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class="share-btn"><i class="icon-forward"></i></div></div></div></div><figure class="article-span-photo"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-01-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-01-wgpb-master1050.jpg" width="1050" height="700" alt="在台湾东北部宜兰县的兰阳溪沿岸捕捞玻璃鳗的人。"><figcaption><span>在台湾东北部宜兰县的兰阳溪沿岸捕捞玻璃鳗的人。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure><div class="row"><div class="article-left"><section class="article-body"><div class="article-partial"><div class="article-body-item col-lg-5"><div class="article-paragraph">天黑后，捕捞者戴着强光头灯涉水而下，一遍又一遍地在汹涌的海浪中撒网。</div><div class="article-paragraph">整个晚上，他们都在抖落渔网里的淤泥，挑出其中的宝贝：蠕动的透明鳗苗，一条还不如一根粉丝粗。它们的价值相当或接近于同等重量的黄金。渔民将其放入水罐，有些人还用绳子将罐子挂在脖子上。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“有时是金子，有时是泥巴，”十年来一直在冬季捕捞鳗苗——也就是玻璃鳗——的戴嘉昇说。玻璃鳗每年都随洋流而来，吸引了几代人前往台湾沿岸，戴嘉昇这样的渔户就是其中之一。</div><div class="article-paragraph">但这种吸引力正在衰减。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-04-qvtw/00taiwan-eels-04-qvtw-master1050.jpg" alt="台湾桃园市一家包装厂鱼池中的成年鳗鱼。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-04-qvtw/00taiwan-eels-04-qvtw-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>台湾桃园市一家包装厂鱼池中的成年鳗鱼。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-11-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-11-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt="陈志川说他在这个玻璃鳗捕捞季赚到了8000美元。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-11-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-11-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>陈志川说他在这个玻璃鳗捕捞季赚到了8000美元。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph">“我们以前觉得这一行能赚钱，但现在越来越多的人不那么确定了，”戴嘉昇说。</div><div class="article-paragraph">全球范围内的鳗鱼数量都在锐减。环保人士称，买卖量最大的鳗鱼品种正面临威胁<span>。国立台湾大学<a rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" href="https://webpageprodvm.ntu.edu.tw/fishing_en/cl.aspx?n=101478">渔业科学研究所</a>教授韩玉山表示，和其他地方一样，由于过度捕捞</span>，土地开发导致其水边栖息地丧失，加之近来的气候变化，台湾鳗鱼的数量已经在下降。</div><div class="article-paragraph">上世纪八九十年代，由于日本对鳗鱼的热衷，台湾鳗鱼产业得到蓬勃发展。曾有几年，台湾光是对日本的出口总额就达到6亿美元。但那样的日子一去不复返了。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-03-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-03-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt="兰阳溪畔的早餐。“我们来这里不只是为了鳗鱼，也是为了和朋友们共度时光，”身穿红色外套、戴着头巾的乌文瓦颜（中）说。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-03-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-03-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>兰阳溪畔的早餐。“我们来这里不只是为了鳗鱼，也是为了和朋友们共度时光，”身穿红色外套、戴着头巾的乌文瓦颜（中）说。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/14/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-lfqh/00taiwan-eels-lfqh-master1050.jpg" alt="台湾西部云林县的玻璃鳗捕捞网。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/14/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-lfqh/00taiwan-eels-lfqh-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>台湾西部云林县的玻璃鳗捕捞网。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><span>2022年，台湾总共仅出口了价值5800万美元的鳗鱼。中国早就超越了台湾，成为日本进口鳗鱼的主要来源，而其<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2022/09/26/world/asia/china-fishing-south-america.html">庞大的深海船队</a>被批评危害全球渔业资源。</span></div><div class="article-paragraph">韩玉山表示，虽然全球变暖对鳗鱼的影响还未得到仔细研究，但台湾渔民认为，温度变化会影响潮汐，从而影响他们的渔获。</div></div></div><div class="big_ad" id="medium-rectangle-ad-0" data-target="{"pos":"mid1","adv":""}"><small>广告</small></div><div class="article-partial"><div class="article-body-item col-lg-5"><div class="article-paragraph">“海水越暖，鱼就会越往深处游，”导致捕捉难度更大，68岁的台湾区鳗虾输出业同业公会会长郭琼英说。</div><div class="article-paragraph">戴嘉昇这样的渔民会在宜兰县兰阳溪沿岸将鳗鱼卖给批发商，后者“收购鳗鱼”的牌子非常显眼。批发商的收购价高达每克——大约六条——40美元，而黄金价格在每克63美元左右。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><span>这些鳗鱼从这里被送往水产养殖场培育至成年。（为保护不断减少的鱼群，台湾禁止在冬捕期间出口玻璃鳗，但<a rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" href="https://focustaiwan.tw/society/202211180010">走私量依然庞大</a>，流入了规模达数十亿美元的全球黑市。）</span></div><div class="article-paragraph">成年鳗鱼在被空运至日本等国家之前，还要来到台湾的最后一站，在包装厂里被放入装有沉重冰块的水袋。郭琼英在台湾北部的桃园市就拥有一家这样的工厂。</div><div class="article-paragraph">在这个由男性主导的行业中，她是罕有的女性。在一个冬天的夜晚，她穿着套鞋在工厂里大步流星，和客户打电话，偶尔把手伸进池中抓住游动的鳗鱼，将其分类放入管道。</div><div class="article-paragraph">郭琼英是21岁入行的，当时进了一家经营鳗鱼等产品的日本进出口公司工作。她第一次见到鳗鱼，是在作为翻译参观一家包装厂的时候。看到工人们赤手就能抓住鳗鱼并准确判断其重量，她感到十分惊奇。</div><div class="article-paragraph">郭琼英在那家公司任职17年，因日本泡沫经济崩溃失业。1992年，她自行创业，拿出全部积蓄购置工厂设备，还抵押了两套房产。她说，有很多年自己都是在车里过夜的。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-02-qvtw/00taiwan-eels-02-qvtw-master1050.jpg" alt="郭琼英位于桃园市的鳗鱼包装厂里的工人。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-02-qvtw/00taiwan-eels-02-qvtw-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>郭琼英位于桃园市的鳗鱼包装厂里的工人。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/13/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-ftjz/00taiwan-eels-ftjz-master1050.jpg" alt="正在做饭的郭琼英。“我们的鳗鱼是最好的，”她说。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/13/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-ftjz/00taiwan-eels-ftjz-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>正在做饭的郭琼英。“我们的鳗鱼是最好的，”她说。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph">最终，这样的勤俭换来了富贵的生活。郭琼英如今的座驾是一辆敞篷车，台湾媒体报道她的生平（还称她为“鳗鱼女王”）。她曾做客一档日本电视节目，为评委们烹饪她的产品样品。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“台湾鳗鱼赢得了比赛，”她笑着回忆道。“我们的鳗鱼就是最好的。”</div></div></div><div class="big_ad" id="medium-rectangle-ad-1" data-target="{"pos":"mid2","adv":""}"><small>广告</small></div><div class="article-partial"><div class="article-body-item col-lg-5"><div class="article-paragraph">在经常受到污染的河口捕捞鳗鱼就没那么光鲜亮丽了。渔民们一站就是几个小时，将篮状的渔网一次次浸入水中，或用海滩上的金属船锚将自己拴住，然后游出更远的地方。</div><div class="article-paragraph">陈志川是一名兼职技术员，他说有次自己差点在水中捞鳗时丧命。“我没力气拉住绳子了。我放了手，让自己在海上漂着，”他在兰阳溪边休息时回忆道。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“现在我年纪大了，经验也更多了，”陈志川说，他穿了一身绿色的橡胶连体服和一双黄色靴子。“我不会再把自己逼到那种程度。”说完他又扑入海浪之中。</div><div class="article-paragraph">陈志川说他在这个捕捞季赚到了8000美元，尽管不如往年，但还是比较满意。</div><div class="article-paragraph">疫情期间，因为餐馆关门，全球航运陷入混乱，鳗鱼价格也出现暴跌。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-06-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-06-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt="兰阳溪边的帐篷里，穿装备准备下水的渔民。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-06-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-06-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>兰阳溪边的帐篷里，穿装备准备下水的渔民。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-13-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-13-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt=" 检查捕捞收获。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-13-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-13-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>检查捕捞收获。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph">61岁的张世明年轻时曾在台湾西海岸的彰化市附近捕捞鳗鱼。上世纪90年代初，当地建起了一座巨型石油化工厂。大量烟囱排放出烟雾和蒸汽，附近的草地都被白灰覆盖。他说，捕捞的收获再也不复当初了。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“过去这些年，我们看到了如此多的破坏，”张世明说。“今年的鳗鱼已经很少了。”至少，他听到的情况是这样；大约20年前，张世明就转行做了劳动强度没那么大的蛤蜊养殖。</div></div></div><div class="big_ad" id="medium-rectangle-ad-2" data-target="{"pos":"mid3","adv":""}"><small>广告</small></div><div class="article-partial"><div class="article-body-item col-lg-5"><div class="article-paragraph">他的大儿子就在那座化工厂工作。“只是为了混口饭，”张世明说。</div><div class="article-paragraph">43岁的蒋凯德是一名兼职建筑工，多年来一直在打零工，直到有位朋友成功劝说他尝试以捞鳗为生。他从老家搬到了兰阳溪边的一个村庄。他只能在周末与来访的四岁儿子和父母团聚。</div><div class="article-paragraph">事实证明，要精通这份活计很难，夜间捕捞鳗苗的收获也不好说，从10条到100条都有可能。在最近一次出海中，他的收获还不到20条。</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-22-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-22-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt="宜兰县兰阳溪正在进行疏浚工程。发展已经破坏了鳗鱼在台湾和世界各地的栖息地。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-22-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-22-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>宜兰县兰阳溪正在进行疏浚工程。发展已经破坏了鳗鱼在台湾和世界各地的栖息地。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/14/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-mqfc/00taiwan-eels-mqfc-master1050.jpg" alt="在水上劳作的宜兰县渔民。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/14/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-mqfc/00taiwan-eels-mqfc-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>在水上劳作的宜兰县渔民。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="article-paragraph">“很难赚到钱，”蒋凯德说，他筋疲力尽地倒在地上。“全家人都指望我。”他说自己快要放弃这一行了。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“我想这么下去早晚无以为继，”他说。</div><div class="article-paragraph">不远处，几位退休老人正围着一个小土坑烤着鸡翅，十分享受。他们是阿美族人，那是台湾的一个原住民族群。</div></div></div><div class="big_ad" id="medium-rectangle-ad-3" data-target="{"pos":"mid4","adv":""}"><small>广告</small></div><div class="article-partial"><div class="article-body-item col-lg-5"><div class="article-paragraph">捕捞鳗鱼不是阿美族传统，但这一行友人在宜兰县过冬已有十年了。他们在装有木门的帐篷里扎营，捕捞结束后，他们会喝着啤酒，畅聊到深夜。</div><div class="article-paragraph">“我们来这里不只是为了鳗鱼，也是为了和朋友们共度时光，”58岁的乌文瓦颜（音）说，她找来一块脏兮兮的浮具当凳子坐。“这是一年中最快乐的时间之一了。”</div><div class="article-paragraph">“气候的变化我们控制不了，”她还说。“所能做的只有祈求风调雨顺和丰收了。”</div><div class="article-paragraph"><figure class="article-inline-photo large"><div class="img-box"><img src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-09-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-09-wgpb-master1050.jpg" alt="兰阳溪上的捕捞作业。" data-src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/01/23/multimedia/00taiwan-eels-09-wgpb/00taiwan-eels-09-wgpb-master1050.jpg"></div><figcaption><span>兰阳溪上的捕捞作业。</span> <cite></cite></figcaption></figure></div></div><div class="article-body-aside col-lg-3"></div></div></section><footer class="author-info"><p>摄影：Lam Yik Fei</p><p>Amy Chang Chien在台湾为《纽约时报》报道中国大陆和台湾新闻。欢迎在Twitter上关注她： <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/amy_changchien">@amy_changchien</a>。</p><div data-poster="" class=""><p>Tiffany May自亚洲为《纽约时报》报道新闻，她于2017年加入时报。欢迎在Twitter上关注她：<a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/nytmay">@nytmay</a>。</p><p>翻译：纽约时报中文网</p><p><a rel="nofollow" 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