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epjyd6m1"><p class="css-4anu6l e1jsehar1"><span class="css-1baulvz last-byline">By Gillian Tindall</span></p><div class="css-1gqes1i epjyd6m0"></div></div></div><ul class="css-1cgskve epjyd6m4"><li class="css-ccw2r3 epjyd6m3"><time class="css-1uc6ajg e16638kd0" dateTime="1991-06-02T01:00:00-04:00">June 2, 1991</time></li></ul></div></div></header><section name="articleBody" class="meteredContent css-1r7ky0e"><div class="css-j3uhc5"><div class="css-1ve50l5"><div class="css-1si6tjw"><div class="css-p5jc4e"><figure class="" aria-label="media" role="group"><div data-testid="imageContainer-children-Image"><img alt="The Countryside of Balzac and Sand" class="css-rq4mmj" src="https://s1.nyt.com/timesmachine/pages/1/1991/06/02/801491_360W.png?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcSet="" decoding="async" width="1" height="1"/></div><figcaption data-testid="photoviewer-children-ImageCaption" class="css-ktho12 e3rygrp0"><span class="css-14fe1uy e1z0qqy90"><span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">Credit...</span><span><span aria-hidden="false">The New York Times Archives</span></span></span></figcaption></figure></div><div class="css-l01qyp"><div class="css-2jki3x">See the article in its original context from <br/>June 2, 1991, <span>Section 5,</span> Page 15<span class="css-hzz0y8"></span><a class="css-4ejn01" href="https://store.nytimes.com/collections/new-york-times-page-reprints?utm_source=nytimes&utm_medium=article-page&utm_campaign=reprints">Buy Reprints</a></div><div class="css-1nq039c"><a class="css-1382yzd" href="https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1991/06/02/801491.html" type="button" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">View on timesmachine</a></div><div class="css-1gus26i">TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers.</div></div></div><div class="css-1tmubey"><div class="css-bxutwf">About the Archive</div><div class="css-2kizte">This is a digitized version of an article from The Times鈥檚 print archive, before the start of online publication in 1996. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them.</div><div class="css-2kizte">Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems; we are continuing to work to improve these archived versions.</div></div></div></div><div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn" data-testid="companionColumn-0"><div class="css-53u6y8"><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">"INFINITE love . . . I found expressed by this long ribbon of water streaming in the sun between two green banks, by these lines of poplars guarding this vale of love with their quivering tracery, by the oak woods rising up between the vines on hillsides bordered by the winding river, and by these horizons full of contrasts . . . Without the Touraine, perhaps I could no longer live . . . ."</p><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">This passage, which goes on to evoke an idyllic village with turning water mills and hedges of honeysuckle, is from "Le Lys Dans la Vallee" by Balzac. It comes as a surprise to readers who know Balzac better as the cynical 19th-century chronicler of "The Human Comedy," but here he is in lyrical mood: the countryside is transfigured by a passionate attachment. In the book, the young hero falls in love with Madame de Mortsauf, a beautiful married woman old enough to be his mother who, in the end, is destroyed by her own love for him. In life, the young Balzac fell in love with Madame de Bernay, a similar mother figure, who lived near Paris. But he himself came from the center of France and that region appears under one aspect or another in many of his books. Most frequent as settings are the Loire towns of Tours and Saumur; "Le Lys Dans la Vallee," however, takes place a little farther south, in the true heart of France which lies between the vineyards of the Loire basin and the foothills of the Massif Central.</p><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">Even today this area is little known to foreigners and indeed to many of the French themselves. Yet, as they roar down the autoroutes, bound for the mountains or the Mediterranean, they are passing not only through Balzac country but through the native places of George Sand and Alain-Fournier as well.</p><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">Leave the main roads, follow the Loire's tributary, the Indre, and you will find a rolling landscape of small fields, hedgerows, cows, lakes, woods of oak and Spanish chestnut, and towns and villages that seem to belong to a world that elsewhere we have lost. The quiet side roads are paved today and the mill wheels no longer turn above the streams; tractors have replaced the plow teams, and the poster in a village street advertises a dance with a rock group. But the cluster of men enjoying an evening drink by the medieval church would be entirely recognizable to Balzac; chickens still wander freely by the sides of the lanes and in farmyards where mixed farming is carried on in the time-honored way; and the eggs, fowl, local vegetables and fresh-baked bread you will be served in the most ordinary little restaurants taste deeply of themselves and of quintessential France.</p></div><aside class="css-ew4tgv" aria-label="companion column"></aside></div><div data-testid="Dropzone-1"></div><div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn" data-testid="companionColumn-1"><div class="css-53u6y8"><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">Balzac's village on the bank of the Indre, Pont-de-Ruan, is still there, without the honeysuckle hedges but with pots of geraniums and with a cafe that bears his name. Like his hero, Felix, Balzac used to walk the 14 miles from Tours to take refuge in a nearby chateau -- in the book an imaginary Palladian one, in life Sache, an old stone country house with high chimneys and pointed dormers, which is still there and open for tours. Sache belonged to Jean de Margonne, himself a faintly romantic figure since he was the lover of Balzac's mother and the father of her youngest child. (Balzac pere, an eccentric and opinionated personage many years older than his wife, turned a blind eye).</p><p class="css-at9mc1 evys1bk0">The Margonnes preferred Honore de Balzac to the boy who was actually related to them, and the writer spent long periods holed up in their country estate away from the turbulent life he made for himself in Paris. As the guide at Sache explained, "travel was difficult and expensive in those days -- it was hardly worth most creditors' while pursuing Balzac to his retreat." Balzac's chronic folly with money was also the reason that, even when he was a celebrated writer, he still sometimes found himself making the last stages of his journey to Sache on foot.</p><div class="css-1336jj"><div class="css-121kum4"><div class="css-171quhb"></div><div class="css-asuuk5"><noscript><div class="css-7axq9l" data-testid="optimistic-truncator-noscript"><svg width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" aria-hidden="true" class="css-1b5b8u1"><path fill="currentColor" fill-rule="evenodd" d="M2.5 12a9.5 9.5 0 1 1 19 0 9.5 9.5 0 0 1-19 0Zm8.5 1.75v-7.5h2v7.5h-2Zm0 2v2h2v-2h-2Z" clip-rule="evenodd"></path></svg><div data-testid="optimistic-truncator-noscript-message" class="css-6yo1no"><p class="css-3kpklk">We are having trouble retrieving the article content.</p><p class="css-3kpklk">Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.</p></div></div></noscript><div class="css-1dv1kvn" id="optimistic-truncator-a11y" tabindex="-1"><hr/><p>Thank you for your patience while we verify access. 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\"INFINITE love . . . I found expressed by this long ribbon of water streaming in the sun between two green banks, by these lines of poplars guarding this vale of love with their quivering tracery, by the oak woods rising up between the vines on hillsides bordered by the winding river, and by these horizons full of contrasts . . . Without the Touraine, perhaps I could no longer live . . . .\" This passage, which goes on to evoke an idyllic village with turning water mills and hedges of honeysuckle, is from \"Le Lys Dans la Vallee\" by Balzac. It comes as a surprise to readers who know Balzac better as the cynical 19th-century chronicler of \"The Human Comedy,\" but here he is in lyrical mood: the countryside is transfigured by a passionate attachment. In the book, the young hero falls in love with Madame de Mortsauf, a beautiful married woman old enough to be his mother who, in the end, is destroyed by her own love for him. In life, the young Balzac fell in love with Madame de Bernay, a similar mother figure, who lived near Paris. But he himself came from the center of France and that region appears under one aspect or another in many of his books. Most frequent as settings are the Loire towns of Tours and Saumur; \"Le Lys Dans la Vallee,\" however, takes place a little farther south, in the true heart of France which lies between the vineyards of the Loire basin and the foothills of the Massif Central.","thumbnails":[{"__typename":"ArticleArchivePropertiesThumbnail","height":246,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fs1.nyt.com\u002Ftimesmachine\u002Fpages\u002F1\u002F1991\u002F06\u002F02\u002F801491_180W.png","width":180},{"__typename":"ArticleArchivePropertiesThumbnail","height":493,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fs1.nyt.com\u002Ftimesmachine\u002Fpages\u002F1\u002F1991\u002F06\u002F02\u002F801491_360W.png","width":360}],"timesMachineUrl":"http:\u002F\u002Ftimesmachine.nytimes.com\u002Ftimesmachine\u002F1991\u002F06\u002F02\u002F801491.html"},"associatedAssets":[],"associatedNewsletter":null,"bylines":[{"__typename":"Byline","creatorSnapshots":[],"creators":[],"renderedRepresentation":"By Gillian Tindall"}],"collections":[],"column":null,"commentProperties":{"__typename":"CreativeWorkCommentProperties","approvedCommentsCount":null,"prompt":"","status":"NO_COMMENTS"},"compatibility":{"__typename":"CompatibilityFeatures","hasInlineEmbeddedInteractives":false,"hasOakConversionError":false,"hasVideo":false,"isArtReview":false,"isBookReview":false,"isDiningReview":false,"isMovieReview":false,"isOak":false,"isTheaterReview":false},"curatedAssetComments":null,"desk":"Travel Desk","dfpTaxonomyException":null,"displayProperties":{"__typename":"CreativeWorkDisplayProperties","fullBleedDisplayStyle":"","serveAsNyt4":false},"episodeProperties":null,"eventId":"pubp:\u002F\u002Fevent\u002F3511b3956d8e4a09987b3b663d2b6cc6","featuredAudio":null,"firstPublished":"1991-06-02T05:00:00.000Z","headline":{"__typename":"CreativeWorkHeadline","default":"The Countryside of Balzac and Sand","seo":""},"id":"QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzJhZDkzYzQ1LWQxNmYtNWE1Ni1hOTdiLTFhZDBlMzE0NGFiZA==","kicker":"","language":null,"lastMajorModification":"1991-06-02T05:00:00.000Z","lastModified":"2019-02-16T03:19:09.460Z","legacy":{"__typename":"ArticleLegacyData","htmlExtendedAuthorOrArticleInformation":"","htmlInfoBox":"","reviewInformation":""},"newsStatus":"DEFAULT","originalDesk":"","printInformation":{"__typename":"PrintInformation","edition":"Late Edition - Final","headline":"The Countryside of Balzac and Sand","page":"015","publicationDate":"1991-06-02T05:00:00.000Z","section":"5"},"promotionalImage":null,"promotionalMedia":null,"requestToCommentEnabled":false,"reviewItems":[],"reviewSummary":"","section":{"__typename":"Section","displayName":"Travel","id":"U2VjdGlvbjpueXQ6Ly9zZWN0aW9uL2IyZmI3YzA4LTRmOGUtNWNmZi04ZTE0LWFmZjhhNDlhOTkzNA==","name":"travel","uri":"nyt:\u002F\u002Fsection\u002Fb2fb7c08-4f8e-5cff-8e14-aff8a49a9934","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002Fsection\u002Ftravel"},"slug":"the-countryside-of-balzac-and-sand","source":{"__typename":"Organization","displayName":"New York Times","id":"T3JnYW5pemF0aW9uOm55dDovL29yZ2FuaXphdGlvbi9jMjc5MTM4OC02YjE2LTVmZmQtYTExOS05NmVhY2IxOTg5YzE="},"sourceId":"1991060200000801491","sourcePublisher":"archive-repub","sprinkled":{"__typename":"SprinkledContent","configs":[{"__typename":"SprinkledConfig","name":"mobile","stride":4,"threshold":3},{"__typename":"SprinkledConfig","name":"desktop","stride":7,"threshold":3},{"__typename":"SprinkledConfig","name":"mobileHoldout","stride":4,"threshold":2},{"__typename":"SprinkledConfig","name":"desktopHoldout","stride":5,"threshold":3},{"__typename":"SprinkledConfig","name":"hybrid","stride":4,"threshold":3}]},"sprinkledBody":{"__typename":"DocumentBlock","content":[{"__typename":"HeaderLegacyBlock","byline":{"__typename":"BylineBlock","bylines":[{"__typename":"Byline","creators":[],"prefix":"By","renderedRepresentation":"By Gillian Tindall"}],"hideHeadshots":false,"role":[],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},"headline":{"__typename":"Heading1Block","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"The Countryside of Balzac and Sand"}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},"label":null,"ledeMedia":null,"subhead":null,"timestampBlock":{"__typename":"TimestampBlock","align":"DEFAULT","showUpdatedTimestamp":null,"timestamp":"1991-06-02T05:00:00.000Z"}},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"\"INFINITE love . . . I found expressed by this long ribbon of water streaming in the sun between two green banks, by these lines of poplars guarding this vale of love with their quivering tracery, by the oak woods rising up between the vines on hillsides bordered by the winding river, and by these horizons full of contrasts . . . Without the Touraine, perhaps I could no longer live . . . .\""}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":0},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"This passage, which goes on to evoke an idyllic village with turning water mills and hedges of honeysuckle, is from \"Le Lys Dans la Vallee\" by Balzac. It comes as a surprise to readers who know Balzac better as the cynical 19th-century chronicler of \"The Human Comedy,\" but here he is in lyrical mood: the countryside is transfigured by a passionate attachment. In the book, the young hero falls in love with Madame de Mortsauf, a beautiful married woman old enough to be his mother who, in the end, is destroyed by her own love for him. In life, the young Balzac fell in love with Madame de Bernay, a similar mother figure, who lived near Paris. But he himself came from the center of France and that region appears under one aspect or another in many of his books. Most frequent as settings are the Loire towns of Tours and Saumur; \"Le Lys Dans la Vallee,\" however, takes place a little farther south, in the true heart of France which lies between the vineyards of the Loire basin and the foothills of the Massif Central."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":1},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Even today this area is little known to foreigners and indeed to many of the French themselves. Yet, as they roar down the autoroutes, bound for the mountains or the Mediterranean, they are passing not only through Balzac country but through the native places of George Sand and Alain-Fournier as well."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":2},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Leave the main roads, follow the Loire's tributary, the Indre, and you will find a rolling landscape of small fields, hedgerows, cows, lakes, woods of oak and Spanish chestnut, and towns and villages that seem to belong to a world that elsewhere we have lost. The quiet side roads are paved today and the mill wheels no longer turn above the streams; tractors have replaced the plow teams, and the poster in a village street advertises a dance with a rock group. But the cluster of men enjoying an evening drink by the medieval church would be entirely recognizable to Balzac; chickens still wander freely by the sides of the lanes and in farmyards where mixed farming is carried on in the time-honored way; and the eggs, fowl, local vegetables and fresh-baked bread you will be served in the most ordinary little restaurants taste deeply of themselves and of quintessential France."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":true,"adsDesktopHoldout":true,"adsHybrid":true,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":3},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Balzac's village on the bank of the Indre, Pont-de-Ruan, is still there, without the honeysuckle hedges but with pots of geraniums and with a cafe that bears his name. Like his hero, Felix, Balzac used to walk the 14 miles from Tours to take refuge in a nearby chateau -- in the book an imaginary Palladian one, in life Sache, an old stone country house with high chimneys and pointed dormers, which is still there and open for tours. Sache belonged to Jean de Margonne, himself a faintly romantic figure since he was the lover of Balzac's mother and the father of her youngest child. (Balzac pere, an eccentric and opinionated personage many years older than his wife, turned a blind eye)."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":4},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"The Margonnes preferred Honore de Balzac to the boy who was actually related to them, and the writer spent long periods holed up in their country estate away from the turbulent life he made for himself in Paris. As the guide at Sache explained, \"travel was difficult and expensive in those days -- it was hardly worth most creditors' while pursuing Balzac to his retreat.\" Balzac's chronic folly with money was also the reason that, even when he was a celebrated writer, he still sometimes found himself making the last stages of his journey to Sache on foot."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":5},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Visitors will be shown the small upper room, with its Spartan bed, work-table and coffee grinder (Balzac at work was a coffee addict) and its view over the gardens and woods; here, so many of his tormented characters -- misers, implacable old maids, traders, priests, bankrupts, ambitious Parisians -- first saw light."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":6},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Another writer who was Balzac's contemporary and friend had her own country house some 60 miles to the southeast: George Sand, the first French woman to be a novelist of major reputation. The image that has come down to us in popular literary history is of a slightly grotesque feminist, famous for forays into bohemian Paris circles (complete with trousers and a cigar) and for numerous lovers, among them the romantic writer Alfred de Musset and Chopin."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":true,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":7},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"However, Sand, born Aurore Dupin to a family of country aristocracy living in the upper reaches of the Indre, had other and more endearing qualities than those of a social pioneer. She, too, loved her native countryside, and was to chronicle the life of its peasants, their dialect and the hamlets in which they lived, in a series of stories that have proved of more enduring value and interest than her novels."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":true,"adsDesktopHoldout":true,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":8},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Her manor at Nohant, another of those pleasant turreted houses that the French dignify with the name of castle, was visited several times by Balzac and can be visited today, if more briefly, by the public. Turn aside at the sign from the main Chateauroux-La Chatre Road, and you will find it is in the center of a tiny village with a country-style tile-roofed church and little else but a hotel-restaurant called La Petite Fadette, after one of Sand's best-known rustic characters."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":9},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"The elms that used to surround the church were chopped down a few years ago because of disease, and in their place some young limes have been planted, for Nohant is mindful of its responsibilities toward its famous citizen. Inside the house is the dining table laid as if for a long-ago cosmopolitan dinner party, George Sand's room with her original bed curtains, and the puppet theater where she and her guests used to enact versions of her books. The pleasant kitchen is on view, too, with its garden outlook and its brass pans. In a corner of the grounds Sand lies in a tiny cemetery with others of her family around her."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":10},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"\"LA PETITE FADETTE,\" and its companion piece \"Francois le Champi,\" were written in the 1840's, just as the railway was arriving at Chateauroux and modifying the entrenched wolf-and-ghost-haunted life of rural France forever. George Sand was chronicling an age-old peasant culture when it was on the brink of change. But in her early years the area she herself christened the Black Valley, because of the density of the forests as seen from the hills, was still without proper roads."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":true,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":11},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"There were pits and marshes into which whole carriages could disappear -- one marsh, la Mare au Diable, she immortalized in a book of that name. The marsh has more or less dried up today, but you can still find it marked in Chanteloube Wood on the most detailed maps of the area. Also marked is the Angibault mill from which another novel, \"Le Meunier d'Angibault,\" takes its name. The mill -- which cannot be visited for the moment, but which the local authority has recently bought and plans to restore -- lies on the stream called the Vauvres. It is in a remote site due south of the pretty village whose church was already, for Sand, \"the big old bell tower of Montipouret.\" About a mile farther on lies the picturebook medieval fortress of Sarzay, which in Sand's books is called Blanchemont."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":12},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Here, the lost world seems very much alive. By contrast, Gargilesse, about 25 miles southwest on the bigger river Creuse, where Sand had a summer cottage, is today a little self-conscious: an \"artistic festival\" crowds its one street with tourists in the vacation season. The Creuse itself, however, is dramatically lovely with its ruined castle perched on a cliff; Sand used this site as a setting and it later attracted the attention of Monet, who made a series of paintings here."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":true,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":13},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"In many places immortalized by writers, you are apt to encounter local guides who are devoted to their subject and do their work for love rather than money; this is certainly true in Alain-Fournier's childhood home near the geometric center of France."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":14},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Of a later generation than Balzac or Sand, Alain-Fournier's one magnificent novel, \"Le Grand Meaulnes,\" about irrecoverable youth, evokes rural France near the end of the 19th century, when rustic smocks co-existed with bowler hats, and general literacy was driving out the elves. Alain-Fournier, born Henri Fournier, was the son of teachers, and grew up in the school at Epineuil-le-Fleuriel, about 25 miles east of La Chatre. The village is described in his book in minute, nostalgic detail; but elsewhere the action enters the world of folklore and adventures tinged with magic, including a nighttime fete at a country house that even the most literal-minded Alain-Fournier fans have not managed to relate to any one real place."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":true,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":true,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":15},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"In any case, the forests and moors in which this secret domain is set owe less to the farmlands around Epineuil than to the Sologne, the huntsman's area a little to the north, where the writer's grandparents lived. The fact is, Alain-Fournier created what he himself referred as his \"marvelous country of the heart\" by merging two separate districts. Today, there is a certain rivalry between them. Go to La Chapelle-d'Angillon, a small and unremarkable town in the Sologne about 20 miles north of Bourges, and you will find that the urban-style town hall-cum-school bears a plaque claiming that here the author \"situated the house of his hero Le Grand Meaulnes\" -- a statement that clouds fact to the point of falsehood."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":16},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"The rural school at Epineuil, with its courtyard and traditional tiled shelter for wet lunch hours, is unmistakably the one described in the book, the \"long red house with five sets of French windows . . . which stood at the end of the village\" with a view on both sides. Until recently, it was still the school. I can even vouch for the views from the desks of the one large classroom, and the experience of sitting there on a hot afternoon."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":17},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"When I went there recently the teacher, M. Lullier (who has now just retired) sat me and a few other visitors down to a fascinating if lengthy lesson on Alain-Fournier, before conducting us to the unchanged quarters where the family used to live and finally to the attic bedroom where the genesis of the novel began. This experience of entering another time and way of life will still be on offer when the whole building becomes a museum; it is in itself worthy of Alain-Fournier's magic world, and a testament to his enduring hold on the imaginations of those attached to secret France. HOTELS, DINING AND LITERARY LIGHTS Balzac"}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":true,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":18},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Chateau de Sache; telephone 47.26.86.50. Admission is $3.45 (prices at 5.5 francs to the dollar). Open every day from March 1 through October, from 9 A.M. to noon and 2 to 6 P.M. In July and August the chateau stays open at lunchtime and until 6:30 P.M."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":true,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":19},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"About 16 miles to the west in Chinon is the restaurant Au Plaisir Gourmand, 2 Rue Parmentier; 47.93.20.48. The restaurant features the cuisine of Jean-Claude Rigollet, who was awarded a Michelin star soon after opening the homey restaurant eight years ago in a 17th-century stone house. Fixed-price meals are $30 and $40, and an a la carte meal is about $45 without wine. Specialities are mainly local fish: brochet (pike) au beurre blanc, sandre au Chinon (a perchlike river fish with Chinon wine), but also beef tail in Chinon wine) and a dessert called pruneaux en chemise, made of prunes wrapped in almond paste, dipped in batter and lighly deep-fried. Closed February, Sunday dinner and Monday. Reserve two days ahead."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":20},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Another well-regarded restaurant in Chinon is the Hostellerie Gargantua, 73 Rue Haute St.-Maurice; 47.93.04.71. It is in a 15th-century building with a prominent turret, and the staff dresses in medieval costumes every Friday and Saturday night. Fixed-price meals are $27 and $32. Among the specialities are the omelette Gargamelle, with mushrooms, cheese and herbs, and nut and honey cake. Closed from Nov. 15 to March 15. There are rooms at Gargantua too; a double room is $82 to $100. George Sand"}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":21},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Visitors must join a guided tour to see the Maison de George Sand, Nohant; 54.31.06.04. From April through September, tours run daily between 9:30 and 11:30 A.M. and 1:30 and 6 P.M. From Oct. 15 to April 1, visits are at 10 and 11:15 A.M. and 2 and 3:30 PM. Admission is $4.35."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":true,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":22},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"Admission is $2.70 to the Chateau de Sarzay; 54.31.32.25. Guided tours of the chateau, between Nohant and Neuvy-St.-Sepulcre, are available April to October. The interior remains much as it was in the Middle Ages."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":true,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":23},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"The Moulin d'Angibault, near the village of Montipouret just north of Nohant, is empty and open to visitors. The mill wheel has been restored and dips again into the Vauvre."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":24},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"In Nohant a building that used to belong to Sand is now a one-star hotel with a restaurant, La Petite Fadette; 54.31.01.48. A double room is $51; breakfast is $5.80. The kitchen's specialty is poulet en barbouille, chicken cooked in its blood."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":25},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"South of Nohant a few miles from St.-Chartier on the road to Verneuil is the Chateau Vallee Bleue, 54.31.01.91, a small castle built in 1858 in a large park, now a 14-room hotel. A double room is $64 to $82; breakfast $7.50. Fixed-price meals are $20 to $50, and an a la carte meal, about $45. A specialty is filet of carp from the Brenne region served with soy butter and shiitake mushrooms. Closed in February. Alain-Fournier"}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":true,"bad":false,"index":26},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"In Epineuil-le-Fleuriel, the writer's bedroom in the attic of the school where his parents taught is a museum; call 48.63.02.23 to arrange a visit. The building housed an active elementary school until recently, but the school was transferred to a nearby building. At some time in the future the whole old school will be a museum, displayed as it was at the time of the writer's youth."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":true,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":27},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"In Epineuil, a simple bar-restaurant, La Veuve Delouche, 48.63.04.29, offers a four-course meal for $9 including a quarter-liter of wine. Closed Mondays after 2 P.M. About 11 miles to the south, on the road to Montlucon, is the restaurant of the Hostellerie du Lion d'Or. It serves good solid food -- such as quenelles of pike au gratin, Veal chops in cream sauce with morel mushrooms -- in fixed-price meals at $13.50 to $42 without wine. An a la carte meal is about $45."}],"textAlign":"DEFAULT"},{"__typename":"Dropzone","adsDesktop":false,"adsDesktopHoldout":false,"adsHybrid":false,"adsMobile":false,"adsMobileHoldout":false,"bad":false,"index":28},{"__typename":"ParagraphBlock","content":[{"__typename":"TextInline","formats":[],"text":"For a hotel, many drive 12 miles east from Epineuil to the village of St.-Bonnet-Troncais and Le Troncais; 70.06.11.95. The 12-room hotel is on a small lake in a magnificent oak forest. Double rooms are $39 to $53; breakfast is $4.50. Closed December, January and February. 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