CINXE.COM

<!DOCTYPE html>  <html> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=7YQSqjSh" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("http://www.standard.co.uk:80/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html","20150921193406","https://web.archive.org/","web","https://web-static.archive.org/_static/", "1442864046"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=p7PEIJWi" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web-static.archive.org/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"/> <meta name="article:subsection" content=""/> <meta property="article:section" content="Restaurants"/> <meta name="article:author_name" content="Fay Maschler"/> <meta name="article:embed_count" content="0"/> <meta name="article:content_type" content="story"/> <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/> <meta name="article:internal_link_count" content="0"/> <meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/> <meta rel="dns-prefetch" href="//static.standard.co.uk"/> <script src="//web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://d3c3cq33003psk.cloudfront.net/opentag-76050-688693.js" async defer></script><meta name="article:external_link_count" content="1"/> <meta name="article:image_count" content="1"/> <meta name="article:word_count" content="872"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="36x36" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-36x36.png"/> <meta name="article:video_count" content="0"/> <link rel="ms-icon" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/ms-icon-70x70.png" sizes="70x70"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="192x192" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-192x192.png"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="114x114" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-114x114.png"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="48x48" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-48x48.png"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="72x72" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-72x72.png"/> <link rel="stamp-standard" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/stamp_standard.png"/> <link rel="ms-icon" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/ms-icon-310x310.png" sizes="310x310"/> <link rel="ms-icon" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/ms-icon-150x150.png" sizes="150x150"/> <link rel="android-icon" sizes="96x96" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/android-icon-96x96.png"/> <link rel="ms-icon" href="/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/ms-icon-144x144.png" sizes="144x144"/> <meta name="description" content=""At restaurant Gary Usher there will be no furniture, staff or food. I want to change the way people think about restaurants.” This recent tweet from Gary Usher, chef/patron of Sticky Walnut in Cheshire, was, as ever, trenchant and funny but also quite an apposite read after an outing to the newly opened Rex & Mariano in Soho."/> <meta name="generator" content="Drupal 7 (http://drupal.org)"/> <link rel="canonical" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html"/> <meta property="fb:admins" content="36903991"/> <meta property="fb:admins" content="100001802971061"/> <meta property="fb:admins" content="500243253"/> <meta property="fb:app_id" content="193840110715213"/> <meta property="og:site_name" content="Evening Standard"/> <meta property="og:type" content="article"/> <meta property="og:title" content="Fay Maschler reviews Rex & Mariano"/> <meta property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html"/> <meta property="og:description" content=""At restaurant Gary Usher there will be no furniture, staff or food. I want to change the way people think about restaurants.” This recent tweet from Gary Usher, chef/patron of Sticky Walnut in Cheshire, was, as ever, trenchant and funny but also quite an apposite read after an outing to the newly opened Rex & Mariano in Soho."/> <meta property="og:updated_time" content="2015-03-04T13:16:36+00:00"/> <meta name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/> <meta name="twitter:site" content="@standardnews"/> <meta name="twitter:title" content="Fay Maschler reviews Rex & Mariano"/> <meta name="twitter:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html"/> <meta name="twitter:description" content=""At restaurant Gary Usher there will be no furniture, staff or food. I want to change the way people think about restaurants.” This recent tweet from Gary Usher, chef/patron of Sticky Walnut in Cheshire, was, as ever, trenchant and funny but also quite an apposite read after an outing to the newly opened Rex & Mariano in Soho."/> <meta property="og:locale" content="en_GB"/> <meta property="article:publisher" content="165348596842143"/> <meta property="article:published_time" content="2014-12-10T10:19:22Z"/> <meta property="article:modified_time" content="2015-03-04T13:16:36Z"/> <link rel="shortcut icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/favicon.ico" type="image/ico"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-60x60.png"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-72x72.png" sizes="72x72"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-76x76.png" sizes="76x76"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-114x114.png" sizes="114x114"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-120x120.png" sizes="120x120"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-144x144.png" sizes="144x144"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-152x152.png" sizes="152x152"/> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/apple-icon-180x180.png" sizes="180x180"/> <title>Fay Maschler reviews Rex & Mariano | Restaurants | Going Out | London Evening Standard</title> <style type="text/css" media="all"> @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/system/system.base.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/system/system.menus.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/system/system.messages.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/system/system.theme.css?nuzrq8"); </style> <style type="text/css" media="all"> @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/date/date_api/date.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/date/date_popup/themes/datepicker.1.7.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/scald/modules/library/dnd/css/editor-global.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/field/theme/field.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_archive_calendar/ines_archive_calendar.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/node/node.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/modules/user/user.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/workflow/workflow_admin_ui/workflow_admin_ui.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/views/css/views.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/ckeditor/css/ckeditor.css?nuzrq8"); </style> <style type="text/css" media="all"> @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/ctools/css/ctools.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/css/style.css?nuzrq8"); @import url("https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406cs_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_hacks/css/admin.css?nuzrq8"); </style> <script type="text/javascript"> var articleId = '89121'; var pageType = 'image'; </script>   <script class="kxct" data-id="I8gZC8Zj" data-timing="async" data-version="1.9" type="text/javascript"> window.Krux||((Krux=function(){Krux.q.push(arguments)}).q=[]); (function(){ var k=document.createElement('script');k.type='text/javascript';k.async=true; var m,src=(m=location.href.match(/\bkxsrc=([^&]+)/))&&decodeURIComponent(m[1]); k.src = /^https?:\/\/([^\/]+\.)?krxd\.net(:\d{1,5})?\//i.test(src) ? src : src === "disable" ? "" : (location.protocol==="https:"?"https:":"http:")+"//web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://cdn.krxd.net/controltag?confid=I8gZC8Zj"; var s=document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0];s.parentNode.insertBefore(k,s); }()); </script>  <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/js/adunit.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://cdn.gigya.com/JS/gigya.js?apiKey=2_V1cxkWc5VDxyLW2FOjS3hsX5psLFEHGL2kf4mV2_oJByE9q6MtWSDwM7obEDha55"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/vendor/jquery-2.1.3.min.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/vendor/jquery.lazyload.min.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/ines-lazy-load.js?nuzrq8"></script> </head> <body class="not-front article article-89121 article-image source-9914644 inline-gallery inline-gallery-286156"> <header id="masthead"> <a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/" title="Home"> <span class="logo"></span> <ul id="dynamic-header"> <li class="logotype active"> <span class="logo-full"></span> </li> <li class="share"> <div id="gigya-share-btns-3"></div> </li> <li class="push"> <div id="fb-root"></div> <script>(function(d, s, id) { var js, fjs = d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0]; if (d.getElementById(id)) return; js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id; js.src = "//web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://connect.facebook.net/en_GB/sdk.js#xfbml=1&version=v2.4&appId=193840110715213"; fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs); }(document, 'script', 'facebook-jssdk'));</script> <div class="fb-like" data-href="https://www.facebook.com/esgoingout" data-layout="button_count" data-action="like" data-show-faces="false" data-share="false"></div> </li> </ul> </a> <nav> <ol><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news" title="">News</a><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london" title="">London</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/crime" title="">Crime</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/politics" title="">Politics</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/transport" title="">Transport</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/business" title="">Business</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/comment" title="">Comment</a></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football" title="">Football</a><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/arsenal" title="">Arsenal</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/chelsea" title="">Chelsea</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/crystalpalace" title="">Crystal Palace</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/tottenham" title="">Tottenham</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/watford" title="">Watford</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/westham" title="">West Ham</a></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/rugby" title="">Rugby World Cup</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout" title="">Going Out</a><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants" title="">Restaurants</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/bars" title="">Pubs & Bars</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/theatre" title="">Theatre</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/film" title="">Film</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/music" title="">Music</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/attractions" title="">Events & Attractions</a></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle" title="">Lifestyle</a><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/fashion" title="">Fashion</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/foodanddrink" title="">Food & Drink</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/health" title="">Health & Fitness</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/travel" title="">Travel</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/design" title="">Design</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine" title="">ES Magazine</a></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/showbiz" title="">Showbiz</a><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/stayingin" title="">Staying In</a></li> <li class="topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/strictly-come-dancing" title="">Strictly Come Dancing</a></li> <li class="topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/the-x-factor" title="">The X Factor</a></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/" title="">Homes & Property</a><ul><li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/property-news" title="">Property News</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/area-guides" title="">Area Guides</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/property-search" title="">Property Search</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/home-garden" title="">Home & Garden</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/luxury" title="">Luxury</a></li> </ul></li> </ol> </nav> <ol id="meta-nav"> <li class="search"> <a href="#" class="icon-search dropdown-toggle" title="Search"></a> <form class="search-form search search" action="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html" method="post" id="search-form" accept-charset="UTF-8"><div><div class="container-inline search-container search-container form-wrapper" id="edit-basic"><div class="form-item form-type-textfield form-item-keys"> <label for="edit-keys"> </label> <input placeholder="Search" autofocus="1" type="text" id="edit-keys" name="keys" value="" size="20" maxlength="255" class="form-text"/> </div> <input type="submit" id="edit-submit" name="op" value="Search" class="form-submit"/><input type="hidden" name="get" value="[]"/> </div><input type="hidden" name="form_build_id" value="form-YJX6r1hPCEmPSuFKi8FRdIKpvbC80S4ej0q8bww3iaM"/> <input type="hidden" name="form_id" value="apachesolr_search_custom_page_search_form"/> </div></form> </li> <li class="account"> <a href="#" class="icon-user dropdown-toggle" title="Account"></a> <ul class="dropdown-menu"><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/login">Sign in</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/register">Register</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/incoming/why-register-9636948.html" title="">Benefits</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/terms-of-use-6902768.html" title="">User policies</a></li> </ul> </li> <li class="toggle-menu"> <a href="#" class="icon-menu" title="Toggle menu"></a> </li> </ol> <div id="menu"> <form class="search-form search search" action="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-rex-mariano-9914644.html" method="post" id="search-form" accept-charset="UTF-8"><div><div class="container-inline search-container search-container form-wrapper" id="edit-basic"><div class="form-item form-type-textfield form-item-keys"> <label for="edit-keys"> </label> <input placeholder="Search" autofocus="1" type="text" id="edit-keys" name="keys" value="" size="20" maxlength="255" class="form-text"/> </div> <input type="submit" id="edit-submit" name="op" value="Search" class="form-submit"/><input type="hidden" name="get" value="[]"/> </div><input type="hidden" name="form_build_id" value="form-YJX6r1hPCEmPSuFKi8FRdIKpvbC80S4ej0q8bww3iaM"/> <input type="hidden" name="form_id" value="apachesolr_search_custom_page_search_form"/> </div></form> <ul class="topics"><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news" title="">News</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london" title="">London</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/crime" title="">Crime</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/politics" title="">Politics</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/transport" title="">Transport</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/education" title="">Education</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/health" title="">Health</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/techandgadgets" title="">Technology</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/the1000" title="">Progress 1000</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/comment" title="">Comment</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/londoners-diary" title="">Londoner's Diary</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football" title="">Football</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/arsenal" title="">Arsenal</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/chelsea" title="">Chelsea</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/tottenham" title="">Tottenham Hotspur</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/crystalpalace" title="">Crystal Palace</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/watford" title="">Watford</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/westham" title="">West Ham</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/transfer-news" title="">Transfer News</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/premier-league" title="">Premier League</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/champions-league" title="">Champions League</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/football/championship" title="">Championship</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport" title="">Sport</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/rugby" title="">Rugby World Cup</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/cricket" title="">Cricket</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/sport/tennis" title="">Tennis</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/showbiz" title="">Showbiz</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/strictly-come-dancing" title="">Strictly Come Dancing</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/the-x-factor" title="">The X Factor</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/one-direction" title="">One Direction</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/taylor-swift" title="">Taylor Swift</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/kim-kardashian" title="">Kim Kardashian</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li class="hot_topic"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topic/top-gear" title="">Top Gear</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout" title="">Going Out</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants" title="">Restaurants</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/bars" title="">Bars, Pubs & Clubs</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/theatre" title="">Theatre</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/film" title="">Film</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/music" title="">Music</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/comedy" title="">Comedy</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/attractions" title="">Events & Attractions</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/exhibitions" title="">Exhibitions</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://tickets.standard.co.uk/" title="">Tickets</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/summercycling" title="">Summer cycling</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/stayingin" title="">Staying In</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/stayingin/tvfilm" title="">TV and film</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/stayingin/tech-gaming" title="">Tech and Gaming</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/stayingin/music" title="">Music Streaming</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/books" title="">Books</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle" title="">Lifestyle</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/fashion" title="">Fashion</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/foodanddrink" title="">Food & Drink</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/beauty" title="">Beauty</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/health" title="">Health & Fitness</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/travel" title="">Travel</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/design" title="">Design</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine" title="">ES Magazine</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/horoscopes/today" title="">Horoscopes</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://puzzles.standard.co.uk/" title="">Puzzles & Games</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://traveloffers.standard.co.uk/" title="">Travel Offers</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/health-insurance" title="">Health insurance</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.datelondon.co.uk/" title="">Dating</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/motors" title="">Motors</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/shopping" title="">Shopping</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/shopping/esbest" title="">ES Best</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/shopping/shoplondon" title="">Shop London</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/business" title="">Business & Money</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/business/hifx-international-money-transfers" title="">Money Transfers</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://local.standard.co.uk/" title="">Business Directory</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://courses.standard.co.uk/" title="">Courses</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://businessconnections.standard.co.uk/" title="">Business Connections</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/business/money/investments?icn=ajbell_nav" title="">Investments</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/" title="">Homes & Property</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span><ul><li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/property-news" title="">Property news</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/area-guides" title="">Area guides</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/property-search" title="">Property search</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/home-garden" title="">Home & garden</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/luxury" title="">Luxury</a><span class="toggle"><span class="icon-arrow-right"></span></span></li> </ul></li> </ul> <ul class="secButtons"> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/esrewards"><img src="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/es-offers.gif"></a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/staticpage/applanding"><img src="/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/standard_theme/img/es-apps.gif"></a> </li> </ul> <ul class="follow"> <li>Follow us:</li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/https://www.facebook.com/eveningstandard" target="_blank" title="Facebook" class="icon-facebook"></a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/https://twitter.com/standardnews" target="_blank" title="Twitter" class="icon-twitter"></a> </li> </ul> </div> </header> <div id="content"> <div id="leaderboard" class="ad-leaderboard"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('leaderboard'); }); </script> </div> <div class="margin" id="cookie-warning"> <a href="#" class="close icon-close" title="OK"></a> <p>We use cookies to enhance your visit to our site and to bring you advertisements that might interest you. Read our <a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/privacy-policy-6925316.html">Privacy</a> and <a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/cookie-policy-7785319.html">Cookie</a> policies to find out more.</p> </div> <div class="tabs"></div> <div class="region region-content"> <article class="full-article" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/NewsArticle"> <header> <a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants">Restaurants</a> <h1 itemprop="headline" class="">Fay Maschler reviews Rex & Mariano</h1> <div class="intro"> <p>The latest venture from the guys who brought us Goodman, Beast, and Burger & Lobster is indeed another way in which people can think about a fish restaurant, says Fay Maschler</p> </div> <span class="stars stars-3" itemprop="reviewRating" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Rating"> <span itemprop="ratingValue" class="hidden">3</span> <span class="icon-star"></span> <span class="icon-star"></span> <span class="icon-star"></span> <span class="icon-star"></span> <span class="icon-star"></span> </span> <ul class="caption meta inline-pipes-list"> <li class="author" itemprop="author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"> <span itemprop="name"><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/author/fay-maschler" title="Fay Maschler">Fay Maschler</a></span> </li> <li title="10 December 2014 10:19 London"><time datetime="2014-12-10 10:19:22">Wednesday 10 December 2014 10:19 GMT</time></li> <li class="comments"> <a href="#commentsDiv" id="comment-count" class="icon-comment"></a> </li> </ul> <div id="gigya-share-btns-1"></div> </header> <div class="text-wrapper" itemprop="articleBody"> <p>"At restaurant Gary Usher there will be no furniture, staff or food. I want to change the way people think about restaurants.” This recent tweet from Gary Usher, chef/patron of Sticky Walnut in Cheshire, was, as ever, trenchant and funny but also quite an apposite read after an outing to the newly opened Rex & Mariano in Soho.</p><p>Don’t get me wrong; there is food and there is furniture at the latest venture from the guys who brought us Goodman, Beast, and Burger & Lobster but there is also a (totally laudable) bid to run things differently.</p><p>Rex is Rex Goldsmith from the century-old Chelsea Fishmonger on Chelsea Green. Mariano is a Sicilian chap — father of Daniela, one of Goodman’s employees — who is orchestrating the importing of red prawns and other seafood from Sicilian waters. So suppliers have a business relationship with the concept designed to eliminate the middleman — and the waiters are iPads.</p><p>Ordering from screens is not unknown but here it accounts for the service charge being only five per cent. Presumably the hourly rate is commensurately bumped up for the staff dressed in gondolier T-shirts who ferry dishes from kitchen to customer and come to your rescue when the screen says: “If you are seeing this, please contact your server.”</p><p>As we know, fish is expensive — but then before Burger & Lobster we thought lobster was expensive — and the idea here is to make it pocket-friendly and, I imagine, rollicking, an image that glassy-eyed, glacial fish has seldom achieved.</p><p></p><div class="missing-inline-element" data-msg="Inline image not migrated" data-element-type="image" data-source-id="9914391"></div> Until next year no bookings are taken so I tell my chums we must get to Rex & Mariano early for dinner otherwise queues will be snaking down Dean Street. We arrive at what was previously Vodka Revolution just before 7.30pm and there are few souls in the 115-seater arena. It is early days. We choose a table opposite the huge white-tiled cooking area — the description kitchen would not be entirely accurate — all the better to see the chefs, also kitted out in gondolier T-shirts, strut their stuff.<p>The menu is short and to the point and we are not bamboozled into thinking there is great variety by the layout detailing carpaccio — salmon, sea bass, tuna — followed by tartare — tuna, sea bass, salmon — and then ceviche — sea bass, tuna, salmon. Fish of the day conveyed via a blackboard is tuna steak. It must be a big creature because two days later fish of the day is tuna steak again.</p><p>Reg is overjoyed to see that oysters are £1.50, not much more than retail, and orders nine. He is not so enamoured with the accompanying vinegar, which is a fruit variety, possibly that nouvelle cuisine signifier raspberry vinegar. Salmon carpaccio is a limp, slack heap with fugitive texture and scant flavour. Much better is tuna tartare tossed with avocado, chilli and chives that puts up a bit of resistance to the gnashers.</p><p>Red prawns I discover later are delivered frozen — boats are out at sea for 40 days — which means that defrosted or, as they put it, raw delivers a better texture than cooked. Both ways, daintily shucked with heads intact, a big bunch is offered at what is a bargain price of £10. Despite their chilly confinement a bracing brininess lingers, more easily discerned when no heat has been applied. They are arguably the highlight of the menu and apparently other entrepreneurs like Alan Yau and Jacob Kenedy have been busy noting the mobile numbers of the Sicilian fishing fleet or maybe just that of now shell-shocked Mariano.</p><p>An advantage of iPad ordering is personally conducting the pace of the meal. Dishes arrive lickety-split so it is easy to lay a foundation, build to a crescendo, pause, glissando, order another litre of one of the sweetly priced draught wines supplied by the estimable Roberson Wine without drawing breath in your chat, and eventually wind down to the only dessert of lemon sorbet and good Eros coffee.</p><p>Fritto misto is satisfactory but langoustines (£12) are a regrettable fiddle with very little to show for the effort involved. At lunch another day we like mussels in a garlicky buttery sauce but clams similarly exhorted to open and reveal their boys in the boat cry out for pasta to carry them. It occurs to me that money is also being saved on chefs who are required to do the minimum in order to avoid screwing up. This doesn’t stop them unwisely utilising lime in a tuna ceviche.</p><p>I look up info on spatola, what we call scabbard fish or sabre fish, here served in fillets dusted with polenta, smoked paprika and salsa verde whirled into green colouring, and am tickled to find that the International Union for Conservation of Nature lists the species as being of “least concern”. They’ve got it right.</p><p>Rex & Mariano is indeed another way in which people can think about a fish restaurant. No fuss or formality, and when the brass bell in the kitchen is struck to summon service — as repeatedly happens — it is an enlivening sound, not presaging someone all at sea.</p><p><em>2 St Anne’s Court, W1 (no bookings taken until January, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://rexandmariano.com/" target="_blank">rexandmariano.com</a>). Open daily noon-10pm. A meal for two with wine, about £70 including five per cent service.</em></p><p><em></em></p><div class="dnd-widget-wrapper context-full type-gallery"><div class="dnd-atom-rendered"><div class="container grid-mod-gallery" data-scald-gallery="286156">  <h2 class="gallery-title"><span class="media-prefix icon-gallery"></span>Fay Maschler's latest restaurant reviews</h2> <div class="images">  <ul><li class="lazy" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/04/15/09/83percyfounders1504a.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/grey.gif');"> <a data-gallery-thumb="1" href="#"><span class="pager icon-arrow-left"></span></a> <a data-gallery-thumb="1" href="#"><span class="pager icon-arrow-right"></span></a> </li> <li class="lazy" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/storylist/public/thumbnails/image/2015/04/01/09/SHIKUMENsweetcornsoupwithsnowfungus.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"> <a data-gallery-thumb="2" href="#"></a> </li> <li class="lazy" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/storylist/public/thumbnails/image/2015/03/25/09/culpeper1.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"> <a data-gallery-thumb="3" href="#"></a> </li> <li class="lazy" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/storylist/public/thumbnails/image/2015/02/18/10/AN63114683For-Use-in-The-Ev.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"> <a data-gallery-thumb="4" href="#"></a> </li> <li> <a class="show-all initial-open" href="#"> <span class="additional-photos icon-gallery">11</span> <span class="label">show all</span> </a> </li> </ul></div> </div> <div class="full-gallery"> <div class="scroller"> <a href="#" class="close icon-close" title="Close gallery"></a> <h2 class="gallery-title"><span class="media-prefix icon-gallery"></span>Fay Maschler's latest restaurant reviews</h2> <div class="images"> <ul><li data-gallery-item="1" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/04/15/09/83percyfounders1504a.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="2" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/04/01/09/SHIKUMENsweetcornsoupwithsnowfungus.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="3" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/03/25/09/culpeper1.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="4" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/02/18/10/AN63114683For-Use-in-The-Ev.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="5" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/02/18/10/78Blixen1102b.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="6" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/02/11/10/AN61762356Chai-Wu-Restauram.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="7" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/02/04/10/87TommyTucker2801a.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="8" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/01/14/10/AN60082377PORTLAND-13_resta_1.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="9" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2015/01/14/10/AN59338835For-use-in-the-Ev.png" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="10" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2014/11/06/11/AN55647279Som-saa.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> <li data-gallery-item="11" data-original="http://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2014/05/07/10/AN42629312Lyles-Restaurant-.jpg" style="background-image: url('/web/20150921193406im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif');"></li> </ul><span class="icon-arrow-left"></span> <span class="icon-arrow-right"></span> <a href="#" class="pager prev" title="Previous photo"></a> <a href="#" class="pager next" title="Next photo"></a> </div> <ul class="legends"><li data-gallery-legend="1"> <h2> <span class="counter">1/11</span>  Percy & Founders, W1 ★★ </h2>  <p>Fay Maschler isn't convinced by a menu which feels compiled by a trend-aware committee <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-percy--founders-10177366.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Percy & Founders</u></a><br/><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="2"> <h2> <span class="counter">2/11</span>  Shikumen, E1 ★★★★ </h2>  <p>Fay Maschler says the lunchtime dim sum was in a way the most impressive dish at this rather stylish restaurant attached to the Dorsett Hotel <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-shikumen-10148081.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Shikumen</u></a><br/><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="3"> <h2> <span class="counter">3/11</span>  The Culpeper Kitchen, E1 ★★★★ </h2>  <p>The Culpeper in Spitalfields is just what the doctor ordered, says Fay Maschler <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-the-culpeper-kitchen-10131897.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of The Culpeper Kitchen</u></a><br/><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="4"> <h2> <span class="counter">4/11</span>  Bo Drake, W1 ★★★ </h2>  <p>Expect food with attitude and attack at Jan Lee's new Korean and Mexican mash-up in Soho, says Fay Maschler<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-bo-drake-10053026.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay Maschler's review of Bo Drake</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="5"> <h2> <span class="counter">5/11</span>  Blixen, E1 ★★★ </h2>  <p>Blixen aims to satisfy all, says Fay Maschler, from the morning coffee drinker to the late-night bar settlers<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-blixen-10037987.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Blixen</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="6"> <h2> <span class="counter">6/11</span>  Chai Wu at Harrods, SW1 ★★ </h2>  <p>As the Year of the Sheep approaches, Fay Maschler visits a new Chinese (ish) restaurant in Harrods with ludicrous pricing<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-chai-wu-at-harrods-10022537.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Chai Wu at Harrods</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="7"> <h2> <span class="counter">7/11</span>  The Tommy Tucker, SW6 ★★★ </h2>  <p>At Claude Compton's renovated Fulham pub, Fay Maschler finds the most finesse in a pudding of Cox apple and quince crispy pie<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-the-tommy-tucker-10007634.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of The Tommy Tucker</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="8"> <h2> <span class="counter">8/11</span>  Portland, W1 ★★★ </h2>  <p>Fay Maschler can't wait to go back to Kitty Fisher's, the new wood-fired project from Young British Foodie Chef of the Year 2014 Tomos Parry and former Pitt Cue Co sous-chef Chris Leach<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-portland-9976887.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Portland</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="9"> <h2> <span class="counter">9/11</span>  Kitty Fisher's, W1 ★★★★ </h2>  <p>Fay Maschler can't wait to go back to Kitty Fisher's, the new wood-fired project from Young British Foodie Chef of the Year 2014 Tomos Parry and former Pitt Cue Co sous-chef Chris Leach<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-kitty-fishers-9962036.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Kitty Fisher's</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="10"> <h2> <span class="counter">10/11</span>  Som Saa, E8 ★★★★ </h2>  <p>Andy Oliver has devised dishes inspired by northern and north-eastern Thailand that shock and awe, says Fay Maschler<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-som-saa-9840616.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Som Saa</u></a></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="11"> <h2> <span class="counter">11/11</span>  Lyle's, E1 </h2>  <p>Not a fan of set price tasting menus, Fay Maschler vows to next visit Lyle's, the new Shoreditch restaurant from James Lowe, at lunchtime so she can pick and choose and gambol through the wine list<br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-lyles-9329723.html" style="color:#fff;" target="_blank"><u>Read Fay's review of Lyle's</u></a></p>  </li> </ul><div class="ad-mpu mpu5-container"> </div> </div> </div> </div><div class="dnd-caption-wrapper"></div></div> <meta itemprop="datePublished" content="2014-12-10T10:19:22+00:00"/> <div id="gigya-share-btns-2"></div> </div> <div class="sidebar"> <aside class="layout-component layout-component-mpu"> <div class="ad-mpu mpu0-container"></aside> <aside class="layout-component layout-component-most-popular article-list" id="most_popular-0"> <div data-feed="http://www.standard.co.uk/layout_component/api-mmm"> <h2 class="box-title">Popular</h2> <ul class="simple-news-list"> </ul></div></aside> <aside class="layout-component layout-component-mpu"> <div class="ad-mpu mpu6-container"></aside> <aside class="layout-component layout-component-mpu"> <div class="ad-mpu mpu7-container"></aside> <aside class="visible"> <div id="onscrollmpu"></div> </aside> </div> </article> <div class="taboola"> <div id="taboola-below-article-thumbnails"></div> <script type="text/javascript"> window._taboola = window._taboola || []; _taboola.push({ mode: 'thumbnails-e', container: 'taboola-below-article-thumbnails', placement: 'Below Article Thumbnails', target_type: 'mix' }); </script><div id="taboola-below-article-thumbnails-2nd"></div> <script type="text/javascript"> window._taboola = window._taboola || []; _taboola.push({ mode: 'organic-thumbnails-d', container: 'taboola-below-article-thumbnails-2nd', placement: 'Below Article Thumbnails 2nd', target_type: 'mix' }); </script> </div> <div class="partner-slots"> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-1"> <div id="partner1"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner1'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_10__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-2"> <div id="partner2"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner2'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_11__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-3"> <div id="partner3"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner3'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_12__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-4"> <div id="partner4"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner4'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_13__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-5"> <div id="partner5"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner5'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_14__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="box-comments"> <h2 class="box-title">Comments</h2> <div id="commentsDiv"></div> <script type="text/javascript"> function onSiteLoginHandler(event) { var currentUrl = window.location.href; sessionStorage.setItem('indes_SourceURL', currentUrl); sessionStorage.setItem('indes_Type', 'comment'); document.location = "/login"; } function getLoggedIn(response) { if (response.user.UID === '') { $(window).load(function() { $('.gig-composebox-editor').css('display', 'none'); $('.gig-composebox-site-login').text('Login or register to comment'); }); } } var params = { categoryID: 'Comments', streamID: '9914644', version: 2, containerID: 'commentsDiv', cid:'', enabledShareProviders: 'facebook,twitter,yahoo,linkedin', useSiteLogin: true, onSiteLoginClicked: onSiteLoginHandler // registering to the onSiteLoginClicked event } gigya.comments.showCommentsUI(params); gigya.socialize.getUserInfo({ callback: getLoggedIn }); </script> </div> <div class="partner-slots"> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-6"> <div id="partner6"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner6'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_15__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-7"> <div id="partner7"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner7'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_16__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-8"> <div id="partner8"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner8'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_17__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-9"> <div id="partner9"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner9'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_18__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> <div class="es-partners-slot parter-slot-10"> <div id="partner10"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function () { googletag.display('partner10'); }); </script><div id="google_ads_iframe_/71347885/_main_eveningstandard_19__container__" style="border: 0pt none;"></div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <footer id="mastfooter"> <div class="stamp"></div> <ul class="follow"> <li>Follow us:</li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/https://www.facebook.com/eveningstandard" target="_blank" title="Facebook" class="icon-facebook"></a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/https://twitter.com/standardnews" target="_blank" title="Twitter" class="icon-twitter"></a> </li> </ul> <ul class="links"><li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/topics-list" title="">All Topics</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/author-list" title="">All Authors</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/archive" title="">Archive</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/terms-of-use-6902768.html" title="">Terms of use</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news/contact-evening-standard-7185764.html" title="">Contact Us</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/privacy-policy-6925316.html" title="">Privacy policy</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/cookie-policy-7785319.html" title="">Cookie policy</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/incoming/code-of-conduct-complaints-7467885.html" title="">Code of Conduct & Complaints</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://esimedia.co.uk/" title="">Advertisers</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/promotion-rules-6914218.html" title="">Promotion rules</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/incoming/external-contributors-terms-conditions-for-freelancers-bloggers-and-contributors-of-user-generated-8717657.html" title="">Contributors</a></li> <li><a href="/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/news" title="">Evening Standard</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/businessconnections" title="">Business Connections</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/esrentals/" title="">ES Rentals</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/" title="">Homes & Property</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.londonlive.co.uk/" title="">London Live</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.independent.co.uk/" title="">The Independent</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://www.thisislondontickets.co.uk/" title="">This is London Magazine</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://i100.independent.co.uk/" title="">i100</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/http://ijobs.independent.co.uk/" title="">iJobs</a></li> </ul> </footer> <div id="inskin8x8"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('inskin8x8'); }); </script> </div> <div id="outofpageslot"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('outofpageslot'); }); </script> </div> <div id="teads"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('teads'); }); </script> </div> <div id="teadsib"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('teadsib'); }); </script> </div> </div> <div class="region region-page-bottom">  <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/libraries/sitecatalyst/es_s_code.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript"></script> <script type="text/javascript"></script> <noscript><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406im_/http://independent.122.2o7.net/b/ss/independentuat/1/H.27.5--NS/0?[AQB]&cdp=3&[AQE]/5807832" height="1" width="1" alt=""></noscript>   </div> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/main.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/jquery_update/replace/jquery/1.10/jquery.min.js?v=1.10.2"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/misc/jquery.once.js?v=1.2"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/misc/drupal.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/libraries/hammerjs/hammer.min.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/modules/contrib/google_analytics/googleanalytics.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/adunit.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="//web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://s.skimresources.com/js/45843X1168260.skimlinks.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_device/js/ines_device.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_gigya/js/gigya.login.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_hacks/js/admin.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/profiles/ines/modules/ines_layout_config/js/layout_grid.feeds.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://www.standard.co.uk/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/js/gigya.session.js?nuzrq8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406js_/http://cdn.georiot.com/snippet.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script> var refreshLeader = function() { googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.pubads().refresh([gptAdSlots[0]]); }); console.log('refreshing leaderboard'); }; var refreshDmpu = function() { googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.pubads().refresh([gptAdSlots[4]]); googletag.pubads().refresh([gptAdSlots[5]]); googletag.pubads().refresh([gptAdSlots[6]]); }); console.log('refreshing dmpu'); }; </script> <script> function adMappingResize(){ // Get the dimensions of the viewport var width = $(window).width(), leaderSlot = $('#leaderboard div iframe').width(), dmpuSlot = $('#dmpu1 div iframe').height(); if (leaderSlot == 970 && width < 1050 || leaderSlot != 728 && width > 750 && width < 1050 || leaderSlot != 320 && width < 750) { refreshLeader(); } if(dmpuSlot == 600 && width < 620) { refreshDmpu(); } }; $(window).resize(adMappingResize); // When the browser changes size </script> <script type="text/javascript"> // function to show the whatsApp icon on compatible devices function hideWA() { if( /Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent) ) { $('.gig-button-container-whatsapp').addClass('gig-button-showmeWA'); } } // pass function with argument function loadShareBar(containerID) { var ag = new gigya.socialize.UserAction(); // Configure sharebar using the Open Graph meta ag.setTitle($("meta[property='og:title']").attr("content")); ag.setDescription($("meta[property='og:description']").attr("content")); ag.addMediaItem({ type: 'image', src: $("meta[property='og:image']").attr("content"), href: ag.permalink }); var showShareBarUI_params = { userAction: ag, shortURLs: 'never', showTooltips: true, containerID: containerID, // argument with div ID showCounts: 'right', iconsOnly: true, onLoad : hideWA, // function to run when sharebar has loaded, detects device and displays whatsApp share icon deviceType: 'auto', shareButtons: [{ provider: 'facebook', tooltip: 'Share on Facebook', enableCount: 'false', iconImgUp: '/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/facebookShareButton.png' }, { provider: 'Twitter', tooltip: 'Share on Twitter', enableCount: 'false', related: 'eveningstandard,standardnews', via: 'eveningstandard', iconImgUp: '/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/twitterShareButton.png' }, { // only shows on compatible devices provider: 'WhatsApp', tooltip: 'WhatsApp', enableCount: 'false', iconImgUp: '/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/whatsAppButton.png' }, { provider: 'email', tooltip: 'email', enableCount: 'false', iconImgUp: '/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/emailShareButton.png' }, { provider: 'share', tooltip: 'Share', enableCount: true, iconImgUp: '/sites/all/themes/ines_themes/ines_theme/img/blank.gif' }] } gigya.socialize.showShareBarUI(showShareBarUI_params); }; // call function with element into which share bar appears as argument, can run multiple times loadShareBar('gigya-share-btns-1'); loadShareBar('gigya-share-btns-2'); loadShareBar('gigya-share-btns-3'); </script>  <script> var _comscore = _comscore || []; _comscore.push({ c1: "2", c2: "10476312" }); (function() { var s = document.createElement("script"), el = document.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; s.async = true; s.src = (document.location.protocol == "https:" ? "https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406/https://sb" : "http://b") + ".scorecardresearch.com/beacon.js"; el.parentNode.insertBefore(s, el); })(); </script> <noscript> <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150921193406im_/http://b.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=10476312&cv=2.0&cj=1"/> </noscript>  <div id="overlay"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('overlay'); }); </script> </div> </body> </html>