Author Rosecrans Baldwin Hits the Road With a Bottle of Ocho Cientos Sotol Blanco

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data-agent="desktop" data-env="prod" intent in-at4units-class="mobile" in-at8units-class="mobile" in-at12units-class="" in-at16units-class=""> <section class="marketDataHeader"> <div class="loader"></div> <div class="market-wrap sector"> <table class="mdStrip module"> <tbody> <tr> <td id="DJIA" data-channel="/quotes/zigman/627449/realtime" data-decimalprecision="2" data-type="Index" data-updatedtimestamp="2015-05-27T17:59:00-04:00" data-time="4:33 PM ET 05/27/15" data-localtime="4:33 PM EDT 05/27/15" data-timezone="EDT" data-etoffsetmins="-240" class=" "> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://quotes.wsj.com/index/DJIA" rel="nofollow"> <span class="desktop-arrow hide4 hide8"> <i class="up "></i> </span> <span class="mName">DJIA</span> <span class="mobile-arrow hide12 hide16"> <i class="up ">▲</i> </span> <div class="index"> <span class="mValue hide4">18162.99</span> <span class="mChange">0.67%</span> </div> </a><div style="display: none;"><a href="srqxazwuwqfr.html" id="caqqbzatufxvxy" rel="file">ucwqexau</a></div> </td> <td class="spacer hide4 "> </td> <td id="COMP" data-channel="/quotes/zigman/12633936/realtime" data-decimalprecision="2" data-type="Index" data-updatedtimestamp="2015-05-27T17:59:00-04:00" data-time="5:16 PM ET 05/27/15" data-localtime="5:16 PM EDT 05/27/15" data-timezone="EDT" data-etoffsetmins="-240" class=" hide4 hide8 "> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://quotes.wsj.com/index/COMP" rel="nofollow"> <span class="desktop-arrow hide4 hide8"> <i class="up "></i> </span> <span class="mName">Nasdaq</span> <span class="mobile-arrow hide12 hide16"> <i class="up ">▲</i> </span> <div class="index"> <span class="mValue hide4">5106.59</span> <span class="mChange">1.47%</span> </div> </a> </td> <td class="spacer hide4 hide4 hide8 "> </td> <td id="TMUBMUSD10Y" data-channel="/quotes/zigman/15866666/realtime" data-decimalprecision="3" data-type="Bond" data-updatedtimestamp="2015-05-27T17:59:00-04:00" data-time="4:57 PM ET 05/27/15" data-localtime="4:57 PM EDT 05/27/15" data-timezone="EDT" data-etoffsetmins="-240" class=" "> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://quotes.wsj.com/bond/BX/TMUBMUSD10Y" rel="nofollow"> <span class="desktop-arrow hide4 hide8"> <i class="up "></i> </span> <span class="mName">U.S. 10 Yr</span> <span class="mobile-arrow hide12 hide16"> <i class="up ">▲</i> </span> <div class="index"> <span class="mValue hide4">3/32 yield</span> <span class="mChange">2.13%</span> </div> </a> </td> <td class="spacer hide4 "> </td> <td id="Crude Oil - Electronic" data-channel="/quotes/zigman/2331086/delayed" data-decimalprecision="2" data-type="Future" data-updatedtimestamp="2015-05-27T17:59:00-04:00" data-time="5:14 PM ET 05/27/15" data-localtime="5:14 PM EDT 05/27/15" data-timezone="EDT" data-etoffsetmins="-240" class=" hide4 hide8 "> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://quotes.wsj.com/futures/Crude Oil - Electronic" rel="nofollow"> <span class="desktop-arrow hide4 hide8"> <i class=" down"></i> </span> <span class="mName">Crude Oil</span> <span class="mobile-arrow hide12 hide16"> <i class=" down">▲</i> </span> <div class="index"> <span class="mValue hide4">57.65</span> <span class="mChange">-0.65%</span> </div> </a> </td> <td class="spacer hide4 hide4 hide8 "> </td> <td id="EURUSD" data-channel="/quotes/zigman/16008136/realtime/sampled" data-decimalprecision="4" data-type="Currency" data-updatedtimestamp="2015-05-27T17:59:00-04:00" data-time="5:58 PM ET 05/27/15" data-localtime="5:58 PM EDT 05/27/15" data-timezone="EDT" data-etoffsetmins="-240" class=" "> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://quotes.wsj.com/fx/EURUSD" rel="nofollow"> <span class="desktop-arrow hide4 hide8"> <i class=" down"></i> </span> <span class="mName">Euro</span> <span class="mobile-arrow hide12 hide16"> <i class=" down">▲</i> </span> <div class="index"> <span class="mValue hide4">1.0903</span> <span 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So why, wonders author Rosecrans Baldwin, do we not see more of it stateside?</h2> </div> </div>  </header> <div class="column at8-col8 at12-col7 at16-col9 at16-offset1"> <div class="module"> <div data-module-id="8" data-module-name="article.app/lib/module/articleBody" data-module-zone="article_body" class="zonedModule">  <div id="wsj-article-wrap" class="article-wrap" itemprop="articleBody" data-sbid="SB10994208795574063550204580634803450454396"> <div id="articlebody-i18n" data-i18n-hide-caption="HIDE CAPTION" data-i18n-show-caption="SHOW CAPTION" data-i18n-advertisement="Advertisement"></div> <div class="clearfix byline-wrap"> <div class="byline"> <span>By</span> <div class="author hasMenu" data-scrim="{"type":"author","header":"Rosecrans Baldwin","subhead":"The Wall Street Journal","list":[]}" itemscope itemprop="author" itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"> <span itemprop="name">Rosecrans Baldwin</span> </div> </div> <time class="timestamp"> May 13, 2015 1:26 p.m. ET </time> <![if ! lte IE 8]> <div class="comments-count-container"> <a class="comments_header" href="#livefyre-comment" rel="nofollow"> <span class="comments_count_icon"></span> 0 COMMENTS </a> </div> <![endif]> </div> <div data-layout="wrap " class=" media-object wrap "> <div class="media-object-image enlarge-image renoImageFormat-FR img-wrap" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject"> <div style="padding-bottom:128.1646%;" data-mobile-ratio="128.1646%" data-layout-ratio="128.1646%" class="image-container responsive-media"> <meta itemprop="representativeOfPage contentUrl" content="http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OD-BG315_MESSAG_FR_20150513131435.jpg"/> <meta itemprop="caption description" content=""/> <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902im_/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OD-BG315_MESSAG_FR_20150513131435.jpg" data-intent data-in-base-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OD-BG315_MESSAG_FR_20150513131435.jpg" data-in-at4units-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OD-BG315_MESSAG_FR_20150513131435.jpg" data-enlarge="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OD-BG315_MESSAG_FR_20150513131435.jpg" alt="" title=""/> <![if ! lte IE 8]> <span class="image-enlarge"> ENLARGE </span> <![endif]> </div> <div class="wsj-article-caption" itemprop="caption"> <span class="wsj-article-caption-content"></span> <span class="wsj-article-credit" itemprop="creator"> <span class="wsj-article-credit-tag"> Photo: </span> Illustration by Angela Southern; F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal </span> </div> </div> </div>  <p> <strong>FROM THE TOP</strong> of the mountain, at nearly 10,000 feet, we could see for miles across the desert, and it seemed like the perfect time for a shot of liquor. Then I dropped the flask. I fell to my knees, managing to save at least half of the contents. At the same time, a bearded dude came up out of nowhere and said loudly, with a voice like Sam Elliott’s, “My friend, that was very nearly a serious party foul.”</p> <p>Two days earlier, a bottle of Ocho Cientos Sotol Blanco had arrived via UPS from my editor at The Wall Street Journal. All I’d known about sotol was that it was a Mexican spirit similar to tequila. I popped the cork at the door. It smelled of burnt rubber, meadow grass, wildflowers—like a car accident in the Mojave. I rolled a sip around my mouth. It was smoky, similar to <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/author-andrew-sean-greer-on-mezcal-vago-elote-1414769259" target="_self" class="icon none">mezcal</a>, but smoother, more savory. Pepper, cinnamon, even a touch of brine. The kind of drink that gives writers a case of the adjectives.</p> <div data-layout="wrap " class=" media-object wrap "> <div class="media-object-rich-text"> <h4>Related</h4> <ul class="articleList"> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304176904579113701687589592" target="_self" class="icon none">A Visit to Tequila Country, Mexico</a> </li> </ul> </div> </div>  <p>Tequila and its cousins—<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/author-andrew-sean-greer-on-mezcal-vago-elote-1414769259" target="_self" class="icon none">mezcal</a>, bacanora, raicilla—still have a lousy reputation in the U.S. Despite all the options that are now available, people say, “I don’t touch the stuff; I had a bad experience once.” Of course, they’re thinking Jose Cuervo and frat parties, Steely Dan and bachelorettes. Even if they’ve had the good stuff, it’s got none of Scotch’s cachet, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424127887324532004578362663959730642" target="_self" class="icon none">bourbon’s Americana</a> or gin’s stiff upper lip.</p> <p>Sotol comes from the sotol plant, an evergreen shrub that resembles a land-bound sea urchin. The bottle I received tasted refined, but still homemade. Sotol’s distillation and aging are similar to tequila’s, and both spirits are bottled in blanco (white), reposado (aged) and añejo (aged at least a year) variations. But, unlike tequila, sotol is not always easy to find in the States. </p> <p>Sotol has its own Denomination of Origin, meaning it can only be produced in the northern Mexican states of Chihuahua, Coahuila and Durango. But that shouldn’t have been an obstacle to me: At the moment, my wife and I live somewhat nearby, in Los Angeles. Previously, we lived in France, where we were surprised to discover that you can buy Champagne in gas stations, next to the soda in the fridge. It was a revelation: the idea that Champagne’s not merely for New Year’s Eve, but also for lunch. I’m sure Americans would expand their ideas about sotol, too, if more of it came across the border.</p> <p>I took a scientific approach and decided to assess sotol’s range of applications. Right away I knew I liked it, but what was it good for? And what did other people think? That first evening, I started easy: sotol on the rocks, like an end-of-day two fingers. The liquor tasted roasted, but also soft, which matched my mood. The sun was setting behind the hills, breezes came in from a nearby canyon, and the sotol (or two) was good for all of that.</p> <div data-layout="wrap " class=" media-object wrap "> <div class="media-object-rich-text"> <h4> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://topics.wsj.com/person/T/lettie-teague/7318" target="_self" class="icon none">On Wine</a> </h4> <ul class="articleList"> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/ode-on-grecian-white-winesa-modern-success-story-1431103808" target="_self" class="icon none">Ode on Grecian White Wines—a Modern Success Story</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/women-vintners-chip-away-at-the-wineglass-ceiling-1430496334" target="_self" class="icon none">Women Vintners Chip Away at the Wineglass Ceiling</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/drinking-alone-a-bad-idea-or-a-toast-to-oneself-1429886146" target="_self" class="icon none">Drinking Alone: A Bad Idea or a Toast to Oneself?</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/gavi-does-a-wine-beloved-in-the-80s-hold-up-today-1428679615?tesla=y" target="_self" class="icon none">Gavi: Does a Wine Beloved in the ’80s Hold Up Today?</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/jura-wines-theyre-not-all-a-wild-ride-1427474076" target="_self" class="icon none">Jura Wines: They’re Not All a Wild Ride</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/can-music-change-the-way-your-wine-tastes-1428071632" target="_self" class="icon none">Can Music Change the Way Your Wine Tastes?</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/wine-headache-chances-are-its-not-the-sulfites-1426250886" target="_self" class="icon none">Wine Headache? Chances Are It’s Not the Sulfites</a> </li> </ul> <h4> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/news/types/message-in-a-bottle" target="_self" class="icon none">Message in a Bottle</a> </h4> <ul class="articleList"> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/author-amelia-grays-misadventures-with-aylesbury-duck-vodka-1429209296" target="_self" class="icon none">Amelia Gray’s Misadventures With Aylesbury Duck Vodka</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/poet-matthew-rohrer-on-teeling-small-batch-irish-whiskey-1426703758" target="_self" class="icon none">Matthew Rohrer on Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/michael-paterniti-on-alessio-vermouth-di-torino-rosso-1424448217" target="_self" class="icon none">Michael Paterniti on Alessio Vermouth di Torino Rosso</a> </li> <li> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/novelist-christina-nichol-on-croft-quinta-da-roeda-2012-vintage-port-1421955784" target="_self" class="icon none">Christina Nichol on Croft Quinta da Roêda 2012 Vintage Port</a> </li> </ul> </div> </div>  <p>The next day, under a deadline, I tried a shot of it at my desk, in the manner of a performance beverage. Bad idea. I never drink while working—boozy courage equals crappy sentences—but what’s science without experimentation? Twenty minutes later, I was surfing the web, totally ignorant of time passing. Then I took a nap.</p> <p>For the next day, I called up a hiking buddy and planned a trip up Mount Baden-Powell, one of the higher peaks in the San Gabriel range near L.A. Sotol is already rustic, so pairing it with a California climb seemed just right. Along the way we met several backpackers, wheezing from the altitude. One of them was the guy who watched me spill the flask. </p> <p>He introduced himself as Tommy Five Toes. Strapped to his backpack was a big American flag, complete with pole. Tommy explained that he was an ex-marine. Recently he’d lost two friends to suicide. He was carrying the flag from Mexico to Canada, to honor veterans who killed themselves. </p> <p>“Did you know 20 veterans a day take their own lives?” he said. </p> <p>“I didn’t,” I said. I didn’t know what else to say. “Do you want a drink?”</p> <p>“Hell yes.” He swallowed some. “That’s good. Kind of like tequila. But it doesn’t have that bite.” </p> <p>Tommy Five Toes stared out across the desert. His face darkened, then he grinned, panting a little. “There it is—there’s that bite!” </p> <p>Two days later, my wife’s cousin would get married in Washington, D.C. I cleaned out a bottle of mouthwash, filled it with sotol, and smuggled it through LAX. Would it be suitable for a formal event? One held in Georgetown? I escorted the groom to the wedding site. Along the way, I offered him the bottle. At the exact same moment, a Secret Service car stopped next to us. We decided to wait. An hour later, the groom found me in the garden. “You got that bottle?” He cracked the top. “It smells like burned vegetation.” He paused after swallowing. “Hey, that’s good. That’s really good.” </p> <p>Word started to get around. The husband of another cousin, a pathologist at Stanford and a serious wine collector, said in a hush, “I heard you’ve got some stuff on you.” He glanced at the mouthwash label disdainfully. A moment later: “You know, it’s actually very nice. They’re really doing amazing things with añejos these days.” Then my wife showed up: The bride wanted a slug. I found her in a private room, thronged by her young nieces. The ceremony was to begin in five minutes. She took a sip. A grimace rippled across her face, then she coughed and laughed, and I asked her what she thought. “It’s good. I like it. It just makes me make that face.” </p> <p>The wedding was a big success, thanks in part to sotol.</p> <p>For my final tests, I wanted to determine sotol’s boundaries. One of my favorite things about Mexican spirits is that they do lowbrow and highbrow equally well. Tuesday was Cinco de Mayo. I made some <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://www.wsj.com/articles/how-the-authentic-taco-made-a-gourmet-comeback-1428082953" target="_self" class="icon none">tacos</a> for dinner and paired a shot of sotol with a Mexican beer. Delicious. The next day, for highbrow, I went to Las Perlas, a bar in downtown Los Angeles. It’s an agave bar, meaning they only sell drinks made from the agave plant. No gin, no vodka, no wine. But they make an exception for beer, and for sotol.</p> <p>  Nikki Sunseri is the general manager and one of the mixologists. I asked if people ever ordered sotol neat. “Sure. We have a big Mexican clientele. Guys from Chihuahua ask for it all the time.” She added, “It’s a really gorgeous spirit. When people try it, they end up ordering another one.”</p> <p>To show off sotol’s capabilities, she modified a classic cocktail, a Bee’s Knees. Normally it’s gin, honey syrup, lemon juice. “I wanted a classic where people wouldn’t normally think of using sotol,” she said. “Sotol has that grassy flavor, so I like it in place of gin.” </p> <p> <strong>Sotol Bee’s Knees</strong> </p> <p>Make honey syrup: Combine <strong>½ cup honey</strong> and <strong>¼ cup hot water</strong>. Stir until honey dissolves. Cool before using. <strong>//</strong> In a cocktail shaker, combine <strong>1 cup ice cubes</strong> with <strong>¾ ounce honey syrup</strong>, <strong>¾ ounce lemon juice</strong> and <strong>2 ounces Ocho Cientos Sotol Blanco</strong>. Shake vigorously, then strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a <strong>nasturtium flower</strong> for style points.</p> <p>Ms. Sunseri made the drink. The color was a fuzzy yellow. On top went an orange nasturtium. “This would be good for brunch,” she said. “There’s nice acidity, it tastes really light. It’ll go well with spicy food, or if you’re just sitting outside on a hot afternoon. It’s definitely a day-drinking cocktail.”</p> <p>I sipped, picturing her ideas. Unfortunately, for the moment, that’s all they’d be: scenarios, untested. The bottle was empty. I’d need to get another. That’s the problem with sotol: It’s good for so many things.</p> <div data-layout="twocolumn " class=" media-object twocolumn "> <div class="media-object-image enlarge-image renoImageFormat-AM img-twocolumn" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject"> <div style="padding-bottom:100.0000%;" data-mobile-ratio="100.0000%" data-layout-ratio="100.0000%" class="image-container responsive-media"> <meta itemprop="representativeOfPage contentUrl" content="http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/BN-IK093_messag_AM_20150513113903.jpg"/> <meta itemprop="caption description" content="Rosecrans Baldwin"/> <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902im_/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/BN-IK093_messag_8S_20150513113903.jpg" data-intent data-in-base-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/BN-IK093_messag_AM_20150513113903.jpg" data-in-at4units-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/BN-IK093_messag_8S_20150513113903.jpg" data-enlarge="https://web.archive.org/web/20150527215902/http://si.wsj.net/public/resources/images/BN-IK093_messag_12S_20150513113903.jpg" alt="Rosecrans Baldwin" title="Rosecrans Baldwin"/> <![if ! 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Author Rosecrans Baldwin Hits the Road With a Bottle of Ocho Cientos Sotol Blanco - WSJ