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type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/traveller","name":"Travel"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/inspiration","name":"Inspiration"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":3,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/topic/thailand-fxd","name":"Thailand"}}]}</script></div><p class="CpcU1"><span>This was published 1 year ago</span></p><h1 data-testid="headline" itemProp="headline">Forget simple massages, this Thai retreat will set you on fire (literally)</h1></div></div></header><section class="_3OhA4"><div class="_2h56q _2bGxr"><div class="_3J1te _2NJ_s"><h5 class="_3-xPQ"><span class="_3pGt1">By </span><span><span data-testid="byline"><a href="/traveller/by/lee-tulloch-hvevs" title="Articles by Lee Tulloch">Lee Tulloch</a></span></span></h5><div class=""> <span class="_2xetH"><time class="_2_zR-" data-testid="datetime" dateTime="2023-09-26T15:20:32+10:00">September 26, 2023 — 3.20pm</time></span></div></div></div><div class="_2CSKo noPrint"><div class="_1KqZ_ _3Eavl"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>, <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://theage.myfairfax.com.au/channel/4vLxp6nBuWVKEPLaQuUKwA/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.theage.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> to save articles for later.</div><div><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz WUf_a _1pHo1" id="onboardingTooltip" role="tooltip"><h3>Save articles for 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data-testid="body-content"><p>The Thai doctor sets fire to my belly, and I don’t even flinch as the flames dance in the darkened room. There’s a thick paste of herbs between my skin and the fire and it feels warm and comforting.</p><p>The doctor applies and extinguishes the fire five times, gently massaging the herbs into my stomach between each flaming, before I’m treated to a rhythmic full-body massage. Can I come back for more tomorrow?</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Getting fired up with Ya Pao, a traditional Thai therapy." src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/ec51c44c8828a9244d9abd97c9103a05a5374178 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Getting fired up with Ya Pao, a traditional Thai therapy.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>The treatment is called Ya Pao, a traditional Thai therapy for increasing blood flow to the lymphatic and digestive system and it’s one of more than 200 holistic treatments on offer at RAKxa, a new integrative medical and wellness retreat down river from Bangkok, set on a fragrant garden island that’s far enough from the big city to see its towers in the distance but also to avoid the worst of its pollution.</p><p>RAKxa, which means “cherish”, differs from Thailand’s two older, famous wellness retreats, Kamalaya and Chiva Som, in that it adds in a medical component to wellness through a partnership with the VitaLife Scientific Wellness clinic, part of Bangkok’s respected Bumrungrad International Hospital. The result is a wellness hub where the medical innovation of the clinic is closely integrated with traditional and holistic therapies.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="RAKxa ... not your everyday spa." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bf2154d06c7a98fb70735af36659cad56ecc83af 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">RAKxa ... not your everyday spa.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>RAKxa is just an hour by car from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport, in what’s been dubbed the city’s “green lung”. The grounds are carefully manicured and landscaped, the spacious, stylish villas set in private gardens, neat as an upscale suburban street. The scent of jasmine, which grows profusely and even flavours the retreat’s drinking water, fills the air.</p><p>At the arrival pavilion, which is set on a tranquil man-made lake crossed by a zigzag bridge, I’m serenaded by a sound cloud to mark the start of my “wellness journey”. The only discordant sounds I’ll hear in the next three days are the engines of motorboats on the river and the occasional plane far overhead.</p><p>Like all guests, I’ve filled out a pre-admission medical form. While I can choose one of four programs – Weight Control& Detox, Rebalance Body & Mind, Wellbeing & Recovery and Advanced Aesthetics – my wellness co-ordinator, Paan, creates a highly personalised schedule for me and guides me through appointments in the coming days.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Ancient therapies are applied alongside latest technology. " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.113%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9bbeaf8eb82c35777af3250dc27e398a1d7e4f82 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Ancient therapies are applied alongside latest technology. </span></p></figcaption></figure></div></div></div></section><div class="_1FVfK"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-728x90_970x250-pos3-desktop"></div></div></div></div><section class="vPaWe" data-testid="article-body-bottom"><div class="_1ysFk"><div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>I tell her I’d like to concentrate on healing my gut, which is suffering from the stress and time zone confusion of my travelling life. I’m assigned four doctor appointments (medical, Thai, Ayurvedic and Chinese) as well as a functional fitness assessment. Each professional will create for me a program of four therapeutic treatments. That’s 16 treatments (which include two relaxing hydrotherapy sessions) in three days. It’s intense. There are also free daily activities, including Tai Chi and aqua aerobic boxing, but I don’t have time to try any of them. Even finding a moment to swim in the beautiful, green-tiled pool is challenging.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Dietary advice at the ready ... RAKxa wellness resort." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.115%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/30102f886858e77b08a170490cb3082d89337361 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Dietary advice at the ready ... RAKxa wellness resort.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>RAKxa has three separate treatment buildings, a short walk from each other. Jai, an airy, art-filled pavilion is where the traditional therapies take place and contains the luxurious thermal suite of pools, saunas and steam rooms. Gaya is tan impressively equipped fitness and physiotherapy centre and Vitallife is a pristine, hushed building where the medical side of things happen. None of it is invasive – even x-rays happen at the hospital because of their toxicity.</p><p>My first appointment is with Dr Suwanna in Vitallife for a general health assessment. My blood pressure and pulse rate will be taken by a nurse whenever I enter this building. It seems a bit like theatre, but I suppose it’s a precaution before people try the various machines.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Key to wellness is also relaxation amid natural surroundings. " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.369%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b82a9caad306305ba04ee9effdf3704783027b2b 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Key to wellness is also relaxation amid natural surroundings. </span></p></figcaption></figure></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>A nurse pricks my finger, and the blood is transferred to a slide for a Live Blood Analysis. With the doctor I can see my white and red corpuscles on a screen, in real time. “Almost all of them look pretty,” Dr Suwanna Suwannaphong says. Phew. We talk about longevity, one of the clinic’s specialities. She explains the connection with the hospital means it would be possible for me to have a barrage of tests, from DNA testing to a hormone panel (which she recommends), followed up by a telehealth call. There is an extra fee for these tests, and it’s quite hefty – about $847 for the hormone panel – and I decide it would be cheaper to have them done at home if ever I needed them.</p><p>Guests can also bring test results done by their own doctors if they need medical assessment. The doctor prescribes an IV cocktail of probiotics for my digestive system and organises a session in the Hyperbaric Decompression Chamber, which looks like a mini-private jet and supposedly helps the lungs gather extra oxygen to help fight bacteria, stimulate stem cells and clear brain fog. This claustrophobe doesn’t love it, finding the decompression a bit unsettling, but the nurse agrees to sit outside in full view for 45 minutes in case I panic. (I don’t.)</p><p>The clinic also offers high-tech aesthetic procedures such as Coolsculpting, Vanquish Fat Elimination, Thermage skin-lifting and Botox injections, which interest me not in the slightest. Nevertheless, they are obviously great money-spinners for Thai clinics.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="The food is delicious and devised specifically for you." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.146%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_31/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c5a0c8ea18f9a9806b49f570a52c4b6dc08bf7b3 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">The food is delicious and devised specifically for you.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>Over to Jai and the traditional therapies. The Chinese doctor, Dr Ice Penkamol Monthiankasem, assesses my health by first looking at my tongue. She follows this with an intense session of acupuncture, using a cigar of smoking herbs to heat the needles as she adjusts them. The Ayurvedic doctor, Dr Dinesh Singh, assesses my dosha (body type) and has some useful dietary suggestions. I mustn’t eat raw food like salads, or drink water before or after meals, but I should eat black raisins daily and introduce a sour fruit called Amla (Indian gooseberry) to my diet. He demonstrates some Pranayama breathwork for me to practise.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Into the mix comes my physical assessment with James in Gaya gym. He runs me through a barrage of tests for strength, flexibility and balance, giving me points for each one. I’m a bit of a failure but on a balance machine I discover my right leg is much weaker than my left, valuable information that explains my recent bout of tripping. Jeng takes over and gives me a session on the red cord machine, which is used in serious rehabilitation clinics. It’s a series of slings hanging off bungee cords that mimic zero gravity, a way of safely exercising without pain.</p><p>The strength of RAKxa is that all the doctors from the different disciplines consult each other regarding my health and adjust their treatments according to communal information. All the sessions are thorough, but as I’m just having a sampler, I think I’d gain more by staying longer for follow-up treatment.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="The RAKxa Wellness & Medical Retreat is 45 minutes’ drive from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f1236c7db2938743112c6347529cc1267b9e0add 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">The RAKxa Wellness & Medical Retreat is 45 minutes’ drive from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport.</span></p></figcaption></figure><p>What really stands out is the symbiotic relationship between the doctors and chef nutritionist Ban-Bansani Nawisamphan who is a brilliant cook and a master of presentation. She is constantly tweaking the three-course lunch and dinner menus for my dietary requirements. I’m not allowed to have mango sticky rice one night (sad face) but she replaces it with a version so clever and delicious I wouldn’t go back to the original.</p><p>There’s no dairy or alcohol, instead kombuchas that taste better than any cocktail. There’s a separate Tea Lounge in the garden, where herbal teas are brewed especially for my condition. There’s also coffee and it’s good. And bread, lots of it, fresh-baked and warm. It’s a continual feast, the tastiest and healthiest food I’ve eaten at any resort, anywhere. My verdict? So much attention to myself over three days is going to result in me feeling great, regardless. But I really do think my gut issues were helped conclusively, so mission accomplished. And I was well fed and rested, with room, amenities and treatments devised to help me sleep. The traditional therapists I found to be especially good.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>It was a reset rather than a revolution, and I’m sent home with reports and recommendations from each doctor, plus videos from the physiotherapists on exercises I should do at home to help my physical condition.</p><p>However, given that RAKxa is five-star all the way and priced accordingly, a treatment program is probably better value for someone recovering from surgery or injury, or with a specific ailment, such as sleep deprivation or a serious need to detox or lose weight, than for a person who simply needs a bit of pampering.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="A mix of east and west. " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.151%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/9f731367101e88ca9f6f2167d9e0e679537368b6 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">A mix of east and west. </span></p></figcaption></figure><p>But if you want it, they do pampering expertly too.</p><p><em>Programs at RAKxa Wellness and Medical Retreat from 145,00 TBH ($6197) for three nights, including meals, accommodation, transfers, doctor consultations, treatments and free activities. The programs are personalised and inclusions vary. Tel +66 2055 3100. See <a href="http://rakxawellness.com" rel="noopener" target="_blank"> rakxawellness.com</a></em></p></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p><em>The writer was a guest of RAKxa.</em></p></div></div><div class="noPrint"><div></div><div></div><div class="_1vwTE _2cBGs"><button class="YmeiI" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O" focusable="false" height="12" width="12"><use xlink:href="#icon-info"></use></svg><span>How we travel</span></button></div><div class="_1JIy2 rZpFN"><p class="VCnAR">Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter</p><p>Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. <a class="_3CeJu" href="https://login.myfairfax.com.au/signup_newsletter/10165?channel_key=4vLxp6nBuWVKEPLaQuUKwA&callback_uri=">Sign up now</a>.</p></div></div><div id="embedded-feedback"></div><div class="_22FRK _2spQv _1r_Lb"><section class="aKWhn noPrint" id="endOfArticle"><div class="dLGbc"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>, <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://theage.myfairfax.com.au/channel/4vLxp6nBuWVKEPLaQuUKwA/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.theage.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> to save articles for later.</div></div><div class="_8Cum8"><a class="_4oUp_ _1huTw" href="https://professional.licensing-publishing.nine.com.au/C.aspx?VP3=CMS3&VF=FXJFXT_3">License this article</a></div><div class="ZFgNO"><ul class="_3Nz34 _2qm3J"><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/traveller/topic/thailand-fxd">Thailand</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/traveller/topic/wellness-holidays-l6c">Wellness holidays</a></li></ul></div></div></section><div class="_2Cg_3"><div class="iQMz1" hidden=""><div class="_1Oml5"><a class="_3NFLJ _1JRPq" title="Articles by Lee Tulloch" href="/traveller/by/lee-tulloch-hvevs">Lee Tulloch</a> – Lee is a best-selling novelist, columnist, editor and writer. 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Thai doctor sets fire to my belly, and I don\\u2019t even flinch.\",\"allowComments\":false,\"body\":\"<p>The Thai doctor sets fire to my belly, and I don\\u2019t even flinch as the flames dance in the darkened room. There\\u2019s a thick paste of herbs between my skin and the fire and it feels warm and comforting.</p><p>The doctor applies and extinguishes the fire five times, gently massaging the herbs into my stomach between each flaming, before I\\u2019m treated to a rhythmic full-body massage. Can I come back for more tomorrow?</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"61fcbd2490bebebc366b1434ccb3fd49b51b61b6\\\"></x-placeholder><p>The treatment is called Ya Pao, a traditional Thai therapy for increasing blood flow to the lymphatic and digestive system and it\\u2019s one of more than 200 holistic treatments on offer at RAKxa, a new integrative medical and wellness retreat down river from Bangkok, set on a fragrant garden island that\\u2019s far enough from the big city to see its towers in the distance but also to avoid the worst of its pollution.</p><p>RAKxa, which means \\u201Ccherish\\u201D, differs from Thailand\\u2019s two older, famous wellness retreats, Kamalaya and Chiva Som, in that it adds in a medical component to wellness through a partnership with the VitaLife Scientific Wellness clinic, part of Bangkok\\u2019s respected Bumrungrad International Hospital. The result is a wellness hub where the medical innovation of the clinic is closely integrated with traditional and holistic therapies.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"45b1de1076f558749b80b36658d0cf9609806c5c\\\"></x-placeholder><p>RAKxa is just an hour by car from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport, in what\\u2019s been dubbed the city\\u2019s \\u201Cgreen lung\\u201D. The grounds are carefully manicured and landscaped, the spacious, stylish villas set in private gardens, neat as an upscale suburban street. The scent of jasmine, which grows profusely and even flavours the retreat\\u2019s drinking water, fills the air.</p><p>At the arrival pavilion, which is set on a tranquil man-made lake crossed by a zigzag bridge, I\\u2019m serenaded by a sound cloud to mark the start of my \\u201Cwellness journey\\u201D. The only discordant sounds I\\u2019ll hear in the next three days are the engines of motorboats on the river and the occasional plane far overhead.</p><p>Like all guests, I\\u2019ve filled out a pre-admission medical form. While I can choose one of four programs \\u2013 Weight Control& Detox, Rebalance Body & Mind, Wellbeing & Recovery and Advanced Aesthetics \\u2013 my wellness co-ordinator, Paan, creates a highly personalised schedule for me and guides me through appointments in the coming days.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"6a97480289c3ac0631cfc2e8fac14f234058dedc\\\"></x-placeholder><p>I tell her I\\u2019d like to concentrate on healing my gut, which is suffering from the stress and time zone confusion of my travelling life. I\\u2019m assigned four doctor appointments (medical, Thai, Ayurvedic and Chinese) as well as a functional fitness assessment. Each professional will create for me a program of four therapeutic treatments. That\\u2019s 16 treatments (which include two relaxing hydrotherapy sessions) in three days. It\\u2019s intense. There are also free daily activities, including Tai Chi and aqua aerobic boxing, but I don\\u2019t have time to try any of them. Even finding a moment to swim in the beautiful, green-tiled pool is challenging.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"fb8856349ee70f9ff53c472111f0045ab9b33d19\\\"></x-placeholder><p>RAKxa has three separate treatment buildings, a short walk from each other. Jai, an airy, art-filled pavilion is where the traditional therapies take place and contains the luxurious thermal suite of pools, saunas and steam rooms. Gaya is tan impressively equipped fitness and physiotherapy centre and Vitallife is a pristine, hushed building where the medical side of things happen. None of it is invasive \\u2013 even x-rays happen at the hospital because of their toxicity.</p><p>My first appointment is with Dr Suwanna in Vitallife for a general health assessment. My blood pressure and pulse rate will be taken by a nurse whenever I enter this building. It seems a bit like theatre, but I suppose it\\u2019s a precaution before people try the various machines.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"d718b4f5ba6bbf8119f481b1643563b171a0b0ef\\\"></x-placeholder><p>A nurse pricks my finger, and the blood is transferred to a slide for a Live Blood Analysis. With the doctor I can see my white and red corpuscles on a screen, in real time. \\u201CAlmost all of them look pretty,\\u201D Dr Suwanna Suwannaphong says. Phew. We talk about longevity, one of the clinic\\u2019s specialities. She explains the connection with the hospital means it would be possible for me to have a barrage of tests, from DNA testing to a hormone panel (which she recommends), followed up by a telehealth call. There is an extra fee for these tests, and it\\u2019s quite hefty \\u2013 about $847 for the hormone panel \\u2013 and I decide it would be cheaper to have them done at home if ever I needed them.</p><p>Guests can also bring test results done by their own doctors if they need medical assessment. The doctor prescribes an IV cocktail of probiotics for my digestive system and organises a session in the Hyperbaric Decompression Chamber, which looks like a mini-private jet and supposedly helps the lungs gather extra oxygen to help fight bacteria, stimulate stem cells and clear brain fog. This claustrophobe doesn\\u2019t love it, finding the decompression a bit unsettling, but the nurse agrees to sit outside in full view for 45 minutes in case I panic. (I don\\u2019t.)</p><p>The clinic also offers high-tech aesthetic procedures such as Coolsculpting, Vanquish Fat Elimination, Thermage skin-lifting and Botox injections, which interest me not in the slightest. Nevertheless, they are obviously great money-spinners for Thai clinics.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"84dbe3f1268108fdc68894b2bf5522f3b97b8cd2\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Over to Jai and the traditional therapies. The Chinese doctor, Dr Ice Penkamol Monthiankasem, assesses my health by first looking at my tongue. She follows this with an intense session of acupuncture, using a cigar of smoking herbs to heat the needles as she adjusts them. The Ayurvedic doctor, Dr Dinesh Singh, assesses my dosha (body type) and has some useful dietary suggestions. I mustn\\u2019t eat raw food like salads, or drink water before or after meals, but I should eat black raisins daily and introduce a sour fruit called Amla (Indian gooseberry) to my diet. He demonstrates some Pranayama breathwork for me to practise.</p><p>Into the mix comes my physical assessment with James in Gaya gym. He runs me through a barrage of tests for strength, flexibility and balance, giving me points for each one. I\\u2019m a bit of a failure but on a balance machine I discover my right leg is much weaker than my left, valuable information that explains my recent bout of tripping. Jeng takes over and gives me a session on the red cord machine, which is used in serious rehabilitation clinics. It\\u2019s a series of slings hanging off bungee cords that mimic zero gravity, a way of safely exercising without pain.</p><p>The strength of RAKxa is that all the doctors from the different disciplines consult each other regarding my health and adjust their treatments according to communal information. All the sessions are thorough, but as I\\u2019m just having a sampler, I think I\\u2019d gain more by staying longer for follow-up treatment.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"cdbd0540a4081df587bbbe0db1c7c74f904d5de4\\\"></x-placeholder><p>What really stands out is the symbiotic relationship between the doctors and chef nutritionist Ban-Bansani Nawisamphan who is a brilliant cook and a master of presentation. She is constantly tweaking the three-course lunch and dinner menus for my dietary requirements. I\\u2019m not allowed to have mango sticky rice one night (sad face) but she replaces it with a version so clever and delicious I wouldn\\u2019t go back to the original.</p><p>There\\u2019s no dairy or alcohol, instead kombuchas that taste better than any cocktail. There\\u2019s a separate Tea Lounge in the garden, where herbal teas are brewed especially for my condition. There\\u2019s also coffee and it\\u2019s good. And bread, lots of it, fresh-baked and warm. It\\u2019s a continual feast, the tastiest and healthiest food I\\u2019ve eaten at any resort, anywhere. My verdict? So much attention to myself over three days is going to result in me feeling great, regardless. But I really do think my gut issues were helped conclusively, so mission accomplished. And I was well fed and rested, with room, amenities and treatments devised to help me sleep. The traditional therapists I found to be especially good.</p><p>It was a reset rather than a revolution, and I\\u2019m sent home with reports and recommendations from each doctor, plus videos from the physiotherapists on exercises I should do at home to help my physical condition.</p><p>However, given that RAKxa is five-star all the way and priced accordingly, a treatment program is probably better value for someone recovering from surgery or injury, or with a specific ailment, such as sleep deprivation or a serious need to detox or lose weight, than for a person who simply needs a bit of pampering.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"48fbb2352a6584ab78671e8ae6158db56f75ad3d\\\"></x-placeholder><p>But if you want it, they do pampering expertly too.</p><p><em>Programs at RAKxa Wellness and Medical Retreat from 145,00 TBH ($6197) for three nights, including meals, accommodation, transfers, doctor consultations, treatments and free activities. The programs are personalised and inclusions vary. 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