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type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","author":{"@type":"Person","name":"Jim Darby"},"dateModified":"2024-11-22T18:00:00+00:00","datePublished":"2024-11-22T18:00:00+00:00","description":"Visit Yellowstone National Park in summer, and you’ll be, literally, one in a million.","headline":"How to avoid the tourist hordes at the world’s first national 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type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/traveller","name":"Travel"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/inspiration","name":"Inspiration"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":3,"item":{"@id":"https://www.theage.com.au/topic/united-states-of-america-gd5","name":"USA"}}]}</script></div><h1 data-testid="headline" itemProp="headline">How to avoid the tourist hordes at the world’s first national park</h1></div></div></header><section class="_3OhA4"><div class="_2h56q _2bGxr"><div class="_3J1te _2NJ_s"><h5 class="_3-xPQ"><span class="_3pGt1">By </span><span><span data-testid="byline"><a href="/traveller/by/jim-darby-gjnus5" title="Articles by Jim Darby">Jim Darby</a></span></span></h5><div class=""> <span class="_2xetH"><time class="_2_zR-" data-testid="datetime" dateTime="2024-11-23T05:00:00+11:00">November 23, 2024 — 5.00am</time></span></div></div></div><div class="_2CSKo noPrint"><div class="_1KqZ_ _3Eavl"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>,<!-- --> <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://theage.myfairfax.com.au/channel/4vLxp6nBuWVKEPLaQuUKwA/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> <!-- -->or <a href="https://subscribe.theage.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> <!-- -->to save articles for later.</div><div><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz WUf_a _1pHo1" id="onboardingTooltip" role="tooltip"><h3>Save articles for later</h3><p>Add articles to your saved list and come back to them any time.</p><button class="_2YSi8 _17BTN _3_hLE" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="save onboarding" data-ffx-event-label="got it - part 1" data-ffx-hittype="event">Got it</button></div></div></div><div class="_2Cn91"><div class="_2KkCz"><button class="_30X7v _2-NUy" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size normal" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Normal text size</button><button class="_3Rq_0" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size large" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Larger text size</button><button class="_3VkdU" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-category="component" data-ffx-event-label="font size extra large" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event">Very large text size</button></div></div></div></div></section><section class="_1Rw6X" data-testid="article-body-top"><aside class="_2GZaf"><div class="_1q-_I _3sCHz"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-160x600_300x250_300x600-pos2-desktop"></div></div></div></div></aside><div class="_1ysFk" data-testid="article-body"><div><div class="_5JLqO"><div class="_1Ld7U" id="beyondwords-player"></div><div class="_3Fhwk" data-testid="showPlayerOverlay"></div></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Visit Yellowstone National Park in summer, and you’ll be, literally, one in a million. Stop by in winter to see Old Faithful blow, that old geezer of a geyser, and you’ll be one of a few.</p><p>Native Americans have called this area home for at least 11,000 years; more recently, in 1872, Yellowstone was declared the world’s first national park, an area of about 900,000 hectares preserved for conservation.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Old Faithful in winter at Yellowstone National Park." src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_1%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/a1b6f3f2938ef6be48487b6c25dce9fedcc141f5 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Old Faithful in winter at Yellowstone National Park.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>iStock</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>It remains in the top five most-visited US national parks, a place where people come to witness the geysers blow and gurgle – there’s so much thermal activity beneath the surface here that our driver and guide (“Hi, I’m Matt, and that’s with two Ts”) assures us that if this dormant volcano blows, that’ll be it for the Western world. He saved this news for the end of the trip.</p><p>Matt with two Ts is the proud driver of a big yellow bus with tyres so fat he could enter it in a monster truck jam. On top of the thermals, he’s also showing us the wildlife, and even in the depths of winter, there’s plenty.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="A bald eagle on watch." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.356%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/985888ad8a81e9b983279c21077b24f89bf55f3e 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">A bald eagle on watch.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Getty Images</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>On our first stop inside the park, in a snowy siding alongside the Madison River, we see a flock of trumpeter swans. They’re huge, with a wingspan of up to three metres, some of them inbound from Canada and Alaska, swanning around in the warmth of the thermal waters.</p><p>A little further along the snow-covered road, perched high in a tree and taking in its surrounds, is a bald eagle, the national emblem. In the distance, a herd of bison chews away on grass peeking through the snow.</p><p>Onwards we go, sometimes at a crawl to let the bison pass or be passed. All of them are seemingly built forward first, massive heads and shoulders with their hindquarters an afterthought.</p><p>My first bison anecdote actually came on the ski slopes at Big Sky a few days previously.</p></div></div></div></section><div class="_1FVfK"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-728x90_970x250-pos3-desktop"></div></div></div></div><section class="vPaWe" data-testid="article-body-bottom"><div class="_1ysFk"><div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>Troy Nedved, now general manager of Montana’s Big Sky ski resort, once worked in Yellowstone National Park. While on the job, he was called in to help a bison calf that had fallen into a creek and was thought to have drowned.</p><p>“Normally we don’t interfere with nature, but this was maybe the result of some people filming nearby, so they asked me to help,” Nedved said.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="The bus and the bison." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.31%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_33/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/47500402fa112cff15525db82dc74c1d196c2c61 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">The bus and the bison.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>iStock</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>A trained first-aider, he started to apply CPR. The result? “I could see its chest rising and falling, so I knew we were getting somewhere, and then, yep, we got it back.” Maybe, as we crawl along, one of these bison is the one Nedved brought back from the brink.</p><p>On the other side of that coin, over the river is a patch of red and a rib cage, all that remains of a lone bison and its encounter with a wolf pack. No wonder the bison travel in herds, instinct having the calves sticking like paint to their mothers.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>We stop at a little clearing where Matt has phone reception. He checks in with the park rangers – who have the timing down pat – and finds the next predicted blow for Old Faithful is at noon, give or take 10 minutes either side.</p><p>So we make our way to Old Faithful, named for its regular and predictable eruptions and the centrepiece of a sprawling complex that includes vast fields of car and bus parking, a couple of hotels, a visitor and interpretations centre (complete with shop, of course) and viewing stands and walkways around the main geyser and its neighbours.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Parts of Yellowstone can look like a Jackson Pollock painting." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.357%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/b7c496fa2e3a53fe0aa406c74cd294c60ddd28d5 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Parts of Yellowstone can look like a Jackson Pollock painting.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>iStock</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>Sure enough, close on noon it blows, a stream of steam arcing up into the air, each eruption bigger than the previous one. Old Faithful is among about 500 geysers in the park, and after seeing it do its thing and wandering the boardwalk around it, we’re back in the bus and on to some more geyser fields.</p><p>At first glance, they’re a wasteland, but look closer (and listen to Matt’s interpretations) and you can see the work of busy little bacteria in the water colouring the scene with the chaos of a Jackson Pollock painting, guarded by long dead but perfectly preserved trees.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk _1DQEH" data-testid="body-content"><p>You could wander through the park at your own pace, but if you want a deeper understanding of this natural wonderland and its geology and wildlife, a tour will take you there, and in winter, you won’t be battling the crowds.</p><h3>The details</h3><p><strong>Tour</strong><br/>Tours depart from West Yellowstone, Montana, about 90 minutes from Big Sky ski resort. Winter tours last for nine hours and run from mid-December to mid-March. From $US230 ($345) an adult. Snow cover permitting, self-drive snowmobile tours are also available, from $US340 ($515) an adult. Park entry ($US20/$30) is additional for all tours. A tip – take light binoculars or a monoscope for wildlife viewing. See <a href="http://yellowstonevacations.com">yellowstonevacations.com</a></p><p><em>The writer was a guest of Visit Big Sky and Big Sky Resort. 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Yellowstone National Park in summer, and you\\u2019ll be, literally, one in a million.\",\"allowComments\":false,\"body\":\"<p>Visit Yellowstone National Park in summer, and you\\u2019ll be, literally, one in a million. Stop by in winter to see Old Faithful blow, that old geezer of a geyser, and you\\u2019ll be one of a few.</p><p>Native Americans have called this area home for at least 11,000 years; more recently, in 1872, Yellowstone was declared the world\\u2019s first national park, an area of about 900,000 hectares preserved for conservation.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"4492a23aacce2a434b88e81fcebd6630b3db962a\\\"></x-placeholder><p>It remains in the top five most-visited US national parks, a place where people come to witness the geysers blow and gurgle \\u2013 there\\u2019s so much thermal activity beneath the surface here that our driver and guide (\\u201CHi, I\\u2019m Matt, and that\\u2019s with two Ts\\u201D) assures us that if this dormant volcano blows, that\\u2019ll be it for the Western world. He saved this news for the end of the trip.</p><p>Matt with two Ts is the proud driver of a big yellow bus with tyres so fat he could enter it in a monster truck jam. On top of the thermals, he\\u2019s also showing us the wildlife, and even in the depths of winter, there\\u2019s plenty.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"9dba602b88109355092588356680f6b3ac63a242\\\"></x-placeholder><p>On our first stop inside the park, in a snowy siding alongside the Madison River, we see a flock of trumpeter swans. They\\u2019re huge, with a wingspan of up to three metres, some of them inbound from Canada and Alaska, swanning around in the warmth of the thermal waters.</p><p>A little further along the snow-covered road, perched high in a tree and taking in its surrounds, is a bald eagle, the national emblem. In the distance, a herd of bison chews away on grass peeking through the snow.</p><p>Onwards we go, sometimes at a crawl to let the bison pass or be passed. All of them are seemingly built forward first, massive heads and shoulders with their hindquarters an afterthought.</p><p>My first bison anecdote actually came on the ski slopes at Big Sky a few days previously.</p><p>Troy Nedved, now general manager of Montana\\u2019s Big Sky ski resort, once worked in Yellowstone National Park. While on the job, he was called in to help a bison calf that had fallen into a creek and was thought to have drowned.</p><p>\\u201CNormally we don\\u2019t interfere with nature, but this was maybe the result of some people filming nearby, so they asked me to help,\\u201D Nedved said.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"901016c62f67e6618526c51c034dbd89f695bf3f\\\"></x-placeholder><p>A trained first-aider, he started to apply CPR. The result? \\u201CI could see its chest rising and falling, so I knew we were getting somewhere, and then, yep, we got it back.\\u201D Maybe, as we crawl along, one of these bison is the one Nedved brought back from the brink.</p><p>On the other side of that coin, over the river is a patch of red and a rib cage, all that remains of a lone bison and its encounter with a wolf pack. No wonder the bison travel in herds, instinct having the calves sticking like paint to their mothers.</p><p>We stop at a little clearing where Matt has phone reception. He checks in with the park rangers \\u2013 who have the timing down pat \\u2013 and finds the next predicted blow for Old Faithful is at noon, give or take 10 minutes either side.</p><p>So we make our way to Old Faithful, named for its regular and predictable eruptions and the centrepiece of a sprawling complex that includes vast fields of car and bus parking, a couple of hotels, a visitor and interpretations centre (complete with shop, of course) and viewing stands and walkways around the main geyser and its neighbours.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"045c63aab7a819f7c900d6183844449c734eb937\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Sure enough, close on noon it blows, a stream of steam arcing up into the air, each eruption bigger than the previous one. Old Faithful is among about 500 geysers in the park, and after seeing it do its thing and wandering the boardwalk around it, we\\u2019re back in the bus and on to some more geyser fields.</p><p>At first glance, they\\u2019re a wasteland, but look closer (and listen to Matt\\u2019s interpretations) and you can see the work of busy little bacteria in the water colouring the scene with the chaos of a Jackson Pollock painting, guarded by long dead but perfectly preserved trees.</p><p>You could wander through the park at your own pace, but if you want a deeper understanding of this natural wonderland and its geology and wildlife, a tour will take you there, and in winter, you won\\u2019t be battling the crowds.</p><h3>The details</h3><p><strong>Tour</strong><br />Tours depart from West Yellowstone, Montana, about 90 minutes from Big Sky ski resort. Winter tours last for nine hours and run from mid-December to mid-March. From $US230 ($345) an adult. Snow cover permitting, self-drive snowmobile tours are also available, from $US340 ($515) an adult. Park entry ($US20/$30) is additional for all tours. A tip \\u2013 take light binoculars or a monoscope for wildlife viewing. See <x-placeholder id=\\\"bf564ceec5be41d907989777825775fb6a525c58\\\"></x-placeholder></p><p><em>The writer was a guest of Visit Big Sky and Big Sky Resort. 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