothing on Deception Island is quite what it seems","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-13T13:59:31.415394Z","entity":"article","guid":"6afa8be0-5a0c-4626-933c-3681b3561842","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-15T13:14:24.929372Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fantarctica"],"destinationStat":"antarctica","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490}},"tags":{"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"624ec6e91f4b7b68593c73f6","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & Drink","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"0b90e0cf-5bc4-45a8-9361-98ed75aae950","id":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:20:26.485271Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309488},"tag\u002F20150312-video":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002F20150312-video","_id":"624ec6d21f4b7b54945476db","assetImage":null,"description":"Watch BBC Travel’s latest video stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Video","creationDateTime":"2015-08-18T10:58:15.738806Z","entity":"tag","guid":"482df50a-1563-4b1c-a0f5-a5c1d40e6be3","id":"tag\u002F20150312-video","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:56:24.243917Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002F20150312-video","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"tag\u002Fbiking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fbiking","_id":"624ec6d31f4b7b4f4b255163","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest biking stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Biking","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d8d9bd7a-e952-4956-97fc-169094bd6390","id":"tag\u002Fbiking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:03:30.666005Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fbiking","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"tag\u002Fbeaches":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fbeaches","_id":"624ec6d21f4b7b70455f8824","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about beaches from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Beaches","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"461c5316-0d63-4789-9823-da78f4fd7f70","id":"tag\u002Fbeaches","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:02:06.103539Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fbeaches","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309475},"tag\u002Fisland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fisland","_id":"624ec6d51f4b7b52c725ec41","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Island","creationDateTime":"2015-08-31T16:14:05.26893Z","entity":"tag","guid":"55ef39cc-8551-44c9-bea9-ad5bf9e5f43a","id":"tag\u002Fisland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:28:56.76694Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fisland","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"tag\u002Fsustainability":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsustainability","_id":"624ec6ec1f4b7b684c257f9f","assetImage":null,"description":"BBC Travel’s latest sustainability stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Sustainability","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T11:15:28.33822Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8c7980e9-39cc-4b2b-a9ae-fac193a4b669","id":"tag\u002Fsustainability","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:53:54.010563Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fsustainability","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"tag\u002Fwellness":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fwellness","_id":"624ec6d91f4b7b6b6e2592b3","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC's latest wellness stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Wellness","creationDateTime":"2020-02-28T21:13:24.535072Z","entity":"tag","guid":"13ba4b04-b3a2-4dee-8a3d-49c39c8fa6f4","id":"tag\u002Fwellness","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T00:00:47.733443Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fwellness","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309489},"tag\u002Fadventure":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fadventure","_id":"624ec6d21f4b7b4f71252a91","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest adventure stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Adventure","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"51f7abb7-9fb2-4d30-83a6-0e231312a619","id":"tag\u002Fadventure","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:57:30.950349Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fadventure","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"tag\u002Fgeology":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fgeology","_id":"624ec6d51f4b7b4f75438a6e","assetImage":null,"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Geology","creationDateTime":"2015-08-31T16:11:39.418685Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ef58f1a0-fa6d-4c05-b70f-23150a01a386","id":"tag\u002Fgeology","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:22:44.125891Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fgeology","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309477},"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","_id":"624ec6d71f4b7b685d6ba7b6","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest nature and outdoors stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Nature & Outdoors","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"87d24744-7f21-4467-b7db-d03e1ac9c1ca","id":"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:38:44.629616Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"tag\u002Froad-trips":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Froad-trips","_id":"624ec6d71f4b7b4f75438a75","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest road trip stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Road Trips","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"391c2dab-0583-4676-9c21-8c9528a7d495","id":"tag\u002Froad-trips","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:47:18.573209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Froad-trips","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","_id":"624ec6d71f4b7b54945476e9","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories about the world's amazing natural wonders","linkUrl":"","name":"Natural Wonders","creationDateTime":"2019-01-16T18:57:30.321984Z","entity":"tag","guid":"f3b01bba-40ea-4a44-8bfc-02ae0ac35280","id":"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:38:30.131547Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"tag\u002Fremote":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fremote","_id":"624ec6eb1f4b7b684c257f90","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about remote places around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Remote Places","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:08:29.432011Z","entity":"tag","guid":"e3f72d36-8958-4f49-9420-8264929e319c","id":"tag\u002Fremote","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:46:25.779469Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fremote","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"tag\u002Fnational-parks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnational-parks","_id":"624ec6d71f4b7b353b6a8874","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about national parks around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"National Parks","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"c57f1aea-d9a2-4da9-a890-c4b227e62443","id":"tag\u002Fnational-parks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:38:25.587916Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fnational-parks","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309481},"tag\u002Fhistory":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhistory","_id":"624ec6e71f4b7b68593c73e3","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"History","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6832b6dc-e349-43ec-af00-31e2e8025190","id":"tag\u002Fhistory","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:25:17.967338Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhistory","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490},"tag\u002Fcovid-19":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcovid-19","_id":"624ec6d41f4b7b4f71252a97","assetImage":[],"description":"Evidence-based analysis and myth-busting stories about the new coronavirus","linkUrl":"","name":"Covid-19","creationDateTime":"2020-03-12T18:50:22.798892Z","entity":"tag","guid":"e7773612-18e8-4b40-a9ea-9cafc055663b","id":"tag\u002Fcovid-19","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:11:24.537219Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcovid-19","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"tag\u002Fdiving":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fdiving","_id":"624ec6d41f4b7b68516efb41","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest diving stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Diving","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"e6ae592c-98ad-47f9-b11d-6af456b86653","id":"tag\u002Fdiving","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:14:44.671632Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fdiving","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309483},"tag\u002Ffestivals":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffestivals","_id":"624ec6d51f4b7b6b7063ecdd","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about unique festivals around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Festivals","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"58b83fcb-f6ec-4b17-8f04-78f71fef3164","id":"tag\u002Ffestivals","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:19:21.021097Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffestivals","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","_id":"624ec6e91f4b7b4fc9065f2b","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories on cultural traditions from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Cultural Traditions","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:28:57.916527Z","entity":"tag","guid":"62f2a0d9-399c-43a9-9833-3a4b45eb27dd","id":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:12:28.832907Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309486}},"navigations":{"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:navigation:travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","_id":"624ec6e31f4b7b518d02daa0","item":[{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Culture","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculture-identity","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-0"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Food","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-hospitality","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-1"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Discovery","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fdiscovery","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-2"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Adventure","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fadventure-experience","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-3"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Destinations","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fdestinations","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-4"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Collections","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002F","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-5"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"About us","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F1JY27sX","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-6"},{"lineOne":"NEW!","lineTwo":"50 Reasons to Love the World","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zDE6sk","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-7"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Untold America","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220425054944\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3jXnK59","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-8"}],"primaryVertical":"travel","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:02:23.756001Z","entity":"navigation","guid":"38bbc1f1-d8a5-4713-bfe2-6aaf1b656958","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:09.071781Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309454}},"partners":{},"modules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","_id":"624ec6e21f4b7b52c95b97e9","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hero","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hero","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:37:45.179269Z","entity":"module","guid":"79a0523a-7e5c-4be9-9a53-3f7e411d128a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-24T19:23:10.070867Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309473},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","_id":"624ec6d01f4b7b4f5a1d13aa","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index-picks","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220421-la-digue-the-seychelles-tropical-biking-paradise","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220419-australias-trail-where-life-began","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220418-frances-130km-mimosa-route","schema":"article"}],"title":"Editor's Picks","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:38:42.775995Z","entity":"module","guid":"1d5e8e1e-8d0f-4691-a1b6-54bad73c98ce","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-24T19:22:08.436253Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","_id":"624ec6d11f4b7b6b6d5a424c","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"full-width-image","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","schema":"external"}],"title":"Full Width Image","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:34:40.11256Z","entity":"module","guid":"21620296-034a-40fe-8256-d6efcdd7e0bd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:32.215265Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309478},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","_id":"624ec6d11f4b7b3537500739","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hot-topics","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hot Topics","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:33:42.010517Z","entity":"module","guid":"d9a25593-c5ee-497d-8c03-249fa8f88385","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-11T12:35:16.490897Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309479},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","_id":"624ec6e31f4b7b518d02daa2","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"most-popular","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220331-the-worlds-most-agile-countries","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-the-nation-finding-peace-underwater","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-icelands-unsung-herring-girls","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220323-japans-humble-birthplace-of-soy-sauce","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220316-the-healers-who-treat-bad-luck","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-africas-global-biodiversity-hotspot","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220313-antarcticas-volatile-deception-island","schema":"article"}],"title":"Most Recent","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:40:32.013726Z","entity":"module","guid":"8b5e3bec-8106-4431-93f4-864352a65ddd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-08T12:45:12.524981Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309482},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","_id":"624ec6d11f4b7b4f75438a57","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"swimlane","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","schema":"collection"}],"title":"Swimlane","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:31:44.560665Z","entity":"module","guid":"7199c6f8-7f43-419a-b9d9-a3ab5e980a7a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:11:26.499351Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309491}},"indexModules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","_id":"624ec6e61f4b7b4fc9065f1b","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index","primaryVertical":"travel","title":"Index","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:36:37.38773Z","entity":"module","guid":"bf059652-7316-4b2b-b549-097e3ba7648b","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:52.703389Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309473,"subModules":["travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane"]}},"aroundTheBBC":{},"weathers":{},"destinations":{},"videos":{"p0c1hhk7":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:videopid:p0c1hhk7","_id":"62599e191f4b7b7055285a75","advertisingAllowed":"commercial","duration":384,"embeddableOffSite":true,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"","synopsisShort":"Plus, it has the Seychelles' most beautiful beach","thumbnail":[],"title":"The island where bikes outnumber cars","vpid":"p0c1hhkf","warningShort":"","entity":"videopid","id":"p0c1hhk7","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309474},"p0bwp9s3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:videopid:p0bwp9s3","_id":"624ec5721f4b7b352d4e6f53","advertisingAllowed":"commercial","duration":128,"embeddableOffSite":true,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"","synopsisShort":"It was once the leading lemon growing region in all of Europe","thumbnail":[],"title":"The French town celebrating a lemon","vpid":"p0bwp9s7","warningShort":"","entity":"videopid","id":"p0bwp9s3","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309485},"p0bv93hr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:videopid:p0bv93hr","_id":"624ec59d1f4b7b5196745c48","advertisingAllowed":"commercial","duration":389,"embeddableOffSite":true,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"","synopsisShort":"It's known as a global hotspot for biodiversity","thumbnail":[],"title":"The island nation that saved its ocean","vpid":"p0bv93hy","warningShort":"","entity":"videopid","id":"p0bv93hr","cacheLastUpdated":1650865309490}}},"ads":{},"destinationsAZ":{"azIndexFilter":"Continent"},"collectionsAZ":{"indexFilter":"MOST_RECENT"},"relatedArticlesById":{},"article":{"currentActiveArticle":null,"primaryArticle":null},"loader":{"message":null,"show":false},"location":{"currentLocation":"\u002Ftravel","previousLocation":null,"isFirstRendering":true},"serverRender":true,"hasArticleHero":{"value":false},"visitedCollectionIndex":false,"visitedTagIndex":false,"metaData":{"title":null},"fetchArticleGroupByArticleId":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null,"endpoint":null},"fetchArticleById":{"isFetching":null,"error":null},"fetchTagsByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchCollectionsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchDestinationsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchNavigationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","error":null},"fetchCollectionById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchDestinationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchAroundTheBBCByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchTagById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchWeatherById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchModuleByVertical":{"isFetching":{"site\u002Ftravel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":false},"error":null},"pagination":{"articleInfiniteScroll":{},"collectionArticlesIndex":{},"tagArticlesIndex":{},"verticalArticlesIndex":{},"premiumCollectionArticlesIndex":{},"swimlaneCollectionArticles":{},"destinationArticlesIndex":{}}}</script> <script>window.__ENTITY_ROUTES__ = {"article":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"previewArticle":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fpreview\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"premiumCollection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexColumn":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexSection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"tagArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftag\u002F:id"},"tagsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Ftags"},"verticalArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)"},"collectionsColumnsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"collectionsSectionsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"destinationsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations","entityMapping":"\u002Fdestinations"},"destinationIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations\u002F:destinationId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fdestination-guide\u002F:destinationId"}};</script> <script>window.__PWA_CLIENT_SIDE_ENABLED__=true</script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220412-064043-0138201970b5732dc55c78195f1a95a6f91086a9/static/js/bundle.875dae39.js"></script> <script>window.BBC_GNL_PWA_MAIN();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> (function() { /** CONFIGURATION START **/ var _sf_async_config = window._sf_async_config = (window._sf_async_config || {}); _sf_async_config.uid = '50924'; _sf_async_config.domain = 'bbc.co.uk'; _sf_async_config.flickerControl = false; _sf_async_config.useCanonical = true; _sf_async_config.sections = 'travel'; _sf_async_config.path = '/travel'; _sf_async_config.authors = false; /** CONFIGURATION END **/ function loadChartbeat() { var e = document.createElement('script'); var n = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; e.type = 'text/javascript'; e.async = true; e.src = '//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.chartbeat.com/js/chartbeat.js'; n.parentNode.insertBefore(e, n); } loadChartbeat(); })(); </script> </div> <div id="orb-footer" class="orb-footer" dir="ltr"> <div id="navp-orb-footer-promo"></div><aside role="complementary"><div id="orb-aside" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner" role="navigation" aria-label="BBC"><h2 class="orb-footer-lead">Explore the BBC</h2><div class="orb-footer-primary-links"><ul class="domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></div></div></div></aside><footer role="contentinfo"><div id="orb-contentinfo" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner"><div><ul><li class="orb-footer-terms"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/terms/">Terms of Use</a></li><li class="orb-footer-about"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/aboutthebbc">About the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-privacy"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/privacy/">Privacy Policy</a></li><li class="orb-footer-cookies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/cookies/">Cookies</a></li><li class="orb-footer-accessibility"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li><li class="orb-footer-parental"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/guidance">Parental Guidance</a></li><li class="orb-footer-contact"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/contact">Contact the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-newsletter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcnewsletter">Get Personalised Newsletters</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-ads"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbcglobalnews.com/">Advertise with us</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-adchoices"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.com/usingthebbc/cookies/how-does-the-bbc-use-cookies-for-advertising/">AdChoices / Do Not Sell My Info</a></li></ul><small><em class="orb-hilight">Copyright © 2022 BBC.</em> The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. <span class="orb-footer-links"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://www.bbc.co.uk/editorialguidelines/guidance/feeds-and-links" class="orb-hilight">Read about our approach to external linking.</a></span></small></div></div></div></footer></div><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/redirect.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/performance.js" data-release="3.0.0-1994.af460fe6" data-ux="v4" async=""></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/more-drawer.mjs"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/drawer.js" async=""></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/orbit.mjs" async=""></script><script nomodule="" type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/orbit.js" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">/*<![CDATA[*/ (function() { function loadJs(url) { var script = document.createElement('script'); script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.src = url; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('body')[0].appendChild(script); } window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { loadJs('https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/63f83549aa6178a28a5e2eac6c21fa0b/js/edr.min.js'); } }); })(); /*]]>*/</script> <script type="module">if (window.bbcuser && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined) { bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function (isUK) { if (isUK) { import('https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/ee37a70a2dd13ea2e8a8b8d39579afaa//js/search-suggest.js').then(drawer => { drawer.setupSearchDrawer({ searchboxAppStaticPrefix: 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/ee37a70a2dd13ea2e8a8b8d39579afaa/', variant: 'default', }); }); } }); }</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/navpromo/34f98a4c8573fabed16dc8acea28feb8/js/footerpromo.js" data-base="https://navpromo.api.bbci.co.uk" data-variant="" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">window.COOKIES_STATIC_HOST="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/2e8917a000cbc9051af7ab0a431d1750/cookie-banner/cookie-prompt/"</script><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/2e8917a000cbc9051af7ab0a431d1750/cookie-banner/cookie-banners.bundle.js" async=""></script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk//user-activity-helper/a8196ecdef2d10b40b1afc53b833773a/js/detectview.bundle.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript">"use strict";window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){return e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Failed to load reverb. No event sent")});</script><noscript><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220425054944im_/https://sb.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=17986528&cs_ucfr=0&cv=2.0&cj=1"></noscript> <script type="text/javascript">require.config({ paths: { "mybbc/templates": '//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.11/templates', "mybbc/notifications": '//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.11/js' } }); require(['mybbc/notifications/NotificationsMain', 'idcta/idcta-1'], function (NotificationsMain, idcta) { var loadNotifications = function (isUK) { if (isUK) { window.bbcpage.loadCSS('//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.11/css/main.min.css').then(function() { NotificationsMain.run(idcta, '//web.archive.org/web/20220425054944/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/4.3.11/'); }); } }; window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { loadNotifications(isUK); }); });</script> </body> </html>