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href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul></nav><nav class="orbit-header-links international"><ul><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a 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id="orbit-drawer-container" class="orbit-drawer-container"></div><section class="orbit-more-drawer geo orbit-default orbit-language-en b-r b-g-p" id="orbit-more-drawer"><div class="orbit-more-drawer-content"><ul class="more-domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a 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id="futurearticle20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health"><div id="headline-futurearticle20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health"><div class="article-headline " role="heading" aria-level="1"><div class="article-headline__collection"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/columns/coming-clean"><span>Coming Clean</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/tags/health">Health</a></div></div><div class="article-headline__text b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300" tabindex="-1">Are 'natural' products better than synthetic ones?</div><div class="article-share-tools"><a 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class="copyright__text b-reith-sans-font">(Image credit: Getty Images)</div><div class="hero-image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8cb3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8cb3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8cb3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8cb3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8cb3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8cb3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8cb3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8cb3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8cb3.jpg" alt="(Credit: Getty Images)" id=""/></picture></div></div><div class="article__container"><div class="article__main"><div class="article__subcontainer"><article class="article__body"><div class="article__author-unit"><div class="author-unit"><div class="author-unit__container author-unit__container--desktop"><a class="author-unit__text b-font-family-serif" target="" rel="" id="">By Anna Turns</a><span class="b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300">20th June 2022</span></div><div class="author-unit__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--large"></div></div></div></div><div class="article__body-content"><div class="article__intro b-font-family-serif">From sharks' livers to endangered plants – some claims about "natural" products should be interpreted with caution. Anna Turns investigates whether we should be more willing to use synthetic alternatives.</div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="drop-capped b-reith-sans-font drop-capped--future">F</div><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--drop-capped body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>From her organic wildflower meadow just south of Edinburgh, Sally Gouldstone harvests native botanical ingredients such as nettle, yarrow and wild carrot to make her "seed-to-skin" Seilich brand of personal care products. Gouldstone, who has a PhD in nature conservation, knows to leave most of her crop in the field so that bees and other pollinators can use them too. What she does take is transferred to a traditional copper still to produce essential oils using cold processing techniques.</p> <p>Gouldstone wasn't satisfied with just telling her customers everything she did was "natural" and "sustainable". Those words seem to be used everywhere – and without evidence to back them up, she felt they could be misused.</p> <p>Seilich is the UK's first company certified by the Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network, which means that the brand adheres to species-specific conservation targets. Every certified company's targets will be slightly different depending on the key species in the local area. In Seilich's case, their certification requires them to support native species of wildflower for bumblebees, solitary bees, honeybees, hoverflies, butterflies, moths and beetles.</p> <p>The Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network helps to conserve more than 13 million hectares (130,000 sq km) of habitat worldwide, according to Christine Lippai, the executive director of this not-for-profit. They say their certification is the best way to cut through any greenwashing in the natural skincare industry while avoiding foraged ingredients that could leave wild places depleted.</p> <p>"Nature is often used to sell products in the skincare and wellness industry but sometimes, businesses are simply exploiting nature for commercial benefit," says Gouldstone. "In the case of natural ingredients which are grown as crops, these systems may provide positive ecosystem services for example in supporting biodiversity, sequestering carbon, filtering water and so on, but when it comes to harvest time these benefits are lost in their entirety. For example, stored carbon is released as the soil is disturbed and wildlife habitat is destroyed before the creatures that depend on it have a chance to complete their lifecycle. But with a few tweaks, these systems could provide long-term benefits."</p> <p>In supermarkets and mainstream online retailers, far beyond the blossoming Seilich field margins, there are an alarming number of mixed messages and conflicting claims that contribute to consumer confusion.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="future/article/20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-p0cf8qty"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8qty.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8qty.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8qty.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8qty.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8qty.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8qty.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8qty.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8qty.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="If crops are harvested before the invertebrates that depend on them have completed their lifecycles, any benefits might be lost (Credit: Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8qty.jpg" alt="If crops are harvested before the invertebrates that depend on them have completed their lifecycles, any benefits might be lost (Credit: Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">If crops are harvested before the invertebrates that depend on them have completed their lifecycles, any benefits might be lost (Credit: Getty Images)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>If you want to do your bit for biodiversity and the climate, are you better off buying natural products – whose credentials might or might not be questionable – or synthetic ones produced in a factory? The answer is not as clear cut as you may think.</p> <p>Chemicals that cause harm to human health or to the environment can be found in everyday household products, from cleaning sprays and food packaging to furniture and cookware. <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220512-the-chemicals-that-linger-for-decades-in-your-blood">Some toxics end up inside our bodies</a> or stay in the soil, water and air that surrounds us for decades and sometimes longer. Some naturally occurring ingredients can have powerful effects on our bodies. Botanicals such as tea tree oil, eucalyptus and rosemary can trigger allergic reactions or skin irritation, and people have varying degrees of sensitivity. Natural products are not necessarily free of harmful chemicals, and synthetics ones are not always worse for us.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--future"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">In the US, UK and EU, natural and synthetic ingredients must meet the same regulatory requirements, regardless of the source</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>It can sometimes be confusing to know which products are natural and which are synthetic. One product might contain a mix of natural and synthetic constituents, while some chemicals are processed in order to mimic naturally occurring ones. The degree to which something is natural depends on how it was sourced and processed. Ingredients can be sourced from plants, minerals, marine resources or animals, or synthetically derived from fossil fuels. Then there's a spectrum of modification processes.</p> <p>Your instinct might be to think naturally occurring ingredients must be better for the environment than synthetics manufactured in a lab. But is that really the case?</p> <p>Regenerative or organic farming practices used to cultivate natural ingredients can support biodiversity and improve soil health, but, depending on how, when and where something is harvested, it <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-019-12622-7">might also increase some greenhouse gas emissions</a>.</p> <p>Manufacturers of lab-produced synthetics often argue that their methods don't exhaust the planet of its resources and that they're able to produce substances on a larger, more commercially viable scale without limitations from scarce natural ingredients. In some instances, sourcing natural ingredients isn't feasible or ethical. For example, the use of horseshoe crabs as a source for limulus amebocyte lysate (an important compound used for blood tests) <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/newsbeat-53333096">has been criticised by campaigners</a>. A <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://journals.plos.org/plosbiology/article?id=10.1371/journal.pbio.2006607">synthetically derived but chemically identical alternative</a> is being developed.</p> <p>Squalane, a natural oil found in the livers of sharks, is used to make cosmetics and personal care products such as deodorants, skincare and sun creams. Another shark oil known as squalene is used as an adjuvant to increase efficacy of some vaccines. The sourcing of these two ingredients threatens shark populations, and alternatives have been derived from olive oil but the availability and price of that supply fluctuates depending on weather-dependent harvests.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="future/article/20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-p0cf8s2q"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8s2q.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cf8s2q.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8s2q.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cf8s2q.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8s2q.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8s2q.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8s2q.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cf8s2q.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Naturally-sourced products might put greater demands on the environment than a synthetic alternative (Credit: Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cf8s2q.jpg" alt="Naturally-sourced products might put greater demands on the environment than a synthetic alternative (Credit: Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Naturally-sourced products might put greater demands on the environment than a synthetic alternative (Credit: Getty Images)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Now, there's another solution. Scientists at a Californian <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://amyris.com/ingredients">biotech company called Amyris</a> have developed pharmaceutical-grade synthetic equivalents made from ethically sourced sugar cane <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://bonsucro.com/">certified by BonSucro</a>. Squalane is "nature's best moisturiser" according to Mike Rytokoski, president of technology access for Amyris, which now produces more than half of the squalane used in beauty products across the world.</p> <p>Making synthetic squalane using a fermentation-based process guarantees greater purity, a longer shelf life and a more stable price compared to sourcing from sharks or olive trees. "The latest advances in biotechnology enable us to meet the growing demand for clean, sustainable ingredients not by depleting scarce natural resources, but through the creation of bio-identical ingredients through clean chemistry," said Rytokoski who expects green biotech to transform the beauty industry over the coming decade. "The most powerful driver for this transition [to greener chemistry solutions] is the consumer," he added. "Today's consumers are looking for products made with ingredients that are safer, more sustainable, ethically sourced and don't compromise on performance."</p></div></div></div></div><div><div class="article-body__callout-box"><div class="callout-box-card" style="width:342px"><div class="callout-box-card__container"><h3>Coming Clean</h3><h4></h4><div class="body"><div><p>Buzzwords like eco-friendly, sustainable and natural aren't regulated, so they might be meaningless when it comes to claims on product labelling.</p> <p>Nature-inspired is also flimsy – phrases like this are often accompanied by images of flowers, leaves or waterfalls to give the sense of something being wholesome but it’s just marketing jargon.</p> <p>Watch out for claims that something is "chemical-free" – it implies chemicals are "bad" but even water is a chemical.</p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Another case in point is Indian sandalwood, a fragrance used in beauty products. Each sandalwood tree takes 30 years to reach full maturity before its essential oil can be harvested, and <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://academic.oup.com/aobpla/article/doi/10.1093/aobpla/plt025/161683">overharvesting puts this plant at risk of extinction</a>. In the lab, Amyris has created a more affordable and bio-identical sandalwood molecule from widely abundant sugarcane using fermentation technology.</p> <p>But the majority of synthetic chemicals are made at scale in factories from fossil fuels using energy-intensive processes creating hazardous waste and toxic emissions. The chemicals industry is the production sector that uses the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/plastics-the-circular-economy-and">most energy in the world</a>, resulting in vast greenhouse gas emissions which fuel the climate crisis. Petrochemicals are used to make everything from packaging and clothing to laundry detergents and fertiliser. Plastics are made from petrochemicals too and <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.minderoo.org/plastic-waste-makers-index/findings/executive-summary/">98% of single-use plastics are manufactured from fossil fuels</a>.</p> <p><em>You might also like:</em></p> <ul> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change">How companies blame you for climate change</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220526-what-would-happen-if-we-stopped-using-plastic">Could we live without plastic?</a></li> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think">Why 'bio' and 'green' don't mean what you think</a></li> </ul> <p>Green chemist Richard Blackburn produces cosmetics, haircare and skincare ranges for his brand Dr Craft which are made from an untapped resource – food waste. The products are created using an energy-efficient and toxin-free extraction process. In his lab at the University of Leeds, the professor of sustainable materials designs mandarin cleansers using dried leftover peel from China's favourite fruit, bodycare products made with grape skin extracts or hair toners made with left over blackcurrent skins from British drink manufacturer Ribena. But, as Blackburn explained, natural isn't automatically better: "Dedicating lots of land to growing crops to make cosmetics is a terrible idea; we should be feeding the world first. But while we're making food, there are great resources. So it's about looking for sustainable sources and interesting chemistries that reliably demonstrate an activity that we can put into a material."</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--future"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">Dedicating lots of land to growing crops to make cosmetics is a terrible idea; we should be feeding the world first – Richard Blackburn</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Blackburn says that many people can be left feeling confused by chemical terms, but shouldn’t be. "Nature is doing chemistry all the time. Instead of being frightened of chemistry, people should be frightened of what the full lifecycle issues are." In the case of mandarins, 10 million tonnes of peel get incinerated every year. The processes he uses makes the remaining peel biodegradable so it's a win-win.</p> <p>Every formulation is a compromise between price, effectiveness, aesthetics, performance and ethics. It's a trade-off in which the environment often loses out. "If your hero ingredient has got a great sustainability story, don't then let the rest of your product be the same old rubbish we've been using forever," says Blackburn, who designs the whole range with that in mind.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--future"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">What's best for us isn't always what's best for the planet. We need to start thinking about the environmental footprints of every ingredient at a deeper level – Sally Gouldstone</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--future body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Quality control is a priority in terms of safety too. The Dr Craft team looks at every extraction in great detail using state-of-the-art chemical analysis. "When we extract an ingredient from mandarin peel, for example, we know how much of it we have got in the extract, but at the same time we don't want to unintentionally concentrate another ingredient that might occur naturally that then causes a problem," says Blackburn. "So we test it to make sure we’re not including anything we don't want as well. We're combining world-class chemical analytical facilities and knowledge with sustainability principles in a cosmetic lab."</p> <p>By designing out waste, finding regenerative solutions and developing sustainable alternatives, pioneers like Gouldstone, Rytokoski and Blackburn are leading the way towards a more circular economy based on chemical ingredients that are good for us and beneficial to the environment. </p> <p>Back in Scotland, Gouldstone explained that for decades, the consumption narrative has focused on negative human impacts. She insists that we can have a positive and regenerative impact: "Seilich shows that's possible. Because the plants we grow are native, they grow easily so it's really low-input farming that's absolutely scalable."</p> <p>Gouldstone adds the debate between synthetics and natural ingredients ultimately depends on finding a balance between human health and the health of the environment. "Those are not the same thing. What's best for us isn't always what's best for the planet. We need to start thinking about the environmental footprints of every ingredient at a deeper level."</p> <p><em>* Anna Turns is an environmental journalist and the author of <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.mombooks.com/book/go-toxic-free/"><strong>Go Toxic Free: Easy and Sustainable Ways to Reduce Chemical Pollution</strong></a></em></p> <p>--</p> <p><em>Join one million Future fans by liking us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.facebook.com/BBCFuture/"><strong><em>Facebook</em></strong></a><em>, or follow us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://twitter.com/BBC_Future"><strong><em>Twitter</em></strong></a><em> or </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220625015120/https://www.instagram.com/bbcfuture_official/"><strong><em>Instagram</em></strong></a><em>.</em></p> <p><em>If you liked this story, </em><a 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airline","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bsywhm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bsywhm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880613},"p0bs8d7h":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bs8d7h","_id":"62b41ee61f4b7b2dee12db91","copyright":"Koichi Kamoshida\u002FGetty","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1688,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002F8d\u002Fp0bs8d7h.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"Campaigners say many oil and gas companies advertise clean energy projects, when the majority of their spending goes towards fossil fuels (Credit: Koichi Kamoshida\u002FGetty)","synopsisShort":"Factories in Japan emit polluting fumes","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8d7h.jpg","title":"Crop Getty fossil fuel production .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bs8d7h","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8d7h.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880613},"p0bs8x57":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bs8x57","_id":"62b41ee61f4b7b037f503024","copyright":"Mark Ralston\u002FGetty","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002F8x\u002Fp0bs8x57.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"In 2008, a Shell advert was banned for claiming to provide sustainable energy by extracting oil from tar sands in Canada. (Credit: Mark Ralston\u002FGetty)","synopsisShort":"An excavator loads a truck with oil sands at Shell's tar sands mine in Alberta, Canada","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8x57.jpg","title":"_Getty tar sands oil .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bs8x57","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8x57.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880613},"p0bs8ygm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bs8ygm","_id":"62b41ee61f4b7b03623b4513","copyright":"Alamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002F8y\u002Fp0bs8ygm.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"Fossil fuel companies are far from the only ones to have adverts banned for misleading climate claims (Credit: Alamy)","synopsisShort":"Plant-based Alpro milk in a supermarket","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8ygm.jpg","title":"Alamy Alpro milk (1).jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bs8ygm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8ygm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880613},"p0bs8vrh":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bs8vrh","_id":"62b41ee61f4b7b2dee12db92","copyright":"Getty","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbs\u002F8v\u002Fp0bs8vrh.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"Companies are facing mounting scrutiny for making misleading climate claims in their advertising. (Credit: Getty)","synopsisShort":"Photo of passenger yet is shown on a billboard in the US","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8vrh.jpg","title":"hero getty.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bs8vrh","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220625015120\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bs8vrh.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880613}},"articles":{"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health","_id":"62b41ff81f4b7b035129a3f8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["future\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-turns"],"bodyIntro":"From sharks' livers to endangered plants – some claims about \"natural\" products should be interpreted with caution. Anna Turns investigates whether we should be more willing to use synthetic alternatives.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom her organic wildflower meadow just south of Edinburgh, Sally Gouldstone harvests native botanical ingredients such as nettle, yarrow and wild carrot to make her \"seed-to-skin\" Seilich brand of personal care products. Gouldstone, who has a PhD in nature conservation, knows to leave most of her crop in the field so that bees and other pollinators can use them too. What she does take is transferred to a traditional copper still to produce essential oils using cold processing techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGouldstone wasn't satisfied with just telling her customers everything she did was \"natural\" and \"sustainable\". Those words seem to be used everywhere – and without evidence to back them up, she felt they could be misused.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeilich is the UK's first company certified by the Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network, which means that the brand adheres to species-specific conservation targets. Every certified company's targets will be slightly different depending on the key species in the local area. In Seilich's case, their certification requires them to support native species of wildflower for bumblebees, solitary bees, honeybees, hoverflies, butterflies, moths and beetles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network helps to conserve more than 13 million hectares (130,000 sq km) of habitat worldwide, according to Christine Lippai, the executive director of this not-for-profit. They say their certification is the best way to cut through any greenwashing in the natural skincare industry while avoiding foraged ingredients that could leave wild places depleted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nature is often used to sell products in the skincare and wellness industry but sometimes, businesses are simply exploiting nature for commercial benefit,\" says Gouldstone. \"In the case of natural ingredients which are grown as crops, these systems may provide positive ecosystem services for example in supporting biodiversity, sequestering carbon, filtering water and so on, but when it comes to harvest time these benefits are lost in their entirety. For example, stored carbon is released as the soil is disturbed and wildlife habitat is destroyed before the creatures that depend on it have a chance to complete their lifecycle. But with a few tweaks, these systems could provide long-term benefits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn supermarkets and mainstream online retailers, far beyond the blossoming Seilich field margins, there are an alarming number of mixed messages and conflicting claims that contribute to consumer confusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cf8qty"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to do your bit for biodiversity and the climate, are you better off buying natural products – whose credentials might or might not be questionable – or synthetic ones produced in a factory? The answer is not as clear cut as you may think.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChemicals that cause harm to human health or to the environment can be found in everyday household products, from cleaning sprays and food packaging to furniture and cookware. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220512-the-chemicals-that-linger-for-decades-in-your-blood\"\u003ESome toxics end up inside our bodies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or stay in the soil, water and air that surrounds us for decades and sometimes longer. Some naturally occurring ingredients can have powerful effects on our bodies. Botanicals such as tea tree oil, eucalyptus and rosemary can trigger allergic reactions or skin irritation, and people have varying degrees of sensitivity. Natural products are not necessarily free of harmful chemicals, and synthetics ones are not always worse for us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In the US, UK and EU, natural and synthetic ingredients must meet the same regulatory requirements, regardless of the source","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt can sometimes be confusing to know which products are natural and which are synthetic. One product might contain a mix of natural and synthetic constituents, while some chemicals are processed in order to mimic naturally occurring ones. The degree to which something is natural depends on how it was sourced and processed. Ingredients can be sourced from plants, minerals, marine resources or animals, or synthetically derived from fossil fuels. Then there's a spectrum of modification processes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYour instinct might be to think naturally occurring ingredients must be better for the environment than synthetics manufactured in a lab. But is that really the case?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegenerative or organic farming practices used to cultivate natural ingredients can support biodiversity and improve soil health, but, depending on how, when and where something is harvested, it \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-019-12622-7\"\u003Emight also increase some greenhouse gas emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EManufacturers of lab-produced synthetics often argue that their methods don't exhaust the planet of its resources and that they're able to produce substances on a larger, more commercially viable scale without limitations from scarce natural ingredients. In some instances, sourcing natural ingredients isn't feasible or ethical. For example, the use of horseshoe crabs as a source for limulus amebocyte lysate (an important compound used for blood tests) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fnewsbeat-53333096\"\u003Ehas been criticised by campaigners\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjournals.plos.org\u002Fplosbiology\u002Farticle?id=10.1371\u002Fjournal.pbio.2006607\"\u003Esynthetically derived but chemically identical alternative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is being developed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESqualane, a natural oil found in the livers of sharks, is used to make cosmetics and personal care products such as deodorants, skincare and sun creams. Another shark oil known as squalene is used as an adjuvant to increase efficacy of some vaccines. The sourcing of these two ingredients threatens shark populations, and alternatives have been derived from olive oil but the availability and price of that supply fluctuates depending on weather-dependent harvests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cf8s2q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, there's another solution. Scientists at a Californian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famyris.com\u002Fingredients\"\u003Ebiotech company called Amyris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have developed pharmaceutical-grade synthetic equivalents made from ethically sourced sugar cane \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbonsucro.com\u002F\"\u003Ecertified by BonSucro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Squalane is \"nature's best moisturiser\" according to Mike Rytokoski, president of technology access for Amyris, which now produces more than half of the squalane used in beauty products across the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaking synthetic squalane using a fermentation-based process guarantees greater purity, a longer shelf life and a more stable price compared to sourcing from sharks or olive trees. \"The latest advances in biotechnology enable us to meet the growing demand for clean, sustainable ingredients not by depleting scarce natural resources, but through the creation of bio-identical ingredients through clean chemistry,\" said Rytokoski who expects green biotech to transform the beauty industry over the coming decade. \"The most powerful driver for this transition [to greener chemistry solutions] is the consumer,\" he added. \"Today's consumers are looking for products made with ingredients that are safer, more sustainable, ethically sourced and don't compromise on performance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EBuzzwords like eco-friendly, sustainable and natural aren't regulated, so they might be meaningless when it comes to claims on product labelling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENature-inspired is also flimsy – phrases like this are often accompanied by images of flowers, leaves or waterfalls to give the sense of something being wholesome but it’s just marketing jargon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatch out for claims that something is \"chemical-free\" – it implies chemicals are \"bad\" but even water is a chemical.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Coming Clean","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother case in point is Indian sandalwood, a fragrance used in beauty products. Each sandalwood tree takes 30 years to reach full maturity before its essential oil can be harvested, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facademic.oup.com\u002Faobpla\u002Farticle\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1093\u002Faobpla\u002Fplt025\u002F161683\"\u003Eoverharvesting puts this plant at risk of extinction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In the lab, Amyris has created a more affordable and bio-identical sandalwood molecule from widely abundant sugarcane using fermentation technology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the majority of synthetic chemicals are made at scale in factories from fossil fuels using energy-intensive processes creating hazardous waste and toxic emissions. The chemicals industry is the production sector that uses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eea.europa.eu\u002Fpublications\u002Fplastics-the-circular-economy-and\"\u003Emost energy in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, resulting in vast greenhouse gas emissions which fuel the climate crisis. Petrochemicals are used to make everything from packaging and clothing to laundry detergents and fertiliser. Plastics are made from petrochemicals too and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.minderoo.org\u002Fplastic-waste-makers-index\u002Ffindings\u002Fexecutive-summary\u002F\"\u003E98% of single-use plastics are manufactured from fossil fuels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EYou might also like:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change\"\u003EHow companies blame you for climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220526-what-would-happen-if-we-stopped-using-plastic\"\u003ECould we live without plastic?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think\"\u003EWhy 'bio' and 'green' don't mean what you think\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGreen chemist Richard Blackburn produces cosmetics, haircare and skincare ranges for his brand Dr Craft which are made from an untapped resource – food waste. The products are created using an energy-efficient and toxin-free extraction process. In his lab at the University of Leeds, the professor of sustainable materials designs mandarin cleansers using dried leftover peel from China's favourite fruit, bodycare products made with grape skin extracts or hair toners made with left over blackcurrent skins from British drink manufacturer Ribena. But, as Blackburn explained, natural isn't automatically better: \"Dedicating lots of land to growing crops to make cosmetics is a terrible idea; we should be feeding the world first. But while we're making food, there are great resources. So it's about looking for sustainable sources and interesting chemistries that reliably demonstrate an activity that we can put into a material.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Dedicating lots of land to growing crops to make cosmetics is a terrible idea; we should be feeding the world first – Richard Blackburn","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBlackburn says that many people can be left feeling confused by chemical terms, but shouldn’t be. \"Nature is doing chemistry all the time. Instead of being frightened of chemistry, people should be frightened of what the full lifecycle issues are.\" In the case of mandarins, 10 million tonnes of peel get incinerated every year. The processes he uses makes the remaining peel biodegradable so it's a win-win.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery formulation is a compromise between price, effectiveness, aesthetics, performance and ethics. It's a trade-off in which the environment often loses out. \"If your hero ingredient has got a great sustainability story, don't then let the rest of your product be the same old rubbish we've been using forever,\" says Blackburn, who designs the whole range with that in mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What's best for us isn't always what's best for the planet. We need to start thinking about the environmental footprints of every ingredient at a deeper level – Sally Gouldstone","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EQuality control is a priority in terms of safety too. The Dr Craft team looks at every extraction in great detail using state-of-the-art chemical analysis. \"When we extract an ingredient from mandarin peel, for example, we know how much of it we have got in the extract, but at the same time we don't want to unintentionally concentrate another ingredient that might occur naturally that then causes a problem,\" says Blackburn. \"So we test it to make sure we’re not including anything we don't want as well. We're combining world-class chemical analytical facilities and knowledge with sustainability principles in a cosmetic lab.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy designing out waste, finding regenerative solutions and developing sustainable alternatives, pioneers like Gouldstone, Rytokoski and Blackburn are leading the way towards a more circular economy based on chemical ingredients that are good for us and beneficial to the environment. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in Scotland, Gouldstone explained that for decades, the consumption narrative has focused on negative human impacts. She insists that we can have a positive and regenerative impact: \"Seilich shows that's possible. Because the plants we grow are native, they grow easily so it's really low-input farming that's absolutely scalable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGouldstone adds the debate between synthetics and natural ingredients ultimately depends on finding a balance between human health and the health of the environment. \"Those are not the same thing. What's best for us isn't always what's best for the planet. We need to start thinking about the environmental footprints of every ingredient at a deeper level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E* Anna Turns is an environmental journalist and the author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mombooks.com\u002Fbook\u002Fgo-toxic-free\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGo Toxic Free: Easy and Sustainable Ways to Reduce Chemical Pollution\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E or \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=fut.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called \"The Essential List\" – a handpicked selection of stories from BBC \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFuture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eand \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health-12"}],"collection":["future\u002Fcolumn\u002Fcoming-clean"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-20T01:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Are 'natural' products better than synthetic ones?","headlineShort":"Why 'natural' is not always better","image":["p0cf8cb3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From sharks' livers to endangered plants – some claims about \"natural\" products should be interpreted with caution. Should we be more willing to use synthetic alternatives?","summaryShort":"Some 'natural' products can contain ethically questionable ingredients","tag":["tag\u002Fhealth","tag\u002Fenvironment"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-20T00:00:52.051465Z","entity":"article","guid":"b4a17518-d212-4084-882e-34c5135f52e3","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-22T08:41:37.133523Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-synthetic-or-natural-which-is-best-for-climate-and-health","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880611},"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change","_id":"62b41ff81f4b7b03382476ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["future\u002Fauthor\u002F20150417-william-park"],"bodyIntro":"Businesses shape how we talk about climate change, and sometimes this can stop us from paying attention to their actions.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's an advert that is infamous in environmental circles. A man who appears to be an indigenous American paddles a canoe downstream. He starts in relatively pristine waters, but soon paddles alongside discarded newspapers, past industrial buildings, and finally pulls his canoe ashore on a bank littered with waste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some people have a deep, abiding respect for the natural beauty that was once this country,\" reads the voiceover. \"And some people don't,\" it continues, as a motorist throws litter from their window, spilling at the feet of the canoeist. \"People start pollution and people can stop it,\" the voiceover concludes, as the camera zooms in on a tear rolling down the man's cheek. The advert became known as the \"crying Indian\" campaign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe advert was later \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chicagotribune.com\u002Fopinion\u002Fcommentary\u002Fct-perspec-indian-crying-environment-ads-pollution-1123-20171113-story.html\"\u003Eheavily criticised for passing the responsibility of reducing litter pollution onto consumers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and for employing an Italian American actor to play the role of an indigenous American), but when it first aired in 1971 it won awards for its environmental message, says Finis Dunaway, professor of American environmental history at Trent University in Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe advert was paid for by Keep America Beautiful, a group established in the 1950s by leaders from packaging companies like the American Can Company and the Owens-Illinois Glass Company, and other public figures. Keep America Beautiful campaign against littering, but have also lobbied against bottle bills and legislation that would have required packaging to be returnable or recyclable rather than disposable, says Dunaway, who is also the author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fchicago\u002FS\u002Fbo13666193.html\"\u003ESeeing Green: The Use and Abuse of American Environmental Images\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERather than addressing the root cause of America's litter problem – the fact that there was much more disposable packaging after World War Two – their advertising campaigns focused on the bad behaviour of some consumers, he says. \"Images and feelings were being manipulated by corporations to put the onus on the individual.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c4t6ln"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A boy sits in plastic waste (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInitially, \"environmental groups like the Audubon Society, the Sierra Club – in other words big mainstream groups – were part of the Advisory Board for Keep America Beautiful\", says Dunaway. \"Many of these groups resigned their membership. They no longer wanted to be associated with Keep America Beautiful after this ad, because they saw it as what we today call greenwashing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKeep American Beautiful say they have \"retired the 'Crying Indian' campaign and assigned all intellectual property rights to The National Congress of American Indians\". They also say they will continue to campaign against litter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilar \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fcommentisfree\u002F2021\u002Faug\u002F23\u002Fbig-oil-coined-carbon-footprints-to-blame-us-for-their-greed-keep-them-on-the-hook\"\u003Ecriticisms have been levelled at terms like \"carbon footprints\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which was first coined in a 2005 TV advert from BP. The advert appears to show members of the public being stopped in the street and asked what is \"their carbon footprint\". Most look a bit perplexed. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20111111232036\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bp.com\u002Fliveassets\u002Fbp_internet\u002Fglobalbp\u002FSTAGING\u002Fglobal_assets\u002Fdownloads\u002FA\u002FABP_ADV_what_on_earth_is_a_carbon_footprint.pdf\"\u003EBP explains\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the carbon footprint is \"the amount of carbon dioxide emitted due to your daily activities – from washing a load of laundry to driving a carload of kids to school\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Images and feelings were being manipulated by corporations to put the onus on the individual – Finis Dunaway","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe question of who is responsible for climate change is incredibly complicated, explains my colleague Jocelyn Timperley in an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200618-climate-change-who-is-to-blame-and-why-does-it-matter\"\u003Earticle for BBC Future's Climate Emotions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E series. Is it the companies who supply goods and services or the consumers who create the demand?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the one hand, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cdp.net\u002Fen\u002Farticles\u002Fmedia\u002Fnew-report-shows-just-100-companies-are-source-of-over-70-of-emissions\"\u003E70% of greenhouse gas emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the past two decades can be attributed to 100 fossil fuel producers, according to a report from the CDP (formerly the Carbon Disclosure Project). So their role is clearly important. But rich, Western consumers also contribute a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41560-020-0579-8\"\u003Edisproportionate amount of emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through the choices they make. Another assessment, co-authored by Diana Ivanova, a research fellow specialising in household consumption from the Sustainability Research Institute at the University of Leeds in the UK, suggests \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fonlinelibrary.wiley.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.1111\u002Fjiec.12371\"\u003Ehouseholds contribute more than 60% of global greenhouse gas emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It depends on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F352647950_The_making_of_the_corporate_carbon_footprint_the_politics_behind_emission_scoping\"\u003Ewhom you hold responsible for Scope 3 emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which are \"indirect\" emissions resulting from using goods and services, for example.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut I am not just interested in whether it is fair to hold individuals responsible for climate change, I want to know how the debate was shaped in that direction. How did companies and corporations influence the language and images we associate with climate change?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUnder attack\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Keep America Beautiful advert was broadcast a year after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200420-earth-day-2020-how-an-environmental-movement-was-born\"\u003Ethe first Earth Day in 1970\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The climate was a hot topic; books like Rachel Carson's Silent Spring had inspired grassroots climate activists and the public had recently witnessed the awe-inspiring Earthrise image from the Apollo missions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c4tbv6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Earthrise (Credit: Nasa)","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYoung people were leading a resistance movement to climate change. Companies were \"very much sensing they were coming under attack\", says Dunaway. Ahead of Earth Day in 1970, \"the National Soft Drink Association [now going by the name American Beverage Association] sent out a memo to their members saying what to do if protesters showed up at [their] bottling plants to protest disposable containers. Their answer was to try to appease the crowd by handing out Coke.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EIn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcoming-clean\"\u003EComing Clean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, BBC Future uncovers the tricks and misdirections that we should all look out for when we see claims about sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThe series has looked at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims\"\u003Eadverts that were banned for misleading climate claims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and why \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think\"\u003Ecorporate climate language often uses vague terms like \"green\", \"eco\" and \"natural\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EOur mission is to give you the tools to spot verifiable facts from meaningless buzzwords, and to provide a rational explanation of greenwashing tactics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"COMING CLEAN","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECooperative approaches like this, often led by lobbyists or interest groups, showed companies could be effective in limiting new regulations. Public opinion could be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.co.uk\u002Fbooks?hl=en&lr=&id=RK6EcTfuiR4C&oi=fnd&pg=PR1&dq=how+lobbyists+can+soften+public+sentiment&ots=-Vm1g5TNcg&sig=NqrTSn_aqpomYyPr5498UeR-fkA#v=snippet&q=public%20opinion&f=false\"\u003Eshaped by the language and images brands used\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and some of the wind could be taken out of public campaigns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1992, the United Nations held the Conference on Environment and Development (UNCED) in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The conference, which came to be known as the Rio Earth Summit, aimed to address inequalities in global development and reduce dependence on fossil fuels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Borrowing a strategy from the past, business recognised that the best defence against the environmental movements' arguments for more government control over corporate activities was attack,\" wrote James Rowe, now an associate professor of environmental studies at the University of Victoria in Canada, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fescholarship.org\u002Fcontent\u002Fqt5dq43315\u002Fqt5dq43315.pdf\"\u003Ein 2005\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Corporate social responsibility, he says, became the \"preferred strategy for quelling popular discontent\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The World Business Council emerged in response to the Rio Summit,\" says Jessica Dempsey, a political ecologist at the University of British Columbia in Canada. \"It was this kind of moment of reckoning with the environment and development challenges that were coming to a head in the late 1980s.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The World Business Council was formed, like many other interest groups, to grow their power,\" says Dempsey. \"[They recognised] that they could be more influential in these multilateral forums if they worked together. So the world's largest corporations were like 'we should work together because we have interests that are at threat'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn response to this, \"just before Rio, Stephan Schmidheiny, founder of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD), pleaded with business that unless 'we promote self-regulation… we face government regulation under pressure from the public',\" says Rowe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cooperative action was a success, Rowe continues. He quotes two representatives of the International Chamber of Commerce (who describe themselves as the \"voice of world business\"), as saying:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In general, the feeling among business participants was that the substantive output of UNCED was positive. It could have taken a negative stance on… the role of business, and there was at one time the real possibility that the conference might be pushed to lay down detailed guidelines for the operations of transnational corporations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut, says Rowe, business \"successfully fended off the threat\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe WBCSD say the need for the \"sustainable transformation of the systems that govern our world is... more urgent than ever before\". The ICC's secretary general, John Denton, says \"significant policy changes\" will be needed to reach net-zero emissions by 2050. \"We believe the best way to get those reforms right is to work hand-in-hand with the business community to design decarbonisation plans that work in the real world.\" Schmidheiny was asked to comment on his quote, but declined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOpting in\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjournals.sagepub.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1177\u002F25148486211030432\"\u003EWithout an agreement from the governments of the 179 countries represented at the summit for tighter regulations on fossil fuel use\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E,\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E it was left to companies, and the lobbyists who represent them, to self-regulate, writes Dempsey along with her co-authors Audrey Irvine-Broque and Adriana DiSilvestro in a paper from 2021. This is called free-market environmentalism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFree-market environmentalism is based on a principle of economics called \"self-interest\" whereby if companies act in their own best interest their output will benefit the consumer. In the case of free-market environmentalism, if companies can win over more customers by acting in a sustainable way, then they will do so, and less responsible companies will be penalised by the market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut free-market environmentalism assumes that consumers are able to tell which companies are acting responsibly (which as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcoming-clean\"\u003EComing Clean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has covered in the past, can be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think\"\u003Edifficult to tell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, particularly when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims\"\u003Esome advertising is misleading\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), and are motivated to choose the most environmental option – which might not always be the best or cheapest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Increasingly there's a recognition that [free-market environmentalism] failed – Jessica Dempsey","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECompanies might profit from promoting an environmental image without actually working to reduce their emissions, says Dempsey. \"And that's the big problem of greenwashing, which has now become widely understood as a real outcome of free-market environmentalism,\" she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDunaway gives another example of a method plastic packaging manufacturers have used to promote a sustainable image in a confusing way: resin identification codes. You might be familiar with codes printed on plastics that look a little like recycling symbols but which have a number in their centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c4tkg9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A package with a resin identification code (Credit: Alamy\u002FMarcus Harrison)","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The Society of the Plastics Industry [now called the Plastic Industry Association] took the recycling logo, which is in the public domain so it's not copyrighted, and they made it a bit more triangular in shape and put numbers in it to create the resin codes,\" says Dunaway. \"It telegraphs to the consumer that this is something that is recyclable, and maybe perhaps even has been recycled before.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe PIA insists that the resin identification codes were never intended as an indication of recyclability to be used by consumers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, of the seven different plastic resin codes codes – which each represent a different polymer, from high-density polyethylene to PVC – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC2873020\u002F\"\u003Eonly a couple are widely recyclable and the others are either difficult or impossible to recycle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen there are those other companies who might make more money selling to consumers who are not particularly motivated by climate issues. \"Increasingly there's a recognition that [free-market environmentalism] failed, in part because it has been voluntary,\" concludes Dempsey. \"There's still a lot of money to be made by not participating.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECompanies which produce \"green\" goods tend to have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lse.ac.uk\u002Fgranthaminstitute\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2020\u002F06\u002FGRI_policy-report_Does-it-pay-for-firms-to-go-green-1.pdf\"\u003Elower profitability\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to a 2020 report from Misato Sato, a research fellow at the London School of Economics, and her colleagues. This is in part because these firms operate less efficiently. Added to this, there is still a high demand for less-sustainable products, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp09z6d1s\u002Fhow-suvs-came-to-rule-the-world-at-the-cost-of-the-climate\"\u003Elike SUVs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which are among the most popular models of car.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it might seem harmless for the public to be encouraged to reduce their emissions and recycle, Dunaway warns it could have a downside. \"The disconnect between the severity of the climate crisis versus so much focus on these little actions [like recycling or picking up litter], that not only distract from corporate responsibility, but also don't seem to [make] a difference – it's trying to encourage a feeling of empowerment, but I think it sometimes can actually be disempowering.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKeep America Beautiful reprised the \"crying Indian\" figure in later adverts that repeated similar themes about indigenous people's \"reverence\" for the land. While today these adverts look out of touch, they created a narrative that lasted for decades that climate change could be tackled from our own homes, concludes Dunaway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile there is certainly more that we could all be doing, where should we be looking for more action on the climate?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"An important question is who has the most power and agency for a change that will bring sizable cuts to emissions quickly,\" explains the University of Leeds's Diana Ivanova. \"Which really points the finger more to governments and corporations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWe have contacted BP\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and American Beverage Association for comment. At present, we have not received a reply.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWilliam Park is a senior journalist at BBC Future. You can find him on Twitter: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fwilliamhpark\"\u003E@williamhpark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E or\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=fut.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called \"The Essential List\" – a handpicked selection of stories from\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFuture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change-12"}],"collection":["future\u002Fcolumn\u002Fcoming-clean"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-05T14:22:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How companies blame you for climate change","headlineShort":"How companies blame you for emissions","image":["p0c4t600"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Businesses shape how we talk about climate change, and sometimes this can stop us from paying attention to their actions.","summaryShort":"Businesses are good at passing on responsibility","tag":["tag\u002Fclimate"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-04T23:00:32.296698Z","entity":"article","guid":"576c158a-ce46-496e-a3f2-6e8c1d778dc8","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-06T15:42:52.675368Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220504-why-the-wrong-people-are-blamed-for-climate-change","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880612},"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think","_id":"62b4200b1f4b7b05263f20cc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["future\u002Fauthor\u002Fisabelle-gerretsen"],"bodyIntro":"The language brands use to promote their environmental sustainability can be misleading and unverifiable. How do you spot a buzzword from a real claim?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EGreen. Bio. Natural. Clean. Organic. Eco-friendly. Sustainable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThese are words we are confronted with constantly: on billboards, online and on TV. They are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-59119693\"\u003Epervasive in advertising\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and appear on the products we see on supermarket shelves. But what do they really mean and how do companies use them to convince environmentally conscious consumers to buy their products?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003ERising public enthusiasm for climate action has led to a surge in corporate climate claims, making it increasingly difficult for consumers to distinguish between good environmental practices and misleading statements, a practice now referred to as \"greenwashing\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThe common denominator for all greenwashing is that it exploits a grey zone – it's misleading, but it can be true, according to Peter Seele, a professor in corporate social responsibility and business ethics at the Università della Svizzera italiana in Switzerland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"That's the tricky part of greenwashing and why companies get away with it,\" he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EIn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcoming-clean\"\u003EComing Clean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, BBC Future uncovers the tricks and misdirections that we should all look out for when we see claims about sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EIn a previous article in the series, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims\"\u003EIsabelle Gerretsen reported on the adverts that were banned for misleading climate claims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But not all misdirections are so clear. Sometimes companies use environmental buzzwords which, while not innaccurate, give a misleading or unverifiable sense of sustainability. In this article, we explain why this language is so convicing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"COMING CLEAN","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreenwashing is rampant in online marketing, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fcommission\u002Fpresscorner\u002Fdetail\u002Fen\u002Fip_21_269\"\u003Estudy by the European Union\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and national consumer protection authorities. It found many environmental claims on companies' websites are exaggerated, false and potentially illegal. In an analysis of online traders last year, the EU Commission assessed 344 \"seemingly dubious claims\" and found that in 42% of cases national authorities had reason to believe the claim was false, deceptive or could potentially qualify as unfair commercial practices under EU rules.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EVague language is a common telltale sign of greenwashing, says Seele. Brands will use vague buzzwords such as \"green\", \"sustainable\" or \"eco-friendly\" to make their business seem environmentally conscious, but without substantiation, they \"don't mean much in themselves\", he says. \"There's no ultimate definition of what sustainability is. It's an empty word.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EAnother trend is companies linking sustainability to other issues that consumers care about, such as personal health. \"The term 'healthy' can very easily be attached to 'planet', 'people' and 'lifestyle',\" says Sarah Duncan, a sustainability consultant and author of the Ethical Business Book. The food and cosmetics industry use words like \"clean\", \"pure\" and \"natural\" to portray their products as being both good for the planet and people's health, she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bydgzh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A tote bag with the word \"green\" (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreenwashing is pervasive in the fashion industry, too. According to a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fchangingmarkets.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2021\u002F07\u002FSyntheticsAnonymous_FinalWeb.pdf\"\u003Ereport by the campaign group Changing Markets Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 59% of environmental claims made by European fashion brands, including Zara and H&M, are unsubstantiated or misleading to consumers and flouted guidelines set by the UK's Competition and Markets Authority (CMA). The claims were evaluated against \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.uk\u002Fgovernment\u002Fpublications\u002Fgreen-claims-code-making-environmental-claims\u002Fgreen-claims-and-your-business\"\u003Eofficial CMA guidelines on climate claims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and independently verified by the Changing Markets Foundation. The CMA’s guidelines include criteria such as that claims must reflect the whole life cycle of the brand, product, business or service and durability and disposability information must be clearly explained and labeled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EZara and H&M were approached for comment. A spokesperson for Zara says \"[the report] has noted that Zara was the most comprehensive at substantiating and verifying its sustainability claims, and that it clearly communicates material characteristics across its main collections\". At time of publication, H&M had not replied.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EBrands are eager to highlight the sustainability of the materials in their clothes, and will frequently use words such as \"organic\", \"natural\", \"recyclable\" or \"recycled\", says Sigal Segev, associate professor of advertising at Florida International University.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"People tend to confuse organic with environmentally friendly,\" she says. \"Maybe they don't use pesticides when they grow the cotton, but what happens next? There are so many phases in the product life cycle – what happens after you harvest the cotton and process it?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"Organic cotton is highly water intensive and has led to huge amounts of degradation,\" she says. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fnature11069\"\u003EOrganic cotton yields might be lower than conventional cotton yields\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meaning more water and land is needed per kilogram of cotton produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bydjc0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cotton clothing (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EGenerally, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC5316925\u002F\"\u003Ecotton is grown in drought-stressed areas of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so whether it is organic or not its production puts pressure on a fragile environment. It takes roughly 1kg of conventional cotton lint to make one pair of jeans, but this requires around 8,500 litres (1,870 gallons) of water on average, according to a report by the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fawsassets.panda.org\u002Fdownloads\u002Fcotton_for_printing_long_report.pdf\"\u003EWorld Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EOrsola de Castro, co-founder and global creative director of non-profit Fashion Revolution which campaigns for reform of the fashion industry, says environmental buzzwords distract from many fashion brands' business models, which are fueled by rapid consumption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"Would the world be a better place if we produced the same amount of materials, but it was all organic?\" she says. \"Probably not. Anything that is borne out of excess will have an excessive carbon footprint.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"Are materials still natural if they are drenched in chemicals? They may be natural at the start of the process, but not at the very end,\" adds de Castro. \"Polyester, whether it's recycled or not, still sheds millions of microfibres.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fportals.iucn.org\u002Flibrary\u002Fsites\u002Flibrary\u002Ffiles\u002Fdocuments\u002F2017-002-En.pdf\"\u003EThe International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that textiles produce 35% of the microplastics entering the world's oceans, in the form of synthetic microfibres. A single clothes wash could release more than 700,000 microfibres into wastewater, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0025326X16307639\"\u003Estudy by researchers at the University of Plymouth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy are consumers susceptible to greenwashing?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EBrands use positive language that appeals to consumers' social responsibility and environmental consciousness, says Dirk Holtbrügge, chair of international management at Friedrich-Alexander-University in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"We tend to think in opposites. Green is always positive, grey is always negative,\" he says. For example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC7027086\u002F\"\u003Ewe associate the colour green with \"joy\", \"pleasure\" and \"contentment\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Green has a positive impact. We assume companies [promoting green products] are doing something positive,\" adds Holtbrügge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bydrq0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tomatoes with \"bio\" stickers (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003ELikewise the prefix \"bio\" – for example, in words like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fpii\u002FS1573521416300070\"\u003E\"biodegradable\" or \"bio-based\" elicits positive emotions in consumers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and can help to change feelings towards terms that are more ambiguous like \"organic\". Similar patterns have been observed with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.liebertpub.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.1089\u002Feco.2010.0071\"\u003Eprefix \"eco\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EIn the image above, tomatoes sold in Germany are labelled with an EU-regulated \"Bio\" sticker, which means they are grown following guidelines on organic farming, but other uses of the word \"bio\" might not follow such strict rules.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003ESustainability is becoming a priority for many consumers and brands are tapping into that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ESustainability experts offer this advice:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBe wary of vague buzzwords \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECheck whether a claim is substantiated\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECheck certificates and whether these have been awarded by an independent organisation\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003EUse online transparency tools, such as the Ethical Consumer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECheck company ownership  \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"What should you look out for when checking a company's claims?","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unilever.com\u002Fnews\u002Fpress-and-media\u002Fpress-releases\u002F2017\u002Freport-shows-a-third-of-consumers-prefer-sustainable-brands\u002F\"\u003EUnilever market research survey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of 20,000 people in five countries found that a third of consumers are choosing to buy from brands they believe are doing social or environmental good. And 21% of people said they would actively choose brands if they highlighted their sustainability credentials more clearly on their packaging and in their marketing, the survey found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"Why are greenwashing words so convincing? Maybe because we want to be easily convinced and to feel like we're making the right purchasing decision,\" says Duncan. \"In some respects, marketing [teams] are grasping for words that consumers want to hear.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"Green is the new black in many ways,\" says Segev. \"It's become a status symbol. Being an environmentally conscious consumer adds to people's sense of self.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedaily.com\u002Freleases\u002F2013\u002F10\u002F131010124829.htm\"\u003EA study by Baylor University in Texas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E analysed the motivations for buying a hybrid car of consumers aged 60 and older. They found that their satisfaction was influenced by social values, such as prestige and pride, as well as value and price.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In a survey of 7,500 adults around the world, 44% said they did not trust sustainability claims","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"The findings suggest that elderly consumers are concerned about how they appear to others when driving a hybrid car,\" the researchers said. \"They believe that driving a hybrid car builds a positive self-image of the people who drive them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EGreenwashing claims also tap into consumers' sense of guilt. \"The guilt is kicking in,\" says Segev. \"People are thinking 'this is the least I can do, not only for myself, but also for future generations'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bydp82"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A wool label (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"These claims make us feel better about our overconsumption, our consumerism,\" says Duncan. \"But the reality is that we should all be buying less.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThen there's the fact that most consumers are not in a position to fact-check these claims and look into the details. \"We have to rely on the claims made by brands because we don't have the time, the resources or the expertise to check and verify them,\" says Holtbrügge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EIn a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.capgemini.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2020\u002F07\u002F20-06_9880_Sustainability-in-CPR_Final_Web-1.pdf\"\u003Esurvey of 7,500 adults around the world by the Capgemini Research Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, almost half believed that they did not have the necessary information to verify the sustainability claims on products, and 44% said they did not trust these claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThe same language is often used in legitimate and misleading climate claims, making it very difficult for the consumer to distinguish between the two, says Segev.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EShe discovered this when she carried out an experiment for a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F02650487.2020.1765656\"\u003E2020 study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Together with other researchers, Segev selected an advert for storage freezer bags and created two versions: one which complied with the US \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ftc.gov\u002Fnews-events\u002Fmedia-resources\u002Ftruth-advertising\u002Fgreen-guides\"\u003EFederal Trade Commission's Green Guides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and featured substantiated, clear claims, and the other which featured the same claims, such as \"manufactured with 25% less plastic\", but without substantiation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EParticipants were unable to draw a distinction between the two and rated the misleading advert as less deceptive than the legitimate version. \"It was only when we gave them guidelines on how to spot greenwashing, that they could detect the difference,\" says Segev.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003ESeele says consumers have a responsibility to call out greenwashing. \"The less people speak up, the more likely we will have even more greenwashing,\" he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EBut given all these pitfalls, how can consumers avoid greenwashing?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EBe wary of vague claims that aren't backed up or green packaging and labels, which don't provide any further information, says Duncan. Consumers can also use websites such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ethicalconsumer.org\u002F\"\u003EEthical Consumer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to find out more about a brand's sustainability record. \"It goes behind the scenes in every area and is a good way to get to grips with products,\" she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bydlrj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A woman looks at a beauty product (Credit: Getty Images)","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EThere are also transparency tools for specific industries, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapparelcoalition.org\u002Fthe-higg-index\u002F\"\u003Ethe Higg Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, launched by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, which assesses fashion companies' sustainability record throughout the supply chain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"We are putting the data in the hands of consumers,\" says Amina Razvi, executive of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. \"They can click on a product claim [to check] the substantiation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EEnvironmental certificates, awarded by third parties, are another tool available to consumers looking to fact-check green claims and understand more about the products they are buying.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EConcerned about allegations of greenwashing, many companies are now turning to independent organisations, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.globalecolabelling.net\u002F\"\u003EGlobal Ecolabelling Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.climateneutral.org\u002F\"\u003EClimate Neutral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to legitimise their climate claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003EBut labels can be confusing as many companies and industries have also developed their own certificates and benchmarks. Cosmetics giant L'Oreal, for example, gives \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.loreal.com\u002Fen\u002Farticles\u002Fcommitments\u002Four-methodology\u002F\"\u003Eevery product an A-E ranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, based on its carbon and water footprint, as well as the packaging used through its lifecycle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003ESeele says this is a form of \"self regulation\" and that it has its limits. \"Certificates can also be part of greenwashing. Some are reliable and some are not,\" he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fchangingmarkets.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2022\u002F03\u002FLICENCE-TO-GREENWASH-FULL-REPORT.pdf\"\u003EA report from the Changing Markets Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in 2022 looked at 10 of the largest third-party certification schemes in the UK and scored them on how clear they were about how their certificates were measured (on factors like transparency and independence). Five of the 10 schemes were found to not clearly address 50% or more of their factors, meaning it is difficult to independently verify those schemes certificates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"The average consumer cannot really tell whether an independent organisation has inspected this product and verified it or not,\" says Holtbrügge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Normal1\"\u003E\"I always look out for sensationalism,\" says de Castro. \"Sustainable solutions are often quiet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp style=\"margin: 0px 0px 16px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #444444; font-family: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAn earlier version of this article included Burberry among the brands that were analysed to produce the 59% statistic in the CMF report. While they are named in the report, their claims were not analysed to produce this statistic. We have corrected the piece accordingly.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp style=\"margin: 0px 0px 16px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #444444; font-family: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp style=\"margin: 0px 0px 16px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #444444; font-family: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E, or follow us on\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Eor\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp style=\"margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #444444; font-family: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; 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font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E,\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E,\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003Eand\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca style=\"cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none #002856; color: #002856; box-sizing: border-box;\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\"\u003E\u003Cstrong style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003EReel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem style=\"box-sizing: border-box;\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Edelivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think-16"}],"collection":["future\u002Fcolumn\u002Fcoming-clean"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-31T15:21:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why 'bio' and 'green' don't mean what you think","headlineShort":"Why some climate claims are unprovable","image":["p0bydktf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A bag made from cassava starch (Credit: Getty Images)","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bydlrj"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The language brands use to promote their environmental sustainability can be misleading and unverifiable. How do you spot a buzzword from a real claim?","summaryShort":"How do you spot a buzzword from a real claim?","tag":["tag\u002Fenvironment"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-30T23:30:46.859729Z","entity":"article","guid":"1dead4fd-1dbd-41aa-b536-25241c8d9d41","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-31T17:01:38.160644Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220330-why-bio-and-green-dont-mean-what-you-think","cacheLastUpdated":1656121880612},"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims","_id":"62b4200d1f4b7b130c258bdc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["future\u002Fauthor\u002Fisabelle-gerretsen"],"bodyIntro":"Consumers can struggle to unravel whether claims about a brand or product's sustainability are accurate, but regulators are cracking down on companies promoting misleading climate claims in their advertising.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn September 2019, Ryanair circulated a series of adverts on TV, radio and online which urged customers to fly with \"Europe's Lowest Fares, Lowest Emissions Airline. Everybody knows that when you fly Ryanair you enjoy the lowest fares. But do you know you are travelling on the airline with Europe’s lowest emissions as well?\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Advertising Standards Agency (ASA), the UK's advertising watchdog, banned the campaign several months later after concluding that these claims were misleading. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fasa.org.uk\u002Frulings\u002Fryanair-ltd-cas-571089-p1w6b2.html\"\u003EIn its ruling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the ASA said that consumers would find insufficient information in the adverts to substantiate the company's claims that it was Europe's lowest emissions airline. The ASA highlighted that data provided as evidence for the claim dated from eight years earlier and did not appear to include some well-known airlines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a statement seen by the BBC at the time, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-51372780\"\u003ERyanair said it would comply\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with the ruling but reiterated its claim that its emissions per passenger km are \"25% lower than the other major European airlines\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The single most important thing any consumer can do to halve their carbon footprint is switch to Ryanair,\" the airline said in response.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERyanair is far from the only company to come under fire for making misleading climate claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince the Paris Agreement was signed in 2015, there has been a wave of corporate commitments to reduce emissions. But the increase in enthusiasm for climate responsibility has been matched by a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fecsdev.org\u002Fojs\u002Findex.php\u002Fejsd\u002Farticle\u002Fview\u002F504\u002F501\"\u003Erise in concerns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that some companies are using advertising and public messaging, with buzzwords such as \"carbon neutrality\" and \"net zero\", to try to appear more sustainable than they actually are. This is referred to by some as \"greenwashing\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Greenwashing is not new. What is new is the amount of sustainability commitments [from companies] and the unfortunate likelihood that many of these are quite empty and won't be delivered,\" says Joana Setzer, a research fellow at the Grantham Research Institute on Climate Change and the Environment at Imperial College London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsywhm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Setzer, consumers are increasingly seeing through misleading claims and making more complaints about them as a result. Environmental groups too are taking a more aggressive stance against environmental claims. Almost 50 complaints are currently pending globally before a court or an advertising standards body, according to a recent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faboutblaw.com\u002F1fq\"\u003Ereport co-authored by Setzer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Scrutiny is increasing,\" says Setzer. \"There is the question: 'Are companies serious about their commitments and can they deliver them, or is it just blah, blah, blah'?\" she adds, referring to the way \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fuk-scotland-59298344\"\u003ESwedish youth activist Greta Thunberg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has summed up climate promises made by world leaders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAs individuals, we are encouraged to do our bit for the climate. But it can be hard to get to grips with climate claims. Words like \"eco-friendly\", \"bio\" and \"green\" are \u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-59119693\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-59119693\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\" data-auth=\"NotApplicable\" data-linkindex=\"0\"\u003Epervasive in marketing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but what do they really mean? The symbols on the backs of plastic packages can be confusing, and even when something is made from recyclable materials, in practice it might be too complex to recycle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo how can consumers separate good environmental practices from fluffy marketing? And how much of the fight against climate change is the consumer's responsibility?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcoming-clean\u002F\"\u003EComing Clean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, BBC Future uncovers the tricks and misdirections that we should all look out for when we see claims about sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Coming Clean","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpotting misleading claims can be difficult, says Sophie Manjanac, a senior lawyer at environmental law charity ClientEarth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is often what these companies don't tell you in their advertising campaigns which is the real problem,\" says Manjanac. Fossil fuel companies, for example, will often choose to promote clean energy projects, which represent \"just a fraction of their overall business, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002F2021-06-02\u002Fbig-oil-s-green-spending-boost-is-failing-to-curb-global-warming\"\u003Emajority of their spending pumped into traditional oil and gas operations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What we continue to see is companies being misleading [in their advertising] by omission or ambiguity,\" says Matt Wilson, the ASA's media and public affairs officer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne example of this is a 2008 Shell advert in which the oil giant claimed it was providing a sustainable energy source by extracting oil from a huge tar sands project in Canada. Following a complaint by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fuk.practicallaw.thomsonreuters.com\u002F7-382-9890?transitionType=Default&contextData=(sc.Default)&firstPage=true#:~:text=The%20Advertising%20Standards%20Authority%20(ASA,misleading%20(see%20ASA%20decision).&text=The%20Canadian%20tar%20sands%20are,can%20be%20turned%20into%20oil.\"\u003EASA ruled that the advert was misleading\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as Shell had not provided \"data that showed how Shell was effectively managing carbon emissions from its oil sands projects in order to limit climate change\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause it is thick and viscous, oil from tar sands takes more energy to extract and refine than crude oil, leading its production to be three to four times more greenhouse gas intensive, according to the environmental advocacy group the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nrdc.org\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002Fkeystonexlmyths.pdf\"\u003ENatural Resources Defense Council\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ASA said the advert should not appear again in its original form and referred to government guidance which states that claims should not be ambiguous and avoid using vague terms such as \"sustainable\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bs8d7h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShell says that the sustainability performance of its former oil sands assets is \"well documented\" in its annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Freports.shell.com\u002Fsustainability-report\u002F2016\u002Fmanaging-operations\u002Foil-sands.html\"\u003Esustainability report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shell.ca\u002Fen_ca\u002Fsustainability\u002Freporting.html\"\u003Eoil sands report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shell.com\u002Fmedia\u002Fnews-and-media-releases\u002F2017\u002Fcompletes-divestment-of-oil-sands-interests-in-canada.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esold all of its interests in Canada's oil sands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2017. \"Prior to the divestment, Shell built an industry-leading oil sands business in terms of carbon management, including developing the first carbon, capture and storage facility in the oil sands,\" a Shell spokesperson says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn August 2021, the Netherlands' advertising watchdog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reclamecode.nl\u002Fuitspraken\u002Fresultaten\u002Fvervoer-2021-00190\u002F304997\u002F\"\u003Etold Shell to take down an advert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E which featured the slogan: \"Make the difference. Drive carbon-neutral.\" In the advert, Shell said that people buying petrol and diesel could pay an extra one euro cent (£0.083) per litre of fuel to fund tree-planting and forest management projects that would offset their emissions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reclamecode.nl\u002Fuitspraken\u002Fresultaten\u002Fvervoer-2021-00190\u002F304997\u002F\"\u003Eruling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the regulator (Stichting Reclame Code) said that Shell had not provided evidence that it was offsetting the emissions in full and that the company could not guarantee how much CO2 would be removed from the atmosphere through this scheme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShell removed the advert and said in a statement the company \"takes its responsibilities as an advertiser extremely seriously\" and called the campaign a \"genuine and important initiative to give consumers the option to offset CO2 emissions associated with the fuel they purchase\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShell says it will not appeal the ban and is \"in the process to change the communications as and where necessary.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EYou might also like:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOur \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Ftowards-net-zero\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETowards Net Zero\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E series\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOur \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Fcarbon-cost\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECarbon Cost\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E series\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-60248830\"\u003EClimate change: Top companies exaggerating their progress - study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Shell's Drive Carbon Neutral programme gives consumers the option to offset CO2-emissions associated with the fuel they purchase,\" says a Shell spokesperson. \"We are pleased the Reclame Code Commissie recognised the programme has been backed by extensive research and is in accordance with internationally accepted standards and best practices.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.asa.org.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fnew-advertising-guidance-on-misleading-environmental-claims-and-social-responsibility.html\"\u003EThe ASA plans to release new guidance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to ensure adverts don't mislead the public about the environment in 2022. The watchdog will, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-58645708\"\u003Elaunch an inquiry into claims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E made by companies in sectors such as aviation, energy, waste and animal-based food, which have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theccc.org.uk\u002Fpublication\u002F2021-progress-report-to-parliament\u002F\"\u003Eidentified by the UK's Committee on Climate Change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which advises the UK Government and Parliament, as priority areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe inquiry will also review carbon neutrality and net-zero pledges made in adverts and analyse whether these are backed by scientific evidence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bs8x57"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFossil fuel companies are also using social media to promote green claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, fossil fuel companies spent $9.5m (£7.1m) on 25,147 adverts with Facebook, many of which highlighted their investments in renewable energy or promoted natural gas as a sustainable energy source, according to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finfluencemap.org\u002Freport\u002FClimate-Change-and-Digital-Advertising-a40c8116160668aa2d865da2f5abe91b#6\"\u003Ereport by InfluenceMap\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a think tank that analyses how businesses are impacting the climate crisis. Just over half of this spending came from one company: the oil and gas firm ExxonMobil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The only instances I've seen where Facebook [itself] has stopped running a fossil fuel company advert is if the advertiser did not disclose that it was political in nature,\" says Faye Holder, a programme manager at InfluenceMap, citing as an example a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fads\u002Flibrary\u002F?active_status=all&ad_type=political_and_issue_ads&country=GB&id=1134629947057303&view_all_page_id=431744650466&search_type=page&media_type=all\"\u003EChevron advert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E which stated: \"We believe the future of energy is lower carbon, and we're taking action to help get there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA spokesperson for Meta, Facebook’s parent company, says: \"While ads like these run across many platforms, including television, Facebook offers an extra layer of transparency by requiring them to be available to the public in our Ad Library for up to seven years after publication. We reject ads when one of our independent fact-checking partners rates them as false or misleading and take action against Pages, Groups, accounts, and websites that repeatedly share content rated as false.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2017, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.asa.org.uk\u002Frulings\u002Fbmw--uk--ltd-a17-389311.html\"\u003EASA banned a Facebook advert by BMW\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In the video advert, the German car company promoted the electric i3 car with the claim: \"Having driven petrol-guzzling cars before, I realised that it is now time to switch to an electric car. With zero emissions, the i3 really is a clean car and helps to give back to the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ASA said that consumers would interpret the claim as confirmation that the i3 was a clean energy car, despite the fact there was also a model available with a small petrol engine, known as a \"range extender\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scrutiny is increasing – Joana Setzer","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Because cars which used petrol cannot be described as 'zero emissions' or as a 'clean car' and it was not clear from the ad that the claim was in relation to the electric battery model only, we concluded that the claims were misleading,\" the ASA said in its ruling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA spokesperson for BMW says the company is working to ensure \"all of our advertising and marketing materials accurately reflect the advancements which the company is making with our fully electric models\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When the i3 was first launched in 2013, the range-extender was a useful technology to help persuade people to try electric driving for the first time,\" the spokesperson adds. \"But as battery tech and consumer acceptance of electric cars improved, BMW discontinued the i3 model featuring a petrol range extender in the UK and Europe in 2018 - it has been an all-electric model ever since.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Holder, environmental claims can be incredibly subtle and nuanced, making it difficult for consumers to get the full picture. \"Many companies are playing [in] this grey area where they are using bits of climate science so you can't always say it's an outright lie,\" she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bs8ygm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFossil fuel companies, airlines and car manufacturers are far from the only ones to have adverts banned for misleading environmental claims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn January, the ASA banned an advertising campaign by Swedish company Oatly, which produces plant-based dairy alternatives, after ruling that its green claims were misleading. In its adverts, Oatly claimed that \"the dairy and meat industries emit more CO2 equivalent than all the world's planes, trains, cars, boats etc, combined\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ASA said this claim was \"overstated\" as it did not take into account the emissions from the full lifecycle of the transport industry, only those generated when directly using a vehicle. The company also claimed that Oatly production generates 73% less CO2 than cow's milk. The ASA concluded that this claim was based on evidence from one product, rather than evidence comparing all Oatly products with all types of dairy milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's clear that we could have been more specific in the way we described some of the scientific data,\" says Tim Knight, a spokesperson for Oatly. \"We're a science-based company and take pride in being precise, but we could have been clearer. We talk about these things a lot, because we want to make it easy for people to make an informed switch from dairy to oat drink.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn advert for Alpro almond milk was banned in October after the ASA concluded that its slogans \"Good for the planet, good for you\" and \"Next stop. Your recipe to a healthier planet!\" were misleading. The ASA said Alpro failed to explain why its product had a lower environmental impact than dairy-based alternatives. Alpro had not responded to BBC requests for comment at the time of publication.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Advertising Code requires that the basis of environmental claims must be clear and that unqualified claims could mislead if they omit significant information,\" says Wilson.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What we continue to see is companies being misleading by omission or ambiguity – Matt Wilson","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo date, most complaints regarding misleading climate claims are dealt with by watchdogs, rather than taken to court, as this is faster and less expensive, says Setzer. Since 2016, 20 cases involving such complaints have been filed before a court in the Netherlands, Australia, France and the US, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faboutblaw.com\u002F1fq\"\u003EGrantham Institute report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Both Setzer and Manjanac say this number is likely to increase as awareness about climate issues grows and companies face more scrutiny for their sustainability plans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the US, where legislation on consumer protection and fraud is well-established and has been litigated for decades, there are several court rulings pending, says Setzer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne noteworthy case, which is ongoing, was\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Fbusiness\u002Fenergy\u002Fnew-york-city-sues-exxon-bp-shell-state-court-over-climate-change-2021-04-22\u002F\"\u003E brought by New York City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E against Exxon, Shell, BP and the American Petroleum Institute. The city council argues that the companies are misleading the public by portraying the fuels they sell as \"cleaner\" and \"emissions-reducing\" at branded petrol stations, while not disclosing their climate impacts. Exxon, BP and the American Petroleum Institute UK did not respond to requests by the BBC for a comment on the ruling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If society is to meaningfully address climate change, consumers in all sectors – from motorists to manufacturers to other industries such as aviation and shipping – will need to make substantial and lasting changes in their energy choices,\" says a Shell spokesperson. \"Making consumers aware of lower-carbon alternatives such as electric mobility, hydrogen or the option to drive carbon neutral through the use of nature-based carbon credits is an important and valid part of our marketing activities.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat will happen next? Setzer says she expects the focus of greenwashing litigation to grow beyond fossil fuels. We may also start seeing lawsuits brought against other parts of the food industry, as well as against cities and countries in future, she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We usually think about corporate greenwashing, but governments are also starting to engage in greenwashing with their net-zero commitments. There is a possibility that they will be challenged,\" she says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin one million Future fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Future\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=fut.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, called \"The Essential List\" – a handpicked selection of stories from BBC \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\"\u003EFuture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\"\u003ECulture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\"\u003EWorklife\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\"\u003ETravel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\"\u003EReel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"future\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-the-adverts-that-were-banned-for-misleading-climate-claims-14"}],"collection":["future\u002Fcolumn\u002Fcoming-clean"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-07T00:00:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The adverts banned for misleading climate claims","headlineShort":"The surge in misleading climate adverts","image":["p0bs8vrh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"future","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Consumers can struggle to unravel whether claims about a brand or product's sustainability are accurate, but regulators are cracking down on misleading climate claims in advertising.","summaryShort":"Companies are facing mounting scrutiny for their green 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