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An American in Dublin | OxfordWords blog

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I am strolling the streets of Dublin just as the celebration’s namesake, Leopold Bloom, did on this date nearly 100 years ago in James Joyce’s <em>Ulysses</em>. Like him, I am taking in the many sights and sounds of Ireland’s storied old capital. As a word nerd and language writer, I’m especially listening out for the rich textures of the city’s language. But there are a few problems. One, I’m no James Joyce. Two, I’m an American who’s just moved here. A lot of what I’m hearing is right over my head. But as Joyce writes in <em>Ulysses</em>, ‘To learn one must be humble. But life is the great teacher.’</p> <h3>Street talk</h3> <p>I cross over the Ha’penny Bridge and wander into Temple Bar, where the <em>footpaths</em> are <em>jammers</em>. Er, the <em>sidewalks</em> are <em>crowded</em>, as I’d say back in the States. Good thing I wore my <em>runners</em> – I mean, <em>sneakers</em> – to make my way around the <em>city centre</em>, or <em>downtown</em>, today. ‘It’s <em>close</em>’, a fellow celebrant strikes up a conversation with me at a <em>pedestrian crossing</em>, or <em>crosswalk</em>.</p> <p>‘Yeah, it’s very jammers today’, I <em>chance my arm</em>, an idiom for <em>giving it a shot</em>. I am met with laughter. ‘That’s <em>gas</em>’, he says. I’m ready to excuse myself when he sees my embarrassed countenance. ‘That’s <em>funny</em>. I mean it’s very <em>humid</em> outside.’</p> <p>‘So, where in Dublin do you live?’ I ask.</p> <p>‘Actually, I just came in for Bloomsday. I haven’t been to Dublin in <em>yonks</em>.’ In <em>ages</em> or, more colloquially, <em>in a minute</em>, I translate in my head. ‘I’m just a <em>culchie</em>, as some of these <em>scangers</em> would say’, he continues. A <em>culchie</em>, I learn, is a pejorative term for a person from the country, possibly formed from <em>agricultural</em>. Back home, we’re guilty of calling such folks <em>hicks</em>. Many consider a <em>scanger</em>, meanwhile, is its young, rough-and-tumble city-dwelling equivalent, which might derive from <em>scange</em>, a dialect verb meaning ‘to roam about’. But only an <em>oul’</em> <em>eejit </em>– a <em>knucklehead – </em>would ever cast such aspersions.</p> <p>‘Do you have <em>relations</em> here, then?’ he asks after we chat about my recent move from America. I am about to tell off this <em>lad</em>, this <em>dude</em> – or <em>Gerrup outta dat! </em>as I’ve already heard joked on the streets – when I realize he’s not <em>slagging</em> me: He’s just wondering if I have any <em>relatives</em> here.</p> <p>We begin discussing ancestry when a <em>Garda</em> comes speeding over the <em>ramps</em> down a street. Where I’m from, <em>ramps</em> take cars on or off the highway, help strollers and wheelchairs circumvent stairs, or add a delicious pungency to a meal. Here, they are <em>speed bumps</em>.</p> <p>‘Whew! I definitely <em>amn’t</em> in the country anymore!’ he remarks. It dawns on me, like the <em>bells</em>, or <em>sirens</em>, of a police car sounding off, that being Dublin isn’t just a vocabulary lesson. It’s also a lesson in a whole other language – for instance, the Irish <em>Gardaí</em> (literally ‘guardians’) – as well distinct Hiberno-English constructions such as <em>amn’t</em>, a contraction for <em>am not</em>.</p> <h3>Irish-English mouthfuls</h3> <p>‘Well, I’m after some lunch’, I tell my new friend.</p> <p>‘Oh, where did you eat?’</p> <p>Our confusion is due to the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://www.uni-due.de/IEN/Southern_Irish_English_%28Hickey%29.pdf">immediate perfective</a>, a unique construction that grafts a bit of native Irish grammar, which lacks English’s auxiliary <em>have</em>, onto English. <em>I’m just after getting lunch</em> is a way of saying ‘I have just eaten lunch’.</p> <p>He recommends a pub that serves up some delicious <em>bap</em> for just a few <em>bob</em>. ‘Make sure to <em>gargle</em> a few <em>scoops</em>, too. For Leopold!’ I need a menu decoder for this one: <em>bap</em> is a bit of <em>bread</em>, <em>bob</em> a few <em>quid</em>. And to <em>gargle</em> is to wash down a few <em>scoops</em>, or <em>pints</em>. Of Guinness, of course. For some Dubliners, a pint is synonymous with the city’s famous beer.</p> <p>‘Mighty <em>craic</em> there! Bye bye! Bye bye bye!’ No, he’s not pushing drugs. He’s letting me know this pub is a fun, sociable place, to approximate this word.</p> <p>‘Howya’, I greet the bartender, putting aside my usual “How’s it going?” ‘I’m <em>grand</em>’, he answers. By now I know he’s not boasting any magnificence. He’s just saying he’s <em>good</em>. Maybe I should just stick with some <em>minerals</em> and a <em>rasher sambo</em>, some <em>soda</em> and <em>bacon</em> <em>sandwich</em>, as I do have some writing to do later. ‘<em>Feck</em> it’, I conclude, employing an Irish minced oath and order a pint. Of course, I have to hit the <em>jacks</em>, or <em>bathrooms</em>, on the <em>first floor</em>, which, across the pond, requires stairs.</p> <h3>Unparliamentary language?</h3> <p>I skip on <em>afters</em>, or <em>dessert</em>, and decide to take a long way to St. Stephen’s Green, ambling over to Trinity College and then past the <em>Dáil.</em> Irish for ‘assembly’ and shorthand for Ireland’s House of Representatives, as my American mind calques it, the <em>Dáil </em>appoints the <em>Taoiseach</em>, or ‘leader’ of <em>É</em><em>ire</em>’s government. Dublin is no <em>Gaeltacht</em>, or region where Irish is the vernacular, but my American English has been absorbing a number of <em>Gaeilge</em> words. Of course there’s <em>Slainte, ‘</em>Cheers!’ which word functions as ‘Thanks’ these parts. But the etymology geek in me can’t help but spot all sorts of Irish-English cognates in the city’s bilingual signage. Like <em>uisce</em>, or ‘water’, and source of the English <em>whiskey</em>. I’ll let you make the connection.<em> </em></p> <p>At St. Stephen’s, which is <em>thick</em> or <em>bustling</em> with people, I find a spot on the grass right next to a group of three enjoying a nice picnic. I can’t help but eavesdrop, yet all I can make out is talk of <em>turds. </em>It’s a park, to be sure, but this not exactly appetizing conversation – until I notice they are splitting up some of their food into <em>thirds</em>. Differences between Irish-English and American-English are also phonological. These picnickers’ accents have replaced interdental fricatives with dental stops, making <em>thanks</em> sound like <em>tanks </em>or <em>three </em>like <em>tree</em>.</p> <h3>Master storytellers <em> </em></h3> <p>I wind my way back to my <em>gaff</em>, or <em>house</em>. ‘What’s the story?’ I greet my wife.</p> <p>‘What do you mean, “What’s the story?” Where you’ve been all this time?’</p> <p>‘“Longest way round is the shortest way home”’, I quote a proverb in <em>Ulysses</em>. ‘Besides, I’m just saying “What’s up?” as a Dubliner would.’</p> <p>She rolls her eyes.</p> <p>‘I’m banjaxed.’ I’m <em>beat</em>. ‘Hand me that <em>yoke</em> there’. No, I wasn’t making a snarky comment on marriage. I was pointing to the television remote, using this catch-all for any sort of a <em>whatchamacallit</em> or <em>thingamajig</em>. Ireland produced the great James Joyce, whose Modern masterpiece of <em>Ulysses</em> we honor on Bloomsday, but the Emerald Isle also gave us <em>Father Ted</em>. 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transform="translate(-1225 -2048)"/> </svg> </span></a></li> </ul> </a> </li> </ul> </div> <div class="author-inform"> <p>Guest Blogger</p> <div class="guest-pic"> <div class="photo-wrap"><img width="146" height="210" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/wp-content/uploads/John-Kelly-1.jpg" class="attachment-single_post_author size-single_post_author" alt=""/></div> </div> <div class="guest-name"> <h5><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/author/john-kelly/" title="Posts by John Kelly" rel="author">John Kelly</a></h5> <p>Educator, writer, and word nerd, John Kelly blogs about etymology at <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/http://mashedradish.com/">www.mashedradish.com</a> and Shakespeare at <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/http://shakespeareconfidential.com/">shakespeareconfidential.com</a>. Follow him on Twitter <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://twitter.com/mashedradish">@mashedradish</a> and <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://twitter.com/bardconfidensh">@bardconfidensh</a>.</p> <ul> <li> <h6>Published</h6> <p>June 16 / 2016</p> </li> <li> <h6>Categories</h6> <ul class="post-categories"> <li><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/category/varieties-of-english/" rel="category tag">Varieties of English</a></li></ul> </li> <li> <h6>Tags</h6> <p><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/bloomsday/" rel="tag">bloomsday</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/dublin/" rel="tag">Dublin</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/ireland/" rel="tag">Ireland</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/irish/" rel="tag">Irish</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/joyce-james/" rel="tag">Joyce-James</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/popular/" rel="tag">popular</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/ulysses/" rel="tag">Ulysses</a>, <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/tag/varieties-of-english/" rel="tag">Varieties of English</a></p> </li> </ul> </div> </div> <div class="banner sec"> <!-- /116097782/odo_en_blog_post_related_leadermpu --> <div id="div-gpt-ad-1471358448959-1"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1471358448959-1'); }); </script> </div> </div> <div class="rel-posts"> <h4>Related posts</h4> <div class="post-box"> <div 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https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers-783x522.jpg 783w, https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers-126x84.jpg 126w, https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers-172x115.jpg 172w, https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers-108x72.jpg 108w, https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers-43x30.jpg 43w, https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216im_/https://27ldk4j1esh2tto962ds2vk1-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/trousers.jpg 1200w" sizes="(max-width: 566px) 100vw, 566px"/> </a> </div> <div class="post-info"> <h3><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/2012/03/15/unexpected-irish-words-in-english/" title="Irish words that appear in English" rel="bookmark">Irish words that appear in English</a></h3> <p>Most English speakers would not be surprised to hear that words like ...</p> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/2012/03/15/unexpected-irish-words-in-english/" class="more" title="Irish words that appear in English"><span>more</span><b></b></a> </div> </div> </div> <div class="comment-box"> <h2>Comments</h2> <div> <div id="disqus_thread"> </div> <script type="text/javascript"> var disqus_url = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20190425192216/https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/2016/06/16/an-american-in-dublin/'; var disqus_identifier = '38567 http://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/?p=38567'; var disqus_container_id = 'disqus_thread'; var disqus_shortname = 'oxforddictionariesblog'; var disqus_title = "An 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