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text-gray-850 md:px-6 md:text-10xl">White truffles, Italy’s gold, are menaced by climate change</h1><p class="mb-6 mt-2 font-lucida text-xl tracking-[-0.075rem] text-gray-850 md:px-6 md:text-4xl md:leading-normal">Global warming, drought, deforestation and sudden temperature alterations are all factors weakening the natural habitat of the fungus </p><div class="mb-6 md:px-6 min-h-[50px] text-gray-850 mt-4 space-y-4 md:flex md:flex-wrap md:space-y-0" data-testid="article-authors-list-component"><div class="flex items-center"><img class="flex-shrink-0 rounded-full" src="/assets-web2/default-BSkyYMCQ.png" width="50" height="50"/><div class="flex flex-col flex-wrap pl-2"><div class="font-public-sans text-xs font-normal leading-6 text-gray-650"><span data-testid="article-published-time">Published <!-- -->Mon, Nov 11, 2024 · 05:11 PM</span></div></div></div></div><div class="mb-3 flex items-center justify-between border-b border-t border-gray-250 py-3 md:mx-6 md:mb-6 md:py-4"><div 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bg-gray-250"></div></div></li></ul></div></div><div class="splide"><div class="splide__track"><ul class="splide__list"><li class="splide__slide"><div><div class="py-2 px-3 font-poppins text-xs text-gray-850 md:px-8">Truffle hunter Carlo Marenda walking with his dog Buk along a Langhe vineyard to search for white truffles in Treiso, near Alba, northwestern Italy. PHOTO: AFP</div></div></li></ul></div></div></div><div class="body-content tracking-tighter mb-6 mt-4 font-lucida text-lg font-medium leading-normal tracking-[-0.05625rem] text-gray-850 antialiased md:px-8 md:text-xl" data-testid="article-paragraphs-component"><div class="relative mb-4 md:mb-6"><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">DEEP in a thick forest in Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region, the hunt is on for the white Alba truffle, with excited dogs zigzagging and digging into the wet earth. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">But the culinary treasure is becoming increasingly rare, undermined by climate change. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">“Go find it! Where is it?“ Carlo Marenda, a part-time truffle hunter, calls out to Gigi and Buk, seven month- and 13-year-old crosses between the Spinone Italiano and Lagotto Romagnolo breeds, prized for their keen sense of smell. </p><div class="my-8 md:my-12 w-screen bg-gray-125 transition-all duration-300 border-gray-175 min-h-0 border-y-0 bg-none py-0" style="max-width:0px;margin-left:calc(-1*(0px - 100%) / 2 );height:0"><div data-component="component-container" class="container px-3 sticky top-[120px]"><div class="relative mx-auto w-full md:w-10/12 md:px-8 lg:w-8/12"><div class="text-center text-center" data-testid="advertisement-element"><div id="dfp-ad-imu1" class="adunit-component"></div></div></div></div></div><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Autumn leaves crunch under the weight of boots sinking into muddy soil. Below a picturesque hillside vineyard not far from Alba, trails wind along the Rio della Fava, crossing damp ground ideal for growing truffles. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Sought after by gourmets and starred chefs around the globe, the white truffle of Alba, the most prestigious in the world, is an underground fungus growing in symbiosis with certain hardwood trees by attaching itself to their roots. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Its intense and refined scent, a mixture of hay, garlic and honey, allows hunting dogs to detect it, even if the truffle is sometimes buried up to a metre deep.</p><div class="py-10 md:-mx-8"><div class="mb-6 border border-gray-175 p-6 md:p-8"><div class="" data-component="specific-newsletter"><h5 class="mb-6 border-b border-gray-850 py-2 !font-poppins text-base font-semibold uppercase tracking-5% md:text-lg">A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU</h5><div class="flex py-3 md:px-10 md:py-6"><img alt="Newsletter Img" class="hidden h-auto max-w-full self-start min-[321px]:block" width="75" height="75" src="/assets-web2/newsletter_lifestyle-TlJQ_ypm.png"/><div class="min-[321px]:pl-4 md:pl-6"><p class="mb-1 font-poppins text-4xs font-light uppercase tracking-[1px] text-gray-850">Friday, 2 pm</p><h5 role="name" class="!font-poppins text-xl font-medium text-gray-850">Lifestyle</h5><p role="description" class="mb-3 font-public-sans text-base font-light tracking-normal text-gray-850 md:text-lg ">Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.</p><div class="relative hidden w-full md:block md:w-4/5 lg:w-7/10 xl:w-6/10"><div class="relative"><button data-size="md" type="button" class="!outline-none focus-within:outline-none focus:outline-none outline-0 focus-within:outline-0 focus:outline-0 flex cursor-pointer items-center justify-center whitespace-nowrap rounded-full border border-solid border-gray-175 text-center !font-poppins text-gray-850 transition-all duration-150 hover:border-gray-850 data-[size=lg]:h-[68px] data-[size=md]:h-[42px] data-[size=sm]:h-[36px] font-semibold text-xs tracking-[0.02em] w-full min-w-[155px] bg-transparent px-0 py-0 hover:bg-transparent md:max-w-[155px]" data-rac="" id="react-aria-:Rmabcoodcscu5:">Sign Up</button></div></div></div></div><div class="relative block w-full md:hidden"><div class="relative"><button data-size="md" type="button" class="!outline-none focus-within:outline-none focus:outline-none outline-0 focus-within:outline-0 focus:outline-0 flex cursor-pointer items-center justify-center whitespace-nowrap rounded-full border border-solid border-gray-175 text-center !font-poppins text-gray-850 transition-all duration-150 hover:border-gray-850 data-[size=lg]:h-[68px] data-[size=md]:h-[42px] data-[size=sm]:h-[36px] font-semibold text-xs tracking-[0.02em] w-full min-w-[155px] bg-transparent px-0 py-0 hover:bg-transparent md:max-w-[155px]" data-rac="" id="react-aria-:Rnbcoodcscu5:">Sign Up</button></div></div></div></div></div><div class="w-screen bg-gray-125 transition-all duration-300 border-gray-175 min-h-0 border-y-0 bg-none py-0" style="max-width:0px;margin-left:calc(-1*(0px - 100%) / 2 );height:0"><div data-component="component-container" class="container px-3 sticky top-[120px]"><div class="relative mx-auto w-full md:w-10/12 md:px-8 lg:w-8/12"><div class="text-center text-center" data-testid="advertisement-element"><div id="dfp-ad-midarticlespecial" class="adunit-component my-8 md:my-12"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="mb-4 md:mb-6" data-story-element="image" data-testid="article-inline-image-component"><figure class="table mx-auto"><div aria-owns="rmiz-modal-" data-rmiz=""><div data-rmiz-content="not-found" style="visibility:visible"><img src="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/a638a2645f72147a584d99bfb579d73e76233e57ab21c827c8e5c5aa7472238b" height="760" width="1140" class="w-auto max-w-full" alt=""/></div></div><figcaption class="mt-1 table-caption caption-bottom text-3xs text-gray-525">Marenda holding a white truffle found by his dog Buk in a forest of the Langhe countryside in Treiso.<!-- --> <!-- -->PHOTO: AFP</figcaption></figure></div><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Introduced to truffle hunting at the age of five by a family friend, Carlo Marenda, 42, founded the “Save the Truffle” association in 2015, alongside Edmondo Bonelli, a researcher in natural sciences. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">It was an octogenarian “trifulau” loner, Giuseppe Giamesio, known as “Notu” and the last descendant of a family with a century-old truffle tradition, who revealed his secrets to him and bequeathed his dogs just before his death in 2014. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">The master’s message was a testament: “If we want to prevent the disappearance of the truffle, we must protect the forests, stop polluting the waterways and plant new ‘truffle’ trees”. </p><div class="mb-6 mt-8 border border-gray-175 p-6 md:-mx-8 md:mt-0 md:p-8" data-testid="article-read-more"><div><div class="mb-6 border-b border-gray-850 pb-2 !font-poppins text-base font-semibold leading-normal tracking-5% text-gray-850 md:text-lg">SEE ALSO</div><div data-testid="section-article-read-more"><div class="mb-6" data-testid="article-read-more-items"><div data-testid="basic-card" data-cueid="26283" class="relative flex flex-wrap items-start gap-4"><div class="relative flex order-1 flex-shrink-0 w-[70px] lg:w-[90px]"><div class="flex items-center justify-center bg-gray-250 w-full"><div class="w-full" style="position:relative"><a rel="noopener" href="/lifestyle/croatias-truffle-hunters-seek-habitat-protection-amid-climate-change" target="_blank"><picture><source media="(min-width: 992px)" srcSet="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/5c97050c1dbc624a0e58ac1fecc52413f0dab2b1e2bac03452f8707570880e5a?w=180&amp;h=120&amp;dpr=1&amp;f=webp 1x"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/5c97050c1dbc624a0e58ac1fecc52413f0dab2b1e2bac03452f8707570880e5a?w=140&amp;h=100&amp;dpr=1&amp;f=webp 1x"/><source srcSet="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/5c97050c1dbc624a0e58ac1fecc52413f0dab2b1e2bac03452f8707570880e5a?w=300&amp;h=200&amp;dpr=1&amp;f=webp 1x"/><img src="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/5c97050c1dbc624a0e58ac1fecc52413f0dab2b1e2bac03452f8707570880e5a?q=20&amp;w=3&amp;h=2&amp;f=webp" loading="lazy" alt="Croatia&#x27;s truffle hunters seek habitat protection amid climate change" class="w-full aspect-3x2"/></picture></a></div></div></div><div class="flex flex-grow flex-col w-full-120px lg:w-2/3 order-2 text-white"><h3 class="_title_d4ajx_12 !text-base my-0 leading-[1.3rem] tracking-normal !font-lct" data-testid="title_link_26283"><a class="inherit word-break hover:underline !text-gray-850" rel="noopener" title="Croatia&#x27;s truffle hunters seek habitat protection amid climate change" href="/lifestyle/croatias-truffle-hunters-seek-habitat-protection-amid-climate-change" target="_blank">Croatia&#x27;s truffle hunters seek habitat protection amid climate change</a></h3></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="my-8 md:my-12 w-screen bg-gray-125 transition-all duration-300 border-gray-175 min-h-0 border-y-0 bg-none py-0" style="max-width:0px;margin-left:calc(-1*(0px - 100%) / 2 );height:0"><div data-component="component-container" class="container px-3 sticky top-[120px]"><div class="mx-auto w-full md:w-10/12 md:px-8 lg:w-8/12"><div class="text-center text-center" data-testid="advertisement-element"><div id="dfp-ad-imu2" class="adunit-component"></div></div></div></div></div><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Ten years later, thanks to donations and the support of some winegrowers, the association has planted more than 700 such trees in the hilly Langhe area, including poplars, oaks and lindens. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">“Notu passed on to me his passion for truffle hunting and tree preservation,” said Marenda, emerging from his metallic grey Fiat Panda 4X4, the preferred car of truffle hunters. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">In the last three decades, the areas dedicated to white truffles in Italy have dropped by 30 per cent, gradually giving way to more profitable vineyards, but also hazelnut groves. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">The Langhe hills provide a large quantity of hazelnuts to the chocolate giant Ferrero, which was founded in 1946 in Alba, a small prosperous town of 30,000 inhabitants. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">But the main threat to the white truffle, whose harvest was classified as an intangible heritage of humanity by Unesco in 2021, is climate change. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Global warming, drought, deforestation and sudden temperature changes are all factors weakening the natural habitat of this fungus. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">To survive, the truffle needs cold and humidity. At the beginning of November, however, the temperature was at 20 degrees Celsius. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">“With the prolongation of summer weather, production is definitely falling”, Marenda lamented. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">The harvest, running from October to the end of January, is getting shorter. And with the delayed cold and snow to arrive, “the aroma of the truffles is not yet 100 per cent and they don’t keep as long”, Marenda noted. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Abundant rain, as seen in recent weeks, can also be harmful, he explained. “If there is too little water, the truffle does not grow. If there is too much, it rots.” </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Alerted by Buk, Marenda crouched down to the ground to delicately scratch the earth with a narrow spade, extracting a truffle, albeit rather modest in size. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">On whether the white truffle is on the brink of extinction, experts say that it is not too late. “Not yet. But if we don’t act, it could become so,” said Mario Aprile, president of the Piedmont truffle hunters’ association.</p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">“The white truffle cannot be cultivated, unlike the black one. Without trees, there are no truffles. We plant them to rebuild biodiversity,” Aprile said. </p><div class="mb-4 md:mb-6" data-story-element="image" data-testid="article-inline-image-component"><figure class="table mx-auto"><div aria-owns="rmiz-modal-" data-rmiz=""><div data-rmiz-content="not-found" style="visibility:visible"><img src="https://cassette.sphdigital.com.sg/image/businesstimes/9634da8f76e347be75bd9f8688b350f32894f0dfa87e4bd7f5b05308946058bd" height="760" width="1140" class="w-auto max-w-full" alt=""/></div></div><figcaption class="mt-1 table-caption caption-bottom text-3xs text-gray-525">White truffles on sale at a fair in Alba.<!-- --> <!-- -->PHOTO: AFP</figcaption></figure></div><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Faced with limited supply and booming demand, the white truffle is trading at a high price, reaching 4,500 euros (S$6,400) per kilo this year at the International Alba White Truffle Fair which ends on Dec 8. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Two “twin” white truffles, bound to the same root and dug up by Aprile, were the stars of the annual world charity auction for white truffles in Alba on Sunday. </p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component">Weighing a total of 905 grams, the fungi were sold for 140,000 euros to a Hong Kong finance tycoon. <!-- -->AFP</p><p class="mb-4 md:mb-6 leading-8 -tracking-5%" data-story-element="paragraph" data-testid="paragraph-component"> </p></div><div class="mb-6 border-t border-gray-175"><section class="mx-auto my-4 w-full" data-testid="article-purchase-link-component"><section class="mx-auto flex w-full flex-wrap items-center justify-between gap-4 lg:gap-0 lg:px-3" data-testid="article-purchase-link-version-2-component"><p class="mb-0 font-public-sans text-xs tracking-normal">Share with us your feedback on 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