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En la llengua valenciana actual, ‘ordi’, practicament s’ha perdut, contrariament al català, i solem dir ‘civada’. La rao es troba en que antigament, en llengua valenciana, el concepte de ‘civada’ incloia el de ‘ordi’, cosa que podem comprovar en els <em>“Statuts e ordenacions de Algezira”</em> quan parlen de <em>“…tot hostaler o venedor publich de <strong>civada, ço es</strong>, <strong>ordi</strong>, <strong>avena</strong>, spelta, arroç…”</em>. Vegem que la paraula ‘civada’, es un generic procedent del llati ‘cibus’, que vol dir aliment. Justetament al contrari ha succeit en relacio a la parella ‘blat’-‘forment’. En català, practicament s’ha perdut ‘forment’ i sempre diuen ‘blat’. I al reves de lo que es pensa, no eren sinonims, perque ‘blat’ era un generic com ho era ‘civada’. Ho comprovem per la mateixa font: <em>“…qui comprarà en la ciutat de Xativa e terme d’aquella <strong>blat, ço es</strong><strong>, forment</strong>, ordi, paniç, adaça <strong>avena</strong>, centeno…”</em>. Per a acabar-ho d’arreglar, els acatalanats nos enredren mes, perque en català li diuen ‘civada’ a lo que en llengua valenciana diem ‘avena’, en contra dels testimonis historics que hem vist.</p> <p>Puix be, inicialment la paraula ‘orchata’, es relacionava en una beguda dolça, resultat de posar certes llavors machucades en un liquit, per a aprofitar la seua substancia com a reconstituent o en finalitat curativa. En <em>“Florilegio medicinal de todas las enfermedades…”</em> (1712), Juan de Esteyneffer, nos parla de <em>“…las Horchatas, que llaman en latín Emulsiones de las semillas frías, como son de los Melones, Sandías, Pepinos y algunas especies de Calabazas…”</em>. Es interessant saber que ‘emulsio’ ve del llati “emulsus” o esmunyit, fent referencia per tant, a que s’esmuny la substancia de les llavors. El Diccionari d’Autoritats (T. IV-1734), nos diu en la veu <em>“Horchata”</em>, que era una <em>“Bebida que se hace de pepitas de melón y calabaza, con algunas almendras, todo machacado y exprimido con agua, y sazonado con azúcar”</em>. Estos remeis curatius, els trobem referenciats en <em>“Lo proces de les olives”</em>, quan Baltasar Portell fa referencia a lo que es troba al voltant dels vells sense forçes: <em>“d’on hixen ulleres, / <strong>lavor de melo</strong>, / <strong>pinyons</strong>, hi legir sovint lo Salmista”</em>.</p> <p>El Diccionari d’Autoritats que hem citat, nos dona el motiu pel qual es dia ‘orchata’ a eixes begudes de substancies de llavors: “<em>Dixose assi quasi Hordeata, porque las mas veces se hace con água de cebada”</em>, es dir, que el liquit en el que es posaven les llavors machucades, pareix ser que antigament, era aigua de civada. ¿Podria ser la rao de l’intima relacio entre l’orchata i l’aigua de civada, el que antigament poguera haver-se fet l’orchata de chufes en una base d’aigua de civada? Esta estreta relacio que ya hem comprovat, l’expressa de forma significativa Richard Ford, que vixque en Espanya de 1830 a 1834, en el seu llibre <em>“Gatherings from Spain”</em>, quan escriu: <em>“At Madrid, an agreeable drink is sold in the streets; its called “Michi, Michi”, from the Valencian “Mitj e Mitj”, “half and half” and its unlike the heavy wet mixture of London, as a coal-porter is to a pretty fair Valenciana. It’s made of equal portions of barley-water an orgeat of “Chufas”, and its highly iced”</em>, volent dir que “en Madrit, es sol vendre pels carrers una agradable beguda dita <em>“Michi, Michi”</em>, del valencià <em>“Mitj e Mitj”</em>, i que es pareix a la mescla de Londres com un carboner a una preciosa valenciana. Es fa en parts iguals d’aigua de civada i orchata de chufes i es servix gelat.</p> <p>En relacio a les primeres cites en valencià, trobem ‘orchata’ o ‘orjata’ en el <em>“Coloqui nou en que Tito Bufalampolla y Sento el Formal conten la Maestransa que es feu el 20 de Febrer de este any <strong>1789</strong> en Valencia…ab motiu de haver pujat al Trono de Espanya el Senyor Don Carlos Quart”</em> a on llegim: <em>“Tit: Vaix trobàr / aigues de totes maneres / gelades, llimò, imperial / llet, <strong>orjata</strong>, rempujòn / canella, y triquilitrach…”</em>. La trobem per tant en un context de festes populars.</p> <figure id="attachment_15871" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-15871" style="width: 243px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-15871" src="https://paginawebvalencia.com/horchateriadaniel/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/image001-243x300.jpg" alt="Vendedor de horchata en el Mercado Central de Valencia – Ca 1935. Colección Díaz Prósper. Reproducida por Julio Cob en ‘Valencia en Blanco y Negro’." width="243" height="300" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-15871" class="wp-caption-text">Vendedor de horchata en el Mercado Central de Valencia – Ca 1935. Colección Díaz Prósper. Reproducida por Julio Cob en ‘Valencia en Blanco y Negro’.</figcaption></figure> <p>Si parlem de primeres cites en castellà, el català Balañà escriu que <em>“les primeres citacions del mot castellà horxata </em>(sic)<em> (i del català orxata), són documentades ja al segle XVIII”</em>. Uns atres ‘sabuts’, no paren de repetir-ho. Pero no es de veres, perque a continuacio vorem, que en castellà, la paraula ‘horchata’, es troba perfectament documentada en el sigle XVII. I no a soles aixo. Anem a vore com ‘orchata’ era una paraula d’us comu, es dir d’us ordinari o vulgar en la Valencia d’eixe sigle. Nos ho diu Diego Antonio de Robledo, en l’edicio del seu llibre <em>“Compendio cirurgico vtil y prouechoso a sus professores”</em>, dedicat a la <em>“Soberana Reyna de los Desamparados”</em> impres en Valencia l’any 1694, quan parla de <em>“la emulsión de las quatro simientes frias mayores, a la qual <strong>comunmente llaman horchata</strong>”</em>. Per aixo, podria ser que Corominas encerte quan pensa que la paraula “orchata” puga tindre <em>“un origen mossàrab de València: un orğata>orčata (en la pronúncia apitxada de la capital)”</em>. La falta de documentacio, podría deure’s a que en els escrits, la paraula comu o popular “orchata” podria haver-se evitat, donant exclusivitat a la forma “ordiat”. Cristofol Mari, en <em>“La xufa i els gelats tradicionals…”</em>, escriu que esta teoria es veu reforçada pel fet de que <em>a Marroc s’utiltitza la paraula ‘rocata’”</em>. Els que volen que la paraula no siga valenciana, han inventat que el sufix “ata” no es propi de la llengua valenciana, que de ‘molt d’ordi’, hauria d’haver evolucionat en ‘orchada’ i no ‘orchata’, oblidant evidentment, que en llengua valenciana, de ‘molta faena’, tenim ‘faenata’.</p> <p>Per aixo, des d’un punt de vista etimologic, tambe existix la possibilitat de que la paraula ‘orchata’ siga la denominacio d’una beguda elaborada pels valencians descendents dels iberorromans en que es trobà Jaume I, els quals parlaven en el romanç valencià orige de la nostra llengua valenciana. Els valencians, hem d’evitar que es creguen que tenim la sanc d’orchata i defendre tot lo nostre que a uns atres els agradaria que fora d’ells. Com l’orchata, sense estar ben gelada, no seria lo mateix, en el proxim articul analisarém la relacio dels valencians en els gelats i refrescs.</p> <p>En acabant del articul sobre la chufa valenciana, (Vore <em>“Notes d’etnologia valenciana: la chufa”</em>), es evident que toca parlar de l’orchata valenciana de chufes. <em>“Puedes presumir de tu horchata, amiga chufa”</em>, escrivia Alvaro de Laiglesia en <em>“La gallina de los huevos de plomo”</em>, afegint que<em> “no hay refresco que pueda compararse con ella”</em>. Teodor Llorente en la p. 473 del Vol II de “Valencia”, va escriure en relacio a l’orchata de chufes, que <em>“en toda España suena a valenciana pura”</em>. I es que, la fama conseguida per l’orchata valenciana, ha fet que s’haja convertit en la beguda refrescant sense alcohol que identifica a tota Espanya en l’estranger.</p> <p>L’orchata de chufes, es el resultat de passar-li a un liquit la substancia de la chufa. Gaspar Escolano, (1560-1619) en <em>“Décadas de la historia de la insigne y coronada ciudad y reino de Valencia”</em>, nos conta que s’obte, <em>“majadas las chufas y exprimido su çumo por un paño”</em>. Orellana, en <em>“Valencia antigua y moderna”</em> (1780 o 1781), diu que es fa a partir de chufes <em>“bien majadas y filtradas por un trapo su leche…”</em>. I eixos son els principis que l’actualitat regulen el proces de fabricacio de l’orchata, independentment de que les tecniques estiguen mes o manco industrialisades.</p> <p>Si pensem en les propietats alimentaries o medicinals de la chufa, es evident que l’immensa majoria d’elles es troben en l’orchata de chufa. L’us medicinal de l’orchata es conegut perque es troba present en tractats antics de medicina, consistents en una serie de beurages, fets a partir dels mes increibles i exotics ingredients. Si parlem de l’us alimentari, segurament formaria part de la costum de les classes baixes. Les classes altes no entendrien un aliment consistent en un liquit obtingut a partir de chicotetes raïls d’una brossa.</p> <p>Pero l’us de l’orchata, que ha fet que es popularisara a tots els nivells, ha segut l’us com a lo que hui entenem per ‘refresc’. La relacio dels valencians en l’us de la neu i del gel ha segut fonamental en que els gelats valencians siguen els mes famosos de tota Espanya, mereixent un nou articul que titularém <em>“Notes d’etnologia valenciana: gelats i refrescs”</em>.</p> <p>I un element tipic de l’etnologia valenciana, com l’orchata, no podia quedar lliure de l’atac dels estranys de sempre i d’alguns de casa. Que alguns catalans volen apropiar-se d’ella, ho constatem quan Jaume Fàbrega inclou l’orchata dins de la <em>“cuina catalana”</em>, en el seu llibre <em>“El gust d’un poble: els plats més famosos de la cuina catalana”</em>, dient que es una beguda <em>“coneguda arreu dels Països Catalans”</em>, encara que segurament per vergonya afigga que “<em>i també a fora”</em>. Que a uns atres catalans els agradaria traure a l’orchata del seu lloc entre les tradicions immemorials valencianes, ho comprovem quan parlen d’ella com a “aparició” succeïda en el sigle XVIII, com fa Balañà, en <em>“Els noms àrabs de la xufla…”</em>, quan afirma que <em>“ja fa temps que l’<strong>aparicio</strong> de l’orxata de xufles fou datada correctamente a mitjan segle XVIII”</em>. Com els acatalanats valencians es llimiten a repetir com a mones lo que diuen els “cientifics” catalans, l´alborayenc Martí Adell, en “<em>La xufa i els gelats tradicionals…”</em>, citant a Orellana del s. XVIII, afirma que <em>“aquest seria el moment de <strong>l’aparicio de la nostra orxata</strong>”</em>. Tambe hi ha d’aquells que es fien de qui no son de fiar, com Carlos Azcoytia, qui escriu en <em>“Historia de la chufa, de la horchata y las hemorroides de Jaime II de Aragón”</em> que <em>“la horchata de chufas debe de ser una <strong>invención</strong> de comienzos del siglo XVIII”</em>.</p> <p>Com crec que defendre-nos dels atacs d’alguns catalans desficaciats, catalanistes renegats i uns atres destrellatats, es una obligacio dels valencians, anem a comprovar tant el caracter exclusivament valencià de l’orchata de chufes, com que no es tracta d’una beguda “apareguda” o “inventada” ni “<em>a mitjan segle XVIII”</em> ni a “<em>comienzos del siglo XVIII”</em>.</p> <p>El caracter valencià, el despacharém en una cita de Edouard Charton, qui en el vol. 3 de <em>“Le tour du monde… ”</em>, publicat l’any 1862, diu que <em>“Dans la plupart des villes d’Espagne, on trouve des <strong>orchaterias de chufas</strong>; cette industrie est <strong>exclusivement exercée par des Valenciens</strong>, qui débitent leur orchata sans quitter le costume de leur province”</em>, es dir que en la major part d’Espanya es troben orchateries, sent una industria exclusivament eixercida per valencians. ¿Els ha quedat clar als catalans absorcionistes i assimilacionistes?</p> <p>I a continuacio anem a vore en cites, qué passà en relacio a l’orchata en el sigle XVIII, sigle del pretes “invent”. En el <em>“Semanario de agricultura y artes”</em> d’1 de maig de 1800 es dia que: <em>“<strong>Los valencianos</strong> han introducido <strong>en Madrid y en otros muchos pueblos de España</strong> el uso de la <strong>horchata de chufas</strong>, de que se hace un gran consumo en verano”</em>. Cavanilles, en <em>“Observaciones sobre la historia natural”</em> (1795) diu dels torrentins que <em>“Gran número de ellos pasan en Madrid el verano vendiendo <strong>orchata de chufas y agua de cebada</strong>, donde á fuerza de sudores y economía ahorran algo para pasar el invierno”</em>. En el <em>“Diario de Madrid”</em> del <em>“Domingo 12 de febrero de 1797”</em> es dia que qui es trobara un <em>“tenedor de plata…le entregará en el <strong>puesto de orchata de chufas</strong> que está en la carrera de S. Gerónimo nº 11”</em>. En la mateixa publicacio de l’any 1793, es parla <em>“del <strong>Valenciano que vende orchata</strong> de chufas y agua de cebada”</em>. Per la <em>“Real orden sobre los adeudos de alcabalas de los gremios menores de Madrid”</em> de 18 de giner de <strong>1788</strong>, sabem que los <em>“<strong>vendedores de agua de cebada y orchata</strong>”</em>, estaven inclus organisats en gremi, sent que es parla dels seus deutes, lo que implica un establiment anterior. Orellana, en <em>“Valencia antigua y moderna”</em> (1780 o 1781), parla de que <em>“De pocos años a esta parte, se han dedicado algunos valencianos, assi en esta ciudad como principalmente en Madrid, a vender en los veranos para refrescar, agua de Cevada mixturada con leche de chufas, resfriada con nieve, o de chufas solamente”</em>. Com a curiositat, hem de saber, que els catalans de Barcelona no fruiren asiduament de l’orchata, fins a l’any 1836. Eixe any, Manuel Arnal o el tio Nelo, vestit de llaurador valencià, els ensenyà als de Barcelona lo bo que era pendre’s una bona orchata en l’estiu, i un bon chocolate en bunyols en l’hivern. Ya fea alguns anys que Ignacio Ruiz de Luzuriaga, en la p 82 de les <em>“Disertaciones físico-médicas”</em> (1796), havia explicat com treballaven els orchaters valencians: <em>“Los <strong>tratantes de la orchata de chufas</strong> recogen la <strong>emulsion de las chufas</strong> remojadas y molidas en barreño vidriado, y endulzándola luego con la miel ó palo dulce, <strong>la enfrían</strong> en las garrafas de peltre”</em></p> <p>De les cites del paragraf anterior podria extraure’s, que a mitant del XVIII, alguns valencians iniciaren la comercialisacio de l’orchata de chufes. Pero… ¿Vol dir aixo que l’orchata de chufes no existia en anterioritat? ¿Pot haver algun descervellat que pense que el suc de taronja no l’havia “inventat” ningu fins a que no es començà a vendre’s en public? ¿Quin “cientifisme” de secà es aço?</p> <p>Anem a vore, com l’orchata de chufes, existia previament a escomençar a comercialisar-la. L’any 1729 en que es publicà el tom II del Diccionari d’autoritats, en la p 337 en que es troba la veu “Chufa”, es diu que <em>“<strong>Hácese de ellas una bebida </strong>mui semejante à la orcháta, <strong>mui sana i sabrósa</strong>”</em>. Eixe mateix any, Carmen Simón Palmer ya la detecta en el seu llibre <em>“La cocina de Palacio”</em> (p 60), sent que es serviren 20 <em>“azumbres”</em> d’orchata a un cost de <em>“seis reales”</em> (AP. Felipe V. Caja 172). Gaspar Escolano, (1560-1619) en <em>“Décadas de la historia de la insigne y coronada ciudad y reino de Valencia”</em>, parla de les propietats medicinals de l’orchata, quan referint-se a les chufes diu que “S<em>u <strong>leche o zumo</strong>, limpian las enfermedades del pecho y del costado y mata la calentura ética. Por lo cual <strong>majadas las chufas y exprimido su çumo por un paño</strong> le dan a bever nuestros físicos rebuelto en el caldo a los ethicos y que padecen tos”</em>. En un receptari manuscrit que hi ha en la Biblioteca Nacional (Ms. 2019), trobem <em>“<strong>De como se ha de hacer la</strong> <strong>leche de las chufas</strong>”</em>. El manuscrit es de clara inspiracio valenciana, sent que es parla de <em>“mi Señora de Valencia”</em>, de l’engüent <em>“que se haze en Gandía”</em> o de <em>“Como se hacen las nuezes en Valencia”</em>. El manuscrit, podia haver-se escomençat a escriure en el XVI, vent que es parla del duc de Calabria (1448-1550). Encara que les chufes es l’ingredient principal de <em>“la leche de las chufas”</em>, es tracta d’una beguda dolça, que porta tambe “<em>cinco o seys almendras peladas y una migaja de pan…caldo echo de media gallina y un pedaço de pierna de carnero”</em>. Es diu d’esta la beguda que <em>“es cosa muy buena para engordar y refrescar”</em>. Comprovem, que l’orchata, suc o llet de chufes, sense cap de dubte, no es tracta d’un invent del s. XVIII, formant part de begudes mes elaborades.</p> <p>Pero encara hi ha mes. Resulta, que en el s XVI, l’orchata valenciana ya tenia fama en l’estranger. Ho sabem perque, en el llibre <em>“Tadkirat Uli Al-Albab”</em> o “Memorandum per a inteligents”, escrit per Dawud b. Omar “al-Antaki” o d’Antioquia, mort l’any <strong>1599</strong>, es parla de la chufa com a element medicinal, dient-se que <em>“en Austria es beu el suc com si fora llet i en ell es prepara <strong>en Espanya una beguda refrescant</strong>”</em>. No crec que siga necessari especificar a quina part d’Espanya havia de referir-se. S’afig en el llibre, que per a fer eixe suc de chufa o orchata, es mol la chufa deixant-la a remulla en aigua durant una nit. En acabant d’escorrer-la, es cola i es beu el liquit en sucre. ¿S’està parlant o no de l’orchata? Curiosament, esta recepta de l’orchata, del s. XVI, es troba en el treball <em>“Els noms arabs de la xufla”</em>, l’autor del qual, diu que la “aparició” de l’orchata es de “<em>mitjan segle XVIII”</em>. I es que no hi ha pijor cego que qui no vol vore.</p> <p>Si com hem vist, la chufa es un producte d’un cultiu que sense dubte es donava en la Valencia de l’epoca de dominacio musulmana i probablement en epoca anterior, resulta dificil pensar que no es coneguera el seu aprofitament per a fer orchata de chufes. Un estudi de la paraula “orchata”, pot donar-nos mes indicis. Ho deixarém per a una segon part.</p> </div> </article> </main> </div> </div>  <div class="col-12"> <nav class="navigation post-navigation" aria-label="Continue Reading"> <h2 class="screen-reader-text">Continue Reading</h2> <div class="nav-links"><div class="nav-previous"><a href="https://horchateria-daniel.es/la-horchata-de-chufa-propiedades-saludables-y-de-prevencion-de-enfermedades-digestivas/" rel="prev"><div class="card shadow-hover-sm shadow-sm d-inline-block m-3 bg-white pix-hover-item"> <div class="card-body pix-pl-20 pix-pr-10 pix-py-10"> <div class="d-flex justify-content-between align-items-center"> <i class="pixicon-angle-left text-body-default font-weight-bold mr-3 pix-hover-left"></i> <div class="card-btn-content"> <div class="text-body-default text-xs line-height-1">Previous post</div> <p class="card-title mb-0 text-heading-default font-weight-bold line-height-1 truncate-150">La Horchata de Chufa: Propiedades saludables y de prevención de enfermedades digestivas</p> 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