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Lectures de plage : à propos de deux histoires du bronzage - Nonfiction.fr le portail des livres et des idées
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data-category="arts">Arts</a> </li> </ul> </nav> <div class="header__themas mw8-ns tr white f3 mb2-ns mt4-ns flex-ns justify-end center"> <span class="w-60-ns tc f-mw i db-ns dn"></span> </div> </header> <section class="jumbo justify-between mw8-ns center pa2-m pb3-ns"> <div class=""> <article data-category="lettres" class="carousel__item flex flex-row-ns flex-column tl-ns tc relative-ns"> <div class="jumbo__excerpt w-60-ns order-2 order-1-ns mh4 mh0-ns pa2 z-1"> <h2 class="f-mw f3-ns f6-m f5 mt2 mb0"></h2> <h1 class="f-mw f2 f1-ns mt3 lh-title f4-m mb0">Lectures de plage : à propos de deux histoires du bronzage</h1> <p class="post__author"> <span class="b ttu f7">par </span><a href="fiche-perso-332-antoine-roullet.htm" class="author__link no-underline black underline-hover">Antoine ROULLET</a> </p> <ul class="post__excerpt ma0 pa0 list f-pn tc-grey tl lh-copy f6 w-70-ns w-80-m"> <li>Publication • 10 juillet 2008</li> <li>Lecture • 8 minutes</li> <li><a href="https://version-imprimable.nonfiction.fr/articlepdf-1322-lectures-de-plage-a-propos-de-deux-histoires-du-bronzage.htm" rel="nofollow" class="no-underline">Version PDF</a></li> </ul> </div> </article> </div> </section> <section class="post-content mw8-ns center justify-between flex flex-row-ns flex-column pa2-m f-mw lh-title pv3 relative"> <aside class="post-content__book tr tl-m tr-ns order-0-ns order-0-m order-0 mt4 mv4-m mt0-ns pt4-m center-m"> <div class="flex flex-column-ns flex-row-m flex-row w-80 w-100-ns center"> <img src="/prximgsrv/rsz/150/250/x/repo/2/5/25e8a6d4a4eff3fea8e9d524e8b0e56d-0.jpg" alt="" width="150px" class="pr3 pr0-ns pr3-m"> <div class="f6-ns f7 tc-grey"> <h6 class="ma0 mt3 f6">Bronzage. Une petite histoire du soleil et de la peau</h6> <p class="ma0"> <a class="tc-grey no-underline" href="fiche-auteur-874-bernard-andrieu.htm">Bernard Andrieu</a> </p> <p class="ma0 f-pn">CNRS</p> <p class="ma0 f-pn">127 pages</p> </div> </div> <div class="flex flex-column-ns flex-row-m flex-row w-80 w-100-ns center"> <img src="/prximgsrv/rsz/150/250/x/repo/c/7/c7c3d27e3ebb249f69d3a50090f387d6-0.gif" alt="" width="150px" class="pr3 pr0-ns pr3-m"> <div class="f6-ns f7 tc-grey"> <h6 class="ma0 mt3 f6">L'invention du bronzage</h6> <p class="ma0"> <a class="tc-grey no-underline" href="fiche-auteur-875-pascal-ory.htm">Pascal Ory</a> </p> <p class="ma0 f-pn">Complexe</p> <p class="ma0 f-pn">135 pages</p> </div> </div> </aside> <aside class="post-content__resume order-2-ns order-1-m order-1 mt3 mt0-ns center-m pa3 pa0-ns"> <div class="flex flex-column"> <ul class="list pa0 flex flex-column-ns flex-row flex-row-m ma0"> <li class="mr2"><a class="tc-wine-fushia no-underline i" href="recherche.htm?tag=andrieu">#andrieu</a></li> <li class="mr2"><a class="tc-wine-fushia no-underline i" href="recherche.htm?tag=sociologie">#sociologie</a></li> <li class="mr2"><a class="tc-wine-fushia no-underline i" href="recherche.htm?tag=histoire">#histoire</a></li> <li class="mr2"><a class="tc-wine-fushia no-underline i" href="recherche.htm?tag=bronzage">#bronzage</a></li> <li class="mr2"><a class="tc-wine-fushia no-underline i" href="recherche.htm?tag=sante">#sante</a></li> </ul> </div> </aside> <article class="post-content__post mwSingle flex flex-wrap order-1-ns order-0-m order-0 f5-ns f6"> <p class="chapeau tc-wine-fushia f4-ns f5">Deux livres abordant l'histoire culturelle du bronzage... pour dorer en toute connaissance de cause.</p> <p>Deux livres paraissent simultanément sur l’histoire du bronzage. L’un a récemment fait l’objet d’une émission sur <em>France Inter</em> <span data-text="<em>2000 ans d’histoire</em>, le 27 juin 2008" class="infobox"> </span> pour expliquer cette "révolution" que constitue le renversement dans l’entre-deux-guerres d’un canon de beauté occidental vieux de plusieurs siècles : celui de la peau pâle et blanche, aristocratique. Idole renversée par la peau bronzée du roturier ? Pas vraiment, c’est une mutation des élites que décrivent les deux livres, avec deux approches assez différentes. En profitant d’une historiographie du corps désormais abondante sur les questions des bains de mer, du maillot de bain, du naturisme ou du maquillage, autant de thèmes qui touchent de près à la question du bronzage, chacun s’attache à décrire ce basculement crucial et propose une lecture agréable sur un thème de vacances dont les enjeux sont bien plus complexes et profonds qu’une lecture superficielle pourrait le supposer.<br /> <br /> Le petit livre de Bernard Andrieu <span data-text="Bernard Andrieu, <em>Bronzage, une petite histoire du soleil et de la peau</em>, CNRS Éditions, Paris, 2008, 127 pages" class="infobox"> </span> , sous-titré "une petite histoire du soleil et de la peau", est le fruit de la collaboration entre le CNRS et l’Observatoire Nivéa, qui finance des recherches sur la peau. Parce que selon lui, le bronzage est une forme de "culte hédoniste au soleil", il commence son ouvrage par des rappels succincts aux grandes civilisations antiques, orientales et précolombiennes et le termine en ouvrant sur un processus plus vaste, "la prise de conscience écologique de la place de l’homme dans le système solaire", dont le bronzage est une étape puisque "l’héliocivilsation" découvre que les interactions avec l’environnement ont à la fois des conséquences positives et négatives. Pascal Ory <span data-text="Pascal Ory, <em>L’invention du bronzage, </em> Paris, Complexe, 2008, 135 pages" class="infobox"> </span> , quant à lui, ne choisit pas les cultes solaires comme point d’entrée dans l’histoire occidentale du bronzage, mais la pâleur chrétienne, présentée comme la lecture religieuse d’une distinction anthropologique qui oppose l’obscurité et la lumière, que l’histoire de la chrétienté occidentale ne fait qu’affiner et renforcer. Le bronzage de Pascal Ory est une rupture majeure, celui de Bernard Andrieu est la réactivation d’un culte millénaire. Et dans les deux cas, le bronzage renverse un "Ancien Régime épidermique" comme le dit Pascal Ory. Et dans les deux cas, ce qui pourrait sembler anecdotique cristallise des enjeux historiques millénaires.<br /> <br /> Fidèle à son idée de faire une histoire "du soleil et de la peau", Bernard Andrieu construit la généalogie du bronzage en allant chercher dans le naturisme et l’héliothérapie ("se soigner par le soleil") le préalable à la "découverte" du bronzage, et étend son étude jusqu’à l’époque contemporaine, où à l’émancipation hédoniste du corps succède la volonté de se protéger, tout en continuant à bronzer. Il explore le maquis d’institutions de santé, de sanatoriums pionniers, de précurseurs du naturisme qui ont les premiers défendu l’idée de l’exposition de la peau au soleil ; explique la "métamorphose dermique" du bronzage, l’un des rares moyens de changer son propre corps, de changer de peau et de contrôler ses mutations identitaire ; et revient sur l’émancipation ambiguë du corps féminin que suppose l’exposition de sa peau au soleil.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> L’histoire culturelle de Pascal Ory a plus de prétentions historiographiques. Celui-ci a dépouillé un corpus spécifique, les magazines féminins, notamment <em>Elle</em>, <em>Marie-Claire</em> et<em> Vogue</em>, trois magazines au positionnement un peu différent. À la date du renversement, difficile à établir et sur laquelle Bernard Andrieu ne s’attarde pas, Pascal Ory consacre de longs développements pour trancher en faveur de 1937. Il récuse deux explications trop simples, qui insistent sur les congés payés et sur le rôle de Coco Chanel. Plus loin, il refuse également les explications d’ordre économique ou commercial, qui font de l’invention du bronzage la conséquence d’’une stratégie industrielle et publicitaire victorieuse, et argumente qu’ils ne font qu’accompagner une révolution plus globale. Il n’accepte pas non plus l’histoire trop belle qui attribue à l’Oréal, et à Ambre solaire, son produit phare en la matière, un rôle de déclencheur dans la révolution du bronzage, ne serait-ce que parce qu’avec "huile de Chaldée", Jean Patou, disparu dès 1936 avait déjà occupé le marché. Parce qu’il se concentre beaucoup sur ce point de basculement où le bronzage est "inventé", selon une formule très en vogue, pour expliquer un changement culturel, Pascal Ory s’étend moins sur l’avant guerre et l’après 1945, même s’il "survole" les décennies suivantes pour conformer que le bronzage est un "fait social total", dont les évolutions réclament des explications complexes qui prennent en compte tous les aspects : culturels, économiques, politiques ou médicaux.<br /> <br /> La révolution a ses limites : Bernard Andrieu et Pascal Ory notent qu’au delà d’un certain seuil les valeurs se renversent à nouveau. Né à l’apogée de la domination coloniale et à l’époque de la <em>Revue Nègre</em> de Joséphine Baker, le bronzage n’abolit pas les préjugés liés à la couleur de peau, ce que Bernard Andrieu résume dans une formule lapidaire : "bronzés, pas immigrés". La mise en valeur de la peau est toujours dangereuse, et aux dangers de la céruse dans le passé correspond les risques cancérigènes de l’exposition au soleil. Bernard Andrieu consacre un chapitre aux manières de se protéger du soleil après avoir consacré le précédent à l’héliothérapie. Ce que les deux livres soulignent ici, parfois de manière assez implicite, et selon un mouvement assez inévitable dans l’histoire des "révolutions", c’est la continuité du système social qui fait la promotion du bronzage, au-delà du renversement des valeurs en fonction desquelles il s’organise. La comparaison avec l’ouvrage de Catherine Lanoë sur les cosmétiques d’Ancien Régime <span data-text="Catherine Lanoë, <em>La poudre et le fard, une histoire des cosmétiques de la Renaissance aux lumières</em>, Paris, Champ Vallon, 2008, 379 pages" class="infobox"> </span> permet de le souligner: des stratégies de distinction des élites, surtout rappelées par Pascal Ory, qui entretiennent un rapport très ambiguë à la santé, où le corps médical participe à la production des cosmétiques tout en prévenant contre leurs dangers, qui s’appuie sur une production industrielle de luxe et sur le maintien d’un système de valeurs opposées. Le mot fameux de Valéry sur laquelle Pascal Ory ouvre son travail, "ce qu’il y a de plus profond chez l’homme, c’est la peau", n’a en tout cas jamais été autant d’actualité qu’avec la parution de ces deux ouvrages</p> </article> </section> <section class="post-content__author mw7-ns w-100 center f-pn lh-title pb5 pb3-ns mt4 pa3 pa2-m bg-silver"> <h4>Si cette lecture vous a été utile, aidez-nous à vous en proposer d'autres !</h4> <p> Les dons de nos lecteurs sont indispensables à la vie de Nonfiction. Grâce à une gestion rigoureuse, 250 dons de 40 euros suffiraient à assurer nos dépenses de fonctionnement annuelles. Nonfiction étant reconnu d'intérêt général, les dons sont défiscalisés à hauteur de 66% (un don de 100 euros ne vous coûte que 33 après impôts). </p> <p>Pour faire un don, <a href="https://www.helloasso.com/associations/nonfiction/formulaires/1" target="_blank" class="b">cliquer ici</a>.</p> </section> <section class="post-content__author mw7-ns w-100 center f-pn lh-title pb5 pb3-ns mt4 pa3 pa2-m"> <a href="fiche-perso-332-antoine-roullet.htm"> <img class="db center bg-grey mt4 mb2" src="assets/img/profilepic.png" alt="Antoine ROULLET"/> </a> <h4 class="ttu ma0 tc bold"><a class="black no-underline underline-hover" href="fiche-perso-332-antoine-roullet.htm">Antoine ROULLET</a></h4> <p><p>Docteur en histoire moderne, Antoine Roullet est agrégé d'histoire et ancien membre de la Casa de Velázquez, coordinateur du réseau <a href="http://www.panurge.org">Panurge</a> consacré à la Renaissance. Ses travaux de recherche portent sur le corps religieux à la fin du XVIe et au début du XVIIe siècle, à partir des sources hagiographiques espagnoles. Depuis octobre 2007, il est critique d'histoire au portail des livres et des idées, <a href="http://nonfiction.fr">nonfiction.fr</a>.</p></p> <a href="fiche-perso-332-antoine-roullet.htm" class="chevron-cta f6 ttu tc-grey no-underline fw6 pa1 pa0-ns tc underline-hover">Lire plus d'articles</a> </section> <footer class="f-mw"> <section class="mw8-ns center flex flex-row-ns flex-column pv5 justify-center items-center ph2-m"> <svg version="1.1" class="w-30-ns w-80 mb4 mb0-ns" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewBox="0 0 580 83" width="270" height="40" xml:space="preserve"> <g> <g> <path fill="#E5DE4E" d="M581.6,56.9L555,29.7c-0.4-0.4-1-0.5-1.5-0.3c-0.5,0.2-0.8,0.7-0.8,1.2v38.1c0,0.5,0.3,1,0.8,1.2 c0.5,0.2,1.1,0.1,1.5-0.3l7.8-8.1l8.1,18.9c0.1,0.3,0.4,0.6,0.7,0.7c0.2,0.1,0.3,0.1,0.5,0.1c0.2,0,0.4,0,0.6-0.1l5.1-2.4 c0.7-0.3,1-1.1,0.7-1.8l-8.2-18.2l10.5,0.3c0.6,0,1-0.3,1.3-0.8C582.1,57.8,582,57.3,581.6,56.9z M568.1,56.2 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